Concierge March, 2014
The Importance of Concierge Connections… “There are more concierge professionals in Philadelphia than ever before, and that has a lot to do with all the new condos, apartments, and hotels. On a daily basis, we get to send hundreds of our customers to countless restaurants, retail stores, entertainment venues, museums, doctors – you name it. Our recommendations literally translate to tens of millions of dollars every year to our local community”.
Ken Alan – Founder of the Philadelphia Concierge Association
The Young Ben Franklin
“The doorstep to the temple of wisdom is a knowledge of our own ignorance.”
BenFranklinToday.com
The Restaurant Report by Bob Bickell
Chef Nicholas Elmi – Restaurant Laurel; 40 Years at Friday Saturday Sunday; March Tomatoes with Chef Chris Daly; Restaurant Commentary – Chickie’s & Pete’s
Chef Nicholas Elmi
It was about two months before the official ending of Le Bec-Fin. I found myself having dinner with Chef Perrier and his public relations lady at Sampan on 13th Street. I asked the chef a very simple question, and I received a very interesting answer. My question was “How good is Nicholas Elmi?�
His answer: “He is very, very good. He is actually better I am.” BB: He is better than you are? I find it difficult that you would ever make such a statement.” Chef: “He is better than me.” BB: Can I quote you on this? Chef: “Yes you can.” And there you have it. We wake-up and Nick wins the title of “The Top Chef” and his restaurant Laurel is an over-night success. George is an intriguing character who could have been beloved in this City. I would suggest that he is respected for 42 amazing years, but he is hardly beloved. The rumor on the street is that he is looking for a small restaurant to do it all over again. I hope that happens. It would certainly be interesting.
Laurel – 3 Bells or 4 Bells? Craig LaBan has spoken, and Nicholas Elmi’s new restaurant received a very positive 3 Bells. Of course, Chef Elmi wanted 4 Bells, and eventually that might happen. I have heard two very different versions from several Philadelphia chefs, and it goes something like this… Laurel is a 22-seat BYOB restaurant that is dinner-only for five nights per week. On that basis alone, it doesn’t deserve the 4 Bells.
The other side (which I prefer) is that Nicholas Elmi is an artist. He is the restaurant, and he is doing precisely what he wants to do. It’s not easy for a young chef to open his own restaurant, and you can’t get rich with a small BYOB concept. The quality is in the 4-Bell category, and that’s what it should be. My thought is that Nick survived and matured at Le Bec-Fin. I have no idea what he had in mind at the Rittenhouse Tavern other than a job. He had to be unhappy and he did the right thing. A chef with his talent has to have his own place. His future is way ahead of him, and it’s going to be good. End of story.
FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY
There is a moment in time when one can attach the word “classic” to a given restaurant. The truth is that most of the classics are gone. In my mind, after 40 great years, Friday Saturday Sunday has earned the right to be called a “Philadelphia Classic”. The good news is that this place might go another 40 years.
Weaver Lilley was part of an amazing movement in the early 70’s known as a “Restaurant Rennaisance” and one might suggest there is yet another Philadelphia Restaurant Rennaisance that is taking place as we speak. The key players of the 70’s Rennaisance (other than Friday Saturday Sunday) include The Frog and the Commissary; the Black Banana; Lickety Split; The Knave of Hearts; The Astral Plane; Judy’s; The Garden; Les Amis; and the original La Terrasse. With all the neat restaurants that were part of the 70’s thing, the sole survivor is Friday Saturday Sunday, and of course the man – Weaver Lilley www.FriSatSun.com
Tomato Times by Chef Chris Daly
When people say tomatoes it reminds me of when I worked in the Michelin starred kitchens of Philippe Contacini in Paris. Tomatoes with Mozzarella were his favorite and when he would come to dinner to my home in New York City, usually with a few other Michelin starred chefs in tow, I knew how to hit that Achilles heel.
Heirloom Tomatoes from Upstate Farms in Columbia County or Abundant Life Farms in Walker Valley and the best handmade mozzarella I could find here in the city, fresh ground pepper, some sea salt and Mission Olive Oil from California. What a “food memory�, some great dinners cooked with ease and friendship and enjoyed by some of the greatest cooks I have ever known. The quality of those tomatoes was all based on the season and it was a given among any chef that you would never serve any guests in your restaurant let alone your home the salmon pink colored tomatoes of January that tasted like nothing with a texture best described as mealy and mushy.
For all tomato lovers one of the biggest “payoffs” for being patient and waiting for “ real “heirloom tomatoes to come is using them in the simplest form that turns out the most sublime results you can imagine, simple food made with the best grown seasonal products. While we wait for heirlooms though, I do have to add that the hot house tomatoes from New Jersey in late spring, early summer are pretty good to say the least. Many times, with careful cooking with the seasonal approach, restraint is the answer and you really don’t need to do too much to those tomatoes or any whole food product for that matter.
I always remember Bill Grimes of The New York Times calling me and asking how my cooking at Bellew in mid- town Manhattan could be so good. My simple answer was that it had taken me close to 18 years to learn how to do nothing to food. So, In the middle of a gray day in a week that is coming in like a Lion with weather that has been a little erratic to say the least, I am drawing some brief rays of sunshine tinged with hopes of spring from two farmer friends Jan and Linda when they talk planting new crops of tomatoes. Jan from Upstate Farms and Linda from Abundant Life Farms grow heirloom tomatoes and the past week they have been sorting seeds to plant.
Linda who grows Bio-Dynamic mentioned that there was some good news in spite of the fact that our weather has now entered into a realm that is best described as crazy. The brown louse or stink bugs that made their way from Virginia last year because of (you guessed it) the erratic weather, won’t be a problem this year. The extreme cold here killed them off. California is in the middle of some pretty extreme weather right now and one of the best hopes for people across the United States this year who is going to be to focus on buying local from farmers like Jan and Linda. As a chef who has lots of patience developed over the course of several years, my question is when is the consumer going to “get political”, and vote with their wallets and
stand by the renaissance of local growers and Community Supported Agricultural Concerns? Or CSA’s as they are known. There is a real secret weapon we can all yield and that is to support the re- creation of small family type and “artisanal” farms. When are we going to start saying no to factory farming that is a huge part of the destruction of our environment? Hopefully before all real food is just a “food memory “.
Chef Christopher Daly
COMMENTARY by Bob Bickell
Chickie's & Pete's is a Philadelphia area sports bar and restaurant chain with a total of twelve locations. The company has experienced some financial issues over the years as it relates to their payment system to their employees (tips, minimum wages, overtime, etc.). Several employees have filed lawsuits, and eventually the U.S. Labor Department got involved with an investigation; the results of which are somewhat staggering. The bottom line (so to speak) is that Chickie’s & Pete’s has agreed to pay $8.52 million in back wages and damages to some 1,159 past and
present employees, and a portion of this is to settle some ninety Federal lawsuits. My guess is that the $8.52 million, coupled with a public relations disaster represents a major blow to the future of this company, and the chain’s owner (Peter Ciarrocchi, Jr. was quoted as saying that the settlement “was the right thing to do”. Having said that, the owner also made a statement that sounds almost ridiculous given the overall situation in question… "Our employees are the backbone of our company, and they deserve our respect and appreciation. We believe these settlements are in their best interests, and we worked cooperatively with the DOL and with plaintiffs' counsel to make them happen." Even the Department of Labor supplied an interesting quote…"Tips are the property of the employees who received them. "Taking a portion of those tips can have costly consequences for a restaurant owner.” I guess they have a point there.
Wastin’ away again in Margaritaville…
Success stories have been notably missing in the modern version of Atlantic City (until the opening of Margaritaville at Resorts). For the multitude of fans who follow Jimmy Buffett, the folks at Resorts have reinvented “Paradise”. The longs lines of people just waiting to get in tells the story. He probably won’t be there, but it doesn’t matter. Jimmy Buffett is a singer, song writer, and a businessman. He has an enormous following because he has stayed true to his music and his fans. Almost everything he does can be characterized as an "island escapism" lifestyle. This means beaches, water, and
suntan lotion (and things like margaritas). What’s not to like? The folks at Resorts seized the moment, and it’s no surprise that the people love it. Buffet’s most loyal fans are called “Parrot Heads” and they are the most vocal at his ongoing live events. It doesn’t matter what you call them, they are showing up in Atlantic City. It’s a real pleasure to finally talk about something that looks like a roaring success in this area of the world.
“Wastin’ away again in Margaritaville Searching for my lost shaker of salt Some people claim that there’s a woman to blame But I know it’s nobody’s fault” www.ResortsAC.com
Abstinence is Prime for Pure Italian Vines by Petrina Fisher Wells
Ask a group of Americans to list some Italian wines and most of them will include Montepulciano, Chianti and Pinot Grigio. Others might mention Prosecco, Barbera and Barolo. But only a very few would talk about
Schioppenttino, a black grape from Northern Italy, or Tazzelenghe, a grape that roughly translates to “tongue stinging” or “tongue cutting.” Clearly, they don’t know what they’re missing. Italy boasts more than 1,500 indigenous wine varietals, a remarkable number compared to France, California and Australia, which primarily grow around 15. “And only about 600 Italian varietals have been genetically identified,” said Bill Binczak, II, president of Bethlehem, Pa.based South Italy Imports. (Genetic identification involves tracing and indentifying a property through every step of production.) You might think a little vineyard sex wouldn’t tangle the family vine. But Italian purists believe in vine abstinence to produce the most
authentic wine, one which lets any appreciative drinker distinguish the terroir (the area where it's grown) and discern the elements in the soil. Along with son Bill and daughter Stacey, Binczak is on a mission to introduce America to wine varietals from all 20 of Italy’s wine-growing regions. “We’re focusing on traditional or ‘ancient’ wines, which Italians in Italy drink regularly; it’s not necessarily what Americans drink,” Stacey Binczak explained. “We lean toward Italian producers who have never exported to the U.S., so these wines are unique in more ways than one.” Many are also new to American palates, which is part of their appeal. “Americans are eager to try new things, and they have a favorable attitude toward Italian products in general,” adds Bill Binczak.
With a passion and love of Italian grapes, the Binczaks educated themselves by attending wine-tasting events over the years. This coupled with frequent travels to Italy, where they have learned to cherish the finer points and littleknown qualities of the wines Italians enjoy every day. It didn’t take long to realize that these wines were unknown in America. Consider La Corsa, a vineyard in an area that has produced wine for more than 2000 years. Its reputation of high-quality and well-balanced varieties spread to southern France, which was a vast distance in those days. Thanks to South Italy Imports, Pennsylvania oenophiles can appreciate wines that include La Corsa’s varietals, such as the elegant Sangiovese or Aghiloro.
To order or for more information, contact stacey@southitalyimports.net. She can help you select a few bottles or start an impressive wine collection. To see all South Italy’s wine offerings, visit www.southitalyimports.net . A wine tasting room opens to the public in Bethlehem. Follow on Facebook for exact dates.
Barbara’s Kitchen The lady can cook! Just follow her instructions.
BARBARAS’CHICKEN… 8 skinless boneless chicken thighs Salt & pepper All-purpose flour ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, halved lengthwise and lightly smashed
2 cups of low sodium chicken broth 2 tbs fresh lemon juice 2 tbs butter ½ cup of banana peppers (or whatever pepper you like.) Sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper and dust with flour. In a large skillet heat the oil till shimmering. Add the chicken and cook over high heat turning once until brown and crusty on both sides (About 10 minutes). Lower the heat to low and add the garlic and cook for 1 minute until the garlic is lightly browned. Transfer the chicken to a platter leaving the garlic in the skillet.
Add the chicken broth to the skillet and cook over high heat, scrapping up any browned bits until reduced by half. (About 5 minutes) Lower the heat to low and add the lemon juice and butter and swirl until emulsified. Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the skillet. Add the peppers and cook, turning the chicken until coated in the sauce. (About 3 minutes) Transfer the chicken and sauce to the platter and serve.
Barbara could have been a chef. What more can we say?
Prime Travel…Philadelphia
The Barnes Foundation
The Huffington Post just suggested that Philadelphia is the most underrated City in America. They presented 31 reasons to prove their claim. We have listed some of them (the Wing Bowl was eliminated for fear that a visitor might actually go there).
Over 200 BYOB Restaurants… Cheesesteaks… (And cheap Beer)… History (the Liberty Bell) etc… The Reading Terminal… Our Art Community… Boathouse Row… Fairmount Park… Federal Doughnuts… Our great Restaurants… And interestingly enough – The Eastern State Penitentiary… (they failed to include the SS United States).
Philadelphia Museum of Art
A sweeping panorama, Treasures from Korea celebrates the artistic achievements of the Joseon dynasty, a line of twenty-seven monarchs that ruled the Korean peninsula for more than five hundred years and left a substantial legacy for modern Korea. Objects explore the roles of king and court, the distinct spheres of men and women in society, and religious beliefs, all underpinned by the ideals of Confucianism. This is the first full-scale American exhibition to be devoted to art of the Joseon dynasty. Thru May 26th. On Saturday March 15th Explore our Treasures from Korea exhibition. Enjoy a day of festivities for the whole family.
Why Would a Chicken Cross The Road? (Read this if you have absolutely nothing to do) ARISTOTLE: It is the nature of chickens to cross the road. AL GORE: I invented the chicken. DR SEUSS: Did the chicken cross the road? Did he cross it with a toad? Yes, the chicken crossed the road, but why it crossed I've not been told. ALBERT EINSTEIN: Did the chicken really cross the road, or did the road move beneath the chicken? BILL CLINTON: I did not cross the road with that chicken! SARAH PALIN: The chicken crossed the road because, gosh-darn it, he's a maverick!
BARACK OBAMA: Let me be perfectly clear, if the chickens like their eggs they can keep their eggs. No chicken will be required to cross the road to surrender her eggs. Period. JOHN McCAIN: My friends, the chicken crossed the road because he recognized the need to engage in cooperation and dialogue with all the chickens on the other side of the road. HILLARY CLINTON: What difference at this point does it make why the chicken crossed the road!!! GEORGE W. BUSH: We don't really care why the chicken crossed the road. We just want to know if the chicken is on our side of the road or not. The chicken is either with us or against us. There is no middle ground here. COLIN POWELL: Now to the left of the screen, you can clearly see the satellite image of the chicken crossing the road.
JOHN KERRY: Although I voted to let the chicken cross the road, I am now against it! It was the wrong road to cross, and I was misled about the chicken's intentions. I am not for it now, and will remain against it. DR. PHIL: The problem we have here is that this chicken won't realize that he must first deal with the problem on this side of the road before it goes after the problem on the other side of the road. What we need to do is help him realize how stupid he is acting by not taking on his current problems before adding any new problems. ANDERSON COOPER: We have reason to believe there is a chicken, but we have not yet been allowed to have access to the other side of the road. NANCY GRACE: That chicken crossed the road because he's guilty! You can see it in his eyes and the way he walks.
PAT BUCHANAN: To steal the job of a decent, hardworking American. MARTHA STEWART: No one called me to warn me which way the chicken was going. I had a standing order at the Farmer's Market to sell my eggs when the price dropped to a certain level. No little bird gave me any insider information. GRANDPA: In my day we didn't ask why the chicken crossed the road. Somebody told us the chicken crossed the road, and that was good enough for us. BILL GATES: I have just released eChicken2014, which will not only cross roads, but will lay eggs, file your important documents and balance your checkbook. Internet Explorer is an integral part of eChicken2014. Colonel Sanders: Did I miss this one?
SPRING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Photo by Doug Cox