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The point; highly celebrated distillers from across the globe are innovating with carefully sourced materials matching flavour profiles and working to enhance your favourite drink every day. They don’t succeed all the time, but it’s a journey worth taking as you explore the word’s favourite dark spirit, and here at Explore WHISKY we are there to compliment your current travel arrangements.
Distilleries, people finishes
AshSlàinteeditor@explorewhisky.com
EMBRACING CHANGE
‘It’s a fantastic partner which pushes the boundaries of what people expect of Jura’s house style, while its pioneering nature is the perfect way to celebrate the exceptional community which our distillery sits at the heart of.’
Welcome to the pages of Australia’s very own whisky magazine. The passion behind this project began in 2012 with the release of our first book, also named Explore WHISKY, that was updated (twice) in 2013 and spawned a series of Explore books. They can be found and enjoyed www.exploredrinks.com.on
and new
It was just a matter of time before we returned to the dark spirit, and so we did in 2018 - as the book morphed into a magazine for the Australian whisky enthusiast. This is all about bringing the stories of whisky to Australians, focusing on whiskies we can enjoy, collect (and enjoy), visit, learn about and, hopefully, taste. Encouraged by a positive response, we now embark on bringing you Explore WHISKY 2019 and www.exploredrinks.com.
In this edition passionate whisky expert, and Leicester City fan, Dominic Roskrow comes onboard and gives us a whirlwind tour of his favourite whisky Island - Islay (page 40), the art of blending (page 30) as well as some insight on some lesser-known destinations such as Dutch Distillers, Zuidam (page 36). Roskrow and Australian based writer Ken Gargett give us two differing views on American Whisk(e)y in a feature spanning the pages between 98 and 120, no half measures here, and Sasha Falloon chooses some delicious whisky-based cocktails to sample this coming summer on page 120. Or any season. We’ve brought the stories of 35 distilleries to these pages, continuing our original format of telling the stories behind the brands that, in many cases, have gone on to become household names with adoring fans across the world. Others are starting their journey such as Sydney based distillery Archie Rose, known as a gin producer and only now beginning to release the always planned whisky portfolio. Expect some new and exciting examples of Australian whisky to come from this innovative distiller. Every day my feed seems to pop up with a new cask finished whisky. Just this week it’s been: Dewer’s rum cask finish “Caribbean Smooth”, Tomatin’s rum and sherry finished malts using Amontillado Sherry casks, Method and Madness’ Single Pot Irish Whiskey in cherry casks (not sherry) and Glenfiddich’s Grand Cru range - using French oak destined for base Champagne wine fermentation.
One that stood out was the launch of Jura Two-One-Two limited series, finished in Chinkapin. I had to look that one up, not being familiar with Chinkapin, which turns out to be a sub-species of white American oak that grows in areas of the north-east United States, including the Ozarks in GreggMissouri.Glass, the whisky maker at Jura, goes further and explains that: ‘Chinkapin is a wood that is rarely seen in the industry, but the impact it imparts on Jura’s light grassy spirit is worth the experiment.
To complete the travel agent metaphor, pack a bag - get your visa in order and let’s explore the world of whisky and hopefully collect some cool stuff along the way. This road is not to be travelled alone, and we would love to hear from you and encourage you to make contact;
2019 offers exciting whiskies from every corner of the planet WELCOME
6 exploredrinks.com 12&INSIGHTSTRENDS Insights, trends, news and new releases from the whisky world 128 Gifts 30FEATURES Blended Malt Whisky 36 New World Whisky 40 Digging Islay 72 Great Families of Whisky 98 American Whiskey 106 Whisky is in a golden age 26MEET Matt Moran 38 Ross Blainey - The Balvenie Brand Ambassador 130 Brent Griffin, Griffin Jerky 28DRINKS Doss House 52 Collectables and special releases 60 Johnnie Walker Blue LabelGhost & Rare Port Ellen 62 Game of Thrones® Single Malt Whisky 120 Whisky cocktails CONTENTS
exploredrinks.com CONTENTS7VISIT – DISTILLERY 18AUSTRALIAFOCUS Archie Rose Distilling Co. 46SCOTLAND Jura 48 Bruichladdich 50 Bunnahabhain 59 Port Ellen 76 Scotland's whisky trail 82 Mortlach 84 Aerstone 86 Ailsa Bay 87 BenRiach 88 The Balvenie 90 The Dalmore 91 GlenAllachie 92 Glenglassaugh 94 Glenfiddich 96 The Macallan 103AMERICABulleit Bourbon 104 George Dickel 115 Jack Daniel's 116 Westward 118 Westland
8 exploredrinks.com CREDITS
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The views expressed in explore DRINKS are of the respective contributors and are not necessarily those of the magazine or Hip Media. Copyright is held by Hip Media and reproduction in whole or in part, without prior consent, is not permitted. Other explore titles include: explore Rum explore Gin, Tequila & Vodka explore Beer explore Cider explore & Wine explore Cocktails To order your copy of explore visit: exploredrinks.com Hip Media was the winner of Small of the Year at of famedMoran,chef,restauranteur TurnwithhisexplorewithandpartnershipGlenfiddich.topage26.
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explore DRINKS is published by Hip Media Suite 3, 11 Railway Street Chatswood, NSW 2067 Ph: 02 9492 7999 wwwABN:hipmedia.com.au42126291914
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EDITORIAL Editor | Ashley Pini ashley@hipmedia.com.au Assistant Editor | Sasha sasha@hipmedia.com.auFalloon DESIGN Senior Designer | Racs Salcedo SALES I ADVERTISING National Sales Manager I Tim Ludlow tim@hipmedia.com.au ADMINISTRATION Accountant | Georgie Dawson PHOTOGRAPHY Ryan Stuart CONTRIBUTORS Dominic Roskrow Ken MichaelGargettThorburnRossBlainey DRINKS Drinks Curator | Quynh Nguyen SPONSORS
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monin.com TO ORDER OR FOR MORE INFORMATION: FREE CALL: 1800 225 417 FREE FAX: 1800 662 contactcentre@stalex.com.au312 www.stuartalexander.com.au MONIN® is distributed by Stuart Alexander & Co Pty Ltd. Level 3, 1 Smail Street, Ultimo, NSW 2007, AUSTRALIA. MONIN® is a
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SASHA FALLOON is a Sydney based drinks expert passionate about quality produce and drinks culture. She launched Drinks World magazine in Hong Kong in 2012, taking it to Singapore, Dubai and eventually back home to Australia. Sasha is the driving force behind the Top 25 Bartender Awards and Australia’s oldest bartending magazine - Barfly.
KEN GARGETT was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. A nontrendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. Convinced he is a grave disappointment to his family; his mother once chastised him for drinking Pol Champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now he mostly writes on wine and spirits plus a little on cigars, fishing, travel and food.
BEN CANAIDER writes about drinking and high culture, including wine, spirits, and beer and is also the author of six books on similar subjects. He is the drinks editor for GQ Australia and ALPHA and writes for The AGE, SMH Online, Restaurant & Catering Magazine, VirginBlue’s Voyeur Magazine and The Mumbai Trumpet.
MIKE THORBURN is from Edinburgh, Scotland and is the lead content editor for Brand Scotland. A self-proclaimed whisky enthusiast, When Mike isn’t ‘living the dream’ by writing about Scotland, you can probably find him sampling some of Scotland’s famous malt whiskies.
DOMINIC ROSKROW is an international spirits writer and magazine editor, having written 16 books and served as editor of Whisky Magazine, Pub Business, Club Mirror, and The Drinks Business, and as World Reviews editor for Morning Advocate. His work has appeared in National Geographic, The London Times and The Observer. In 2016 he was The Fortnum & Mason Drink Writer of the Year. He is a Keeper of The Quaich, for services to the Scotch whisky industry, a Kentucky Colonel, for services to the bourbon industry, and he has several Polynesian tattoos. In other words, he’s a cultural screw-up.
CONTRIBUTORS exploredrinks.com 11
CONTRIBUTORS
QUYNH NGUYEN ramen fiend and guitar hero, Quynh began bartending in Sydney's Bondi before making waves in Australia, Dubai and Singapore. Quynh is now a freelance consultant and has revamped the beverage programmes for major hotel groups, local venues, and is currently building his own project in Sydney’s CBD.
Celebrity and sport-stars’ wines and spirits. It seems everyone wants to get in on this. Needless to say, many are little more than a famous name thrown at a bottle to try and boost sales. Others, however, are genuine collaborative works. Metallica’s “Blackened” falls very much into that category. Originally created by the late Master Distiller, Dave Pickerill, working in conjunction with Metallica, “Blackened” is a blend of straight American Whiskeys. Of course, the usual PR blurbs assures us of the inspiration, etc. In this case, there is something to it. The band’s music has done more than influence the finished whiskey. The distilling team took “sonic-enhancement and turned it into BLACK NOISE™”, a process using “Metallica’s own music to shape the flavour” and contribute to the finish. I cannot pretend to have the slightest idea of the science behind it. Apparently, the liquid in the barrels “is bathed in low hertz sound waves so intense that it actually intensifies the molecular interaction and ultimately the finish”, a process they dubbed “BLACK NOISE™”. It is not intended to hasten the ageing process. Bass player, Robert Trujillo, says “It brings more life to the liquid, basically blasting Metallica into the wood. It’s the fingers on the fretboard, the groove of the drums, the low-end vibrations from the bass. I think of it as the mosh pit in the barrel.” The band brought in former Maker’s Mark distiller, Dave Pickerill, to help them create their whiskey, knowing they wanted a spirits icon. Sadly, Dave passed away recently. He has been replaced by Rob Dietrich, formerly from Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey. The band has sold around 120 million albums worldwide. Keen eyes will be watching to see if this new process can help them sell as many bottles.
METALLICA’S NEW DISTILLERMASTER ON-TREND WORDS KEN GARGETT
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TALISKER SHOWS IT’S DARK SIDE EDEN MILLS NEW DISTILLERY WORDS KEN GARGETT WORDS KEN GARGETT
• The distillery operates five stills; two wash stills and three spirit stills.
Revellers’ at this year’s Dark Mofo Festival in Hobart got to enjoy a uniquely Talisker twist on winter cocktail classics. The drink to catch our eye was the Spiced Hot Toddy - made with Talisker 10 Year Old, honey, lemon, mead and topped with gum leaves for a uniquely Australian twist. To finish this delicious drink off, it was paired with a tasty Tasmanian blue cheese jaffle and pickles. However, considering that Southern Tasmania’s brooding winters are reminiscent of Talisker’s distillery home on Scotland’s Isle of Skye, the most natural pairing on show was definitely Talisker and Bruny Island Oysters, a ‘ritual’ at this year’s festival, whereby tasters were able to enjoy the oyster and then pour a little of the whisky into the vacant shell. The sea-salty nose, sweet smoky character and peppery spice finish of Talisker cuts through the Oysters and briny seawater left in the shell.
• Talisker is the oldest Single Malts Scotch Whisky distillery made by the sea on the shores of the Isle of Skye
Eden Mill is making the first spirits in the region for 150 years. Their initial single malt, released in 2018, was sold at auction for a world record for a first release of £7,100.
• Talisker is distinctive. Its smell and taste instantly connect the drinker with the rugged environment – adored by many for its seasalty nose, peaty, sweet smoky character, and peppery finish.
The site was home to the Seggie distillery, which was run by the Haig family until 1860.
Described as having “one foot in the sea and the other on the land”, Talisker is an intense and powerful single malt with peated smoke that carries the salt from an island battered by wind and waves.
TRENDS exploredrinks.com 13
Surely this is all good reason for the local members at St Andrews to raise a glass.
Even better, Eden Mill is undergoing some serious renovations, with a new £3.1 million distillery to open next year. It is part of a longerterm £8m investment program. Production will expand from around 420,000 bottles to more than one million bottles. The new site is also working towards a zero-carbon footprint.
• All the stills use worm tubs (condensing coils) rather than a modern condenser, which are believed to give the whisky a “fuller” flavour.
Seriously, some students are lucky! A famous golf course and a brewery/distillery all within a long drive (of the golf ball).
SOME TALISKER FACTS
Talisker Whisky Ambassador, Katie Nagar said, “Tasmania really does provide the perfect backdrop to cosy up with a Talisker in hand; its craggy coastlines and wild rivers revel in the elements, encouraging you to reconnect to nature”.
• During this early period, the whisky was produced using a triple distilling method, but changed to the more conventional double distilling in 1928.
Mention St Andrews to almost anyone from the Western World and the immediate response will be golf – the world’s oldest and most famous golf club, the site of more British Opens than anywhere else. It is also home to the 3rd oldest English-speaking University in the world. Nearby is the Lowlands distillery, Eden Mill, Scotland’s first combined distillery and brewery.
The Heaven’s Door Distillery, opening in 2020 in an old church, will have a visitors’ centre, live performance area, bar and restaurant. And presumably a very special soundtrack.
Apparently, Dylan has failed to show at the launches. Hey, if you don’t turn up to collect your Nobel, what chance a launch, even if it is your own product?
BOB DYLAN’S BOURBON PROJECT WORDS KEN GARGETT
14 exploredrinks.com These days, you cannot be called a legitimate celebrity if you do not have a wine or a spirit under your name. Seems everyone from famous stars to wannabee C-listers has a wine – Brangelina, Mike Ditka, Gerard Depardieu, Greg Norman, Mario Andretti, Antonio Banderas, Ernie Els, Sting, Mick Fleetwood, Madonna, Joe Montana, even Donald Trump and dozens more (to be honest, I googled this and there are an awful lot of names who are apparently celebrities, or believe they are, though I must confess I’d never heard of many of them). Some, like Cliff Richard, Sam Neill and Francis Ford Coppola, at least seem serious about their projects. Spirits, much the same. Some set up businesses. Others buy them and some, like Matthew McConaughey (Wild Turkey Longbranch Whiskey) are reputedly paid very large sums for their involvement. Many examples – the Breaking Bad team of Bryan Cranston and Arron Paul have a new Mezcal. George Clooney’s Tequila, Dan Ackroyd’s Vodka, David Beckham’s Whisky, Ryan Reynold’s Gin, Marilyn Manson’s Absinthe (called ‘Mansinthe’, oh dear), Danny DeVito’s Limoncello, Ron Jeremy’s Ron de Jeremy, Willie Nelson’s Bourbon, both Robert de Niro and Bill Murray have Vodkas. Even AC/DC have a BobTequila.Dylan is, of course, not a celebrity. He is the voice of a generation, an inspiration, a legend, possibly the greatest songwriter to have set foot on this planet and a Nobel Prize winner. The man was standing next to Martin Luther King for the ‘I Have a Dream’ speech. Top that, Jay-Z. And now he has ‘Heaven’s Door’, offering a straight Bourbon, straight Rye and a Double Barrel Whiskey. To kick off, they have sourced quality aged material, distilled by Heaven Hill.
There will also be a 25-Year-Old offering, aged in Japanese Mizunara casks. The appraisals are very positive, though the reviewer who referred to His Bobness as a ‘country warbler’ has certainly doomed himself never to knock, knock, knock on that door; so too the one who described Heaven’s Door as a Guns n’ Roses’ hit written by Dylan. The shame… The ignorance…
NEWWOLFBURNDISTILLERY
Glorious days for malt lovers. New names, old distilleries revived, ghosts resurrected, exciting new whiskies and old favourites reemerging. So much happening.
Wolfburn might not be the most well-known distillery in Scotland, but its revival is an exciting development and it has not taken long for the results to show. It has quickly become a favourite of experts, such as Dave Broom and Jim Murray. Wolfburn is pushing the envelope in a number of ways. Their Batch 128 has been matured in small 100-litre first-fill Bourbon casks, for example. Quantities across the board are inevitably small, but this is a name worth chasing.
Almost two hundred years ago, the original Wolfburn Distillery was established, taking its name from the stream providing its water, the Wolf Burn. It quickly became one of Scotland’s largest, but by 1870, it was all over and within a few years, the place was in ruins. Literally. Plans to rebuild the old distillery were made in 2011; construction began the next year and in 2013, production of whisky at the new distillery commenced. The new Wolfburn Distillery is the most northerly distillery on the Scottish mainland, only a few hundred yards from the site of its predecessor. It has taken no time at all for the new Wolfburn Distillery to start piling up the awards and trophies, the latest for their Langskip Single Malt (A$150), which won the coveted ‘Best in Show’ award, and a double gold medal, at the Singapore World Spirits Competition. In Tokyo, they recently won the title of ‘Best Scotch Craft Distillery in the World’, although one assumes that entrants were limited to distilleries from Scotland, rather than ‘the World’?
TRENDS exploredrinks.com 15
WORDS KEN GARGETT
“I wanted to bring customers fresh and exciting ways to enjoy whisky. Copper Dog started at the Craigellachie Hotel, but we always aspired to share our Scottish whisky and blend globally” says Piers Adam.
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In 18th century Scotland, distillery workers would help themselves to a dram of whisky using a copper vessel tube known as the Copper Dog. Likely made by the coppersmiths tending to the stills, the Copper Dog was a copper tube soldered at one end with a penny, and a cork with a chain attached at the other. With nobody looking, the Copper Dog would be dipped into a whisky cask, filled and quickly deposited back into their trousers without anyone catching a glimpse. It was the best friend that never left a worker’s side. In honour of this clever trick of the trade, Copper Dog blended malt whisky was founded and created in 2016 at the Craigellachie Hotel in the heart of Speyside whisky country by proprietor and London bar and club entrepreneur, Piers Adam. Inspired by the pub’s rich history, Adam wanted to bring to life a house blend that celebrated the Speyside region. The result is a blend of eight quality Speyside malt whiskies with a fruity flavour profile and a touch of spice brought together by master blender Stuart Morrison. The whiskies chosen for the blend are a mixture of refill American and European oak casks, first fill Bourbon casks and rejuvenated casks before the final blend is finished in Hogshead casks.
COPPER DOG A
LOYALWORKERS’FRIEND WORDS KEN GARGETT
Like the workers who used to sneak a cheeky dram whilst on the job, Copper Dog embodies this cheeky and mischievious spirit. This is a Speyside whisky that doesn’t take itself too seriously. It is made to be enjoyed any time and any way just like the wee dram savoured from the copper lip of the Copper Dog of times past.
The Copper Dog palate profile is a nod to the signature whisky style of Speyside. It is light and fruity with characters of crisp green apple, orange rind, vanilla and aromatic spice with an ABV of Copper40%.Dog’s fresh and light style makes for the perfect mixer such as with freshly juiced Granny Smith apples to create the Apple Dog or to create innovative whisky cocktails such as Copper Dog Old Fashioned with Angostura Bitters, Monin sugar syrup and a slice of orange. It is also an ideal whisky for those new to the whisky experience. The Copper Dog is an easy style ideal for toe dipping into the world of Scotch whisky. Copper Dog is an ideal whisky for those dipping into the world of Scotch whisky – it is approachable enough to drink neat or on the rocks, yet versatile to mix well in cocktails.
Copper Dog joins Diageo’s extensive and eclectic portfolio or Scotch whiskies in Australia.
But William Lavelle, head of the Irish Whiskey Association, has defended the Association’s role in securing a Geographical Indication (GI) and the Technical File protecting the legal status of the category.
In particular, they point to archaic British laws which forbid distillers from bringing in wash distiller’s beer from outside the distillery, and the definition of the grain make up of a pot still whiskey which limits the use of other grains apart from barley to just five per cent of the mash bill. That, they say, is not in keeping with many traditional and historical mash bill recipes. And they allege that the rules are designed to reflect the recipes that biggest producer Irish Distillers uses for its current pot still whiskeys.
There is a growing row between ‘established whiskey’ producers and small fledgeling producers backed by whiskey experts and historians. The new distillers are keen to explore new and exciting taste profiles for Irish whiskey, and often they have turned back to longforgotten whiskey recipes to do so. They argue that definitions by the Irish Whiskey Association, are too narrow and in danger of restricting them from making flavoursome traditional Irish whiskey styles. They say the definition of Irish pot still whiskey, is inaccurate, and restrictive.
TRENDS exploredrinks.com 17 Ireland’s reinvigorated and rapidly growing whiskey industry is enjoying worldwide success at the moment - but could storm clouds be gathering on the horizon? For there are dark mutterings from some of the new producers about the way Irish whiskey is being defined by The Irish Whiskey Association, which they argue is biased towards the large Irish whiskey companies and in particular Irish Distillers, owned by Pernod-Ricard. Until now Irish Distillers have enjoyed a harmonious relationship with the new distillers, most of whom seem happy to work to the definitions, which were introduced to earn legal protection from the European Pernod-RicardUnion.has opened a training centre at its Midleton Distillery, and offers advice and help to new distillers, taking the view that all Irish distillers can benefit in the overall standard if the cate-gory is kept high.
“There have been a number of very important moments that have shaped the future of Irish whiskey, and securing the GI from the European Union in 2014 was one of those key “Definingmoments.Irish whiskey and its main styles was a difficult process, as a broad catch all definition for any of the distinctive whiskeys would weaken the claim for the GI.“It is noted that well over half of the 24 currently operational Irish whiskey distilleries are producing pot still Irish whiskey in line with the GI Technical File. “The Technical File also allows for significant innovation in the production of Irish whiskey. This is leading to an exciting diversity of new products and expressions across the broader Irish whiskey category.”
WORDS DOMINIC ROSKROW
WHISKYATWAR
cask samples have already been awarded Best Australian Whisky at the coveted IWSC Awards in London 2018 and Best Australian Rye Whisky at the consumervoted 2019 Spirits International Prestige (SIP) Awards in California.
The creation of this first special release whisky led Archie Rose’s earliest explorations into heavily roasted malts, an important step in its journey towards embracing the more challenging, lower yielding, but far more flavourful world of roasted malts, and showcasing one of the key insights into how its Rye Malt Whisky came to be.
A MALTED WHISKY THAT IS 100 PER CENT SYDNEY
This year is particularly exciting for the distillery. After five years in production, Archie Rose is releasing its very first whiskies.
The first release in June was 1,148 bottles of the extremely limited-edition Archie Rose Chocolate Rye Malt Whisky, the only one of its kind in Australia under the Archie Rose Concepts label, reserved for the rarest and most interesting spirits. Selling out in under two hours it was made with chocolate rye, rye malt and barley malt yielding flavours of caraway, mint, shortbread, violets, hot chocolate and fruit jams.
This first core range Rye Malt Whisky finally launched August 1, 2019, followed by additional staggered releases rolling out from September 1 through until the end of the year with the first three batches marked with a unique 1st, 2nd, 3rd batch mark and individually numbered. The ‘1st Batch’ Archie Rose website allocation sold out in under 30 minutes with the ‘2nd Batch’ available just in time for Father’s Day on September 1 followed by ‘3rd Batch’ release later in the Work-in-progressyear.
Archie Rose Distilling Co. has become Sydney’s local spirits champion. Since its beginnings in 2014 in a distillery set up in Rosebery, five kilometres from the city, Archie Rose has given us world-class gins, rums, vodkas and spirits experiences as well as sellout limited editions and one-off collaborations worth looking out for. It can now proudly claim to be Australia’s most highly awarded distillery.
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This whisky uses rare malted rye and the finest malted barley from progressive malt houses, paired with virgin American oak casks air-dried for 36-months. It showcases Archie Rose’s commitment to malt and their approach to working with rye, a more complicated malt to process than barley. The whisky is then left to mature in the maritime air of coastal Sydney. The result is layered and aromatic with notes of spiced custard, ginger, stone fruit and baked apple pie with a fresh herbal finish that lingers on the “Ourpalate.vision for whisky has always been to speak of our experience as Australians, utilise the incredible raw materials available to us, and strive for genuine innovation in what is typically an extremely traditional industry” says Archie Rose founder, Will “We’veEdwards.spent an enormous amount of time in research and development, looking at how we can create a rich and engaging, complex yet approachable whisky, and we believe we’ve made something really special,” says GetEdwards.down to Archie Rose and get your malt on, drink it neat, on the rocks or in a cocktail, but make sure you savour the original taste of malt grown and matured for its unique characters in the Australian climate.
exploredrinks.com 19 VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
Whisky enthusiasts seeking out rare quality whisky are being warned to beware, after a surge in the market of fake whisky and forged bottles. And the industry is stepping up its efforts to beat the forgers by turning to new technology.
“That’s clearly just three Japanese distilleries compared to over 100 Scotch distilleries,” says Rare 101’s Andy Simpson. “But the average ‘per-bottle’ value for Scotch is £361.65, but for Japanese, it’s £1458.20. We’ve recently seen fake Hanyu and fake Kawasaki (grain).
“Weaccuracy.callthis
“We were talking to an auctioneer only recently about some fake Kawasaki bottles. Part of the issue is that closures/capsules can be relatively easy to replicate, so we think the main issue is genuine bottles being refilled and reclosed rather than larger-scale forgery, although that could very easily change. Fortunately, if the consumer does their research, the colour of the liquid has been a big giveaway for existing fakes, so a simple ‘Google’ of a bottle has revealed discrepancies and bottles can be avoided.
The latest weapon in the industry’s armoury could be an artificial ‘tongue’ which can taste subtle differences between whiskies. They have built a tiny taster which can pick up on the subtler distinctions between the same whisky aged in different barrels. It can also tell the difference between whiskies aged for 12, 15 and 18 Engineersyears.say the tongue ‘tasted’ the differences with greater than 99 per cent an artificial tongue because it acts similarly to a human tongue,” says Alasdair Clark, of the University of Glasgow’s school of engineering. “Like us, it can’t identify the individual chemicals which make coffee taste different to apple juice, but it can easily tell the difference between these complex chemical mixtures. “We’re not the first researchers to make an artificial tongue, but we’re the first to make a single artificial tongue that uses two different types of nanoscale metal ‘tastebuds’, which provides more information about the ‘taste’ of each sample and allows a faster and more accurate response.” This isn’t the first attempt to beat the forgers with technology, but as the secondary and auction markets have grown, the problem has become more extensive. And it’s not just collectable whisky that is being targeted. It is claimed that as much as 25 per cent of licensed premises in some parts of Great Britain had counterfeit alcohol for sale, and the problem is global. In China approximately 25 per cent of the imported alcoholic drinks are counterfeits.
“With values being so high for certain bottles, as for Scotch, we only see the issue of fakes getting worse and their proliferation increasing.”
BEWARE OF FAKES
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WORDS DOMINIC ROSKROW
“Alcoholic drinks are a popular target for fraud, and which can constitute a real threat for health since illegal productions of alcohol can contain harmful pollutions, for instance methanol”, says professor Tony Bagnall of The University of East Anglia, who is heading a project to perfect a none-intrusive test.
Scotch either. In America empty bottles from the likes of Van Winkle have been sold on eBay, and earlier this year a man admitted selling counterfeit rare bourbon Japanesebottles.whisky, with its high values, is an obvious target for fraudsters. In the first six months of 2019 about 2,200 bottles of Hanyu, Karuizawa and Yamazaki sold at auction in the United Kingdom. In comparison, there have been 71,544 bottles of single malt Scotch whisky.
It’smarket.”notjust
Andy Simpson, of investment consultants Rare 101, says that caution must be exercised. “We do not recommend the purchase of spirits from the turn of the 20th century or earlier periods unless they underwent carbon dating. One of the ways to falsify is filling empty bottles, and sometimes it is so easy that we have a list of spirits which should not be purchased. One of them is Ardbeg Very Young. The purchase of whisky from respected auction houses, directly or online, is the best way to avoid counterfeits because the majority want to protect their reputation and get rid of false bottles from the
The Liberties district is humming again and at its heart is the reimagined Roe & Co located in the former Guinness Power Station, a grand and iconic 1940s Art Deco-inspired building that powered the brewery up until the 1990s.
Only the finest stocks of Irish malt and grain whiskies, aged in bourbon casks contribute to the Roe & Co. blend. The signature style represents the very best of the characters that make Irish whiskey distinctive but with exceptional smoothness and a depth of flavour unique to Roe & Co. The harmony of intense fruit of the malt balanced with the mellow creaminess of the grain whiskey, makes Roe & Co. a contemporary and premium Irish whiskey.
The contemporary Roe & Co distillery and visitor centre will immerse its guests in an Irish whiskey experience that is interactive and educational. Visitors will learn of the rise and fall and rise again of Irish whiskey and the famous Golden Triangle of streets where the distilleries of The Liberties are located. Lovers of Irish whiskey can enjoy and discuss the characters and nuances of the modern Roe & Co. whiskey in the Flavour Room or sit back and savour on one of the distillery’s signature creations in the Powerhouse Bar.
The modern Roe & Co. whiskey was developed in collaboration with a carefully curated group of Ireland’s top bartenders who, together with Roe & Co. Master Blender Caroline Martin, created a unique blended whiskey with cocktails in mind.
TRENDS exploredrinks.com 21
THE REBIRTH OF ROE & CO.
Opened in June 2019, the working distillery and visitor centre is just a stone’s throw away from where the original distillery stood. It was one of Irish whiskey’s biggest names and it is part of an Irish whiskey renaissance that is seeing one of the world’s first whiskies enjoyed by a new generation.
In 18th and 19th century Dublin, The Liberties was the epicentre of Ireland’s brewing and distilling industry. The Liberties quarter boasted the world’s largest brewery, Guinness and the world’s largest distillery, George Roe & Sons. The distillery extended over 17 acres on Thomas Street in Dublin and was Ireland’s largest exporter of Irish whiskey until hard times hit forcing its closure in 1926. All that remains on that site today is the distillery’s windmill tower and a pear tree that flowers every season. Across from the windmill and the pear tree is the world famous St. James’s Gate Guinness Brewery. It stands as a reminder of the prominance of George Roe’s distillery in its heyday and was the inspiration behind the new distillery and whisky rebirthed in his honour.
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The Roe & Co distillery will produce 14,000 litres of whiskey in every run, with an annual capacity of approximately 500,000 litres.
Roe & Co has been established since 2017 and is paying tribute to the iconic George Roe & Sons brand that led Irish Whiskey many years ago.
– baby mouse wine, three penis rice wine (the wedding tackle of a deer, a dog and a seal are fermented together – it must be awful, Parker only gave it 95: I jest, of course, he gave it 98), snake wine and more.
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Apparently, it is claimed to be an aphrodisiac.
The spirits array is even more exotic. An example - Vietnamese cobra whisky (and termites and geckos). There is even a procedure that lets one ‘vap’ a whisky these days – I have no idea if that is good or bad.
SUCHANDWHISKYSCORPIONOTHERJOYS
DOMINIC ROSKROW
Many years ago, on a trip through the centre of Africa, a few friends and I found ourselves at a wake in a village in the jungle in Cameroon –long story. The evening was almost over when they brought out a small bottle of something they called ‘African Hots’. We were never told what it was made from, but I swear I still have the internal scars. The only thing I have ever had to match it was a scorpion whisky from Taiwan (occasionally, mezcal in Mexico has a scorpion instead of a worm but I’ve ducked them so Creatingfar).weird drinks from local ingredients, the vast majority of which were never intended for distillation or even consumption, is yet one more of humanity’s foibles. There are plenty of examples with wine, though Lord knows why
One suspects that it is as effective as any other such claim. You can even buy it on the internet at $15 for 500mls. As yet, no reviews. Perhaps no one survived to describe it.
They claim that the centipede, which will be at least a foot long, has been “de-toxified” in order to make consumption safe (I don’t care if it has been drowned in d’Yquem – I want no part of it).
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Our grand prize goes to Thai Giant Centipede Whiskey. “Triple distilled”, it is regularly bottled on a farm/distillery in the north-east of the country, though details are sketchy on whether they are bred and harvested there, or they just happen to get caught (one assumes the former as the idea of living where there are enough giant centipedes to enable the creation of an industry such as this simply boggles the mind).
Why would anyone want to drink this?
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Previously, in explore WHISKY, we reported on the 2010 collapse of four warehouses at the Glenfiddich Distillery. Seems that tragedies of this nature have made their way across the pond. Just over a year ago, thousands of bourbon barrels collapsed at the Barton ‘1792’ distillery in Bardstown and around 120,000 gallons ended up in two retention ponds, which were constructed after a previous collapse, killing around 800 fish. Then came the collapse of a warehouse in Owensboro, Kentucky at O.Z. Tyler Distillery, with some 4,000 barrels toppling during heavy storms. And now, a fire in a warehouse at Jim Beam has destroyed 45,000 barrels – more than 6 million bottles worth! You can imagine the task facing the forty firefighters as all that alcohol fueled the blaze. Local lightning is believed to be the Enoughcause.tosend a bourbon-lover to his favourite bottle, but before anyone declares this the coming of the Four Horsemen, Beam Suntory spokespeople have noted that they have 126 warehouses in Kentucky holding approximately 3.3 million barrels for their brands. The whiskey which was destroyed was young and there should be no interruption to supply. Glenfiddich managed to release their legendary Snow Phoenix whiskey from the rubble. Perhaps we will see a similar bourbon?
RECENT COLLAPSEWAREHOUSEBOURBONHUGE TRENDS exploredrinks.com 23
Thomas Jefferson had always opposed the Whiskey Tax and, when elected President a few years later, he repealed it. It was back to import tariffs. It is believed that this incident hastened the development of political parties in America, possibly not something to which we should raise a glass, these days.
24 exploredrinks.com Aussies are proud of our Rum Rebellion which took place in the early 1800s, the only successful armed takeover of government in our history. In America, they have their Boston Tea Party, but historians will be aware that they had their own spirits uprising, the Whiskey Rebellion which kicked off in 1791. Its genesis was the refusal by farmers from the 11 states, which then formed the United States, to pay taxes on the capacity of alcoholic stills. It ended with a march of 13,000 militiamen. The taxes were worded to be particularly harsh on small farmers. These were also the first taxes in the country levied domestically (import tariffs being the source of government funds till then), which was a shock, especially as local whiskey was extremely popular at the time. Distilling grain was important to these farmers as distances made this more economical than transporting it to markets. Also, whiskey was often used as currency in those early days. Farmers in Pennsylvania refused to pay, organised a resistance and even tarred and feathered several tax collectors. Governments always take that sort of thing well. Eventually, the rebels set fire to the house of the tax supervisor. One of the rebel leaders was killed in a small battle when he was allegedly lured into the open by a white flag waved by collectors, and then shot. It led to calls to march on Pittsburgh (known to the farmers as ‘Sodom’), praise for the French Revolution and demands for independence from the new United States, and alliances with the French and/or British. Which all came to nought.
The tax was also supposed to apply in Kentucky, but there it was largely ignored and no one was inclined to earn the wrath of locals by attempting to collect it. So, the Whiskey Rebellion in Pennsylvania was all a bit of a fizzle. Almost.
George Washington, who had a large distillery of his own at Mount Vernon, was having none of it and called out the militia. All 13,000 of them, a massive force in those days. This was the first and only time a sitting American president has led troops in the field. Faced with such overwhelming odds, the protestors basically disappeared into the forests and mountains. The rebellion was over without a further shot fired, greatly enhancing the President’s reputation. Two rebels were convicted for treason, but later pardoned by Washington.
HISTORICAL
THE WHISKY REBELLION IN THE USA WORDS KEN GARGETT
There has always been a trade off between the accountants who want to see a return on a company’s investment at the earliest opportunity, and would undoubtedly embrace science that sped up the whisky making process, and the whisky makers, who argue that you can’t rush nature in its creation of fine malt. By and large there has been a balance between the two sides. There have been attempts to tip it: casks wrapped in cellophane to reduce the amount of spirit lost to the environment; pressure forcing whisky spirit in the cask to accelerate maturation; even wood and various spices dipped in to grain neutral spirit to make a whisky in days not years. Overall, though, they have all failed.
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“Whiskeys owe their flavour, aroma, and mouthfeel to hundreds, sometimes thousands, of molecules that develop during distillation and barrel ageing,” says the company, which makes ‘provocative spirits for curious minds’.
“We source these molecules directly from plants and yeasts. By using the same building blocks as conventional distillers, we create fine spirits through a process we’ve developed called note-by-note production. Our process is different, but our commitment to quality rivals the best in the business. Each component is meticulously tested for purity.
It’s a bit of both of course. A science, because a good whisky is a piece of molecular engineering in a glass, its complicated atomic structure contributing flavours and structures through a series of chemical reactions at the fermentation, distillation and maturation stages.
An art because no scientist can control what happens in the cask, as the miracle or black magic of maturation and interaction between wood and spirit ensures that no two casks mature in the same way, even if the casks are from the same source, are filled with the same spirit and at the same time, and are matured for the same spell when side by side in the warehouse.
Glyph is a ‘whiskey’ created overnight in a laboratory in California’s Silicon Valley. Its owners Endless West claim that they have been able to recreate the complex molecular structures of whiskey in hours.
Billy Abbott, who sources and tastes whiskies for London based online retailer The Whisky Exchange is ambivalent.
Is whisky a science or an art?
So what does it all mean? If you’re reading this, chances are that words such as ‘science’, ‘technology’ and ‘robot’ are as welcome as a redback in your bedsheets.
Far better is art for art’s sake, surely?
Glyph is biochemically equivalent to the finest aged Soundswhiskies.”awful,doesn’t it? But is it?
The questions are, though, one, for how long? And two, has the world of whisky just created its first Frankenstein monster?
“It’s a very good attempt, but it’s not quite there yet,” he says. “The core flavour isn’t right. You can tell this is based on neutral spirit. It’s just a flavoured vodka. However, it’s a lot better than I expected.”
SCIENCE OR ART? WHISKY WORDS DOMINIC ROSKROW
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MM: It’s been FUN! Have you seen the Whisky Wanderer? It’s pretty amazing.
MM: Haha, that’s the question I seem to get asked most these days! Never say never, I suppose. I have some big plans over the next twelve months or so and some of them will be announced soon. You’ll just have to watch this space.
Ashley Pini: There’s never a dull moment in the busy (public) life of Matt Moran. What drove your interest in being involved with whisky and Glenfiddich?
With a young, lighter whisky I recommend a complex, dry salami. The spice, fattiness and salt will balance the whisky nicely.
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MM: While I like to mix things up (we chefs rarely keep still) whisky is often my go-to drink. I really love entertaining at home, and quite often I’ll have mates over to share some whisky and a light bite to eat. Whisky pairs so beautifully with produce and sometimes different ingredients can open up a subtle flavour you haven’t tasted before.
Traditional hard cheeses also work well as the waxy notes often leave behind a fruitiness on the palate. Crunchy sourdough, smoky salmon, orange, chocolate, roast almonds. I could go on. Lots of ingredients pair nicely with whisky.
AP: You’ve been a great advocate for helping people learn more about where their food comes from. How important is it to you to understand the way that whisky is made?
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AP: I have to ask; what’s next for Matt Moran? Perhaps a return to the show you guest judged in 2013? Or are you busy enough?
Matt Moran: I have always loved and collected whisky, so it felt like such a genuine fit. We have a great partnership, and I’ve learnt a lot about the distilling process, which has been fascinating. I like that they push boundaries and think outside the box. I’m excited to see what comes next, and of course, the opportunity to learn more about their wonderful whisky doesn’t hurt either.
MM: I think by nature, chefs are a curious bunch. We’ll always want to know where our produce comes from and how something is grown, raised, harvested and the like. This isn’t just isolated to food; the curiosity extends to drinks as well. As with all production, the quality of the raw material and the process, all affect the outcome.
UNVEILING MATT MORAN’S APPRECIATION FOR WHISKY
One of the biggest names in Australian cooking, Matt Moran of Chiswick, Aria and Barangaroo House (to name just three), recently partnered with Glenfiddich to explore his taste and passion for Scotland’s national drink. Ashley Pini caught up with the famed chef, restauranteur and farmer to ask what attracted him to the project and what’s next in the busy life of Matt Moran.
AP: What has the experience been like working with Glenfiddich and getting to share the possibilities and innovation in whisky with the public?
AP: How personal is whisky to you? Is there a time you fell in love with whisky?
If only the walls could talk at The Doss House because they would tell a fascinating story. Formally a bootery, boarding house, doctors and opium den, the space is now home to The Doss House a premium whisky bar in The Rocks. Located in a heritage-listed building on George Street, the underground bar is everything you would envision a whisky bar would entail. Exposed ceiling beams, sandstone walls, a cosy fireplace and large chesterfields to unwind in. There is also an outside courtyard to enjoy during the warmer months.
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On the drinks menu there are over 100 whiskies to select from. The menu is easy to navigate featuring whiskies under their place of origin. Not limited to just whisky, you’ll be able to find your tipple of choice with a vast range of beers, wines and cocktails.
On the food front, the menu is concise but works for this style of venue. Offering charcuteries boards, ploughman’s lunch and gourmet sandwiches. There is something on the menu for everyone, where you’ll find the perfect accompaniment to match your choice of tipple. 77-79 George Street, The Rocks NSW 2000 T: 0457 880 180 E: Sunday:FridayTuesdayMonday:Openinginfo@thedosshouse.com.auHours:Closed-Thursday:4pm-1am-Saturday:4pm-2am4pm-12am
THE DOSS HOUSE
ONE OF THE FIVE INTIMATE ROOMS FEATURES AN OPIUM PIPE WHICH IS BELIEVED TO BE AN ORIGINAL FROM THE 1800S WHEN TIN WAR & CO CHINESE MERCHANTS OCCUPIED THE SPACE. THE ROYAL COMMISSION QUESTIONED JASPER UNG QUOY BUSINESS MANAGER OF THE COMPANY ON GAMBLING WITHIN THE PREMISES. MR UNG QUOY DENIED ALL CLAIMS. IT WAS LATER DISCOVERED TIN WAR & CO. SOLD OPIUM FROM THE PREMISES, WHICH WAS KNOWN AS ‘THE DEN’.
exploredrinks.comDRINKS29The Den, The Doss House
But the style was revived after the turn of the new Millennium, and it came to the attention of the greater public when a massive row broke out between drinks giants Diageo and William Grant & Sons. It was over Cardhu, and the decision by Diageo to mix the distillery’s whisky with that of two other distilleries, and to market the new whisky as Cardhu Pure malt. William Grant & Sons was furious, and employed an international public relations guy to unleash hell. The row marked one of the few times when Scotch whisky made international headlines.
The end result was a truce and a series of Scotch Whisky Association edicts which included ending the use of the term ‘vatted’, the outlawing of the term ‘pure’, and the introduction of the term ‘blended malt.’
30 exploredrinks.com Blended whisky. Blended malt whisky. Spot the difference. ‘Malt’ might only have four letters, but in this context, it’s a mighty powerful word. It separates two entirely different drinks categories; it prompted a war of words which created international headlines; and it has unlocked a door to a whole new generation of whisky drinkers, who are predominantly young, predominantly trendy and hip, and are increasingly female. The word ‘malt’ in this context has done that. I know. Let me explain… Whisky comes in many shapes, but at the heart of the spirit is Scotland, and Scotland produces four distinct styles: single malt, grain, blended and blended malt. Let’s kick a couple of misconceptions in to touch right away. Firstly, single malt is not necessarily superior to the other whisky styles. And two, Scotland doesn’t have a monopoly on the world’s best whisky. Far from it. Single malt is a whisky made from malted barley, yeast and water. The word ‘single’ refers to the fact that all the malt comes from one distillery, but it does not mean it all comes from one cask. A single malt is a mixture of whiskies from different casks, of different ages, of different sizes, and whose previous contents vary one from to the next. Every single malt is a mixture of different casks so in this sense it is made in the same way as the other categories of whisky. A grain whisky is a whisky made from another grain other than barley. It is made in a different way to single malt. In future issues we’ll look closer at these differences, but suffice to say, grain whisky can be produced in greater volumes than single malt, but its flavour is less distinctive and more taste neutral. When single malts from different distilleries are mixed with grain whisky, a blended whisky is created. Just like single malt, a blend may be a carefully crafted balance of different cask types. This requires just as much skill as the craft required for a single malt, and at their best, premium blended whiskies are a sophisticated orchestra of flavours. Which leaves blended malt whisky. A blended malt whisky is a mixture of single malt whiskies from different distilleries, but with no grain whisky in the mix. There is nothing new about this category - once known as vatted malts, it was a style used by the original grocers when creating their whisky recipes.
The category was already attracting attention from a new generation of whisky drinkers.
Some time before, David Robertson, former master distiller at Macallan and now the founder and managing director of investment Blended malt whiskies are a category in their own right. But if there is a difference to blended whiskies, what are they? Dominic Roskrow explains.
MALT WHISKY Blended
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The idea was to demystify whisky but the company was ahead of its time. Extensive tasting events across the United Kingdom unveiled some interesting facts (the highest share of female vote went to the Smoky, Peaty One - at a time when ‘ladies preferred sweet Lowland whiskies’).
The problem here was that regular whisky drinkers were already married to brands within a whisky style, and men in particular weren’t ready to trade their Ardbeg or Laphroaig for something called The Smoky Peaty One.
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consultants Rare 101, had teamed up with two friends to launch The Easy Drinking Whisky Company, and its three blended malt whiskies under the name Dave, Mark & Robbo.
What set the whiskies apart was the fact that the image of each was refreshingly young and irreverent. The standard masculine and text heavy single malt whisky label was replaced with a colourful cartoon design. The contents did not reference a distillery, but were promoted by taste - The Smoky Peaty One, The Rich Spicy One, and The Smooth, Sweeter One.
LOT OF PATIENCE. LEADING OUR SMALL TEAM OF 12 WHISKY EXPERTS WE PUT THESE THREE PILLARS AT THE HEART OF EVERYTHING WE DO,” SAID JIM BEVERAGE, MASTER BLENDER – JOHNNIE WALKER “ALL THE TEAM ARE NATURAL EXPERIMENTERS. WE’RE ALWAYS QUESTIONING THINGS AND CHALLENGING OURSELVES TO FIND NEW FLAVOURS BY USING OUR EXPERTISE AND OUR INTUITION TO EXPLORE WHAT’S POSSIBLE WITH FLAVOUR IN THE SAME WAY AS THOSE SIX GENERATIONS OF MASTER BLENDER WHO HAVE STOOD IN MY SHOES.”
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The whisky, a mix of the three distilleries William Grant owned - Glenfiddich, Balvenie and Kininvie - is a sweet and irresistible mix of apple and pear flavoured malt. And William Grant played on the monkey image, launching a highly modern marketing campaign embracing whisky cocktails when whisky cocktails barely existed. So successful was the campaign that cool city bars and magnets for 20 something years old single folk with disposable income applied for Monkey Bar status. Today blended malt whiskies have the potential to drive the whisky market. Copper Dog has joined Monkey Shoulder at the frontline, and targets Jack Daniel’s and coke drinkers, arguing that it is providing a stepping stone to the world of Scotch whisky. But it’s not just a Scottish phenomenon. Indeed, there is an opportunity for New World Whisky to steal a march on Scotland, by blending malts from different countries - something that the Scotch Whisky Association doesn’t allow. Australia and New Zealand have already done it with Digger & Ditch. Hybrid featured Irish whiskey from Cooley controversially mixed with malt from the Scottish mainland. Blended malt whiskies offer exciting opportunities and we’ll be returning to the subject in the future. Malt - what a difference one word can make.
“WHAT DRIVES THE PURSUIT OF QUALITY IS EXPERIMENTATIONFLAVOUR,ANDA
exploredrinks.com 33 MASTER BLENDER
It’s a shame, because take a look at the labels of That Boutique-y Whisky Company, Douglas Laing’s blended malts, and the whiskies put out by Wemyss, and it’s clear that Dave, Mark and Robbo were well and truly on the right track. The turning point, somewhat ironically, came courtesy of William Grant & Sons, and one of the most innovative whisky brands ever created. Monkey Shoulder is an inspired concept. The name, seemingly light and fun, has its roots in the very heart of whisky making. It refers to a injury inflicted from the hard labour of turning the barley with a heavy shovel during the malting process, creating what is a cross between a repetitive strain injury and a hunch-back.
The Johnnie Walker team today has access to over 8 million casks of maturing whisky from more than 30 distilleries, enabling them to produce the consistent style we know and love today, whilst utilising an extensive flavour palate. When the blenders art was first maturing, most single malts were terribly inconsistent. John Walker, for example, started blending them together so that his whisky tasted just as good every time. He was pursuing and delivering quality.
JIM BEVERAGE
“MALTS ARE ABOUT INTENSITY OF CHARACTER. SINGLE-MALT BOTTLINGS ARE ABOUT MAXIMIZING THIS SINGULARITY. BLENDS ARE ABOUT CREATING A TOTALITY.” DAVE BROOM This consistency and extensive flavour palate requires a lot of patience but then the nature of whisky requires time. If you want to experiment with flavour to discover something new, then you must expect to wait a long time to see the fruits of your labour.
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When Fred van Zuidam set out to make alcoholic drinks in 1975, he had two rules: one, make exclusive drinks and two, don’t cut corners. Some 45 years later that’s exactly the legacy he has passed on to his sons, Patrick and Gilbert. When Patrick started making whisky, turning his hand to single malt and rye, it was those high standards that led to the creation of a range of world-class whiskies that have been picking up awards on a phenomenal scale right from the outset.
Whisky has become very important to Zuidam and is up there with genever and gin as the busi-ness’s driving point. With the success, though, has come a demanding workload, and a whole range of new problems. The company asks a lot of commitment from its staff, and while it’s been important to There are quite literally hundreds of new world distilleries. In a new series we pick the best of them. This issue, Dominic Roskrow speaks to Patrick Zuidam, of Dutch distillers Zuidam. Dutch distiller Zuidam recently won World’s Best Distiller in The Wizards of Whisky World Whisky Awards. But it has worked hard for it.
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“Everything is always open to improvement. But we have made such huge steps from the beginning, and now we are improving details mostly in the fermentation process.”
Zuidam apart from many other European spirits and liqueur producers is the way the distillery embraced whisky making at the start of the millennium, joining an elite group of world producers that included Lark, Limeburners, Sullivan’s Cove and Bakery Hill in Australia, Mackmyra in Sweden, Amrut in India, Penderyn in Wales, The English Whisky Company and The Belgian Owl. All of them were determined to break out from their locality and achieving success on an international platform. The whiskies are marketed under the name Millstone - a reference to the process of using a local Dutch windmill to crush the grain - and from an early stage Patrick and his team started experimenting with peat and different types of cask.
The range grew up in public, progressing from five-year bottlings to whiskies aged for more than 14 years. Patrick says that the aim of all involved was to keep improving and not standstill.
Zuidam is a family-run company in the small Southern Netherlands town of Baarle-Nassau, which backs on to a complicated and confusing border with Belgium. Traditionally it has focused on genevers, rums, gins and liqueurs, creating hundreds of recipes and using only the finest fruits, spices and botanicals. Such attention to detail doesn’t come as a surprise once you spend any time with Patrick, who admits to being ‘a bit of a perfectionist and maybe a little bit of a control freak Whattoo.’sets
NEW WHISKYWORLD
“The whiskies are marketed under the name Millstone - a reference to the process of using a local Dutch windmill to crush the grain”
1. Distillerie Warenghem, France: Maker of Armorik 2. Brauerei Locher, Appenzell, Switzerland: Maker od Säntis 3. The Cotswolds Distillery, England 4. Penderyn Distillery, Wales 5. The Belgian Owl, Belgium 6. Langatun. Switzerland: Maker of Old Bear and Old Deer 7. Broger Privatbrennerei, Austria 8. Spirit of Hven, Sweden 9. Stauning, Denmark 10. Slyrs, Germany
“Winning these awards is really important. We work 80 hours a week and these accolades together with the feedback we get from consumers are an important part of why we do what we do and why we have put all the effort in over the years, all the sleepless nights, and the time away from the family has at least not been for nothing.
FEATURE exploredrinks.com 37 Patrick to keep everyone happy, there have been challenges. A lack of space due to expansion and the resulting health and safety implications, the need for new and better equipment, and some awkward neighbours who don’t want the distillery to grow, have all presented the company with a head-ache. It was a problem in 2015, and it remains so “Apparentlytoday. some things haven’t changed,” sighs Patrick. “Since we last spoke we had done two expansions of 1200m2 (so 2400m2 in total), but we are still short on space. “We are still waiting for the permit on the much needed second distillery. We are still in court over that because one neighbour decided to object to our beautiful plans.” Then there has been the odd, unexpected distraction, such as a worldwide boom in gin consumption. It’s a core product for Zuidam, so has there been an impact? “I am afraid so!” says Patrick. “We have been hugely successful with our gins. Our gins are distilled from fresh botanicals, and that has been extremely well received by the consumer. “We export all over the world. Exports are growing even faster than domestic sales. The great thing about exports is we get to do business with all those great people who work so hard to promote our products all over the world. Now the plan is to increase production and stock positions. We have beautiful old sherry casks to fill. We will continue to experiment and always try to improve ourselves.” So no let up then. And as the business continues to expand, no doubt other problems will rear their ugly heads. But awards such as this year’s World Wizards World Distiller of the Year makes everything worthwhile in the end.
TEN EUROPEAN WORLD DISTILLERIES WORTH CHECKING OUT
“For my father, who started the distillery, in the difficult 70s, it has also meant a lot. He and mum had really hard times when they started, both financially as well as the seven day work weeks (me and my brother Gilbert literally grew up in the distillery). He is 84 now and has not been well since he had a stroke four years ago. But he was really, really emotional when we told him (about The Forty-fiveWizards).”years. It’s taken a lot of hard work and dedication. But Zuidam has stuck with its principles, and it’s paying off in droves.
Each of the three new whiskies tells its own story. The 12, Sweet Toast of American Oak is the story of our new apprentice malt master Kelsey McKechnie and her journey to Kentucky to find the perfect barrel toast to bring the classic flavours of our liquid that she loves to the forefront.
explore Whisky: Tell us a bit about your role as The Balvenie brand ambassador, and what does it entail.
Ross Blainey: Being a brand ambassador for The Balvenie is a pretty unique and incredibly enjoyable job. It’s my job to be the link to the distillery, our whisky and our brand around Australia and New Zealand. I help people understand what we do, how we do it, why we do it and about the real people that make The Balvenie in the most fun and memorable way possible. It’s fun, but it’s a lot of work too, it’s not all just the events you see on Instagram! The travel, back of house work and long hours are more than made up for when you get to the end of an event, raise a glass and see some smiling faces.
Complicity in flavour, rich, sweet and honeyed but a little different from the edgy ones - it’s about the roundness and balance. No sharp edges. A great intro to whisky and also a little piece in history being a key part in the pioneering of cask finishing.
eW: How do you educate the consumer on appreciating whisky? Is there a process you follow?
RB: I’ve always loved being back at the distillery and hearing the stories of what’s been going on either in years past or weeks past. This new range is about showing the stories that our distillery is built on. Stories are our lifeblood at The Balvenie, each week, year, decade having many more and all tied together with the thread of our whisky.
Ever wondered what the role of a Whisky Ambassador entailed? We caught up with Ross Blainey The Balvenie brand ambassador to find out about his work life, the new releases and how he likes to enjoy a dram. GETTING INTO WHISKY CAN BE DAUNTING, AND THERE ARE SO MANY AMAZING SCOTCH WHISKIES OUT THERE TO TRY.
RB: Appreciating whisky can be done in so many ways. I think as long as you are respecting the whisky, the people who have made it and the many years of hard work and passion that has gone into it you can appreciate in any way you want. If someone wanted to learn a more “professional” sense of appreciation as in the tasting aspects, I’d say the best thing to do is take your time to enjoy the aromas and flavours. Don’t rush and don’t expect to be able to get all the flavours the first time. It’s all personal experience, but as long as you drink it, it tastes good, and you give a little nod to the people who put their passion into making it, I think you are appreciating it well.
eW: How do you like to describe whisky to a rum drinker and why you think it’s better?
BEHIND THE SCENES OF A WHISKY AMBASSADOR
eW: You’ve recently launched The Balvenie Stories. Tell us about the new range.
RB: Well, I’d never say to someone that I think whisky is better. I prefer it myself but do love a wee Daiquiri every now and again. Drinking spirits is all personal preference and each to their own. Describing Scotch whisky to a rum drinker I would say that Scotch style is going to be much less sweet as it is made from malted barley. Our climate in Scotland allows us to age much longer, so the integration of many different flavours can come into play, creating a complex and rich flavour but with great balance and depth.
RB: I always go back to The Balvenie 12 DoubleWood. Getting into whisky can be daunting and there are so many amazing Scotch whiskies out there to try. All whiskies are built differently in flavour. Some have pointed edges which makes them tasty and unique like saltiness or smoke. Our malt master David Stewart MBE has been with us for 57 years and has his own style of balance.
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eW: Within your portfolio, what’s a good whisky to recommend for new drinkers to the category?
Easing into it I’d suggest a dram of The Balvenie 14 Caribbean cask – finished in rum barrels for a little bit of sweetness and rum influence.
RB: I really do like them all just neat and having a sip when I have a few minutes to sit down and enjoy thinking back to the story but… I am thoroughly enjoying working with a few of the top cocktail bars around Australia in creating some beautiful concoctions. Sitting at the bar tasting and trying these cocktail is perfect for me. The 14, The Week of Peat I like to pull out after a good meal with a little bit of cheese. A nice creamy blue goes well with a bit of honey. My mouth is watering just writing this down!
eW: If you could only save a handful of whiskies from your collection because of a fire, which ones would you grab?
eW: With the new range are they designed to drink neat, on the rocks or mixed / cocktail? What’s your serving
RB: I don’t keep a huge collection of whisky really, I like to pop it open and share it mostly, but I do have a few there that are important for sentimental reasons. I’d definitely grab my Balvenie 30 year old which our Malt Master David Stewart signed and gave to me for my 30th birthday. I’d save a bottle of Killara Single Malt in Tasmania which I was lucky enough to help Kristy Lark decant there as it turned two years old which is pretty special to me and I have a few little sample bottles from Balvenie of all sorts of interesting liquid that I want to drink sometime!
Ross Blainey The Balvenie brand ambassador AT THE BALVENIE, WE LIKE MAKING WHISKY FOR PEOPLE TO ENJOY WHATEVER WAY THEY WANT TO DRINK IT.
RB:suggestions? At The Balvenie, we like making whisky for people to enjoy whatever way they want to drink it. If you speak to anyone back at the distillery whether its Mhairi our Distillery Manager or Stevie in the mash room everyone will be happy that people are drinking what they work so hard to make. For me, they all work so well neat or with a couple of drops of water. Try having them alongside a few bits of cheese, charcuterie or chocolate for an added bit of decadence or maybe even try The Balvenie classic Penicillin cocktail – made with The Balvenie Doublewood and 14, The Week of Peat.
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The 14, The Week of Peat is the story of Ian Miller our old Distillery Manager and how he took a spare week in the production schedule to bring back an old style of The Balvenie using local peat which billowed from the pagoda to spark some interest in the town.
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The 26, A Day of Dark Barley tells the tale of one day in 1992 when Mashman Brian Webster and Matlman Robbie Gormley received an unexpected delivery of very special malt and had to enlist the help of the whole staff to begin the story of this unique roasted malt whisky.
The 26 has its own special time to be sipped for me. This is one where I want to appreciate the hard work that has gone into a 26 year old malt. Sitting in a comfortable spot with a good measure in a nice glass, I’d put on the podcast we have created to go along with each of The Balvenie Stories. Listening to the team at the distillery laugh and joke about the struggles they had while hearing the wind and the rain begin to come down as they chat in The Balvenie courtyard. Enjoy a dram and feel like you’re there with them.
eW: Describe your perfect drinking occasion for each.
ISLAYEXPLORING
Islay is Scotland’s whisky island, and home to some of the world’s best peated whiskies. But as Dominic Roskrow reports, it offers so much more.
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It’s a quiet out of season Saturday afternoon on Islay, and at the Old Kiln Cafe at Ardbeg Distillery, a few old ladies are enjoying a cup of tea and a piece of cake. Suddenly the doors swing open and in fly a group of very tall men. They all have long blond hair, an abundance of facial hair, tattoos, and piercings. They are all dressed in denim and “Theyleather.terrified the cafe guests,” recalls Ardbeg visitor centre and Old Kiln Cafe manager Jackie Thomson with a laugh. “I honestly think some of the folk there thought they were being invaded by Vikings, intent on finishing the job of Theyinvading.”weren’t. They were just members of the Stockholm Malt and Metal Society. “And it just goes to show that you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover,” says Thomson. “Because they spoke good English, asked lots of great questions, and were a total delight, very polite and friendly.” The people of Islay have long grown used to an all year round invasion of malt enthusiasts who flock to the island in search of the best expressions of peated whisky on the planet. Ardbeg is a neighbour to Lagavulin and Laphroaig in the South East of the island, Bowmore is halfway up the island, Caol Ila at the top of it, and Kilchoman is out to the West. These days both Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich (with its Port Charlotte and Octomore ranges) produce big, bold smoky whiskies. The visitors come in a number of ways: there are two daily flights from Glasgow, Cormac ferries cross from Kennacraig on the mainland to Port Ellen, just a couple of miles down the road from Ardbeg. And some come from Northern Island in speedboats, inflatable boats and RIBs. You don’t bite the hand that feeds you, but occasionally you’ll hear a local mutter “there’s more to Islay than mere whisky, you know,” and these days, they would have a point. But it wasn’t always so. Until relatively recently the mainly ageing, mainly male visitor was there for the whisky, and perhaps a round or two on the golf course at the Machrie Hotel, or fishing at several hot spots around the island. exploredrinks.com
42 exploredrinks.com These days whisky tourism is big business. In recent months Diageo alone has invested $240 million in visitor facilities at a handful of its distilleries, and there are few major producers that have gone down the same route to some extent. With demand for single malt at an all time high, distilling companies have taken the opportunity provided from extending production to invest in new visitor facilities. New whisky exhibitions and tours are all very well, but they don’t do a lot to keep little Johnny happy on his ‘summer’ holiday, and frankly, this feature has hardly sold the island to the non malt fans in the family so far, has it? Not so far, no. But let’s go back to the local muttering about Islay being more than a whisky island. The continued boom in Scotch whisky has had a remarkable effect on local economies such as that of Islay. Money has flowed into the island, and particularly into the tourist economy. Twenty years ago there was a shortage of quality hotel accommodation, and what was available, was ‘ordinary’ at best. But there’s only so much ‘quaint’ that the international traveller, and particularly the American traveller will accept. A dodgy shower over a rickety bath just doesn’t cut it with the sort of sophisticated set that come to places such as Islay looking for rare, exclusive, and undoubtedly expensive, single malt.
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4. PORT CHARLOTTE HOTEL, PORT CHARLOTTE: Close to Bruichladdich Distillery, this is a cosy, friendly hotel serving local produce, including beef, venison and lamb from local farms, game, including woodcock and red partridge from island estates and scallops, lobsters, oysters, crab, langoustines and prawns.
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But the amount of investment in the island has been staggering. The island boasts any number of modern and luxury hotels to stay at, and this in turn has ensured an all-round supply of visitors, drawn by a value for money tourist industry bolstered by an increasingly weak British pound. The improvements are self perpetuating. As the tourists have come, so too have new businesses to service them. Boat trips to see a plethora of marine life, hiking trails, music nights featuring Gaelic singers, talks on the stormy history of the Western Isles and the Lords who battled for, and ruled them. Sailing, diving, trekking - it’s all here. And throw in some stunning and all but empty (although invariably chilly) beaches, and suddenly things are looking better. Mother, father disregard this letter. Perhaps the biggest change that has come to the area is cuisine. One minute it’s an island of bog standard medium hotel fayre. The next it’s teeming with talented chefs cooking with the finest, freshest meat and seafood. The Old Kiln Cafe is still there and doing what it does, but Islay now offers a dining experience for Backeveryone.atArdbeg the Stockholm Malt and Metal Society has gone, and is no doubt marauding its way at Laphroaig or Lagavulin. The cafe has returned to its default position of gentle serenity. But who knows who’ll be through the door “Somenext?people think I’m mad to stay on Islay when there’s a whole world out there,” says one of the young women working there. “But I don’t see it like that. I get to enjoy all my home comforts, and the world comes here to see Andme.”she’s bang on the button.
1. THE HARBOUR INN, BOWMORE: Stunning views across Loch Indaal, a la carte dining, and seven superior ensuite bedrooms 2. THE ISLAY HOTEL, PORT ELLEN: Rebuilt five years ago. Has 13 snug and comfy bedrooms, an a la carte menu featuring local produce, available both in the restaurant and the more informal whisky bar.
3. LOCHSIDE INN, BOWMORE: Fully refurbished three years ago and is now a bustling and welcoming hotel in the heart of Bowmore. Its 12 rooms are all ensuites and have been completely modernised.
5. BOWMORE HOTEL, BOWMORE: Featuring 11 bedrooms, all ensuite, some newly transformed with bespoke furnishings and luxury wet rooms. The hotel cooking makes excellent use of Islay’s local produce. You can dine more casually in the bar, where you can pick from about 700 whiskies.
FIVE GREAT PLACES TO EAT AND/OR STAY ON ISLAY
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For many, Lagavulin is the definitive Islay Malt — intensely flavoured, smoky and rich. The windswept Isle of Islay instils a strength of character into everything it produces — and it’s here, nestled in a small bay guarded by the ruins of a 13th-century castle that one of the world’s most beloved whiskies has been made for over 200 years.
WHISKY PROFILE LAGAVULIN
The intense character of this majestic single malt comes from heavily peated barley from nearby Port Ellen Maltings, as well as a slow distillation before being aged in oak casks. As the locals say ‘time takes out the fire but leaves in the warmth’.
FEATURE
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Jura is a small island just 25 miles off the coast of Scotland but feels as though it is a world away. Writer George Orwell called it the most ‘un-get-at–able’ place; possibly the reason why he chose to reside there whilst penning his dystopian masterpiece, ‘1984’. The name Jura means ‘deer island’ in Old Norse because the native red deer roam the 142 square miles in their thousands. In Gaelic it is Diura meaning tough because it can be a challenging place to be. The deer share this precious green jewel in the Inner Hebrides with a small population of roughly 200 people. The natural beauty of the island is breathtaking. Wild flower rich sweeping plains and sandy beaches juxtapose majestic mountain ranges and wild crags. The west is almost inaccessible, the coastline wild and treacherous, while the east is sheltered and serene, protected by The Paps of Jura, the three mountains are visible from the Mull of Kintyre and on a clear day, Skye and Northern Ireland.
A LONG WAY FROM THE ORDINARY
Not since 1963 has there been such an exciting development for the Jura Distillery as there was in 2018 when they launched a brand new sweet and smoky signature style and ten new single malt expressions. The two new ranges are handcrafted in four stills that stand as tall as the 2nd tallest of any island whisky distillery at 25 feet four inches.
The Jura 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky is that little bit more complex than the 10 year old, the extra ageing in the Oloroso sherry casks gives this whisky its golden hue and imparts notes of chocolate, licorice and finishes with the subtle smoke, representative of the new signature style.
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At the heart of the island is the town of Craighouse where the Jura Distillery resides. The unbreakable family ties and a solid sense of community are pillars of strength for the whisky and its makers.
The purest water is channeled from Market Loch and together these factors contribute to the new light style of whisky with fresh lemon and grassy flavours. The new direction reveals a whisky that has been allowed to mature and soften in hand-selected American White Oak ex-bourbon barrels for a minimum of three years. This gives the whisky its subtle smoke. As a maturing whisky it is then finished off in a selection of fine European Oak cask finishes. The final result is a creative blend of Island and Highland styles brought together in a new and distinctive whisky.
The first of this series is called Jura Journey Single Malt Scotch Whisky and is inspired by the story of the distillery from its foundation to where it is today. Matured in American White Oak ex-bourbon barrels, Jura Journey is a versatile with an aroma of vanilla and a balance of rich fruit and gentle smoky notes. The palate is citrus with toffee fudge sweetness on the finish.
The Jura Signature Series features five distinct expressions of whiskies. All of them represent the new signature style from the Jura Distillery under the direction of chief distiller, Graham Logan.
A life of the Jura Distillery hasn’t been without its challenges. Established in 1810 by the then Laird, Archibald Campbell, the distillery experienced unstable times and was forced to close its doors in 1901. The roof was removed in 1920 to avoid paying taxes but the Jura community resurrected the distillery in 1963 and rebuilt it from scratch. The same grit and determination that saw the distillery returned to its former glory is distilled in every drop of the award-winning single malts. In a dram of Jura Single Malt Whisky the result of real passion and commitment can be tasted with every savoured sip.
The Jura Seven Wood Single Malt Scotch Whisky is further aged, after its time in American White Oak barrels, in six carefully selected French Oak casks including Limousin, Tronçais, Allier, Vosges, Jupilles and Les Bertranges, hence the name. The result is a unique flavour profile of tropical fruit richness with the stylistic smoke on the finish. This whisky is slightly higher in ABV at 42% contributing to a greater intensity and body. The palate features notes of peach, candied orange and subtle smoke.
The distillery is the lifeblood of Jura and famous for its signature style of Single Malt scotch whisky. Incredibly Jura Single Malt Scotch whisky is the 4th fastest growing single malt in the world. Closeness is a way of life on this island and the whisky unites the community in a way that is unique to Jura. The whisky is the expression of this sentiment and through it the rest of the world can experience the life and unique climate of this magical place. That is what makes this whisky so special.
The Jura 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky is matured in American White Oak ex-bourbon barrels for ten years with an aged Oloroso sherry cask finish. This quintessential Jura whisky is rich and rounded with an approachable sweet yet subtle sherry style. Its nose exhibits notes of dark chocolate, while the palate delights with flavours of ripe nectarines with a finish of freshly ground coffee.
Each cask is carefully watched over by our team, before being bottled in our Harvey Hall, using Islay spring water.
BRUICHLADDICH PROGRESSIVE HEBRIDEAN DISTILLERS
THE PRIDE OF ISLAY
Over the past two decades, Progressive Hebridean Distillers has strongly addressed these values of provenance, transparency and authenticity. All spirits are matured all their life in our warehouses on the side of Loch Indaal, Islay, gradually responding to the sea air and unique seasonal changes of Scotland’s west coast.
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The PHD philosophy is about distilling the character of the place of the spirit and the people behind it. It embraces terroir, distilling the essence of Islay in every dram and drop. The PHD ethos of authenticity, place and provenance has been passed down for generations from its Gaelic forefathers whose strong, resolute, tough, hard-working, emotional and enduring character is also the same qualities found in the spirit today. Always proudly nonconformist, the Western Isles, the Coast of the Gaels is traditionally known as the land of the outsider, people who do thing differently and rebel against the staid world of traditional whisky production. The people behind PHD today are obsessive and progressive with a passion to produce the most natural, thought-provoking, intellectually stimulating and enjoyable spirits possible.
PHD explores terroir in whisky by working directly with farmers and closing the loop on ultimate traceability. By terroir they mean the artisanal, living product that speaks of the place, of the people who have created and nurtured it; of the soil, the air, the geography that influence it. The Progressive Hebridean Distillers has made a commitment to championing an all-Islay process and has announced its plans to install on-site malting and building more warehouses on Islay to ensure all whiskies are matured on the island. PHD is proud to be a distillery that can claim all its whiskies are conceived, distilled, matured and bottled on Islay. But this is not just about preserving the signature salt-citrus tang character that comes from Located on the southwestern tip of the remote Hebridean island of Islay, the Progressive Hebridean Distillers (PHD) distils four world-class spirits; The Botanist Dry Gin, and three exceptional single malt Scotch whisky ranges, the Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte 10 Years Old and the Octomore. It is the PHD mission to claim the highest provenance of Islay of any Islay producer.
PHD has eight distilleries on the island and although the second smallest producer, is the biggest employer of local talent, 80 per cent of which live and work on Islay.
PHD Malts stand for community, longevity, collective memory and proud nonconformism. They are the ways of the Western Isles and they are values that run deep in the PHD family and through every dram of its exceptional whisky.
Regardless of the days, months or years, Progressive Hebridean Distillers continues to challenge itself to produce the best quality single malt. The distillery has a number of exciting barley projects in progress that may see some new and interesting whiskies released over the next few years.
Islay maturation; the distillery’s hashtag is #weareislay and the team behind the brand stand committed to a mantra that is central to the essence of PHD Malts. Aligned with this is Progressive Hebridean Distillers’ commitment to the island and its community.
PHD Malts fall into three different ranges, the unpeated Bruichladdich, the heavily peated Port Charlotte 10 Year Old and the super-heavily peated Octomore. Each of these ranges explores the influence of barley provenance, cask exploration and the passing of time (or age), sometimes all at once. Each bottle is unique and nuanced and celebrates variety within single malt, something that is underpinned by the distillery’s decision to not chill filter or use caramel colouring. It’s all about natural whisky at PHD. 100 per cent Scottish barley is malted to the heavyweight 40PPM for the Port Charlotte 10 Year Old. Trickle distilled through tall, narrow necked stills, the spirit is then filled into the finest ex-American and ex-French oak casks. The latest bottling has spent ten years in a combination of 65 percent first-fill ex-bourbon casks, 10 percent second-fill ex-bourbon casks and 25 percent second-fill ex-wine casks. It has been bottled onsite at the distillery, unchill filtered and colouring free, using Islay spring water at 50 per cent alcohol by volume. The Port Charlotte 10 Year Old demonstrates how a considered, slow distillation gives a sweet, barbeque smoked single malt – one that could is made through a commitment to the Islay process and the Islay people.
PHD has just purchased a croft that lies next to the distillery and has been planting barley trial plots there to experiment with barley varieties that may be better suited to Scotland’s wet west coast. The 100-strong-team is in stage three of building warehouses at the new site a mile down the road from the distillery and is starting on the planning process to fit onsite maltings. The distillery is always searching for new ways to improve the quality of its whisky and to trial new ways of doing things to create new and interesting tastes and flavours.
The brand is investing heavily behind a number of different projects, and is driven to go from strength to strength as one of the best single malts on the market today.
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First built in 1883 after William Robertson of Robertson and Baxter Blending House, joined with the Greenlees Brothers to create the Islay Distillery Company, Bunnahabhain Distillery represents the daring spirit and coastal living that plays an important part in the production of its range of Single Malts.
Steeped in stories, heritage and provenance, Bunnahabhain Distillery has seen many changes to the Sound of Islay. From humble beginnings when supplies arrived by puffer boat, to a road built in 1963 which heralded a new era for the distillery. The improved access to supplies coincided with an increased demand for Bunnahabhain whiskies. Production was expanded which led to the classic 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky released in 1979. This special Single Malt was met with worldwide acclaim. The original member of the distillery’s Core Range, it is still today one of Bunnahabhain’s most popular Single Malts and representative of its signature style.
Bunnahabhain whisky is unique to Islay because of its predominantly non-peated style and the rich, complex layers of each cask matured on the shores of the Sound of Islay. Whilst it is known for being the Non-peated Islay malt, this was not always the case, and Distillery Manager, Andrew Brown, loves to pay homage to his 19th century predecessors, who would have used peated barley like many of the other whisky distilleries on the island.
is renowned for its predominantly unpeated Single Malt whiskies which capture the wind swept, salty sea air of Islay. Bunnahabhain means ‘mouth of the river’ in Gaelic, and the distillery stands proud at the mouth of the Margadale Spring on the shores of the Sound of Islay. To make the pilgrimage to Bunnahabhain is to walk into a story of a seafaring adventure, aboard a ship sailing ever forward in its search for perfection, while remaining firmly anchored in craft, tradition, heritage and a passion for adventure.
DISCOVER THE SOUND OF ISLAY
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All Bunnahabhain whiskies are nonchillfiltered and natural colour. With nothing added or taken away, they reflect the true character of Islay. It is the only distillery on the island using pure, spring water drawn from the Margadale River, piped directly into the distillery, uninfluenced by peat and imparting a sweet and soft character contributing to the signature style of Bunnahabhain. The distillery also boasts the tallest stills on the island with unusually long swan necks that also contribute to the delicate style of the whisky. Typically single malts from Islay are heavily peated and smoke-filled but Bunnahabhain lets the sea and the island speak naturally.
The classic 12 Year Old Single Malt beautifully reflects the Bunnahabhain style with an alluring balance of sweet fruit, nuts, vanilla and a delicate coastal influence, it sets the tone and the benchmark for the rest of the range. Double matured in Bourbon and Sherry Casks, it is a beautifully rich and full-bodied whisky, achieving the perfect balance of the characteristic nutty and sherry flavours of Bunnahabhain.
The latest release for Bunnahabhain is Stiùireadair, pronounced ‘stew-rah-dur’ meaning ‘helmsman’ in Scots Gaelic. It is the latest member of the Bunnahabhain crew and delivers on the ocean influence of Bunnahabhain bay. This sherried malt whisky with its brackish, coastal tinge and a smattering of sea spray and dried fruit will transport you to salty shores of Islay.
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The clear spring water and the sea facing warehouses impart the flavours of the island on the maturing spirit.
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It seems that every time you open a bottle of whisky, someone, somewhere, is paying silly money for the same, but different, stuff. Records for rare spirits continue to tumble. That is all fine for those with seriously deep pockets, as very few of us dabble in the realm of dreams, but it does seem that this is a factor in driving up prices across the board, especially for premium and limited releases, and for Japanese whisky in general. Take the recent release from the ‘Exceptional Single Cask’ range offered by The Macallan from Scotland. Granted bottles of a single malt distilled way back in 1950 were never going to be cheap, nor should we expect them to be, but to sample what is presumably a stellar whisky, you will need to find a lazy £44,600 (one has to wonder why they didn’t just make it a nice round £45K).
The release is limited to only 336 bottles, partly explaining the price. The whisky originally went into a first-fill Sherry butt cask on 9 November 1950, and was then bottled on 24 September 2018. Alas, I am unable to provide tasting notes.
Collectables
AND SPECIAL RELEASES
The Macallan Distillery
LATEST SILLY RECORD PRICES FOR WHISKIES
Findingexploredrinks.comsomeof the world’s most sought after whiskies takes explorers across the planet, via global transport hubs and into the far-flung reaches of islands battered by North Atlantic storms. Whisky collectors and connoisseurs alike have been known to part with what amounts to a deposit on a CBD apartment and possibly, in the odd case, equal the whole purchase amount. From 60-year-old Macallan to 25-year-old “Pappy” the collectors market is red hot. So hot, that one particular 51-yearold has decided to give away all 51 bottles ever released: for nothing.
But £44.6K is peanuts compared with the prices some Macallan whiskies attract. Their legendary 1926 is a prime example. A pair of them sold last year at the Dubai Airport for US$1.2m. Can’t imagine the new owners were left to find room for their new bottles in the overhead lockers for the trip home. Only 40 bottles of the 1926 were ever made and 24 of them received special labels, a dozen designed by Sir Peter Blake (the man who designed the cover for the Beatles’ ‘Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band’) and a dozen by Valerio Adami. The dutyfree purchase soon looked like a bargain as, shortly after, another pair were sold in Hong Kong for more than US$2 million. By the way, this was not some cunning plan by Macallan to lay down a barrel for sixty years and then release them for a fortune. They just happened to find the old sherry cask, Cask No 263 from 1926, quietly maturing away in a corner of the distillery, minding its own business and forgotten by the world. That was when the plan was hatched. Most were released in 2003 at the then whopping price of £20,000 a bottle, now looking like the best buy since the famous deal where the Dutch swapped the island of Manhattan for some far-flung, useless rock in the middle of nowhere. By the way, it is believed that a dozen of the remaining bottles were destroyed by the 2011 Japanese earthquake. Whoops.
The last issue of explore WHISKY, we reported on the record for Japanese whisky, US$312,130, for the ‘1960 Karuizawa, 52-YearOld ‘The Dragon’. They made 41 bottles of it. This price has been subsequently pipped by a 50-Year-Old Yamazaki, bringing US$343,000 (50 bottles, originally released in 2005 for US$9,000). Actually, it was pipped several times but, time of writing, this is the new Despiterecord.suggestions of bubbles about to burst, it seems that great, rare, aged and limited-edition whiskies are only going to stretch the family budget even more.
LAST DROP
Last Drop is a highly specialized spirits operation from the UK, aiming to offer some of the finest and rarest bottles on the planet. These gems are, of course, priced accordingly. It was established by two gentlemen who had enjoyed long and distinguished careers in the spirits industry and beyond, James Espey and Tom Jago. They felt that they had more to offer and hence, the Last Drop, now run by their respective daughters, Beanie and Rebecca.
Pappy, the Old Rip Van Winkle Handmade Family Reserve 16-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon at A$8,551, followed by the first of the Michter’s on the list, the Michter’s 25-Year-Old Single Barrel Bourbon at A$7,674 (the Twenty-Year-Old is a snip at a mere A$4,407). Other names attracting huge money for their best include Hirsch, Black Maple Hill, W.L. Weller and Old Fitzgerald.
According to the Wine-Searcher site, top price for a bourbon goes to the Eagle Rare ‘Double Eagle Very Rare’ 20-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon at A$35,758. It beats the best that the Pappy can do by quite a way. It, the Old Rip Van Winkle 25-Year-Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon, achieved a price of A$29,502. Next up is the Buffalo Trace Distillery O.F.C. Old Fashioned Copper Bourbon at A$14,740; then another
The Wine-Searcher site also ranks all these bourbons by score. A bit surprisingly, none of these expensive bottles top that list. The honour for the highest rated bourbon on the site goes to the Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage Straight Bourbon, which is listed as having the embarrassingly low tag of just A$46. So much for getting what you pay for. You might think that such brilliant value means this bourbon would also top the popularity stakes (another category on Wine-Searcher), but no. Blanton’s ‘The Original Single Barrel’ Kentucky Straight Bourbon, listed at A$114, manages that (remember prices do vary amongst the different markets).
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They don’t start the process from scratch. Rather, they source rare and first-class spirits, usually with considerable age, and offer them to interested consumers. So far, there have been just over a dozen releases – all extremely limited and seriously expensive.
The first, released in 2009, was a 1960 Blended Scotch Whisky. It came from three casks which were surplus to original requirements, sitting ignored and unloved, until the Last Drop team arrived and bottled 1,347 gems. A search revealed that a couple of retailers around the world do still stock a bottle or two, for between $4,000 and There$6,000.hasbeen a trickle since then, not all whisky – 1950 Cognac (478 bottles), 50-Year-Old Blended Scotch (388 bottles), 48-Year-Old Blended Scotch (592 bottles), 1967 Glen Garioch Single Malt (118 bottles
The Last Drop, Beanie Espey and Rebecca Jago
A MATCHING ONE FOR BOURBONS
It is not just the prices for the top Scottish and Japanese whiskies creating new records. Bourbon and American whiskies are following suit. Almost every serious spirit drinker will know the tale of the extraordinary rise of the cult whiskies from Pappy van Winkle, now subject to a level of demand they can’t possibly supply. Look also at the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, where many of the bourbons, ryes and whiskies top four figures a bottle, on release.
The US1 Single Barrel Straight Rye (both $130) was all cinnamon and teak with orange rind, nectarines, spices and a little caramel. A supple texture, mid-length and again good Finally,complexity.thesuperb
Resurrection came recently when a couple of local entrepreneurs, Joseph Magliocco and Richard Newman, decided to establish their own whiskey operation. All of Michter’s trademarks had expired. No one owned the name. They swooped, but they moved operations to Kentucky, and opened two distilleries. They also broke with tradition by appointing a female master distiller, Pamela Heilmann. Pam recently handed the role over to her assistant, Dan McKee. They make small batch or single barrel products and have established a number of very popular products, the pinnacle being their 25-Year-Old Bourbon, sadly untasted though understandably so with a price of $8,000. Their US1 Kentucky Straight Bourbon offers lovely caramel notes with hazelnut and honeycomb. Florals and a hint of vanillin oak. Reasonable length and good complexity.
MICHTER’S TEN-YEAR-OLDBOURBONS/
THE WHISKIESCHICHIBUOFJAPAN
A confession. The wonderful bourbons and ryes of Michter’s only hit the radar very recently. But then they have not been on anyone’s radar for very long. This is a new and exciting producer, albeit one with ties to the very early days of American spirits. Way back in 1753, in Pennsylvania, Shenk’s distillery made a name for itself with sour mash. It continued, under various owners, until the dark days of prohibition proved too much and the doors closed. The distillery reopened after the laws were repealed and was eventually purchased by Lou Forman in the 1950s, who changed the name to Michter’s, a combination of the names of his sons, “Mich”ael and Pe“ter”. By 1990, it was all over again. Doors shut again.
A friend of mine so loves the Japanese whiskies from Chichibu, from legendary distiller Ichiro Akuto, that he made the pilgrimage to the distillery door. He had a wonderful visit, but was disappointed to discover that there was no possibility of actually buying a bottle. Stocks are extremely low, tightly allocated and high on the bucket list of whisky lovers around the globe. Put bluntly, these whiskies are extremely hard to find.
These are, of course, not the only Japanese whiskies on the watch list. Japan is experiencing a severe shortage of quality aged material, so aficionados are chasing every bottle they can find. In Australia, your best chance of experiencing the Chichibu whiskies is probably at a fine Japanese restaurant, as literally only a handful of these bottles ever make our shores. If you see one, don’t miss your chance – they are exquisite whiskies.
The Card Series is an extremely rare collection of whiskies, 54 different bottlings, representing the 52 playing cards plus a couple of jokers, bottled by Ichiro from material he had rescued from the recently closed Hanyu Distillery, the family
Or perhaps you jumped on the Hong Kong auction by Bonham’s, in August, of rare whiskies, which included 30 of Ichiro’s rare bottles, among many treasures, including the mythical Card series.
54 exploredrinks.com – the price between A$8,600 and A$9,000), 1961 Dumbarton Single Grain Whisky (32 bottles, and good luck finding one), 1972 Lochside Single Grain Whisky (106 bottles), 1947 Hors d’Age Cognac (186 bottles), even a pair of Colheita Tawny Ports – 1870 and 1970 (770 sets), 1968 Glenrothes Malt (141 bottles, only 8 available in Australia, around $10,000 each), 1982 Buffalo Trace Bourbon (44 bottles). I can offer a note on their Last Drop 1971 Blended Scotch (1,352 bottles, around $5,000 each, but sometimes more than twice that). Raisins, sultanas, glacéd fruit, amazingly fresh and vibrant, yet incredibly complex. The hallmark is its great length, which has more in common with wonderful old Rutherglen muscats. Flavours continued to explode across the palate –stonefruits, figs, orange rind, even florals. Decadence in a glass. A whisky to be sipped on bended knee. Granted that interest in what comes next from the Last Drop is a spectator sport for most of us, but the word is to look out for a 1925 Cognac, from a barrel discovered recently. It had originally been hidden behind a wall when a group of Germans were about to make an uninvited visit back in the early 1940s. Stay tuned.
Single Barrel 10-Year-Old Kentucky Bourbon ($250), a much-restricted release and one shrouded in more than a little mystery. Caramel, nougat, honey, nectarines, spices, sweet corn, mustard seeds, old leather, garden herbs. Great length and complexity and a delightfully seductive texture. This is a superb bourbon. This years 10-Year-Old was the final release under Pam Heilmann’s tenure as Master Distiller.
The good people at Craigellachie Distillery, Speyside, have decided that their latest whisky should not be collected. Their whisky is made to be enjoyed. This may not seem overly strange until you hear of the age. This release is 51 years old. Having rested in oak for 51 years, Craigellachie believes their whisky is priceless and should be enjoyed with friends. The crew from Explore WHISKY are pleased to be among such an inner circle, and followers of exploredrinks.com had the chance to be too. The Craigellachie 51 could be tasted at the Craigellachie pop-up bar, “A bar within a bar”, which runs from 23 – 25 October at The Duke of Clarence, an 18thcentury inspired London Tavern in Sydney.
THE WORLD’S UNCOLLECTABLEMOSTWHISKY
Craigellachie Global Ambassador Georgie Bell says, “We wanted to do the unthinkable.
Malt Master, Stephanie Macleod says of Craigellachie 51, “51 years encased in oak is an extraordinary length of time. Starting life in 1962 as an aggressive beast, the whisky over five decades has developed a softer side yet still retains the distinct umami, muscular note that Craigellachie is known for.”
We wanted to make a typically collectable Scotch whisky more accessible. We want to give as many people as we can the chance to try this incredible whisky, because how often does a whisky of this age and calibre get Craigellachietasted?”
‘Unfiltered’ is de rigueur. ‘Unflocked’ is in its infancy, so everyone is keeping a close eye on what happens - just another reason to try these amazing Tasmanian whiskies.
exploredrinks.com 55 operation where he previously worked. The whiskies were originally distilled between 1985 and 2000. Each “card” consisted of just a single barrel. These bottles famously languished on shelves for several years after release, gathering dust – there was a period not so long ago where Japanese whisky was in the doldrums, sales stagnant (which in turn led to the current shortage as no one was looking to the future given the dismal state of the market).
SULLIVANS COVE –NATURAL BOTTLING
It is believed that this is one of only four full sets of ‘Cards’ in the world and it would be a surprise if the price for the Collection was any less than a million dollars.
Eighty lucky whisky lovers (competition winners) could try the 51-year-old in a private tasting of Craigellachie’s 13, 17 and 23-yearold age statements before being guided to the Craigellachie 51 exclusive tasting led by Global Brand Ambassador, Georgie Bell.
Patrick Maguire, head distiller, and his team at Sullivans Cove, Australia’s most successful whisky distillery, are always looking for new ways to improve their products.
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Cask strength whiskies hold the compounds in solution but dilution for bottling allows them to fall out. Even the addition of ice to your Sullivans Cove may cause a small haziness.
While most commercial whiskies are chill-filtered, Sullivans Cove has been working with unfiltered and unflocked trials. In other words, they leave as much of the good stuff – the fats and oils contributing to flavours, depth and texture – in the whisky itself. It might mean that in time, there is a small sediment, but this is not only harmless, it just might add to the overall Flockingquality.isthe process of allowing whiskies which have not been chill-filtered to settle, over a number of months at ambient temperature, in order that “the heaviest particulate can fall out of solution and be removed with a simple paper filter”. It leaves the whisky in its most natural state.
The Chocolate Rye Malt comes from a single batch of eight casks (1,148 bottles). Archie Rose Master Distiller, Dave Withers, says that the “Chocolate Rye Malt yield is really low – to put in perspective, I’m talking fifteen times lower than a typical distillers malt.” He sees it as adding “accents of cocoa, cola and coffee.” The way they speak of this component is very much on a ‘less is more’ basis, given what it imparts. In addition, they use old sherry (Apera in ‘Aussie’) casks which have been re-shaved, toasted and charred, believing they adds “notes of dried fruits and sultanas, which complement the biscuity, creamy and chocolate flavours”.
Most Aussie spirit lovers think gin when anyone mentions Archie Rose, but they have a range of truly exciting spirits. First, there was an absolutely cracking rum.
While you’ll be lucky to find this whisky, their Rye Malt will be easier (they have a ballot system first up – the first batch sees 2,071 bottles available) and very much worth chasing. It has already been awarded ‘Best Australian Whisky’ at the IWSC Awards in London 2018. Personally, I loved it. A really stunning expression of Australian whisky and compelling evidence of the ever-increasing maturity of our spirits industry. Rich, supple, powerful and complex, there are notes of teak, cinnamon, cocoa, and spices with an utterly seductive texture.
Now, we have some wonderful limitededition whiskies (with more to follow), their Chocolate Rye Malt Whisky ($149), part of their Concepts series (their rarest and most interesting releases), to be followed by their Rye Malt Whisky ($119), which will become part of their core range.
One of the many George Grants who have led the company over its very long history –this one spent an amazing 52 years in charge – made the decision to lay down more vintage casks. Sales had declined in the 1960s, and the distillery had lost a major client for blending operations, so it was the ideal time for a producer looking to the long term. When some of the vintage bottles were originally released, our George was so convinced that his idea would never succeed that he reportedly went on holidays, rather than attend the launch. To his surprise, almost immediately, he received a fax from his Japanese distributor, ordering 178 bottles. George was curious and rang to see if such a large order was to cover Japan for the next couple of years. His distributor informed him that it was not. It was actually an order from one bar alone. That changed his perspective. It is possible to purchase individual bottlings, ideal for anniversaries or birth years. The 1954, for example, is currently available for A$15,000 per bottle. The 1971, which I had the chance to sample recently, is a more modest A$5,500. More recent bottlings will reflect even more modest prices. The 1971 has a dark amber/teak colour with browns and orange notes, the rim slightly lighter. The palate was powerful (different bottlings do vary, but the alcohol level seems to sit between 50 and 57 per cent – this one certainly felt as though it
Whisky lovers are curious folk. Some will fight tooth and nail to get hold of rare bottles or commemorative releases and then never open them. Others see the most expensive and exclusive of them as simply a drink to be enjoyed with friends and family. To each their own. Anyone wanting an instant collection, or plenty of superb drinking in the days ahead, could do worse than get hold of a Glenfarclas Family Cask Trunk. Yours for an estimated $230,000/£100,000. Only 60 trunks are available worldwide, though future releases are anticipated. Inside are fifty 200ml bottles of Glenfarclas malt whisky, vintage-dated, representing every year from 1954 to 2003. Toss in sets of very special crystal tumblers, nosing glasses, a water jug, slate coasters and three leather-bound books (a history; full tasting notes; and one for your own notes), and finally, a replica of a 1791 painting of the distillery, the original of which hangs in the private dining room in Ballindalloch, the oldest known painting of the distillery. A previous trunk was released in 2007, with 43 whiskies (including the 1952 and 1953, now depleted), for a mere £6,500, which is looking pretty good buying these days.
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COLLECTABLE WHISKIES
JW GHOST UPDATE
Our previous edition of Explore Whisky introduced many aficionados to the concept of Ghost distilleries. In the interim, these near mythical sites have become even more important to producers of great malts.
The latest edition of Johnnie Walker’s ‘Ghost and Rare’ series, the third release, has focused on the now closed Highland distillery of Glenury Royal, which dates back to 1825, eventually shutting its doors in 1985. Other ghost distilleries providing material for this whisky are Cambus and Pittyvaich. Rare whiskies come from Glen Elgin, Inchgower, Glenlossie, Cameronbridge and Glenkinchie. It will be available from October this year.
So why close a distillery, given the demand, adulation and sky-high prices? It is not that long ago that the whisky industry was in the doldrums and sales were nothing like what is enjoyed today. Be under no illusions –every distillery produces whisky of a unique character and when one closes, it is lost forever. But this is a commercial business.
You can be sure that those producers so fortunate as to have a ‘ghost distillery’ on their books will either have begun restoration or be seriously thinking of doing so. These places have quickly become legendary and any remaining material sought after by malt fans around the globe.
exploredrinks.com 57 was from the higher end of the spectrum), with notes of honey, raisins, spices, plum pudding, cinnamon, and a smoky honeycomb character. These releases are from a range of bottlings – not everything went into bottle at once. So far, there have been around 400 bottlings across the vintages. For reasons they are not sure of, reputedly the most popular is 1979 – perhaps as it is seen as the lightest of the range. It has already seen around 14 Glenfarclasbottlings.doesarange of aged malts, for those looking for more regular yet equally exciting bottlings. There really is something for everyone here whether you want to invest, collect or drink well.
A ghost distillery is basically a once-working distillery, sometimes much loved and highly regarded, which, for whatever reasons, closed down. Whisky is a different product. In most industries, any remaining stock would simply have been sold to offset costs. But great whisky takes years and in many of these old ghosts, ancient barrels continued to mature, becoming some of the most exciting whiskies on the planet. Brora and Ellen Port distilleries, two ghost distilleries which both closed in 1983, are examples and have contributed to the JW Ghost and Rare in the past. Any bottles of whisky from them bring huge prices these days.
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The good news is that both Brora and Port Ellen are reopening in 2020.
Some of the material has been used as blending components, while some has been bottled as special, and usually very expensive, releases. The aforementioned Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare is a fine example.
“This is an outstanding example of a Port Ellen, remarkably lively for its age at 39-Years-Old. A rich aroma, its advanced age has enhanced the make’s original character rather than overcome it with flavours from the cask. What an honour to taste such a piece of Islay’s history,” said Whisky Expert, Charles Maclean.
AROMAS: Soft peat smoke, sultanas, melon and lime.
PALATE: Mint, smoke, white chocolate and fruit salad.
The 39-Year-Old is bottled at 50.9% abv. The price, if you can find it, expect to pay in the region of $9,000 AUD, but there’s not much around and prices will vary on demand.
“Its ground-breaking founder skilfully harnessed the island’s alluring, peaty wilderness and unforgiving coast line to create a distillery which produced cult whiskies with unrivalled depth.
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“There is the regular smoke from the local peat, but this one is softer. As this release has been selected from a small number of casks, it is very different to other Port Ellen releases. “Authentic in character, as it came from the casks and natural in colour, this liquid will no doubt inspire connoisseurs and collectors alike to own this once in a lifetime piece of history.”
The upcoming Port Ellen Untold Stories Series will feature some of the last remaining stocks from the original distillery, which closed in 1983, making this a very sort after and collectable whisky.
FINISH: Spicy, focused and balanced.
While the world waits for it to start production again, only a finite amount of its original stock remains, having gained cult status over the years for demonstrating some of the finest character found on the island of Islay.
Port Ellen will unveil the oldest ever liquid from the original stock to be released globally, Port Ellen: Untold Stories The Spirit Safe. The 39-Year-Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky is the first exclusive release in this series of high aged whiskies from the revered distillery.
VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
OLDTASTINGNOTES:
UNTOLD STORIES THE SPIRIT SAFE PORT ELLEN 39 YEAR
Tom Jones, Global Prestige Brand Ambassador, said: “This Port Ellen: Untold Stories The Spirit Safe, 39-year-old, is an exceptional single malt Scotch whisky from this storied distillery on Islay.
The Port Ellen Untold Stories Series is an exploration into the innovative and trailblazing background of this iconic Islay distillery. Closed over thirty years ago in 1983, set to remain silent for all time, it is now to be reopened in 2021.
TASTING NOTES
Vanilla, spiced orange and blackcurrant notes, rich malt, waxy citrus and tropical fruit notes, echoes of aged oak, and a lingering finish of unmistakable Port Ellen maritime smokiness.
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JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL
GHOST & RARE PORT ELLEN
Distilling at Port Ellen is due to resume in 2020, but it will be more than 20 years before the sublime maturity of its ghost stock is reached.
Diageo owns the largest number of silent distilleries including most sought after ghost stocks such as Brora, Port Ellen, Rosebank, Glenury Royal and Glen Albyn. This stock underpins the rarity and unrivalled depth of flavour of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.
Each Ghost & Rare special edition pays tribute to the rarity and complexity of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, using only a selected few of the most special whiskies within the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Reserves.
Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost & Rare Port Ellen brings together eight treasured whiskies of no less than 20 years of age. At its heart is Port Ellen, one of Scotland’s most soughtafter malts, which closed in 1983.
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The epic adaptation of George R.R. Martin’s series of fantasy novels was created by David Benioff and D.B. Weiss and made stars of nobodies and boosted tourism numbers to the exotic film locations of Croatia, Iceland, Malta, Morocco and Spain. The series set viewing records. By series seven the average number of viewers per episode reached 32.8 million across all viewing platforms. The story tells of the fictional Seven Kingdoms of Westeros. It follows the alliances and conflicts between seven noble families and their plot to rule on the Iron Throne or be independent of it. This story arc is set against the greater threat of the shadowy White Walkers in the North, woken by a long coming winter. The Night’s Watch exists to defend the realm from this Army of the Dead. Each of the eight rare single malts represents one of the seven great Houses of Westeros, and the Night’s Watch. Taking its cue from the beyond the Wall, Johnnie Walker also released a White Walker Scotch Whisky inspired by the Army of the Dead.
Rarely does a television series capture the world’s imagination as Game of Thrones did over its eight year screening on HBO. In celebration of the much-anticipated finale of the iconic series, Diageo and HBO collaborated to release a limited-edition range of single malt scotch whiskies inspired by the show.
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INSPIRES A COLLECTIONLIMITED-EDITIONOFSINGLEMALTS
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS HOUSE TULLY SINGLETON WHISKYSINGLEGLENDULLENOFSELECTMALTSCOTCH
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The members of the House of Tully reside at the castle at Riverrun and they rule The Riverlands. The power of water flows through House Tully and this was the inspiration behind choosing Singleton of Glendullen Select. This whisky is produced on the banks of the River Fiddich where the flowing water is harnessed through a water wheel that powers the whole distillery. The label features the arched white trout, the House of Tully coat of arms. The family motto is Family, Duty, Honour. The most prominent Tully in the series was Catyln Tully, wife of Ned Stark and mother of Robb, Sansa, Arya and Bran Stark. TASTING NOTES Orange and clove open on the nose and on the palate is red berry compote and vanilla cheesecake with a pronounced cereal spice finish.
NED ALWAYS SAID THAT THE MAN WHO PASSES THE SENTENCE SHOULD SWING THE BLADE, THOUGH HE NEVER TOOK ANY JOY IN THE DUTY. BUT I WOULD, OH, YES. - CATYLN TULLY STARK
STEEL. – SANSA
TO IVORY,
THAN ANYTHING. NOTHING IS JUST
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS HOUSE STARK
— ARYA
WINTER’SDALWHINNIEFROST House Stark’s resilience, strength and ability to thrive under intense situations were shaped by the freezing conditions at home at Castle Winterfell. Dalwhinnie is renowned for being one of the highest distilleries in Scotland and is cold and remote, much like where the Starks reside. Extreme conditions are responsible for shaping the signature Dalwhinnie Winter’s Frost honeyed sweetness and spicy warmth. This House and this Single Malt make for an iconic pairing. The label features the family symbol of the Dire Wolf, and their motto, ‘Winter is Coming.’ Most prominent Stark in the series? There were many, so this is debatable. Ned Stark was significant but was killed off in Series One. Arya was a fierce and determined character as was Sansa Stark.
MY
TO
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TASTING NOTES Honey and fresh fig develop on the palate followed by a delicious maltiness and rich fruit cake. SKIN HAS TURNED PORCELAIN, TO NOTHINGSTARKISN’T BETTER WORSE NOTHING. STARK
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into a rich
TASTING NOTES Baked apple with baking spices open on the first nosing then transforms on the
CARDHU GOLD RESERVE Fueled by the same fiery spirit as the fierce female leader, Daenerys Stormborn Targaryen, this single malt celebrates legendary women and their steadfast perseverance in the face of adversity. Two female distilling pioneers, Helen Cumming and her daughter-in-law Elizabeth, put the The Cardhu Distillery on the map during the 1800s at a time when the whisky industry was almost entirely male. Daenerys Targaryen was the last of the family and the Mother of Dragons. With the power of her dragons behind her, she conquered lands and freed slaves. The label features the Targaryen dragon. palate caramel character
with hints of clove, red apple and a gentle nuttiness. YES ALL MEN MUST DIE BUT WE ARE NOT MEN. - DAENERYS TARGARYEN I AM DAENERYS STORMBORN OF THE HOUSE TARGARYEN, OF THE BLOOD OF OLD VALYRIA. VALYRIAN IS MY MOTHER TONGUE. UNSULLIED! SLAY THE MASTERS, SLAY THE SOLDIERS, SLAY EVERY MAN WHO HOLDS A WHIP, BUT HARM NO CHILD. STRIKE THE CHAINS OFF EVERY SLAVE YOU SEE! - DAENERYS TARGARYEN
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TASTING NOTES Characteristic Lagavulin sweet smoke explodes on the nose with a little more brine than other expressions. The palate opens with caramelized banana and heavy vanilla and burnt marshmallow which subside into salty caramel flavours. WHEN YOU PLAY THE GAME OF THRONES YOU WIN OR YOU DIE – CERSEI LANNISTER DEATH IS SO FINAL, YET LIFE IS FULL OF POSSIBILITIES — TYRION LANNISTER
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS LANNISTERHOUSE LAGAVULIN 9 YEAR OLD House Lannister of Casterly Rock is one of the most powerful, richest and oldest of the seven dynasties. Lagavulin is one of the most legendary single malt brands and crafted on the shores of Islay for more than 200 years. The creation of this exceptional single malt mirrors the meticulous calculation and tenacity employed by the Lannisters in their rise to conquer the Iron Throne. One can see Cersei Lannister high up in the Red Keep sipping Lagavulin 9 Year Old from her goblet while plotting to destroy her next enemy. The House Lannister heraldry features a golden lion on a crimson background featured on the label. The House motto is ‘Hear me Roar’. The most prominent Lannisters in the series were twins Cersie and Jamie Lannister and their brother, Tyrion Lannister.
TASTING NOTES Dry Sichuan peppery smoke and dark chocolate on the nose. On the palate the salted caramel with chili flakes explode into a smoky fruitcake spice and the finish is long and complex with a lasting character of leather. ARE MY QUEEN, I GO WHERE YOU COMMAND – THEON GREYJOY
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS HOUSE GREYJOY SELECTTALISKERRESERVE House Greyjoy of Pyke rules the harsh, bleak and remote Iron Islands and worships the Drowned God. Talisker was a natural pair for House Greyjoy as this single malt is distilled on the shores of the Isle of Skye, one of the most remote and rugged areas of Scotland. The layered flavours and signature maritime characters are the result of its wave-battered shores. Intense and smoky, this single malt is also powerful, spicy and sweet. House Greyjoy’s symbol is a golden Kracken featured on the label. Their House motto is – we do not sow. They are also associated with the phrase –what is dead may never die – which relates to their faith in the Drowned God. The ruler of the House of Greyjoy rules from the Seastone Chair. The most prominent Greyjoy character in the series was Theon Greyjoy, ward of Ned Stark.
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YOU
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THE SEVEN KINGDOMS BARATHEONHOUSE
ROYAL LOCHNAGAR 12 YEAR OLD It is the Royal lineage that the House Baratheon finds its common ground with the Royal Lochnager 12 Year Old. In the beginning it was Robert Baratheon from House of Baratheon of Storm’s End who conquered the Iron Thrown and rules the Seven Kingdoms after three centuries of Targaryen reign. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited the distillery of Royal Lochnager in 1848 and were so impressed they granted it a Royal Warrant. This is the true taste of royalty, balanced and delicate and full of spice and best enjoyed neat. The Baratheon’s motto is ‘Ours is the Fuiry’ and the limited-edition Lochnager label features the black stag, the House’s sigil. The most prominent Baratheon characters in the series were Robert Baratheon, Stannis Baratheon and Gendry Baratheon.
TASTING NOTES Light notes of oak and sweet liquorice that develops into a rich, creamy vanilla coffee and finishes with a mild nutmeg custard note. OURS IS THE FURY. THESE ARE THE WORDS OF THE BLACK STAG OF BARATHEON; A BATTLE CRY ECHOED THROUGHOUT THE LAND IN REBELLION WHEN I, ROBERT BARATHEON, THE FIRST OF HIS NAME SEIZED THE IRON THRONE FROM THE MAD KING, AERYS TARGARYEN, ENDING A DYNASTY NEARLY THREE HUNDRED YEARS OLD . – ROBERT BARATHEON YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT THEY ARE LIKE? DEATH. THAT’S WHAT THEY ARE LIKE. – GENDRY BARATHEON TO ARYA STARK ON THE WHITE WALKERS
exploredrinks.comDRINKS69THE SEVEN KINGDOMS HOUSE TYRELL CLYNELISH RESERVE House Tyrell of Highgarden rules over the Reach, the lush and fertile region of Westeros. Like the Reach, Clynelish is positioned among green pastures and rolling hills, with scenic views of the North Sea. This vibrant, golden Scotch is light and floral, like House Tyrell, it’s not to be underestimated with its underlying complex combination of Highland and maritime qualities. The Tyrell sigil is the gold rose on the pale green field and the House motto is ‘Growing Strong’. Most prominent Tyrell characters in the series were Margeary Tyrell and her mother Olenna Tyrell played superbly by Diana Rigg with some of the best lines in the series. Here are a few. TASTING NOTES Bursting with fresh tropical fruits like papaya and mango that subsides into a creamy vanilla character. The finish is slightly maritime in quality with a delicate floral note. GROWING STRONG. HA! THE DULLEST WORDS OF ANY HOUSE! – OLENNA TYRELL ALL LANNISTERS ARE LIONS AND WHEN A TYRELL FARTS IT SMELLS LIKE A ROSE. – OLENNA TYRELL I WAS TOLD YOU WERE DRUNK, IMPERTINENT AND THOROUGHLY DEBAUCHED. YOU CAN IMAGINE MY DISAPPOINTMENT AT FINDING NOTHING BUT A BROWBEATEN BOOKKEEPER – OLENNA TYRELL TO TYRION LANNISTER YOU’VE LOST CERSEI. IT’S THE ONLY JOY I CAN FIND IN ALL THIS MISERY – OLENNA TYRELL
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THE WATCHNIGHT’S OBAN BAY RESERVE The Oban distillery sits beneath the steep cliff that overlooks the bay in the frontier between the west Highlands and the Islands of Scotland, separating land and sea, just as Castle Black, home of The Night’s Watch, sits between Westeros and the lands beyond The Wall. The richness of this Scotch is balanced with a woody spicy dryness that The Night’s Watch could enjoy even on the coldest of nights. The most prominent character of the Night’s Watch was Jon Snow, bastard son of Ned Stark and Commander of the Night’s Watch. “Night gathers, and now my watch begins. It shall not end until my death. I shall take no wife, hold no lands, father no children. I shall wear no crowns and win no glory. I shall live and die at my post. I am the sword in the darkness. I am the watcher on the walls. I am the shield that guards the realms of men. I pledge my life and honour to the Night’s Watch, for this night and all the nights to come.”― - THE NIGHT’S WATCH OATH TASTING NOTES Rich notes of cherry pie and candied orange peel open up on the palate that drifts into a wonderful crème caramel and a wisp of charred oak. THE MORE YOU GIVE A KING, THE MORE HE WANTS. WE ARE WALKING ON A BRIDGE OF ICE WITH AN ABYSS ON EITHER SIDE. PLEASING ONE KING IS DIFFICULT ENOUGH, PLEASING TWO IS HARDLY POSSIBLE — JON SNOW THE LONG NIGHT IS COMING, AND THE DEAD COME WITH IT. NO CLAN CAN STOP THEM, THE FREE FOLK CAN’T STOP THEM, THE NIGHT’S WATCH CAN’T STOP THEM AND ALL THE SOUTHERN KINGS CAN’T STOP THEM. ONLY TOGETHER, ALL OF US, AND EVEN THEN IT MIGHT NOT BE ENOUGH BUT AT LEAST WE’LL GIVE THE F---ERS A FIGHT — JON SNOW DRINKS
JOHNNIE WALKER Talk about cometh the hour, cometh the man… John Walker was a quintessential 19th Century Industrial Revolution entrepreneur. Not that the Scots have a word for entrepreneur… His father died when John was young, but left him enough money to go into business. Groceries. A Grocer’s Shop stocked whisky. But whisky then was variable in its quality and strength and flavour. John Walker solved this problem of inconsistency. Blending. He gave his customers a reliable, unchanging, dependable and well-priced staple. Like a French wine negociant, a Champagne house, or an Australian brewer, he realised that blending irregular components could make for more than the sum of the parts. The Johnnie Walker brand was introduced in 1908 when the striding man was created.
John Walker’s son, Alexander, was also an entrepreneur and innovator. Even though he inherited a successful business, Alexander created the first commercial blend ‘Old Highland Whisky’ and did what a well-brought up Scotsman would do: expand. Export. Innovation in both logistics and marketing - and he wasn’t even an American… His sons, Alexander II and George Paterson Walker followed in his footsteps, with the Red and Black label created under their watchful eye. 1860: a square bottle. Less space in transportation and fewer breakages in said logistics. Individual ship’s captains invited to be distributors for Johnnie Walker whisky, as they sailed and steamed to far-off places - a sort of early franchise system. Red and black and simple colours to stratify labels and levels of quality. By 1920 Johnnie Walker was sold in 120 countries. By 1934 a Royal Warrant, which it still holds today. The colours for different labels continued, and the confidently “striding man” became the label’s logo.
I blame the Scots. Whisky is all their fault.
And a fault compounded, entrenched, and unrelenting thanks to one simple, unadorned Scottish truism: family. Clannishness. They bond together like the hoops of steel that keep their whisky barrels bound. Through life and through business.
Whisky FAMILIES OF
John Walker’s son Alexander Walker
Whisky: it is no wonder that this remarkable gift given - I’m sorry, I mean sold… - and sold to the entire world, is riven with family ties and familial bonds. Whisky. It’s like a liquid tartan. Where it is from and how its story is told is in every way as important as every other vital Scottish cultural touchstone. And the families that have made and continue to make whisky are apt demonstrations of this history. No doubt you’re familiar with some of them. BEN CANAIDER
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I blame Protestantism. I blame the visionary Scottish Education Act of 1872. I blame a harsh winter climate. I blame the Viking blood that still surges through Scottish veins, making for a determined and not-so quietly martial people. I blame prudence and parsimony and a certain penny-wisdom - and a strong sense of personal responsibility. I blame an undying Scottish half-contempt for the sassenach.
WILLIAM GRANT & SONS
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Walker shop The Skater (Portrait of William Grant), by Gilbert Stuart, 1782, American painting, oil on canvas
Grant’s son-in-law - Charles Gordon - also pursued and endured the sort of business trips that the Champenois had used to such clever effect in the mid century. Gordon travelled as far and wide as Australia and New Zealand to spread the word. Gordon had earlier shown the sort of perseverance that Robert the Bruce had once admired in a little spider… Having made 180 visiting calls to various grocers and liquor establishments, Gordon had not sold one bottle. So at the 181st visit he dropped off a small sample bottle. Shortly thereafter he made his first sale. Turnover in 2018 was one billion pounds. Brands within the portfolio, to name a few, are Tullamore, Hendrik’s Gin, Drambuie, and the USA craft distiller Tuthilltown Spirits. Glenfiddich and The Balvenie are also still family owned, and were the principal drivers of growth in 2018.
In 1886, at the age of 47, with his nine children alongside him, William Granthaving worked all his life in distilleries and having saved the money - laid the first stone at his first and very own distilleryGlenfiddich. One hundred thirty-five years later, a descendant of Grant - Glenn Gordon - still runs the expanded company. A family company through and through, which is clearly working, as Grant’s is the third biggest producer of Scotch whisky, with just a touch or wee dram more than 10per cent of total market share. Besides the rapid expansion that Grant undertook (buying a neighbouring distillery - Balvenie - in 1892), the company was - like Johnnie Walker - not dissimilarly innovative.
Where Walker came up with a square bottle, Grant’s created a gently triangular bottle. As a trademark and marketing move, it proved incredibly successful, particularly with actors, who liked the way the triangular bottle could not accidentally roll off the stage during rehearsals. Or performance. Grant also started to actively make and market single malt whisky, which, in the late 19th century, was more of a curio, as most Scotch drinkers bought blended whiskies.
Glenlivet moved from strength to strength under family ownership, to such a degree that other Speyside whisky distillers started labelling their spirit “Glenlivet”, as if the name were a geographical indicator. The Second World War took a direct toll on Glenlivet, however, and the distillery was forced to shut down - by government decree. The war effort needed less whisky. But immediately thereafter Glenlivet sprang back to life, with the post WWII American market demanding more and more single malt, and Glenlivet refiring the stills in order to meet demand. This time the government came to the party, disobserving post-war UK grain rationing so that Glenlivet could produce whisky. It’s no wonder that Glenlivet is the biggest selling single malt in America still to this day, and the second biggest in the world.
74 exploredrinks.com GLENLIVET Speyside.1824. George Smith had an eclectic CV, which may very well have seen him operating illegal stills. Yet with the 1823 Excise Act regulation and distilling became easier, and George Smith established Glenlivet. That he may have operated an illegal still for the 4th Earl of Gordon, who helped to pass the Act, may or may not have had something to do with him being granted a distiller’s licence… Glenlivet had some advantages. It was built near natural springs; it had good, local maltings, and it had rather unique, tall, long-necked stills, which gave the whiskey - as it does to this day - a lighter and more elegant texture.
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GLEN GRANT
FEATURE
An 1840 distillery - also Speysideand also established and driven by the energy of a couple of off-the-radar illegal distillers. John and James Grant. A distillery licence they must have seen as a better way to make a living outside of smuggling. It was John’s son, “The Major”, as he liked to refer to himself as, who was the man who modernised and revolutionised the distillery, however. Born to the business and the strange alchemy that it distilling, he introduced, in the 1870s, purifiers and filtration systems to the finished whisky, in order to give it a clear, bright appearance. He was an early adopter in many ways - putting electricity into the distillery before it was in homes; and he’s reputed to be the first man to import a motor car into Scotland… Glen Grant and Glenlivet eventually found a meeting of business minds; they amalgamated in 1972, with family interests on both sides maintained. Since that time, and through various corporate manoeuvres and acquisitions by such powerhouses as Allied Domecq, Suntory, Courage Brewing, and Pernod Ricard, it is rather sentimental to think that today both whiskies have found their own individual feet again, if not as family-owned businesses, but as original, authentic whisky brands. Ownership can change and wax and wane, but the history doesn’t disappear. And Glen Grant remains one of the world’s biggest selling single malts to this day. It is easy to see why there has been a return and a refocus on the familial history of many whisky brands. In a drinking market where emerging demographics want real stories about real people - as opposed to ads with celebrities and muzak and Lake Como in the background - a sense of legacy and of inheritance and of something more substantial helps things ring true. Wine merchants, such as Berry Brothers & Rudd, in St James’s Street London, have utilized such history well, dating back to 1698. Customers like Lord Byron; establishing brands like Cutty Sark, and introducing the concept of “vintage” whiskey via Glenrothes Single Malt. If a vintage works for wine, why not whisky… The Morrison Family - former owners of Bowmore - have recently returned to the game with Aberargie. They even grow their own barley on their own farm, taking whisky back to the very land itself. And a former bottling and blending company, Douglas Laing & Co, have headed in the other direction, so to speak, concentrating on not just single malts, but single cask whiskies, with third-generation Cara Laing telling the story - through whisky - of not just one malt, but one cask. Unique, and once it’s gone, unprocurable. Talk about the Angel’s Share...
Breathtaking landscapes and historic castles, golf courses and Harry Potter locations, Loch’s and the odd hard to find monster are all attractions bringing punters in from all over the globe – but overall, it’s the natural beauty that contributes most to not only the tourist dollars, but the uisge na beatha (water of life) that emanates from Scotland’s most famous distilleries. Visiting them is a must for whisky explorers as nothing tastes as good as the spirit straight out of the barrel or just in the distillery from where it was made. Here are eleven distilleries we recommend are worthy of your time when next in Scotland. Or just go anyway. MIKE THORBURN, IS
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Zigzagging back across the country, the Isle of Skye is home to Talisker, one of Scotland’s best loved whiskies and one of the most popular stop offs on the Hebridean Whisky Trail. Founders Hugh and Kenneth MacAskill had a few failed attempts at launching a distillery on the island but their fortunes changed dramatically when they acquired the lease to Talisker House in 1830. Proclaimed ‘the king o’ drinks’ by Robert Louis Stevenson, it is a sweet and full-bodied single malt and the distillery and visitor centre is one of the highlights for visitors to the island.
TALISKER CARBOST, ISLE OF SKYE
NOW
SCOTLAND
WORDS
TRAILWHISKY SCOTLAND’S
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OBAN OBAN, ARGYLL
Oban has just two stills, but as they say: sometimes the best things really do come in small packages.
CRAGGANMORE BALLINDALLOCH, MORAY SPEYSIDE
Cragganmore was the brainchild and lifelong dream of Big John Smith. Big John had worked as a manager at four different distilleries but was desperate to strike out on his own. He had the knowledge and experience, picking the perfect site near the Craggan Burn and Strathspey Railway and opened the distillery in 1869. With an abundance of raw material and the business acumen to make his idea work, Cragganmore was soon the talk of whisky connoisseurs. That reputation and the distillery endures today, long after the Strathspey Railway closed, and this year Cragganmore celebrates its 150th birthday. The distillery is also a key venue in the annual and very popular Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.
A distillery which inspired a town, Oban actually built up around the whisky site which opened in 1794. Yes, the area has been settled since Mesolithic times – a cave from this era was actually uncovered below the distillery – but the population grew dramatically when the whisky started to flow. This unique history has placed Oban at the heart of the local community ever since. Its location also makes it a great launch point for Islay and the isles by ferry. Originally opened by the Stevenson brothers, it wasn’t until 1890 and the rebuilding overseen by J Walter Higgin following a fire, that this whisky really built its reputation for exceptional quality. That reputation saw Oban survive the fire, the whisky crash after 1900 and the risk of closure in the 1960s.
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CARDHU ABERLOUR, MORAY SPEYSIDE
One of the jewels on the Malt Whisky Trail, Cardhu is the first distillery to officially be founded by a woman. Helen Cumming actually ran the distillery illegally between 1811 and 1824, before it was licensed. And the tradition of strong female leaders endured when her daughter-in-law Elizabeth took over in 1872. Together they defined and refined the Cardhu flavour which endures to this day. There are a range of tours running on site but aficionados are usually keen to play the whisky guessing game, Guess Dhu and enter the Cardhu Hall of Fame. Call in advance to book a spot on the tours. Cardhu also features as one of the four corners in Johnnie Walker and, like Cragganmore, is part of the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.
CLYNELISH BRORA, HIGHLANDS Situated on the North Coast 500 route, Clynelish is the final stop on the Johnnie Walker ‘four corners’ tour and is the most northern point of the blend. The distillery overlooks the North Sea and has links to the legendary Brora distillery. In 2019 it will co-host the inaugural Highland Whisky Festival drawing even more visitors to the site. Tours range from the scenic to the connoisseur with the latter including a tasting of some of its rarest malts. One of Scotland’s most northerly distilleries, it’s well worth the visit to Brora.
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This distillery’s reputation for single malt whisky has literally been forged in fire. Opened in 1826 after whisky production was legalised, the distillery was razed to the ground not once but twice in suspicious circumstances. The finger was pointed at rivals running illicit stills in the region. Somehow, Lochnagar endured and re-opened in 1845. Three years later Queen Victoria paid a visit from nearby Balmoral Castle, issued a Royal Warrant and the current name Royal Lochnagar was born. Today it is one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland.
GLENKINCHIE PENCAITLAND, EAST LOTHIAN
ROYAL LOCHNAGAR
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Located just a short drive from Edinburgh, with a twice daily shuttle service running from the city centre, Glenkinchie is known as ‘the capital’s malt’. The distillery’s origins date back to 1825 and its name actually derives from the former landowners, the De Quincys. The site closed in 1853 when its owners, the Rate brothers, were bankrupted, but re-opened in 1881 and has been in constant use since. Aside from being one of the easiest to reach from Edinburgh Airport, Glenkinchie also offers visitors a range of options from access to their exhibitions – with a dram included – to guided tours. Glenkinchie also forms part of a tour within a tour. The malt is one of the ‘four corners’ used to create the world famous Johnnie Walker and one of four stops for fans tracing the roots of the blend.
BALLATER, ABERDEENSHIRE
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80 exploredrinks.com LAGAVULIN PORT ELLEN, ISLE OF ISLAY With its 16-year-old malt consistently ranking among the highest scores at international competitions and having featured in books, movies and TV shows, Lagavulin has helped build Islay’s reputation as Scotland’s whisky island. The West Wing, Parks and Recreation and the Walking Dead TV series are just some of the shows Lagavulin has featured in. Someone risked their life to get their hands on a bottle in the latter and it has a taste unique to the isle. The distillery can actually trace its roots back to one of 10 illegal distilleries on the site, which date back to 1742 and, aside from its rich, peaty flavour, the unusual pear-shaped stills are the biggest draw for visitors.
CAOL ILA PORT ASKAIG, ISLE OF ISLAY
Another Islay malt, Caol Ila’, takes its name from the Islay Straight, which it overlooks from its home in Port Askaig. The distillery has been based here since 1846 although the current building opened in 1974 and it is the largest distillery on the island. You can take a range of tours here, including the Luxury Chocolate and Whisky Tasting Experience and, if you get your timing right, you could visit during the Fèis Ìle Music and Malt Festival, which includes an open day at the distillery. As one of the ‘four corners’ of Johnnie Walker, Caol Ila is the Islay malt that goes into Scotland’s most celebrated blend.
DALWHINNIE DALWHINNIE, HIGHLANDS
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Picked for its location, near fresh spring water and peat from the nearby bogs, the Dalwhinnie site was also a stopping point on the ancient drovers’ routes through the surrounding mountains. It is also unusual in that it spent a short period of its life, which officially began in 1897, in the hands of American owners. Their tenure was brought to an end by the advent of Prohibition in 1919. Visitors today are advised to check that the roads are open and tours are running during winter. They are also advised to book in advance, with tours regularly selling out – which is not surprising given the fact that one comes with a special chocolate tasting in partnership with Iain Burnett, the Highland Chocolatier.
THE SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD MUIR OF ORD, HIGHLANDS Glen Ord Is the only remaining single malt distillery on the Black Isle peninsula, which would have seemed remarkable to founder Thomas Mackenzie in 1838 with the area having an abundance of sites, both legal and otherwise, at that time. It has an enduring connection to the McKenzie Clan, with the land the distillery is built on owned by them for over 700 years. The distillery has grown over the centuries and, with people flocking to the Black Isle for tours, a visitor centre opened in 1994. This year the distillery will also host the inaugural Highland Whisky Festival.
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1823. Mortlach is officially founded on the site of the older illicit distillery – becoming the first legal distillery in Dufftown, now one of the epicentres of Speyside whisky distilling. 1867. George Cowie takes over as owner of the Mortlach Distillery as the whisky renowned for its depth and flavour, attracts the attention of blenders across Scotland.
1901. Post the introduction of the pioneering 2.81 distilled malt, Dr. Alexander Cowie becomes an esteemed figure within the malt whisky industry and is elected Chairman of the North Scotland Malt Distillers Association, representing over 40 distilleries in the region. 1964. Major expansions to the Mortlach Distillery help satisfy demand for the spirit, but key and original patterns of operations are left untouched such as the wooden worm tubs used to cool and condense the spirit. 1853. John Gordon takes sole ownership of the distillery the previous year, George Cowie joins under his helm. Previous to this, George was an engineer, working through the Golden Age of Victorian Engineering. With his pioneering mind, audacious spirit and true determination, George was a leader within the new distillery workforce. 1897. George’s son takesAlexandercontrolof the distillery following his father’s passing at the age of 80 1923. Dr. Alexander Cowie retires, selling Mortlach to John Walker & Sons of Kilmarnock 1939-1945. Mortlach is one of the few distilleries to continue producing whisky during World War Two.
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A DISTILLERY TIMELINE MORTLACH
The new range is comprised of three core range expressions that pay tribute to the illustrious history of the distillery – a 12year old “Wee Witchy”, 16 year old “Distillers Dram”and 20-year-old “Cowies Blue Seal”– as well as a 14-year-old “Alexanders Way” which is a travel retail (duty free) exclusive. Three of the four expressions have been bottled at 43.4% abv – the original bottling strength of Mortlach in the early 1900s. 1986. George bestowed it all to Alexander when he died, and Alexander doubled the stills his father left him. Alexander is not a distiller by trade and has not long returned from a posting in the exotic climes of Hong Kong, where he spent five years practising medicine. 1971. A small batch of whisky with a uniquely layered and beautiful flavour was distilled. Too precious and unique to consumed right away, it was set aside to mature, to ripen, and to bring out a symphony of flavours representative of the Singing Stills from which it is distilled. 1987. There are now three wash stills and three spirit stills, all gleaming copper but each completely unique in size and shape. Spirit still No. 1 is the smallest of them all. She is called The ‘Wee Witchie’. Dr. Alexander Cowie crafts the precise, enigmatically unique 2.81 distillation process which has been continued and remains unchanged to this day, and is known as ‘The Way’. 2018. The spirit is reborn with the introduction of four new expressions, including a 16-year-old that was inspired by the iconic original which was produced only for a fortunate few Distillery workers
exploredrinks.com 83 Mortlach is ‘The Beast of Dufftown’. Its character harks back to a time when whiskies were bigger, bolder, darker. Since 1896 our spirit has been precisely 2.81 times distilled. It drifts through a tangle of copper pipes and six stills of differing silhouettes 0.81 more times than is Scotch tradition. In over 120 years step nor still has been altered from Dr.Alexander Cowie’s original vision.
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SCOTCH WHISKY - SMOKY
The nose is light and floral with a subtle, nutty character. Hints of delicate oak, malted biscuits and creamy vanilla background. The taste is lightly toasted almonds, sweet cotton candy and a gentle vanilla oak, balanced with a touch of tannin. The finish is lingering oak with delicate sweetness.
AERSTONE LAND CASK 10 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT
The nose is rich and punchy peat with layers of coal tar and damp bonfire smoke, punctuated with vibrant, zesty citrus notes. The taste is an initial rush of peat and wood smoke followed by a gentle sweetness. There are hints of spice and ripe fruits enveloped in smoke. The finish is long lasting smokiness.
The place of maturation determines much of the flavour and character of the whisky. While a whisky is maturing in oak casks sitting in warehouses for years it is taking on the flavours of its environment. The combination of elements, temperature, air, humidity, minerals and vegetation are varied depending on the proximity to the sea.
DECODING SINGLE MALTS WITH AERSTONE A SENSE OF PLACE LAND VERSUS SEA
TASTING NOTES
Climatic conditions at sea or land, impart unique tastes on the liquid as it breathes and ages in wood.
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The Aerstone Single Malt is matured in two distinct terroirs to produce two distinctively different whiskies that exhibit a taste and flavour that evokes place. The Aerstone Sea Cask Single Malt Scotch Whisky is matured in warehouses on the Ayrshire Coast and delivers a smooth whisky with a hint of sea salt. The Aerstone Land Cask Single Malt Scotch Whisky is matured inland and is rich and smoky with characters of earth and peat. These two exceptional single malts are carefully matured over ten years and give the taster an appreciation of the importance of terroir in the maturation process of a single malt Scotch whisky. The Aerstone range of single malts pay homage to the place where these whiskies are born and made.
AERSTONE SEA CASK 10 YEAR OLD SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY - SMOOTH
In the Lowlands of Scotland, there is a William Grant & Sons’ whisky distillery called Aerstone producing single malts made in an easy drinking style with a smooth approachable palate, perfect for those new to the whisky tasting experience or as established malt drinkers. Aerstone offers two whiskies representing their distinct place of maturation – the land and the sea – that allow drinkers to clearly understand the taste profiles of single malt.
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SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
WHAT IS WHISKY?
SINGLE MALT Single Malt is a whisky that made in the one distillery from a mash that used only one type of grain.
To appreciate aroma, palate and heat on the throat, whisky connoisseurs either enjoy their whisky on ice, with a splash of water or neat. Some will say the water is necessary to release the nose and accentuate the flavours, much like swirling a glass of wine. Others will say it dilutes the whisky while others go for a large ice cube because they like it chilled down. Some prefer to drink their single malt with a mixer such as soda or ginger ale. Malt Master, Brian Kinsman, says he is not opposed to a little mixer with his single malt on a warm summer’s day. It’s all down to personal taste.
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PEAT Peat is a highly organic material composed of partially decayed vegetation and found in marshy or damp regions. Peat is formed over thousands of years. Scotland has a lot of peatland. The peat flavour in whisky is imparted by drying the damp malt over a peat-heated fire to bring the smoke into the barley grain during production.
MALTING The process by which barley is wet and spread on the floor of a malting house allowing for a chemical change that takes place when the starch in the grain turns to sugar and produces alcohol.
Whisky is a spirit made from just three ingredients – barley, yeast and water. Single malt Scotch is a unique type of whisky that is protected under law. SPELLING To ‘e’ or not to ‘e’. The ‘e’ in whiskey usually refers to whiskies produced in Ireland and the US. The rest of the world tends to use the spelling without the ‘e’ including Scotch whisky.
HOW TO BEST ENJOY AERSTONE
UNDERSTANDING WHISKY-ESE
AGE What does it mean when a whisky is a five-year-old compared to a ten-year-old 15-year-old or 18-year-old? The age reference refers to the time the whisky has spent maturing in cask, the time between distillation and bottling.
SCOTCH Scotch is a term used for whisky produced in Scotland. To be labeled Scotch, the whisky needs to have matured for a minimum of three years in oak casks and is distilled at least twice.
EMBRACING TECHNOLOGY FOR A NEW AGE AILSA BAY SCOTCH WHISKY
A high tech distillery, Ailsa Bay is operated by just one technician Ailsa Bay 1.2 with a visual representation of the data extracted from the distillation process
The current release, Ailsa Bay Release 1.2 is scientifically distilled at 022 phenol parts per million (PPM) and 019 ‘sweet’ parts per million (SPPM), measured and assessed prior to bottling and guaranteeing the Ailsa whisky unique taste profile. This gives the perfect balance between the peat and sweetness defining the flavour profile and taste of Ailsa Bay made possible by the advances of technology.
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Blockchain acts as an open ledger managed publicly so nothing can be changed or tampered. In the case of Ailsa Bay, blockchain data including cask types, filling dates and bottling dates are collected from William Grant & Sons.
By scanning a QR code, users are presented with a visual history of their whisky, produced using digitally created art generated by blockchain data unique to the drink’s journey. Ailsa Bay is the champion of innovation in the whisky space. The blockchain technology is another step towards the future of whisky consumer engagement while its micromaturation for rapid and intense maturation, and the measuring labelling that displays both the PPM (Phenol Parts per Million) and SPPM (Sweet Parts Per Million), brings a new way of thinking to a traditional drink.
In short, consumers and Ailsa Bay whisky connoisseurs can indulge their passion for their favourite dram beyond the sensory experience of drinking; they can trace the origins of their whisky via an innovative web experience, which is individually tailored to each bottle.
The PPM is the precise measurement of the ‘phenol’ content in parts per million. The higher the ‘phenol’ levels the peatier the whisky while Ailsa Bay is the first whisky to have its sweetness analysed and measured. This was borne through a revolutionary process developed by Master Blender Brian Kinsman.
A relatively young distillery, Ailsa Bay was opened in 2007 by William Grant & Sons on the Girvan site in Ayrshire. This largely automated distillery produces up to four whiskies a year, each with their unique style and meticulously created through world first distilling techniques.
Ailsa Bay is the only whisky in the world to be created based on an industry-first “sweetness” index which pin points the sweetness of the whisky. This complements a precise calculation of the peat absorbed within the liquid to create the perfect balance between smokiness and sweetness – all driven by advanced technology.
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It also uses a process called a micro-maturation, a technique where the new spirit is first kept in small Hudson bourbon casks to age for up to nine months. By ‘cask starting’ rather than ‘cask finishing’ the malt, whisky scientists can then layer on a complex matrix of flavours, taking the liquid through rapid, intense maturation and incorporating varying levels of sweetness and smokiness. In 2019 Ailsa Bay has taken its ethos further into the future and launched the world’s first ever blockchain whisky in partnership with blockchain specialist company arc-net.
One of the largest Single Malt Distilleries in the world, Ailsa Bay produces up to 12 million litres of single malt per year, but what distinguishes this distillery and whisky from the mainstream is its production methods. Ailsa Bay embraces the latest technology and data driven methods to produce whisky that is scientifically distilled to push the boundaries of flavour and taste.
Ailsa Bay’s use of blockchain captures the full distilling and manufacturing process so customers can track their whisky from source to store; exposing through technology the whisky’s authenticity through its traceable production life.
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The fruit forward character of The BenRiach is equally enhanced by the onion shaped stills that run at a gentle simmer using a time-honoured and tailored fruit- forward distillation process fine tuned over the decades since 1965 when The BenRiach reopened. This process intensifies the stone fruit flavours and sweet barley character that is central to the taste of The BenRiach spirit.
The old yet young innovative distillery in the heart of Speyside, BenRiach was first established in 1898. The founder was John Duff who was an explorer and an adventurer and brought a certain avantgarde sensibility to Speyside. His methods were unconventional and experimental and pushed the boundaries of traditional distilling and malt alchemy. He inspired the current guardians of The BenRiach and the modern whiskies they distil today.
The contemporary expression of The BenRiach is a rich, fruit-forward Speyside Single Malt that sings with an abundance of stone fruit flavours, enticing sweetness and toasted oak spice, all dancing on the tongue together in sublime synchronicity.
When it comes to maturation The BenRiach is rich in resources because at the heart of the distillery is the oldest, earthern floored, stone walled dunnage warehouse that is home to a treasure trove of the most diverse and rarest casks in Speyside. Warehouse 13, as it is known, is an integral thread in the rich tapestry that creates The BenRiach’s awardwinning malts. Always aiming to enrich and expand their Single Malt Whisky offering, this year The BenRiach has added a 12 Year Old and a 21 Year Old to its peated range. Both will express the history and embody the story of The BenRiach Distillery, Speyside.
The BenRiach distils three malt whisky styles – unpeated, peated and triple distilled and boasts some of the most experimental casks in Speyside. It is also one of only two distilleries in Speyside to use malt from their own on-site malting floor in the production of its single malts. This is a time-honoured craft that is seasonally celebrated for one month a year at the beginning of Spring. Indeed, it was this malting floor that kept The BenRiach alive during a hiatus that saw it close for many years. Neighbouring distillery Longmoor kept it in use and doing so kept the spririt of The BenRiach alive. It is not just the malting floor that makes this Speyside distiller special, it is believed The Benriach holds the oldest peated whiskies in Speyside dating back to the 1970s and a cask inventory dating back to 1966. The distillery is renowned for its creative approach to cask maturation but is also unique in other methods such as its approach to water mashing. The mashing of barley at The BenRiach is done at a gentle simmer using fourwater infusion rather than the usual three. This process is time consuming but essential to drawing out the essence of The BenRiach style. It allows maximum sweetness to be extracted from the barley and brings out the whisky’s sweet fruit flavour.
THE BENRIACH MALTOLOGISTS WITH AN EXPERIMENTAL EDGE
THE STORIES OF THE BALVENIE
Founded by the great William Grant himself in 1886 and today run by his direct descendants, The Balvenie Distillery is an award-winning family-owned distillery steeped in history. It owes its success to natural alchemy and the centuries-old craftsmanship that makes The Balvenie uniquely special among single malts.
David Stewart MBE holding his 26 year old Day of Dark Barley
The Balvenie’s signature style is rich, smooth and luxurious, a distinct expression of the distillery’s commitment to the Five Rare Crafts. Staying true to the traditional methods of whisky making is central to the distillery’s desire to make the highest quality whisky. It is the only distillery that still grows its own barley, uses traditional floor maltings and keeps both coppersmiths, and a team of coopers on site. All this combined with the passion and dedication and exceptional skill of its Malt Master, David C. Stewart MBE is why The Balvenie is known as one of the world’s most hand-crafted single-malts.
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This year a trio of new releases will bring this incredible history, passion and endeavour to life. The Balvenie Stories is a range of exclusively crafted single-malt whiskies that evoke the people, the craft and the commitment of The Balvenie Distillery. In today’s technology-obsessed world, The Balvenie Stories represents and celebrates human creativity, skill, passion and emotion over machine and automation. This range of whiskies embodies historical and rich tales that speak of time and alchemy; they tell the story.
The notion of storytelling that has inspired this range has also inspired the team to deliver the tales in audio as well as through the sense of taste. For a true immersion into The Balvenie Stories, pour a glass and be transported to Dufftown, Scotland via NFC-enabled tags on each bottle of The Balvenie Stories range, whisky lovers can use their smartphone to go on an audio journey. To learn more about The Balvenie Stories collection, head online to http://www. thebalvenie.com/stories.
A DAY OF DARK BARLEY
Brian Webster and Robbie Gormley Apprentice Malt Master Kelsey McKechnie shares a story over her dram
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THE WEEK OF PEAT Aged 14 Years – 48.3% ABV
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THE SWEET TOAST OF AMERICAN OAK Aged 12 Years – 43% ABV
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This Balvenie Story represents what happens when a new and fresh idea is introduced amongst tried and true techniques. This is the story of a young gun, newly appointed Apprentice Malt Master by the name of Kelsey McKechnie who was inspired to use twice-toasted white American oak discovered on a visit to Kelvin Cooperage in Louisville, Kentucky. The result is a fruitier, sweeter tasting Balvenie.
This is the tale of Malt Master David Stewart MBE and The Balvenie’s Maltman Robbie Gormley with Mashman Brian Webster, experimenting with heavily roasted dark barley in 1992. Originally released in 2006 as the 14-Year-Old Balvenie Roasted Malt, casks were retained for extra maturation and became this classic aged Balvenie with extra depth and oak notes from the darker malt.
“STORIES ARE THE LIFEBLOOD OF THE BALVENIE DISTILLERY. THEY MAKE UP THE FABRIC OF WHO WE ARE AND WHAT WE DO. EACH EXPRESSION IN THE COLLECTION REFLECTS THIS BY TELLING ITS OWN STORY VIA FIRST-HAND ACCOUNTS AND RECOLLECTIONS OF THE MANY PEOPLE INVOLVED” - THE BALVENIE MALT MASTER DAVID STEWART MBE. THE BALVENIE STORIES COLLECTION INCLUDES THREE DIFFERENT EXPRESSIONS
Aged 26 Years – 47.8% ABV
This expression is an evolution of The Balvenie Peat Week Aged 14 Years launched in 2017. It tells the tale of Malt Master David Stewart MBE and former distillery manager Ian Millar getting lost in their passion whilst on a week’s gap in the distillery’s production schedule. They started experimenting with peat in the barley drying process. The result is a distinctive whisky expression of honey, vanilla and citrus notes with a layer of delicate smokiness.
Any whisky appreciated by Luke Skywalker, Samuel L Jackson and a Kingsman must be a bit special. Fans of popular culture will recognise the references to the first Kingsman film, when an attempted rescue by a Kingsman of the kidnapped professor, played by Hamill, goes wrong as Jackson and his henchwoman turn up. Everyone takes time to sip on a 1962 Dalmore and, really, why wouldn’t you? After all, the last time a bottle was sold was 2011, when it fetched a mere £125,000.
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The distillery has four washes in two sizes (three at 13,000 litres and one double that), four stills (again varying sizes with one twice the size of the others) and a capacity of 4,200,000 litres. Water comes from the River Alness. Maturation takes place in American white oak bourbon casks and also aged sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass, hand-selected by Master Distiller Richard Paterson. It is believed that these sherry casks give the whiskies their characteristic nutty, spicy, citrus and ginger notes, while the bourbon casks provide more vanilla, honey and tropical fruit touches. ‘The Mackenzie’, one of their many prestige releases, sees time in aged port pipes from Oporto.
Dalmore has more than earnt is reputation as one of the very great Scottish distilleries.
‘Sirius’ is also from the 1951 vintage, but only twelve decanters were made. The ‘Oculus’ is even rarer. A blend of malts from 1868, 1878, 1922, 1926, 1939 and 1951, only one single bottle, as a Baccarat crystal decanter, was produced. There are plenty more prestige whiskies in their portfolio.
The Dalmore Distillery, located at Alness, 30 kilometers north of Inverness, was constructed back in 1839 by Alexander Matheson, and immediately leased to the Sutherland family. Then from 1869, the Mackenzie brothers took up the lease – the iconic 12-point stag crest of the family has been retained and is seen on every bottle of Dalmore. The crest dates back to the 13th century when Colin, chief of the Mackenzie clan, saved King Alexander III of Scotland from a charging stag and was granted the right to the crest.
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The distillery was a success, though it hit some problems when, in 1917, the Royal Navy started using the next door firth for producing deepsea mines. An incident in 1920, incident being a euphemism for ‘massive explosion and subsequent fire’, destroyed most of the distillery. Lawyers became involved, and the matter even went to the House of Lords. Production recommenced in 1922. In 1960, the Mackenzie family finally sold to one of their main customers, Whyte & Mackay. Dalmore produced a single, single malt for many years, their 12-Year-Old, but more recently, the range has expanded to include 15, 18 and 25-Year-Old malts, several no-age whiskies and some stunning prestige releases. These are highly regarded by collectors and aficionados, and often bring seriously high prices, sometimes five, even six, figures. Put simply, Dalmore is considered to be one of the very finest of all Highland distilleries.
Consider some of these releases and it becomes obvious why they are so highly desired and achieve such impressive prices. The ‘Trinitas’ is a 64 -Year-Old single malt, blended from some of the world’s rarest whiskies from 1868, 1878, 1926 and 1939. Only three bottles were made, with each selling for between £100,000 and £120,000.
‘Eos’ was a blend of two sherry casks from 1951, as was the ‘Selene’.
ADDRESS: Dalmore Alness, Highlands and Islands, Alness IV17 0UT, Scotland T: +44 1349 882362 W: www.thedalmore.com FOCUSTHE
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DALMORE KING, A CHARGING STAG AND THE CLAN MCKENZIE
The GlenAllachie Distillery was one of many distilleries built in Scotland as a direct result of the whisky boom of the 1960s. Driven mainly by the US market, it was the whisky-loving Don Drapers in the wood panelled offices of Chicago, LA and New York, reaching into their teak cabinets to pour dram after dram into crystal tumblers, who were responsible, in an era when you could do that sort of thing.
Recently the distillery launched a limited edition range of wood finishes including a 10 year old Port Wood Finish and the 12 year old Pedro Ximenez Sherry Wood Finish. Billy Walker selected barrels from among the 50,000 casks in the 16 warehouses at the distillery, for the additional maturation period.
The GlenAllachie Distillery might have been born in the 1960s but it is yet to realise its full potential. Who says life doesn’t start at 50.
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The vision of the three is for the quality of the whisky to always be the top priority. They want to write a new story for the brand whilst introducing the world to the old but new, GlenAllachie Speyside Single Malts. Lightness is a characteristic of most of the distilleries that were built in the 1960s, however, the new ownership are relaunching GlenAllachie as a distillery known for its ‘big’, fruity malt whisky. That includes lengthening fermentation times to add an enhanced fruitiness and more structured and full-bodied quality to the final spirit.
Established in 1967 in Speyside, Aberlour, the GlenAllachie Distillery was built by Scottish & Newcastle Breweries’ distilling subsidiary, Mackinlay Macpherson. In 1989 the distillery was sold to Campbell Distillers/Pernod Ricard. Throughout the 50 years of production GlenAllachie had never been nurtured as a single However,malt.in 2017 the distillery took an exciting turn when three industry veterans came together and purchased the GlenAllachie Distillery. With over 100 years of experience between them, Billy Walker, Trisha Savage and Graham Stevenson are injecting new life and enthusiasm into the distillery. They are on a path to create a new legacy for the GlenAllachie Single Malt brand. A capital ‘A’ was added to the distillery name, in keeping with the changes Walker made to BenRiach and GlenDronach under his stewardship. So far the new chapter for the distillery has produced a new core range of 10, 12, 18 and 25 year old whisky released in 2018 as well as six additional hand-picked single cask released to celebrate 50 years since the first date of production in February 1968. All the whiskies are natural in colour, non-chill-filtered and bottled at a minimum of 46% ABV. Master Distiller, Billy Walker was thrilled with the vast amount of aged stock they inherited with the purchase, some dating back to the 1970s. He says they have been given the gift of time.
MAD MEN AND SINGLE MALTS
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by Col. James Moir, Glenglassaugh was a small coastal outpost distillery that produced quality whiskies. Its success brought it to the attention of Highland Distillers and it was purchased in 1892, but 17 years later the distillery closed and remained so until 1931 when it reopened for a five year burst before closing down again. In 1960 it was completely rebuilt and experienced a prosperous 26 years in full production until it once again, it shut its doors in 1986. In 2008, the distillery’s fortune changed. It was bought by the Scaent Group, a group of investors who went about revitalising a distillery that many considered beyond resurrection.
TURBULENT TIMES BRINGS THIS COASTAL HIGHLAND DISTILLERY INTO A NEW ERA GLENGLASSAUGH
In the Highlands of Scotland, at the east end of the magestic Sandend Bay stands the Glenglassaugh Distillery. It is small and unassuming and its past paints a turbulent timeline of openings and closings, stopstarts and stalled progression, but today reveals a new era for this Highland Single Malt Foundedproducer.in1875
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This was the beginning of the new Glenglassaugh. Old vintages were released to the public that had been ageing in the dormant warehouses over its long period of closure. They gave a glimpse of the distillery’s turbulent history and on release received global praise. The long-aged whiskies were awarded Gold Medals and Trophies at the International Wine & Spirits Challenge for Best Cask Strength Malt and Best 40 year-old Malt. They were fresh, vibrant and exciting, and along with newly produced non-aged expressions, heralded in a new era for Glenglassaugh.
The distillery tour at Glenglassaugh is particularly special and worth a visit. Visitors walk through the distillery’s checkered history, are guided through the whisky making process and learn about the importance of place and proximity to the sea on the whisky. After viewing the casks in the distillery’s coastal warehouses, visitors are encouraged to enjoy a dram of the Glenglassagh signature whisky, Revival Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky, while sitting on the beach, breathing in the sea air for the full sensory experience of Glenglassaugh.
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The BenRiach Distillery Company took ownership of the revitalised distillery in 2013 with even further plans to nurture and develop the future of Glenglassaugh. Glenglassaugh brings the best of its past and combines this with the sensibilities of modern distilling. It is produced to the highest standard with quality Scottish barley while employing traditional distilling methods. The key focus for Glenglassaugh is to be true to its roots and honour its style by continuing to handcraft its Scotch whisky in small batches resisting the common and convenient modern approach of automation. The finest casks are selected to mature slowly in the coastal warehouses on Sandend Bay. Glenglassaugh, after unstable beginnings, now finds itself at the forefront of innovation and cutting edge distilling practices inspiring others in its path. Since the distillery has been revitalised it has released Torfa Single Malt, its first peated whisky fully matured in ex-bourbon barrels and peated to 20ppm, and Evolution, a whisky matured in a unique combination of the finest hand-picked ex-Tennessee first-fill whiskey barrels. The future of Glenglassaugh is bright as it strides confidently into the 21st century with a new vigour and contemporary expression.
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17,000KM FROM DUFFTOWN
William Grant’s innovative nature is reflected in the Glenfiddich journey through the decades and today is no exception. In an Australian first, Glenfiddich has unveiled the first nationwide whisky bus tour. Aptly named the Glenfiddich Whisky Wanderer, it is a luxury whisky lounge on wheels. The 1972 vintage Leyland two-story bus is grand in its presence. It stands at four metres tall and is ten metres long. It is fitted with a high-class premium bar and hydraulic pop-up roof and is adorned with a glinting copper stag head, the emblem of the Glenfiddich Single Malt Scotch Whisky that appears on every bottle.
Glenfiddich BrandLukeAmbassador,Sanderson
Glenfiddich whisky is the story of William Grant who had a dream to make the ‘best dram in the valley’ in Dufftown, the Scottish Highlands. Driven by passion and vision and with a dash of tenaciousness, he set off to build a distillery by hand.
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The result was Glenfiddich, Gaelic for ‘valley of the deer’. That was in 1887. Since then Glenfiddich has received more awards than any other single malt Scotch whisky, making it officially the world’s most awarded. Now they’ve launched a luxury whisky lounge on wheels and plan to travel across the country to share their beloved dram with Australians far and wide. Now they’ve launched a luxury whisky lounge on wheels and plan to travel across the country to share their beloved dram with Australians far and wide.
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The biggest dedicated whisky tour ever to be staged in Australia will continue for at least three years and travel more than 9000kms across the country. The focus for 2019 is the East Coast but plans are to get the Whisky Wanderer to other corners of Australia, stopping at food and music festivals, liquor retail outlets and shopping centres. Guests of the Whisky Wanderer experience intimate spirit tastings and delectable food pairings. The sessions offer something for everyone, an introduction to whisky for the novice and something new for the whisky enthusiast. Every tasting on board begins with the heart of the family distillery, the Glenfiddich 12 Year Old. Glenfiddich Brand Ambassador, Luke Sanderson, is host of the entire journey and shares his exceptional whisky expertise with inquisitive whisky lovers across the country.
Glenfiddich launched its personalised labels on board the Whisky Wanderer
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“Glenfiddich is renowned worldwide for its mastery and innovation, so we wanted to share this appreciation by bringing a hint of our Scottish Highlands distillery to life in Australia,” Sanderson said. “The Glenfiddich Whisky Wanderer is the ultimate whisky dream, moving across the country and sharing a taste of the Glenfiddich craft and innovation.”
On the Whisky Wanderer, guests have the opportunity to learn the fundamentals of whisky. They learn about the story of Glenfiddich from Scotland to the world. A wide sample range of malts is available for tasting. Sanderson is on hand to share his expertise and encourage lively discussion around the nuances of the world’s most awarded single malt Scotch whisky. Follow the Glenfiddich Whisky Wanderer and its Australian adventures on Instagram @gfwhiskywanderer 1886. William Grant, a then shoe maker set about building a distillery with his seven sons and two daughters. Together they began building his Distillery by hand, stone by stone. After a single year of work it was ready and William named it Glenfiddich, Gaelic for Valley of the Deer. 1963. Sandy Grant Gordon, great grandson of William, makes Glenfiddich the first to be actively promote single malt outside Scotland. Consumers around the world used to drinking blended whisky, are initiated to single malt and a new category is born. 1998. Glenfiddich 15 Year Old Solera Vat is developed. The whisky is mellowed in a unique Solera Vat, a large oak tun inspired by the sherry bodegas of Spain and Portugal. Never emptied, and kept half full of whiskies since 1998 it is like a master stock for whisky and the Solera Vat becomes the first 15 year old expression to enter the top ten best selling single malts. 2016. Glenfiddich launched the Experimental Series, and with it The IPA Experiment, the world’s first single malt Scotch whisky finished in bespoke craft IPA beer barrels.
The first-of-its-kind Whisky Wanderer embodies William Grant’s pioneering spirit and innovative nature with an initiative that will delight whisky lovers and newcomers to the category. It is travelling the country spreading the story of Glenfiddich and its treasured tales while celebrating the spirit of single malt Scotch whisky. The Whisky Wanderer is bringing the art of the single malt to lovers of whisky.
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2017. in a collaboration with renowned Peller Estates winery in Canada, Winter Storm is a 23 year old aged whisky finished in Canadian ice wine barrels. 2019. Fire & Cane is released. Inspired by the early innovation of Glenfiddich Malt Master Brian Kinsman, who in 2003, first ran peated spirit through the Glenfiddich stills, the whisky is then finished in Latin rum casks to produce a surprising overlay of added caramel toffee sweetness.
A LIFETIME INNOVATIONOF
One of Australia’s greatest food mavericks, Matt Moran joined Sanderson for the launch of the tour. The celebrity chef was delighted to be indulging his other great passion of whisky. He said it was Glenfiddich’s philosophy for possibilities and innovation that drew him into the “Glenfiddichpartnership.and I share a like-minded passion to push boundaries and continually strive to reach new heights,” Moran explained.
THE SIX PILLARS OF The Macallan
The master distiller at The Macallan takes only the finest quality of spirit from its stills because he is looking for the best quality of the cut. The master distiller carefully scrutinises every drop that goes toward a bottle of The Macallan for its viscous mouth-feel, and fruity aroma and flavour. This distinctive ‘new make’ spirit fresh from the stills is the beginning of the signature style that makes The Macallan unique amongst single malts.
SMALL STILLS
SPIRITUAL HOME The first pillar is around place, the spiritual home of The Macallan. The house that stands at the centre of The Macallan Estate is central to the workings of the distillery. Easter Elchies House was built in 1700 from locally quarried sandstone for Captain John Grant. It is one of the finest examples of a Highland manor house, and its grounds are farmed with sensitivity and in harmony with the natural environment.
The Macallan is today one of the world’s leading single malt whiskies. Its quality and distinctive character are founded on six guiding principles called The Six Pillars. These are the foundation stones of the brand’s character and rich spirit. They speak of a strong sense of place combined with almost 200 years of maturing and perfecting this exceptional single malt Scotch whisky. The pillars are the symbols of the strength of belonging and each contributes to the essence of The Macallan.
THE FINEST CUT
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Founded in 1824 by barley farmer and school teacher, Alexander Reid, The Macallan was one of the first distillers in Scotland to hold a legal licence. The distillery is nestled in the banks of the river Spey in Speyside, north-west Scotland, and sits amongst 485 verdant green acres with the Highland manor, Easter Elchies House at its heart. The name Macallan has evolved from the Gallic, magh, meaning fertile ground, and Ellan after the monk St. Fillan who was associated with the church that once stood on the grounds of The Macallan Estate.
The Macallan’s stills are amongst the smallest used in Speyside. The unique size and shape of the stills allows the spirit to have maximum contact with the copper, concentrating the newly made spirit and providing the rich, fruity, full-bodied flavour that is characteristic of The Macallan. There are 24 of these small stills in The Macallan distillery holding an initial charge of 3,900 litres.
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NATURAL COLOUR
The creation of the new distillery embodies this philosophy and marries heritage with The Macallan’s future. Designed by acclaimed architects, Roger Stirk Harbour + Partners, the new distillery shares The Macallan acreage with its Spiritual Home, Easter Elchies House.
The final of the six pillars is the drive to create unsurpassed quality single malts through the combination of place, people, passion and the careful nurtured approach to producing The Macallan Single Malt whiskies. These peerless spirits are savoured and enjoyed by whisky lovers the world over.
Maturation in cask is essential to the journey of any quality single malt and The Macallan is renowned for its exceptional oak casks. It is The Macallan’s mastery of wood and spirit that delivers quality and spice to The Macallan whiskies. Under the watchful eye and guidance of the Master of Wood, specifications unique to The Macallan craft the oak casks. They are responsible for contributing 80 per cent of the colour, aroma and flavour of the final whisky. It is for this reason The Macallan spends time and investment into the quality of its casks. Sourcing, crafting, toasting, seasoning and caring for the casks are of the highest priority. The quality of the casks determines the final character, flavour, quality and style of the whisky, and this is why the wood is the fourth pillar for The Macallan.
The Macallan is proud of the diversity of whiskies it produces and the natural colour each display as a result of time in cask. All of The Macallan whiskies gain their rich and natural colour from maturation in cask alone. From the lightest oak to the darkest mahogany, The Macallan casks impart naturally unique colour that is fixed and does not fade in sunlight as does its artificial counterparts. Every tree and every wood is different and this is evident in the kaleidoscope of The Macallan range. Achieving this vibrancy and consistency of natural colour in The Macallan whiskies requires great talent, skill and experience from the master distiller. This spectrum of natural colour is central to the fifth pillar for quality.
Built into the sloping hills of the estate it is more than just a distillery, it is a striking piece of contemporary architecture symbolising the birthplace of the brand and its whisky while championing a new era for The Macallan.
Tours of the new Distillery, Boutique and Visitor Experiences can be booked online at themacallan.com.
OAK CASKS
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The Macallan Distillery today pays homage to the old traditions while advancing toward new horizons. The brand represents tradition through the raw material, the production method and the commitment to excellence, while also embracing an innovative vision.
PEERLESS SPIRIT
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World whiskey is in the ascendancy and from Sydney to Seattle new distilleries are springing up. But what about the old guard? Nowhere is the marriage between old and new happier than it is in Louisville, Kentucky. Dominic Roskrow reports.
EXPLORE AMERICANWHISKEY
Louisville - pronounced Lew-e-ville - is Kentucky’s main city, and it is the gateway to the South. Across the River Ohio is Illinois, but Louisville’s culture is distinctly Southern, from the accent to the music, and from the attitude to the culture. But it is also a hipster paradise, a college city with two respected college American Football teams, and it is liberal and Democrat in a State defined by its conservatism and Republicanism. And it just didn’t do bourbon. Ten years ago you’d have struggled to find any reference to whiskey here, or to be able to source fine bourbon from a drinks menu dominated by international wines and the odd craft beer or two. What a difference a decade makes. Louisville is a city transformed, and as it gears up to offer more than 5000 new hotel rooms and to turn its downtown district in to a whiskey lovers’ paradise, it is not only set to provide a launchpad
WHAT HAPPENED?
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When the Frazier Museum in downtown Louisville, Kentucky, unveiled its high tech interactive bourbon visitor experience last year, it marked the most dramatic volte-face since Saul had a bright light moment on the road to Damascus. It says something when you produce some of the world’s finest whiskey but you’re better known for your fried chicken. Or when you have a dozen amazing bourbon distilleries but you’re overshadowed by one whiskey producer to the South in Tennessee. That’s how it is in Kentucky though. Or was. Fly into the State’s biggest city a decade ago and you’d have been hard pressed to find any reference to bourbon or its producers. Bourbon wasn’t exactly a dirty word, but it was about as relevant to the people of Louisville as Aussie Rules is to the residents of Taipei. Or come to think of it, anyone outside Australia. You want bourbon, buddy? Bardstown’s that way… A few years back bourbon was dead in the water, its sedate, traditional gentlemanly old ways in danger of being swept aside by hundreds of new upstart micro distilleries. Now though, Hollywood actor Matthew McConaughey and heavy rock giants Metallica have their own bourbon brands, and the spirit is as hip as any other drink on the planet.
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NOT ANY MORE.
If you ever want a metaphor for the changing fortune of bourbon in general and American whiskey in general, it’s the State of Kentucky. It’s home to the likes of Jim Beam, Buffalo Trace, Woodford Reserve and Maker’s Mark. But the distilleries are scattered over the State, hidden away in beautiful glades and pretty countryside.
The small town of Bardstown, with its quaint but old-fashioned bourbon museum and annual bourbon festival, has long laid claim to being bourbon’s spiritual home.
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Just down the road The Frazier History Museum it has become the jewel in the bourbon whiskey crown. It unveiled a visitor experience a year ago that is the centre point for all the State’s distilleries and Louisville’s urban experience. It is designed and built by the people who created the Guinness Experience in Dublin, and it uses new technology- effectively a giant touch screen interactive iPad - to link up the famous families of bourbon, and explain the spirit’s history in an immersible and interactive way.
for bourbon to the rest of the world, but to offer fans of the spirit the perfect haven to indulge themselves in.
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When craft distilling took a hold in the country, Kentucky’ distillers either took no notice or dismissed the upstarts out of hand. Louisville’s Whiskey Row, a stretch of preserved old buildings, had remained derelict, and a sad reminder of a long gone era.
“A decade ago there was little interest in bourbon,” says Katie Kubitskey of the city’s tourist bureau Go To Louisville. “There was no urban bourbon trail and when it was set up, it had five members. Now it has 35 and we’re turning people away. Bourbon has become the beating heart of the city. And Whiskey Row has come alive. The Evan Williams Visitor Experience has opened there, Old Forester and Michter’s are making whiskey again, and new distilleries such as Peerless and Angel’s Envy have launched new whiskeys.”
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FEATURE “We intend to provide a one stop shop for whiskey tourists to the city,” says president and chief executive Penelope Peavler. “For the first time ever all the dots are being joined up and bourbon has a focal point where tourists can plan their bourbon experience both in the city and across the state. The new interactive experience allows for us to archive stories, and as visitors come they can add to the story. Eventually it will be an information point without equal.” Most exciting of all for whiskey fans, though, is the way bourbon is evolving and is set to unleash new flavours and styles on the world of whisky. Bourbon is governed by rules even stricter than those for Scotch. But the two new kids on the block in Louisville are set to push out the envelope. Angel’s Envy was set up by the late Lincoln Henderson, the former master distiller at Woodford Reserve, and his sons. With a third generation of Hendersons now on board, the distillery is now exporting fine spirits described as ‘bourbon finished in a port barrels’ and ‘rye finished in rum barrels.’ Not bourbon or rye, then, but great whiskeys nevertheless. Round the corner from Whiskey Row is Kentucky Peerless, which is making bourbon - but not totally in a traditional way, and it is not scared of taking risks.
Chairman and chief executive Corky Taylor proudly states that he is a fourth generation whiskey maker, pointing to his great great grandfather’s whiskey business, established in the late 19the century. That doesn’t mean he’s playing it safe though. Peerless makes its bourbon without using the traditional sour mash process, and it is casking its spirit at a lower strength than is normal for bourbon producers - in the mid 50s ABV rather than the traditional 62% plus. The finished product has just been released, but an excellent rye has been making waves for more than a year now. “We think we are bringing fresh thinking to bourbon,” says Taylor. “There’s a lot of excitement here among our team. We think bourbon has a new and exciting story to tell.” This is just the beginning of what promised to be an amazing time for American whiskey. And the good old boys and the new kids in town are doing it hand in hand. Bring it on!
In 1987, Thomas E. Bulleit, Jr., fulfilled a lifelong dream of reviving an old family bourbon recipe by starting the Bulleit Distilling Company. Inspired by his great-great-grandfather Augustus Bulleit, who made a high-rye whiskey between 1830-1860, Tom left a successful law practice and risked everything to experience life on the frontier. Today, we’re not the only ones who are glad he did.
A tavern keeper in 1830s Louisville, Kentucky, Augustus Bulleit was dedicated to a single goal: the creation of a bourbon unique in flavor. After experimenting with countless varieties, he finally came upon a bourbon with the character he had long sought after.
One fateful day, while transporting his barrels of bourbon from Kentucky to New Orleans, Augustus Bulleit vanished. What happened is still unknown, and his creation nearly disappeared into history along with him.
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BULLEITtraditionallyIt’sBourbonBOURBONDIDYOUKNOW?canonlybeproducedintheUnitedStates(notjustKentucky).madefromamashbillofatleast51percentcornandthenmaturedinabrandnewcharredoakbarrel.Theinspirationforthenameofthissouthernspiritisstilldebated:itwaseitherinspiredbyBourbonCounty,KentuckyorBourbonStreetinNewOrleans.Thisiswhatmakeswhiskey,“bourbon”.
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A LEGEND TODAY To this day, Bulleit™ Bourbon is distilled and aged in the Bulleit family tradition. Kentucky limestone-filtered water provides a foundation for the bourbon’s character, while charred American oak barrels lend a smoky backbone.
Our aging philosophy is simple: we wait until our bourbon is ready.
As Bulleit enthusiasts know, rye has always been our cornerstone. In this tradition, we’re proud to present Bulleit™ Rye – a straight rye whiskey made from 95 per cent rye and 5 per cent malted barley. It’s a whiskey with unparalleled spice and complexity.
KENTUCKY
Bulleit Bourbon is inspired by the whiskey pioneered by Augustus Bulleit over 150 years ago. Only ingredients of the very highest quality are used. The subtlety and complexity of Bulleit Bourbon come from its unique blend of rye, corn, and barley malt, along with special strains of yeast and pure Kentucky limestone filtered water. Due to its especially high rye content, Bulleit Bourbon has a bold, spicy character with a finish that’s distinctively clean and smooth. Medium amber in color, with gentle spiciness and sweet oak aromas. Mid-palate is smooth with tones of maple, oak, and nutmeg. Finish is long, dry, and satiny with a light toffee flavour.
Tour Tuesday:Monday:Hours:9am-4.30pmVisitorCenter closed Wednesday-Saturday: 9am -4.30PM Sunday: 11am to 4.30pm Closed on all major holidays For groups larger than 10 –call ahead +1 931 408 2410 It will cost you around $14USD per person. Keep in mind you must be 21+ to sample
Cascade Hollow is off the beaten track, you’ll likely need your GPS to find it, but the effort is worth it. Come tour the distillery and learn how George Dickel Tennessee Whisky is handmade the hard way through a fully operational distillery and barrel house. When arriving at 1950 Cascade Hollow Road, Tullahoma, Tennessee 37388 you’ll be stepping back in time and greeted with the warm Tennessee spirit. Book in advance at www.georgedickel.com to get your spot on the 1 hour tour around the working distillery and barrel house followed by a complimentary portfolio tasting.
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To paraphrase that old advert, ‘whiskies ain’t whiskies’. There was a time when pretty much your choice was limited to which Scottish whisky you preferred, with the possibility to try Irish. Discussion about the origins of the spirit were about as contentious as American politics or State of Origin selections and best left well alone.
WORDS KEN GARGETT
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WHISKY IS IN A GOLDEN AGE
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So, whisky or whiskey? Scotch or Irish, and suddenly there was Japanese, even local whiskies, Indian, Canadian, Taiwanese and more. Bourbon, Tennessee or rye? Vintage products. Single malt, blended, grain whiskies. Aged whiskies went from a curious niche product to wildly expensive and musthave Whiskydrinks.may have become complicated, but it also became infinitely more complex, interesting and exotic. Meanwhile, the great whiskies of Scotland just seemed to get better. Now, with some serious shortages of aged material imposing itself on many producers in many regions, there is yet more to First,consider.andIsay this as one who recently transgressed whisky etiquette by using the term, ‘bourbon’, more liberally than
Needless to say, whisky’s origins are much debated – Ireland (where whisky apparently translates from Gaelic as ‘water of life’, and that alone should be enough to give the Emerald Isle the nod) has claims. Scotland. Even Arabia. The Old Bushmills Distillery in Northern Ireland can point to a licence to distill which was issued to it in 1608, making it the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world. Innovation and experimentation went hand in hand with the developing spirits production of the time. Pot stills, the Coffey still, so much more. Thereafter follows a wonderful tale of bootleggers, illegal distilleries, unjust taxes, Prohibition, rebellions and more, eventually leading us to the heavily regulated industry we ‘enjoy’ today. So, whisky or whiskey? Perhaps it was just something that grew over time, like color and colour. Others are adamant that whether or not there is that ‘e’ should assist in the definition of style, which seems like a lot of responsibility to dump on a poor single vowel. Common usage has the ‘e’ in products from the States and Ireland, while the rest of the world gets by without it. In the end, good luck finding a hard and fast rule for all. Stick to whatever the producer uses, is a rule that works.
BYWORLDRESTWHILEIRELAND,STATESFROMPRODUCTSTHEUSAGECOMMONHAS‘E’INTHEANDTHEOFTHEGETSWITHOUT IT.
The grain can be malted and a number of varieties are used – rye, wheat, corn, barley, for example. There will be ageing in wooden casks, with charred white oak the usual receptacle. These can be second-use casks, which is why you might see references to sherry, port, Sauternes or other drinks on the label. Regulations abound, but of course, they vary from country to country, even region to region.
strict regulations would prefer, it is worth understanding where all the styles fit into the jigsaw that is whisky (or whiskey).
We are basically talking about variations on a theme – the theme being an alcoholic drink, usually at least 40 per cent, made by distillation, using a fermented grain mash.
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‘Scotch’, obviously from Scotland, needs to be distilled at least twice, though can be many more times, and to have spent a minimum of three years in oak. There are defined regions in Scotland for the
108 Malt or grain? If your whisky is made from malted barley, we have a malt whisky, which needs to be produced from pot stills. Otherwise, we have a grain whisky, which can be distilled in column stills, though these are considered to impart less flavour. Single malt whisky will come from a defined distillery using a particular malted grain. Single cask whisky obviously comes from one particular cask. A blended malt is a blend of various malts – it was formerly known as a vatted malt. Blended whisky is basically all in. Cask strength (barrel proof) whiskies are becoming more popular among aficionados. They are, as the name suggests, bottled straight from the cask without any dilution. The ageing of the whiskies in barrel also add another dimension, with older bottlings usually Whisk(e)ypreferred.fromthe States also comes in a number of different guises. Bourbon will come from a mash that is at least 51 per cent corn and uses new charred oak barrels. It can be made anywhere within the United States, though Kentucky is its spiritual home, if you will forgive the pun. Corn whiskey uses 80 per cent corn; malt comes from a mash of at least 51 per cent malted barley; rye needs 51 per cent rye; rye malt whiskey requires 51 per cent of malted rye. The designation of “straight” can be added to these whiskies if they are aged for a minimum of two years. There are, inevitably, many more regulations demanding compliance.
The exception is Benjamin Prichard’s Tennessee Whiskey which does not require such filtration, as it was grandfathered in under the Act (no one said this would be simple). Under various international trade agreements, Tennessee whiskey is deemed to be bourbon – I’m sure your friendly bureaucrats could explain all this.
Tennessee whiskey – think Jack Daniel’s and George Dickel – must be filtered through sugar maple charcoal being ageing. This is known as the Lincoln County Process.
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to receive the coveted ‘Liquid Gold’ status from Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible, back in 2007. It is perhaps the best known, but there are numerous others. Sullivans Cove was founded in 1994, celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. Winning the ‘World’s Best Single Malt’ in 2014 brought it to the attention of the world’s whisky aficionados.
While all of this is especially thrilling for Sullivans Cove, it has helped the entire industry here. Interest has skyrocketed and producers feel confident to put in the time and effort (and money) to follow in these illustrious footsteps.
Tasmania has dominated quality Aussie whisky, especially Sullivans Cove (SC), with its amazing international success in various tastings, including the first Aussie whisky
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Look for various SC whiskies to celebrate all of these milestones, but be quick – they sell out faster than Springsteen tickets.
Last year, head distiller, Patrick Maguire, was inducted into the ‘Icons of Whisky Hall of Fame’, only the second Australian to be so honoured (the first was Bill Lark).
Australia has been steadily establishing a whisky industry which may be small, but is firmly aimed at the highest possible quality. These days, it is rare to find a country that does not have at least a couple of distilleries producing whisky. India, for example, is the world’s largest producer of whisky. Japan, where it was once considered little more than a curiosity, is now recognised as making some of the very best whiskies on the planet. Demand has seriously depleted stocks of aged material, which in turn has sent prices into the stratosphere. The Rugby World Cup this year and the Olympics in 2020 will surely put massive strain on whatever is left. Given all of the variations in production and location of these whiskies, it must come as no surprise that there are such variations in style and flavour. The days of your dad’s old whisky decanter sitting pride of place on the liquor cabinet is long gone. Today, there is a whisky for everyone. Johnnie Walker even has a Game of Thrones series of whiskies
Whisky fever has spread to the mainland.
‘Scotch’, obviously from Scotland, needs to be distilled at least twice, though can be many more times, and to have spent a minimum of three years in oak. Canadian whisky also has its own raft of regulations, not least that it must be produced in Canada. It has long been especially popular in the States, which is attributed to so much of it being illegally imported during Prohibition.
Renowned Gin producer, Archie Rose Distilling Co.,, is releasing two new whiskies (I have a theory that most gin producers really would prefer to make great rum or whisky but don’t have the patience, or possibly resources). The first is the limited-edition Chocolate Rye Malt Whisky that was released in June and sold out within two hours. The second their core range Rye Malt Whisky. The Chocolate
‘SCOTCH’, OBVIOUSLY FROM SCOTLAND, NEEDS TO BE DISTILLED AT LEAST TWICE, THOUGH CAN BE MANY MORE TIMES, AND TO HAVE SPENT A MINIMUM OF THREE YEARS IN OAK.
Winning ‘World’s Best Single Cask Single Malt’ in 2018 and 2019 is an achievement no other distillery on the planet has achieved.
exploredrinks.com production of whisky and connoisseurs will have their favourites. Perhaps the most divisive are the malts from Islay, with their amazing peaty, smoky notes. This is lovethem-or-hate-them stuff (I am definitely in the ‘love-them’ camp).
As mentioned, the whisky industry in Australia is small but very much aimed at high quality. Over the last three years, sales of Australian craft whisky have grown 3.5 times faster than single malts from Scotland, showing just how much interest there is here.
Another mainland producer making waves is Starward from Melbourne, founded in 2007, and considered the leader in Aussie craft whiskies, with a 46 per cent value share of the category. This share has doubled in the last three years. Their aim was to recreate the ‘four seasons in one day’, so often encountered in Melbourne (apparently, locals think this is cute; the rest of the world just finds it thoroughly annoying), while ensuring affordable products (which is much less annoying). They use their connections with the local wine industry to source local barrels. Their ‘Two-Fold’ is a double grain –malted barley and wheat – whisky aged in barrels previously used for local reds. At the risk of deeply offending half the nations on the planet, there can be no question that the spiritual home for whisky is Scotland. Its history, progress, innovation and methods have been thoroughly chronicled. While the mass-produced product remains important for many distilleries, the bottom line being crucial for any business, here too, the focus is on quality, or rather “premiumisation” as brand manager, Tanya Mah, for local importer, Proximo (responsible for the single malt, Bunnahabhain, as well as the Irish distillery, Bushmills), explains.
It was far from plain sailing after that, but the family prevailed and now makes some thrilling whiskies, with an amazing array of older bottlings often available. In more recent times, George S. Grant served as Chairman of Glenfarclas for a remarkable 52 years, succeeded by his son, John, in 2002.
In the 1890’s, they took a 50% interest in the Glenfarclas-Glenlivet distillery company, which produced fine Highland whisky. It later became J.& G. Grant.
Rye Malt uses roasted chocolate rye, also favoured by some brewers for dark beers.
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Part of the glory of the whiskies of Scotland are their stories, many of which date back into the mists of time, as thick as any mist which descended from Scottish Highlands.
“Premiumisation continues to be an overarching driver in the whisky category, driven by consumers who are seeking out emphasis on true authenticity from the brands they buy and consume. Consumers are more educated about the origins of the products they are drinking; they know about the raw ingredients and the production process and they want brands that have stayed true to their original roots and values… It’s no longer about the lowest price, but rather about quality and superior taste. People are willing to pay more for what they believe is value to them and as a result, craft and premium brands have benefitted.”
Take Glenfarclas. 1836 saw a licence issued for a distillery on the Recherlich Farm at Ballindalloch, for Robert Hay, the tenant farmer. After his passing, the Grant family, local cattle breeders, took over. The distillery cost £511.19sd, but whisky was not their focus at this time. For the next five years, John Smith, later to establish the Cragganmore distillery, ran things. The Grant family then had the misfortune to see a number of family members fall off the perch and it fell to two descendants, John and George (one can’t help but wonder if there was a Paul and a Ringo as well), to take over.
The Rye Malt has already picked up the gong for Best Australian Whisky at the IWSC Awards in London 2018. You can safely assume that this is only the beginning for Archie Rose whiskies.
But to think of all Scottish whisky producers as ancient, grizzled, kilt wearing, ginger-
The history of many distilleries sounds more like novels to rival the Poldarks.
Master distiller, Eddie Russell, who took over from his legendary father, Jimmy, is behind the ‘Master’s Keep’ bourbons. The ‘1894’, named for their oldest warehouse (and the place where Eddie decided that he really did want to join the family business), is the third in the series, following on from ‘Decades’ and the ’17-Year-Old’ before it. Limited to 10,000 bottles, it is only available
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has only been established in recent years. When highly respected distiller, Billy Walker, sold the BenRiach Distillery Company to Brown-Forman in 2015, it was time for a new challenge. Doors opened in 2017, at a distillery which was originally in operation from the 1960s. Boosted by a long relationship with Pernod Ricard, that allowed for the transfer of certain brands and trademarks and more importantly, extensive stocks of aged whiskey, enabling GlenAllachie to release some seriously older whiskies.
One category which has seen a transformation here is American whiskies.
Not that many years ago, any American whisky (usually just dubbed bourbon, in the same manner in which the world labelled any sparkling wine ‘champagne’ for so long) was considered little more than a means to ingest alcohol. Quality/flavour were immaterial (the rum category has experienced similar issues in the past). Now, we see some wonderful bourbons, rye and American whiskies.
It was Blanton’s – great bourbon, but I always think that the little horse on the stopper looks a bit like a kid’s toy from a cereal packet – who started the single cask craze back in the 1980s. since then, we have seen unimaginable things, such as the Pappy phenomenon where bottles of Pappy van Winkle bourbon now go for Midas-like sums with demand so out of control that some stores run lotteries for the bottle or two they are allocated. These days, you are as likely to find quality bourbon on lists in top restaurants and on bottleshop shelves as you are quality Scotch. This trend has not escaped the big boys.
Wild Turkey, normally seen as a popular but mass-produced bourbon, has established a program of aged and very special releases. Australia is Wild Turkey’s biggest export market.
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bearded Highlanders who have making the stuff for generations is not accurate, of course. New producers continue to spring GlenAllachieup.
BUNNAHABHAIN STI U IREADAIR ISLAY SINGLE MALT
112 exploredrinks.com in Australia (not that long ago, the mere thought of a top Bourbon producer releasing a special, limited edition bourbon in Australia only, would have been ‘box of frogs in party hats’ stuff). Bourbon devotees have changed enormously in recent years and these are the spirits that many seek – to collect and drink. The bourbon crowd is now a much younger (dare we say, cooler, group) and an emphasis on cocktails has also allowed the spirit to find new fans, who then gravitate to the good stuff. ‘1894’ saw Russell travel to Jerez in Spain to source old oloroso barrels for further ageing, after 12 to 15 years in new charred American oak. Fourth in the Master’s Keep series is Revival. Again, with this and ‘1894’, the drive to ‘premiumisation’ is more than apparent. We see this with the Buffalo Trace (BT) Antique Collection whiskies. BT is one of America’s most famous distilleries, their story starting in 1771, when Daniel Boone rode through the town, as they say, ‘on the buffalo trace’, more than twenty years before Kentucky even became a State (‘buffalo trace’ is the name given to a crossing made annually by the herds of buffalo, across the Kentucky River). This distillery makes many of the most famous names in American whisky – Eagle Rare, Pappy van Winkle, Blanton’s and Buffalo Trace itself. The annual collection is in huge demand, even with prices around the grand per bottle. This year, they included the Eagle Rare 17-Year-Old (Australia’s allocation a mere fifteen bottles), George T Stagg, Sazerac 18-Year-Old (an allocation of 45 bottles), Thomas Handy Rye and the wonderful W. L. Weller. Of course, not all bourbon/whisky makers are slow-talking, coon-skin cap wearing, buffalo-slaughtering southerners (not sure any are). The emergence of Michter’s puts paid to any such suggestion. Its genesis goes back to 1753, and a distillery known as Shenk’s in Pennsylvania. Doors closed thanks to Prohibition, but later reopened, to a succession of owners, then closed again, till Joseph Magliocco, a New York businessman educated at both Yale and Harvard, decided to get into the spirits industry. He revived the operation, with his own unique spin. They aim to make small batch or single barrel products. ‘Small Batch’ has no legal specifications in the States, hence a product can be “stretched” to umpteen thousand cases and still claim to be ‘small batch’. Michter’s have restricted themselves to a maximum of twenty barrels for any of their Small Batch releases. Sadly, space prevented any examination of the fascinating emergence of whisky in Japan and the wonderful things they are doing, but as supply is massively overwhelmed by the demand for their best, perhaps it would just be a tease. Whisky, wherever it is from, is enjoying a golden era.
STARWARD TWO-FOLD DOUBLE GRAIN
They came up with the name when someone dropped the Scrabble box. Although from Islay, not overly peaty. Would be ideal for anyone who like their smoke/peat in moderation. Orange rinds and cinnamon. Some fire on a mid-length finish.
Finally, a collection of brief tasting notes.
Nuts, oak and touches of mustard seeds here. Some honey and nougat, especially in the finish. Decent length. A solid performer.
THE BOURBON CROWD IS NOW A MUCH YOUNGER (DARE WE SAY, COOLER, GROUP) AND AN EMPHASIS ON COCKTAILS HAS ALSO ALLOWED THE SPIRIT TO FIND NEW FANS, WHO THEN GRAVITATE TO THE GOOD STUFF.
This was like sticking one’s nose into a cloud of spice, honey and smoke. Very complex with a supple palate. Great length. A class act.
SULLIVANS COVE DOUBLE CASK TASMANIAN SINGLE MALT
An aroma not unlike the wooden furniture in a sunlit room at your great aunt’s house – comfortable and comforting. Slight oatmeal note. Flick of honey. A finely crafted whisky, which is very well balanced.
CHICHIBU ‘ICHIRO’S MALT’ WINE WOOD RESERVE
GLENFARCLAS 40-YEAR-OLD HIGHLAND MALT Incredibly complex. Balanced and intense. Caramel, honey, nuts, spices, glacéd fruit. Power and finesse. A privilege to drink BUSHMILLS 10-YEAR-OLD SINGLE MALT Florals, spices, citrus and cinnamon. A fresh, gentle and more elegant style than many. Lovely baked biscuit notes emerged. Spirity finish.
CHICHIBU ‘ICHIRO’S MALT’ MWR Stands for Mizunara Wood Reserve. Offers freshly baked bread notes and a whiff of coconut, with spices. A touch more elegant than some. A fabulous experience for whisky lovers. Even though we did not look into the Japanese industry, worth mentioning these, even though they are extremely limited and very rare.
MICHTER’S STRAIGHT RYE US-1
GLENFARCLAS 21-YEAR-OLD HIGHLAND MALT More depth and complexity. Nuts and oak, finely balanced, this is a class whisky.
GLENALLACHIE 12-YEAR-OLD SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT
GLENFARCLAS 15-YEAR-OLD HIGHLAND MALT In truth, Glenfarclas have an amazing array of aged whiskies and I could have added many more. This is a snapshot across the range. Walnuts, florals, a hint of toffee and oranges. Supple and fresh.
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MICHTER’S SMALL BATCH US-1 BOURBON
Lovely caramel notes with hazelnut and honeycomb. Florals and a hint of vanillin oak. Reasonable length, good complexity.
A blended malt with red fruit notes, toffee, nuts, honey, cinnamon, that touch of coconut and a hint of nougat. Bright, fresh and yet with complexity, there is excellent length here, decent power and balance.
A single barrel release, offering cinnamon, teak, orange rind, nectarines, spices and a little caramel. Supple texture, mid-length and again good complexity.
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Aged over 12 years, complex with great length. Dark oranges and an Armagnac-like note. Hints of chocolate, almonds and old teak. WILD TURKEY MASTER’S KEEP ‘1894’ Bread and butter pudding notes. White chocolate. Honey, toffee, nectarines and a fine slippery texture. Some pepper on the finish. WILD TURKEY MASTER’S KEEP ‘REVIVAL’ Take me now. The bees’ knees, the ants’ pants, the be-all-and-end-all. Cracking bourbon. Seriously complex. Perfectly balanced. Notes of stonefruit, honey and nougat. An orange and chocolate finish. Amazingly long. Wow! As soon as I have finished these notes, the rest of the bottle and I are finding a couch, a great cigar and a good book.
Lovely burnished orange. Honey, garden spices, cinnamon and florals. Good complexity and finishes with that appealing honey.
Glacéd orange, milk chocolate, honeycomb and nuts. A lovely complex spirit with some fire on the finish.
A terrific bourbon, great value. Around 8 to 10 years of age, there are nutty, vanillin and caramel notes, lovely supple texture and a little fire on the finish. A delicious and impressive bourbon, with good length.
‘W. L. WELLER’ KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON
BUFFALO TRACE KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON
10-YEAR-OLD KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON
‘THOMAS HANDY SAZERAC STRAIGHT RYE’ Bottled directly from the barrel. Aged for over six years, at cask strength of 64.4%.
MICHTER’S SINGLE BARREL
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EAGLE RARE ‘17-YEAR-OLD’ KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON
‘GEORGE T STAGG’ KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON 64.6% with 15 years under its belt. Hazelnuts, old teak, vanilla, florals, petals, honeycomb, toffee. A barrel selection from 240 barrels. Great length.
‘SAZERAC 18-YEAR-OLD’ STRAIGHT RYE Dry herbs, iodine, oystershell notes, but not the length on the palate of the very best of these.
Very special. Florals, cinnamon, spices, tobacco leaf, orange rind notes. Underlying power, but an elegant spirit to the fore. A hint of smoke. Wonderfully complex and simply delicious.
SO WHY THE DISCREPANCY?
A must visit when in Lynchburg Tennessee. Learn all about the original square bottle, the first master distiller (Nathan ‘Nearest’ Green), Jack’s mystery birthday, the legend behind the Old No 7 and other members of the family including Gentleman Jack, Single Barrel and Jack Rye. To tour the distillery, book online: www.jackdaniels.com/en-au/visit-distillery
“Here’s to Mr Jack, more than 165 years old and still out in the bars every night.”
In the world of whisky, or whiskey, Jack Daniel’s is as unique (and significant) as they come. You could technically call it bourbon, but the producers prefer to call it a sour mash Tennessee whiskey. It is produced in Lynchburg, Tennessee which, by a weird quirk of fate, falls within the County of Moore. A dry County. So the world’s most popular whiskey just so happens not to be available to purchase in its own hometown – with the exception of a range of commemorative products, which the distillery’s White Rabbit Bottle Shop puts on rotation for visitors.
Well, the 1850 date on the statue and gravestone were the work of Jack’s nephew, Lem Motlow, who laboured side by side with his uncle and eventually inherited his Distillery. Lem probably got his information from his Uncle Jack. Now Jack, because he ran away from home at an early age and both his parents had passed away by the time he was around 14 years old, might not have known the actual year of his birth. Or, because he was a lifelong bachelor and ladies man who entertained a number of female acquaintances, he might have shaved a couple of years off his age. Whether he was uncertain of the actual year or it was just a matter of pride, Jack died before revealing the truth about this mystery. Today, it’s only one of the many unknowns that surround Mr Jack and his Distillery.
HISTORY
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Every year in September, folks in Lynchburg and elsewhere around the world gather to celebrate the birthday of Mr Jasper Newton Daniel. We think Mr Jack would be proud that people still pause to raise his name and his whiskey in his honour. We think he might be equally amused that they do this not knowing the exact day in September he was born or, for that matter, what year. If you go to Lynchburg, you’ll find the date 1850 inscribed on his statue and gravestone and referred to on the tour as the “official” date of Jack’s birth. And that it is the “official” date. We know for a fact, it’s not the “actual” date. By 1850, we’re pretty sure Jack’s mother was dead, which would make his birth in that year somewhat problematic. It’s more likely, based on census data, that Jack was actually born two years earlier in 1848.
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JACK DANIEL’S
Just one of the ways Munroe innovates is through the yeast, “the particular-kind of ale PORTLAND Portland is a city in transition. It rains plenty, there are strip clubs everywhere, and the brewers rule the roost. However, the past three years alone have seen the number of hotel rooms jump by 40%, a mirror of change sweeping the Pacific North West city, the rival of its noisy neighbour, Seattle. This is a region long focused on quality food and beverage...and music. There’s a pioneering spirit that encourages these explorers to break the rules; to seek out new and exciting ways to create, grow, brew, ferment and distil. The food and drink scene in Portland is buzzing, beer and wines have flourished here for decadesnow they are joined by craft distilling and the quality is exceptional.
DRINKING
Miles Munroe, Lead Distiller at Westward describes American Single Malt as: “A hybrid of styles, in a way, that it covers a lot of people’s tastes. Our whiskey is made as a scotch, and aged as a bourbon”. “We have always been an innovative distillery,” continued Munroe, “we approach whiskey with the idea that there are still new ways to innovate. There are still ways to take this old-established spirit in a new “Anydirection.”good single malt is a beer first, essentially,” explains Munroe, “so for me that meant I became a brewer first, studying fermentation, studying the aspects of brewing and studying fermentation. I essentially make as close to a craft beer before turning it into a whiskey.”
Portland sits amidst an explorer and adventurer’s dream environment. If you love the outdoors (minus white sandy beaches), then this is the place for you. The city itself is on the Willamette River, just below the Hudson. Imposing mountain peaks scatter the horizon, the most notable being Mount Hood at 3450 metres (over 11,000ft) and capped with snow year-round. Mount St Helens* can be seen on a clear day, a volcanic reminder that this area is in the “Ring of Fire” and the reason locals frequently remark “the big one is bound to happen one day soon”. Encircling the towering peaks are vast forested areas and a literal sense of clean, well-oxygenated air. You feel you can breathe more easily here. Portland attracts a diverse population, many of whom have been drawn by a creative and freewilled buzz. They haven’t chosen Portland just for the outdoors, and certainly not for the weather, rather some of the country’s more-free spirited and liberal views. This is the “wild-west” and the place to be when pushing boundaries and exploring new ways to work, live and play. The same can be applied to the beverage producers here; not bound by centuries-old rules; this is the perfect place to create and develop their style, and along the way, produce another American classic.
MILES MUNROE, LEAD DISTILLER AT WESTWARD, DESCRIBES AMERICAN SINGLE MALT AS: “A HYBRID OF STYLES, IN A WAY, THAT IT COVERS A LOT OF PEOPLE’S TASTES. OUR WHISKEY IS MADE AS A SCOTCH, AND AGED AS A BOURBON”.
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In the beverage world, Oregon fame is not new, world-class craft beers have been brewed here for decades and the Willamette Valley (one hour south of Portland) produces Pinot Noir to rival Burgundy. Dig a little deeper, and you’ll find a vibrant scene of artists painting a broader canvas not restricted by old-world winemaking laws or resting on the laurels of dripping IPA gold medals in shows across the world. Distilling is laying claim to this pioneering spirit – time to meet American Single Malt Whiskey and Portland’s leading light, Westward Whiskey. Westward Whiskey, which is owned by House Spirits, has become the largest independent distiller of American Single Malt, a style which has developed a strong following locally and recently released here in Australia with Barranows Emporium. The rules, currently unofficially regulated, are that it is made from 100% malted barley, produced at a single distillery, matured in oak barrels and bottled to 40% ABV.
“WE HAVE ALWAYS BEEN AN INNOVATIVE DISTILLERY,” CONTINUED MUNROE, “AND WE WANTED TO APPROACH WHISKEY WITH THE IDEA THAT THERE ARE STILL NEW WAYS TO INNOVATE. WE DIDN’T WANT TO MAKE SOMETHING THAT WAS TOO SIMILAR… TOO CLOSE TO THE WHISKEYS ALREADY IN THE MARKET. THERE ARE STILL WAYS TO TAKE THIS OLD-ESTABLISHED SPIRIT IN A NEW DIRECTION.”
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Westward American Single Malt Whiskey RRP: $129.99
The liquid has grabbed the attention of the judges, earning global recognition with gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, a 93-point/Excellent rating at the Ultimate Spirits Challenge and a 94-point rating from Wine HouseEnthusiast.Spirits owner, Christian Krogstad, along with Munroe has chosen Australia and local distributor Barranows as its first launch market outside of the States because in Munroe’s words; “there’s an excellent single malt culture and a great appreciation for whisk(e)y in general here in BarranowsAustralia”.
exploredrinks.com 117 yeast we use has robust fruits, honey and floral characteristics that comes forward during fermentation, explains Munroe. Munroe was recently inspired to incorporate stout beer into a cask finish, which he felt would pair well with Westward’s signature characteristics, resulting in a four-year aged Westward resting for eight months in an Imperial Stout barrel that, having sold out rather quickly, will re-launch in 2020 here in MunroeAustralia.felt that collaborating with other Portland distillers was an essential part of Westward’s growth story, with the company helping to forge a strong business support network there, along similar lines to the collegiate approach found in Tasmania’s whisky industry, led by pioneers such as Bill and Lyn Lark of Lark Distillery. “Westward has been around since 2004, so we started a collective with other distillers as they popped up around us,” Munroe says. “It has officially become a group, and we still meet once a month, and we continue to add new members”. “In the States, this is unique to Portland, this culture of support that we give each other. There’s strength in numbers, and together we can do things such as share knowledge and push for new Bylegislation.”workingtogether, Munroe says, Portland’s distillers have also managed to gain more visibility, by collaborating on events such as whiskey festivals. “It’s so fascinating to see what everyone here (Australia) is developing. The innovation aspect of new world distilling here in Australia matches perfectly with that Portland ethos.” Munroe, an ex-brewer himself, revels in the opportunity to push the boundaries and explore new ways to showcase the raw ingredients that the region has in abundance. He focuses on the fermentation process and is rightfully proud of the base spirit (white dog) that is produced at Westward. He encapsulates plenty that is rebellious, and adventurous, about the liquid he creates, age statements, for example, have no place here. “We believe in maturity over age, the whiskey is ready when it’s ready”, explains Munroe.
Emporium, an independent, premium spirits distributor in Australia, has added Westward to its portfolio after receiving “stellar feedback” during its initial trade previews at the Drinks Industry Show in June last year. Westward Whiskey is now being served in cocktail and whiskey bars in Sydney, Melbourne, Tasmania and Perth, and is available at fine liquor stores and wholesalers nationally.
TASTING NOTE: Spiced vanilla, dark chocolate, tobacco and stone fruit; a nod to the hoppy nature of a typical Oregon ale.
The cut of the heads and tails, which seeks to keep only the purest “heart” of the distilled liquid, becomes broader as Munroe encourages the flavours he brings forward in the initial fermentation. Rather than distilling the characters out, Munroe uses them to integrate with the unique cask finishes with the help of some brewing mates and creates his defined style. This approach results in a well-integrated, balanced, flavoursome and above all – a unique quality whiskey.
Miles Munroe, Lead Distiller at Westward
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The Westland Distillery was founded in Seattle, Washington in 2010 and is leading the charge for American Single Malt whiskey. These whiskies speak of a special provenance unique to this part of the world. Westland brings a distinctly American voice to the production of single malts.
This part of America was calling out for a single malt whisky made with barley. It was clear from the start this region was meant to produce single malt
Westland’swhisky.
In America, there could not be a more ideal place suited to the production of quality single malt whisky. Everything about the Pacific Northwest is perfect whisky country. It has clean fresh water in abundance, plentiful and cascading from the surrounding mountains. The earth is black and fertile and ideal for growing barley. It is coastal, so the sea air marries well for maturation in American oak casks. There are local peatlands, so even the peat is part of the provenance of the whisky produced here. This is where Westland Whisky is distilled, matured and bottled, the essence of the Pacific Northwest.
“Here in America, we’re gifted the freedom to consider things differently. We’re predisposed and compelled to imagine new approaches. Frankly, we can’t help ourselves, it’s in our DNA.”
WESTLAND AN AMERICAN SINGLE MALT WHISKEY
The ethos of Westland is inspired by the wild western frontier where ancestors were restless, fierce and courageous explorers, settling only when they had ventured further than their spirits would dare take them; only when they were satisfied, they had exhausted all new territories.
core range of American Single Malt whiskey includes American Oak, Sherry Wood and Peated. Each expression defines the house style
In this region of the Pacific Northwest it is suited to making barley, not corn or rye as is used to make American-style Tennessee whiskey or bourbon.
At Westland it is this philosophy applied to the creation of its single malt American whiskies. It is about taking the path that has not been trodden and experimenting with the new. The new western frontier is whiskey and Westland stands at the forefront of the new and emerging category of American Single Malt Whiskey.
“THE ETHOS OF WESTLAND IS INSPIRED BY THE WILD WESTERN FRONTIER WHERE ANCESTORS WERE RESTLESS, FIERCE AND COURAGEOUS EXPLORERS, SETTLING ONLY WHEN THEY HAD VENTURED FURTHER THAN THEIR SPIRITS WOULD DARE TAKE THEM; ONLY WHEN THEY WERE SATISFIED THEY HAD EXHAUSTED ALL NEW TERRITORIES.”
The barley is 100 per cent Pacific Northwest grown and it is Westland’s belief that barley contributes significantly to a whiskey’s flavour. With this in mind, Westland embraces specialty malts and invests in new and unique barleys bred specifically for flavour. Barley is one of only four ingredients in a single malt whiskey, and Westland challenges the status quo by viewing barley as a key ingredient that has a huge influence on the palate. The team at Westland is manifesting its vision by investing in partnerships and resources who are assisting in the development of different and unique barleys.
All three of Westland’s expressions are made from 100% malted barley, fermented with a unique Belgian Saison brewer’s yeast and matured in a variety of cask types—leading to new and distinctly American flavour profiles –Westland American Single Malt Peated, Westland American Oak Single Malt and Westland Sherry Wood Single Malt Whisky. To receive updates on Westland’s latest releases and distillery news, join us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram.
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VISIT - DISTILLERY FOCUS
Peat is also honoured in Westland’s whiskies and uses local peat harvested from Washington State peatlands thus exploring regionality. The flavour imparted by peat represents something significant historically, reaching back to the first whiskies ever made but the new world peat offers unique flavour profiles to an ongoing timeless record of peated single malts from the old world. Another exciting element explored by Westland’s team. When it comes to vatting or blending of the single malts together from the different casks, Westland also looks at this necessary and important component in the art of whiskey-making and approach it differently. Rather than being standardized and formulaic as many distilleries are, this process as another opportunity for Westland to do things differently for a unique result.
The provenance of Westland whiskey is key to its distinctive qualities. Single Malt whiskey by its very nature and existence is innovative. It explores exciting new territories of taste and has created a new whisky category. There are four key areas of Westland whiskey’s creation that make it uniquethe barley, oak, peat and vatting.
of a balanced, grain-focused whiskey that pays homage to traditional single malt whiskies but also creates something different. Westland produces single malt using traditional methods of production applied for generations in the old world but highlights the essence of place and provenance of the Pacific Northwest – the new world. It reflects the unique qualities of region, of place, while also imparting the characters of those who make it.
The same importance is placed on oak, another key ingredient in the single malt production process. Westland insists on the quality of the oak and uses only air-dried staves in its casks, but more importantly, it explores new species of oak not yet used in the art of whiskey making to create character. Through bold experimentation with one of whiskey’s crucial elements flavour creation reaches new heights.
120 exploredrinks.com HOT TODDY INGREDIENTS: 60ml Wild Turkey American Honey 100ml Hot water 1 x Heaped teaspoon of honey METHOD: Add ingredients to a mixing glass. Once combined pour into your preferred glassware GARNISH: Lemon and cinnamon quill GLASSWARE: Rocks (SPIEGELAU Perfect Serve) Still a little sceptical about whisky? Whisky cocktails are a great way to be introduced to the liquid. A well-created cocktail will release the aromas and flavours on the palate without being overwhelmed by all the whisky characters if were try it straight. These simple cocktail recipes could convert you from a whisky sceptic to a whisky drinker. And be patient with whisky. With so many options available, it can be trial and error before you find your dram of choice. Whisky Cocktails
RUSSELL’S BOULEVARDIERRESERVE INGREDIENTS: 30ml Russell’s Reserve Bourbon 30ml Sweet vermouth 30ml Campari METHOD: Build, stir and strain GARNISH: Orange twist GLASSWARE: Coupe (SPIEGELAU Perfect Serve) DRINKS exploredrinks.com 121
122 exploredrinks.com PENICILLIN INGREDIENTS: 50ml Blended Scotch 5ml Islay Single Malt 20ml Fresh lemon juice 15ml MONIN Ginger Syrup 10ml Honey water METHOD: Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker except your single malt whisky. Shake with ice. Strain over fresh ice and float single malt on top GARNISH: Candied ginger GLASSWARE: Rocks (SPIEGELAU Perfect Serve) SCOFFLAW INGREDIENTS: 30ml Michter’s Bourbon 30ml Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth 15ml MONIN Grenadine Syrup 15ml Fresh lemon juice METHOD: Shake all with ice and fine strain into chilled cocktail glass GLASSWARE: Martini
DRINKS exploredrinks.com 123 A YUZU HIGHBALL INGREDIENTS: 50ml Whisky 20ml MONIN Yuzu Purée 10ml MONIN Lemon Rantcho Lots of ice Top with soda METHOD: Build in glass GLASSWARE: Collins (SPIEGELAU Perfect Serve)
KENTUCKY MUFFIN INGREDIENTS: 60ml Buffalo Trace Bourbon 15ml Blueberry Reàl Puree 15ml Fresh lime juice 30ml Pressed apple juice METHOD: Shake all ingredients with ice and strain over fresh ice GARNISH: Three Blueberries on a stick GLASSWARE: Double Rocks (SPIEGELAU Perfect Serve) THE MARRIAGE INGREDIENTS: 60ml Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight 2BourbonxDash orange bitters METHOD: Pour whiskey into rocks glass, add orange bitters and garnish with an orange twist. Serve neat at room temperature GARNISH: Orange twist GLASSWARE: Rocks
exploredrinks.comDRINKS125SMOKED COBBLER INGREDIENTS: 40ml Paul John Bold 10ml Oloroso 20ml Blackberry Reàl Puree 20ml Fresh lemon juice Optional bitters METHOD: Shake, strain over ice GARNISH: Dehydrated orange and thyme GLASSWARE: Rocks (SPIEGELAU Perfect Serve)
126 exploredrinks.com ATLANTIC INGREDIENTS: 50ml Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve 15ml Verjuice 5ml Suze 1 x Dash Spiced Cocoa Bitters METHOD: Stir and strain into a cocktail glass GARNISH: Kombu strip GLASSWARE: Cocktail Approx. 2.2 Standard Drinks
exploredrinks.comDRINKS127127THE 19TH HOLE INGREDIENTS: 45ml Monkey Shoulder Blended Scotch Whisky 15ml Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao 15ml Falernum 15ml Fresh lime luice 5ml Ginger juice 2 x Dash Angostura Aromatic Bitters METHOD: Shake and double strain into a coupette GARNISH: Skewered Lime Twist GLASSWARE: Coupette
128 exploredrinks.com Are you looking for the perfect gift for your fellow whisky lover? We’ve pulled together a few ideas for every taste and budget. *Prices may vary between retailer HILDA ARMCHAIRLEATHER RRP $1299.00 www.schots.com.au BALVENIE DOUBLE WOOD 12 YEAR OLD RRP $105.00 Available from major national retailers and independents GIFTS NACHTMANN ASPEN WHISKEY SET Includes a decanter and two glasses RRP $239.95 www.riedel.com NACHTMANN PUNK WHISKY SET Includes a decanter and two glasses RRP $249.95 www.riedel.com VIONNET DECO BAR CART RRP $1145.00 www.globewest.com.auGlobeWest
exploredrinks.com 129 WHISKY LOVER’S JIGSAW PUZZLE RRP $36.00 www.annabeljames.co.uk FIRE & CANE RRP $85.00 Available from major national retailers and independents AILSA BAY RRP $98.00 Available from major national retailers and independents “Ailsa Bay Single Malt may be the most delicious peated whisky you can buy” – Executive Style, Februrary 2019 CORKCICLE WHISKY WEDGE GLASS + ICE MOULD RRP $34.95 www.gyrofish.com.au PERSONALISATION Personalisation is accessible at www.gflables.com.au. It is free with any purchase of the (participating) Glenfiddich range from any liquor retailer across Australia TRENDS
The possibilities are endless when matching a good whisk(e)y with jerky as there are so many flavour combinations. “Our classic jerky has more subtle flavours and finished with cracked pepper and coriander seeds.
If you’re thinking of making jerky at home, Brent explains, “It’s quite simple. Get a nice lean cut of beef, slice it, marinate it and air dry it at low heat. That’s basically it”.
JERKY & WHISKY, IT JUST WORKS
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Alternatively, buy Griffin Jerky as from the results Brent knows precisely what he’s doing and does all the leg work for you. Keep an eye out for Griffin Jerky’s next limitedrelease Massaman. It’s a recipe Brent has been working on for a while, so no doubt it will be a cracker
MEET
Like any good recipe, it’s “important to not skimp on ingredients, that’s the most important tip as its just dried meat. The better the meat, fresher the marinade and quality of ingredients, the better the product. Grind and toast your spices fresh, and you’ll reap the rewards”, explains Brent.
When two things go together, such as wine and cheese, tequila and lime, gin and tonic – then the marriage is worth celebrating. Such is the way with whisky and jerky. This dynamic duo has, in recent years, lost the stigma of being an over-processed snack. In fact, jerky popularity is soaring – now a go-to snack, in its own right. High in protein, low in carbs and higher quality produce. We checked out Griffin Jerky in our quest to find the good stuff.
“When I started, there was no one really doing it from my approach of quality first and being open about the process. We’ve done a lot of work in educating people about the quality of good jerky. Grass-fed beef, no preservatives, and exciting flavours make for a much different experience than sugar-loaded, preservative-filled mystery jerky,” says Brent. Griffin Jerky has been in operation since 2013, and (fortunately) Brent not only enjoys making his quality jerky, but he’s partial to enjoying it with a wee-dram. “Jerky is just a great companion to any drink, but there’s a certain intensity that good jerky has that can be similar to whisky. It can take a while to reveal itself and will taste completely different by the end as it did from the start. It can be tricky to match, as you don’t want to stomp on a great whiskies toes, so you’ve got to choose carefully”, says Brent.
“The base-level quality has definitely risen, and people have a better idea of what it actually is,” says Brent Griffin of Griffin Jerky.
To pair with this, I’d go for a more delicate Japanese whisky because the classic jerky is sugar-free. It also works really well with a good Bourbon. If you prefer a peated whisky, such as Laphroaig or a Lagavulin, a flavoured jerky will work well”. Brent suggests his Chipotle Adobo as the slightly sweet and smokey flavour with a touch of heat, works well with peated whiskies.
Quality Puree’s Crafted with a Movement in Mind
I dig the rich, intense fruit flavours with a balanced sweetness. SIMON “THE HOFF” HOUGH WA MANAGER OF STRIKE & HOLEY MOLEY (FUNLAB) Why I love Reàl, I find the products incredibly versatile and easy to use. It’s consistent in its quality and in the squeezy tubes my guests love it! We use it to bring colour and flavour to our tiki cocktails and the coco reàl on fresh lime with tequila is epic! BJORN KARASON MANAGER OF TIKI AS FK, PERTH Starward Colada Glass: Tall 45ml Starward Two-Fold 30ml Reàl Coconut 15ml Lemon Juice 60ml Pineapple Juice Method: Blend with scoop of ice. Garnish: Rosemary sprig, dehydrated pineapple Infused Syrup 15ml Finest Call Single Pressed Lime juice Method: Shake all ingredients with ice and double strain into a chilled glass Garnish: Lime Twist Kentucky Muffin Glass: Double Rocks 60ml Buffalo Trace 15mlBourbonReàl Blueberry Syrup 30ml Pressed apple juice 15ml Lime Juice Method: Shake all ingredients with ice and strain over fresh ice Garnish: 3 Blueberries on a stick 30ml Lime Juice 15ml Reàl Blue Agave Nectar Method: Shake all ingredients with ice and double strain into an icefilled glass Garnish: Lime wedge
TIP #34 DON’T STARE INTO YOUR PHONE. STARE INTO YOUR OLDIT’SFASHIONED.WAYMOREMYSTERIOUS. We can all be a little classier. Dress better. Drink better. Raise the bar. So we asked the world’s leading barman to create the perfect cocktail glasses. Ladies and gentlemen, we present the Perfect Serve Collection. You’re welcome. spiegelau.com.au The Perfect Single Old Fashioned Glass
