Drinks World Asia | Singapore #6

THE MAGAZINE FOR MANAGERS, SOMMELIERS AND BARTENDERS SINGAPORE NO. 6

Garnishing your SIMPLE GUIDELINES WHEN

Cocktail BOURBON

ITS COMEBACK AND RISE

JASON WILLIAMS SYDNEY TO SINGAPORE

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Welcome It’s our second birthday and we’re celebrating. It feels like only yesterday that the team at DRINKS WORLD ASIA joined the thriving Singapore bar scene and got amongst it. Now it seems like we have always been there – reporting on the best restaurants and bars, bartenders and sommeliers, new products to play with and tips on how to incorporate them into your everyday repertoire.

During the last two years we’ve seen the industry grow and some awesome talent emerge with many of the best competing in the range of bartending competitions now gracing Singapore’s shores and enjoying events such as the amazing Singapore Cocktail Week.

Team Singapore jetted off to Bangkok recently to compete in the South East Asia World Class regional finals – looking to book passage to South Africa. Congratulations to Steve Leong on getting there and here’s to you bringing home the big prize later this year.

Keen to get involved yourself, well then log into our new-look website – www.drinks.world – and join THE EXCHANGE. Just sign up and submit your news, your views, enter competitions and have your chance to get published. After all, who knows more about our industry than the people at the coalface?

A great event to get involved with will be the Beam Suntory Aged Barrel Workshop, kicking off in August and a Bourbon Cocktail Competition launching for Bourbon Heritage month this September.

Details on www.drinks.world This edition we bring you a special feature on garnishing your cocktail; three simple steps to perfect your craft. You can also read all about The Maestro himself, Salvatore Calabrese of London anf Vegas fame, and our own region’s Maestro – Jason Williams – the new creative director at Proof & Co, and occasional guest at 28HK Street.

It’s time for the T25 Bartenders and T25 Sommeliers to be awarded. Each year we celebrate the best in our industry nominating a selection of the best bartending and sommelier talent in Singapore; keep up to speed with who’s hot this year at www.drinks.world. On this site you’ll see a number of changes as Drinks World brings you news and features from across the region.

Want to be a part of it? Well you can, don’t be shy. if you have something to share, a new bar opening, new product you are excited about or just want to brag about how amazing you are - send us an email at sasha@drinks.world

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Credits CREDITS Publisher Marc Rodrigues EDITORIAL Publishing Editor Ashley Pini Editor Miracielo Broñola Digital Editor Chelsea Onik DESIGN Senior Designer Ryan Andrew Salcedo ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Sasha Falloon sasha@hipmedia.com.au SALES Sales Director Marc Rodrigues marc@hipmedia.com.au National Sales Manager Chris Wheeler chris@hipmedia.com.au PHOTOGRAPHY Photographer Inga Beckmann CONTRIBUTORS Writers: Ashley Pini, Chris Chambers, Gaz Regan, John O’Toole, Mark Thomas, Pauline Wee, Zachary Connor de Git Publication MCI (P) 131/05/2015

FEATURE: Purpose, Aesthetics, Variety: Three simple guidelines when garnishing your cocktail. Story on page 14

Produced and published by

Editorial Enquiries: If you, your bar, or your brand and company have news or events you would like to share with Drinks World please contact: ashley@hipmedia.com.au and/or sasha@hipmedia.com.au Although Hip Media Asia endeavours to ensure the accuracy and correctness of the information and drinks trade and drinkstrade.com.au, we do not accept any liability or responsibility for any inaccuracies or missions. The views expressed by authors of publications or event presentations, published drinks trade, do not necessarily represent the views of Hip Media Asia. Decisions or actions based on the information and publications provided by Hip Media Asia are at your own risk.

drinks world asia @drinksworldasia drinksworld

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Contents

26 Profile

9 45

9

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Knob Creek - Bourbon, Its Comeback and Rise The World of Gonzalez Byass

Feature

14 20 24 26 32 37

Three Simple Guidelines on Cocktail Garnishing How to Drink Whisky Alcohol Myths

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Singapore Cocktail Week Agave Goodness Gaz Regan’s Mindful Bartending Part 2

Visit

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45 How Travelling Can Enrich Your Craft

Meet

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Salvatore Calabrese Jason Williams

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BOURBON ° PROFILE °

Its Comeback and Rise M

ake way for America’s native spirit – Bourbon. What was once an old man’s tipple and most conservative of drinks is now cool again. Thanks to the booming cocktail culture, bourbon is experiencing a resurgence.

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Booker Noe, 6th generation of the Beam family To be labeled bourbon, it must be made with a minimum of 51 per cent corn, aged in charred, new oak barrels, stored at no more than 125 proof and made in the US. Kentucky manufactures 95 per cent of the world’s supply for a reason – it has the perfect triune of climate, conditions and pure limestone water necessary for producing the world’s best bourbon.

Bourbon has evolved into one of the most known and respected distilled spirits traded worldwide. It has become a major player on the liquor scene in recent years, and part of its appeal is its distinctive flavour profiles. In fact, it’s fast becoming the first choice for cocktails as its range of flavours make it more suited to mixing. Not to mention its authenticity – no other spirit captures the heritage, tradition and culture of people like bourbon does.

Classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned and Manhattan are providing added impetus to the comeback of bourbon. As more and more bartenders are making these classic libations, bourbon became cool for the younger generations to drink it. In essence, people are beginning to see the nuanced tastes it offers. Women, who enjoy its tremendous

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complexity of flavours, have been a big force in the resurrection of the brown spirit.

Today, bourbon is the fastest growing category in the US and markets the world over. The growing popularity of the spirit is driven by the sales of finely crafted bourbons – the likes of Knob Creek, Basil Hayden’s, Bookers and Baker’s from the global leader in premium spirits, Beam Suntory.

Rooted in more than two centuries of family tradition, Beam Suntory is crafting the spirits that stir the world. In 1795, Jacob Beam produced the first barrel of whiskey that would become Jim Beam, the company’s flagship brand. Meanwhile, Suntory’s history began in 1899 when founder Shinjiro Torii started producing sweet wines and eventually, crafted the first Japanese whisky.

Beam Suntory was created in 2014 by merging the world leader in bourbon and the pioneer in Japanese whisky to form a new company with a deep heritage, passion for quality, innovative spirit and entrepreneurial culture.

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° PROFILE °

THE SMALL BATCH BOURBON COLLECTION The story of ‘’Small Batch Bourbon’’ is as old as the history of bourbon itself. All bourbons were essentially small batch and usually sold in barrels rather than the bottles we know today. As industrial techniques developed, more emphasis was placed on faster, easier manufacturing for purely economic reasons and efficient mass production.

Throughout the years, the art of small batch distilling was lost until Booker Noe – Jim Beam’s grandson, a sixth generation distiller – produced limited quantities of his signature uncut and unfiltered bourbon on request. Those who tasted this brown spirit, modeled after pre-prohibition era whiskey, knew it was different and special. They ultimately prevailed upon Booker to make it available commercially, creating the Small Batch Bourbon category. The first ever Small Batch Bourbon was called Booker’s True Barrel Bourbon.

Eventually, Booker added three bourbons to the “Small Batch Bourbon Collection” – Baker’s, Knob Creek and Basil Hayden’s. These highly prized whiskies are handcrafted in small quantities so that the distiller can lavish them with personal attention. It is attention to detail such as choosing only the best barrel and extra ageing that make the difference.

Today, the “Small Batch Bourbon Collection” whiskies are crafted to represent turn of the century whiskey – each distinctively different from one another to reflect the complexity that pre-prohibition bourbons offered.

BOOKER’S Inspired by a 200-year-old tradition, Booker’s is extra aged, uncut and bottled straight from the barrel at its natural proof between 121 and 127.

It is unlike anything one has ever tasted and is simply the best bourbon in the world – a truly dynamic distilled spirit and a connoisseur’s sipping bourbon.

Tasting Notes Colour: deep, rich, smoky amber Aroma: big oak, vanilla, smoky charcoal

Taste: intense, fruity, tannin, tobacco and maple sugar Finish: clean, long, intense Best served: straight up, on the rocks and/or with water

BAKER’S Named for Jim Beam’s grandnephew – Baker Beam – Baker’s bourbon is hand-bottled at 107 proof. It utilises a special strain of jug yeast that has been in the Beam’s family for over 60 years. This time-tested yeast provides Baker’s with a silky smooth texture and consistent taste from batch to batch. The mix of sweet corn grain, yeast and seven years of ageing in new charred oak barrels combine to give this bourbon a deeply mellow, richly flavoured, full bodied taste.

Tasting Notes Colour: warm amber, tawny, nut brown Aroma: fruit, vanilla, caramel Taste: toasted nuts, vanilla, fruit, silky texture Finish: sweet, smooth, medium-long finish Best served: straight up or mixed

BASIL HAYDEN’S Based on a special recipe that dates back to 1796, Basil Hayden’s is made with extra rye to give it a truly unique character. It is aged for eight years during which the spicy flavour of the rye marries with the sweet smoothness of the corn – for a character unlike any other bourbon. Bottled at a gentle 80 proof, it is the lightest bodied of the Small Batch Bourbons.

Tasting Notes Colour: deep amber Aroma: a deep nose with a mix of caramel, oak, cinnamon and vanilla Taste: full bodied, heavier caramel, well balanced, rich and flavourful Finish: long, smooth and soothing

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° PROFILE °

KNOB CREEK The World’s Most Awarded Bourbon Named for the childhood home of Abraham Lincoln, Knob Creek embodies the bold flavour that has made Kentucky famous for bourbon. Bottled at an honest 100 proof (the way whiskies were at the turn of the century), Knob Creek is aged for nine years in charred American white oak which lends this bourbon its maple sugar aroma, distinctive sweetness and rich, full bodied flavour.

The world’s favourite Small Batch Bourbon, Knob Creek is modeled after pre-prohibition era whiskey and is perfect straight or cooled slightly with one or two ice cubes.

KNOB CREEK SMOKED MAPLE This new expression is made using the big, full flavour of Knob Creek Bourbon along with hints of maple and a touch of smoke. Bottled at 90 proof, Knob Creek Smoked Maple is best enjoyed neat or with an ice cube or two. It also makes an excellent after dinner drink for those who prefer to sip and savour a nice whiskey with dessert.

Tasting Notes Colour: copper to medium amber Aroma: smoked hickory and maple wood, with hints of earthy grain Taste: full bodied, inviting maple notes that lift to smoke and are complemented with rich vanilla and caramel Finish: smoky, smooth and slightly sweet KNOB CREEK STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY Bottled at 100 proof, this expression is crafted in limited quantities and perfectly aged to give the full flavour of bourbon that existed before prohibition.

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Tasting Notes Colour: a deep, dark and distinct amber Aroma: expansive notes of maple sugar, toasted nuts and oak Taste: takes over one’s palate with big notes of oak, caramel and fruit Finish: long and smooth but with more kick than most KNOB CREEK STRAIGHT RYE WHISKEY Made with a blend of the finest quality rye to create an extraordinarily smooth yet spicy finish. Bottled at 100 proof, it can be enjoyed neat or as the base for contemporary or classic cocktails.

Tasting Notes Colour: shades of gold to light amber Aroma: expansive notes of herbs and rye with nuances of oak Taste: bold rye spiciness with undertones of vanilla and oak Finish: warm and smooth with spice throughout KNOB CREEK SINGLE BARREL Carefully hand selected, barrel-by-barrel for a robust, mature flavour.

Bottled at 120 proof, Knob Creek Single Barrel boasts more pronounced flavours and a smokier aroma. Although it packs a high proof, the finish is still smooth and complex. It’s perfect straight or cooled slightly with one or two ice cubes.

Tasting Notes Colour: darkest and deepest amber and henna hue Aroma: slightly smoky with robust vanilla and caramel notes Taste: deep and complex flavours of vanilla, nuts and oak Finish: long, full and perfect for easygoing sipping

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AWARDS AND ACCOLADES 2015 For several consecutive years, Knob Creek – Beam Suntory’s flagship super premium bourbon brand – has garnered countless international awards and recognitions. Of course, 2015 is no exception for Knob Creek as it sweeped several prestigious accolades in three globally renowned spirits competitions. In fact, at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, Knob Creek Bourbon earned a double gold medal and outrated 95 other bourbons to be named “Best Bourbon”.

Following are just a few of the accolades that Knob Creek has earned for 2015: ULTIMATE SPIRITS CHALLENGE AND INTERNATIONAL REVIEW OF SPIRITS • Knob Creek Bourbon – Trophy, Ultimate Recommendation SAN FRANCISCO WINE & SPIRITS COMPETITION • Knob Creek Bourbon – Double Gold Winner • Knob Creek Single Barrel Bourbon – Gold Winner ULTIMATE SPIRITS CHALLENGE • Knob Creek Bourbon – Finalist, Score: 95, Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation • Knob Creek Single Barrel Bourbon – Score: 93, Excellent, Highly Recommended • Knob Creek Rye Whiskey – Score: 92, Excellent, Highly Recommended

WATCH OUT FOR: • Barrel Aged Cocktails Workshop – kicking off in August • Bourbon Cocktail Competition – taking place in September, during Bourbon Heritage Month

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° FEATURE °

Purpose

Aesthetics VARIETY

THREE SIMPLE GUIDELINES WHEN GARNISHING YOUR COCKTAIL WORDS ° Zachary Connor de Git PHOTOS ° William Grant & Sons

M

ost people who know me will say that I am a pretty-easy going person - I’m not one to be pedantic with little things such as garnishes or glassware. However, a recent trip to Taiwan made me think about how a garnish can alter the overall presentation, taste and aroma of a cocktail. I am willing to admit that garnishing has always been something of an afterthought for me most times a simple orange or lemon twist on top will suffice.

Working with Nathan Beasley from The Black Pearl rubs off on you after a while as he is famous for not garnishing his drinks. The term “Beasley Garnish” gets thrown around a lot at the Black Pearl.

Anyway, back to the story.

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I found myself hanging out at R&D Cocktail Lab in Taipei City having a little chinwag with Spencer (one of the owners and an all-round top bloke). He kindly allowed me behind the bar and I started experimenting with some of the crazy local fruits they have stocked, the abundance of homemade tinctures, and of course a little Monkey Shoulder.

After responsibly serving myself a few Old Fashioned cocktails and maybe one too many Morning Glory Fizzes, I noticed something was amiss. A little bit of forgetfulness had come over me and somehow, I managed to completely miss out any form of garnish on my Old Fashioned. The drink itself tasted fine but the aromas of a vibrant orange peel that I was accustomed to were missing. It was at this moment that I really started questioning my past methods: Have I really been overlooking one of the most important elements for a great cocktail?

As a basic rule, we eat with our eyes first, followed by our touch then through scent, where our olfactory senses will decipher how something will taste. In fact, our taste buds only make up around 25 – 30 per cent of what we taste as our little schnoz picks up and interprets the rest. As

anyone with a cold or flu can attest, our food and drinks taste somewhat different when our sense of smell is impaired. For those who are interested in a little home experiment, take some cinnamon sugar, clip your nose with a clothes peg, and taste some of the sugar. After a few seconds, release the peg and you should find a flavour explosion of the delicious cinnamon sugar tantalizing your receptor organs.

Garnish, however, is not just limited to aroma as there are other styles of garnishing. We can almost break it down into three main categories: Edible, Aromatic and Aesthetic.

Each garnish is not strictly assigned to one category though; they can be intimately entwined and may venture into each other’s territories. But how do we know which garnish is applicable for a certain style of drink?

It is becoming more apparent these days that garnishes are used a great deal in cocktails, largely more for style than substance. Adding a candied ginger slice and mint sprig sprinkled with icing sugar may look amazing on a Whisky Sour but might not have the same benefits of a simple yet elegant lemon twist.

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° FEATURE ° In general, I follow these simple guidelines when thinking about how best to garnish a cocktail: PURPOSE What is the function of this garnish to the drink? Is the garnish there to mask the aroma of the slowly warming egg white? Or is it there to enhance the subtle flavours found in the base spirit of your Manhattan, Rob Roy or Martini? Whatever it is, the garnish must serve a purpose to a drink.

AESTHETICS Does the garnish look appealing? While this may not be as important as purpose, always keep in mind that we eat and drink with our eyes before anything else. If the drink looks like you put the garnish on with a shotgun, you are probably off to a bad start. Keep your mint sprigs fresh (there’s no such thing as black spotted mint, don’t try to fool anyone), and your peels somewhat symmetrical.

VARIETY Do not adorn every drink on the menu in exactly the same way. If every cocktail on your menu has a beautifully-cut orange peel as an embellishment, not only will your guests be unexcited, you will also be left with dozens of ‘naked’ oranges at the end of the night, and let’s face it you don’t make enough Blood & Sands or Ward Eights to justify that much orange juice.

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A drink is fundamentally a glass, liquid, ice and garnish. So all four of those elements are important.

JIM MEEHAN, PDT.

I have predominately talked about garnish and its function throughout my long ramble. However, I must also stress the importance of the other three elements mentioned by Jim Meehan, Mixologist at PDT in New York: As a whole a drink is like an orchestra; the glass is the percussion continuously beating in the background. The liquid is the brass bringing life to the concoction. Ice ties all the elements together and the garnish is the strings that grace the finished product so elegantly.

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HOW TO DRINK

WHISKY WORDS 째 Chris Chambers

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W

hisky is a fascinating but sometimes confusing subject, with so many things to learn about the different styles, regions, casks and more. I have fielded many questions over my years of working with the liquid, but the most common one is always “How do I drink it?”

The glib answer would be that you should put it in your mouth and swallow, but it’s a little bit more complicated than that. What I’m really being asked with that question is what sort of glass to use, what can be added to it, and what should be looked for when tackling this grand spirit. I offer you my answer to this popular question.

Newcomers to whisky have usually heard the stern admonition that the only way to drink the spirit is neat, with maybe – MAYBE – a splash of water if you had a knife to your throat. Ice is sacrilege, and as for cocktails, you would get a better reception if you had offered to steal their shoes. Thankfully the truth is that if you did let coke touch your single malt then no long-dead Scots will rise out the grave to haunt you, and if someone does complain to you at the bar that you’re not doing it the ‘right’ way, you are allowed to (im)politely ignore them.

If you’re paying for it, then you can do what you like to it. With this in mind, if it’s the first time you’re trying a particular whisky, I feel it’s best to give it a go without a mixer. That way, you can get to know the flavours of a particular bottling before deciding how best to proceed with subsequent encounters. A good glass tumbler is still the most common drinking vessel, however, special tasting glasses from Glencairn and Riedel, though expensive, do help get the most out of your whisky especially on the first couple of tries.

Now you have your glass and you have poured in some whisky, you must combine the two.

When deciding how much to pour, I go by the late author Ian Banks’ suggestion in his ode to whisky – Raw Spirit – of “A measure pleasing to both guest and host”. If you are your own host, you can please yourself. But I find more than a quarter of the glass is unnecessary and runs the risk of spillage. There is a saying that you shouldn’t cry over spilt milk, but lost whisky can see a few drops shed.

Where you then go is with your eyes. Take a look at the colour which gives you an idea of what sort of cask the whisky was matured in.

Lighter shades tend to be ex-bourbon casks while darker colours tend to have been primarily matured in ex-sherry casks. If you swirl the spirit around in the glass, you can also tell by the number of streaks on the sides roughly the level of alcohol in the whisky – the more streaks the higher the content. Of course, a faster way of doing this is to read the label on the bottle.

However, if you start to go to blind tastings, this is a great way to practice your skills.

Next, you must nose the whisky. This is a very important stage, as your sense of smell is very vital to your ability to enjoy delicious flavours on the palate. If you try holding your nose the next time you eat or drink something, you will discover what I mean. You want to sniff carefully, but not too briefly to appreciate all the aromas.

I say carefully, because if you sniff too sharply, you can ‘burn’ the lining of your nose on the alcohol fumes, which will affect anything else you are sampling that day. Some tasters choose to pour a little on their hands and rub them together, then smell the aroma from there.

Personally, I feel that’s a waste of whisky, but each to their own.

From there, just describe what you can smell!

This is a big issue for many novice tasters as

they feel they somehow aren’t ‘qualified’ to chip in. If you can’t quite work out how to describe specific flavours, just work out what it reminds you of and work back from there. A great example was one I heard of a whisky smelling like the inside of their grandmother’s handbag, which we established meant they were smelling tobacco, toffee and soft leather. As well as the flavours, you want to see if you detect any harsh or ‘off’ notes. Whisky quality is not as volatile as wine so you very rarely get a bad one even after being stored for a long time, but it does happen.

Lastly, you have to drink it. Not a great hardship, I’m sure you’ll agree. Resist the urge to drain your glass in one go, and instead, take a sip then swirl it around the surface of your mouth and tongue. Try to think about the different sensations you get, such as is it spicy or sweet, strong or soft? Some say that you should hold it in your mouth for as many seconds as there are years of age on the bottle, but as some whiskies don’t print their age on the bottle, this can turn into an impractical guessing game.

Once done, swallow your spirit then think about how it feels as it disappears down your throat. That sensation is called the Finish, and tends to be described in terms of texture or length, the latter term being used to describe how long you can still taste the whisky after it

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° FEATURE °

has left your mouth. After you’ve had a think, you get to do it all again! This time, however, you want to think about the different flavours you get much like with the aromas on the nose.

At this stage, it seems a good moment to talk about water in whisky. While putting too much water in your whisky can ‘drown’ it, muting the flavours to the point of being unrecognisable, a couple of drops will drop the alcohol level down a little, which can allow you to pick up some of the more delicate flavours. This is especially true if the whisky has a high alcohol content and/or if you are still developing your palate. Another reason for doing so is that it will ‘open up’ your whisky as the water and whisky combine to allow more volatile aromas to escape the glass.

If your chosen spirit is too strong for you, feel free to add some water before the second taste, otherwise give it a go afterwards.

I find some whiskies work better with and some work better without water, ultimately this will be down to personal preference, but it makes sense to try it both ways just to be sure. However, ice is a different matter. If you’re drinking it as a long drink then yes, chill it down.

A rocks serve can also be very refreshing and does work with some kinds of whisky. In general though, I am not a fan of ice as cold temperatures do not only lock out some of those more subtle flavours, but it can also overdilute your whisky if the ice melts too quickly.

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If you must use ice, I can recommend either purchasing an ice-ball mould or frequenting a bar that uses them as the broad surface area reduces dilution to a minimum compared to the standard cube.

Now that you have gotten to know your whisky, feel free to experiment. Seemingly going out of his way to pick a fight with the traditionalists, top spirits writer Dave Broom recently released the excellent book – Whisky: The Manual – which saw him mix dozens of fine (and expensive!) liquids with a variety of mixers.

Finding out how, say, a Talisker 18 mixes with coke provides a certain iconoclastic thrill that is hard to resist reading about even if you may not try it yourself.

Once you understand the characteristics of a particular whisky straight up, you can then put

it to use in cocktails as a way to add some rich distinctive flavours to a recipe. The Facebook group Whisky Blasphemy provides some excellent if unusual combinations for you to play around with.

I hope that has answered some of your questions about how to drink your whisky. I just have one more piece of advice on this subject, and that’s to ask yourself one question while drinking: “Am I enjoying this?” If you are, great!

If not, then don’t be afraid to play around a little – add a little water or ginger ale, or if you already drank it like that, leave it out! You’re not sitting an exam afterwards; you’re just enjoying a grand drink, and you can be confident in ignoring anyone who orders you otherwise.

If you’re wondering which whiskies to begin with, the Classic Malts range from Diageo is a

great place to start to get to grips with a wide variety of different whisky styles. Of course, no whisky is made the same, which is another of the fascinating things about it – from the sweeter Speysides to the smoky Islays, from lively bourbons to the meditative Japanese malts, there are a whole range of flavours to enjoy. Take a deep breath, grab a few glasses, dive in and enjoy!

Chris Chambers has a decade of experience in the alcohol industry, including five years with the world-renowned Royal Mile Whiskies in Edinburgh. In that time, he has gained an extensive knowledge of whisky from all corners of the globe and a passion for the stories behind all forms of alcohol.

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Alcohol Myths D

oes gin really make you more depressed than other types of alcohol? Can absinth make you hallucinate? Will placing a spoon in the top of a Champagne bottle stop it from going flat?

And why is there a worm in tequila?

One of the best things about alcohol is the stories, people and personalities behind the brands and products. But, over the years, re-told and passed down, these stories have changed form and multiplied to many. So many and so abstract are some that it has become hard to decipher between the truths or the wives’ tales of our industry.

Drinks World therefore, thought it was about time that drinks trade went out to the leading brands and health professionals on each of these ‘truths’, to debunk the age-old myths of the alcohol industry.

THE TEQUILA WORM There are many myths surrounding the worm often found in a bottle tequila, too many to mention here, but the biggest has in fact, already been said.

What is often known as the ‘worm’, is in fact a gusano – a type of larva that lives in the leaves of the agave plant and a delicacy in Oaxaca, Mexico. Additionally, a gusano is never found in tequila, but in mezcal – made from a type of agave plant found specifically in the state of Oaxaca, unlike tequila, which is made from the blue agave plant grown in regions around Mexico.

Tequila expert and Managing Director at Agave Love, Phil Bayly says gusanos were initially added to mezcal to add flavour, and possibly a bit of colour to the spirit.

Additionally, the gusano is often thought to have hallucinogenic powers – “eat the worm and

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see the goddess of mezcal” – a marketing tool for export Phil suggests.

“Truth is, you have to drink the whole bottle to get to the worm and by the time you have done that you are ready to see anything”, Phil said.

ABSINTH/E MAKES YOU HALLUCINATE Like the gusano larva, there has been a long held belief by many that absinth is a hallucinogenic. While today this is not the case, before the 1900s this was actually true.

The word absinth originates from the Latin name for the bitter herb wormwood – Artemisia absinthium (the main ingredient in absinth).

Wormwood has long been known (since at least the 1500s) to have more additional ‘benefits’ than your average herb. Among a number of these is that wormwood (specifically the thujone ingredient found in wormwood) is a hallucinogenic.

Before the 1900s, there was no limit on the amount of wormwood that could be included in absinth, which led to a number of societal problems (as can be imagined), and by the 1900s absinth had been banned in most countries. Many pieces of artwork from the period can still be found today, depicting drinkers ‘seeing’ a green woman, representing the hallucination caused by absinth and explaining where the popular absinth brand, Green Fairy took its name from. Eventually bans were lifted, but with laws in lace to ensure that only a very small amount of thujone is used in absinth.

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Today therefore, absinth is not a hallucinogenic, although a number of brands continue to tell the myth to keep some of this spirit’s mystery and romance alive.

THE ANGOSTURA LABEL The Angostura aromatic bitters label has to be the most questionable label in existence. Many often take a double glance, quickly realising that the label is far too big for its bottle. Why? Well there are two stories that claim to answer why, but in Allan Shearer’s own words (distributor of Angostura island2island Beverage Company’s CEO): “no one really knows the truth, but what everyone agrees on is that it happened entirely by accident”.

The first story says that the oversized label is a result of the production being rush to make it into a competition. One of the Seigert brothers – the sons of Dr. J.G.B Seigert – the inventor of Angostura bitters – ordered the bottles and the other ordered the label, but what they’d forgotten to do was to discuss the sizing. By the time they realised the two didn’t match, it was too late. “They didn’t win the competition”, Allan explains, “but the judges told them to leave it as it would be what they call ‘signature labeling’ – no one else would have an oversized label. And they were right, the error led to an unmistakable product and a marketing tool that has stood the test of time.”

The other story is that it was simply the result of the laidback Caribbean attitude. “When someone ordered the wrong size of label and the mistake was spotted, everyone thought someone else would correct it. But no one did.

So when the current supply of labels ran out, they simply attached the oversized labels”, Allan says.

Nevertheless which story is told, Angostura’s label has become the trademark of the brand recognised all over the world today – a lucky mistake one could say.

DOES GIN MAKE YOU MORE DEPRESSED? In short, no – gin does not make you more depressed than other types of alcohol.

Like all alcohol, it affects the chemistry of the brain by suppressing serotonin and norepinephrine levels, which can cause some people to feel depressed, but there is no concrete research to suggest that gin acts as more of a depressant than other types of alcohol.

Instead, it is thought that this myth comes from a time in history when in England gin was being drank by all – men, women and even children, and far too much of it. This time, known as the Gin Craze, was a result of a number of societal problems in the country during the 18th century and as a result gin became blamed for misery, rising crime, prostitution, madness, higher death rates and falling birth rates – a depraved substance, or so it was called.

A SPOON IN THE TOP OF AN OPEN BOTTLE OF CHAMPAGNE WILL KEEP ITS FIZZ For this one, we have to put our hands up and say the jury’s still out. The best way to prevent a bottle of Champagne, or sparkling from going flat quickly once opened is to use a simple stopper, and most recommended is a stopper

with metal wings that clamp down. However, there is some truth, when a metal spoon stands up next to a cork in testing, that it actually works better at keeping the fizz (bubbles or gas) in the wine.

Professor Richard Zare at Standford University actually tested this and said: “What we found was a surprise – at least to us. The spoons, silver or stainless, were not especially successful in maintaining the sparkle of the wine. But spoons and all other treatments worked better than re-corking the bottles.

At least in this test, re-corking seemed to be the best way to make Champagne lose`` effervescence and taste.”

However, the research also found that leaving the bottle open and untreated (without a spoon) scored better than with.

“These results are complicated by the fact that no two bottles received the same treatment got the same score. The researchers suspect this result is in the nature of sparkling wine made by the Champagne method. Each bottle used a separate micro-environment”, the research concludes.

The theory is that the metal of the spoon acts as a temperature regulator – absorbing the warm air away from the neck of the bottle, leaving the air around the teaspoon cooler.

Therefore, as cold air is denser than warm air, it prevents the gas from escaping.

Still unsure, we would not recommend keeping the bottle in the fridge without a seal for longer than a 12-hour period.”

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° FEATURE °

First Ever

SINGAPORE COCKTAIL WEEK TM

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ast March 7-14, the spotlight’s on Singapore as it staged its first ever and biggest cocktail event so far – Cocktail Week. A celebration of the city’s dynamic and vibrant cocktail scene, the eight-day festival aims to establish Singapore as a top cocktail destination in Asia and beyond.

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Put together by lifestyle events company Curated Events and William Grant & Sons, the inaugural Singapore Cocktail Week featured 30 of the city’s best cocktail bars, some of which hosted 10 of the world’s finest bartenders who flew in especially for the festival. Amongst those who graced the event were Steve Schneider from NYC’s Employees Only, Roman Foltan from London’s Artesian, Monkey Shoulder global brand ambassador Dean Callan and Nathan Beasley of Black Pearl & The Attic in Melbourne.

Festival-goers were never disappointed as the week-long event showcased a host of activities that let them participate in cocktail workshops, visit pop-up bars around town, enjoy signature concoctions made by well-known bartenders and go on bar-hopping tours.

In addition to sampling signature creations from the 30 bars at S$14 each, wristband holders enjoyed a 10 per cent discount to over 20 workshops showcasing the craftsmanship

and talent of Singapore’s cocktail scene. From cocktail-making 101 to cocktail philosophies and learning how to incorporate local flavours into one’s drinks, the workshops allowed consumers to learn first-hand tips from the bartenders’ crème de la crème as well as enjoy tastings of their exclusive cocktails.

Wristband holders also enjoyed a 10 per cent discount to cocktail tours, especially for participants to explore and experience the diversity of Singapore’s cocktail scene. These were no ordinary bar crawls as attendees got up close and personal with the celebrity guest bartenders and observed the differences between various styles of mixed drinks. In effect, discovering how bartenders and owners of Singapore’s best cocktail bars have shaped the city’s unique bar scene.

Singapore Cocktail Week also saw the return of the Singapore Bar Awards started last year

by Australian food and beverage veteran,

Tron Young. The awards honoured the best bartenders, service crew and bar food in town, based on votes by Singapore-based barmen, spirits importers, journalists and key influencers.

So just how successful was the inaugural Singapore Cocktail Week?

The Numbers Speak for Themselves • 30 Participating Cocktail Bars • 20 Consumer & Trade Workshops • 10 International Guest Bartenders • 7 Cocktail Tours • 7 Nightcap Sessions • Over 10 Fringe Events including Pop-Ups, Guest Bartender Shifts and Takeovers, and the Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition • 2 Industry Sessions • 1 Awards Ceremony • About 2,500 Participants (Consumers and Trade)

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° FEATURE ° Rave Reviews A resounding positive reception from both consumers and trade, who came out in full force contributing to an incredibly lively festival atmosphere throughout the eight days: • 81% will go to future editions • 86% will recommend others to participate in future editions • 18.2% of participants were visitors/tourists Almost all participating bars reported heavy consumer traffic and sales “as if everyday was a Friday”. About 9,000 SGCW drinks were served by the 30 participating bars, with some noting that it was a record week for them in terms of sales and/or covers. There was a very palpable, dynamic sense of community throughout the week, as the spread of events created multiple opportunities for the industry to mingle, interact and network.

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I think Curated Events have done a fantastic job putting together the very first Singapore Cocktail Week. It has been a huge networking opportunity between our local bartenders and their international counterparts. The sharing sessions of the industry were great for them to learn from each other as well. New friendships were made, and everyone bonded at the nightcap sessions. There was so much love and support amongst the industry that it makes me proud to be part of an amazing family.

Most importantly, everyone had a fantastic week.

We can’t wait for next year!

CARYN CHEAH

Trade Ambassador, Bacardi-Martini Singapore

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Singapore Cocktail Week was a spectacular showcase of the community, skills and knowledge not only from the local scene, but also from countries surrounding and far away. Singapore is now one of the most spoken about drinks industries, up there with the big dogs such as London and New York.

It would be foolish to ever compare our unique, rapidly growing scene with other countries. I believe Singapore has blossomed into something completely beautiful with its own eccentric twist.

The event was a celebration of our success which we have all worked so closely to achieve. It’s onwards and upwards, the determination of every person involved is undeniable. Next year, I look forward to more pop-ups, seminars and discussions and of course, a few more parties.

ZACHARY CONNOR DE GIT Regional Portfolio Ambassador, William Grant & Sons

Thank you for a fantastic week. We loved everything about it, had some great experiences, enjoyed interesting workshops and a memorable rum dinner, met some fascinating new people and still managed a full week of work despite the late nights! It was a great showcase for the camaraderie of the talented bartenders of the excellent Singapore bar scene and an event of which the country should be proud of.

ALISON MARSHALL SGCW 2015 participant

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° FEATURE ° Going Forward The inaugural edition of Singapore Cocktail Week has built a solid foundation for a quality platform to showcase Singapore’s cocktail scene and expanding crop of bartending talents.

The festival will continue as an annual event to establish Singapore as the leading cocktail destination in Asia, raising the benchmark for quality drinking experiences that are distinctive, affordable and accessible.

One of the main objectives of Singapore Cocktail Week is to build an equally encompassing platform for both trade and industry to learn more about and appreciate the craft and talent in the world of cocktails. To that extent, trade members can look forward to opportunities to attend more of these events, including the Singapore Bar Awards, industry sessions, nightcap sessions and trade seminars and workshops.

Moreover, consumers can expect a carefully curated range of activities for cocktail lovers, be they hands-on workshops, bar walks or other concepts incorporating a greater taste and entertainment element.

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AGAVE ° FEATURE °

GOODNESS T

wo-meter long razor-sharp spikes. A heart the size of man, buried underground. Pollinated by huge bats. A stubborn insistence to grow at least until seven years old. By these descriptions, it would be pretty easy to wonder why on earth anyone would want to cultivate the Weber Blue Agave. This is a plant that, quite frankly, does not seem to want to be domesticated. It grows on volcanoes and takes extremely hard, skilled men hours of labour in the hot Mexican sun to get out.

Rumour has it the first time anyone drank agave juice, it was because lightning struck it. Let’s face it, whether man can tame the agave or not, any spirit coming out of this hombre is bound to be an intense spirit.

WORDS ° John O’Toole Tequila – that’s what we get out of this plant.

So, let’s start unraveling this wild stallion of a spirit, and start at the Beginning. In Aztec mythology, the agave was there right at the very start of the world. And who are we to argue? The legend goes that Mayahuel, Aztec goddess of fertility, created the agave plant for the men of Earth. Not to be outdone by his wife, Mayahuel’s husband, Tepoztecal, the god of alcoholic merriment (side note here: the Aztecs had a god of alcoholic merriment. The Aztecs were badasses) hurled a bolt of lightning at the agave plant, creating a fermented alcoholic

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beverage known as ‘Pulque’. Now, this pulque stuff was really more like a strong beer or weak wine than the fiery spirits of revolucíon that were to come, but it got the job done.

There’s an alternative story here that Mayahuel created pulque from her breast to satisfy her Aztec warrior lover. The myth does not specify which of her 400 breasts she used for this purpose. The rest of the breasts were for feeding her 400 rabbit children. The lovely sideeffect of this myth is that the Aztecs rated their drunkenness on a scale of rabbits. No seriously, they rated drunkenness on a scale of rabbits.

Much more fun than the modern “one to ten”

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scale. Rabbits aside, this pulque was still pretty weak stuff, and when the Conquistadors came in their lust for gold, their thirst was not far behind them. It wasn’t long after settling in the New World that tragedy struck: they ran out of Brandy.

Now this simply would not do; the Spaniards had to have something distilled. So, stills on board, they set about to turn this interesting pulque into something more… civilised. This proved a more difficult task than immediately assumed – which we will revisit later – but eventually, they got the job done, and mezcal was born. The name mezcal actually goes back to the Aztecs again. Mezcal was one word for their pulque. It came from the word “metl”, one of the names in honour of Mayahuel. At first, this drink was called “mezcal wine” and for relatively good reason.

Unlike modern tequila and other spirits, early mezcal wine would have been distilled only once, a tradition that continues to this day in some old-school types of mezcal. Cultivation of this spirit began some time after 1521, the earliest record we have in the Spanish accounts of encountering the Maguey, or agave. What is known, is that by 1600, a man by the name of Don Pedro had set up production in a small town called Tequila, on the side of an extinct volcano. Here, the clay-rich soil produced agaves particularly well-suited to mezcal wine. As always, however, the agave and its spirit had to be difficult.

The trouble with Tequila ­­­­­­­­– the town, anyway –­­­­ was its location in the state of Jalisco. While the Spaniards conquered most of Mexico fairly quickly, Jalisco was bandit country, with a long history of tough Aztec warriors who refused to submit to Spanish rule. Jalisco was so wild, in fact, that even up until the early 1900s it was a source of rebellions and skirmishes. Tequila was its variety of mezcal and developed separately from other varieties in, say, Oaxaca. And while the banditos perfected this spirit, there was a problem: almost no one in the rest of Mexico knew about it.

Of course, before we get to the 20th century, it’s good to look back at a few key dates. Whilst Don Pedro started his distillery in 1600, it was granted royal permission to distill only in 1608.

Nascent distillers in the area began to use only one kind of agave, later identified and named Weber Blue. Previously, they had used many kinds and in other regions, they do to this day.

What would soon be called tequila was even exported to the British Colonies to the North (now the USA) and to Spain.

However, to protect Spanish brandy production, import of brandy from “New Spain” was banned. In 1795, the ban was finally lifted.

Enter José Cuervo. Joe Crow, as he was known (notice the black crow on Cuervo bottles?) received the first royal warrant to distill his mezcal wine, but others soon followed. Sauza, Herradura and Cofradia were all founded in the 1800s as was a distillery at La Alteña. Now legit, we return to the problem of the 20th century: top-notch producers making excellent juice that few people knew about. To get tequila to become a global powerhouse, it needed the Martini treatment. It needed Hollywood.

Well, not quite Hollywood, but after the West was won and Jalisco tamed, the new Mexican film industry really got going in the 1920s and ‘30s. As in the neighbour to the North, Spaghetti Westerns were all the rage in Mexico, though they were called, slightly more politely: Comedia Ranchera - Comedies of the Range. Also like the North, cowboys and bandits laden with six shooters and their bottles of spirits became iconic to the film world. And while the Gringos got drunk on their coffin-varnish bourbon, Los Banditos has fine, fine tequila. Thanks to the film industry, tequila became a symbol of revolution, independence and the fiery Mexican spirit. And with its Aztec and Spanish Conquistador history, tequila was a mestizo product, a relic of both cultures much like Mexico itself.

Thus, unique to any alcohol save perhaps sake, tequila is the most representative spirit of all, a symbol of the history, conflict and culture of its homeland, and embedded in its iconography like nowhere else. Of course, to really get the party started, tequila had to make it out of Mexico, and to do that, it needed to be cool. Its wild nature had to be tamed, perhaps with citrus, as the Jimadors did. Maybe even with a bit of sugar or Orange liqueur, that would do nicely.

Some salt, perhaps to deepen the acidity?

Tequila needed the Margarita, and by god, he got it.

After Prohibition, World War II and the Tiki craze, America was thirsty and the Margarita is the most thirst-quenching cocktail of them all.

By some estimates, it remains the most popular cocktail in the world today, which is kind of a shame, as most Margaritas are sickly sweet concoctions rotating in a slushy machine with pre-made, chemically sour mix and cheap-as-dirt triple sec. But a real margarita, with real tequila, fresh lime and good triple sec (or even better, Agave Nectar) is a truly magnificent thing, an icon of thirst-quenching balance just about unmatched in the cocktail world. And while

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° FEATURE °

Señora Margarita may have tamed the wild spirit of Jalisco, there’s yet to be found anyone that can tame some of its even more badass brothers down South. For as rough and ready as Jalisco may have been, it’s got nothing on Oaxaca.

The history of mezcal is as long and interesting as tequila, but much more fractured. With Oaxacans making what most people now call “mezcal”, there’s also the Northern tradition of Sotol in Chihuahua, Bacanora in Sonora (bonus points for rhyming!), and Raicilla, back in Jalisco.

Exploring the history of tequila, mezcal and agave spirits should be a book in itself. So the next time you raise a glass of these fine spirits, toast to the rebellious spirit of Mexico and remember that the history in that glass is the history of Mexico itself.

AGAVE SPIRITS AND THEIR PRODUCTION Whilst most people outside Mexico are only beginning to discover that there is more to tequila than cheap shots in university bars and epic hangovers, bartenders and aficionados are

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uncovering a whole new world of agave, starting with mezcal.

Mezcal has been popular in the bartending community for some time now and is starting to become a common feature on back bars around the world. In just a few years, Asia has gone from having zero mezcals to having several excellent options available such as Del Maguey, Los Danzantes and more. And as Espadín mezcal becomes a bar standard, bartenders are searching out even more exotic agave spirits (DWA’s favourite? Raicilla). All of these – including tequila itself – are types of mezcal, with the difference being production and the type of agave being used.

The terms “Maguey”, “Agave” and “Weber Blue” are used more or less interchangeably, but in fact, this is inaccurate. There are hundreds of species of agave plant. Weber Blue is simply the most famous. Most modern mezcals are made from the Espadín or Sword agave, so named for its shape. As if to outdo their Northern neighbours, the mezcaleros of Oaxaca take this agave, naturally even bolder in flavour than

the Weber Blue, and cook it underground with smoke, giving the final spirit a smoky, earthy flavour that begs comparison to Islay Single Malt Scotches.

Agave spirits are unique for a couple of reasons, but one above all others. Whilst most spirits are made from raw ingredients that grow annually and each year a new crop harvested, agaves have to mature underground for several years before their piña or heart can be harvested. For Weber Blue, this is between 7 to 10 years and for spirits like Raicilla, it can take up to 30.

When learning about agave, the first introduction is tequila, and about the Agave Weber Tequilana Azul, one of over 200 species that have been identified and the only one allowed in tequila production. This particular variety takes an average of eight years to mature and be harvested. In essence, the ageing process for tequila happens before distillation, with the plant spending eight years or more absorbing all of the elements and energy of the sun. This has led many agave experts to believe

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that the influence of “terroir” with agave spirits has a huge influence on the final taste.

All agave plants and spirits are a bit different, but let’s start with the unquestionable leader of the pack: tequila. A fully matured Weber Blue agave looks like a giant pineapple, with leaves as tall as a small person and a piña – or heart – which can weigh 50-200kg. Unlike other spirits that use machinery to harvest, all agave, Weber Blue included, is harvested by hand by the skilled Jimadores with their Coa – basically an axe – then cut up and the Corta, or bitter parts, are removed before the cooking process.

The traditional way is to cook the agave in stone ovens which can take up to 72 hours.

These days, modern distillers use autoclaves (basically giant pressure cookers) which get the job done in 12-18ihours. This cooking process converts agave’s carbohydates into fermentable sugars. Agave is then slowly cooked at low temperatures (60 to 90 degrees Celsius) to avoid caramelising the sugars which can cause bitter flavours in the liquid.

Juice extraction from the cooked piña is next.

The traditional way is to use the “Tahona”, a large stone wheel that is pulled by a donkey or mule that gently crushes and extracts juices from the agave. The more modern way is with a more mechanical system that has a conveyor belt and passes the cooked agave through a giant shredder. The liquid extracted is called “aguamiel” or honey water, which is then mixed with some water before fermentation commences. Mezcal production differs from this as the agave is generally cooked in pits underground, thus, that smoky flavour.

The next step is fermentation in wooden vats to create precious alcohol. This is where yeast is added to the aguamiel to begin converting sugars into alcohol. Traditionally, wild yeast was used in tequila fermentation, but nowadays yeast strains are cultured then added for a more controlled ferment. The liquid that results from fermentation is similar to a beer and is often called “Pulque”, like the original Aztec ferment, and is still drunk around Mexico. Alcohol geek side note here: modern day pulque actually comes from Agave Atrovirens Kawr or “the mild

agave”, a variety that’s common pre-1700 and still relatively easy to grow in various regions.

Before distillation, the fermented liquid is given around 12 hours to rest. Whilst most 100 per cent agave tequilas are produced using a pot still, larger more industrial operations now use column stills as well. The majority of tequilas are distilled twice, however a few brands – notably Casa Nobles – are distilled three times.

And remember mezcal wine? Some mezcals are still only distilled once, to about 30% ABV. Take it from us, the resulting spirit is intense!

Tradition is still to use relatively small pot stills, similar in size to French alembics, as opposed to American and Irish “doublers.”

Once we have that precious spirit, it’s on to the final step (for some tequilas) of ageing.

There are four age classifications for tequila and mezcal, namely: Blanco - less than 2 months, Reposado - between 2-12 months, Añejo between 1 year to 3 years, and extra Añejo - over 3 years. When talking to most seasoned tequila drinkers, the Blanco is always the mark of a great tequila, as the pure agave flavour is

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° FEATURE ° sought after.

Of course, each variety has its fans. Julio Bermejo, surely one of the most agave soaked gentlemen in the world and owner of Tommy’s Mexican in San Francisco, loves the Reposado best due to its huge variance and complexity.

And just try separating tequila sipping aficionados from their beloved Añejo and Extra

Añejos! Regardless, most tequilas are aged in ex-bourbon barrels, but a few are beginning to experiment with different cask finishes such as Patron Burdeos that is aged in ex-Bordeaux wine barrels.

After ageing is completed, well, my friends, we have Tequila. Or Mezcal. Or Sotol. So there we have it. Now pour yourself something nice.

Make a sangrita recipe or pour some squirt and reposado into a glass for a Paloma. Either way, there’s never been a better time to raise a glass to the spirit of warriors, bandits and badasses.

Toast the spirit of Mexico; it’s been waiting for you.

Saludos!

Some of our favourite Agave spirits TEQUILA OCHO Few men can claim to have done as much for Team Agave than Tomás Estes. After a successful teaching career, Estes opened Cafe Pacifico, one of Europe’s first Mexican restaurant and bars, in 1976. Now the proud owner of a few Mexican bars and restaurants, in 2007, Estes joined forces with fifth generation Master Distiller Carlos Camarena to create Tequila Ocho. Made at La Alteña, Ocho is the product of the shared passion of two true agave luminaries. Crafted in the belief that the agave should express itself fully, each tequila is a true vintage product. Each batch is produced with agaves hand picked from a specific rancho or agave field, and only from a single harvest. Each year and Rancho has its own idiosyncrasies, and will vary slightly. Yet the process – from “slow and low” longer roasting and resting times to using mezcal-style wild yeast methods – is all about capturing the maximum agave expression.

Using fatigued barrels means that the Reposados and Añejos are more a statement of how agave flavour matures over time, rather than how many vanillins and lignins from the oak influence the final taste of the agave. Of course, whichever year you’re drinking, it’s going to be knockout delicious.

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SIETE LEGUAS When talking about the history of Mexico, it’s difficult to find a better exemplar than the legendary Pancho Villa. So famous was he that even his favourite horse inspired a great tequila.

Spanish for “seven leagues”, Siete Leguas is an old-school, outstanding tequila. Named for the incredible distance the horse was able to gallop (25kms), the tequila is a testament to going the distance. It remains one of the few tequilas to still use donkey-drawn Tahonas for mashing its piñas into fermentable aguamiel. Also unique is its mixture of aguamiel from two different distilleries: El Centenario and La Vencedora, both founded in the 1940s. The current recipe dates from 1952 and Don Ignacio Gonzalez Vargas. In addition to its heritage methods, the Gonzalez de Anda family retains some of the most sought after agave in all of Mexico. When they are able to sell extra agaves from a good harvest (not all of a distillery’s agaves automatically go to the house tequila), the agaves from their fields are the most expensive in Jalisco. Oh, and it was the original recipe for Patrón, which you’ve probably heard of.

HERRADURA Although it is now owned by the global conglomerate Brown Forman, tequila Herradura remains an excellent example of craft tequila. Where Ocho goes for maximum agave expression (and thus minimum oak) and Siete Leguas tries to find the perfect balance, Herradura embraces all the big, bold flavours ex-bourbon casks have to offer. Its Blanco is a wonderfully fresh, herbal and grassy affair, but its aged variants are luscious, rich and intense products. Definitely for those with a sweet tooth, Herradura manages to walk a fine balance between being an artisanal, excellent product as well as a truly global brand. If you don’t see your personal favourite on the back bar, you certainly can’t go wrong with this bad boy.

DEL MAGUEY This is the brand that truly put mezcal on the map. They remain the market leaders with incredible, unique, single-village mezcals that must be tasted to be believed. Del Maguey, Single Village Mezcal was founded in 1995 by Ron Cooper. It’s tough to get any bigger than Ron Cooper in the mezcal game. Introducing 100 per cent certified organic, artisanal mezcal produced the original handcrafted way, Ron almost single-handedly ended the myth of mezcal as a second-rate spirit or inferior tequila clone. Through deep cultural relationships with Zapotec Mexican Indian producers in the remote villages of Oaxaca, Mexico, Del Maguey harnesses ancient, original organic processes.

Combining these methods with varying microclimates and terroir gives each creation its own unique, rich, sweet and smoky character.

Of course, opened doors must be walked through, and, indeed, there are many new mezcals as good as Del Maguey, but it remains the bellwether brand, and mid-way through your third glass (try the Tobala) you’ll surely understand why.

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° FEATURE °

Gaz Regan’s

Mindful

Bartending GETTING STARTED (Part 2 of 4 editions)

W

hen I first stepped behind the bar in New York when I was just 23 years old, I was pretty much terrified of my customers. I had just arrived in the United States from a small town in England, and everyone in the Big Apple seemed to be so much smarter, quicker and more sophisticated than I was. I was an easy target for savvy New Yorkers to tease, and tease me they did.

It didn’t take me long though to develop a practice that made it easier for me to deal with the situation. I would arrive for work a full hour before I was due to start my shift, order a meal, and I would sit quietly on my own, eating slowly and gearing myself to face the crowd. If anyone tried to join me, I would politely tell them that I wanted to be alone. When the time came for me to start my shift, I found that I felt peaceful, centered, and ready to deal with whatever came my way. Although I didn’t know it, I was indulging in a form of meditation.

If you have ever practiced meditation, you will know that, although you are seeking to get away from the constant chatter that goes on in your mind, it’s very difficult to “tune out” for long periods of time. Our minds constantly try to stray to thoughts such as “I wonder if Jim and Coleen will be at the bar tonight,” or “I wish I’ve had handled that situation with my partner differently this morning.” Thoughts about the past and the future, rather than living in the present.

It’s important then, that, when we meditate, we recognize every time that our minds are straying. We don’t beat ourselves up about it, and instead, we simply try to come back to that place of stillness. And in that same vein, when we realize that we’re not being mindful, we take that opportunity to steer ourselves back to living in the present moment. The past is gone, and the future hasn’t yet arrived.

Be Here Now. This present moment is all that’s real. Next time, I’ll give you some guidance on how to incorporate meditation into your life and your craft. Meanwhile, though, try to think about living in the present moment, and what that means to you.

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It was at The Library Bar that my theatre became bigger and I became known as ‘The Maestro’

The Maestro takes

Centre Stage N

ext year marks the 50th that Salvatore Calabrese, aka The Maestro, has been tending bar.

Debuting on the Amalfi Coast at the tender age of 11, Calabrese now enjoys legendary status in the bar industry globally having earned his stripes along the way in legendary establishments such as the Dukes Hotel and the Lanesborough Library Bar in London. Calabrese’s CV includes books, barware, some of the leading venues in London’s West End and even the world’s most expensive cocktail. His influence on the industry was recently described as ‘colossal’ by Imbibe magazine’s editor, Chris Losh, when awarding Calabrese the 2015 Industry Legend Award of Imbibe magazine.

Ashley Pini from Drinks World Asia had the opportunity of finding out what the past 50 years has taught the Maestro, his view on cocktail competitions and what sets his bars apart from the rest. Calabrese has served such luminaries as The Queen of England, Princess Diana, Elton John, Robert De Niro and Stevie Wonder. If ever the term ‘celebrity bartender’ was apt, meeting Calabrese was the time to use it.

DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Is it true you started your career as an 11-year-old behind the bar?

Salvatore Calabrese: Yes, it all started on the Amalfi Coast back in 1966. It was a summer job, and yes, I was only 11 – working in a Hotel Bar

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in my hometown. You could say I learnt a lot at an early age.

DWA: Were you hooked then or have you ever considered another career?

SC: I thought about the navy for a while, but hurt my eyesight – so that put that idea to bed. I have to say, I’ve never looked back.

DWA: Where would you say you got your ‘big break’?

SC: That would be when I took over the Lanesborough Library Bar in 1994. This was an iconic place where I served the ‘Super-Cool Martini’. I even served Her Majesty (The Queen of England) a Martini as I became well known

for my ‘Direct Martini’; very cold and very dry.

I came to the Lanesborough from the Dukes Hotel where I had been for 12 years. I decided to leave the ‘small stage’ and go for the bigger stage, and the Lanesborough Library Bar was that bigger stage, but it was soulless with only a few people. And it was there where I started to bring the soul; what hospitality means to me, and in the first year, I made that bar one of the most successful bars in London.

DWA: What did you do to turn the bar around?

SC: Whenever someone comes into my bar, I know how to make them feel comfortable.

That is the first and most important rule. You are

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° MEET °

DWA: You must have seen such change in the industry over the last 49 years – one of which is the rise of the cocktail competition. What do you think about cocktail competitions and which would you recommend bartenders enter?

SC: I judge cocktail competitions all around the world and I think they have really helped the quality of bartending improve over the years.

One of the biggest competitions I do now is the Diageo World Class Cocktail Competition.

I am one of the first gurus and help guide competitors through the competition.

DWA: Is there anything that sets one competition apart from another?

SC: There are two styles of cocktail competition.

There’s the style that is all about the drinks, then there is the style that is also about the knowledge and the serving of that drink.

DWA: Which do you think is more valuable?

SC: I think they are both just as valuable as each other. They are just different. I do think the modern bartender sometimes makes the drink too complicated, and competitions have influenced that – which to me is important as it’s a big dream for a bartender to be immortalized through creating a classic drink, so in a hundred

PHOTOS: The Italian Bartenders, 13th March 2015, On Dining Kitchen & Bar © 2015 – 360tovisit.com

coming into my house, and no matter who you are, I want to make you feel welcome by me or by one of my team. It was because of people like Giancarlo (now owner of Ono in Hong Kong) who worked with me in the 90s and others in the team that played the music I wanted them to. What I mean by music is (not the background music) the ambience of every individual person and their personality. It needed to reflect what I wanted in the bar. It needed to welcome and entertain everyone that came into the bar. The team made the bar and I carefully chose staff with the personality I wanted – that was right for the bar. It was at The Library Bar that my theatre became bigger and I became known as ‘The Maestro’.

I also believed in ‘cocktail culture’ – quality fresh ingredients, which made us different. We became the place where hospitality and the drinks were second to none. So we continued to serve the celebrities, like Paul McCartney, Mick Jagger, Princess Diana and Robert De Niro. Stevie Wonder would come in and play the piano, and Elton John was there. Everyone who wanted to come came to the place where it came to be a show of people.

Stevie Wonder would come in and play the piano and Elton John was there. Everyone who wanted to come came to the place where it came to be a show of people

years’ time someone is still talking about it.

That’s not easy when the drink is really complex.

But when it comes to entering competitions, it actually doesn’t matter if you win or not.

It’s about learning from others and constantly improving yourself. I enjoy this the most because it means my passion (and) my love for this industry is safe.

DWA: So what makes a good cocktail? How do you judge them?

SC: Really, for me it’s about simplicity. Over the years, I feel we’ve become more complex; more creative but less iconic. Because we make

the drinks so complex and difficult to create, so somehow that drink cannot become a classic.

DWA: And naming the cocktails?

SC: Again (it’s all about) simplicity. It’s always best in my book.

DWA: Agreed. Simply put, who would you call a mentor, someone you’d like to work with and someone you’d enjoy a drink with?

SC: Mentor: my first boss, Signor Raffaello.

Work with: Professor Jerry Thomas and for a drink: that’s easy, my good friend Peter Dorelli.

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Jason ° MEET °

Williams

P

rior to taking the role of Creative Director at Proof & Company, Jason Williams was the group bars manager for The Keystone Group. He has worked in some of the best venues and organisations in Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. He is no stranger to winning cocktail competitions either, having taken out the Australian Bartender of the Year Competition in 2010. He was also the winner of the 2013 Beefeater 24 Global Bartender Competition in London.

DRINKS WORLD ASIA: Tell us a little bit about yourself. Did you always want to work in the hospitality industry?

JASON WILLIAMS: I have been working within the hospitality industry since I was quite young.

I started off as a bussie, plied my trade as a bartender and bar manager, and now have taken a role as Creative Director at Proof & Company, an international spirits and cocktail collective.

I was always drawn to this industry. Initially through my extended family’s involvement in pubs in Queensland, Australia, then through my love of bartending. I have always relished working with people, flavours and memorable experiences.

DWA: Can you share with us your time in Australia? What are the things that you’re going to miss most working there?

JW: I am a proud Aussie who is particularly proud and vocal about the strong bartending, bar and hospitality industry and standards in Australia. I have worked in some of the best venues and organisations in Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney, so I feel that I have a pretty good handle on the bar and spirits industry. I believe Australia has one of the strongest scenes in the world with a fantastic mix of creativity, professionalism, forward thinking, amazing working conditions and genuinely high (albeit with an Australian tinge) service standards.

Now that I am working in Asia, I will miss my colleagues, peers and friends in the industry in Australia. I’ll miss that strong industry and

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also the lifestyle. And I’ll simply just miss the amazing bars and cafes in Sydney. That said, I plan to be back regularly and to share my learnings from Asia with the community back home.

DWA: What made you decide to move to Singapore?

JW: The opportunity to work with Proof & Company, out of our offices in Singapore and Hong Kong. We are doing some really cool things, and I wanted to be a part of it. Our mission is simple: to help spread the wonderful craft of fine drinking in the world’s fastest growing region. The region is waking up to the joys of fine food and beverage, so the timing couldn’t be more perfect. We are seeing a remarkable amount of investment in great projects, both big and small, and a fast evolving consumer base that is increasingly demanding better service, drinks and experiences.

DWA: What are your general thoughts on the Singapore bar scene? How is it different from Sydney?

JW: Singapore and Asia, in general, is experiencing an incredible flourishing in fantastic bars and restaurants. These are the new generation of venues that have more defined concepts as well as a serious commitment to quality, drinks and service. This city is economically strong, and there is a large expat community so this idea of more discerning experiences is growing.

The ‘scene’ or this part of the F&B industry

is very small, but it’s growing at an incredible rate. Whilst there are still ways to go to match Sydney or Melbourne in terms of richness or diversity, there are some really cool things happening here, and you can sense it’s a real burgeoning industry to speak of.

DWA: What is your new role with Proof and Company? What do you hope to do and achieve for the company?

JW: As Creative Director, I lead our work on creative bar and F&B projects with clients across Asia and beyond. Jordan, Thailand, Korea, Japan and Burma are just a small number of the spots on our plate right now. Our creative team is structured similarly to a design firm or creative agency. Instead of designers or ad people, I have a wonderful team made up of some of the world’s best bartenders with me, including industry luminaries such as David Cordoba, Zdenek Kastanek, Michael Callahan and Peter Chua. As a team, our mandate is to strive to spread the idea of fine drinking and amazing experiences in bars, restaurants and beyond.

This is a powerful idea anywhere in the world, let alone in emerging markets where there is a thirst for innovation and premium service.

Our goals for the next few years are exciting, as we are well on track to become an Asia-wide platform for our brands and clients. We have lots of work to do! And the fun side, I’m also excited to be behind the stick regularly again at our own cocktail bar, 28 Hong Kong Street in Singapore.

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DWA: What ideas have you learned whilst working in Australia that you will apply in your new position?

JW: I think there is an Australian sensibility which I believe can be showcased and appreciated here a bit. A lot of younger bartenders delve head first into the geeky side of bartending and cocktails and lose the hospitality and fun factor of bartending and hosting guests. As a mature cocktail market, Australia has gone full circle on this already, so I think one area where I can be of influence is this idea of taking cocktails seriously but not themselves and really engage with guests on a human level.

Moreover, Australians are really creative and come up with some of the smartest, well thought out, yet innovative cocktails in the world. My days at The Keystone Group reaffirmed to me the importance of effective training, a high level of human engagement with bartenders, and also how the drinks we serve are just one part of what we can do as bar professionals to ‘blow people away’.

All in all, I am excited to have the opportunity to share these great Australian experiences with new markets in Asia.

DWA: Is there a person you particularly admire within the industry?

JW: In Australia – the current crop of awesome owner operators in Sydney really impress me, and I am lucky to call them good friends. The Swillhouse guys: Anton, Jason and Toby. The Bulletin Place guys: Rob, Adi, Tim and Hobbsy.

Jared Merlino at Lobo Plantation too. The crew at Sweet & Chilli Australia are great; very professional, do very strong work for the big guys and like to party. Liquor company-wise, I think James France at Vanguard Luxury Brands is one of the best people in the industry. He is passionate about good drinks, bars and people, and how he operates and his brands reflect that.

DWA: If you can offer one piece of advice to bartenders wanting to make the move to Asia or anywhere in the world, what would it be?

JW: There is a lot of opportunity for talented people in Asia, so I highly recommend exploring options out here. Although I would advise not moving not just for money or taking a position that appeals, rather weigh up the personal and cultural aspects of a move too.

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째 VISIT 째

How Travelling

Can Enrich Your Craft WORDS 째 Mark Thomas

A

s a bartender, it has become essential more than ever to travel and see the world and the myriad of bars and bartenders out there. Not just because of what you will see and learn, but to understand different ways of looking at things. By travelling and exposing yourself to different environments and demographics, you begin to understand the different elements of bar service. You become an all-rounded person and professional.

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We, in the industry, have to be careful because due to the resurgence or should I say the boom of the cocktail industry, the influx of suspender clad barmen and women has been overwhelming to say the least. And getting in touch with our peers across borders is good to re-align our booze chakras once in a while.

As what Harry Gerakis of Loves Company, Shoreditch, UK said “We must remember that when a guest sits at the bar, they are the star.” This was so simple yet so true. To build a successful bar culture, the impact must be made not with the product but with the interaction.

During my stint at the lovable bar just across from Nightjar, I was exposed to the UK drinking

culture, the revival of bar tricks, jokes and smiles and pure interaction between strangers.

On a craft standpoint, I learnt how bartenders overseas adapt flavours and tastes depending on seasons and the availability of particular ingredients. “A little bit of honey goes a long way,” says Harry, a Greek by birth. The core of the bar industry has remained just that in Europe from Paris to London.

Focused on the fact that when you step into the bar, you never know what adventures you might end up having. This process is two-way as shown during a lecture about spirits and cocktails I gave at the Westminster Kingsway College of Hospitality in Victoria. The session didn’t only give us culinary greats such as Jamie

Travelling doesn’t just show you other cultures and experiences.

It teaches you and shows you a lot about yourself

ERIC LAM

Owner of Mrs Pound, Hong Kong

Oliver, but it also enable me to share with the students Singaporean and Asian bar culture and drinking habits. The lecture, spirits and kits were sponsored by the London office of Diageo, showing the industry’s extensive reach and generosity when it comes to teaching.

Travelling also teaches you to be humble since you get to see how the lives of these men and women differ in terms of what they sacrifice to be able to do what they do – from expenses to travelling to lifestyle. Not to mention that it enables you to compare and examine the differences in styles between cultures.

In the city of Taipei, cocktail culture has taken Oriental bartending techniques and blended them with the fast-paced volume of clubs.

“Using the local scene around you and learning the produce and terroir is important”, says Angus Zhou of Alchemy Bar. Watching Angus and his team work as well as working alongside them was a treat as the combination of grace and speed was in a word “beautiful”. Angus has a predilection for using local herbs and spices which definitely teaches you to use what you have on hand – and adaptability. Because produce is always best fresh, we followed Viktor

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° VISIT °

atman A The B

K omas A

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Mark Th

Yang (one of the bartenders at Alchemy) around Taipei to hidden nooks to find interesting herbs and spices. It’s amazing to see their relationship with the farmers and people that supply their ingredients.

In Hong Kong, the cocktail culture is making good headway as more and more locals and expats are starting to flock to these speakeasies and bars springing up all over town. Because of the fast-paced nature of the city and its people, working there proved to be quite a challenge.

Having a good knowledge of classics and the ability to work in small places is a plus in the dense city.

At Post 97, my night at the bar was spent dishing out simple classics and my own drinks; learning how bartenders arranged their stations and adapted their tools and station setup was so valuable. Watching them prepare their ice and syrups in different methods proved that necessity is the mother of invention. With the introduction of Proof & Company in the last two years, the availability of craft spirits has increased tremendously further amalgamating the Eastern sphere with our Western counterparts.

Lastly, travelling introduces you to the bonds of friendship and the sharing of information – from new spirits to new methods to having a couch to crash on. It also shows you different rituals as well as various ways people enjoy their tipples. Competitions and guest shifts expose you to camaraderie best left to war movies.

Bartenders as a faction are synonymous to the masons of yesteryear. We belong to a society bound by the love of serving and creating masterpieces that echo through time. And we are no longer an all-boys club, which is amazing.

The sharing of knowledge with social media and more and more bartenders travelling opens you to the fact that we, as an industry, should question everything – methods, flavours and service standards.

In closing, I would like to share a quote from Esher Williams, who is on the Board of Directors at Westminster Kingsway College in London.

She was the one who invited me to give a guest lecture and coincidentally enough, also worked at the Fat Duck in London during her early years.

“Travelling and working in other countries not only broadens your skills, but also reminds you every time why you started doing it in the first place”. I asked her over dinner if she has ever regretted travelling and constantly moving, and her response was “Nope, not one bit. My F&B life has been enriched through every step, even the smallest one”.

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° PROFILE °

The World of

W

ith a heritage that spans 180 years, González Byass is globally recognised as a producer of fine wines and brandies from Jerez, Spain. The González family’s passion for wine has inspired them to not only spread the culture of sherry throughout the world but also to transform the house into a family of wineries that exemplifies Spain’s winemaking diversity. From the iconic Tio Pepe to the Soberano and Lepanto marques, González Byass’ legacy continues.

HISTORY AND HERITAGE González Byass’ long tradition of winemaking excellence began when Manuel Maria González Angel decided to join the thriving and lucrative sherry business. Counselled by his uncle, Jose Angel de la Peña, he set up his company in 1835. He knew from the beginning that the company’s future would depend on exports and that the market was the United Kingdom.

Hence, the first export of 10 barrels left for London. The following year, 62 barrels were shipped. At the end of 1836, Manuel Maria started working with Robert Blake Byass. Sales grew year after year, and the company was expanding into France, Germany and even as far as Russia.

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The expansion prompted Manuel Maria to construct La Constancia. In 1844, the first barrels of Tio Pepe were exported to England.

Years later, Manuel Maria dedicated a small bodega to his uncle and wrote on one of the casks in chalk “Solera del Tio Pepe”. It was here in this bodega that Jose Angel and his friends began to meet and enjoy the wine of Tio Pepe.

Thus, the iconic sherry brand was born.

By 1855, Robert Blake Byass became a partner in the business. In 1857, Los Apostoles was inaugurated and La Cuadrada, two years later.

At the same time, modern stills were set up for brandy production. These stills utilise the same traditional solera and criadera techniques used in sherry ageing. Later in 1863, the company was renamed González Byass.

46 °

The 19th century saw González Byass expanding at a steady pace. In 1963, the Gran Bodega Tio Pepe was constructed, with a capacity of 30,000 barrels. Bodega Las Copas, with a capacity of around 60,000 barrels, came next in 1972. Others followed suit, including La Concha and the Lepanto bodega. In 1988, the Byass family withdrew from the company.

Although no Byass descendant is associated with González today, the brand name remains.

Over the past 30 years, González Byass has turned itself into a family of wineries. It now owns vineyards in some of Spain’s wine producing regions: Bodegas Beronia (Rioja), Cavas Vilarnau (Barcelona), Finca Constancia (Toledo), Finca Moncloa (Cádiz) and Viñas del Vero (Somontano). The company has also

expanded into the premium spirits business, with brands such as The London Nº1, Original Blue Gin and Druide Vodka.

The González family was not only at the forefront of sherry winemaking but also in the installation of the first electric lighting and running water in the plant, as well as numerous other industrial and cultural innnovations. It has also played a leading role in the exciting story of brandy from Jerez.

Some 180 years later after its inception, González Byass remains a family operated company. Today, it stands as the first Spanish winery and sixth in the world in the “Top 100 Wineries of 2014” ranking at the World Association of Journalists and Writers of Wines and Spirits (WAWWJ).

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° PROFILE ° WINERIES Bodegas Beronia (Rioja) Acquired by González Byass in 1982, Bodegas Beronia is one of the wineries most representative of the company. It markets more than 4 million bottles of wine and at present has more than 25,000 barrels with an average age of less than five years.

Moreover, Beronia produces a classic line of fine and well-balanced wines, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva in the pure, traditional Rioja style. The grape varieties used here are all authorised by the Appellation of Origin of Rioja and include Tempranillo (90%), Graciano (3%), Mazuelo (3%) and Viura (4%).

Cavas Vilarnau Vilarnau has been producing high standard cavas and wines since 1948. In 1982, the winery became a part of González Byass. It is one of the few vineyards in the area that controls the entire winemaking process. All its cavas are produced using the traditional method of a second fermentation in the bottle and are aged on lees. Its product range consists of Vilarnau Brut, Demi-sec, Brut Nature, Rosé, Gran

Reserva Vintage and Albert de Vilarnau.

Vilarnau’s philosophy is based on respect for the terroir and the environment. Every single process – from the vineyard itself to winemaking, packaging and recycling – is environmentally friendly in homage to its ancestors’ origins and tradition.

Finca Moncloa Located in Arcos de la Frontera, Cádiz, the winery is dedicated to the production of high quality red wines. Both traditional, regional winemaking techniques and modern new world techniques are used.

Grape varieties planted here include Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Tintilla de Rota.

The wine of Finca Moncloa is produced in the winery of González Byass in Jerez as everything essential can be found for the production, ageing, stabilisation and bottling of white and red wines.

Finca Constancia This winery in Toledo produces a variety of young and fruity wines, as well as more

complex and mature wines. It cultivates a mix of international and indigenous grape varieties, including Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Graciano, Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

Wines crafted here are marketed under the brand names Altozano and Finca Constancia, and are considered to be amongst the best wines in Spain.

Viñas del Vero Acquired by González Byass in 2008, Viñas del Vero is the number one winery in terms of volume and quality in the Denomination of Origin Somontano. Producing more than 6 million bottles a year, it accounts for 45% of the production of the entire DO. Viñas del Vero’s wines have become a point of reference and its broad portfolio includes young wines (Chardonnay, rosé and red), Crianzas (Chardonnay, Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon), Viñas del Vero collection (Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Pinot Noir), Winemaker’s selection (Clarion and Gran Vos) and the specialties (Secastilla, Blecua and Limited Series).

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° PROFILE °

PRODUCT PORTFOLIO González Byass’ sherries cover the whole spectrum of Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, Pedro Ximenez and Pale Cream, allowing consumers to vary their drinks

selection to suit every possible occasion. The company also produces brandy, and famous brands include Soberano and Lepanto.

In addition to the wines and brandies from

Jerez, Beronia, Finca Constancia and the cavas and wines of Vilarnau, González Byass also distributes other brands, including London Nº1 Gin, the fruit liquors Gran Pecher and Gran Pomier, Chinchon, as well as oils and vinegars from Hacienda de Bracamonte.

TIO PEPE Named after Manuel González’s uncle – Jose Angel de la Peña – Tio Pepe is the brand for which González Byass is best known for. It was the first fino sherry sold in England in the mid19th century, and it gradually gained recognition in other markets. Today, it is an icon in sherry wine and the Spanish consumer product enjoyed by the largest number of countries around the globe.

Tio Pepe is made using gently pressed Palomino Fino, a grape variety that thrives in the chalky soil of Jerez. It is then aged in American oak barrels for an average of four years utilising traditional solera system, during which the wine undergoes ageing under a layer of yeast called flor. This gives Tio Pepe its distinct colour, aroma and character.

With a light nose of dried flowers, almonds and olives as well as a dry palate dominated by chalky notes, Tio Pepe is a good introduction to Fino Sherry.

Rediscovering Sherry Words | Josef Murray Sherry has been making a dramatic resurgence worldwide. These days, restaurants and bars showcase sherry with both respect and appreciation. Sherry is a complex wine with different attributes of quality and enjoyment, expressed across a broad range of different styles. To be enjoyed on its own, with food or as a key element in cocktails, the versatility of the world’s most famous fortified wine is still being discovered.

You are spoilt for choice when it comes to exploring and finding the style that best suits you as an individual. Gone are the tags of “what Grandma used to drink.” The consumers of sherry are becoming younger every year as the experience and distinction of consumers expand.

We are faced with producers showcasing some amazing wines from family owned and run bodegas holding onto traditions that, for some, date back to the 13th century when Jerez

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was liberated from the 800-year occupation by the Moors. The close knit community of producers through the Sherry Triangle cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María, Andalusia, Southern Spain are wonderful advocates of sherry who not only produce a great product but are also some straight up great people.

Focusing on one of Spain’s most celebrated bodegas, González Byass continues to produce historical labels such as Tio Pepe Fino and Apostoles Palo Cortado. In particular, the Tio Pepe En Rama we have listed is a limited edition label that is released every year. Master Blender Antonio Flores hand-selects from a total of 20,000 Tio Pepe barrels the best 600. He then closely monitors them during their maturation and chooses the 60 barrels that show the depth and flavour he is looking for. These are then blended and bottled with minimal filtration for a refined taste that can only be experienced from

consuming straight from the cask.

Ham & Sherry and 22 Ships are dedicated to showcasing Jerez wine, its attributes, range and history to our guests in Hong Kong and Asia. At Ham & Sherry, we list over 50 labels and offer the most comprehensive selection of all styles in Asia. With 22 Ships, we have joined forces with González Byass and put together our own label – 22nd Ship, The Lost Ship Palo Cortado (usually called Leonor) – which continues to be a favourite with our guests.

Sherry is continuing to grow in popularity across Asia. People are realising that the world of fine wine is not just champagne, white and red, but also includes the likes of sherry and port. People are happy to try something new, and it’s up to us as facilitators to give them the opportunity and deliver the product the best way possible.

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THE LONDON Nº1 Known as the Original Blue Gin, The London Nº1 is one of a handful of premium gins actually distilled in London. It was created to reflect the complex and full bodied gins of yesteryear, but with a modern twist – a luminous, pale yet bright torquoise-blue colour.

Made from the highest quality English grain spirit from Suffolk and Norfolk, The London

Nº1 is triple distilled in small batches under the watchful eye of Master Distiller Charles Maxwell. Distillation takes place in a traditional pot still with 12 carefully selected botanicals – juniper, coriander, angelica, lemon peel, cassia bar, liquorice, cinnamon, almond, savory, orris root and orange root. It also contains gardenia and bergamot – that easily recognisable perfumed aroma most often encountered in Earl

Grey tea.

Bottled at 47% ABV, The London Nº1 is delicate and elegant on the nose with noticeable spicy and balsamic notes. It is soft, elegant and mellow on the palate with a long refreshing finish, all of which adds up to a sophisticated, well-rounded gin that delivers in every area.

The London Nº1 has a place on the back bar at Ping Pong. It’s a bridge between the Mediterranean gins we specialise in, and the gins of my motherland. It’s a drink for people that crave London Dry juniper-heavy spirits to the herbaceous and citrusy Spanish gins we stock and import. It’s strong, punchy and peppery with menthol notes, which holds up well in mixed drinks and equally in a simple gin and tonic.

With the Gin market being so heavily saturated in the most recent years, people don’t mind not having the accolade of ‘London Dry’. I don’t think this is necessarily a bad thing as it diversifies the category and leaves the bartender with a heavier arsenal and another choice for the consumer. Gins these days are coming from nooks and crannies all over the world (even somewhere as awful as Clapham). Is it my go to Gin? No, but it is for many of our customers at Ping Pong.

LEO OWEN-BOYS Ping Pong Bar

DRINKS WORLD ASIA

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° PROFILE ° NOMAD OUTLAND WHISKY Nomad Outland Whisky is a product of the team up of González Byass Master Blender Antonio Flores and whisky guru Richard Paterson.

Together they have turned the traditional Scotch ageing process on its head by taking the distilled spirit to Jerez to mature in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. This gives Nomad’s quintessential Scottish character and a soul that’s truly Jerezano.

Nomad’s aromas and flavours have been enhanced by this innovative process, where the whisky is allowed to imbibe the native yeasts, flors, humidity and sea breezes that fill the famous González Byass cellars in Jerez.

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The result is a smooth, rounded and mellow whisky that stands out from the rest and which challenges and excites consumers looking for something different.

This original blend is made with whiskies between 5 and 8 years old, which are left to mature in sherry casks in Scotland for three years altogether and then transferred to Jerez to age in the González Byass cellars for a minimum of 12 months. It’s a unique formulation with more than 30 different single malt and grain whiskies, blended in the Highlands of Scotland, using whiskies principally sourced from Speyside.

DRINKS WORLD ASIA

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COMING SOON!

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