FASHION DESIGN FOR FUNCTION
BY RAEEHA EEJAZ
WHAT IS FASHION DESIGN FOR FUNCTION?
Fashion Design for Function is a course that teaches how to design and develop garments through creative means of researching. As well as educating the students detailing for functionality and the use of fabric for the right purpose and fit and implementing it later into production. The design process and the skills taught along the way trains the students the practicality and understanding of garment construction that goes into fashion designing.
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AIMS •
Utilizing the properties of a performance fabric to its best capability.
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Learning how to do commercial designing for ca sual sportswear collection.
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Researching the mainstream brands for sports wear, active and casual wear.
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Improve on my observational and technical draw ings as compared to last semester.
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Understanding the sole purpose of functional de tails.
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To create a casual sport wear capsule collection, I began researching brands; Yohji Yamamoto, Lacoste and Elisabeth & James,to learn how they in cooperate functionality into their designs. It was very intriguing because these designers showed different ways of making a dress practical yet staying true to their design aesthetic. I noticed how an unusually designed pocket can serve the same purpose no matter where it is placed. To learn whether the fabric is suitable for a functional detail to be produced needs to be taken under consideration. The use of functional details as decoration is a new technique. For example the buttonhole loops as a neckline.
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The use of color palette can make a difference because it is importance to realize whether these colors are acceptable for the targeted customer.
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After researching, it helped me decide the inspiration I required for my capsule collection as well as choose my target market. Along with that, it directed me in the path I preferred to go in terms of color and print while keeping casual sportswear in mind. This inspiration mood board will further help me develop observational drawings that will guide me in finalizing my print and color palette.
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After creating some observational drawings, I was able to finalize my inspiration board with a more clear vision of how I wanted my capsule collection to be presented.
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I discovered performance based fabrics that can be experimented with overlaying and used side by side as well. I learned different properties of sporty fabrics and casual fabrics and the amount of difference it can make when used separately or together. For instance, the lightness of organza mixed with the stretch ability of jersey.
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Moreover, with the help of observational drawings, I was also able to weigh my options for color combinations with are more acceptable for the target market. Since, color can change the mood of the whole collection, it was important for me to select colors that can blend well together. So I added subtle as well as bold colors.
WHITE
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While developing the prints, it is important to keep the inspiration in mind. In this case, I wanted to incorporate Japanese words as well as the check lines in such a way that it looks modern and well connected with inspiration. Creating prints in a very stimulating exercise that challenges me to make different patterns but inspired by one thing. All my prints were originated through my observational drawings and images used in my inspiration board.
After building color combinations from my palette, it helped me decide which colors blend well together in order for me to use them in prints. Later one, I finalized my final print that will be used for my capsule collection. I later learned how to integrate my pattern in my outfit sets by experimenting with different scaling. In my opinion this step was certainly the most vital in designing the final capsule collection.
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SHIRT DRESS ILLUSTRATIONS
Since, we were to stitch a shirt dress in the end, it being a part of the final 4 sets, we began designing many dresses. A collar being an integral part of the dress, it was important to use sporty cuts and details while balancing the causal collar. Other than that, the importance of functional details was to be understood. I learnt new functional details during the process such as a placket, different types of collars and pockets. But the most interesting part of it was to use functional details in unusual places of the dress whether it was functional or decorative; for example an elastic drawstring underneath the collar. Along the way, I learned how to do commercial designing with dresses, tops, jackets and trousers that made me understand my customer better. i did face some problem with the proportion of hand-drawn trousers which i later illustrated again.
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I selected my final shirt dress by combining elements of three shirt dresses. I further developed the design by making minor changes in order to weigh my options. This procedure is very helpful and useful in adding extra details or removing unnecessary parts that could either under or overdesign one’s garment. In my case I added a drawstring that came out of the stand collar as decorative detail which completed the whole look. This development method helped me understand the significance of dress proportion that could be problematic later if not dealt with in this step.
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DEVELOPMENT SETS Making development sets was one of the most intriguing parts, because it puts your styling abilities to test. We had to pair shirt dresses, tops, jackets and trousers for a commercial collection. Each set was placed in such a way that each item can be crossed over with the next outfit; for example, tights under a skirt can be paired with a dress in the same set.
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The key element to learn here was if this cross over pairing can be done, it means the collection is successful and can be sold. This is the deciding factor on whether the customer will buy one item of your collection or the entire collection. Hence, this was a new learning for me.
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PRODUCTION OF SHIRT DRESS
During the production period, I did face some difficulties with the fabric. I was using two types of jersey which was hard to stitch together due to different weight and texture. While attaching my collar to the neck, the fabric stretched from one side. And since I had an open zip in the center front, I had to stitch again as well adjust the front to the size of the zip. Other than that, I was layering mesh on top of plain jersey as well. I had trouble stitching the two fabrics since it decreased the size of my collar while layering of fabric. But once I found the solution to it, the stitching process for my patch pockets went smoothly. Moreover, since I had a zip in the center of my hood, I was difficult for me to visualize it during production. But once I made the mistakes, it helped me comprehend how the hood will look in the end.
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I learnt that it’s alright to make mistakes because only then one can learn and absorb. Lastly, I do know better now which fabrics don’t go well together and how in future I should try stitching the swatches first before deciding on a fabric.
FINAL SHIRT DRESS
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