DAVID HOCKNEY

P by Doris Lessing

P is for pumpkin, because I making pumpkin soup, one of the joys of autumn. You need a good pumpkin that has had real sun, for the taste. You can’t use English pumpkins if we have had a bad summer, most years they are all right. You make a purée of it. Then you sweat chopped onions in a little butter. You can use a good chicken stock, but some people think a stock deadens the subtle and earthy pumpkin taste, and prefer water. A little cinnamon, just enough ginger to tang it, and then, when you serve it, a dollop of sour cream on top, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley.

P is for roast pumpkin because it is a wonderful accompaniment to roast meats, or as the basis of a vegetarian meal, since it is rich and filling. It should be cut in generous slices, and each slice well scored and sprinkled with butter, salt, a little sugar, cinnamon, a dusting of coriander and cardamom. This is put into a medium oven till the surfaces begin to caramelize.

P is for pumpkin the way the French do it, very finely diced and then seasoned with parsley and finely chopped garlic – quite a lot of garlic – then dredged with flour until each little cube is coated. This is spread in a gratin earthenware dish that has been well wiped with olive oil, and the dish goes into a quiet oven, above 350°F for 2½ hours. It should then have a dark brown crust, but underneath the pumpkin is making a rich purée.

P is for pumpkin fritters – but we all know how to make fritters. They are delicious, tangy and seductive. And, of course, very fattening.