COGNAC
Cover photographs by Jeremy Moss, London Photo Company and author, Michelle Brachet.
Quiller an imprint of Quiller Publishing Ltd
Wykey House, Wykey, Shrewsbury, SY4 1JA Tel: 01939 261616 Fax: 01939 261606 E-mail: info@quillerbooks.com www.quillerpublishing.com
Cognac is the best drink in the world. My 74 years of work in Cognac have seen enormous progress. The Cognac vineyards are now a gigantic garden with exquisite loving care of the vines, with an understanding that everything starts with the land and the plants. Distillation has become a science based upon the terroir, separating the different ‘crus’ of origin. The long ageing of cognac is respected as a unique way to perfection. The result is for me that today cognac is the best drink in the world. Now 94 years old, every morning I go to my office in Segonzac, capital of the Grande Champagne. Everyday at lunch I have a drink of my cognac, it is truly the water of my life, my eau de vie. Max Cointreau (1922–2016) President of Cognac Frapin
Cognac is for people who love life and good living. Bernard Hine Honorary Chairman, HINE Cognac Cognac is not a fashion product. It will not be popular today, then forgotten tomorrow. It’s an integral part of the lives of people in many countries, in many various social environments. Jean-Paul Camus House of Camus
The World of
COGNAC
COGNAC The World of
The World of Cognac is a carefully researched study about the history and culture of cognac – the most revered spirit in the world. Ranging from historical brandy anecdotes dating back to the 7th century all the way up to our modern-day cocktail culture, this is cognac’s story. The author explains where cognac originates from, how it’s made, the people involved, as well as the classification and age, the art of tasting and most importantly of all, choosing and storing one’s cognac. A comprehensive list of cognac houses are featured, providing an informative overview of many of the brands and a selection of their current products.
Michelle Brachet
Michelle Brachet has had a love of cognac for many years. Her manuscript, The World of Cognac was awarded the ‘Best Wine Book for Professionals’ at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in 2014. She is a regular contributor to the award winning cognac website www.Cognac-Expert.com, represents Cognac Expert at cognac events in the UK and Europe and is an official BNIC Cognac Educator. She has also written cognac articles for lifestyle and drink magazines including Imbibe and Wine in China. Michelle also hosts cognac tastings, dinners, masterclasses and training for: consumers, clients in the hospitality industry/drinks business, companies who want to give their staff or key clients a totally new and exciting experience. www.michellebrachet.co.uk.
COGNAC
Making the World’s Finest Distilled Spirit Cognac’s Story through the Ages Sociable Cognac | Understanding Cognac Cognac and Cuisine | Cognac Directory
The World of
The World of
Cognac is an aromatically rich, fascinating and truly diverse spirit. I enjoy nothing more than showing people just how exciting it is in so many different ways. I truly believe that there is a cognac out there for everyone. All you have to do is try it. Michelle Brachet Gourmand World Award-winning writer and cognac expert
Quiller
Michelle Brachet
£25.00
Cognac The World of Michelle Brachet
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Copyright Š 2017 Michelle Brachet First published in the UK in 2017 by Quiller, an imprint of Quiller Publishing Ltd British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978 1 84689 240 0 The right of Michelle Brachet to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Design and Patent Act 1988. The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without any guarantee on the part of the Publisher, who also disclaims any liability incurred in connection with the use of this data or specific details. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission from the Publisher in writing.
Printed in Malaysia
Quiller An imprint of Quiller Publishing Ltd Wykey House, Wykey, Shrewsbury, SY4 1JA Tel: 01939 261616 Fax: 01939 261606 E-mail: info@quillerbooks.com Website: www.quillerpublishing.com
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Contents
Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Sociable Cognac Who and How . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
As You Like It! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
The Basics: Making the World’s Finest Distilled Spirit
Understanding Cognac
Vineyards and Grapes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Aromatic Personalities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
The Harvest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
The Art of Tasting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Distillation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Choosing Your Cognac . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Ageing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
How to Store Cognac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Classification and Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
The Art of Blending . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Cognac and Cuisine Cognac’s Story Through the Ages
Cooking with Cognac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
The Birth of Cognac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Cognac with Food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
The Cognac Region – why is this the only place on earth that can produce this wonderfully complex spirit? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Cognac and Cocktails . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Glossary of Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
Business is Organised . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 The People of Cognac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Cognac Directory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Safeguarding the Cognac Name . . . 102 Cognac’s Journey Around the World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Cognac Today and its Future . . . . . . 119
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
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Foreword Cognac is the most complex and most valuable spirit in the world. Perhaps this is the reason why so few people have dared to write a comprehensive publication about it. There are not many books on cognac out there that are worth taking a closer look at. In most cases, they are the same selection of the obvious brands, clustered together with the same images, the same faces, and the same stories. Not Michelle Brachet’s The World of Cognac however. This book is a carefully researched study about the history and culture of cognac – a timeless handbook for any cognac lover. When we first met Michelle in a Parisian bistro about six years ago, she was already on the case, collecting information left, right and centre, from anyone she could get to in the business. We could tell immediately that this was someone who is truly passionate about cognac, and who really wants to make an authentic contribution to fellow cognac enthusiasts and those of us who want to learn more about this wonderful spirit.
The research and the hard work have paid off! What you read on these pages, is the most accurate account about cognac you will find. This book will give you an all-encompassing overview, ranging from historical brandy anecdotes dating back to the 7th century, all the way to our modern-day cocktail culture. Michelle really does show us the entire ‘World of Cognac’, teaching us everything we need to know about where it originates from, how it’s made, who its people are, and how we live with it today. The back section of the book features a comprehensive list of cognac houses. It gives an informative overview of many brands and lists a selection of their current products. To stay updated on brands and products beyond the publication date of this book, consult Cognac-Expert.com, the largest online platform for cognac and a long-time collaborator and supporter of Michelle’s. And now, indulge in a beautiful story... Sophie & Max Cognac-Expert.com
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1
Introduction
Cognac is essentially a variety of brandy made in the wine-growing regions around the town of Cognac in the French departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime. The area also encompasses several districts of the Dordogne and Deux-Sèvres in western France. Officially called the Cognac Delimited Region, the area borders the Atlantic Ocean to the north of the Aquitaine Basin and stretches from Angoulême and the foothills of the Massif Central in the east to the Gironde Estuary and the islands of Ré and Oléron in the west. The River Charente and its tributaries, including the River Né, the Seugne and the Antenne, traverses the region. Brandy comes from the Dutch word brandewijn, meaning burnt wine. As with many modern distilled spirits, its origins are clearly linked with the history and development of distillation. Brandy can be traced back to the 7th- and 8th-century Moslem Mediterranean states when Arab alchemists created medicinal potions by distilling grapes and other fruits. The methods of distillation spread to Europe and, by the 12th century, brandy as we know it began to appear. By the 14th century, it was a popular drink throughout the continent. Welcome to Cognac sign as you enter the town
The bridge over the River Charente in Cognac
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introduction
Cognac is the best-known and most respected brandy in the world. Its quality and reputation makes it the benchmark by which all other brandies are judged.
The wonderful rich, golden colour of cognac (courtesy of Shannon Lee Robinson, SLR Photography) In view of the fact that many brandies are distilled from grapes, it is not surprising that the finest brandy comes from the world’s best grape-growing regions. By the end of the 19th century, French and Spanish brandies dominated the western European market and their overseas empires. Brandies from the Black Sea region, including Bulgaria, the Crimea, and Georgia, ruled the Eastern European market. The most generic definition of brandy is a spirit made from fermented fruit juice or fruit pulp and skin. Brandy generally contains between 35% and 60% alcohol by volume (ABV) and is traditionally enjoyed after a meal. The spirit usually gets its caramel colour from being aged in wooden casks, but colouring can also be added.
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The grapes used to make cognac, principally Ugni Blanc (pronounced ‘uni blan’), actually make terribly thin tart table wine, but they are perfect for distilling. The key is the high acidity of the wine, which is largely due to the grapes not reaching full maturity in the region of Cognac. The production of cognac involves a double distillation process using copper pot stills. The spirit, called eau-de-vie (water of life), is then aged uninterruptedly in oak casks made from French (often Tronçais or Limousin) oak. The majority of cognacs are initially aged in new oak casks, which gives colour and initiates the mellowing of the spirit. The batches that are selected for long-term ageing are then transferred to used, seasoned casks. This allows the brandy to mature without being overwhelmed by the oak flavour. Most cognacs consist of a blend of brandies from different vintages, and often, from different grape-growing areas or crus. Even single vineyard cognacs usually consist of a blend of several cognacs of different ages. There are exceptions, however, and some houses have always produced vintage cognac: HINE and Delamain are the best examples. With ever-changing market trends, especially competition from whisky, vintage cognacs are becoming more popular. Since blending is the key cultural element that gives the spirit its identity, however, vintage cognacs are still not that common.
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Cognac is now a highly regulated world and the regulations are there to protect the growers, distillers, blenders, owners, brands and, of course, the consumers. Furthermore, they ensure that the quality of cognac remains high and that the image of this exciting spirit will be maintained in the future. The Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) is responsible for policing the cognac industry. The BNIC is also entrusted with public service missions and acts on behalf of all the growers and firms in the Cognac region. Since shortly after World War II all the stages of cognac’s production have been strictly regulated to guarantee its quality and authenticity. With that also came the ever-growing global reputation of cognac. The BNIC’s mission is ‘to develop and promote cognac, representing the best interests of all cognac professionals, including growers, merchants and members of other activities related to the cognac trade’. The BNIC is also responsible for issuing official certificates stating the age of the cognac being sold (certificats d’age or the Acquit Regional Jaune d’Or), which validates the cognac’s origin.
Le Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac: © BNIC/Stéphane CHARBEAU
The story of cognac specifically, including both the history of its birth as well as the Cognac region and its people, is a complex and fascinating one. The two are intrinsically linked and there certainly would not be one without the other. Understanding the basic process of how this revered golden liquid is made, however, is fundamental to the bigger picture and why cognac is regarded as the
most luxurious spirit in the world. Despite the occasional technological advancement, the cognac-production process has changed little over the years. From grape to glass - everything about making cognac is dependent on nature and the skill of all those involved working with these natural processes to create the most wonderfully complex and diverse spirit. This is ultimately what makes cognac so fascinating.
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The Basics: making the world’s finest distilled spirit
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2
Vineyards and Grapes There are several main components that together play an integral role in the production of cognac and the reason why every cognac has its own individual character and style: the terroir, the grape, the grower, the distiller and the blender. The terroir of a vineyard is what makes it unique but the term itself is often misunderstood
as it doesn’t have a precise translation into English. The common misconception is that a vineyard’s terroir only refers to its soil but it is actually an amalgamation of its climate, geology, topsoil and subsoil, the amount of sun it receives, its ability to hold water, and the gradient of the hillside. Growers, distillers and blenders may come and go but the terroir always remains.
Pascal and Christophe Fillioux attending their vineyards
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Mother Nature is quite capable of making wine from grapes, but without human intervention there wouldn’t be any vineyards. The mineral components of the topsoil and subsoil, the fertility, depth and structure, and the effectiveness of the irrigation system are all important when determining the quality of the grape. The region’s climate, altitude, steepness of slope and exposure to the sun are also integral to a vineyard’s character. Good viticulture practice combined with skilled winemaking will successfully allow the resulting wine to express the character of the terroir, while bad practices in both will mask it. Although the terroir greatly influences the wine, growers are not completely restricted by it. The various historical and geological contributing factors that make up the terroir in the Cognac region are particularly key and unique to the production of cognac. The reasons for this will be looked at in ‘The Cognac region – why is this the only place on earth that can produce this wonderfully complex spirit’. Throughout the Cognac Delimited Region around 4,500 grape growers produce the white wine that is used for making cognac. Some cognac houses have their own vineyards and produce their own grapes and eaux-de-vie, such as Cognac Frapin, while others also buy from the thousands of growers in the region, such as Martell and Courvoisier. When cognac houses rely on the growers, the quality of the produce is paramount, so the relationship between the cognac houses and the growers has to be a solid and trusting one.
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Close-up of white grapes used to make cognac (courtesy of Martell Cognac)
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The entrance to Domaines HINE – 70 acres of vineyards situated in Grande Champagne
Not always the case historically, but the Ugni Blanc grape (also known as St-Emilion-desCharentes) accounts for more than 90% of the production of cognac. The other grape varieties that are allowed include Folle Blanche, Colombard and Montils. Sémillon is an authorised grape variety, but it is not
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currently used to make cognac. Folignan (a fairly new variety created by crossing Ugni Blanc with Folle Blanche) is also grown but can only occupy a maximum of 10% of the area planted per grower. Some houses are also The characteristic shape of Ugni Blanc grapes
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Map of the Cognac Delimited Region: © BNIC/N141.COM
experimenting with new varieties, although the success of these will naturally not be known for many years as the resulting eauxde-vie get put to sleep to age in oak barrels. These grapes are chosen because a particular type of white wine is required to make good cognac, although, as has already been mentioned, this wine isn’t particularly palatable. Generally speaking, it needs to be relatively low in alcohol content (between seven and 10 degrees) but high in acidity. Ugni
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Blanc also has a natural resistance to grey rot and matures later than other varieties, so it is particularly suitable for cognac production. Following the recovery of the Cognac region’s vineyards, left decimated by the disastrous attack of the phylloxera plague at the end of the 19th century, all grape varieties were grafted on to North American rootstocks from Denison in Texas (the sister city of Cognac). So aged cognacs made from pre-phylloxera grapes are particularly coveted by connoisseurs the world
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over, as they were the last to use the original native grapes grown in tight vineyard rows. The Cognac production area was delimited by the decree of 1st May 1909. Based on the soil composition described by geologist Henri Coquand in 1860 (the detail of which will be looked at later), six growing regions or crus were delimited and then ratified by the decree. The Cognac Delimited Region now consists of: Grande Champagne Petite Champagne The Borderies Fins Bois Bons Bois Bois ordinaires or Bois à terroirs It should be noted that the term Champagne, when applied to the Grande and Petite crus, has nothing to do with the famous sparkling wine. The crus were named when local forests were cleared at the beginning of the 19th century. The word ‘Champagne’ is a derivative of the Latin campania, which evolved into the old French word for countryside: champaigne. The delimited area covers over a million hectares, of which just over 75,000 are planted with vineyards; approximately 95% of those are for the production of the white wine that is used for making cognac.
A classic view of the rows of vines in the Cognac region
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The 2016 BNIC statistics for the Cognac Delimited Region are as follows: Growth Areas
Hectares
Grande Champagne
16,606
Petite Champagne
15,746
Borderies
4,201
Fins Bois
32,137
Bons Bois
9,080
Bois Ordinaires TOTAL In view of the fact that the delimited region extends over four French departments, it is not surprising that the wine produced and therefore the resulting cognacs have different characteristics and offer great diversity. Of course the grape variety chosen is part of the equation, but the terroir is equally important. Cognacs made from eaux-de-vie from the vineyards bordering the Atlantic, where sea breezes blow across the vineyards, are quite different from those made from eaux-de-
972 75,742 vie from wines from the Champagne crus. The way eaux-de-vie are aged also differs depending on which crus the wines have come from originally: some need longer ageing in oak barrels, while others reach their optimum in a much shorter period of time. The differing nature of eaux-de-vie from different crus is what makes cognac such an exciting and varied canvas on which master blenders can create such unique and complex cognacs.
Rows of vines in the Grande Champagne region
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An oak barrel that contains eau-de-vie made from the Folignan grape variety
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Cognac Directory
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cognac directory I N T R O D U C T I O N
This directory is not a comprehensive list of all the cognac houses as there are more than 270 of them. Many here are personal favourites and others have kindly supported this book. Some producers may not be familiar to you but listing them with their own tasting notes will hopefully encourage you to move outside of the stereotypical cognac comfort zone and explore the wonders and diversity of this fabulous spirit. With global distribution networks and an increasing reliance on ecommerce, it should be possible to buy most of the cognacs listed here, although some might be harder to track down than others. Cognac-Expert.com is the largest and most popular website about cognac. It is the best source of information on the cognac houses, and it has all the latest news about the spirit. The site also boasts an online shop where you can buy more than 650 different bottles and brands. They are then shipped from Cognac to anywhere in the world. Cognac-Expert.com is the brainchild of Sophie and Max von Olfers, whose family have lived in the Cognac region and worked in the industry for over 50 years. Dedicated to everything cognac, the philosophy behind the website is to unite cognac lovers throughout the world and to provide information for those who are new to it. They aim to promote both the smaller family-run houses as well as the big names like Hennessy and Martell, so Cognac-Expert.com should be your first port of call for anything related to the spirit.
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ABK6 Cognac Contact details: +33 (0)545 663 572 www.abk6-cognac.com Blending eaux-de-vie from a single estate gives a cognac inimitable character and depth. To extract the fruit of the terroir, each step of the production process is carried out on site. ABK6 delivers a modern cognac for a new generation of brown-spirit consumers. The original and elegant bottle asserts its modernity with its marked shoulders. ABK6 remains deeply respectful of the product’s traditions and is intransigent about its quality. Very old eaux-de-vie make the blends exceptionally smooth. This aromatic and intense cognac displays the typical fruit and freshness of Domaines Francis Abécassis. Over the past five years, numerous medals have been awarded to the three brands, guaranteeing the quality of ABK6 Cognac.
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VS Pure Single Gold in colour with amber highlights. The initial nose has aromas of apricots and fresh grapes, which then evolves into lightly spiced fruit-filled pastry. The palate is crisp and elegant with good presence and exceptional length. ABV: 40% Silver: San Francisco World Spirits Competition, 2016 Silver: International Wine & Spirits Competition, 2015
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VSOP Grand Cru
XO Family Réserve
Old gold in colour. The nose is complex with stewed fruit and woody notes, which are followed by brioche, vanilla, apple and cinnamon. The palate has excellent full structure with a long finish of vanilla and woody flavours.
Deep old gold in colour. The nose displays aromatic richness with dried fruit and nuts and the liquorice aromas typical of mature cognacs. It develops towards the spice and characteristic fruit pastry notes, which are the house’s signature. The palate is dense and smooth, yet elegant with considerable finesse.
ABV: 40% Gold: San Francisco World Spirits Competition, 2015
ABV: 40% Silver: San Francisco World Spirits Competition, 2015
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cognac directory
Ice Cognac by ABK6
ABK6 Extra
Ice Cognac by ABK6 allows both connoisseurs and amateurs to appreciate cognac in a trendy new way.
Deep old gold in colour with amber highlights. The nose shows great elegance with leather, cedar and fig aromas. It opens towards sandalwood and candied lemon, cinnamon and ginger notes.
Fruit of the union between an exceptional vineyard and family traditions, Ice Cognac is a unique and innovative blend. It is a contemporary concept offering consumers the festive experience of cognac on ice. In an exclusive and elegant pearl-white bottle, Ice Cognac by ABK6 expresses freshness, sophistication and finesse. The shiny white-and-gold frieze gives this bottle a certain ‘Marie Antoinette’ style. To allow this cognac to develop, serve in a tumbler over ice cubes. Soft and smooth to start, Ice Cognac marries subtle notes of fruits and evolves into fresh aromas of lemon sorbet and mint.
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The palate is full and rich. It reveals wooden and spicy hints of honey, so is wonderfully round and complex. Each decanter is numbered and bottled by hand. ABV: 43% Double Gold: San Francisco World Spirits Competition, 2015 Silver Outstanding: International Wine and Spirit Competition, 2014
ABV: 40%
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Bache-Gabrielsen Cognac Contact details: +33 (0)545 320 745 www.bache-gabrielsen.com More than 100 years ago, young Second Lieutenant Thomas Bache-Gabrielsen from Holmestrand, in Norway, went to Cognac to gain experience in an industry that appealed to his heart and mind. Peter Anton Rustad from Ås in Akershus had arrived in the region in 1893 and, in 1905, he bought the firm of A. Edmond Dupuy with business partner Thomas Bache-Gabrielsen. In 1906, Thomas married Mademoiselle Odette Villard from just outside Cognac. The cognac was initially marketed under the name Rustad & Bache-Gabrielsen (alongside the company name Dupuy). The links with Scandinavia were very strong and it was here that they established their first markets. Rustad died in an accident in 1916 so Thomas Bache-Gabrielsen continued the business on his own. Four generations later, the house is now run by Hervé BacheGabrielsen, Thomas’s great-grandson. Bache-Gabrielsen is one of the few remaining family-run houses. It has enjoyed great success, particularly in Norway.
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VS Tre Kors During Norwegian Prohibition (1916-1926), when the spirit was only available for medicinal purposes, Thomas BacheGabrielsen ingenuously replaced the three stars on the cognac label with three crosses (Tre Kors). This blend combines the vigour of its youngest eaux-devie with the first steps of grander maturing cognacs. To the nose, it offers vanilla from the oak together with citrus fruits and spices. The taste is soft and fruity with a lingering freshness. Gold: World Cognac Awards, 2015 Silver: International Wine & Spirits Competition, 2015
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VSOP
XO Fine Champagne
The VSOP is a smooth blend of carefully selected eaux-devie. On the nose of this elegant cognac come the aromas of mature wood, vanilla, dried fruits (apricot, almond, date, nut), banana and Oriental spices. The taste is well balanced between fruit and wood. The finish leaves a delightful aromatic structure and reveals the elegance of Petite Champagne and the fruity aromas of Fins Bois.
Having aged in Limousin oak casks for much longer than a classic XO, this cognac is extremely floral on the nose. Then come aromas of cinnamon, vanilla, honey, iris and cigar boxes. The taste is beautifully balanced on the palate with dried fruits, chocolate and slight peppery notes, which reveal the exceptional ageing process. The finishing taste is elegant and long in the mouth, preserving the cinnamon and sweet, spicy flavours.
Silver: International Wine and Spirit Competition, 2014
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Sérénité – Très Vieille Grande Champagne The name Sérénité was chosen to reflect the peaceful mood brought on by this unique cognac. In addition to the traditional Ugni Blanc grape, a generous portion of the old and rare Folle Blanche variety has been used to enhance the quality of this connoisseur’s blend. The impression starts with an elegant nose with a hint of mocha and bitter orange marmalade. The mouth is round and velvety with a touch of coffee, vanilla and floral tones. The aftertaste is characteristically rich and long as old and pure Grande Champagne should be. Double Gold: San Francisco World Spirits Competition, 2016 Silver Outstanding: International Wine and Spirit Competition, 2014
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Hors d’Âge The oldest elements of this pure Grande Champagne are from around 1917, while the youngest are from the 1960s. This cognac offers a rich and generous bouquet that is beautifully balanced between fruit, flowers and spice notes from the wood. On the palate, the attack is powerful and almost oily in consistency, a distinctive and unmistakable stamp of Grande Champagne that also offers its famous finish in which cinnamon, nutmeg and red fruit return in force for a long farewell. World’s Best Superior Quality Cognac: World Cognac Awards, 2015 Gold Outstanding: International Wine and Spirit Competition, 2014
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