The spirits of Portland, Oregon

SPIRITS & LIQUEURS DRINKING PORTLAND

Portland is a city in transition. It rains plenty, there are strip clubs everywhere, and the brewers rule the roost. However, the past three years alone have seen the number of hotel rooms jump by 40%, a mirror of change sweeping the Pacific North West city, the rival of its noisy neighbour, Seattle. This is a region long focused on quality food and beverage...and music. There’s a pioneering spirit that encourages these explorers to break the rules; to seek out new and exciting ways to create, grow, brew, ferment and distil. The food and drink scene in Portland is buzzing, beer and wines have flourished here for decades - now they are joined by craft distilling and the quality is exceptional.

Portland sits amidst an explorer and adventurer’s dream environment. If you love the outdoors (minus white sandy beaches), then this is the place for you. The city itself is on the Willamette River, just below the Hudson. Imposing mountain peaks scatter the horizon, the most notable being Mount Hood at 3450 metres (over 11,000ft) and capped with snow year-round. Mount St Helens* can be seen on a clear day, a volcanic reminder that this area is in the “Ring of Fire” and the reason locals frequently remark “the big one is bound to happen one day soon”. Encircling the towering peaks are vast forested areas and a literal sense of clean, well-oxygenated air. You feel you can breathe more easily here.

Portland attracts a diverse population, many of whom have been drawn by a creative and freewilled buzz. They haven’t chosen Portland just for the outdoors, and certainly not for the weather, rather some of the country’s more-free spirited and liberal views. This is the “wild-west” and the place to be when pushing boundaries and exploring new ways to work, live and play. The same can be applied to the beverage producers here; not bound by centuries-old rules; this is the perfect place to create and develop their style, and along the way, produce another American classic.

In the beverage world, Oregon fame is not new, world-class craft beers have been brewed here for decades and the Willamette Valley (one hour south of Portland) produces Pinot Noir to rival Burgundy. Dig a little deeper, and you’ll find a vibrant scene of artists painting a broader canvas not restricted by old-world winemaking laws or resting on the laurels of dripping IPA gold medals in shows across the world. Distilling is laying claim to this pioneering spirit – time to meet American Single Malt Whiskey and Portland’s leading light, Westward Whiskey.

Westward Whiskey, which is owned by House Spirits, has become the largest independent distiller of American Single Malt, a style which has developed a strong following locally and recently released here in Australia with Barranows Emporium. The rules, currently unofficially regulated, are that it is made from 100% malted barley, produced at a single distillery, matured in oak barrels and bottled to 40% ABV.

Miles Munroe, Lead Distiller at Westward describes American Single Malt as: “A hybrid of styles, in a way, that it covers a lot of people’s tastes. Our whiskey is made as a scotch, and aged as a bourbon”. “We have always been an innovative distillery,” continued Munroe, “we approach whiskey with the idea that there are still new ways to innovate. There are still ways to take this old-established spirit in a new direction.”

“Any good single malt is a beer first, essentially,” explains Munroe, “so for me that meant I became a brewer first, studying fermentation, studying the aspects of brewing and studying fermentation. I

Miles Munroe, Lead Distiller at Westward, describes American Single Malt as: “A hybrid of styles, in a way, that it covers a lot of people’s tastes. Our whiskey is made as a scotch, and aged as a bourbon”.

essentially make as close to a craft beer before turning it into a whiskey.”

Just one of the ways Munroe innovates is through the yeast, “the particular-kind of ale yeast we use has robust fruits, honey and floral characteristics that comes forward during fermentation, explains Munroe.

Munroe was recently inspired to incorporate stout beer into a cask finish, which he felt would pair well with Westward’s signature characteristics, resulting in a fouryear aged Westward resting for eight months in an Imperial Stout barrel that, having sold out rather quickly, will re-launch in 2020 here in Australia.

Munroe felt that collaborating with other Portland distillers was an essential part of Westward’s growth story, with the company helping to forge a strong business support network there, along similar lines to the collegiate approach found in Tasmania’s whisky industry, led by pioneers such as Bill and Lyn Lark of Lark Distillery.

“Westward has been around since 2004, so we started a collective with other distillers as they popped up around us,” Munroe says. “It has officially become a group, and we still meet once a month, and we continue to add new members”.

“In the States, this is unique to Portland, this culture of support that we give each other. There’s strength in numbers, and together we can do things such as share knowledge and push for new legislation.”

By working together, Munroe says, Portland’s distillers have also managed to gain more visibility, by collaborating on events such as whiskey festivals.

“It’s so fascinating to see what everyone here (Australia) is developing. The innovation aspect of new world distilling here in Australia matches perfectly with that Portland ethos.”

Munroe, an ex-brewer himself, revels in the opportunity to push the boundaries and explore new ways to showcase the raw ingredients that the region has in abundance. He focuses on the fermentation process and is rightfully proud of the base spirit (white dog) that is produced at Westward. He encapsulates plenty that is rebellious, and adventurous, about the liquid he creates, age statements, for example, have no place here. “We believe in maturity over age, the whiskey is ready when it’s ready”, explains Munroe.

The cut of the heads and tails, which seeks to keep only the purest “heart” of the distilled liquid, becomes broader as Munroe encourages the flavours he brings forward in the initial fermentation. Rather than distilling the characters out, Munroe uses them to integrate with the unique cask finishes with the help of some brewing mates and creates his defined style. This approach results in a well-integrated, balanced, flavoursome and above all – a unique quality whiskey.

The liquid has grabbed the attention of the judges, earning global recognition with gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, a 93-point/Excellent rating at the Ultimate Spirits Challenge and a 94-point rating from Wine Enthusiast.

House Spirits owner, Christian Krogstad, along with Munroe has chosen Australia and local distributor Barranows as its first launch market outside of the States because in Munroe’s words; “there’s an excellent single malt culture and a great appreciation for whisk(e)y in general here in Australia”.

Barranows Emporium, an independent, premium spirits distributor in Australia, has added Westward to its portfolio after receiving “stellar feedback” during its initial trade previews at the Drinks Industry Show in June last year.

Westward Whiskey is now being served in cocktail and whiskey bars in Sydney, Melbourne, Tasmania and Perth, and is available at fine liquor stores and wholesalers nationally.

“We have always been an innovative distillery,” continued Munroe, “and we wanted to approach whiskey with the idea that there are still new ways to innovate. We didn’t want to make something that was too similar… too close to the whiskeys already in the market. There are still ways to take this old-established spirit in a new direction.”

TASTING NOTE:

Spiced vanilla, dark chocolate, tobacco and stone fruit; a nod to the hoppy nature of a typical Oregon ale.

Westward American Single Malt Whiskey RRP: $129.99