Journeys Dec20/Jan21

Journeys YOUR RACT MEMBER MAGAZINE // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

This issue

THERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT STANLEY Nostalgic holiday hotspots Derby’s new wild spa The Volkswagen T-Roc

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JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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BC . 6734

RACT Insurance Pty Ltd, ABN 96 068 167 804, AFS License 229076, is the issuer. Please read the Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) to decide if it is right for you. Obtain a copy from your local branch, call 13 27 22 or visit ract.com.au.

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Photos Tourism Tasmania / Marnie Hawson; Adam Gibson; iStockphoto

Get your insurance from a local

contents.

DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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04

Welcome note

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Inbox

The latest from our Group CEO

Our members share what’s on their minds

lifestyle

Photos Tourism Tasmania / Marnie Hawson; Adam Gibson; iStockphoto

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It’s time to rediscover this former fishing village perched on the top of the island. on the cover

A sunrise over Stanley’s iconic The Nut, shot by Graham King

RACT branch network Mon – Fri from 8.45am – 5pm Our Travel branches, including Cruise Travel Centre at 110 Collins St Hobart, are open Mon to Fri 9am – 3pm.

Travel news

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A place in the sun

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The pit stop

High-profile locals on their holiday haunts

My top 5

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Mona’s Kirsha Kaechele shares her top spots

Wellness

community

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Recipe

The latest happenings on our island

We test out Derby’s wild new spa experience A summer-friendly feed by local chef David Ball

drive

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How to spend a perfect day in Launceston

Have you met Stanley?

A north-coast delight

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The latest

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Changing gears

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Puzzles

News from the RACT community The big issues affecting RACT and our members

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Auto news

24

Road test

62

Member rewards

28

0-100 review

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Rear view

The latest developments in the car world We show off the new Volkswagen T-Roc Our speedy review of the Audi Q3 40 TFSI

RACT Customer Service Call 13 27 22

Mon – Fri from 8am – 8pm, Sat 9am – 2pm

Try your hand at our crossword and quiz Member savings available right now See your snap of Tasmania here

RACT Roadside Assistance Call 13 11 11 anytime ract.com.au

We’d love to hear your feedback. Email us at journeys@ract.com.au or write to GPO Box 1292, Hobart, TAS, 7001. To comment on issues that matter to you, log on to the Member Hub, and keep up-to-date on our social media platforms. If you wish to unsubscribe from Journeys, call us on 13 27 22, email journeys@ract.com.au or go to ract.com.au/update

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Everything on our radar in the local travel scene

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Stanley

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What’s on

inside

travel

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welcome.

ABOUT YOUR RACT PRESIDENT Kathryn Westwood VICE PRESIDENTS Alison Flakemore, Jenny Richardson BOARD Josephine Archer, Peter Dixon, Ralph Doedens, Jude Franks, Phil Jones, Risden Knightley, Pieter Kolkert, Sue Smith RACT GROUP CEO Mark Mugnaioni JOURNEYS MANAGING EDITOR Zoe Cooney

A word from A word from our Group CEO our Group CEO

My first year in Tasmania My first year in Tasmania has been one I’ll has been one I’ll never forget.

Our island is like never forget. Our island is like no other, and I’mno other, and I’m so grateful my place familyhome. can call this place home. so grateful my family can call this

Journeys is published for The Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania

by Hardie Grant Media, Building 1, 658 Church Street, Richmond VIC 3121 hardiegrant.com Managing Director Nick Hardie-Grant Deputy Managing Director Clare Brundle Managing Editor Krysia Bonkowski Art Director Dallas Budde

AS WE SETTLED in to Tasmania, my

family and I very quickly found our favourites. Heading to Willie Smith’s Apple Shed in the Huon Valley for lunch has become a weekend staple.

So has taking to the streets of Hobart – discovering something new and funky around every corner. We couldn’t spend our first winter in Tassie without a trip to Mount Wellington. Seeing my Queensland-born kids play in the snow for the first time was incredibly special.

My 2021 Tassie wish list keeps getting longer. We’re big walkers in my family, so the Three Capes Track holds the top spot. I fell in love with the Tassie outdoors on the Overland Track many years ago and can’t wait to experience the beautiful, rugged Tasman Peninsula.

I’ve always had a soft spot for a good single malt (…that’s my Scottish heritage 04

talking). Tassie has some of the finest whiskies in the world, so a whisky tasting at Hellyers Road Distillery is definitely in order! The Agrarian Kitchen in the Derwent Valley has been on our list for some time – we’re excited to feast on more of Tassie’s amazing food and produce. We’d also love to take some time to relax in the Tamar Valley and explore more of our northern hub in Launceston.

From my family to yours we wish you a safe and happy new year. What’s on your Tassie wish list for 2021? We’d love to hear what you’ve got planned. Let us know in our Member Hub.

Mark Mugnaioni // RACT GROUP CEO hub.ract.com.au

Design Katrina Mastrofilippo Advertising Sales and Partnerships Director Lauren Casalini laurencasalini@hardiegrant.com Senior Account Manager Amanda Travers amandatravers@hardiegrant.com Printer Ovato Mailhouse D&D Mailing Services Distribution Australia Post Australia Post No. 100003899 Competition terms and conditions can be found at ract.com.au/competitions. No part of Journeys may be reproduced without permission. Copyright 2020 RACT. The opinions contained in this publication may not be shared by The Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania Limited or its related bodies corporate (together “RACT”) or any of its directors or employees. Advertisements in Journeys are the responsibility of the advertiser.

No person should act or rely upon such opinions or advice and RACT accepts no liability for them. Any rewards or rights provided to a member cannot be transferred, assigned, sold or redeemed for cash.

Inclusion of a product should not be construed as an endorsement by RACT.

JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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Find us on Facebook 12/11/20 3:43 pm

inbox.

LETTERS

Listen up learners

Holey highway

We also came across three motorists changing tyres and this was only on the above stretch.

We decided to count the potholes on our return the same day, starting at the Meander River bridge on the A1.

We came across 247 potholes!

On our return, we came across two more cars changing tyres.

None of the potholes were marked with white corners.

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Cause(way) for concern The Midway Point causeway is close to commencing along with years of misery for a large section of the local communities – Sorell and Midway Point. Sorell’s Mayor, Kerry Vincent, has indicated that the first part to be done is through Midway Point. I feel the best thing for Sorell and all traffic coming down the Arthur Highway is for the first stage to be from the Nugent Road and Arthur Highway junction, to the beginning of the causeway, including roundabouts as per plan, bypassing Sorell and avoiding gridlock in future.

Warwick Chapman // Dodges Ferry

PICTURED

Needless to say, many motorists had to do all kinds of erratic movements to avoid the potholes.

We’ve travelled this road for the past nine years and gradually noticed the deterioration.

No sight of roadworks could be found.

This morning on ABC Northern Tasmania there was a talk on the increasing deaths on Tasmanian roads and all I can say is this stretch will add to that statistic.

I am a South African migrant and what I have experienced is exactly the same road conditions as in Africa.

Cutting corners

Hennie Meyer // East Devonport

John Spence // Sandford

Cutting corners can put oncoming traffic in danger

I’m amazed how many drivers cut corners (often on blind corners) even whilst an oncoming vehicle is close to them. When I learned to drive in NSW the police would book anyone who crossed over an unbroken line, even if there was no oncoming traffic. So we learned to stay on the correct side of the road at all times. My assessment of this is that so many drivers are used to being lazy in the face of oncoming traffic and less likely to correct the situation should danger arise.

Photo: iStockphoto

We recently travelled the A1 highway between Devonport and Launceston and experienced rather poor road conditions from Latrobe to the Meander River bridge at Deloraine.

Many, many potholes.

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Listen up learners

There’s been some updates to the Graduated Licensing Scheme, with new rules for learner drivers…

L1 and L2 phases are gone, replaced with a

single learner phase.

L drivers must complete:

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CAR

MEDIC Q The check engine light on

my car keeps coming on, then going off again. Should I stop driving it?

Lucy Stevens // Burnie

A The ‘check engine’ light

coming on happens relatively often and there’s no need to panic.

In most cars, the light – shaped like an engine or a triangle with an exclamation mark – will turn yellow or red. Yellow is more common and alerts you that the vehicle’s computer has noticed an abnormal reading and logged this fault.

Stopping and restarting the vehicle sometimes makes the light disappear, but it’s likely the error has been logged and can be accessed by your mechanic.

With so many sensors on modern vehicles, it could be absolutely anything causing it – from electrical to ignition issues.

If your light’s yellow, scan the dashboard for other lights or odd gauge readings. If all’s normal and vehicle performance isn’t affected, still contact your repairer as soon as possible. We’ve seen people cover the light with tape rather than get it checked, (I’ve even heard of people removing the light, which sounds harder than repairing it!). My advice is to contact your workshop quickly.

More serious is the red check engine light, which indicates a major issue. Many modern vehicles will reduce power and switch to ‘limp mode’. In this scenario, pull over in a safe location, turn off the vehicle and call our roadside team.

Photo: iStockphoto

New maximum speed limits are:

90 100 for learners

for P1 drivers

P2 can drive at posted speed

There is a total ban on mobile phone use, including hands-free, for all learners and P1 drivers

RACT expert // Darren Moody P2s may only use hands-free (bluetooth etc.)

WRITE TO US We’re keen to hear your auto questions and thoughts on any motoring or travelrelated topics. Please keep them brief – we reserve the right to edit. journeys@ract.com.au

80 mandatory logbook hours, including 15 at night.

@ractofficial

P1 drivers under 25 can only carry one peer passenger aged between 16-21. There are exemptions.

There are new green P plates for P2 licence holders.

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brought to you by Destination Southern Tasmania

Your essential guide to a

TASSIE SUMMER DOWN SOUTH 1 / GO WINERY HOPPING Skip picking a designated driver and join a tour to visit some of the Coal River Valley’s 30 boutique vineyards, with a long lunch in Richmond village to top it off.

8 / SPEND A DAY ON THE WATER Hop in a kayak, set off in a seaplane or jump aboard a cruise out to the ocean – sitting right on the water, Hobart is made for cruisy summer days.

2 / ESCAPE TO THE TASMAN Enjoy the balmy weather with a night alfresco on the Tasman Peninsula and fall asleep to the sound of waves at coastal campgrounds like Fortescue Bay.

9 / THROW DOWN A PICNIC RUG Hidden in the Huon Valley is a hamper’s worth of gourmet goodies. Stock up at roadside stalls and local providores and find a scenic patch to lay your blanket.

3 / LACE UP THE HIKING BOOTS Plunge into Mount Field National Park or Southwest National Park and cool off deep in temperate rainforests and mountain valleys.

5 / SPOT A YOUNG DEVIL In summer, Tasmanian devil joeys venture out of mum’s pouch.

Greet the youngsters at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary (and sneak them a snack on a night tour).

6 / HOP ON YOUR BIKE Get your heart started at Glenorchy Mountain Bike Park or have a leisurely pedal past the Glenorchy Arts and Sculpture Park (GASP!) to Mona.

4 / ENJOY AN ISLAND HOLIDAY Chase the sun to Tassie’s own island off an island – Bruny Island – where you’ll find more than enough empty beaches and wild shores to go around.

10 / CAST A LINE Make the most of warmer mornings and long twilights by casting a line around Bothwell in the Central Highlands – Tasmania’s best hunting grounds for brown trout.

11 / FIND YOUR NEW TOP TIPPLE Does anything beat a G&T on a hot day? Find out for yourself at the Southern Midlands’ acclaimed distilleries, from the grand Shene Distillery to Old Kempton Distillery cellar door in a restored inn.

Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Samuel Shelley / Alastair Bett; Destination Southern Tasmania / Jess Bonde

As the temperatures climb and the days grow long, do summer right with our 11 seasonal must-dos in Southern Tasmania.

7/ HAVE A SEAFOOD FEAST The fish and chips alone make Dunalley worth a visit. Get your order to go wrapped in newspaper, or pair your seafood with local wine at Bangor Vineyard Shed.

For more travel inspiration, visit our blog on hobartandbeyond.com.au

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lifestyle Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Samuel Shelley / Alastair Bett; Destination Southern Tasmania / Jess Bonde

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Summer is on

WHAT’S ON MY TOP 5 WELLNESS RECIPE

After a year when events have been cancelled left, right and centre, leave it to Tasmania’s most audacious cultural juggernaut to boldly forge ahead. Mona’s summer festival Mona Foma is back in 2021 with a special statewide edition, happening over two consecutive weekends in Launceston (15-17 January) and Hobart (22-24 January). Expect to see Tasmanian creatives take centre stage in unexpected venues across both cities. As always, Mona Foma is sure to deliver a genre-bending explosion of art, music and all-round good times.

Things are going to get weird, and we can’t wait.

P For more, visit mofo.net.au

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what’s on.

YOUR SUMMER TO-DO LIST 25 JAN 2021

IT’S A GIN THING With 30-odd distilleries crafting 100-plus gins, the spirit is becoming as synonymous with Tassie as whisky. See what the fuss is about during Hobart’s annual Gin-uary, which gathers boutique distillers for one glorious gin-filled day.

HAPPENING NOW

STOP AND SMELL THE FLOWERS Every summer, lavender erupts in a sea of purple across Tasmania – a spectacle that delights bees and Instagrammers alike. Visit Bridestowe Lavender Estate (above), north of Launceston to wander 200km-worth of rows at the largest privately-owned lavender farm in the world or travel south to admire the scenic Port Arthur Lavender overlooking the steely waters of Long Bay.

FROM 27 DEC 2020

READY, SET, SAIL

UNTIL 14 FEB 2021

Don’t miss Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery’s tribute to David Keeling, one of Tasmania’s greatest painters. In the lead-up to his 70th birthday, David Keeling: Stranger at TMAG showcases 70 works by the Launceston-born artist.

9 – 16 JAN 2021

SPEND A DAY COURT SIDE Watch some of the world’s best tennis pros vie for the Angie Cunningham Trophy at the Hobart International. The women’s tournament brings Australian and international greats to the courts at Domain Tennis Centre, in the lead-up to the Aussie Grand Slam in Melbourne.

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Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Luke Tscharke / Alastair Bet; Adam Gibson; TMAG; iStockphoto; Getty Images. Artwork: David Keeling, To the island (1990)

The world arrives at Constitution Dock with the Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. As the finish line for this legendary competitive event, Hobart starts to see the elite yachts on the horizon in the days before New Year’s Eve. Cheer on the arrivals from Sullivans Cove or, better yet, get out on the Derwent River.

DON’T BE A STRANGER

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lifestyle

Make a note

That’s the spirit Tasmania’s reputation as a craft distilling powerhouse shows no sign of abating, with an array of new experiences emerging in recent months – plus many more on the cards.

In Hobart, Forty Spotted Gin has just thrown open the doors to their craft cocktail bar (below). By day, visitors can craft their very own bottle for keeps in the Gin-stitute under the guidance of the resident ‘Gin Professors’.

In Richmond, Tassie whisky royalty Kristy Booth-Lark (daughter of Bill Lark) has recently unveiled the new Killara Distillery – another feather in the cap for one of the few female owned-and-operated distilleries in the world.

Listen Tune into the year that was with Music Tasmania’s New Release Tassie Music 2020 playlist, musictasmania.org

See Explore the annual Sculpture Prize Exhibition at Woodbridge’s Art Farm Birchs Bay, until 17 Jan.

Read Tassie writer Robert Dessaix muses on growing old – gracefully or otherwise – in The Time of Our Lives.

Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Luke Tscharke / Alastair Bet; Adam Gibson; TMAG; iStockphoto; Getty Images. Artwork: David Keeling, To the island (1990)

Made in Tas Treat yourself with Milie Organics soaps, crafted with Tassie olive oil and lashings of local ingredients (we particularly love the invigorating spearmint). Add one of the nourishing face masks and you’ve got a pamper session.

WHAT’S BLOOMING?

with SADIE CHRESTMAN from Fat Pig Farm in the Huon Valley It’s officially summer.

In our frosty corner of southern Tasmania, this means the spring vegetables are finally ready! The fresh, earthy smell of pulling new carrots from the ground, snapping snow peas straight from the vine, and podding peas to serve piping hot with lots of butter. And potatoes – it’s time to delicately scrabble through the soil at the edge of the potato patch, outstretched fingers like little bandicoot noses feeling for the first pink eyes, nicolas and Dutch creams, their skin so soft you can rub it off with your thumb.

As soon as the water boils they’re ready to be quickly drained and topped with a knob of butter. And for dessert: every summer it seems like the ultimate in decadence, to pull raspberries from their canes by the fistful and eat them all, before leaving the garden.

Plant now Tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers Harvest now Zucchini, peas, potatoes ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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1 CATARACT GORGE / LAUNCESTON

My top 5 Adopted by Tasmania as the First Lady of Hobart’s Mona, Kirsha Kaechele is an American artist and curator renowned for seeing things differently – her infamous solution to feral animals is to eat the problem. Kirsha’s Tassie top five celebrates beauty in some unexpected places, as Dale Campisi reveals.

2 GAGEBROOK / HOBART “This largely forgotten place is stigmatised by its low socio-economic status, but it has a radical energy.

There is incredible social power and creative force in places like this. Check out our fortnightly events at our Bond Place community garden, where there’s food to share from our Munch Machine and workshops for young and old in ceramics, gardening and art.”

3 BIG HART / BURNIE “This multi-award-winning arts and social change organisation was established in Tassie’s north-west in the 1990s to find new ways of dealing with disadvantage. Motivated by the closure of Burnie’s paper mill, Big hART 12

works with community to create highquality art that sheds light on hardship and hidden injustice. Look out for its new music collaboration with Hobart minerals smelter Nyrstar at Mona Foma 2021.”

4 CRADLE MOUNTAIN / CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

“I love visiting Cradle Mountain in winter. It’s a dreamy, mossy wonderland with the sound of water rushing everywhere. There’s a great chef at Cradle Mountain Lodge, and a new visitor centre, too. Nearby the Lemonthyme Wilderness Retreat – with its Ponderosa pine log cabins – brings the Twin Peaks vibes.”

5 BLACK BOOK TASMANIA / HOBART “This bespoke tour company is my go-to for those extra special occasions, like when you want to visit the back side of Maria Island, eat fresh-caught abalone on the beach and wash it down with a bottle of Domaine A. They even do nightclub tours if you’re looking to hit the town!”

Photos: Jesse Hunniford; Heath Holden; Tourism Tasmania / Jason Charles Hill / Jarrad Seng

with KIRSHA KAECHELE

“Located just 15 minutes from Launceston’s CBD, Cataract Gorge is a stunningly special place – and a dramatic backdrop for large-scale art installations. I swim in the pool every time I visit Launceston. There’s also walking and hiking trails and scenic lookouts with spectacular views.”

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Photos: Jesse Hunniford; Heath Holden; Tourism Tasmania / Jason Charles Hill / Jarrad Seng

Idyllic accommodation located

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lifestyle

Take the

plunge

Photo: Anjie Blair

C

old rain is falling in north-east Tasmania, but inside the Floating Sauna Lake Derby the temperature remains a steady 90 degrees Celsius.

Through the sauna’s full-length windows, I stare across the water, watching trout and the rain disturb its surface as my body sweats out its own lake of sorts. Inside this box of tropics, I’m slowly building up courage, for shortly I will step out into the rain and dive into the lake.

Opened in July 2020, Australia's only wood-fired floating sauna is like a day-spa treatment transplanted into the wild. The sauna sits on a pontoon moored at the edge of a lake across the Ringarooma River from the town of Derby.

ARE YOU READY to brave Tasmania's new wild spa experience?

Story Andrew Bain

A mountain bike trail skims past its doors, and guests spend an hour in the high heat of the sauna but are encouraged to dive into the chilly lake every 10 to 15 minutes.

“You get an absolute natural high from the cold plunge, but the main benefit is a massive reset of your nervous system,” says owner Nigel Reeves.

“The shock of going from a hot environment into cold means your body responds by releasing a whole lot of endorphins and adrenaline into your system to fight the ‘tiger in the jungle’ that might have appeared. You sleep so well that evening because your body can only replace those hormones and chemicals while at rest.” ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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THREE MORE WILD SOAKS THE KEEP (left) Bathe in beauty in a 300kg outdoor granite bathtub atop the Blue Tier at this new luxury accommodation offering between St Helens and Derby.

THREE CAPES LODGE WALK Walking days end well in the Three Capes Lodge Walk’s relaxation pavilion, offering Li'Tya spa treatments.

PORKY BEACH RETREAT Switch between the cedar sauna in the dunes and the deck-top spa at this luxury King Island stay.

Photos: Anjie Blair; The Keep

The concept is familiar to Nordic countries, where floating saunas line the shores of Norway’s capital, Oslo.

Reeves, who has never been to Europe, first heard of these saunas during a keynote speech at a tourism conference in 2019. Even before the speech was over, he’d browsed Oslo’s saunas online and spoken to his wife, his architect and the Dorset Council about creating a floating sauna in Derby.

The sauna can only be reached by bike or on foot from Derby, and mobile phones don’t work in the heat of the sauna, so the experience is all about disconnecting from distraction and reconnecting with nature. Even the lake is a transition of sorts – once a tin mine, it filled with water during massive floods in 1929, like nature making good.

I’ve arrived feeling a little uncertain about the prospect of jumping into a 10-degree lake on a 12-degree day, but after about the third plunge I’m welcoming its frigid embrace. Mountain bikes roll past each time I resurface, but they now seem like something from another universe.

I dive into the deep lake five times across an hour, sending my body through an exhilarating series of temperature extremes. By the end of my session, the rain has stopped and the lake has stilled, as have my mind and soul.

JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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advertorial

BACK IN ACTION Over 80% of adults suffer back pain at some time in their life. It is the most frequent cause of inactivity amongst those under the age of 45.

When Maureen started at Personal Best, she had experienced back pain for 19 years.

She had lost significant body strength and confidence and would avoid going out after a day at work due to the fear of more pain.

“I would have bouts of pain that were sometimes so severe that driving the car was a challenge,” she says.

Even though her daughter had worked in the fitness industry for many years, Maureen was still reluctant to start an exercise rehabilitation program for fear of injury and not knowing what to do.

“Rest, physio and anti-inflammatories would always help, but if I was honest with myself it was only just a ‘band aid’ effect.

Some days after work I would have to sit with the wheat pack on my back before I could do anything.”

Maureen thought that the pain was what happens as you age. At times she had no feeling in her leg when walking and gardening was beyond her.

Maureen’s physio suggested that she start some personal training as a preventative measure, in order to improve her strength, posture and reduce the stiffness in her body.

“Like most people I was aware of the benefits of going to the gym. I knew that I needed to learn how to move correctly again in order to free my body up, regain the strength in my legs and back, improve my balance and do something for myself,” she says.

“My results were immediate, my personal trainer was very good at knowing what I needed and how my body would respond. He gave me a program to follow and now I have the confidence and enjoy

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Maureen is also a regular participant in Forever Active classes at Personal Best.

These are low-impact classes that are specifically designed for people of her age whose bodies don’t allow them to partake in mainstream exercise programs.

Maureen is now able to swim and walk pain free and has a new lease on life.

She no longer feels stiff and sore each morning.

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12/11/20 3:23 pm

A taste

of summer 18

JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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Photo: David Ball

This vibrant dish is ideal for alfresco feasting.

lifestyle

IN TASMANIA, each season delivers a swag of fresh ingredients to play with.

At The Glass House, on Hobart’s Brooke Street Pier, chef David Ball presents the seasons on a plate (check out @chefdavidball for a preview). As the mercury climbs, there’s one crop David is particularly glad to see.

“We are so fortunate in Tasmania to have wonderfully seasonal produce, and every year I look forward to tomato time. The warm, herbaceous scent of them ripening on the vine is a sign that Tassie summer has arrived,” he says.

For David, nothing beats tomatoes grown at home or on a local farm.

He is among the first to receive the summer crop from Tasmanian Natural Garlic & Tomatoes, where Annette and Nevil Reed cultivate 130 varieties.

In this recipe, David pairs the Reed’s produce with another Tassie specialty – fresh seafood. David suggests sourcing sashimi-grade tuna at your fishmonger or skinless steaks at a good supermarket; look for flesh that is “deep red, firm and moist”. Swordfish and ocean trout will also work well.

“This simple dish makes the perfect light supper – leaving you more time to enjoy the outdoors,” David says.

PERFECT PAIRING …

Photo: David Ball

with wine writer WINSOR DOBBIN

“A delicious summer dish cries out to be paired with a coolclimate Tasmanian rosé. The 2020 Devil’s Corner pinot noir rosé ($24) is a chirpy rosé that is floral on the nose, savoury and dry, finishing with refreshing fruit flavours and crisp acidity. Other Tasmanian options include the Boomer Creek 2019 rosé ($28), the 2020 rosé from Hughes & Hughes ($30) or the Maclean Bay 2019 rosé ($28).”

Serves 4

PEPPERBERRY SEARED ALBACORE TUNA with heirloom tomatoes, pickled coriander seeds, lovage oil and anchovy dressing

Lovage oil • 1 bunch lovage, leaves picked • 1 bunch parsley, leaves picked • ½ cup sunflower oil Pickled green coriander seeds • 30g green coriander seeds (coriander flowers left to go to seed) • 40ml Champagne vinegar • 1 tbsp caster sugar Anchovy dressing • 2 tins anchovies • 4 cloves garlic • 100ml red wine vinegar • 300ml light olive oil • 20ml water Seared tuna • 1kg sashimi-grade tuna • 2 egg whites • Zest of 2 lemons • 1 tsp dried pepperberries • 1 tsp Tasman sea salt • ½ tsp black pepper • 2 tbsp grapeseed oil • 6-8 medium heirloom tomatoes at room temperature (never fridge cold) Lovage oil Bring a pot of salted water to the boil. Prepare an ice bath. Once water is boiling, add herbs and cook for about 15 seconds until they turn bright green. Transfer herbs to ice bath and let sit for five minutes. Once cooled, place herbs on a clean, dry tea towel and pat dry – removing as much moisture as possible. Place in a blender, add sunflower oil and puree until smooth.

Line a sieve with a coffee filter and rest over a large bowl. Pour herb oil into filter and let sit for a few hours to drain, stirring occasionally. Transfer oil to a bottle. Leftovers will keep in the fridge for a week.

Pickled green coriander seeds Bring Champagne vinegar and sugar to the boil, remove from heat and add the green coriander seeds.

Allow to cool and place in fridge until needed.

Anchovy dressing With a hand-held blender, blitz your anchovies with their oil and garlic, slowly pouring in olive oil and red wine vinegar. The dressing will start to emulsify and resemble mayonnaise when it’s done. It is also a great fridge staple and a tasty addition to cold cuts and leftovers.

Tuna If you’re cutting tuna loins, slice your steaks thick – about 1.5cm – thicker steaks stay juicier during cooking.

In a medium bowl, whisk egg whites to stiff peaks. Use a pastry brush to paint a thin, even layer of egg whites over the steaks and sprinkle lemon zest on both sides.

Next, place pepperberries, salt and pepper into a spice grinder and blitz.

Turn out onto a plate and roll tuna in the spice mix, coating all sides evenly.

Heat grapeseed oil in a heavy, nonstick pan over medium heat for about three minutes (don’t let the oil get hot enough to smoke). Test by lightly dipping in tuna; if it starts to bubble you’re at the right temperature.

Low-fat tuna can become dry and crumbly when overcooked, so it’s best to use a skillet's high heat to grill or sear steaks. Cook one steak at a time, tilting the pan to create a reservoir of hot oil on one side, while keeping the tuna at the far edge, away from oil. Sear steak in this position over medium-high heat for 30 seconds to a minute on each side.

This will spread colour and flavour to the meat’s surface, while keeping the interior moist and delicious. Remove to a clean plate to let rest, then prepare tomatoes.

Chop your tomatoes roughly into a bowl, splash with olive oil and season with sea salt.

To assemble, divide your tomatoes onto serving plates. Cut tuna into half-inch slices with a sharp knife and place on top. Spoon a dollop of anchovy dressing onto each plate, splash liberally with lovage oil and scatter with coriander seeds to finish.

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12/11/20 3:24 pm

THE ONE STOP SHOP FOR RACT MEMBERS THIS HOLIDAY SEASON. Whether you’re planning a staycation or hitting the open roads this holiday season, Repco has got you covered.

With lower prices on over 20,000 products we stock including filters, brake pads, oil and car care, Repco has everything you need to get your vehicle holiday-ready. Or if you’re looking for the perfect gift, Repco has something for everyone on your list with our huge range of dash cams, tools, 4x4 accessories and heaps more.

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12/11/20 3:28 pm

drive Whoa there...

22 / AUTO NEWS 24 / ROAD TEST: VW T-ROC 28 / 0–100 REVIEW: AUDI Q3 40 TFSI

The Ford Mustang Mach 1 is charging Down Under for the first time with the first-ever factory-built right-hand drive model hitting our shores in 2021.

The Mustang has become Australia's best-selling sports car and this limitededition release of just 700 vehicles is sure to be snapped up faster than you can say “horsepower”. Inspired by the 1969 original – which famously set 295 speed and endurance records on Utah’s Bonneville Salt Flats in its debut year – the V8-powered 2021 Ford Mustang Mach 1 will start from $83,365 (plus on road costs) for the six-speed manual and 10-speed auto. Sprint, don’t walk.

P For more, visit ford.com.au

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13/11/20 1:35 pm

auto news..

The latest developments in the car world

M&M The new year delivers a gift for Beamer fans with the arrival of the all-new BMW M3 sedan and M4 coupé on Australian shores in early 2021. The racetrack-ready releases from the German maker’s high-performance division BMW M combine striking aesthetics (including a grille design that’s dividing fanatics) with serious grunt provided by a TwinPower Turbo inline six-cylinder engine. The M3 starts from $144,900 and the M4 from $149,900 (plus on-road costs). Time to get saving.

THREE OF A KIND

2020 utes

GWM UTE On sale in Australia: November 2020 Driveaway from: $33,990 Need to know: An all-new market entrant from the rebranded Great Wall Motors.

MAZDA BT-50 On sale in Australia: October 2020 Priced from: $44,090* Need to know: Achieved a perfect five-star ANCAP safety rating.

Plastic fantastic

In a small but significant step towards its goal of netzero emissions, iconic British manufacturer Jaguar Land Rover has announced that it will be using the eco-friendly Econyl nylon for interior components of all next-generation Jaguar and Land Rover models. Made from recycled plastics and fishing nets, the fabric has made big inroads in the sustainable fashion industry and already appears in the BMW i3; it might be coming to a car near you in the not-too-distant future.

ISUZU D-MAX X-TERRAIN On sale in Australia: September 2020 Priced from: $62,900* Need to know: Has the Ford Ranger and Toyota HiLux in its sights. *plus on road costs

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JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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12/11/20 4:26 pm

We’ve got you covered 24/7 Roadside from only $9.85 a month

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12/11/20 4:26 pm

ROAD

THERE'S A REASON why everyone seems to have an SUV these days –

these all-rounders take on city and country driving with ease. But not all do it with the flair of the new Volkswagen T-Roc. Dale Campisi took the T-Roc down to Peppermint Bay for a spin.

Photos Adam Gibson

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drive

S

etting out to test drive the 2020 Volkswagen T-Roc on a daytrip to the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, I’m immediately struck by its compactness.

By measurement, it’s barely bigger than the Volkswagen Golf. But it’s bigger where it makes a discernible difference – in height from the ground.

My partner Mike is all over the interior features: dual-zone climate control, 8.0-inch infotainment touch screen including navigation and appconnect, and adjustable sport seats with ample room for long legs and a high-riding position.

Things get a little tighter in the back. As our six-foot-plus photographer travelling companion puts it, it’s not so small that you’ve got to get out to change your mind, but a drive to Launceston with the lads might get a bit long for those who draw the back seat.

Still, he concedes, it’s roomy enough for getting around town and short daytrips like our destination, Peppermint Bay. And parents will have no problem buckling and unbuckling their little ones or tucking a pram in the boot.

The T-Roc takes the Southern Outlet incline in its stride. Soon enough we’re sailing past the Margate Train, through sleepy Snug and into the Channel’s scenic rural landscapes. Behind the wheel, driving is sublime thanks to VW’s 4MOTION all-wheel drive and lane assist systems.

There’s kick in the engine when you want it, but that won’t help you achieve Volkswagen’s claim of 7.2L/100km fuel efficiency.

Popping into the Oyster Cove Store for fresh apples – where you’ll also find all you need for a harvest picnic – we started to get a real sense of the T-Roc’s aesthetic appeal. Everywhere we stopped, someone had a comment to make, including the local coppers. It’s sleek, confident and just a little flashy too.

The T-Roc handled the Kettering bends effortlessly. For a moment I wished our destination were further afield so I could enjoy the driving experience a little longer. Arriving at Peppermint Bay we couldn’t resist a cruise around the sea-level Woodbridge Jetty Road before pulling up in the hotel carpark.

“Are you sure you want to park next to me?”

Our friend the editor joked, observing the T-Roc’s sleekness, as we stepped out of the car beside his dusty Mazda 2.

Mike and I first visited Peppermint Bay Hotel in 2003 – the year it opened – on one of its daily

BOTH PAGES

(clockwise from far left) The T-Roc takes on the curves of Kettering; D'Entrecasteaux Channel views at Peppermint Bay; the channel separates the mainland and Bruny Island; Oyster Cove Store on the Channel Highway.

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drive

ferry transfers from Hobart. Seventeen years later the place still feels new and special, such is the power of its design. And then there’s the view across the Channel to Bruny Island.

We start with coffees in the sun as we peruse the seasonal menu by head chef Toby Annear.

Some of the produce comes from the hotel’s own kitchen garden, which you can inspect for yourself. Given the location, you can’t go past a seafood lunch – from classic crumbed fish and chips to Basque seafood stew. There’s something for everyone on the wine list, where Tassie producers dominate.

The serene setting calms busy minds, so don’t be surprised by the desire to stay longer than planned. A little after lunch we take a wander around the grounds and Woodbridge township, which yields photo opportunities aplenty with its quaint gift stores and a monthly market in the old town hall. We squeeze in the five-minute drive further south to Five Bob Farm, where visitors can take a walk along the sculpture trail and through a working cut flower and native pepper farm.

Back in the T-Roc, we test out the 300-watt Beats premium audio system, which delivers impressively smooth sound to match the drive back to Hobart, reaching a crescendo with the diamond-studded view of the Derwent Estuary as we descend Tolmans Hill.

On the road Need help? Roadside assistance is there, 24/7, on 13 11 11.

Member Rewards Visit the Oyster Cove Inn in Kettering and receive 10% off food with your RACT membership if you dine in and purchase two main meals or more.

THE SPECS MODEL • 140TSI Sport PRICING • Driveaway from $45,295* ENGINE TYPE • 2.0 litre TSI BlueMotion Technology turbocharged 4 cylinder MAX. TORQUE • 320nm @ 1500 to 4800rpm MAX. POWER • 140kw @ 4900 to 6000rpm PERFORMANCE 0-100KM/H • 7.2 seconds TRANSMISSION • 7 Speed DSG DRIVE TYPE • 4MOTION all-wheel drive FUEL TYPE • Premium unleaded FUEL CONSUMPTION (combined) • 7.2l / 100km

*Driveaway pricing based on MSRP and on-road costs.

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JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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12/11/20 5:03 pm

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12/11/20 5:03 pm

drive

d 0 -100 review

Audi Q3 40 TFSI SUV

As the switch to SUVs continues at a frenetic pace, buyers are looking to stand out from the crowd. Is the Audi Q3 40 TFSI quattro S line the one they’ve been waiting for?

Story Darren Moody MANY SUV CONVERTS are keen to shine among a sea of hatchbacks.

Enter Audi’s latest compact SUV in Sportback form. Lower, longer, with blistered guards filled with 20-inch wheels and the sloping rear hatch, the 2020 Audi Q3 40 TFSI has presence.

From a huge list of standard features, the Q3’s standouts are wireless Apple CarPlay, stunning 12.3-inch virtual cockpit, and the reverse camera and around-view display (essential with Audi’s Sportback design).

One $3900 option worth ticking includes a superb Bang & Olufsen 3D sound system, Matrix LED headlights (which all cars should have), sunroof, black exterior styling package and ambient interior lighting.

I’m a fan of Audi interiors – nobody does it better – and the latest Q3 is a marked improvement on the previous model, 28

THE SPECS PRICING • $61,900 (plus on-road costs) SAFETY • ANCAP 5-star 2018 date stamp ENGINE • 4-cylinder 2.0 litre petrol turbo charged (95 RON) MAX. TORQUE • 320Nm @ 1400 to 3940rpm MAX. POWER • 132kW @ 3900 to 6000rpm TRANSMISSION • 7-speed DSG auto DRIVE TYPE • Quattro AWD 0-100KM/H • 7.8 seconds

with a first-rate fit and finish. The S line’s leather electric seats are superb over distances and the back was comfortable even with its panoramic sunroof and sloping design. My only quibble – I’d prefer operating cruise control with steeringwheel buttons rather than a stalk.

I notched up nearly 800km in a week on varied roads in challenging weather.

The Q3 was athletic on country roads, comfortable on highways and unfussed in the city. Some reduced ride quality on rough, broken surfaces was likely exacerbated by the low-profile 20-inch tyres and sporty suspension bias. The responsiveness of the drivetrain made highway overtaking a breeze, while the DSG auto was seamless. Despite significant highway time, I couldn’t get near the claimed fuel consumption returning an average 9.7L/100km.

On well line-marked roads the Q3 tugs on the wheel if you stray and will sound alerts if your concentration seems to wander. Without active cruise control set, if you get too near the car in front you’ll get alerted that the AEB mightn’t help avoid collisions.

The warranty sits at three years with service intervals at 12 months or 15,000km.

JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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CANBERRA’S NEWEST H OT E L Whether you’re travelling for business or leisure, relax and enjoy the modern facilities at Mercure Canberra Belconnen with superior comfort suited for all guests. . 125 rooms . Enjoy premium spacious rooms all with modern technology and high-speed Wi-Fi . Perfectly located 10 minutes from the CBD, walking distance from Westfield Belconnen & University of Canberra. . 5 minute drive to Australian Institute of Sport, GIO Stadium & Calvary Public & Private hospitals. . 8kms away from The National Zoo & Aquarium and Canberra Aboretrum offering a fun day out. . Entertainment hub, adjoining the Canberra Labour Club precinct

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Photo: West by North West / Kramer Photography

TASMANIA’S ORCHESTRA The Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra is here for you.

Join us in 2021.

Subscriptions to the TSO’s 2021 season are now on sale.

Visit tso.com.au or call the TSO Box Office on 1800 001 190.

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Photo: West by North West / Kramer Photography

Alaskan exploration

73

Western wonderland

32 / TRAVEL NEWS 34 / A PLACE IN THE SUN 39 / THE PIT STOP 40 / HAVE YOU MET STANLEY?

76

Sri Lankan food tour

AUSTRALIA’S Up, up & away GREAT SOUTHERN TRAIN JOURNEY

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The stunning Flinders and King islands have never felt closer thanks to new regular flights from the Tasmanian mainland. Sharp Airlines’ three weekly return transfers from Hobart to Flinders and King took off at the end of September for an initial fourmonth trial. Seize the opportunity to check out the new boutique food, event and accommodation packages from The Flinders Wharf on Flinders Island; shack up in luxury at King Island’s Kittawa Lodge; or tee off beside the Southern Ocean at King Island Golf & Bowling Club’s famed nine holes (pictured). But be quick, the secret’s well and truly out about these two rugged gems in the Bass Strait.

For m

P For more, visit sharpairlines.com

ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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travel news.

The latest Tassie travel news

TOURING TASMANIA

With travellers craving fresh air and open spaces like never before, World Expeditions has launched a host of new Tassie tours. The cream of the crop is Peter Kuruvita's Tastes of Tasmania – with the celebrity chef escorting small groups around the island – plus the Mountains of Maria Island Experience and the self-guided Highlights of the Tarkine (right). If you’ve ever wanted to play explorer in your own backyard, this is your chance.

Local knowledge Tag your secret spot using @ractofficial and #yourjourneys as @jules.witek did with this amazing snap of Crescent Bay. A CASTLE FOR TWO

Shack life From the creaky to the chic, shacks are a beloved fixture along our coastline. Whether you want to find the ideal escape this summer or have reno plans for your own beloved shack, follow @tasmanian_shacklife, curated by proud shack owner Naomi Chandler, for some serious inspo.

Better yet, arrange a shack stay on the new booking platform tasmanianshacklife.com

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ON THE VERGE Adding to Launceston’s brood of high-end stays, Hotel Verge has opened in the heart of the CBD. With hip industrial styling and city views from every room, it’s the perfect excuse for a staycation. RACT members enjoy 10% off, too.

Photos: Naomi Chandler; The Keep; Jules Witek

Ever felt like kipping in a castle? Well now you can. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking rugged north-east wilderness, two hours’ drive from Launceston, the recently opened architect-designed The Keep is a one-bedroom luxury stay styled after a medieval keep tower. Add the optional private chef and make it one for the bucketlist.

JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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Photos: Naomi Chandler; The Keep; Jules Witek

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T

A

place in the

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Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Rob Burnett, Paul Flemming

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T

he puffer jacket has gone unworn for an entire week. Daylight hours are nearly double those of the night.

The suggestion of a swim almost sounds like an invitation rather than a dare. It must be summer in Tasmania. Time to load up a vehicle and gravitate back to the shack, that favourite campground, or a beloved beach.

Elspeth Callender talked to five locals about the places that keep luring them back.

travel

WUKALINA BADGER HEAD

LAUNCESTON

THE GARDENS

SPIKY BEACH

HOBART

Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Rob Burnett, Paul Flemming

01

wukalina and larapuna

Wukalina and larapuna are the original names for Mount William and the Bay of Fires. It’s no mystery why Clyde Mansell, palawa Elder and founder of the guided multi-day hike wukalina walk, is drawn to the island’s north-east. “Why those areas are so important to me and why I like them so much is that they are the traditional homelands of my ancestors.”

While Clyde was born and raised on Flinders Island and moved to Launceston at the age of 16, he is often to be found in Pyemmairrener Country. He and his wife even had a shack at Ansons Bay. “Lovely country. Lovely environment.”

Visitors can independently walk to the summit of wukalina/Mount William, which takes about 45 minutes, says Clyde.

“I always find it hard to do the last little bit before I get to the summit but, once you’re there, it’s the most fantastic view of the north-east and out to the islands.”

There’s plenty of Forester kangaroos, wombats, wallabies, and Cape Barren geese to see too.

The wukalina walk operates throughout the summer months and, for Clyde Mansell, that means more time on Country sharing culture.

SOUTHPORT

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Badger Head

Badger Head is in Narawntapu National Park to the west of the mouth of kanamaluka/River Tamar. Steve Howell, co-owner of Blue Derby Pods Ride, has a massive soft spot for the place. “There are so many memories from going [there] with lots of different groups of friends and relatives.” He went as a child with his parents, surfed with high school friends and carefully chose the location for one of the first dates with his now wife and business partner, Tara Howell.

“It’s the most stunning spot and probably my favourite coastal run because you’re up on the headland and there’s low grassy scrubland so you get these extensive views.” Steve also loves walking to lesser-known Copper Cove.

“You’re following this beautiful trail up and over the hills and then you drop down into a series of little coves, which are quite protected with beautiful pebbly beaches.”

A quintessential Tassie summer, for Steve Howell, is being at the beach and “needing to jump back in the water more than once”. He and Tara are introducing their baby to Badger Head this summer.

03

Spiky beach

Spiky Beach is found on the western shore of Oyster Bay. When wine educator Curly Haslam-Coates first visited from England its affect on her was profound: “Spiky Beach is my absolute. I love it. That was the place… I knew I was home.”

Within two years, Curly had moved to Australia and now identifies as a Tasmanian ambassador.

The beach got its name from 36

nearby Spiky Bridge, built by convicts in 1843. Curly returns time and time again to this rocky beach with its sweep of sand. “I love just being a child, scrambling on the rocks, looking out to sea and seeing what things I can see on the beach.”

One of the joys of a Tasmanian summer for Curly Haslam-Coates is “that lovely shoes-off moment” when footwear becomes entirely optional.

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Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Jess Bonde / Luke Tscharke; Rob Burnett, East Coast Tasmania / @sideprjct; Nikki To; Emma Phillips; Natalie Mendham; Chris Crerar

02

Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Jess Bonde / Luke Tscharke; Rob Burnett, East Coast Tasmania / @sideprjct; Nikki To; Emma Phillips; Natalie Mendham; Chris Crerar

04

The Gardens

The Gardens is at larapuna/Bay of Fires, near St Helens, on the north-east coast. Musician and producer Monique Brumby has vivid memories of family Christmas holidays camping among the teatrees by the ocean. “We used to go there every summer.” They’d search for cowry shells, fish off the rocks, cook over an open fire and gorge on her grandfather’s home-brew, beer-battered crayfish patties.

Monique still remembers “the red lichen boulders silhouetted by a moonlit night”.

St Helens Bakery, she says, does great crinkle-cut chips. Monique suggests taking them to The Gardens where you can “wriggle your toes in the sand, eat hot chips and stare out at the ocean, lucky that you have such a beautiful place to live”.

There’s a lot Monique Brumby loves about a Tasmanian summer: “I love white sand between my toes.

I love the long summer nights. I like the feeling of being connected to the earth and to nature and to ancestry, and to something that’s tangible”.

05

Southport

Southport is almost as far south as you can drive in Tasmania. On a cracking day New Zealand-born chef Analiese Gregory heads down to Southport Lagoon. “There’s some really good shore fishing at the mouth of the lagoon to catch things like Aussie salmon. So I do that, go for dives down there and take lunch and just sunbathe on a rock shelf.”

She’s fond of the Southport Hotel, Australia’s southernmost pub, where giant stuffed crabs adorn the walls above the bar.

Analiese sticks to beer or a G&T there. “It’s more about the place and not about the beverages.”

What Analiese Gregory loves most about summer in Tasmania is that it stays light until 9pm.

Sometimes while exploring outdoors, she’ll lose track of time, find accommodation for the night and go diving again in the morning.

On the road Need help? Roadside assistance is there, 24/7, on 13 11 11.

Resources Stay safe in the sea this summer with Surf Life Saving Australia's Beachsafe app.

Member Rewards Check out the summer holiday savings you can make as a RACT member on page 62.

ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Chris Crerar; Adam Gibsoon

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travel

If Launceston was a love interest, then the courtship would be long and the attachment lasting. This understated, friendly northern city will slowly but surely draw you in, give you love and feed you well. Elspeth Callender shares her tips for where to start your romance…

Launceston The PIT STOP

EAT Take one chef with an insatiable passion for Japanese cuisine and add fresh Tassie produce. Mix well, fold in two dozen seats, sprinkle with an arcade game-related name and you have Quadrant Mall’s Pachinko. Yes, it is licensed and, yes, there is always ramen.

ESSENTIAL STOPS

• Pachinko • Havilah • Design Tasmania • Harvest Market • Hope & Me • Change Overnight

Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Chris Crerar; Adam Gibsoon

DRINK Havilah is a wine bar with a food obsession, which doubles as a cellar door on Sundays. It opened in mid-2020 and its wide-ranging wine list is carefully curated by the owners, one of whom is a winemaker. Shared plates favour local, seasonal ingredients and service can be deliciously cheeky.

SEE Design Tasmania, in the Gary Cleveland Galleries in City Park, is a not-for-profit enabler of design innovation. Events, exhibitions and activities take place across five interconnected spaces. The work found in the extensive Wood Collection is exclusively made in Tasmania by local designers.

SHOP Don’t miss Saturday’s Harvest Market for excellent local produce.

If your purchasing enthusiasm extends beyond what can be

NORTH ESK RIVER CITY PARK

chewed and slurped, then drop into Hope & Me in Quadrant Mall for predominantly Australian and New Zealand made homewares, baby accessories, stationery and gifts.

STAY Change Overnight is Australia’s first social-enterprise hotel, with a portion of your room rate donated to one of eight Australian and international causes. This boutique, self-check-in hotel in a centrally located re-purposed warehouse has 18 self-contained apartments, of which two are accessible.

PRINCE'S PARK

ABOVE

(Top to bottom) Havilah wine bar; Design Tasmania; Change Overnight.

ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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travel

Have you met

Stanley?

SITTING PRETTY on the north-west tip

of Tasmania, the scenic fishing village of Stanley is luring new visitors.

Story Andrew Bain

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JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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O

PROVENANCE KITCHEN HIGHFIELD GODFREYS BEACH TASMANIAN WINE AND FOOD THE NUT

STANLEY SHIP INN

TATLOWS BEACH

Photography: Chris Crerar; courtesy Tourism Tasmania; Stanley & Tarkine Tourism

n Godfreys Beach in Stanley, the surf is thundering ashore. Dusk has fallen, and lines of little penguins are beginning their trek home, even if in these conditions it’s less a march than a penguin surf carnival.

As the birds wobble across the rocky shores, I’m standing on Stanley’s new penguin-viewing boardwalk, clipped along the foot of the Nut. Lights along the boardwalk cast a faint red glow that illuminates the penguins without disturbing them as they climb off the beach and pass beneath the boardwalk to their burrows hidden in the coastal scrub.

It’s one of those moments that speaks volumes about the intrinsic beauty of Stanley, the northwest fishing town that co-exists so seamlessly with nature. With its colonial-era buildings as colourful as a bag of boiled sweets, Stanley sits pinched between a pair of long beaches – Godfreys and Tatlows – with the immense volcanic plug known as the Nut towering overhead.

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Australian fur seals laze about just offshore on Bull Rock. The 19th-century streetscape could be a period film set, but there are other things here as new and fresh as the air that’s been declared the cleanest in the world.

My own burrow this night is the Ship Inn Stanley. This country inn was a vital part of Stanley’s history. It was built in 1849 (just two years after the Stanley Hotel) by Michael Lyons, grandfather of Prime Minister Joseph Lyons, the only Tasmanian to serve as Australian PM. The cottage in which Joseph was born is next door.

The inn operated as a pub until 1972 before being flagged for demolition. Thankfully, it survived, and in late 2019 was reborn as boutique accommodation, with seven beautifully designed suites telling individual stories of the area.

In September 2020 the two-level, two-bedroom Roaring Tom’s apartment was added to the inn’s offerings. Once the inn’s bar, the apartment blends

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There are other things here as new and fresh as the air that’s been declared the cleanest in the world. original features with a modern chef’s kitchen, complete with a three-metre-long island bench, and three outdoor patios that combine to deliver almost wraparound views of Tatlows Beach and the Nut. It’s perfect for two couples or an extended family.

Stanley’s history has been similarly transformed at the Highfield Historic Site, the former headquarters of the pioneering Van Diemen’s Land Company. Built in 1832, the grand house peers down on Stanley from atop a low ridge and

ABOVE

(clockwise from top left) The new owners returned the Ship Inn to its original name; the luxe stay nestles into the Nut; each suite at the Ship Inn is individually styled.

JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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Photography: Chris Crerar; Tourism Tasmania / Marnie Hawson; Ship Inn; Provenance Kitchen

travel

THIS PAGE

(clockwise from left)

Photography: Chris Crerar; Tourism Tasmania / Marnie Hawson; Ship Inn; Provenance Kitchen

Highfield House is open to the public seven days a week; foodie Emma Bruce; Cape Grim Beef stars in Emma’s cooking classes.

is today the setting for cooking classes with a local flavour from Provenance Kitchen.

Run by local vet and staunch foodie Emma Bruce, the half-day or full-day classes, using a commercial kitchen hidden away in Highfield’s barn, bring a unique connection to place. Emma’s family owns and farms the surrounding land, and for a while in the ’80s their property incorporated Highfield House.

The classes focus on Cape Grim Beef, which the Bruce family produces, and include visits to the farm to meet the herd, as well as to the nearby abalone farm and foraging for the likes of samphire, wild garlic and sea lettuce.

“I’ve always been completely obsessed by food,” Emma says. “In this part of the state, we produce some of the best food in the world. We get out here and talk cattle and run people through what we do on the farm and all the things that go into making a piece of Cape Grim steak.”

Back in town, Stanley ’s 19th- century weatherboard cottages house a string of galleries, stores, B&Bs and cafes as colourful as their facades.

Getting there Stanley is about a 2.5-hour drive from Launceston on the Bass Highway.

Resources Go to parks.tas.gov.au to find out more about the Highfield Historic Site.

Inspiration See Stanley on the silver screen in Hollywood period film The Light Between Oceans.

Even when the sun sets and the penguins have signed off for the night, things remain vibrant inside Tasmanian Wine and Food.

This small wine bar, opposite the Stanley Hotel, has the atmosphere of a Prohibition-era speakeasy. The design is eclectic in the extreme – think steampunk sunglasses sitting beside a Victorian-era clock and glowing uranium glass.

It’s a fascinating and entertaining space (see if you can find the book about cannibalism on the shelves) in which to enjoy a Tasmanian wine or gin, or a whisky from a small global list.

Owners Michael Pine and Shelley Jackson describe the bar’s quirky design as an extension of their own collector habits.

“We realised we had a problem when we bought a couch – our third one of the day,” Michael says.

“The main thing we do is have fun, and because we enjoy what we do, people come in and they have fun.

“Our philosophy is that we serve the best that Tasmania offers.”

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Head to your local visitor information centre or see makeyourselfathome.com.au to fi nd travel deals and specials, what’s open, and book places to stay, eat and drink, guided activities, experiences and attractions across Tasmania. For current information about visiting national parks, see parks.tas.gov.au

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NORTHERN FORAGE GREAT EASTERN DRIVE

WESTERN WILDS HEARTLANDS

SOUTHERN EDGE

Find your own true north along the wild coastline of Bass Strait.

Slow down, forage and dine at the source of some of Australia’s finest fresh produce.

Road test five new self-drive journeys Quiet roads, empty beaches, well-stocked cellars and an entire lush island to explore.

Now is the perfect time to take a road trip, visit old haunts, tick something off the bucket list and make a few new memories. Get inspired with our fi ve selfdrive journeys, with itineraries and trails for every interest.

Pick a destination, savour the journey, and be sure to allow time for the detours to somewhere special.

Reasons to love the Northern Forage FRESH AIR. Fill your lungs with the freshest air in the world at Cape Grim. Stand atop The Nut, the impressive remains of an ancient volcanic plug. Catch your breath near Arthur River at the windswept Edge of the World and watch swells roll in from across thousands of kilometres of unbroken ocean.

Blue Derby Mountain Bike Trails

Four days in the central north Graze your way out of Deloraine and across the fertile food bowl of the north west, with Bass Strait views along the way.

The journey continues at discovertasmania.com.au/ journeys

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FORAGING. Unearth rare black truff les with Doug the truff le dog at Tasmanian Truff les, and tour the groves at Hazelbrae Hazelnuts.

Morning tea is as fresh and local as it gets at Tasmanian Food and Wine Conservatory, set in a chic converted greenhouse.

41° South Tasmania Salmon and Ginseng Farm

DAY 1 | DELORAINE Clustered together like a three-course meal just outside Deloraine are the delights of Tasmanian Truff les, 3 Willows Vineyard and 41° South Tasmania, an inland salmon farm, wetland and ginseng plantation.

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NATURE. Visit Australia’s largest temperate rainforest at takayna/ Tarkine and stop for mobs of wildlife at Narawntapu National Park. Make a sunset stop for platypus-spotting at the Empire Hotel. Rocky Cape National Park is a place of sea caves, sheltered beaches and coastal walks.

A 15-minute walk from the lighthouse leads to North Cave, once used as a shelter by Tasmanian Aboriginal people.

ADVENTURE. The Northern Forage spans some of the world’s great mountain-biking destinations, its centrepiece the network of purposebuilt trails at Blue Derby. If mountain trails aren’t for you, try a zipline, Segway or swing through the trees at Hollybank Wilderness Adventures.

Or, lose the kids (for a moment) at Tasmazia & the Village of Lower Crackpot, in one of the world’s largest maze complexes.

THE FLOATING SAUNA. Feel the difference after a session at Floating Sauna Lake Derby, Australia’s only floating wood-fi red sauna. Heat up then dive into the lake.

UNNATURAL BEAUTY. Contemplate the brilliant blue of the Little Blue Lake, a beautiful lake formed by alluvial tin mining.

The Nut

MAKERS WORKSHOPS. Roll up your sleeves for a papermaking class with Creative Paper Tasmania, a soapmaking workshop at Bridestowe Lavender Estate or a cooking class with Hinton Bay Kitchen. Pour and wax-seal your own bottle of whisky at Hellyers Road Distillery.

HISTORY. Visit Low Head Pilot Station Maritime Museum to learn about the journey that founded Melbourne.

Explore the photogenic ruins of Mount Paris Dam built in the 1930s to supply tin mines with water. And see a 1903 Model A Ford in the vintage-car collection at Wonders of Wynyard.

Hazelbrae at Hagley

DAY 2 | DELORAINE TO PENGUIN Pick your very own morning feast at The Berry Patch in Turners Beach. Set sail from Ulverstone to explore the Leven River with Leven River Cruises.

Bird life along the waterway might include white-bellied sea eagles and the rare Tasmanian azure kingfi sher.

Take a detour off the highway to follow the stunning coastal road between Ulverstone and Penguin.

DAY 3 | PENGUIN TO WYNYARD Join the Whisky Walk tour at Hellyers Road Distillery to learn about this Burnie distillery, founded by a group of dairy farmers. Stop for lunch at Providence Farm Stall on a fourhectare farm outside Wynyard, serving local produce influenced by the owner’s Portuguese heritage.

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DAY 4 | WYNYARD TO SISTERS BEACH Venture up and onto Table Cape, the remains of a 12-million-year-old volcano responsible for the area’s fertile soil. Meet the world’s largest freshwater crayfi sh species at the Lobster Ponds in Flowerdale.

Hellyers Road Distillery

Table Cape Tulip Farm

For more itineraries including: Four days in the east Tamar, four days in the west Tamar, four days in the north west visit discovertasmania.com.au/journeys

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The Gardens, Bay of Fires Conservation Area

Reasons to love the Great Eastern Drive

Fall in love all over again with the sparkling coastlines of the Great Eastern Drive. Just you, the open road and good company.

Pull over to follow an unknown beach track, order seafood at a local fish shack, and fall asleep to an ocean soundtrack.

ALL4Adventure Quad Bike Tours

Three days around Orford and Maria Island Tasmania’s island national park has abundant wildlife, natural wonders and rich history, with more treats waiting at nearby Orford.

FRESH SEAFOOD. Sample oysters and mussels plucked straight from the leases at Freycinet Marine Farm. Oyster Bay Tours offers a detailed look at the farm’s briny life and instruction in the art of oyster-shucking, or settle with a seafood meal on the dining deck at the Lobster Shack, just steps from the fi shing fleet in Bicheno.

CELLAR DOORS. Rustic Gala Estate has been owned by the same family since 1821. Another pioneer of east-coast wine is Freycinet Vineyard, fi rst planted in 1979. Visit Spring Vale Vineyard and its cellar door in a stable built by convicts in 1842.

WILDLIFE. Step ashore on Maria Island to see wombats, wallabies, Cape Barren geese and Tasmanian devils. Join Bicheno Penguin Tours to watch little penguins shuff le ashore, or stop at East Coast Natureworld for cuddles with rescued fur-babies.

BEACHES. The flawless arc of Wineglass Bay steals hearts, but

the Great Eastern Drive is lined with stunning beaches you’ll probably have all to yourself. Appreciate the unusual colour palette of white sand, orange boulders and blue seas at larapuna/ Bay of Fires.

NATIONAL PARKS. Freycinet is the state’s oldest national park, with postcard beaches draped across the toes of bare granite peaks. DouglasApsley National Park flies under the radar, but its hills and spectacular gorges are ideal for hiking and swimming. In Mount William National Park, it’s empty white beaches by day and crowds of wildlife by night.

FAMILY FUN. Go for a spin on St Helens Mountain Bike Trails, with tracks for all levels. Cruise Freycinet on ALL4Adventure’s quad bikes or fi nd a protected beach and choose the perfect site to build an elaborate sand castle.

WATERWAYS. Wineglass Bay Cruises delivers stunning views of the island’s most photogenic beach. Explore waterways by kayak with Secret River Tours or try game fi shing at St Helens with Keen Angler Charters.

DAY 1 | HOBART TO ORFORD Stop in at the Tasmanian Bushland Garden, a 20-hectare botanic garden planted entirely with native and endemic plants. Synchronise to coastal time with a wine tasting at Darlington Vineyard, or a whisky and gin tasting and tour at Spring Bay Distillery.

DAY 2 | MARIA ISLAND Take the morning Encounter Maria Island ferry from Triabunna to Maria Island, the island national park blessed with mountains, beaches, convict history and teeming wildlife. From Darlington, it’s a two-kilometre walk to the whimsically patterned Painted Cliff s.

DAY 3 | ORFORD AND SURROUNDS Head up into the tall gums and towering views of the Three Thumbs Lookout south of town. East Coast Cruises runs half-day trips to the fur-seal colony on isolated Ile des Phoques. Head north on the Tasman Highway and stop for cellar-door tastings at Boomer Creek Vineyard.

Convict Barn and Clinker Store

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For more itineraries including: Three days around Swansea and Bicheno, four days on Freycinet Peninsula and four days in the north east visit discovertasmania.com.au/journeys

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GRAZING. Dawdle between farm gates, roadside stalls and markets in the Huon Valley. Take a short ferry ride across to Bruny Island for oysters and artisanal cheese. Or, roll up your sleeves for cooking classes with Farmhouse Kitchen and Fat Pig Farm.

Tahune Adventures Airwalk

Contemplate Australia’s southernmost edge, next stop Antarctica.

Explore the hidden coves of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel and Bruny Island, stock up on fresh produce (and cider) from the Huon Valley and venture into the South West Wilderness for star-gazing, nature and solitude.

TIPPLE TRAILS. Follow the Huon Valley Cider Trail, taking in the likes of Pagan Cider, Willie Smith’s Apple Shed, and Frank’s Cider House & Cafe. For something a bit different, swing by Hartshorn Distillery for sheep’s whey vodka and gin, and the Bakehouse Distillery at Dover for Evoke sassafras spirit.

AURORA AUSTRALIS. Is seeing the southern lights still on your bucket list? Tassie is one of the few places in the world where it’s possible to see the elusive natural lightshow of Aurora Australis. Chances improve the further south you head.

Reasons to love the Southern Edge WATER ADVENTURES. Explore the far south by kayak with Esperance Adventures or, for higher-octane adventure, take a ride with Bruny Island Cruises around a dramatic shoreline of caves, stacks and cliff s teeming with marine life. Venture into the remote waterways of the South West Wilderness with charters by Peninsula Cruising, or under sail with Yukon Tours.

Three days in the far south Enter a portal to one of the last great wild places on Earth.

There’s no better place to explore, feed your sense of adventure and contemplate life’s big questions.

DAY 1 | PORT HUON TO DOVER Fill the hamper on your way through the Huon Valley. Call ahead for bread and liquor made side by side at the century-old Dover Bakehouse Distillery. Stroll the Dover waterfront at dusk or drop a fi shing line at the jetty. No bites?

Head to Post Offi ce 6985 for fresh seafood and regional fare.

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THE EDGE. Take a drive to Cockle Creek, Australia’s southernmost point. Standing at the edge of a vast expanse of wilderness, whipped by air fresh from Antarctica is nothing short of exhilarating. Or, rise above it all with Tahune Airwalk, a 600-metre canopy walk suspended in the forest with a fi nal cantilevered section 50 metres above the Huon River.

The Neck, Bruny Island

WILDERNESS. See thousand-yearold Huon pines in untamed forests.

Insiders recommend the South Cape Bay Track or the challenging 85-kilometre South Coast Track.

For a day walk in another world, head to Hartz Mountains National Park for landscapes shaped by glaciers.

DAY 2 | DOVER TO SOUTHPORT OR COCKLE CREEK Head underground to Hastings Caves State Reserve, a network of spectacular caves and forest walks.

Newdegate Cave is one of the few dolomite caves in Australia. Lunaris Gemstones is an Aladdin’s cave of rare fossils, minerals, gems and curiosities.

DAY 3 | SOUTHPORT TO HOBART Float beneath Adamsons Peak and the Southern Ranges on a kayak tour of Lune River with Esperance Adventures. Take the slow way home with stops at cideries and cellar doors, such as Kate Hill Wines in Huonville.

Newdegate Cave, Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs

For more itineraries including: Three-day channel loop, four days on Bruny Island and four days in the Huon Valley visit discovertasmania.com.au/journeys

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Fly fishing with Karen Brooks at Driftwater

VAST VIEWS. The Central Highlands landscape is carved by hundreds of lakes and waterfalls. Head for the heights of Quamby Bluff for panoramic views across northern Tasmania. Or set aside a day for the 10-kilometre return walk to Meander Falls.

CONVICT STORIES. Much of the colonial architecture of the Heartlands was built using convict labour. Learn about pioneer farming at Woolmers and Brickendon heritage-listed convict sites.

Stop to admire the intricate carvings of Ross Bridge and hear the stories of Ross Female Factory.

UNDERGROUND SCENES. Explore the intricate network of limestone caves around Mole Creek. Take a tour with a park ranger at Marakoopa Cave or gear up for a spelunking trip with Wild Cave Tours.

Detour on convict-built roads and stroll past Georgian-era facades to rediscover the country hospitality you remember. Rise through the Great Western Tiers to explore steam-age and hydro-industrial history against the picturesque backdrop of mountains, lakes and moors.

Reasons to love the Heartlands HERITAGE TOWNS. Strolling through the Heartlands’ colonial towns is like stepping onto the live set of a period drama. Colonial-era gems include Ross, Evandale and Oatlands, which has Australia’s largest collection of sandstone Georgian buildings.

Four days in the northern midlands This cluster of historical towns close to Launceston creates a fascinating constellation of natural beauty and colonial heritage.

DAY 1 | LAUNCESTON TO LONGFORD With its entire townscape classifi ed by the National Trust, Evandale is a treasury of historical buildings.

Clarendon is one of Australia’s grandest colonial estates, with an elegant portico and a heritage walled garden.

INDUSTRIAL AND FARMING HISTORY. The Tasmanian Wool Centre in Ross traces the history of the wool industry across the Midlands. Follow the Highlands Power Trail to trace the history of Tasmania’s hydroelectric scheme.

FLY FISHING. One of the world’s great trout fi sheries, the rivers and lakes of the Central Highlands are home to arguably the purest strain of wild brown trout on Earth. Try your hand catching them, with fly fi shing guides from companies including RiverFly 1864, Red Tag Trout Tours, Driftwater or Rainbow Lodge.

WHISKY. Stop by the charming roadside stall at Shene Distillery for some gin and whisky and stay for tastings and a tour of the convict-built estate. And nearby, step into the grandeur of the transformed coaching inn at Old Kempton Distillery. Other malt marvels can be found at Adams Distillery in Perth and Launceston Distillery.

TREASURE HUNTING. Antique stores dot the heritage streetscapes of towns including Oatlands, Campbell Town and Evandale. Don’t miss the Book Cellar, located beneath a former coaching inn in Campbell Town.

DAY 2 | LONGFORD TO WESTBURY As the trout-shaped street signs attest, the town of Cressy doesn’t mind its fly fi shing and offers access to some of the world’s best fly fi shing waters - the likes of Brumby’s Creek, the Weirs and the Macquarie River.

Find a local fi shing guide at Trout Territory.

DAY 3 | CRESSY TO WESTBURY Source baked goods from the Rustic Bakehouse in Cressy and head to the Bracknell River Reserve for a scenic stop beside the Liffey River.

The classically Georgian architecture of Westbury has a distinctly English air.

For more itineraries including: Three days in the central highlands, three days in the southern midlands, three days around Deloraine visit discovertasmania.com.au/journeys

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DAY 4 | WESTBURY TO LAUNCESTON Start the day on foot along the Westbury Silhouette Trail, an easy hour-long walk that connects eight artworks and nods to Westbury’s early days as a garrison town. Explore farming history at Pearn’s Steam World, which houses more than 200 steam engines and tractors.

Pearn’s Steam World

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Pumphouse Point, Lake St Clair

Find yourself a world away in the wild landscapes of the west.

Take a scenic steam train ride through temperate rainforest, haunt a local ghost town, negotiate the 99 Bends or visit Tasmania’s third oldest settlement, New Norfolk. Cross terrain of mountains and glacial valleys, rivers and ancient coastline with roads and lookouts all to yourself.

Reasons to love the Western Wilds

LOCAL HISTORY. Explore Zeehan’s West Coast Heritage Centre, housed in four remarkable old buildings, where themed exhibitions interpret the area’s rich industrial and social heritage.

In Queenstown, stop for a classic movie in the warmer months at the Art Deco Paragon Theatre.

99 BENDS. Take the Lyell Highway west and drive the infamous 99 Bends on Queenstown’s outskirts. Stretch your legs on short walks or at roadside lookouts.

Heritage wilderness with Tassie Bound Adventure Tours.

WILDERNESS. Lace up your walking boots to conquer the likes of Cradle Mountain or Mount Murchison, explore Mount Field or Southwest National Park. Or journey by steam train along 35 kilometres of wild rainforest track, including the King River Gorge with West Coast Wilderness Railway.

FRONTIER STORIES. Spend an hour or two haunting a ghost town at Linda and Gormanston, then settle in for a performance of The Ship That Never Was, a true story about the convict shipwrights who hijacked the last ship ever built on Sarah Island. Cruise on the Gordon River with World Heritage Cruises or Gordon River Cruises.

ADVENTURE. Take the plunge on the southern hemisphere’s highest commercial abseil at Strathgordon with Aardvark Adventures. Navigate the raging rapids of the Franklin River with King River Rafting. Shred the steep mountain bike trails at Maydena Bike Park, and kayak in World

CALM CORINNA. At the southern edge of the vast takayna/Tarkine wilderness are some of the densest temperate rainforest in Australia, a living link with Gondwana. Kayak to Lovers Falls or float serenely on the river in an early-morning mist. Replenish with a meal at the Tarkine Hotel.

Four days in the central west

DAY 2 | TARRALEAH TO LAKE ST CLAIR Lake St Clair is Australia’s deepest freshwater lake and marks the southern end of Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. Walk the shores and dense forests of ancient pines with dramatic mountain backdrops and stay overnight at Lake St Clair’s wilderness retreat, Pumphouse Point.

Plan a highland fling in the ‘lake district’ of the Central Highlands, known for its lakeside lodges, alpine wilderness and hydro history.

DAY 1 | HAMILTON TO TARRALEAH The village of Hamilton is surrounded by historic estates and farm stays, such as Curringa Farm, where it’s easy to get back in touch with rural life.

Whisky lovers can stop for cellar-door tastings at Lawrenny Estate Distillery in Ouse, en route to the old hydro town of Tarraleah.

DAY 3 | LAKE ST CLAIR TO CENTRAL HIGHLANDS Travel to Lake Augusta for a peaceful day and night at Thousand Lakes Lodge, a perfect way to unplug and recharge. Outdoors, prepare for fly fi shing, walking or e-biking. Or curl up inside with a book.

For more itineraries including: Four days in the Derwent Valley, four days on the west coast and four days in the north west visit discovertasmania.com.au/journeys

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RETREATS. Above the glacial waters of Lake St Clair, Pumphouse Point is a wilderness retreat like no other.

Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge offers creature comforts and spa treatments overlooking World Heritage wilderness.

99 bends, Queenstown

Thousand Lakes Lodge

DAY 4 | CENTRAL HIGHLANDS TO WADDAMANA Skirt the Central Plateau Conservation Area, known as the “land of a thousand lakes”, with its impressive glacial and alpine landscape. Stop at Shannon, Waddamana Canal and Penstock Lagoon, before visiting the historic centrepiece of Tassie’s hydo-power scheme, Waddamana Power Station.

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Experience trails for modern explorers Food & Wine CRADLE TO COAST TASTING TRAIL. Follow your nose to more than 30 of the north west’s fi nest farms, cellar doors, distilleries and makers.

Tarraleah Power Station

History & Heritage HERITAGE HIGHWAY. Follow the original route between Launceston and Hobart, built by convict road gangs in the early 1800s.

HIGHLANDS POWER TRAIL. Trace the history of Tasmania’s hydroelectric scheme through the Central Highlands.

Get Shucked – Bruny Island Oysters

Whisky, Beer & Cider

TAMAR VALLEY WINE TRAIL. Take a country drive through the cool-climate vineyards of the Tamar Valley and Pipers River, and allow time for cellar-door chatting.

TASMAN WINE AND SPIRITS TRAIL. Discover boutique wineries and artisan distilleries among the scenery and historic sites of the Tasman Peninsula.

CRADLE COAST WINE TRAIL. Visit friendly cellar doors for tastings overlooking the vines, paired with the north west’s bountiful produce.

TASMANIAN WHISKY TRAIL. Meet the makers and discover the stories behind the island’s renowned distilleries.

EAST COAST WINE TRAIL. Enjoy dramatic coastal views and meet growers and cool-climate winemakers at wineries along the east coast.

TASMANIAN CIDER TRAIL. Sample boutique ciders from the orchards of the Huon Valley, and the fertile soils of the north west.

SOUTHERN WINE TRAIL. Explore a constellation of vineyards in close proximity to Hobart and sample the south’s premium wines.

TASMANIAN BEER TRAIL. Visit more than 20 breweries, sample local brews and uncover Tasmania’s rich beer-making history, dating back to convict times.

CONVICT TRAIL. Discover Tasmania’s south including the historic town of Richmond, the world heritage-listed Port Arthur Historic Sites and the beautiful Tasman Peninsula.

Port Arthur Historic Site

Tasmanian House of Whisky

Continue your journey planning at discovertasmania.com.au/journeys PHOTO CREDITS COVER: © Stu Gibson. NORTHERN FORAGE: Top L-R © Revolution MTB, © Kelly Slater © Tourism Tasmania and Jason Charles Hill. Four days in the central north L-R © Tourism Tasmania and Adam Gibson, © Lauren Bath, © S.Group. GREAT EASTERN DRIVE: Top L-R © Tourism Tasmania and Rob Burnett, © Lisa Kuilenburg. Three days around Orford and Maria Island © Stu Gibson. SOUTHERN EDGE: Top L-R © Tahune Adventures Tasmania, © Adam Gibson. Three days in the far south © Lauren Bath. HEARTLANDS: © Samuel Shelley. Four days in the northern midlands © Chris Crerar. WESTERN WILDS: Top L-R © Adam Gibson, © Ollie Khedun. Four days in the central west © Alice Hansen. BACK: Clockwise from top left © Stu Gibson, © Adam Gibson, © Adam Gibson, © Hype TV.

This guide has been developed by Tourism Tasmania in partnership with the Regional Tourism Organisations.

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MEMBER REWARDS REAR VIEW

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Alaskan exploration

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Sri Lankan food tour

SOME FACTS ABOUT DEVILS… Tasmanian devils are born the size of a grain of rice but can grow anywhere up to 14kg.

Devils are scavengers and in the wild can devour up to 40% of their body weight in one sitting.

Road kill can prove tempting to wild devils – please slow down and watch out for devils and other wildlife on our roads this summer, especially if you’re driving around dusk and after dark.

Name our joey Our friends at Devils @ Cradle have welcomed a joey into the world and we’re sponsoring the little guy to help support this endangered species. But there’s a catch – he still needs a name...

Send in your name ideas and you’ll go in the draw to win a night in a Deluxe Spa Room at Cradle Mountain Hotel for two adults and two children, plus four passes to Devils @ Cradle.

You’ll even get to meet our little devil.

P To enter and for full details go to

cradlemountainhotel.com.au/name-our-joey

P Stay with us and visit Devils @ Cradle, for more information go to cradlemountainhotel.com.au/specialoffers

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the latest.

COMMUNITY CORNER

Join Billy, Bear and Emily on their big day out – all while staying safe on the road, of course. Yippee! is our new children’s book designed to introduce the importance of positive road safety habits at an early age.

A fun combination of colourful illustrations and easy-to-follow rhymes, we’ll be using Yippee! in pre-schools, schools and the wider community.

Looking for more ways to talk about road safety with your kids?

Talk about road safety whenever you’re near a busy road with your children.

Hold hands with your children at all times when crossing the road.

Make sure your children are correctly restrained while in the car.

Model road safety behaviours in front of your children.

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JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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Photos: iStockphoto, RACT

Yippee!

community

Back to school

Our school and community programs are available for bookings in 2021. For more information and to register visit ract.com.au/education RoadSafe Grade 3 and 4 students learn about road safety through a series of online quizzes, videos and games. Our road safety experts will guide your class through the first lesson, with teachers leading students through the remainder of the course.

Photos: iStockphoto, RACT

Years Ahead: Misunderstood Road Rules If it’s been a while since you started driving, then it might be time to brush up on your road rules knowledge. Available for community groups or clubs, this program will uncover the top five misunderstood

road rules, including what to do at intersections, when to indicate and roundabouts.

Distracted Driving Under the supervision of an RACT Driver Trainer in a dualcontrolled car, learner drivers attempt to navigate a course while texting, wearing visionimpairment goggles and being interrupted by passengers – giving a hands-on example of the dangers of being distracted behind the wheel. Students will also take part in a classroom presentation about the responsibilities of driving on our roads.

Farewell Peter Joyce We recently said farewell to long-serving Board member, Peter Joyce. Peter has sat on our Board for the past 15 years, serving as President between 2013 and 2016.

During his time with us, Peter has seen significant changes and milestones, including the redevelopment of RACT House in Hobart, the acquisition of our Destinations business, the first trial of driverless technology in Tasmania and welcoming our 200,000th member.

Peter’s commitment to road safety runs deep, having served as President of the Australian Automobile Association (AAA) and Treasurer of the Federation Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA).

Last year, we were pleased to induct Peter as an RACT Honorary Life Member.

We send our sincere gratitude to Peter and thank him for his dedication and commitment to supporting the lives of Tasmanians. We wish him luck for the future.

For the results of our 2020 Board Election and Annual General Meeting visit ract.com.au/agm

ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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12/11/20 5:31 pm

SET YOUR SUMMER FITNESS GOAL

December 13

February 28

launcestonrunningfestival.com.au

hobartrunthebridge.com.au

* 20% off to RACT members for both events. Enter online and use the code #RACT20

MCMF INVESTMENT RATES NET RETURN ON INVESTMENT

NET RETURN ON INVESTMENT

CURRENT PERFORMANCE:

LAST QUARTER PERFORMANCE:

2.70% 2.73% p.a*

Stephen Cox

Bryce Harding

p.a*

LAST YEAR PERFORMANCE:

3.24%

p.a*

Returns are net of fees and are likely to change in line with changes in market interest rates. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance. There is a risk that an investment in the fund will achieve lower than expected returns. An investment in the fund is an equity investment in a managed investment scheme. It is not a bank deposit. An investor faces a higher risk of losing some or all their investment than is the case with a bank deposit. This information does not take into account the investment objectives, financial situation or particular needs of any investor. Before making any investment decision, investors should consider taking professional advice.

(03) 6235 9311 mcmf.com.au Head Office 10 Victoria Street Hobart TAS 7000

Photo: iStockphoto

*Average annualised rate for the year/quarter/week ending 3/11/20. Investors interested in investing in the Fund must complete an application form attached to the current Product Disclosure Statement that is available from Murdoch Clarke Mortgage Fund 10 Victoria Street, Hobart or at www.mcmf.com.au.

Murdoch Clarke Mortgage Fund ARSN 093 255 559 Responsible Entity: Murdoch Clarke Mortgage Management Limited ABN 84 115 958 560 Australian Financial Services Licence Number 296758 Australian Credit Licence Number 296758

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community

Changing gears

We’ve got your back at the

bowser WHILE THE many years we’ve spent lobbying for fairer

fuel prices have finally paid off, our mission to ensure Tasmanians aren’t being ripped off at the bowser will continue for some time.

Photo: iStockphoto

Story Alex Luttrell

ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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A

fter years of campaigning, we were pleased to see the Tasmanian Government implement a real-time fuel price reporting code of practice in September 2020. This scheme makes it compulsory for retailers to post their prices on a website and smart phone app.

The aim of this is to deter retailers from unfairly overcharging motorists for their fuel through greater transparency, accountability and competition.

Since the new scheme began, we’ve seen some notable reductions in the amount of money motorists are being overcharged for unleaded fuel, with some modest decreases for diesel. However, these have not been sustained, meaning we’re still finding people are being significantly ripped off at the bowser.

This is why we can’t take our foot off the pedal. In order to keep the pressure on both retailers and the government, we have refreshed our RACT Fuel Policy.

We want to see the government, alongside the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission, regularly monitor and enforce retailer compliance with the scheme, with penalties for failing to report accurate prices.

Funding for this scheme must also be provided in future State Budgets, in order to continue delivering the app and website.

Keep an eye out for the RACT fuel app, which will be launching soon to help motorists find the cheapest fuel prices near them.

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community

What we pay at the pump Tasmanians paid

$470,000

more than they should have for unleaded fuel compared to

$670,000 in

the seven weeks before the scheme began This is a notable saving for motorists of

$200,000 Tasmanians paid

$2.6 million

more than they should have for diesel. In the seven weeks since the scheme, that figure has increased to ABOVE

While customers have paid less for unleaded fuel since the real-time fuel price scheme began, diesel costs have only increased.

$2.9 million

This is a cost increase for motorists of

$300,000

*At the time of writing, it has been seven weeks since the scheme came into effect.

56-59 RACT_ChangingGears_Fuel_4 KB edit.indd 59

However, should retailers continue to charge unfairly high prices, the government should introduce fuel price capping legislation.

This option is something the government has said it will explore. While we certainly hope that real-time fuel pricing addresses the issue of high prices in our state, we agree that we need to remain vigilant to ensure we see real outcomes for motorists.

What is RACT doing?

Clearly, there's still a long way to go and we encourage motorists to use fuel price information to their advantage.

Keep an eye out for the RACT fuel app, which will be launching soon to help motorists find the cheapest fuel prices near them.

Rest assured, if we don’t see continued and sustained price reductions, we will take further action.

Read more about our advocacy programs at

ract.com.au/advocating-change

ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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13/11/20 9:57 am

Retire with us Wherever you are.

tasplan.com.au

Issued by Tasplan Pty Ltd. For further information in relation to whether to acquire or hold the products referred to, please read our guides at tasplan.com.au/pds.

The trustee of Tasplan Super (ABN 14 602 032 302) is Tasplan Pty Ltd (ABN 13 009 563 062). AFSL 235391. Š 2020 Tasplan Pty Ltd. All rights reserved.

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puzzles

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1 What was the name of Tasmania's former VFL football team?

2 Which actress starred in the film Crocodile Dundee?

21

23

26

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3 Which former Labor figure wrote the book From the Suburbs?

4 Which is the correct spelling: manoeuvre, manouevre, manuoevre?

27

5 In what major sport is a puck used?

28

29

Crossword

227 A chance 8 25 Mix socially Digital Ayers Rock (5) to take part in with (colloq.) those(4-2) of representation of 26 A single tortilla chip topped something with cheese and chilli (5) higher socialof a a person in a 8 Digital representation 27 Violation of what is regarded person in a game or forum (6) status (6) game or forum as sacred (9) 9 Unpleasant person or (6) 10 An added impetus (4-5) 28 Beverage brewed over a 23larrikin (colloq.) (6) Relating to camp fire (5,3) 11 Flower related to pansies (5) Anonymous (8) 15 Able to make atonement (9) 9 government Unpleasant 29 Flavour note in beer that 12 Eagle’s claw (5) 17 Person who actually uses a Criminal of revenue (6) is too youngor (6) larrikin person 13 A Russianact musical particular product (3,5) instrument (9) to setting fire (colloq.) (6) (8) Down 2518 Perceptively Bring together 14 Money saved for the future property (5) 20 Brief look or inspection (4-3) (4,3) 15 1Able for a common to make An assistant or deputy (8) 21 Divide in two parts (6) 16 Having little or no rain (4) 2atonement Anonymous (8) (9) Bushman's purpose (5) 22 Mix socially with those of 19 Gemstone consisting of 3 Criminal act of setting fire bundle of higher social status (6) silica (4) property (5) 17 toPerson who 23 Relating to government personal 21 Crazy or extremely silly 5 Bushman’s bundle of personal actually uses a revenue (6) (colloq.) (7) belongings (7) belongings (7) 25 Bring together for a 24 Producing young by 6particular A sense of disgust and means of (9) loathing (9) (3,5) common purpose (5) Sense ofeggs disgust product and loathing (9) 18 Perceptively (8) A chanceWant to to take find out how you did? Find the answers online at ract.com.au/puzzles 20 Brief look or part in inspection (4-3) something 21 Divide in two (colloq.) (4-2) parts (6)

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60-61 RACT_Puzzles2.indd 61

6 What year did Port Arthur become a prison settlement?

7 What was the first Japanese car to be produced in the US? 8 Who coached Australian swimmers Steve Holland and Tracey Wickham?

9 Which country is known as the Shaky Isles?

10 What sport did John Warren play?

WIN Put your knowledge to the test this issue and go into the draw to win one of two $50 Woolworths WISH Gift Cards. Please complete the online form to make a valid entry. T&Cs apply.

Good luck! ract.com.au/competitions

ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

61

12/11/20 5:36 pm

holiday hitlist

Rewards to help you save for your next getaway

SAVE

25% EXPLORE CRADLE Cradle Mountain Hotel Stay in the alpine forests of the central highlands at Cradle Mountain Hotel. This four-star hotel on the fringes of Cradle MountainLake St Clair National Park offers easy access to the pristine wilderness and walking trails – keep an eye out for native wildlife.

Save 25% on your next stay.

Book online and select our member rates at the checkout.* See cradlemountainhotel.com.au

HAVE A CITY VACAY Hotel Verge

Save 10% on your accommodation at Hotel Verge.*

SAVE

25%

LIVE THE VILLAGE LIFE STRAHAN VILLAGE

Tassie’s west coast feels like a whole other world, with ancient rainforests, rich convict history and the pristine Gordon River waiting to be discovered. The waterfront town of Strahan Village is the ideal base for your adventure on the wild west coast.

Save 25% on your accommodation when visiting Strahan Village.

Book online and select our member rates at the checkout.* Discover more at strahanvillage.com.au

Visit ract.com.au/hotel-verge for more information.

Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Scott Sporleder, Matador; RACT Destinations; iStockphotock.

Hotel Verge is Launceston’s newest accommodation, right in the heart of the city. Tasmanian-owned-andoperated, it offers spacious hotel rooms with an industrial luxe feel.

Relax and unwind in style and save as an RACT member on your next city staycation at Hotel Verge.

*Terms and conditions apply. Please see ract.com.au/member-rewards for more details.

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everyday rewards Save with these day-to-day rewards

SAVE

20% SAY IT WITH FLOWERS Petals

SAVE YOUR EYES IN STYLE SPECSAVERS

Protect your eyes from strain and the summer sunshine with a new pair of glasses from Specsavers.

Save 25% on any single pair of glasses from the $149 range or above (including lens extras), save 20% on all Ultraclear, Superclean, Driving Tint, Sun and UV lenses and $30 off contact lenses online when you spend $119 or more (including free delivery). Show your membership in store or create a voucher on the Specsavers website for use online or in store.*

Brighten someone’s day (or your own) with a delivery from Petals, one of Australia’s premier flower delivery services.

Save 20% on your online flower order. Redeem by entering your membership card number before checkout on the Petals website.* Visit ract.com.au/petals

Discover more at ract.com.au/specsavers

PAY

$9.99 REBOOT YOUR FITNESS Zap Fitness 24/7 Get a jump on your New Year’s resolutions at Zap Fitness 24/7 and zap in any time with your personal key to enjoy clean, convenient, gyms with all the latest equipment.

Photos: Tourism Tasmania / Scott Sporleder, Matador; RACT Destinations; iStockphotock.

Pay just $9.99 per week for an everyday 12 month membership and skip the start-up fee of $69.* See ract.com.au/zap-fitness

GIVE YOUR CAR A HEALTH CHECK RACT Vehicle Inspections Drive your car into the new year with complete confidence.

Whether you’re buying a car or your warranty is about to expire, our qualified mechanics will tell you everything you need to know.

Save at least 10% on your next full mechanical inspection. Show your membership card when you drop your vehicle off.* Find out more at

FROM

ract.com.au/vehicle-inspections

SAVE

6c p/l SAVE AT THE BOWSER United Petrol Top up at participating United stations around Tasmania and drive away happy. Check online for a full list of participating stations.

Receive 6 cents off per litre.

Show your RACT membership card when paying for your fuel.* See ract.com.au/united

10%

Visit ract.com.au/member-rewards for more

Ms Jane Person Card number

1234 5678 9123 4567 Member number

01234567 Member since

2018

63

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Truly Tasmania Pure air, beautiful scenery and a laid-back feel – is there anything better than life in Tasmania?

Make the most of it with these Tasmanian experiences, services and products.

PURE TASSIE Pure Tassie mineral water comes from the South West, part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. It flows from high in the mountains of the Mt Field National Park, down through limestone caves, to resurface in Mountain Springs. puretassie.com.au

FUN TASSIE TOURS Fun Tassie Tours are Tasmania’s leading small-group tour specialists.

Travel in comfort with a fivestar reviewed operator offering comprehensive itineraries, fantastic new vehicles and experienced local guides. Journey fast enough to visit Tasmania’s most stunning locations yet slow enough to enjoy the scenery. funtassietours.com

Take in the view from Tasmania’s most epic window seat – see the sheer dolerite cliffs of the Three Capes, Port Arthur Historic Site, Tasman Island and a blanket of sea stretching to Antarctica. Use code ‘RACT’ when booking for $50 off per person on flights out of Port Arthur. osbornehelitours.com

64

VISIT TASMANIA'S NORTH

IN THE HANGING GARDEN

For a fresh take on a city break, head to Launceston. Tasmania’s second-largest hub is home to community farmer’s markets, natural wonders and heritage architecture. The city's gourmet restaurants and bars punch above their weight, and with the world-class Tamar Valley Wine Route on its doorstep, the journey has only just begun. visitnortherntasmania.com.au

Encompassing nearly an entire Hobart city block, In The Hanging Garden is a live music and cultural precinct featuring an extensive tiered beer garden with kitchens and bars. Enjoy delicious food from the local kitchens, Bruny Island Cheese Co. and Oryza, and drinks from all over our island.

Open Wednesday to Sunday, 11am-late. inthehanginggarden.com.au

Images courtesy the advertiser: Visit North Tasmania, Jarrad Seng

Osborne Heli Tours

JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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advertorial

Bridestowe Lavender Estate See Bridestowe Lavender Estate in bloom, with paid workshops and exclusive tours on offer over the summer months. Try our signature lavender ice cream or a lavender scone and take a leisurely stroll around the 250-acre estate. Open 9am to 5pm (December-January), 7 days. Closed Christmas Day. Found at 296 Gillespies Road, Nabowla TAS 7260. bridestowelavender.com.au

DEVIL'S CORNER A destination for those seeking great wine, local produce and good adventure, Devil’s Corner is situated along Tasmania's scenic east coast.

The cellar door is open seven days a week, with wood-fired pizzas and local seafood on offer Wednesday to Sunday between 11am and 3pm. devilscorner.com.au

ST MICHAEL'S COLLEGIATE SCHOOL Collegiate is a school for every girl, offering learning opportunities from ELC through to Year 12. Boarding options are available in our historic home away from home.

Take a virtual tour online at collegiate.tas.edu.au

Images courtesy the advertiser: Visit North Tasmania, Jarrad Seng

POOLEY WINES Spend your summer at Pooley Wines in Richmond. Indulge in a tasting of handcrafted, awardwinning wines along with a selection of local cheeses and charcuterie at the cellar door, with artisan wood-fired pizza on weekends too. Mention 'RACT Journeys' to receive a complimentary tasting on your next visit. pooleywines.com.au

NORTH LILYDALE Discover a place where mountain air is turned into wine. High in the foothills of Mt. Arthur, fed by the waters of the Pipers River system, Susan and Harry welcome you to The Ridge North Lilydale; an award-winning vineyard off the beaten path making award-winning wine. Seen here (right) captured in the summer light by Philip Bell. theridgenorthlilydale.com

TASMANIAN MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY The Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (TMAG) is a unique cultural tourism attraction, embracing the diverse treasures of art, history and science.

Just a short walk from anywhere on Hobart’s waterfront, the site includes some of the most significant heritage buildings in the nation. tmag.tas.gov.au ract.com.au // JOURNEYS

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rear view.

PICTURED (clockwise from above) // Colin Partridge caught the sunrise at Kingston Beach; Waterfall Bay as seen by Wayne Painter; @dawntodusk_tasmania snapped @hotairballoontasmania coming in to land over Bishopsbourne; and Diana Nickson made a furry friend on Maria Island.

Want to see your photo here? Send your shots of our beautiful island to journeys@ract.com.au or tag us with @ractofficial and #yourjourneys on lnstagram, Facebook or Twitter.

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JOURNEYS // DEC 2020 / JAN 2021

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More rewards.

More often.

Our member rewards program includes more than 150 statewide and national partners. That means you can save every day across every area of your life.

6 cents per litre discount on fuel

25% off accommodation

at participating United Petroleum sites all year round.

at Strahan Village, Freycinet Lodge, Cradle Mountain Hotel and RACV Hobart Hotel.

6% off market usage charges

Save on movie tickets

when you pay on time with 1st Energy.

across the state.

Get up to $300 cashback

Get $30 off RACT Batteries

when you take out Hospital & Extras cover with HCF.

when you buy from us.

Take a look at where you can save ract.com.au/member-rewards Terms and conditions apply. Product prices and savings correct at the time of printing.

For more information visit ract.com.au/member-rewards.

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Journeys 66-67 RACT_Rearview_2.indd Magazine_Liffey Falls_275x200_Dec/Jan 68 edition_v1.indd 1

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