Returning from travels and interviews with various winemakers this edition of ‘Sommelier’ takes the temperature of the inescapable, incredible and intriguing mothership of Pinot & Chardonnay
No. 3 2022
FACEBOOK & WEBMASTER: Kim Thygesen kt@sommelier.dk
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PRACTICAL INFO
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Sommelier #3 2022 25.Year
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..................................................... 52 no.
A
................................................ 6 Burgundy
............................... 20 The
.................................................... 12 Côte
Interview with Bo Barrett: farmer, producing wine. and beyond d’Or – more golden than ever swirl at a glance 2 - 2022
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Ude godt, men hjemme bedst
Oskar Davidsen & Co. – VIN & SPIRITUS · “VALUE FOR MONEY” · RÅDGIVNING & SERVICE ...især når vi har taget det bedste vin med hjem til dig!
BY KETIL KRONGAARD SAUER
When people ask me, what is my favorite wine? I always answer the same; what I am selling right now. For our custumers my current wine is is my favorite wine! However, for myself the favorits are the wines we are still working on in the cellar.
of the land, for the wines to get the angle right to catch the sun. We changed from the easiest way to turn the tractor and making it easy for our selves, to having a superior performance and quality. It’s about the whole thing! Not just the efficiency. We want to achieve the best; it’s about the quality.
Right now, we are matching the rootstock to the soil, be cause we have the tool today to find out what the problems are with a specific plot. The problems can be overcome when you know what they are.We have changed the rows
Interview with Bo Barrett:
What have you done differently over time?
What is your favorite wine?
AN INTERVIEW WITH THE LEGENDARY BO BARETT BEHIND THE FAMOUS CHÂTEAU MONTELENA
possible to let it integrate. It gives a more consistent acid ity, and you won’t be able to taste it. You must know that I am a winemaker and will do anything to make it – the wine – more delicious.
It’s the only way I know. We have solar panels, our own compost and have even or dered the first electric tractor, that we will be beta testers for. We aren’t certified due to paperwork, but we do all the things that match the organic ways, but for instance for the compost, we use chicken ma
If you know that the vintage has a low amount of acidity. It’s better to add as early as
Does your white wine under go malolactic fermentation?
nure and that has to be organ ic as well – the paperwork for this is huge and not worth it.
Does the adequate acidity oc cur normally? Or do you add some?
No.
It depends on the vintage. We make wine in California and sometimes it’s necessary.
A farmer, producing wine
What are your views on sus tainable and organic produc tion?
the judgement of Paris, we could have started making 100.000 cases of wine every year, but we didn’t. 40 years later we were stillw making 6.000 cases.
The price vs. quality. How do you put a price tag on the wine?
What do you think about the climate changing?
That’s a difficult question. We want people to enjoy and drink our wine but if we don’t charge enough people won’t respect it. An example could be our Chardonnay: It was
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No – We want people to drink the wines and we want people to enjoy them. The cork to be pulled and the wine to be en joyed and have an email the day after saying that they en joyed the wine. Do you know what an aquari um wine is? (“No”) “We don’t eat those fish” We don’t want that, we want our wines to be drunk (or eaten)!
Both places, but for the wines to be exposed, I prefer that the wines are served in res taurants to have the somme liers tell our story since in pri vate, many tend to serve the wines for the same circle and I would love for the wines to be enjoyed by many. It’s like a good joke; the more it’s passed around, the funnier it gets. I love the club members of our winery, also they really helped us make it through the covid.
It’s a concern, but where we are farming, the ocean is so big and cold and it’s hard to change. The drought, that we had last year was very much like the drought in 1977, but most people weren’t around to remember that. I was. We learn to adapt, we change the
The price on wines are raising at an astonishing speed right now, could you see yourself keeping the wine and sell them later on at a higher price?
canopy management, so we have more shade. The big deal for us was to change the row angle to get better grapes and also better plants, last year we used 40% less water and still ended up with a great wine. We have made an order for the first electric tractors, al most everything else runs on electric power, powered with solar energy.
What’s the most important decision you have mode?
To stay small!! When we won
Where do you prefer to see your wines being drunk? In private or restaurants.
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What do you think about sommeliers?
caught in no mans land and we didn’t sell any, but then we raised the price 10 dollars and now everyone loves it because it’s considered a fine wine. We try to make something like the catch phrase ‘affordable luxu ry’. When we buy the grapes, it’s easy. If we pay 10.000 dollars for 1 ton, we need to charge 100$ for 1 bottle. Then it’s easy math.
I would like to think about sommeliers like teachers, for an example, if you go to the race track and you look at the odds and bets. Unless you know something and have ex perience, you bet blind, but if you take your uncle who has been there many times and has insider knowledge, you will have a better chance of winning. Sommeliers are sim ilar, they can help you get the bottle, that you will enjoy.
Do you have something that you would like to say?
I would like to say that even though we are featured in the “Bottle Shock” movie, with our Chardonnay… We are a red wine house! We loved to be a part of “Bottle Shock”, but we are a red wine house that makes a small amount of Chardonnay.
Bérêche
Philipsonwine.com tlf.: 70 22 68 88
Domaine Bérèche et Fils er et boutique Domaine for Champagne ”aficionados”. Kærligheden til terroir skinner igennem alle deres vine. Modsat de store champagnehuse, laver Bérêche deres egne vine udelukkende på druer fra vinmarker og deres elegante, mineralske og autentiske vine begejstrer sommelierer og samlere verden over.
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“Winery of the Year – Au Bon Climat. A range of breathtaking wines... To me they represent the very essence of Santa Barbara.” - Antonio Galloni, Vinous 2019
andBurgundybeyond
BY: JONATHAN GOUVEIA
marks the future, as we witness new, young winegrow ers and winemakers emerge as well as the generational changes on the existing do maines, keeping Burgundy
THE PREMISE
Despite being a region firm ly established within our vineous minds as well as the literature, Burgundy is an ever-changing wine re gion. Rooted in traditions with a long history of ter roir and nobility the past
Tomoko is the proprietor of Domaine Chantêreves along with her husband Guillaume Bott. They started as a négo ciant business in 2010 and has
since acquired their own vi neyards in 2020. In the course of establishing their domaine they started from humble be ginnings, and both managed to work full time jobs at the Savigny-les-Beaune based Do maine Simon Bize and Chan don de Briailles, while they at the same time crafted beauti ful wines from purchased gra pes from different plots along the TheyCôte.are
THE IDEA OF TERROIR ( WHATEVER THAT IS )
The focus and demands on Burgundy are higher than ever – at the restaurants the impact is Thesizeable.following is a personal reflection on the situation in Burgundy, as well as the result of a conversation with Tomo ko Kuriyama from now “Do maine” Chantêreves, along with inputs from the Tal loulah Dubourg from Domai ne Cassiopée and Róisín Cur ley MW from her own négoce business.
in tune with time, and with their minds set on change, they make a rather convincing case! Growers making wines from domaine grapes exclu sively are more “en vogue” than ever, and a motivation to discover own land rather than selling is strong.
now both in it full time and seeing as they are focused on the concept of sustainable and regenerative farming, I thought that their idea of terroir would be one of Tomokointerest.especially considers the “human aspect” of terro ir to be of great importance; “terroir is actually something we discover” she goes on by saying
This is something that is more relevant than ever, with the ri sing popularity of sustainable farming, and the collective consciousness that this leads to wines of greater complexi ty, personality and of expres sion of terroir. Talloulah notes that for them organic farming is only the beginning; “the goal is to take as little acti on as we can, and let the vine make the link with the soil as naturally as possible and let it fight by itself.” Their philoso phy is to carefully analyze the risks of using systemic sprays and use 2021 as an example; “And the fact is that in 2021, there were no difference about loss of grapes because of di seases between conventional and organic farming.” Intere stingly Irish born MW Róisín Curley mentions appellations in the northern sector being of particular interest in this context with relation to more polyculture; “Going that bit further North is interesting for me, not only does the soil
Tomoko goes on to reflect on our ideas of what the diffe rent communes of Burgun dy express, and how this is something that we define as terroir; “for example Gevrey would be rustic, Pommard would be tannic, but if you look at young growers and the Burgundy of today there are many who are altering the old concept of the terroir of each climat.” This is a very intere sting observation, especially from the Sommeliers point of view. Is Pommard really tan nic? Is Chambolle really ele gant, is Vosne really velvety soft? Do we need to reconsi der our fundamental idea of Burgundy in order to adjust to the contemporary produc tion? Tomoko highlights Do maine Duroche as someone who breaks tradition in Ge vrey-Chambertin, by expres sing elegance and lifted fruit in Gevrey; “Sometimes people who have been drinking Bur gundy since the 1970’s and 80’s would say “oh that’s not Pommard, that’s not Gevrey” etc. The more the producers engage in their vines, the more you would discover the diver sity of the terroir”.
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and micro climate change, but the agriculture does too, I find more biodiversity in Fixin, for example, with orchard trees and other fruit grown alongsi de the vineyard I work with.”
Forced by rising prices and thirsty clients, present day Sommeliers must search the periphery of the Côte and be open new producers to still provide value for mo ney wines. Looking at the traditionally perceived les ser appellations is something Chantêreves is experienced with as well as working the once overlooked grape Aligo té. Tomoko believes these ap pellations are important for the future; “I think that’s what Burgundy is about; it’s about diversity, and I think if Bur gundy doesn’t want to repeat the mistakes of eg. Bordeaux, we need to focus on ofcourse the leading Domaines but also pay attention to the appella tions that people once didn’t pay attention to.” She men tions producers like Camille Thiriet, noting her wines from
“We make wine to discover what terroir is there to offer, it’s not just about the soil, the climate or the exposition, the key to unlock the terroir is the human factor”. Talloulah from Cassiopée agrees that the human factor is impor tant, but in a certain capaci ty; “The terroir is about soil, vine, climate, and human. Our goal is that the function of hu man is more to support than to take action.”
unlock the potential of some of these terroir, she quickly replied “Yes” but also menti oned the challenge of climate change; “If you’re not enga ged as a farmer I think you will have a tough time coping it Wefinancially.”arenowseeing more and more Domaines in Burgundy who focus on compost, cover crops, pruning methods with concern for sap flow, which are becoming key factors for their success in terms of quali ty, farming is back in fashion!
When I asked her if sustai nable farming was the key to
WIDENING PERCEPTIONOUR
ONCONCLUDINGTHEOBVIOUS
also commenting that her pre ference for sustainably grown grapes as well affect the price; “I pay up to 20% extra for my biodynamically grown grapes, which I have a preference for.”
Róisín Curley agrees with the potential in the appella tions off of the beaten track; “I am excited by the outliers and the appellations that have so much potential but are not properly understood yet or appreciated the way they should be”.
15 Mayacamas, Mt. Veeder
As we touch the sensitive sub ject of pricing, Tomoko notes the difficult situation that the négociants are facing looking back at the last few vinta ges; “Grape prices are rising 80-90% from 2020 to 2021, and if we make Grand Cru or Premier Cru its becoming unattractive for restaurants to put those wines on their list. If we farm modest appellations, we think these will be exciting wines that will surprise your clients, in terms of quality, se riousness and longevity.” The re is no doubt being competi tive for the smaller producers is getting harder and harder, Róisín agrees noting; “It is true that even since I started in 2015, I have seen a huge in crease in grape prices”, while
As climate change demands vignerons to adapt, Aligoté is coming out fighting fists first against the heat, and its win ning! Prized for its elevated acidity, and several sites with slightly older vines, Aligoté is gaining increased attention in modern Burgundy (deser vedly so). Chantêreves makes several single vineyard Aligo té wines, as well does Sylvain Pataille and other prominent growers. Róisín shares her enthusiasm; “I love working with Aligoté; discovering the beautiful sites it is doing well on is fun and rewarding.” To say it won’t remain in the shadow of Chardonnay for the next many years to come would be ignorant, but it sure is worth paying attenti on to, with a broad diversity of styles emerging from dif ferent climats (and terroirs). – But, don’t be fooled, prices for Aligoté are rising as well, both in terms of grapes, juice and finished wine.
anymore, citing climate as the main reason, and highlights 2011 and 2018 as the only recent vintages with a normal yield; “Every year there’s a drought or a frost or a disease that comes with this extreme climate”.Suddenly
very low yields are becoming the norm, and with recent vintages we should expect this to continue. 2020 was a difficult vintage due to warmth and drought, 2021 was an obviously difficult vin tage due to frost and disease which resulted in many pro ducers chaptalizing. Róisín mentions soil as an important factor in the face of chan geable whether patterns; “ The soil (in Fixin) is deep and rich in clay which means in the very dry years such as 2018, 2019 and 2020 the water hol ding capacity of the clay is of huge Talloulahimportance.”believes sustainable and regenerative farming to be the key against the war ming climate; “these ways of working are thought to let the vine develop and adjust itself about climate change, about, frost, about heat and dry ness. If we let it defend itself without operate in its functi on, in its link with soil, it will find other resources. We are convinced about it.” she adds; “And we are sure that this kind of sustainable farming gives more purity, energy to wine.”
lesser-known appellations and climats such as Côte de Nuits Village, and Bourgogne regio nal, as well as Domaine Cassi opée, highly praising their red from Maranges; “Domaine de Cassiopée really showed us what Maranges is capable of. Burgundies of great emotion!” she says. A point she holds in high regard in terms of what Burgundy has to offer.
Tomoko states difficult vin tages in the past 10 years as one of the main reasons for ri sing demand, stating that the entirety of France is simply not producing that much wine
And so, I finish off with a fri endly reminder to look deeper in our search for hedonism, great wines can be made from what we previously perceived to be lesser terroirs, just see
a country of great excitement in terms of terroir, expressing her admiration of Weingut Wasenhaus and their wines from Baden, who were (of course) trained in Burgundy.
Looking at other markets, attention is slowly shifting away from Burgundy in fa vor of discovering wines from other regions searching out a similar elegance and reflecti on of terroir. Tomoko espe cially believes Germany to be
duce wines of great charm, balance, complexity, and length.”
what Róisín says; “Burgundy is made up of a mosaic of different terroirs and has lots to offer all over. Many of the lesser regarded appellations, when gi ven the opportunity to shine, can pro
Gravner kan dateres tilbage til 1901, hvor de første 2,5 hektar jord og huset blev købt. Efter to verdenskrige og adskillige fornyelser i den periode, er det i 1980, at Josko Gravner begynder at beskæftige sig med vingårdens fremtid og giver det hele en tur.
GRAVNER
NU I SORTIMENT HOS BEST SELECTION 97POINT 97POINT 95POINT 94POINT falstaff
www.bestselection.dk86410388
ITALIENSK NATURVIN I SÆRKLASSE
I første omgang anvender Josko alle de nye metoder og teknikker, han har lært under sine studier. Men efter to voldsomme haglstorme beslutter han sig for at ændre sin tilgang til vinproduktionen. Han begynder at macerere sine vine i store træfade og fortsætter indtil 2001, hvor han beslutter sig for at benytte sig af en helt ny procedure, som på det tidspunkt er helt uudforsket i Italien; han begynder at lave vin i store ler-amforaer, der ligger under jorden. Ifølge Josko er det som at vende tilbage til urlivet og til dets kilde, vandet, som bevarer sine reneste egenskaber under overfladen.
19 IKKE ALTID BOURGOGNE BEDSTE ’NEW WORLD’ CHARDONNAY OG PINOT NOIR Kontakt salgschef Thomas Dam for mere information: E: thomas.dam@laudrupvin.dk Tlf: 22 40 45 21 Mileparken 13 | 2740 Skovlunde | tlf. 4484 8086 | www.laudrup.dk A. Moutere Chardonnay NEUDORF, New Zealand B. Linda Vista Vineyard MATTHIASSON, Oak Knoll C. YY Chardonnay YARRA YERRING, Aus D. Vrede Chardonnay STORM WINES, Sydafrika E. Tout Près Pinot Noir BY FARR, Aus F. One Acre Pinot Noir LITTORAI, Anderson Valley G. Pinot Noir DOG POINT, New Zealand H. La Côte Pinot Noir DOMAINE DE LA CÔTE, Sta. Rita Hills 4 A B D F H C E G
BY: NINA HØJGAARD JENSEN
Domaine du Comtes
Excerpts from a travel log from two trips a month apart in Côte d’Or. Presenting here some extracts of the changes within the domaines, different approaches and opinions, rather than an evaluation of all the wines tasted - only the featuring a few tasting notes of the wines that are most hard-to-get. A few visits highlighted in depth, others in shorter references while some again are a part of shaping the more overall impressions.
Liger-Belair Estate
LIGER - BELAIR:
Awaiting behind Liger-Belairblue metal lattice gate lies the majestic estate of Domaine du Comtes Ligier-Beliar. A Tesla in the driveway and a beau tiful Weimaraner is our wel come committee as the gate opens at exactly the appoint ed time: 11.00. You can’t help but get the feeling that we are generously let in. Attending the visit is also a crew from a three starred Michelin restau rant in “Louis-MichelMilan.
DOMAINE DU COMTES
Louis-Michel makes his en trance. A genuine smile on his face and in a good mood he greets us with warmth and charm, checking which language to speak: “English is good – northern Europe, Southern Europe – the ones that buy and the ones that don’t!” He laughs, white teeth twinkling in the sun. Luckily the Italians find it amusing too. We are taken to a terrace overlooking Clos du Château. This is to illustrate the future of the domaine. He is show ing us the outlay of the new cuverie which was finished in 2019 – costing a few rows of the Clos du Château but a necessary step to improve quality – and comfort fort the Comtes “Now I can go from my bed and to the winery in my slippers in the middle of the night if I want.I don’t have to go outside!” He chuckles and proceeds to talk about the expansion of the Clos du Château obtained with the purchase of the neighboring
Louis-Michel with Clos du Château and the new cuverie in the background
house with an unplanted gar den as a direct extension of the Clos, expanding it with just under half a hectare. He has visionary plans for the use of the property, where he wants to bring life and possi bilities to Vosne-Romanée, an otherwise small village with out much to do. The house will be transformed into both a serious wine bar, a few gues trooms as well as a place to buy simple, groceries (some thing Vosne doesn’t current ly have!) and collect or send post orders. Furthermore, he wants to facilitate a drop-off option for winemakers to de liver their wines for collec tive shipping. While this huge project has the side effect of manifesting the stronghold of the Comtes in Vosne, it will add a lot of opportunities for visitors and locals alike, sud denly offering them an op tion for a shared social life at a public space, as well as making it unnecessary to ac tually leave the village more
Louis-Michel looking over Clos du Château
will be here in just a moment”. Louis-Michel – The Comtes – is more than a winemaker in Bourgogne; he is a persona. A controver sial one that is. Mentioning his name always triggers a reaction. Some are smiling in learned acceptance, some in disbelief, others in admira tion and others again with the warmth of when you think of a dear friend. In common is a great respect for his wines.
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Deep, earthy qualities, baked clay minerality, very floral, next level finesse and length. Fruit condi tion is somewhat tart, very precise contrasted by the masterful oakuse. Persistent, but extremely re fined tannins. A magical ethereal quality. Feels like sleeping in silken sheets with a large bouquet of purple flowers at your bedside and a bowl of red berries to munch.
At the time of our visit, the
2018 CLOS DE LA GRANDE VIGNES BLANC, NSG:
Deep color and deep nose. Sweet baking spices, apparent oak influence, marked tannins. Juicy red apple lays background for the dark, dominating fruit. Creamy viscosity and body. Complex.
Well-aware of his own suc cess, Louis-Michel is strutting about in either red or blue pants, not shy of sharing his ruthlessly honest opinion and putting people to work. You get a sense that he loathes Westagnation.willbe tasting mainly 2018s with the legit argument of it being what we sell in the restaurants. “2021 is still in malo so we switch around a little. 2022 is a pushy and quick vintage. We have never witnessed such a quick vin tage thus far. Last year we have never seen a frost that hard say the guys who have been working for 40-50 years in the vineyards!”
grapes had already reached a size of about 1cm in diameter! Later he further elaborates on the question of the late malo, explaining it is many ways is a return to the previously known from 30-years back. “At the moment the oak shows less integration with the late malo, but it is too early to tell if that will be the finished re sult as it needs one winter of cask aging before bottling”. We are guided into the tast ing room where the LigerBelair-blue is repeated mak ing it clear how the capsules and esthetics of the labels are connected to the place, more strongly than most places. He has hired an in-house somme lier to oversee the pouring at the tastings.
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than once or twice a week. “In the wine bar we want about 1000 entries of only organ ic or biodynamically farmed grapes, with one producer per week of Vosne-Romanée by the glass to highlight the com mune and local winemakers. We will have 4 rooms while Mugneret-Gibourg next door is currently making 5 rooms. All of this should be ready by November, and the rooms by March” explains Lou is-Michel. A change of pace for Vosne, but it nonetheless sounds like an awesome op portunity for the wine tour ists! Who knows, maybe a fol low up on the project will be in the press under a year from now?
tle earthiness. Hard texture with tannins dominat ing given some counterplay by by the sweet-toned vanilla.
2018 ECHEZEAUX:
TASTING, DOMAINE DU COMTES LIGER - BELAIR:
Red spiced, aromatic rosa pepperiness, ripe, sweet fruitcondition which harmonizes the evident oak and firm tannins. Tannins are super silky. Red, tart berry undertone as well as the acidity cuts through the fat fleshiness of it. Stylish, glossy, wine with more body and higher viscosity in comparison to the other.
Vanilla bean, tart plum, ripe, wild strawberry, sub
2018 CLOS DU VOUGEOT:
2018 CLOS DE LA GRANDE VIGNES ROUGE, NSG:
Light, delicate, fine tannins, elevated perfume of rose, lavender, bright red fruit and dark cherry. Charming.
2018 CLOS DU CHÂTEAU, VOSNE:
2018 AUX REIGNOTS, VOSNE:
Sharp acidity, light creaminess, and chiseled struc ture. Tart fruitcondition centered around lemon, pink grapefruit and peach.
TO THE TASTING ROOM
Ripe, sweet fruitcondition displaying wild forest berries, crushed violets, sweet spiced, star anise. Polished texture. The heat of the vintage shows.
2018 LA ROMANÉE:
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Aarhus: 15. august 2022 København: Januar 2023 46.500 kroner
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Næste studiestart Pris
Vi har vores nye 2022/2023 katalog (både vin og spiritus) klar med masser af nyheder, så du kan smage dig igennem og finde præcis det sortiment, der passer til dig.
25 Vi glæder os til at se jer. Svar udbedes senest 29. august 2022.
I løbet af dagen vil vi sørge for lidt mad, så der også er lidt til ganen.
Så tag dine ansatte under armen og kom til Juuls Engros forhandlerdag.
Vi stiller op med et kæmpe udvalg af vores spiritus og vin, så du har rig mulighed for at lade dig inspirere og få en god snak med en masse dygtige medarbejdere fra Juuls Engros.
– så lover vi at stå klar fra klokken 12 med en masse smagsprøver og fagsnak.
JUULS ENGROS INVITERER TIL FORHANDLERDAG MANDAG D. 5. SEPTEMBER 2022 TURBINEHALLEN I AARHUS FRA KL.12:00 TIL KL. 21:00 MANDAG D. 12. SEPTEMBER 2022 JUULS ENGROS I BAGSVÆRD FRA KL.12:00 TIL KL. 21:00 • Bliv inspireret af en masse nye produkter og smag på et kæmpe udvalg af spiritus. • Masser af vine fra Tyskland, USA og mange andre lande - få en snak med en af vores vinspecialister. • Tag dine medarbejdere med og smag vores sortiment igennem. • Mød flere af vores leverandører. SÆRLIGETILBUD KUN VED FREMMØDE PÅ DAGEN FÅ INSPIRATIONEN TIL EFTERÅRET JULEHANDLENOG
Tilmelding: forhandlerdag@juulsengros.dk. Husk at angive tydeligt navn, antal og om du deltager i Aarhus eller Bagsværd
ONPERSPECTIVETIMEAND STYLE
Moving on to the Clos du Châ teau it shows as expected the far lightest color in the lineup. It always does, Luis-Michel confirms. It is the 0,8ha vine yard adjacent to the Château itself hence, the name, and surrounded by a wall. Just below it is La Colombiere. The yields on Clos du Châ teau is higher than from the other vineyards. Belonging to
the Liger-Belair family since 1815 it is somewhat a signa ture wine from them and al ways a sublime expression of Vosne-Romanée Village.
Expansion of Clos du Château
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Sulphites in the vineyards causing controversy: The sulphites sprayed in the vineyards, accepted by both biodynamic farmers as well as organic, is giving rise to many questions – with several of the domaines we visited they were either directly against it or dialing back. The thing is: Plants cannot uptake the sul phites and it will be washed out into the ecosystem, some times causing huge damage such as a sulphite-polluted lake nearby vineyards where all fish die. Upon harvesting you risk having a lot of sul phites on your grapes caus ing potential trouble with both fermentation and/or reduction as H+ can bind to
In the tasting we are intro duced to a wide range of the Liger-Belair wines, start ing out with the Clos de la Grandes Vignes Blanc – the only white wine of the do maine because “we took it over that way”. A 2,3ha 1er Cru in Nuits-Saint-Georges acquired in 2012. Currently it is planted with 0,7ha of new Pinot Noir plantings, 1,3ha of old vines and 0,1ha of vines at a massive density of 24.000plants/ha planted ‘en foule’ – the remaining 0,2ha is the Chardonnay original ly planted by the Montille family. The idea of the dense planting is to better showcase the terroir and they are imple menting the same principle on Clos du Château. Referring to Lalou Bize-Leroy, who long time have been known for high-density planting, it was
initiated in 2014 on a trial ba sis. Louis-Michel uses the op portunity to elaborate on the difference between red and white wine making: “The red is one month of intense win emaking. One month where you need to be there every day. It is a sprint. White wine is a marathon where it takes longer time to finish but you can leave for a few days. For the whites we over-oxidize the must after pressing to vacci nate it against premox”.
The new property in rebuilding with the piece of garden that will become Clos du Château.
Next in line is Clos de la Grande Vi gnes Rouge with 1,12ha of the top half of the vineyard planted in the 50’ies. Located on the Premeux side of Nu its-Saint-Georges it clearly shows how the winemaker is a part of the terroir, which Louis-Michel also brings at
tention to: “It is a Nuits made by a guy from Vosne. Man is a part of the terroir and a large part of what we connect with the different styles. Be fore the 70’ies wines would be made by negociants and Beaune, Santenay, Gevrey and Nuits-Saint-Georges were major places of the negoces. When you were a grower/winemaker you knew you could sell the wine if you made it like the negoce asked you to for the composition of the blend. And when growing up you taste the wines your father makes from when you are small. You like it throughout your upbringing and with that you start making the same style even when you don’t sell to the négoce anymore.” An idea tapping in to the time where the idea of many appellations is changing.
the SO 2 and create H 2SO 4 giving the signature reduced aromas. Both Mugnier and Coudray-Bizot are ex amples of producers preferring to use small amounts of systemic fertilizers and fungicides that the plant is able to uptake while Seiichi Saito (Petit-Roy) is making a great effort to dial back on the sulphite use and use essential oils as sprays instead since 2017 as well as looking into sulphate isotopes allowing him to spray 1l/ha rather than 5l/ha of Bordeaux-mixture.
THE LAST BOMB
During the tasting Lu is-Michel drops another bomb: Disagreements among the Lamarche family has led to a split and Comtes Liger-Belair is now farming one third of Lamarche hold ings which we will see the first vintage of released this year. The vineyards include Grands Echezeaux, more Clos du Vougeot, Malconsorts, Croix Remeau among others.
One thing is for sure: The Comtes is on a path forward and his large fanbase has a lot to look forward to!
Vines in Grand Cru Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 14th of July
Upon tasting the Clos du Vougeot, Louis-Michel starts to elaborate more on his point of view on steminclu sion: For the 1er and Grand Crus he will add a little if he feels like it, but he always feels it will result in some bit terness and fuller body: “For 1er and Grand Crus you want something more explosive and expressive. But you need to select it carefully”. Dur ing harvest the grapes will be deemed ready from tasting them – there is no better un derstanding than that in the eyes of Louis-Michel. He likes to mix 75% perfectly ripe grapes with 15% overripe and 15% underripe grapes to gain complexity. Then he will spend the full day at the sorting table making sure the standards are kept.
It will be exciting to experi ence the Liger-Belair interpre tation of these great terroirs –time will show if the prices will be exciting enough to cause a minor stroke. Liger-Belair for one has watched the mar ket prices closely and hates watching his wines end up at eBay when they are meant for restaurants and wine-lovers. The steep increase in prices is merely a reflection of the mar ket and small harvests.
nately) without a question the grandest of the wines and sur prisingly approachable. Way more so than both Echezeaux and Clos du Vougeot.
Each of the wines we taste are declared in a majestic and enthusiastic manner by Lou is-Michel: “Clos du Château!” “Reignots” “Echezeaux!”. Upon the loud “La Romanée!” We all straighten our backs and assume a (even more) se rious manner. I don’t think any of us had counted on that to be in the lineup. A wine far out of our reach to indulge in at a restaurant making it even more important to Lou is-Michel to share it with us. As he says: “You are the ones selling it. It is important that you know what it tastes like – otherwise how would you be able to recommend it? We all have some responsibility in that regard.” It is (fortu
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grapes had very low malic acid content but high tartaric acid hence, after malo, they have remained fresh and firm in the acidity. Many producers had their earliest harvest on record in 2020, including Domaine des Comtes La fon and Domaine Fourrier.
2021 is ridiculously problematic when it comes to the final volume. Everyone we spoke to were down minimum 30% in volume –most of them between 50-80%! The warm winter induced an early spring causing frost to be a huge problem. June hail and aggres sive changes in weather in July and August reduced the yields dramatically and created a problematic vintage in terms of disease pres sure. The result is a classic vintage reminiscent of old times. Many needed to chaptalize, but the wines nonetheless have turned out well. They are all about the freshness and the ele gance – you didn’t have a vintage to tame in the same way as with the 20’ies. For the longtime lovers of Bourgogne, I can only imagine a brilliant reception of these wines. They tick all the boxes for a classic style – perhaps one that many winemakers needed to be reminded of making – but the enthusiasm about the wines is intact and so it the quality.
2022 Seems to become a record-breaking year for many wineries in terms of harvest date. It is a rapid, unproblematic vintage with what looks to be a huge crop load. Already in the middle of June, large grapes were on the vines and a month later the disease pressure was still almost zero. Returning a month later in July, the crop still looked good, but with many heatspikes and record breaking July temperatures. Luckily, they also had some heavy rain show ers, so the vineyards were seeming to thrive. Most vignerons plan to harvest between the 20th of August and the 5th of September with the majority aiming for 24th-25th of August.
IMPRESSIONS OF 2020, 2021 AND 2022 VINTAGE
Some winemakers such as Mark Haisma and Seiichi Saito believes that the wines of Bour gogne have never been better. They love the warm vintages and believe it grands them much better option to let the grapes be as unmanipulated as possible. To them, it is a matter of adjusting the vineyard practices to best be in line with these new conditions. As Mark says: “We have got to take the ego out of winemaking! We [winemakers] are fixers with fiddly fingers. We try to all the time fix things. But we should be better in trying not to. I call myself a lazy but observant wine maker. (…) There is always more you can do in the vineyard, but at some point you have to say – enough. You have to realize, that it is the plant making the quality and after all, you only have so much to say and do as a winemaker but we have to let the vineyard to its things.”:
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2020 exists in our minds as this dry, hot vin tage of power. Surely winemakers could make such wines if they didn’t pay attention to the grapes, and harvested too late, but the 2020’ies we tasted were for the better part very ap proachable but not flat or dull at all. They had balance and freshness in between the generous fruit and intensity. Certainly, more than the two previous vintages have had to my palette. In 2020 you had to pick before overripens rather than before the rot, and the fruit that came in was so healthy that only very little sorting was needed. By talking to several win emakers, it becomes clear that the heat and drought interacted in an interplay: The vines shut down during the hottest of the summer heat spikes due to drought - froze the ripen ing in time for between 5-10 days depend ing on the vineyard. Rain then came just in right time, revitalizing the vines, helping bring the last of the maturity needed. At the same time the crop was healthy and consistent. The
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Cellar
are curious to see what he is all Jeanabout!started
understanding of the history of the domaine as well as the previous challenges, yet he, from the very beginning, had a clear vision of what exactly was a necessary change to im prove. While big tannins are not his thing, Jean wishes still to maintain the durability that the Vogüe wines are praised for. “I would like to continue to make wine for the long run, but I would like to modern ize some too,” he says “In the cur rent vision there will be some adjustments to be more respectful to the terroir”. In the begin ning he speaks much of a gentle modernization and his initial answer to what he has changed is “not that much”, but as we proceed the visit it becomes clear that he in fact has done quite a lot. at Vogüe
COMTES GEORGES DE VOGÜE
It is with a different type of excitement we enter de Vogüe – a new winemaker, Jean Lu patelli, is in charge, and we
in 2020 replac ing Francois Millet from the 2021 vintage bringing about a fresh energy and different outlook after 34 years. Jean is obviously approaching the task with great respect and
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Extremely good is certain ly also what you can call the 2021s we taste from casks. They are precise, full of en ergy and tension and bright in style. The Amoureuses was one of the most brilliant wines we tasted the whole trip: Per fumed, broad on the palette, tartness in fruit to compliment a creaminess in the texture, fine, mellow tannins and an expansive, lifting finish. Yes – it is somewhat hard from the cask to recognize that you are indeed drinking Vogüe wines, but Jean seems to steer the ship into a well-consid ered direction with a firm and calm hand leading Vogüe into present and future. Whether he with his gentler and more readily approachable style will succeed in maintaining the same durability as the Vogüe wines before had, time will show. It begs the question – what is most important? A wine with a far broader and more open drinking span or a wine to save for it to age gracefully reaching extreme heights at its best?
The work in the vineyard however, Jean is very pleased with. But… A lot of the vines need replanting. Also here, Jean seems to possess either a great persuasive power or the ability to cut through and ar gue well for his choice: “They didn’t replant anything for 40 years, so it is one of the great emergencies. The owners have agreed to take away 1/3 of Les Amoureuses in 2022 which had a lot of virus. We will replant in 5-6 years time and most likely with density of 10.000 plants/ha. How we
The bettering of the fruit quality reaching the press and improvement of the pressing itself allows for the fermen tation to be in barrel rath er than stainless steel, which was previously employed. The grapes that get destemmed are now being done so by a new, more gentle destemmer.
to succeed… So I had to do it by hand in 2021. Now we have a new update to the soft ware and should be able to use it from this vintage”. Well, for once an advantage to the ’21 vintage being so small, I think to myself.
THE CRYSTAL BALL
The vinification facilities have gotten a big facelift: “When you are new a place it is per haps easier to make requests and easier to grant the wishes to forge a good cooperation between the owners and the winemaker. So it was a good time for me to take the op portunity and replace many of the old machines etc. in the winery”.Stepone
handle the rest of the domaine is currently being planned”. You don’t need a crystal ball to predict the increased scar city this difficult, but neces sary choice will create.
Despite the many adjustments Jean has made, he is very pleased with what Francois Millet got out of the 2020’ies: “Francois left some really beautiful wine behind. The 20’ies are extremely good!”
is the picking meth od: Before the grapes went into large bags; Jean started the use of harvesting in small crates which can be stacked, and the grapes don’t get dam aged as easily as when har vesting and stacking in larger batches. Upon the arrival of the grapes to the winery the grapes goes onto a new shiny, vibrating sorting table allow ing greater precision than the old one. These to factors are the direct reason to why Jean now has the possibility of stem inclusion. From ex perience Jean is used to work with 50% whole cluster but will not necessarily employ that to all cuvées. Instead, he makes a thoughtful assess ment for each vineyard plot. Jean has a special interest in the in-berry fermentation of the whole cluster grapes, but whole cluster implementation is also more requiring of the winemaker. “The whole clus ter will change the fermenta tion temperature and make it go lower – instead of going up to 32oC it will only reach 28oC, so you need to be more attentive,” Jean says, “We had this mechanic press with an old system for pressing so the pressing was reprogrammed to run by a current standard, but the computer was too old
In the vat room new stain less-steel tanks can be found allowing the wines to be blended to uniformity – the old tanks were actually not large enough to hold the full volume of wine prior to bot tling, so often you would have slightly different bottlings of the same cuvée. You could ar gue it adds to the charm, but for reliability this seems to be a great advancement.
Entering some of the holiest and most respected cellars in Bourgogne we are welcomed at Mugnier by Francois Mo riamez – Frédérics personal assistant. He steps out of the beautiful blue door in the main house. “It is hot, eh…” He says calmly but with the hint of a frown. Other wine makers have seemed enthusi astic about what 2022 looks like so far. Francois is not so sure; he is worries about the heat. “10 times since the 14th century have we picked in August. 8 out of the 10 have been in the 21st century”. Per haps a part of the worry is the combination of heat and large
cropload for Mugnier, who normally keep their yield no toriously low.
“[When renting out land…] There are 3 types of contract here in Bourgogne. 9 years, 18 years, and 25 years. For the 9 years you need to give two years notice – in not you get nine years more. When you have completed the first 9 years you can also get an 18 years contract. Here you also need to give notice 2 years before taking back the land. So you need to think ahead with kids and consider who else is may be available to take care of it if something happens in these years. The 25 years contract is the last stop. Here the contract can either be terminated, the own ers of the vineyard can decide to start make wine, they can change the tenant, or the land can be sold with the first right of purchase to the one renting the
Bourgogne contracts are shaping the land, giving rise or fall to producers: For instance, had Pierre Morey and before him his father Auguste Mo rey most of the Lafon white wine producing vineyards in metayage (sharecropping) until Dominique Lafon took back the vineyards when the metayage arrange ments began to run out in the late 1980’s. The metay age on the Montrachet plot ended in 1991, where Pierre Morey returned the plot to Dominique Lafon.
Jean Lupatelli at Comte Georges de Vogüe
The doors at J.-F.Mugnier
Allland.”over
The demands have exceeded the supply for years, and when they finally regained Clos de Maréchale, the greatest joy at Mugnier was, that their wines could finally be shared with a far greater number of people –The Faiveley contract from 1948 ended in 2003 and so the Mugnier grew from 4ha to 14ha making the first Clos de la Maréchale in 2004! That big of an upgrade also made it necessary for Mugnier to expand their facilities. They made everything work by gravity flow to best support
CONTRACTS IN BOURGOGNE EXPLAINED BY ELODIE ( DOMAINE ALAIN MICHELOT ) :
34 14 - 06 - 2022 J.- F.MUGNIER
the delicacy and gentleness Mugnier stands for. Half the wines are fermented in large, rather wide wooden vats dat ing back 100 years and the other half is in stainless steel. The wooden vats are provid ing a different, larger skin-tomust contact, their width sup porting the “infusion” style of maceration well – infusing referring to a gentle punch down every day and fermen tations kept low in tempera ture. “We don’t have a sorting table – we believe the work is
Ok is a vast understatement but speaks well to the hum bleness you will still find at the Mugnier premises.
done in the vineyards to the extent that it is also where we sort. Our staff of 7 fulltime employees are also all work ing mostly in the fields. When the grapes arrive, we destem but do not crush – so that the fermentation start with in the berry. The moment the wines are done with the vini fication and enters elevage we don’t do much… We are very lazy in the cellar. Ok we top off, but that is a few hours every Friday. But of course the vineyard work is hard
and precise” Frédéric catches the joke when I ask what his job then is: “Well – nothing it would seem. You know – that is why I have the best job. I get to drink the wine all the time, but I do nothing of the hard. And it seems that our approach works out ok”.
2014 Musigny Serious, structured, complete, less glossy than the 21’s – muscle building anal ogy is very clear – candied fruit condition, grows to elegance in the glass, silky tannins. Dried oak bark, crushed violet, dried cardamom lingers in the background. Everything about this wine feels authentic, luxurious, and stylish.
2021 Bonnes Mare s Airy and intense at the same time. Hedonistic and with just the right tartness of the dark and red fruit that intertwines. Sur prisingly approachable. Not as ethereal as the two others.
Modernized vat room at Mugnier working by gravity flow
more marked tannins than the Bonnes Mares.
2021 Musigny Already harmonious, a perfec tion that will make you smile. Intense without being powerful, very fragrant, entirely red fruit ed and bright, deep, moist earthiness, subtle dried spices, rounded, fine tannins.
2021 Amoureuses Initially closed but shows great promise. Medicinal undertones, tart, flo ral, gaining wait as it opens. Statuesque with
Tasting of the trinity – the 21’s from. Francois comments on tasting barrel samples: “We are building muscle on the wines the last winter of elevage. It comes after the elegance and fruit is build.”
EFTER REGN OG BLÆST, EKSTREM VARME OG KULDE DETTE ER RIBERA DEL DUERO DEM, DER HAR PRØVET DET, VED DET BELØNNINGENKOMMER Wine, only appreciated in moderation Made to Move You
37 Tyske Chat Sauvage vil være mindst lige så gode som de bedste fra Bourgogne, og det er kun de bedste vinmarker, der er egnede til et sådant prestigeprojekt. 98 point jamessuckling.com 2020 BESTESCHARDONNAYFASS,GUTSWEIN CHAT SAUVAGE, RHEINGAU, TYSKLAND 1809490920100%ChardonnayLysefisk/fedefisk /lyst kød Riedel Chardonnay 2018 PINOT NOIR LES SCHULZ BY VERENA SCHÖTTLE, GUTSWEIN CHAT SAUVAGE, RHEINGAU, TYSKLAND 1060380918100%Pinot Noir Fadlagret 12 mdr. Lyst kød / lyse fisk Riedel Pinot Noir 220715_Sommelier #3_210 x 297 mm_H.J.Hansen_Chat Sauvage.indd 1 06-07-2022 12:25:29
LAFON & PEERS ON PLANTING
This year they grubbed up 1/3 of Genevrières! Before they will replant vines, the land will be in fallow for 3 years. When they replant they em ploy selection massale. The stance on clones in Bourgogne is varied. While Seiichi Sai to (Petit-Roy) likes selected clones giving him an option to select for quality and allowing him to use less sprays, he also has an example of a clone he suspects not to be well adapt ed to its location: “For the Les Lormes Bourgogne rouge I can harvest 35hl/ha and the vines are 30-35 years old. For De Sousa Bourgogne Rouge I have 75 year old vines, but I can harvest 70hl/ha. I real ly like the De Sousa clone, it is a very old clone and very special”. Jêrome Galeyrand sheds light on his opinion: “After the 1960’ies the way we selected was from visual quality and not so much for the taste. The modern clones are therefore chosen to resist coulure, rot, millerandage etc. more than the taste. When I select for replanting, I just think about the flavor and the vegetative quality. What mat ters most in winemaking is the vegetative work you do”. At Domaine Fourrier they in form how many of the clones widely planted in the 1960’ies [prior to the official 1971 re lease of the Dijon clones] died in the heat of 2020. They have replanted those with 777 in stead but combines clonal selection with massale. The time of the vineyard in fallow across the board varies from 3-7 years; a costly affair.
When you arrive at Comtes Lafon you have Clos de la Barre in the backyard of the estate. The 2,1ha monopole is a stable force in the portfolio, very rarely closing in the bot tle. It is one of the first vine yards to bud but one of the last to be harvested.
Lafon garden with Clos de la Barre in the background
COMTESDOMAINE2022DESLAFON
obvious once addressed yet completely overlooked until then: When the vintage is fast, such as 2022 is, it becomes difficult to follow the biody namic calendar meticulously. You then need to prioritize. Bottling is crucial – it must be on a flower day. Also, the bio dynamic sprays need to fall on very specific days. Every time you move wine around in the cellar they are careful to also match it to the calender. It inevitably become a give and take situation: One can only imagine how displeasing that is to a perfectionist. I guess learning to stoically accept and work with the course of nature is step one to becom ing a vigneron.
38 15 - 06 -
We can hear a faint continu ous clinging sound: At Comtes Lafon they are busy bottling. They have secured the bottles they need for the year – not everyone is so lucky: One of the largest glass bottle manu factures is in Ukraine, mean ing many now wait anxiously, hoping the bottles will arrive before this harvest.
At Lafon replanting is going on continuously. Desirée, a Meursault Santenots, came back to life in 2015 after be ing replanted 10 years ago.
Lafon works, as so many oth er of the top domaines, bio dynamically. Yet Pierre who hosts us, is the first to bring the attention to something
Vineyard holdings Domaine des Comtes Lafon
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We are taken on a small win ery tour starting at the huge investment in process: An en tirely new vat room allowing them to handle harvest much more precisely set to be com plete before this vintage is in house – a great necessity in the vintages with extreme weather. “You know, because of the water mirror we don’t really have the same option to make deep cellars here as
As we walk through the cel lar, we are introduced with great enthusiasm to the many upgrades made since pre mox-times. The most obvious
13 - 07-
We drive up to Domaine Le flaive. A little stressed about time – it is 9.55 and we are meeting at 10.00. We have got a kind advice: Don’t be late. They are strict about time! We easily understand why as they are already standing outside, ready to greet us 5 minutes ahead of arrival. But we made it in time – a good start!
DOMAINE2022LEFLAIVE
you can in Beaune or some of the other villages,” A remark that taps right into the histo ry of Leflaive as always being groundbreaking: When they started vinifying Bourgogne in Puligny no-one else did so.
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control: “Before the temper ature was very inconsistent. It meant the wines expanded and retracted which could be a big part of the premox prob lem. We also do less pumping now and we no longer need to transfer the wine to the oth er side of the village to bot tle.” Recalling 40-60% of the wines from each vintage dur ing the premox years must have forced Leflaive consider
Tasting at Domaine Leflaive
every step. Sometimes putting under loupe every step can be healthy for any type of busi ness. In 2015 they changed to Diam closures. “We did many tests in 2011. We measured the free SO2 levels in natu ral and with Diam corks and could see that it stayed con sistent and lasted for much longer under Diam than nat ural cork. That also means we can be more precise with our
of them is the egg-cellar for elevage finished in 2014: A completely egg shaped, large barrel room made from en tirely natural, local material. Thought out by the late AnneClaude Leflaive, the shape in biodynamic philosophy represents life and ensures a good flow of energy. Less ob vious but perhaps even more important is the improved air conditioner and humidity
der. There is respect for the unknown an unseen but also a clear direction. And all the wine´s across the board just
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well as the possibility of pro ducing Pinot Noir, something he misses dearly. It creates a healthy space for exploration and broadens the horizons. Perhaps it will be a crucial part of keeping Leflaive at the top of the game?
HÅNDLAVET EUROPÆISK VIN
We are tasting the 2020’ies –a vintage they rightfully are very happy about: “It is more classic to our style. It doesn’t have as much fat as the 2019’s or 2018’s. We also didn’t have as long a fermentation. Long fermentation creates more fattiness in the wines because you have an increased bacte rial activity and that makes other aromas than yeast activ ity.”There is a sense of very strong identity present at Leflaive. There is kindness but also or
use of SO2 and use less too now. We of course don’t know exactly why we got this prob lem, but Diam and the better air conditioning are very im portant changes.”
The gradual change and up grade of the facilities have furthermore enabled Domaine Leflaive, like Liger-Beliar, to expand the production: Last year they purchased vineyards in Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Mâconnais as well as the launching addition of the négociant Esprit Leflaive this year with the inargual vin tage 2018 hitting the market. With Esprit Leflaive, wine maker Pierre Vincent gained a new playground where he can get in touch with terroirs that perhaps are not typical ly linked with the Leflaive style – such as Corton – as
VINOVA.DK - TLF. 20 80 50 22
Eggperforms.cellar
at Domaine Leflaive
2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Nothing short of outstanding. A big Chevalier with bold ness, butter and toasted nuances outweight ed by the purity, focus and refinement. There is something airy about it despite it being complex, long and generous. Aciaflowers, acacia oak, white peach, aromatic citus –encapsulates everything about Puligny at its epitome.
2020 Les Pucelles Precise, restrained, miner al born, complex, nutty, raw champignons, citrussy, some green, exotic fruit. Very live ly and lingering aftertaste. Without the punching weight of the Montrachets, with enchanting delicacy and finesse. Grand Cru level.
2020 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Show ing a little shyly that day. White peach, green abricot, lemonpeel, fingerlime, chiseled, sa line focus, wet stone minerality, loads of tex ture. You can feel the power and intensity of the wine easily but it second to the fresh ness. Light on the toes but with each step carefully calculated. Once it starts to show the power it will come to supreme balance.
Where Montrachet ends and Chevalier Begins. The white gate marks the be ginning of the Leflaive Chevalier plot. In the foreground is Batard
TASTING, DOMAINE LEFLAIVE:
2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Creamy, fresh but ter, buttermilk, ripe lemon, lemonjuice, yel low apple, pecannut, weighty but not heavy, looooong aftertaste. More woody texture than Bienvenues, Bâtard seems to bear stronger witness of the oak presence, which suits the intense power well. More obvious but without loosing sophistication.
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Giacomo Conterno Apollonio Luigi Pira BisolGarofoli Il TerreLaBertaLeonildoRobertoBartoloBoveHofstätterMocaliCa’MatteoMauroLaPanizziFlorioAntonioVieAlbinoElioCapovillaGianfrancoCascinoneAlessandriaAltareRoccadiRomansCaggianoCiarlianaVeglioCorreggiadeiFratiMascarelloVoerzioPieropanSpinettaNereTenutadiBibbianoRevelloPiaggiaMorganteSanGiustoaRentennanoVillaSimoneCiacciPiccolominiCantinedelNotaioCascinaFontanaManincorErmacoraBrigaldaraCa’LaBiondaAlphaZetaCos ”KØDFULD OG KOMPLEKS SMAG”INFO@VINFORSYNING.DK WWW.VINFORSYNING.DK”GODSTRUKTURFRUGTSØDME,OGSPRØDHED” SOMMERVINEFLOTTE
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Great pride, great respect and still great humbleness thrives in Bourgogne. The vignerons ask many of the same ques tions as we do in terms of availability and pricing. In the end, most of them just want to create something special for people to enjoy and appreci ate. In a way they also think it has become a little crazy. For them everything gets more expensive too: Labor, grapes, land, bottles, water, casks,
Special thanks to all the do mianes for taking the time: Comtes du Liger-Belair, Comtes Georges de Vogüe,
Domaine Alain Michelot, Do maine de l’Arlot, J.-F.Mugni er, Domaine Matrot, Domaine du Comtes de Lafon, Jêrome Galeyrand, Lou Dumont, Do maine Fourrier, Domaine Le flaive, Mark Haisma & Do maine Petit-Roy.
RETURNING
capsules, labels… Add on top of that the current market for the wines that only grows each year. But can anyone really be blamed for wanting just a lit tle more when the wines are so spellbinding with an abili ty to just take you straight to your happy place?
Thank you to Vinrosen for arranging the first of the two trips plus Sigurd Müller, Laudrup Vin, Allez Allez, Philipson Wine for helping with the second.
New vat room Domaine Leflaive
Lad os lige genopfriske Grand Cru fra Alsace: Der er 51 AOC Alsace Grand Cru (den sidste var Kaefferkopf, der fik sin Grand Cru i 2007).
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Indtil nu har kun ”de ædle druer”: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewurztraminer måttet anvendes til Grand Cru, men fra årgang 2022 vil man altså også kunne få “Alsace Grand Cru Hengst Pinot Noir” og “Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr Pinot Noir”
Så skete det endelig!
Som Frankrigs nordligste vinområde er Alsace kendt for sine elegante hvidvine, men også – og i højere og højere grad – for sine rødvine (10% af arealet), og nu kan to Grand Cru marker fra årgang 2022 altså også skrive Grand Cru Pinot Noir på etiketten.
Fra de første skridt blev taget har det taget omkring 20 år at opnå betegnelsen Grand Cru for Pinot Noir på disse marker.
Grand Cru Hengst
Pinot Noir må nu få betegnelsen AOC Alsace Grand Cru på to Grand Cru marker: Kirchberg de Barr og Hengst (Wintzenheim).
Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr
HISTORISK BEGIVENHED I ALSACE - PINOT NOIR KAN NU FÅ BETEGNELSEN AOC ALSACE GRAND CRU
48 point93Vinous+ Cannubi 2017 point92Vinous Cannubi 2018 Wine Advocate point93 Cannubi 2017 Nye årgange til super priser. Skal Francesco Rinaldi være på dit vinkort? Øst: Kontakt Jesper Søgaard på tlf. 29700015 eller jes@jmk.dk Vest: Kontakt Christian Kollerup Rahbek på tlf. 29700017 eller ckr@jmk.dk Priorparken 845 • 2605 Brøndby • Tlf. 70231211 • info@jmk.dk • ordre@jmk.dk • www.jmk.dk point95Vinous Brunate 2017 point95Vinous Brunate 2018 point95DecanterCannubi 2017 point92DecanterBrunate 2017 Nyhedisortiment 2018“Rocchedell'Annunziata”
Kigger vi mod mere klassiske vinhuse i Alsace, kan man ikke undgå at blive en lille smule andægtig, når man kigger nærmere på Alsace-huset Léon Beyer i Eugisheim. Her er tradition, kvalitet og anerkendelse tre fundamentale styrker, og vinhuset er indbegrebet af franskmændenes ubestridelige evne til at få hele verden overbevist om, at de kan noget ganske særligt.
ALSACE
EKSKLUSIVT HOS LØGISMOSE
Riesling Les Elements, BIO, 2019 Domaine Bott Geyl Gewürztraminer Les Elements, BIO, 2018 Domaine Bott Geyl
LÉON BEYER & DOMAINE BOTT GEYL
BOTT frem. Det er den simple opskrift på terroir og topklasse vin fra Alsace.
GEYL Intet andet sted i (vin)verdenen findes en så mangfoldig geologisk formation som Alsace. Det giver biodynamiske Bott Geyl i Beblenheim god mulighed for at lave en bred vifte af udtryk med Riesling som markernes stemme. Både i mark og kælderen lader Bott Geyl de enkelte markers særegne karakter træde
49 LØGISMOSE VIN · NORDRE TOLDBOD 16 · 1259 KØBENHAVN K · LØGISMOSE.DK varer.udsolgteogtrykfejlforforbeholdtagesDer Kontakt vores salgsafdeling for Horeca-prisliste eller yderligere information på erhverv@loegismose.dk TOBIAS EMIL OLSEN Salg tool@loegismose.dkMobil:Sjælland27202479 REMI SAHNER Salg Fyn og Jylland Mobil: 5197 resa@loegismose.dk9681 KLARA LYBY LANGE Salg klli@loegismose.dkMobil:Sjælland28349951 JAN KAISER Salg jaka@loegismose.dkMobil:Sjælland28878785
LÉON BEYER
Riesling Pfersigberg Grand Cru d’Eguisheim,Comtes2013LéonBeyer
Pinot Gris Les Classiques, 2017 Léon Beyer
Skærsøgaard’s mousserende vin DONS har været kendt gennem 20 år og har opnået mere end 100 præmieringer.
Danmarks eneste kvalitetsvin er den mousserende vin DONS (BOB)
Den nærproducerede vin forespørges af kunder til det Nordiske Køkken –senest ved 10 Nordiske Michelin restauranters festmiddag, Stars du Nord, i Stockholm.
Rekvirer engrosliste for direkte levering på salg@dansk-vin.dk Giv kunderne mulighed for at opleve den danske certificerede kvalitetsvin.
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Danmarks eneste kvalitetsvin er den mousserende vin DONS (BOB)
- første autoriserede vingård i Danmark www.dansk-vin.dk
Danmarks første Beskyttede Oprindelses Betegnelse: DONS (BOB) fra vinområde Dons - EU’s nordligste appellation. BOB svarer til AOC eller DOC.
Danmarks første Beskyttede Oprindelses Betegnelse: DONS (BOB) fra vinområde Dons - EU’s nordligste appellation. BOB svarer til AOC eller DOC.
Skærsøgaard’s mousserende vin DONS har været kendt gennem 20 år og har opnået mere end 100 præmieringer.
Den nærproducerede vin forespørges af kunder til det Nordiske Køkken –senest ved 10 Nordiske Michelin restauranters festmiddag, Stars du Nord, i Stockholm.
- første autoriserede vingård i Danmark www.dansk-vin.dk
Rekvirer engrosliste for direkte levering på salg@dansk-vin.dk Giv kunderne mulighed for at opleve den danske certificerede kvalitetsvin.
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could observe one big wave in the wine or several smaller
of the level of wine poured in the glass to the dia meter of the glass
“The gesture isn’t just for appearances,” says study co-author Martino Reclari, who studies fluid dynamics at Lausanne in Switzerland. Scientists and enthusiasts ali ke have long known that the swirling motion aerates the wine, mixing in oxygen, en hancing its flavor. Upon an evening of wine drinking, Re clari and colleagues decided to apply their scientific know ledge to once and for all tack le the physics of this oenologi
•ripples:Theratio
Step one of learning how to drink wine has got to be the inevitable swirl! Sometimes as a sommelier you even catch yourself swirling your water – that is how much of a second nature it becomes once you start. When you suddenly find yourself in company of not-so-frequent-wine-drinkers, it dawns on you it is in fact a skill you acquire as you observe them perhaps sloshing around the wine rather than creating a smooth movement, even if you try to help them master the technique. Believe it or not – a team of wine-drinking researchers were curious enough of that exact difference to make it a new study that reveals the physics behind.
THE TRINITY
cal routine: The team filled up small cylinders in various si zes with different volumes of a cheap merlot, then set them spinning. To achieve unifor mity across the samples, the researchers employed gyrating machines, commonly used to mix liquids precisely in labs.
• The ratio of the diameter of the glass to the width of the circular shaking
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The swirl at a glance
LET THE COMMENCESTUDY
“Unlike the flavor of a perfe ctly aged pinot,” Reclari says, “the factors at play aren’t overly complicated.” In fact, three simple factors seemed to determine whether the team
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BY: NINA JENSEN AS A PARAPHRASE OF AN ARTICLE BY DANIEL STRAIN
• The ratio of the forces ac ting on the wine. Those forces affecting the wine were the centrifugal force pushing the liquid to the outside of the
“The team’s formula is useful for more than just helping a wine taster impress his fri ends,” Reclari says. “When growing bacterial cultures, biologists often mix cells in with nutrients in one big jar, then swirl, much like an afici
onado over the latest vintage. That rotation distributes the bacterial food throughout the slurry and also removes ex cess carbon dioxide. Knowing just how liquids slosh in such jars may help lab technicians optimize their growing met hods,” he adds.
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THESUSTAININGRIGHTFORCE
He and colleagues also landed on another discovery which is hitting close to home for most sommeliers: How we,
a notch—for instance, by pouring a bit more wine into a glass or shaking that glass in tighter circles—the resear chers mastered the art of unu sual wine waves. Curiously, if the researchers kept all three ratios identical, they began to spot the same waves forming repeatedly, even in cylinders of very different sizes. ”If you have a very small glass or a very big glass and you put in the same parameters, you will have exactly the same shape of the wave,” Reclari says.
these factors
when overly enthusiastic swirl and manage to splash staining either ourselves or our sur roundings. It works just like an ocean crest; wine waves begin to break, turning frothy, if they’re moving too quick ly. The breaking acceleration for a merlot is about 40% of the force of gravity, the team concluded, or nearly 4 meters per second – corresponding to a light breeze and 6,6 times slower than the speed of the wind during a hurricane. That acceleration, in turn, is depen dent on the volume of wine in the glass, the force of shaking, and other factors.
The team’s analysis is ”simp le” but does ”make sen se,” says Vladimir Ajaev, an applied mathematician at Southern Methodist Univer sity in Dallas, Texas. And the study illustrates well how se emingly every day physics, such as the swirling of a glass of wine, might help scientists and engineers develop better lab tools: ”At first it might seem like a matter of curiosi ty,” he says. ”But then it turns out there are some specific ap plications.”
Bydown.tweaking
54 glass and the gravitational force shoving the liquid back
55 FØRES EKSKLUSIVT AF SIGURD MÜLLER VINHANDEL A/S 98 18 50 99 • vin@smv.dk • www.smv.dk
Royal Tokaji was founded in 1990 with the aim of bringing the wines of Tokaj back to international fame. We are at the forefront of Tokaji’s renaissance. The old winemaking traditions, the beneficial climate and the diversity of wine styles make Tokaj a great wine producing region. While inspired by the incomparable history of this unique region we are committed to a continual quest for improvement. We are proud that our wines from the tiny village of Mád have gained so much international recognition.
Royal KKwine a5.indd 1 2021. 01. 20. 13:02 55 55
56 –Danmarks største vinskole • Vil du undervises af Danmarks bedste og mest erfarne lærerteam? • Vil du få struktur på din vinviden? • Vil du lære at smage sikkert og systematisk? • Vil du tage en uddannelse med eget undervisningsmateriale? • Vil du have papir på dine kundskaber? • Vil du supplere uddannelsen med en international vineksamen? SÅ ER SVARET VINAKADEMIET Næste uddannelse begynder: København 12. september 2022 TagWSET-uddannelsersommelieruddannelsen og få WSET Level 3 in Wines med for kun 750 kr. Desuden tilbyder vi WSET-uddannelser på engelsk: WSET Level 2 in Wines 3 dage + eksamen: 6.500 kr. WSET Level 3 in Wines 5 dage + eksamen: 11.500 kr. Al information og tilmeldning på: www.vinakademiet.dk –Fordi viden gør en forskel
Masciarelli
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC Riserva Marina Cvetic, en af Masciarelli’s bestsellere, satte en ny ikonisk standard for Montepulciano og blev hædret som én af verdens Top 100 Wines af magasinet Wine Spectator.
Masciarell i fører syv vin-serier: Masciarelli Classic, Villa Gemma, Marina Cvetić, Castello di Semivicoli, Gianni Masciarelli, Linea og ISKRA. Den samlede produktion når mere end 2,5 millioner flasker årligt. Masciarelli’s danske importør er Strandgaarden Wine & Spirits A/S.
medfamilieforetagendeVinøststoreambitioner
Masciarelli har på få årtier manifesteret sig som en af Abruzzos vigtigste vinproducenter, hvad angår størrelse såvel som renommé. Da Gianni Masciarelli i 1979 etablerede sin vingård, var drømmen at bevise, at Abruzzo kunne producere vine af samme høje kvalitet som i de mere anerkendte regioner Piemonte og Toscana. Efter hans død overtog hustruen, Marina Cvetic, driften af vinhuset. Under hendes kyndige instrukser er Masciarelli vokset til en essentiel del af den italienske vinscene og er blevet cementeret som et af de absolutte tophuse i Abruzzo.
Mor og datter-holdet lægger vægt på at fremme kvinders trivsel og muligheder i vinbranchen. Ud af vinhusets 80 medarbejdere er det mere end 54 procent af medarbejderne, som tiltales signora eller signorina. Med en innovativ tilgang tilsat stor respekt for traditioner og terroir er Masciarelli blevet et symbol på den kvalitetsmæssige revolution i Abruzzo. Tenute Agricole , San Martino
Bag enhver vin står en kvinde - eller to....
sulla Marrucina Chieti @masciarelli_winerywww.masciarelli.it
Vinproduktion i Italien er et klassisk mandeerhverv, men hos Masciarelli er kvinderne i overtal.
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Marina Cvetić driver vingården Masciarelli Tenute Agricole i tæt parløb med datteren Miriam Lee Masciarelli, som har ansvaret for vinmarkerne og kælderarbejdet.
26 25 82 50 info@nybaekgrafisk.dk
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