PRIME CONCIERGE
February, 2014
“There are no standards of taste in wine, cigars, poetry, prose, etc. Each man's own taste is the standard, and a majority vote cannot decide for him or in any slightest degree affect the supremacy of his own standard.” … Mark Twain
The Restaurant Report by Bob Bickell
Chef Justin Bogle at Avance; Han Dynasty in New York; Jon Taffer and the Bar Rescue response; Lacroix at the Rittenhouse; Le Virtu; Serpico; Zahav; and Vedge.
The “BAR RESCUE” Man Listens…
“95% of the public has no clue regarding the subject of wine”…. January Issue, 2014
A (January) comment from Phillip Silverstone (a serious wine-guy who doesn’t take his wine all that seriously).
“I read your interview with Jon Toffer of Bar Rescue. He suggested that 95% of the public has no idea when it comes to the subject of wine. He might be right, but I say so what? What is the percentage of people who really understand what chefs do? Must you be a connoisseur of food to actually understand what’s on your plate? I don’t think you have to be an expert to enjoy food or wine. I believe it’s more important to just enjoy the experience, and leave the real details to the experts (the other five percent).”
A reader response… “I have to disagree. Do not underestimate the sophistication of the modern eater and drinker. These days foodies and eaters in general are interested in the mechanics of cooking. Otherwise I am not sure how we can account for the cult of the TV chef and the vast sales of cook books. Demystification of the art of the chef- to quote the Naked one - has been crucial to the rise of the discerning diner and the home cooking revolution. Same with wine - not so much the mechanics of making it, but the understanding of the history and the wine & food matching”. Alan Alphonso Harding
And more from New York…
Chef Christopher Daly:
Everyone can benefit by educating themselves about great values and simple wines of excellent origin, and there are plenty out there. American wine has never been better... The best way to restart the educational part is getting back to basics, asking lots of questions and drinking lots of wines.
I always recommend Kevin Zraly’s “Windows on the World Wine” course as the ultimate refresher which will cover the back to basic education about even the down to earth “quaffing” wines which I would employ with most simple dinners I cook for myself and for company. Many a time I cooked dinner for Kevin’s wine classes when I was Executive Chef at The Edwardian Room at The Plaza and I can tell you I have met few people with his knowledge that can create such a down-to-earth passage into the world of wine, and his book is an easy read. Wine is my favorite pairing with most food, and I have written many lists to pair with my cooking in a few different restaurants here.
Not too long ago (at Bellew Restaurant) I wrote a list that received extremely favorable nods from The New York Times, Wine Spectator and a few other reviewers. The accolades were based on the composition, but more important was the New York Times mention of the fairness of pricing. I have always said you cannot eat percentages which means if you mark-up a wine by 2.5 to 3 times which is standard in a restaurant, selling 5 cases of that wine is much better on every front than marking it up by 5 times and selling 1 bottle. Great juice and great verticals are terrific to have on one hand, but my philosophy has always been that even great wine is meant to be drunk, not placed on high and celebrated.
If you are buying on price alone let’s hope there are some great choices, and when I wrote the aforementioned list, over one-third were under $35 Dollars. A very simple down-to-earth bottle, reasonably priced can do just as nicely as a Ridge Zinfandel, Howell Mountain - 1988.
Han Dynasty
Pete Wells is the current restaurant critic of the New York Times. He bashed the Manhattan branch of Philadelphia’s Han Dynasty. I have Han Dynasty on my “Recommended Philadelphia Restaurant List” so I must respond to his disappointing review. I’m not a fan of the New York Times, and I can do without the opinion of Mr. Wells.
My argument in this case is quite simple. If a restaurant is doing as much business as Han Dynasty in New York, should we conclude that all these people have to re-think their dining experience? Mr. Wells has now educated all these fans of Hans Dynasty, and obviously the many fans are badly mistaken. The food was not as good as you thought it was. The great experience that keeps you coming back has come to end. Mr. Wells has spoken, and I must immediately remove the restaurant in question from my recommended list. It reminds me of an Inquirer review of a very popular Cuban concept in Old City. The critic had to wait in line to enter the restaurant. The review was similar to that of the New York Times. All those people were having too much fun to realize the food was not as good as they thought it was. Give me a break.
Chef Justin Bogle – Avance
I recently met with Justin and I was impressed with the look of the restaurant and the chef himself. The man was extremely successful in New York, and he looks and sounds like the perfect choice to make this spot a significant winner. The timing of their opening (December, 13th) with the ongoing miserable January weather might explain a relatively slow start.
It’s interesting to note that several chefs have recently discovered great success in our area, and in so doing, Philadelphia has become an infinitely better restaurant destination. New spots such as Serpico; Vernick; The Farmer and the Fisherman; Noord, Will Byob; Fond and Laurel were all pleasant surprises. They hit the ground running, and they were all outstanding on a rather immediate basis. Avance made a very different introduction. For months, it was the restaurant that would occupy the spot of a Philadelphia legend. It was a big project to make it very different than the former Le Bec-Fin, and for good or for bad, Chef Perrier still owns the building, and his former partner (Chris Scarduzio) is part of the new management team.
The expectations are off the chart, and it will take some time to establish itself as a truly successful restaurant. I have always believed the key to success in this business is the man (or woman) in the kitchen. With this in mind, I’m betting on Avance, but more importantly, my real bet is on Chef Justin Bogle.
Lacroix at the Rittenhouse
A vital part of the Philadelphia upscale restaurant scene located in the prestigious Rittenhouse Hotel on beautiful Rittenhouse Square. Experience their progressive international cuisine from the young and talented Chef Jon Cichon.
210 West Rittenhouse Square
Chef Joe Cicala – Le Virtù
Chef Cicala spent time in Washington, DC and cooked at the highly respected Del Posto in New York City. Even before his arrival in Philadelphia Le Virtù was an outstanding restaurant, but one could easily suggest that he made it even better. 1927 East Passyunk Avenue
Chef Peter Serpico – Serpico…
The man from Momofuko in New York teamed-up with Stephen Starr and this dinner only spot on South Street has become a local favorite. The good chef is a James Beard Award winner, and the big winner is South Street. Could it possibly become another “Hippist Street in town? (the Orlons) 604 South Street
Zahav‌Chef Michael Solomonov
One of Philadelphia’s most talented chefs does everything from incredible Israeli cuisine to chicken and donuts. Zahav is a serious concept that has become one of the best (and most interesting) restaurants in Philadelphia. 237 St. James Place
Vedge - Chef Rich Landau and wife, Chef Kate Jacoby… They did what was thought to be the impossible… they found the way to make vegan food delicious. They also moved into a classic spot that was once the home of Fritz Blanc and Deux Cheminees. With more seats and more visibility, they brought Vedge into the national restaurant scene. It’s a great story, and Vedge has become a Philadelphia favorite with outstanding food, and even a great bar and cocktail lounge. 1221 Locust Street
From the folks at BIGBITE Philly‌
A Prosciutto di Parma Tasting & Craft Beer Pairing Event Brought to you by:
ONE chef will be crowned Philly’s King of Parma by an esteemed panel of judges while guests have the chance to win dinner for two at the winning chef’s restaurant by voting over social media. The chef who wins by popular vote will walk away with a leg of Prosciutto di Parma! Next page: View the Participating Chefs…
Joe Cicala, Le Virtu paired with Peroni Brewery. Mike Deganis, Osteria paired with Ama (Amarcord) Brewery. Luke Palladino, Luke Palladino Hospitality Group paired with Flying Fish Brewery. Mike Santoro, The Mildred paired with Yards Brewery. Jeremy Nolen, Brauhaus Schmitz paired with Ommegang Brewery. David Ansill, Bar Ferdinand paired with Stoudt Brewery. Doug Allen, Lacroix paired with Brooklyn Brewery. Mike Sultan, Street Food Philly paired with Otter Creek Brewery.
Cured & Crafted – Thursday, February 20, 2014 Power Plant Productions - 230 N. 2nd Street 6:30 – 9:00 pm Everything you have to know … http://bigbiteblog.wordpress.com/2950-2/
Barbara’s Kitchen… Home Cooking at its best!
The lady can flat-out cook. She could have been a notable restaurant chef, but that was not to be. She cooks for her family and friends, and she shares her favorite recipes with us. It’s a beautiful thing!
PEPPERY PENNE (Serves 4-6) 1 lb. Penne Pasta & 1½ lb. ground pork. 2 tbs olive oil (I prefer extra virgin). 8 oz jar of mushrooms sliced & drained. 7 cloves of garlic minced. 5 scallions, white & green separated and sliced. 24 ounces of sauce (I use Classicotomato & basil). 1 tbs crushed red pepper. Salt & black pepper to taste ¼ cup flat leaf parsley chopped ¼ cup grated parmesans cheese (plus more for serving)
DIRECTIONS‌ Cook pasta as directed on package. (Reserve 1 cup of water and set aside) In a large skillet heat the oil and add pork, red pepper and salt & pepper. Cook at high heat until pork is no longer pink (About 5 minutes) then add the mushrooms, garlic and white scallions and cook until softened (3 minutes). Lower heat to medium and add the sauce and reserved water. Simmer 10 minutes. Pour over pasta and add parsley, green scallions, and cheese. Toss & Serve with extra cheese, and ENJOY!
RECIPE: Asparagus with Wasabi Mayonnaise Dip… (From the kitchen of Chef Sanford)…
3 pounds thin to medium asparagus trimmed… 1 cup Mayonnaise… 4 teaspoons soy sauce… 1 ½ teaspoons sugar… 2 tea-spoons wasabi paste… Blanch asparagus in 2 batches of boiling salted water. Mix remaining ingredients together and serve.
“A man wrapped up in himself makes a very small bundle” …the New and Young Ben Franklin
www.BenFranklintoday.com
Valentine's Day at the Museum Love is in the air. Enjoy the Celebration’ th on February 9 . Stephen Starr chef demonstration 'Food as an Artistic Aphrodisiac' on February th 12 . Valentine's Day Dinner at Granite Hill restaurant, or grooving to soul music at our Art After 5 Love Lounge on February th 14 .
PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM of ART
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is among the largest art museums in the United States. It has collections of more than 227,000 objects that include "world-class holdings of European and American paintings, prints, drawings, and decorative arts.
www.philamuseum.org
Prime Travel – It’s even more fun than Bungee Jumping!
PRIME TRAVEL – The Phillies in Clearwater
Each and every year tons of Philadelphia baseball fans travel to Florida for their favorite part of the baseball season – spring training. They watch a lot of baseball, and they party in the local bars and restaurants. Most of it happens in March, but one of the big challenges is reserving a room as March is the busiest month in the Clearwater area.
Having spent a great deal of time in Tampa, I witnessed the Philadelphia people do their annual thing. Actually, I have experienced the fun of spring training myself and basically it’s a party that never seems to stop. Keep in mind that the Tampa area is also the spring training home of the New York Yankees and the Toronto Blue Jays, so there is a lot to consider. In terms of the experience, everyone can google the hotels, bars and restaurants, and the neat places to go. I have my favorites, but keep in mind that Clearwater has incredible beaches, and there are lots of hotels within a few steps of the beach. The names are all there… Hyatt, Hilton, Sheraton, Holiday Inn, etc., etc. If you can’t secure a room, my suggestion is a drive to downtown Tampa where there are a bevy of places to stay. When I think of Tampa restaurants, there are two incredible concepts that you want to experience if restaurants are deemed important in your life.
Bern’s Steakhouse
It’s a classic steakhouse where the food is secondary to the experience. The people come here from all over the world, and they will give you a tour of one of the busiest kitchens in America and a wine cellar that includes over 500,000 bottles. This is not a 25-seat BYOB. This is a place where they serve desserts upstairs in the dessert room.
They opened in 1956 and never looked back. How about fresh vegetables from the Bern’s Farm, and how about 21 choices of caviar. And how about this line from their menu… “We want you to know that we cut our steaks to give you good eating, not necessarily good looking. If you tour our kitchen, you'll see why we buy 3-4 pounds of beef in order to give you one pound of steak.” I would also suggest that a dinner here is not under the category of inexpensive, but at least you can say that you’ve been there.
The Columbia Restaurant
This is very possibly the most unique restaurant in America (the largest Spanish restaurant in the world). We are talking about 52,000 Square feet with 15 dining rooms and 1700 seats that takes up an entire block in Ebor City in Tampa. Spend at least one night in Ebor City. It’s not to be confused with Disney, but Ebor City is something to experience. You will find great bars and restaurants with a feeling of “authenticity” that cannot be replicated.
It’s a place of the 1800’s when Cuban immigrants found their way into the cigar business and not too much has changed. The Columbia Restaurant opened in 1905 and the beautiful Outdoor Patio was added in 1937.
The King’s Room…
The Don Quixote Room
The Bar
This is a restaurant you have to see to believe that a concept of this magnitude can actually make it in the modern restaurant world. The Sancho Dining Room
Quiz... 10 Questions. You should get all ten! 1. Johnny's mother had three children. The first child was named April. The second child was named May. What was the third child's name? 2. There is a clerk at the butcher shop. He is five feet ten inches tall and he wears size 13 sneakers. What does he weigh? 3. Before Mt. Everest was discovered, what was the highest mountain in the world? 4. How much dirt is there in a hole that measures two feet by three feet by four feet? 5. What word in the English language is always spelled incorrectly? 6. Billy was born on December 28th, yet his birthday is always in the summer. How is this possible?
7. In California, you cannot take a picture of a man with a wooden leg. Why not? 8. What was the President's name in 1975? 9. If you were running a race, and you passed the person in 2nd place, what place would you be in now? 10. Which is correct to say, "The yolk of the eggs are white" or "The yolk of the egg is white"? The Answers – Next Two Pages… Johnny’s mother had three children. The first child was named April. The second child was named May. What was the third child’s name? Answer: Johnny of course
The clerk at the butcher shop is 5 feet 10 inches tall, and he wears size 13 sneakers. What does he weigh? Answer – Meat! Before Mt. Everest was discovered, what was the highest mountain in the world? Answer: Mt. Everest; it just wasn’t discovered yet. How much dirt is there in a hole that measures two feet by three feet by four feet? Answer: There is no dirt in a hole. What word in the English language is always spelled incorrectly? Answer: Incorrectly! Billy was born on December 28th, yet his birthday is always in the summer. How is this possible? Answer: Billy lives in the Southern Hemisphere. In California, you cannot take a picture of a man with a wooden leg. Why not? Answer: You can't take pictures with a wooden leg. You need a camera to take pictures.
What was the President's name in 1975? Answer: Same as is it now - Barack Obama If you were running a race, and you passed the person in 2nd place, what place would you be in now? Answer: You would be in 2nd. Well, you passed the person in second place, not first. Which is correct to say, "The yolks of the egg are white" or "The yolk of the egg is white"? Answer: Neither, the yolk of the egg is yellow [Duh!]
Did anyone get all Ten? Did anyone get at least Five? Did anyone miss them all? Don’t worry about it, we’re just having fun!
Who in the world does your hair?
Seaside/Photo Taken by Doug Cox