Taste by Laura Rowe - Blad

TASTE THE

INFOGR A PH I C L A UR A

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O F F T H E FA R M

LAMB: SHEEPISH Whether minced, gently seasoned

of a sheep under 12 months old, and

(and much of the Middle East,

with cinnamon and layered with

China, Australia and New Zealand are

actually) like theirs minced and

aubergine and a rich béchamel in a

the biggest producers in the world,

spiced in a kofta kebab.

Greek moussaká or roasted, sliced

closely followed by India and the UK.

and blushing, and swimming in

It’s loved in Europe in various guises.

to cope with spice (that’s why I’ll

mint sauce for a Sunday lunch,

The Italians celebrate Easter with

always opt for a lamb curry on a

lamb is a meat that is as versatile as

abbacchio, a milk-fed lamb barely

Friday night) and pairs well with

it is widely loved. Favoured for its

a month old, its meat tender and

dried fruits (in slow-cooked tagines).

distinctive flavour and sweet fat, lamb

pale, similar to veal. In northern

Lamb gets even better with flavour

is a meat that is as versatile as it is

Spain they roast their suckling

the older it is and benefits from

widely loved. Classified as the meat

lechazo whole; while the Turkish

hanging after slaughter, like its mate

It’s a meat that’s strong enough

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BUTCHER’S CUTS KEY

CHEEK

O F FA L

TONGUE

BREAST

NECK/SCRAG

LOIN

SHOULDER

LEG

RACK

REAR SHANK

FORE SHANK

TA I L

Braise

Devil, breadcrumb, haggis

Poach, breadcrumb, slice, salad

Roll, slow roast, stuffed, breadcrumb, Sainte Ménehould, park railings

Stew, braise, casserole, hotpot, tagine

Whole joint, slow roast, mince

Chops, fast grill, whole saddle, roasted

Whole joint, slow roast, steaks, fast fry, butterfly, barbecue

Whole joint, slow roast, mince

Slow roast, braise

Slow roast, braise

Stew

A SHEEP’S LIFE

SUCKLING LAMB

LAMB

HOGGET

MUTTON

1

12

1 2 –1 8

18+

MONTHS

beef. It also takes on the flavour of its

but it’s mutton that gets really

cheaper-to-produce lamb has now

natural environment. Grass-fed lamb

interesting. After 18 months the meat

taken its place – such as North

is always preferable over grain, but

darkens and strengthens in flavour.

Africa’s rich, spiced merguez sausage,

if you can try salt-marsh lamb from

Yes, it might get tougher, but that

Irish stew, Welsh cawl, Icelandic

the UK that dines on a combination

allows for long and slow cooking.

smoked and boiled hangikjöt

of samphire, sorrel and sea lavender,

Britain’s Prince Charles loves the

(traditionally served with béchamel

or saltbush lamb from Oz, with its

stuff – so much so, in fact, that he’s

at Christmas) and English hotpot

penchant for old man saltbush, do.

been campaigning for a ‘mutton

from Lancashire, which originally

renaissance’ since 2004. Indeed, it’s

was joined by kidneys and

find hogget (when the sheep is

a traditional ingredient for many of

oysters underneath its famous

slaughtered around 12–18 months)

our favourite dishes today – even if

buttery sliced potato topping.

In some countries, you’ll

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S PA G H E T T I

BLUE h me!

FROM THE PLOT

e!

Mas

HUBBARD

ke

m

PUMPKIN: PAT C H T O P I E St

The symbol of a season on the turn,

ea

m

m

e!

B

a

a tool to ward off evil spirits and the fodder of fairytales – pumpkins are s!

Ba

ke

me

! Sh re d m e i nto

o no

dl

e

probably the most famous of all the winter squash but are they the most delicious?

Related to cucumbers, courgettes

C A R N I VA L

and melons – and technically a fruit – these hardy squash come in a spectrum of shapes, sizes

ACORN

and colours, from dusky blues and creamy yellows to egg-yolk orange and moss green. Pumpkins, which are native to America, are

Stuff me!

Sli

ce me!

Ro ast me!

Sl

ic

e m e

! Ro a s t m e ! G rate m e i

c nto

ak

es

!

best known for their part in the Thanksgiving tradition of the same continent (puréed with warming winter spices, as the filling for a sweet pie) or disemboweled and

o ! M a ke sou p

!

carved for Halloween. They can be

risott

eaten. But would you recognize the

Peel me! Roast

me

!M

ake

right squash for the job?

BUTTERNUT

To a s t s e e d s w i t h s a l t o r soy sauce and spice for a tasty snack!

D E L I C ATA

k Roast me! Ma

or simply mashed with butter – even the leaves and seeds can be

p ! M a ke sa lad ! e sou

brewed into beer, grated into cakes,

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PUMPKIN

KABOCHA TURBAN

ly

I’

m

!

ice me! R Stuff me! Sl oast me!

be

ry

m

!

Cu

me

ke ! Ma ke s tew ! M a

c

ur

ild

n a n d f l o u r y ! B e s t f o r d e c o rat i o

on

u

ff

m

Ba e!

e ! M a ke a g ra tin! ke m

CHEESE (CINDERELLA PUMPKIN)

St

Ingredients that taste great with pumpkin:

Pork/bacon

Mushrooms

Nutmeg

Chilli

Sage

Rosemary

Ginger

Blue Cheese

Lime

Chestnuts

Pecans

Cinnamon

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FROM THE PLOT

A S PA R A G U S : BRIT SPEARS The ancient Greeks first cottoned on to just how ace asparagus really is. Fast and easy to cook, and packed with goodies (from vitamins A, C and E, to fibre and folic acid), it’s little surprise that festivals dedicated to the spears are celebrated around the world.

China is the biggest producer (and consumer) of the stuff (some 20x more than the next grower, Peru) but it is perhaps most revered in Europe. Grown in sandy soil from a ‘crown’, it can take three years to produce the first harvest and, once it reaches delicious maturity, needs to be hand cut, so precious are those delicate stalks.

GREEN

An example of that most mystical of taste sensations ‘umami’, the

A favourite of the Brits and

singular flavour of asparagus (green,

widely eaten across the US,

purple, white or wild) is best treated

Australasia and China, these

simply. Eat in season (it usually

thick, tall stems should have

straddles spring and summer) and

tight tips and need only be

fresh (it doesn’t store well after being

prepared by gently bending

picked), ideally with some sort of

PURPLE

tasty fat – whether that be a buttery

The clever Italians

point to remove the tough base.

hollandaise, a clean olive oil dressing

created this variety. These

Steam, boil, blanch or grill;

and sharp, aged hard cheese, or a

spears have less fibre and

barbecue, roast, stir-fry or sauté.

creamy pasta sauce punctuated with

tend to be sweeter. Snap

Whatever you do, keep it quick.

smoky lardons of bacon and topped

and peel raw into pretty

Overcook and you’ll lose the

with a rubble of golden breadcrumbs.

edible ribbons for salads

natural sweetness

to find the natural snapping

W H AT PA I R S WELL WITH A S PA R A G U S ?

Hazelnuts

Cheese

Soy sauce

Anchovies

Eggs

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2

4

S

25CM

HO UR

HOW BIG? Asparagus spears can grow 25cm in 24 hours in the right conditions

WHITE Prized in Germany and across much of central Europe, these stalks are the same as green asparagus but have been deprived of light (either by burying them in soil or using modern black polyhouses).

WILD

They’re the problem child of the

Where the wild asparagus

family – tougher, so will need

grows is a closely guarded

snapping and peeling before

secret amongst greedy

cooking, and bland – and are

foodies. Thin and delicious

prone to getting pickled

eaten raw or blanched

Shallots

Peas

Smoked salmon

Lemon

Broad beans

Oyster sauce 15

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O N T H E TA B L E

BURGERS: THE O R I G I N A L FA S T F O O D

There can be few foods around the world that are so significant that they inspire international franchises, TV shows, science experiments and global economy indexes; but, then again, there are few foods as deeply satisfying as a good burger.

In the last decade the humble burger – essentially, glorified beef and bread – has had something of a renaissance. It’s gone gourmet, dirty (in a good way). No longer is any ol’ bit of cow acceptable: the fat to meat ratio is crucial. The bun needs to be as good as the meat, and then there’s the fillings – what about the cheese, bacon, pickles and salad?

Chefs started getting creative, adding more meat to the stack – pulled pork, chilli con carne, foie gras and even lobster. Sauces made the leap from mustard and ketchup to truffled mayonnaise. Gherkins morphed into Korean kimchi. It all got rather complicated. But what actually makes the perfect burger? Here’s our guide…

THE ANTIPODEAN BURGER: Make like the Australians do and fill your stack with pickled beetroot, sliced pineapple, a fried egg and chilli. Really

BURGERNOMICS: The Big Mac Index has been used since 1986 by The Economist to show global purchasing power

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The perfect bap for a burger needs to be strong enough

B

to hold its generous filling and should be slightly sweet.

UN

Look out for rolls with a hint of sourdough. Toast on the same pan/grill as your patty

LE

Keep it green and crisp. Add the freshest leaves of

E

C TTU

iceberg lettuce, straight from the fridge, at the last minute to ensure no wilting

R

ON ED

P

L ICK

IO

N

Sliced thinly, and quickly pickled in red wine vinegar and caster sugar, red onion hum will make your burger sing You need something sharp to cut through all

E

that delicious meat. Try crinkle-cut pickled gherkins (good for texture and sourness) or a homemade cucumber pickle

TO

T MA

O

Beef, plum or roma, whatever the variety of tomato, they must be ripe and sliced around 5mm at room temperature with a serrated knife Even the top chefs can’t resist the melt of ‘plastic’ sliced

CH

EES

E

cheese but for the same consistency with extra flavour choose a Gouda. Slice thin, larger than the size of your burger and be sure to add to the top of the cooked patty the second it is flipped over. In the time it takes to cook the other side you’ll have the perfect melt Beef. Always. Make it chuck steak (the shoulder of

M

T EA

the cow) and you’ll have the perfect meat to fat ratio (around 20–25% fat). Coarsely hand grind it, or ask your butcher to do it for you. Add just salt and pepper: no egg, breadcrumbs, beer, herbs or spices. Mix to combine but don’t overwork it. Shape into rough 250g patties (that’s a handful or ice-cream scoop) and make a dimple in the middle. Cover and chill for 30 minutes – burgers should always be cooked from cold. A skillet or barbecue grill should be your weapon of choice, over a hot heat. Cook for 2–3 minutes on the first side – don’t be tempted to move it or press down on the meat – and then flip it for a final 1 minute on the other side Don’t forget the burger to bun ratio! Lockjaw burgers are

B

UN

all well and good on paper but a sloppy mess in reality.

A burger should always be a cutlery free affair

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O N T H E TA B L E

VICTORIA SPONGE: LET T H E M E AT

TS

P

KI

DER

O

U

R

+

1

BA

POW NG

FL

If you are to learn the principles of

G

one cake in your lifetime, Britain’s

SI

N

classic teatime treat, the Victoria

AI

sponge, is the one. So simple and

F–R

easily adapted, it is a must in any

SEL

keen cook’s culinary arsenal. Created in the mid-19th century, thanks to

220g

the invention of baking powder, and favoured by Queen Victoria, it is a creamed sponge sandwich cake and can be mastered by following a few simple tricks.

Start by preheating the oven to 180°C – this cake is quick, so you’ll need it ready! Next, weigh out the ingredients. For two 20cm round tins, you need four eggs and the same weight (roughly 220g) of caster sugar, soft unsalted butter and self-raising

g)

flour. Melt a knob of butter leftover

2

0

from the pack and, using kitchen

(2

paper, lightly grease the tins and line

S

the bases with baking parchment.

risk the mix curdling.

4

G

temperature – any colder and you

EG

Make sure everything is at room

CHANGE IT UP:

White chocolate buttercream and fresh blackberries, topped with white chocolate swirls

Elderberry jam filling, topped with vanilla sugar

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DER 22

0g

C

A

S

T E R

S

U

Using an electric whisk or batter

G A

paddle, beat the sugar and softened

R

butter until pale and fluffy. With the motor still running, add 1 egg at a time. If the mix looks like it is beginning to curdle, add 1 tbsp of flour. Once all of the eggs are combined, turn off the whisk and sieve in the flour and 1 level tsp of baking powder. Gently fold using a large metal spoon, creating a figure of eight in the batter, until combined.

The mix should just drop from the spoon; if it doesn’t, loosen slightly with (room temperature) milk.

Pour into the prepared tins and bake immediately in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes until golden,

22

well risen and springy to touch. A

0g

skewer inserted in the centre of each

U

cake should come out clean.

N S

Don’t be tempted to cheat – this

A

LT

recipe is simple and quick enough – as it will produce a denser sponge.

You can add your own twists to the traditional jam filling though, I’ll allow that.

E

D

B

U

TT

ER

Chocolate orange buttercream

Lemon curd swirled through fresh cream

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Taste will explore the complex and colourful world of food, through a collection of thought-provoking, stimulating and beautifully-crafted graphics. Accessible and authoritative, it will cover everything you need to know about food – from its origins to its consumption, weird and wonderful traditions, mealtimes, trends and recipes – as well as startling, unusual and often delicious facts.

Readers are now information hungry but time poor. They want to eat good food, they want to know good food, but they want it quickly and they want it now. They want to feel travelled without leaving home. It took love, care and attention to create but will ultimately be consumed in a matter of minutes by an eager foodie. Food is the one global language that always translates.

With authority and wit, Laura Rowe charts history and predicts trends, all the while complemented by beautiful, naturally styled imagery and fact-packed illustrations by Vicki Turner. From mastering macarons and perfecting pizza toppings to concocting cocktails and delighting your dinner party guests. With tips on troubleshooting recipes as well as knowing your produce inside out Taste will inform and inspire.

•

Innovative and creative illustrator making inspirational and original designs

•

Knowledgeable author with a fun take on the subject

•

Infographics have a strong appeal to the wider international market

Laura Rowe has been writing about food and drink in the UK for more than a decade. She’s written for the Guardian’s Word of Mouth food blog, Olive magazine, Lovefood.com, thewelshmenu.com and has edited the Guild of Food Writers Food Magazine of the Year (2013), Crumbs, in the South West for the past two years. When she’s not eating and drinking her way around the country, she works as a home economist for top celebrity chefs, making the ‘here’s one I made earlier’.

Vicki Turner is a British designer, illustrator and maker with a passion for the natural world. She has recently returned from a few years of worldwide wandering, to work from her new studio in Devon.

Published: October 2015 ISBN: 9781781314630 Format: Hardback RRP: £25.00 Size: 246 x 189 mm Extent: 224 pages Images: For more information please contact Publicity UK: jessica.axe@quartouk.com Publicity US: lisa.trudeau@quartous.com Sales: sales@aurumpress.com T - UK: 020 7284 9300 T - US: 978 282 3582 www.aurumpress.com facebook.com/aurumpressbooks @aurumpress

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