THE MAGAZINE FOR MANAGERS, SOMMELIERS AND BARTENDERS 獻給管理者 、侍酒師和調酒師的雜誌
HONG KONG & MACAU NO. 8
BACARDÍ LEGACY
LOOKS FOR A NEW CHAMPION
BEEFEATER
BRINGS LONDON TO HONG KONG
THE VODKA MARTINI IS BACK WITH BELVEDERE
Meet the founders of
TEQUILA
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Welcome Welcome to the eighth edition of Drinks World Asia – Hong Kong. It’s amazing how quickly time flies. The past few months have seen Hong Kong abuzz with activities and events that would get you in a frenzy. For starters, Aviation American Gin has been formally launched in Hong Kong, so has Snow Leopard vodka – the “Spirit with a Soul”. Likewise, Royal Salute has unveiled a contemporary new look for its 21 Year Old ‘The King of Whiskies’. Challenges encourage you to push yourself and push the boundaries. Learn a thing or two about some of the renowned cocktail competitions in our full coverage of Bacardi Legacy, Beefeater MIXLDN, Hendrick’s Gin and the Macau Bartender of the Year. Not to mention G’Vine’s celebration of the unconventional via the G’Vine Perspectives Global Challenge on pages 32-33. Guess who’s making a comeback in the drinks scene? None other than vodka martini and sherry. Belvedere is bringing back the vodka martini tradition. Check out our Cocktail Club Martini for some recipes. Sherry as well is making a resurgence, with bars and restaurants showcasing it with both respect and appreciation. Further on drinks, we’ve featured herein craft cocktails by Aqua Spirit’s Liquid Chef and Master Mixologist, Joao Balzani. Meanwhile, Martin Newell – who will be joining Moët Hennessy Diageo in Hong Kong – talks about the revolution of Australia’s drinking culture on pages 57-59. Learn more about Islay malt whisky and recreation gin in our profiles on Ardbeg and GIN 1495. We also have a take on beer and wine. According to John O’Toole, exploring the history of tequila, mezcal and agave spirits should be a book itself. Find out why on pages 70-73. On the cover of the magazine are the guys behind Tequila Mockingbird. Get to know them, as well as Tunny Grattidge, Knut Randhem and Miquel Sabrià Bernabeu up close in our ‘’Meet Section’’. Know what’s the latest from Cointreau in our interview with Alfred Cointreau on pages 90-91. We’ll also take you on a journey into the world of González Byass. Discover how the house transformed itself into a renowned family of wineries on pages 94-101. Moreover, find out what happened when leading bartenders and people from the industry gathered together in one place in Industry Night at Boujis. And for more on the food and hospitality industry, check out our feature on HOFEX. Lastly, browse through our facebook page or check out www.drinksworld.asia to keep track of what’s going on in the drinks realm. Until then, enjoy reading this edition! Cheers!
Drinks World Asia - Hong Kong is distributed to 3000+ bars, restaurants and hotels in Hong Kong. If you would like to have your brand represented or would like to contribute or comment please contact: marc@hipmedia.com.au
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Credits CREDITS Publisher Marc Rodrigues marc@hipmedia.com.au EDITORIAL Publishing Editor Ashley Pini Editor Miracielo Broñola DESIGN Senior Designer Ryan Andrew Salcedo ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Sasha Falloon SALES Sales Director Marc Rodrigues PHOTOGRAPHY Photographer Elden Cheung, Simonie Ip Writers: Miracielo Broñola, Chester Grucza, Matt Kirkegaard, Frank Lonergan, Josef Murray, Martin Newell, John O’Toole, Leo Owen-Boys, Neil Rivington, Tom Wood, Reeve Yip
COVER: Learn more about Tequila Mockingbird and the guys behind it up close. Story on pages 65-69.
Produced and published by
Editorial Enquiries: If you, your bar, or your brand and company have news or events you would like to share with Drinks World Asia please contact: ashley@hipmedia.com.au Although Hip Media Asia endeavours to ensure the accuracy and correctness of the information and drinks trade and drinkstrade.com.au, we do not accept any liability or responsibility for any inaccuracies or missions. The views expressed by authors of publications or event presentations, published drinks trade, do not necessarily represent the views of Hip Media Asia. Decisions or actions based on the information and publications provided by Hip Media Asia are at your own risk.
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drinks-world-asia @drinksworldasia drinksworldasia
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Contents
Feature
8 23 29 32 36 39 57 70 80 88 92 106 117 120
23
Bacardi Legacy Hong Kong Beefeater MIXLDN Global Bartender Competition 2014 Hendrick’s Cocktail Competition 2014
8
G’Vine Perspectives Aviation American Gin Hong Kong Launch How To (The Basics of Bartending)
Industry Night at Boujis Royal Salute Cointreau Masterclass The World of Beer HOFEX 2015 Macau Bartender of the Year 2014
Cocktail Club Craft Cocktails with a Twist
63
Profile
34 48 63 57 85 94 111
Agave Goodness
Drink
52 76
34 48
Cocktail Drinking Culture
Gin 1495 Belvedere Vodka Snow Leopard: “Spirit with a Soul” Ardbeg The World of González Byass Boschendal Wines
Meet
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20 27 60 65 74 90 102 90 114
Shingo Gokan: Bacardi Legacy HK 2012 Winner Tim Stones: Beefeater Global Brand Ambassador Tunny Grattidge Tequila Mockingbird Knut Randhem Alfred Cointreau Sergi Rostoll Miquel Sabrià Bernabeu
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° FEATURE °
2015
BACARDÍ LEGACY
KICKS OFF IN HONG KONG “
It ain’t over ‘til it’s over.” For the eight finalists of the Hong Kong leg of Bacardí Legacy, the game is still on.
Kicking off in July 2014, the 2nd Annual Bacardí Legacy Cocktail Competition saw 40 bartenders from leading bars in Hong Kong and Macau competing in the first round. From this number, the judges – Reeve Yip, Agung Prabowo and DWA’s own Marc Rodrigues – selected 20 of the best recipes to complete the second round last September. Reeve Yip remarked, “This year’s heat was very competitive. I was so impressed by the overall standard of the entrants. It’s completely a step up from last year. I’ve had the chance to explore a number of the city’s new talents, and few of them did surprise me with their performance during the regional heats. Choosing the top 8 to compete in the final was a difficult job. This year though, contestants were judged at their venues, so they were more relaxed and performed even better.” Reeve added, “The final eight bartenders were amazing. They all have unique and bright characters. Kervin Unido and Dorothy Lam from Flint are my biggest find this year. These two created sublime cocktails with beautiful stories and presentations. ‘Padre Blanco’ from Kervin is a simple but elegant cocktail with his Southeast flavours while Dorothy’s ‘In Other Words’ comes with a package by featuring Frank Sinatra’s song, ‘Fly me to the Moon’. “Not to mention some of the experienced ones in the industry such as Alex Chatté, Devender Sehgal and Bruno Santos. Alex Chatté’s ‘El Coco’s Revival’ has a strong belief in Bacardí’s history, but still, a very Chatté style drink, which is an elegant, complex aperitif. Devender’s ‘Optimist’ is a savoury, easy to make traditional Legacy style cocktail while Bruno’s ‘Voyager’ features his Portuguese and Macanese heritage by using port wine and his signature Colonial syrup. “Of course, cool folks like Suraj Gurung, Alex Ng and Austen Lendrum were also strong competitors this year. Suraj’s ‘Mindy’ has a nice flavour combination using thyme and bitters while Alex Ng’s ‘The Newborn’ is an innovative concoction featuring the Chinese sweetened vinegar, which is quite unusual in cocktail making. Austen’s ‘New Era’ julep is a floral and subtle version of rum julep using fig preserve and spiced rum. “I can’t wait to see their performance in the final which will be held at my brand-new bar – Casa Bacardí – in March. The winner will be announced at a Gala Dinner in the exclusive Roof Garden of the Shangri-La Hotel, followed by a celebration at Stockton. To whoever will be crowned the winner, I hope he or she can make it to the Top 8 in the global final in Sydney.”
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2015年Bacardi Legacy調酒大賽 对于Bacardi Legacy调酒大赛香港站的八位决赛选手来说,比 拼尚未完结。第二届酒坛盛事Bacardi Legacy调酒大赛在2014 年7月展开,首轮赛事吸引40位港澳调酒师参加,并由Reeve Yip、Agung Prabowo和Marc Rodrigues担任评判,选出20位晋身 去年九月的第二轮比赛。 Reeve Yip说:“今年的预赛竞争激烈,参赛者的水平更胜往 年。很高兴能在预赛遇上一些后起之秀,他们的表现令我刮目 相看,所以要选出八位决赛选手并不容易。不过,今年的参赛 者在工作场地接受评选,所以更加挥洒自如。” 他又说:“跻身决赛的八名调酒师各有所长,风格出 众。Kervin Unido和Flint的Dorothy Lam的表现尤其亮眼,他们的 作品不但有精彩的故事,而且卖相一流。Kervin的Padre Blanco 简单优雅,充满东南亚风情,而Dorothy的In Other Words更配上 Frank Sinatra的名曲《Fly me to the Moon》,扣人心弦。” “不得不提的是Alex Chatté、Devender Sehgal和Bruno Santos这 些资深的调酒师。Alex的El Coco’s Revival既向Bacardi的历史 致敬,也充满个人风格,层次细腻丰富。Devender的Optimist 味道出众,是简单而隽永的传统鸡尾酒,而熟悉葡萄牙和 澳门文化的Bruno,则以波特酒和充满殖民风格的糖浆打造 Voyager。” “Suraj Gurung、Alex Ng和Austen Lendrum等人当然也不容 小觑。Suraj的Mindy以百里香和苦精调出迷人的味道,Alex的 Newborn创新地采用中式甜醋,带来耳目一新的口味。Austen的 New Era Julep以无花果酱和混合香料的朗姆酒调配成充满花香 的朗姆薄荷酒。” “三月举行的决赛将会在我的新酒吧Casa Bacardi举行,令人 期待。主办单位会在香格里拉酒店的天台花园举行盛大晚宴, 同场公布冠军得主,并会在Stockton举行祝捷派对。不论冠军 谁属,希望这位优胜者也能跻身悉尼全球决赛的八强。”
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2015
BACARDÍ LEGACY
HONG KONG TOP 8 FINALISTS
Alex Chatté | Bibo Cocktail: El Coco’s Revival Ingredients • 60ml Bacardí Superior • 30ml Bacardí Oakheart • 1 barspoon Cassonade • 3 drops Black Walnut Bitters Method Rinse vanilla-infused Bleue Clandestine Absinthe. Garnish and serve with vanilla and coconut glazed straw. Inspiration behind the cocktail El Coco’s Revival is inspired by several parts of Bacardí’s history. To a degree, the brand and I share many similarities. Like Bacardí, my French family emigrated to Hong Kong in the late 80s. And knowing the spirit which saw Bacardí through every challenge and ordeal, I wanted to
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show what it has always been – a bold, super premium rum. As to the name, Coco is taken from the coconut tree planted in front of the Bacardí distillery in Cuba. Furthermore, I believe that Bacardí will soon be back to dominate and show how strong they are as a family, brand and business, hence, the Revival. Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? It is my aim to win a global competition and to win Bacardí Legacy – one of the world’s biggest cocktail competitions – would be a great honour for me. Representing Hong Kong in the global final would not only be an opportunity to showcase my talent, but also a chance to bring more recognition to Hong Kong bartenders. If I
had grown up here, I would be very humbled to bring home such a prestigious award. What are you doing for your most promising period? For the most promising period, I have my cocktail listed on five continents. In addition, I am hosting a few revival events locally at the Lobster Bar and looking to have one in Singapore as well as in France at a ski station. I am also promoting my drink on Facebook and in press-related articles, including foodie magazines and more. Likewise, I have contacted a few names in the industry to have some support in promoting my cocktail. I have also put together a presentation package of what my legacy is all about.
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Alex Ng | Little LAB Cocktail: The Newborn Ingredients • 30ml Bacardí Carta Oro (Gold) • 20ml Bacardí Oakheart • 10ml Lime Juice • 25ml Sweetened Vinegar • Top-up Ginger Beer Method Flow Garnish Sweetened Vinaigrette & Quail Egg Glassware Chinaware / Rocks Glass Inspiration behind the cocktail The Newborn is mainly inspired by the Chinese
tradition of serving sweetened vinegar and ginger stew whenever a baby is born. This cocktail is a twist of the classic Dark N Stormy, which carries a certain level of sweetness, botanicals and a touch of herbs combined with citrusy and gingery flavours. I tried to regenerate the classic taste by introducing sweetened vinegar and ginger. And instead of the original Bermuda rum, I used Bacardí Carta Oro (Gold) and Oakheart to provide a mellow and smooth taste. Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? Bacardí Legacy is an exceptional program that takes into account the overall bartending needs. I am privileged to be part of such a worldclass event. It brought me to the other level
of bartending, from the drink creation to the organisation of promotions, which involved a lot of planning and efforts. Not only does it help build a bartender’s career step by step, but it also foster camaraderie and cooperation among the people in the industry. What are you doing for your most promising period? I have promoted my legacy drink on Facebook, Instagram and my own website. I also did guest shifts in different venues to promote my drink locally and the rest of Asia.
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Austen Lendrum | HoniHoni Tiki Cocktail Lounge Cocktail: New Era Ingredients • 35ml Bacardí Superior • 25ml Bacardí Oakheart • 10 Mint Leaves • 1 Orange Wedge • 2 tsp Fig Jam • 2 dashes Creole Bitters Method Mint Sprig and Fig Garnish Muddle and swizzle Glassware Julep Cup Inspiration behind the cocktail To create a new form of an old classic cocktail, bringing in flavours from all around the world such as fig and Creole bitters, is the inspiration behind New Era.
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Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? So far, my Bacardí Legacy experience has been quite eventful. I have managed to accomplish things during this competition that I thought I would have needed more experience and acknowledgment to attain, such as guest bartending and having my cocktail in menus, etc. As a young bartender only being behind the bar for a little over two years, I would have to thank the Bacardí company for helping me to quicken my time to reach my targets in life. To win this competition would be most definitely a life-changing moment for me. It would likely be one of the most precious accolades a bartender like me could earn and a valuable lesson in the future of bartending. What are you doing for your most promising period? For my most promising period, I have planned and already set in motion multiple guest
bartending events where I will be promoting not only my cocktail but also Bacardí as a brand. I have also managed to secure my Bacardí Legacy cocktail in my own venue’s new menu. Of course my cocktail has so much personality that I decided to give it a Facebook page where one can learn a new thing about my drink, what is it inspired on and the history and many fun facts about Bacardí. Finally, I will be setting up small pop-up shops during several events where I will be making and promoting the New Era julep to the consumers who I will expect will come back for more.
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Bruno Santos | Macau Bar Concept Cocktail: Voyager Ingredients • 30ml Bacardí Superior Rum • 60ml Tawny Port Wine • 15ml Homemade Colonial Syrup *Add to 500ml of Heated 1:1 Simple Syrup, Half of Vanilla Pod, 2 Crushed Black Cardamoms, 2 Crushed Slices of Fresh Ginger • 15ml Freshly Squeezed Lemon Juice • 10ml Egg White (Optional) • Orange Twist Method Shake Garnish Orange Zest of the Crusades Glassware Cocktail Glass
Inspiration behind the cocktail The Voyager is inspired by Macau’s cultural heritage and economic trade, where West meets East. This cocktail will make one taste and experience more than 500 years of flavours that can be traced to the original Spices’ Routes. Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? It has been truly an awesome experience as it has not only been a competition, but also a series of self-promoting and interesting bar activities. I’m very happy to be a part of it and being one of the eight finalists. So to win the competition, I don’t know... There are no words to describe it. What are you doing for your most promising period? I decided to promote more this competition through trainings in as many cocktail venues
as possible. As the only finalist from Macau, I have been engaging people and getting them interested in this event for the future. As for my recipe, I’m promoting it online and encouraging my friends all over the world to make it in their own bars. I also created a small recipe business card so I can easily give it to anybody I meet. This way, people can try to do it themselves or ask their bartender to concoct it for them.
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Devender Kumar | Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA Cocktail: The Optimist Ingredients • 52.5ml Bacardí White • 22.5ml Ginger Syrup & Honey Water • Handful of Basil Leaves • 22.5ml Lime Juice Method Shake and double strain Garnish Thin Slice of Cucumber Floating on Top Glassware Coupe (Yellow Chartreuse Rinsed) Inspiration behind the cocktail Simple yet delicious – this is the inspiration behind The Optimist. This cocktail is a great example of a well-balanced drink where every ingredient plays its own role on the palate. Rum is the star of this cocktail, so I have carefully selected ingredients that go very well with each other, rather than dominating one another. The name also pays tribute to the spirit of the Bacardí family for producing one of the world’s
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finest rums in the most difficult of times with a spirit of true optimism. Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? I take great pride in being a part of Bacardí Legacy this year. I’ve returned to the competitive format after two years, and I am very glad that I am competing in such a prestigious event. I have a very strong emotional connection with Bacardí as I was a part of the competition in its previous avatar – the BMGP – in 2009 and having won the India leg, took me to Europe for the first time. Bacardí Legacy has been fun and a huge learning for me. Not only has the competition brought me closer to my peers and seniors in Hong Kong’s bar trade, but it also made me come up with a plan to showcase my best performance. Also, through my cocktail, The Optimist, I have been able to get my guests at Otto to try it and also make it at home and tweet about it. In all, it has been an exhilarating experience so far, and I can’t wait for the competition in March.
To win the competition would be the most successful highlight of my professional career so far. And for me as an Indian, representing Hong Kong in the global final would be a great opportunity to showcase HK’s multiculturalism and tolerance towards anyone who comes here with a dream. What are you doing for your most promising period? I have been actively promoting my cocktail at Otto e Mezzo, and I have guests who come in with their friends very frequently to order my drink. I have also reached out to my colleagues and associates in the industry across the world to spread the popularity of my cocktail. I have pictures, messages and mails from fellow bartenders, guests and professionals alike from New Delhi, Johannesburg, Bangalore, Nairobi, Mumbai, Sri Lanka and Singapore who have tried and made my drink at their bars and at home for themselves and their friends and have enjoyed the same. I plan to present this in the form a pictorial powerpoint during the finals.
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Dorothy Lam | Flint Grill & Bar Cocktail: In Other Words Ingredients • 60ml Bacardí Superior • 10ml Martini Rosso • 1 Fig • 10ml Honey • 15ml Lemon Juice • 15ml Egg White Method Muddle fig, then add all other ingredients and blend well with a hand blender. Shake well with ice and double strain into a coupe glass. Zest with an orange peel. Garnish Honeyed Fig Glassware Coupe Glass Inspiration behind the cocktail Inspired by the classic jazz ‘Fly Me to the Moon,’ this romantic drink is a representation of the faithful love between Bacardí’s founder, Don Facundo de Bacardí Masso, and his wife,
Doña Amalia, who suggested the legendary bat logo. The harmony of fig and honey typifies the support between the couple whilst the rich flavour profile symbolises the lovers’ ups and downs. Take a sip, feel the love and dance in the melody and journey to the moon with ‘In Other Words.’ Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? To me, Bacardí Legacy is not simply about making a legendary drink; it’s more about gathering people around through the cocktail. Over the course of the competition, it’s a friends’ reunion day. Many of my good friends have dropped by to show their support, and I have received a lot of help from friends around and even overseas. Lastly, this competition has allowed me to meet many new friends. As the bat logo symbolises family unity, I am truly blessed to be surrounded by my loved ones and being brought together and united in romance through one drink – In Other Words. Winning the competition and representing Hong Kong in the global final would mean a lot
to me. It’s not only about being proud of myself, but also a proof of women standing out in this men dominated industry. What are you doing for your most promising period? Other than putting my drink in our own bar’s menu, I have created a Facebook page and going around guest bartending in different bars. That way, my cocktail would reach and attract the biggest crowd. I just want to let more people try my drink and feel the romance not only in Hong Kong, but all over the world as well. I’m also inviting my friends overseas to make my drink in their bars. Moreover, every cocktail comes with a sealed ‘love letter’ with the recipe inside, so people can either prepare the drink at home or hand it to bartenders for an ‘In Other Words.’
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Kervin Unido | Flint Grill & Bar Cocktail: Padre Blanco Ingredients • 44ml Bacardí Superior Rum • 30ml Guava Juice • 22ml Freshly Squeezed Lime Juice • 14ml White Vinegar • 1 barspoon Agave Nectar • 2 Lime Leaves Method Shake Garnish Lime Leaf Glassware Coupette Glass Inspiration behind the cocktail Inspired by the story of Papa Hemingway or Ernest Hemingway, I named my cocktail Padre Blanco (White Father). In history, a person who is called ‘White Father’ has one mission, and that is to help people such as providing shelter and food, and preach about God. A prolific writer, Hemingway took a big part and such heroic role during the World War.
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As a tribute to Hemingway, I created a variation of a Daiquiri but more complex. I added a few healthy ingredients, such as guava juice, vinegar and lime leaf, for cocktail lovers who are diabetic like Hemingway and those with high blood pressure and heart disease. I also used Agave nectar, considered as a sweetener and 101 per cent recommended for diabetics when mixing drinks. This healthy drink is for anyone to consume – when they like it, they can always come back for it. Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? This is my first time to join Bacardí Legacy and for me, it’s the best competition I have taken part so far. It’s very challenging especially in the last semifinals where the judges talked to you and gave you critics whilst making your legacy drink. The pressure was high. Because of Bacardí Legacy, I finally experienced guest bartending in select bars in Hong Kong. I got plenty of exposure, and I met a lot of new friends and great people in the industry. For me to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final would be the biggest challenge
of my life. Not only would it be my first time to represent a country and compete in such a very big competition, but people in the industry would place their hope on me as well. With that hope, I would try to do my very best to win. What are you doing for your most promising period? Apart from guest bartending, I put my cocktail in our bar’s menu and took pictures of guests ordering it. I also did a training session in our hotel and at Aqua Spirit about the history of Bacardí and the inspiration behind my legacy drink. In addition, I collaborated with bartenders in other countries who participated in Bacardí Legacy and asked them to replicate my drink in their bars. That way, my cocktail would be marketed not just in Hong Kong, but in other countries too. This would also prove that my drink could be easily made anywhere. Moreover, I created an Instagram account and a Facebook page where I can post photos from my guest shifts, of guests who ordered my drink and of the bars that featured my cocktail. So, people in Hong Kong and other countries would know what’s happening, who I am and what’s my drink about.
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Suraj Gurung | Stockton Cocktail: Mindy Ingredients • 45ml Bacardí Superior Rum • 15ml Egg White • 30ml Thyme Infused Cointreau • 5ml Cane Syrup • 20ml Lime Juice • 2 dashes Angostura Bitters Method Add all ingredients in a shaker and do a reverse shake. Double strain into a coupe and garnish. Garnish Thyme, Dehydrated Lime Wheel and Peychaud’s Bitters Glassware Champagne Coupe Inspiration behind the cocktail My legacy cocktail was inspired by my grandmother, Mindy. A loving, caring and charismatic woman, she took care of me and my siblings. My drink is a tribute to her and all the women around the world. For without them,
none of us would be here. I wouldn’t be in this position to be making this tipple. For my cocktail, I used Bacardí Superior as the protagonist and added egg white for viscosity and texture. Cointreau-infused thyme lent a sweet and sour element. I also used some lime juice, cane syrup and Angostura bitters to add a little Caribbean flair.
What are you doing for your most promising period? I have been promoting my drinks in different venues such as the Blue Butcher, Stockton, Lobster Bar and Boujis. I am also promoting my drinks on social media and planning to do more pop-up events in the coming days.
Tell us about your Bacardí Legacy experience and what will it mean to you to win and represent Hong Kong in the global final? Taking part in the competition has helped me realise that this industry is so huge, and I have much more to learn. It’s not just about meeting new faces, but also learning as I move forward, becoming more active in and out of the bar, and improving my personality. Winning the Legacy means the world to me. Since I stepped into the bar, it has been my ultimate goal. And I am thankful enough to have made it to the Final 8. Even competing with so many well-talented barmates was an opportunity. And as representing Hong Kong is one of my bucket list, winning the title would be more meaningful to me.
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Shingo Gokan T
he winner of the 2012 Bacardi Legacy Global Cocktail Competition, Shingo continues to make a name for himself in the industry by opening his own speakeasy bar in Shanghai – Speak Low.
DRINKS WORLD ASIA: What or who inspired you to enter Bacardi Legacy 2012? SHINGO GOKAN: In 2011, Bacardi US Brand Ambassador Juan Coronado told me to enter Bacardi Legacy now that it has become a global competition. He inspired and helped me; I don’t think I could have won without him. As my first ever competition, I was delighted to be the winner. DWA: Tell us a little about your campaign that year? SG: The focus of the Global Campaign was not that intense when it came to marketing. The focus was more on true, original idea. I was inspired by 2011 winner, Marc Bonneton, with his twist on a Ramos Gin Fizz. I was able to make the drink at Angel’s Share in New York where I used to work and so was able to do promotion this way. The other finalists and I spent a week in Puerto Rico learning about the history of Bacardi rum. We visited the Bacardi Rum Distillery in Catano, Puerto Rico, shared skills and techniques with our fellow mixologists, and learned bartending philosophies and expertise from some of the industry’s most influential people. DWA: How has winning Bacardi Legacy changed your life? What opportunities arose as a result? SG: Winning the final had given me the chance to travel with David Cordoba, the Bacardi Global Brand Ambassador, and present my drink in a number of different cities around the world. It has been an incredible journey. I also finally got the opportunity to go back home to Japan from New York, which was something I was not able to do for a long time after the earthquake struck in 2011. In addition, I was able to apply for an artist’s visa, which had allowed me to launch my new bar, Speak Low. I also did guest bartending at The American Bar at The Savoy in London, which was a dream come true for me. I also had the opportunity to work with Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto on his project, Japonias, creating cocktails for his new shochu and sake bar. Lastly, I was privileged to travel and actually judge several of the Bacardi Legacy rounds in 2013, which was another amazing experience for me and something close to my heart.
DWA: It had inspired you to name your new bar after it? SG: Without Bacardi, it might not have been possible to launch Speak Low. The drink itself is very personal to me as well as the competition. Inspired by my grandmother’s tea presentation and ceremony, Speak Low has other connotations. Jazz is special to me. The tune is a jazz standard that has been widely recorded by vocal artists from Billie Holiday to The Miracles to Dee Dee Bridgewater, and such instrumentalists as Bill Evans, Roy Hargrove, Woody Shaw and Brian Bromberg, Ella Fitzgerald and Joe Pass. The name inspires the song, the city of New York – where I lived and worked in one of the city’s original modern speakeasies – so it’s a perfect fit. DWA: Tell us the concept of Speak Low and what makes it unique? SG: I work for Angel’s Share, which was the first speakeasy in New York City in contemporary times. It’s been there for 20 years, so that’s my base. I wanted something with a speakeasy style but also something different and unique, so I made three speakeasies in one building. All three levels are hidden. The first one is a cocktail convenience store. Behind the bookshelf, there’s one bar. When you go upstairs, you need to push the button to get to another speakeasy. And on another floor, there’s a sign saying ‘employees only’; you can get inside there if you are a member. DWA: Why did you choose Shanghai to open your first bar? Why not New York? SG: Shanghai is such a mixed city; the scene has something for everyone. I got a feeling about the city even before I went there – that I would want to work there. I felt the same with New York. Shanghai is also closer to home, which is good for me. One of my partners is based here; rent here is reasonable, and the bar scene is very up and coming. The scene feels very international and no different to New York. Everyone is looking for new experiences. The city has so much energy so it’s an exciting place to be right now. DWA: Future plans? SG: I have an idea for a food and cocktail pairing bar in New York, but that is all I will say on the project for now. Speak Low has my full attention at the moment.
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° FEATURE °
BEEFEATER MIXLDN
Showdown in Hong Kong I
t was a showdown of Hong Kong’s finest bartenders at the Beefeater Cocktail Competition last November.
Beefeater – one of the world’s leading super premium gins – has deep British roots as Hong Kong. In keeping with tradition, the competition was held on the iconic red double-decker London bus. The top deck of the Beefeater branded bus was converted into a bar so competing bartenders could do what they came to do – make great tasting Beefeater cocktails! The event kicked off with bartenders arriving at Pier 9 in Central and greeted with canapés and cocktails prepared by the legendary Tim Stones, Beefeater Brand Ambassador. Tim was also one of the judges, along with Darren Hoise (Pernod Ricard) and Marc Rodrigues (Drinks World Asia).
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Each bartender had to make a traditional English cocktail and a drink of their choice. Stepping away from tradition, bartenders mixed their cocktails behind the bar without the judges watching their every move. This competition wasn’t about style or technique but how great the cocktails tasted. Because let’s face it – Hong Kong bartenders know how to make a drink. With over 10 bartenders competing on the day, there can only be one winner. Neil Rivington from Aberdeen St Social took home the coveted Beefeater title. His cocktails were balanced, presented well and in true ‘Rivington style’, packed a punch and heroed Beefeater Gin. Runner-up was Bryson Rivera from Flint Bar & Grill, who won for himself a six-month brand ambassador contract with Pernod Ricard.
Runner-up Bryson Rivera from Flint Bar
Winner Neil Rivington from Aberdeen St Social
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° FEATURE °
BEEFEATER MIXLDN
Global Final
A
fter becoming Hong Kong’s national champion, I was off to London – home of Beefeater – for the global competition. Themed “London Inspires You. You Inspire London”, the event brought finalists from 30 countries together to the Capital for the grand finale. WORDS ° Neil Rivington
THE FIRST DAY... Contestants arrived in dribs and drabs throughout the day from London itself to the other side of the globe. I checked in at London’s hottest new hotel, the Mondrian at Sea Containers, located on the South Bank of the River Thames. We were greeted by our guides and illustrious leaders for the next few days, Beefeater Global Ambassadors Tim Stones and Sebastian Hamilton-Mudge. As with the nature of our chosen path, we all immediately became friends and started playing the “do you know so and so” game, and we did to some degree of separation or another. Our competition adventure started where it all began – at the Beefeater distillery.
We were split into groups and taken to different aspects of the making and history of this distillery. My group started with the process of making the famous gin. Who better to tell the magic than the Master Distiller himself, Desmond Payne. Desmond became Master Distiller in 1995 and was entrusted with ensuring the style, flavour and history of Beefeater remained consistent since its creation back in 1876. After the session with him, we were met by Sebastian Hamilton-Mudge. Seb as we call him, took us to the Visitor Centre highlighting the history of not only the Beefeater but also gin and the effects it had in ages up to the modern day. Tim Stones took us on a journey to the
botanicals used to make the Beefeater London Dry and Beefeater 24. As we went down into the caverns, we were greeted by the smells of juniper, Seville oranges, lemon peels, angelica roots and seeds, coriander seeds, liquorice, almonds and orris roots. These are all blended to a specific recipe handed down over the years and kept in a locked box. Once all tours were completed, we all met at the distillery bar where we were treated to a selection of cocktails, punches and G&Ts before heading off for dinner.
THE SECOND DAY... We got invited to watch the ‘Ceremony of the Keys’, a tradition that takes place every night
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at exactly 9:53pm since the 14th century. After the ceremony, we ventured into the ‘Tower of London Club’ where all the Beefeaters head to for a well-deserved beer or G&T after work. Time to get serious… After breakfast, we head out to the venue which was kept a secret until that day. We climbed aboard the traditional red double-decker bus emblazoned with the Beefeater logo and our names next to our respective country. Our trip ended at a converted warehouse – spread
over three floors – in Bermondsey, South East London. The ground and top floors are the competition areas while the middle floor served as the waiting room. We were divided into two groups and given our briefing for the next two days that included cocktail presentation, food experience, botanical experience, photo shoot, interviews and a surprise section. Everyone was also given his/ her individual timings for the next few days. As with all competitions this size, there was a lot of waiting around to do, but thankfully Beefeater had done their work. The waiting room was equipped with a PS4 and FIFA seemed to be the game of choice. There was enough food and drink to feed an army and a lounging space if you needed a nap. Then it was time for my cocktail presentation. It’s a bit unusual as competitions go. Instead of making my drink in front of the judges, I was filmed while preparing it. I was then led to the back where I did my presentation to the judges, including Desmond Payne (Master Distiller), Ryan Chetiyawardana (Mr Lyan himself of ‘The White Lyan’ fame) and Dave Broom (renowned whiskey specialist). I was then taken to a photo shoot; how well you worked with the cameraman goes towards your overall marks. From there, I was led to a journalist and as with the judges, presented my cocktail and inspiration behind it. Up next was the ‘Food Experience’ hosted by Executive Chef Luke Rayment of the Mondrian Hotel. He took us through his process of putting together dishes, textures and flavours, breaking them down and reconstructing them. Much like we do with drinks. All to give you a whole new experience with something you are used to. This led to the ‘Surprise Section’, where each one of us was ushered back into the room and given a dish to taste. We were given 20 minutes
BRICKLANE Ingredients • Beefeater London Dry • Rioja • Fresh Pineapple Juice • Lemon Juice • Sugar • Madras Curry Garnish Homemade curried pineapple crisps
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to create a cocktail to match. Then we presented this to Simon Difford of Diffords Guide, Sandrae Lawrence of Cocktail Lovers Magazine and Chef Luke himself.
THE FINAL DAY... The day began with Desmond and Ryan sharing fun talks on botanical, tasting and nosing skills and techniques. After lunch was consumed and G&Ts started to appear, Tim and Seb got up on stage. The once noisy and jovial room had now become dead silent. Then the eight finalists were announced and they included: Truls Thomsen (Norway), Roberto Rossi (Italy), Brandon Phillips (USA), Chris Nystroem (New Zealand), Artem Averin (Russia), Tomas Melzer (Czech Republic), Santiago Ortiz (Spain) and Peter Kunz (Austria). In the final showdown, these eight contenders were tasked with producing 50 of their cocktails into smaller portions and presenting these to everyone invited to the finale. Each guest was given a token to place to whom they felt was the best drink and inspiration. In the end, it was Brandon Phillips, Executive Bar Director at the Duck Inn in Chicago, who was declared the champion. His winning cocktail, ‘The Hackney Handshake’, was an ode to the hipsters of Hackney and is a blend of Beefeater London Dry, Manzanilla sherry, lemon juice, movie night syrup, egg white and soda, served with a side of Beefeater botanical dusted popcorn. In all, this was one of the best competitions I have been involved in, witnessed and came across with. Everything was timed perfectly and well executed. Hats off to Tim, Seb, Desmond and the rest of the team for such a wonderful experience. Until next year.
Inspiration behind the cocktail Bricklane is a street in East London famous for its curry houses, Indian and Pakistani alike. I used to live near this street for many years. My route took me down this lane nearly every day and night to and from work. The smell and energy here always brought a smile to my face. Two things came up: curry and red wine. Hence, I used Rioja and Madras curry in my drink in addition to London Dry, fresh pineapple juice, lemon juice and sugar. Garnish is homemade curried pineapple crisps.
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° MEET °
TIM STONES T
Beefeater Global Brand Ambassador
im has been in the alcohol business in various capacities – as a bartender, manager, waiter, barback, general dogsbody – since 1996. In February 2009, he joined Beefeater as its Global Brand Ambassador looking after markets in Canada, Mediterranean Europe, parts of Scandinavia, the Baltic States, Russia, Asia and Australasia. In his capacity, he goes around the world educating the trade, press and consumers on the delights of Beefeater and gin in general. When not travelling, he can be found at the Beefeater Distillery studying to become a gin distiller.
Tim Stones with Beefeater MIXLDN HK winner Neil Rivington (Left) and runner-up Bryson Rivera (Right)
The standard was obviously very high and it was great to see drinks from the countries that I didn’t judge. What always amazes me about this competition is the vast array of techniques, exotic ingredients and concepts that the competitors show. The great thing about putting 30 bartenders from different countries in the same place for a few days is that they all chat and share ideas, and then go home having learned something from each other.
Prior to joining Beefeater, Tim had worked at some of the best bars in London namely LAB, Ronnie Scott’s and Trailer Happiness. He had also been lucky enough to set up and run a bar in Mumbai. His dubious accolades included co-founding It’s A Rematch, Beeyatch! – a global speed bartending competition that now takes place regularly in over 30 countries worldwide. DRINKS WORLD ASIA: As part of the judging panel in Hong Kong, can you tell us about your experience? How was the level of competition in this market? TIM STONES: It’s great to see how the Hong Kong market is developing. Every time I visit, the level seems to go up. Hong Kong is becoming more and more important on the global cocktail scene. And that is evidenced by the fact that there are more and more international operators setting up there. Each time, they bring new ideas, not to mention the
homegrown talent of the likes of Antonio Lai. A few years ago, it seemed there was just a handful of exceptional cocktail bars. Now, that number is growing rapidly. I’m struggling to keep up. DWA: Tell us a bit about the global final in London. What’s so great about this year’s heat? TS: I wasn’t actually part of the judging in London. Since I had judged a lot of the national finals, I may have been a little biased when it came to London. As such, the judging was taken care of by a group of different people depending on the challenge. Desmond Payne, Ryan Chetiyawardana and Dave Broom judged the drinks whilst Luke Rayment, Sandrae Lawrence and Simon Difford took care of the food challenge. In the final event, London’s top bartenders, drinks professionals and journalists all judged the final 8 drinks.
DWA: Brandon Phillips emerged as the overall winner. Apart from making an exceptional cocktail, what did he do to stand out in the competition? TS: Brandon’s concept was great. He managed to link his drink to London and engaged the judges. This year, we wanted the competitors to link their drink to London – either through ingredients, style of drink, methods or story. Brandon managed to do it all very well. DWA: If you can give one piece of advice to Hong Kong bartenders for next year’s competition, what would it be? TS: This advice goes for everyone, not just for Hong Kong bartenders: read and fully understand the brief. For a brand such as Beefeater that has a strong link to London, as well as creating a delicious drink, we want to see bartenders tell a story about their cocktail. Use personal influences, stories and history to bring the drink to life. DWA: Can you share anything with us about next year’s Beefeater 24 competition? TS: I’m afraid I don’t have anything to share yet about next year’s competition as we are still planning it. But it will be equally as challenging as last year and hopefully, we’ll have even more countries taking part in it.
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° FEATURE °
HENDRICK’S Cocktail Competition 2014
I
t was Aili Nguyen’s turn to shine at the 2014 Hendrick’s Cocktail Competition. Aili, who works at the Origin, bested 22 other contenders and impressed the judges with her cocktail creation – Solarium of Roses.
“Winning Hendrick’s was unbelievable! There were no words to describe what I felt. When I did my presentation, I tried to think of the judges as guests. I just told myself to come out, do my best and enjoy the competition,” Aili expressed. “While the competition is about the cocktail itself, presentation is also important. During the event, one of the bartenders was dressed as a chef to introduce his corn soup-inspired cocktail in. I thought it was a great idea – he certainly stood out”, she added. Hosted at The Envoy, the competition saw 23 bartenders pitting against each other in a bid to win the prestigious title. The venue, decked with Hendrick’s Gin logo and roses, was filled with excitement as contestants started mixing drinks with amazing skill and speed. This year’s event was made possible thanks to Leung Yick Co Ltd, Uber Bar Tools and The Envoy.
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° FEATURE °
HENDRICK’S COCKTAIL COMPETITION 2014 WINNER:
AILI NGUYEN
from Origin
COCKTAIL: SOLARIUM OF ROSES Ingredients: • Hendrick’s Gin • Hendrick’s Quinine Cordial • Rose Liqueur • Homemade Breakfast Tea Syrup INSPIRATION BEHIND THE COCKTAIL A bartender’s life is not easy. We work long hours and mainly at night. So by the time we go home, our roommates are already asleep. When we wake up, they’re already gone to work – especially if they have 9 to 5 jobs. With the nature of our work, it’s hard to spend time with them. Drawing inspiration from this, I named my cocktail ‘Solarium of Roses’. Just like a solarium that admits sunlight and allows roses to grow, drinking this cocktail will make your day or night beautiful. It will also remind you that your friends are standing behind you and supporting you every step of the way.
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° FEATURE °
A Celebration of
the Unconventional
S
ome people don’t see things in black and white or simply right or wrong. There are those who go against the grain and defy conventions. They do things in an unusual way, and by so doing, motivate us to see things differently. G’Vine Perspectives is all about paying tribute to these unique individuals that push the boundaries of creativity.
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An initiative that sets out to celebrate the attitude of looking at things differently, G’Vine Perspectives evolved from G’Vine’s unconventional approach itself. Breaking from traditional gin-making, G’Vine Gin is crafted using grapes instead of grains. In addition, it is enlivened with ten botanicals including the rare vine flower from the brand’s legendary vineyards. Thanks to the vision of Founder and Master Distiller Jean-Sébastien Robicquet, a revolutionary who looks at the world with a different perspective, G’Vine Gin is a spirit that shakes up codes and conventions. And yet, it is crafted with the utmost respect for local heritage and the expertise of Maison Villevert. Bringing together innovation and authenticity, it is the result of a relentless pursuit of the extraordinary and a belief in the freedom to redefine the status quo. Jamie Walker, Global Trade Director, explained “We believe it is important to recognise those people that have challenged the norm, and in turn given us the strength to challenge our own perspectives. That’s the ethos our founder JeanSébastien Robiquet delivers in the production of G’Vine.”
The Global Challenge
Running until mid May, G’Vine Perspectives is a challenge that celebrates extraordinary people who have changed our perspective and inspired us to push the boundaries of creativity. The challenge has already gathered support from leading industry names from around the globe, including Gaz Regan, Ryan Chetiyawardana of White Lyan, Alex Kratena of Artesian and Jason Crawley of Australia’s The Drink Cabinet. These industry luminaries have created their own videos paying homage to an eclectic mix of inspirations such as Picasso, Dick Bradsell and Derren Brown. All interviews and videos can be found on the Challenge site at www.gvineperspectives.com. WHO CAN JOIN Bartenders from around the world are invited to choose an unconventional inspiration that they want to pay tribute to – someone they
once worked with, a legend they’ve always admired or an artist who has changed their view of the world and their craft for the better. They might be contemporary figures still pushing boundaries, name from the history books or someone plying their trade in the industry – perhaps a distiller, maître d’, trainer, bar owner, chef or food writer. Or they could be from other fields – maybe a fashion designer, photographer, musician, architect or filmmaker. They could be famous, unsung heroes or absolutely anyone.
HOW TO ENTER Entrants must submit a short video explaining who they have chosen and why, then pay homage to them with a unique G’Vine cocktail creation. Ten winners will be chosen from Australia, Asia, the UK, the US, Latin America, France, Germany, Spain, Portugal and Europe. WHAT’S AT STAKE The Grand Prize offers winners a unique 5-day money-can’t-buy experience in France – the home of G’Vine – as well as activities that evoke the challenge’s alternative perspectives ethos. KEY DATES TO MARK • March 30, 2015: Start of submission of entries • May 14, 2015: End of submission of entries • May 28, 2015: Announcement of winners • June 22-26, 2015: Trip to France
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° PROFILE °
Gin A 1495 Piece of History Recreated A
rebirth of a 500-year-old recipe, GIN 1495 is a grape-based spirit for the modern palate. It is distilled, refined and refreshed by EWG Spirits & Wine – creators of G’Vine Gin – from one of the earliest recorded recreational gin recipes dating back to 1495. The recipe was unearthed by drinks expert Philip Duff in an out-of-print Dutch-language history of Jenever. After some research, Philip discovered that the original came from the cookbook of a wealthy merchant in East Netherlands, which can be found in the collection of British physician and collector, Sir Hans Sloane. After Sloane’s death in 1753, the manuscripts became part of the original collection of the British Museum. These manuscripts now stand in the archives of The British Library. Oenologist, master distiller and EWG Spirits & Wine founder Jean-Sébastien Robicquet enlist the help of industry luminaries to verify the accuracy of the 1495 recipe. Spirit historians, mixologists and writers, including
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Dave Wondrich, Gary Regan, Dave Broom and Philip Duff, were invited to view the original manuscript at The British Library in London. Then the group travelled to Holland to visit the Jenever Museum in Schiedam to track the development, production and evolution of gin. The journey culminated at Villevert near Cognac, France where the EWG Spirits & Wine team has its wine distilling innovation centre. The team replicated the original recipe and created a modern interpretation with JeanSébastien. In addition to juniper, the grapebased gin recipe called for ginger, galangal, grains of paradise, cloves, cardamom, sage and nutmeg – a rare and precious commodity in the late 14th century.
“By taking this recipe apart and refreshing it for our modern era, we learnt so much more about the long and circuitous journey the spirit has taken through the centuries”, said Jean-Sébastien. “GIN 1495 is the fundamental expression of our business. It represents a search for knowledge, an insistence on quality, and a reliance on the skills that we draw from our heritage. We see the birth of gin, with a wine-based spirit, in 1495 and its rebirth today in 2014.” “The 1495 recipe is not just the first chapter in a rich history of gin – this historic recipe, based on grape distillate, is part of the very foundation of the category”, said Philip Duff.”
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asting Notes T
Comprised of two variants – Verbãtim, the 1495 original recipe and Interprĕtãtĭo, the modern interpretation – the Limited Edition GIN 1495 pack comes in a handmade book-style wooden box. Every aspect of production has taken place in the grounds of Villevert, and only 100 sets have been produced. These are not for sale but will be donated to various museums, spirits collections, archives and gin institutions around the world.
INTERPRĔTÃTĬO
VERBÃTIM
Inspired by the original recipe, this version is made using botanicals that are available today, but were not then.
A recreation that’s close to the original. It’s a powerful spirit with a great depth of flavour and long, lingering finish.
Nose: Assured aromas of juniper, citrus oil and rich spice
Nose: Audacious, warm spice, pepper and sage
Mouth: Opulent and substantial yet integrated and silky
Mouth: Encompassing, copious, lush
Finish: Structured, muscular, evolving to a temperate spice
Finish: Sincere, fluid, evolving, protracted with lavender spice
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° FEATURE °
AVIATION AMERICAN GIN Takes Flight in Hong Kong A
viation American Gin, the award-winning craft spirit from Portland Oregon’s House Distillery, was formally introduced to Hong Kong this past November at a highly anticipated launch event at Stone Nullah Tavern in Wan Chai. WORDS ° Frank X. Lonergan The event was well attended by food and beverage industry insiders, family, friends, press and, of course, gin enthusiasts from around Hong Kong, who enjoyed expertly executed Aviation American Gin cocktails prepared by Stone Nullah Tavern’s top-notch barmen. It didn’t take long before the standing room only crowd spilled out of the bar’s open french doors and onto historic Stone Nullah Lane creating an impromptu block party, albeit a stylish one… at least until Hong Kong’s finest “encouraged” the enthusiastic crowd back inside. Fortunately, this hardly dampened the mood as free-flowing gin cocktails and smooth beats by Hong Kong’s favourite DJ ReFlex kept the bar packed and spirits high throughout the evening. It’s no wonder why this event was so highly anticipated and well attended. As it turns out, Aviation American Gin has quite a following in Hong Kong, especially among those with an appreciation for small-batch, craft distilling. Hong Kong’s love for Aviation American Gin might have begun when Ryan Magarian, the brand’s co-founder, visited the Fragrant Harbour
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in late 2013 (see DWA Edition 6 / 2014) to spend time with a few of those who are helping to drive the craft cocktail movement here in Hong Kong, including the bar teams at Quinary, Fatty Crab, Origin, Ham and Sherry, Ronin, Butler, and more. During our 2014 interview with Mr. Magarian, he commented on the emergence of Hong Kong as a top tier craft spirit and cocktail service destination. Obviously, his assertion has been proven quite right. Not based only on the continued success of the venues mentioned above, but also by the opening of so many new fine establishments since; bars and restaurants that truly recognise the value of craft spirits as part of any comprehensive beverage program. Those close to the brand say that Aviation American Gin was founded during the summer of 2005 at a small tiki party in America’s Pacific North West. Mr. Magarian, already a well known barman in Seattle, Washington, was handed a complex summer botanical infusion by a friend from Portland, Oregon. Finding it unlike anything he had ever tasted, he quickly sought out its maker: Portland’s House Spirits Distillery. Recognising a common interest in spirit, cocktail, and food interactions, the distillers at House Spirits shared with Ryan their idea for a renegade regional gin style. In June of
2006 – after nearly 30 rounds of trials – Aviation American Gin took flight. Many believe this was the first brand partnership between a distiller and a bartender in American history. Founded in 2004, House Spirits Distillery serves as the anchor of Distillery Row, an inconspicuous collection of small warehouses and light industrial buildings in Portland, Oregon. Here, seven independent distilleries produce some of the most highly regarded, handcrafted spirits in America, many available for the first time since the country’s Prohibition period. It can be said that Distillery Row is the heart of America’s craft distilling movement – and as far
as House Spirits is concerned, it might as well be its brains too. The distillery is independently co-owned and led by beverage industry leader and Harvard University scholar, Thomas Mooney, who serves as the company’s CEO. The company’s Master Distiller (and co-founder), Christian Krogstad, is well regarded as one of the visionaries behind America’s craft distilling resurgence. Even legendary American Footballer, Joe Montana, is involved, serving as an investor and member of the company’s board of directors. Master Distiller Christian Krogstad likes to say that, “Aviation American Gin favours a
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° FEATURE °
democracy of botanicals over a dictatorship of juniper”, and one can certainly relate to this when drinking the spirit neat or as part of a cocktail. Aviation American Gin offers a truly balanced palate with notes of Indian sarsaparilla, cardamom and lavender, among others. Aviation belongs to an entirely new category of dry gins. These gins embody a shift away from the usual overabundance of juniper toward a more forward balance of botanicals. Aviation explores the rich, floral and savoury notes of lavender, cardamom, and sarsaparilla to capture the lushness, spice, creativity, and freshness of the Pacific Northwest. Today, Aviation American Gin is the top rated gin in the world according to Wine Enthusiast Magazine, which awarded the spirit with a score
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of 97 points. As any proper gin drinker knows, the classic Aviation cocktail, invented by barman Hugo Ensslin at New York’s Hotel Wallick almost a century ago, is a simple but unique balance of gin, maraschino liqueur and freshly squeezed lemon juice. Done right, it is one of the best cocktails in the world; proving, as Mr. Magarian says, that “gin, in the hands of a passionate and well trained bartender, just might be the world’s most mixable spirit.” Naming Aviation American Gin after such a classic cocktail was obviously intentional - but not without risk. If Aviation American Gin were to miss the mark, it might have done a great injustice to the legendary Hugo Ensslin. Fortunately, I believe Mr. Ensslin would have
been quite impressed with this modern craft spirit, named in his cocktail’s honour. Aviation American Gin can already be found at many of Hong Kong’s finest bars, restaurants, nightclubs and hotels. In addition, Woodside Wine + Spirits, the brand’s exclusive importer, marketer and distributor for Asia-Pacific, recently introduced the Aviation American Gin ‘pop-up’ airplane bar in Hong Kong. Made of antique aircraft aluminium and fully stocked, the bar will make appearances around Hong Kong at various events, venues, markets and fairs. Check in with Woodside Wine + Spirits (www. WWSHK.com) to find out where and when the Aviation American Gin airplane bar will land next. It’s a fine way to enjoy your first taste of true American Gin.
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° FEATURE °
HOW TO (The Basics of Bartending)
W
orking the floor or as a barback is a demanding job in itself, and you don’t want to make things harder by getting lost in the bartending mumbo-jumbo. Here are some basic terms to help you get by, and in no time, shaking, stirring and rolling like a pro. CHILL
SHAKE
This is one of the most important steps in cocktail making. Great restaurants serve their hot meals on warm plates, so cool cocktails should be served in chilled glassware. You can use a freezer or fridge, however, the quickest way is to fill the glassware with crushed or cracked ice and water. Make this simple step the first thing you do, and by the time you have mixed, muddled or shaken your creation, the glass will be at the perfect temperature and your cocktails will stay crisp and cool for longer. Before pouring the drink, you must empty the glass of the ice and water into a sink, and then shake vigorously to rid it of any remaining drops of water.
Shaking correctly is imperative to mix, dilute, chill, aerate and in some case emulsify cocktails. Whether you use a cobbler shaker with a built-in strainer, a Boston or a jam jar (yes it’s possible), the rules are the same. Add all your ingredients, fill the shaker with hard, cold ice. Seal the lid. Hold the shaker with both hands and shake it. SHAKE IT, really shake it. The shake motion is not a rocking motion or a maraca. The ice has to travel from one end of the shaker to the other and crash into the end of the shaker. This forces the liquids through the ice and chills them super fast. It also dilutes the drink to make it more palatable. 10 to 15 seconds is a good guideline. For drinks that include egg whites or cream you may need longer. By now, the outside of the shaker should have pearls of condensation covering it and your cocktail will be ready to strain. DRY SHAKE: Some cocktail recipes will require a dry shake prior to the regular shake. In a dry shake, an egg is added to the shaker in place of the ice. This is to ensure the ingredients properly emulsify, and generate a frothy or foamy texture that will form on top of the cocktail. If required, ice is then added to the shaker and a standard shake is performed.
MUDDLE Muddling in a mixing glass is essentially the same as chefs using a mortar and pestle; you are crushing the ingredients to extract the freshest flavours and juices. For soft fruits like berries, the muddling technique itself involves pushing down and twisting until you have a puree. For citrus fruits, just muddle enough to extract the juice; over muddle and you introduce bitterness from the oils in the skin. For herbs (mint, coriander, basil, etc.) gently press them a few times with your muddle or with the flat disk on a bar spoon.
MEASURE Measuring ingredients is exceptionally important in recreating cocktails, and it’s easy if you have a jigger or measuring cup. Simply pour the ingredient into the measure (over the mixing glass) then add to the mix. Don’t let mls, cls, or liquid ounces confuse you. Great drinks can still be made without a measure, just make sure the ratios are correct and you can use anything - an egg cup, shot glass, bottle caps, etc. Some ingredients, like bitters, are really intense and only a dash is required.
STRAIN Straining holds back the broken and used ice while you pour your drink. Simply place the strainer firmly onto the mouth of the metal tin (or jam jar), place your index finger over the top of the strainer to hold it in place, then wrap your hand around the tin and pour the drink through the strainer into a chilled glass.
FINE STRAIN Cocktails that contain flecks of herbs or pulpy fruits after muddling or shaking can create an unwelcome texture using only a regular strainer. For a silky smooth cocktail, while also preventing embarrassing moments of torn leaves on teeth, simply pour the cocktail from the shaker with the regular strainer through a fine mesh strainer (tea strainer) held over the chilled glass.
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째 FEATURE 째
Chill
Muddle
Measure
Shake
Strain
Fine Strain
...
s r e d n e t r e ba h t y b d resse p m i e b st Don't ju
R I E H T LEARN
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! E G A LANGU
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STIR
BUILD
Stirring is a technique for chilling and mixing a cocktail without the extra dilution you get when shaking. Stirring is traditionally used to make drinks that contain just alcoholic ingredients and the desired texture is silky with a weighty flavour. Add your ingredients to a mixing glass, add cold hard ice cubes to the top, grab your long handled bar spoon and place the outside of the spoon end against the inside of the mixing glass, and carefully slide it to the bottom. Keeping the spoon completely upright, gently stir the drink clockwise or anticlockwise so that the ice and booze rotate as one. At all times, attempt to prevent jagging or breaking up the ice. Stir time will depend on the ice used, the room temperature and your technique. When condensation builds up on the outside of the mixing glass, you are ready to strain into the awaiting chilled glass.
Building is the quickest and easiest way to make a cocktail. These are normally drinks that do not need extra chilling or dilution and the ingredients mix easily. The quintessential built drinks are spirits and mixers, i.e. gin and tonic, vodka and cranberry juice. To build a drink, simply grab the glass (usually a highball or Collins glass) and fill it with ice then add the ingredients in order. It is important to add as much ice to the glass as possible; more ice means less dilution and the cocktail will be nice and cold. The ratios are roughly one part alcoholic ingredients to three or four parts mixer. You may need to give the ingredients a quick stir with your bar spoon.
THROW The throwing technique is a very flashy way of aerating and chilling a drink. It is unusual to see it being used in many bars today, however, when honed can be very impressive, and eventually you can “throw” a stream of liquid a metre in length. To throw, first build the drink with ice in a mixing glass, using a strainer to hold the ice back pour the contents into an empty shaker tin. As you pour from one to the other, steadily increase the distance between the two by raising the ice filled glass, whilst lowering the shaker tin. Keeping the shaker tin slightly tilted will prevent splashing. When you’re left with just ice in the mixing glass, simply pour the cocktail mix from the shaker tin back into the mixing glass and repeat the process three to four more times. When your drink is suitably chilled and aerated simply pour into a chilled glass and serve. ROLL: This is the most gentle of the mixing techniques, and is used when it is important not to overmix a drink. It is most commonly used to mix the Bloody Mary because tomato juice loses its thickness and becomes thin when agitated. To roll a drink, hold your filled shaker tin next to an empty one. Then pour the contents back and forth between the two shaker tins a few times, keeping the shaker tins close together.
RIM A great way of adding texture and complementary flavours to a cocktail is to coat the rim of the glass, where one sips from, with salt, sugar, or any kind of coating, fine chocolate or cinnamon for example. Fill a shallow saucer with the crystals or powder of your choice, and run a slice of orange or lemon around the outside of the rim of the glass. The whole perimeter of the glass should be moist. To prevent the rimming ingredient getting in the drink, roll the outside of the glass in the saucer until the rim is coated and then, holding the glass upside down, gently tap the base; any loose particles will not stay inside the glass.
LAYER Sipping hot Irish coffee through a layer of fresh cold cream is a taste sensation. The trick to layering is to turn a spoon upside down, place it inside the edge of the glass and lower it slowly down the inside, very gently break the surface tension of the liquid and then raise the spoon slightly. Pour the layer as slowly as possible over the back of the spoon, moving the spoon up as the level rises. Repeat the process with as many layers as you require. When creating layered shots, it’s imperative to know the specific gravity of each spirit or liqueur you’re working with, and pour them in order from heaviest to lightest.
GARNISH It’s a well known fact that we eat with our eyes first, obviously that’s mechanically impossible. However, when a meal or drink looks tasty, it stimulates our senses and our body prepares itself for a taste sensation. Garnishing is a huge part of this, and therefore it’s important that the garnish is relevant and complementary to the ingredients. For example, the flamed orange zest on a Cosmopolitan works because the orange oils enhance the orange flavour from the Cointreau. Almost any fresh fruit, vegetable, berry, herb or spice can be used as a garnish. Fresh fruits and berries provide lots of contrasting colour and taste great. Vegetables are great savoury additions, like a stick of celery in a Bloody Mary. Herbs and spices add aroma, think mint sprigs on Juleps or grated nutmeg on an Alexander. Of course olives, cocktail onions and maraschino cherries are classic cocktail garnishes, and bartenderlore says always garnish with odd numbers. It is crucial to use only the freshest and highest-quality fruits, vegetables and herbs. Prepare your garnish just before you make your drinks, and make sure the garnish complements the drink.
FLAME Some drinks require the zest to be flamed; this is essentially the same as a twist, except you’re squeezing the oils through a flame to ignite them. Using a match or lighter, hold the flame next to the glass in one hand, then with the zest held between your thumb and forefingers of your other hand, place the zest next to the flame and then squeeze the zest quickly so that the oils shoot out of the skin and through the flame and ignite. Then add the zest to the drink.
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째 FEATURE 째
Stir
Throw
Rim
Layer
44 째
Build
Garnish
Flame
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Zest Twist
ZEST TWIST The strips of fruit peel that release the essential citrus oils from the lemon, lime, orange, or grapefruit peel onto the surface of the drink, adding aroma and flavour to a cocktail. With a sharp knife, cut a strip of skin from the fruit, leaving a little of the white inner pith for sturdiness. You can trim the edges of the zest to smarten it up. Then hold the twist over the cocktail with the coloured side pointing toward the surface of the drink. Hold the twist between your thumb and forefingers. Turn one end clockwise and the other anticlockwise. The oils will be released and will fall onto the top of the drink. Now rub the coloured side of the twist around the rim of the glass so that any remaining oils adhere to the rim of the glass, and drop the twist into the drink. Some drinks require the zest to be flamed; this is essentially the same as a twist, except you’re squeezing the oils through a flame to ignite them. Using a match or lighter, hold the flame next to the glass in one hand, then with the zest held between your thumb and forefingers of your other hand, place the zest next to the flame and squeeze the zest quickly so that the oils shoot out of the skin through the flame and ignite. Then add the zest to the drink.
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° PROFILE °
Born of Rye, Water and Character
R
ye, water, character – these are the essential ingredients that make Belvedere the world’s original luxury vodka. Authentic, smooth and with a uniquely distinctive taste, Belvedere embodies how a luxury vodka should be and why it’s perfect for making martinis.
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RYE Dankowskie rye – a fine winter grain dating back to the mid-19th century – is central to what makes Belvedere the world’s original luxury vodka. This noble Polish ingredient lends Belvedere vodka’s sweet but savoury flavour profile and bold character, creating a personality with a natural edge.
WATER As the traditional Polish saying goes “water breathes life into vodka”, hence, it is an essential ingredient in Belvedere vodka. Belvedere’s esteemed distillery – Polmos Zyrardów – is one of very few distilleries in Poland to source water from its proprietary artesian wells with a lineage dating back to the last glacial age. Water from these wells imbues vodka with a soft texture that allows the rye character to shine through. The same water from the artesian wells is used throughout the distillation process as well as for sterilising the bottles prior to the bottling of Belvedere. Thus, an entirely clean process is maintained.
CHARACTER The final component in the triumvirate that makes up Belvedere vodka is character. Belvedere is loyal to the Polish lineage by strictly utilising local ingredients, adding only water and never any additives to the final spirit. These simple ingredients crafted together with integrity and attention to detail demonstrate the Polish pride in producing a natural and silky smooth vodka, with character!
BELVEDERE AND JAMES BOND TEAM UP “Shaken, not stirred” – James Bond’s famous words. Belvedere is delighted to be serving the legendary spy his vodka martini – marking a significant moment in the history of the iconic film series and the largest global partnership for Belvedere vodka to date.
WHY BELVEDERE IS PERFECT FOR A MARTINI Belvedere’s taste profile is smooth and naturally sweet, with a hint of almond, clotted cream, and a delicate accent of white pepper and sweet spice. It boasts a full and round mouth-feel, with a medium bodied weight and a velvety texture. Claire Smith-Warner, Head of Spirit Creation and Mixology at Belvedere, explains the significance of martini. “The beauty of the iconic drink lies in the truth that it is the most personal cocktail. Therefore, the most perfect Belvedere martini is not a prescribed recipe we tell you to drink, it’s one that you’ve crafted yourself. A Belvedere martini is a journey of exploration, in search of a new experience, something exciting and mysterious as you are getting to know your martini.”
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° FEATURE °
Vodka Martini, Anyone? WORDS ° Chester Grucza
W
e won’t split hairs: I am no James Bond. I am not the Bond villain either, even if I wanted so desperately to be one. I share, however, a passion for Martinis. ‘Shaken, not stirred’, Vespers and stirred ones too, above all.
50 °
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Some gentlemen may argue that vodka is no material for a true martini, but I beg to differ. Author E.B. White once called it “the Elixir of Quietude”, but I call it “the Elixir of Attitude”. Growing up in Poland (communist and postcommunist), we didn’t have many spirits at our disposal: there was vodka and some more vodka. Go figure. Without many spirits to choose from, I started to experiment with what was available and begun to notice the subtle nuances between the different vodkas on the market. Ultimately, I have been lucky enough to find my much better half. She adores Vodka Martini more than Vodka and Soda, and this always gives me a perfect reason to put my bartender skills to the test. Whilst martini is one of the most recognisable cocktails on the planet, it is still as easy to mess it up, as easy as it is to fumble a garden salad or a cheese toastie. Isn’t life funny in that way? The simplest tasks can become the most difficult. You will need quality ingredients and technical skills when making a martini. Get this right and you will be on the road to success. If you are able to notice the nuances of wheat, rye or potato, you are one step ahead. If you cannot, all is not lost. Start from the beginning and work your way up. Everyone has preferences: I like mine a little more aromatic, when others want it bone-dry: potato creaminess in the end product cannot be beaten in my opinion. Skip the Gin: it needs no advertising at this very moment. Vodka is coming back. It comes
as no surprise that I prefer Polish brands. When I was growing up, Wyborowa was the go-to drop for everyday use, whilst Belvedere was only taken out of the cabinet on special occasions. Luksusowa and Zytnia – potato and rye respectively – were considered inferior products. The Game of Grains was on, but that is not the case any longer. The brands of yesterday are enjoying a big comeback, thanks to the hipster culture and to much improved quality. Other than Poland, many more countries produce excellent drams with the US at the forefront of the modern day race. Boyd & Blair Potato in the race for quality leaves behind multiple, and often questionable flavours, which once were extremely popular. Netherlands and the prominent Nolet family cannot be overlooked. Neither can the French geese. Eastern neighbours from Russia and the old Soviet block deserve a whole chapter, as much as their Polish counterparts, but let’s leave the origin of Wódka aside. In fact, many countries can claim exceptional vodka-making skills. Those, paired with knowhow of a modern craftsmanship and availability of complementary ingredients, will end up with (hopefully) a beautifully executed cocktail. A vast amount of vermouths available in the Hong Kong market, combined with the imagination of some of the most creative bartenders and the best vodkas available, makes a connection that’s hard to top. At the dominant market of clean spirits, vermouth is impossible to ignore, bringing flower-power, fiery rockets or citrus flesh
flavours: You choose. It is like the tie and the handkerchief to your suit, the lime to your sparkling water and the hollandaise to your poached eggs – one complements the other. Never underestimate the power of condiment either – Olive or Twist, being a classic garnish, had to make way for all kinds of garnishes, from fruit through herbs to bizarre connections like herring or Brussel sprout. Everyone’s take on the subject is very personal: dry, wet, sloppy, dirty or Sasha Grey, out of which, none is wrong. Pure preference and attention to detail is the key. Please save me from huge glasses of watered down beverages, drowned in vermouth and poor quality neutral spirit, that some have balls to call Vodka. National Polish spirit was downplayed as simple and elementary, but the nuances still cannot be described and as we all know: SIMPLICITY IS THE KEY. Haven’t we all tried to get the perfect drink, adding amount of myriad of liqueurs, shrubs to top up with tonics, just to realise that it was all better before? Why should we change something as simple and perfect in its entity? We shouldn’t. It’s the bastard of drinks everyone wished they had. If you doubt any of the above, come to Lily & Bloom. We have just launched Martini Mondays, where vodka is King, gin the Queen and various additions are the Jesters. Master the technique; take the best available ingredients, mix and drink. Vodka Martini, I salute you! Na Zdrowie!
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째 DRINK 째
Cocktail Club
MARTINI
Pineapple & Thyme Martini
Pear & Rosemary Martini
INGREDIENTS: 40ml Belvedere Vodka 40ml Pineapple Juice 5ml Lemon Juice 10ml Sugar Syrup 4 Thyme Sprigs
INGREDIENTS: 40ml Belvedere Vodka 30ml Pear Puree 15ml Apple Juice 5ml Lemon Juice 10ml Sugar Syrup Two Rosemary Sprigs 1 dash Tabasco (optional)
METHOD: Muddle and shake GARNISH: Thyme sprig GLASS: Martini
METHOD: Muddle and shake GARNISH: Rosemary sprig GLASS: Martini
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Victoria’s Secret
Vodka Dry Martini
INGREDIENTS: 30ml Belvedere Vodka 20ml Pineapple Juice 15ml Passion Fruit Puree 15ml Crème de Fraise 10ml Passion Fruit Syrup 10ml Lemon Juice Two Strawberries
INGREDIENTS: 60ml Belvedere Vodka 10ml Dry Vermouth
METHOD: Shake
METHOD: Shake or stir GARNISH: Lemon twist or 2 olives GLASS: Martini
GARNISH: Strawberry GLASS: Martini
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째 DRINK 째
Golden Gibson
Jade Garden
INGREDIENTS: 60ml Belvedere Vodka 5ml Benedictine Two Orange Twists Two Lemon Twists
INGREDIENTS: 40ml Belvedere Vodka 10ml Apple Juice 10ml Sugar Syrup Half Kiwi Fruit Half Apple
METHOD: Stir GARNISH: 3 cocktail onions GLASS: Martini
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METHOD: Muddle and shake GARNISH: Kiwi slice GLASS: Martini
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Miss Martini
Flames of Love
INGREDIENTS: 40ml Belvedere Vodka 20ml Chambord 15ml Raspberry Puree 10ml Sugar Syrup 20ml Cream
INGREDIENTS: 70ml Belvedere Vodka Rinse in Glass Sherry One in Glass Flame Orange Twist
METHOD: Shake GARNISH: Raspberry float
METHOD: Shake or stir GARNISH: Flamed orange twist GLASS: Martini
GLASS: Martini
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° FEATURE °
Cocktail Drinking Culture WORDS ° Martin Newell
F
ive years ago in Sydney, Australia’s biggest city, only a handful of cocktail bars existed. The majority of bars were drinking barns serving up cans of Bundaberg & Cola, affectionately nicknamed ‘Black Rats’ and stubbies (bottles) of ‘Smirnoff Ice’. The serious drinking classes had to travel 1,000 kilometres to Melbourne to experience the groundbreaking cocktails of Der Raum and the exotic gins of Gin Palace.
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° FEATURE ° On weekends, ready to drinks (RTDs) and cask wines (goon bags) would be opened at BBQs and house parties across the nation. The closest thing to a cocktail anyone would serve was a gin and tonic. But today, Australia’s drinking culture has been revolutionised. Australians are drinking less than at any time since the mid-1990s, but spending on alcohol has increased dramatically. Instead of $8 on a vodka, lime and soda, Aussies will spend $18 on a martini. And in response, they’re ditching the RTDs and taking advantage of an explosion in the availability of pre-batched and bottled cocktails, which, much like craft beers, have arrived in response to the average punter’s desire to sample the “finer things” in drinking. Creating new flavours is a driving force for most bartenders and 10 years ago, Tony Conigliaro of 69 Colebrooke Row revised the practice of bottled cocktails with his ‘bottle-aged Manhattan’. Premixing cocktails and putting them in a bottle days, months or even years before serving has been shown to allow flavours
58 °
to mingle and integrate. But this isn’t an entirely new fad. ‘Professor’ Jerry Thomas published a number of prebatched cocktail recipes in his 19th century cocktail book, ‘How to Mix Drinks or The Bon Vivant’s Companion’. And since Tony C brought the idea back, Jeffrey Morgenthaler at Clyde Common and Ryan Chetiyawardana at White Lyan have certainly made them ‘cool’. Australia is heavily influenced by trends in food and bartenders and patrons alike have a thirst to experience something new. The trend to bottled cocktail serves two purposes: one functional, the other for flavour. Like in Hong Kong, the relatively small size of most cocktail bars makes speed of service an issue. Pre-batching cocktails the afternoon or the day before gives venues the opportunity to expand their offering while increasing spend per head and serving two, four or more people with the simple pop of a cork. In December 2013, Fred Siggins from Melbourne cocktail institution – The Black Pearl – won the inaugural Bulleit Batching competition
with the ‘Bulleit & Briar’. The drink is inspired by the Southern USA summer and the traditional blackberry cobbler. It is made with a blackberry shrub infused with citrus peel and vanilla infused sugar, then mixed with Bulleit bourbon and soda. Now other bars in Australia are putting together their own bottled cocktails for consumption by guests and for sale in bottleshops. Sydney bar Eau de Vie is producing its own Negroni and Old Fashioneds in bottles and just two months ago, added its own bacon infused bourbon. Even the mainstream food press are getting leading bartenders such as World Class 2012 Champion Tim Philips to share recipes for pre-batched cocktails as part of summer home entertaining ideas. Drinking in Australia has come a long way in five short years. This summer has also seen cocktails emerging on tap alongside the iconic ice cold Australian lager. Bartenders and bar owners are driving the changes in the way to drink. In the process, they are educating an ever more savvy drinking class that are seeking out the latest drink trends in their local bars.
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鸡尾酒文化 撰文:Martin Newell
Marty started out life as a bartender in New Zealand managing the country’s best bar, the Matterhorn in Wellington, before embarking on a career in global spirits companies that has spanned Shanghai, London, Melbourne and now Hong Kong. He is joining Moët Hennessy Diageo in Hong Kong as Brand Manager for Diageo Spirits and World Class.
五年前,澳大利亚悉尼的鸡尾酒吧寥寥无几,大 部分酒吧只供应罐装的Bundaberg & Cola和瓶装的 Smirnoff Ice,爱酒之士要千里迢迢到墨尔本,才 能一尝Der Raum的创意鸡尾酒和Gin Palace的杜松 子酒。当地人在周末烧烤派对上会饮用预先包装 的酒或盒装葡萄酒,配上汤力水的杜松子酒已经 是最接近鸡尾酒的东西。 不过,澳大利亚的品酒文化现在已截然不同, 虽然酒精饮料的消耗量是90年代中以来最少,但 有关的花费却大增。以前会花8元买伏特加酒、酸 橙汁和汽水的澳大利亚人,现在宁愿花18元买一 杯马丁尼酒。由于客人更加讲究,预先调配的瓶 装鸡尾酒也应运而生,成为市场的新宠。 因此,许多调酒师也努力调配与别不同的新 口味。十年前,69 Colebrooke Row的调酒师Tony Conigliaro研创出在瓶内陈年的Manhattan鸡尾酒, 一改当地的瓶装鸡尾酒传统。这种方法把预先调 配的鸡尾酒放在瓶内陈化数天、甚至数年,让不 同的味道融合演化,更富层次。 不过,早在19世纪,Jerry Thomas已经在著 作《How to Mix Drinks or The Bon Vivant’s Companion》里分享了类似的做法。虽然Tony Conigliaro再尝试这种做法,把它变成潮流的却是 Clyde Common的Jeffrey Morgenthaler和White Lyan的 Ryan Chetiyawardana。 澳大利亚深受食物文化影响,使调酒师和顾客 都追求新的口味,所以瓶装鸡尾酒既方便,也带 来新鲜的味道。
当地的鸡尾酒吧跟香港一样,由于面积不大, 所以效率不高。不过,如果在下午或前一天预先 调配鸡尾酒,酒吧便能供应更多的口味,更快满 足多位顾客的需要,继而增加收入。 在2013年12月,墨尔本鸡尾酒吧The Black Pearl 的Fred Siggins以Bulleit & Briar赢得首届Bulleit Batching比赛,他以美国南部的夏日和传统酥皮黑 莓馅饼为灵感,以黑莓混合柑橘皮和香草味糖, 再加入Bulleit波旁威士忌和苏打水,风味独特。 现在,澳大利亚的其他酒吧会自己调配瓶装鸡 尾酒供客人饮用和出售,例如悉尼的Eau de Vie 便出品瓶装的Negroni和Old Fashioned,两个月前 更推出培根味的波旁威士忌。即使主流饮食媒体 也邀请著名的调酒师分享调酒心得,例如World Class 2012大赛冠军Tim Philips便获邀分享适合夏 日派对的预先调配鸡尾酒。 当地的品酒文化在五年之间经历了翻天覆地的 变化,今年夏天更迎来桶装的鸡尾酒,与本地冰 啤酒平起平座。调整师和酒吧东主合力塑造全新 的喝酒文化,让追求现代品酒潮流的人士扩阔眼 界。
Marty的第一份工作是在新纽兰首屈一指的酒吧 Matterhorn担任调酒师,后来加盟国际酒业集团, 足迹遍布上海、伦敦、墨尔本和香港,现在他 是香港Moët Hennessy Diageo的一员,担任Diageo Spirits和World Class大赛的品牌经理。
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° MEET °
Tunny
Grattidge C
urrently the Bar Manager of Chachawan, Tunny has more than a decade of bartending experience under his belt. His impressive resumé includes working at a string of bars in Sydney and London, namely the Trademark Hotel Lounge Bar and Piano Room, The Drake and Morgan Umbrella and Mr Wong’s. DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Tell us about your background in bartending. Tunny Grattidge: I have been bartending for more than 10 years now. My career started at the Trademark Hotel Lounge Bar and Piano Room in Sydney’s King Cross. I then travelled around Asia backpacking and working in various bars, and eventually ended up in London. I was quite fortunate to work under The Drake and Morgan Umbrella in London with the likes of Neil Rivington, who is now Bar Manager at Aberdeen St Social under the same group as Chachawan. I also worked at a few pop-up bars around Europe and then I went back to my Sydney roots and worked at Mr Wong’s.
DWA: What spirits interest you at the moment? Any specific style or brand? TG: I have two favourites at the moment: Sipsmith gin for its use in cocktails and tea infusion, and Diplomático Añejo for its versatility and balance.
DWA: What has been your impression of the Hong Kong bar scene? TG: For me, the Hong Kong bar scene is on the brink of exploding. I believe that the talent and concepts opening and evolving in the last few years have firmly put Hong Kong on the map. It’s a very exciting time to be part of the culinary experience in this city. The scene is young, innovative and still not saturated – every idea can be a great one.
DWA: What things do you see in the culture of the world of bartenders that makes you proud? What do you find unimpressive or embarrassing? TG: I am proud of the love and nurturing culture of bartenders. There is a certain camaraderie as well as kinship that you develop in the industry. Also, there is never a moment that you can’t get on the group chat and organise a place to live, discover an obscure ingredient, learn a better way of doing things and find a contact in a new city to show you around. For every rule, there is an exception. In the world of bartenders, there is always one who thinks highly of himself, a know-it-all and is not afraid to make it known. I find these things most embarrassing.
DWA: Can you tell us your drinks philosophy at Chachawan? TG: Our drinks at Chachawan revolve around modern classics, Thai cuisine and the Hong Kong tea drinking culture. We have created cocktails that appeal to and are understood by people from all walks of life. It’s easier to educate people on a drink that they already feel like they have some inkling as to its style. Moreover, we only use fresh produce and some bespoke products to be a little different from the mainstream. Our drinks relate back to our cuisine in some small way for food matching but are, of course, delicious on their own.
DWA: What other bars in Hong Kong are you enjoying and why? TG: I frequent Ham & Sherry because it has some good vino and very interesting cocktails. In addition, its menu – which features flavours and spirits from around the world – makes me feel like I’m going on a long journey back home. I also like Ping Pong 129 as the place has some very interesting gins and a great vibe. Lastly, I enjoy having brunch at Aberdeen St Social with Neil. He loves to spend time with customers on a Sunday and personally sees to it that they feel right at home.
DWA: What flavours and ingredients are you currently enjoying? TG: We are loving tea at the moment at Chachawan and are enjoying the different variations of Oolong and some of the red Yunnan teas. Playing with these flavours and calamansi has brought out some very interesting tastes. The biggest challenge now is not overpowering the unique flavours and making them friendlier to a foreign palate.
DWA: What’s your signature drink at the moment? Can you describe it and share with us the recipe? TG: My signature drink is called Juniper Tea Party. It’s a take on a gin sour, using calamansi, jasmine tea, Thai basil and salted plum.
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Juniper Tea Party Ingredients • 50ml Sipsmith Gin • 25ml Calamansi Juice • 20ml Jasmine Tea Syrup • 6 Thai Basil Leaves • 6 Slivers of Salted Plum • 1 Egg White Method Add all ingredients to a shaker, wet shake, then dry shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with Thai basil leaf and enjoy.
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° PROFILE °
“Spirit
“
Soul with a
A
s a vodka of good intent, Snow Leopard is the consummation of founder Stephen Sparrow’s vision to create an exceptional ultra-premium vodka whose profits could be used to save the critically endangered snow leopard from extinction.
Stephen Sparrow
Snow Leopard vodka is made using only high-quality spelt grain and natural ingredients from Poland. It is distilled six times utilising a technique honed to perfection and overseen by master distiller, Joanna Dawidowicz. Hence, it’s no wonder that it is appreciated across the world by enthusiasts including Royal Princes William and Harry and fashion aristocrats Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney. Further testament to the brand’s exceptional quality can be seen in the accolades it has received from throughout the industry, sweeping up Gold Medals at the Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago in 2006 and 2010 and at the 2014 International Spirits Challenge. Snow Leopard vodka delivers an extraordinarily rich flavour and incredibly smooth clean finish, making it a perfect addition to any true connoisseur’s cabinet. The launch of Snow Leopard in Hong Kong ultimately reaffirms the brand’s philanthropic vision to the world at large. It also intends to show Hong Kong how its vodka truly is the “Spirit with a Soul” by emphasising its unique relationship with Snow Leopard Trust and focusing on its mission to save and improve the livelihood of wild snow leopards through the donation of 15% of its profits to conservation projects in Mongolia, China, India and Kyrgyzstan. Personally overseen from conception to conservation by Stephen Sparrow himself, Snow Leopard vodka aims to increase public awareness and bring a critically endangered species back from the brink. For the creator of the “Spirit with a Soul”, the aim is not merely to introduce an unparalleled product but to present a supremely worthy cause to the people of Hong Kong.
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雪豹伏特加“善心酒酿” 雪豹是一个重视环境与保育的伏特加酒品牌, 体现始创人Stephen Sparrow高瞻远瞩的愿景—— 酿造顶级的伏特加酒,并贡献盈利拯救濒危的 雪豹。 雪豹伏特加酒以精挑细选的优质波兰二粒小 麦和天然材料酿造,由酿酒师Joanna Dawidowicz 运用超卓技术仔细蒸馏六次,难怪深受品味 一族爱戴,从英国皇室到Vivienne Westwood和 Stella McCartney等时装巨人也趋之若鹜。酒质 馥郁顺喉,余韵清爽,品质卓越,成功摘下 多个殊荣,先后在2006年和2010年获芝加哥
Beverage Testing Institute颁发金奖,更在2014年的 International Spirits Challenge里独领风骚。 随者雪豹伏特加正式来到香港,品牌也向目标 迈进一大步。品牌会重点介绍Snow Leopard Trust 的工作,把15%的利润拨捐蒙古、中国、印度和 吉尔吉斯斯坦的保育项目,让香港人一窥“善 心酒酿”的真谛。 从构思配方到实践保育,Stephen Sparrow也亲 身参与每一个步骤,务求通过品质出众的伏特 加酒提升公众的保育意识,挽救濒危的物种, 让香港人也能为极具意义的项目献一分力。
Marian Beke will descend HK for Snow Leopard in April
Born in Slovakia, Marian Beke has lived in London for the past 11 years. He did stints between clubs, hotel bars and restaurants as well as street bars and had worked at the Artesian Bar, Montgomery Place and Purl. In 2010, he joined Nightjar –voted UK’s Best New Bar and one of the best bars in the world – as its Bar Manager. He has also done some consulting on brands and bars itself across Asia, Europe, Russia and the US. In April, Marian will be in town to introduce creative mixology of Snow Leopard vodka in Hong Kong. He will be guest bartending and holding masterclass sessions at some of the renowned bars in town. Mark these dates on your calendar: APRIL 28, 2014 (TUESDAY) Evening: Guest bartender at Origin, where he will prepare and serve three Snow Leopard vodka cocktails. APRIL 29, 2015 (WEDNESDAY) Afternoon: Masterclass at Quinary featuring Snow Leopard vodka Evening: Guest bartender in the same venue, where he will prepare and serve three Snow Leopard vodka cocktails. These drinks will be different from the ones’ served at Origin. APRIL 30, 2015 (THURSDAY) Evening: Guest bartender at The Envoy, where he will mix up three Snow Leopard vodka cocktails. Again, these drinks will be different from those served at Origin and Quinary. Lastly, one Snow Leopard vodka cocktail in each of the three venues will be selected and featured for three months for those who missed Marian’s exceptional cocktails.
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° MEET °
g n i l e v Unra
a l i u q e T ingbird T
k c o M
equila Mockingbird is a brand created to distill the philosophy of what drinks and drinking should be. And while consulting, events and training are all key components of the Tequila Mockingbird package, what it’s really all about is a brand to express the values of its partners, as well as a platform to spread that gospel around Asia with events, interviews, media and door-to-door drinking of great booze.
DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Who is Tequila Mockingbird? TEQUILA MOCKINGBIRD: Tequila Mockingbird is everyone. Well, maybe not everyone. Probably not Mormons or devout Muslims or the profoundly boring, but in terms of normal, drinking adults, we hope everyone is Tequila Mockingbird. At the start, Tequila Mockingbird is Tom Wood and John O’Toole, two barmen from opposite ends of the planet with a similar outlook on what the world of drinking should, and with a little help, could be. For people that love good drink in Hong Kong, it would be a better than even wager to assume each has already met Tequila Mockingbird at some point, and as long as its representative was Tom Wood,
said drinker is probably already a big fan. If that same drinker had the misfortune of meeting the other founding partner of TM, well… at least he probably has a good story to share. We’ll save the best for last and talk about John first. As an American, it’s generally good policy to ignore anything John says on principle, and indeed, that’s true outside of one area: running bars and restaurants. Starting at 17 working for Seth and Angela Raynor in Massachusetts, John cut his teeth early making some truly terrible drinks. The Cosmos, oh, the Cosmos! It was early days for the craft movement, but the key takeaways, even from those dark times were these: always respect the guest, his money and his time; a drink made too slowly is bad no
matter how balanced or delicious; and always use fresh juice (except Cranberry - way too bitter and it stains everything). But perhaps the most important to Tequila Mockingbird was the first realisation any barman makes, the one that brings us back from the experiments with “real jobs”, the one that keeps us cleaning out the drainage at 3am listening to bad house music: Bartending is fun. A couple continents and a decade later, and that’s no less true than the first time John picked up a shaker, something he plans to do until he’s older than Sam Jeveons. As in all things, Tom is a much more illustrious character, starting with the esteemed Merivale group in Sydney. Once the pesky university degree was completed (John was foolhardy
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° MEET °
enough to pocket one as well), it was off to London and Dublin for several years before moving back to Sydney. There, he racked up an impressive CV with stint at Hugo’s pizza and working with (and faster) than some of the best names in the Sydney scene. Chewy Morrow, Hayley Morrison, Tom Bulmer, Natalie Ng and a lot more, are still on Tom’s speed dial and - when visiting Hong Kong at least - a liver-terrifying rolodex of excellent bar stories. As with John, though, Asia beckoned, and Wyndham the 4th got the ball rolling for Tom and John both. On opening the project, Tom made the questionable decision of asking his new friend John to work a few nights a week, mostly to chat to attractive customers and drink tequila. Shockingly, the partnership was a very good one. John worked fast, well and sometimes even clean, and gave Tom ample opportunity to chat with guests and drink Pol Roger. Still a matter of debate is who had the better end of that deal. With similar drinks philosophies, techniques and liver capacity, Tom and John were able to construct the ideas that would one day be Tequila Mockingbird. Sadly, our day jobs, needed to do things like pay rent, kept the idea a nascent one for two more years, when fate intervened. Since the meeting of minds, and quite quickly too, Tequila Mockingbird has expanded to include some top notch local partners, also keen on promoting great quality drinks (even some without booze) and spreading our unique “Spirituality” through the wonder of Social Media. Whilst Tequila Mockingbird began as a partnership, it has always been an inclusive one, and we are always keen to work with people that want to work with us. Provided, of course, they can hold their Fernet. DWA: What is Tequila Mockingbird? TM: A Consultancy? A Brand Builder? An Events Company? Or just a year-long bender? It’s probably all of those things. But at heart, formed by the partnership of long time barmen and drinking buddies, Tequila Mockingbird is a brand created to distill our philosophy of what drinks and drinking should be. And while consulting, events and training are all key components of the Tequila Mockingbird package, what it’s really all about is a brand to express the values of these partners, as well as a platform to spread that gospel around Asia with events, interviews, media and door-to-door drinking of great booze.
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Tequila Mockingbird is about all the things we find important: top notch quality drinks, service, education and nothing else. We hung up our Harry’s New York Bar white jackets long ago (though we could perhaps be persuaded to dust them off, if they still fit), but we haven’t stopped getting in the trenches, getting dirty, getting creative, meeting customers and improving. Tequila Mockingbird is a statement of what we believe quality drinks and drinking should be. It’s an inclusive idea of what makes a great drink, a great bar, and a great night out. Like the pun in the name, Tequila Mockingbird is about putting a smile on the bar community again. DWA: Where is Tequila Mockingbird? TM: It’s everywhere, though mostly in between the ice well and the glass washer. Specifically though, we’re active in Hong Kong, Macau, Myanmar and parts unknown in Asia, starting in 2015. DWA: When did Tequila Mockingbird happen? TM: Fast-forwarding through some decent milestones (John brought Michter’s Whiskey ahead of Woodford Reserve, Tom won Diageo World Class, etc. etc.) by the tail end of 2013, it was pretty clear that this partnership had more to offer. When both decided to start the Hong Kong branch of Brand Connect, both took the leap and started Tequila Mockingbird, to retrain some muscles that had atrophied in our previous roles, and get ready for larger projects ahead. The initial idea behind Tequila Mockingbird was to start a company for events, consultancy and training that could hold the two restless barmen over whilst setting up Brand Connect HK - an import business active all throughout Asia, and still the day job. Though after several successful consulting projects and numerous events, it was decided that Tequila Mockingbird had more to offer the barmen and drinkers of Hong Kong and beyond. Sticking to the roots of events and consultancy, Tequila Mockingbird has taken on a few disparate projects in its first year, but as a brand, it’s just getting started. DWA: Why was Tequila Mockingbird started? TM: At the risk of sounding bold, Tequila Mockingbird is about saving bartenders from themselves. Creativity, intrepidness and pushing boundaries are, and should remain, some of the key values of the modern craft bartender,
and drinkers appreciate this. We have had some incredible, epic cocktails with ingenious flavours that we would never ourselves think of, and we hope to drink many, many more of these in the future. Still, lost in some of the “Hard-Shake” debates and 50cm bar spoons made of Onyx is that realisation that all barmen make early on: this is supposed to be fun. That’s the crux of why we felt that Hong Kong and Asia needed Tequila Mockingbird. There are many consultants, bartenders, spirits experts and wunderkinds, many of them much more talented than us, so if it is to do anything, Tequila Mockingbird’s goal is to inject a bit of fun and whimsy back into a community that it might be argued has become a bit too serious. No Jåger-Bombs though, we have to draw a line somewhere. DWA: What has Tequila Mockingbird done for me lately? TM: Well, we’re not really sure who’s asking, so that’s hard to say, but certainly John, Tom and their expanding list of like-minded partners have been very busy. Like our personalities, our projects have been a motley selection in the short time since starting Tequila Mockingbird. One of the first was an in-depth consult on the bar and beverage program on a luxury river cruiser being built in Myanmar. After several meeting and emails back and forth, we agreed on a menu that we were both happy with and the cruise directors had approved. This included a rather gruelling tasting of several dozen fine wines, seasonal fruit research, sourcing issues, and a lot of cattle-wrangling. A month later, Tom was sent to Myanmar to implement the menu and train the staff. Jealous of Tom’s incredible experience (and talent), John has begun working with a top-secret partners to develop spirits alongside Asian craft distillers and bottlers (sadly, no, not tequila…yet), as well as developing other potent potables with a ragtag band of folks around the region. In addition to some high-flying adventures, we have remained active in Hong Kong, refreshing the menu and bar program at Alfie’s, creating the concept and training staff at current hot-spot Ping Pong 129, working with The Blck Brd and Black Star teams, and advising our favourite whiskey producers on creating a special bottling for one of Asia’s most prestigious restaurant groups. In addition to some of these “big ticket” items, we find it crucial to be working
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bartenders, and both are behind the stick somewhere in Asia at least 5 nights a month, even if “the stick” is a catering table and an Esky full of ice.
nding) and John O’Toole (Sitting)
DWA: How is Tequila Mockingbird different from Brand Connect? TM: Tequila Mockingbird is about a wider philosophy of what drinks mean to people. Brand Connect is about the nitty gritty of connecting great global brands to great bartenders all around Asia. There’s a pleasant overlap there, but the big difference is opportunity. Tequila Mockingbird is its own product, and it’s there to make a more enlightened drinker. Meanwhile, Brand Connect is the day job and that means spending our days in an office (but it’s a pretty cool office), building the import side of the business and creating one of the most exciting portfolios in town. Key to that strategy, and the foundation of the portfolio, was Michter’s Whiskies, an outstanding product that John and Tom have been proud and honoured to work with for over three years. Of course, to start an idea like Tequila Mockingbird and not work with the best tequila on the planet would have been folly, and on just about the first day of official business, Tom quite clearly said, “mate, if we’re going to keep Tequila Mockingbird, we need OCHO.” This inspired exactly zero debate, and after a message to Phil Bayly in Sydney
ood (Sta PHOTO: Tom W
DWA: How can Tequila Mockingbird improve my business? TM: With two decades’ experience total, the Tequila Mockingbird team can help in the traditional consulting roles, as well as the less traditional. If winning Diageo World Class Hong Kong isn’t enough proof, the dedicated following Tom commands for bars, pop-ups and events, prove that his ability to create innovative, delicious and - most important - consistently replicable cocktails is second to few in Asia. In addition, Tom’s training skills and mentorship are already sought after throughout HK and Asia. As for John, while no slouch in the creative and cocktail side of things, his experience with the top-down business end, customer analysis, and brand building are of key importance to anyone looking to create a lasting impact (and profit) in the beverage and bar game in Asia. Also, his bar tab will single-handedly finance a 20-30 seat venture.
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Voted
the Best Rum in the WoRld
www.theeldoradorum.com Please enjoy el DoraDo resPonsibly
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° MEET °
SINCE 2014
HONG KONG
TRAINING CONSULTING AND JUST A FEW SHENANIGANS
TRAINING CONSULTING AND JUST A FEW SHENANIGANS and a few weeks of discussion, the Camarenas started bottling up some OCHO for Hong Kong and Macau. Next on our agenda was rum, and once again we both knew that El Dorado was the first choice. This one took a bit longer to lock down, but we managed to get the desired result and a hell of a lot of rum! It was a sign that the first two bottles Tom brought with him from Australia and put on the bar at Wyndham the 4th three years ago were 15yr old El Dorado & Ocho Extra Añejo. We now get to work with our favourite brands on a daily basis and introduce them to bartenders and drinkers in Hong Kong. These were the brands that were getting bartenders excited in Australia and London back then, and now we get to excite Hong Kong’s bartenders with them. We share the office with a wine supplier (Continental Wines) and some other incredible, brilliant consultants specialised in the fine wine and food industry - incidentally, they also get some pretty excellent samples, which has nothing at all to do with our admiration for them, we promise… It’s a great working experience, a bit like high-tech “incubators,” though, as a group, we mostly just incubate hangovers. Of course, whilst Brand Connect grows, we’re keen to keep the philosophy of Tequila Mockingbird alive and growing even faster. In the next year, we plan to see some innovative web content, more great pop-up ideas,
collaborations with venues, event planners and distillers, and a whole lot more, so stay tuned. DWA: How can Tequila Mockingbird make me a better, fitter, happier person? TM: Well, we can help with the happier part, but exercise, man! You’re not getting any younger! DWA: What should I be drinking this year? TM: Our default answer is, unsurprisingly, tequila. But we’re seeing a few trends lately that we like the look of. John’s a fan of well-made low ABV cocktails, provided they’re priced accordingly: $120 Americanos! No sir! Tom is a fan of local talent working Campari and other bitters into sour style cocktails. But yeah, tequila. DWA: Are Tequila Mockingbird friendly? TM: Yes. DWA: Will they bite? TM: Only if you ask nicely. DWA: Will mixing multiple types of drinks like Gin, White wine and Beer make me drunker or make my hangover worse? TM: Nope! That’s an old wives’ tale. Hangovers are almost 100 per cent about dehydration. They get worse depending on the total amount of alcohol in your system compared to non-
alcoholic stuff in it. There are some exceptions, like overloading on beer or champagne (the heavy carbonation can have an effect, and, with beer, the high sugar content can overburden your system as well.) But basically, stay hydrated, don’t try to be a hero. DWA: What kind of mobile phone should I buy? TM: That depends. Do you like intractable and difficult to solve problems? Do you need mental stimulation even when doing the simplest of tasks? If so, buy an Android. Do you like simplicity and blending into a crowd? Are you not overly afraid of the sneaking suspicion you may belong to a cult? If so, buy an iPhone. Do you enjoy being different for difference’s sake, even if it makes your life more difficult than needed? Buy a Windows Phone. Do you wear a belt and suspenders at the same time? Buy at least two phones, you’ll never be able to really decide anyway. DWA: How much tequila did you drink whilst writing this? TM: None. *wink* DWA: Anything else? TM: We really like tequila.
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wo-meter long razor-sharp spikes. A heart the size of man, buried underground. Pollinated by huge bats. A stubborn insistence to grow at least until seven years old. By these descriptions, it would be pretty easy to wonder why on earth anyone would want to cultivate the Weber Blue Agave. This is a plant that, quite frankly, does not seem to want to be domesticated. It grows on volcanoes and takes extremely hard, skilled men hours of labour in the hot Mexican sun to get out. Rumour has it the first time anyone drank agave juice, it was because lightning struck it. Let’s face it, whether man can tame the agave or not, any spirit coming out of this hombre is bound to be an intense spirit. WORDS ° John O’Toole
Tequila – that’s what we get out of this plant. So, let’s start unraveling this wild stallion of a spirit, and start at the Beginning. In Aztec mythology, the agave was there right at the very start of the world. And who are we to argue? The legend goes that Mayahuel, Aztec goddess of fertility, created the agave plant for the men of Earth. Not to be outdone by his wife, Mayahuel’s husband, Tepoztecal, the god of alcoholic merriment (side note here: the Aztecs had a god of alcoholic merriment. The Aztecs
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were badasses) hurled a bolt of lightning at the agave plant, creating a fermented alcoholic beverage known as ‘Pulque’. Now, this pulque stuff was really more like a strong beer or weak wine than the fiery spirits of revolucíon that were to come, but it got the job done. There’s an alternative story here that Mayahuel created pulque from her breast to satisfy her Aztec warrior lover. The myth does not specify which of her 400 breasts she used for this purpose. The rest of the breasts were for feeding her 400 rabbit children. The lovely
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side-effect of this myth is that the Aztecs rated their drunkenness on a scale of rabbits. No seriously, they rated drunkenness on a scale of rabbits. Much more fun than the modern “one to ten” scale. Rabbits aside, this pulque was still pretty weak stuff, and when the Conquistadors came in their lust for gold, their thirst was not far behind them. It wasn’t long after settling in the New World that tragedy struck: they ran out of Brandy. Now this simply would not do; the Spaniards had to have something distilled. So, stills on board, they set about to turn this interesting pulque into something more… civilised. This proved a more difficult task than immediately assumed – which we will revisit later – but eventually, they got the job done, and mezcal was born. The name mezcal actually goes back to the Aztecs again. Mezcal was one word for their pulque. It came from the word “metl”, one of the names in honour of Mayahuel. At first, this drink was called “mezcal wine” and for relatively good reason. Unlike modern tequila and other spirits, early mezcal wine would have been distilled only once, a tradition that continues to this day in some old-school types of mezcal. Cultivation of this spirit began some time after 1521, the earliest record we have in the Spanish accounts of encountering the Maguey, or agave. What is known, is that by 1600, a man by the name of Don Pedro had set up production in a small town called Tequila, on the side of an extinct volcano. Here, the clay-rich soil produced agaves particularly wellsuited to mezcal wine. As always, however, the agave and its spirit had to be difficult. The trouble with Tequila – the town, anyway – was its location in the state of Jalisco. While the Spaniards conquered most of Mexico fairly quickly, Jalisco was bandit country, with a long history of tough Aztec warriors
who refused to submit to Spanish rule. Jalisco was so wild, in fact, that even up until the early 1900s it was a source of rebellions and skirmishes. Tequila was its variety of mezcal and developed separately from other varieties in, say, Oaxaca. And while the banditos perfected this spirit, there was a problem: almost no one in the rest of Mexico knew about it. Of course, before we get to the 20th century, it’s good to look back at a few key dates. Whilst Don Pedro started his distillery in 1600, it was granted royal permission to distill only in 1608. Nascent distillers in the area began to use only one kind of agave, later identified and named Weber Blue. Previously, they had used many kinds and in other regions, they do to this day. What would soon be called tequila was even exported to the British Colonies to the North (now the USA) and to Spain. However, to protect Spanish brandy production, import of brandy from “New Spain” was banned. In 1795, the ban was finally lifted. Enter José Cuervo. Joe Crow, as he was known (notice the black crow on Cuervo bottles?) received the first royal warrant to distill his mezcal wine, but others soon followed. Sauza, Herradura and Cofradia were all founded in the 1800s as was a distillery at La Alteña. Now legit, we return to the problem of the 20th century: topnotch producers making excellent juice that few people knew about. To get tequila to become a global powerhouse, it needed the Martini treatment. It needed Hollywood. Well, not quite Hollywood, but after the West was won and Jalisco tamed, the new Mexican film industry really got going in the 1920s and ‘30s. As in the neighbour to the North, Spaghetti Westerns were all the rage in Mexico, though they were called, slightly more politely: Comedia Ranchera - Comedies of the Range. Also like the North, cowboys and bandits laden with six shooters
and their bottles of spirits became iconic to the film world. And while the Gringos got drunk on their coffin-varnish bourbon, Los Banditos has fine, fine tequila. Thanks to the film industry, tequila became a symbol of revolution, independence and the fiery Mexican spirit. And with its Aztec and Spanish Conquistador history, tequila was a mestizo product, a relic of both cultures much like Mexico itself. Thus, unique to any alcohol save perhaps sake, tequila is the most representative spirit of all, a symbol of the history, conflict and culture of its homeland, and embedded in its iconography like nowhere else. Of course, to really get the party started, tequila had to make it out of Mexico, and to do that, it needed to be cool. Its wild nature had to be tamed, perhaps with citrus, as the Jimadors did. Maybe even with a bit of sugar or Orange liqueur, that would do nicely. Some salt, perhaps to deepen the acidity? Tequila needed the Margarita, and by god, he got it. After Prohibition, World War II and the Tiki craze, America was thirsty and the Margarita is the most thirst-quenching cocktail of them all. By some estimates, it remains the most popular cocktail in the world today, which is kind of a shame, as most Margaritas are sickly sweet concoctions rotating in a slushy machine with pre-made, chemically sour mix and cheap-asdirt triple sec. But a real margarita, with real tequila, fresh lime and good triple sec (or even better, Agave Nectar) is a truly magnificent thing, an icon of thirst-quenching balance just about unmatched in the cocktail world. And while Señora Margarita may have tamed the wild spirit of Jalisco, there’s yet to be found anyone that can tame some of its even more badass brothers down South. For as rough and ready as Jalisco may have been, it’s got nothing on Oaxaca. The history of mezcal is as long and interesting as tequila,
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but much more fractured. With Oaxacans making what most people now call “mezcal”, there’s also the Northern tradition of Sotol in Chihuahua, Bacanora in Sonora (bonus points for rhyming!), and Raicilla, back in Jalisco. Exploring the history of tequila, mezcal and agave spirits should be a book in itself. So the next time you raise a glass of these fine spirits, toast to the rebellious spirit of Mexico and remember that the history in that glass is the history of Mexico itself. AGAVE SPIRITS AND THEIR PRODUCTION Whilst most people outside Mexico are only beginning to discover that there is more to tequila than cheap shots in university bars and epic hangovers, bartenders and aficionados are uncovering a whole new world of agave, starting with mezcal. Mezcal has been popular in the bartending community for some time now and is starting to become a common feature on back bars around the world. In just a few years, Asia has gone from having zero mezcals to having several excellent options available such as Del Maguey, Los Danzantes and more. And as Espadín mezcal becomes a bar standard,
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bartenders are searching out even more exotic agave spirits (DWA’s favourite? Raicilla). All of these – including tequila itself – are types of mezcal, with the difference being production and the type of agave being used. The terms “Maguey”, “Agave” and “Weber Blue” are used more or less interchangeably, but in fact, this is inaccurate. There are hundreds of species of agave plant. Weber Blue is simply the most famous. Most modern mezcals are made from the Espadín or Sword agave, so named for its shape. As if to outdo their Northern neighbours, the mezcaleros of Oaxaca take this agave, naturally even bolder in flavour than the Weber Blue, and cook it underground with smoke, giving the final spirit a smoky, earthy flavour that begs comparison to Islay Single Malt Scotches. Agave spirits are unique for a couple of reasons, but one above all others. Whilst most spirits are made from raw ingredients that grow annually and each year a new crop harvested, agaves have to mature underground for several years before their piña or heart can be harvested. For Weber Blue, this is between 7 to 10 years and for spirits like Raicilla, it can take up
to 30. When learning about agave, the first introduction is tequila, and about the Agave Weber Tequilana Azul, one of over 200 species that have been identified and the only one allowed in tequila production. This particular variety takes an average of eight years to mature and be harvested. In essence, the ageing process for tequila happens before distillation, with the plant spending eight years or more absorbing all of the elements and energy of the sun. This has led many agave experts to believe that the influence of “terroir” with agave spirits has a huge influence on the final taste. All agave plants and spirits are a bit different, but let’s start with the unquestionable leader of the pack: tequila. A fully matured Weber Blue agave looks like a giant pineapple, with leaves as tall as a small person and a piña – or heart – which can weigh 50-200kg. Unlike other spirits that use machinery to harvest, all agave, Weber Blue included, is harvested by hand by the skilled Jimadores with their Coa – basically an axe – then cut up and the Corta, or bitter parts, are removed before the cooking process. The traditional way is to cook
the agave in stone ovens which can take up to 72 hours. These days, modern distillers use autoclaves (basically giant pressure cookers) which get the job done in 12-18ihours. This cooking process converts agave’s carbohydates into fermentable sugars. Agave is then slowly cooked at low temperatures (60 to 90 degrees Celsius) to avoid caramelising the sugars which can cause bitter flavours in the liquid. Juice extraction from the cooked piña is next. The traditional way is to use the “Tahona”, a large stone wheel that is pulled by a donkey or mule that gently crushes and extracts juices from the agave. The more modern way is with a more mechanical system that has a conveyor belt and passes the cooked agave through a giant shredder. The liquid extracted is called “aguamiel” or honey water, which is then mixed with some water before fermentation commences. Mezcal production differs from this as the agave is generally cooked in pits underground, thus, that smoky flavour. The next step is fermentation in wooden vats to create precious alcohol. This is where yeast is added to the aguamiel to begin converting sugars into alcohol. Traditionally, wild yeast was used in tequila fermentation, but nowadays yeast strains are cultured then added for a more controlled ferment. The liquid that results from fermentation is similar to a beer and is often called “Pulque”, like the original Aztec ferment, and is still drunk around Mexico. Alcohol geek side note here: modern day pulque actually comes from Agave Atrovirens Kawr or “the mild agave”, a variety that’s common pre-1700 and still relatively easy to grow in various regions. Before distillation, the fermented liquid is given around 12 hours to rest. Whilst most 100 per cent agave tequilas are produced using a pot still, larger more industrial
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operations now use column stills as well. The majority of tequilas are distilled twice, however a few brands – notably Casa Nobles – are distilled three times. And remember mezcal wine? Some mezcals are still only distilled once, to about 30% ABV. Take it from us, the resulting spirit is intense! Tradition is still to use relatively small pot stills, similar in size to French alembics, as opposed to American and Irish “doublers.” Once we have that precious spirit, it’s on to the final step (for some tequilas) of ageing. There are four age classifications for tequila and mezcal, namely: Blanco - less than 2 months, Reposado - between 2-12 months, Añejo between 1 year to 3 years, and extra Añejo - over 3 years. When talking to most seasoned tequila drinkers, the Blanco is always the mark of a great tequila, as the pure agave flavour is sought after. Of course, each variety has its fans. Julio Bermejo, surely one of the most agave soaked gentlemen in the world and owner of Tommy’s Mexican in San Francisco, loves the Reposado best due to its huge variance and complexity. And just try separating tequila sipping aficionados from their beloved Añejo and Extra Añejos! Regardless, most tequilas are aged in ex-bourbon barrels, but a few are beginning to experiment with different cask finishes such as Patron Burdeos that is aged in ex-Bordeaux wine barrels. After ageing is completed, well, my friends, we have Tequila. Or Mezcal. Or Sotol. So there we have it. Now pour yourself something nice. Make a sangrita recipe or pour some squirt and reposado into a glass for a Paloma. Either way, there’s never been a better time to raise a glass to the spirit of warriors, bandits and badasses. Toast the spirit of Mexico; it’s been waiting for you. Saludos!
Some of our favourite Agave spirits
TEQUILA OCHO Few men can claim to have done as much for Team Agave than Tomás Estes. After a successful teaching career, Estes opened Cafe Pacifico, one of Europe’s first Mexican restaurant and bars, in 1976. Now the proud owner of a few Mexican bars and restaurants, in 2007, Estes joined forces with fifth generation Master Distiller Carlos Camarena to create Tequila Ocho. Made at La Alteña, Ocho is the product of the shared passion of two true agave luminaries. Crafted in the belief that the agave should express itself fully, each tequila is a true vintage product. Each batch is produced with agaves hand picked from a specific rancho or agave field, and only from a single harvest. Each year and Rancho has its own idiosyncrasies, and will vary slightly. Yet the process – from “slow and low” longer roasting and resting times to using mezcalstyle wild yeast methods – is all about capturing the maximum agave expression. Using fatigued barrels means that the Reposados and Añejos are more a statement of how agave flavour matures over time, rather than how many vanillins and lignins from the oak influence the final taste of the agave. Of course, whichever year you’re drinking, it’s going to be knockout delicious. SIETE LEGUAS When talking about the history of Mexico, it’s difficult to find a better exemplar than the legendary Pancho Villa. So famous
was he that even his favourite horse inspired a great tequila. Spanish for “seven leagues”, Siete Leguas is an old-school, outstanding tequila. Named for the incredible distance the horse was able to gallop (25kms), the tequila is a testament to going the distance. It remains one of the few tequilas to still use donkeydrawn Tahonas for mashing its piñas into fermentable aguamiel. Also unique is its mixture of aguamiel from two different distilleries: El Centenario and La Vencedora, both founded in the 1940s. The current recipe dates from 1952 and Don Ignacio Gonzalez Vargas. In addition to its heritage methods, the Gonzalez de Anda family retains some of the most sought after agave in all of Mexico. When they are able to sell extra agaves from a good harvest (not all of a distillery’s agaves automatically go to the house tequila), the agaves from their fields are the most expensive in Jalisco. Oh, and it was the original recipe for Patrón, which you’ve probably heard of.
HERRADURA Although it is now owned by the global conglomerate Brown Forman, tequila Herradura remains an excellent example of craft tequila. Where Ocho goes
for maximum agave expression (and thus minimum oak) and Siete Leguas tries to find the perfect balance, Herradura embraces all the big, bold flavours ex-bourbon casks have to offer. Its Blanco is a wonderfully fresh, herbal and grassy affair, but its aged variants are luscious, rich and intense products. Definitely for those with a sweet tooth, Herradura manages to walk a fine balance between being an artisanal, excellent product as well as a truly global brand. If you don’t see your personal favourite on the back bar, you certainly can’t go wrong with this bad boy. DEL MAGUEY This is the brand that truly put mezcal on the map. They remain the market leaders with incredible, unique, single-village mezcals that must be tasted to be believed. Del Maguey, Single Village Mezcal was founded in 1995 by Ron Cooper. It’s tough to get any bigger than Ron Cooper in the mezcal game. Introducing 100 per cent certified organic, artisanal mezcal produced the original handcrafted way, Ron almost single-handedly ended the myth of mezcal as a second-rate spirit or inferior tequila clone. Through deep cultural relationships with Zapotec Mexican Indian producers in the remote villages of Oaxaca, Mexico, Del Maguey harnesses ancient, original organic processes. Combining these methods with varying micro-climates and terroir gives each creation its own unique, rich, sweet and smoky character. Of course, opened doors must be walked through, and, indeed, there are many new mezcals as good as Del Maguey, but it remains the bellwether brand, and mid-way through your third glass (try the Tobala) you’ll surely understand why.
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Knut ° MEET °
Randhem
B
orn and raised in Sweden, Knut has always wanted to become a chef. He got into a restaurant school, but he soon realized that working in the kitchen was not for him. Initially he worked as a waiter, eventually ending up behind the bar. He never stepped out of it since. Currently, he’s the Head Regional Mixologist at Ku Dé Ta.
DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Tell us about your background behind the bar and the bars and places you have worked. Has any stood out for you and why? Knut Randhem: I’ve always wanted to become a chef. So I enrolled in a restaurant school, but soon realized the kitchen wasn’t for me. Initially I worked as a waiter, eventually ending up behind the bar. Right after I finished school, I moved to Copenhagen in Denmark. It was here that I really learned the trade. I spent a few years behind the bar at Hotel Twentyseven, as well as worked in bars around Copenhagen, such as 1105 and Ourselves Alone. My experience extended to doing consultancy, both for the brands and the bars. It was enjoyable for me since I’m interested in the operations side of the bar. After almost 10 years of working in Copenhagen, I decided that it was time for a change. Ku Dé Ta came, and I took the opportunity to do something different. DWA: Tell us about your current role. What’s great about it and what are the challenges? KR: As Ku Dé Ta’s Regional Head Mixologist, I am in charge of the bar programs for all venues. It started with Bangkok. Gromit Eduradsen, my former boss from Nordic Bar Syndicate, and I did the initial staff training and menu development. When he went back to Denmark, I stayed on to maintain it. Then I moved to Ku Dé Ta Singapore to handle the new bar program here while sitting with the project in Hong Kong. It’s really a challenging job because of the volume and the number of people working behind the bars. I learned that creating the world’s best cocktail is a lot easier than getting 60 bartenders to make an Old Fashioned in the same way. But I’m fortunate to have good teams that are very eager to learn and have a drive to improve.
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DWA: What is inspiring you and your drinks at the moment – a trend, a flavour, a style, etc? KR: I’m a very classic inspired bartender at heart. I think that most great drinks have already been invented, but you can still adjust and improve them to certain style or atmosphere. At Ku Dé Ta, we have used a lot of Asian influences both for our food and our drinks. For me, Asian flavours are very clean and crisp. That’s why when creating drinks for our venues, I always keep these in mind. However, I still base signature drinks on classic cocktails or drink formulas. Normally, I balance our light signature cocktails with heavier classic drinks on the menu. DWA: Describe what you think makes a great bartender? KR: I think the difference between a good and a great bartender is confidence. And, behind that confidence is a wealth of knowledge. I’m not only talking about knowing 600 classic drinks or everything about the history of American whiskey. I am talking about knowing your bar, its surroundings and how it functions, what kind of experience are you looking to offer your guests, and what kind of music fits the place. Knowing all these provide you with the tools to make a great impression on your customers. DWA: Ku Dé Ta continues to grow with Hong Kong next on the agenda. Tell us about Singapore and Bangkok, and what can we expect for HK? KR: Bangkok was my first project with Ku Dé Ta. We have a total of five different themed bars that highly focus on providing quality drinks and service over there. And I’m very proud that we are able to offer superb cocktails in all our bars.
Even during busy nights, guests can enjoy great drinks from our team. In Singapore, Ku Dé Ta has been operating for four years now. Although the place has a successful bar program running, we still feel that we can take the cocktails to another level. Currently, we are in the last phase of re-training all the staff, and implementing a more modern Ku Dé Ta way of making drinks, which is more similar to what we do in Bangkok. Our aim is to have the same structure for all Ku Dé Ta bars, but with a local touch. As such, we will be implementing the same structure in Hong Kong. The three-floor bar, located at the California Tower on Lan Kwai Fong, will include a restaurant, a nightclub and a rooftop bar. All will feature the same quality drinks from a team of talented bartenders. We plan to open the bar in mid-March and at the moment, we are still in the recruitment stage. DWA: Tell us what spirits, styles and brands are you enjoying working with at the moment? KR: I like to work with most spirits. For the past 15 years, spirits have been my biggest
hobby, and I am very much fortunate to work with my hobby. But if I have to choose, I would say I’m quite into white rum – everything from smoother Cuban style to white Martinique rums. I don’t know why, but the flavours of white rums fit very well with our Asian-flavoured cocktails. Rum is also my go to spirit when I don’t know what to drink.
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Craft
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qua Spirit, famous for its classy interiors and breathtaking views of Hong Kong harbour, has given discerning drinkers yet another reason to frequent their bar – craft cocktails! They have recently introduced a new cocktail menu inspired by 1960’s New York, bringing a fresh take with a dash of old-school elegance to the bar scene.
The ‘Craft Cocktail’ menu is thoughtfully designed and created by none other than Aqua Spirit’s very own Liquid Chef and Master Mixologist, Joao-Paulo Balzani. Inspired by the classic art of cocktail making, it includes six sophisticated drinks made of small batch organic spirits and 100 per cent natural ingredients, and paired with homemade juices and syrups crafted on a daily basis. All components are creatively mixed together to deliver classic cocktail recipes, served with a twist. Besides the six new creations, guests can also try the delectable ‘Three-Course Craft Cocktail Sampler’. It consists of a light starter cocktail to whet the appetite, followed by a refreshing palate cleanser, and then a fiery tequila infused finale. Both the craft cocktails and the three-course craft cocktail sampler are now served at the famed bar.
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° DRINK ° Craft Cocktails by Joao-Paulo Balzani Made with flavourful, fresh and organic ingredients infused, muddled and blended, these crafted drinks are sure to provide a unique cocktail experience.
THE GARDEN OF ADONIS This aesthetically delightful drink is a twist of the classic Adonis cocktail concocted with short-lived herbs and plants planted by the ladies of Athena. It is said that Athenians used them to celebrate and mourn Adonis, the god of vegetation. TRU Organic Garden Vodka suits very well in this cocktail as it is floral, and together with thyme, blueberry and homemade lemongrass cordial, you will dance with the Athenians in the garden of Adonis. AMALFI COAST This cocktail is formulated to take you to the South coast of Italy, “Amalfi Coast”, where the well-known digestive Limoncello was invented. TRU Lemon Vodka is the perfect base for this cocktail as each small batch of it contains 2,000 pounds of hand-zested organic lemons grown by local farmers. This is a cocktail that looks and tastes like the breezy Italian Amalfi Coast. It is served with basil, organic maple and Limoncello over one large ice ball to finish this cheerful craft cocktail. WILD FIRE Celebrate with the Mayans as the drums resound and feel the heat in this delicious potion prepared with mulberry syrup and fresh mint known for its healing properties. IXÁ Organic Tequila, composed of fully matured agave and produced using traditional techniques, is a tequila worthy of the gods!
THE GARDEN OF ADONIS
AMALFI COAST
WILD FIRE
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THE QUKE
DOS AMIGOS
COCK-TAIL Cock-Tail is derived from the Rooster’s Tail or the Cock’s Tail, used long ago as a Colonial drink garnish. The recipe and presentation of the mix had been created after citations about the origin of the word ‘Cocktail’ found in a book of the 19th century. The drink contains organic fig syrup and Farmer’s Gin – an organic gin produced with the finest botanicals – and is delicately smocked with sherry wood before serving. THE QUKE “The Quke” for the Cucumber, is made of Crop Organic Cucumber flavoured vodka, which is a refreshing, crisp and clean vodka distilled using a process that does not require carbon treatment or charcoal filtration. This take on vodka perfectly blends fresh cucumber, raspberry and Elderflower liqueur. DOS AMIGOS This drink is a blend of George Clooney’s own, Casamigos Tequila, fresh spicy ginger, organic honey, bitters and fresh lime topped with pasteurized egg white for a little texture. The result is a super smooth drink, much like George Clooney.
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COCK-TAIL
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Up Close with Joao-Paulo Balzani: Aqua Spirit’s Liquid Chef and Master Mixologist Born in Brazil and mixed and muddled in Italy, Joao-Paulo started his mixology career at a very early age. He spent much of his teen years practising and honing his bartending skills whilst managing home work. His passion took him to the US cities of New York, Miami and Las Vegas. Heading down to Australia, he competed in bar competitions at the National level. He became well known for flaring, touring the world as part of his career. Based in Hong Kong since 2012, Joao-Paulo never ceases to cultivate his love, art and craft for quality drinking experiences. He is always on the lookout for innovative techniques and fresh, flavourful ingredients to offer his patrons. In December of 2014, he tied the knot with Sharon, after more than four years of being together. When asked about how married life is, he expressed “It’s a wonderful experience. I am lucky to have met Sharon. I’ve never been this happy since the day I met her.”
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Industry Night at I
t is not often that Hong Kong’s leading bartenders get behind the stick together. And when they do, it genuinely results in three things: fun times, good drinks and bad hangovers. Stepping out of their own venues, Michael Callahan, Suraj Gurung, John O’Toole, Marek Vojcarcik, Leo Owen Boys and Anya Lily Montaque took over the bar at Boujis in a rare night of pure fun and camaraderie. Laughter and good natured banter filled the room as people were busy mingling and taking pictures with one another. The night was made even lively with the music mix of the gorgeous Eve Smith on the decks. The excitement turned up as bartenders did some acts while mixing and shaking drinks with incredible skill and speed. From Suraj’s Bacardi Legacy cocktail ‘Mindy’ to Michael’s winter warmer ‘Merriment Mug’, these guys delivered some fantastic cocktails. Leo also had his famous 3-bottle pour on display whilst battling Anya (his girlfriend) for the limelight. As the party progressed, drinks were flowing and Eve’s classic mid-week music mix got the crowd fired up and dancing to the beat. Of course, it’s not only bartenders who were having a wonderful night but the patrons as well. Here’s to a great night of booze, bonding and merriment!
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° FEATURE °
I love doing Industry Night as a way of turning the tables, I guess. Now that most of my day is spent in an office, it’s a blast to make drinks for the same people that I’m usually in meetings with. It’s a great way to let clients and friends blow off a bit of steam, and to remind people from different bars, brands, etc. that we’re all in this together... It’s also payback.
JOHN O’TOOLE
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I like doing Industry Night as it gives us a chance to meet other people in the business that we otherwise wouldn’t because we all work the same hours. Plus, it’s a fun opportunity to mix and drink great cocktails!
ANYA LILY MONTAQUE
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° PROFILE °
Ardbeg The Ultimate Islay Malt Whisky
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stablished in 1815, Ardbeg prides itself on being the ‘Ultimate Islay Malt Whisky’. It is revered by connoisseurs worldwide as the peatiest, smokiest and most complex of all the Islay malts widely available. Despite its smokiness, Ardbeg is renowned for its devilishly delicious sweetness, a phenomenon that has become known as ‘the peaty paradox’. The ‘Ultimate’ Story
No whisky on earth can do in the glass, or to a man’s heart or soul, what Ardbeg does. It teases, it ensnares, it asks you questions you have yet to form. It intrigues. It baffles. If someone asks you to describe it, to explain it… you can’t. It is Ardbeg. It is a paradox. For over 20 years, I have been nosing it. Drinking it. Writing about it. Talking about it. But can I tell you exactly what makes Ardbeg, for me, the greatest whisky in the world? No... And that is why Ardbeg is Ardbeg…
JIM MURRAY April 2005
The long road to Ardbeg has been fraught with many ups and downs throughout the years. While the distillery has enjoyed a century of success, it has also experienced some setbacks. During the 1980s and 1990s, Ardbeg suffered from an uncertain future. It was not until the brand was acquired by The Glenmorangie Company in 1997 that the distillery was saved from oblivion. Since then, the distillery has risen like a phoenix and today Ardbeg is well established as a niche, cult malt with a passionate following.
The ‘Ultimate’ Accolade Ardbeg has been awarded the ultimate accolade three years in a row. In 2008, Ardbeg Ten Years Old was the first single malt Scotch to be declared as ‘World Whisky of the Year’ and ‘Scotch Single Malt of the Year’ by internationally acclaimed whisky expert, Jim Murray. Likewise, Ardbeg Uigeadail scooped the same recognition in Jim Murray’s 2009 and 2010 Whisky Bible editions. Ardbeg continued to receive honours and was named ‘World Whisky of the Year’ by Whisky Magazine at the 2013 Icons of Whisky awards.
The Ardbeg Committee To safeguard the distillery’s future, ‘The Ardbeg Committee’ was formed in 2000. It has thousands of Ardbeg followers across the globe determined to ensure that the doors of Ardbeg never close again. Today, the Ardbeg Committee has 85,000 members in over 130 countries.
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° PROFILE °
TASTING NOTES Ardbeg Ten Years Old A true classic from Islay, Ardbeg Ten Years Old is regarded as the peatiest, smokiest and most complex single malt in the world. This light gold coloured single malt is non chill-filtered and bottled at 46% ABV to maintain its exceptional balance and depth. Aroma: A burst of intense smoky fruit escapes into the atmosphere – peat infused with zesty lemon and lime, wrapped in waxy dark chocolate. Bold menthol and black pepper slice through the sweet smoke followed by tarry ropes and graphite. There’s also the aroma of smoked fish and crispy bacon together with green bell peppers, baked pineapple and pear juice. With water, the depth of the peat opens up, revealing layers of phenols with gristy peat and leather followed by medicinal phenols and a whiff of wood smoke. However, the sweetness of vanilla and the fragrance of citrus fruits are never far behind, maintaining the balance and intrigue. Taste: An explosion of crackling peat sets off millions of flavour explosions on the tongue: peat effervesces with tangy lemon and lime juice, black pepper pops with sizzling cinnamonspiced toffee. This is followed by a wave of brine infused with smooth buttermilk, ripe bananas and currants. Smoke gradually wells up on the palate bringing a mouthful of warm creamy cappuccino and toasted marshmallows. As the taste lengthens and deepens, dry espresso, liquorice root and tarry smoke develop coating the palate with chewy peat oils. Finish: Long and smoky with tarry espresso, aniseed, toasted almonds and traces of soft barley and fresh pear.
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Ardbeg Uigeadail Launched in 2003, Ardbeg Uigeadail is a special vatting that is non chill-filtered and matured in bourbon and sherry casks. Uigeadail – meaning dark and mysterious place in Scots Gaelic – takes its name from the loch which is the water source for the distillery. This classic single malt features a hue of the deepest gold and an ABV of 54.2%. Aroma: Rich and weighty with heady and smoky aromatics, this single malt is both intensely flavoured and perfectly integrated. At full strength, the initial aroma is a beguiling mix of warm fruit cake, walnut oil and parma violets fused with fresh ocean spice, cedar and pine needles. A smouldering smoky coal fire and the deep scent of well-oiled leather brings warmth to the scene. The sweetness of treacle toffees and chocolate-coated raisins bring indulgence through the smoke. With water, the deep smokiness increases in intensity, reminiscent of a well-fired fruit pudding. Tarry smoke and diesel engine oil enter the room bringing aromas of an age gone by. Rich flowering currants and warm baked banana and walnut bread are served with simmering mocha espresso. Taste: Rich and full-flavoured with a deep mouth-coating texture, the taste is an intriguing balance between sweet, spicy and deep smoky flavours. The flavour is initially sweet as fruit cake. A burst of winter spices sets off a smokyspicy explosion countered by a sumptuous mid-palate of honey glazed smoked food and chewy treacle. Waves of deep smoky tones and rich aromas build up on the palate like a fine Montecristo cigar. Finish: Amazingly long and chewy with lingering raisiny, deep mocha tones and rich aromatic smoke.
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ROYAL SALUTE
Unveils 21 Year Old New Look in Hong Kong R
oyal Salute, the world’s leading luxury Scotch whisky, unveiled a new packaging for its 21 Year Old expression at Boujis last December. The launch, which also featured whisky tasting, was well attended and presented by Brand Ambassador Murray Lang.
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° FEATURE °
The 21 Year Old ‘The King of Whiskies’ contemporary new look aims to reinforce its position as a modern luxury product through true embodiment of Power and Grace – The Royal Salute Signature Style. POWER OF NATURE. GRACE OF CRAFTSMEN. Royal Salute 21 YO is 100 per cent natural – it is made using barley carefully selected by the Master Distiller, as well as yeast and water. POWER OF OAK CASK. GRACE OF MASTER COOPER. Only the finest quality bourbon and sherry casks are selected, giving Royal Salute 21 YO its distinctive taste. Using traditional methods and tools, the casks are skillfully put together utilising the ancient art of coopering. POWER OF AGED LIQUID. GRACE OF MASTER BLENDER. An exquisite blend of refined whiskies, all aged 21 years and above, Royal Salute begins where others end. The impeccable blending lineage of Royal Salute 21 YO can only be sustained through a nose worthy of being appointed Royal Salute Master Blender.
commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. The new 21 Year Old flagon remains available in three colours – sapphire, ruby and emerald – with a matching velvet pouch. Elaborate engraving of a lion and cannon smoke on the bottle retains Royal Salute’s rich heritage as a powerful and sophisticated prestige Scotch whisky. In 2012, the brand became the first ever to be officially associated with the Royal Gun Salutes at the Tower of London, highlighting a connection to Royalty that continues its tradition today. “Royal Salute is steeped in royalty and history, and this new contemporary packaging helps us bring the legacy of our crafted whisky to life while showcasing the forward-looking spirit of our brand, presenting a bottle that today’s whisky connoisseurs, collectors and discerning drinkers alike will appreciate,” Global Brand Director for Royal Salute Neil Macdonald says.
POWER OF PORCELAIN FLAGON. GRACE OF PORCELAIN MAKER. Robust and durable, the flagon’s opaque body acts as a guardian of the precious liquid. Crafted over five days by master porcelain makers, the finished vessel produces a perfect F-sharp note to indicate its flawless quality. Royal Salute seeks out the finest materials to craft its blend – from perfectly matured single malt whiskies to the porcelain flagons in which it is presented. Made over five days from Cornish clay in Great Britain, the new 21 Year Old packaging boasts a new artistic decoration on its cap with a guilloché pattern. Meanwhile, the label emphasises the brand’s legacy, dating back to 1953 when Royal Salute was launched to
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ALFRED ° MEET °
COINTREAU
Brings the Cointreau Heritage to the US & HK B
orn and raised in Angers, France, Alfred is a member of the sixth generation family that still runs the Cointreau heritage brand today. As the Heritage Manager for Cointreau, part of his job is to educate the drinks community about the brand, promote it and meet distributors. DWA met up with him in Hong Kong to catch up on the latest projects from Cointreau and his recent trip to the US. DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Where have you been these past few months? Alfred Cointreau: I went to the US for a big tour to promote the Cointreau brand there. I visited eight different cities, including New York, Chicago, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Miami, Portland, Dallas and Austin.
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DWA: Portland’s apparently a big thing. How was the experience for you? AC: It was really nice and very professional! I went back for the Portland Cocktail Week and there was such a huge turnout – 400 bartenders attended the event. It was like a school at the beginning of the week. There were classes with very precise subjects
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that range from starting a career in bartending and what’s next after bartending, to how to take care of your employees and business. All participants were very much involved. DWA: Anything new from the cities you visited? It’s just that for the last six months or so, there’s been a big influx of US brands and distributors bringing US brands. All of a sudden, the focus has gone on to the US. Has anything stood out for you? AC: Well, the US always have cool concepts. DWA: Apart from reinforcing the presence of Cointreau in the US, what was the aim of your visit there? AC: I was there basically to launch two new liqueur recipes – Guignolet and Camomille. These two recipes are intended for the bartenders in the US only and are incorporated in our “La Collection d’Edouard”. We’re promoting this collection on a small business approach and produce 1,000 cases for each recipe for distribution in 300 US bars. As part of the project, we created the Collectif 1806 comprised of eight amazing American bartenders (Kyle Ford is among them) with impressive knowledge of the industry. They will act as product advocates in-charge of the Remy Cointreau portfolio, but their work would focus more on promoting the La Collection d’Edouard. To support them in their roles, we created a library boasting 250 cocktails’ books which we have digitalized with character research. This library will travel around the US and allow people to read while sipping their favourite cocktails. The man behind this innovative concept is Richard Lambert. DWA: On to Asia. Where did you go? AC: I went to Shanghai for the 2nd edition of the Cointreau Queen Cocktail Competition. It’s an all-female bartender competition and I was the judge in the final. It was very well organised and the approach was good. I also made a stop in Hangzhou, a small city close to Shanghai. DWA: Tell us about the training session in Hong Kong. What surprised/impressed you? AC: It was really good. A lot of bartenders attended, and they’re interested and eager to know all about Cointreau. DWA: Why do you think it’s important to know about the history of Cointreau and know why it’s made?
AC: I think in Asia in general, it is quite important to have some knowledge about the brand especially since there are a lot of “Made in France” products available. It could be Cointreau, Chanel or other French brands for that matter. I am not expecting people to know everything about Cointreau, but a few things that would easily identify with the brand would be great. For example, the square bottle and the orange colour. When people see it, they would know right away that it’s Cointreau. In general, people are really curious and will try to find the information they need either from books or on the Internet. However, being able to meet me or talk to me in person will give them a deeper understanding of the history of the brand, the family philosophy and its legacy.
DWA: Lastly, what is your perception of how the bartending community views Cointreau in general? AC: All the bartenders know Cointreau, of course, because they know the classical cocktails. But sometimes the bottle sits at the back of the bar, unused, because they perceive it as a “grandmother’s liqueur”. A key part of my job is to explain to them that what was good for your grandmother is still good for you today! We have classical recipe, but we are also a very modern brand and often bring an unconventional touch. As a brand, Cointreau remains really involved in the bartending community and continues to build a really good connection with the bartenders, as we have since the beginning.
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째 FEATURE 째
& THE
ALFRED
COINTREAU C
LEGACY
ointreau has a history as colourful as the liqueur itself and who better to give us an insight into its rich heritage than Alfred Cointreau himself, 6th generation of the Cointreau family. As Heritage Manager, one of his roles is to educate the drinks community about the brand.
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Held at the Quinary, the masterclass was a success. More than 40 bartenders came and attended the event, which made for a more intimate and personal discussion. Throughout the training session, bartenders were actively participating and asking questions. Alfred started the masterclass with a history presentation on Cointreau, sharing some interesting facts about the brand and its products. During the session, he showed some vintage cocktail books which piqued the curiosity of the bartenders. Highlights of the event included the vintage and new Cointreau comparison tasting as well as the introduction of the new Perlini bottling system with Cointreau fizzy. When asked about his impression of the training session, Alfred expressed “It was really good. I was happy to know that a lot of bartenders are interested and eager to know all about Cointreau.”
Cointreau Party at The Envoy One of the highlights of Alfred’s visit to Hong Kong was the Cointreau party at The Envoy. Around 100 guests showed up that evening, all very eager and excited to meet the 6th generation of Cointreau. Drinks were flowing as different variations of Cointreau Fizz were served. There’s Strawberry & Basil, Yuzu & Lime, Blueberry & Orange and Raspberry & Cucumber, all made with soda water and Cointreau. As the party went underway, guests were treated to an array of delectable canapés, including blood orangemarinated wild duck skewers, crispy smoked salmon Idaho potato balls with yogurt, Iberico ham and cucumber roll with passion fruit mayonnaise, and mango and chocolate mousse filo tart. The night was even made more exciting when Alfred gave a speech and bottles of special edition Cointreau were handed out as gifts to some of the guests. Until the next Cointreau party!
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° PROFILE °
The World of
W
ith a heritage that spans 180 years, González Byass is globally recognised as a producer of fine wines and brandies from Jerez, Spain. The González family’s passion for wine has inspired them to not only spread the culture of sherry throughout the world but also to transform the house into a family of wineries that exemplifies Spain’s winemaking diversity. From the iconic Tio Pepe to the Soberano and Lepanto marques, González Byass’ legacy continues. HISTORY AND HERITAGE González Byass’ long tradition of winemaking excellence began when Manuel Maria González Angel decided to join the thriving and lucrative sherry business. Counselled by his uncle, Jose Angel de la Peña, he set up his company in 1835. He knew from the beginning that the company’s future would depend on exports and that the market was the United Kingdom. Hence, the first export of 10 barrels left for London. The following year, 62 barrels were shipped. At the end of 1836, Manuel Maria started working with Robert Blake Byass. Sales grew year after year, and the company was expanding into France, Germany and even as far as Russia.
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The expansion prompted Manuel Maria to construct La Constancia. In 1844, the first barrels of Tio Pepe were exported to England. Years later, Manuel Maria dedicated a small bodega to his uncle and wrote on one of the casks in chalk “Solera del Tio Pepe”. It was here in this bodega that Jose Angel and his friends began to meet and enjoy the wine of Tio Pepe. Thus, the iconic sherry brand was born. By 1855, Robert Blake Byass became a partner in the business. In 1857, Los Apostoles was inaugurated and La Cuadrada, two years later. At the same time, modern stills were set up for brandy production. These stills utilise the same traditional solera and criadera techniques used in sherry ageing. Later in 1863, the company was renamed González Byass.
The 19th century saw González Byass expanding at a steady pace. In 1963, the Gran Bodega Tio Pepe was constructed, with a capacity of 30,000 barrels. Bodega Las Copas, with a capacity of around 60,000 barrels, came next in 1972. Others followed suit, including La Concha and the Lepanto bodega. In 1988, the Byass family withdrew from the company. Although no Byass descendant is associated with González today, the brand name remains. Over the past 30 years, González Byass has turned itself into a family of wineries. It now owns vineyards in some of Spain’s wine producing regions: Bodegas Beronia (Rioja), Cavas Vilarnau (Barcelona), Finca Constancia (Toledo), Finca Moncloa (Cádiz) and Viñas del Vero (Somontano). The company has also
expanded into the premium spirits business, with brands such as The London Nº1, Original Blue Gin and Druide Vodka. The González family was not only at the forefront of sherry winemaking but also in the installation of the first electric lighting and running water in the plant, as well as numerous other industrial and cultural innnovations. It has also played a leading role in the exciting story of brandy from Jerez. Some 180 years later after its inception, González Byass remains a family operated company. Today, it stands as the first Spanish winery and sixth in the world in the “Top 100 Wineries of 2014” ranking at the World Association of Journalists and Writers of Wines and Spirits (WAWWJ).
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° PROFILE ° WINERIES Bodegas Beronia (Rioja) Acquired by González Byass in 1982, Bodegas Beronia is one of the wineries most representative of the company. It markets more than 4 million bottles of wine and at present has more than 25,000 barrels with an average age of less than five years. Moreover, Beronia produces a classic line of fine and well-balanced wines, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva in the pure, traditional Rioja style. The grape varieties used here are all authorised by the Appellation of Origin of Rioja and include Tempranillo (90%), Graciano (3%), Mazuelo (3%) and Viura (4%). Cavas Vilarnau Vilarnau has been producing high standard cavas and wines since 1948. In 1982, the winery became a part of González Byass. It is one of the few vineyards in the area that controls the entire winemaking process. All its cavas are produced using the traditional method of a second fermentation in the bottle and are aged on lees. Its product range consists of Vilarnau Brut, Demi-sec, Brut Nature, Rosé, Gran
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Reserva Vintage and Albert de Vilarnau. Vilarnau’s philosophy is based on respect for the terroir and the environment. Every single process – from the vineyard itself to winemaking, packaging and recycling – is environmentally friendly in homage to its ancestors’ origins and tradition. Finca Moncloa Located in Arcos de la Frontera, Cádiz, the winery is dedicated to the production of high quality red wines. Both traditional, regional winemaking techniques and modern new world techniques are used. Grape varieties planted here include Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Tintilla de Rota. The wine of Finca Moncloa is produced in the winery of González Byass in Jerez as everything essential can be found for the production, ageing, stabilisation and bottling of white and red wines. Finca Constancia This winery in Toledo produces a variety of young and fruity wines, as well as more
complex and mature wines. It cultivates a mix of international and indigenous grape varieties, including Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Graciano, Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Wines crafted here are marketed under the brand names Altozano and Finca Constancia, and are considered to be amongst the best wines in Spain. Viñas del Vero Acquired by González Byass in 2008, Viñas del Vero is the number one winery in terms of volume and quality in the Denomination of Origin Somontano. Producing more than 6 million bottles a year, it accounts for 45% of the production of the entire DO. Viñas del Vero’s wines have become a point of reference and its broad portfolio includes young wines (Chardonnay, rosé and red), Crianzas (Chardonnay, Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon), Viñas del Vero collection (Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Pinot Noir), Winemaker’s selection (Clarion and Gran Vos) and the specialties (Secastilla, Blecua and Limited Series).
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González Byass的美酒世界 创立至今180年的西班牙赫雷斯González Byass,盛 产享誉全球的顶级葡萄酒和白兰地酒。对美酒满 怀热诚的González家族,不但把雪莉酒的文化推 广到世界各地,也通过多样化的业务体现当地多 姿多彩的美酒文化,经典的Tio Pepe、Soberano和 Lepanto皆成为传奇名酿。
历史与传统 当年青的Manuel Maria González Angel决定加入蓬 勃的雪莉酒业之际,González Byass的悠久历史便 正式展开。他在叔叔Jose Angel de la Peña的指导下 于1835年成立公司,积极开拓英国的出口市场, 率先向伦敦出口10桶酒,翌年的数量更增至62 桶。在1836年底,Manuel Maria开始与Robert Blake Byass合作,业务蒸蒸日上,后来更扩大至法国、 德国和俄罗斯。 为配合业务迅速发展,Manuel Maria 决定兴建La Constancia酒厂,出品的第一批Tio Pepe在1844年运 往英国。多年后,他把一家小酒厂献给叔叔,并 在一个酒箱上写上“Solera del Tio Pepe”,这里成 为Jose Angel de la Peña和朋友欢聚畅饮Tio Pepe之 地,而经典雪莉酒品牌也由此诞生。 1855年,Robert Blake Byass成为公司的合作伙 伴,在1857年成立Los Apostoles后,两年后再开 设La Cuadrada。与此同时,公司也设置现代的蒸 馏器酿造白兰地酒,并借用雪莉酒的传统陈化技 术。公司最终在1863年更名为González Byass。 酒厂在19世纪稳步发展,在1963年兴建Gran Bodega Tio Pepe酒厂,能贮藏3万桶酒,而能存放 近6万桶酒的Bodega Las Copas则在1972年建成,陆 续落成的还有La Concha和Lepanto。Byass家族在 1988年退股后,品牌继续保留其家族姓氏。 过去30年,González Byass旗下已设立多家酒
厂,也在西班牙产酒区拥有多个酒庄,包括里奥 哈的Bodegas Beronia、巴塞罗那的Cavas Vilarnau、 托莱多的Finca Constancia、加的斯的Finca Moncloa 和索蒙塔诺的Viñas del Vero。同时,公司更推出 The London Nº1, Original Blue Gin和Druide Vodka等 品牌,开拓高级烈酒市场。 González家族不但是雪莉酒业的先驱,也率先在 酒厂安装电灯和自来水,在工业和文化上推陈出 新,对赫雷斯白兰地酒的发展更是举足轻重。 创立180年后,González Byass仍然由家族经 营,不但是西班牙最大的酿酒品牌,更在World Association of Journalists and Writers of Wines and Spirits的2014年百大酒厂名单中位列第六。
酿酒厂 里奥哈Bodegas Beronia González Byass在1982年收购的Bodegas Beronia是公 司旗下最著名的酒厂之一,每年销售超过400万瓶 酒,现在的窖藏达25,000桶,平均陈年不足五年。 Bodegas Beronia出品一系列经典佳 酿,Crianza、Reserva和Gran Reserva级别的葡萄酒 都体现传统的里奥哈特色,而所用的葡萄品种都 经里奥哈产区认可,包括丹魄 (90%)、格拉西亚 诺 (3%)、马士罗 (3%)和维奥娜(4%)。 Cavas Vilarnau Cavas Vilarnau从1948年起出产优质气泡酒和葡萄 酒,并在1982年成为González Byass旗下酒厂,是 区内少数自行处理整个酿造过程的酒庄。气泡酒 以传统的方法酿造,在瓶内进行第二次发酵, 陈化时瓶内留有酒渣。酒庄的出品包括Vilarnau Brut、Demi-sec、Brut Nature、Rosé、Gran Reserva Vintage和Albert de Vilarnau。
酒庄的宗旨是保留风土和环境的特色,从种植 葡萄到酿造、包装和回收,每一个步骤都重视环 保,尊重前人的传统。
Finca Moncloa Finca Moncloa位于加的斯阿尔科斯-德拉弗龙特 拉,致力结合当地传统方法和现代的酿造技术, 酿造顶级红酒,所用的葡萄品种包括丹魄、赤霞 珠、西拉、美乐、品丽珠、味而多和萝塔。 酒庄的葡萄酒在González Byass的赫雷斯酒厂酿 造,厂内设施齐备,生产红白酒、陈化、沉淀和 装瓶的设备一应俱全。 Finca Constancia 位于托莱多的Finca Constancia出品果味清新的新酿 葡萄酒,也有醇厚香浓的陈年佳酿。酒庄种植海 外和本地的原生葡萄品种,包括丹魄、赤霞珠、 西拉、品丽珠、味而多、格拉西亚诺、弗德乔、 长相思和霞多丽,并以Altozano和Finca Constancia 两大品牌跻身西班牙顶级葡萄酒之列。 Viñas del Vero González Byass在2008年买下的Viñas del Vero酒 庄,以产量和品质计算,是索蒙塔诺产区首屈一 指的酒庄,每年出产超过600万瓶佳酿,占整个产 区的45%。 酒庄的出品备受推崇,口味丰富,包括新酿的 葡萄酒(霞多丽、玫瑰红酒和红酒)、 Crianza级美 酒(霞多丽、丹魄—赤霞珠)、Viñas del Vero系列 (琼瑶浆、霞多丽、美乐、赤霞珠、西拉和黑皮 诺)、酿酒师精选(Clarion和Gran Vos)和特色佳酿 (Secastilla、Blecua和限量系列)。
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° PROFILE ° PRODUCT PORTFOLIO / 名酿系列 González Byass’ sherries cover the whole spectrum of Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, Pedro Ximenez and Pale Cream, allowing consumers to vary their drinks selection to suit every possible occasion. The company also produces brandy, and famous brands include Soberano and Lepanto. In addition to the wines and brandies from Jerez, Beronia, Finca Constancia and the cavas and wines of Vilarnau, González Byass also distributes other brands, including London Nº1 Gin, the fruit liquors Gran Pecher and Gran Pomier, Chinchon, as well as oils and vinegars from Hacienda de Bracamonte. González Byass的雪莉酒种类繁多,Manzanilla、Fino、Amontillado、Palo Cortado、Oloroso、Pedro Ximenez和Pale Cream应有尽有,适合不同的场合,而Soberano和Lepanto白兰地酒也享誉全球。 除了赫雷斯、Beronia和Finca Constancia的葡萄酒和白兰地酒,以及Vilarnau的气泡酒和葡 萄酒,González Byass也分销其他品牌,包括London Nº1 Gin、水果烈酒Gran Pecher和Gran Pomier、Chinchon,还有Hacienda de Bracamonte的油和香醋。
Rediscovering Sherry / 雪莉魅力再现 Words / 撰文 | Josef Murray TIO PEPE Named after Manuel González’s uncle – Jose Angel de la Peña – Tio Pepe is the brand for which González Byass is best known for. It was the first fino sherry sold in England in the mid-19th century, and it gradually gained recognition in other markets. Today, it is an icon in sherry wine and the Spanish consumer product enjoyed by the largest number of countries around the globe. Tio Pepe is made using gently pressed
Palomino Fino, a grape variety that thrives in the chalky soil of Jerez. It is then aged in American oak barrels for an average of four years utilising traditional solera system, during which the wine undergoes ageing under a layer of yeast called flor. This gives Tio Pepe its distinct colour, aroma and character. With a light nose of dried flowers, almonds and olives as well as a dry palate dominated by chalky notes, Tio Pepe is a good introduction to Fino Sherry.
Tio Pepe
Tio Pepe所用的Palomino Fino葡萄在赫雷斯的 白垩土质上茁壮生长,轻轻压榨后以美国橡木 桶和传统的索莱拉系统陈化四年,期间酒液会 在一层酵母下陈化,赋予成品独特的色泽、香 味和个性。 Tio Pepe带有干花、杏仁和橄榄的清新香气, 口感干爽,带有白垩的味道,是出色的Fino雪 莉酒
以Manuel González的叔叔Jose Angel de la Peña命 名的Tio Pepe是González Byass最为人熟悉的品 牌。这种Fino雪莉酒在19世纪中率先运往英国 出售,后来在其他市场也渐受欢迎,现在更是 雪莉酒的典范,也是全球最多人享用的西班牙 消费品。
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Sherry has been making a dramatic resurgence worldwide. These days, restaurants and bars showcase sherry with both respect and appreciation. Sherry is a complex wine with different attributes of quality and enjoyment, expressed across a broad range of different styles. To be enjoyed on its own, with food or as a key element in cocktails, the versatility of the world’s most famous fortified wine is still being discovered. You are spoilt for choice when it comes to exploring and finding the style that best suits you as an individual. Gone are the tags of “what Grandma used to drink.” The consumers of sherry are becoming younger every year as the experience and distinction of consumers expand. We are faced with producers showcasing some amazing wines from family owned and run bodegas holding onto traditions that, for some, date back to the 13th century when Jerez
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was liberated from the 800-year occupation by the Moors. The close knit community of producers through the Sherry Triangle cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María, Andalusia, Southern Spain are wonderful advocates of sherry who not only produce a great product but are also some straight up great people. Focusing on one of Spain’s most celebrated bodegas, González Byass continues to produce historical labels such as Tio Pepe Fino and Apostoles Palo Cortado. In particular, the Tio Pepe En Rama we have listed is a limited edition label that is released every year. Master Blender Antonio Flores hand-selects from a total of 20,000 Tio Pepe barrels the best 600. He then closely monitors them during their maturation and chooses the 60 barrels that show the depth and flavour he is looking for. These are then blended and bottled with minimal filtration for a refined taste that can only be experienced from consuming straight from the cask. Ham & Sherry and 22 Ships are dedicated to showcasing Jerez wine, its attributes, range and history to our guests in Hong Kong and Asia. At
Ham & Sherry, we list over 50 labels and offer the most comprehensive selection of all styles in Asia. With 22 Ships, we have joined forces with González Byass and put together our own label – 22nd Ship, The Lost Ship Palo Cortado (usually called Leonor) – which continues to be a favourite with our guests. Sherry is continuing to grow in popularity across Asia. People are realising that the world of fine wine is not just champagne, white and red, but also includes the likes of sherry and port. People are happy to try something new, and it’s up to us as facilitators to give them the opportunity and deliver the product the best way possible.
近年雪莉酒在世界各地再度掀起热潮,餐厅酒吧 无不对其推崇备至。这种复杂的酒别具特色,口 味多变,除了直接享用,也能配上美食,甚至调 配鸡尾酒。这种全球最有名的加度葡萄酒变化无 穷,使酒客深感着迷。 多不胜数的选择让每一个人都能找到最合意的 口味,使这种一度被视为落伍的酒,渐渐成为年 轻顾客的宠儿。
目前有多个家族经营的酒庄也出品优质的佳 酿,并坚守传统,沿用摩尔人离开西班牙后, 赫雷斯在13世纪开始采用的方法。位于西班牙 南部安达卢西亚的赫雷斯-德拉弗龙特拉、桑卢 卡尔-德巴拉梅达和圣玛丽亚港是著名的雪莉酒金 三角,当地的酒庄努力推广优质的雪莉酒,而且 友善务实。 西班牙著名酒厂González Byass现在仍然生产历 史悠久的美酒,例如Tio Pepe Fino和Apostoles Palo Cortado,而Tio Pepe En Rama则是每年推出的限 量佳酿。资深调酒师Antonio Flores会在2万桶Tio Pepe里亲自挑选最优质的600桶,然后在陈化的过 程里仔细观察,选出深度与味道也更胜一筹的60 桶,接着直接进行调配和装瓶,带来原桶品尝的 独特滋味。 另外,Ham & Sherry与22 Ships也致力向香港和亚 洲的酒客推广赫雷斯的美酒,热心介绍它们的特 点、口味和历史。Ham & Sherry带来逾50种佳酿, 数量为亚洲之冠,而22 Ships则与González Byass合 作,呈献只此一家的22nd Ship, The Lost Ship Palo Cortado (一般称为Leonor),深受客人欢迎。 雪莉酒在亚洲的热潮方兴未艾,令人明白除了 香槟、红酒和白酒,雪莉酒和波特酒也是值得细 尝的美酒。人们乐意尝新,我们自然要担当桥梁 的角色,尽力满足他们的渴求。
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° PROFILE ° THE LONDON Nº1 Known as the Original Blue Gin, The London Nº1 is one of a handful of premium gins actually distilled in London. It was created to reflect the complex and full bodied gins of yesteryear, but with a modern twist – a luminous, pale yet bright torquoise-blue colour. Made from the highest quality English grain spirit from Suffolk and Norfolk, The London Nº1 is triple distilled in small batches under the watchful eye of Master Distiller Charles Maxwell. Distillation takes place in a traditional pot still with 12 carefully selected botanicals – juniper, coriander, angelica, lemon peel, cassia bar, liquorice, cinnamon, almond, savory, orris root and orange root. It also contains gardenia and bergamot – that easily recognisable perfumed aroma most often encountered in Earl Grey tea. Bottled at 47% ABV, The London Nº1 is delicate and elegant on the nose with noticeable spicy and balsamic notes. It is soft, elegant and mellow on the palate with a long refreshing finish, all of which adds up to a sophisticated, well-rounded gin that delivers in every area.
The London Nº1 有“Original Blue Gin”之称的The London Nº1是少数在伦敦蒸馏的顶级杜松 子酒,既有传统杜松子酒的层次与丰腴,通透的蓝绿色酒液也饶富现代色 彩。 以萨福克郡和诺福克郡顶级谷物酿造的The London Nº1,在酿酒师Charles Maxwell的监督下以传统装置经三次蒸馏而成,所用的12种材料包括杜松、 香菜、当归、柠檬皮、桂皮、甘草、肉桂、杏仁、香薄荷、鸢尾根和橘子 根,另外也加入伯爵茶常用的栀子花和佛手柑。 酒精浓度为47%的The London Nº1香气细致优雅,带有明显的辛辣和香脂味 道,口感柔顺细腻,余韵悠长清新,堪称面面俱圆的顶级杜松子酒。
“The London Nº1 has a place on the back bar at Ping Pong. It’s a bridge between the Mediterranean gins we specialise in, and the gins of my motherland. It’s a drink for people that crave London Dry juniper-heavy spirits to the herbaceous and citrusy Spanish gins we stock and import. It’s strong, punchy and peppery with menthol notes, which holds up well in mixed drinks and equally in a simple gin and tonic. With the Gin market being so heavily saturated in the most recent years, people don’t mind not having the accolade of ‘London Dry’. I don’t think this is necessarily a bad thing as it diversifies the category and leaves the bartender with a heavier arsenal and another choice for the consumer. Gins these days are coming from nooks and crannies all over the world (even somewhere as awful as Clapham). Is it my go to Gin? No, but it is for many of our customers at Ping Pong.” “The London Nº1在Ping Pong Bar也占据重要的席位,因为它在我们专长的地中海杜松子酒和西班牙的出品之间架设了 一道桥梁,既有伦敦干杜松子酒的杜松香气,也有西班牙酒的香草和柑橘味道,鲜明刚劲,辛辣中带有薄荷的清新,即使调 配其他饮料或配以简单的汤力水,味道依然突出。 近年杜松子酒市场非常蓬勃,即使没有“伦敦干杜松子酒”的标签也同样受欢迎。我认为这不一定是坏事,反而让调酒师和顾客 有更多选择。现在,世界各地也酿造杜松子酒(连克拉珀姆也有!)。The London Nº1虽然不是我的最爱,但不少顾客却对 它情有独钟。”
LEO OWEN-BOYS Ping Pong Bar
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NOMAD OUTLAND WHISKY Nomad Outland Whisky is a product of the team up of González Byass Master Blender Antonio Flores and whisky guru Richard Paterson. Together they have turned the traditional Scotch ageing process on its head by taking the distilled spirit to Jerez to mature in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. This gives Nomad’s quintessential Scottish character and a soul that’s truly Jerezano. Nomad’s aromas and flavours have been enhanced by this innovative process, where the whisky is allowed to imbibe the native yeasts, flors, humidity and sea breezes that fill the famous González Byass cellars in Jerez. The result is a smooth, rounded and mellow whisky that stands out from the rest and which challenges and excites consumers looking for something different. This original blend is made with whiskies between 5 and 8 years old, which are left to mature in sherry casks in Scotland for three years altogether and then transferred to Jerez to age in the González Byass cellars for a minimum of 12 months. It’s a unique formulation with more than 30 different single malt and grain whiskies, blended in the Highlands of Scotland, using whiskies principally sourced from Speyside.
Nomad Outland Whisky Nomad Outland Whisky是González Byass调酒师 Antonio Flores和威士忌大师Richard Paterson的心 血结晶,他们革新了传统苏格兰威士忌的陈化过 程,把完成蒸馏的威士忌运往赫雷斯,放在曾盛 载佩德罗‧希梅内斯雪莉酒的酒桶内陈化,使酒 液拥有经典的苏格兰风格,也有赫雷斯的神韵。 balanced overall with 他们也以创新的工序提升威士忌的香气和味 道,促进酒液与原生酵母的化学作用,也善用当 地潮湿的气候和柔和的海风,酿造出顺滑丰腴、 芳醇馥郁的出色威士忌,独树一帜。 这款佳酿混合了五至八年的威士忌,放在苏格 兰的雪莉酒桶内陈化三年,再运到赫雷斯González Byass酒窖存放12个月以上。独一无二的配方采用 30多种来自苏格兰斯佩赛德的单一麦芽和单一谷 物威士忌,并在苏格拉高地调配。
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° MEET °
Sergi Rostoll
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s the Regional Sales Director for González Byass, Sergi travels throughout the Asia Pacific to promote the brand’s beautiful wines and spirits portfolio.
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DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Please introduce yourself and your background. What is your history with the business and your current role and scope? SERGI ROSTOLL ROIG: I am Sergi Rostoll, Asia-Pacific Regional Sales Director for González Byass. I have lived in Asia for more than 12 years. During the past 5 years, I have been travelling an average of more than 200 days per year, selling and promoting González Byass’ beautiful wines and spirits portfolio. Most of my time, I shuffle through Tokyo, Shanghai, Singapore, Hong Kong and Manila. DWA: Tell us about the company’s performance in recent times in Europe and or any other established market. What is happening there and how is the company perceived by the trade in those markets? SRR: Our overall performance is very good in key European markets. Last year, we grew in the UK, Germany and Scandinavia, and we have maintained our position in other markets such as Holland and Belgium. We have invested heavily in the German market over recent years with a González Byass team on the ground to facilitate growth in Europe’s key market. In addition, we acquired a distribution arm in the US last year, and are now looking to build our presence considerably there both above and below the line investment. DWA: What is your vision for Asia? How do you intend to bring that vision to life? SRR: In González Byass, we have an amazing brand portfolio. Premium spirits are gaining a lot of importance for us in Asia. We launched London Nº1 Gin in Asian markets just 4 years ago. In July 2014, we launched Nomad Whisky worldwide in Taipei. Lepanto, our premium brand, is of excellent quality and also a historic brand. At the same time, our main business in Asia is still wines, being our leading brand Beronia from Rioja. Furthermore, we do a lot of work around sherries, introducing them into mixology and pairings with local cuisines. In Asia, we expect to keep growing over the next years at a steady pace by positioning our brands well in the ever-evolving on trade. DWA: What are the products within your portfolio you would like the trade to become excited about first and why? SRR: London Nº1 Gin is still a young brand and it is our priority to continue developing it. Nomad Whisky, on the other hand, is a unique “Outland” whisky, backed by a rich history and unique flavour profile. It has been launched in Taiwan with great success and we are launching it soon in other markets around the region. Meanwhile, Tio Pepe and our sherries are some of the best wines in the world that we are only starting to discover in Asia. Sherries are served now more often in fine dining restaurant concepts and cocktail bars. DWA: Tell us about the partners you have set up across Asia to distribute your product and why you selected them? SRR: Being a family owned business, González Byass, in its 5th generation now, is very careful in choosing our partners around the globe. The objective of the family is to be successful at least five generations more. We look to establish very close relationships with our partners, making them part of the family. As such, we work with companies with the same values that we know will take care of our brands with a longterm vision.
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째 FEATURE 째
The World of
BEER B
usiness consolidation and globalisation has had many benefits for the consumer, not least of which has been the price and availability of many goods and services. However, one area where the creation of global brands has arguably had a cost, is in the idea of regionality and local flavour. And this is particularly so in the world of beer. WORDS 째 Matt Kirkegaard Once upon a time, beer much more clearly reflected local conditions and produce, with native yeasts, hop varieties, water and malting techniques all ensuring the beer bore the mark of its home. Unlike wine, however, which tends to be produced close to where the grapes are grown, barley, hops and yeast are easily transportable. Water chemistry is also easily manipulated to mirror the water conditions of any region, so brewers can easily replicate styles anywhere in the world, which has seen a rise in generic beers that fit a wide global net. Today, we are seeing a resurgence of craft brewing and an explosion in the number of beer styles, both through styles being resurrected and also popularised further afield. While there is a huge selection of styles, the modern brewing renaissance reflects less the local conditions than trends, culture and tastes. The modern beer tourist now has a wealth of options, both from countries with very traditional brewing cultures, such as Germany, the Czech Republic, Belgium and the UK, through to brewers who are putting a much more modern spin on the humble brew.
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The United States It would be easy to dismiss the beers of the United States. However, the US is actually the powerhouse in interesting and flavoursome beer. It can lay claim to being the catalyst to the current global beer renaissance, which traces its origins back to the birth of the Sierra Nevada brewery in 1979. At that stage, there were fewer than 100 breweries in the whole of the US, and the country had faced several generations of consolidation and brewery closures. Sierra Nevada pioneered the hoppy pale ale – big citrus notes and assertive bitterness – now referred to as the American Pale Ale. It sparked three decades of brewery growth that continues today and has ignited a global trend. Today, there are more than 2,800 breweries across the US, with estimates of more than 500 in planning. The spread and diversity of beer in the country makes it high on the ‘must visit’ list for those looking to combine beer and travel. US brewers have been the great innovators in modern brewing, reviving, inventing and reinventing beer styles and creating excitement for beer and experimentation, not to mention inspiring the global craft beer movement. Today, almost 50 per cent of US beer sales are through its exports of craft beer. US HOTSPOTS: • Denver, Colorado Home to the US’ largest beer festival – the annual Great American Beer Festival – which represents the greatest concentration of breweries and beer diversity in the world. The city itself, with a population of 630,000, boasts more than 30 breweries within a half hour drive of the city centre, and the state of Colorado has more than 150. Names include Wynkoop Brewpub, Great Divide, and the Coors-owned Blue Moon Brewing Co.
• Portland, Oregon Often regarded as Beervana in the US, Portland supports almost 70 independent craft breweries and locals estimate that nearly 40 per cent of beer consumed in the city is craft. Portland is also home to the Oregon Brewer’s Festival, the Portland International Beer Festival and Portland Beer Week. Names include Deschutes Brewery, The Commons Brewery and Bridgeport. • San Diego, California The US deserves its own article to fully cover the intricacies of the local beer scene, particularly when many consider East Coast and West Coast breweries to have their own distinct signatures for styles such as India Pale Ale. San Diego is the heartland of the West Coast style, with big names such as Stone Brewing, Green Flash, Ballast Point and AleSmith.
Germany One of the most inventive and exciting brewing countries, yet one of the most rigid and traditional, but in the world of beer that’s by no means a bad thing. Beer is so embedded in German culture that when a US brewer recently set up his brewery in Berlin, he asked about obtaining a license to
sell his beer. The local officials looked at him quizzically and said, “You sell beer…Why would you need a license to sell beer?” Travel through Germany and drinking local is to sample history and beer styles as you go. The Germans have a deep respect for brewing tradition, but its enjoyment is a casual ritual. Beers such as kölsch of Cologne – the world’s only appellation control beer that can only be so-called if brewed in the city limits – has a long tradition. When golden lagers gained popularity following the birth of the pilsner style in Bohemia in 1842, breweries that were unable to produce lager beer made their ales lighter flavoured and paler than the darker beers they had formerly made, while still brewing them as ales. In Cologne, this resulted in the golden kölsch style, which was formalised following the First World War and its name protected by the European Union in 1997. Cities such as Dusseldorf on the other hand continued to hold onto the older, darker styles, even naming them altbier (old beer), compared to the newer lager style. Despite holding onto their ale traditions, the Germans are no slouches when it comes to lagers either. The name ‘lager’ itself is derived from the German word ‘to store’ and harkens
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° DRINK °
back to the practice of storing beer made in March in cool caves to preserve it through the coming hot summer months when brewing was not possible. In doing so, brewers inadvertently were favouring the colder fermenting yeasts and the beers changed in character, becoming crisper, as they were lagered. When brewing could recommence with the cooler weather of late September and early October, the leftover March – or märzen – beers were consumed. The traditional beer of Munich’s Oktoberfest is the amber-coloured märzenbier for this reason. Munich, and the rest of Bavaria, are also famous for the fruity and refreshing weizenbier, or wheat beer. These top fermented ales, made with 50 per cent wheat malt in addition to barley malt, are very distinctive due to the fruity esters and clove-like phenolic compounds thrown off by the yeast during fermentation. Perhaps the most distinctive beers of Germany are those of Franconia, made in Bamberg, with their distinctive smoked character. Highly traditional, these are beers that link back to a time when all malts would have been dried over fires. Just as many Scotch whiskies derive their distinctiveness from the peatsmoked malts used, the rauchbiers (smoked beers) of Bamberg are made with malts dried over beechwood fires and take on a character reminiscent of smoked ham. It’s a style that – no pun intended – has reignited a move towards adding a hint of smoke to many craft beer styles.
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Britain With its reputation for warm and flat beer, Britain may be seen as a place to avoid for beer lovers. But, as is always the case with beer, context is everything. In the context of their history and development, cask-conditioned ales – beers that undergo a secondary fermentation in the keg to provide a natural carbonation – are a beauty. Cask-conditioned ales are comparatively low in carbonation due to the conditioning process and ‘warm’ at 8-10 degrees, as they are cellar cooled rather than refrigerated. Their gradual decline sparked one of the largest consumer movements in the world – The Campaign for Real Ale – to preserve the treasured ales. Despite its traditions, and the competing move towards the convenience and security of international lagers, Britain has embraced the modern craft beer movement eagerly. The UK abounds with traditional ale breweries and modern craft breweries, with Meantime, BrewDog and Camden Brewery – the latter owned by Australian Jasper Cuppaidge – among the best of the new breed.
Belgium If the United States is worth its own article on its regions and the possibilities it offers the beer traveller, Belgium is worth a book – a long one at that. Despite its size, Belgium is arguably the spiritual home of good beer. Beer styles and regionality are problematic for
Belgian beers. Unlike the ever precise Germans, brewing in Belgium is very idiosyncratic and only the vaguest groupings can be offered for their styles. While microbrewing is the buzz in the New World, it is the way of life in Belgium. Wherever you go in the country, you can’t help but stumble upon a brewery making something interesting and flavoursome. Though brewing traditions are ancient here, beer styles themselves constantly evolve. A great example is the Belgian witbier (white beer), lately popularised by Hoegaarden. The style had died out in the 1950s as drinking fashions changed, only to be revived a decade later by local milkman Pierre Celis who fondly remembered the beer style. It has become a craft staple around the world.
Australia Australians love their beer. Yet, it wasn’t that long ago that the relationship between beer and travel meant that if you left your home state, you also found your state’s beer unavailable at your destination. While XXXX was available in Cairns – 1,800 kilometres north of its Brisbane base – you would have been flat out finding it in Grafton – three hours drive south. If you were a ‘New South Welshman’ visiting Melbourne, you had best be willing to drink a Melbourne bitter or a VB as Tooheys was rarer than a rugby league football. So much has changed in the last two decades, following the amalgamation of the regional breweries into the big two brewing companies during the ‘80s and ‘90s, and their push for national markets. The seeds of the current craft beer movement
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were sown even before the 1984 birth of the Sail & Anchor in Fremantle, that spawned the Matilda Bay Brewing Company, now part of CUB. However, it was the launch of Little Creatures in 1999 – by Phil Sexton, who also started Matilda Bay – that really sparked the current beer wave. Today, Australia boasts a broad selection of breweries and beers, and craft beer continues to grow. In fact, the craft beer explosion has changed the scene of brewing in Australia as demand continues for “more complex and flavoursome beers”, Cam Pearce, Sales and Marketing Director of Coopers Brewery says. “Recent growth in the premium and craft beer segments has helped boost Coopers’ popularity. Coopers has a unique range of ales that are distinctively different to mainstream lagers and most premium imported beers”, Cam added. While those already producing craft beer continue to grow their businesses, those brands sitting outside the category have to compete either by changing style more progressively towards that of craft or importing those flavoursome and more original styles that the rest of the world has to offer. This has seen a huge growth in premium international beers and the category is now the second largest in Australia (Aztec July 2014). “International premium and pale ales are definitely continuing their domination of the growth figures. And styles such as IPA, sours, saisons and session ales are in great growth”, says Ben Kooyman, Founder of ENDEAVOUR Vintage Beer Co.
This has also greatly impacted sales of the can format. Not only have craft producers embraced the can format, but so have importers of international brews, making the importation a much easier process, whilst also helping to protect the brew inside. “The beer can has experienced a resurgence thanks to the new can designs embraced by many craft brewers. In fact, many brewers prefer the can as a vessel to the bottle, amongst other things the can blocks all light to the beer, making the beer tasted as close to as the brewer intended. The can
has been on a steady increase for a few years now and I believe will continue to grow as the consumers’ perception of canned beer evolves”, Michael Lonard comments. So what of the regions behind Australia’s booming craft scene? Western Australia continues to power ahead, with Fremantle, Margaret River and Swan Valley all hosting concentrations of breweries. It may invite fierce argument, but while WA is the home of craft beer, Victoria seems to be the centre of gravity for beer endeavours. The garden state is the complete package with great breweries matched to a huge range of venues supporting and promoting craft beer. New South Wales has seen a rapid growth in brewery numbers, though beer-centric venues have been a little slower coming. Conversely, Brisbane has seen a rapid expansion in the number of beer-focused venues, with only a handful of metropolitan breweries following. South Australia and Tasmania both have a scattering of great breweries, with the former blessed with one of the best beer pubs in Australia – The Wheatsheaf in Thebarton. Perhaps the best advice for the wandering beer drinker is wherever you go, take your sense of adventure. As you front up to the bar anywhere on your travels, go on a beer journey as well. Ask, “what’s local”, “what’s new” or “what’s interesting”, and you never know what sort of taste adventure you will have.
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Throughout the month of April, Wines of South Africa (WOSA) and its partners are organising a range of events to celebrate South African wine in all its diversity. Promotional activities include a consumer South African Wine Festival at The Park Lane, a market-wide lucky draw to win a trip to the Cape Winelands, and various programmes in retail and F&B outlets. We welcome you to join us as one of the participants in this campaign.
www.wosa.co.za
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www.facebook.com/WOSAHK
Enquiries: tersinashieh@gmail.com
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° PROFILE °
Colour fades, memories blur, flowers wilt, rust sets in. But, Boschendal is different. With its backdrop of sweeping mountain ranges, deep ravines, imposing peaks and sun-baked rock, Boschendal is renowned throughout the world for its beauty. The estate lies within an area of such natural significance, botanists have named it a kingdom all on its own – the Cape Floral Kingdom. A major feature of this diverse ecosystem is the fascinating multiform low-growing vegetation known as fynbos or ‘fine bush’. The visual and aromatic prevalence of the various shapes and forms of this hardy vegetation inspired the iconic Flora Capensis symbol in Boschendal’s logo.
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stablished in 1685, Boschendal has endured through the ages. It has flourished with the millennia, and it continues to thrive in the 21st century. The older it gets, the better it gets. The terroir maintains its unique character. As the vines mature, their fruit gets sweeter, and the wines continue to gain dimension. Over 330 years after it started making wine, Boschendal is as good now as it ever was. Some might say, maybe even better. A UNIQUE HISTORY OF ITS OWN MAKING Boschendal Estate is situated in the Drakenstein Valley in South Africa, which was originally inhabited by nomadic Khoisan communities for thousands of years prior to colonisation of the Cape. Boschendal was first granted to the French Huguenot Jean le Long in 1685 by Simon van der Stel, the first governor of the South African Cape Colony. It was subsequently bought by Abraham de Villiers in 1715 and remained in that family for 164 years.
The de Villiers family developed Boschendal into a flourishing wine farm and built the manor house and outbuildings. In 1897, custodianship of Boschendal passed into the hands of the mining magnate, Cecil John Rhodes, who saw a lucrative opportunity in fruit farming. Rhodes Fruit Farms was established and began exporting deciduous fruit to Britain on a large scale. In 1976, the beautifully restored Boschendal farmstead and winery was opened to the public for the first time and began to emerge as the icon it is today of the Cape winelands.
SIMPLY CALLING IT A FARM IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT Boschendal lies in the beautiful Drakenstein Valley in South Africa and is flanked by the dramatic Drakenstein and Simonsberg mountains. The farm is located in the centre of the illustrious Franschhoek and Stellenbosch vineyard region. It is some 60 kilometres from the city of Cape Town and the towns of Franschhoek, Stellenbosch and Paarl are all within 20 kilometres of the farm.
THE SECRET OF THE WINE LIES IN THE VINE Boschendal is ideally situated for the cultivation of quality grapes. The size (2250 hectares) and position of the vineyards allows a variety of cultivars to flourish. Of the 200 hectares under vines, a significant portion
is allocated to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, a signature white varietal for Boschendal. Under the leadership of seasoned viticulturist Spekkies van Breda and farm manager André Lambrechts, extensive new plantings of the noble red varieties, namely Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Shiraz, have been undertaken. For 330 years, the Boschendal vineyards have been situated on different soils and at various altitudes, from the valley floor to 350 metres above sea level, allowing for a variety of styles. Particular care is taken to earmark individual blocks for specific styles. The cool growing conditions produce elegant wines, relatively low in sugar, yet bursting with ripe fruit flavours.
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° PROFILE ° PLEASING ON THE PALETTE AND THE ENVIRONMENT Boschendal are and always have been committed to ensuring that a sustainable environmental and agricultural equilibrium is maintained in accordance with international biodiversity practices. Boschendal is home to pristine tracts of indigenous fynbos, part of the South African Cape Floral Kingdom. Through sound agricultural practices in the vineyards and minimalist approach in the cellar, Boschendal has taken active steps to protect its unique natural diversity. The farm’s goal is to ensure that human wellbeing, environmental health and economic viability can co-exist in harmony.
‘Old’ should never be confused with ‘Age’. Some things actually improve with time.
IT JUST TAKES THREE LITTLE THINGS TO MAKE AN ASTONISHING WINE INNOVATION, DEDICATION AND PERSPIRATION! Boschendal’s present winery building still contains sections of the original cellar built in 1795. Although proud of their French Huguenot heritage, Boschendal strive to be at the forefront of cutting edge advancements in winemaking. “There is no growth without innovation, which is born from experimentation,” says red wine winemaker Bertho van der Westhuizen.
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LIQUID GOLD BOSCHENDAL has continuously secured a multitude of awards and accolades at the world’s, as well as South Africa’s, most prestigious wine awards.
SOUTH AFRICAN WINE PRODUCER OF THE YEAR international wine and spirits competition, london, 2004. 1685 SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON GOLD, monde selection, belgium, 2011. GOLD, concours mondial de bruxelles, brussels, 2012. 1685 SHIRAZ GRAND GOLD, monde selection, belgium, 2011. GOLD, old mutual wine trophy award, 2012. 1685 CHARDONNAY GOLD, the michelangelo international wine awards, 2013. GRAND RESERVE GOLD, mundus vini, 2011.
HINDSIGHT PROVIDES THE BEST VISION OF THE FUTURE Boschendal’s winemaking philosophy considers their tremendous natural heritage first and foremost. Their vision is to balance 330 years of tradition and experience with contemporary innovation to produce classic wines with measured modern new world attitude that are uniquely Boschendal.
Following small batch winemaking techniques, which maximize the expression of Boschendal’s excellent terroirs, their experienced winemaking team aims to always make wines which are unique and of individual character. “Our use of wood is judicious, allowing the wines to reflect the true nature of the fruit. Extended maturation periods give our wines the time they need to shake off their tempestuous youth and really come into their own,” says van der Westhuizen. From meticulous sorting methods right through to the gentlest of handling each Boschendal grape is sure to get the royal treatment it deserves from this enthusiastic and talented winemaking team!
RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC international wine & spirit competition 2012.
CECILE JOHN RESERVE SHIRAZ GOLD, syrah du monde, 2012. GOLD, the michelangelo international wine awards, 2013. BRUT ROSÉ GOLD + TOP 10 BEST SPARKLING WINE, effervescent du monde , 2012. GOLD, the michelangelo wine awards, 2012. GOLD, monde selection brussels, 2013. GRANDE CUVÉE BRUT GOLD, veritas awards, 2011. BEST MCC & BEST VINTAGE BRUT, amorim tsogo sun mcc challenge , 2013.
They don’t get old. They get better. And sometimes, they become great.
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THE 1685 RANGE When it all started and still the heart of the Boschendal brand, the 1685 range celebrates the farm’s history and heritage of 330 years of winemaking in the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa. Each century was defined by a visionary owner Jean le Long, Abraham de Villiers and Cecil John Rhodes and the three heraldic devices are symbolic of the respective titles.
THE RESERVE COLLECTION The Reserve Collection is sired from pedigree vineyards and vintages where every detail from vine to wine is fastidiously considered to create richly expressive complex wines of great balance and potential.
THE ELGIN RANGE A portfolio of Limited production super premium Appellation specific wines that express the distinctive cool viticulture climate of Elgin, part of the world famous Cape Winelands in South Africa.
MCC RANGE
vintages where every detail from vine to wine is fastidiously considered to create richly expressive complex wines of great balance and potential.
GRAND CUVEE BRUT & BRUT ROSÉ These beautiful bottle fermented bubblies liberated the vibrancy and energy of Boschendal. Crafted from Classic varieties in the time honoured traditional method with extended lees contact for opulence and texture without compromising inherent vibrant fruit detail and natural freshness.
JEAN LE LONG This bubbly pays tribute to Boschendal’s original French Huguenot owner, Jean le Long and liberates the vibrancy and energy of the estate. This is the crown jewel of the Boschendal Méthode Cap Classique Collection crafted in the time honoured bottle fermentation method with extended lees contact for opulence and texture without compromising the inherent vibrant Cape fruit detail and natural freshness.
FALL IN LOVE WITH MORE THAN JUST THE WINE LUXURY ACCOMMODATION IS A RECENT ADDITION TO THE BOSCHENDAL ESTATE. Options include the historical Herbert Baker designed Rhodes Cottage and the beautifully restored farm labourer cottages. With emphasis on stylish simplicity, the cottages retain their authenticity yet have been given a contemporary makeover.
tours of the vineyards and estate, trout fishing, trail running, mountain biking, swimming, hiking etc. Only 45 minutes from Cape Town city centre and 40 minutes from Cape Town International Airport, Boschendal is truly an ideal place for EVERY GENERATION TO DISCOVER GREATNESS.
The Boschendal Manor House, Rhone Homestead, The Olive Press, the Werf Restaurant and the beautiful gardens are available for a host of celebrations and events in a relaxed and tranquil environment. If you’re in the mood for something a bit more energetic, an interesting range of activities are available - guided walking
The Reserve Collection is sired from pedigree vineyards and
For comprehensive overview of all the attractions and many more images of the estate please visit our website at www.boschendal.com
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Miquel SabriĂ Bernabeu
I
t was while studying culinary at Hofmann that Miquel decided to pursue a career in wines. His first job as a Sommelier was at Moo Restaurant, then at the Roca Brothers next. Later on, he opened a wine bar with the President of the Catalan Association of Sommeliers in Catalunya. Once he felt prepared, he decided to come to Asia as the Head Sommelier of Catalunya Hong Kong and later on, was appointed Group Head Sommelier of the company. Relocating to Indonesia, he is now the Group Executive Sommelier of Ismaya.
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° MEET °
DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Tell us briefly about yourself. At what point did you know that you were going to be involved in the F&B industry? Miquel Sabrià Bernabeu: Growing up, my family always took me out to different restaurants. And at home, I had great occasions to experiment around with food, making cookies filled with Nutella and raisins. But it wasn’t until the age of 20 that I studied Hospitality. Before that, I was involved in tennis. Several years later, I decided to shift course into gastronomy. I studied culinary art at Hofmann, one of the most reputed culinary schools in Barcelona and a well known Michelinstarred restaurant as well. It was here that I also took a course in Introduction to the World of Wine, which became the starting point of my career as a Sommelier. I studied under Lluís Manel Barba, who later on would become one of my teachers at Escola Superior d’Hostaleria de Barcelona (ESHOB), where I was taking my Sommelier certification. DWA: You worked as a Head Sommelier for Catalunya in Singapore and Hong Kong prior to relocating to Jakarta. What ideas have you learned while working in these cities that you think you can apply in Indonesia? MSB: There’s no doubt about what travelling brings along in all aspects. The experience, skills and know-how you have acquired are sure to give you an advantage when you move to another place or country. Having worked in Singapore and Hong Kong for several years has given me an overview of the wine industry in Asia. This understanding of the Asian wine culture can prove useful here in Indonesia in terms of searching suppliers, trends, legality issues and consumer preferences. With this knowledge, I can easily adjust and tailor things to suit the Indonesian market. DWA: Since arriving in the region, what views do you have on the Indonesia F&B scene? How is it different from Singapore and Hong Kong? MSB: Singapore and Hong Kong are already very different from each other when we talk
about wine, consumer preferences and laws. In Hong Kong, for example, there are no taxes applied when importing wines, but in Singapore, it’s completely the opposite. There’s a legislation against alcohol that makes taxes very high. Meanwhile, Indonesia – specifically Jakarta – is indisputably an upcoming and emerging market, which makes the city very attractive and interesting to introduce wine culture from all parts of the world. However, the biggest challenge comes from the fact that Indonesia is predominantly Islam, and as such, has a direct effect on the consumption of alcohol. DWA: Can you tell us a bit about Ismaya Group. What do you hope to achieve in your new role with the company? MSB: Ismaya Group is a market leader in conceptualising, developing and operating diverse group of restaurants and bars in Indonesia. Established more than a decade ago, it is the most important and largest F&B group in the region. To date, the group has 15 brands and more than 50 outlets in its lineup. Also recently, it has inaugurated another jewel “GIA”, an Italian restaurant and bar that’s sure to be a hot spot in the city. As the new Group Executive Sommelier of Ismaya, I expect a lot from myself. While I see my role as a great opportunity to enhance my knowledge, I am aware of the huge responsibility that comes with the job. Ismaya has put their trust in me, hence, failing is not an option. I have to do my best to exceed their expectations. DWA: If you could share something to aspiring Sommeliers out there, what would it be? MSB: My father always said to me “The more you talk, the less you listen, so talk less and listen more”. For me, listening is one of the most important keys to learning in life. But if there’s one thing that my experience as a Sommelier taught me, it’s this: Work hard, love what you do and be humble but bold. Most important of all, never give up on your dreams. I believe that dreams do come true if you persevere and strive to attain them.
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HOFEX
2015
° FEATURE °
A
sia’s premier food and hospitality tradeshow – HOFEX – will return on May 6-9 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. In its 16th edition, HOFEX continues to blend the best of food and beverages, equipment, supplies, services and hospitality technologies. This year’s event will showcase more than 2,400 international exhibitors as well as wine & spirits.
The best platform to expand your business Consumers in Asia are increasingly becoming wine savvy and their demand for wine remains strong. According to the International Wine & Spirits Research (IWSR) Forecast Report 2014-2019, Asia is expected to see the largest volume increase across the beer, wine, spirits and mixed drinks categories. China and India, the two largest-growing spirits markets between 2013 and 2019, together account for a surge of 120.5 million cases in yearly spirits consumption. Hong Kong is the only place in the world that has entered into an agreement with mainland China, allowing wine imports to go into the region under the Mainland and Hong Kong
Closer Economic Partnership Arrangement (CEPA) and enhanced customs facilitation measures. A new agreement has also come into force on September 18, 2014, removing the need for importers to register with the Mainland Customs, which can shorten the time to send wine to mainland China through Hong Kong. New World wine is also gaining popularity in recent years. At the end of September 2014, wine imported from Australia to Hong Kong increased 9 per cent to 7.5 million litres, which was worth US$80.77 million. And Hong Kong has recently launched a Wine Registration Programme to combat counterfeiting and give consumers more confidence in the wines they are purchasing. Strategically hosted at this sophisticated global wine hub, HOFEX
2015 – the 16th edition of the leading food and hospitality tradeshow in Asia – is the best channel to establish business relationships and enter into the lucrative wine market in the regions.
Wine & Spirits at HOFEX HOFEX 2015 will once again put up an alluring and captivating sector – Wine & Spirits @ HOFEX at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre on May 6-9. It is an ideal platform for wine & spirits suppliers and distributors to promote their remarkable selection from around the globe to the hotels and the ever-growing restaurants and bars in Hong Kong as well as its nearby regions, which are thirsty for new wines to pair with their food
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° FEATURE ° offerings and tantalise the taste buds of their customers. A new area called Whisky @ HOFEX is also introduced in this episode to capitalise on the growth in whisky imports to Hong Kong, which were up nearly 40 per cent during the first nine months of 2014 to a total of US$56 million. Over 30 whisky brands from Scotland, Japan, Canada and other countries will be showcased in the area. There will also be a series of tutorials and tasting sessions delivered by prominent wine experts during the three-day fair. Companies which have already secured their spaces include Sens Wine Cellar Ltd, Cornerstone Distribution (HK) Ltd, Fico International Ltd, Wine High Club, Palinda Wines (HK) Ltd, Red Wine City and many more.
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Hong Kong International Wine Challenge 2015 The Hong Kong International Wine Challenge 2015 (HKIWC) aims to recognise winemaking achievements throughout the world of fine wine, respect the culture and sensibility of their originality and immerge their distinctiveness in the Asian market. HKIWC is now open to wine suppliers and distributors to pit their legendary bottles against the rest of the world. Wines registered in the challenge will be judged by a team of wine experts in the region to identify medals for each of the categories. Apart from grape variety, there’s also an open contest for wines that can pair well with various Chinese cuisine. A credible benchmark in wine excellence, our awards not only provide wine enthusiasts and consumers with a guide to
select the superbly crafted wines across a broad range of labels and prices, but also create a prestigious opportunity for unknown wines to make their mark in Hong Kong. Outstanding wine of style and character selected from each category will be given a trophy and a Certificate of Award. Winning wines will be displayed in a showcase throughout the HOFEX show days. The “Best of Show” and “Gold Medal” of each category will have chances to be presented during the Gala Dinner on May 6, 2015. Also, a professional sommelier will introduce the award winning wines to the invited guests from the hotel and restaurant chains at the Wine Appreciation Seminar, which will be held on May 7, 2015 in the afternoon on the exhibition floor.
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Enter the Wine Challenge and Book Your Booth Now! Apart from wine & spirits, HOFEX also covers every facet of the food and hospitality industry, including food and drinks, meat, coffee, food service equipment and hospitality technology. Over 40,000 regional trade buyers, including importers, distributors, hotel managers, supermarket purchasing managers, restaurant owners, executive chefs and sommeliers from Hong Kong, mainland China, Macau, Taiwan, the Philippines, Australia and other areas, are expected to come to source, network and gain market updates. Should you have any enquiries regarding the HKIWC or booth booking, please contact Hong Kong Exhibition Services Limited at +852 2804 1500 / exhibit@hkesallworld.com today! For further information, please visit www. HOFEX.com.
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째 FEATURE 째
Macau Bartender H
of the Year 2014
eld at the luxurious Sky21 Restaurant & Bar, the 3rd Macau Bartender of the Year Competition drew a record number of participants for the chance of taking home the coveted title and the Cocktail Art Award.
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For this edition of the competition, all contestants were given 15 minutes to prepare garnishes for their cocktails and the best was presented with the “Cocktail Art Award”. Bartenders were then required to mix three full portions of their recipe within 5 minutes. Implemented this year, this new concept aspired bartenders to enhance their garnish preparation and confidence skills. FOLLOWING WERE THE WINNERS: 1st Place & Cocktail Art Award Winner SOLA WONG China Rouge Private Member Club, Galaxy Macau COCKTAIL: Eastern Fashion 2nd Place LOUIS ORDINARIO R-Bar, Hard Rock Hotel – City of Dreams COCKTAIL: Symphony of Joy 3rd Place KENNETH D’ABARICIA Whisky Bar, Starworld Hotel COCKTAIL: Macanese Pride An annual event, the Macau Bartender of the Year Competition is organised by the Union of Bartenders & Cocktails Macau (UBCM).
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APEROL SPRITZ, THE NEW WAY TO CELEBRATE UNITED.
ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
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DWA HK Ed8 2015 pp123 IBC-APEROL AD.indd 123
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