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NO G OAT S , NO GL ORY /p g. 0 4 • M A S T ER C L A S S : Ho w To Subpr i m a l T he D - R u mp /p g. 0 8 • ON T H E I N T ER N AT ION A L S TAGE : D i n i ng W it h T he D e v i l /p g.14 • FA R M I NG F OR T H E F U T U R E AT F O S SI L D OW NS /p g.18 G O F OR G OAT /p g. 2 0 • ON T H E M EN U /p g. 2 3 • F EEDI NG YOU R I N N ER CAV EM A N /p g. 3 0 • ON E C U T WON DER S /p g. 32 • BI T E SI Z ED /p g.4 0 MOM EN TA RY – 8:45PM W it h S or en L a s c el le s /p g.42
M E A T
&
L I V E S T O C K
A U S T R A L I A
— C R E D I T S
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A DDR E S S Level 1, 165 Walker Street, North Sydney, NS W 2059 PHON E 02 9463 9308
• EM A I L chefspecial@mla.com.au
• EDI T OR Connaugh Sheehan (csheehan@mla.com.au) • DE SIGN M ASH (www.mashdesign.com.au) PR I N T I NG Nationwide Advertising (www.npadvert.com.au) • PA PER S T OCK Nordset by Raleigh Paper F OOD S T Y LI S T Simon Bajada • F OOD PHO T OGR A PH ER John Laurie I LLUS T R AT ION Andy McIntyre • M L A F OODSERV ICE CON TAC T S : W EB SI T E www.mla.com.au
SU B SCR I BE 1800 550 018 (chefspecial@mla.com.au)
F OODSERV ICE & R E TA I L M A R K E T I NG M A N AGER Roger Bond (rbond@mla.com.au)
NSW/AC T Doug Piper (dpiper @mla.com.au) S A Bill Lindsay (blindsay@mla.com.au)
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• QLD/ N T Glen Burke (gburke@mla.com.au)
V IC/ TA S Gerard Doherty (gdoherty@mla.com.au)
WA Rafael Ramirez (rramirez @mla.com.au) The paper stock is env ir onment a lly r esponsible paper s pr oduced f r om PEF C cer t if ied pulp fr om well ma na g ed for est s a nd is Element a l Chlor ine Fr ee (ECF). This pub lic ation is pub lis hed by M e at & Li v es tock Aus tr a li a Li m ited ABN 39 0 81 678 364 (M LA). C a r e is ta k en to ensur e the accur ac y of infor m ation in the pub lic ation; how e v er, M LA c a nnot accep t r es pons ib ilit y for the accur acy or com ple tenes s of the infor m ation or opinions conta ined in the pub lic ation. R e a ders s hould r ely on their ow n enquir ies in m a k ing dec is ions concer ning their inter es t s. R eproduc tion in w hole or in pa r t of this pub lic ation is prohib ited w ithout the pr ior w r itten cons ent of M LA . ©2010.
Published November 2010 ISSN 1444 -223X
c o n te n ts NO G OAT S , NO GL ORY /pg. 0 4 M A S T ER C L A S S :
Ho w To Subp rim al T h e D -Rump /pg. 0 8 ON T H E I N T ER N AT ION A L S TAGE : D ining W ith T h e D e vil /pg.14 FA R M I NG F OR T H E F U T U R E AT F O S SI L D OW NS /pg.18 G O F OR G OAT /pg. 20 ON T H E M EN U /pg. 23 F EEDI NG YOU R I N N ER CAV EM A N /pg.30 ON E C U T WON DER S /pg.32 BI T E SI Z ED /pg.4 0 MOM EN TA RY –
8:45 PM W ith Sore n L ascelles /pg.42
— E D I T O R ' S NO T E
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Dear Chef’s Special Reader, Such exciting news for red meat: Meat Standards Australia wins an Oscar for Australian science! The science behind the world’s leading meat grading system was recognised in August at Australia’s prestigious science awards — the Australian Museum Eureka Awards. The Eureka awards recognise excellence in the fields of scientific research, innovation and science leadership. The MSA research pipped at the post programs such as the Nanopatch Influenza Vaccination team and the iCinema Centre for Interactive Cinema Research. MSA, the world’s first comprehensive paddock-to-plate meat grading system, has over 16,000 Australian beef and sheep producers now accredited, supplying over 1.25 million MSA graded cattle and half a million lambs this year. Eating quality of red meat is of paramount importance to your customers. They want tenderness, juiciness and an incredible flavour, all of which are guaranteed with MSA graded product. Win your customer’s confidence and trust by using MSA graded product in your restaurant. Read on my Fleischmeister in the making, Connaugh
– 03 –
— F E A T U R E 0.1 —
no goats no glory In an industr y where rangeland goat meat reig ns supreme, one company has emerged applying the same principles of sound and sustainable practices found in the beef and lamb industries, in order to g uarantee the qualit y and consistency, without compromise of their goat meat. Seven Hills Tallarook sits atop seven hills near the picturesque Tallarook State Forest, Victoria, one hour’s drive from Melbourne CBD. Seven Hills Tallarook operates as a commercial goat meat farm running over 2,000 Australian Boer goats and supply goat meat and smallgoods to prominent chefs and high end restaurants, gourmet delicatessens and qualit y butchers across Australia as well as the live expor t market. They strive to maintain control over their entire production system — from paddock to plate. The producers at Seven Hills Tallarook welcomed Chef ’s Special onto their proper t y to discuss all thing s goat — from how they feed their goats to how they supply their customers.
— F E A T U R E 0.1 —
W H AT IS THE DIFFER ENCE BET W EEN ‘GROW ING’ A L A MB A ND a GOAT? From a producer point of view a lot of what we’re doing here is experimental. There has been a lot of time and effort spent in the sheep industry in respect to very specific feeding and breeding regimes, and the finishing of meat animals, however because farmed goat is an emerging meat, there is still a lot of research to be done. To breed a good meat goat you need a balance of the right breed, nutritious food available all year round and good husbandry and management practices. We raise Australian Boer goats here including the full blood South African Boer, Kalahari Reds and Boer infused breeding does. Nutritious food is the most important issue for us. As part of our Seven Hills mission we endeavour to have a continuous supply of fresh goat meat for our chefs so we breed every week. There is a high demand for feed just prior to kidding as well as during lactation, so it is imperative that we have a strong feeding regime.
Goats have a reputation for eating everything, including the washing off the line, but this is not actually the case. Goats have selective eating habits which enable them to eat a wider range of plants than either sheep or cattle. They are browsing animals, not grazing animals so their diet include trees and bushes, as well as pastures. Irrespective of the age of the animal or breeding status � either pregnant does or working bucks � they all have basic requirements for water, energy, protein, vitamins, minerals and roughage. It is only the quantities which will change. Ideally goats do best when given feed ad lib but that process may not be possible for most producers. Goats need a mixture of fresh green grass and roughage in the form of hay. Our goats are fed a rich diet of pellet which is readily available to them, plus three times a week our goats get our own home grown delicately sprouted fodder, grown in our own fodder factory.
– 05 –
— F E A T U R E 0.1 —
W hat made you decide to grow your own fodder ? Basically the drought. When we first came to this property the dams were empty and it was just dust. There was no green feed at all. Think of a lactating doe feeding her three kids... that’s a lot of food she needs to produce enough milk. Our fodder factory was a god-send during the drought. We grow 1.6 tonnes of feed per day in long cool rooms keeping the temperature at 23˚C. It takes 700gm barley grain to get 7– 8kg fresh fodder. We think the goats prefer this green fodder to the barley grains. You should see them come running when they spy us with armfuls of the stuff. Although there isn’t any data on the nutritional benefits of this type of feed, we believe the results are seen in the meat. Rangeland goats carry less condition due to the harsh environment they live in, having to travel large distances for food and water. These additional stresses result in variable meat quality that is more suited to the export commodity markets.
– 06 –
— F E A T U R E 0.1 —
How do you maintain the control when your goats go off for processing? The last day for ordering is Sunday at 5pm. A chef rings and tells us exactly what they want with their goat meat. Not by weight of the animal but by what they want to do with the cuts or dishes they’d like to achieve and we hand pick every animal for every restaurant. There is so much variation with the animals themselves that we must do it this way to resolve any concern in the foodservice industry about consistancy of the product. We could get a three year old who weighs the same as an 18 month old so it is no good going by weight � they grow so differently. We’ve spent months and months re-educating our clients on the right way to order their goats from us. The goats are weighed accordingly and marked a different colour depending on what the restaurant requires. For example blue refers to a certain client we have and for the dishes he wants on his menu he needs a 15kg carcass so we select goats that fit his exact criteria. The goats go off to the abattoir as a rainbow of different restaurant orders, where they are processed and dispatched to their restaurants. This is the only way we can maintain the integrity of our promise to chefs; the goat meat is going to be the same product in quality and standard every time. ø
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— M A S T E R C L A S S —
How to sUBPR IMAL the d-rump ( H. A .M n O . 2090 )
– 08 –
— M A S T E R C L A S S —
1
2
Remove the rump undercut muscle. Clearly identify the undercut muscle laying on top the underside of the rump. Locate the seam — gently pulling the meat and following all the way through to remove the muscle. This can be used for trim or in your braise, pies or curry dishes.
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4 5 3
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To separate the rump cap, known as the Picanha in South American countries, keep the rump fat side down. You can see the cap sitting at the bottom of the rump, underneath the centre cut and eye of rump. Gently pull back on the centre muscles and use the weight of the meat to follow the seam all the way through, gently pulling as your knife cuts through the seam. – 09 –
— M A S T E R C L A S S —
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Slice off the section of the cap that is all fat. Remove the silver trim form underneath and any other excess fat. By holding the knife at a slight angle upwards you are less likely to pierce any meat while removing trim. Follow the line of the meat to remove the excess top fat. See page 24 for a great summer Picanha recipe. 6
8
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— M A S T E R C L A S S —
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Tip*** When slicing steaks from your rump cap make sure you’re cutting against the grain. That is from the tip of the triangle down. Trim off any excess fat.
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— M A S T E R C L A S S —
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To separate the centre cut from the eye of rump, locate the seam through the middle of the two muscles. Gently cut through the meat using the seam of sinew as a guide. Trim.
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— M A S T E R C L A S S —
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There you have an eye of rump. For eye of rump recipes see One Cut Wonders on page 32.
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21 22
Remove the sinew from the centre cut and trim off any excess fat. This is an excellent cut to use for Schnitzel and Scaloppini. – 13 –
22
ON T H E I N T E R N A T I ON A L S T A G E
Dining w ith the Devil A conversation in print with two Michelin starred Chef, Alvin Leung, known across the globe as the Demon Chef.
A lv in L eung is a t r uly unique chef. Bor n in L ondon, r a ised in Tor onto, he ha s t r avelled extensively since childhood, ma k ing him well-ver sed in dif ferent cult ures a nd cuisines . Cont r a r y to his r ock a nd r oll imag e , A lv in's professiona l t r a ining a s a n eng ineer ma nifest s in ever y dish he present s . A t r ue culina r y g enius , A lv in is recog nised by his peer s a s one of t he most creat ive chefs in A sia , a nd he is reg ula rly inv ited over sea s to g ive ma ster cla sses a nd demonst r at ions a long side celebr ated chefs , such a s Fer r a n Adr ia , Rene Redzepi a nd Ma r t in Ber a sateg ui. A lv in's X-t reme Chinese cuisine ha s broken dow n long held preconcept ions of what Chinese food should look and t a ste like a nd he ha s sing le -ha ndedly created new t a ste sensat ions which g ive diner s a unique exper ience ever y t ime t hey v isit Bo Innovat ion in Hong -Kong.
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— ON T H E I N T E R N A T I ON A L S T A G E
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W hat is meant exactly when you talk about X-treme cuisine and deconstructed dining? Well it’s taking a classical dish and rearranging it. You would basically try to maintain the principle taste, the DNA of the dish, the ingredients and the smell, except you’re changing it somehow. You could start by changing the textures or change the temperature. Take for example the famous bacon & egg ice cream from the Fat Duck. The chef is basically taking the dish from a hot dish to a cold dish; from a breakfast dish to a dessert dish, so this is what I mean by deconstruction. What I do is I take a really traditional Chinese dish for example xiao long bao � the dumpling � and I warp your sense of what it should be. What I’m serving you is a pork dumpling but it’s only your taste and smell which knows it’s xiao long bao. Your eyes see a delicate yellow sphere on a plate and you feel a liquid in your mouth as you bite into it. I’m changing the texture but the flavour is retained. So at the end of the day when you deconstruct something it must still somewhat resemble the original dish, the DNA must still be there, but you get a different experience. With the utmost precision, I substitute ingredients and methods of cooking until perfection is achieved. A single dish can take months for me to perfect.
H ave you studied Molecular Gastronomy at all? I haven't actually studied it, I’ve just read a lot about it in books and I’ve eaten in all the very very popular molecular restaurants across the world. I’m self taught, I just messed around with it in my kitchen but being an engineer it is actually planned messing around. I just don’t go into the kitchen and start putting everything together. To do what I do and to get more dishes out you have to be able to draw inspiration from more than the obvious source. Go to restaurants and check out what others are doing but keep your eyes and mind open to all things, that means looking at things differently � don’t go to sleep in the car, you’ll miss something that could inspire a dish.
R ed meat can be a little CLUNK Y and brown when cooked. Considering your food is so angelic and beautiful on the plate , how do you approach the brown? If the meat is very good, especially if it's beef, the important thing is to let it be the star. Australian Wagyu is a beautiful piece of meat, it's well marbled, has lots of flavour and I think it’s best to let it find itself. Keep it quite natural. Expensive ingredients are very beautiful things and you don’t need to disguise them.
– 15 –
— ON T H E I N T E R N A T I ON A L S T A G E
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How do you source your red meat? W hy do you specifically use Australian red meat? Very simple � it just tastes good. It’s a matter of the environment they’re raised in. If the beef has been raised in a comfortable environment and are relaxed and well taken care of then they’ll be quite tender when they’re processed. I really think about that when I’m sourcing meat — Australian meat is incredibly well raised; it’s top quality.
Do you have an Australian chef who you find very exciting? I find Mark Best very exciting. I love his food and he’s a great guy. We get on really well, we met in Beijing. I think there are a lot of Australian chefs who are quite good. They’re very lucky they have great products and an open audience. There are many cultures in Australia so it makes the cuisine dynamic. Deep down you have a very nice food culture here.
The Demon Chef- where did that come from? I came from an Anglican family, I wear a lot of crosses and originally critics hailed me “the god of chefs”. Because of my faith I can’t be that, it’s almost blasphemous, so I was christened the Demon Chef. Now I can still go to heaven � in Coach... but I’ll still get in.
Can you explain your recipe to us? In this dish I like to keep the Wagyu clean and simple so I’ve simply sous vide it gently and let it speak for itself. The sauce for the noodles is a little bit of fun. I’ve used the aussie Umami−Vegemite. It has to be one of Australia’s most famous gastronomic innovations so it's only fitting that I use it here. I think the flavours of the delicate Wagyu, the salty-richness of the noodles and the earthy fragrance of the truffles all balance really well. ø
– 16 –
— ON T H E I N T E R N A T I ON A L S T A G E
—
TH E DEMON CH EF 'S
Wagyu sTRIPLOIN W ITH Vegemite Cheung FuN : U S E W a g y u s T R I P l o i n , M a r b l e s c o re 8+ :
CHEUNG FUN (RICE NOODLES)*
Vegemite Soy Sauce
Black Truffle Puree
220g Rice flour 55g Corn starch 1L Water 20g Black truffle
60ml Light soy sauce 60ml Dark soy sauce 40ml Vegemite 120ml Water 20g Sugar
100g Black truffle 35ml Black truffle oil 30ml Water
Sugar Salt
Sift dry ingredients together. Slowly add the water, mixing as you add. Lastly add the Black truffle and mix thoroughly. Set batter aside for at least an hour. Prepare your steamer. Grease a swiss roll pan or any aluminium tray with oil and pour the batter directly on the pan and steam for 5 minutes. Rest after steaming.* Combine all ingredients for the Vegemite Soy Sauce and coat rice noodles. Puree all truffle ingredients together until smooth. Sous vide Wagyu striploin to medium rare and serve with the noodles and black truffle puree.
*If you don’t have a rice sheet cooker, substitute with store bought rice noodles.
– 17 –
— F E A T U R E 0.2 —
Farming for the futur e at Fossil Dow ns
As owners of one of the largest private cattle stations in Australia, John and Annette Henwood have every reason to be proud of their environmental credentials.
On their 400,000 hectare property – half an hour east of Fitzroy Crossing in the West Kimberley region of Western Australia – they have witnessed devastating floods and drought; despite this, regenerating native plant species, erosion control and fencing off rivers continue to be a priority. By focusing on soil health and native plant regrowth, the Henwood’s are caring for their environment and producing healthier, more productive cattle.
Twenty years after John and Annette took over the farm, Fossil Downs experienced seven major floods in 10 years, with the worst seeing 5000 cattle lost, large tracts of fencing destroyed and the homestead extensively damaged.
It's not unusual to see John and Annette Henwood crouched over one of their many species of native plants harvesting seeds so they can later sow these seeds out by hand and increase the number of trees on their station. This is the kind of tenacity and commitment you expect from the 4th generation producers − Annette's family settled the region by walking approximately 700 cattle from Goulburn in NSW to the top of Western Australia in the 1880's.
Dealing with ongoing floods forced John & Annette into a system of shifting cattle regularly to prevent stock losses. As a result, John identified the benefits that rotating stock had on regeneration of the land and the flow-on benefits for animal health. He found that by resting each paddock, the number of native species was increased and weeds were reduced. John was concerned about the long-term loss of certain native plant types on Fossil Downs after hearing stories from an old drover in the area.
– 18 –
— F E A T U R E 0.2 —
Their land management improved dramatically, and the cattle, in turn, grew more quickly, increasing overall productivity and sustainability on Fossil Downs. Protecting and propagating vegetation, legumes, pastures and native plants is a high priority for Annette and John. "So far we've focussed on vegetation, legume, pasture and native plants, but we want to start on grasses next," said John. Native regrowth has helped minimise erosion by reducing water run-off. Also with better vegetation, ground cover and healthier soils, more moisture and carbon is stored within the soil. "This not only helps us improve the environment on our property, but it As an experiment, John started collecting has helped us boost our productivity seeds from the native plants and spread and sustainability of our business," them at specific sites across the property. said John. "In the beginning we had little success. In some cases, seeds would germinate and then disappear. However, in the paddocks where we were regularly moving the cattle, we noticed that the native plants were beginning to thrive and spread," John says.
Today, the Henwoods manage approximately 15,000 Droughtmaster cattle − a breed developed for Australia's unique northern climate. The cattle are raised in an open, natural environment, with the young steers exported live to Indonesia, and the young breeder cattle sold privately.
"With the help of our agronomist, Bob MacDonald, we found that if we rested paddocks between cattle grazing, we could regenerate the native vegetation. "Collecting and spreading these seeds, combined with the regular rotation of cattle to let the paddocks rest meant the seeds were able to seed once or sometimes twice a year."
"Farmers not only provide safe, good quality food, we also provide the care and custody of remote vast areas of land. Annette and I deeply care and respect our land and our livestock", says John. "We are the caretakers at Fossil Downs, a property that has been in our family for generations − and what's good for our property is good for the environment." ø
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— F E A T U R E 0.3 —
go for goat The production of goat meat in Australia occurs in t wo ways. The term ‘rangeland’ describes goats that are farmed on land where the vegetation is predominantly g rasses, and native shrub suitable for g razing. R angeland goats have evolved in Australia to become a unique resource and are highly sought after by goat meat markets around the world. Australia is the world's largest expor ter of goat meat. Essentially these goats are ‘free range’, and supply chain development over recent years have helped to improve the qualit y and constancy of meat derived from rangeland goats. Boer goats or Boer crosses are raised for meat production. The introduction of the Boer goat genetics into Australia several years ago has assisted in the production of exceptionally high qualit y meat and good g row th rates. Over the last decade goat meat producers have embarked on a major prog ram of g row th and flock improvement. A lthough availabilit y and consistency of goat meat has increased over the last few years, whole carcases or six-way splits are still the most commonly available cuts. The description of goat meat is different to lamb: capretto is a young, sweet succulent meat with a carcase weight of 6–12kg and chevon is a goat aged 6–8 months with a stronger flavoured meat. A ll goat meat is quite lean and should be carefully prepared using high moisture cook ing methods. Selecting the appropriate cut-to-cook methods is essential for a good outcome.
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— F E A T U R E 0.3 —
C abrito Asad o (Baby goat marinated in dry sherry, garlic and thyme) : SE RV E S 4 : Cooking Tim e Prep tim e 10 minutes, cook 3 hours (plus resting)
750 ml (3 cups) d r y sher r y 150 ml e x t r a - v i r g i n ol i v e oi l 3 tbsp t h y me le a v e s 8 b a y le a v e s , g ent l y c r u she d 2 c a r r ot s , c hopp e d 2 on ion s , c hopp e d 1 he a d g a r l ic , p e ele d a nd c r u she d 1 (about 1.5 kg) g o a t le g
T o s e rv e : Garden salad 1
Combine sherry, olive oil, thyme, bay leaves, carrot and onion in a large dish. Rub the crushed garlic onto the goat and put the remains of the garlic in the marinade. Baste the goat with the marinade several times, then cover and refrigerate overnight. 2
Preheat oven to 180°C. Scatter marinated vegetables over base of a large roasting pan, then lay goat on top, season with sea salt, rubbing salt vigorously into the skin. Roast for 1 hour, then turn and cook for another 1-2 hours or until meat pulls away from the bone. Remove from oven, rest for 10 minutes, carve and serve with pan juices and a fresh garden salad.
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O N
T H E
M EN U
Picanha with Relish The rump cap is an underutilised cut of beef that is famous for its tenderness and flavour. In Brazil this cut is idolised and is called the Picanha. Try out this recipe if you are looking for inspiration, it makes for an innovative new dish for lunch or lighter meals on your summer menu.
•
1 x 1kg rump cap roast
(for heavier rump cap, speak to your wholesaler about getting it off a larger animal)
5 – 6 cloves garlic or 3 – 4 tbsp of prepared crushed garlic 1/2 – 2/3 cups of coarse salt 1/4 cup of olive oil —
Trim excess fat from the meat. Mix salt and garlic together to make a paste, rub all over the meat. Add a little olive oil if the paste won't stick. Marinate the cap for several hours, turning it over once an hour or so. Liquid should come out of the meat. Scrape most of the mixture off the roast, especially the large chunks of salt. Rub the meat with a little olive oil, and a little more garlic. Grill over very high heat. Turn once and cook to rare. Take off heat and rest before carving. Carve 5mm pieces against the grain. Serve with baked potatoes and relish.
––————————————–––––––––––––––––––––––––—————— Relish for picanha
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Tomatoes, seeds removed White onions Green capsicum 3 cloves garlic 1/4 cups olive oil 3/4 cup red wine vinegar Cold water Salt, pepper to taste — Dice tomatoes, green capsicum, and onion into cubes. Mix equal measures of the three. Add 1/4 of a cup of red wine vinegar and stir. Add cold water about 1/4 of a cup, and olive oil, all to taste. Add some salt and cracked black pepper to taste. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Serve sliced Picanha over baked potatoes with relish drizzled over the top.
Fl at Iron steak with roasted CAULIFLOWER and Salsa Verde SERVES 6
• ——— FOR THE STEAK ——— •
6 portioned Flat Iron steaks / olive oil, for marinating / 1 red onion, sliced / 1 sprig rosemary 1 head cauliflower / 6 cipollini onions Marinate the Flat Iron overnight in olive oil, red onion and rosemary. Season and cook steaks to required doneness. Cut cauliflower into small florets, season, toss in oil and roast in a hot oven until caramelised. Season the onion, toss in oil and roast until tender. Remove outer layer of skin.
• ——— PARSNIPS ——— • 6 parsnips
Peel and slice the parsnips. Season and roast with butter.
• ——— SALSA VERDE ——— •
1/2 bunch basil, chopped / 1/2 bunch parsley, chopped 1/2 bunch marjoram, chopped / 1 tbsp bread crumbs 1 tps red wine vinegar / 3 tbsp olive oil / Salt & pepper Combine all ingredients and season to taste.
TO SERVE : Place a small pile of parsnips on a plate. Slice steak on top and garnish with cauliflower, onions and a smear of Salsa Verde.
L amb Sk aras
(Braised lamb shoulder in oregano & lemon)
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1.5kg lamb shoulder 1 tablespoon crushed garlic 1/2 cup blended vegetable oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 – 3 tablespoons dried Greek oregano 2 medium onions, chopped 2 bay leaves 100ml olive oil 2 lemons, juiced
In a bowl, mix garlic and vegetable oil to make a paste. Baste the lamb shoulder with the paste and then season with salt, pepper and oregano. Place lamb shoulder into a baking dish. Baste the top of the lamb with the garlic and oil paste and sprinkle again with salt, pepper and oregano. Add some chopped onion and bay leaves to add extra flavour to the dish. Fill dish with water until it is just over the top of the lamb and then cover with baking paper and foil and place in oven (4–5 hours) until tender. Check at 3 1/2 hours. At the final stages, lamb should be falling apart at the touch but holding together in the dish. Shred shoulder pieces and reform into required portion sizes. Refrigerate until required — Baste with remaining paste while reheating to ensure juiciness. Serve with Pommes Anna or a similar potato dish.
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— F E A T U R E 0.4 —
Feeding your inner caveman
– 30 –
— F E A T U R E 0.4 —
The Toma hawk is one of t he la r g est stea k s in Aust r a lia , weig hing up to 1.9k g. The Toma hawk is essent ia lly a r ib - eye a nd t a kes it s na me fr om t he 30cm r ib bone t hat is lef t on when ser ved to t he t able . The Toma hawk stea k or ig inated in t he US , on t he cat t le dr ives nea r t he R io - Gr a nde border w it h Mex ico a nd made it s way to Aust r a lia a few yea r s ag o. Rest aur a nt s in bot h t he US a nd Aust r a lia have it on t he menu to int r oduce a bit of t heat re . A st a nda rd si zed Toma hawk is sha red bet ween 4 g uest s . When you order a Tomahawk steak from your wholesaler make sure you specify that it is from a carcase weight range of 390–420kg as you would like the average weight of your Tomahawk to be 1.2kg–1.6kg. Each rib is frenched leaving the intercostals intact, however the intercostals can be removed if required and rib bones cleaned. A true Tomahawk steak has a rib bone cut to around 30cm in length.
Sea r t he stea k s on bot h sides before t r a nsfer r ing to indirect heat for 30 – 35 minutes , depending on deg ree of doneness required. ø
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O N E C U T WO N D E R S
ey e RUMP side H . A . M No . 2 0 9 4
Eye Rump side (H.A.M. 2094) is cut from an Eye Rump by carefully separating the Eye Rump Side and the Centre Cut. Cut through the centre of the muscles, following the false seam of silver skin. See Master class, page 08, for more information.
— ON E C U T W ON D E R S
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S ean C o nn o l l y
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S t ar C i t y , N S W
Beef Tartare & Carpaccio Trim the beef Tenderloin and roll it tightly in glad wrap. Place in the freezer overnight. Remove from the freezer and slice the fillet as thinly as possible. The beef will be firm but should slice finely. Remove the glad wrap from each disc to serve. Arrange the slices in a circle around the edge of a plate and drizzle with the Gribiche vinaigrette. Place the tartare in the centre and top with a quail egg yolk sitting in the middle. Dress the plate with the potato cubes and chips, frizze lettuce and baby coriander. SERVE S
6
Chef 's Special Tip*** You could use the eye rump side for the Carpaccio as well as the Tartare.
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— ON E C U T W ON D E R S
// Carpaccio
1 kg beef Tenderloin
// Tartare
240 g of beef (eye rump side) finely diced Fine chopped: 12 g cornichons 12 g baby capers 12 g shallots 1 tblsp of chopped parsley
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Mix with:
24 g dijon mustard 30 g tomato ketchup 6 quail egg yolk 2 tblsp worcestershire sauce 1 tblsp tabasco Salt pepper
Garnish
20 g frizze salad (yellow only) 5 cubes of potato size 1.5 cm x 1.5 cm, confit and crispy pan fried 1 quail egg yolk Baby coriander Garlic chips, ginger chips and shallot chips Pink sea salt
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// Gribiche vinaigrette Fine chopped: 6 g egg white 6 g egg yolk 2 g chives 3 g cornichons 3 g baby capers
Mix with:
25 ml olive oil 10 ml sherry vinegar Salt, pepper
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S C OTT P I C K E TT
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T H E P OI N T, V I C
T he e y e r u mp s ide i s a c o n s i s t e nt mu s c le t h r ou g h t he r u mp . A s it c o ok s it pu f f s r i g ht a nd s e r v e d n ic e a nd p i n k lo ok s a nd fe e l s ju s t l i k e t e nde r lo i n but w it h mo r e f l a v ou r. SERVE S
4
Slow cooked ey e of rump, celeriac puree, heirloom carrot and r adish salad 1 x 1-1.2 g m eye rump side 4 x black radish 4 x red radish 4 x heirloom carrots Micro herbs
Clean and remove any sinew from eye rump side, truss with butcher’s string. Season with salt and pepper and seal in a warm pan until golden brown. Cool, and place in a sous vide bag with thyme, Evo and garlic. Cook in a water bath at 60°c until internal temperature of the meat is 55°c. Remove from water and rest for 20 minutes.
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— ON E C U T W ON D E R S
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T o s e rv e : 1 Remove the rump from the sous vide bag, and gently caramelise in a pan once again just to attain that " roasty' flavour once more. 2 Slice into nice thick steaks, approx 6-8cms, and serve in the middle of the plate on top of the celeriac puree. 3 Slice the black radish, and red radish and place in ice water to crisp. 4 Slice some baby heirloom carrots on a long angle, and blanch for 2-3 minutes. 5 Dress the salad with Evo, lemon juice, salt & pepper, and add some micro parsley. 6 The salad should be colourful, crispy and slightly acidic to cut through the meat and puree. 7 Sauce the plate with a red wine sauce finished with red wine vinegar and split with some lemon olive oil.
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— ON E C U T W ON D E R S
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A KIND CHEF
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P E R T H , WA
Coffee encrusted Wagy u steak with blueberry jus and charred eggplant puree SERVE
1
Us i n g a c he a p e r c ut o f r e d me a t a l lo w s me t o u s e s o me t h i n g s p e c i a l l i k e Wa g y u a nd s t i l l k e e p it a t a r e a s o n a b le p r ic e o n t he me nu . E y e r u mp s ide i s r e a l l y t he p o o r m a n’s t e nde r lo i n – s o t e nde r a nd f l a v ou r s o me .
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— ON E C U T W ON D E R S
// Coffee encrusted Wagyu
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// Charred eggplant puree
220 gm Wagyu eye rump side steak 1 tablespoon coffee, dark roast, freshly ground 1 teaspoon salt, Kosher, or 1/2 teaspoon table salt 1 1/2 teaspoon pepper, black ground, freshly ground
(Makes enough puree for 4 serves) 2 large eggplants 2 tablespoons olive oil
Combine ground coffee, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 1/4 teaspoons pepper; gently press onto beef. Cook to required degree of doneness.
Puree eggplants in a blender. Once mixture is removed from the blender, stir through olive oil. Season.
// Blueberry Jus
T o s e rv e : Plate meat with charred eg g plant pour over blueberry jus.
To make the blueberry jus, combine beef stock with berries and reduce to a jus. Remove berries to serve.
Place the washed eggplant directly on a high flame and scorch the surface. This will take between 8 – 15 minutes. Remove the stalk.
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BIT E SI ZED RAIN
surface water DAM
river
water table
GROUNDWATER
M yth : It takes 50,000 litres of water to produce a kilogram of beef Very high figures such as it takes 50,000 litres to produce a kilogram of beef arise from 'virtual water figures'. Virtual water figures attribute every drop of rain that falls on a farm to the production of red meat. Virtual water figures were not intended for environmental measurements and do not give a useful indication of the amount of water that is used to produce a kilogram of beef. A 2009 Life Cycle Assessment carried out by the University of New South Wales for two beef production systems in southern Australia found that it takes between 27 — 540 litres of water to produce a kilogram of beef¹. Furthermore, in the majority of Australia’s cattle production systems, cattle and sheep drink from water that falls on property as rain and collects in dams and river systems or from groundwater supply, rather than relying on town water.(see diagram above)
BITE SIZED
¹Peters G, Wiedemann S, Rowley H and Tucker R. “Accounting for water use in Australian red meat production”. International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment. 15 (2010: 311-320)
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— B I T E S I Z E D
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A miracle marinade Using an acidic marinade (made with lemon juice, vinegar, wine etc) on red meat not only helps to break down collagen and various other proteins in the muscles, but also ionises them, increasing the amount of water they retain � thus maintaining juiciness, one of the characteristics of tender red meat.
Centre cut rump : HAM NO. 2095
The centre cut rump is cut from the rump by removing the cap and the eye rump side. (See Masterclass on page 08 for more detail) This cut of beef can be pan-fried, oven roasted, stir fried and slow braised however it probably performs its best as a slow roast or braise. The centre cut rump is incredibly lean so care must be taken during cooking to not dry it out. Use marinades to protect the meat during cooking and baste if slow roasting.
Rest, Rest, Rest We should all take this advice, but it is crucial when it comes to a just cooked piece of red meat. Resting red meat traps more of the juice within the muscle fibres rather than it being left on your cutting board or worse on your customer’s plate. Resting results in a superior eating experience with each mouthful being as juicy and tender as the last.
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— B I T E S I Z E D
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MOM EN TA RY
Soren Lascelles
sous c h e f —
Assiette
Electrolux Showroom, 8:45pm // 09/08/2010
Soren Lascelles, sous chef, Assiette, NS W � winning the Young Chef Appetite for Excellence award.
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— B I T E S I Z E D
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Winning recipe :
Roast lamb cutlet with caramelized sweetbreads, mushrooms and Jerusalem artichokes // Serves 4
4 x double lamb cutlets 8 x small lamb sweetbreads 400g Jerusalem artichoke peeled & roughly chopped 50g onions finely chopped 10g garlic finely chopped 100g button mushrooms 100g enoki mushrooms 100g oyster mushroom 10ml balsamic vinegar 1 x eschallot 1 clove garlic 4 large Desiree potatoes 1 bunch English spinach
image by domandheath.com
Puree Sweat onion and garlic off until soft, then add Jerusalem artichokes and cover with water. Cook until soft then puree.
Mushrooms Sauté mushrooms with 1 chopped eschallot and 1 chopped clove of garlic. Deglaze with a splash of balsamic vinegar.
Gallette Cut the potatoes into a cylinder shape, then thinly slice on a mandolin. Fan them like a deck of cards, then pan fry in oil until crispy on the outside and soft in the middle. Sauté the spinach in butter for a few minutes. Caramelize the outside of the lamb, and then roast in an oven at 250°c for 4 minutes. Remove and rest. Poach the sweat breads in seasoned vinegar water, and then caramelize in a hot pan. —
To serve : Plate all ingredients as desired.
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— THANK YOU FOR READING — T H I S J O U R N A L