18 minute read
BORDEAUX COLLECTION
Château Cos d'Estournel 1961
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Saint-Estèphe, Deuxième Grand Cru Classé, RP:92, 1base neck, 8top shoulder, 3high to mid shoulder, 12bsl, 4ltl, 2lwrl, 1spc, 12lcc, 12double layer capsule 有別於周遭歐式古堡的莊嚴氣魄或是古典情調,走入Château Cos d'Estournel 酒莊彷彿來到一個神祕國度。帶著東方色彩,酒莊內的鐘樓、雕像及以大象做 為酒莊標幟,其靈感來自於19世紀時其優異的酒質受到王公貴族喜愛,聲名遠 播至印度,並獲得了『Maharajah of Saint-Estèphe』稱號。但酒莊不僅僅以其 充滿異國風情的建築聞名。在一向給人單寧堅硬苦澀印象的Saint-Estèphe產 區中,Château Cos d'Estournel仍保留著酒液不容忽視的力道,卻以圓潤豐 厚,有如貴族般的優雅特質來呈現,穩坐Saint-Estèphe酒莊之首。1961年份有 著堅實的酒體,散發出雪松、東方辛香料和水果蛋糕的芬芳,香氣撲鼻。是一款 口感濃郁、滋味豐富的迷人美酒。
Château Lynch-Bages 1961
Pauillac, Cinquièmes Grand Cru Classé, RP:95, 2high shoulder, 1bsl, 2wasl, 2wrl, 1stl, 2lcc Lynch-Bages創立於1728年,幾經轉手後,於1930年代納入Cazes家族事業 版圖,雖然僅位居五級,Lynch-Bages卻在Jean-Charles的領軍下,大膽延 遲採收時間,打造出濃郁豐美的黑果氣息與充滿力道的酒體,更在接下來 的三代傳承下將Lynch-Bages推向國際舞台,成為波爾多最知名的酒莊之 一。1961年份濃郁的香氣散發出誘人的魅力,水果乾、香草、菸草的甜美調 性,緊接而來的是熟透的水果、如果醬般的濃厚口感,這款頂級波爾多的層次 感無與倫比。
Château Lynch-Bages 1982
Pauillac, Cinquièmes Grand Cru Classé, RP:93, 6base neck, 4bsl, 2lbsl, 1ltl, 1wrl, 1lwrl, 1stl, 1lcc, 1lcrc, 3lsc
Château Lynch-Bages 1989
Pauillac, Cinquièmes Grand Cru Classé, WA:95, 4within neck, 2base neck, 6lbsl, 2lscl, 3lsc, 1lcrc
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1996
Pauillac, Deuxième Grand Cru Classé, WA:96, 12within neck
Château Pontet-Canet 2009
Pauillac, Cinquièmes Grand Cru Classé, WA:100, 12within neck With opulent scents of crème de cassis, baked plums and Black Forest cake plus suggestions of Chinese five spice, potpourri, oolong tea and menthol. Full-bodied, rich, spicy and oh-so-decadent in the mouth, it has a fantastically velvety frame and seamless freshness, finishing very long.
Château Mouton-Rothschild 位於波爾多 Médoc 的 Pauillac 村,於 1973 年破格從二級酒莊升格成為波爾多一級酒莊。 被羅勃帕克喻為「超過一百分,突破味覺極限的酒款」, Mouton 的旗艦酒款除了有著熱情奔放的風格、高大的骨 架、與圓潤豐腴的質感外,自 1945 年起,每個年份都與藝 術家合作酒標的設計,獨特的藝術酒標述說只屬於當年份 的故事,珍藏佳釀的同時亦是視覺的無上饗宴。
Château Mouton Rothschild 1945
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:100, top shoulder, bsl, wasl, lstl, spc, cuc, tc 1945年的Château Mouton-Rothschild無疑代表著其傳奇的滋味,Wine Spectator 與Robert Parker雙雙給予100分的評價。卓越繽紛的異國香料,極熟的黑水 果、咖啡、菸草、摩卡咖啡,亞洲香料等,單寧柔軟,口感豐厚綿密且層層環繞 舌尖,久久不散;而1945年除了是波爾多葡萄酒二十世紀的偉大年份之一,更 是二次世界大戰的尾聲。受到同盟國(WWII Allies)勝利的觸動,Baron Philippe de Rothschild決定用該年度的酒標來紀念重獲和平的喜悅,他委託給後來逐 漸在戲劇界展露頭角的Philippe Jullian,以英國首相邱吉爾在二戰期間鼓舞自 由力量的V字手勢-"V for Victory"為創作核心,打造了這個具有重要歷史意義 的藝術酒標,有著世紀不朽的珍藏價值。
Château Mouton Rothschild 1954
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, high to mid shoulder, bsl, htl, hll, hfl, tal, hstl
Château Mouton Rothschild 1955
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:97, high to mid shoulder, bsl, wisl, ltl, stl, lcc, Nicolas stamp The nose offers up that explosive Mouton perfume of mint, leather, cassis, black olives, and lead pencil. In the mouth, there is stunning concentration, magnificent extraction of fruit, and plenty of tannin in the long finish.
Château Mouton Rothschild 1995
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:95, 2base neck, 2lwrl
It reveals an opaque purple color, and reluctant aromas of cassis, truffles, coffee, licorice, and spice. In the mouth, the wine is "great stuff," with superb density, a full-bodied personality, rich mid-palate, and a layered, profound finish that lasts for 40+ seconds.
Château Mouton Rothschild 2003
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:91, 6within neck, 6lwrl
Château Mouton Rothschild 2006
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:96, 6within neck, loose OWC As expected, the nose has quite brilliant delineation with blackberry, graphite, here an almost cold slate-like scent. The palate is harmonious with the carefully judged acidity, fine-grain tannin and immense detail on the finish.
Château Mouton Rothschild 2008
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:95, 6within neck, 1ltl The palate is beautifully balanced, very detailed and extremely fresh. This conveys so much energy and animation before reverting towards a more classic and structured, pencil lead finish.
Château Mouton Rothschild 2010
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:98, 6within neck
Full-bodied, the palate is solidly constructed of super firm, ripe, grainy tannins and lively acidity, framing the densely packed black fruit, finishing on a persistent mineral note.
Le Petit Mouton 2010
Pauillac, WA:93, 12within neck, 3lscl, second wine of Château Mouton Rothschild The 2010 Le Petit Mouton gives up notes of sweaty leather, cherry cough syrup and baked blackcurrants with suggestions of damp soil, cedar chest and menthol. Full-bodied, the palate is decadently fruited with a firm, grainy frame and loads of freshness, finishing earthy.
Lafite is a tenor; Latour a bass. Lafite is a lyric; Latour an epic. Lafite is a dance; Latour a parade. -Hugh Johnson
Château Latour 在五大酒莊裡有著較為雄厚的酒風,堅實的酒體結構展現了如高塔般霸氣的格局,往往需要數十年的時間去柔化其豐厚的單寧、使 其飽滿的酒體能完整地展現酒款的活力與複雜的變化。陽剛的特質讓英國酒評家 Hugh Johnson 曾說 : 若形容 Lafite 是首抒情詩,Latour 便是氣 勢磅礡的史詩 ; 若形容 Lafite 是輕快的舞曲,Latour 便是場熱鬧盛大的遊行。Château Latour 一直是五大酒莊中最勇於革新的酒莊,不僅領先在 1960 年代開始引進可控制溫度與發酵進度的不鏽鋼槽,其後再挪回木桶中進行 20 個月到兩年的時間進行桶中熟成;更從 2012 年開始正式退出波 爾多預購,堅持在酒款最適飲的年份才對外販售。
Château Latour 1949
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:98, mid shoulder, hbsl, ltl, hstl, cuc, lcif, lsc This bottle was again a riveting, opulently-textured drinking experience. Its spectacularly perfumed bouquet consists of truffles, black tea, soy, minerals, and copious sweet prune, coffee-infused, black currant fruit. Sweet on the attack, with a rare opulence, a voluptuous texture, full body, terrific freshness, and a chewy, fleshy, succulent finish, this has always been great stuff. This bottle was no exception.
Château Latour 1953
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, 1high shoulder, 2mid-shoulder, 2bsl, 1lbsl, 1ltl, 2stl, 1cc, 2lcif, 2sticker residue on label
Château Latour 1996
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:99, 12base neck, release in 2014 The 1996 Latour is medium to deep garnet in color with a profound earthy, meaty, gamey nose with hints of blueberry preserves, crème de cassis and pencil shavings. The palate is full-bodied, concentrated and packed with muscular fruit, with a firm, ripe, grainy backbone and epically long finish. Showing much more youthfully than the 2000 tasted on the same day and still possessing bags of youthful fruit in the midpalate, this beauty is going to go on and on!
Château Latour 2000
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:97, sealed OWC
Château Latour 1982
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:100, 1within neck, 1base neck, 2lbsl, US import The 1982 Latour has a medium garnet-brick color and then pow!—it belts out powerful notes of star anise, dried roses, sandalwood and new leather with a core of kirsch, blackberry tart, dried mulberries and blackcurrant pastilles. Full-bodied, rich and spicy with bags of fruit and tons of savory fireworks, it finishes with epic persistence.
Château Latour 1993
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:90, 2base neck, 2lsc
Château Latour 2000
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:97, sealed OWC
Château Latour 2003
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:100, sealed OWC It has a medium to deep garnet-purple color, then wow—it explodes from the glass with bombastic black and blue fruits, followed up by meat, wood smoke, sandalwood and Indian spice accents with underlying floral wafts. The palate is full, rich, velvety, seductive and very long on the finish.
Château Latour 1994
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:94, 12within neck, 2lscl
Château Latour 2003
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:100, sealed OWC
Château Latour 2004
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:95, 12within neck
Château Latour 2005
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:98+, 6within neck, 6lbsl, multiple sources
Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it opens with provocative floral scents of roses and violets over a core of fresh blackcurrants, chocolatecovered cherries and black raspberries with hints of fertile loam, unsmoked cigars and black tea. Medium to full-bodied, firm, grainy and packed with muscular fruit, it has an epically long, savory finish sparked by floral notes.
Les Forts de Latour 2009
Pauillac, WA:95, second wine of Château Latour, sealed OWC
Les Forts de Latour 2010
Pauillac, WA:97, second wine of Château Latour, sealed OWC
Château Lafite Rothschild 1945
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Class, mid-shoulder, hbsl, wasl, lcrc
20 世紀初世界動盪不安,許多酒莊受到戰爭的影響,造成葡萄酒的發展 低潮,而Château Lafite Rothschild也不例外。受到二次世界大戰戰火牽 連,Lafite酒莊曾遭遇德軍佔領,酒窖被大肆掠奪,陷入前所未有的危機。而 在戰爭結束後,Rothschild男爵扛起復興酒莊的責任,歷經嚴峻考驗,致力於 重建酒莊的昔日光景。1945年份就是這個艱難時期的代表作品之一,別具歷 史意義。
Château Lafite Rothschild 1986
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:98, 1within neck, 1base neck, 1lcrc, 2lsc
The palate is extremely well balanced with a crystalline quality, filigree tannin, perfectly pitched acidity, a quintessential Lafite-Rothschild with a sense of energy and focus undiminished by time.
Château Lafite Rothschild 1994
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:90, within neck, lwc
Château Lafite Rothschild 2002
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:94, 3within neck
This is a medium-weight, quintessentially elegant style of Lafite with notes of lead pencil shavings/graphite along with black currants, plums, and crushed rocks/mineral. Wonderfully pure, dense, with a deep ruby/purple color and loads of fruit, definition, and a long finish, this is a brilliant, elegant Lafite Rothschild that builds incrementally in the mouth and has more power and density than it initially seems.
Château Lafite Rothschild 2005
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:96, 2within neck, 1lcrc, 2lsc The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, to wit, a sophisticated Pauillac that priorities elegance and poise over intensity of fruit—in keeping with Lafite Rothschild's style. You come away with the sense that it will take its time and decline, giving away a great deal in its primacy, even if it is still more approachable than the 2005 Latour for example.
Château Lafite Rothschild 2006
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:95, 12base neck
The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and a keen line of acidity. It is certainly very well balanced with graphite-tinged black fruit, but whereas Mouton-Rothschild possesses that peacock's tail, Lafite remains linear.
Château Lafite Rothschild 2007
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:94, within neck, lscl, lsc
Château Palmer 位於波爾多左岸 Margaux 村,與 Château Margaux 毗鄰。有別於同村其他酒莊,Palmer 鍾情於 Merlot 的使用,高比例的 Merlot 反映在其旗艦酒款圓潤而柔美的酒體;特殊的長時間浸皮製程, 使酒色濃郁,單寧豐富;此外,酒莊還加入些許 Petit Verdot,為酒款 帶來神秘的辛香料風情。絲綢般柔美纏綿的質感、花果馥郁優雅的香氣, 與強勁的單寧架構帶來微妙的反差感,是 Château Palmer 令人迷醉的 獨特魅力。 Château Margaux 創建於 1590 年,早在 17 世紀,就被列為一級酒莊,
比 1855 年的官方分級制度提早了兩個世紀,是法國國宴的指定用酒。
以 Cabernet Sauvignon 為主要釀製品種的 Château Margaux,其酒
Château Palmer 1961
Margaux, Troisième Grand Cru Classé, WA:100, within neck, lsc, US import
1961年份是酒莊的傳奇年份,優異的酒質將Château Palmer推向頂級酒莊行 列,成為藏家們珍藏的目標,近二十年來價格水漲船高,魅力不亞於五大酒莊。
Château Palmer 2000
Margaux, Troisième Grand Cru Classé, WA:94, 12base neck
Château Palmer 2005
Margaux, Troisième Grand Cru Classé, WA:97, 6within neck, 4lscl Search deeper and you discover veins of graphite that impart a Pauillac-like allure. The palate is medium-bodied and intense, but it is not overwhelming, a Margaux that is galvanized with a firm backbone thereby ensuring this will age over the long term.
Château Margaux 1986
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:97, 10base neck, 2top shoulder, 12lbsl, 5ltl, 1pc, 1spc, 12lcc, 5lcrc, 2sc, 10lsc
The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a more robust Margaux as you would expect given the vintage, clearly with firm backbone, more straight-laced than the 1985 or 1989. Yet there is wonderful delineation and focus here. If you seek strictness and classicism in a wine, then this is the place to come, plus there is superb mineralité and tension on the ferrous finish.
Château Margaux 1986
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:97, base neck, bsl, wisl, stl, lsc
Château Margaux 1995
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:95, 4within neck, 4bsl, 1wisl, 2lscl, 1lstl, 4lsc
Château Margaux 2003
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:93, 10within neck, 2base neck, 1lbsl, 4lscl, OWC無上蓋
Château Margaux 2004
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:94, sealed OWC
Château Margaux 2005
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:98+, 5within neck, 3lbsl, 2lscl The first-growth 2005 Château Margaux (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot), a lavish fragrance of blackcurrants, velvety new saddle leather, spring flowers and spice soars from the glass. The wood is already totally concealed beneath the cascade of fruit in this medium to full-bodied, pure and majestic wine. This concentrated, dense, but nevertheless strikingly elegant, multi-layered wine has a finish of 45+ seconds. It builds incrementally to a crescendo and finale.
Château Margaux 2009
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:98, sealed OWC The 2009 Château Margaux is deep garnet in color and features wonderfully fragrant minted cassis, lilacs, Black Forest cake and oolong tea scents with touches of pencil shavings and dusty soil. Medium to full-bodied, it has a firm, grainy frame with lovely freshness lifting the perfumed fruit to a very long, mineral-laced finish.
有別於其他四大酒莊,Haut-Brion 位於 Pessac-Léognan 的 Graves 產區,是 1855 年波爾多酒莊分級制度中,歷史最為悠久的一級酒莊。 Haut-Brion 的紅葡萄酒氣質清新雋逸,越陳越香,有著雪松、木炭、 菸草與 Graves 區特殊的礦石氣息、以及黑色莓果濃郁而迷人的果香, 複雜華麗而神祕,酒質細膩卻帶著不容忽視的力道。
Château Haut-Brion 1949
Pessac-Léognan, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:91, high to mid shoulder, hbsl, wasl, hstl, lcc, lsos The 1949 Haut-Brion (tasted 12/95) revealed some of the textbook cigar, ashtray, tobacco-scented notes, as well as scents of roasted herbs and ripe fruit. The color was a medium garnet with considerable rust at the edge. This medium-bodied, round, sweet, and soft wine is past its prime, although it remains exceptional. Drink it up.
Château Haut-Brion 1990
Pessac-Léognan, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:98, 2bc2cm, 1bc3.5cm, 3lbsl, 2lwasl, 3lscl, 1ltl, 3lfl, 1lstl, US label
The 1990 put on weight after bottling, and is currently rich, full-bodied, opulent, even flamboyant by Haut Brion's standards. It is an incredible expression of a noble terroir in a top vintage.
Château Haut-Brion 1994
Pessac-Léognan, Premier Grand Cru Classé, RP:92, 10bc1.5cm, 1bc1.5cm, 1bc3cm The color is deep plum/ruby with a bit of lightening at the edge. Notes of compost, truffle, earth, spice box, dried herbs, and licorice compete with sweet black cherry and currant fruit. The wine is medium-bodied, with a relatively plump, chewy feel to it. It is certainly one of the top half dozen or so wines of the vintage.
Château Haut-Brion 2000
Pessac-Léognan, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:99+, 1bc1cm, 1bc1.5cm, 2lbsl, 1wasl, 2lscl, 1lwrl, 2fl, 2lstl
The palate displays heavenly balance, pitch-perfect acidity, perhaps spicier than previous bottles that I have tasted, and what depth and dimension in this outstanding wine. That hint of graphite on the finish is a cheeky nod to Pauillac, as if to thumb its nose at the First Growths, because alongside Château Latour, almost by stealth, the Haut-Brion is one of the greatest Bordeaux in this millennial year.
Château Haut-Brion 2006
Pessac-Léognan, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:96, sealed OWC The 2006 Château Haut-Brion has a more ostentatious bouquet than the comparatively reserved La Mission: quite feisty blackberry, briary, kirsch and red plum scents, hints of leather and sage tucked just underneath. This is a bouquet determined to make an impression! The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well-judged acidity, a gentle build to a concentrated, earthy, truffle-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth.
Château Haut-Brion 2009
Pessac-Léognan, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:100, 6bc1.5cm, 6lbsl Full-bodied, taut and tightly wound in the mouth, the palate delivers mouth-coating black fruit and mineral layers with a very firm frame of ripe, grainy tannins, finishing long and earthy.
Dillon 家族接手,僅一路之隔且有著相同的釀酒團隊,兩個莊園在土
質上的差別使產出的酒大不相同。La Mission Haut-Brion 單寧立
Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1990
Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, WA:96, 3base neck, 3bsl, 3wrl, US label The palate is beautifully balanced with great depth but is still a little grainy in texture, and I noticed how it evolved almost a Musigny-like personality with time in the glass.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2009
Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, WA:100, 6within neck The deep garnet colored 2009 La Mission Haut-Brion absolutely sings of warm red and black currants, chocolate-covered cherries, liquid licorice, sassafras and espresso with hint of lilacs, pencil shavings and truffles. Full-bodied, rich, bold and oh-so-decadent in the mouth, the palate is completely packed with black fruit preserves and exotic spice layers, framed by wonderfully velvety tannins and seamless freshness, finishing epically long.
Bordeaux Duclot Collection 2013 Château Lafite Rothschild 2013
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:90, within neck
Château Mouton Rothschild 2013
Pauillac, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:92, within neck
Château Margaux 2013
Margaux, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:91, within neck
Château Haut-Brion 2013
Pessac-Léognan, Premier Grand Cru Classé, WA:92, bc1cm
Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2013
Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, WA:91, within neck
Pétrus 2013
Pomerol, WA:91, within neck
Château Cheval Blanc 2013
Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A, WA:92, within neck
Château d'Yquem 2013
Sauternes, Premier Cru Supérieur Classé, WA:(95 - 97), within neck 1 bt
1 bt
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1 bt
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Château d'Yquem Ygrec 2004
Bordeaux, 6base neck, dry white wine
與 Pomerol 毗鄰的白馬堡 Château Cheval Blanc,在 1955 年列 級酒莊評比中,獲得最高等級的 Premier Grand Cru Classé A。酒莊
Château Cheval Blanc 2004
Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A, WA:92, within neck, lbsl, lscl
Château Cheval Blanc 2006
Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A, WA:97, 6base neck The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It feels wonderfully structured and comes with an insistent grip that coats the mouth. This is backward and almost surly, but you have to stand back and admire the precision and arching structure on the mineral-rich finish.
Château Cheval Blanc 2007
Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A, WA:92, 6base neck, 1sealed OWC The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin on the entry. This is a "stocky" Cheval Blanc, with the Cabernet Franc component really forming the backbone to this wine, imparting bell pepper and spice box notes towards the grippy finish. I think it might have peaked a couple of years ago, so drink now and over the next 15 years.
Château Angélus 2009
Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A, WA:99, 6within neck, 5lbsl Blended of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, the deep garnet colored 2009 Angélus sings of blackberry preserves, warm black cherries, stewed plums and dried herbs with hints of Chinese five spice, fragrant earth, truffles and new leather. Full, rich, spicy and decadent in the mouth, it has a plush, velvety texture and well-knit freshness, finishing very long with tons of spicy layers.