ISSUE THREE / FALL / TWO THOUSAND SEVENTEEN
THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE THE NOSTALGIA ISSUE
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Letter Editor from the
T
he fashion industry is constantly looking forward; to the next season, the next trend, the next hot designer. We often are so busy trying to come up with something new or something different that we forget about the past. We forget how inspirational certain styles from years before can be. The past influences us in ways we may not even recognize until it’s pointed out; like how you wind up loving that purse your mom has from the 80’s. For that reason, it should be celebrated.
That’s what the team at RAW decided to do for this issue, celebrate styles and looks from the 70’s to the 00’s. We showcase students whose personal style reflects each century on page 9, and talk about the best beauty looks from those decades as well in “The best makeup for your sign” on page 35. We also celebrate women and how far we have come in feeling self liberated on page 53. I had my own nostalgic experience this semester. I lived in Florence, Italy and took classes at a university here. Now of course it wasn’t nostalgic for the simple fact of being in a familiar place again, because I had never been to any European country. It was that feeling of being somewhere new, experiencing something for the first time with all the excitement and curiosity you possess that made me nostalgic. I felt as if I was a kid again, finding myself, figuring out what I like, what I don’t, and trying new things. It has been the most incredible thing I’ve ever done. We are often stripped of that wonderful feeling as we get older; classes get more stressful, your job takes away your free time. It becomes easier to feel mediocre, and harder to go about each day with excitement. I want to challenge all of you reading to find something that is nostalgic to you this season, and let it fill you with all the joy it had in the past. Also be on the lookout for stories on Italian fashion and my travels on our website launching in January 2018! Jordan Moorhead Editor-in-Chief
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Letter from the Senior Editor I knew without a doubt that I would have some big shoes to fill with our editor-inchief and the OG, Jordan, studying abroad this semester! Nevertheless, it has truly been a blessing putting this magazine together with the most amazing and multitalented staff . From the ideation process, to the final product we’re presenting to you now, it was a long but worthwhile experience. And the increasing support we get each year makes all our hard work even more rewarding. In our first fall issue ever, we are presenting to you NOSTALGIA. We want you to get a glimpse of iconic looks from the 1970s to 2000s. Fashion always repeats itself, so we see a lot of these styles recycle over the decades. Check out how the style of students right here at CMU reflect each decade in our Student Spotlight Style story, on page 9. If you love the 70s, check out, “Not Tonight,” on page 29. Are the 90s more of your vibe? Flip on over to, “Go Back to the 90s,” on page 3. You cannot discuss fashion without the social
issues that come with it. Fashion can be used to express yourself and live in your truth. On the other hand, it can be used negatively and spark deeper conversations on societal injustices. Both aspects have been seen over the decades. If you want to know more about women using clothing as a form of self-liberation, check out, “We Are: SELF-LIBERATED,” on page 53. If you want to see how cultural appropriation is occurring in the industry, read, “The Appropriation of the ‘Ghetto girl,’” on page 45. In addition, the issue includes several lifestyle stories, discussing not only the lifestyles of the decades, but the lifestyles of our CMU students as well. With each issue, RAW continues to get better and better. We hope you enjoy this third issue!
Rachael Thomas Senior Editor
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TABLE OF CONTENTS Style Go Back to the 90’s .........................................................3 Student Spotlight Style ...................................................9 Lux ....................................................................................14 Celebrity Style: Rihanna ...............................................21 Bad Kids .........................................................................25 Not Tonight ....................................................................29 Beauty Which Decade of Makeup Best Suits your Sign? .......35 Drop the Skincare Routine: Winter Edition .............40
LifeStyle The Appropriation of the ‘Ghetto Girl’ ........................45 Pop Your Cherry ............................................................50 We Are: SELF-LIBERATED .......................................53 Love: A Concept .............................................................57 #T-B-T and L-U-V ..........................................................67
STYLE STYLE STYLE STYLE STYLE STYLE STYLE STYLE STYLE
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GO BACK TO THE 90’s
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Photographed and Styled by Binge Yan Models: Torey Ware, Rachel Fritti, Josephine Norris
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By Leslie Graver Photographed by Brandon York Edited by Jordan Moorhead Models: Kate Montgomery, Nick Sullivan, Shayne Mann, Alyssa Kohler
time I saw her in “Love Story,” there were at least three outfits that I tried to recreate. I’m also pretty sure I was watching her in that film when I realized that wearing a bra is overrated. Ali’s style in the 70s is definitely the look that I go for, through my rekindled love of turtlenecks and scarves as belts. Where do you look to find clothes that fit into this style? Honestly, Goodwill and Salvation Army are where I find most of my favorite clothes. Although, I have gotten a few things from my Mom and Dad’s closet as well. Usually when I thrift something, I either manipulate it to look like whatever I had envisioned when buying it, or because I just bought a size XL when I’m a Small. If you had to describe the 1970s in one word, what would it be? Vibrant. Do you see any aspects of this decade’s style coming back currently into mainstream fashion? If so, what are they? Definitely, fashion is always going in circles. Past styles are becoming popular again, especially the 70s. Eyewear is a big thing in today’s fashion; larger and rounder frames are coming back. I’ve also seen bell-bottoms
STUDENT SPOTLIGHT
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“Fashion is evolutionary not revolutionary.”
tyles are constantly being recycled and reinvented decade after decade. Here, we take a look at four CMU students who take this saying to heart, each reflecting a specific decade in their own personal style. Kate Montgomery - 1970s What would you say is the most iconic style of the 1970s? Kate Montgomery: I think that most people would consider the high-waisted bell-bottom pants to be the most iconic style of the 1970s. But for me, it’s the colors and textiles that are most iconic. Mixing and matching
bright colors and textiles was huge back then; yellow, pink and orange are traditionally colors that people think of when considering 70s fashion. When I think of my favorite iconic womenswear look of the 1970s, I do still think of the bell-bottoms, but they’re definitely a dark-wash denim, matched with a colorful striped sweater and a scarf tied around the neck. Who/what is your style muse for the decade? Is there anyone you follow today who embodies this look? I would say Ali Macgraw is by far my style muse for the 70s. I remember the first
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all over recently, as well as corduroy, colorful stripes, all kinds of denim, turtlenecks… the list goes on. Just walk into Forever 21, you’ll see 70s inspired clothes all over the place. Nick Sullivan - 1980s What would you say is the most iconic style of the 1980s? Nick Sullivan: Acid wash denim Who/what is your style muse for the decade? Is there anyone you follow today who embodies this look? My style muse for this decade is David Bowie. He had such a distinctive style with an emphasis on statement pieces. In terms of today, Luca Fersko, embodies this look and inspires my personal style. Where do you look to find clothes that fit into this style? I mostly shop at thrift stores, but also find clothing at stores such as Asos. Recently, I >>Continue on page 11
11 // Raw Magazine >>Continued from page 10 have discovered the app Depop, which has a lot of vintage gems. If you had to describe the 1980s in one word, what would it be? Eccentric. Do you see any aspects of this decade’s style coming back currently into mainstream fashion? If so, what are they? I constantly see aspects of the 1980’s being recycled in today’s fashion. High-waisted jeans are a major trend that have been popular for a while and are still in style for the foreseeable future. Describe your favorite outfit that fits into this decade’s style. A simple outfit featuring a plain black t-shirt tucked into high-waisted jeans with a leather jacket and a pair of sneakers. Shayne Mann - 1990s What would you say is the most iconic style of the 1990s? Shayne Mann: I would say the smiley faces and embroidered jeans. I know when I was alive in the 90s I had a shit ton of Joe Boxer, which all had smiley faces on it. I never had embroidered jeans, but my sister and I would decorate our own jeans by drawing on them and adding patches. For me, the 90s was all about adding your own flair to clothing pieces.” Who/what is your style muse for the decade? Is there anyone you follow today who embodies this look? I would have to say the movie “10 Things I Hate About You,” because it show-
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cased several different aesthetics of the decade. Depending on my mood for the day, I will switch between Kat Stratford - the grunge, tomboy style of the decade - and her little sister Bianca, who embodied the “girly and glittery 90s.” As for celebrities around today, there’s not really a single person who I follow that inspires me. I like to find bits and pieces on websites like Pinterest and put them together into complete looks. Where do you look to find clothes that fit into this style? Dolls Kill is my all-time favorite website to find alternative looks. I also like UNIF and Hot Topic. I sometimes find inexpensive pieces at fast fashion stores like Forever 21. If you had to describe the 1990s in one word, what would it be? Contradictory. There are many parts to the 90s that are all very different. There was the hip-hop culture, the grunge culture, and the girly and sparkly styles that were all popular during the decade. Do you see any aspects of this decade’s style coming back currently into main-
stream fashion? If so, what are they? I feel like the 90s have come back hard recently into mainstream fashion. Just a few examples would be Dr. Martens, mom jeans, Tommy Hilfiger striped shirts, and chunky black sandals. Currently, I am seeing a lot of Lisa Frank coming back, which definitely reminds me of myself in the 90s. Alyssa Kohler - 2000s What would you say is the most iconic style of the 2000s? Alyssa Kohler: Juicy Couture velour sweatsuits! Who/what is your style muse for the decade? Is there anyone you follow today who embodies this look? Some people I follow today that embody this look are beauty bloggers, Sydney Carlson and Amanda Steele! They have such a unique style and incorporate 2000s styles into some of their everyday looks. Where do you look to find clothes that fit
into this style? Lots of stores! For example, ASOS, I Am Gia, and Dolls Kill for example. If you had to describe the 2000s in one word, what would it be? Free-spirited. I feel like the 2000s was all about expressing yourself through your style and interests. From fashion-experimenting to the music you listen to. Looking back, everyone rocked to their own true styles. Nowadays, people seem to have lost their authenticity. Do you see any aspects of this decade’s style coming back currently into mainstream fashion? If so, what are they? Of course! A major trend that came back into mainstream fashion is the Juicy sweatsuit. Vetements even did a collab with Juicy Couture and they released a sweatsuit. After it was seen on celebs, such as Kylie Jenner, Juicy sweatsuits were back on trend. I can admit to buying a Juicy hoodie after seeing it on Kylie. Describe your favorite outfit that fits into this decade’s style. Denim on denim. This look features one of my favorite pair of pants from Zara. They are tight and have an extreme flare at the bottom! I paired them with a longline denim jacket and tight bodysuit.
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LUX Photographed by Nick Sullivan • Model: Suzannah Koop
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CELEBRITY SPOTLIGHT: RIHANNA Written and Styled by Makaia Smith Photographed by Binge Yan Models: Chardé Goins and Emily Crombez
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ihanna is a style icon and can turn any runway garment into a “look” appreciated by the masses. There are plenty of people who either try or would like recreate her outfits, especially younger generations. The average college student cannot afford Balenciaga, Balmain, and Dolce & Gabbana. This article will explore affordable clothing items that curate outfits similar to Rihanna’s.
Courtesy Photo: Splash News A Lesson from the Queen of Satin This past year, Rihanna has been seen wearing a lot of satin slips, especially with a jacket or satin robe. The satin look can be finished off with a pair of heels to dress it up or a pair of sneakers to dress it down. Pictured here is Emily, she chose to dress up this look for special occasions (i.e. campus banquets, award ceremonies).
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Courtesy Photo: Raymond Hall/GC Images Cozy and Cool Rih is no joke when it comes to robes, dusters, and trenches. Here, Rihanna is in a matching pant and robe ensemble. This look can be emulated by pairing a satin duster or robe with a pair of pants that cinch at the waist. Our model, Chardé, can be seen in a harem pant and duster.
Courtesy Photo: X17.online Courtesy Photo: Splash News The Comfy Tee Here, RiRi can be seen here in a classic tee with a corseted waist. A comfy classic with an edge. The cinched waist takes the tee from basic to absolutely beautiful. This would be perfect to wear to class, it’s both comfortable and stylish. Emily is pictured here in a cinched t-shirt dress from River Island.
Denim on Denim on Denim Rihanna has been known for wearing both a denim top and bottom to create an overall blue jean look in the past. The trick is to make sure the washes match and to break it up by accessorizing with different colors. She chose a cheetah print clutch and red lip to keep herself from getting lost in all that blue. Emily and Chardé can be seen here wearing matching denim, black bralettes, and heels. This could easily be a look for class with a pair of sneakers.
Thigh High Boots and Bodysuits Here’s a look that embodies two of the most popular clothing items out there, thigh high boots and bodysuits. To make Rihanna’s look more wearable, Chardé is pictured here in a bodysuit, black jeans, and a pair of thigh high boots. With this look, all eyes would be on you at any party. Courtesy Photo: Splash News
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BAD KIDS Photographed and Styled by Josh Barnhart
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Photographed by Nick Sullivan Styled by Nick Sullivan, Rachael Thomas and Kaitlyn Lauer Model: Mariah Bahr
NOT TONIGHT
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BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY BEAUTY
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WHICH DECADE OF MAKEUP BEST SUITS YOUR SIGN?
Written by Katie Lenninger Photographed by Nick Sullivan Makeup done by Chardé Goins Models: Kaitlyn Lauer and Chardé Goins
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akeup is progressive and unprecedented all at the same time; looks have been revisited and transformed from the past to cultivate a broad spectrum of products and trends that are showcased on faces everywhere. Fall 2017 is bringing a fresh perspective to decades’ old trends, but it can be treacherous finding a look that best suits you and your personality. Here are our suggestions for past-inspired fall makeup looks tailored to your astrological sign. Earth Signs: Taurus, Virgo, and Capricorn, The Romantic Look of the 1970s
It’s exactly as you would think it would be; Earth signs are the most down-to-earth out of the others. They are known for being grounded and dependable. Different from Fire and Air signs, they are not known to be adventurous. Rather, they avoid big risks and would much prefer a sure thing. Channeling
a warm, natural look from the 70s would be best suited for these comfortable signs. Dark mauve lipsticks, big natural lashes, and the occasional cat eye are all flowy looks best suited for Earth signs.
Kaitlyn is wearing eyelashes from e.l.f. Natural Lash Kit, $2; Revlon ColorStay Liquid Eyeliner, $5; and Kiss New York I Envy mascara, $10 Suggested Products: Ultra Matte Lip in Top 8, Colourpop, $6 Tarteiest Pro Cruelty-Free Lashes in Goddess, tarte, $12 Air Signs: Gemini, Libra, and Aquarius, The Full-Frontal Look of the 1980s Like their fire counterparts, Air signs can be free-spirited and adventurous. But they also have a very complex side to them. They are notorious for excellent communication, but sometimes they are so lost in their minds they can be the hardest to read. That’s why the full-faced >>Continued on page 38
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>>Continued from page 36 makeup look of the 80s is the best suited for these vibrant and sometimes mysterious souls. Bushy brows, fuchsia lips, heavy blush, and eye-popping eye shadow are all strong 80s trends that symbolize Air Sign’s full-of-life image. Suggested Products: Peach My Cheeks Melting Powder Blush in Peach Berry, Too Faced, $30 Subculture Eyeshadow Palette, Anastasia, $42
on her eyebrows, $3; Maybelline FIT! Me Foundation, $6; LA Girl Pro Concealer, $5; and highlighter from the Profusion Studio Highlight Palette, $10 Suggested Products: Smoky Eye Baton in Etincelle or Fumme Brun, Surratt Beauty, $35 Everlasting Lip Liner in Bloodmilk, Kat Von D, $18
Water Signs: Cancer, Scorpio, and Pisces, The Soulful Look of the 1990s Water signs like to wear their heart on their sleeve. Like oceans and lakes, they run deep and feel more intensely than most. They are sensitive and intuitive, and you can always tell what kind of day they are having before you even ask. With that being said, the dynamic 90s makeup looks fit their versatile personalities. Vibrant, sultry looks can be channeled through this decade’s style of deeply lined lips and berry shades, while moodier, grungier days can be represented by the classic 90s brown lipsticks, smokey shadows, and hair tendrils. Chardé is wearing e.l.f. Cream Eyeliner
Fire Signs: Aries, Leo, and Sagittarius, The Loud Look of the 2000s Fire signs are notorious for living up to their name; they’re spontaneous, lively, adventurous, and they grab attention anywhere they go. Which is why the spunky, bouncy look of the 2000s is the perfect match for these bubbly personalities. This decade is marked by metallic eyeshadows, glossy lips, purple shadows, and colorful eyeliners. Suggested Products: Galaxy Eyeshadow Palette, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, $59 Heavy Metal Glitter Eyeliner in Pyro, Urban Decay, $20
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DROP THE SKINCARE ROUTINE WINTER EDITION
Written by India Ambrose • Photographed by Binge Yan
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kincare is essential in the colder months and we know that it gets beyond freezing in Mt. Pleasant. Whether you have oily or combination skin, skincare is essential for keeping your largest organ happy. A few students on campus decided to drop their skincare routines and give their winter go-to products to help keep your skin poppin. These simple routines are easy to follow and adapt for any college student on a budget. Mariah Bahr, Senior Skin Type: Combination Her Routine: “I wash my face with the Mia brush once in the morning and once at night with cleanser. Morning and Night I apply 2 creams I was prescribed by my
dermatologist and a moisturizing lotion. Once a week I apply a face mask depending on my skin. I usually do them on Sundays. The clay mask I leave on for 5-10 mins and the moisturizing mask I leave on for 15 mins. I cleanse my face with my gentle cleanser after both masks, whichever one I decide to do that week.” Products She Uses: Galderma face wash and lotion; Cetaphil gentle cleanser and moisturizer; Prescribed face creams; Greenstone clindamycin phosphate topical lotion; Allergan Aczone Gel 7.5%; Health and Beauty Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay and SPAS criptions Moisturizing Spa Treatment Mask with Shea Butter and Coconut Oil.
Samantha Cole, Sophomore Skin Type: Dry Her Routine: “I use Skin FX cleanser morning and night. For the morning after my cleanser I use vitamin E oil and a moisturizer. For the night, after cleansing I use coconut oil and vitamin E oil used together. If I have a pimple or something, I use a cream to dry it up. My skin gets random dry patches, so when I get those I use organic shea butter that’s infused with essential oils that help get rid of it.” Products She Uses: SKIN FX; Shea Moisture organic coconut butter; Hollywood Beauty vitamin E oil; Fashion Fair combination moisturizer, Homemade moisturizer by India’s Father.
Roderic Martez, Junior Skin Type: Combination His Routine: First I wet my face. Secondly, I apply Cetaphil Daily gentle face wash lather and rinse. Third I do the same with Clearasil rapid action face scrub. And lastly I exfoliate with St. Ives apricot scrub.” Products He Uses: Cetaphil Daily gentle face wash; Clearasil rapid action face scrub; St. Ives apricot scrub. Timothy Young, Junior Skin type: Dry His Routine: “I use Cetaphil twice a day (once in the morning and once before bed), Cetaphil moisturizer or just regular lotion to moisturize skin.” Products He Uses: Cetaphil Daily gentle face wash and Jergens Ultra Healing lotion.
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LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE
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THE APPROPRIATION OF THE ‘GHETTO GIRL’ Written by India Ambrose and Makaia Smith • Photographed by Binge Yan
Issue Three // 46 We all know about the unspoken, yet very visible, phenomenon that is cultural appropriation. The topic alone makes people want to shy away and change the subject to something safer. According to the Oxford Reference, cultural appropriation is “ the taking over of creative or artistic forms, themes, or practices by one cultural group from another.” This is very evident in the fashion industry. More specifically, there is evidence of the appropriation of the carefree black girl, or the “ghetto girl,” and this has shifted the paradigm. The term ‘ghetto’ is used to describe neighborhoods of those with a lower income that usually includes people of color. As stated by the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, the term ‘ghetto’ was coined for the Jewish quarter in Venice, Italy. This continued on to World War II where Jews lived in horrid conditions under Hitler’s rule. Now adapted to describe where black people live today, over time, the term began to engulf the lifestyle and mannerisms of the people living there, including their fashion sense. According to an article in Galore magazine, the current ‘ghetto’ is used to describe actions and mannerisms. One could describe it as flashy glamour without the wealth. For women, it can often represent being hypersexualized. You
know the look: provocative clothing adorned with large gold hoop earrings with ‘Babygirl’ etched inside, colorful plaits, grills, baby hairs “fleeked” to the max, and long nails with wild designs. These looks were prominent in the 90s and carried on. Think Lil’ Kim in 1996, when her album “Hard Core” was released. She wore a fur coat with a barely-there leopard twopiece bikini, posing like a boss woman. After this, her style took over the fashion industry, causing an array of top designers, such as Marc Jacobs and Donatella Versace, to fight to style her. This moment in history helped enforce the term “ghetto fabulous,” because Lil’ Kim had the greatest mixture of streetwear and luxury elements. The line between black culture and pop culture is blurred, causing the meaning of appropriation to be skewed. Though black fashion has always coexisted with the mainstream fashion world, the mainstream non-people of color have begun to try incorporating black culture aesthetics into their own looks. Though some of these designers intended to just appreciate the culture, the overall message is lost. The main issue is that designers who appropriate the culture are not utilizing actual black women as models, nor are black women receiving the profits made from their looks. Not only that, but the women who started these looks and >>Continued on page 47
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>>Continued from page 46
carried them on are not receiving the credit that they deserve. They are not getting paid nor credited for the styles they pioneered. They are being pushed into the dark while these designers spend time in the spotlight and get the profit from their ideas. As Sauers said, race has been manipulated in the fashion world, leaving many with a sense of disrespect. Others have voiced that what individuals may view as appropriation could otherwise be seen as appreciation. The key difference between the two is respect. Do the designers have a goal to show respect and give credit to these “ghetto” girls that they are modeling fashions after? This question is the key to the debate over appropriation versus appreciation. From what the fashion industry has shown to the public in recent years, it appears to be the former. Everyone knows the infamous Marc Jacobs and his impact on the fashion world. A few seasons ago, he decided to put faux dreadlocks on models for his Spring 2017 collection. According to an article by Taylor Bryant, dreadlocks were deeply rooted in the Rastafarian culture of Jamaica. Dreadlocks were grown in honor of Samson and also to go against the societal structure. Jacobs took these
without the understanding that dreads were a cultural aspect that he had no business appropriating. This sparked outrage from many because he put the dreads on white women. Not only that, but he worsened the issue by claiming that it was okay because black women could straighten their hair. He ignited more anger in those who were already against his act to begin with. Then we get to the matter of baby hairs. DKNY held a fashion show where white models had their hair styled in what the brand referred to as “urban fabulous” baby hairs. Let’s be real, urban is a roundabout way of saying black. Baby hairs slicked down with pomade and gel are the black girl’s pride and joy. The fact that it is being taken without demonstration on actual black women is alarming and unfair. Philipp Plein, another fashion designer, utilized grills in his Milan fashion show in 2016. Grills were a staple starting in the 1970s, popping up in black neighborhoods in New York until they started to evolve into something hip-hop artists wore for status, as found in an article by Lauren Schwartzberg. Well in Plein’s show, a white female model wore them with a chain - and only a chain -that left little to the imagination around
her breasts and a dog collar. Once again, a white designer taking black aesthetics and using them without recognition of black culture. Gucci took the unique stylings of black designer Daniel Day aka, “Dapper Dan,” and utilized them for their own benefit without giving props to him, as stated in an article found in Teen Vogue by Faith Cummings. Dan made a Louis Vuitton monogrammed coat with balloon sleeves that Gucci copied with few differences. Dan created the wave that Gucci later hopped on, giving another example of the appropriation of urban styles. Grills, along with baby hairs and many other aspects, were always considered “hood” and “unworthy.” With its usage on the runway, the meaning has changed to individuals who take the initiative of appropriating. Celebrities are also guilty of taking black culture and using it for their benefit. A prime example of a celebrity who appropriates culture is Miley Cyrus. She wore dreads, grills and participated in the rap community until she felt her career could no longer rely on this schtick. Kylie Jenner has once been seen wearing cornrows on her Snapchat and dreads in a Teen Vogue shoot. The problem with this is the fact that these celebrities are profiting
off of black culture while not raising awareness of black issues. If you cannot respect and understand where your style options are coming from, the appropriation is furthered and you are a part of the problem. As people are beginning to understand the cultural appropriation taking place in the fashion industry, it’s now time to work on some ways to combat it. It’s not just about the clothes, it’s about the possibility of an entire culture being erased or forgotten because of the lack of recognition that culture deserves. It’s about the “ghetto” girl not getting the recognition. It’s easy to be inspired by a concept, create a concept on your own, and tell your audience what inspired you to create what you did. If more people did this, the fashion industry could minimize cultural appropriation immensely.
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POP YOUR CHERRY How one project on campus tackles current social issues, selfexpression, diversity and love, “one cherry at a time.” Written by Rachael Thomas • Photographed by Nick Sullivan
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o, not that type of cherry. This cherry represents an individual’s true self. A person’s story. The one thing that makes a person. This self-identity is exactly what The Cherry Project aims to promote. Established in 2016, The Cherry Project is a organization that strives to promote positivity and awareness through the stories of each student involved. Founded by CMU junior and BCA major, Autumn Pinkley, this project explores not only the individual, but also the current issues of today’s society. Ever since its beginnings, The Cherry Project has become involved with a variety of other student organizations at the university. Pinkley, along with co-founder and CMU junior, Ke’Hira Monroe, and assistant, photographer and CMU junior, Tiffany Nguyen, have taken the university by storm with this project. The Cherry Project is all about creating a comfortable, safe environment and platform for students to express themselves and share their stories. Where did the name, “The Cherry Project,” come from? Autumn Pinkley: I did a photoshoot with my best friend like two summers ago, and I got “The Cherry” name because her bodysuit was red and like I said, it had “Cherry” on it, and that’s where I got the red aspect and “The Cherry” name from. In social media posts for the project, you’ve used terms such as, “your inner cherry,” and “popping your cherry.” What does that mean and what the cherry symbolize in this concept? Sort of like, the stuff people are holding inside. So, you’re finally letting go, you’re doing something for the first time. You’re releasing something. Because you know, “popping your cherry,” how people use that term…*laughs*. We’re letting you finally >>Continued on page 51
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>>Continued from page 50 let go and express yourself. That’s a good question, nobody’s asked me that yet. If you could come up with a quick tagline for TCP that really embodies the meaning of the project, what would that be and why? “Spreading positivity and awareness. It’s all about love.” You spread awareness by targeting issues that society throws at us. And you’re spreading positivity because people show so much love every time they read a story. People uplifting one another, that’s what it’s really all about. What would you say are the most important themes or issues that TCP addresses? “Black Lives Matter” for sure is one. That’s where I got the idea [The Cherry Project] from too, because I saw issues like that, and I was like, “Okay, I want to talk about this.” Racial issues. Right now, we’re focusing on diversity. Not just BLM, but every culture, every race. Everything going on with Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals in the government gave me the idea for that. We talk about weight, sexuality, anything relevant. Could you explain the process of the project (From connecting with the individual who reached out to TCP, to the final delivery of the individual’s story)? The way people reach out to us is most likely they saw a story on Twitter, or their friend told them about it. We make it easy for people to contact us, we do it through DM [direct messaging], because we’re all social media people. On Twitter or Instagram, others message us on Facebook. I’ve had people ask me on Snapchat, and I also do get emails. You have multiple ways to get in contact with us. We then set up an interview. I tell them to wear red to the shoot, and I take a few photos. It doesn’t take more than 15 minutes honestly. I tell them to send me a story, it can either be based off the questions I asked you, or you can tell me anything. I’ll edit the pictures, and then I just post.
What would you say the energy is like when interviewing these individuals? The energy at the photoshoots? It’s really chill, because I want the people to feel comfortable talking to me. So when I would go with Ke’Hira, she would talk to them and get them ready for the camera, especially if they’re camera-shy. We’re not scary, we’re pretty chill. Like I said, it doesn’t take more than 15 minutes. We just get straight to it. What are the most rewarding and challenging parts of TCP? The rewarding part is just all the love that we get back. Because when I made the social media pages, I didn’t think it was that big of a deal. But on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook, we got a lot of followers really fast. So when you see stuff like that and how many supporters you have, it’s pretty cool. The most challenging part would be time.
We’re all in college, we all have busy schedules. It’s harder to get the shoots done when you want. But that’s really the only thing. What are some collaborations TCP has done on campus? We were with [the RSO] Black Lives Matter, and we did a rally after Trump was elected. The Cherry Project passed out flowers with these little notes on them, and that was pretty cool. RSOs do reach out to us and want to do stuff with us. What are some ways you would encourage students who may be scared or unsure about being involved with TCP? Some people really share some deep stuff that has happened to them, and some people share what they love about themselves and why they love their life. When people say, “I don’t have a story to tell…” Just tell me why you’re happy. Tell me why you love yourself. With the diversity
part we’re doing right now, I feel like it’s really easy. I just ask people why they think diversity is important, why they like to rep their culture. Anyone can do anything, I just tell them to do whatever. What are some short- and long-term goals you have for TCP? We’re trying to become an RSO, so I guess I’d say that would be short term. For long term, I kind of want to see how big it gets, especially when I’m graduating. If we’re an RSO, just how people will carry it on. If I want to choose to leave it on campus for someone to take over. Just to see how big I can expand it. To learn more about The Cherry Project and ways to get involved: Instagram and Twitter: @cherryproject16 Facebook: The Cherry Project
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WE ARE:
SELF-LIBERATED The style of women from the past and present as means of expression and freedom.
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elf-liberation: freedom from the oppressive structures of a society and even one’s ego, as defined by Ananta Kumar Giri, a professor at the Madras Institute of Developmental Studies. Women have been liberating themselves for decades now. From the bra burnings of the 1970s to the increase of women in male-dominated occupations, women have been breaking the constraints of society, especially through fashion and beauty. There are women who display their individuality by defying social norms. For Muslim women, it could be wearing their hijab with pride, despite society making them out as subordinates to men or terrorists. It could be plus-size women embracing their extra curves, even when the media promotes women of smaller sizes. It could also be women who aren’t ashamed to wear less clothing, despite so-
ciety considering women “slutty” for doing so. Women are expected to dress modestly for every occasion. If we do not, assumptions are made about us, like: “We’re asking for it,” (in terms of sexual assault) or “We have no self-respect.” First and foremost, a hijab is not just a clothing item, or a statement piece. It is part of a religion. It is a way of life. It is a symbol of a woman’s faith. There are rules to wearing the hijab. When doing so, a
Written by Makaia Smith • Photographed by Kaitlyn Lauer
woman must wear clothes that cover their head, neck, arms, and legs. In other words, they should wear long sleeves with collars that don’t expose their chest and neck, long skirts or pants, and their headscarves. Erum Tariq-Munir, a graduate in Sociology from Iowa State University, states that the hijab can be empowering, even though American society makes it out that it “...[restricts Muslim women] from leading an independent life.” By Muslim women being prideful in their faith and unashamed to display it, they show the world that the hijab is not what society makes it out to be. Halima Abdi, a multicultural advisor for Troutman Hall, and a hijabi woman, describes her liberation to be faith-based. She finds confidence in herself by not caring what everyone else says. When asking her what her hijab means to her in terms of self-liberation, she responds with, “It’s my identity...It makes me feel good to wake
up in the morning and to be able to put on [my hijab] everyday. I get to make that conscious decision because it’s for me and my people.” And to other hijabi women who feel they lack confidence or cannot be themselves due to negative stereotyping in America, Abdi advises that “... they shouldn’t base their decision on how someone else makes them feel. We are put on this Earth to praise Allah. It doesn’t matter if you impress your friends or the media. Beauty is based on the person and not their looks anyway. Please yourself…” With these ideologies in mind, Abdi has the same sense of pride as Muslim and women’s activist, Shirin Ebadi. According to Fazeela Siddiqui, writer for the Huffington Post, Ebadi was the first Muslim woman to receive a Nobel Peace Prize in 2003. With Ebadi’s statement, “It is not religion that binds women, but the selective dictates of those who wish them >>Continued on page 55
55 // Raw Magazine >>Continued from page 54 cloistered,” it is evident that Abdi and Ebadi want the same thing for Muslim women: acceptance and progress. While the hijab can empower women by symbolizing their respect for their religion, plus-size women are liberated by loving their body shape, despite what the media displays. With a surplus of models being smaller than the average American woman, there is a lack of diversity in body shape and size. For those who feel comfortable in a variety of styles no matter what they look like, they break the restraints by wearing them and looking great. Bobie-Shynne Hare, a model for the Organization for Black Unity’s annual fashion show, argues that “There should definitely be more...body types.” She also says, “I’ve always been the ‘big girl’ that knew how to dress, but there were always people telling me that some of the things I was wearing should be on a smaller girl.” After asking her what she has to say to those who struggle with finding confidence in their own bodies, she stated that “You just have to be the best version of you possible. Honestly, I hype myself up. You have to stop comparing yourself to other people too. You are your own person and you have to embrace yourself.” One woman in society who did embrace herself was Tocarra Jones, the first plus-size contestant on the third cycle of “America’s Next Top Model”. She paved the way for more plus-size
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women to be comfortable in their own skin. Even though she didn’t win that cycle, she signed a modeling contract with the modeling agency, Wilhelmina Models in New York. Although there is a need for more plus-size models in the fashion industry, the need for outing women as “sluts” because of how they are dressed should to come to an end. With conservative men or women judging those who are comfortable wearing whatever they want, it’s hard for a lot of people to be comfortable in their bodies or to dress as they please. In the 1990s, Madonna shined a spotlight on women’s sexuality through fashion. Tiffany Webber-Hanchett, writer for the blog, Love to Know, stated that Madonna worked with Jean Paul Gaultier - who was known for “fetishistic fashions” - for her Blonde Ambition tour. It is said that this tour began the trend of “underwear as outerwear,” which is wearing lingerie as a casual outfit, rather than just wearing
it as underwear. This trend has become a norm in women’s fashion, even though less than a couple of decades ago, lingerie was viewed as taboo and a garment no one outside of the bedroom should see a woman in. A woman was supposed to feel ashamed if she was caught parading around in her undergarments. Now, lace bodysuits are worn with everyday clothing items, satin slips are worn as dresses, and bralettes are no longer a garment worn underneath a shirt. Elayne Swafford, a CMU fashion merchandising major, believes that “... it’s no one’s business when it comes to how someone else is dressed. I think fashion is a freedom of expression. I like
to dress based on how I am feeling [and] ...I’m okay with wearing whatever I want, whenever I want.” To those who slut shame, Elayne has a few choice words for them: “...if you’re a guy, mind your business. You don’t know what it’s like to be in a woman’s body...If you’re a woman and you are slut shaming other women, then shame on you. You’re probably being judged by someone else too. You’re [also] enabling men to continue to judge women as a whole.” With all of these different types of women in mind, it can be said that they are the same in that their differences empower them. They are unashamed to be themselves no matter what standards society tries to push onto them. Wearing a hijab, being a plus size women, or wearing less clothing, are not just concepts. Through these women in history and through these featured CMU students, we learn that these women celebrate self-liberation by just being themselves. Fearlessly and undoubtedly themselves.
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Love: A Concept. Story Ideation by Rachael Thomas • Photographed by Binge Yan
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Amani Corley, Senior
“Love recognizes no barriers. It jumps hurdles, leaps fences, penetrates walls to arrive at its destination full of hope.�
Maya Angelou
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“Well my heart’s been racing, chasing after you… You’re the sweetest dream my incredible you… You’re the star so bright, you’re eyes the lightest blue… I can’t help but stare at you…” “Alone Together” Daley featuring Marsha Ambrosius
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“So we’re left alone, No one left to call upon. Be still now, my broken bones, As I travel on, just hold me close my darling…” “I. Flight of the Navigator” Childish Gambino
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#TBT L-U-V AND
Story by Rachael Thomas
T
hese next few pages are dedicated to the students! In honor of our nostalgia theme, we had students on campus handwrite a favorite memory of theirs, or something a little inspiring to uplift your fellow students! Read the messages, share a laugh, pass it on, and reflect!
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Editor in Chief JORDAN MOORHEAD Senior Editor and Writer RACHAEL THOMAS Creative Director KAITLYN LAUER Assistant Creative Director and Photographer NICK SULLIVAN Photo Director and Photographer BINGE YAN Graphic Design Lead ANNAH HORAK Writers
Photographers Co-Social Media Director Event Manager
MAKAIA SMITH LESLIE GRAVER KATIE LENNINGER INDIA AMBROSE JOSH BARNHART BRANDON YORK CRYSTAL THOMPSON ASHLYN DELANEY KILEY TIPPMAN GABRIELLE BILLS INDIA AMBROSE
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THE Nost AL GIA ISSUE INSTAGRAM: @RAWMAGCMU