Against the Grain

How la Barbecue and Chef LeAnn Mueller Stood Out Against the Norm

WRITTEN BY: CARY WONG

Astrong muscular man chopping wood. Maybe a heavily tattooed and mustached pitmaster tending the fire. We have certain stereotypes attached to those who own and work at a barbecue restaurant. The first image that comes to mind would surely not be a woman with short-cropped blonde hair. LeAnn Mueller, though, is exactly that. Along with her wife and partner, Chef Ali Clem, she runs la Barbecue, one of the best barbecue joints in the United States.

Eventually, though, barbecue came back to her.

“You want an end piece that has the seasoning on it, call it that, but don’t say burnt tips. It drives me nuts. Do you want lean? Or do you want moist? It’s just that simple. You know, don’t try to use all this jargon.”

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