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Russia-UAE Russia brings the best of its aircraft industry products to Dubai Airshow

Culture Get a glimpse of the most exciting space museums in Moscow

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Monday, November 30, 2015

Tourism If the threat posed by terrorists persists, Russians may abandon their favourite budget holiday destination

Egypt is the second mostpopular destination for Russian tourists. AFP/EASTNEWS

Russian tourists look for alternatives The terrorist attack that brought down the Russian passenger airliner over Egypt on Oct. 31 may divert tourist flows to other countries. The question now is whether the industry will be able to find a substitute. ANNA KUCHMA RBTH

Back on Nov. 6, Russia suspended all flights to Egypt, removing a country that accounted for about a fifth of Russia’s outbound tourism from the list of Russians' potential holiday destinations. “Given Russians’ reduced purchasing power, for our tourists (especially those living in Russia’s European part) Egypt has in effect become the only beach holiday destination in winter, and the current situation does not bode well for the tourist industry,” said Roman Zakharov, editor-in-chief of Flight Line magazine.

Egypt is the second most-popular destination for Russian tourists. According to the Federal Tourist Agency (Rosturism), in 2014, it was visited by 2.5 million Russian holidaymakers. “This year’s top three destinations for Russians, on the strength of the summer season, were Turkey (32 percent of the total number of outbound tourists), Egypt (19 percent), and Greece (12 percent),” said Yekaterina Bezhanova from Onlinetours.ru. According to Rosturism, in the first six months of 2015, the top three destinations were Egypt, Thailand, and Germany, with the UAE coming in fourth (in the first six months of the year, it was visited by 107,000 Russian tourists, a quarter of the number going to Egypt). In the autumn-winter season this year, Egypt was expected to become an absolute leader. According to Bezhanova, by November

2015 (before the Sinai attack), it accounted for 40 percent of outbound tourism, and could have reached 50 percent. According to data of the Russian Tourist Industry Union, some 140,000 trips to Egypt have already been sold for the period to March 2016.

The UAE remains at least 50 percent more expensive than Egypt, making it considerably less attractive. In market participants’ estimates, overall losses caused by the ban on flights to Egypt may amount to over $300 million. This is not the first time that the Russian tourist industry has come up with problems when it comes to Egypt. In January 2011,

when the Arab Spring started, flights were suspended for two months. In August 2013, because of a new political crisis in Egypt, flights were suspended for three months. However, once the bans were lifted, tourist flows to the country quickly picked up. Yet now the situation may take a different turn. “Until now, the proverbial ‘fearlessness’ of Russian tourists prevailed. We are always reluctant to abandon our favorite resorts, and return there very quickly," said Roman Zakharov. "However, this time the fear of flying is stronger. If the threat posed by terrorists is confirmed, Russians will act rationally and will refrain from travelling to Egypt.” In this situation, the only way out for tour operators is to offer other destinations to their clients or ask them to postpone their trip.

Where will Russians go now? Industry insiders expected that for many Russians, the main alternative to Egypt would be Turkey. However, after the the downing of the Russian Su-24 bomber all leading Russian tour operators have suspended the sale of tours to Turkey at the recommendations of the Foreign Ministry and the Federal Agency for Tourism. Another option is offered by beach resorts in Southeast Asia: Sri Lanka, Thailand and Vietnam. “For Russians living beyond the Urals or in the Far East, a trip to Vietnam or, for example, to China’s Hainan may be even cheaper than Egypt,” said a source at the Rambler.Travel service. “Interest in the UAE has overall grown by 13 percent. For example, Sharjah has seen a rise in search queries of 55 percent,”said Mikhail Sokolov from the OneTwoTrip company.Yet the UAE re-

TRAVEL BEYOND YOUR IMAGINATION Destinati ons: • Five unbe atable loca tions to watch the sunset on • Siberia’s Lake Baika northern l desert: ho sands, taig t • Russia’s a and mosquitoes most spec tacular sk resorts i

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mains at least 50 percent more expensive than Egypt, making it considerably less attractive. Israel too has joined in the competition for Russian tourists. Its Tourism Ministry has offered to subsidise charter flights from Russia to the tune of 45 euros per person, which translates into 21 percent of the cost of a flight. Another potential beneficiary of “the ban on” Egypt is domestic tourism, especially when it comes to summer holidays. “Some Russians will go to the Black Sea coast instead of Egypt. Yet Crimea will definitely not become a second Egypt,” said Yekaterina Bezhanova. The main obstacles are the allinclusive system that is so beloved of Russians and that Sochi and Crimea hardly ever offer, and the climate, which limits the appeal of Russian resorts to summer and early autumn.

Gems: • Kostroma: the home of Russia’s Snegurochka, the snow maiden • Yakutia’s frozen heart: mammoths, chilled vodka and the lord of cold: • Paris, Berlin, Leipzig and other Russian villages

Tours: • Five u n Moscow usual tours can’t m you iss • Best w inter tours to package Russia


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Russia-UAE

GULF NEWS_MONDAY_NOVEMBER_30_2015

Technology The Gulf states are showing a growing interest in Russian aircraft and air defence systems

Companies counting on Middle East arms market Russia considers Gulf countries strategic partners in the development of military hardware and civil aviation, with air defence systems, helicopters and Su-35 fighters having the biggest export potential in the region.

sented the Be-200 amphibious aircraft, the Ilyushin Il-76MD-90A military transport aircraft and the Mi-26T2 heavy-lift helicopter.

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According to Sergei Chemezov, potential customers in the UAE are most interested in air defence systems (including the S-400, Antey2500, Buk-M2E,Tor-M2E and Pantsir-S1) and Su-35 fighters. Yet, while the UAE has in effect funded the development of the Pantsir-S1 surface-to-air missile and anti-aircraft artillery system, it would be premature to speak of any specific aircraft contracts. And yet, Chemezov said, Rosoboronexport continues to expand its portfolio of orders: today it is already worth $8 billion and the company plans to increase this figure to $12.5 billion in the near future. "Military sales to the Middle East and North African countries are on the rise. We see a growing interest in aircraft and air defence systems and hope to step up cooperation in those segments. Russian airplanes and helicopters have proven their effectiveness in the course of large-scale anti-terror operations all over the world," explained Mikhail Zavaly, an adviser to the Rosoboronexport general director. The Helicopters of Russia company presented its latest medium multirole Mi-171A2 helicopter to-

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Participants and visitors to the 2015 Dubai Airshow from Nov. 8-12 had a chance to see a wide range of Russian civilian and military harware. Russia had 23 companies at the airshow, which presented over 200 pieces of hardware and their latest designs, from multirole fighters to surveillance and communication systems. Their collective stand was run by the Russian Technologies (Rostec) state corporation. Its management sees the Middle East as a whole and Gulf countries in particular as a key market.“The Arab region has always been attractive for us," said Rostec head Sergei Chemezov. "The list of our partners here includes the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Egypt and other countries of the region." One of the most impressive stands at the airshow was that of Rosoboronexport, featuring the Yak-130 combat trainer aircraft, the Sukhoi Su-35 multipurpose fighter and the MiG-29M2 multirole fighter aircraft, as well as the Mi-171Sh, Ka-52 and Mi-35M combat and transport helicopters. The Russian exposition also pre-

© EVGENY BIYATOV / RIA NOVOSTI

Fighters and air defence systems on top of the shopping list

The Sukhoi Superjet, the most successful project of the Russian civil aircraft industry, was on display during the airshow.

Cooperation on the ground In November 2013, the Rostec corporation signed a cooperation agreement with a UAE holding company, TAWAZUN, and later set up a joint venture to produce ammunition, including for BMP-3 infantry fighting vehicles.

gether with the light multirole Ansat helicopter in VIP configuration and the fire-fighting version of the Ka-32A11BC helicopter, with 40 other fire-fighting options, including horizontal water cannons. In February this year, during the IDEX 2015 military-industrial exhibition in Abu Dhabi, Rostec head Chemezov announced that Russia and the UAE were in negotiations about creating a joint helicopter, a high-speed or a heavy one. He also indicated that the Emirates were showing interest in joint production of air defence systems. However, in November no follow-

Russia and the UAE were in negotiations about creating a joint helicopter, a high-speed or a heavy one. up to those projects was announced.

Airliners beat fighter jets Having said that, the Dubai Airshow did generate some new contracts for Russia. For example, the MS-21 airliner has secured its first foreign contract, with Egypt. Over-

all, the Egyptian side plans to purchase 10 aircraft of this class. The contract was signed by the head of the Egyptian holding company KATO Investment, Ibrahim Kamel, and the president of the Irkut corporation, Oleg Demchenko. In addition, Russia has high hopes for the Middle East as a potential market for Sukhoi Superjet 100 middle-range passenger liners. By 2034, it plans to supply some 700 of these aircraft to the region (the company’s annual production capacity is 60 aircraft). Talks are already under way with Egypt, Iran, Saudi Arabia, Qatar and Oman.

Culture International book fair brings exhibition of Russian literature and new translations to the UAE

Sharjah shines spotlight on Russian books The international book fair that was held in Sharjah on Nov. 4-14 once again presented a major exhibition of Russian literature and a busy cultural programme for lovers of Russian and Arabic.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Lost in translation At the book fair RBTH had a chance to talk to Dr. Haba Abdullah M. Hasan, who translated into Arabic the classics of Russian literature.

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The Russian stand at the International Book Fair in Sharjah was developed by the General Directorate for International Book Exhibitions and Fairs with support from the Federal Press and Mass Communications Agency. This year it presented Russian classics, children’s, academic and research literature as well as history books and biographies. Special attention was paid to North Caucasus literature, including books on Islam and works devoted to the 70th anniversary of victory in World War II. Books translated into Arabic included Mikhail Bulgakov’s“The Fatal Eggs”,“Heart of a Dog”, and “A Country Doctor’s Notebook,” as well as short stories by Alexander Pushkin translated by Dr. Haba Abdullah M. Hasan, a literary translator from Iraq whose life is closely linked with Russia.

Russian book club in UAE Last year, a Russian Literary Club was set up in the UAE, the first in the region and consisting solely of UAE nationals. “Russian literature is part of the world heritage,

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The Sharjah International Book Fair takes place every November.

and today and tomorrow it will be as topical and relevant as it was yesterday," said the founder of the club, Muhammed Al-Marzuki. "We set up our club a year ago and we have already read Gogol’s 'The Overcoat,' Turgenev’s 'Smoke,' Bulgakov’s 'Master and Margarita,' Lermontov’s 'A Hero of Our Time,' Pushkin’s 'The Captain’s Daughter,' Dostoevsky’s 'Crime and Punishment' and several other books. Having read a book, we get together and discuss it. Unfortunately, many books have to be read in English as they have

not yet been translated into Arabic. We seek to encourage Arab translators to pay more attention to Russian literature.”

Changes afoot During the book fair, the Russian delegation held several masterclasses and discussions, both for Russian and Arabic speakers, devoted to children’s, classical, academic and translated literature. The Russian stand also hosted presentations of the St. Petersburg Book Salon and the Moscow International Book Fair. Sergei Kai-

kin, the director of the Moscow International Book Fair, said that for future Sharjah exhibitions the concept of the Russian stand will be revised, with more attention to be paid to translations and specialist literature, which is traditionally in demand in the region. Kaikin noted that in 2015, for the first time in many years, there was a certain revival on the book market. “The number of customers has increased. Academic literature of all levels, from textbooks to further-education books, is in particular demand," he said.

Dr. Haba, one of the themes highlighted in the exhibition programme is the crisis in translation. What is the current state of affairs with translations of Russian literature into Arabic? There have been fewer translations of Russian literature recently as there is no interest from Moscow. The publishing houses Progress, Raduga, and Mir, which used to publish hundreds of books a year and which were instrumental in promoting Russian literature in the Arab world, have shut down. Whereas the tradition of Russian-Arabic translations is over 200 years old: the first fables by Ivan Krylov were translated into Arabic back in the 19th century. In the 20th century, that tradition was maintained by Arabs from Syria, Lebanon, and the Palestinian Territories. Russian literary translation was at its peak in the 1930s in Egypt. Since the Second World War, Russian books have been translated into Arabic mainly from French or English. However, this

indirect route inevitably affects the accuracy and quality of translation. How difficult is it for Arabs to appreciate Russian literature? Arabs have an affinity with Russian literature: after all, they are now living through a development phase that Russia experienced in the 19th century. They are exercised by the questions that Leo Tolstoy and Fyodor Dostoevsky raised. Incidentally, they are very much interested in translated literature and they are particularly fond of Chekhov. What do you find most challenging in translation? Dialects. For example, Tolstoy’s “Power of Darkness” is written in the dialect of Tula peasants, which most native Russian speakers would probably struggle with. I found that book very hard work. Or, say, proverbs and sayings in Chekhov’s early stories. Those I had to spend a lot of time on. Who is your favourite author? I very much like Nikolai Gogol and Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin. I have translated several of his fairy tales and would like to try my hand at “The History of a Town." As for 20th century authors, it has to be Mikhail Bulgakov. N.R.


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Politics&Economy

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International Moscow uses terrorist targets in Syria as testing ground for new weapons after the bombing of a passenger plane over Egypt

Russia turns to long-range missiles in fight against Daesh © RIA NOVOSTI

Russia has used strategic longdistance bombers for airstrikes against Daesh in Syria for the first time. Russian experts see it as a way of intensifying the air raids. TATYANA RUSAKOVA RBTH

Russia used its strategic long-distance bombers against Daesh for the first time on Nov. 17, striking targets in the Syrian town of Raqqa, the radical organisation’s de facto capital. In the course of the strikes, in a flight that lasted five hours and 20 minutes, the Tu-160 planes covered a distance of 4,510 km, while the strategic Tu-160 and Tu-95MS missile carriers remained in the air for eight hours and 20 minutes and nine hours and 30 minutes, respectively.

New missiles see first use in latest strikes According to the Defence Ministry's press office, the strategic missile carriers launched 34 cruise missiles during the mission, which saw the first combat use of the new X-101 strategic air-launched cruise missiles. The X-101 has a range of 5,500 km. In the last two-three years the Tactical Missile Weaponry Corporation (which includes the Raduga scientific-productive association, the developer of the X-101) has put "about 10 new products" into operation, including long-range missiles, according to the corporation's director Boris Obnosov. According to Obnosov, the corporation is keeping pace with the U.S. in terms of developing long-

The mission saw the first use of the new X-101 strategic air-launched cruise missiles.

range precision tactical weapons and in some fields even has an advantage.

A necessary measure? Observers interviewed by RBTH are of the opinion that the use of long-range aviation against Daesh can be considered an "act of revenge" for the terrorist act that downed the Russian passenger airplane over Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula on Oct. 31, resulting in the deaths of all 224 people aboard.

"The use of long-range aviation is natural and the only way to quickly intensify the airstrikes in Syria,” said independent military expert Anton Lavrov. The Russian aircraft carrier Admiral Kuznetsov could perhaps act as a reserve for Russia's air force in Syria. The ship carries 12 multipurpose MiG-29K fighter jets and 14 heavy Su-33 interceptors. However, currently the carrier is in the Barents Sea and is conducting combat training. However, editor-in-chief of the specialized website Voeniy Paritet (Military Parity) Andrian Nikolayev believes that strategic bombers are being used solely with the aim of creating a demonstrative effect. "In the conditions of international sanctions Moscow must

show its muscles, that is, its capabilities in countering terrorism," he told RBTH. In Nikolayev's view, this is precisely why Russia has decided to replicate the United States' combat experience, sending its Tupolev Tu-160 and Tu-95MS strategic bombers for the massive airstrike. "However, this experience is outdated. Currently, for targeted strikes the West is effectively using the Predator and Reaper armed unmanned aerial vehicles. Russia still does not have attack drones. That is why it must use what it has, even if it's rather extreme," he said.

THE QUOTE

Anton Lavrov INDEPENDENT EXPERT ON THE RUSSIAN MILITARY

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The base and the group in Latakia are now acting with limited capacity. From a military viewpoint, the objectives that would require two dozen strategic bombers simply do not exist in Syria."

"In the conditions of sanctions Moscow must show its muscles," said military expert Andrian Nikolayev.

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Economy Major Middle Eastern sovereign funds have raised $20 billion in long-term investments in Russia

Arab funds stepping up Russian investments According to experts Arab sovereign funds are hedging against falling oil prices by investing in Russia. ANNA KUCHMA

The Kuwait Investment Authority is to invest an additional $500 million in the Russian economy. On Nov. 10, it signed an agreement to that effect with the Russian Direct Investment Fund (RDIF), a special investment fund set up by the Russian government in 2011 to attract foreign investment into fast-growing sectors of the Russian economy. Thus, the amount of Kuwaiti investment in Russian projects will double. The Kuwaiti fund had already invested $500 million in Russia in 2012. “The RDIF is the first and only fund to have raised over $20 billion worth of long-term investment

Growing interest in Russia Arab investors have largely developed an interest in Russian assets due to the falling oil prices. “Increasingly, their national wealth funds are acting as saviours of their economies,”saidVladimir Rozhankovsky, head of research at the Okey Broker investment company. He added that classic investment instruments, like Western stock exchanges, no longer ensure high yields.

THE NUMBERS

$500 million of investments was pledged by the Kuwait Investment Authority in 2012. Now the sum is expected to double.

120 per cent over the course of five to seven years is the estimated return on investments in Russia's economy.

REUTERS

RBTH

in Russia from major Middle East sovereign funds,” a RDIF spokesman told RBTH. Funds from all Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) countries are investing in Russia. RDIF works together with the Mubadala fund from the UAE, the Mumtalakat fund from Bahrain, Qatar Holding, and the Saudi Arabian Public Investment Fund.

Russian President Vladimir Putin held negotiations with Emir of Kuwait Sabah Al-Ahmad Al-Jaber Al-Sabah earlier this month.

The nearly 50-per cent depreciation of the ruble in the second half of 2014 has considerably increased the rate of return offered by industrial projects in Russia, said Pavel Salas, managing director of еТоrо. According to him, over the course of five to seven years, return on investment in Russia may touch 120-130 per cent. Arab funds also look at strategic interests when investing in Russia. “In recent years, Arab

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GLOBALLY SPEAKING GOING EASTWARD

funds have been investing mainly in infrastructure projects and sectors that are related to the processing and transportation of oil,” said Denis Belyaev, partner with DS Law.

Promising sectors For religious reasons, Arab funds cannot invest in certain sectors, such as banking or debt instruments, explained Anton Tabakh, director of regional ratings at the

Read, Watch and Listen to RBTH’s weekly analytical program, featuring three of the most recent high-profile developments in international affairs.

Rusrating rating agency. They mainly invest in transport infrastructure, construction, real estate and retail, he said. “Investment in infrastructure may prove extremely lucrative thanks to China’s Silk Road Initiative, a large part of which will be running through Russian territory," said eToro’s Pavel Salas. Another popular area for investment is high-tech projects and commercial real estate, since the return on investment is higher in these segments in Russia when compared to Europe, said Daniil Karikov, managing partner of the Karikov Group, pointing out that distribution costs are also lower. Arab funds started investing in Russia six years ago. In 2010, UAE port operator Gulftainer set up a $500-million fund for investment in infrastructure projects in partnership with the Rostec state corporation. As a result, Gulftainer became a co-owner of a terminal at the Ust-Luga port near St. Petersburg. Rostec also partnered with the UAE’s Damac development holding to launch a $300-million fund for investment in real estate projects.

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Culture

GULF NEWS_MONDAY_NOVEMBER_30_2015

Theatre Great operas and ballets require unique costumes which become works of art in themselves

Secrets of the Bolshoi workshops Each costume or prop for the operas and ballets performed at the Bolshoi Theatre, from Boris Godunov's coat through Princess Turandot's dress to Carmen's fan, is a work of art in and of itself. SVETLANA SAMODELOVA MOSKOVSKY KOMSOMOLETS

As one can find out by visiting the workshops of the Bolshoi Theatre, not only are the costumes and props produced there examples of the highest craftsmanship, they also serve as keys to the mysteries and superstitions surrounding Russia's prime theatre.

The Bolshoi's art and manufacturing workshop often relies on sketshes made in the 19th century, the Golden Age of Russian ballet.

How to ‘juice up’ a costume and why there is a 'no pictures' rule “Sometimes, a costume's parts do not reflect light in the right way and are thus barely visible to those sitting in the last few rows of the pit. So we have to ‘juice it up’ – that is, revise the initial, minimal details of the costume and add folds and shadows using special paint. This is a part of our operating procedure, so to speak,”said Natalya Aldoshina, head of the women's clothes department at the Bolshoi. Each member of the theatre staff knows taking pictures of costumes before the opening night is a nono, since they are protected by copyright. Furthermore, costume designers believe it to be bad luck to send the excess fabric left after the costumes are finished to the warehouse before the opening night. And another superstition: when delivering the finished costumes, tailors always throw away all the pins that hold the clothes together — it is believed that this way the costumes will not be sent back.

The burden of Boris Godunov’s coat

The tutu: An architectural wonder in its own right Tutus — the multi-layered short rigid skirts integral to a ballerina's costume — are another story. Tutus were originally made of muslin and tarlatan, and they had to be starched prior to a performance. The late Maya Plisetskaya, one of Russia’s greatest ballerinas, once said her first tutu weighed several kil o g r a m s a n d wa s “rough, extrusive, and smelling like kerosene.”Furthermore, the hooks of the bodice were heavy and resembled fishing sinkers. Later, designers began using nylon for tutus, adding a thin steel wire rim to make a firm hoop that supported the layers and held them together. The first tutu of this type was brought to Russia from the UK in 1957 by Plisetskaya her-

5 MUST-READ WORKS BY NOBEL PRIZE WINNER IVAN BUNIN October 22 marked the 145th anniversary of the birth of Ivan Bunin, the first Russian to win the Noble Prize in Literature, and one of the main “White” émigré writers.

Prepared by Alexandra Guzeva

self. The design became standard in Russia for years to come. This changed in 2007, the year tutu makers refer to as a “revolution.”A Bolshoi designer working on a revival of "Le Corsaire" by Marius Petipa decided to use costume sketches from the late 19th century, and tutus were made longer and more “bell-shaped.” And for a later staging of George Balanchine's "Jewels," designers invented an entirely new technology to support tutus. In this way, tutu-making became a separate branch of design, not unlike architecture. New performances meant new costumes, and each dress cutter and tailor at the Bolshoi's workshops mastered the art of tutu-making. Nowadays, creating a single multilayered tutu takes about a day. Each tutu is a unique item made specifically for one ballerina. ”I create the layers, making a fold on each of them, and then I assemble them together around the basis — that is, the panties,” said Tatyana Romanenko, a Bolshoi tailor. “It takes 15 to 28 metres of fabric to make one tutu, even more if we're talking about longer designs, like in 'Le Corsaire.'” Tailors say creating a ballet costume is hard work, as it has to fit perfectly lest it affect the dancer's performance.

The opera "Boris Godunov" is arguably the Bolshoi's most

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“populous”performance in terms of clothes: A total of 900 costumes worth about $1.1 million were created for it. One of them is a sleeveless fur coat fit for a tsar. A label attached reads: “Boris Godunov. Choir performer Dmitry Nekrasov.”The thing feels like it weighs about eight kilograms. ”Fyodor Fyodorovsky, who took part in the 1948 performance, had to wear a coat that was easily 20 kilos,”said one of the tailors.“This lightweight model is courtesy of the so-called 'germinated fabric' invented by art director Pavel Kaplevich. He used a special device to spangle different kinds of fabrics with gold and silver threads, obtaining this vintage look. It looks just like brocade, but it is much lighter. We also use synthetic fur to make costumes less heavy,” he said. This is particularly important considering most costumes for the latest staging of Musorgsky's "Boris Godunov" are supposed to be adorned with numerous jewels. For instance, the character Marina Mnisek's three costumes each have 1,000 jewels on them, and each of the four Boris Godunov coats is decorated with 5,000 precious stones.

Personal mannequins The Bolshoi’s workshop is also packed full of mannequins. Those that have breasts and other curvy overlays sport the costumes of opera singers. Others bear the airy garments of the ballet dancers. Curiously, many artists have their personal mannequin designed to perfectly imitate their build. One such dummy — a particularly delicate and gentle model — belongs to dancer Svetlana Zakharova. It currently sports the costume of Princess Mary from the stage play "A Hero of Our Time" — Zakharova's real prima ballerina costume is currently being repaired.

© VLADIMIR VYATKIN / RIA NOVOSTI

THE GENTLEMAN FROM SAN FRANCISCO (1915) A wealthy nameless gentleman is traveling to Italy on a ship called Atlantis. When he arrives at Capri, he suddenly dies, and his body becomes a burden for everyone – including his family. The critic Abram Derman, a contemporary of Bunin, wrote: “It has been more than 10 years since the end of Chekhov's creativity, and in this period... there has not been an artistic work in the Russian that is equal in power and meaning to the story 'The Gentleman from San Francisco.'”

MITYA'S LOVE (1924)

This story follows Mitya, a student, and the girl he is in love with, Katya, who is studying to become an actress. She is maturing and laughs at his boyishness. Mitya is tormented by his passion and jealousy and leaves Moscow for the countryside in order to understand himself better. However, all does not turn out well there, to say the least. The philosopher Fyodor Stepun, Bunin’s friend, wrote that the author “reveals the tragedy behind every human love” in this story.

CURSED DAYS (1925-26)

Bunin, who supported the Whites in the Civil War, emigrated to France in 1920. His diaries "Cursed Days" reflect this turbulent and complicated period in Russia's history. “But surely many people knew that a revolution is only a bloody game of swapping places that always ends up with ordinary people, even if they do manage to sit, revel and rage on the governing throne for some time, ultimately ending up in a worse situation than before?” Bunin writes in "Cursed Days."

THE LIFE OF ARSENIEV (1927-1933)

In Bunin's opinion, it was this novel, published in Paris in 1930, that led him to receive the Nobel Prize in Literature for the “humble mastery with which he develops the traditions of classical Russian prose.” The novel depicts the childhood and adolescence of Alexei Arseniev and his love for Lika — a love that her father is against. Just like "Mitya’s Love,"you should not read this book if you like your stories to end happily ever after. The novel contains many autobiographical elements.

DARK AVENUES (1938-1946)

One of the most famous stories from the Dark Avenues collection is “Easter Monday," which is about a mysterious love affair and the silent nocturnal encounters between two young rich people. On the first day of Lent, Easter Monday, the young lady tells the protagonist that their affair is over, saying that she is leaving. Two years later he finds out that she is a nun in a Moscow monastery. Bunin himself considered Dark Avenues to be one of his best works.


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Travel

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Travel The Russian capital has plenty to offer those with an interest in galaxies, constellations and space exploration 2

© RUSLAN KRIVOBOK / RIA NOVOSTI

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VLADIMIR ASTAPKOVICH / TASS

LORI/LEGION MEDIA

1-2. The Museum of Cosmonautics is all about the history of the Soviet space exploration programme and is filled with rare memorabilia. 3. The Moscow Planetarium has again become a major destination for space enthusiasts.

Discovering Moscow's cosmic legacy Begin your space tour as soon as you arrive in Moscow by staying at the Cosmos Hotel, a short walk from the Cosmos Pavilion at VDNKh and the Moscow Museum of Cosmonautics. OLGA CHEREDNICHENKO SPECIAL TO RBTH

Choose the planetarium that fits you best: a fancy one full of wild amusements or a small and cosy Soviet one hidden among the trees ofYekaterininsky Park. For a tour of Zvyozdny Gorodok (Star Village) reservations often must be made two months in advance.

Cosmic canine pioneers At the end of World War II it was still unknown if a living being could survive a space flight. In the USSR, given Professor Pavlov’s previous experience, experiments went forward with dogs, while in the US.and France scientists chose monkeys and cats respectively. In the USSR dogs were taken from shelters, as family dogs were considered too soft. Scientists needed dogs with a real “Soviet character,”in other words tough and full of self-denial. In August 1960 Belka and Strelka accomplished 17 orbits around

the Earth and their return was a triumph. They spent the rest of their lives in glory, and were often paraded around in nurseries and schools. When they died their bodies were stuffed with straw and put on display at the Museum of Cosmonautics in Moscow. Nikita Khrushchev gave Pushinka, one of Strelka's puppies, as a gift to President John F. Kennedy’s daughter. The gift was intended as a hint: the First Secretary of the Communist Party wanted to demonstrate that the USSR had beaten the US in the space race. Once the CIA had checked it for listening devices, Pushinka became the Kennedys’ pet, soon pairing off with their Welsh terrier Charlie. She gave birth to four puppies.

Zvyozdny Gorodok (Star City) The Astronauts’ Training Centre and the Museum of Space Exploration can be found at the closed settlement Zvyozdny Gorodok. Here you can learn about the history of spacecraft, see the first Soviet rocket, spacesuits and flight simulators for the training of astronauts. If you submit to a quick medical check-up, you can try all this yourself. But strolling around

the grounds through this quiet town is also worthwhile as it’s a fascinating glimpse into Soviet scientific settlements. In order to visit the museum, you need to book a tour by phone or e-mail at least 35 days in advance. Zvyozdny Gorodok, 23 kilometres from the MKAD (Moscow Ring Road), Sholkovskoye Shosse, Moscow Region +7 (495) 526-38-74 www.zvezdniygorodok.ru (in Russian) E-mail: go@zvezdniygorodok.ru Entrance fee: 500 rubles ($9) for adults, 400 rubles ($7) for children

The Museum of Cosmonautics This museum has a rich collection including the first satellite, a space WC, the capsule where space dogs Kozyavka and Otvazhnaya lived, the personal belongings of the first astronaut, specimens from the moon and recreations of space flights. Authentic space food is sold in the gift shop. Everything has been left untouched at Korolyov’s Memorial House Museum located nearby.The USSR's leading spacecraft designer Sergei Korolyov lived there for six years during an intense period of work, fully devoting himself to

projects aimed at conquering space, the most important of which was the launch of the Earth’s first artificial satellite and the first manned space flight. Prospekt Mira 111 Metro: VDNKh +7 (495) 683-79-68 www.kosmo-museum.ru Opening hours: Tue, Wed, Fri-Sun 10:00-19:00, Thu 10:00-21:00; closed Mondays Entrance fee: 200 rubles ($3.5) for adults; 50 rubles ($0.80) for children; free for children under six Guided tour: 350 rubles ($6); photo or video: 230 rubles ($4) Admission to the Buran-2 interactive space flight: 200 rubles ($3.5)

Moscow Planetarium The Moscow Planetarium was recently reconstructed and has once again become a major destination for entertainment mixed with a scientific and educational mission. There are Large and Small Star Halls, the Lunarium interactive museum, a 4D cinema and an observatory. The planetarium is located in the Large Star Hall, which projects stars and planets onto the ceiling and shows a documentary film

on black holes and the collision of galaxies. In the Lunarium you can make the Sun explode with a virtual meteorite, take a walk on Mars, launch a hydrogen-fuelled rocket or give shape to an extraterrestrial. This is not Moscow's only such facility, as there is also a small but pleasant planetarium in Yekaterininsky Park: www. planetarium-cc.ru (in Russian) Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 5/1 Metro: Krasnopresnenskaya, Barrikadnaya +7 (495) 221-76-90 www.planetarium-moscow.ru/en Opening hours: Mon, Wed-Sun 10:00– 21:00; closed Tuesdays Entrance fee: 120–700 rubles ($2-12.5)

The Cosmos Pavilion at VDNKh The Cosmos Pavilion Museum at VDNKh park features a full-size interactive model of the future Mars-Tefo space station. It is part educational project and part interactive museum dedicated to the exploration of Mars. It is also a place where you can experience the role of the astronaut and explorer of distant worlds. There are three ways to experience Mars-Tefo: you can look,

touch or try yourself. Visitors can get on a simulator that mimics a walk on the surface of Mars with views of its landscapes. The walk leads to the station, where you can observe sandstorms. There are fantastic images of Mars’ surface as well as a panorama of the Gale Crater shot by the Curiosity space probe in 2012. Additionally, visitors can enter the teleport zone and go into the future to a time when humans can explore Mars, as well as a screening room where you can see Mars and a film on the exploration and conquest of the Red Planet. Prospekt Mira 119, VDNKh, Pavilion 34 Metro: VDNKh +7 (495) 215-13-41 or +7 (495) 21513-48 The pavilion is open Tues-Sun, although tours must be booked in advance Entrance fee: 500–2,000 rubles (9$36$), with a five-percent discount if tickets are purchased online www. marstefo.ru (in Russian)

Olga Cherednichenko is a Moscow-born Russian writer, journalist and author of almost 20 travel guides to different cities.

Siberia Winter is probably the best time of year to go and discover the spirit of the deepest lake on Earth

Baikal: A winter trip to Siberia's frozen pearl Fantastic grottoes on the shore, jeep or ice skating tours, ice fishing and reassuring quiet: these are only some of the joys that make a trip to Lake Baikal in winter worthwhile. ANNA GRUZDEVA

Winter is probably the best time of year to go and discover the spirit of Siberia's Lake Baikal. This is especially true in February and March, when the lake’s surface is frozen solid and the temperatures are subzero. At the same time the air is dry and the skies are surprisingly sunny. Probably the best part about coming here in winter is that unlike in summer, you can enjoy the quiet without being overwhelmed by crowds of tourists.

The miracle of ice Deep blue, inky and interspersed with countless air bubbles whose colour is sparkling blue or blindingly white: such is the ice of Baikal. Whatever its hue, it is al-

LAIF/VOSTOCK-PHOTO

SPECIAL TO RBTH

In winter there are numerous ways of travelling around Baikal, but car tours are the most popular.

ways extraordinarily pure and transparent, like a freshly polished window. From late January to the end of April the legendary lake is frozen solid and is the main natural sight of the Irktusk Region. The ice of Baikal, whose thickness can reach 1.5 metres, does not have a uniformly even surface. There are also large slabs and huge blocks of ice that can reach 12 metres in height and resemble rock crystals; “sokui,”which are natural ice sculptures that form on cliffs and rocks surrounding the lake; and the socalled “ice crevices,” which can be 10-30 kilometres long and up to three metres wide.When such formations are taking shape, the lake emits a sharp and thunderous cracking noise. Generally speaking, Baikal in winter is similar to a prehistoric animal that has fallen asleep, but from time to time sighs, emitting unusual sounds. You can try to

domesticate it, but it’s still best to be careful.

Ice routes In winter there are numerous ways of travelling around Baikal, but car tours are the most popular. Of course, cars are a comfortable and warm means of transport, but they also allow tourists to reach many areas of the lake and admire the rocks and the amazing ice grottoes. Both local inhabitants and seasoned travellers advise inexperienced drivers against taking their own car for a jaunt across the frozen surface. On the Irkutsk side of the lake there is only one route that has been officially opened by the local Ministry of Civil Defence and Emergency Situations, which leads to Olkhon Island. All other routes along Baikal are considered dangerous because of cracks and slabs of ice. Therefore, the safest and most reliable way is to organise a trip through a travel agency (including fishing, a dog sleigh ride and a sauna) or to hire

a car with an experienced driver and guide. The best places for a trip are to Olkhon Island, the Small Sea strait and the shores. Baikal in winter is also a wonderful natural ice rink, with a slippery and uniform surface (in places). For ice skating and other winter sports, including quadricycle rides, skiing or ice fishing, tourists often go to Listvyanka, where the ice is smoothed over along the shore. Many tour bases also try to set up ice rinks for families on their section of the Baikal shore. Lovers of challenging independent travel such as Danila Korzhonov, who once covered a total of 400 kilometres on ice skates, sometimes walk along the entirety of the lake. This, of course, is not for everyone and requires professional training, experience and boldness — but it’s guaranteed to be an absolutely unique Siberian adventure. travel.rbth.com


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Special Report

GULF NEWS_MONDAY_NOVEMBER_30_2015

Biotechnology Russian scientists are on the way to producing 3D-printed human organs for transplant

Novosibirsk institute finds biological markers for bipolar disorder

Honey, I printed a thyroid gland Russia's 3D Bioprinting Solutions laboratory, the first facility to successfully print a mouse's thyroid gland, has now transplanted the artificial organs into live mice, paving the way to 3D-printed human glands.

According to Siberian scientists, problems in the thyroid gland and a hormonal imbalance may indicate a mental illness — bipolar disorder characterised by sudden mood swings.

VICTORIA ZAVYALOVA RBTH

MARINA MOSKALENKO

Back in March 2015 Moscowbased 3D Bioprinting Solutions lab (founded in 2013) became the first such facility to successfully bioprint a thyroid gland — or, to quote the scientists themselves, a "construct" of the organ. The team, led by head researcher Vladimir Mironov, have now succeeded in transplanting several of these glands into live mice. Scientists from the laboratory claim they are ready to start the 3D printing of human thyroid glands. All they need for the first batch are follicular cells, which are responsible for the production and secretion of thyroid hormones. According to the World Health Organisation, 665 million people in the world are affected by thyroid disorders. In Russia, about 140,000 people suffer from various types of thyroid disease and each year 10,000 Russian citizens undergo a thyroidectomy, or the surgical removal of the gland. Thyroid dysfunction caused by cancer cannot be treated with pharmacological therapy. Not even a donor organ transplantation can help in this case, said Andrei Polyakov, the head of the microsurgery department at the Moscow Oncology Research Institute. "The reason for this is that the patients who receive organ transplants have to undergo immunosuppression therapy that can in turn speed up the development of cancer cells," Polyakov explained. According to him, the transplantation of 3D-printed organs and tissues can be conducted without immunosuppression.

SPECIAL TO RBTH

It should come as no surprise that a 3D-printed gland does not fit into the conventional biological hierarchy. The existing system recognises only molecules, tissues, organs, organ systems and organisms. The object printed at 3D Bioprinting Solutions is therefore unclassifiable. "A tissue is a group of cells of the same kind," said Mironov. "An organ is a group of tissues. The construct we created is closer to an organ, as it consists of several types of tissues, has blood vessels and can function at the level of an organism." The scientists chose a thyroid gland as this organ is relatively simple, making it an uncomplicated subject for research work. Besides, it was the first organ transplanted from one human being to another.

PRESS PHOTO (4)

Thyroid and psychological illness

rbth.com/536205

The original bioprinter created by 3D Printing Solutions.

Simpler than you think

Mice pioneers

The original bioprinter created by 3D Printing Solutions consists of three basic elements: a mechanical positioning device, a dispenser and a central processing unit (CPU). Essentially, a bioprinter is a simple robot that can move in three directions. The bioprinter is equipped with an automated syringe that is capable of dispensing either fibrin gel or tissue spheroids. There are, of course, other companies in the world aiming to commercialise 3D bioprinting technology, such as Organovo in the United States, Cyfuse in Japan and Regenhu in Switzerland. However, the technology offered by 3D Bioprinting Solutions is distinctive because aside from the cell-based gel, the Russian laboratory uses the tissue spheroids mentioned above as "building blocks." "Last year we filed a patent for our bioprinter design and for the methods of printing we invented," Mironov told RBTH.

The team of researchers have now have now successfully transplanted the printed "organ constructs" into a group of live mice. The procedure was no different than a regular organ transplant. The mice used in the experiment had already been subjected to a treatment of radioactive iodine that shut down their thyroid glands, causing hormone deficiency. "We are certain that the gland is functional," Mironov told RBTH. "In fact, we are mostly concerned by the perspective of the graft hyperactivity, which can cause hyperthyroidism." According to Mironov, the laboratory conducted all necessary theoretical calculations and morphometric studies before beginning the experiment. "We had some difficulties during the study, but in the end the thyroid gland turned out to be functional," said Dmitry Fadin, development director at 3D Printing Solutions. The results were due to be published in mid-November.

CURRICULUM VITAE

Vladimir Mironov

A laborious method

Tissue engineering specialist and inventor of a new 3D organ printing technology. Graduated from the medical faculty of the Ivanovo State Medical University in 1977. Currently a professor at Virginia Com-

According to psychiatrist Lyudmila Kalashnikova, who has analysed the study's results, bipolar disorder is one of the so-called top 20 most debilitating diseases. "Often doctors consider the disease a manifestation of seasonal depression, and thus diagnose it incorrectly,'' said Kalashnikova. "If the disease could be identified based on a blood analysis, this would be more effective. Scientists should analyse a larger number of patients, which would increase the reliability of their studies." The method carried out in Novosibirsk is laborious and expensive. Scientists admit that for these reasons it will be difficult to incorporate it into standard medical practice. However, they intend to find a simpler and cheaper diagnostic method. According to Alexeyeva, the team plans on confirming the clinical effectiveness of the identified biomarkers.

monwealth University, Department of Chemical and Life Science Engineering. Co-founder of two medical startups in the United States: Cardiovascular Tissue Technology and Cuspis.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Vladimir Mironov: Printed organs will become affordable

Layer by layer The researchers at 3D Bioprinting Solutions took the existing technology of 3D printing currently used to work with diverse materials like plastic, ceramics and metal, and adapted it to work with living cells. The process itself is called "layer-by-layer production." Bioprinting looks like this: at first, the printer sprays a thin layer of gel made of fibrin, a protein involved in the clotting of blood. Embedded in the gel are microscopic spheres consisting of tissue, which subsequently form a threedimensional structure. Mironov first came up with the idea of bioprinting when he discovered that separate ring moieties in a chicken embryo's heart were able to merge to form a tube. He then understood that it was possible to form living tissues out of separate cells and groups of cells.

For their study the scientists chose 10 people with a confirmed bipolar disorder diagnosis, while another 10 people acted as the control group. "We analysed serum samples from their blood using the so-called proteomic approach, studying the system of all the proteins," said Irina Alexeyeva, a researcher at the Novosibirsk institute. "We divided the entire protein mixture according to molecular mass and obtained a protein chart." Then the scientists split the proteins into fragments and analysed them. "It turned out that transthyretin, the protein that transfers the thyroid gland hormone from the blood to the brain, is linked to neuropsychological disease,'' said Alexeyeva. Patients with bipolar or schizophrenic disorders often manifest a reduced functioning of the thyroid gland, and people suffering from such a thyroid dysfunction tend to have symptoms similar to those of a psychological disorder.

Which organs do you expect to be printed in the next two or three years? Thyroid glands, blood vessels, skin and hair, as well as cartilage, bone and adipose tissue. Some organs from this list have in fact already been printed. By your estimates, a printed organ will cost between $200,000 and $250,000. Does this mean only the wealthy will be able to afford them? The history of technological progress shows that once a hi-tech product enters mass production by automated means and starts to be widely used on the market, it becomes tens, scratch that, thousands of times cheaper. So there is no doubt that 3D-printed organs will become more

A bioprinter is a simple robot that can move in three directions.

affordable with time. Do you expect foreign clients? Yes, our product is capable of entering the global market. In China alone there are 1.5 million people in need of an organ transplant. Do you think Russia will be able to create an infrastructure for printed organ transplantation? It's possible, yes. But the government will need to cooperate with private businesses. This will require millions of dollars of investment, but will in time allow the healthcare system to save a lot of money on the treatment of patients. Besides, a country that does not invest in the development of such technologies today will later have to buy it from others, which will be much more expensive.

SHUTTERSTOCK/LEGION-MEDIA

Printing 'constructs'

According to the World Health Organization, about 60 million people worldwide suffer from bipolar disorder. It is an affliction characterised by severe, sudden mood swings and energy levels in the body that affects one's ability to work and in severe cases can even lead to suicide. Scientists from the Institute of Chemical Biology and Basic Medicine in Novosibirsk decided to search for reliable biomarkers that would help to identify the disease and diagnose the patient by blood analysis. In the end, they discovered that psychological disorders are linked to problems in the thyroid gland and a hormonal imbalance.

Scientists from Novosibirsk find mental disordel by blood analysis.


RUSSIA BEYOND THE HEADLINES www.rbth.com

Opinion

GULF NEWS_MONDAY_NOVEMBER_30_2015

07

NO LONGER ANY EXCUSE FOR DISUNITY ON DAESH Georgy Bovt

tween the sides concerning those who certainly should be bombed has already begun. The fact that immediately after Putin's statement the Russian air force launched an attack on what is basically the Daesh capital, Raqqa, is proof of this.

ANALYST

A

fter recognising that a terrorist act was responsible for bringing down the Russian passenger airliner in Egypt on Oct. 31, Russian PresidentVladimir Putin affirmed that "Russia's business in Syria is correct." Revenge for the deaths of the 224 passengers has now become a matter of national principle. "The murder of our people in Sinai is among the bloodiest crimes in terms of the number of victims. This will remain with us forever. But it will not prevent us from finding and punishing the criminals," said Putin, citing Article 51 of the UN Charter on a country's right to self-defence. Russia has promised an unprecedented reward of $50 million for information leading to the capture or death of the terrorists responsible for the tragedy. Although Putin was careful in using the words "revenge," "chastise" and "punish" in reference to the terrorists, his press secretary Dmitry Peskov was more blunt, saying that the special services had received an order to "destroy" everyone involved in the terrorist act. That is, without a trial.

A final battle with the forces of Rome

DMITRY DIVIN

Russia’s next steps What consequences could Moscow's official recognition of the terrorist act have? It is unlikely that this will become a reason to immediately cut air communication with other countries (as was done with Egypt) that pose a significant terrorist threat. Several Russian parliamentarians have already voiced such thoughts. But in my opinion, this extreme measure will be implemented only in the case of a more dangerous escalation of terrorism.

Daesh actually longs for a "decisive and final" ground battle with the West and the Christian world as a whole.

For now Russia’s federal air transport agency is recommending the level of air security be increased on flights to 47 countries, including some European countries and the US. Concerning Syria, the expected and already announced increase in the number of strikes on terrorist targets will not lead to a Russian ground operation in the country. A single anti-terrorist front will also not be formed, for now. Yet coordination between

DOING BUSINESS WITH RUSSIANS: 3 URBAN LEGENDS TO KEEP IN MIND Moty Cristal SCHOLAR

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here is a clear distinction between business in Russia and business with Russians. When people say, “doing business in Russia," usually they have in mind a very old Soviet structure that actually doesn’t allow any free choice or any Western capitalistic development of opportunities, and this is far from being the case in today’s economy.

Doing business with Russians Most of the executive positions in the private sector, and many of the top posts in the government and the government-owned companies are held by young-generation Russians, people between the age of 25 and 45. This is a

generation that grew up in times of economic prosperity, under a market that offers a lot of opportunities. From my experience, I find the new generation of young Russian entrepreneurs extremely curious and open. They are to some extent nationalistic and are proud to be part of the "Rodina," or the motherland. They want to do business in Russia or develop the Russian private sector. At the same time they have cultural awareness for the need to compete in the global markets. In other words, in order to bring to life the Russian spirit, entrepreneurship and creativity, they need to act on a global level, which requires adopting international business norms, not only negotiations. There are several wrong perceptions about Russian business people, but they can be broadly classified into three urban legends.

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Moscow and the West after the terrorist acts in Paris and the G20 summit in Turkey, where the subject matter was discussed in a new context, will undoubtedly intensify. Relations between Russia and the West, in light of the newly recognised threat, are obviously in better condition today than they were a year ago.

Lack of trust with the West Moscow is therefore bound to increase the number of air strikes

the assumption that all Russians are FSB agents is far from reality. Some people benefit from creating an impression that they have links to intelligence agencies, as this may give them an aura of power while negotiating with a business counterpart.

Legend 2: Russians are tough

Russians have feelings like any businesspeople. They hate, they love, they’re enthusiastic, they’re anxious. Legend 1: All Russian businessmen are FSB agents This is like saying every American who understands a little about foreign policy works for the CIA. Not all Russians are FSB agents, and the intelligence agencies actually stay away from the business sector. If someone doesn’t have a very solid business experience, doesn’t understand business opportunities or how the supply chain works, you could be suspicious about him. However,

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Russians are not tough if you know how to deal with them. The facade of toughness usually is a communication methodology, which has proven to be very successful when Russians deal with Russians. But when Russians deal with non-Russians, they know that their "vlast," or "sila," which are the words for "authority" and "force," may work against their benefit. The famous Russian "nyet," or "no," has slowly developed to "well, basically no, but let’s see what we can do about it." I think this is a significant improvement in the way Russians negotiate. Young executives are much more open not to saying "no" at the beginning, and trying to understand in a Harvard manner, and trying to seek common ground. Working globally, I would argue that Chinese are much toug-

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THE ISSUE WAS SENT TO PRINT ON NOV. 26

on Daesh positions, but will refrain from striking forces belonging to the Free Syrian Army, which the West considers the "moderate opposition." Meanwhile, the West has still not given Moscow a list of sites controlled by the so-called "moderate" opposition in order that Russia take steps not to bomb them. This, unfortunately, demonstrates the extremely low level of trust between the sides. However, closer coordination be-

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CIvilisational challenge If the invitation goes unanswered, there will be more "invitations." This confirms that the fanatics and obscurantists have posed a very serious challenge for our civilisation. And for now our disagreements on things that are profoundly secondary are preventing us from forming an answer to the challenge. The author is a political analyst and member of the Council on Foreign and Defence Policy, an independent Moscow-based think tank.

her than Russians and still reflect this power mentality when they come to do business and to negotiate.

Legend 3: Russians don’t have or share emotions Once, after finishing a very long educational project, I stood next to the vice-president of a big industrial company, and asked him, “Dmitry, are you finally happy?” He smiled and said, “Moty, I’m Russian. I cannot be happy. I’m satisfied.”And when I tell this anecdote, all my Russian audiences and students start to laugh, because it really reflects this Russian habit of hiding emotions behind a poker face or behind a cold face. But this is far from the truth. Russians have feelings like any business people. They hate, they love, they’re enthusiastic, they’re anxious. The important thing is to attach, or get connected to the individual and to the emotion. How do you do it? You do it through informal meetings, informal gatherings, through relationship building. The author is Professor of Professional Practice in Negotiation Dynamics at the Skolkovo Moscow School of Management.

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With respect to the ground operation, even though experts believe that a full victory over Daesh will be impossible without it and neither the forces of Assad nor the Kurds are enough, the matter is much more complex — and more ominous. Daesh actually longs for a "decisive and final" ground battle with the "forces of Rome," that is, the West and the Christian world as a whole. The battle, based on their belief, must take place near the Syrian town of Dabiq (now controlled by Daesh), which is not far from Raqqa. If this interpretation of Daesh's intentions is true, then the Parisian terrorist act and the downing of the Russian plane are both provocations, "invitations to a battle" from the fanatics.

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Feature

GULF NEWS_MONDAY_NOVEMBER_30_2015

IN BRIEF

Traditions Tea-making is far from a straightforward ritual for many Russians.

A truly Russian experience: Where to find Moscow & St. Petersburg’s best banyas

Russia’s national drink isn’t coffee — it’s tea

What can be more quintessentially Russian than a banya? This ancient bathhouse tradition is one of the most well-known symbols of the nation. Perhaps you’ve even tried to find one in your hometown. However, the best banyas are to be found in Moscow and St. Petersburg.

MOSCOW, RUSSIA Let’s take a look at some of the best venues for experiencing an authentic Russian banya with "veniki" and "kvas" (a lightly fermented drink made from bread) in Russia's capital.

Sanduny banya The most iconic banya complex in Russia is undoubtedly Sanduny. Located in the heart of Moscow on Neglinnaya St. and open since 1808, Sanduny is also the oldest surviving bathhouse in the Russian capital. It is worth a visit just for purely aesthetic reasons, as the building is a real gem

of interior and architectural design. Here you will find everything from baroque columns to Turkish baths to fulfil just about any imaginable banya experience. If this still hasn't convinced you, ask John Travolta or Naomi Campbell for a reference: they’ve both been known to drop in. › http://www.sanduny.ru/ © KSENIYA SIDOROVA / RIA NOVOSTI

SHUTTERSTOCK/LEGION-MEDIA

Tea is an important part of social rituals in Russia. People drink tea on every occasion including birthdays and funerals.

There is at least one thing that the Russians have in common with the British, Indians or Arabs — their love for strong black tea, which is always an essential part of any social event. ANNA KHARZEEVA SPECIAL TO RBTH

"Why do you need to have so many weird teas? Isn’t black enough?” asked my Australian friend, trying to figure out Russia’s obsession with tea. We love our tea in Russia, and have done for a long time. It started with sbiten' — a hot herb and honey drink — and then slowly moved to actual tea, with the famous samovar used to facilitate the drinking and creating a wonderful backdrop for paintings. Today there is indeed a huge variety of tea available in restaurants, cafes and homes in Russia — black, green, red, fruity, herby, and with mixes as sophisticated as a cocktail in a swanky bar. We (or at least I) love it because it can keep you warm through the cold times, provide excellent procrastination opportunities and a great way to socialise and eat cakes and sweets. When I was a kid, tea options were much more limited. It was all black, although herbs and berries would still be added when available. Black tea was (and still is) drunk with lemon and sugar — either dissolved in the cup or vprikusku — biting on sugar while drinking tea. A variety of jams would also be served. My brother was particularly fond of sweet tea, and as a kid said that “grandpa’s tea is the best!”A short investigation into“Grandpa’s tea”

From the Soviet Cook Book "In recent years, the Soviet Union has begun to grow tea not only in Georgia but also in Azerbaijan and on the Black Sea coast of the Krasnodar region. Soviet tea is excellent in taste, flavour, and infusion. Tea should be stored in a dry place in a tightly closed container,

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Samovar, a traditional boiling tank, is still in use in many places.

away from anything that has a strong smell. Before brewing the tea, it is necessary to rinse the tea leaves with boiling water so that it is warm. Then, over the tea, pour fresh cooled boiled water — at first, no more than 2/3 of the volume of the kettle. After brewing, cover the kettle with

a cloth or towel for about five minutes. Then add boiling water and pour into glasses. You cannot put a kettle with tea leaves on a fire. You will surely spoil the taste of the tea. Brewing tea with boiled water will also not be tasty."

showed the secret to making the best tea was three large spoons of sugar in each cup. According to one classic Soviet cookbook, tea was grown in Georgia, Azerbaijan and the Russian city of Krasnodar. It also explains something I neglected to think about, which is that there was green tea in the Soviet Union, but it was only drunk in the Russian Far East and what are today the republics of Central Asia. “During the war we would use dried carrots and berry leaves to make ‘tea,’” said Granny. “After the war, we drank a lot of tea — a cup of tea and a salami sandwich was a meal in itself. The most sought-after tea was Indian, but it wasn’t easy to come by. Tea was always in the provision packages given out at work at special occasions, although it wasn’t always the Indian ‘3 Elephants’ brand. In the villages, they would drink tea from a samovar. It took hours, they’d drink 10 litres between one family, using cups and saucers, pouring tea into saucers and drinking straight from there.” When I was growing up, we did

have another type of drink that we called “tea mushroom,” which is a combination of yeast and bacteria mixed with sweet tea. It looked like a flat jellyfish floating in a big jar with tea. The water would turn yellow and get slightly fizzy and would taste a little sour. On top of the jar there was gauze fixed with an elastic band to filter the “tea” out. It was believed to be very healthy, and many of my childhood days started with a glass of the“mushroom” tingling my often sore throat. Friends who came over didn’t always know what it was, but would always get a piece of our mushroom — Granny was very generous — with instructions on how to use it. It would then grow in someone else’s jar and tingle someone else’s throat. “Every family I know had tea mushroom. We believed it could cure all possible diseases. But then one day it just disappeared — I don’t remember when and don’t know why!”— lamented Granny. We Russians may not drink tea mushroom or use samovars anymore, but one thing is here to stay — the love for tea. I drank five cups while writing this — it kept me warm, and I took an extra two hours to finish!

The luxurious interiors of the Sanduny banya.

Vorontsovskie banya Not as historic, Vorontsovkie bathhouse still rivals Sanduny in popularity among locals and visitors to Moscow. Built in 1938, this banya has garnered acclaim for the quality of its steam rooms and the wide range of services available. There are also many private banya rooms available

here for larger groups (they have rooms ranging from four to 10 people). Choose one of these rooms — each one is decorated in a unique fashion: from Russian banya to Turkish hammam to a minimalist style — and enjoy your pure Russian banya experience with close friends. › http://vorontsovskie-bani.ru/index.php

ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA Yamskie banya The favorite venue of Lenin and Dostoevsky, the Yamskie bathhouse is among St. Petersburg’s most historic and popular places for a steam. And this place deserves every compliment it gets. Apart from the traditional Russian banya, Yamskie offers the

Mytninskie banya The runner-up for the title of the most historic banya in St. Petersburg, the Mytninskie banya has an established following among locals. Originally built for the penniless population of Russia’s imperial capital, Mytninskie was among the

Degtyarnye banya One more popular option for experiencing an authentic Russian banya is the Degtyarnye, located just off Nevsky Prospekt. This bathhouse first opened half a century ago and since then has become one of the most prominent venues for weekend

services of a wellness centre with cryochamber, an infrared sauna, a massage parlour and a solarium. Frequent guests highly recommended drinking the Russian kvas (a lightly fermented drink made from bread) served in the local restaurant. › http://www.yamskie.ru/

first public bathhouses in St. Petersburg. Today, it has undergone largescale renovations and offers stateof-the-art equipment, professionally trained staff, a beauty parlour and a selection of public and private luxury steam rooms. › http://www.mybanya.spb.ru/

leisure in St. Petersburg. It can host up to 620 guests simultaneously and the staff are considered among the best in town. Apart from traditional Russian steam rooms, you can enjoy invigorating massages and a wide range of spa procedures. › http://www.d1a.ru/pages/en/

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21 December


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