THE MAGAZINE FOR MANAGERS, SOMMELIERS AND BARTENDERS SINGAPORE NO. 4
P
ETER CHUA Singapore & SEA World Class Champion
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s n o i t a e l r u o t p a a r g g Con Team Sin East Asian h s t l u a o Fin eS
h 4 t 1 t 0 u 2 o s g s n a i t l k a C a t m d a e t for geo Worl e h t m a o i r f s a i t A s D e b e d ll th orl A
W s k n i r D
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Welcome Welcome to our latest missive on all things drinks in Singapore. Our labour of love is now in it’s fourth edition and we hope you’re enjoying the read as much as we are putting it together. While last edition we brought you rum, Cognac and brandy it’s Tequila’s turn to shine in DWA – Singapore 4. We look into two cracking Tequila’s: Don Julio and Patron, and discover some great Tequila cocktails in our cocktail club section on page 25 – 29. Our very own Vijay Mudalair gives us his run down on the much hyped bar scene in Australia with his ‘tour down-under’. Are those bars as good as those Aussies would like us to believe? Well we are a little biased of course – so we’ll leave it to Vijay to tell that story. At the recent South East Asian World Class Bar Show and World Class Final team Singapore shone with Peter Chua from 28 HK St being crowned the regions top bartender. Over two days Peter proved to be unbeatable as 26 of the regions top bartenders battled it out for the coveted title. Now to take on the rest of the world – DWA Singapore wishes Peter the best of luck in London. Throughout the pages of DWA we hope you pick up something useful and take that back to your work – we travel from Champagne to Burgundy and discover Singapore’s home for Krug. While also raising a big CHEERS as the industry comes together to raise money for a cause lead by Mark Thomas; ‘Cocktails for a Cause’. Well done and we urge you to get behind and continue with this good work.
Drinks World Asia - Singapore is distributed to 3000+ bars, restaurants and hotels in Singapore. If you would like to have your brand represented or would like to contribute or comment please contact: marc@hipmedia.com.au
Congratulations to the team behind and from 28HK St for winning Best International Cocktail Bar at this year’s Tales of the Cocktail! ~from Drinks World Asia
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Contents
12
18
20
52
Meet
Feature
Profile
10 52 65 74 78 96 100
Peter Chua
David Piper - Hendrick’s
Gaz Regan
Jigger & Pony’s Aki Eguchi Louis Tan
Krug Champagne
Understanding the Terroir
12 20 24 34 48 60 68 70
World Class SEA Final
World of Tequila
Learn to Sip Tequila
Ketel One
Just One Shift
18 30 56 84 88
65
The World’s First Luxury Tequila - Don Julio The Good Boss - Patron
A Look Down Old Street Beam Suntory take on Beerfest Martini Heritage
Cocktails Through the Ages Gaz Regan’s Mindful Bartending Hannah Lanfear
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Contents
94
38 44 Drink
25 92 94
8°
Cocktail Club
Martini - Tasting Notes
Bollinger
76
Visit
38 44 76 104 108
Vijay Mudaliar’s Bar Tour Down Under
108
Regular
83
Michael Silvers from Uber Team
Cuba
Jigger & Pony
New Zealand Wine
3 Years in Bourgognes
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Credits CREDITS Publisher Marc Rodrigues marc@hipmedia.com.au EDITORIAL Publishing Editor Ashley Pini DESIGN Senior Designer Ryan Andrew Salcedo ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Sasha Falloon SALES Sales Director Marc Rodrigues PHOTOGRAPHY Photographer Jana Zilcayova Writers: Ashley Pini, Hannah Waters, Hannah Lanfear, Mark Thomas, Eric Stephenson, Vijay Mudaliar, Michael Silvers, Gaz Regan Publication MCI (P) 198/03/2013 Sponsor
COVER STORY: Peter Chua, Singapore and SEA World Class Champion. Stories on pages 10 and 12.
Produced and published by
Editorial Enquiries: If you, your bar, or your brand and company have news or events you would like to share with Drinks World Asia please contact: ashley@hipmedia.com.au Although Hip Media Asia endeavours to ensure the accuracy and correctness of the information and drinks trade and drinkstrade.com.au, we do not accept any liability or responsibility for any inaccuracies or missions. The views expressed by authors of publications or event presentations, published drinks trade, do not necessarily represent the views of Hip Media Asia. Decisions or actions based on the information and publications provided by Hip Media Asia are at your own risk.
drinks-world-asia @drinksworldasia
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째 MEET 째
Chat with
PETER CHUA
T
he incredibly humble Peter Chua has five years experience and is looking forward to many more in this dynamic industry. A lover of creative and innovative cocktails, Peter gets a sense of euphoria when he creates a perfectly balanced cocktail.
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What is your background in bartending? In my relatively short bartending career of five years, I have worked in a string of hotels, clubs and pubs across Singapore, with venues ranging from Attica to the Disgruntled Chef. Despite this, 28 HongKong St has been the pillar to my bartending career as it really ignited my love for the craft. What about your background with World Class? 2014 is my first competitive entry to World Class. I consider myself fortunate be able to learn from past competitors and finalists such as my great friends Zac de Git and Jeremy Chua. Watching these guys progress through the challenges in World Class 2013 really helped my approach to this year’s competition, and having my good friend and colleague, Leo Chue, compete beside me was a great way to ease my nerves in my maiden voyage into the competitive seas of Diageo Reserve World Class. Tell us about your World Class 2014 experience so far - what did you learn? And what have you enjoyed? To list every single thing I have learned would be a massive task. Being my first entry into Diageo Reserve World Class, every step of the journey was an eye-opening experience. On a personal level, I learned to be a better
presenter, I learned a lot more about the Diageo Reserve brands, and I learned an incredible amount from the other competitors; I am blown away by the talent we have in South East Asia. Most importantly, I learned I had the ability to perform at such a high level of competition among other talented competitors, something I never knew until I entered World Class. Overall, I enjoyed the drink presentation; how often do you get the chance to talk about a drink you created to such a large (and willing) audience? Finally, I really enjoyed seeing how the craft scene has grown in South East Asia in the past five years, and the sense of pride that goes with it. What is the best piece of advice you have been given, and who gave it to you? To single out one piece of advice would not do justice to all of the industry legends who have given me advice over the past few years. However, the most recent advice I have received that really resonated with me was from my colleague and mentor Zdenek Kastanek, who said “No matter how much you feel you are working harder than everyone else, or feel that people are not putting in as much effort as you are, or feel others are getting more imminent rewards than you are, remember why you are doing this. It is not for the short term rewards, but for the gold at the end of the rainbow”.
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° FEATURE °
SEA’s FIRST INDUSTRY BAR SHOW RECOGNISES THE REGION’S RISING TALENT
D
ouble win for Peter Chua, 28 Hong Kong St to represent Singapore at the Global Finals and is crowned SEA World Class Bartender of the Year 2014
After creating over 230 cocktails across four high-intensity challenges, it was Peter’s night. Local talent, Peter proved to be unbeatable at the inaugural Diageo Reserve World Class South East Asia Finals as he was crowned both Singapore and SEA World Class Bartender of the Year 2014. Over two days, 26 of the region’s top bartenders were tested to their limits under the intense scrutiny of six renowned judges*. Singapore was on a winning streak as Mark ‘Batman’ Graham Thomas, Bacchanalia, not only walked away with the coveted ‘Speed Challenge’ title, but Team Singapore was presented with the first ever SEA Country Cup. The Country Cup was awarded to the team who worked collectively to achieve the highest score over the four challenges. Peter and Mark both competed against the rising talents from Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines, to take their respective titles. Competition was tough as each
of the participants vied for the opportunity to represent their country at the industry’s most respected global bartending competition in July 2014**. “I’m ecstatic! Competition was stiff, everyone did so well and I had no idea that I had won. I was completely overwhelmed. I will be going to celebrate tonight with a Negroni and am definitely going to have a good night’s rest,” commented an elated Peter. Guest judge, Jeff Bell, head bartender, PDT New York and Diageo Reserve World Class 2013 Runner-up, summed up the judges’ opinion: “Peter is a product of his own environment, he’s surrounded himself with talented mentors and it shows. Peter commands the bar, he knows what he’s good at and focuses on that. He’s got the skill and the technique, but what made him really stand out is his swagger, you know that he’s a champion. You can feel it in every serve.”
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The Diageo Reserve World Class SEA Winners: • Diageo Reserve World Class SEA Best Bartender of Year 2014: Peter Chua from 28 Hong Kong St • Diageo Reserve World Class Best Bartender of Year 2014, Singapore: Peter Chua from 28 Hong Kong St • Diageo Reserve World Class Best Bartender of Year 2014, Malaysia: Leow Yinying from Marini’s on 57 • Diageo Reserve World Class Best Bartender of Year 2014, Indonesia: I Gusti Salit from Woo Bar Bali, Indonesia • Diageo Reserve World Class Best Bartender of Year 2014, Thailand: Ronnaporn Kanivichaporn from Roof Hideaway, Thailand • Diageo Reserve World Class Best Bartender of Year 2014, Vietnam: Le Thanh Tung from Chill Sky Bar, Vietnam
• Diageo Reserve World Class Best Bartender of Year 2014, Philippines: Joma Rivera from The Curator, Philippines • Diageo Reserve World Class SEA Country Cup 2014: Singapore (Tom Hogan and Bannie Kang from Anti:dote, Mark Graham Thomas from Bacchanalia; Peter Chua from 28 Hong Kong St) • Ketel One Market Challenge 2014 (SEA): Sarawut Pinpech from Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, Thailand • Johnnie Walker Flavour Challenge 2014 (SEA): Pongpak Sudthipongse from Why 97, Thailand • Cocktails against the Clock Challenge 2014 (SEA): Mark Graham Thomas from Bacchanalia, Singapore • Signature Batch Cocktails Challenge 2014 (SEA): Peter Chua from 28 Hong Kong St, Singapore
Diageo Reserve World Class first launched in Singapore as a bartender mixology competition to improve the standards of drinks being served and to provide bartenders with solid career opportunities through certified training. In just five years, World Class has grown rapidly to become the biggest and most respected programme in the industry, dedicated to transforming fine drinking experiences and cocktail culture globally. “Combining the region’s first industry trade show with its first World Class SEA Finals over the last 48 hours, is testimony to the evolution of the cocktail scene in just a few years. Diageo is proud to have supported this growth through its World Class platform, which has fostered the careers of many of the region’s most celebrated bartenders today,” added Graeme Harlow, Managing Director, Southeast Asia, Diageo.
The Challenges Ketel One Market Challenge (Ingredients Challenge) Early on Thursday morning, 26 bartenders were taken to the vibrant and bustling Tiong Bahru market where they were given 30 minutes and a set budget of SGD$20 to purchase fresh produce and ingredients unique to the Asian cuisine. Each were allowed to make one cocktail with the ingredients purchased, pairing them with a pre-determined, limited back bar selection of ingredients. The challenge tested the creativity and spontaneity of the bartenders. Sarawut Pinpech from Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok won by a close margin with ‘A Date in Singapore’ for its complexity of flavours and unique representation of the Asian cuisine. Johnnie Walker Flavour is King Challenge (Whisky Challenge) This challenge encouraged the finalists to create a cocktail showcasing the flavours of Johnnie Walker Blue Label. Each made one cocktail to pair with one of the following items – fruits, herbs and spices. The judges awarded marks according to the uniqueness of the ingredient-to-whisky pairing and the expression of the spirit. Pongpak Sudthipongse from Why97 emerged tops for his ground breaking use of rosella and starfruit shrub, smoked
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dry apple and orange, which perfectly complemented the flavours of Johnnie Walker Blue Label. Cocktails against the Clock (Speed Challenge) With just eight minutes on the clock, the next challenge saw each bartender tested for their speed, knowledge and efficiency, in creating a minimum of six cocktails. The judges awarded marks for the bartenders’ ability to balance speed with skill, being able to serve multiple, great tasting drinks, while still being a wonderful host. Mark Graham Thomas from Bacchanalia was the clear winner as he entertained the growing audience while creating a series of perfect serves and paying attention to the small details. Signature Batch Challenge (Punch Bowl) The Signature Batch challenge focused on the bartenders’ ability to create awe-inspiring signature serves that could be produced en-mass, without compromising on taste and quality. The cocktails were each served from intricate vessels and garnished just prior to service. The signature batch cocktails were served to both the judges and the audience. Peter Chua from 28 Hong Kong St took home the prize for this one with his Ballad of Black Beard, which featured Ron Zacapa 23 and Don Julio Reposado.
The SEA Bar Show In addition to the bar side action, Diageo presented the region’s first Bar Show on 15 & 16 May at 72-13 Mohamed Sultan Rd. The vibrant event showcased a number of leading trade suppliers including East Imperial, The Bitter Truth and Über Bar Tools, alongside a series of seminars. The trending seminars were hosted by some of the world’s most respected and celebrated experts including: Bob Nolet (11th Generation Master Distiller and Executive Vice President, Nolet Distillery); Hidetsugu Ueno (Diageo Reserve World Class Global Judge) and Marian Beke (Bar Manager, Nightjar, London). Topics ranged from Single Malts – The Debate of Aged and Unaged, to La Quintinye Vermouth Royal and The New Wave of Vermouth. Attracting SEA’s most influential F&B trade, the Bar Show reinforced Singapore as being the home of the region’s most progressive cocktail scene, while highlighting the influence SEA is collectively having on the industry in Asia Pacific. *A specially curated group of international names formed the judging panel including: - Dennis Tamse (Global Ambassador, Nolet Distillery) - Lam Chi Mun (APAC Director, Diageo Bar Academy) - Hidetsugu Ueno (Diageo Reserve World Class Global Judge) - Marc Rodrigues (Publisher / Owner, Drinks World Asia) - Marian Beke (Bar Manager, Nightjar) - Jeff Bell (Diageo Reserve World Class 2013 Runner-up) **Diageo Reserve WORLD CLASS Finals (GLOBAL) Each country winner from the SEA Finals will go on to represent their market and compete on a global stage for the title of the Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender of the Year 2014 in Great Britain, from 28 July to 1 August 2014.
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° PROFILE °
World’ s First Tequila
Luxury
T
PHO TO: D
on J ulio G
onz ález
oday’s finest tequilas, now recognized among the ranks of other complex and nuanced spirits of the world, are as refined and elegant as they are alluring. Originally known as “mezcal wine,” tequila is rooted in the tradition and national spirit of Mexico, where it remains the drink of choice.
A new international tequila culture has emerged as trendsetters from the most distinguished cosmopolitan cities – New York to London to Sydney – are appreciating its complexities and versatility. Whether sipped and savored or enjoyed in drinks inspired by the cocktail revolution, tequila is much more than just a spirit reserved for quick shots. Widely revered as the best, and currently the most popular selling luxury tequila in Mexico, Tequila Don Julio is the choice for the savvy spirits and cocktail connoisseur. Beginning with the pioneering agricultural principles of Don Julio González and his personal pursuit of perfection, Don Julio revolutionized the tequila industry and set the standard for ultra-premium tequila. In 1942, at the age of 17, Don Julio González, who spent his youth learning the ancient methods of making mescal wine in underground ovens, founded his first tequila distillery in his hometown of Atotonilco el Alto. The Los Altos region of Mexico offers the rich, clay soils and perfect microclimate for growing the sweet blue agave used in Tequila Don Julio. As one of the oldest tequila makers in the region, Don Julio recognized the region’s unmatched resources to cultivate the best agave.
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Don Julio originally named his tequila Tres Magueyes (“maguey” being another name for the agave plant) and spent the next few decades perfecting his art of tequila making to achieve the highest quality standards. His devotion to excellence is evidenced by his distinct method of planting signature prime agave farther apart than most distilleries to yield larger and sweeter plants. With further patience and determination, he cultivated a product worthy of bearing his name, Tequila Don Julio, and became the first to give a tequila the name of “Don,” a traditional title of respect. His artisanal methods are still utilized today and can be seen during the harvest at the estate fields of Tequila Don Julio’s distillery, La Primavera. An expert team of jimadors selects individual, fully mature agave ripened for eight to 10 years, while many other distilleries harvest full fields after only six to seven years without care to the maturity and ripeness of each agave plant. The jimadors use skill and precision to hand cut the agave leaves and bitter parts from the “piñas,” ensuring only the sweetest juices are later extracted. The uniformly cut piñas are then slowly steamcooked in masonry ovens for three days and
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left to rest for a cooling period. To preserve the characteristic flavor of Tequila Don Julio, the sweet honey juice from the cooked agave is fermented with Don Julio’s own proprietary and unique, all-natural yeast strain derived from his own agave fields. Enrique de Colsa, the Master Distiller, oversees the small batch, double-distillation process in pot stills, which removes the “head and tail” impurities from the spirit, leaving only the “heart” of the distillate behind. Three final pot stills of the resulting 100 percent blue agave tequila are then blended to maintain the consistency of Don Julio’s unique taste profile. Tequila Don Julio Blanco is bottled and immediately released and the aged tequilas – the Reposado, Añejo, 1942 and Real – are matured in American white oak barrels. A testament of Don Julio’s dedication to creating only the most premium tequilas, all aged
tequilas are matured for longer periods of time than required by the Mexican government. Before leaving the distillery, the Master Distiller conducts thorough tastings to assure that each spirit adheres to the quality standards, as set forth by its founder. In 1987, 45 years after Don Julio began his mission of setting the benchmark of excellence for the tequila industry, his sons released a special bottling – Reserva de Don Julio – in his honor. Originally reserved as gifts for friends at a family celebration, his sons made this special tequila tribute available to everyone, officially creating the ultra-premium tequila segment. While Don Julio retired in 2002, he still consults with and grows agave for Tequila Don Julio and his legacy is carried on with each smooth, consistent and distinguished tequila produced today at La Primavera.
Añejo with complex cooked agave and sweet honey flavors.” Tequila Don Julio has always played an instrumental role in de Colsa’s life, even before he began working at La Primavera. One Don Julio tradition he holds dear to his heart is the celebration of the birth of his close friends’ first sons. As a tribute to his Mexican heritage, he presents a bottle of Don Julio Real with a special note that reads: “I’m giving you this present. Keep it and promise me that you will drink this with your son when his own first son is born.” This tradition, inspired by a special gift he received when his first son was born, now has an even greater meaning for de Colsa as he dedicates himself to preserving the authenticity and superior quality of the tequila renowned as
the best throughout Mexico – Tequila Don Julio. Enrique de Colsa currently resides with his family in Guadalajara, Mexico. Born in Veracruz, Mexico, he grew up among the deep blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Upon graduating in 1981 from the University of Anáhuac in Edo, Mexico with a diploma in Industrial Engineering, he began working in the bottling industry. Interestingly, he started his career with Tequila Don Julio with the pivotal contribution of working to design the iconic, hand-blown glass bottle and wooden stopper that is still used today. It was during this time that de Colsa was invited to officially join the Don Julio family seven years ago. When he’s not at the distillery, de Colsa enjoys spending time with his family, golfing, reading and playing the guitar.
ENRIQUE DE COLSA
Master Distiller, Tequila Don Julio Upholding the heritage, highest quality standards and characteristic flavor of Mexico’s No. 1 ultra-premium tequila is no small feat, but for Enrique de Colsa, Master Distiller of Tequila Don Julio, it is his greatest accomplishment. While working alongside Don Julio González at La Primavera Distillery, de Colsa not only built a long-standing personal friendship that goes beyond the agave fields, but also developed a passion for crafting the finest tequila, the kind that can only be inspired by learning first-hand from Don Julio himself. While he quickly mastered the technical aspects of tequila making, it was de Colsa’s unwavering commitment to Don Julio’s distinctive handcrafted methods and his innate understanding of flavor profiles and aromas that proved he was the ideal person to preserve the legacy of perfection for the original luxury tequila. As Master Distiller, de Colsa is responsible for tasting and evaluating the subtleties and nuances of each different tequila, managing the barrel-aging process to impart further depth of flavor, and fine-tuning every blend to assure consistency. His favorite part of the job is maintaining the integrity of flavor through the cooking and distillation process. “I love the sweet honey smell of the cooked agave juices as they flow from our masonry ovens and being able to taste that same pure agave flavor in the distilled tequila,” de Colsa explains. “It’s amazing how each of our tequilas reflects the agave at such different points of the process; from Blanco with the freshness of raw agave to
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° FEATURE °
The World of Tequila T
he mere mention of tequila conjures a minefield of different names and varieties. Paloma Alvarez sheds some light on the varied meanings behind one of the world’s most controversial spirits.
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TEQUILA In Mexico, agave spirits were initially known as “Vino de Mezcal” followed by the name of the region. The production of agave spirit was confined to semi-clandestine activities until Mexico and Venezuela gained independence from Spain in the 19th century. The biggest production explosion of the agave spirits industry in Mexico occurred during the Age of Prohibition in the United States where whiskey factories were closed down and consumption was substituted with agave spirits in the Southern and Western States, smuggled across the Rio Grande. Venezuela’s agave spirits industry was suppressed by the military throughout the 20th century in favour of the big rum industrialists, who financed the military. However, since the
arrival of President Chavez, the Venezuelan agave spirits industry has undergone a newly found, proactive dynamism and export push. Dr. Weber, a German scientist, is historically credited with being the first person to have properly researched and classified most agave plants in the Americas during the first decade of the 20th century, and is consequently considered the actual grandfather of today’s modern agave spirits industry. In his honour, “Blue Agave” has been botanically named “Agave Weber.” Tequila Cuervo, owned by the Beckmann family of diplomatic German decent, is historically credited for having created the brand awareness for the tequila name after WWII in the United States and subsequently throughout the world.
THE NAMING CONVENTION Throughout history, depending on prevailing fashion trends, one type of agave has been considered superior over another. Agave varieties are linked to names of spirits and in some instances, with trademarks: Mezcal: from Southern Mexico, made usually from Agave Espadin. Tequila: from Central Mexico, Agave Tequilana (or Blue Agave). Bacanora: From Western Mexico, Agave Tequilana, among others. Sotol: From Northern Mexico, Agave Silvestre. Cocuy: From Venezuela, Agave Cocuy. South African Tequila: From South Africa, Agave Americana
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Raizilla: From Western Mexico, a blend of various wild agave plants. Super-Jalisco: From Jalisco, Mexico, the best agave growing terroir, Agave Tequilana (or Blue Agave). DISTILLATION Sugar is transformed by yeast into alcohol, resulting in a wine or beer. Pulque is the name given to the ‘wine’ from fermented agave juice. Such an alcoholic beverage can be taken a step further to a spirit – technically and simply, by a separation and concentration of the alcohol contained in the fermented juice. This process is done through distillation, where the fermented juice is heated to 98 degrees celsius, the evaporation point for alcohol. Alcohol vapours are collected and condensed back to liquid, leaving the water behind. Distillation can be done via two methods. Column distillation while it is fast and efficient tends to lose some aromas. Alambique distillation preserves aromas and separates head and tails but it is a slower process. Quality spirits aim to capture the aroma of the plant from which they are made, and therefore high quality agave spirits are alambique distilled. BLENDED AND PURE AGAVE SPIRITS There are three methods of blending. The cold blend blends two different types of finished alcohol together. The warm blend mixes the
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° FEATURE ° juice from one plant with the juice from another and ferments them together while geisting involves oaking an expensive plant in cheap alcohol for a prolonged period to give the cheap alcohol aromas from the expensive plant. Most commercial tequilas need to be blended. Simply known as ‘Tequila’, the law states this spirit must be made as a warm blend of Blue Agave juice and molasses (or increasingly, corn syrup) fermented together. The taste difference between these spirits – at present – is due to regional differences in distillation and fermentation technology. The future and international scale of agave spirits is unlimited because the agave is one of the few industrial crops that does not require irrigation and is thus ideally suited for cultivation in most hot, semi-desert environments throughout the world.
THE LUXURY OF TEQUILA We cannot get very far in the world of tequila without mentioning the illustrious pursuits of Don Julio, both the man and the brand. From it’s beginning in 1942, Don Julio remains Mexico’s most popular luxury tequila today. Don Julio González-Frausto Estrada began distilling tequila at the age of 17 and opened his first distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico. It is noted that Don Julio spent nearly forty years perfecting the craft and his “Tequila Reserva de Don Julio” reflected the pride and passion that he had for it. As more people learned of its high quality and smooth flavour, Tequila Don Julio, as we know it today, was born. Prior to this, tequila had been considered a “farmers” drink. Nobody would pay more than USD$30 for a bottle of well-made tequila. Don Julio was a tequila game changer.
THE BENEFITS OF AGEING There are three purposes for ageing; to make the product smoother and softer through a natural process of oxygenation (naturally slow evaporation through the pores of wood barrel), to pervade the product naturally with a wood flavour and to imbue the product with an element of natural caramel sweetness, as certain types of wood contain wood sugar which is transformed into natural wood caramel by toasting the barrels on the inside (sugar + heat = caramel). Price sensitive spirits are ‘aged’ after distillation by means of “fast track” injection of oxygen and the addition of “tea bags” which contain oak chips and caramel colouring. High quality agave spirits are naturally aged. These agave spirits are identified on the label as Anejo; low quality “brown”.
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Learn to
SIP IT
WORDS ° Hannah Waters
Y
es it goes against your more common ritual for tequila but it’s worth it.
Not dissimilar from a fine wine or whisky, neat Tequila is a beautiful expression of agave, the distillers’ art and the region from which it came. It was made to be appreciated, the key to which is serve and dealers choice. Skip the Mixto, stick to 100% agave. Serve it up in a nosing glass or a wine glass will suffice and; to go back to whisky, stick to something fruit or caramel forward. Set yourself up for success. After lengthy agave abstinence, I was tentatively reintroduced to Tequila and it was game changing. Served neat, Don Julio Blanco was a bouquet of grapefruit, guava and pepper and a massive improvement on the Mixto I’d had before. I’ve been converting skeptics ever since. With around 500 years of history there’s bound to be a few things you can get excited about. Its North Americas first distilled drink; using indigenous ingredients, and the first commercially produced alcohol. The standards and regulations enforced by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila are stated to be more strongly controlled than Cognac and I recently read agave based spirits are the Paleo friendly option when out at night, for those more concerned with their waistline. So read up, or seat up at your favorite bar and if you’re still struggling and there’s no enlightenment. Hit me up and I’ll happily show you the way.
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° DRINK °
Cocktail Club
Sweet Heat Ingredients • 50ml Tequila • 20ml Licor 43 • 20ml Lime juice • 10ml Sugar syrup • De-seeded Jalapeno • Pepper Method Muddle & Shake Glass Rocks Ice Crushed Garnish Chilli Lime wedge
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High Spice Margarita Ingredients • 50ml Tequila • 20ml Lemon juice • 10ml Sugar syrup • 10ml Honey syrup • 10ml Egg white Method Double Shake Glass Cocktail Ice n/a Garnish Nutmeg dust Cinnamon dust Angostura drip
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Apple Mentha Ingredients • 50ml Tequila • 20ml Lemon juice • 10ml Agave syrup • 40ml Apple juice • 4 to 8 Mint leaves • 40ml Ginger beer Method Shake & Top Glass Highball Ice Cubed Ice Garnish 2 x Mint sprig Apple fan
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Paloma Ingredients • 50ml Tequila • 15ml Lime juice • 90ml “Ting” or sparkling • Grapefruit juice Method Build Glass Highball Ice Cubed Ice Garnish Sea-salt Rim Lime Wedge
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El Diablo No.2 Ingredients • 40ml Tequila • 20ml Lime juice • 10ml Ginger syrup • 10ml Crème de Cassis • 2 halves Orange wheel • Ginger beer Method Muddle, Shake & Top Glass Highball Ice Cubed Ice Garnish 1/2 Orange wheel Lime wedge
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° PROFILE °
Good The
P
Boss
atrón (Spanish for “the good boss”) is the brainchild of two entrepreneurs, John Paul DeJoria and Martin Crowley, whose love of tequila and desire to create the best tequila in the world led them to the Highlands of Jalisco, Mexico.
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It’s no accident that people recognize Patrón as the world’s highest-quality ultra-premium tequila. Every step in producing this fine spirit – from harvesting the Weber Blue agave in the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico, to the centuries- old distillation process, to the individual labeling, packaging, and inspection of each bottle – is done with the careful precision and care that can be accomplished only by hand. It starts with the agave. Patrón’s characteristic smoothness and layers of flavor stem from using the finest, highest-quality Weber Blue agave that grows in the rich volcanic soils in the hillsides of this region. These agave plants, which take an average of eight years to mature and develop the right sugar levels needed to produce Patrón, are hand cultivated in the fields by skilled workers called “jimadors” and then transported to Patrón’s distillery, Hacienda del Patrón, in the small town of Atotonilco. After arriving at the distillery, the hearts of the agave plant, called piñas, are loaded by hand into small masonry ovens. This time-honored method of cooking agave (a process not found in most modern industrial tequila distilleries) slow-roasts small batches for 79 hours. When the sweet, rich agave emerges from the ovens it is macerated, fermented and distilled using two uniquely separate processes, the centuriesold tahona process and the more modern roller mill process, which both produce distinctive tequilas that are ultimately blended together to create Patrón. In the tahona process, a large volcanic stone wheel slowly crushes the shredded cooked agave, which is then placed (agave juice and agave fiber both) into pine wood casks for fermentation. Hand-made copper pot stills then take over the next step, distillation. In this process, the fermented “mosto” is distilled once with the agave fiber, then distilled again without, before it is
fine filtered and balanced to produce the final tequila. Concurrently on the other side of the distillery, cooked agave in the roller mill process is shredded and the agave juice is placed in pine wood casks for fermentation (without the agave fibers). Like the tahona process, the next step after fermentation is double distillation in copper pot stills, but again without the agave fiber. The two finished tequilas – from the tahona side and the roller mill side – are then carefully blended together to create the final product, Patrón tequila. Every batch of this fine spirit is personally tasted and approved by Patrón’s master distiller, Francisco Alcaraz, who developed this unique and meticulous recipe and process. “Our passion for excellence, quality and perfection guides everything we do. Though Patrón has grown, our careful, time-consuming process has never changed,” says Alcaraz. “Instead of building bigger stone ovens, or bigger fermenters and pot stills, we’ve actually replicated the original small batch process many times over, essentially creating a dozen little distilleries under our one roof. That’s how we’ve been able to maintain our consistent high quality.” Patrón’s careful attention to detail and high level of craftsmanship carries through into the bottling and packaging room as well. Over 60 hands touch and inspect each bottle as it moves from person to person, each labeling, numbering, and wrapping the bottles. A piece of art unto themselves, bottles with even the slightest imperfection are taken off the production line immediately. Each bottle is then hand-polished, and a ribbon is hand-tied around the neck. Every drop in every bottle of Patrón sold around the world is produced and packaged in this scenic village in Mexico.
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° PROFILE °
The Patrón portfolio includes: Gran Patrón Burdeos (80 proof) Limited-production Gran Patrón Burdeos starts with hand selecting the most exceptional agave plants from the harvest. After distillation, this añejo tequila is aged for a minimum of 12 months. It is then distilled again before it is racked in vintage Bordeaux barrels, adding the distinctive flavors of vanilla, raisins and dried fruit found in the finest Bordeaux wine. Gran Patrón Burdeos is beautifully packaged in a crystal bottle placed inside a handsome rounded display case that accentuates the dark color of the añejo tequila. Gran Patrón Piedra (80 proof) This extraordinary limited-production extra añejo tequila is crafted entirely from the tahona process, and then meticulously aged for more than three years in new American and French oak barrels for a deep mahogany color and sweet, subtle aroma of fruit, fresh mushroom, light citrus, and toasted French oak. The distinctive Gran Patrón Piedra bottle, which was inspired by the tahona stone, is numbered and packaged in an elegant box that converts into a beautiful display case. Gran Patrón Platinum (80 proof) Like Gran Patrón Burdeos, Gran Patrón Platinum starts with the finest agave from the harvest, meticulously removing any leftover sprouts to eliminate any bitterness before baking. This ultra-smooth silver tequila is triple distilled, aged for a limited time, and then blended to create the finest sipping tequila in the world. The Gran Patrón Platinum etched crystal bottle comes in an elegant black presentation case. Patrón Silver (80 proof) Patrón Silver is a crystal clear, pure ultrapremium tequila. This soft and light tequila is characterized by a fresh, smooth taste, without the flavor of oak. Delicious neat or on the rocks, or in a margarita, Patrón Silver is also highly versatile, making it the perfect spirit for any number of mixed cocktails. Patrón Añejo (80 proof) Patrón Añejo is a delicate blend of uniquely aged tequilas, all aged in small white oak barrels for a minimum of 12 months. Similar to winemaking, each vintage of Patrón Añejo is carefully blended to produce a smooth and distinctive-tasting tequila.
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“Patrón brought back the culture of sipping tequila, the blanco revived the dying culture of drinks like the sangrita and put tequila on the world stage not as a shooter but as a refined tipple.”
MARK GRAHAM THOMAS (AKA BATMAN) B-Bar at Bacchanalia Singapore
“The world of modern tequila of blended to pure or even aged & unaged have change the mindset of new age generation. The style being started by patron has gone beyond the boundaries of traditional to meet certain experience to a new level. Each individual varieties caters to individual palates. From blanco to citronge makes the world as one, references to music cultures.”
MOHAMMAD IRWIN Potato Head Folk Singapore
Patrón Reposado (80 proof) Aged in oak barrels for at least two months, Patrón Reposado is blended to combine the fresh clean taste of Patrón Silver with a hint of the oak flavor found in Patrón Añejo. Excellent as a sipping tequila, Patrón Reposado is also a key ingredient in an ultra- premium margarita or most any cocktail. Patrón XO Cafe (70 proof) Patrón XO Cafe is an extraordinary blend of ultrapremium tequila and the pure, natural essence of fine coffee. The taste is dry, not sweet as with most low-proof coffee liqueurs. Patrón XO Cafe is excellent for sipping, as a cocktail ingredient or as a unique and delicious dessert topping. Patrón XO Cafe Dark Cocoa (60 proof) Patrón XO Cafe Dark Cocoa combines high-quality Patrón Silver tequila with the extraordinary essence of fine coffee and Criollo chocolate from Mexico to create a unique and enjoyable ultra-premium coffee liqueur. Patrón XO Cafe Dark Cocoa marries the smooth, dry taste of Patrón XO Cafe with the decadence of rich chocolate and light tequila. Patrón Citrónge (80 proof) Patrón Citrónge is a premium reserve, extra fine orange liqueur. With no artificial flavors or chemical enhancers, Patrón Citrónge is excellent enjoyed straight, in a cocktail or a gourmet cooking recipe. Also, together with Patrón tequila, it’s the perfect ingredient for an authentic margarita.
The Hacienda The Hacienda was designed and built from the ground up, inspired by Mexican, Spanish, French and Italian design and architecture. With similar care and attention to detail that goes into producing Patrón tequila, sixteen craftsmen hand carved local stones, called Cantera, piece by piece for nine months to create the unique arches of the corridors and foyers. Every door and window is handcrafted, and the hallways, ceilings and walls are designed to match the style of the 1700s. In all, 1.5 million solid bricks were used to construct the Hacienda’s walls and arches.
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° FEATURE °
Ketel One believes in
Doing One Thing Well T
here’s nothing more exciting to the Nolet Family than talking to someone who shares this passion and dedication for Ketel One Vodka. That’s why they consider the bartenders they speak to as part of their family. It takes a certain skill, creativity and flare to be a top bartender. The Nolet Family can produce the vodka, but the bartenders are the experts behind the bar.
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There aren’t many brands who can look back over the past 300 years, put their hand on their hearts and say, ‘our family did this’, but then we’re not like other brands, we’re Ketel One Vodka. To us our family is everything; it makes us who we are today and as we’ve grown, luckily for us, so has our family, which now includes talented bartenders from across the world.
BOB NOLET
11th Generation of Nolet Distillers, Ketel One Vodka
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° FEATURE ° Like his father in the 1980s, Bob Nolet enjoys travelling from country to country, city to city and bar to bar meeting new bartenders and introducing them to the Ketel One Vodka liquid one-by-one. A testament to this is Bob’s recent trip to Asia, where he met some of the regions most dedicated and passionate bartenders over a Ketel One Vodka on the rocks, and was impressed by the dynamic cocktail culture. Of course, however, the best way to experience Ketel One Vodka, is to visit the Nolet Distillery in person. While Schiedam may not be at the top of your travel bucket list, it’ll be a trip you won’t forget as a bartender. As Bob adds: “I know I’m biased, but I really believe the most exciting way to discover our family heritage and the Ketel One Vodka story is to come and visit us and see the Nolet Distillery for yourself. Our doors are always open.” At the distillery, you will be able to discover for yourself where the Ketel One Vodka story began and see the original coal-fired “Distilleerketel #1,” or Pot Still
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Number 1, after which Ketel One vodka is named. No tour of the Distillery would be complete without the famous Ketel One Vodka Taste Test; first used (and still used today) to introduce bartenders to Ketel One’s premium taste qualities. It’s this dedication and pride that led to a member of the family individually approving each production run of Ketel One Vodka. A process which still happens today. Ketel One Vodka hosts an event every year on King’s Day, the biggest national event in Holland. Everything and everyone turns orange and celebrates on this day. This year’s event was such a success as guests including bartenders from Asia uncovered the magic of Amsterdam over one of the most celebrated weekends in the calendar year. The group discovered the Ketel One Vodka story through an immersive tour of the distillery in Schiedam, an exclusive tour of the best bars in Amsterdam and a King’s Day boat party. In 2015, we would like to repeat the success of this year’s event and once again, invite our bartender friends from Asia to join us in April.
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If bartenders are unable to visit the Nolet Distillery for themselves, Bob tries to bring some of the magic directly to bartenders as part of the Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender of the Year competition to showcase the family’s ongoing commitment and support to nurturing the world’s best bartenders. The competition is the industry’s largest, most credible investment in the luxury on trade, it discovers the next generation of bartending talent who set the latest mixology trends and bring these to the best bars worldwide. At the core is an outstanding, global training programme and internationally recognised platform that elevates the craft of the bartender and builds careers in the industry. Since the competition’s launch, over 15,000 bartenders have been inspired and educated in the craft of mixology using the finest spirits in the Diageo Reserve collection. Last year’s competition was a massive success with David Rios from Spain being named as Bartender of the Year in his home country where the Finals took place. Now the Finals for the 2014 competition are just around the corner, taking place in the UK from 28 July to 1 August 2014. At Ketel One Vodka, we know that great endeavours take time, care and dedication. Whether you’re a bartender crafting quality cocktails at Diageo Reserve World Class, a painter perfecting the moon’s reflection shining down on a still lake, an athlete preparing yourself on the starting line; Ketel One believes in doing one thing well, because remarkable things are created when people just do what they love.
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° VISIT °
Vijay’s Bar Tour
Down Under
S
ingapore bartender Vijay Mudaliar, chats with Drinks World Asia on his recent trip to Australia and the Sydney and Melbourne bar scene.
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Drinks World Asia: You recently went to Australia and spent time in Melbourne and Sydney. Tell us about the bar scene in Melbourne? VIJAY MUDALIAR: Melbourne is a city full of art and culture and cool little hipster laneways where you can find fantastic coffee! The bar scene most definitely lives up to its reputation. Within an hour of landing, I found myself in Fitzroy, exploring some fantastic bars. My bar run for the first night consisted of The Black Pearl which is a comfortable bar serving fantastic drinks and great hospitality. Next stop was The Everleigh, a modern speakeasy with attention to detail such as the ice, glass temperature, and coasters. It was a pleasure to watch the bartenders working with precision but still managing to slip in some small talk. My next destination was Los Barbudos, a rum haven with a great personality to back it up. A perfect venue to chill out and meet interesting people, you should try their take on a Dark and Stormy! The next logical step after rum is…. more rum! The Rum Diary is where you can find fabulous snacks served on a cozy bar counter. The Bartenders who work there were extremely friendly which adds to its ambience. By this time I was pretty much staggering. It was either back to the hotel or to the Pearl for a cheeky last one. Obviously the Pearl won! The next night I explored the bars in the CBD. Eau Di Vie Melbourne is a snazzy bar with a carefully curated cocktail menu, ranging from New Orleans themed drinks to Hollywood Tiki styled drinks. Bar Americano was located close by and is a well-hidden gem. There’s something about the walk up to this bar that feels like you’re navigating through an artisanal Italian film of sorts. There are no seats in this 10 man accommodating bar, my advice is to choose a classic that changes every week.
DWA: And what is your opinion on the bar scene in Sydney? VM: Sydney’s bar scene is on top of its game especially now that World Class Winner Tim Philips has opened Bulletin Place. I particularly enjoyed The Baxter Inn with its array of whisky selections, and fun little hideouts, such as the Mojo Record Bar, Frankie’s, and Lobo Plantation which add to the excitement. The bars in Sydney are not shy about making an impact. From their welldesigned interiors to crafty and witty cocktails served, Sydney is definitely a city to watch out for in the coming year. The Bulletin Place in Sydney has definitely got things down pat. The small little palette cleansers given upon arrival go a long way and combined with a simple cocktail menu with fresh ingredients which are changed daily, this small comfy bar definitely packs a punch! The Lobo Plantation has got Tiki swagger and Tiki flair combined with a friendly staff and a funky Caribbean themed design, lots of rum will be ensued! Mojo Record Bar is a vinyl shop come bar and makes a guaranteed good night out with friends. Great tunes in the background, clean crisp cocktails and vinyl splattered all over the roof. The bar grub is top notch, order the hotdogs they are absolutely to die for! Neighborhood Bar which is located at Bondi lives up to its name as a well presented neighborhood bar. On a Sunday night when most of the bars in Sydney were closed, it was good to relax and enjoy one of Sydney’s most picturesque views with good drinks, a great selection of wine, really tasty food in a bar with no air of pretentiousness. People looked casual and relaxed and enjoyed hanging out in their local bar. It was a good and satisfying way to round out my tour.
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° VISIT ° DWA: There is always the ongoing battle between Sydney and Melbourne, in your opinion who would you say has the better bar scene and why? VM: I wouldn’t say that one location has a better bar scene compared to the other... Sydney has an upbeat vibe going on and its bars are really pushing to make an impact. It wouldn’t be surprising to see more Sydney bars being internationally recognized and claiming more international awards. If you’re looking to check out a cool basement bar or an upbeat and edgy night out, Sydney is the way to go. Melbourne, on the other hand, is not pushing for that type of recognition. When you’re in Melbourne there doesn’t need to be an ‘occasion’ to visit a cocktail bar, it’s just an everyday way of socializing and enjoyment. It’s all about the balance of good hospitality, good cocktails and a great night out! DWA: Out of all the bars you visited in your time in Australia, what would be the top three bars you would recommend for Asian bartenders to visit? VM: The Black Pearl The Black Pearl is most definitely one of my favourite bars in the world, its hospitality is second to none. It’s more than just making and serving cocktails at this bar, it’s about making the patrons feel at home. It’s where they know that they can order a beer or share a few shots and know that they will not be judged.
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Lobo Plantation It’s great to see a lot that a lot of rum bars are popping up everywhere .It’s good to know that what was once only known to be the contents of a pirate’s flask, is becoming a popular drink and gaining more recognition. I would love to see an Asian take on Tiki bars in the near future. Bar Americano As a Bartender I particularly enjoyed visiting Bar Americano and was impressed by the refreshing new concept. For the lack of a better phrase, I’m going to call it a Cocktail Brothel, where there is no fluff or fuss and no pretentiousness. You can simply go in, get your cocktail fix and leave when you’re ready. A perfect venue for cocktail junkies like me! DWA: In which bar did you find your favorite cocktail and who made it? VM: As I have too many favorites, I am simply going to list a few: Something bitter by Samuel Ng of the Black Pearl This was the first drink I consumed upon my arrival, and as the weather in Melbourne was slightly chilly, I requested something bitter and boozy. Samuel Ng knew exactly how to satisfy my request with a mixture of Salers (a gentian liqueur), some Curacao, bitters, and Cynar. I’m always a fan of reverse proportion cocktails, so this was an impressive way to start. Pear Cobbler at Bulletin Place either by Thor Berguist or Tim Philips The great thing about Bulletin Place is that everything looks simple from the décor to the drinks menu but upon close inspection you can witness
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that there is a lot of attention to detail. Firstly the palette cleansers were a fantastic way to commence the session before I moved on to the drinks. Pear, orange and a blend of sherries sounds simple enough, and I wasn’t expecting to be blown away. But mixed with good crushed ice, instead of the usual shaved ice and uber chilled glassware, thrown in with great conversation, I was impressed. Aviation by Hayden Lambert of Bar Americano Watching Hayden superbly serve, manage and take control of a one man bar is an experience and a skill that I will remember for a long time. He moves quickly and smoothly behind the bar as everything is set up to be within arm’s reach. I ordered a classic Aviation which I’m not a big fan of but to his credit it was made very well and I was impressed. DWA: Would you recommend your fellow bartenders in Asia to pay a visit ‘down under’ to experience the Australian Bar Culture? VM: Asia is definitely the place to be, it is impressive to see the pace at which we are moving. With both foreign and local talents being on par with each other, you have the advantage of seeing some mind blowing flavour profiles being experimented with. With Japanese bartending having a huge influence in Asia, you will
notice a lot of techniques being well executed. In terms of being edgy and forward thinking, Asia is definitely on a roll and exceeding in these areas. What impressed me the most about the bar culture in Australia was its personable manner and feeling of comfort and relaxation you received from the staff and the environment. From walking into the bar to the time you leave, you always feel welcomed, guided and looked after. Asia could definitely learn a thing or two from this experience especially as we are sometimes so focused with pushing forward on techniques and procedures that sometimes it gets slightly intimidating for our guests who just want to enjoy and relax in this environment. DWA: You have mentioned that you will be commencing your own consulting business in the near future; can you tell us a little about this? VM: Myself and a very good friend developed an App about a year ago. As it was becoming recognized, we were funded half a million dollars. As we are growing and developing it has become necessary that I need to dedicate more hours to its progress. Consulting is the most efficient and best way that I can still be involved with the industry. However, my first priority will always be bartending, and it won’t be long till you see me behind the stick!
The Bar Scene
in Sydney and Melbourne Bar Americano Bar Americano was opened by Matthew Bax in mid-2011 as homage to the Golden Age of drinking, the time of the “American Bar”. The drinks of the “American Bar” are the USA’s greatest cultural export. The concept was born out of foreign demand; well-heeled Europeans discovered these liquid delights in the Jazz cities of Chicago and New York. They (along with the thirsty Yanks absconding the drought of Prohibition) cried out for these innovative concoctions back in Europe. The “American Bar” is the perfect balance of American “get-upn-go!” and refined European service etiquette. ESPRESSO We take our coffee as seriously as any of our cocktails. We are proud to have simply the finest espresso machine ever created the ‘Slayer’. We work closely with our partners at Coffee Supreme to bring justice to this marvel of modern engineering.
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Bulletin Place Bulletin Place was opened in December 2012 by three friends from Melbourne Adi Ruiz, Rob Sloan and Tim Philips. The concept was simple: bring Melbourne’s professional, casual, world class cocktail culture to Sydney’s Circular Quay. Bulletin Place is a 45-seat cocktail bar, that focuses on season inspired drinks, in the form a five-drink menu that changes daily, depending on what it acquired at the daily market. The cocktails change daily, as does the small, but well curated wine list, meanwhile the two beer offering changes weekly. This approach to a small, ever-changing offering allows Bulletin Place to casually glide through the seasons and is able to react to eclectic produce offerings - like fig, gooseberry, and nectarine - with ease. After 18 months, Bulletin Place is regarded as one the national benchmarks in cocktail culture in a country that has emerged as a world leader in the field.
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The Rum Diary The Rum Diary breathes a new sense of fun into the Brunswick Street bar scene, and we’ve got enough Rum to sink a pirate ship, with over 125 available. Here at our cozy little bar we create excitement around rum, bringing together the best people, atmosphere and experience in which to share it. We’re serving up the best of rum based cocktails using the finest products from around the world, including a rotating Cocktail On Tap made in house by our talented crew. And if you’re not a rum fan don’t dismay, we’ve a wide selection and our bar staff will provide you with a beverage to suit your tastes and style.
Lobo Plantation
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° VISIT °
From the Past,
GOOD TIMES
TO COME
G
WORDS & PHOTOS ° Eric Stephenson
rowing up in the United States during the Cold War, my first impressions of Cuba were shaped by public response to the countless human rights violations, political executions, and overall lack of personal freedoms experienced by the Cuban people in the decades following Fidel Castro’s Revolution of 1959. Before the Revolution, Cuba had thrived as cultural hub in the Western Hemisphere, contributing an extraordinary amount of art, music, and cocktail heritage. In the decades since, the nation has remained in a figurative time capsule, seemingly shut off from the outside world as their single party Communist government dictates nearly all aspects of their daily life. As an American citizen, a Cuban excursion is a near impossibility, stemming from a long-standing tourism ban enacted by the United States. However, as a Hong Kong resident, I was able to travel there as a competitor, to take part in the 10th Havana Club Grand Prix. I set out for Havana with my girlfriend, a native Spanish speaker, confident that I’d return to Hong Kong victorious. The journey took 30 hours, from Hong Kong to Paris to Havana, and we arrived with the last of the competitors on a hazy Sunday evening. Our hotel, the Meliá Cohiba, was situated in the Vedado District in the northern part of Havana, near the sea. The hotel had seen several curious travellers in her 20 year history, but perhaps none so diverse as the 150 international barmen, ambassadors, and media in town for the competition. Scarcely leaving the hotel those first four days, we sat assembled in conference halls as presentations covering Cuban life, music, and, of course, cocktail culture were hosted by leaders of our industry, both Cuban and international alike. Evenings entailed banquet dinners, where we sat in smaller groups, muttering trade talk
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in between bites of beans, rice and roasted meats. Nightly, we were exposed to various cultural offerings, each steeped in Golden Age romance, all fuelled by a steady flow of cocktails – decadent Presidentes, sweetly-tart Mary Pickfords, and Cuba Libres, to name a few of the classics on showcase. Outings were organized to two of Havana’s most famous bars, where we delightedly downed daiquiris and earnestly imbibed mojitos, revelling in the history around us. The storied bars, located alike in Old Havana, worked diligently to maintain their classic charm, but it was after an evening spent drinking on their stools, when I began to notice a recurring theme in our outings: not a single Cuban to share a drink with. Sadly, I learned, the romantic ideals of the Golden Age of Cuban Cocktails are no longer an accurate portrayal of Cuban drinking
culture. Gone are the days of locals mingling with traveling writers, artists, and barmen over cocktails. In a nation with few luxuries, these establishments operate solely for tourists, like a Disneyland for foreign booze-hounds armed with tourist currency. We sat there, surrounded by bartenders and writers, chefs and media from all over, drinking in some of Havana’s most legendary bars, yet we couldn’t faintly feel the pulse the city or her people. It wasn’t until our fifth day in Havana when my girlfriend and I, free from agenda and commitment, were finally able to emerge ourselves in the Cuban vibe. Seeking a more authentic experience, we set out quietly in the morning, telling no one. Our destination was Santa Maria, a town with reportedly fantastic beaches and cheap seafood, 30 km outside of Havana. Enlisting the services of a driver
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who introduced himself as Manuel, we negotiated a price and jumped into the back of his 1953 Chevrolet Bel Air Convertible. The antique car pulled away from the Meliá Cohiba, leaving plumes of black smoke behind as we headed east down the Malecon, a stretch of highway that mirrors the Bay of Havana. The wind cooled our sunbaked bodies and filled our nostrils with the smell of gasoline as we cruised along, surrounded by a parade of classic American automobiles; a moving motorcade museum in the morning sun. It was though we’d be transported to 1950’s Cuba and Manuel was our tour guide, pointing out places of interest as he sped along, radio blaring Cuban rhumba. We passed Spanish colonial forts, local markets, collapsed buildings, and abandoned shipping docks before entering a dark, winding tunnel. Upon emerging we kept east, cruising away from Havana, passing incomplete sports arenas, crowded bus stops, and miles of dense jungle along the way to Santa Maria. A half hour later, our faces red and sweating, Manuel exited the highway and drove down a series of quiet, palm tree lined streets before finally parking the car near a narrow wooden bridge, next to a sign that pointed to the beach. He waited with the car as a second man showed us across the bridge and along the edge of the sea, to some empty seats with an umbrella. An employee of a ramshackle beach bar and grill, the man took our drink order and returned with two small mojitos in plastic cups. The cocktails were what you’d expect from a bar on the beach; sugary and weak, but nothing a few splashes of our own rum couldn’t save. What was surprising was the poor quality of the mint leaves, which, by this point, had become the norm in Cuba. Known locally as Yerba Buena, or good herb, the small, sparsely leafed weeds are all that Cuba has to produce one of their most storied cocktails. Somehow, they manage to do it well. We drank our mojitos and smoked cigars, occasionally swimming in the turquoise sea to cool off. A man in tattered clothing sat next to us, observing our faces with tired eyes and sketching what he saw. His finished drawing was exchanged for my shirt, which he requested, in lieu of coin. Now short a shirt, but feeling soundly humanistic with a satisfactory rum buzz, we gathered our remaining belongings and found Manuel to begin the drive back to Havana. Our next stop was Ferias de San José, a market specializing in Cuban art, handcrafted goods, and shirts. We strolled casually and slowly, perusing the market, stopping to talk with the merchants and play with the children hanging around their parents’ shops. Occasionally we paused to buy freshly cracked coconuts, which we filled with rum. This, we learned, was a an old slave concoction, who when working the sugar cane fields would combine aguardiente, in this case distilled sugar cane juice, with fresh coconut water to relieve the pains of the day. Two hours quickly passed, and we were running out of cash, so we left, our bags now considerably more robust. We hadn’t made it across the street before being approached by a Cuban man with a large belly and larger eyes. He
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° VISIT °
called himself Santiago, and we exchanged pleasantries for a few minutes before starting into the heart of the city, the three of us, to the gritty streets of Central Havana. Here, a more authentic Cuban lifestyle was on display: barefoot children played games in the streets, chased by wild dogs, and women, adorned in bright garments, smoked fat cigars and smiled through missing teeth. Men collaborated to repair broken wagon wheels and haul sacks of produce into the numerous nearby markets. Some buildings were without power and others hadn’t undergone maintenance in decades, their walls reduced to pile of stones on the ground. Several streets were completely destroyed, remnants of abandoned construction projects. We continued to walk and talk with Santiago, eventually arriving at a building, which he described as his. He invited us up for cigars and we obliged. The old flat was musty and grey and the walls were deeply stained from humidity and smoke. The ceiling was full of holes, with buckets placed underneath to collect water from the rainstorm that had eased into town that afternoon. There was a large common room with two doors that opened onto a terrace, which was lined with dying plants. From the terrace we could see the capital building on the horizon, and down below the streets stretched out, bustling at every intersection. Santiago left us alone for a few minutes and returned with two glasses and a box. The glasses contained rum and local honey with a splash of water, another old Cuban preparation. The box harbored unimaginably fresh, deeply fragrant cigars, which we identified as Cohiba, except of superior quality to those at the shops in our hotel. Once supplied solely to high-level
officials of the Communist Party in Cuba, Cohiba Cigars had been made available to the public for just over 30 years. Santiago’s cigars were a sort of allowance, given by the Cuban Government as a way to provide, with material goods, what couldn’t be provided financially. He offered them to us at $10 CUC for 5 cigars, a virtual steal compared to the international market price. We agreed and made the exchange, lighting one as we said goodbye and made plans to meet again the next day. Back in the Vedado District, our mood changed. We had lost ourselves in the day, enthralled by a transitory glimpse into Cuban culture. We felt strange as we entered the hotel, instantly encompassed by the international coalition of barmen, reporters, and foreign drinkers. We joined the group for dinner and a quick drink before wishing congratulations, shaking hands, and heading off to bed. Waking early the next morning, we checked out of the hotel and hired a taxi straight back to Central Havana. It was raining, but the vibrations were festive in spite of the weather. Damp cigar smoke filled the streets and Cubatón music could be heard above the buzz from passing automobiles and wagon wheels. Walking for hours, alive in the moment, all of our senses were stimulated by a virtual kaleidoscope of new culture. Hungry, we stopped for food at Don Lorenzo, a neighbourhood restaurant and rooftop bar we’d been referred to. Though we later heard viscous stories, accusing the restaurant of gouging tourists with hyper-inflated dining checks, we experienced no such shady proceedings during our visit. The food was excellent, without question the best we’d had all week, and the staff was warm and friendly. The
open air of restaurant was inviting, so we sat for hours, sharing cigars with the staff and watching life unfold on the streets below. It was the barman’s birthday, so we left him with the last of our aged rum on our way out. His reaction to the gesture was timeless; a genuine display of appreciation at being gifted what amounted to liquid-luxury for most Cubans. Back on the streets we found Santiago waiting, just as we’d planned, this time accompanied by his younger brother, Juan. We went to a nearby bar, where the four of us sat discussing Cuban affairs over daiquiris and mojitos. The brothers spoke of a collective optimism, which had gathered momentum in recent years, about the future of Post-Castro Cuba. They conveyed sentiments of hope, centering on renewed relations with the United States, and gushed at what that possibility meant for Cubans. The truth is that Cuba and The United States share a deep bond - a bond that flourished during the first part of the 20th century and exists still today, in spite of the political tension of the past five decades. We would’ve spent hours in that bar, sharing Cuban classics with our new Cuban friends, but it was getting late and we had a flight to catch. We finished our drinks and said goodbye, leaving the brothers with promises to return one day soon. We had arrived in Cuba six days earlier as competitors, full of hope to win the 10th Havana Club Grand Prix. Though I hadn’t won the competition for Hong Kong, I had seen a side of Cuban life that most will not - a Cuba of neighbourly compassion and flourishing optimism. That is the Cuba I plan to return to, not as a representative of Hong Kong, but as a representative of the United States.
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° FEATURE °
One Shift
Just
WORDS ° Mark Thomas
O
n the back of Diageo Reserve World Class, the Just One Shift Initiative has been one of the major initiatives I wanted to introduce to the Singapore bar scene. The charity called Wine to Water is relevant to our industry. It’s the one charity which seeks to embellish the act of giving through the work we do in bars and restaurants. The aim of this charity is to provide clean drinking water to third world countries that are in desperate need for this basic element to sustain life. Wine to Water will involve themselves in every aspect of the process of providing water, from establishing wells, to filtration, piping and plumbing to most importantly improved sanitation.
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I was first clued onto this program by Kevin Law Smith of East Imperial. After undertaking my personal research into the organization, I was impressed with the ethos and commitment of this charity. With such well known and reputable names such as Gary Regan forwarding the movement in many countries across the world, the thought began to develop in my mind that this was something I wanted to pursue and introduce in Asia. As Singapore is leading the forward movement in cocktail culture within Asia, and with so much local talent on its doorstep, I saw an opportunity
to gather the best in the business under the banner of charity. This would not only show how many great bartenders there are in Singapore as seen in the latest edition of Drink World Asia’s Top 25 Bartenders, but an opportunity to help others in a unique way. Over the last few years in my Bartending career, I have grown not only in my skills development and commitment to the industry, but also in my appreciation to what this industry has given to me. As a result, I would like to take the opportunity to give back to this global community something I feel it
would greatly benefit from and will also assist in showcasing Singapore and giving it global recognition. The concept was simple, get the best in the business, sell cocktails and make money for charity. This was the first time that I have ever organized something on this scale and importance and initially it proved quite taxing. I was overwhelmed with such gracious support for this initiative from the Management at Diageo, Proof and Company, Euro Wine Gate and East Imperial. It took about a week in the initial development and early correspondence
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° FEATURE ° with the heads and members of each office who all contributed with a hundred percent response .They generously sponsored 100% of the alcohol as well as modifiers like the beautiful sodas supplied from Kevin. I went ahead and arranged delivery dates and timings. Bartenders were also very gracious in devoting time out from their busy schedules to assist in making drinks for charity. With the inclusion of many recognized establishments such as Din Hassan, Ashvin, Shawn Kishore, Zdenek Kastenek , Tom Hogan and many more, we had a lineup of 10 of the best cocktail bars in Singapore involved. What overwhelmingly astonished me was the number of bartenders who offered assistance
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ranging from preparation to bussing, serving to wiping glassware and bartending. This demonstrated and proved that this event which was organized and run entirely by bartenders, was an example of their simple and humble effort to do our part in helping the less fortunate. My next challenge was to design and create a one shift poster and EDM and with the help of my graphic designer Bernedita, an amazing mock up was approved within a day. From there, I emailed it out to everyone I knew. I posted it on social media and liasoned with the marketing team from each specific bar. I dedicated one sleepless week in leaving no stone unturned to make this event the best it could be. I was
overwhelmed with the response. Two days following the release of our EDM, out initiative went viral especially with the support of bartending guru Gary Regan sharing the update. I received an immense amount of support from various editors of local and international publications who promoted our event in the printed media. This contributed to it being the most talked about event in town for the week of June 4th. The phone rang nonstop with bar reservations for what looked to be a popular and awesome night ahead! Leading up to the event, I received an email from Kevin Law Smith putting me in touch with the people running the Wine to Water Charity. They sent their support and wanted confirmation to promote this event to the Singapore Expat Community and this in turn led to the event being publicized on their Australian forum. It dawned on me that this was a brilliant opportunity where the eyes of the world would be on our little island. I made contact with photographers and DJ’s to help create an even more electric atmosphere that night, fortunately as most of them were my friends and colleagues they wholeheartedly did it pro bono. Janka Husta, photographer for DWA kindly attended and took some brilliant photos of the event. On the actual day of the event, achieving and completing my to do list was going to make this one hectic day, from completing such tasks as shopping for local ingredients first thing in the morning to making calls to ensure everyone’s shift was organized. The day was made even more special with a surprise visit from Joao Balzani from Hong Kong who was in Singapore and offered his assistance. Of course I could not resist and added him to the list of the amazing lineup of local and international bartenders. This only assisted in supporting the notion that our industry is one global community. The preparation for the night began at 3pm when I turned off my phone headed into work and with the help of the staff tirelessly began pressing citrus and prepping for the night and because we were unsure about what numbers to expect we kept prepping .With the assistance of a few bartenders coming in early, we managed to finish prep on time. Before the event started, I ran through the event format and details with the team over dinner. At 6pm we opened the doors to the public with the main event commencing at 8pm. The event was amazing with a fabulous support from guests who came in hungering for delicious tipples. Zdenek Kastenek took the first
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lineup with his drink consisting of brandy, cacao white, a salty pineapple citrus infusion and champagne. The amazing drinks just kept being churned out, with the continuous request from guests wanting two of each drink! Running on adrenalin, serving drinks, taking orders, giving instructions, and all the while seeing the smiles on everyone’s faces, made every effort I had put into the event worthwhile. Throughout the night I kept a close eye on the till, watching the figures increase with every drink sold. It was so busy that the bartenders were hard pressed as the dockets kept flying
in, forcing them to buckle down and churn out drinks like machines. And whilst doing this the bartenders continually entertained guests and kept the atmosphere alive with their hospitality. I was truly and deeply moved by the conviction and hard work put in by these simply amazing men and women. The bar was still overflowing and still pumping at 1am, but unfortunately all good things have to come to an end! With the amazing efforts of the bar staff, we managed to make over SGD6k in one night and one more shift by myself the following day boost the figure beyond 7K. Even
though the bar itself looked like a hurricane had ripped through it by the end of the night, all the staff felt more energized from the satisfaction that as a community and an industry we had made a difference and accomplished what we had set out to do. On a personal level, this was undoubtedly the biggest event I had ever undertaken, organized and run on this scale. Words cannot explain the feeling of immense satisfaction I felt upon its completion, knowing that I was able to do this for those less fortunate and the best feeling was being able to give!
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° MEET °
INTERVIEW WITH
David
Piper GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR, HENDRICK’S GIN
O
n his travels around the globe, artist turned brand ambassador for Hendrick’s Gin, David Piper spoke to Drinks World Asia about his unlikely journey into the role, his passion for Hendrick’s Gin and his recent undertaking of a extraordinary quest to discover new flavours.
BY ° Mark Henderson
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° MEET °
Drinks World Asia: What do you do in your role as Hendrick’s global brand ambassador? David Piper: A large part of my job is travelling the world, spreading the gospel, spreading the message of how we make Hendrick’s. It’s always important to remind people, to let them know that it’s made in a very unique way. There’s no other gin made like us. There are two very different types of still, both very, very small. One of them is 150 years old, while the other one uses a maceration process; the other uses a vapour extraction process. That’s got rose and cucumber, and made in a small room on the west coast of Scotland, at a place called Girvan. Also, to make sure we keep up the Hendrick’s ‘brand of nonsense!’ DWA: From what I have gotten to learn about you and your role, I have become very intrigued. How does your creative outlook shape your work with Hendrick’s? DP: I come from a background as an artist, writer, performer and party organiser. Working
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with Hendrick’s I get to do some incredible projects and a lot of things that I probably want to do anyway, but now I get to do them in the name of a fantastic gin, which I will say I am a huge, huge fan off. I actually gave up making art because I thought it was more interesting to do things in the real world, rather than the art world. You can influence people a lot more; you can play with reality a bit. I think actually, that’s a little bit of what we do at Hendrick’s, we try and twist things upside-down and inside-out and stand them on their heads and make the whole world a little bit topsy-turvy. DWA: I would like to go back to the very beginning and discover how you actually got into the role - is Hendrick’s in your blood? DP: I think it is very funny that I ended up doing this because when I was growing up my father was working for gin, some of the more traditional brands. I was working as an artist, performing and organising parties when Hendrick’s launched in the UK. I ended up being
the master of ceremonies at the little launch party, and somehow from there - I must have become involved in some kind of discussion and I ended up doing a project where I built three nonsense Victorian bicycle contraptions as a project for Hendricks - it was great fun. As the brand grew very slowly, one of the keys to the success of the brand is that it’s always been allowed to grow slowly; there has never been huge money put behind advertising campaigns or anything like that. It has been allowed to grow at the pace at which bartenders are happy to accept it and start playing with the new product. So as the brand slowly grew they kept calling me back for projects. One year we ended up buying a whole Victorian railway carriage and turning it into a collection of curiosities. Eventually as I started working full-time in the United Kingdom for Hendrick’s, for a year and a half as the sort of commander of special operations, the vacancy for global ambassador came up, and I nabbed it.
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‘‘We posed this idea that if it’s still possible in the 21st century to go somewhere incredibly remote and find things that no westerner has ever tasted; new flavours essentially, there’s a kind of promise, and that was our El Dorado.’’
DWA: I was reading about something called ‘ The Botanical Quest’ that you were involved in. Are you able to tell me a little bit about The Botanical Quest? DP: Well there is a chap called Charles Brewer-Carias, who is a Venezuelan explorer and very much the 21st Century embodiment of the spirit of the great Victorian gentleman explorers. He’s got a big bushy white moustache, he’s 75 and he is a lot fitter than I am. He takes great delight in challenging me to pull-up contests and all that kind of thing, and I always lose - he’s an incredible man. He has discovered hundreds of new species of every kind, from fungi to four-legged things to hundred-legged things to plants and trees. He’s known tribes of Indians for forty years or so, discovered huge cave systems and the largest sinkholes in the world, all that sort of stuff. With his help, we posed this idea that if it’s still possible in the 21st century to go somewhere incredibly remote and find things that no Westerner has ever tasted; new flavours essentially, there’s a kind of promise, and that was our El Dorado. We were granted an opportunity to live with a tribe of Indians who took us around various parts of the rainforest and the village; to the base of the mountains one day, up the river one day and down river the next, all over the place, looking for the plants they use and the fruits they use in magic medicine.
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° PROFILE °
A look down
Old Street
Who is Old Street?
DWA Top 25 Bartenders, Peter Christian Kendall and Sam Oliver Jeveons who with a combined age north of seventy, and more years in the industry than the age of many of Asia’s current bartending talent, have re-emerged from their recent management positions across Hong Kong to form Old Street Group - Bar & Brand Specialists. They have begun a new chapter in a twelve-year career in which Sam & Peter worked together across many continents and in many guises. ‘Old Street Group just felt right as a name and a concept for our next challenge’ explains Jeveons. Harking back to the ‘Golden Era’ of London bartending where bars like Che, Lab, Milk & Honey, The Atlantic, The Player, 23 Romilly St, Alphabet, Match EC1 and Sosho were in their prime and changing the London cocktail scene, ‘Old Street’ is a nod of the head to the area in which Sam and Pete first worked together. ‘Match Bar Group (now existing as Rushmore Group) ran the Old Street area’s cocktail scene for many years. It was Match EC1 and the high-antics high-volume Sosho that first saw us working together’ Kendall laughs as he recalls ‘then
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it was Milk & Honey (London) and the awesomely fun Trailer Happiness.’ ‘Running and working in these bars was an awesome period in our lives’ say’s Jeveons. It set their friendship up for collaboration’s that have bought them to Asia and Hong Kong which after seven years they now admit to calling home. You might know of these talents as two thirds of Alconomics Asia, a consultancy service partnering with Gin Luminary and Bartending Guru Angus Winchester.
So why the change? ‘From 2006 – 2010 we ran Alconimcs Asia with Hong Kong as a hub for Asian projects and travel. Peter took up the full time position as Diageo Brand Ambassador in Greater China after completing two years in Taipei opening Barcode Lounge and Club. I was living in Hong Kong and later Taipei as an Asian Regional Ambassador and consultant whilst Angus, after the initial project in Hong Kong in 2006 returned and began a stellar career in the US which he is still enjoying now. With all this separation Alconomics Asia was more a successful invoicing vehicle than a company’ recalls Jeveons. ‘Yeah, it was the opportunity for
us (then Alconomics) to work with Swire Hotels that brought us back in the same country working for the same client as a successful partnership’, Kendall chipped in, ‘Sam opened The Upper House hotels Café Gray restaurant and bar and I later joined to open East Hotel in Tai Koo Shing and The Montpellier & Magdalen Chapter Hotels in England. We were able to combine our forces and assist the hotel group on a larger level than we could have as individuals’ explains Kendall. After more than a year of consulting, as the Global Financial Crisis began to hit Asia and the budgets of brands and bars were drying up both Jeveons and Kendall were invited by Swire to join their respective teams full time. ‘One of my (Jeveons) greatest
achievements was to be a part of the Upper House opening team as we worked hard over 3 years to establish it as a leading boutique hotel. At one point we were ranked #2 in the world by Trip advisor. This was down to polished, honest service looking after the guests needs at every level. This was a great learning curve for me. It was an obvious yes to the question of would I like to stay on, even if it meant putting my consulting life on hold’. Having taken shelter from the financial crunch with a successful hotel career, Sam emerged in 2012 as General Manager of London’s Boujis nightclub in Hong Kong. ‘There is more synergy to this move than people think ‘ laughed Jeveons as he explained his move as a ‘side-step within luxury’ from
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Hotel Bars to nightclubs - set up to cater to the same clientele. ‘My education at Swire was perfect to launch me into opening a high-end members nightclub. I could deliver exactly what the owners wanted – and I did. We opened and ran as the best service orientated club perhaps in Asia. I still love their product and team. We feel the same with Swire, its great to still be respected and to offer services to ex-employers, it keeps the story, relationship and successes evolving. For that we are very grateful. Sam set up Old Street Group in 2013 and was joined by Kendall in February of this year, ‘This venture is going to be two experts, working side by side to help brands and bars realize their potential. We have strength in numbers and experiences and skills that compliment one another’. Kendall adds, ‘We are ready to work and know the regional market is hungry again for international standards of service, creativity and expertise’.
What do you offer different to competitor consultancies? Mixed reactions come over the Old Street duo as Kendall ponders and Sam smiles, but both try and answer at the same time. ‘You first’ offers Kendall as Jeveons was already in full swing. ‘There are loads of awesomely talented guys out here both from the local markets and being flown in from far away, so we are not the only option in town.’ Kendall nods in agreement. ‘But there are two of us which offers an awesome training and event dynamic, we don’t work exclusively for any one brand, we have training modules aimed at owners, managers and director levels as well as years of experience coaching bar-teams, bartenders and service staff. We have the track record of operating profitable and internationally successful venues and we have a great following and bourgeoning bar community as clients
throughout Asia.’ Still nodding Kendall adds ‘but we often tend to approach things from a completely different perspective. Sam is often top line ideas with bottom line success eager to work with venues at management level, whilst I am often the one bringing the fun back into the execution of what we are teaching and leading by example often in the brand and bartender arena. We pitch to all levels of the trade and are trusted in doing so.’ Jeveons has just returned from a London trip to learn training techniques and management
education. Having taught Hong Kong bartenders in 2006 the boys now see some of their early students as managers ‘but who has taught them this job role transition? What skills have they been given to succeed as managers? “Often nothing” says Jeveons who admits to have made management mistakes in his career – ‘but I have invaluably learnt from them and can now offer this expertise to others in a structured and simple way. There are no other current consultants or specialists in the Asian region offering this level of expertise’.
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° PROFILE °
What’s your overview of the HK scene? Kendall… ‘After 7 years experience in one town, we have seen great trends and success in the bar scene. There is an increase in consumer knowledge in industry, professionalism and passion and in all round expectations. Hong Kong has improved tremendously in the past, which is awesome to see. Hong Kong, Taipei and Singapore are leading the Asian charge for bar equality with the West, and are doing a pretty damn good job.’ Jeveons… “There is still a truck-load of issues we can tackle and help with. Service standards are inconsistent throughout bars and restaurants, staff are not staying long in one venue which is a real issue, bar staff in particular are making names for themselves through social media and competitions instead of longevity, meaning there is little teaching or coaching of junior staff to plan for the future. As rents are going up so are drink and food prices but value and customer experiences are not always on par with the price customers are paying. Variances in stock profitability and an inability to understand how operational habits can negatively effect the P&L means margins are tighter than ever for operators, and this can be the simple success or failure of a bar business.” ‘So there is hope and plenty to be proud of, but still a long way to go for most operators and most staff ‘ concludes Kendall striking a diplomatic chord. ‘The issues faced in Hong Kong are not unique and are the same challenges faced in Singapore and across the developed markets of Asia, and that’s where we want to position ourselves’.
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What’s in the pipeline for OSG? We are always looking to find great new and exciting clients and concepts and are constantly on the look out for fellow talent to help us execute these projects. So far we have been lucky to work with some great brands in a very short space of time. Brand friends include Hendricks Gin, Bacardi Rum, Havana Club and Croizet Cognac. We have some large projects under discussion and have found time to have great fun at smaller more fun venues setting records in revenue caps and beverage sales mix. We have recently been opening venues in China, representing brands in Manila and enjoying educational trips in UK and New Zealand. We are working with new ventures and venues arriving into Hong Kong this year and have a real desire to get out into the rest of Asia. Our bread and butter is a) brand activation and education and b) venue and management
training and/or troubleshooting. Beyond this, we are really enjoying the flexibility to open ourselves up to new ideas, adventures and fun things. We are collaborating on two books at present and this has made us realize our want to do one ourselves. We were thinking to do it straight into Mandarin but are not decided yet. The ultimate goal of opening our own venue run and owned by Old Street isn’t too far away either. We are in need of investors, so stay tuned for that one.’ ‘But our business plan for year one is really simple’ Kendall explains as Jeveons gets distracted greeting an old customer of his. ‘We want to help and meet as many clients as possible spreading the word that we are the goto guys for bar and brand initiatives and projects. Year one is all about getting our brand out there’. ‘That’s right’, returns Jeveons…” No one cares how much you know, until they know how much you care’ he says in a typical hospitality one-liner.
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° FEATURE °
Ginza to Espresso Martini
A
s more and more cocktail competitions challenge local bartending talent to get involved and develop their skills it is becoming more and more apparent that Asian based bartenders are delving into the rich history of cocktails, and for that we have a lot to thank them for. Old Street cocktail consultants takes up the challenge for Drinks World Asia by giving us their potted history of cocktails through the era’s; the flavour influencers and a road map outlining who, what, why and when cocktails began their journey. 1880-1920 Era of Precision This is not the birth of cocktails but the era in which cocktails were recorded for the first time. In 1862 the first bar manual was written. Printed, sold and read about, cocktails were reaching a far wider audience than ever before. But for an inventive era in itself, the end of the nineteenth century had a lot going on. This is the dawn of precision, professionalism, of structure, of recipes and quantities. Pioneering bartenders are known as professors, scientists, alchemists and distillers. The classic Japanese Ginza scene is testament to many of this era’s traditions. Rye, rum, brandy and gin-laden drinks are modified with vermouth and curacaos, herbal liquors and bitter tinctures, eggs, fruits and sugars. This era shows a stronger trend for refinement and delicacy than the days of Brandy Crusta (1862), the Sazerac (1860’s) and the
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Manhattan (1874). The East India Cocktail revealed in Harry Craddock’s manual of 1882 is a great example of this. East India Cocktail • 3 ounces brandy • ½ ounce pineapple syrup (Ted Haigh recommends replacing with raspberry syrup) • 1 dash Angostura Bitters • 1 teaspoon orange curacao • 1 teaspoon maraschino Shake and strain into cocktail glass, garnish with a cherry Considered sweet yet powerful, the temperature of the liquid and therefore its craft and production method are imperative to the enjoyment. ‘The Delicious Sour’ published in William Schmidt’s ‘The Flowing Bowl’ (1892) is one of our favourite and is utterly recognisable as a sour by contemporary standards but filled with the fashionable fruit flavours of 120 years past.
Delicious Sour • 2 ounces Applejack • 2 ounces peach brandy • 1 ounce lime juice • 1 egg white • 1 teaspoon bitters Shake firmly and strain into goblet. Splash soda (Vintage Cocktail & Spirits, Ted Haigh, 2004) The Pink Lady and Horses Neck are staples of historical drinks from this era, re-touched by Angostura Bitters. But for creativity consider this era’s emerging trend in mixing spirit types. The ‘Curacao Punch’ first published in Johnson’s ‘New and Improved Bartenders Manual’ of 1882 Curacao Punch • ¼ gill of brandy (Martell) and Jamaican Rum (Bacardi 8 as suggested by Dale deGroff), • ½ gill of orange Curacao • 3 dashes of lemon • 1 tablespoon of sugar
The simple instructions state ‘stir well and serve with all the fruit at your disposal’. Never has so much foundation work been laid for the cocktail in a single era, experimented with for the guest and, most importantly, recorded for the future. In one era we have created order, recorded recipes, written instructions and categorized the past paving the way for future trends. In this same era we have diversified, modified, bastardised and plagiarised taking drinking on its journey from culture to couture.
1920-1940 Era of ‘Reckless Abandon’ The embrace of the ‘cocktail’ prior to the 1920’s gave rise to ‘The Golden Age’ – ironically with the help of Prohibition. Prohibition drove cocktail culture both into the underworld of ‘speakeasy’ bars and away from US shores to the
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holiday destinations of Europe and the Caribbean where it blossomed and found new enthusiasts. The Pisco Sour from the early 1920’s and Cuban favourites such as the Mojito, Daiquiri and Hemmingway Daiquiri all arrived to the popular consciousness during this era. Rums from the Caribbean, tequila from Mexico and pisco from South America all grew in popularity and became the base of this era’s inspiration. In the speak-easys and juke joints of the US swinging jazz was the soundtrack to the night and women were both accepted and welcomed in the multitude of illegal bars. The Angel’s Tit, one of our favourite forgotten classics of the era, perfectly conveys sensuality, femininity, elegance and style that appealed to this new breed of drinker. Angel’s Tit • 1 ½ ounce Maraschino
• 1/2 ounce Fresh Cream Float cream on stirred down Maraschino. Garnish with a cherry Another Old Street favourite from Harry Craddock ‘s Savoy Cocktail Book (1930) is the Satan’s Whiskers (Curled) and is, on paper, a ‘jazzedup’ Bronx Cocktail with the addition of the curacao and bitters. Satan’s Whiskers • ½ ounce Gin • ½ ounce Dry Vermouth • ½ ounce Sweet Vermouth • ½ ounce orange juice • 2 teaspoons Orange Curacao • 1 teaspoon orange bitters Garnish with an orange twist. Champagne became much more widely used during this swinging jazz era – people wanted to join in the party scene, let loose and celebrate. Bartenders can find inspiration in drinks such as The Seelbach Cocktail and the bestloved alternative to the Classic
Champagne Cocktail, The Alfonso. Seelbach • 1 ounce Bourbon • ½ ounce Cointreau • 7 dashes Angostura Bitters • 7 dashes Peychauds Bitters • 5 ounces Champagne Build and stir in Champagne Flute, orange garnish to twist. Alfonso • 1 ounce Dubonnet • 1 sugar cube • 2 dash bitters • 6 ounces Champagne Produce as you would a Classic Champagne Cocktail. However World War II began the decline in popularity of the classic cocktail that had flourished so well at the start – many of the young men and women involved in the production and service of the spirits and cocktails of the Golden Age were drafted into war and sent off to far-flung corners of the globe.
What no-one knew at the time was this will give rise to a new countercocktail-culture.
1940–1960 The Rise of Tiki The death of the cocktail and the rise of conservative post-war values dominate the 1940’s and 50’s. Recent cocktail history is littered with obstacles, taxes, laws and wars. Now was the time to lick wounds, rebuild, and focus on family and community. There was less to celebrate and people had less to celebrate with. Cocktail joints, decadence and swinging saloons seen as the fad of the last generation gave way to drinking at home throughout Europe and the US and the hotel bar was the last bastion of high-end drinking. Ironically, the cocktail was being kept alive in two very different environments. The hotel bar and Tiki bar. The one thing they had in common? Both styles of cocktails and their service were forms of
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° FEATURE ° escapism for the barfly of the time. Tiki culture remains a breath of fresh air to the established cocktail order. The Bahama Mama, Pina Colada, Velvet Voodoo, Mai Tai, Dons Pearl and The Zombie all need to be perfected by a bartender looking to grasp the feel and atmosphere of the 50’s. Let loose with the cocktail umbrellas, hollowed-out pineapples and grassskirted fun! Bahama Mama • 1 ounce Pussers Rum • 1 ounce Bacardi 8 year • 1 ounce Malibu • 1¾ ounce Orange juice • 2¼ ounce Pineapple juice • 2 dash Angostura Bitters. Velvet Voodoo • 4 parts anejo tequila • 2 part orange curacao • 2 part lime juice • 1 part orgeat • 5 parts pineapple juice Shake and strain into ice filled highball. Garnish with lime wedge, mint sprig and pineapple leaf. (Brown Booze, Michael Butt, 2013) Many of us still have an admiration and love of the Tiki era, its drinks and the lifestyle it embraced. Bars such as Hong Kong’s Honi-Honi and London’s Trailer Happiness and Mahiki are testament to the fun and impact Tiki has played in modern cocktail culture. Trailer Happiness’ Rum Punch is a perfect homage to the creativity of the day. Trailer Happiness Rum Punch (Trailer Happiness, 2005) • 1 1/2oz Appleton Extra Rum • 1/3oz Wray & Nephew Overproof Rum • ½ oz lime juice • 2 tsp honey cream • ½ oz passionfruit puree • 2 oz mango juice • 2 oz ginger beer Shaken, hurricane glass, cubed and crushed ice, lime wedge & umbrella garnish
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We also love that drinks like the original Mai Tai from Trader Vic, are still being made today, and a wellmixed version remains a good test of a bartender. Mai Tai (original Trader Vic) • ½ ounce orange curacao • ¼ ounce rock candy syrup • ¼ ounce orgeat • 1 lime • 2 ounces Trader Vic Mai Tai Rum or substitute with 1 ounce Jamaican and 1 ounce Martinique rum (Trader Vic’s Bartender Guide, 1947) Despite the fun of rum and the cheeky of Tiki, the cocktail on the whole really did suffer. Bartending in the contemporary ‘classical’ sense had hit its hiatus in the Golden Age. The bartender had become less the aristocratic interloper and more the purveyor of fun-times and the antithesis to the established cocktail order.
1960-1990 Era of Disco, Rise of The Liqueur From the 1960’s the party and cocktail scene changed immeasurably. Hard drugs arrived as part of regular nightlife, the modern night-club was born in the 70’s with clubs like New Yorks Studio 54 pioneering Disco and the Glitter Party. The emphasis changed from what you were drinking to where and with whom. This made the bartender less important as part of the ‘mix’ of a good establishment. The job became more transient and less of a profession. Standards dropped. This was the period of opening the cocktail scene to the masses. Cocktail bars were available for all and accessible to every walk of life. All ‘mixed drinks’ fell under one banner; the word ‘cocktail’. The structured classification of mixed drinks pioneered by the early trailblazers of the late 1800’s and early 1900’s had left us. Cocktail
culture was worsening. To understand the drinking scene of the 1960’s, 70’s and 80’s, a bartender must begin with accepting the arrival of a new drinking breed and key new ingredients – colourful fruit based liqueurs, tropical juices, sodas and blenders. Low-strength sweet-tasting, ‘disco drinks’ emerged such as the lurid-green, Midori-driven, Melon Ball and a fad of crazy named libations such as the SloeComfortable-Screw-Up-AgainstThe-Wall-With-a-Kiss (the varying and liqueur-heavy mix of vodka, sloe gin, Southern Comfort, orange juice, Galliano and cherry brandy). Blue curacao-laced drinks such as the Blue Lagoon (Andrew MacElhone, 1960) and the Blue Seven (1977) emerged from Harrys Bar in Paris. Blue Lagoon • 1 ounce blue curacao • 1 ounce vodka • 1 ounce lemon juice Shake and strain and serve in a bowl with an island of crushed and packed ice. Serve with lemon, orange and cherries. The Cosmopolitan (1987), as well as the cranberry-driven Cape Cod, Sex on the Beach and modern Sea Breeze were spawned from the advent of cranberry juice. Perfect examples of the adaption and creativity of the time. The Cosmopolitan (1987) • 1 ½ ounce Absolut Citron Vodka • 1 ounce cranberry juice • ½ ounce lime juice • ¾ ounce Cointreau • Flamed orange twist The 80’s ‘Yuppie’ Martini’s and neo-classic recipes were embraced by the new-money ‘movers and shakers’ of the time. From the 1980’s the classic cocktail was no longer stigmatised as it had been for a generation before – the martini lunch became popular again
amongst the young and upcoming social crowd. The seeds were planted for the next era of cocktails thanks in part to leaders such as Dale Degroff.
1990–Present The Renaissance The 1990’s began a consolidation of all that had gone before. A cocktail revival. During our bartending career cocktails have once again become a part of the fabric of the culture we live in. New markets for brands and bartenders have opened up and niche, ‘craft’ products are widely available across the world. The role and celebrity of the bartender has also increased over the past 20 years. There exists a level of pride that was last widely seen in the 1920-1940’s and there is a sense of precision and professionalism that is the hallmark of you - the modern bartender. The Bramble and The Espresso Martini, both from Dick Bradsell, became highly popular during the 90’s as re-worked versions of the classic Gin Fix and Martini. These recipes in turn have seen further developments with bartenders around the world adding their own nuances. Old Street has personally used the Classic Clover Club as a great vehicle to display other spirits such as with Scotch (The Compass Club) and with Bourbon (The Breakfast Club). Bramble • 1 ½ ounce gin • ½ ounce lemon juice • ¼ ounce sugar syrup • ¼ ounce Crème de Mure Fix with crushed ice in a rocks glass. Drizzle Crème de Mure over drink. Garnish with lemon wedge and blackberry The Breakfast Club (Old Street Original) • 1 ½ ounce Woodford reserve • ½ ounce lemon juice
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• 3 Fresh raspberry • ¼ ounce sugar syrup • 1 teaspoon finely shredded marmalade • 1 egg white Shake and strain into coupette. Garnish with single raspberry afloat on foam. Serve with rye bread blynis with a thin coat of orange marmalade This modern period has also seen a re-education of both bartender and customer. We see bartenders have embraced the romance of The Golden Age and at the same time are seeking new techniques, methods and ingredients to ‘twist’ the established classics for modern palates. After Dark (Old Street original) • 60ml VSOP • 5ml Benedictine • 5ml maple syrup • 2 dash orange bitters • Dark chocolate chunks • Orange twist
Then there’s molecular mixology. This movement has seen agars, gels, pearls and foams being used to change perceptions of what a drink can and should be. When executed well, it can flip a drinking experience on its head, becoming an all-encompassing sensory journey for the guest. Quinery and Tippling club will satisfy your curiosity for this genre of drink creativity. Dead Rabbit in New York and Purl in London are rated by many as some of the worlds best bars. Both have menus that pay homage to The Classic Age. Jack McGarry reportedly took 18 months researching and perfecting the cocktail menu before launching at The Dead Rabbit. Purl uses modern trailblazing sensory techniques to adapt recipes from 1880 whilst resurrecting recipes long since forgotten. The ‘Loggerhead’ uses a hot poker to heat cocktails served in tankards. Their ingredients listed as Chivas 12, pumpkin, porter
reduction & Muscovado sugar. Their Cuba Libre served as a smoked Rum Old Fashioned named ‘Mr Hyde No.3’ is stirred and sweetened with home-made coca cola tincture and chocolate bitters. The cocktail is smoked before bottled, accompanied with a honey fog. Classic recipes adapted with modern technique and ingredients. Mind blowing. Why are these considered some of the best bars in the world? In part because their cocktails are drawn from the successes of the past, from a researched historical knowledge. This is Old Streets favourite type of menu, as we feel bartenders are equally responsible as both the curators of a deep history of cocktails, and creators and innovators of new recipes. There is so much out there to inspire and help you. Never before has a professional bartender had so much product, history and understanding of the cocktail at their fingertips. Enjoy your research and expand your horizons.
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° MEET °
Interview on a
Napkin with Gaz Regan
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hat do you do when you bump into Gaz Regan in a bar? Grab a napkin, ask questions and start scribbling. That’s what.
Drinks World Asia: What was the name of the first bar you worked in when you arrived in New York as a young bartender? Gaz Regan: Drakes Drum, as in Sir Francis Drake. The owners were an American and an Englishman. The name is taken from the poem by Sir Henry Newbolt (called Drakes Drum), so the Englishman had the idea that the name of the poem would attract a strong English clientele. There was a lovely verse behind the bar, which is narrated by the ghost of Sir Francis Drake: “Take my drum to Plymouth and hang it by the shore. Beat it when your powder’s running low. And if the Dons sight Devon, I will whip the port of heaven and drum them up the channel as I drummed them long ago”. DWA: When did you work there? GR: From 1972 to 1977. Then a friend of mine opened a bar, an Englishman named David Ridens; he was my biggest mentor. DWA: How long did it take you from when you first had the idea, to prepare and publish the book; ‘The Joy of Mixology’? GR: I had a concept for the book that I ‘hawked’ around to publishers for around two years. A number of them did say they liked the idea but that it was too broad and could it be reduced in length. I kept saying no, until a friend of mine that’s an editor, Roy Finnamore at Clarks & Potter, had a look, loved the idea and actually wanted to make it even longer! Then it was about two years before I started writing, which then took another two years. DWA: Was it something you continually worked on over that period? GR: I worked on it until I had to return to the UK because my Mother had passed away and it was then that I took a few months off. The main concept for me was that there wasn’t a book that told bartenders what to do. We needed a book so bartenders and people wanting to bartend know what the job entails. For me that was the heart of the book. The gurus of our time – Ted Haigh, Angus and Dale, do have a service niche, but some of them still get misinterpreted by their readers as drink production being the core to their success. DWA: What qualities do you look for to identify a good bartender? GR: How much attention they give to me when I walk into a bar, it’s that simple. I walked into a bar in England last year and went straight to the bar where the bartender was pulling a pint of beer. I stood in front of him, yet he didn’t even look up. All he needed to give me was some form of acknowledgement, which he failed to do. I would drink rubbish drinks from a good bartender who cares about me every time.
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° MEET ° DWA: How are you still passionate about bartending after so many years? GR: It helps not to have a real job (laughs)! It keeps me going – I work 365 days a year, including Christmas Day! DWA: Apart from the Negroni, which cocktail do you wish you had invented? GR: The Manhattan. These are my two favourite cocktails. DWA: What is the difference between building a drink up in a glass and stirring on ice, and straining before mixing in the glass? GR: Just like any other cocktail, if you stir it over ice you pre-dilute it. Whereas if you pre-chill the cocktail and then strain it into a glass full of ice it won’t melt as quickly. DWA: At ‘that’ event by Negroni did you actually finger stir the Negroni all night? GR: Yes…there is something about a finger stirred Negroni! I worked another event called Star Chefs in New York which was a Fuji event and not a cocktail event. I refuse to do the finger stirred Negroni because I hadn’t been doing it for a couple of years but the event organizers requested me to do it. So I did it, but it was kind of a mistake. I did a presentation during the day and got a decent turn out. But in the evening I did the finger stirred Negroni but no-one knew who I was. I was just an old guy wearing eye makeup, stirring these Negronis with my finger and serving them (laughs). If people know who I am it’s obvious they all laugh and appreciate me. If people don’t know who I am they react in the same way. Everybody laughed and not one person questioned why I put my finger in the drink. As I was viewing that I thought if I was putting a smile on their face that was my job as a Bartender. The job of a Bartender is to put smiles on faces. DWA: I know that 50% of people know you… I wonder if someone without your repute and without your reputation could get away with a finger stirred Negroni? GR: It would all depend on the intention of the Bartender doing it. If the intention was the same there would be a good reaction. DWA: Had someone introduced you to mindfulness at a younger age, how do you think your career or life would have been different? GR: It wouldn’t be different at all because at an earlier part of my life my reaction to mindfulness would be “F*** You – Just make me a drink”? I came to mindfulness when I was ready for mindfulness. DWA: What is more important to you the drink or the service of the drink? GR: The service hands down every single time. I would drink crappy drinks from a good Bartender who cares about me every time. DWA: You may have been given the title “The Enfant Terri” of the Guru world and in the Guru world there are different levels. There are the “white head crew” and the “dark head crew”. Do you have anything you consider fundamentally different about you in your approach and outlook? GR: Yes I do and each of those people also have their way of doing it. Salvatore is a great case point, he’s the Maestro. I was behind the bar
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with him at his 50th a few years ago. Everyone was watching us make drinks behind the bar and he remarks, “Two legends behind the bar…” I cringe at that but when you delve into Salvatore you find he’s a show off. When you understand Salvatore it’s all about people and service, that’s his real passion, his theatre. Of the things I’ve come to realise is that we’ve been bought up and taught to learn from your elders. What I’ve come to realize, is that you can learn just as much from those that are younger. I can teach younger people about mindfulness and service, they can teach me about dry shaking, things that my generation never did. So no matter how old you get, never dismiss ideas coming from younger people. Listen to them, some of it may still be bullshit, but you’ll get some nuggets as well. DWA: How would you define the stages of your career from being a younger bartender entering New York at 23 to being a worldrenowned industry guru at the age of 62. Do you define it in terms of stages? GR: Absolutely. I’ve been though as many ups and downs as anybody else. I’ve worked good cocktail bars and I’ve worked neighbourhood joints. There are definite stages you have to go through and you have to know that whatever you’re being thrown is being thrown at you for a reason and if it’s bad it will surely pass. People say I’m a legend, I reply I’m a f*****g Bartender! (laughs). DWA: Who would you choose to be your desert Island Bartender and what drink would you ask for? GR: The bartender is David Ridings, my mentor who passed away in 2002 and the drink I would probably choose on a desert Island would be a Negroni. DWA: I know you love music. If you could narrow down the journey so far to one single track would that be? GR: Sid Vicious – My Way. DWA: Do you consider yourself a bit of a Sid Vicious of the bar world? GR: Actually…. more like the Keith Richards of the bar world. Why the f*** not?
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° FEATURE °
Gaz Regan’s
Mindful Bartending A Series Over 4 Editions
T
here are thousands of mindful bartenders in the world, and you might be one of them, whether you know it, or not. Mindfulness, a Buddhist concept, though you don’t have to be a Buddhist to practice it, is, in the very simplest of terms, all about living in the present moment, and being completely aware of everything that’s going on around you.
Very few people ever achieve a state of complete mindfulness, so the most we can hope for is to understand the concept, and to bring ourselves back into a state of mindfulness whenever we realize that we’ve strayed from that path. And mindfulness is an ideal practice for bartenders since there’s nothing quite as important to the man or woman behind the bar, than knowing exactly what’s going on around them at any given moment. There’s a Taoist saying that instructs that there’s no need to leave your house in order to know what’s going
on in the world, and when we look at this concept from the point of view of the bartender it easily translates into something like: There’s no need to turn your head to know that the idiot at the end of the bar is annoying everyone around them. Much of mindfulness is based on intuition. Mindfulness also entails connecting with everyone around you, and this is another concept that’s so very important to bartenders. If we don’t connect fully with our guests, after all, how can we expect to be able to make them happy? And that’s the main reason we set foot behind the
bar in the first place, right? The most important aspect of the bartender’s craft is to be of service to others, and make people happy. As this series continues I’ll be telling you about specific ways in which you can apply mindfulness to your craft, and to your life in general, and I promise that, if you practice what I suggest, you’ll find that your job will become easier, you’ll get along better with your guests, and with your co-workers, and you’ll probably end up being a happier human being in general. What more could you ask for?
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A DECADE LATER AND NO REGRETS WORDS ° Hannah Lanfear
A
s a bartender I am proud to say that London is the cradle of my career. Like many a bottle-slinger I dropped out of university and turned my hand to a trade that can satisfy even the most enquiring mind. Bartending provided a bottomless trove of study and knowledge, practical application and instant gratification that requires no diploma. Hitting the books taught me how the history of spirits is inextricable from the history of mankind itself. A decade later and I’ve no regrets, it’s a wonderful industry to be in. 70 °
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For cities it’s London I love the most: an incredibly evocative city, ceaseless innovation underpinned by boundless history. Most every day I cycle over Tower Bridge to work at Bermondsey Distillery taking in the breathtaking views of the Thames as it glisters with sun, refracted by ripples, and it always fills me up with a sense of belonging. Well, in summer at least. Opening a distillery in Bermondsey might be considered a new wave of gin distilling now, but in days gone past it would have been nothing remarkable; both Gordon’s and Tanqueray started life here. It’s mind blowing to consider the cyclical nature of the city, how fashions, tastes and industries flow, ebb and return. Bermondsey itself was the place where the food produce landed from all over the world being where the wharfs on the Thames were,
which explains the neat location of Borough Market. This was where the spices and botanicals would land so of course it made sense for the distilleries to be located, coupled with a good water source, although it wasn’t long before Clarkenwell became the preferred spot. The distillers of London were part of the parcel that brought us to our existing love of bars. Pubs always brought the community together, they held a role in the fabric of life. When the winter set in and before the electric light, pubs were a warm and brighter place where you could meet the community, it’s in our English culture to have the swift after-work half, and the weekend skinful, and it was the era of Dickens that we come very close to possibly inventing the cocktail, as he well documented in his books. We mixed our wines and ports with sugar, invented the flip, the Bishop, the
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sangaree, enjoyed bowlfuls of hot and cold punches, even our gin was lengthened with Earl Grey tea. It’s a fair claim to say that the fine art of mixing drinks perhaps wasn’t such an American invention, though it may cause controversy to say so. Much later when America suffered under prohibition we took up the mantle of cocktail making. The hotel bars of early 20th century London sparkled with the glamorous American tourists on the original booze cruises, taking cocktail holidays and enjoying the fine libations denied them at home. We had Ada Coleman mixing drinks at the Savoy, you’d go to the Ritz if you were feeling, well, Ritzy. Not to mention it was hey day of gin making. As Nick Strangeway has shone a light on, we had the fine Café Royal, a crucible of cocktail making in London city. And for gin making, this was the Golden Era. Back when London Dry gin was really made in London by a number of distilleries kicking out great quality gin. A glorious time, until disaster struck: the war came and drinking was a frivolity few could afford. The war effort meant that distilling fell by the wayside, the men had been drafted. Some distilleries didn’t survive it, and closed for good. Cocktails certainly didn’t make it through, the technically eloquent bartending of the roaring twenties fell into disrepair. The gin distilleries moved to Scotland where grain alcohol was plentiful. Vodka gradually crept into favor, people wouldn’t be seen drinking the fashions of former decades. The sixties, seventies and eighties were a derelict time for cocktails. Until Dick.
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Until that moment a cocktail would have been an insipid nightmare of liqueurs, sour mix and carton juice, but Dick Bradsell changed all that. He created a revolution. He held court at Dick’s bar in the Atlantic, and sired a number of the cities best cocktail bars, many of them now just wonderful memories. Even now if you had a cocktail list use only his signature drinks it would hardly have aged a day. Cocktails such as the Wibble, the Russian Spring Punch, the Treacle, the Bramble, the (sublime) Carol Channing, The Pharmaceutical Stimulant (known to most as the Vodka Espresso), I mean, these drinks changed the face of bartending, and I credit this man, along with Simon Difford and Class magazine, for inspiring thousands of bartenders to make this a profession. Had it not been for two publications by the Difford’s Guide (then called Sauce), Drink and Drinking, and Cocktails, I doubt I would have decided to pursue bartending. Thanks to them I became enthralled by what could be learned about the different flavours in spirits, and the intricacies of cocktail technique. Looking at that curve of how far cocktails came between the eighties and Milk & Honey, where I first cut my teeth as a serious cocktail bartender, well that’s a very long way, and certainly the bastion of contemporary cocktails and the inspired work of Douglas Ankrah at Lab can’t go unmentioned. But even now the development of cocktails hasn’t stopped. The innovators and imitators are always on the march, with a developed common style of technical bartending constantly evolving. After the opening of Milk &
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Honey the speakeasies came thick and fast, a testament to the work of Sasha Petraske, and despite the fact ten years on we yawn at the opening of yet another speakeasy it was a gift to the bartending community to have the focus put so heavily on the classics. The blueprints of balance, they teach us everything we need to know. There’s nowhere to hide with a classic cocktail, your specs must be bang on to let your cocktail sing. Using liqueurs and purees and all these strong flavours you could get away with a little give and take in the spec but not with a classic. You become aware of how to balance a liqueur over a syrup, of how to tender citrus when using a dry brown spirit versus a dry white. The next wave of bartending prowess came from that knowledge of classic cocktail structure, when we tinkered with what we learned to create new classics using the old as a template. In many ways this sorts the charlatans from the true craftsmen. You can’t fake classical bartender training. It’s an essential part of the job, much like a trainee chef needs to work larder for a while, chopping vegetables until gunshot fast. This decade we’ve seen the graduate bartenders of such training schemes at Match and Lab go forth and pull the bars of the whole city up by its bootstraps. The days of cautiously having a solitary bartender make your martini are long behind, you get them match fit and all over the shop. The importance of fresh and quality ingredients is de rigueur. These bartenders have not only gone on to implement their own training programs in their future projects, they’ve now become owner operators themselves, each with progressive ideas about where bartending is going, iceless bartending anyone?
And distilling? Distilling London Dry gin in the city is back but with verve, passion and technical ability. With a nary a fanfare Sipsmith pulled at the lock gate until the waters rushed forth, claiming the first distillers license to be issued in the city for hundreds of years. And not long behind, Sacred, City Of London, Battersea, East London, and Bermondsey. Echoing the wave of craft distillers in the US, the UK has bartenders enthralled by making the jump into distilling. We’re not quite there yet, but with small stills showing up on back bars and kitchen tables, it can’t be long before bartenders start to make waves in the distilling world. To predict what comes next is almost impossible, but we’ve seen a rise in the caliber of cocktails across the board, and the beginnings of an owner operator model. It’s such an expensive city that for most the dream of owning a bar is far beyond the possibilities of a bartender wage, but with the rise of the pop up bar – rudimentary set ups making simple but good quality drinks, the first rung of that ladder is a much easier step, and something that can built on over time into a first establishment. With bars like Happiness Forgets and White Lyan proving that you can turn a £30k investment into a world acclaimed bar, there’s a surely more to come from bartenders making their dreams a reality. There’s never been a better time for it. Hannah is currently the global ambassador at Bermondsey Distillery & Jensen’s Gin , and a freelance journalist. It can be said her fame started whilst she was Head Bartender at Milk & Honey London from 2002 -2006.
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Aki
ABOUT BAR MANAGER
A
ki Eguchi first started bartending at the age of 20 in Yokohama, Japan. Aki joined, Windjammer an American-owned jazz and cocktail lounge, and a highly-regarded training ground for some of the best bartenders in Japan. Aki joined the iconic venue first as a waiter, before moving on to work as a bar back, washing glasses and cutting garnishes behind the bar. After a year of arduous training, he was promoted to the position of bartender and over the next 4 years, Aki would continue to hone his bartending craft at Windjammer. 74 째
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° MEET °
In 2006, a “life-changing” opportunity opened up for Aki to make a move out of Japan to Singapore. With little hesitation, Aki accepted the offer and arrived here as a bartender at Cable Car. After 2 years in Cable Car, Aki was approached to join master mixologist, Tomoyuki Kitazoe in the opening of Orgo (short for “Organic Chemistry”), a forerunner in the Singapore cocktail bar scene. As bar manager, Aki was instrumental in shaping the unique cocktail experience that Orgo is acclaimed for. He worked alongside the renowned Tomoyuki Kitazoe to position Orgo as a leading bar that serves the finest fresh fruit cocktails with the use of organic ingredients. While in Orgo, Aki participated and won his first title at the 2011 Diageo Reserve World Class Singapore with his winning cocktail “Crown Jewel”. In 2012, Aki joined fine dining restaurant Waku Ghin by Tetsuya Wakuda, one of the top chefs in the world. At Waku Ghin, Aki was inspired by the advanced cooking techniques used in the kitchen and started to explore the use of these techniques in cocktail making. This creativity of combining “cooking techniques” and cocktail making led to his second win at the 2012 Diageo Reserve World Class Singapore. His award-winning cocktail, the “Bitter Gimlet”, is a twist on the classic Gimlet and Gin Tonic, prepared by using a “tonic reduction” and bergamot essence. Of his experience at Waku Ghin, Aki shares, “The many interesting techniques that I observed in the kitchen continue to inspire me in my cocktail making. The restaurant’s hospitality is also something I will bring with me, wherever I go.” In March 2013, Aki officially joined Jigger & Pony as bar manager. Bringing with him inspirations from a worldclass kitchen, experience with fresh fruit cocktails and a passion for classic cocktails, Aki believes that Jigger & Pony is the perfect bar to express his years of cultivated bartending and to push his creativity to the next level. He aims to continue to experiment with the marriage of cooking techniques, exotic ingredients and cocktail making, and hopes to spark a revival of classic cocktails by developing original recipes that showcase these cocktails with exciting twists.
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° VISIT °
When
Past Present
meets
in the fancy world of cocktails
J
igger & Pony reimagines the classics, tried and tested libations into iconic creations; ushering discerning drinkers into an inventive, sensorial experience Jigger & Pony peers ahead to a whole new defining era of classic cocktails; reshaping the age-old recipes from cocktail history to invent modern classics that are here to stay. “We are recreating the well-loved classics and conjuring them into something that is enigmatic, yet familiar. These trailblazing creations are propelled into an entire different realm, or rather a new genre – the modern classics of this age”, muses Guo Yi, General Manager and cofounder of Jigger & Pony. Despite having a stellar cocktail repertoire under its belt, not one to rest on its laurels – Jigger & Pony goes the extra mile to create an immersive experience for its customers, setting out to engage all five senses with its cocktail concoctions. More than just a mere drinking affair, guests are taken on an interactive journey through a wide spectrum of textures and flavor elements. Think theatrical flourishes like smoke and fire, married with wondrous flavours to form a multi- sensory experience. Championing this new direction, Jigger & Pony’s Bar Manager, Aki Eguchi, the two-time winner of Diageo Reserve World Class Singapore and appointed keynote speaker at the recent 2013 DFS Masters of Spirits event, has incorporated into the menu touches of the Orient, paying a spirited homage to his Asian roots.
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Combining technical perfection with subtle showmanship Boasting an extensive selection of 24 cocktails, Jigger & Pony’s cocktail menu is one of Singapore’s largest. Every drink is different in personality and style; yet possesses a single denominator that ties them all together – that perfect balance of flavors and ingredients. All juices and syrups are homemade, and the hand carved ice is made from filtered water for clarity for minimal impact on the purity of the cocktail. These craft ingredients contribute to the different nuances and flavor outcomes in each unique pour. Nuts and bolts aside, the exceptionality of these new cocktails is in the way it is served and presented in front of each guest. For one, the classic Corpse Reviver traditionally counts Absinthe as one of its ingredients; but in Jigger & Pony’s clever variation – the Corpse Reviver #101, Absinthe is extracted from the cocktail and served ingeniously in the form of a jelly that is delicately infused with chamomile to soothe any troubled nerves. Yet this ethereal concoction of Babicka Vodka, St Germain, jasmine sweet vermouth, lemon and Absinthe jelly is not just another pretty cocktail; even the most jaded of tipplers would be marveled as it unveils a whole new spectrum of floral notes in a progressive fashion. The whole Jigger & Pony experience is not just about delicious cocktails; the inexorable revival of punch bowls made clearly apparent here. Setting taste buds ablaze, the Saint Thomas is an exotic amalgamation of Banana-infused scotch, Jamaican rum, mezcal, Guinness, orange and pineapple. The average punch it is not; this one is given an added dimension with the smokiness contributed from the mezcal, and a pleasing creamy aftertaste that has Guinness beer to thank for. Ignited at the table, the smoldering, crackling concoction reminds one of the last summer bonfires. Marrying visual theatrics with unconventional flavours, this stunning masterpiece signifies a night of many good things to come. With a tale behind most drinks on the menu, the Shogun Cask fully exemplifies this philosophy of Jigger & Pony’s. Contrary to the somber connotation of its namesake, this sophisticated concoction of sake, vodka, crème de peche, grapefruit, pineapple, lime, grenadine is anything but; with its fruity notes bringing out the right level of sweetness. This Jigger & Pony original is inspired by the Kagami Biraki, an ancient Japanese ritual in which the Tokugawa Shogun (Japanese military general) would break
open a cask of sake before going to war, for the purpose of victory and good fortune. Jigger & Pony adds a touch of gravitas and mock sobriety with the use of traditional square sake ‘Masu’ cups in its serve, completing the whole ceremonial experience that is rightly fit for the serious cocktail buffs.
Coupled with a classy, vintage setting made of polished woods with warm dark undertones and expansive booths to lounge in, it is no surprise that the cocktail bar becomes a popular congregation venue where liquid luminaries and experts come together to exchange opinions or simply to have a good time.
More than just great cocktails Stocking an impressive selection of cult products that are not commonly found in Singapore, Jigger & Pony is a hotspot for sophisticated imbibers who are more inclined to artisanal spirit brands. Purists would revel in the eclectic collection of old and new world gins including the Old Tom, Hayman’s, Plymouth, No. 3 London Dry Gin, and the Monkey 47 which are so rare they can hardly be found outside of Singapore. Steeped in history as a Japanese wartime drink and at one point regarded as a hallmark of affluence, fine Japanese whiskies are receiving a welcoming renaissance in the spirits scene. Jigger & Pony carries cult brands like the rare Chichibu Malts, a young Japanese whisky maker ranked among the best in the world. The cocktail bar proudly displays the first batch of this cult whisky – both the Chichibu Peated and Chichibu The First on its shelves, and offers the former as part of its Spirit Flights, a sampling platter of cult whisky varietals with individual flavor profiles. Another highlight on these flights is the Suntory Yamazaki 18, an award-winning Single Malt Japanese whisky that has a complex bouquet of fruity and smoky aromas with a warm and lingering finish.
The devil is in the detail The team at Jigger & Pony pays great attention to even the littlest of details; besides offering table-side service for simple cocktails and complementary canapés for hungry customers during early hours, they take great pride in preparing their cocktail ingredients in-house. Infusions and syrups are all homemade, including 30 over types of shrubs such as the classic “Lemon Sherbet”. The sweet and tart nuances in these homemade shrubs stimulate the appetite while quenching thirst. Behind this delightful cocktail ingredient lies a painstaking preparation process of steeping the various fruits in vinegar, followed by sugar, with multiple straining to obtain a clear and delicious-tasting shrub syrup. On the service front, Jigger & Pony has always been known for its world class and welcoming hospitality. Guo Yi effortlessly charms with her cheery disposition and impeccable service, making customers feel at home whenever they visit. Excelling with good product knowledge and a passion to serve, the service team at Jigger & Pony fills the cocktail bar with an infectious vibe; unfailingly ensuring memorable bar experiences that make customers return every time.
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° MEET °
MEET BAR MANAGER
Louis Tan FROM L’AIGLON
S
ituated on Neil Road, L’Aiglon, the stylish bar, designed by owner PierreEmmanuel Plassart, exudes French masculinity with Asian touches, inspired by luxury travel.
Fuelled by passion for craftsmanship and novelty, Pierre- Emmanuel looks to celebrate the realm of the senses, with personalized service, top-shelf cocktails, and rare spirits for bottle service. Shaking things up behind the bar and with an newly created cocktail menu Louis Tan, is a talented and award winning bartender of Diageo Reserve World Class 2014. His foray in bartending is an impressive one, having worked the bar circuit for over 8 years. With the launch of an enhanced collection of craft cocktails that are big on flavour, and spotlights
mixology ingenuity, L’Aiglon is taking its bar offering to a whole new level. Louis Tan’s cocktail list is well-balanced, visually pleasing drinks that let the ingredients tell the story and will take your palate on a journey to remember. From full-flavoured spirits like over proof rum, cask strength bourbon, botanical gins and smokebomb spirits like mezcal, to the delicate floral elegance like those of the vine flower, elderflower and chrysanthemum, expect to bask in a cleverly orchestrated party for the taste buds.
Creeping Vines Ingredients 45ml Rhubarb infused Ketel One Vodka 30ml Vine Flower liqueur 20ml Lemon juice 15ml Red wine syrup 3 pieces fresh basil leaf Method Shaken in a cocktail shaker, leaves included Garnish Basil leaf Glassware Coupe
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APEROL SPRITZ, THE NEW WAY TO CELEBRATE UNITED.
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° REGULAR °
In pursuit
t c e f r e P k n i r D of the
WORDS ° Michael Silvers
E
very skilled barman or cocktail connoisseur will tell you there’s a certain beauty, craft and economy of movement to pulling off that perfect drink. Yes, there really is an art to it – and that belief lies at the heart of hospitality and what we at Über Bar Tools do.
Consider this… while trends in bar culture come and go, the one constant that remains has always been innovation. Look, we get that sometimes a nod to the past lends a certain authenticity or atmosphere to a bar – after all, some of the best drinks are built on the oldest recipes. But acknowledging ye olde charms, turn o’ the century décor and speakeasy-style branding hasn’t stopped the art of mixology progressing forward into inspired new frontiers of cocktailmaking. Nor should it stop us embracing the future of drinking culture. Doing things smarter is always the preferred practice for any business. So, how does one define the holy grail that is the perfect drink? Firstly, it’s about creating an experience for the drinker, and one they won’t forget. Through a combination of taste, balance, presentation and service, the barperson serves the sort of drink the drinker will
talk about and want to come back for. Secondly, a perfect drink deserves perfect tools. Think about it – a trained chef demands the sharpest knives, an artist the very best types of brushes, so why should a mixologist not have equally elite tools at their disposal? Owners should enable any barperson to craft a truly great cocktail, one that speaks for all the creativity of their trade. Thirdly, the perfect drink is never sloppy in its execution. Any device that minimises waste and increases profit should be adopted immediately – and happily our Über Bar Tools’ SurePour Solution™ does exactly that. After all, whichever way you play it, a great bar is a thriving bar. And let’s not forget that basic tenet of any smart bar owner: when you break down the margins, a bar doesn’t really make money until a customer orders a second drink, it’s why the overall experience of the first drink is as important to the bar as it is the drinker.
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° PROFILE °
Beam Suntory
Beerfest take on
B
eam Suntory was created in 2014 by combining the world leader in bourbon and the pioneer in Japanese whisky to form a new company with a deep heritage, passion for quality, innovative spirit and entrepreneurial culture. Headquartered in Deerfield, Illinois, Beam Suntory is a subsidiary of Suntory Holdings Limited of Japan. As the world’s third largest premium spirits company, Beam Suntory is crafting the Spirits that Stir the World. Consumers from all corners of the globe call for the company’s brands, including the flagship Jim Beam bourbon and Yamazaki Japanese whisky, as well as world renown premium brands including Maker’s Mark and Knob Creek bourbons, Hakushu and Hibiki Japanese whiskies, Teacher’s, Laphroaig, and Bowmore Scotch whiskies, Canadian Club whisky, Courvoisier cognac, Sauza tequila, Pinnacle vodka, and Midori liqueur. The company generates annual worldwide sales of approximately $4.6 billion excluding excise taxes. This year Beam Suntory Singapore created the Whisky and Wine Marquee at Beerfest Asia held from 12 to 15 June at
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the Marina Promenade. Festival goers tasted only the finest handpicked selection of whisky and wines from around the world at the Marquee. Also experienced the partnership with leading local cocktail bar Bar Stories who presented their creative cocktail renditions at the Beam Suntory Cocktail Bar. The Beam Suntory Whisky and Wine Experience was divided into two sections, one half showcasing the strong whisky portfolio that Beam is known for, and the other half delighting guests with more candid and relaxed options like wines and cocktails. Festival goers embarked on a taste journey that tantalized their taste buds 360° and gave them the breadth of drinking experiences only Beam Suntory can offer.
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° PROFILE °
“It was the perfect opportunity for the team to take our liquid straight to our consumers, and it was also a good chance for consumers to know the people behind the team. Our trade partners were surprised with the level of execution we put in, not only through decorations, but with keeping up with the phase of the individual experience zones. They saw the brands in action, with no hard selling; being enjoyed genuinely by our consumers. That gave them additional confidence with our extensive portfolio. This 4 day activation was the perfect representation of us having a complete portfolio that can cater to any drinking occasion. It was a good learning experience for the team... we needed roughly around 72 pax to run the tent at any given time. It was a great Team Building experience for everybody, because the whole office folded his or her sleeves and got down and dirty and slugged it out in the front line.”
RYAN BESIDO Brand Manager, Beam Suntory
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“Beam Suntory is extremely proud of the Whisky & Wine Marquee at Beerfest last month, with Beerfest Asia attendance surpassing 30,000 participants. While this year is our second year collaborating with Beerfest, it was the first time that Beam Suntory had the perfect opportunity to showcase a full suite of products – from single-malt scotches and Japanese whiskies, to our range of American bourbons, to our delicate sakes and robust wine portfolio - directly to our consumers. We were also delighted with the successful collaboration with Bar Stories, as we were able to use their incredible range of cocktails as the perfect vehicles to showcase the flexibility of our liqueur range to our consumers. Our trade partners gave us fantastic feedback when they saw our level of commitment to bring to life each brand’s promise and offerings. This year’s participation has given Beam Suntory a great chance for us to show consumers that we have a complete portfolio of products that can cater to any drinking occasion, and it has boosted trade confidence in our extensive portfolio.”
ALEX YONG
Country Manager for Singapore, Beam Suntory
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° PROFILE °
of Culture, Innovation and Global Acclaim
THAT’S MARTINI
®
W
ith a rich heritage that stretches back 150 years, iconic Italian brand, MARTINI®, makers of the world’s leading vermouth and favourite Italian sparkling wine, is celebrating its 151st Anniversary year in 2014.
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It stands amongst the world’s most modern megabrands; MARTINI® has an unrivalled heritage of exceptional liquids and culture spanning the world of art, motor racing, design and partnerships with outstanding individuals. THE BRAND MARTINI® first started production in 1864 in Pessione (a Piedmont market town with a wonderfully strategic location near a major railroad line), MARTINI® has been rooted in drinks innovation and excellence. The brainchild of salesman Alessandro Martini, liqueur expert Luigi Rossi, and accountant Teofilo Sola, MARTINI® magic sprang from the mixing of talents that each man’s experience afforded.
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° PROFILE °
THE CULTURE This penchant for making and running with opportunities, is something that recurs often in MARTINI® history. Quick to see the benefits of aligning with world-famous icons of the cultural arts, MARTINI® created a network of influencers and ambassadors which would be the envy of any brand in today’s world. Since 1863, cultural icons from every decade, have been part of the MARTINI® network. The MARTINI® Concerts brought a young Maria Callas into the homes of many Italians. A young Andy Warhol created the now-iconic print ads in the late fifties. The Le Mans winning MARTINI® Racing Team of the seventies. The new generation of ‘90s Hollywood including George Clooney, Gwyneth Paltrow and Sharon Stone appearing in a series of commercials for the brand. Most recently, the brand has used its own iconic position to provide a platform of opportunity to nurturing new talent, such as the current faces of the brand, Yuri Buzzi and Barbara Gonzales, both discovered through the global ‘MARTINI® Castings’ initiative. THE WORLD As well as being an early innovator in creating cultural connections, the brand from the beginning set out to be global. The strategic location, near key railroads, meant MARTINI® was able to make its mark on the world almost from the beginning, starting with 100 cases shipped to New York in 1867. By the start of the 20th century, MARTINI® was being enjoyed in 70 countries around the world. Whether being appointed ‘Suppliers to the Imperial House of Japan’ in 1922, winning a string of international competitions for its
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vermouth and sparkling wines, or gaining the UK royal warrant of appointment (still held to this day) – MARTINI® global success continues to endure. Today, the brand can be found in 139 countries worldwide. THE FUTURE As it looks forward to the next 150 years and beyond, MARTINI® continues to win fans and loyal consumers through its ongoing drive to deliver drinks excellence with its stylish, playful and laid-back character at the heart. Enjoying international appeal across a range of ages and cultures, MARTINI® maintains momentum as the brand that inspires people to create their own luck.
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° DRINK °
Tasting Notes
MARTINI® ASTI
MARTINI® PROSECCO
MARTINI® Asti originates from the brand’s native Piedmont region and boasts the highest Italian wine appellation – DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). This means the much celebrated and commended MARTINI® Asti can only be sourced from vines and produced in Piedmont, North-West Italy.
MARTINI® Prosecco is unique to the Veneto-Friuli areas in North-East Italy. The wine has acquired one of the highest classifications in the country – DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata).
SWEET, SILKY, DELICATE AND ELEGANT
Picked from hillside vineyards, the Moscato Bianco grapes are quickly pressed and fermented once resulting in only a light degree of alcohol. This helps retain the natural sweetness and fragrance with a hint of grape, melon and peach. For a delicate, sweet and fruity way to finish a meal and celebrate any occasion with friends, serve MARTINI® Asti chilled. Piacevole! Strength: 7.5% ABV Aromas: Delightful scents of fresh grape, melon, peach and brioche. Taste: Sweet and very well-balanced. Beautifully silky, smooth and elegant. Accompaniment: Great with any desserts, from wonderful pastries and tarts to sweet dishes served with fresh gelato.
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STYLISH, PLAYFUL, FRUITY AND CRISP
Prosecco is loved the world over for its instantly enjoyable, deliciously dry but fruity style. MARTINI® Prosecco is perfectly balanced and aromatic with a hint of fresh apple and sage. Beautifully versatile, it can be enjoyed on its own as an aperitivo or with canapés and appetisers. Perfect any time of day or night. Fantastico! Strength: 11.5% ABV Aromas: Fresh flowers, with a hint of apple, pear, banana and thyme. Taste: Fresh, crisp with good citrus acidity but well-balanced with body and fruitiness. Accompaniment: Perfectly matched with appetisers. Delicious with Mediterranean dishes such as grilled vegetables, mozzarella and tomato salad or antipasto platters featuring sun-dried tomatoes, olives, fresh cheeses and seafood. An amazing match with sushi, sashimi and carpaccio.
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MARTINI® ROSE
LUSCIOUS, AROMATIC AND ALLURING WITH A FLORAL ESSENCE Inspired by the MARTINI® native Piedmont region (the home of many famous red and white wines), MARTINI® Rosé is an elegant pink sparkling wine. It is crafted from a variety of grapes, which are delicately pressed to retain the distinctive, evocative aromas and beautiful colour. Demi-sec (mediumdry) in style, MARTINI® Rosé features complex aromatic flavours which are complemented by a gloriously gentle fruitiness. Sweet, fruity and aromatic – the perfect way to celebrate. Invite some great friends and serve it chilled. Perfetto! Strength: 9.5% ABV Aromas: A sublime floral essence with a fruity blend of wild strawberry, raspberry and wild rose. Taste: Medium-dry. Fruity whilst well-balanced and alluring. Accompaniment: Perfect for lunchtime meals and picnics with friends. Ideal with seafood or cold meats – from smoked salmon and caviar to ham or roasted turkey. Also wonderful with baked savouries like quiche or goat’s cheese tart. Why not enjoy with a touch of spice, alongside exotic Asian and Indian dishes?
MARTINI® BRUT VIBRANT, CRISP, DRY AND SOPHISTICATED
The sublime mix of grapes (mainly from the Veneto-Friuli region) gives MARTINI® Brut its wonderful fruity, vibrant, crisp and dry character. This stylish assembly is made from some of the best sparkling wine grapes – including Chardonnay and Glera. The result is sophisticated and stylish with subtle hints of fresh acacia, apple, pear and sage. To celebrate any occasion in MARTINI® style and to savour its crisp, dry character to perfection, serve it chilled. Bellissimo! Strength: 11.5% ABV Aromas: Intense, sophisticated and elegant, with a fresh aroma of apples and pears complemented with a hint of sage. Well-balanced with notes of almonds and crispy bread. Taste: Dry with good acidity and vibrant character. Full, brisk, rich and elegant with a slight hint of almond. Accompaniment: Perfect with any main meal. Heavenly with roasted and barbequed meats and creamy dishes – such as risotto and pasta. Also a great match with soft (but semi-matured) rind cheeses, such as Camembert and Brie.
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BOLLINGER
° DRINK °
S
ince 1829, Bollinger has been producing great champagnes with a powerful, sophisticated and complex style. Brilliant wines resulting from high quality standards at all times: there is no room for approximation at Bollinger. We strive for constant perfection right down to the smallest details. An uncompromisingly independent spirit together with an unostentatious distinction: this elegance so typical of Champagne conquered the Crown of England and, in 1884 our House was awarded the very prestigious Royal Warrant, designating the official purveyors to the Court.
HISTORY, FAMILY Bollinger is above all the story of a family. The House in Aÿ is one of the very last Champagne Houses to remain independent since its foundation when Athanase Hennequin de Villermont, a naval officer promoted to Admiral during the American War of Independence, formed a partnership with Paul Renaudin and Jacques Bollinger, both of whom were representatives for a champagne House that no longer exists. Land-and vineyard-owning
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aristocracy joined forces with a spirit of commercial conquest thus creating the company Bollinger Renaudin & Cie. It is impossible to mention Bollinger without talking of Elisabeth Law de Lauriston-Boubers, who took over from her husband Jacques Bollinger in 1941 on his premature death. She presided over the House until 1971, doing a great deal to expand the Bollinger reputation all over the world, positioning it as the reference for the finest champagne connoisseurs. Jérôme Philipon, who
took over the House in 2008, continues the adventure which began nearly 200 years ago now and strives to preserve and enhance this wonderful heritage in harmony with the Jacques Bollinger Company, the family group holding. VINEYARD, HOUSE A Champagne House is nothing without its vines and the founders were quick to understand that to make a very great wine, they needed the best grapes in Champagne. So over the years the
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Bollinger vineyard, made up almost exclusively of Grand and Premiers crus, has continued to expand. Today it covers 164 ha and provides over 60% of the House’s requirements, which is rare in the Champagne region. Bollinger also buys in supplies from winegrowers who own vineyards in the best crus. As partners of the House for a good many years, they enrich the blend and offer Bollinger the luxury of choice in producing the various different cuvees. The principal feature of the Bollinger range is its majority of Pinot Noir in its blends. Located in Aÿ, listed as 100% Grand cru Pinot Noir, the House could not have hoped for a better terroir to exploit and extract the best of this grape variety, which accounts for 60% of the total grape variety in the vineyard. VINIFICATION IN WOOD The Bollinger taste is a fine mixture of strength, finesse and balance that does not come solely from the quality of grapes from the vineyards. The first fermentation in oak barrels is what
undoubtedly makes Champagne Bollinger stand out from the rest. Remember however that the House does not use new wood but small, used barrels, which are not meant to add tannic woody aromas, but rather to encourage controlled oxidation by acting as a filter between the wine and the outside world. This gives the wines an incredible ageing potential and allows for the development of highly complex aromas. TIME The notion of time is an integral part of Bollinger. Firstly because all the wines are left to age on lees for two or three times as long as stipulated in the regulations set out by the Champagne appellation, so that the wine can develop and gain in complexity. But this notion of time does not stop at simply choosing to allow the wines to age for a long time in the cellars: it extends to the whole Champagne Bollinger philosophy. At Bollinger we let nature run its course; if the harvest does not reach vintage standards, we wait until the following year or even the one
after that, so that quality always prevails over quantity. To take this idea even further, only La Grande Année vintages with an exceptional ageing potential will be left several years longer in the cellars to become the famous Bollinger R.D. cuvees, to delight the taste buds of the most demanding tasters. RESERVE WINES IN MAGNUMS The connoisseurs are unanimous: the quality and reliability of a Champagne House are determined mainly by its non-vintage blend. In addition to partial fermentation in barrels, the Champagne Bollinger non-vintages, Special Cuvée and Bollinger Rosé, have another equally exceptional characteristic that is quite unique in Champagne: the addition of reserve wines from Grands and Premiers crus fermented in barrels, aged in corked magnums for between 5 and 15 years. It is also worth noting that the non-vintage wines always contain a majority of reserve wines in the blend, which allows us to maintain constant style and quality in our wines.
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° MEET °
Krug Champagne Appoints First Restaurant Ambassade in Singapore:
JAAN K
rug Champagne, the world’s first luxury Champagne House, is proud to announce the appointment of award-winning JAAN, Swissôtel The Stamford, as the brand’s first restaurant to be a Krug Ambassade in Singapore.
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Krug Ambassade is an international network of exceptional restaurants who share the same philosophy as Krug: quest for undisputable quality which leads to timeless and unforgettable pleasure experience all in an environment infused with the passion and enthusiasm of the Krug Ambassade. Handpicked by Maggie Henriquez, President and CEO of Krug, JAAN at Swissôtel The Stamford will be the first restaurant in Singapore to join the ranks with other renowned restaurants such as l’Assiette Champenoise in Champagne, Flocon de Sel in Mégève, l’Hôtel Georges V in Paris, Le Burgundy, Fat Duck and Murano in London, Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental London, Palazzina Grassi in Venice, Fingers in Milan, Kinoshita in Sao Paolo, 8 1/2 Otto & Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong and Tim Raue restaurant in Berlin.
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In this partnership, JAAN will be offering the full range of Krug, including some vintage bottles that are previously not available at restaurants and wine retailers. Krug Grande Cuvée will also be available by the glass. Diners can savour dishes paired with Krug Champagne in a special 6-course menu, prepared by Chef de Cuisine Julien Royer. “I believe that the best culinary creations are those that respect the pure flavours of the freshest seasonal ingredients, sourced from gourmet producers all over the world. The specially curated menu at JAAN will complement the fine craftsmanship of Krug’s exquisite champagnes, presenting an inspiring yet flavourful experience,” says Julien Royer. Its commitment to unparalleled quality is what made JAAN a natural choice for a Krug Ambassade. Since the brand’s inception in 1843, Krug has aspired to create a champagne of undisputed quality, featuring rare generosity and elegance. With JAAN on board as the brand’s Krug Ambassade, Krug will be able to share this distinctive philosophy with Singapore’s wine enthusiasts.
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JULIEN ROYER, Chef de Cuisine of JAAN Born into a family of fourth generation farmers in Cantal, Central France, the rhythms of seasonal produce and ingredients were engrained in Julien Royer at an early age. As a young student he attended a specialised primary school where he studied culinary arts. Royer chose to continue his formal culinary education in secondary school and after completing his training, he brought his appreciation for quality ingredients to the kitchens of Michel Bras and Bernard Andrieux at their Michelin-starred restaurants. His experiences at Laguiole and Puy de Dôme in Durtol reinforced Royer’s childhood lessons about the importance of pure and organic ingredients. Feeling the need to expand his culinary horizons, Royer traveled to the French West Indies where he worked at the Carl Gustaf Hotel and in Jean Georges Vongerichten’s restaurants in Bora Bora. More recently, he worked as sous chef at the Greenhouse Restaurant in London and as chef de cuisine of Brasserie les Saveurs at the St. Regis in Singapore. Now as Chef de Cuisine at JAAN in Singapore, he showcases his devotion and respect to seasonal ingredients through artisanal creations, which have become a way of life.
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Understanding
the Terroir
A
shley Pini interviews Thibaut Le Mailloux - communications director of the Comité Champagne.
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DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Could you please tell us more about your role of communications director for the Comité Champagne? What do you do on a day-to-day basis? THIBAUT LE MAILLOUX: My role is to serve as the representative of the Champagne appellation and Champagne wines in general. I work in a neutral way, regardless of the wines produced by growers, cooperatives or Houses, and without any influence on the business of Champagne producers. We deal with corporate communications such as information and communication about Champagne wines to targeted audiences. For example we work with sommeliers, restaurants, wineshops and tasting clubs. A key mission is to also target wine educators around the globe. We work with hospitality schools all over the world and organize many competitions for them, based on their knowledge of Champagne wines. DWA: What are some of the most important activities of your organisation? TLM: Our main activity is to inform the world about the fact that Champagne is from Champagne: we strive for the respect of this appellation as a geographical indication and a unique, not generic name. This goal drives most of our activities, including education of Champagne wines, which starts with the understanding of the concept of Champagne terroir, defined by a delimited area within a precise location, and the strict production rules of the Champagne appellation. But we also offer many other services to Champagne producers: half of the staff of the Comité Champagne and one third of budgets are dedicated to R&D in sustainable
viticulture. Another third goes to protection of the appellation and communication. When it comes to these fields, a key asset of our organization is the network of “Champagne Bureau” offices in 16 countries (mature Champagne markets but also Brazil, China, India and Russia). Their mission is to extend the impact of our activity onto the Champagne markets and also, build long-term relationships with local officials, wine producers and wine educators. These Champagne embassies also organize press relations in the various countries, and some events such as Vin de Champagne Award, which celebrates and searches for the best performing Champagne wine ambassadors. Our Bureaus also organise Champagne tastings for the local press and trade, and various activities depending on the country. There is of course some activity spill-over onto a broader audience through www.champagne.com which we are building as a sort of encyclopedia of Champagne, where you can learn most of what needs to be known about Champagne. DWA: More and more wineries and growers are committing to sustainable/environmentally conscious practices. In terms of innovation and environmental sustainability what has Comité Champagne achieved lately? Any initiatives worth of mention? TLM: Based on those findings in the early 2000s, there are four major issues for action: Reduction of additives, and the control of risks to health and the environment; The preservation and enhancement of terroir, bio-diversity and landscapes; the accountable management of water, effluent, by-products and waste and the energy and climate
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challenge. The energy and climate challenge is probably the biggest challenge facing mankind and one addressed by the Champagne region long before the passing of legislation. In early 2003 the carbon footprint of the industry was assessed as a whole, launching the Champagne climate plan. The plan today encompasses five main focus areas, 16 research and development programmes and more than 40 individual projects. The main fields of action are: buildings/ installations; viticulture and oenological practices, and freight transport and business travel. The latest initiative is the creation of experimental sites within the region, where we are experimenting with the implementation of both sustainable viticulture and the preservation of our landscapes (integration of wine activities within the landscape, from the perspective of environmental and visual impact). This is a major project developed in the context of the candidature of the Champagne region to the Unesco World Heritage. DWA: One of the main objectives of Comité Champagne is protecting the appellation Champagne. Do you find that many countries still don’t protect it? Do you find there is still a lot of confusion on the matter? TLM: Many people in the world still hear “sparkling wine” when they hear Champagne. Although Champagne is always a sparkling wine, not all sparklers are Champagne, and we have to strive to educate consumers to this, even in countries where our appellation is being protected. However, there are still major wine drinking countries where the work of protection of the appellation Champagne is not over. Russia, Argentina, the USA for example are among them: these countries produce sparkling wines but don’t protect the Champagne name. As a consequence, some local wines are being labeled with the word “Champagne” – this is misleading consumers of course, it is a theft of our name and its reputation, to the benefit of sparkling wines of generally, extremely low quality. As we always say: “Champagne only comes from Champagne, France”. But we are confident that we will succeed, even if it takes many years – this is a fight that we will never give up. It’s about respect of our wines’ name – and names mean something! Also it is a matter of transparency, and proper information to the consumers about where their wine comes from, which induces specific taste profiles and characteristics.
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FRESH AND FRUITY Getting to Know New Zealand Wine
D
id you know that wine is New Zealand’s largest horticultural export by value? And that it is also New Zealand’s eighth biggest goods export, sold in over 80 different countries globally? WORDS ° Mark Henderson
Newly released data shows that New Zealand is now the world’s eighth largest exporter of wine by value - in fact the value of New Zealand wine exports rose three per cent to $1.21 billion for the year ending June 2013. While wine production is still comparatively small from New Zealand on a global scale, with a producing area of only 35,722 hectares and a total of 248.4 million litres of wine produced for the year ending June 2013, the island nation is proving itself no
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longer just a bit player in global wine. John Freeman, general manager Australia and strategic growth markets for Wairau Valley based Oyster Bay Wines explained that increasing percapita wine consumption in Western economies, mixed with premiumisation and shifts in consumer wine choices has helped to boost New Zealand’s presence as a wine producing nation. Speaking to Drinks World Asia, John said; “New Zealand
is a relatively new producer by world standards, but is very well positioned to benefit from largescale consumer trends. Consumers are seeking out the best the world has to offer. New Zealand wine, and Marlborough sauvignon blanc in particular, is recognised globally for tremendous consistency and quality. Even though New Zealand wines are typically sold at a premium to wines from most countries, they are viewed as excellent value-for-money.” New Zealand has 10 major
wine-producing areas including Auckland, Gisborne, Wairarapa (Martinborough) and Hawke’s Bay in the North Island, and Marlborough, Central Otago, Canterbury in the South Island. Wine varieties produced across New Zealand include: sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, cabernet, chardonnay and pinot gris. Australia is the largest export market by value for New Zealand wines – we are worth $373 million, while the USA and UK are not far behind with the latest figures
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Top: Matua Cellar Door Bottom: Matua winemaker, Nikolai St George
valued at $283.7 million and $278.4 million consecutively. In his Chairs’ Report for 2013, Board of New Zealand Winegrowers chair, Steven Green highlighted some of the reasons behind the growth pattern; “North America is a major strategic opportunity for the sector,” he said; “Shipments to the USA increased 13 per cent to $284 million making it the second largest market for our wines while exports to Canada lifted 10 per cent to $78 million”. Global brand manager for Matua, Adam Prentice explains that a shift in taste preferences has been a contributing factor to New Zealand wine’s success; “Over the past 10 years, we have observed a big change in taste preferences (both in food and wine) to cleaner, fresher and lighter styles. This has fuelled significant growth opportunities for NZ sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. At the same time, our attention to quality and consistency has improved considerably.” So what is it that sets New Zealand wine apart from wines produced in other parts of the world? Brand manager for Yealands Estate Wines, Debbie Jones
suggests that extended growing seasons and unique environmental factors are the key; “New Zealand has an extended growing seasons in a pristine environment, allowing grapes to develop flavour over a long period of time.” Villa Maria’s senior Auckland winemaker, Nick Picone expanded on this explaining that it comes down to freshness of fruit - an intensity of pure fruit he describes as “unmatched elsewhere.” Picone explained that the freshness and intense fruit influence that charatcterises wines from New Zealand is due to a combination of factors including the unique geography, climate and soils that exist on the islands; “New Zealand wines are food wines, possessing the appropriate acidity, alcohol and weight of flavour to combine with, as opposed to clashing with, the flavours across a broad range of cuisines. New Zealand wines offer refreshment and approachability; the climate preserves the varietal characteristics unique to the specific variety. Above all else, New Zealand wines offer quality; the quality of the ‘average’ bottle is as good if not better than found anywhere in the world.”
Speaking about the most recent vintage, 2013, Picone said; “2013 has in some instances produced slightly riper and fuller bodied sauvignon blanc’s than average in Marlborough, yet are still classically Marlborough which is vital for the style.” Winemaker for Wither Hills, Sally Williams agreed with Picone saying; “The 2013 growing season was filled with plenty of sunshine hours and cool nights, the wines are showing intensity and ripeness of fruit from the warm days and a firm structure from the cool nights maintaining the vibrant acidity Marlborough wines are renown for.” While head winemaker for Matua, Nikolai St George described 2013 as a fantastic vintage across all
wine varietals; “Our sauvignon blanc is slightly more aromatic and citrus than our 2012 release and the quality is exceptional. At the same time, 2013 was another great vintage for our pinot noir. Our 2013 releases deliver great colour coupled with dark ripe cherry characteristics in a similar vein to our 2012 releases.” Building on the 2013 vintage, as well as previous vintages, New Zealand wine is looking forward; optimistic with supply and demand starting to balance out, as well as some new offerings that are showing promise. Over the next five to 10 years, John Freeman suggests that New Zealand will become supply constrained and will need to focus on the super premium wine
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Clockwise from left: Marlborough Vineyard; Matua Founder, Bill Spence; Vineyard in Central Otago
“New Zealand wines offer quality; the quality of the ‘average’ bottle is as good if not better than found anywhere in the world.” - Nick Picone markets; “In the longer term, we see New Zealand being supply-constrained, as it will not be easy to plant sufficient vineyards in such a small geographic area to meet the projected long-term growth in global demand. For this reason, New Zealand will therefore remain a relatively small producer on a global scale, but will be significant in the super premium segment of the market.” While global brand manager for Matua, Adam Prentice says that the future will see a growing market interest in some of the lesser-known New Zealand wines; “Sauvignon blanc and pinot noir are on fire - chardonnay, riesling and albarino will follow. Quality will continue to increase as prices rise and continued investment is made in the industry. It’s fair to say we are very excited
about the future.” “The NZ industry is upbeat with supply and demand well balanced so NZ wines are well placed to show the world much more of our wine story, we would expect pinot noir and other varieties like chardonnay and even pinot gris grow in recognition and demand,” said Sally Williams. With a future that looks bright, New Zealand doesn’t look to be slowing down its wine production. With its focus on quality and expanding varietals, it looks like this small island nation will continue making its name as a key wine producer in the coming years. So next time you enjoy a glass of wine, why not try New Zealand?
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3
years in
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T
he years 2011 to 2013 were trying times for Bourgognes. Unusual weather conditions posed a great challenge to the winegrowers. Patience was required and their pains and efforts paid off. 2011 resulted in a vintage characterized by some delicious aromas and flavors. And 2012 saw the fulfillment of the promise of the first tastings. Wines were revealing their personalities. And their wide range reflected the aromatic diversity that characterizes the wines of Bourgognes, small quantities but good quality. 2013 proved that experience can make the difference. Vintage revealed a real aromatic purity and unexpectedly color, and the balance in the wines was particularly satisfactory.
The 2011 Vintage:
Pleasure is the watchword Thanks to some unusual weather conditions - which could be becoming the norm, given what happened in 2012 - the 2011 vintage is characterized by some delicious aromas and flavors. These are wines to be enjoyed relatively young. The weather for the 2011 vintage began spectacularly with a particularly warm and early spring, before giving way to a cool and rainy summer with periodic heavy storms. As is often the case, a sunny end to August “a fait le moût” or “made the juice”, as they say. For the third time in a decade, the harvests began in the last 10 days of August, with some very tricky logistics. Each plot had to be harvested as it reached perfect maturity, and the sunshine in early September and low rainfall meant patience was required. The grapes had to be painstakingly sorted but the high discard resulted in fruity, silky reds and whites that were bursting with energy.
After a few months in the bottle, they will quickly soften up to reach a perfect balance. They offer very good keeping potential. Côte Chalonnaise For the Côte Chalonnaise, 2011 will remain a gloomy year. The vines in the Montagny and Rully appellations were hit hard by hail. A few vines were, however, spared and went on to produce wines that are aromatic, smooth and fat, with perfect mouthfeel. The same goes for other appellations like Mercurey, Bouzeron and Givry, which were less hard hit and produced their usual yields. These whites offer a fine balance between sugars and acidity which indicates good balance and liveliness on the nose. The aromas are expressive, with hints of almond, pear and toasted bread. The acidity is present but never unpleasant.
White wines Chablis and Auxerrois Summer 2011 was changeable. June and August were particularly wet, and July and September saw little sunshine. Given these tricky conditions, winemakers had to be determined and extremely rigorous in order to produce such high-quality, seductive wines. They are very aromatic wines with good minerality and offer balanced acidity on the tongue, a quality essential to Chablis. This acidity has a classic lemon twist without being tart. A touch of citrus and fresh, fruity notes of pear and apricot make these wines expressive and forthright. They will be ripe for drinking fairly quickly. Some of the wines from these regions, which have a wonderful complexity and perfect structure, can wait a few years. Côte de Beaune Small yields resulting from the capricious spring weather meant the harvesting could wait until the grapes were perfectly ripe. With a more clement month of September and some strict sorting, the winemakers were graced with top quality grapes. Overall, the wines are very aromatic, dominated by notes of both ripe and dried fruits. In the mouth, they are lively with perfect structure and offer breadth with consistency.
Mâconnais The Mâconnais enjoyed a mild winter and a hot, dry spring. Many storms during the summer and a heat wave during the second half of August meant the grapes matured very early. The winemakers, who used their skills to manage yields and preserve the balance of sugar and acidity, saw their efforts rewarded. The wines have the smoothness of early vintages with that extra minerality of cool summers, a combination that guarantees excellence and good keeping potential. This is most certainly an excellent vintage! The best terroirs offer an intense golden color, notes of flint, vanilla and ripe grape and peach, topped off by an attractively exotic hint of ripe mango and pineapple. The palate treads a line between elegance and sophistication with a forthright, sometimes austere finish. These wines will age very well, but they can also be enjoyed now as an aperitif or with food.
Red wines Auxerrois The reds, mainly from Irancy, offer lovely notes of morello cherry and redcurrant. Fresh and delicious, they should be enjoyed in their youth.
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° VISIT ° Côte de Beaune Hard work paid off in 2011 on the Côte de Beaune. Despite rather tricky weather at the beginning of summer, the grape harvest took place in optimum conditions. The grapes were perfectly mature and healthy in the main, ensuring some quality wines. The reds from the Côte de Beaune are very aromatic, dominated by elegant fruity notes, and are dense, full-bodied in the mouth with smooth, velvety tannins. They are flavorful and delicate, and are among the best of the region.
They have a moderate degree of alcohol which makes them mouthwateringly appealing without heaviness. Rich ruby in color, these wines explore all the nuances of a classic, fruity year, between raspberry, blueberry and warm spices. They are remarkably fresh in the mouth and are perfectly balanced. They offer good structure, underpinned by tannins that are both closed yet silky. Complex and full-bodied, the 2011 wines of the Côte de Nuits offer good keeping potential, but as with the 2007 vintage, they are also accessible in their youth, and are already generous and appealing.
Côte Chalonnaise With such tricky weather, careful yield management was key to ensuring the maturity of the grapes. In the end, the red grapes offered thick skins which translated into forthright tannins and raspberry red colors with hints of violet. Despite being hit by hail, Rully profited from the fine weather during the tail end of the season and the reds caught up with the rest, offering some desirable concentration. The wines are aromatic with good structure. With a framework of smooth and silky tannins, they are perfect for enjoying in their youth.
Crémant de Bourgogne
Côte de Nuits The Côte de Nuits grapes were harvested in tip-top condition. Despite the dismal weather earlier in the summer, the grapes were ripe by the beginning of September. Although there was a lot of discard from the harvest, the resulting wines were elegant and silky, with wonderful concentration.
One year after the harvests, the 2012 vintage is fulfilling the promise of the first tastings. The year was notable for its rollercoaster weather, with a mild winter, spring-like temperatures in March, followed by a sharp drop and some frosts, a sunny May, cold and rainy June, and an unstable summer with periods of heat wave, hail and storms… Although the cold and damp during flowering led to shatter and millerandage, with an inevitable impact on volumes, the sunny and warm late summer allowed the grapes to attain good levels of ripeness and the harvest was relatively disease-free. Today, the wines of the 2012 vintage are revealing more of their personalities. Their wide range reflects the aromatic diversity that characterizes the wines of Bourgogne. They also reflect the climatic conditions to which the vines were subjected, and the efforts of the winemakers and négociants to bring out the best in the fruit. These wines all have two characteristics in common: small quantities, but good quality.
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The 2011 Crémant de Bourgogne wines are smooth and expressive with a rounded mouthfeel. The Chardonnay offer pure aromas of white peach and grapefruit. The Aligoté release light and discreet acidulated notes. Despite low yields, the Pinot Noir have good structure and strong color. The Gamay are bursting with intense aromas of red berries.
The 2012 Vintage:
Precious Bourgogne wines
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White wines Chablis and Auxerrois As in most regions of the Bourgogne, the changeable weather conditions had an impact on yields. In the earlier-ripening sectors, shatter and millerandage led to a drop in volumes, although the quality was unimpeachable. The wines are particularly expressive, developing intense aromas of ripe fruit, underscored with some wonderful floral notes. In the mouth, they are rounded and dense, with good structure. Those wines from more late-ripening plots are characterized by more subtle citrus scents and tangy fruits, well-defined and mineral in the mouth, where the acidity gives them a pleasant crispness. Côte de Beaune The Côte de Beaune was hit by hail, resulting in a significant fall in volumes harvested, especially in the central and southern sectors. The wines are showing remarkable quality overall, with nice concentration and undeniable aromatic complexity. Spared the hail, the hill of Corton and the surrounding region produced some marvels. The wines, with notes of ripe and dried fruits, are powerful and vivacious in the mouth, revealing clear ageing potential. The very promising results lived up to expectations. Côte Chalonnaise Not having suffered from hailstorms and having been less affected by bad weather, the Côte Chalonnaise provided an excellent 2012 vintage. Made from very healthy fruit, which reached full maturity, the wines are rich and full-bodied. They exhibit excellent aromatic qualities, with odors of white fruits and apricot mingling with delicate floral notes (lime blossom, acacia, etc.). The mouth is full and fleshy, and superbly structured Mâconnais The Mâcon region bounced back well after the poor spring weather. Although shatter and millerandage led to reduced volumes and in places, slowed ripening, the quality of the wines obtained is exemplary. They are very expressive on the nose, with intense aromas of ripe fruits (pear, apple, apricot), accompanied by subtle hints of flowers. The mouth is both rounded and dense, fleshy and perfectly balanced. The 2012 vintage here produced many spectacular successes.
Red wines Auxerrois Patient winemakers got their reward. Maturity was a long time coming, but was finally attained, thanks to the small volumes produced. Fruity and with a pleasant crispness, the wines are full in the mouth, with pronounced tannins. Côte de Beaune The violent hailstorms that swept the Côte de Beaune left an indelible trace on the year’s output. Some plots in the communes of Pommard and its surroundings lost up to 80% of the harvest. These difficult climatic conditions were responsible for the low volumes produced. The resulting wines benefited from the effect of concentration, which has become a qualitative advantage. They are fruity and spicy, with good breadth, and a crisp, pleasing acidity. Their body and tannin structure mean they have very good ageing potential. Côte Chalonnaise Thanks to rather more clement weather conditions than in some neighboring regions, the Côte Chalonnaise produced a vintage that will go down in the annals. Outstanding maturity and peak condition grapes allowed for wines with exceptional aromatic and gustatory characteristics. Côte de Nuits With 2012, the Côte de Nuits produced an excellent vintage. Having escaped the hail, but not the effect of shatter and millerandage, the grapes reached maturity in tip-top conditions. The wines, with a deep color and aromas of small fruits and very ripe berries, are remarkably balanced. Both smooth and crisp, their roundedness is underscored by especially soft tannins. With a succulent finish and impressive length, they can without any doubt be considered wines for long ageing.
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The 2013 Vintage:
Prodigious Bourgogne wines After the challenges thrown at them in 2012, Bourgogne winemakers were hoping for a peaceful 2013. But capricious Mother Nature had other ideas. Defying all weather forecasts, she never let up. After a long winter, a gloomy spring and a fine, providential summer, for the most part, the pickers had to wait until the start of October to take up their secateurs. The consequences of the weather’s whims – such as shatter and millerandage, hail damage, concentration and disease – all had an impact on the quantities harvested. Across the region, no winegrowing area was spared. Some had very low yields with volumes equal to or even less than those recorded in 2012 (1.26 million hectoliters ). Fortunately, the first tastings suggest that 2013 is a very successful vintage. Once again, experience has made all the difference. It has been a challenging year but the winegrowers of Bourgogne have been rewarded for their pains.
We feared the worst, but we were spared! The winter lingered in Bourgogne. From January to July, the temperatures were cool. The sun was notably absent during the first half of the year, and the rain all too frequent. This gloomy weather affected the vines, setting back the growth cycle by around two weeks. In early May, when the first buds had just appeared, torrential rainstorms hit the region. In some plots, the vines spent several days with their roots in water. The weather during flowering and fruit set was no better and by now, the growth cycle was set back by three weeks. A hot, dry and sunny summer provided a welcome change and helped the quality of the grapes, enabling them to mature correctly. July was marked by a violent hailstorm on the Côte de Beaune with 1,350 hectares affected on 23 July.
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September didn’t help the vines, with the ambient warmth and regular rain encouraging the development of the Botrytis fungus which rots the grapes. It was more limited on those bunches where the grapes were smaller and thus better aerated. The choice of harvest date was a tough one. Winegrowers had to be very reactive and work fast. This demanding vintage required a lot of effort that, today, has been rewarded with success. The wines are revealing a real aromatic purity and unexpectedly color. The balance in the wines is particularly satisfactory.
White wines Fruity and balanced, the white wines are characterized by a nose marked with citrus. This aromatic crispness is also felt in the mouth. The wines are well structured, fresh and lively, without the aggression some feared given the acidity measurements taken just before the harvest. Forthright and without flourishes, the whites of 2013 stand up convincingly to previous vintages.
Red wines With an intense, sparkling ruby color, these fruity wines are like a mouthful of freshly picked cherries, raspberries and redcurrants. The Pinot Noirs that were harvested later have more jammy aromas. On tasting, the first acidulated notes give way to a good structure supported by sophisticated, pronounced tannins. Good length on the tongue prolongs the pleasure.
Crémant de Bourgogne Good acidity and sugar levels meant that at the end of September, the grapes harvested were perfect for making Crémant de Bourgogne. The lively and fruity white base wines reveal aromas of white peach and grapefruit. The Pinot Noirs are characterized by fine structure, while the Gamays offered very high quality with intense aromas of red fruit. 2013 offers producers the possibility to make vintage cuvées with good keeping potential.
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www.frangelico.c om
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COLORS/LS: 4C/? PUB: DWA FOR QUESTIONS CALL: Kelley Cowles 214-891-5823
RELEASE DATE: July 2012 INSERTION DATE: 2012
simply perfect.
Hand-selected 100% Weber blue agave. The world’s finest ultra-premium tequila. patronspirits.com
116 °
The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. © 2012 Patrón Spirits International AG, Schaffhausen, Switzerland. 40% Alc./Vol.
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