Hampton tall dresser part 1
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Inspired by: room and board lasalle dresser Approximate Building Cost: $200-350 will vary by region Skill level: intermediate
Hampton tall dresser part 1
Wood:
Tape Measure
4 - 3/4" Plywood
Square
2 - 1/2” plyxood
Sander
2 - 1/4” plyxood
Drill Saw Miter saw—optional Kreg Jig -Optional recommended
37 lf* - 1/2 hardwood 37 lf* - 3/4 Trim 54 lf* - 1/4 1 1/2" (style
x 3/4 solid x 3/4" Square x 1 1/8 to preference)
4 - 1x2 at 10'
1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws 2 1/2" and 1 1/4” xood screws
3 - 1x3 at 8'
1 1/4" Finish Nails
6 - 1w4 at 10’
10 single or 20 double drawer handles
1 - 1x4 at 8'
Wood Glue, wood filler
1 - 1w4 at 6’
Sandpaper
1 - 2x3 at 6'
Finishing Supplies
1 - 2x4 at 8' 1 - 2x4 at 6' Www.thedesignconfidential.com
* - linear feet
2 - 3/4" Ply at 57" x 20" (Base Top and Dresser Top) 3 - 3/4" Ply at 50 3/4" x 19 1/4" (Side and Middle Panels)2 20 - 3/4" Ply at 19 1/4" x 8 3/4" (Side/Middle Panel Inserts) 20 - 3/4" Ply at 18" x 7 3/4" (Drawer Sides) 10 - 3/4" Ply at 24 1/2" x 7 3/4" (Drawer Fronts) 10 - 3/4" Ply at 23 x 6 3/4" (Drawer Backs) 10 - 1/2" Ply at 23" x 18" (Drawer Bottoms) 10 - 1/2" Ply at 24 1/2" x 7 3/4" (Drawer False Fronts) 3 - 1/4" Ply at 55 3/4" x 16 11/12" (Back) 10 - 1/2" x 3/4" Solid Wood Trim at 19 1/4" (Runners) 20 - 1/2" x 3/4" Solid Wood Trim at 18" (Runner Tracks) 4 - 3/4" x 3/4" Trim at 19 1/4" (Cleats at the Top of the Side/Middle Panels) 2 - 3/4" x 3/4" Trim at 58 1/2" (Front Trim, for Base Top and Dresser Top) 4 - 3/4" x 3/4" Trim at 21 1/2" (Side Trim, for Base top and Dresser Top) 2 - 3/4" x 3/4" Square Trim at 24 3/4" (Bottom Rail of Face Frame) 2 - 3/4" x 3/4" Square Trim at 50 3/4" (Side Panel Trim toward Front)
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**20 - 1/4" x 1 1/8 or 1 1/2" The measurements will remain the same regardless if you are mitering (see drawer instructions) If you aren't mitering, please account for the difference in width. **20 - 1/4" x 1 1/2" Trim at 7 3/4" (Drawer Front Trim, Sides)** same as above 4 - 1x2 at 19 1/4" (Bottom Side/Middle Panel Insert) 10 - 1x2 at 24 3/4" (Rails of Face Frame) 2 - 1x2 at 50 3/4" (Side Panel Trim) 3 - 1x3 at 50 3/4" (Stiles, Face Frame) 2 - 1x3 at 24 3/4" (Top Rails, Face Frame) 4 - 1x3 at 17" (Top/Bottom Trim, Side Panels) 22 - 1 x 4 at 26 3/4" (Front and Back Drawer Supports) 22 - 1x4 at 12 1/4" (Sides of Drawer Supports) 6 - 2x3 at 4" (Legs) 4 - 2x4 at 15 3/4" (Side Support Cleats) 2 - 2x4 at 25 1/4" (Front, Support Cleat) 2 - 2x4 at 19 3/4" (Back, Support Cleats)
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Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. If you will need to disassemble this at any point don't use wood glue, however, using wood glue and clamps will help you keep your boards together while pre-drilling, countersinking, and fastening. Join Boards with a Pocket Hole system whenever possible, be sure to place your pocket holes out of site because they will leave quite a hole to fill. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines.
Steps:
Build the Base: Fasten the Plywood Insert to the Legs, with the edges of the legs and base insert flush. Then attach the trim to the insert. Miter the front corners if you like (not required) and the trim on the sides will end at the back, with no trim around the backside. **While you are on this step, you can build out the Dresser Top as well. It will be exactly the same as the Base Top, with plywood insert and trim on 3 sides, mitered in front the corners if you prefer.
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Build your Drawer Supports. The Bottom and Top Drawer Support will be different than the rest. The bottom will have support Cleats (Shown below in 2nd Image), and the top will not need a runner (not shown). Using your Pocket Hole system, attach the Sides of the supports to the front and back. You will set your system for 3/4" Stock and use 1 1/4" PHS. The cleats for the bottom support will be thicker than the actual support and are set back 3/4" from the sides (this will mean they overhang 3/4" in the center), but flush with the front and back. Fasten the cleats with 2" Screws from underneath. Attach The Runner with 1 1/4" Screws, be sure to countersink so there isn't any interference when it slides between the Runner Tracks. Drawer Support:
Bottom Drawer Support with Cleats:
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Construct 2 Side Panels and 1 Middle Panel. The Side panels will mirror each other, with Inserts on the inside only, and the Middle Panel will have inserts on both sides. The bottom insert is a 1x2, the top is a 3/4 x 3/4" Square Trim piece, the rest are plywood. Simply fasten them to the panels at the appropriate dimensions shown below. This form of construction is meant to mimic creating Dadoes , but will allow those of you who don't have a table saw, to build this as well. If you typically have your local lumber store cut your pieces for you, this version will save you a lot of time as well. Just glue and screw and you are on your way! Fasten with 1 1/4" Screws and fasten through the inserts and into the Side Panel from the insert side. This will hide your fasteners. Side Panel: (you need to make 2 of these...)
Middle Panel:
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Build your Drawers. Each drawer will be exactly the same size, and you will need to construct 10 of them! The Front and Sides will extend beyond the drawer bottom 1/2" to accommodate the drawer slides. We are using wooden drawer slides that you are building to remove some of the anxiety from building drawers. Construct your Drawers using Pocket Holes for 3/4" stock to build the box and 1" Screws from the inside the fasten the False Front to the Drawer Face. Use 1 1/4" Finish Nails to fasten your Trim. **If you prefer to use a metal drawer slides, you can do so by choosing an under mount slide with 1/2" clearance and will not need to adjust any of the drawer measurements. You will not need the runner on the Drawer Supports in the step above, your slides will come with their own runner. It is very important that you space the Runner Tracks 7/8" apart and placed 7/16" from the midpoint. This needs to be as precise as possible for proper alignment with the runner from the step above. You can test them prior to assembling your dresser and sand where necessary to ensure a smooth glide. I am recommending that you consider rounding the edges a bit to ensure they have proper paths to travel and that you consider purchasing hardwood for the Runner Pieces. Hardwood on hardwood tends to glide a bit more easily and retain it's strength and function for a longer period of time.
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Face.
1" Screws from the inside to fasten the False Front to the Drawer Use 1 1/4" Finish Nails to fasten your Trim.
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Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) set for 3/4" stock. Space the Rails 8" apart. The Top and Bottom Rails are flush with the top and bottom of the Stiles, and the Bottom Rail will be comprised of 2 pieces, a 1x2 and a 3/4" Square Trim Piece, you can attach them both to the Stiles and to each other if you like. I would probably just use finish nails to join together and Pocket Holes for attaching to the Stiles. If you have a table saw and you prefer to rip a 1x3 to get 2 1/4" width, rather than combine the 2 pieces, you are welcome to do that as well.
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We will begin our assembly in the next post. tall dresser part 2 for the instructions.
Visit Hampton
You will cut the remaining pieces that we will be using in Part 2 for this piece, and when we meet again, we will put this baby together!
Hampton tall dresser part 1
The Design Confidential
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Hampton tall dresser part 1
The Design Confidential
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