RBTH Thailand October issue by Russia Beyond

Thursday, October 2, 2014

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The great eastern journey of Nicholas II

DURING THIS TRIP HE SPENT SOME TIME IN SIAM

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POLITICS

PICTURES AND NUMBERS

US world view flawed, says Lavrov PHOTOSHOT/VOSTOCK-PHOTO

Russian foreign minister Sergei Lavrov responds to Barack Obama.

FALLOUT OF SANCTIONS FOCUS ON BOOSTING THE REAL SECTOR Russian President Vladimir Putin suggested using the US and EU sanctions against the country to increase the competitiveness of the Russian economy, with a planned thrust to improve the competitiveness of the real sector in the next two years. According to Putin, the efforts of all federal and regional government organs must be oriented towards the development of the real sector. In particular, the key instrument must be accessible credits.

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to ISIL [the Islamic State], al-Qaeda and other terrorists who now operate in the Middle East, primarily in countries that the United States has invaded illegal-

BUSINESS

Sanctions take toll on LNG projects

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Western sanctions are having a significant effect on the realisation of Russian Liquefied natural gas (LNG) projects, one of the

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most promising segments of the gas market. In order to realise these projects Russia’s largest oil and gas companies have

ly, in breach of international law. So, I don’t think that the peacemaker’s speech, the way it was written, was a success if you put it beside specific facts,” he said.

turned to the government, which may be able to allot resources for their support. The Kommersant daily business newspaper has reported that the American company ExxonMobil, still considered Russian oil and gas giant Rosneft’s main future partner in its long-term LNG project in the Far East, and in the Arctics no longer plans on participating in the endeavour as an investor. However, according to the Kommersant newspaper, Rosneft has already found a solution to the problem. The project may become a part of the bigger Sakhalin-1 project, which is not affected by the western sanctions. Additionally, according to the rules of the agreement, the government may compensate the project’s participants for their infrastructure expenses.

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Lavrov said Russia did not believe in unilateral accusations and “laying the blame at somebody else’s door” as ways of dealing with conflicts.

1.5% 5.7% In the first half of the year, industrial production grew by 1.5 per cent in comparison with the same period in 2013, while GDP grew only by 0.8 per cent.

SCIENCE

Anti-Ebola vaccine in the works An experimental vaccine against Ebola haemorrhagic fever developed by Russian scientists is undergoing pre-clinical animal testing and will soon be ready to be tested on humans, head of Russian Federal Service for Consumer Rights’ Protection Anna Popova told RBTH.“There is every reason to expect that soon the vaccine could be used as a prevention against Ebola,” she said. However, she did not offer a specific timeframe. A team of Russian epidemiologists are now working in Guinea.

During the same period passenger car output by 5.7 per cent, and truck production by 12.7 per cent. Textile and clothing production increased by 6 per cent.

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Russian Foreign Minister Sergei Lavrov has slammed US President Barack Obama for stating “American world view”in a speech to the United Nations General Assembly. “It’s an American world view, a world view stated by a president who has repeatedly stressed his own exclusiveness and the exclusiveness of his country, and the world view of a nation that has written down into its national security doctrine a right to use force at its discretion regardless of any decisions of the UN Security Council or any other acts of international law,” Lavrov told journalists. Russia “was honoured with second place as a threat to world peace and security”in Obama’s speech, Lavrov said. “The fever caused by the Ebola virus was in first place, the Russian aggression in Europe, as the president put it, was in second place, and third place went

Russians take up the Ice Bucket Challenge RBTH.COM/39601

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Export Asbestos sales are declining

“Colossal pressure is being put to eliminate the use of chrysotile and replace it with materials produced in other countries.” GLEB FEDOROV RBTH

If in 2013 Russia supplied 41,805 tonnes of the raw material for US$11.7 million, then during the first half of the current year, the figure was only 18,549 tonnes, the Ministry of Economic Development of the Russian Federation informed RBTH. In recent years, exports have been greater. For Russia, 2009 marked a record when it supplied Thailand with 98,971 tonnes worth $16.4 million. About 90 per cent of asbestos imported into the Kingdom goes into the pro-

duction of roofing tiles and cement pipes. The remaining 10 per cent is used in the manufacture of brake linings, clutches, floor tiles, and cushioning and insulating materials. According to the executive director of the Chrysotile Association, Vladimir Galitsyn, the chief cause of the decline in supply is that “colossal pressure is being put on Thailand’s manufacturers to completely eliminating the use of chrysotile and replace it with materials produced in other countries.” Asbestos is the collective name for a group of natural minerals. The most wellknown types of asbestos are chrysotile and amphibole. Of them, only the latter is recognised as a very dangerous carcinogen and is ca-

Thai market shows a fast declining trend

Russian exports of chrysotile asbestos to Thailand are going down.

Only amphibole is recognised as a very dangerous carcinogen, causing cancer Russian Federation has a history of over 100 years of chrysotile asbestos safe application

pable of causing cancer.The production and use of amphibole asbestos was banned in most countries as far back as the last century when in 1986 the International Labour Organisation passed the “Convention concerning Safety in the Use of Asbestos”. However, in 2005 the European Commission expanded the research data on the effect of amphibole asbestos to the entire asbestos group, including chrysotile,

and classified both types of asbestos as carcinogens. As a result, all types of asbestos were banned in the European Union. Following the EU, other countries have banned asbestos. The spread of the ban has not been hampered even by the resolution adopted by the World Health Organisation in 2007 in line with which “states must take a differentiated approach in the way they deal with the various types of asbestos.

In Thailand, in accordance with the Hazardous Substances Act, chrysotile and amphibone asbestos both belong to the group of dangerous substances. And since 2010, materials containing asbestos must have markings indicating that they have chrysotile and may have an impact on human health. In addition, the Ministry of Public Health of the Kingdom, in collaboration with the Thailand Research Fund and the Royal Institute of the Academy of Sciences of the Kingdom of Thailand, has prepared a publication titled “On the Various Views on the Use of Asbestos in Thai Industries”.It states that in Thailand, there has been no recorded case of death caused by direct contact with chrysotile asbestos. In this publication only one case of asbestosis is mentioned, and in this case this disease was found alongside another disease (talcosis). It also happened several decades ago, in 1977. Since then, there has been no case of asbestos-related disease found in Thailand. Russia is the world leader in the production of chrysotile asbestos and has a history of over 100 years of its safe application.

Nuclear Rosatom is ready to work with Kingdom in all nuclear energy related areas, including safety and medicine

Russia and Thailand sign pact on peaceful nuclear energy Russian State Corporation Rosatom and Thailand’s Institute of Nuclear Technology have signed a memorandum of cooperation. MARK KOOPER SPECIAL TO RBTH

The signing took place on the sidelines of the 58th General Conference of the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) on September 23. On the Russian side, the document was signed by the Deputy Director-General of Rosatom Vyacheslav Pershukov, and on the Thai side, by Executive Director of the Thai-

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land Institute of Nuclear Technology Somporn Chongkum. As RBTH learned from Rosatom – the purpose of this memorandum was to strengthen cooperation in the peaceful uses of nuclear energy between the two countries, and to provide concrete suggestions for the organisation and implementation of this work. In the near future, the parties will establish a working group to identify specific joint projects. The parties are interested in developing cooperation in the areas of basic and applied research, radioisotopes, nuclear safety, se-

curity and radiation protection, and radioactive waste management, as well as in the areas of teaching, training, and qualifications upgrading for administrative and scientific-technical personnel. One of the projects can be related to cooperation in the field of nuclear medicine. Russia is among the top five producers of isotope products, which are actively being used as raw material for radiopharmaceuticals utilized in the diagnosis and treatment of cancer, cardiac, and neurological diseases. Rosatom supplies countries in Europe, America,

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One of the projects can be related to nuclear medicine.

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and Asia with isotope products. Rosatom also delivers batches of isotopes iodine-131, iodine-125, tungsten-188, strontium-89, tungsten-188 (rhenium-188 generator), lutetium-177, used in radioisotope diagnosis carried out in positron emission centres, and help save hundreds of thousands of lives. At Rosatom, the joint development of radiation technologies used for the disinfection of food, the sterilisation of medical equipment, non-destructive testing systems, and water purification systems are also considered important areas of focus.

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QUESTIONS & ANSWERS THE NEW RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR TO THAILAND PLANS TO PROMOTE BILATERAL TRADE, WELCOMES THE NEW GOVERNMENT OF THAILAND AND EXPLAINS WHY CRIMEA CAN’T BE REPEATED IN ASIA

As Ambassador to Thailand what will be the first steps you will take? Among my first steps will be meetings with members of the royal family, leading politicians, leaders of the country’s defence forces, salient representatives of business circles, cultural figures, influential political scientists and journalists, rectors, and the teaching staff of the largest universities. In late August, a new government was formed in Thailand and it will be important to make the acquaintance of the members of the cabinet of ministers. What is Russia’s position with regard to the change of power in Thailand? As there are no two identical states, there is no universal model of democracy. Each country has its own path, its own specificities, and only the citizens of a given country, and their leaders, know how to run that country and build the optimal political system. Thus, the current stage in the development of Thai society is met with understanding in Russia, and Russia is prepared to work with the current authorities of the Kingdom of Thailand on the basis of the friendly sympathies that have long bound our states and peoples, as well as the fundamental national interests of our two countries.

Besides trade and tourism, in which other areas do you see possibilities for the growth of cooperation? Thailand is the secondlargest economy in Southeast Asia. It has modern industry and far-reaching plans for development. For Russia, it is a very important and promising partner – and in many different areas.Take, for example, the growing demand of the Thai economy for hydrocarbons and electric energy. Cooperation with Russian companies in the areas of oil and gas extraction, hydroelectric station construction, and peaceful nuclear energy would help Bangkok solve many problems. Russia is prepared to actively support the implementation of Thailand’s ambitious infrastructure development plan.

Barskiy says that the Western sanctions imposed on Russia are illegitimate.

What role does Russia want to play in the APR, and what role can it play? Russia is not just an organic part of the region participating in absolutely all of the multilateral regional unions, but it also “solos” in them. For example, it was Russia that took the lead in the issue of forming a new security and cooperation architecture in the APR, which is a priority for the whole region. As far as it is possible to judge, the Asean member states are interested in expanding cooperation with Russia. Much is already being done within the framework of the RussiaAsean Dialogue Partnership. A whole series of mutually beneficial, innovative, and interesting projects is on the agenda.

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Kirill Barskiy, the new Ambassador of the Russian Federation to Thailand, answers RBTH’s questions and talks about his initial steps in a new place and Russia’s foreign policy.

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BIO

Kirill Barskiy PREVIOUS POST: SPECIAL ENVOY TO SHANGHAI COOPERATION ORGANISATION

Graduated in 1989 from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations, majoring in international relations. The same year, he started his diplomatic career.

How would you describe the essence of what happened in Ukraine? In February this year, an unconstitutional coup took place in Kiev with the direct support of the USA and European Union. The legitimate head of state was overthrown by force. As a result of this coup, a group of populist rightwing radical politicians came to power and turned the course towards European integration to the detriment of Ukraine’s traditional ties with Russia, which a significant part of the country’s population did not support, especially in southern and southeastern Ukraine. The adoption of a law prohibiting the use of the Russian language and the nascent persecution of those who did not

agree with the policies of the new rulers of Ukraine provoked the formation in many regions of the country mass social movements calling for the protection of their legitimate interests. Instead of working to attain a national consensus, Kiev unleashed a war on its own people that has yet to end. From the very beginning, Russia has stood for the peaceful resolution of the conflict in Ukraine. At present, in part as a result of Moscow’s efforts, a long awaited truce has been achieved in Southeast Ukraine. Russia will do everything in its power to facilitate this process. Do you think that the Crimea could become a dangerous precedent for the solution of

territorial disagreements in Southeast Asia? The history of Crimea is absolutely unique. Crimea is originally Russian land that illegally ended up under the jurisdiction of another state twice in the past 60 years – in 1954 and 1991. In the first case, Nikita Khrushchev, the then First Secretary of the Central Committee of the CPSU, did it in violation of the Constitution of the RSFSR,“giving”the Crimea Oblast of the Russian Federation “as a gift” to the Ukrainian SSR. And 37 years later, BorisYeltsin, the President of the RSFSR, agreed at the time of the Soviet Union’s disintegration to leave Crimea in Ukraine, though he did not have the authority to do so. It is no accident that after the coup in Kiev, 97 per cent of

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The US and European Union, as well as their closest allies, imposed sanctions on Russia because of the Ukrainian crisis. It has already been six months since the announcement of the first package of sanctions. It is possible to draw any conclusions today? Today, it is clear to any reasonable, unbiased observer that the sanctions imposed by the USA and several other countries on Russia have the purpose of weakening Russia and “punishing” Moscow for implementing an independent domestic and foreign policy. Ukraine is just an excuse. From the point of view of international law, these sanctions are illegitimate, and flimsy pretexts were found for their imposition. If there had been no Ukraine, they would have found something else. There is no international

isolation of Russia and there cannot be. Most countries do not share in or support such a policy. The USA and Europe are not the whole world. Russia has many reliable partners and good friends. In order to prove this, it will suffice to list just a few of our recent foreign policy successes: Vladimir Putin’s visit to China in May, the signing of the Treaty on the Establishment of the Eurasian Economic Union on 25 May, the BRICS July summit in Brazil, and the Russian president’s tour of Latin America. What lessons have been taught by the situation surrounding Ukraine? The first and foremost is that politicians must recognise the responsibility they have for the decisions they make, especially when they are dealing with such serious issues as the sovereignty of a state, the choice of the path for development, and domestic political stability. It is namely the irresponsibility of Ukrainian and Western politicians that have brought about the dramatic events that we now find ourselves observing. Secondly, a government must take care of its own people and take into consideration the interests of all regions and all population groups equally. Otherwise, people might show the hated powers a “red card”, which, accordingly, is what happened in Crimea and then in southeastern Ukraine. Thirdly, attempts by external forces to destabilise the situation inside individual countries and to “rock the state’s boat”, no matter how well covered they are in slogans, lead only to bloody conflicts, the destruction of structures of authority, the degradation of the economy, and the impoverishment of the people. And not rarely do “colour revolutions” from without boomerang on directors who plan these political projects. Interview by Gleb Fedorov

Embargo Thailand can reap the benefits if it can meet expectations

Russian sanctions open opportunities for Thailand INTERVIEW

Mangoes and orchids NAME: VACHARA GOSONVICH COMPANY: IMPEX GOURMET CO LTD REUTERS

Crimea’s inhabitants voted for this territory’s independence in the referendum of March 16. The territorial disputes in Southeast Asia are of a completely different nature. The most bitter of them is the dispute over the islands and waters of the South China Sea. Its essence is the difficulty of resolving the issue of territorial demarcation when several parties make conflicting claims on various sections of the land and sea. Russia is convinced that the path to the solution of this complex problem lies solely in peaceful and politico-diplomatic means where negotiations continue between participants in the territorial dispute and where there is no internationalisation and meddling from without. At the same time, it is necessary to work out and adopt a code of conduct in the South China Sea as soon as possible, to ensure its compliance by all interested sides, and with it guarantee the security of shipping in this region. It would also be useful to come to an agreement on the staged implementation of military sphere confidence-building measures in the waters of the South China Sea.

Russian market can buy more food from Thailand, but logistics should be improved.

The tit-for-tat war of sanctions between Russia and the West may find an unlikely beneficiary: Thai exporters of agricultural produce. AJAY KAMALAKARAN SPECIAL TO RBTH

Analysts and industry watchers who spoke to RBTH believe that there is a genuine opportunity for Thai exporters to increase food product deliveries to Russia. Last month, after enduring a few rounds of sanctions from the West over Russia’s alleged role in supporting rebels in eastern Ukraine, Moscow hit back with a one-year ban on fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, milk and dairy imports from the US, the European Union, Australia, Canada and Norway. The Russian government is looking to encourage domestic food production and stimulate import substitution; however in the short run, the only viable option is to import food from other markets. Although the Russian media has focused on Latin American countries, China and India as potential suppliers of food products, fruit and vegetable exports

from Thailand to Russia were already growing before Moscow announced sanctions on the West. “Thailand exports almost all the fruits and vegetables affected by US and EU sanctions,” says Natalia Krylova, chief analyst with VladVneshService, an information-analytical company in Moscow. “From

Vladivostok is an entry point for products from Japan, South Korea and even Vietnam January to May 2014 import of fruits and nuts from Thailand to Russia stood at about 688 tonnes and vegetables at 109 tonnes, a rise of more than 40 per cent from the previous year,” she adds. “In the current situation, the Russian market will offer strong prospects for Thai exporters if their products will meet the requirements and expectations of Russia’s consumers,” Krylova says. Dmitry Vostrikov, development director at the Association of Producers and Supplies of Food Products

says logistics need to be worked out before Russian importers consider a significant increase in food products from Thailand. He said mechanisms need to be worked out for fresh fruit imports on account of the long sea route to Central Russia. Vostrikov believes that Russia could import tea and coffee from Thailand as well. A viable alternative to increase trade in agricultural commodities is to route the products through the Russian Far East. The port of Vladivostok on Russia’s Pacific Coast is an entry point for products from Japan, South Korea and even Vietnam. Many food items, including salted cucumbers, are exported to Russia from Vietnam viaVladivostok and sent on the Trans-Siberian railroad to central Russia. Bilateral trade between Russia and Thailand crossed $5 billion in 2012 and a target of $10 billion has been set for 2016. The countries agreed at the last session of the Thailand-Russia Joint Commission on Bilateral Relations to cooperate in agriculture and increase trade in agricultural products.

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The company Impex Gourmet has been exporting fruits, vegetables and flowers to Russia from Thailand for the past 10 years. For eight years, the main customer was the Moscow region – the supermarkets Azbuka Vkusa, Globus Gourmet, etc. However, in the past two years, Siberia has also become a major customer. RBTH asked him a couple of questions about his experience of doing business with Russia. What stops you from increasing you exports? The overall demand is growing steadily. The main problem lies in air transport. The buyers do not order in sufficient volumes for us to organise dedicated cargo flights, and so we use regular flights to ship our products. During the low season, the summer months, the actual delivery volumes become even lower than the demand coming from Russian buyers. However, in the winter, when airlines like Transaero increase their numbers of flights and introduce additional routes, cargo delivery volumes also increase. What are the most popular fruits that you are currently exporting? The most popular items that interest Russian buyers are mangoes, watermelons and orchids. The most rare and small, in terms of volume, for example, are durian deliveries – although even these are sometimes shipped into Russia.

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Film festival Hollywood stars Adrien Brody, Michael Madsen, and Stephen Baldwin were in the jury in Vladivostok

A feast of life through the lens

ent film. Globalisation is becoming a necessity. As a director, I’m worried about one thing: That the creative person retains the possibility of not changing himself.” Thanks to globalisation, the themes covered by independent film are converging throughout the world. The first and most prominent theme is social vulnerability. What could Sri Lankan, Chilean, Russian, and Ukrainian films have in common? They portray people who are helpless in the face of lawlessness, suffer social doom, and lack moral guidance. The Ukrainian film The Tribe depicts a criminal gang of deaf adolescents from a boarding school for the hearing impaired, while the Russian film Correction Class – directed by Ivan Tverdovsky, who won the Best Director Award – portrays an education system that literally crushes students with disabilities. Social film convincingly demonstrates that the problems people suffer are much the same, no matter the country.

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Hollywood stars 6

Film-makers from 15 Asia-Pacific countries and a selection of celebrity guests add colour and weight to the event. DMITRIY ROMENDIK RBTH

The 12thVladivostok International Film Festival of Asia-Pacific countries, also known as Pacific Meridian, has just wrapped up. Films from 15 countries – Russia, Japan, South Korea, China, India, the United States, Canada, Mexico, Ecuador, Chile, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Singapore, the Netherlands, and Taiwan – participated in the festival’s competition programme. The concept of life as a journey, social vulnerability, and lack of education were the key themes at this year’s event.

A crossing of cultures The first thing that caught the eye during the compe-

tition programme was the abundance of road movies. Six of the 10 films in the feature film section were road movies. In the Mexican film The Life After, children set off in search of their mother. In the American film Stand Clear of the Closing Doors, a young artist spends a whole day travelling on the subway, which proves to be a serious psychological experience for him. In the Russian film Blood, a mobile blood transfusion station travels through several villages. The theme of travel is not limited to geographical movement; it can also mean travel from culture to culture. Anna Novikova, a media studies professor at the Higher School of Economics in Moscow, told RBTH that this genre is ideally embedded in modern cultural trends. “The formulaic genre of travel permeates all of modern cul-

Hollywood stars on the blue carpet (1), Screen shots from the films: Little brother (2), A Hard Day (3), Correction Class (4), Kill a Man (5), Still the water (6).

ture. This is connected with the processes of globalisation and the modern ideology of cosmopolitanism,” Novikova said.The festival’s venue – Vladivostok, the capital of the Primorsky Territory in Russia’s Far East, near China, both Koreas, and Japan – speaks to these trends and to the global crossing of cultures. Vladivostok’s unique location has afforded it some specific characteristics, such as the predominance of Japanese cars with the steering wheel on the right side (whereas the European part of Russia is dominated by cars with the steering wheel on the left side), an abundance of goods that would be unfamiliar to Muscovites and residents of European Russia, and signs advertising

supermarket chains and insurance companies that do not exist in Moscow.

THE FACTS

Different countries, same problems

The main awards

Indian director and producer Sidharth Srinivasan, who chairs the festival’s NetPac jury, talked to RBTH about how the processes of globalisation influence the film process. Srinivasan represents the organization NetPac, which in the 20 years since it was founded has become established as the leading platform for the discovery and promotion of Asian cinema. “Globalisation has its pluses and minuses, but every cloud has its silver lining,” the Indian film-maker said. “European festivals and foreign sponsors can breathe life into independ-

Best Feature Film: “Still the Water” (director Naomi Kawase, Japan); Special Jury Award: “Blood” (director Alina Rudnitskaya, Russia); Best Director: “Ivan Tverdovsky” (Correction Class, Russia); Best Short Film: “Little Brother” (director Remi StMichel, Canada).

The festival’s venue speaks to these trends and to the global crossing of cultures

Several big names were present at the Vladivostok festival thanks to the efforts of Pacific Meridian’s founder and director, Efim Zvenyatsky, who invited intern a t i o n a l ly re n ow n e d celebrities to the event. This year, the festival was attended by Oscar winner Adrien Brody, Hollywood actor Stephen Baldwin, and one of Quentin Tarantino’s favourite actors, Michael Madsen, who was a member of the jury. In an interview with RBTH, Madsen admitted that he saw the film-making process in a different light as a jury member. “This is my second time in Vladivostok, but the first time I hardly saw any films. Now, as a member of the jury, I see a lot of films from different countries, which I probably wouldn’t have seen if it weren’t for the festival,” the actor said. It is no accident that the festival is growing in scale with each year and that, now in its 12th year, it is already considered one of the world’s top film festivals in terms of its repertoire, the quality of its organisation, and its guest list.

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Volunteering Prosperous businessmen in Phuket use their language skills to build a bridge

IN BRIEF

Brothers Protasov lend Thai police a helping hand

The eldest Romanov dies

Russians come to Thailand not only to live, relax and do business, but also to work for the benefit of society. IRINA VINOKUROVA RBTH

Five years ago, the brothers Igor and Alexey Protasov came to live Phuket with their families, where they successfully run a family construction business, and more recently, a restaurant business. Now, however, Igor and Alexey devote a considerable part of their time not to business, but social activities, working as assistants in the Thai Tourist Police department on the island. Now they are less frequently called to settle minor misunderstandings with foreign tourists on Phuket Island, but at first, as ordinary volunteers, Igor and Alexey helped police deal with almost any incidents, most of which, according to Igor Protasov, happen because of misunderstandings. “The biggest problem is the language barrier,” says Igor. Fluent, in addition to

Igor: “The main thing is the inner satisfaction we get from helping people.”

his native Russian, also in English, German, Czech and Thai languages, he and Alexey quickly became one of the most active volunteers and were invited to work at the Thai Tourist Police. “We live here,” says Igor, “and thus must be involved in the public life as well, to help in the best way we can. Of course, it is pleasant when those who we

have helped, say thanks, but this is not the most important thing.” Igor and Alexey are the only Russian assistants in the Thai Tourist Police department on Phuket island, where they are involved in the investigation if incidents occur with tourists from various countries. The majority of cases are petty theft, lost items, road traffic accidents, or simply

disputes that involve locals and foreigners. In cases of misunderstanding, where there is the possibility of reconciling parties, according to Igor Protasov, the Tourist Police officers help resolve problems without bringing the matter to trial, by reaching a settlement between the parties to the conflict right in the police station, but there are sometimes situations where

court cannot be avoided – these being the more serious cases. “Often there are times when there is clear evidence against foreigners – witnesses or surveillance camera footage. Despite this, resulting from fright they refuse to admit their guilt, and thus exacerbate their situation. In such cases, our task is to explain Thai laws to the foreigners,”says Igor. Helping maintain order on an island, which has now become home to the Protasov families, Igor and Alexey have taken part in the investigation of very high-profile criminal cases as well, such as the kidnapping of tourists from Vladivostok, Alexey Slabinsky and Yana Strizheus in March of this year. Igor Protasov was the first who spoke with Yana when she was found, and the evidence he gleaned helped the police move forward in their investigation. Igor and Alexey are often invited to work as translators in court, when there are cases with defendants or plaintiffs being foreign nationals. Although this is not part of their jobs as assistants to the Tourist Police, the Protasov brothers are always ready to provide help for the benefit of society and the law, the observance of which – is a pledge of peace and security for both residents and visitors.

Show Pattaya to be host city for Miss International Russia Thailand contest every year

Beauties dazzle in battle for diamond crown On September 19, the Thai coastal city hosted the finals of the first Miss International Russia Thailand contest. IRINA VINOKUROVA RBTH

Girls from Russia and the former Commonwealth of Independent States countries, no shorter than 5 feet 4 inches and not older than 28, were invited to participate in the contest. All girls living or temporarily staying in Thailand during the contest period could take part. The organisers of the competition tried to turn each stage into a small

event. The evening dresses of the finalists, the jewelled crowns of the winners, and the impressive cash prizes were seriously and thoroughly prepared for this event so that the beauty and elegance of Russian women would be presented at the highest level. The preliminary rounds of the competition were held in the Centara hotels in three stages on June 30 and July 15 in Pattaya and on August 3 in Bangkok. These results determined who were to battle for the title of winner. The 16 beautiful finalists presented the judges a difficult choice. But 24-year-old

Margarita Stepanova, 24, won the contest.

Margarita Stepanova was able to win the jury’s hearts in the end, and she received the winner’s first prize of a diamond crown and Bt200,000 ($6,200) cash.

Daria Lozina, 22, took second place and a prize of Bt150,000 ($4,650) and Olga Delkhman took third place and a prize of Bt100,000 ($3,100).

The organisers of the Miss International Russia Thailand 2014 contest are very pleased with the results and see great possibilities for the future development of this project. “We are very pleased with the results of this event and are sure that this contest will be held every year,” Boris Fleydervish, organiser of the contest, told RBTH. About 1.2 million Russian tourists visited Thailand last year and Pattaya is still the most popular sea resort. Moreover, according to official statistics, 134,600 Russians reside here in the province of Chon Buri.

The eldest member of the Romanov family, Prince Nikolai Romanovich, has died in Italy, aged 91. He represented the Nikolaevichi branch of the Romanov family, the oldest one in the dynasty’s male line. His father Roman Petrovich, Prince of the Imperial Blood, was a second cousin to the last Russian tsar, Nicholas II. His mother was the daughter of Count Dimitry Sheremetev, a childhood friend and aide-de-camp to Nicholas II.

Peace March in Moscow

PHOTOSHOT/VOSTOCK-PHOTO

Thousands of people turned out in the centre of Moscow on September 21 t o c a l l fo r p e a c e i n Ukraine. The march was organised by several liberal opposition parties, includingYabloko and RPRParnas. It was the first major opposition march in Moscow since a March 15 gathering. Local police put the turnout at 5,000, while the AP reported 20,000 and organisers, 40,000.

Miss America is now a Russian The Miss America title has been won by a 23-year-old resident of the State of NewYork, Kira Kazantsev. Kazantsev was born to a family of immigrants from Russia, who moved to the United States in 1990, reports ForumDaily. The girl’s father is a surgeon (he treats pancreatic cancer) and her mother is a real estate agent. Kazantsev, who speaks Russian and Spanish, has been participating in beauty pageants since the age of 11. She is now studying at Hofstra University.

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THAI FESTIVAL CENTURY-OLD BILATERAL RELATIONS ARE REINFORCED BY EVENT. NEXT YEAR, MOSCOW DAYS WILL BE HELD IN THAILAND.

A TASTE OF THAI CULTURE Moscow hosted the Festival of Thai Culture for the first time. It consisted of the cultural festival itself, a festival of cuisine, and a flower festival. GLEB FEDOROV RBTH

Thailand’s Ambassador to Russia Itty Ditbanjong, the head of the Department of External Economic Relations of Moscow Sergey Cheryomin, and the Acting Governor of Bangkok Pusadee Tamtai made the opening remarks at the opening of the festival on

September 13. The festival’s honoured guests drew special attention to the fact that diplomatic relations have already linked Russia and the Kingdom of Thailand for 117 years. Moscow and Bangkok are also connected by the “Protocol of Friendly Ties” signed back in 1997. The project“Spotlight on Thailand in Russia”is a natural extension of these relations. The event was organised by the Thai embassy with the support of the Moscow government. At the festival, there was also an exhibi-

tion dedicated to tourism, a festival of Thai cuisine at the Ararat Hotel, and an exhibition dedicated to His Majesty the King of Thailand.Visitors could also see a living greenhouse of floral arrangements by the famous florist Sakul Intakul at the Central Department Store (TsUM), for which more than 200,000 orchids were brought from Thailand. The authorities in Moscow have agreed to hold another festival opening in 2015, Moscow D ay s i n T h a i l a n d i n 2015.

The festival was held on the Kuznetsky Bridge, which is just a five-minute walk from the Kremlin and directly behind the Bolshoi Theatre building next to Central Department Store (TsUM).

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THE QUOTE

Sergey Cheryomin MOSCOW GOVERNMENT MINISTER AND HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENT FOR FOREIGN ECONOMIC ACTIVITY AND INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS

In 1997 the “Protocol of Friendly Ties between the Cities of Bangkok and Moscow” was signed, and the project “Spotlight on Thailand in Russia” is a natural extension

The festival of culture lasted two days and a large number of visitors attended, attracted by the vibrant performances and exhibitions of Thai culture. The organizers of the festival promise to continue the tradition in the future.

of these relations. For us the festival is a splendid opportunity to learn more about Thai culture and one of the world’s finest cuisines and to come to an even better understanding of the great Thai people.

THE QUOTE

Itty Ditbanjong AMBASSADOR OF THAILAND TO THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION

The festival is hosted jointly by the authorities of the sister cities of Moscow and Bangkok, as well as with the participation of the Embassy of Thailand and the Office of Commercial Affairs of Thailand in Moscow.

The following participated in the opening ceremony: the Minister of the Government of Moscow Sergey Cheryomin; the Deputy Governor of Bangkok Pusadee Tamtai; the Ambassador of Thailand to Russia Itty Ditbanjong; and the new Russian Ambassador to Thailand Kirill Barsky.

TUNE INTO THE RUSSIAN MOOD WITH OUR NEW VIDEO PODCAST ON CONTEMPORARY MUSIC

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WINTER LOOMS OVER UKRAINE Tim Lewin BRITISH CONSUL

KONSTANTIN MALER

WHAT IS RUSSIAN ‘WHATABOUTISM’? Ivan Tsvetkov RESEARCHER

av i n g e v o l v e d steadily throughout the history of Russian-US relations, “whataboutism”, a propagandistic tool deployed by Soviet journalists and politicians, has become the favourite response by Moscow to America’s increasing moralism in foreign policy. But what exactly is it? The word was originally coined by Edward Lucas, writing for The Economist in 2008, in which he reminded readers of a ploy adopted by Soviet propagandists, who, in response to US criticism, instead of explanations, would pose the question:

“And what about you?”Soviet leaders were thus able to shift the discussion to another subject, such as racial discrimination or the Vietnam War. Lucas said that Russia was increasingly resorting to “whataboutism”, citing a phrase spoken by Alexei Pushkov during a Russian TV show: “How can you accuse us of saber-rattling when you yourselves are using such weapons in Iraq?”The suggestion is that reasoning in the spirit of whataboutism is considered one of the most irrefutable methods of debate in modern Russia. On state TV channels and in state media, you would be hard-pressed to find a commentator on the West who does not spend a fair amount of airtime or

The word was originally coined by Edward Lucas, writing for The Economist in 2008

one explain this resurgence of a supposedly forgotten Soviet propaganda stunt? After all, it is no secret that the method has long been recognised as a logical absurdity, a primitive argument aimed at simpletons able to be wrong-footed simply by changing the topic. Even in the USSR, people poked fun at the efforts of propagandists, joking that in response to a question from Washington about poor living conditions in Russia, Moscow’s reply would be: “But you lynch blacks.”Yet today in Russia each new example of whataboutism is usually greeted by enthusiastic applause. What happened? Have the Russian political elite lost the ability to perceive anything other than propaganda tricks?

mous speech in Munich in 2007 to recent statements on Ukraine and Crimea, Putin has increasingly justified his controversial political steps by juxtaposing the behaviour of Washington and Brussels. How does

Dr.Ivan Tsvetkov is an associate professor at the School of International Relations of St Petersburg State University. He is an expert in US policy in the Asia Pacific Region, US history and society.

column inches savouring the problems and foreign policy failures of the US and Europe. Whataboutism is also one of the favourite rhetorical devices of PresidentVladimir Putin and his speechwriters. From his fa-

hen my father, British defence supremo Admiral Sir Terry Lewin, was asked in 1982 about the impending crisis with Argentina that dominated the days immediately before the invasion of the Falklands, his response was: “I cannot believe two civilised countries could settle such a difference by anything but negotiation.” How easily that could have been repeated about Russia and Ukraine now. Much has been said about the origins of what is essentially a family dispute – most only marginally accurate. Sadly, the real truth, the human cost of the failure in relations between these neighbours, seems to have been buried by the propaganda snowstorm of apportioning guilt. As with most family disputes, resolution can only come from within, and so far, we see little genuine desire to restore any degree of cross-border harmony. The old ties between eastern Ukraine and Russia cut both ways; stoking the separation angst of the militants and also providing a lifeline for the main part of the population caught up in a war they do not support. According to the UN, 730,000 people have been displaced and have sought refuge in Russia. To escape the violence at home, some are staying with family, oth-

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ers with old friends.The rest are staying anywhere that will accept them. Eventually, this undeclared civil war will be resolved. It will fade to a footnote in the history of the break-up of the USSR. But at what price to the people? More than 2,000 civilians have now been killed in eastern Ukraine – that could be up to 2,000 families that will never forget this internecine madness. Homes, possessions and modest comforts have been destroyed, businesses damaged, the local economies ruined, in a pointless orgy of violence. There is no insurance; no one to help pick up the pieces. People who lived in these shattered little towns now live in tents, schools, stadiums, wherever they can find shelter. Not a problem while summer is still with us, but in 90 days, the cruelty of winter – remember Napoleon’s defeat – will return. Temperatures will drop to double figures below zero, and snow will cover everything. How will these people live under those conditions? This is a disaster from which there will be no winners. Tim Lewin is an organiser and consultant for major financial, cultural and arts projects in Russia and Ukraine. He is also Britain’s honorary consul for development in Crimea.

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Sergei Tseytlin TRANSLATOR

anguage is fundamental in international diplomacy. After all, a slightly inaccurate translation can change the way one country views another, and a single misrepresentation of a concept can have drastic effects on negotiations and can significantly distort international perceptions. On Sunday August 31, President Vladimir Putin gave an interview on Russian television about the crisis in Ukraine. Part of his response included the following sentence: “We must immediately begin substantive, meaningful negotiations, not on technical questions, but on the political organisation of society and the gosudarstvennost of Ukraine’s southeast, to secure the unconditional legal interests of the people who live there.” I left the word in italics untranslated intentionally. The Russian word gosudarstvennost was translated by practically all Eng-

lish-language media as “statehood”. While this translation is not entirely incorrect, it is not precise, especially in the context in which Putin used it. In this way, translating the word as they did proved to be misleading. Gosudarstvennost is the noun form of the adjective gosudarstvennii (meaning “governmental” or “of the state or nation”), which in turn derives from the word gosudarstvo, meaning“government” or “state/nation”. In the two most-quoted 20th-century Russian dictionaries (Ushakov and Ozhegov), as well as in the most popular 21st-century Yefremova dictionary, gosudarstvennost signifies a government or state system; a government or state organisation; or simply political order. In Russian, therefore, the word gosudarstvennost can mean two things: the organisation of a government, its effectiveness or viability – in short, governance; or the organisation of a state or nation and its statehood. The fact that this word does have two meanings

IORSH

PRECISION IS LOST IN TRANSLATION

prompted Russian journalists to ask the Kremlin to clarify Putin’s statement. Presidential spokesman Dmitry Peskov then explained that Putin was not talking about the statehood of southeastern Ukraine. He clarified that he was talking about inclusive negotiations, that would involve all parties in the conflict and take into consideration everyone’s in-

terests, and that would lead to order in and the stabilisation of the region. This was something that Putin had already discussed with the Ukrainian president, as part of what Putin said had to be a peaceful solution to the crisis. Nevertheless, the English-language media chose to translate the word in this context as “statehood”, not as“governance”or as“gov-

WHY STUDY RUSSIAN? IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT POLITICS Ivan Savvine TEACHER

here is a popular belief that in the United States, interest in all things Russian, and in particular the Russian language, peaks at times of crisis between the Kremlin and the White House. As someone who has taught Russian in the United States for some time, I can say that my experience has shown that the reasons people study Russian are not so simplistic. Teaching Russian at a time when major media outlets are happily predicting a new Cold War, if not World War III, is both a curious and an enlightening

endeavour. Why are my students studying Russian, right here, in NewYork, and right now, in 2014, in the context of heated animosity between the governments of the Russian Federation and the United States? I asked them. Here are some of their responses:“I’m learning Russian to better understand and connect with the Russian novels I love, and to one day read them in the original language. My favourite has always been The Brothers Karamazov, but the subtlety of Anna Karenina is slowly revealing itself to me and I think that book might have even more to offer. I have a whole list of others I have yet to read, they are such a challenge!”

“I have Russian relatives on my father’s side, but I never learned to speak Russian with them. Three years ago, I met an extraordinary Russian woman. I started to learn Russian, and then

bourhood, just as our friendship began to become more romantic....” “Last year I was thinking about what new journalism skills to pick up, what would be interesting

I’m learning Russian to better understand and connect with the Russian novels

Nevertheless, Russian language remains a key player on the world’s linguistic map

one of my jobs decided also to cater to Russian people, and asked more staff to learn Russian. Other business opportunities began opening up, and I moved into my friend’s apartment building in a Russian neigh-

to me and also potentially open doors to new kinds of assignments. At the same time, I was researching some story ideas involving the Arctic, climate change and resource development. I realised there was next to

ernmental organisation”. Statehood means the status of being recognised as an independent nation. Therefore, by using the term to translate Putin’s words, the media conveyed the meaning that Russia’s president was supporting independence for the Donbass – which he wasn’t. Even after Peskov clarified the matter, and that clarification was reported

no coverage of contemporary Russian science and environmental issues in the American press – and here I was with 7-8 years of Russian language study floating around somewhere in my brain. My hope is that having some skills in a second language will give me a professional edge.” To put these motivations into perspective, I spoke to Kevin Moss of Middlebury College inVermont, who has taught Russian there since 1983: “Enrolments were very high in the 1980s and early 1990s, and then dropped when Russia was no longer the Evil Empire. Another drop came after 9/11, when attention and the Federal money shifted to Arabic. Historically, things like the 1991 coup and the war with Georgia have helped, especially if they come in August, right before the students arrive. I suspect Sochi and the Ukraine/Crimea crisis will give us another spike this

by the English-language media, headlines still read: “Putin talks about statehood for eastern Ukraine”, “Putin urges statehood talks on eastern Ukraine”, “Putin urges Kiev to enter statehood talks for southeast Ukraine” and so on. The New York Times called Putin’s expression“a vague and provocative turn of phrase”. But if it were meant to be vague and provocative, why would the presidential spokesman immediately clarify what had been said, making it perfectly clear that Putin had not meant statehood in the sense of an independent state? Misunderstandings are common when information has been translated from one language to another. And the “Donbass statehood” issue is not the first case of a Western misreading of a Russian statement. Sergei Tseytlin is a freelance writer and translator who was born in Moscow and grew up in New York. He has been living in Italy for the past 16 years. His collection of stories have been published in Italy.

fall, as it’s clear the US defunding of Russian expertise was premature.” Congress eliminated funding for the State Department’s Title VIII programme, which provided grants for the study of Russia and the former Soviet bloc, last October. Nevertheless, the Russian language remains a key player on the world’s linguistic map: an estimated 255 to 285 million people speak it. While it is true that today’s geopolitical scene will keep the demand for certain linguistic skills fluctuating, I have come to believe from my own experience that certain aspects of the Russian culture, and in particular the language that continues to form it, will remain in constant demand among the open-minded and intellectually astute. Ivan Savvine is an art historian and writer as well as a teacher. He was raised in St Petersburg.

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Buddhism St Petersburg is one of modern Russia’s centres for Buddhism

Living the austere life in a monastery

100 years a home to the spirituality of the East

SPECIAL TO RBTH

Buddhism has been strongly entrenched in St Petersburg for a long time. The most important Buddhist place in the city is the famous Datsan Gunzechoinei, located on the banks of the Bolshaya Neva. It is a tiny piece of Tibet in the heart of the northern capital. Although it received special attention from the Dalai Lama XIII and despite the intentions of the Russian imperial authorities to bring Tibet under its protection, the construction of a Buddhist temple in St Petersburg faced many obstacles. Christian clergymen protested, the Black Hundreds threatened to disrupt construction, authorities froze the construction permit so money was always short, and the tsar’s intelligence agencies suspected the Buddhist centre to be an outpost of the Japanese intelligence. But work progressed. In 1905, Nicholas II issued an edict of toleration, banning official texts from calling Buddhists idolaters or pagans. After great difficulty, the datsan was eventually built but then it was plunged into the revolution, civil war and repression of the clergy

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under the communists. The temple itself has survived with just a bullet to theVictorious Banner, a gold plated cylinder on its roof. During the second world war, radio broadcasting transmitters operated inside the datsan with antennas run out of a barrage balloon. Around the same time, a Buddhist swastika was removed from the floor of the temple near its entrance. Today, there is a hole which has been patched with tiles. After the war, the building became a jamming station for enemy radios, and then became a department of the zoological institute. After the renovation of the temple, services began to be held again, and now the temple is full of activity. A Buryatian culture centre occupies two rooms, where children can learn traditional songs and dances. Kalmyks, Tuvans, Altai people and anyone interested in the spirituality of the East come here. Classes on meditation and lectures on Zen Buddhism are also conducted. A Thai teacher also holds classes on Theravada. Near the main statue of a seated Buddha stands a small Buddha, which was given to the temple by the King of Siam one hundred years ago. The walls in the dugan (the main hall) are decorated with mosaics of deities and bodhisattvas completed only a few years ago. The use of hard materials is new for Buddhism as usually, these kinds of ima-

Currently, the number of inhabitants in the cloister consists of six people: A Russian, a Moldovan, a Serb, and two Laotians. “There are very few people who are willing to devote themselves to the monastic life,” says Father Oleg, “as in the Orthodox tradition – unlike in Buddhism – the monastic vows are taken for life. If a monk leaves a monastery and resigns from being a monk, we consider it one of the greatest sins. We try to preserve the atmosphere that prevails in the monastery, and thus we are not seeking to take in more people.” “Strict rules prevail in the monastery – no television or computers, no personal phones, so that a man, who has retired from the world, can in pure prayer devote himself to God.” While there are no nearby parishioners in Ratchaburi, many people do visit the monastery, and the monastery itself does not live in misery, and even assists other Orthodox parishes. There are also philanthropists who support the Orthodox Church Foundation in Thailand and help to organise pilgrimages to the monastery.

Datsan Gunzechoinei in St Petersburg celebrates 100 years in 2015.

The Stupa of Enlightenment The Stupa of Enlightenment was built two years ago. The Dzogchen retreat centre is also set to be constructed with a guest house as well as places for study and meditation. For now, the land remains a private site consisting of 50 square metres of the Rainbow Buddhist horticultural garden about 15 kilometres from St Petersburg. “Buddhists from different cities and even countries have helped us build everything here. After all, everything should be done according to certain rules, starting with the selection of the site,” explains Talya Turdubekova, the centre’s organiser. She and her husband Konstantin bought land in the Vsevolozhsk region and built the centre almost entirely at their own expense.

In the basement of the building, there is a cafe that serves traditional BuryatMongolian dishes

THE SKY: AN EYE IN ERAS M AERIAL CA RE FA R A W D AN /4 0 02 1 rbth .co m

ges are made in soft fabric. However, in the cold and damp conditions of St Petersburg, Buddhist fabrics don’t last long. In the courtyard in front of the datsan’s entrance grow mighty Siberian larches brought from Buryatia. Prayer wheels with mantras inside sit alongside the trees and are surrounded by scattered coins left by believers. “Do not leave money on the prayer wheels or throw it into the courtyard”,warns the head of the datsan’s press service Anna Namsareva. “They are sometimes picked up by those who like to drink or children out of ignorance and this disturbs their karma. It is better instead to use rice or corn.” In the courtyard it is possible to improve your karma by walking around the temple in a clockwise direction rotating the prayer wheels as you go. For success in business and prosperity, stick a hand into the mouth of one of the Chinese lions guarding the entrance, and rotate the stone ball inside. Usually shoes have to be removed at the entrances of Buddhist temples. In St Petersburg, however, allowances are made for the congregation and it is pos-

sible to buy five-ruble plastic covers that can be worn around your shoes. In addition to communal prayer, monk astrologers also work at the datsan. They give useful advice and conduct protective rituals. At a souvenir stall near the entrance, it is possible to buy astrological calendars for every day. They even state what day you should travel or get a haircut. “Honestly, I don’t pay attention to those, but instead am guided by a master”,says Anna. Her hair is perfect. “Fanaticism appeals to no one. In Buddhism, the middle path has been adopted.” In the basement of the building, there is a cafe that serves traditional BuryatMongolian dishes. Large ravioli or buuz come in the form of small yurts, and are served with slightly salty milk tea. This kind of food gives the nomads strength and warmth, fitting for a cold St Petersburg as well. On a wooden walkway in the datsan, one of the monks lifts a 32kg weight. A healthy body leads to a healthy mind. One cannot exist without the other. There is no fanaticism, only balance.

LEGACY: CRIMEA’S S, WAR A LA BALAC V DENTS AND N RY CORRESPO SIAN RIVALR S U -R LO G AN 5 6 6 /39 rrbth .co m

PRESS PHOTO

GRIGORY KUBATIAN

IRINA VINOKUROVA

PRESS PHOTO

Buddhism was incorporated into Russia as early as the 17th century but what presence of the religion is left in the northern capital today?

Holy Dormition Monastery, in Ratchaburi, is the only Orthodox monastery in Southeast Asia.

Monks can’t use phones.

TO VOURITES ROYAL FA HE T : S ST OUTCA FATE OF CHANGING DDHISTS U B N IA S S RU /39 419 rrbth .co m

RUSSIA BEYOND THE HEADLINES

History

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Nicholas II The last Russian emperor was the first tsar to travel to countries in the Far East

Nicholas II covered 51,000 kilometres, including about 15,000km by railway and 22,000km by sea over about 290 days.

The great eastern journey of Nicholas II Despite the embarrassment of failing to hunt a tiger in India and almost getting his head chopped off in Japan, the future tsar had a grand old time out East. JOE CRESCENTE SPECIAL TO RBTH

Nicholas II, the future Emperor, was the first and only tsar to visit Siberia and the Russian Far East. Taking the journey several years before ascending the throne, Nicholas II covered approximately 51,000 kilometres, including about 15,000km by railway and 22,000km by sea over about 290 days. One major impetus for this trip was Alexander III’s (Nicholas’s father) decision to establish the Trans-Siberian Railway. He wanted a member of the royal family to be present for the opening ceremony in Vladivostok. The trip was planned by the general staff and the Holy Synod, the supreme governing body of the Russian Orthodox Church. The heir apparent embarked with an entourage on Oc-

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tober 23, 1890 (old calendar) from Gatchina. His main companion was Prince Esper Ukhtomsky, a friend of the heir to the throne and official historian of the journey, but was also joined by his sickly younger brother, Grand Duke George. It was hoped that George’s health would benefit from the sun and sea air. The delegation went first by train to Vienna and then Trieste where they boarded the warship, The Memory of Azov. The next stop was the Greek port city of Piraeus where Nicholas met his uncle, King George I of Greece. The King’s son, Prince George of Greece and Denmark, joined the delegation here. They went next to Egypt, with Nicholas and much of the crew touring the Nile and the pyramids, while the ship passed through the Suez Canal. From there they sailed to India arriving in Bombay on December 11. It was here that Nicholas’s younger brother turned back as he

had become ill. While in India, Nicholas visited many of India’s main sites including the Taj Mahal and the Golden Temple. He met with rajas, went hunting, but was largely unsuccessful (whereas two prin-

From there, the journey continued on to Singapore, where according to local accounts Nicholas’s visit created quite a stir. Then it was on to today’s Indonesia and Thailand, where Nicholas spent a week as a guest of

Then it was on to Thailand, where Nicholas spent a week as a guest of King Rama V

It seemed that whatever the Nicholas II touched was gold, at least on this trip

ces that accompanied him bagged a tiger each), and bought numerous artworks, many of which can be found today in Russian museums. It was said that the future tsar did not enjoy India as the heat was intense and he couldn’t stand the sight of British redcoats, reminders of Russia’s strained relations with Britain.The Indian portion of the journey culminated with a visit to the island of Ceylon, where one of the highlights was a show featuring 30 to 40 elephants and “devil dancers”.

King Rama V. Afterwards he made a port of call in China. It was in Japan that perhaps the most notable event of the journey took place. Nicholas greatly enjoyed his first days on the island, buying handicrafts and even getting a large tattoo of a dragon on his right arm. He was warmly received, as the Japanese were interested in bettering relations with Russia. However, on April 29, in Otsu, he was attacked by Tsuda Sanzo, a policeman assigned to protect him. Sanzo took a

OSSMAN’S VASILY GR M FATE: FRO AD AND R G N LI A S ST EST TO THE W IA N E ARM 55 0 0 / /4 m o rrbth .c

stab at Nicholas’s face, leaving him with a 9cm scar on the right side of his forehead. The second thrust was blocked by his cousin’s cane. His life was never in danger. Theories vary although xenophobia is largely considered Sanzo’s motivation. The emperor rushed to meet the future tsar. Japan was no match militarily for Russia at the time and feared provoking the government into war. Three Japanese princes accompanied Nicholas as escorts as he left. The entourage arrived at Vladivostok on May 11 and after commencing with the official ceremony, they left the Memory of Azov behind and travelled overland and by riverboat through all of Russia. They first went north, stopping at Khabarovsk and then on to Blagoveshchensk, where an enormous arc dedicated to the visit still remains. Next on the itinerary were the Eastern Siberian cities of Nerchinsk, Chita and Irkutsk. He next arrived in Tomsk. This visit is clouded in secrecy, as even Ukhtomsky, the chronicler, is uncharacteristically silent on what Nicholas did in the evening. Rumor has it that he secretly visited the cell of Theodore the Elder, a mystic that mysteriously arrived in Tomsk in 1837. From Tomsk, the journey continued to Surgut, Tobolsk, Tara, Omsk and Orenburg, before returning to St Petersburg by train. In many ways this trip was more important for what it brought the Russian interior. For example, the future tsar spent one night in Tomsk and yet it received funds for Tomsk Polytechnic University and the opening of a spiritual academy in the coming years. A monastic workshop there received orders from the Imperial Court for the next 20 years. It seemed that whatever the tsar touched was gold, at least on this trip.

E BOOKS I’D ‘THESE AR RE WITH A LIKE TO SH AN IC R E M A THE ’ AUDIENCE 97 7 1 //3 rrbth .co m

BOOK

Travels in the East

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TITLE: TRAVELS IN THE EAST OF HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY CZAR NICHOLAS II OF RUSSIA AUTHOR: ESPER UKHTOMSKY PUBLISHED: IN 1895

The book Travels in the East of His Imperial Majesty Czar Nicholas II of Russia became a bestseller at the time. There are several very interesting chapters in the book about Nicholas’s historic visit to Thailand. We must remember that before Esper Ukhtomsky, there had been no special publications on Thailand in Russia, so his story was full of details – from the descriptions of the economy and country’s geography to the court traditions and history of the country. Here is how Ukhtomsky begins the chapter on Bangkok: “The natural wealth and potential prosperity of the country on the Chao Phraya River and the lands surrounding and dependent on it is very great. Gold, silver, precious stones, iron, tin, coal, quality wood, rice, spices, and fruit are found in inexhaustible abundance - not only for the modest needs of the people, who until recently were content with using sea shells as currency, but also for export on a vast scale. Three-quarters of the territory of the state is uncultivated and covered in jungle, awaiting a ploughman.”

IAN THE RUSS O H WRITER W WELL OR INSPIRED Y AND HUXLE 9935 /3 rrbth .co m

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Kronstadt The city was built in 1703 and was meant to protect the approaches to St Petersburg from Sweden

Explore this curious, quiet getaway KONSTANTIN BUDARIN SPECIAL TO RBTH

Kronstadt, in many respects is similar to St Petersburg; here we find the same rigorous grid of streets, also being dominated by classic buildings. Nevertheless, many things in this city are found only in Kronstadt. Kronstadt is strikingly different from other suburbs of St Petersburg. Peterhof, Pushkin, Pavlovsk, and Gatchina were built as places of recreation and entertainment for the royal family. Kronstadt, on the contrary, was built “for serious business”. For a long time, the city was the main military base of the Baltic Fleet, and sailors and their families still make up a significant part of the population of Kronstadt. A trip to Kronstadt is a perfect getaway for those who have had their fill of Petersburg’s most celebrated landmarks. The fresh sea air, unpretentious architecture and romantic forts are a world away from the brightness of the Peterhof fountains, the colourful mosaics of the Church of the Saviour on Blood and the shine of the brand new Amber Room.

A stroll around the city When strolling in the city, it makes sense to divide the city into two parts. The first walk will be

devoted directly to the city, while the second will include its surroundings and visits to the city’s sea forts. The best place to start exploring the city is the Kronstadt Naval Cathedral. The golden dome of this church can be seen from almost anywhere in Kronstadt, while it is comparable with Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia in size. Finding it is not difficult at all. This recently restored cathedral has essentially become the primary tourist attraction of Kronstadt. Built in 1913 by architect Vasily Kosyakov in the neo-Byzantine style, the cathedral explicitly represents the greatness of the Baltic Fleet. Petrovsky Dock, needed to carry out repairs to ships, was built during Peter’s reign, with the active participation of the sovereign himself. The ship enters the dock, after which the water, through a system of locks, is lowered into a special pool. This lock system is especially remarkable – with its help, the dock can be completely drained in just a few hours, something that has made an indelible impression on visiting foreigners. Pumping out of the water in similar Western docks took weeks to achieve. Surprisingly, even in the 1980s, seamen used this dock for its intended purpose. It was used to make repairs to small warships. Now it lies in neglect, just like the entire territory of

FACTS ABOUT THE CITY

The foundations of the Kronshlot Fort were built during the winter, and used ingenious techniques. They built small wooden cabins right on top of the ice that covered the bay, and then filled them with heavy boulders. Under their own weight, these constructions sank to the bottom.

After Kronshlot, the city was actively built up and developed. Peter even considered moving the capital of Russia to the Island.

The historic centre of the city and its fortifications are part of the World Heritage Site Saint Petersburg and Related Groups of Monuments.

the Admiralty. Once finally in the park, one must go and see the monument to Peter the Great, by the sculptor Jacques Theodore-Napoleon, made on the orders of Nicholas I and installed in 1841. From this monument, you can move on to the granite Petrovsky Pier, opened in 1882. T h e g a s t ro n o my o f Kronstadt is not too refined, and this indicates that the city is still living for the needs of the local population. The city’s main eating spots are concentrated in the centre, within walking distance of the Naval Cathedral. For Chinese food, the Zolotoi Lev at 45 Prospekt Lenina serves pig ears, roasted pineapple and chicken heart soup. The average cheque is 1,000 rubles ($28). A little further, at 57 Prospekt Lenina, is the Mario Restaurant, offering a hodgepodge of Italian and Japanese cuisine. The interior is bright- ened by vaulted cei-

lings. Expect to pay from 500-1,500 rubles ($14-42). If you see food not as an urgent need, but as an adventure, it’s worth visiting the Austeriya at 43 Sovietskaya Street. This Kronstadt mainstay combines a noble interior with crazy neon lights and plastic plants. This is an authentic place where locals come to relax. The menu has the standard central Russian selection – pelmeni, solyanka, borscht. Though the clientele is a little wild, they nevertheless prepare the meals well here. The check here will come to 500-1500 rubles ($14-42).

Beyond the city and out to sea For the first part of the afternoon’s exploring, take a taxi to the Schantz Fort at the western tip of the island. The fort was built in 1706 and later rebuilt and reorganised several times. In 1930, the military guns were removed and a command post was placed in the fort. Now the fort is empty, and the residents of Kronstadt come to its grassy ramparts for picnics and barbeque shashlyk. After passing through the Schantz Fort, you find yourself on a marshy strip of land stretching several kilometres towards the Gulf of Finland. In 2012, this part of the island was turned into a nature reserve. Environmentalists were attracted by the alder forests, nes-

ting sites and stopovers of numerous birds migrating along the White Sea-Baltic Sea route.The island is crossed by the northern Kronstadt Road leading to the Rif Fort. The road makes for a long walk over the marshes and swamps. Alternatively, take a ride out to sea. Right from the Petrovsky Pier, tour boats offer sightseeing trips on the Gulf of Finland. Such trips are relatively inexpensive – about 400 rubles ($11) per person. If possible, it is best to come to the pier at 3.30pm or 5.30pm, as at this time the ship Reeperbahn departs from the pier. The ship was built in the 1950s in Hamburg and was named in honour of the city’s famous red-light district. Standard itinerary includes the Kronshlot Fort, the Peter I Fort, the Alexander 1 Fort, the Milutin Fort, and the final land fortress, the Konstantin Fort.You can land at the Alexander I Fort, while all the other fortresses can be viewed only from the water. The Alexander I Fort is perhaps the most famous fortress in the waters of the Gulf of Finland. The black granite cylindrical edifice completely occupies a small artificial island. Built in the mid-19th century, for fifty years the fort served as a military facility, then later housed a plague laboratory. In the 2000s a rave party called Fort Dance was held annually at the Alexander I Fort, and was one of St Petersburg’s most eagerly awaited events.

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With its fresh air, its array of forts and naval history, Kronstadt is an ideal day trip from St Petersburg for those suffering from palace fatigue.

The Naval Cathedral can be seen from almost anywhere.

RUSSIA BEYOND THE HEADLINES

Travel

A global media project, sponsored by Rossiyskaya Gazeta (Russia) www.rbth.com

Moscow The city has places for melody and harmony

Many places offer classical music performances of the highest quality at prices that are still among the lowest in the city. ALINA IVANOVA-SKRYABINA SPECIAL TO RBTH

These days it is harder and harder to get a free pass to a classical music concert in Moscow. The underlying reason for that is a new cultural policy of Russia, which goes along with the statement that museums should bring in an income. However, there are still some places where you can enjoy the art of a Russian pianist school for free.

Tchaikovsky Moscow State Conservatory A higher musical university in Moscow offers a great variety of concert programmes. A lot of them have free entrance in the Small Hall and Rakhmaninovsky Hall, so it is an opportunity of a lifetime to get acquainted with incredible Russian musicians in the historical building where Sergei Rachmaninoff and Alexander Scriabin studied. It is possible to visit

the international organ and violin or wind and percussion music festivals. Most of all, these concerts are conducted by young musicians who support their classes. Despite their age, they give highly professional performances. BOLSHAYA NIKITSKAYA STREET, 13/6. › http://www.mosconsv.ru/en/

Gnesins Russian Academy of Music Musical and pedagogical institution of higher education in Moscow invites music fans to its students’ concerts.Young musicians play the violin, double bass, piano with choral arrangements as well as using wind and percussion instruments. The Gnesins college also has a concert hall where students carry out performance practice. Concerts are held in the evening on weekdays and in the morning at the weekends. Entry is totally free. POVARSKAYA ST, 30/36 › http://gnesin-academy.ru/

A Losev house In some of the museums there are special pro-

grammes aimed at popularising classical music.You pay only for entrance to the museum and the concert itself is free. It goes without saying that the museum ticket costs nothing (about 100-200 rubles) in comparison to the price of a ticket at a concert performed by Moscow Conservatory or Moscow Philharmonic Society. You can attend professional chamber music concerts about twice a month in the Library of history of Russian philosophy and culture - A Losev house (Losev was a Russian philosopher, philologist and culturologist who lived in the 20th century). However, before visiting, it is important to register in order to participate in all of the library’s events. ARBAT STREET, 33. › http://www.losev-library.ru/

MA Bulgakov’s museum Piano concerts take place in MABulgakov museum (Bulgakov was a Russian writer, best known for his novel The Master and Margarita). The society of classical music fans organised the museum event and in-

Gorky park An autumn selfie on Instagram is guaranteed to all visitors to Gorky Park. There is free access to WiFi in the park along with stands for charging laptops and cellphones. And with a little luck, it’s also possible to get that perfect shot of falling leaves dancing right on the bank of the Moscow River. Walking and cycling paths connect Gorky Park with Sparrow Hills, where visitors can enjoy the autumn colours from the high banks of the river.

The Botanical Garden The pearl of the Botanical Garden is the Japanese garden, arranged according to traditions of Japanese national landscape art. It is the best place in Moscow for solitary contemplation of the harmony of nature. It also creates the ideal opportunity to practice Momijigari, the traditional Japanese custom of admiring maples. The Manchurian maples, gingkoes, spindles and chestnuts bring autum colours and create beautiful reflections in the garden ponds.

Kolomenskoye The old Dyakovo, Kazansky and Ascension apple orchards are symbols of Kolomenskoye. These orchards, located at the highest part of the park, provide the single most wonderful view of Moscow River in the whole city. Here, visitors can almost taste the sweet smell of ageing foliage. Few places in the city are more pleasant than the apple orchards located in Kolomenskoye Park. Use the free panoramic binoculars on Ascension Square!

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Treat yourself to some great music

Piano concerts are held in the museum of Russian poet Marina Tsvetaeva.

vite everyone to come and enjoy classical music, 20th century music or jazz in the mysterious atmosphere of Bulgakov’s house. BOLSHAYA SADOVAYA ST, 10. › http://bulgakovmuseum.ru

Museum of Marina Tsvetaeva About twice a month, piano concerts are held in the museum of Russian poet Marina Tsvetaeva. If you are eager to listen to the music you will need to pay an entrance fee of around 100200 rubles. However, every third Sunday of month the museum has free entrance for all visitors. BORISOGLEBSKY LANE, 6, P. 1. › http://www.dommuseum.ru

Moscow today is one of the greenest mega-cities in the world. There are more than 50 places where visitors can enjoy the fall colours. If you happen to be in the Russian capital – here are some of the most beautiful autumn spots

A VISITOR’S GUIDE TO THE BEST PLACES TO EXPERIENCE MOSCOW IN THE AUTUMN.

T R AV E L 2 M O S C O W. C O M

Feodor Shalyapin’s Memorial estate

modernist music of the 20th century.

One of the few preserved Moscow city estates of the 18th century established an Opera Club that offers music concerts by masters of the arts and young performers, as well as festivals and opera singing competitions.

TVERSKAYA ST., 17. › http://www.glinka.museum

NOVINSKY BOULEVARD, 25. › http://www.shalyapin-museum. org

Museum of Alexander Goldenweiser The Museum of Alexander Goldenweiser (pianist, composer, rector of the Moscow conservatory) arranges different piano concerts of classical music and

Virtual Philarmonic Society Moscow Philharmonic Society presents a new project - Virtual Philarmonic Society. On the website you can watch online broadcasts from every event at home for free. And though the recording of a concert cannot compare to the atmosphere of a concert hall, it will help you to feel part of the musical events in Russia and of course enjoy the charming music. › http://meloman.ru/webcasts/

Izmailovsky Park Unlike many of Moscow’s parks and estates, Izmailovsky Park is not formally landscaped, which gives it the natural appearance of a real forest, complete with tree branches and old stumps covered in moss. Park-goers can feel the crackle of fallen leaves under their feet as they walk and pause to gather beautiful bouquets of autumn foliage. The Izmailovsky Park grounds cover more than 700 acres, so it is best to rent a bicycle.

Tsaritsyno It is the only English-style landscaped park in Moscow. Tsaritsyno has a rare and wonderful colour spectrum, combining red brick with white stone ornaments for vivid contrast. Pseudo-Gothic palaces, pavilions, arches, and lacework bridges set the stage for magnificent autumn vistas. In autumn, it gets dark early, and one can have a lovely time at Tsaritsyno sitting with friends and watching the music fountain on Horseshoe Island.

Kuskovo Estate The French formal garden decorated with marble sculptures of mythological characters, as well as a preserved summer palace with authentic interiors and porcelain collections, make this estate a worthwhile place to visit. There is no better spot in Moscow for admiring the vibrant colours of the autumn landscape. It is a treat to escape to this beautiful location on the weekend, especially in the early fall, when the trees and shrubs on the site are painted in all of the brightest colours.

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Food

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ITAR-TASS (3)

History In the times of the USSR, Soviet leaders had a chance to eat everything they wanted, unlike the population

One of Leonid Brezhnev’s passions was hunting, followed by a good meal. Nikita Khrushchev liked a good steak.

Mikhail Gorbachev had a tendency to gain weight.

Catering to the leaders DMITRY SUKHODOLSKY SPECIAL TO RBTH

Vladimir Lenin was politically savvy, but a complete amateur in the kitchen. In her memoirs, his wife almost never described family meals as“lunch”or“dinner,” but usually used the Russian pitaniye that is more commonly associated with hospital food and diets. Lenin’s contemporaries noted that his only culinary passion was a mug of good beer. The great Bolshevik was born and raised on theVolga where they still brew Zhigulyovskoe beer, which is famous throughout Russia, and he spent many years in exile in Germany, as well as spells in Britain and Switzerland, so he knew a good beer.

A dictator’s table Joseph Stalin didn’t stick to Lenin’s maxims when it came to food. In Georgia, where he was born and where his tastes were formed, they have very rich culinary traditions. Famous Georgian wines, sweets made from dried fruit, pickled cheese, spicy and savoury soups, chicken, beef and lamb dishes – all these diverse delicacies made the Georgian dining table a holiday feast. Stalin didn’t forget about these meals during the years he worked as an underground revolutionary in foreign lands. Stalin had two requirements. First, the waiters didn’t wait on the guests, but brought the first and second courses, appetisers, and desserts to the table, then left. His second idiosyncrasy was that there had to be more than 10 varieties of vodka and brandy on hand, including the famous Kizlyar that Stalin

personally sent Churchill. Stalin himself drank moderately, and always preferred Tsinandali and Teliani, white and red wines from the Kakheti region of Georgia that were made by a different method than European wines.

A good steak “We made a lot of different dishes from meat,” recalls Nikita Khrushchev’s personal chef Anna Dyshkant. “Meat with mushrooms, meat with prunes sweet and sour. He was fond of tenderloin. We made it for him in a special way. We poured oil in the pan, then soaked up some with a cloth so that the pan was half-dry. We tenderised the meat and fried it. ” Nikita loved pirogues just as much (similar to raviolis, but with a vegetarian filling). He preferred them with sauerkraut and onions, cottage cheese and sour cream, or potatoes and cherries. But Khrushchev’s favorite treat

was a hunter’s kulesh – a very filling Cossack dish of millet and pork fat that is a cross between a nourishing soup and stew.

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Joseph Stalin preferred brandy to vodka, Nikita Khrushchev liked a good steak, and Mikhail Gorbachev was served five kinds of porridge.

Luxury stagnation In the culinary history of Russia’s elite, the Leonid Brezhnev era is known for the lobster soup that was revived by the Kremlin chef. This was an old Russian dish that was often served before the revolution in upper class Russian homes, but then was completely forgotten. One of Brezhnev’s passions was hunting. “Every Thursday after Politburo meetings he invited comrades to go hunting. Sometimes the meet i n g s l a s t e d o n ly 4 0 minutes,” recalled KGB Maj-General Mikhail Dokuchaev in an interview with Komsomolskaya Pravda.“Each hunter was given a small case that held 250ml of brandy and sandwiches.” A successful hunting trip

was celebrated with a magnificent feast, at which wild game (mainly wild boar) was the main attraction. Brezhnev’s favourite vodka was Zubrovka, which is Belarusian bitters made from plants grown in Belovezh Reserve.

Perestroika of tastes It is noteworthy that Gorbachev, one of the most unpopular statesmen in modern Russia, ate perhaps more sensibly as president than all his predecessors. He ate a variety of foods, always in small portions. “He had a tendency to gain weight, so he often restrained himself,” said Kremlin chef Anatoly Galkin. “He would ask me to make him a salad. He didn’t want anything

hot, and told me to eat the pastry myself. He loved white seedless grapes, and candied fruits, dates, nuts.” The Soviet president especially loved porridge, and a royal assortment was offered to him. “Buckwheat, pearl barley, whole grain barley ... He especially liked pearl barley from real grain,” continued Galkin. “It had to be cooked for eight hours, but it was worth it. We made him buckwheat in different ways, as a gruel or fluffy, with mushrooms, bacon ... Sometimes he asked for rice or millet porridge.” Today Gorbachev, who is undergoing treatment in Germany, has a much more modest diet on the recommendations of a doctor.

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Discover more about the country’s cuisine and culinary traditions with:

December useful tips from our authors workshops from Delicious TV and recipes from The Soviet Diet Cookbook

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