Watchpro december 2016

WatchPro DECEMBER 2016 / ISSUE 71 watchpro.com

NEWS, TRENDS AND MARKET INTELLIGENCE FOR THE BRITISH WATCH INDUSTRY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016 Our annual review of the 100 hottest watches from the last 12 months

in g e r s o ll1892.c o m

WATCHPRO / CONTENTS

CONTENTS UP FRONT

8-12

08 13

FRONT: NEWS REVIEW Value of sales for watches costing over £1000 has rocketed by 53% in the UK. Zeon appointed as distributor for Furla watches. Britain grows imports of Swiss watches as the rest of the world retreats.

13

VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY Sylvian Dolla, CEO of Hamilton, describes how the company’s focus on delivering every increasing quality and technical innovation without raising prices is helping it weather the global slowdown.

14-15

12

RETAIL SALES DATA Luxury watch sales in London have contributed to growth of almost 27.3% for the whole UK market this year, but the rest of the country has also been enjoying dramatic growth thanks to rising average transaction values, GfK reveals.

20 WATCHES OF THE YEAR, IN ASSOCIATION WITH HEARST MAGAZINES UK 19 20 24 29 33 38 43 47 52 57 62

WATCHES OF THE YEAR INTRODUCTION LUXURY WATCHES OF THE YEAR TRENDSETTING WATCHES OF THE YEAR EASY WEARING WATCHES OF THE YEAR SPORTS ACTIVITY WATCHES OF THE YEAR QUARTZ WATCHES OF THE YEAR MECHANICAL WATCHES OF THE YEAR LADIES’ WATCHES OF THE YEAR SMARTWATCHES OF THE YEAR SHOW STOPPER WATCHES OF THE YEAR WATCHES TO WATCH

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43

57 4

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

New NOMOS watches for premieres, podiums, and parties: such as Tangente neomatik nachtblau, depicted here. Find this and other timepieces with the NOMOS swing system and the automatic movement of the next generation now at selected retailers. More at nomos-store.com, nomos-glashuette.com.

COMMENT

Britain could become the world’s third largest market for luxury watches Are Christmas bonuses still something that employees can expect in Britain today? The majority of the watch brands and retailers we asked say they are not, althoughthere will be plenty of champagne and performance-related pay being sprayed around as we approach the end of an exceptional year for luxury watch sales in the UK. WatchPro has written for several months about the windfall British luxury watchretailers BSF FOKPZJOH FYQMBJOFE MBSHFMZ CZ UIF QSJDF EJÍFSFODF UIFZ IBWF BHBJOTUTUPSFT BSPVOE UIF world thanks to the decline in the value of the pound.

A 10% increase in prices announced by LVMH, Rolex, Richemont and others, hasn’t dampened demand. GfK reports that sales of watches costing more than £1000 were up over 53% in October because the price rise just caused average tranaction values to increase.

This points to woefully under-reported explanations for the UK’s incredible performance, which are that we live in one of the greatest countries on earth; our biggest cities are second to none when it comes to welcoming visitors; and, most importantly we have truly exceptional luxury watch retailers. *O BO JOUFSWJFX XJUI UIF 'JOBODJBM 5JNFT UIJT NPOUI "VSVN (SPVQ $&0 #SJBO %VĂŤZ QVU JU succinctly: “The UK is now the best luxury watch centre in the western world in terms of presentation of the product,â€? he said.

"VSVN T 8BUDIFT PG 4XJU[FSMBOE IBT CFFO POF PG UIF HSFBUFTU CFOFĂ‹DJBSJFT PG UIFDVSSFOU boom, and the company richly deserves the success after investing in some of the best retail sites in the country, and developing a highly innovative in store environment that mixes technology, deep knowledge of watches and outstanding stock.

The Watch Gallery has made similar investments in skills and space, and will add 1000 square feet to its Wonder Room in London’s Selfridges. Harrods is also due to refurbish its Fine Watch Room early next year. *OEFQFOEFOUT IBWF BMTP CFOFËUFE CFDBVTF UIFZ QSPWJEF PVUTUBOEJOH TFSWJDF #FSSZ T Wempe, Prestons, George Pragnell, Harrington & Hallworth, Laings, Parkhouse Marcus and NBOZ NPSF BSF BNPOH UIF ËOFTU CPVUJRVFT OPU KVTU JO UIFJS MPDBM BSFBT CVU JO UIF XPSME It will be impossible for the UK market to continue notching year-on-year increases of 50% in 2017; but what I do expect to see is for this country to continue rising up the league of nations. We’ve overtaken China for imports of Swiss watches since the summer of 2016, and overtaken Germany and France for the year-to-date. Amazingly, Italy remains ahead of us. * UIJOL UIBU JU JT UIF RVBMJUZ PG PVS SFUBJMFST UIBU XJMM FOTVSF XF SFNBJO BNPOH UIF UPQ ËWF EFTUJOBUJPOT JO UIF XPSME GPS ËOF XBUDIFT *UBMZ $IJOB BOE +BQBO DPVME BMM CF PWFSUBLFO which would make the UK the third biggest market in the world next year, and that certainly would be something to celebrate.

Rob Corder

MANAGING EDITOR, WATCHPRO DECEMBER’S COVER Front cover image: Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Power Reserve featuring the SH21 movement that delivers 120 hours of continuous timekeeping without winding. The watch is winner of WatchPro’s Easy Wearing Watch of the Year (turn to page 30 for full details).

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

ITP PROMEDIA PUBLISHING 16-25 Bastwick Street, London, EC1V 3PS Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4228 Fax: +44 (0)20 3176 4231 EDITORIAL Managing Editor Rob Corder, rob.corder@itp.com Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4227 Editorial Director Andrew Seymour andrew.seymour@itppromedia.com Assistant Editor: Joe Peskett joe.peskett@itppromedia.com COMMERCIAL Publisher Daniel Malins, daniel.malins@itppromedia.com Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4225 DESIGN Designed in conjunction with Tegra www.tegra.in DIGITAL Chief Technology Officer Hitendra Molleti, hitendra.molleti@itp.com Database Management Vinod Alath, vinod.alath@itp.com PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION Group Production & Distribution Director Kyle Smith, kyle.smith@itp.com Production & Distribution Coordinator Danny Corder, danny.corder@itppromedia.com Outsourcing Manager Aamar Shawwa, aamar.shawwa@itp.com CIRCULATION SUBSCRIPTION CUSTOMER SERVICE +44 (0)20 3176 4228 subscriptions@itppromedia.com Web www.watchpro.com www.itppromedia.com Printed by: Henry Stone Ltd The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.

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UPCOMING LONDON AUCTIONS Fine Watches and Wristwatches Wednesday 14 December New Bond Street

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FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

DECEMBER’S NEWS DIGEST

THIS MONTH IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY...

8

SWISS WATCH EXPORT FIGURES

10

INSIGHT FROM HAMILTON CEO

13

GFK SALES ANALYSIS

14

VALUE OF LUXURY WATCH SALES SOARS OVER 53% AS WORLD BEATS A PATH TO UK STORES

S

ales of luxury watches in the UK rose by 53.5% in October, according to the latest monthly retail analysis by GfK. The growth is even faster than in September (+39.7%) and contributes to a growth rate over the past 12 months of 25.1% for watches priced at over £1000.

Richemont Group, LVMH Group and Rolex have all raised UK prices by around 10% since Britain’s vote to leave

the UK triggered a plunge in the value of the pound and made luxury watches in the UK about 20% cheaper than the rest of the world.

Far from dampening sales, this price rise appears only have driven revenues even higher for retailers of the most popular luxury brands.

“October was another impressive month for sales of luxury watches in the GB market; we saw many of the largest luxury watch brands see strong volume and value

growth last month vs October 2015. This was a combination of an increase in demand (higher volume) and an increase in average sale price,” says Paul Mitchell GfK account director for watches.

There is strong evidence that tourism was a strong driver for UK watch sales, with London retailers enjoying a 55% rise in takings over October 2015, and increasing its share of the entire UK market up to 40%, according to Mr Mitchell. However, the

rest of the country also saw sales increase by a healthy 11.8% in October – a dramatic acceleration compared to the ËSTU NPOUIT PG UIF ZFBS which cumulatively saw sales growth outside London of only 1%.

The fashion and lifestyle end of the watch market is continuing to endure falling sales. The value of watch sales priced at £100-500 declined 5.5%, although this is a slower rate of decline than earlier in the year.

FOR DAILY WATCH INDUSTRY NEWS UPDATES AND FEATURES VISIT WATCHPRO.COM AND FOLLOW @WATCHPRO ON TWITTER 8

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

NEWS REVIEW NEWS REVIEW Luxury watch retailers are embracing the business model of The Limited Edition, a yearold website that aims to educate and generate sales for limited edition and rare timepieces in the UK. The platform has been growing exponentially since it launched in 2015 thanks to its focus on nurturing and deepening knowledge about IBSE UP lOE XBUDIFT 5IF site now welcomes around 30,000 enthusiasts per month.

The success is generating even greater interest from consumers and retail partners. “We are proud to reveal that we have recently started important collaborations with some of the most prestigious retailers, who have agreed to promote some of their most exclusive timepieces through our platform. This element will be key in enriching the

platform with more stunning timepieces, and to consolidate The Limited Edition as the quirkiest horological collectors place available online,� says cofounder Pietro Tomajer.

Tudor has launched a lefthanded version of its Pelagos.

The watch, which retails for b JT lUUFE XJUI BO JO house movement and features a winding stem positioned to the left of the case, so that the watch can be worn on the right

wrist. In a nod to its past, the watch is designed to evoke the brand’s history of dive watches EFTJHOFE TQFDJlDBMMZ GPS MFGU handed professional divers.

During the 1970s, the French Navy commissioned bespoke Tudor models for its left-handed divers.

First Time, a training company that provides BO JOUSPEVDUJPO UP lOF watchmaking, has launched in the UK with a series of London workshops. The company’s introduction to watchmaking will familiarise people with the workings of the self-winding and hand-wound mechanisms that equip some of the most prestigious timepieces. Seated at a genuine watchmaker’s bench, those taking part will set out with professional quality tools including a movement

holder, loupe, precision screwdrivers, tweezers, a dustblower and Rodico putty as they take apart and reassemble an ETA movement. The First Time London workshop also DPWFST lOJTIJOH UFDIOJRVFT such as polishing, lubrication, lOF BEKVTUNFOUT VTJOH UIF chronocomparator, and inspecting and controlling the movement. The 4.5 hour workshops will take place in London on February 11, April 29 and June 10 of next year.

NUMBER CRUNCH: FEDERATION OF SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY OCTOBER 2016 UPDATE The Swiss watchmaking industry suffered its sharpest contraction of the year in October, despite the UK delivering another stellar performance with imports up 9% over the same month in 2015.

The United Kingdom retains its position as the fourth largest market in the world for Swiss watches, overtaking Japan for the ďŹ rst time this year. The Chinese mainland notched its ďŹ rst monthly rise, with imports up 2.8%, making it the world’s third largest market, but Hong Kong continued to hemorrhage business, with imports down 21.5%

10

in October. For the year to date, the UK is the only country in the top 10 to have grown this year (up 4.5%). It is on course to ďŹ nish the year as the ďŹ fth largest market in the world for Swiss watches, ahead of Germany, France and Italy for the ďŹ rst time in years.

Analysis of the state of the world market by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reveals despair that an anticipated recovery in the fourth quarter of 2016 was showing no signs of materialising. “A recovery had been expected in the

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

fourth quarter, but watch industry exports in fact reported their steepest fall of the year in October.

Their value was 16.4% lower against October 2015 at CHF 1.7 billion. The variation over ten months now stands at -11%,� it said in its monthly report.

But the Swiss had to concede that British watch business is outperforming all others. “The United Kingdom was once again the most dynamic market, still beneďŹ ting from the lower parity of the pound sterling following the Brexit referendum,â€? the report stated.

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

NEWS REVIEW

same day despatch BUSHLESS MICROMOTOR Ref: FDK1050 @ ÂŁ595.00 ONLINE VIDEO DEMO

London is the best city in Europe for expanding international retail brands to invest. Despite soaring costs and the uncertainty of Brexit, London tops a list that includes Paris in second, Amsterdam in third, Barcelona in fourth and 8BSTBX JO l GUI 5IF MFBHVF table is compiled every year by real estate consultant Savills in its European Retail Destination Index. Paris and Geneva are currently the top European markets for branded luxury watch boutiques with 33 and 24 respectively. However, London’s growing tourist numbers and BGm VFOU EFNPHSBQIJD JT NBLJOH it increasingly attractive to luxury watch brands, according to research published by Savills in August, with 11 watch brands PQFOJOH UIFJS l STU NPOPCSBOE store in the city since 2010 and another six expected to open before the end of 2016.

A stainless steel Patek Philippe 1518 has become the world’s most expensive wristwatch after selling for nearly £7.7 million at a Geneva auction in November. Bidding started

at ÂŁ2.4m and after a ten minute battle between seven bidders a private collector claimed the perpetual calendar chronograph.

5IF l OBM CJE XBT b N CVU XJUI the buyer’s premium included UIF l OBM QSJDF XBT b 5IF TBMF CFBUT UIF QSFWJPVT SFDPSE PG B b N 1BUFL 1IJMJQQF TPME BU UIF TBNF BVDUJPO in November last year. Paul Boutros, head of watches for the Americas for Phillips, told Forbes: “I have waited a lifetime to see B JO TUBJOMFTT TUFFM *U JT number one of only four known to exist.�

Created in 1941, Patek Philippe’s XBT UIF XPSME T l STU perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to be produced in a series.

IWC Schaffhausen watches went on sale at Mr Porter and Net-A-Porter in November. Both Mr Porter and Net-A-Porter are owned by Yoox Net-A-Porter Group, which bought the sites from Richemont Group, by coincidence the owner of IWC, JO GPS BSPVOE b NJMMJPO IWC has never before partnered with an online-only luxury SFUBJMFS CVU PO /PWFNCFS Net-A-Porter launched with a

Brushless - High Torque - High Speed Ç°1,000 to 50,000rpm Ç°Variable Speed Ç°Dial or foot speed control

JEWELLERS KIT with Quick Release Handpiece Ref: K2220CE @ ÂŁ195.00

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11

FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

NEWS REVIEW curated selection of timepieces across the Pilot’s Watches BOE 1PSUPlOP GBNJMJFT 5IF following day, Mr Porter put a selection of core timepieces on sale from across the Pilot’s Watches, Ingenieur, Aquatimer, 1PSUVHJFTFS BOE 1PSUPlOP families, including the signature Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère RĂŠtrograde model. “We are very pleased to announce our partnership with the leading Swiss watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen which will further strengthen Net-A-Porter and Mr Porter’s unparalleled luxury shopping experience.

This step forward will propel our Fine Watches and Jewellery category to the next level,� said Federico Marchetti, CEO of Yoox Net-A-Porter Group. opportunities around their favourite luxury products.

Zeon has secured distribution rights for Furla watches in the UK. The Italian fashion house, most famous for its handbags and leather accessories, put JUT OBNF UP JUT lSTU DPMMFDUJPO of watches for autumn/winter 2016 following a licensing agreement with Italy’s Morellator Group. Morellato is overseeing both the creative side and the production of the new watch line under the UFSNT PG B lWF ZFBS MJDFOTJOH agreement. Zeon is already introducing the Furla collection to key retailers in the UK. “Furla is an exciting proposition and brings something very different

12

and unique to the UK watch market, said Javier Fuerra, sales manager for the UK and Europe at Zeon. “The preview of the collection has already SFTVMUFE JO DPOlSNFE MJTUJOHT from WatchShop/Goldsmiths, Argento and Shade Station,â€? he revealed to WatchPro. The lSTU DPMMFDUJPO DPNQSJTFT lWF EJGGFSFOU MJOFT GFBUVSJOH metallic leathers, animal and DBNPVmBHF QSJOUT 5IF XBUDIFT have interchangeable straps with an easy-pin system, Prices range from ÂŁ125-215.

Christopher Ward has signed an agreement with Morgan Motor Company that will see the British watch brand design limited edition pieces that will be available only to Morgan customers. Each will have the chassis number of the owner’s car engraved into their unique watch. In time, Christopher Ward Co-founder Mike France said, the watch brand will have license to create watches developed with Morgan for the wider public.

5IF lSTU UJNFQJFDFT GSPN UIF partnership will be launched at the Geneva Motor Show in early March. They will pick up design features from the three-wheel chassis beloved of Morgan enthusiasts. The aim is to launch with prices under ÂŁ3000, according to Mr Francis.

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

TAG Heuer has added a ÂŁ9000 rose gold edition to its Connected line up of smartwatches. The Swiss watchmaker says it is remaining true to its image as a luxury watchmaker with the precious metal model, which offers exactly the same functions and properties as the original watch that retails for ÂŁ1100-1300 in the UK. The Connect has been a considerable success for British retailers since it launched earlier this year, but it remains to be seen whether the luxury end of the market will appreciate a product with a little more exclusivity.

A key selling point has been an offer from TAG that after the smartwatch’s two-year warranty expires, owners can exchange their smartwatch for a Swiss-Made Carrera Calibre 5 mechanical watch that is only available to customers of TAG Heuer Connected watches.

Other Carrera models typically retail for around ÂŁ2000.

Loomes has unveiled the Loomes Stamford Original is a completely new movement for which every component is manufactured in England.

Much of the turning work was outsourced to around twenty middle-England precision engineering companies. From there the watches were slowly built up in the company’s Stamford workshops. A staff PG lGUFFO NBDIJOF BOE KFXFM the plates, cocks and bridges in small batches and machine cases and dials. “Even the

screws and jewels are made in England,� says the company’s owner Robert Loomes. Loomes also makes its own watch cases and dials, allowing the company to launch a short run of watches using the Stamford Original movement, which is 29mm across and 4.6mm deep.

5IF lSTU XBUDI BMTP LOPXO BT the Stamford, was launched at SalonQP. It is an uncluttered timepiece with just hour and NJOVUF IBOET PO B b watch. Only 24 are being made, 12 in white gold and 12 in yellow gold. They will be available in 2017. “We were driven on by those in the industry who said this couldn’t be done. Robert stubbornly believed it could and has spent the last few years working towards this moment,� a company spokesperson says.

NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

HAMILTON CEO SAYS UK OFFERS CONSIDERABLE ROOM TO GROW

SYLVIAN DOLLA, CEO OF HAMILTON, SAYS THAT THE BRAND HAS BEEN GRABBING MARKET SHARE IN THE UK THANKS TO ITS FOCUS ON AFFORDABLE LUXURY. WATCHPRO’S ROB CORDER SPOKE TO MR DOLLA TO FIND OUT HOW IT IS BEING POSITIONED IN THE UK AND HOW BRITISH RETAILERS CAN PROFIT FROM WORKING WITH THE SWATCH GROUP COMPANY.

W

atchPro: Has the decision by the UK to leave the European Union affected how you think about this market?

and Italy in which Hamilton has a leadership position we can afford to tap new categories such as the women’s market, which has proven to be very successful.

Sylvian Dolla: Not really, this is the decision of the people and as Swiss citizens we are used to having major decisions taken by the people. The UK has a strong economy and NJE UP MPOH UFSN XF BSF DPOlEFOU UIBU UIJT should not affect negatively our business.

WP: 2016 has been another tough year for the entire Swiss watch industry, how does this affect Hamilton in terms of product development, pricing, marketing and other tactical business decisions?

SD: The market environment is not easy at UIF NPNFOU IPXFWFS )BNJMUPO JT CFOFlUJOH from fantastic results in our top four markets (Japan, Italy, United States and Korea). I’m strongly convinced that during market slowdown, brands should not panic. Product development, marketing and branding are not something to change in the short UFSN UP PWFSDPNF EJGlDVMUJFT " MPOH UFSN approach of staying true to the DNA always pays back.

WP: What type of retailers make ideal partners for Hamilton? Are you mainly focused on the bigger multiples or do you also aim to work with more independents?

SD: Both Multiples and Independents are important retail partners for Hamilton. We believe that both can be complimentary as UIFZ BEESFTT EJGGFSFOU QSPlMFT PG DVTUPNFST WP: Would you only work with retailers that already have a successful track record with other Swatch Group brands?

SD: Not necessarily, we work with retailers UIBU BSF QBTTJPOBUF BCPVU UIF CSBOE BOE GVMlM our qualitative criteria in terms of how they promote and sell the brand.

WP: How important are online sales to a volume watch brand like Hamilton? How have digital channels developed for the brand in recent years?

SD: %JHJUBM JT EFlOJUFMZ B TUSBUFHJD UPQJD BU Hamilton, not only are we opening our own e-commerce channels in several markets – we started in the US, France and Italy with great success – we plan to open additional markets in Europe and Asia in the coming months and years.

WP: Sales figures in the UK this year show a decline in the value of watch sales in the sub-£1000 categories, while sales of luxury

watches are booming. How does Hamilton respond to conditions like this?

SD: We are not worried as not many Swiss made watch brands offer strong mechanical watches within the £350 to £ 1,300 price range. Our constant strive to bring added WBMVF BOE lOF EFUBJMT UP PVS XBUDIFT XIJMF keeping the same price point enables us to go through market slow-downs while gaining market share.

WP: For a brand like Hamilton to grow, do you focus on grabbing market share from competitors, or do you look at developing completely new categories, such as your recent push into the women’s market?

SD: For the last 10 years we have been adding market share. In markets like Japan

WP: How does a brand like Hamilton get its voice heard within Swatch Group when so much time must be devoted to the group’s biggest brands?

SD: Hamilton within the Swatch Group and the industry has its own DNA: an American Spirit brand with Swiss Precision. Being part of the Swatch Group has been a tremendous opportunity to develop the brand internationally and also have the means to invest into product development.

Last but not least, benchmarking ourselves with our sister brands such as Tissot and Longines, which are the most successful watch brands in the world, is a great source of motivation.

WP: What is your view of smart watches – a threat or an opportunity for Hamilton?

SD: I am still convinced that Hamilton should not enter this arena and should remain GPDVTFE PO lOF XBUDIFT UIBU DVTUPNFST DBO cherish for a long time.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

13

FRONT / RETAIL SALES DATA

Fourth quarter starts with a bang

THE TOTAL BRITISH WATCH MARKET HAS ENJOYED A RECORD-BREAKING OCTOBER WITH SALES BY VALUE UP BY 27.3%. LONDON IS THE LOCOMOTIVE FOR GROWTH, BUT IT IS PULLING THE REST OF THE COUNTRY ALONG WITH IT.

R

ed and orange mean negative numbers while the various shades of blue are good news in our reporting of retail analyst GfK’s monthly retail sales data.

As you can see at a glance, we have an almost total sea of blue across the pages of our roundup of watch sales for October, which means that the UK has recorded another month of rising sales.

However, as we have seen throughout 2015, the growth has not been evenly spread, with luxury watch sales driving the entire market and London, in particular, outperforming the rest of the country.

The overall value of all watch sales in the UK has risen by a staggering 27.3% in October compared

to a year earlier, although there were actually fewer watches sold in volume terms. For every luxury watch sold for over £1000, there was more than one cheaper watch that did not get sold. Small XPOEFS SFUBJMFST IBWF CFFO CFHHJOH UP TUPDL lOF watch brands in stores and online.

Even online, we can see that it is more expensive watches that are increasing sales fastest because, while the volume of units sold online rose by just 3.9% in October, the value of sales online rose three times faster at 13.8%.

Finally, it is encouraging to see sales from retailers outside of London increase by a healthy 12%, so the UK boom is not just restricted to the big tourist shopping streets in the capital.

Total GB Watch Market (Sales Volume (Units)

Total GB Watch Market (Sales Value GBP) 27.3%

This data is supplied by GfK, the UK’s leading analyst of retail performance BOE DPOTVNFS DPOlEFODF For information please WJTJU XXX HGL DPN

October 2016

October 2016

-9.9%

9.9%

January 2016 - October 2016

January 2016 - October 2016

-11.6%

10.0%

November 2015 - October 2016

November 2015 - October 2016

-8.2%

0

5

10

15

20

25

30 -12

-10

Online sales (Sales Value GBP)

-8

-6

-4

October 2016

3.9%

October 2016

14.3%

January 2016 - October 2016

9.4%

January 2016 - October 2016

21.1%

November 2015 - October 2016

16.6%

November 2015 - October 2016

5

10

15

20

25

0

5

London (ISBA region) Sales Value GBP 12.0%

October 2016

23.7%

January 2016 - October 2016

1.0%

January 2016 - October 2016

20.5%

November 2015 - October 2016

2.7%

November 2015 - October 2016

20

30

40

50

60

0

2

4

14

-8

20

6

8

10

12

Price (£100 - £500)

Price (<£100)

-10

15

Rest of GB (Sales Value GBP)

October 2016

10

Growth Rate on same period the previous year

10

55.0%

0

0

Online sales (Sales Volume (units)

13.8%

0

-2

October 2016

-8.6%

October 2016

-5.5%

January 2016 - October 2016

-7.3%

January 2016 - October 2016

-12.2%

November 2015 - October 2016

-3.3%

November 2015 - October 2016

-8.6%

-6

-4

-2

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

0

-15

-12

-9

-6

-3

0

RETAIL SALES DATA/ FRONT Price (£500 - £1,000)

Price (>£1,000)

October 2016

3.9%

October 2016

53.5%

1.8%

January 2016 - October 2016

25.4%

January 2016 - October 2016

7.4%

November 2015 - October 2016

25.1%

November 2015 - October 2016

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8 0

10

20

40

50

60

Strap performance (CERAMIC)

Strap performance (<Grand Total>)

October 2016

October 2016

27.3%

30

-5.5%

9.9%

January 2016 - October 2016

January 2016 - October 2016

-12.2%

10.0%

November 2015 - October 2016

November 2015 - October 2016

-8.6%

0

5

10

15

20

25

30 -15

-12

Strap performance (LEATHER)

-6

-3

October 2016

33.4%

10.2%

January 2016 - October 2016

11.9%

January 2016 - October 2016

12.3%

November 2015 - October 2016

10.8%

November 2015 - October 2016

0

5

10

15

20

25

30 0

5

10

-1.5

-1.0

15

20

25

October 2016

9.2%

October 2016

0.2%

January 2016 - October 2016

0.8%

January 2016 - October 2016

3.1%

November 2015 - October 2016

1.5%

November 2015 - October 2016

-0.5

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5 0

2

4

GENTS (Sales Value GBP)

6

October 2016

57.4%

October 2016

14.9%

January 2016 - October 2016

9.3%

January 2016 - October 2016

15.6%

November 2015 - October 2016

-1.3%

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40 -10

CHILDRENS (Sales Value GBP)

-10.1% -12

-10

-8

0

10

20

30

October 2016

January 2016 - October 2016

24.3%

January 2016 - October 2016

November 2015 - October 2016

19.8%

November 2015 - October 2016

-4

-2

10

November 2015 - October 2016

41.3%

-6

8

40

50

60

AVERAGE SELLING PRICE (GBP)

October 2016 -9.3%

35

UNISEX (Sales Value GBP)

36.6%

0

30

LADIES (Sales Value GBP)

Strap performance (OTHERS)

-1.2%

0

Strap performance (METAL)

October 2016

26.0%

-9

1.6%

0

2 0

10

20

30

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

40

50 15

Discover the new breed of watchmaker...

christopherward.co.uk

Beautiful. Ambitious. Ingenious. Thanks to its Calibre JJ04 movement – the work of our master watchmaker Johannes Jahnke – the C9 Moonphase is able to plot the orbit of the Moon with perfect accuracy.

More remarkably, if kept wound, its nickelplated ‘Moon’ will travel across the watch’s dial for 128 years before it needs adjusting.

Steel, 40mm. £1,295

built for the challenge

www.seiko-prospex.com

SPORTS / WATCH OF THE YEAR

THE WORLD’S BEST WATCHES IN BRITAIN’S GREATEST EVER YEAR The world of watches was a little subdued in 2016. Coming into the year, global economic and political uncertainty, and the continuing slowdown in major Asian markets, meant there was a cautious approach to innovation and design from the biggest groups. At the major trade shows we witnessed a reluctance to shock with models that might have only limited appeal. Brands instead tweaked their blockbuster models, ensuring that they could still sell pieces from 2015 while feeding 2016 novelties into the channel.

It pains me to introduce a roundup of 2016 in this way because, if the rest of the world had performed even close to the UK market, the global watchmaking industry would be having the greatest Christmas party ever seen.

I keep waiting for the fun to stop in the UK. Most of the biggest brands had compensated for the weak pound by September with a 10% price hike, but the good times have just kept coming here in Blighty. In October, alone, sales of luxury watches costing more than £1000 were

up by a staggering 53% over the same month in 2015.

So, we are here to celebrate in grand style, by presenting you with the 100 watches that have impressed us most this year. As only WatchPro can, we have mixed top end tourbillons from the biggest maisons with the sort of fashion fixes that punters can buy as a pay day treat. Because what delights us most is business success; the alchemy where design, innovation, engineering, manufacturing, branding, merchandising, salesmanship and customer service come together to turn horology into hard cash.

We are delighted to be helped this year by the incredible publishing teams at Hearst Magazines UK, who produce peerless fashion and lifestyle titles including Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire, Cosmopolitan, Men’s Health and Elle.

Editors of these titles really know their watches, and particularly the watches that their readers love, so our roundup this year is enriched with star watches chosen by journalists from many of their key titles.

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

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LUXURY

WATCH OF THE YEAR / LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

LUXURY WATCH OF THE YEAR

FROM CLEAN CLASSIC STYLES TO COMPLICATIONS AND INNOVATIONS, THESE WATCHES ALL HAVE BOUNDLESS LUXURY APPEAL IN COMMON.

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

WINNER: GIRARD-PERREGAUX LA ESMERALDA TOURBILLON

G

irrard-Perregaux was never going to allow its 225th anniversary slip past without a grand gesture that demonstrates the depth of its history and its current watchmaking mastery. The historic reference it chose to revive was the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges pocket chronometer that won the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1889. The arrow-headed golden bridges have been spotted many times before, but they are powerfully presented for the new Esmerelda, leaving the 14.3mm diBNFUFS UPVSCJMMPO UP SFWFBM JUTFMG B NPNFOU BGUFS ZPV lSTU see the watch. The GP09400 self-winding movement beats within an 18ct pink-gold 44mm case that contains an extra long spring that increases the power reserve to 60 hours. The instant classic is priced at CHF 194,000, and for that you get just hours, minutes and seconds. But with 225 years of tradition, there was no need for GP to gild the lily with this seductive Esmerelda.

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR LUXURY WATCH OF THE YEAR

LUXURY

PATEK PHILIPPE 5396R-012 - ROSE GOLD - MEN â&#x20AC;&#x201C; COMPLICATIONS It was only 20 years ago that Patek Philippe JOUSPEVDFE JUT lSTU BOOVBM calendar, and it has been updated more than once per year ever since. In 2016, the brand has gone for one of its cleanest iterations of the watch; a simple circular 38.5mm case with an in-line double aperture in the upper half of the dial that displays the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. The date display of the Ref. 5396 is positioned in a large aperture at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. Together with the double aperture, it frames the 24-hour subsidiary dial with the moon-phase display in the lower IBMG PG UIF EJBM 8F MPWF JUT DPOldence and elegance. The new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396 is available in 18ct white gold with a dark gray sunburst dial and in 18ct rose gold with a silvery white opaline dial. Hours minutes and seconds are shown with 18ct gold Dauphine hands pointing at 18ct gold Breguet numerals.

ROLEX CELLINI DATE

THE HEARST PICK

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

The way the detail of the Cellini slowly reveals itself is our favourite feature of this classic three-hand dress watch. As the world around us becomes ever-more complex, the clean, timeless design of the 39mm white or yellow gold case ooze reassurance. The white dial on white gold is a particular favourite with white gold appliqué hour markers and hands, but variations in black, rose and rhodium are also available. Each houses the RolexNBEF DBMJCSF $04$ DFSUJlFE NFDIBOJDBM NPWFNFOU that will run for 48 hours if the bi-directional winder isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t moved. There is nowhere to hide the slightest imperfection with a Cellini. As Rolex describes it: the lines are sober BOE SFlOFE UIF NBUFSJBMT OPCMF UIF lOJTIJOHT MVYVSJPVT every detail respects the codes of the art of watchmaking.

Prices range from £11,200 up to £16,850 if you break with tradition and go with diamonds set into the bezel.

A LANGE & SOHNE SAXONIA MOON PHASE There are beautiful A. Lange & Söhne timepieces without its famous oversized date, but they leave me feeling like something is missing. ThankGVMMZ XIJMF JU JT UIF NPPO QIBTF DPNQMJDBUJPO UIBU lSTU ESBXT UIF FZF JO UIJT updated Saxonia, the date is displayed with equal pride. Beyond these two displays, there is little else to distract from the precision and beauty we FYQFDU GSPN UIJT lOF (FSNBO XBUDINBLFS 5IF DBMJCSF - JOTJEF UIF Saxonia is the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 16th movement with a moon phase. That experience allows the maker to promise that the period from new moon to new moon will be measured with an accuracy of 99.998%. Once set, and assuming that the watch runs continuously, the display only has to be corrected by one day every 122.6 years. It is as beautiful as it is accurate, thanks to the intense blue tone of its solid-gold lunar disc and the laser cut universe of 852 stars.

The hand-assembled movement doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need manually winding, but will run for up to 72 hours if left alone. The 40mm case is 9.8mm high, and is offered in white or rose gold this year.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

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LIMITED ED. SHOWSTOPPERS RISING-STARS

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS CHRONOGRAPH The 2016 line up of Overseas Chronographs is available in stainless steel for around ÂŁ20,000 and rose gold for ÂŁ32,000. The steel version comes with blue, white and brown dials while the gold edition has a silvery-white dial. &BDI XJMM lU B OFX JOUFSDIBOHFBCMF TUSBQ JO MFBUIFS TUFFM PS rubber. The blue dial is the most sporty and feels most in tune with the maritime travel connection implied by the watchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name. The watch houses a Caliber 5200 self-winding column wheel chronograph movement, developed and manufactured by Vacheron, which uses a beautiful 22ct gold oscillating weight that can be seen through the crystal caseback and will run for up to 52 hours. Every watch carries the coveted Hallmark of Geneva seal of quality and origin. Vacheron may not be best known for its sporty watches, but this latest chronograph bears comparison with the best.

CLASSIC

LADIES

MECHANICAL

INNOVATION

SPORTS

FASHION

LUXURY

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR LUXURY WATCH OF THE YEAR

BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON CHRONOGRAPH COMPLETE CALENDAR It is the moment you discover the price of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Chronograph Complete Calendar that marks this out as an exceptional luxury watch. The stainless steel edition is retailing for just ÂŁ2790 in the UK this month, and for that you get a chronograph with a complete calendar in a beautiful package. When Baume & Mercier says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Accept only perfection, only manufacture watches of the highest quality,â&#x20AC;? it truly means it in this timepiece. The watch is available in three models, each housing the Swiss-made Caliber Valjoux 7751 automatic movement. The central-hand calendar date is complemented by a day and month indication (in two apertures at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock and a day-night indicator at 9 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock). The moonphase function, incorporated in a counter at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, consists of a mobile disc that rotates in one lunar month of twenty nine and a half days. Chronograph seconds are indicated by a central seconds hand. Elapsed minutes and hours are shown on two small counters at 12 and 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock respectively, and the chronograph function is highlighted by hands in blued steel.

Options include a rose gold bezel on the 43mm case and steel or leather bracelet or strap.

PEQUIGNET CALIBRE ROYAL RUE ROYALE GMT Pequignetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Calibre Royal now features two major developments: a GMT and a EBZ OJHIU JOEJDBUPS .PSF TJHOJlDBOUMZ JU IBT DMFBOFE VQ UIF EJBM DPNQBSFE UP PWFS cluttered models in previous years, mostly due to the much smaller moonphase indicator at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, which is given room to breathe compared with last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rue Royal Collection pieces. It gives the watch a more contemporary feel that a younger customer will like and we expect it to appeal to a much larger network of UK retailers than currently support the brand. Technically, Pequignet claims the watch is alone in the world offering a UTC (aka GMT) dual time and a full calendar with triple instant jump. The Calibre Royal movement is fully made and assembled in France, and offers four complications, with the 24-hour UTC and moonphase day/night indicator joining the large date calendar and 88-hour power reserve.

The power reserve indicator is a little large, but I suppose over four days of juice is worth highlighting. The 42mm watch is available with black, white or blue faces.

5IF XIJUF TIPXT PGG UIF DMFBOFS lOJTI UIBU 1FRVJOFU IBT PQUFE GPS UIJT ZFBS

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR LUXURY WATCH OF THE YEAR

LUXURY

WEMPE CHRONOMETERWERKE AUTOMATIC Luxury jeweller Wempe is best known in London for selling top end Patek Philippes and Rolexes, but back in 2006, it started making its own watches and, now, 10 years later it has MBVODIFE JUT lSTU TFMG EFWFMPQFE TFMG XJOEJOH NPWFNFOU UIF caliber CW4. The movement is used in the Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic, which launched this summer. One of the most impressive features is the 92 hour power reserve, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s DMPTF UP GPVS EBZT BMUIPVHI PXOFST NBZ OFWFS lOE UIBU PVU if they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take off the watch because the self-winding rotor will keep it purring. The 18ct gold 41mm case is the right size for this uncomplicated watch that features only hours, minutes and seconds hands, plus a date aperture at 3 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. To see the watch with your own eyes, get down to Wempeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recently refurbished Bond Street boutique in London.

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH Some of the luxury watches selected for these pages IBWF NBEF UIF HSBEF TQFDJlDBMMZ GPS UIF JODSFEJCMF amount of watch technology they deliver in affordable packages. Audemars Piguet goes a different route with this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 41mm Royal Oak Chronograph with small seconds; trading on its history, craftsmanship, technical prowess and design to offer a stainless steel self-winding chronograph that retails for almost ÂŁ20,000.

So, is it worth it? Hell, yes.

The black dialâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;Grande Tapisserieâ&#x20AC;? pattern adorned with white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating is a masterpiece of masculinity. The self-winding Calibre 2385 with a gold oscillating weight unidirectional winder has a THE HEARST PICK 40 hour power reserve. APâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s MPZBM GPMMPXFST XJMM lOE UIF MBZPVU reassuringly familiar with its hour, minute, second and chronograph hands, plus a 30-minute counter, hours and half hours counter hand and a date aperture.

CHRONOMĂ&#x2C6;TRE FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807) was to French clock-making what John Harrison was to the English. The company now bearing his name has created the ÂŁ170,000 FB 1 in honour of the great inventor and has incorporated the architecture of his marine chronometers into the timepiece. A watertight central container houses the Calibre FB-T.FC movement, while 18-carat gold octagonal shaped decorative elements screwed to the case middle endow this watch with a resolutely masculine character. Four lateral sapphire portholes give a window into the movementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main elements including the constant-force module and the power-reserve mechanism. Meanwhile, the sapphire crystal case-back offers a panoramic view of the tourbillon as well as the fusĂŠe and chain mechanism. This chain mechanism with suspended fusĂŠe and chain transmission is another throw back to 18th century clocks. The chain measures a total 28 cm long.

The barrel drum turns in one direction when the mainspring winds down and in the opposite direction when it is wound up, which causes the chain to wrap around the drum. This power is regulated by the tourbillon and directed to the dial where it directs hours, minutes and second hands.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

23

WATCH OF THE YEAR / TRENDSETTERS

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

TRENDSETTING

TRENDSETTER WATCH OF THE YEAR TAPPING INTO POP CULTURE AND CATWALK INFLUENCES THESE WATCHES STAND OUT FOR LEADING THE WAY WHERE OTHERS SOON FOLLOW.

WINNER: BULOVA CURV

F

or a category that is all about being ahead of the curve, Bulova has taken this more literally than most in 2016. After years of research and development, the brand blew everyone away at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Baselworld exhibition by unveiling its new Curv watch, which contains the XPSME T lSTU DVSWFE DISPOPHSBQI NPWFNFOU 5IF reasoning behind the innovation is entirely practical as opposed to simply headline-grabbing; the curved movement allows the watch to gently shape around the arch of the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrist with truly stunning results. Put simply, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the most comfortable watch we have ever worn. It truly is a marvel of technical FOHJOFFSJOH XJUI JUT TMFFL EFTJHO BOE TMJN DBTF 5IF full Curv collection offers different dress and sport styles, allowing for a range of individual preferences and tastes. Although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to fall into the trap of making hyperbolic and vacuous statements about anything thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new and different, with the Curv the GVTT JT FOUJSFMZ KVTUJlFE 8F TFF UIJT BT BOZUIJOH CVU B fad and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surely just a matter of time before others jump on the bandwagon.

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR TRENDSETTING WATCH OF THE YEAR

TRENDSETTING

FURLA LINDA Furla watches arrived in the UK just in time for Christmas this year, with Zeon securing distribution rights from Morellator in Italy, which produces the watches under license.

5IF XBUDIFT VTF UIF fashion and leather working expertise of the Italian fashion brand in an extensive range for the 2016/17 season, including the Linda collection pictured here. Zeon, which owns Ingersoll and creates watches under license for Braun, Barbour BOE 7JWJFOOF 8FTUXPPE TBZT JU IBT SFDFJWFE B XBSN reception from retailers that have seen the watches.

5IF lSTU DPMMFDUJPO GFBUVSFT lWF EJGGFSFOU MJOFT GFBUVSJOH NFUBMMJD MFBUIFST BOJNBM BOE DBNPVmBHF QSJOUT 5IF XBUDIFT IBWF JOUFSDIBOHFBCMF TUSBQT XJUI BO easy-pin system, Prices range from £125-215.

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CASIO G-SHOCK GULFMASTER 5IF IFSP PG ( Shockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hugely popular SEA series, UIF (VMGNBTUFS watch returned this year with UIF (8/ Q1000. ( 4IPDL as well as becoming impressively trendy in the last few years, still has a reputation lSTU BOE GPSFNPTU BT being the archetypal TUVSEZ XBUDI 5IF (VMGNBTUFS TQFDJlDBMMZ DBUFST UP UIPTF JOEJWJEVBMT XIP FOKPZ throwing themselves about in open water, with plenty of tech-inspired treats to satisfy watersport enthusiasts of all persuasions. Featuring quad sensor technology with built-in depth gauge, digital comQBTT BMUJNFUFS BOE CBSPNFUFS UIF OFXFTU (VMGNBTUFS tracks changes in the environment to deliver essential information for those who live on or in the water.

VICTORINOX I.N.O.X TITANIUM 5IF mBHTIJQ NPEFM GSPN UIF 4XJTT BSNZ LOJGF TQFDJBMJTUT IBT set a phenomenally high standard in the past couple of years BOE T * / 0 9 5JUBOJVN IBTO U CVDLFE UIF USFOE 1PXFSGVM SPCVTU BOE TQPSUZ UIF * / 0 9 DBUFST GPS UIF PVUEPPS BDUJWF types among us; a market that seems to be forever growing.

7JDUPSJOPY CPBTUT UIBU UIF * / 0 9 JT ANBEF UP XJUITUBOE UIF FMFNFOUT TQFDJlDBMMZ TVSWJWJOH B GBMM PG NFUSFT CFJOH SVO PWFS by a 64 ton tank (you can never be too careful) or a dive down NFUSFT 5P BDIJFWF UIJT SPCVTUOFTT JU IBT CFFO EFWFMPQFE to be shockproof and anti-magnetic, as well as resistant to water, high pressure, vibrations and extreme variations in temperature.

1FSIBQT UIF NPTU FOEVSJOH UIJOH BCPVU UIF * / 0 9 JT UIBU JU combines looking as hard as nails with being striking and, frankly, handsome as well, never more so than with this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s orange TUSBQ NPEFM 7JOOJF +POFT NFFUT (FPSHF $MPPOFZ 4PSU PG

THE HEARST PICK

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR TRENDSETTING WATCH OF THE YEAR

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

OLIVIA BURTON AFTER DARK

BRAUN PRESTIGE CHRONOGRAPH For a company thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s based almost all of its output over the years on stripped back functionalist design, it is no surprise that Braunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Prestige Chronograph has stood out this ZFBS GPS FYBDUMZ UIBU 5IF brand got the attention of design-conscious hipsters everywhere by bringing back its original two iconic designers from 1962, Dieter Rams and Dietrich Lubs, to help design the new range of watches in conjunction with the expertise of the in-house team BU XBUDI IPVTF ;FPO 5IF SFTVMUT are predictably understated yet HMPSJPVT 8IFSF DISPOPHSBQIT can often look cluttered, the Prestige looks anything but. It has a clean, convenient and satisfying aesthetic, which is exactly XIBU XF WF DPNF UP FYQFDU GSPN #SBVO 5IJT HFOUT XBUDI IBT B TUBJOMFTT TUFFM DBTF BOE JT lUUFE XJUI B DISPOPHSBQI quartz movement. It is fastened with a black rubber strap and has a black dial with a date function.

TRENDSETTING

Back in 2012, what odds would you have got on Donald 5SVNQ CFDPNJOH "NFSJDBO 1SFTJEFOU -FJDFTUFS $JUZ XJOOJOH the Premier League and a simple watch design by a couple of hard-working ladies in East London becoming the pre-eminent fashion watch brand out there? Extremely high odds, to put it NJMEMZ *U JT JODSFEJCMF UP UIJOL UIBU 0MJWJB #VSUPO POMZ DBNF JOUP FYJTUFODF JO HJWFO JUT TVDDFTT BOE JOmVFODF BDSPTT UIF HMPCBM XBUDI JOEVTUSZ UPEBZ 5IF "GUFS %BSL TUZMF DPNCJOFT BO edgy matte black case with a delicate pastel leather strap and a choice of dials. A directional new style for 2016, the After Dark DPMMFDUJPO XBT POF PG 0MJWJB #VSUPO T CFTU TFMMJOH OFX MBVODIFT of the year and this timepiece demonstrates the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ongoJOH DSFEFOUJBMT GPS CFJOH B MBCFM UP TFU OFX USFOET 5IF XIPMF collection is wonderfully unfussy and pretty, but we especially MJLF UIF NPEFMT XJUI UIF mPSBM EJBMT BT UIJT HJWFT UIF XFBSFS UIF GVMM 0MJWJB #VSUPO FYQFSJFODF

TISSOT HERITAGE VISODATE AUTOMATIC 5IJT 4XBUDI (SPVQ CFIFNPUI PG B CSBOE TFMMT B IVHF volume of watches every year and yet never for one second MPPLT DIFBQ PS NBTT QSPEVDFE 5JTTPU IBT BMXBZT NBEF timepieces for tasteful and discerning ladies and gentlemen, and the Heritage Visodate Automatic is no different. It was CBDL JO UIF T UIBU 5JTTPU celebrated its centenary with a series of innovations, one of which being the integration of a date function to the automatic mechanism in the watch; here the Visodate was born. A gently curved dial mirrors the domed sapphire glass, both geared to showcase a clearly visible day and date, making the watch entirely practical whilst never THE HEARST PICK compromising on its unquestionable beauty.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

27

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR TRENDSETTING WATCH OF THE YEAR

DANIEL WELLINGTON CLASSIC BLACK TRENDSETTING

*G JU BJO U CSPLF EPO U lY JU %BOJFM 8FMMJOHUPO T EPNJOBUJPO of the phenomenally successful Scandinavian design trend in the UK watch market shows no sign of slowing down, so its Classic Black launch this year understandably represents BO FWPMVUJPO OPU B SFWPMVUJPO :PV XPO U lOE DPNQMJDBUJPOT or clutter on this watch, but instead just an exquisite black dial UIBU T BO FYUFOTJPO PG UIF mBHTIJQ $MBTTJD DPMMFDUJPO h$MBTTJD Black emphasises all the timeless and elegant characteristics that our community has come to expect from us, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re excited to introduce an instantly recognisable and eye-catchJOH FYUFOTJPO UP PVS $MBTTJD DPMMFDUJPOv TBJE 0MPG /PSETUSÃ&#x201E;N IFBE PG EFTJHO BU %BOJFM 8FMMJOHUPO "T XJUI BMM %BOJFM 8FMlington lines, the collection comes with a variety of strap opUJPOT 8F UIJOL UIF CMBDL /"50 TUSBQ PO UIF $PSOXBMM NPEFM (pictured) does justice to the watch as well as any.

AVI-8 HAWKER HARRIER II PEGASUS EDITION Aviation watch brands often struggle to differentiate themselves from the competition, but Dartmouth Brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own Avi-8 brand certainly stood out from the crowd this year with its homage to the custom-built Pegasus engine from Rolls Royce - the engine that allows a Harrier jet to hover and maneuver vertically. A Miyota Japanese made 21 jewel self-winding movement is the engine inside the watch itself, while subtle Harrier references adorn the exterior. For instance, B GSPOU QSPlMF TJMIPVFUUF PG the Harrier acts as a marker for an easier read out. Crafted out of marine grade 316 L stainless steel, another quality feature is the genuine buffalo hide leather strap with bi-colour detailing on the TJEFT XIJDI QSPWJEFT CPUI B TOVH lU BOE an attractive look. Aviation watches are timeless (no pun intended) but to present one in such an accessible and commercially appealing way is an impressive feat from this mFEHMJOH CSBOE

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2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

HENRY LONDON UNISEX HOLBORN Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just over a year since Henry London was catapulted into the spotlight in both the UK and global watch market with its simple take on vintage designs on modern, affordable watches. In that year the Henry London brand (and the product itself) has spread like XJMElSF BOE UIF desire for that inexpensive, colourful vintage aesthetic shows little sign of abating. For those that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t already know, the inspiration behind Peers Hardyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in-house brand came from an old market stall in London and a brandless old watch with simple FOHSBWJOH 5IFZ TBZ UIF simple ideas are the best. For a recommended retail price of just £125 the consumer gets themself a watch thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bang on trend and comfortable to wear.

PRESENTS

said brand is important

LUXURY

WATCH OF THE YEAR / EASY WEARING

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

EASY WEARING

TRENDSETTING

EASY WEARING WATCHES OF THE YEAR

SPORTS

THE BEST WATCHES FOR MAKING A STATEMENT ABOUT YOUR FASHION, PASSIONS AND EVERY DAY LIFESTYLE.

RISING-STARS

SHOWSTOPPERS

SMART

WOMENS

MECHANICAL

WINNER: CHRISTOPHER WARD C1 GRAND MALVERN POWER RESERVE

B

ritish watch brand Christopher Ward has created a Swissmade mechanical timepiece in its C1 Grand Malvern Power Reserve that punches well above the weight suggested by its £1550 price tag. Every watch from the Christopher Ward stable is a little different this year thanks to a redesign of its brand logo that adorns every new watch face. The new logo is a clear sans serif of the name, a simplicity that is picked up by the C1 Grand Malvern. Senior Designer Adrian Buchmann has created an Englishstyled watch that he says is inspired by the tactile and dynamic lines of an Aston Martin DB9 and the Malvern landscape. It would take a CFUUFS FZF UIBO 8BUDI1SP T UP QJDL PVU UIPTF JOmVFODFT CVU XF DFStainly do know an instant, everyday, classic when we see one. We parUJDVMBSMZ MJLF UIF IPVS QPXFS SFTFSWF PG UIF $04$ DFSUJlFE $BMJCSF SH21 visible at 9 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, just to make sure everybody knows there is a NFDIBOJDBM DISPOPHSBQI NPWFNFOU CFIJOE UIF mBXMFTT EJBM

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

JUNGHANS MEISTER DRIVER CHRONOSCOPE Junghans is best known for its Max Bill in the UK, but the brand is most proud of the Meister Driver chronoscope, which has been created as an homage to the enthusiastic car collector Arthur Junghans, son of the company founder Erhard Junghans. Arthur Junghans began buying cars in 1892 at the very dawn of the automobile industry. His passion is shared by Dr. Hans-Jochem Steim and Hannes Steim, current owners of Junghans, who have added to a museum of cars covering 110 years of automobile history. It is this museum that provides inspiration for the designs of the Meister Driver Chronoscope collection, with the dial reminiscent of the Handaufzug model picking out the style of a classic dashboard speedometer.

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THE HEARST PICK

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR EASY WEARING WATCH OF THE YEAR

PAUL SMITH TRACK

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO CUORE FERRAGAMO 5IF lSTU UJNFQJFDFT DBSSZJOH UIF 4BMWBUPSF 'FSSBHBNP OBNF were launched in 2008, thanks to a licensing agreement with Timex Group Luxury Watches. The plan was to create beautifully crafted watches that combine the value and image of the Italian fashion house with Swiss watch-making excellence. Thankfully, Timex has avoided the temptation to pump out mass market fashion watches, and concentrated instead on high quality workmanship, materials and design. The Cuore Ferragamo is a good example and a perfect gift for that special lady in a romantic’s life. The stand out feature of this timepiece is the dial decorated with a gold IP, steel or red enamel heart that “beats” once a second as its two halves separate and then reunite, driven by a patented device. Search for the watch on Youtube to see a video of how this looks. It’s cuter than it sounds and works well on a glamorous timepiece retailing for around £1650-1800 depending on materials.

Black on black is a fashion trend from apparel that made a massive mark in watches this year. The utilitarian, almost brutalist feel of the men’s Armani Exchange AX2104 conjours up images of TUFBMUI lHIUFS KFUT BOE UIBU IBT DFSUBJOMZ been appealing to the its customers this year. Watch Shop lists it as its number one bestseller from the Fossil-owned brand. The watch uses black ionplated steel on the large, 47mm, case and bracelet, while the dial has black baton hour markers, hands and A|X logo. The watch uses a Japanese Quartz movement, featuring a date function at 3 o’clock. Well-priced at £135, the timepiece is hitting the mark with people wanting an easy wearing but masculine watch for every day use with a famous fashion label on the face.

CALVIN KLEIN SNAKE The spring summer collection from Calvin Klein saw the launch of Snake as a watch and jewellery style featuring bands in the structured, geometric, angular style of a serpent’s skin.

The 28mm ladies’ watch has a round face with no hours or second markers, just a clean dial carrying the Calvin Klein logo. Swatch Group, which makes Calvin Klein watches under license, has been successfully promoting the brand to men and women, and the snake theme is one that would work as well with both genders. We like the version with a bright white watch face on polished stainless steel cases and bracelet, but it is also offered with white face on pink gold PVD and black face on steel. Priced at just under £200, we expect this to be under the Christmas tree of many appreciative ladies this year.

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EASY WEARING

Paul Smith is a well-known lover of cycling on both the streets of London and racing tracks for professional athletes. It is the sport of cycling that provides inspiration for the Track collection of men’s watches, which borrow design elements from classic stopwatches used in the velodrome.

The design of the watch dial is simple and clean, but Paul Smith adds a bit of brand DNA in the form of subtle dots of colour at every hour index. The addition of a dark red second hand references the traditional stopwatch design.

Track is a slim watch with a three-hand movement and a 41mm case. The range has a wide range of SKUs with black and brown leather strap models and steel and Black PVD coated Milanese bracelets. The case metals are available in stainless steel, rose-gold plating and black PVD plating with a range of coloured dials, including; blue, silver and black. Prices range from £179-229.

ARMANI EXCHANGE AX2104

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR EASY WEARING WATCH OF THE YEAR

EASY WEARING

ETERNA GRANGE Eterna is celebrating its 160th anniversary this year. The brand can trace its ancestry back to its foundation in Granges in 1856, a location and date that explain the name of the limited edition Grange 1856 timepiece that has been created to mark this landmark year. The watch, which uses the Eterna 3030 calibre, is designed, produced and assembled by Eterna in ten different polished steel models. It is available in Roman or Arabic numerals with a radiant silver, anthracite, midnight blue or light bronze dial background. Steel, brown or black calf leather alligator pattern straps are all options. The Calibre 3030 automatic is Eterna’s thinnest mechanical movement. A key feature is its large date display, created using two independent number disks, which make them more readable. The 42mm watches retail for £4400 with a leather strap and £4600 with a steel bracelet.

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

TIMEX WEEKENDER FAIRFIELD Timex is competing in almost every affordable watch category this year with sporty digital watches, minimalist unisex models, pilot watches, chronographs and even activity trackers. The piece that TUBOET PVU GPS VT JT UIF 8FFLFOE 'BJSlFME collection, which has the relaxed vibe people associate with a long Sunday brunch. The circular watches could be worn by men or women. They look smaller than 41mm, thanks to the stripped back minimalism of their Scandinavian-inspired design.

Several colour combinations are available, but the blue leather strap version with a white face and steel case feels both modern and classic. The more adventurous might go for a black case and dial and tan leather strap, but that feels a bit less chilled than we’d like for a weekend watch.

ROTARY ULTRASLIM DREYFUSS & CO CALIBRE 39 Dreyfuss & Co. introduced the Calibre 39 as the hero piece of its 1924 collection, named after the Calibre 39 hand wound movement provided by Eterna. The collection is made to honour the legacy of René Dreyfuss, the company’s founder and master horologist, who committed his life to creating quality Swiss-made timepieces. The Calibre 39 watch has a clean analogue display and aviator aesthetic with large luminescent Arabic hour markers and hands. Housed in a sturdy 45mm case featuring a double angled bezel with polJTIFE MJQ BOE mBU TDSBUDI SFTJTUBOU EPVCMF DPBUFE BOUJ SFmFDUJWF Sapphire glass. The Limited Edition 1924 Calibre 39 (250 units) with 65 hour power reserve and 20 jewels has curved parallel lugs and a high quality cut away canvas strap for maximum comfort to the wearer.

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Swiss watch brand Rotary unveiled a new generation Ultra Slim watches this year. At just 4.7mm thick, the in-house designed watches push the boundaries to offer the brand’s slimmest watch to date.

6MUSB 4MJN QSFTFOUT B SFlOFE DMBTTJD MJHIUXFJHIU XBUDI DPMMFDUJPO GPS both ladies and gents, with prices ranging from £229 to £299. Each timepiece has been equipped with a reliable quartz movement housed in either a 36mm or 27mm polished case. The new designs feature a sunburst patterned two step dial outlined by distinctive Roman numeral hour markers or applied indexes. In addition, each piece has been shielded with a sapphire glass. Ultra slim watches have been a big trend for 2016, with many watch brands showcasing thin designs at this year’s Basel show. The new Rotary collection is available with a seven link bracelet or a leather strap.

SPORTS / WATCH OF THE YEAR

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SPORTS ACTIVITY WATCH OF THE YEAR A STRONG CATEGORY, THESE ROBUST WATCHES ARE PERFECTLY SUITED TO THE GREAT OUTDOORS AND A COMPETITIVE SPIRIT WITH FUNCTIONALITY TO MATCH

SPORTS

WINNER: TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY BRONZE

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

F

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EBERHARD & CO SCAFOGRAF 300

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CLERC HYDROSCAPH H1 CHRONOMETER

RISING-STARS

SHOWSTOPPERS

SMART

4PNFUJNFT JU TFFNT UIBU B CSBOE MJLF $MFSD IBT UP USZ UIBU CJU IBSEFS UIBO JUT NPSF JMMVTUSJPVT QFFST UP TUBOE VQ BOE CF OPUJDFE #BTFE JO (FOFWB PXOFS (ยนSBME $MFSD EPFTO U KVTU LFFQ UIF FQPOZNPVT XBUDI CSBOE HPJOH CVU BMTP USJFT UP JOOPWBUF BOE FYQBOE UIF CVTJOFTT BMM UIF UJNF 5IJT QBTTJPO DPNFT UISPVHI JO UIF )ZESPTDBQI ) $ISPOPNFUFS B GPSNJEBCMF VOEFSXBUFS FYQMPSJOH NBDIJOF 5IF PWFS FOHJOFFSFE DBTF DPOTUSVDUJPO FOBCMFT JU UP QMVOHF BT EFFQ BT NFUSFT JO DPNQMFUF TBGFUZ UIBOLT UP $MFSD T FYDMVTJWF QBUFOUFE TBGFUZ GFBUVSFT XIJMF UIF FYDMVTJWF TFMG XJOEJOH $MFSD $BMJCSF $ CFBUJOH BU UIF IFBSU PG JU IBT SFDFJWFE $04$ DFSUJlDBUJPO UIFSFCZ KPJOJOH UIF TFMFDU DJS DMF PG BVUIFOUJD DISPOPNFUFST 5IF TJHOBUVSF CF[FM LFZ MPDBUFE BU UIF P DMPDL QPTJUJPO PQFSBUFT BOE MPDLT UIF CF[FM BOE JT B SFBM TFMMJOH QPJOU )BOE DSBGUFE JO 4XJU[FSMBOE BOE DPNJOH XJUI B ZFBS JOUFSOBUJPOBM XBSSBOUZ UIF )ZESPTDBQI ) $ISPOPNFUFS JT OPU UP CF VOEFSFTUJNBUFE BOE IPMET JUT PXO OFYU UP BOZ PG UIF PUIFS CSJMMJBOU XBUDIFT JO UIJT DBUFHPSZ

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2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL AIR-KING

WOMENS

MECHANICAL

QUARTZ

SPORTS

FASHION

TRENDSETTING

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SPORTS WATCH OF THE YEAR

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SPORTS WATCH OF THE YEAR

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BALL ENGINEER MASTER II DIVER WORLDTIME

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BREMONT REGATTA OTUSA 5IFSF T OPU NVDI UIBU DBO CF TBJE BCPVU #SFNPOU UIBU IBTO U BMSFBEZ CFFO TBJE 5IF #SJUJTI XBUDI HJBOU DBO OFWFS CF BDDVTFE PG SFTUJOH PO JUT MBVSFMT BT QSPWFO JO XJUI JUT 3FHBUUB 0564" NPEFM 5IF XBUDI DBNF BCPVU BT B SFTVMU PG #SFNPOU T BTTPDJBUJPO XJUI UIF XPSME GBNPVT "NFSJDB T $VQ BOE NPSF TQFDJlDBMMZ JUT TQPOTPSTIJQ PG 0SBDMF 5FBN 64" 5IF 3FHBUUB 0564" XBUDI NPWFNFOUT IBWF CFFO EFTJHOFE UP TIPX B OVNFSJDBM NJOVUF EJTQMBZ DPVOUEPXO BOE B NJOVUF TUBSU UJNF 'VSUIFSNPSF UIF XBUDIFT IBWF B IPVS DPVOUFS BOE B EBUF GVODUJPO XIJDI JT OPU POMZ IBSE UP JOUFHSBUF BMUPHFUIFS CVU JT BMTP SBSFMZ TFFO PO 3FHBUUB NPWFNFOUT 5IF 3FHBUUB 0564" XJMM CF QSPEVDFE JO CPUI CMBDL BOE XIJUF EJBM WBSJBOUT BOE PG FBDI XBUDI XJMM CF NBEF *O BO BEEFE RVJSL UIBU T TVSF UP QMFBTF #SFNPOU BOE TBJMJOH GBOT BMJLF #SFNPOU IBT JODPS QPSBUFE IJHI HSBEF DBSCPO lCSF GSPN UIF XJOOJOH 0SBDMF 5FBN 64" "$ ZBDIU JOUP FBDI PG UIF DSPXOT

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SPORTS

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SPORTS WATCH OF THE YEAR

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

FESTINA CHRONO BIKE

SPORTS

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

TAG HEUER AQUARACER 300M CERAMIC â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;MATCH TIMERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; PREMIER LEAGUE SPECIAL EDITION 8JUI UIF VOQSFEJDUBCMF NBE ZFU CSJMMJBOU +FBO $MBVEF #JWFS BU UIF IFMN 5"( )FVFS T GPSUVOFT IBWF CFFO USBOTGPSNFE JO UIF QBTU NPOUIT 0G DPVSTF JU IFMQT UP IBWF B TFFNJOHMZ CPUUPN MFTT NBSLFUJOH CVEHFU CFIJOE ZPV CVU UIFSF IBWF CFFO PUIFS CSBOET UIBU IBWF TQFOU CJH XJUIPVU BDIJFWJOH UIF TBNF MFWFM PG TVDDFTT 5IF CJH BOOPVODFNFOU JO XBT UIBU 5"( )FVFS XPVME CF UIF 0GlDJBM 5JNFLFFQFS PG UIF 1SFNJFS -FBHVF UIF CJHHFTU BOE NPTU QPQV MBS GPPUCBMM MFBHVF JO UIF XPSME CZ NJMFT 5IJT TQFDJBM FEJUJPO BJNT UP CSJOH UIF FYDJUFNFOU PG B 1SFNJFS -FBHVF GPPUCBMM NBUDI UP MJGF GPS UIF XFBSFS *UT TUBOEPVU GFBUVSF JT JUT A.BUDI 5JNFS GVODUJPO XIJDI BMMPXT XFBSFST UP UJNF B HBNF BDDV SBUFMZ OP NBUUFS XIBU UJNF JU TUBSUT 5IF XBUDI T VOJ EJSFDUJPOBM SPUBUJOH CF[FM GFB UVSFT B QPMJTIFE CMBDL DFSBNJD JOTFSU XJUI FOHSBWFE TJMWFS OVNFSBMT VQ UP NJOVUFT GPS UJNJOH B IBMG BOE SFE FOHSBWFE OVNFSBMT CFUXFFO BOE NJOVUFT GPS UJNJOH FYUSB UJNF 5IF 1SFNJFS -FBHVF -JPO -PHP GFBUVSFT PO UIF BOUISBDJUF EJBM BU P DMPDL BOE BT BO FOHSBWJOH PO UIF DBTF CBDL

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SEIKO PROSPEX SSG001P1 "OZ XBUDI UIBU IBT /PWBL %KPLPWJD BT JUT BN CBTTBEPS NVTU CF POF GPS TQPSUT QVSJTUT SJHIU 4FJLP NBSLFUT UIF 1SPTQFY DPMMFDUJPO BT CFJOH h4FSJPVT XBUDIFT GPS TFSJPVT TQPSUT v BOE UIF XBUDINBLJOH QPXFSIPVTF JT USVF UP JUT XPSE 5IF 44( 1 NPEFM DPNFT XJUI BMM UIF CFMMT BOE XIJTUMFT UIBU B MFHJUJNBUF EJWFST UJNFQJFDF JT FYQFDUFE UP DPNF XJUI BOE NPSF B TDSFX EPXO DSPXO SPUBUJOH CF[FM BOE XBUFS SFTJTUBODF VQ UP N "T XJUI BMM HSFBU TQPSUT XBUDIFT JU T JN QPSUBOU UIBU QSBDUJDBMJUZ JT DPNCJOFE XJUI HPPE MPPLT BOE UIF 44( 1 T TUBJOMFTT TUFFM DBTF BOE CSBDFMFU MFOE B DSVDJBM EBQQFS UPVDI 4JODF JUT lSTU EJWJOH XBUDI JO 4FJLP IBT CFFO BJNJOH UP FYDFFE UIF FYQFDUBUJPOT PG UIPTF XIPTF TQPSUT SFRVJSF XBUDIFT XJUI TQFDJlDBUJPOT UIBU BSF BT DMPTF UP QSPGFTTJPOBM BT QPTTJCMF BOE UIF 1SPTQFY 44( 1 JT BOPUIFS DBTF JO QPJOU

73%

Felt more favourable towards the brand

73%

Showed The Little Watch Book to friends

LUXURY

WATCH OF THE YEAR / QUARTZ

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

FASHION

TRENDSETTING

QUARTZ WATCH OF THE YEAR

QUARTZ

SPORTS

QUARTZ WATCHES ACCOUNT FOR THE VAST MAJORITY OF SALES BY VOLUME WORLDWIDE. SO THIS YEAR QUARTZ WATCHES GET THEIR OWN DEDICATED CATEGORY.

MECHANICAL

WINNER: INGERSOLL CHRONICLE THE TRENTON MEN’S CHRONOGRAPH

R

RISING-STARS

SHOWSTOPPERS

SMART

WOMENS

obert H Ingersoll and Henry Ford were pioneers of automated manufacturing when they began building watches and cars almost simultaneously in America at the end of 19th century. The mission then was the same as today: to create quality products that ordinary Americans could afford, spreading timekeeping beyond the grip of just a wealthy elite.

British watchmaker Zeon, which owns IngerTPMM SFWJWFE UIF CSBOE UIJT ZFBS BOE JUT lSTU collection has been warmly received by the trade and consumers. The current watches aim for the same quality with affordability as original Ingersolls. The Trenton Men’s quartz chronograph, for example, shows its class with a genuine Horween leather strap and its reliability with a lifetime guarantee, priced at just £300.

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WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR QUARTZ WATCH OF THE YEAR

SEKONDA MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NIGHT FALL CHRONOGRAPH

During a recent interview with David Sanchez, Maurice Lacroixâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s R&D director, we asked which watch of the current collection made him most proud. We thought the epic Masterpiece Chronograph Skeleton, on sale now at CW Sellors for ÂŁ6090, might be top of the pile, but instead he cooed BCPVU UIF RVBSU[ CBTFE &MJSPT DISPOPHSBQI mZJOH PGG UIF shelves of John Lewis for ÂŁ610. Maurice Lacroix has embraced a reputation for being affordable, but the push into sub-ÂŁ1000 watches has been important this year to increase the volume of customers that know the brand. An Eliros owner today could be a grand complication buyer of the future. The Eliros is all about wearability, and the blue sub-brushed dial with silver hand, Roman numerals and clean date window at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock leave plenty of room for the three sub-dial chronograph functions.

It hits the right notes for 2016, but is also timeless in its style. The Maurice Lacroix brand logo on the dark blue leather strap is a particularly nice touch.

QUARTZ

Sekonda has sold more watches in the UK than any other brand since its creation in 1966. The breadth and depth of its line up of affordable timepieces is second to none, and cannot be overlooked in the search for the best quartz watch of the year. But which model to choose from among pieces that appeal to people of every age, gender and lifestyle? Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve gone for the Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Night Fall Chronograph because retailers love it. The model features in the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current advertising, which is driving sales. Its dark face and contrasting rose gold details catch the eye, and it is feature rich with three chronograph sub dials and a date aperture. All for under ÂŁ80. Punters love it too. Over 60 ratings from customers at John Lewis and Watch Shop have given it an overall 5-star rating.

MAURICE LACROIX ELIROS

SHINOLA RUNWELL CHRONO

THE HEARST PICK

The Donald Trump presidency promises to revive rust belt cities like Detroit, where the decimation of the car making industry has hollowed out the region. Fighting the same battle one watch at a time is Shinola, which is bringing manufacturing back to motor city. The design of watches like the 47mm Shinola Runwell Chrono JT B SFmFDUJPO PG UIJT NJTTJPO JU JT UPVHI SVHHFE built to last and no-nonsense. The only chronograph watch that tracks the return of American industry with split second precision, the brand says. Shinola takes the no frills choice of an Argonite 5021 high-accuracy quartz movement to drive the hours, minutes, date indicator, stopwatch function, and multiple subdials. At ÂŁ645, the watch is priced to last a lifetime.

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR QUARTZ WATCH OF THE YEAR

BERING MEN’S BLACK TITANIUM DAY/DATE THE HEARST PICK

HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD

QUARTZ

The Khaki Field is offered as an automatic chronograph and an automatic day date, but it is the £340 quartz edition that makes most sense, given the brand’s military heritage that dictates the need for accuracy and reliability. Hamilton is in a dark mood in 2016, with black the predominate colour across the Khaki Field line, although they all have hour markers and hands coated with grey Super-LumiNova to ensure they are easy to read when on manoeuvres.

Brushed steel cases give way to black PVD coated stainless steel cases and rubber black straps with 3D pattern and Hamilton signature H-shaped pin buckles. The black dials have a sunray centre, diamond-cut middle ring and printed numerals.

ACCURIST MEN’S CLASSIC 7058 This year’s Christmas advertising campaign for Accurist features the 7058 worn by an impossibly well-groomed man. Who would not want to be that man with the impeccable taste required to select this gun metal grey classic gentleman’s watch? Since acquiring Accurist, Time Products has dramatically improved the design, build quality and promotion of the brand. The £85 7058 Men’s Classic does everything well. The textured dark grey dial provides a solid industrial foundation to clear and clean steel hands and markers, with a day/date aperture at 3 o’clock. We particularly like the new Accurist logo with its swirling capital @ symbol linking it to the modern digital world. Wherever you look for Accurist on the internet, this model is a bestseller; reestablishing the British watch brand as one that retailers cannot afford to overlook.

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2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Denmark’s Bering has always aimed to create wearable, lightweight watches, so it was no surprise to see titanium work its way into the company’s designs this year. The £179 Men’s Black Titanium Day/ Date is a solid reference model, which is available in a range of colours including black with red day and date subdials and the blue with blue subdials shown here, which we particularly admire. The use of titanium makes the watches fashionable, sporty, ultra-light and durable (sold with a three year warranty). It is a comfortable size at 39mm across by 10mm deep, and feels even slimmer due to the way the watch case fuses into the mesh titanium bracelet.

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR QUARTZ WATCH OF THE YEAR

2016

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QUARTZ

CLOGAU TREE OF LIFE FILIGREE Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bet against Welsh jewellery brand turning womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watches into a winning business line. The company has a considerable network of loyal retailers throughout the UK and a well developed channel of TV shopping channels, airline and duty free clients. The new watches are designed to complement the jewellery brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Welsh heritage and distinctive style and feature iconic designs like the Tree of Life 'JMJHSFF QJDUVSFE BOE #VUUFSmZ design in recognisable rose tones with the Clogau name engraved around the bezel. Clogau has also introduced the Welsh Poppy watch, which it says aims to capture the FMFHBODF PG UIF QPQQZ mPXFS *U IBT a gold plated watch face, held by a red leather strap and gold plated buckle, as well as 9ct gold hands and detailing. The watches retail for around ÂŁ330.

STORM LONDON CRYSTANA Storm London is in love with jewel colours this year. Its website is like a game of Candy Crush Saga with a cacophony of red, blue, purple and green dials housed in watch face shapes ranging from ovals to rectangles to hexagons. The Storm Crystana range combines the full bag of candy in one collection.

The slightly oval cases is 32mm wide by 36mm tall and holds a distinctive crystal cut glass over watch faces that come in almost every jewel colour you can image. At ÂŁ140, this is one of the more expensive Storm London families, but its 21ct rose gold plating gives it a luxury feel. The product images donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really do the watches justice. They are genuinely striking when you see them on the wrist.

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CERTINA DS PODIUM CHRONOGRAPH 1/100 SEC Swatch-owned Certina has organised its portfolio into four lines this year: Urban, Heritage, Aqua and Sport. The Swiss business has always been best-known as a sports watch maker, and it is the category that houses its best piece this year, the DS Podium Chronograph 1/100 sec.

The well-loved line has been given a new ETA Precidrive quartz movement for 2016 that brings greater precision to the 44mm timepiece. There are also a number of fresh design options including a model with a PVD all-blackcase on a brown leather strap stitched in contrasting anthracite. The rose gold detailing on the watch face give it an expensive aesthetic. The motor sport heritage for which Certina is famous makes the steel bracelet or rubber strap options feel like strong variations. Prices range from ÂŁ375-495.

Zeon Ltd +44 (0) 20 8208 1833 sales@zeonltd.co.uk

FURLA.COM

WATCH OF THE YEAR / MECHANICAL

2016

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MECHANICAL WATCH OF THE YEAR

FROM THOSE MAKING THEIR FIRST FORAY INTO MECHANICAL WATCHES TO THOSE PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES, THE BRANDS IN THIS LINE UP HAVE LED BY EXAMPLE IN 2014.

MECHANICAL

WINNER: CARTIER DRIVE DE CARTIER

B

ack at the SIHH exhibition in January, Cartier introduced the cushion shaped Drive de Cartier collection, which ranges from a £5000 steel edition with just small second dial and date aperture, up to an 18ct gold version costing £18,200 that features a large date at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, retrograde second time zone at 10 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, day/ night indicator at half past three and small seconds at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. There was even a limited edition model with a tourbillon at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. Naturally, we gravitated towards the top end, admiring the 40x41mm 18ct gold case housing the self-winding calibre 1904 MC mechanical movement. The classic silvered dial with blued steel sword shaped hands pointing at black Roman numerals, partially obscured in places by the complications, is a thing of beauty. Even UIF DIPJDF PG UIF TFNJ NBUU lOJTI PG UIF BMMJHBUPS TLJO TUSBQ XBT GBVMUMFTT GPS B watch we admire very much indeed.

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

THE HEARST PICK

ZENITH ACADEMY TOURBILLON GEORGES FAVRE-JACOT Zenithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, had a restless mind that pushed the company to innovate and experiment when it opened its manufacturing facility in 1865.

This drive for innovation can take the company in unhelpful directions that distract from its technical and creative excellence. But a new El Primero Calibre 4805 movement combining tourbillon and a fusée and chain transmission system deserves a positive reception from Zenith fans. It is used in the limited edition Academy Tourbillon Georges Favre-Jacot, which has no dial, but instead builds the face using bridges between the key organs of the movement. 150 pieces are being made of the muscular 45mm ceramic watch whose darkness is designed to draw the eye towards the three key elements: the tourbillon at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, the train transmission at 2 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock and the fusée at 10 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. A power reserve display that measures up to 50 hours is almost invisible between the transmission and the tourbillon.

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR MECHANICAL WATCH OF THE YEAR

NOMOS GLASHĂ&#x153;TTE MINIMATIK

FABERGĂ&#x2030; VISIONNAIRE DTZ -FHFOEBSZ KFXFMMFS 'BCFSHš lSTU lOF XBUDI DPMMFDtion introduced in 2015 was warmly received by luxury fashion, jewellery and horology experts, encouraging the maison to open a timepiece workshop in Geneva UP ESJWF JUT EFWFMPQNFOU 5IF lSTU GSVJUT PG UIBU XPSLshop appeared this year, and watch experts are purring at the creativity of the ÂŁ23,600 Visionnaire. The watch, using an adapted AGH 6924 calibre, displays two time zones simultaneously. The hours and minutes of the local time zone circle around a raised, decorated dome located at the centre of the dial where the hour of another time zone is viewed through a large aperture. An additional theatrical touch is a dial side rotor, visible beneath the dialâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colour-matched sapphire crystal hour ring.

ORIS DIVERS SIXTY-FIVE GREEN DIAL Oris added a green-dialled model to its hugely successful Divers Sixty-Five collection in 2016, giving people with the original blue version a reason to rush back to their nearest Beaverbrooks. The Sixty-Five was revived in 2015 as a direct descendent of an early Oris diverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watch from 1965. The watch retains a number of retro details including its slim line case, thin bezel with 60-minute scale, and trapezoid date window, but adds modern enhancements such BT lMMJOH UIF MVNJOPVT IBOET BOE IPVS markets with Super-LumiNova in place of the tritium used in the 1960s. Inside its multipiece stainless steel case is a Swiss Made Oris Cal. 733 automatic movement, based on a Sellita SW 200-1, with date at 3 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. The new green dial creates a strong contrast with the hour markers, hands and bezel marker, while four strap and bracelet options â&#x20AC;&#x201C; rubber, brushed steel, leather and textile â&#x20AC;&#x201C; add mFYJCJMJUZ BOE GVSUIFS GSFTIOFTT

PANERAI RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS GMT AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO

MECHANICAL

The in-house built calibre DUW 3001 is the star of the NOMOS GlashĂźtte Minimatik because its height of just 3.2mm and width of 28.8mm allows for the creation of a timepiece of perfect minimalist proportions. The movement, designed by Theodor Prenzel, is incredibly thin and exactly made, losing less than 6% of its energy to friction so that it runs longer, while the NOMOS swing system in-house escapement regulates the automatic movement to chronograph accuracy. You can see the movement through a sapphire case back, but from the front all the German engineering is concealed behind a bright, silver-plated, white dial with red hour, minute and second hands. Tiny minute markers of blue and gold all but disappear between larger grey numbers, quirkily displaying the hours of 2, 4, 8, 10 and 12. The watch has won several awards for design this year, including a gong from the respected German Design Council.

LUXURY

2016

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Panerai introduced four new models to its Radiomir 1940 line up this year, ensuring enthusiasts of the Italian brand have a range of creative dial designs and technical features to choose from. Behind the dials, two new automatic calibres have been developed and made in house by the Panerai Manufacture team in Neuchâtel. The two 3 Days GMT use the new P.4001 movement while the 3 Days GMT Power Reserves (pictured) use the P.4002. Both calibres use the same off-centre bi-directional micro rotor, two spring barrels delivering three days of power, and a mechanism for stopping the balance, which helps set the watch precisely. There is more to see on the dial than Panerai normally offers, but they are no less legible.

The design remains faithfully inspired by the historic examples created by Panerai for the commandos of the Italian Navy in around 5IF DBTF JT NBEF PG TUBJOMFTT TUFFM XJUI B QPMJTIFE lOJTI BOE water resistant to 100m.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR MECHANICAL WATCH OF THE YEAR

BREITLING AVENGER HURRICANE

BREGUET TRADITION DAME 7038

MECHANICAL

Gender politics, being what they are today, mean that watchNBLFST OP MPOHFS EFlOF MBEJFT XBUDIFT CZ UIFJS TJ[F BOE UIJT 37mm masterpiece proves that they arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t scrimping on delivering incredible artistry and complexity either. Women with a penchant for prestigious watchmaking and keen on acquiring an iconic timepiece will be won over by this elegant and technical Breguet Tradition watch, which features a mother of pearl dial exhibiting almost all the movement components on either side of the mainplate. The self-winding watch features a central barrel, a sub dial at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock bearing hands directly driven by the barrel, as well as a balance-wheel and intermediate wheels forming an arc stretching from 4 to 8 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. The 18ct white gold case is studded with brilliant-cut diamonds around the bezel.

GARRICK PORTSMOUTH Garrick was the toast of British watch collectors when it presented its new Portsmouth at SalonQP in November. At the heart of the timepiece is a new hand-wound Garrick movement, designed

by British watchmaker Simon Michlmayr and the movement specialist, Andreas Strehler. The movement parts are manufactured both in the UK and Switzerland before being assembled Garrickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Norfolk workshop. The company does not intend to dramatically ramp up production for the ÂŁ17,995 watch, so customers may have to be patient once they place an order. But we have waited a long time for high quality watchmaking to return to Britain, so we can wait a little bit longer for pieces as beautiful and impressive as the Portsmouth.

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2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

THE HEARST PICK

Heads-up displays may have replaced much PG UIF JOGPSNBUJPO lHIUFS QJMPUT VTFE UP VTF UIFJS #SFJUMJOHT GPS CVU UIBU EPFTO U TUPQ BlDJPOBEPT BQpreciating the connection between the brand and its heritage. Nor does it deter Breitling from designing timepieces with supersonic combat in mind. The latest Hurricane, priced today at ÂŁ6810, illustrates the point with its ultra-sturdy and ultra-light 50mm case made in a trademarked alloy named Breitlight. The new chronograph pushes the boundaries in terms of instruments for professionals, with sturdy construction equipped with lateral protective reinforcements and an all-black look enhanced by yellow accents and aviation-inspired stencil-type numerals, the company says. The new $04$ DFSUJlFE #SFJUMJOH $BMJCFS # TFMG winding chronograph works behind a black dial with 24-hour clock markers surrounded by a black bezel. Breitlight is perhaps the biggest leap forward because it has allowed the creation of a case that is 3.3 times lighter than it would be if made from titanium and 5.8 times lighter than steel, without compromising on strength and durability.

MONTBLANC 1858 CHRONOGRAPH TACHYMETER LIMITED EDITION Richemontâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Montblanc acquired Minerva in the Swiss canton of Villeret in 2007 and uses its movements in most mechanical watches. Minerva can trace its roots back to 1858, the year that Montblanc uses in this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition, which won best chronograph at Novemberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grand Prix Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Horlogerie in Geneva. Only 100 pieces are being made of this limited edition, each priced at around ÂŁ24,000.

The aim of the manual hand-winding watch is to celebrate both traditional Swiss artisanal watchmaking and the rich heritage of Montblancâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Villeret Manufacture, but also offer a modern feel in the large 44mm stainless steel case. The blue alligator strap and deep blue dial are as contemporary as its tachymetric scale for measuring speeds over distance is traditional for a chronograph.

LUXURY

LADIES / WATCH OF THE YEAR

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

LADIESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; WATCH OF THE YEAR WE SUM UP THE BEST ON OFFER FOR WOMEN, ACKNOWLEDGING WHERE LOOKS AND COMPLICATIONS COMBINE WITH FANTASTIC RESULTS.

WINNER: DKNY MINETTA

F

WINNER

LADIES

PTTJM (SPVQ IBT CFFO lHIUJOH GPS UXP ZFBST UP lOE B GBTIJPO XBUDI UIBU NJHIU DPNF DMPTF UP SFQFBUJOH UIF TVDDFTT PG JUT .JDIBFM ,PST #SBETIBX 5IF HSPVQ CFMJFWFT JU NJHIU IBWF GPVOE JU XJUI UIF %,/: .JOFUUB MJOF XIJDI XBT JOUSPEVDFE UIJT BVUVNO *U JT UIF lSTU DPMMFDUJPO GSPN B OFX UFBN PG DSFBUJWF EJSFDUPST XIJDI IBWF UBLFO UIF CSBOE JO B NPSF SFlOFE EJSFDUJPO 5IF OFX TMJN DBTF XBT JOTQJSFE CZ UIF DMFBO NPEFSO JNBHFSZ BOE TUZMJOH GSPN UIF %,/: SFBEZ UP XFBS -BVODI $PMMFDUJPO 5IF XBUDI JT PGGFSFE JO UXP TJ[FT n NN BOE NN n FBDI XJUI BO PQFO FBTZ SFBE EJBM UISFF IBOE NPWFNFOU BOE TMJN UPQ SJOH LFFQJOH XJUI UIF NJOJNBMJTU USFOE 5IF XBUDIFT BSF PGGFSFE XJUI B TUFFM CSBDFMFU PS B lOF HSBJO MFBUIFS PQUJPO JO B SBOHF PG NPEFSO DPMPVST 'PTTJM TBZT UIBU UIF VOJTFY NN /: TUFFM FEJUJPO b JT UIF CFTU TFMMFS UIJT ZFBS GPMMPXFE CZ UIF b /: SPTF HPME XJUI MFBUIFS TUSBQ CPUI QJDUVSFE *OTJEFST BU 'PTTJM (SPVQ UFMM 8BUDI1SP UIBU JT HPJOH UP CF 5IF :FBS GPS %,/:

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR LADIES WATCH OF THE YEAR

LONGINES DOLCEVITA L5.255.5.79.7

LADIES

4JODF JUT JODFQUJPO UIF -POHJOFT %PMDF7JUB IBT FNCPEJFE UIF FBTZ HPJOH *UBMJBO XBZ PG MJGF JO B XBUDI 5IJT ZFBS -POHJOFT JOUSPEVDFT UXP UPOF NPEFMT CMFOEJOH SPTF HPME BOE TUFFM 5IF TPMJE SPTF HPME DSPXO BOE UIF UPVDI PG QJOL PO UIF EJBM XPSL JO IBSNPOZ XJUI UIF SPTF HPME BOE TUFFM XBUDI CBOE 5IF NPEFMT BSF BWBJMBCMF JO GPVS TJ[FT BOE IPVTF B RVBSU[ NPWFNFOU GSPOUFE CZ B TJMWFS DPMPVSFE hmJORVยนv EJBM BEPSOFE XJUI QBJOUFE 3PNBO OVNFSBMT BOE B CMBDL MBDRVFSFE PS XIJUF NPUIFS PG QFBSM EJBM FOIBODFE XJUI EJBNPOE JOEFYFT 5IF TNBMM Y NN %PMDF7JUB

PIAGET LIMELIGHT GALA MILANESE BRACELET

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

THE HEARST PICK

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real watches for real people

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Automatic mechanical movement Unidirectional revolving bezel Top ring with black aluminium inlay Water resistant to 10 bar/100 m

www.oris.ch

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR LADIES WATCH OF THE YEAR

JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE DUO

SPORTS

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2016

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THE HEARST PICK

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR LADIES WATCH OF THE YEAR

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

GC LADYCHIC CABLE COLLECTION "O JOUSJDBUF XJSF EFUBJM DSFBUJOH B TJMWFS DBCMF CF[FM JT UIF LFZ EFTJHO GFBUVSF PG UIJT ZFBS T ($ -BEZ$IJD XIJDI DPNFT JO B NN WFSTJPO DPTUJOH b BOE B NN FEJUJPO DPTUJOH b #PUI QJDL VQ UIF DBCMF EFUBJM JO UIFJS CSBDFMFUT BOE PO UIF DSPXOT *O UIF DBTF PG UIF NN QJFDF JU JT VTFE BT B DPOUSBTUJOH DPMPVS UP UIF CSBDFMFU T HPME MJOL " NVMUJ MBZFSFE EJBM XJUI B NPUIFS PG QFBSM PVUFS SJOH BOE B TVOSBZ JOOFS SJOH HJWFT UIF XBUDIFT B GFNJOJOF DIBSBDUFS BT UIFZ DBUDI UIF MJHIU #PUI TJ[FT PG UIF -BEZ$IJD DPNF UISFF DPMPVS XBZT GSPN BO BMM TUFFM WFSTJPO XJUI SPTF HPME BDDFOUT BOE B UXP UPOF SPTF HPME 17% BOE TUFFM WFSTJPO 5IF OFX TUFFM NPEFM XJUI UXP UPOF QMVN QVSQMF 17% JT QFSGFDUMZ JO UVOF XJUI UIJT FOE PG UIF ZFBS CPIFNJBO DPMPVS USFOE

SPORTS

SEKSY ENTICE LADIES 4FLTZ UIF MBEJFT GBTIJPO CSBOE TJTUFS UP 4FLPOEB JT BEWFSUJTJOH JUT &OUJDF -BEJFT MJOF PO UIF UFMMZ UIJT ZFBS 5IF b CMBDL DFSBNJD FEJUJPO TUVEEFE XJUI 4XBSPWTLJ DSZTUBMT MPPLT GBOUBTUJD BT MJHIU CPVODFT PGG UIF TQBSLMJOH TIJOZ TVSGBDFT 5IF QFUJUF NN XBUDI DPNFT JO B SBOHF PG GBTIJPOBCMF lOJTIFT JODMVEJOH CMVF DFSBNJD XJUI HPME EFUBJMT XIJUF DFSBNJD XJUI HPME EFUBJMT CPUI PG XIJDI BSF JOFYQMJDBCMZ b NPSF FYQFOTJWF UIBO UIF CMBDL WFSTJPO UIBU UIFZ CMFX UIF NBSLFUJOH CVEHFU PO

LADIES

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ORB POP #SJUJTI XBUDI DPNQBOZ ;FPO IBT CFFO NBLJOH 7JWJFOOF 8FTUXPPE UJNFQJFDFT VOEFS MJDFOTF TJODF BOE UIF QBSUOFSTIJQ JT HFUUJOH CFUUFS FWFSZ ZFBS .T 8FTUXPPE BMXBZT GPVHIU GPS UIF GPSHPUUFO XIJDI NBEF IFS FZF XBUFSJOHMZ FYQFOTJWF DBUXBML GBTIJPO MBCFM TPNFXIBU DPVOUFS JOUVJUJWF 5IBU DIBSHF DBO U CF MFWFMMFE BU UIF NPSF BDDFTTJCMF 0SC 8BUDI DPMMFDUJPO XIJDI SFUBJMT GPS BSPVOE b PS b XJUI B TJMWFS BOE HPME DPMPVSFE TUFFM CSBDFMFU 3FGFSFODFT UP 7JWJFOOF 8FTUXPPE T EFTJHOT BSF TFFO JO UIF MFBUIFS XBUDI TUSBQT XIJDI IBWF B IBUDIFE EFTJHO XJUI B IJOU UPXBSET UBSUBO BOE UIF PSC UIBU IBOHT GSPN UIF SPVOE XBUDI GBDF XIJDI JT TFFO UISPVHIPVU UIF EFTJHOFS T DPMMFDUJPOT JODMVEJOH IFS KFXFMMFSZ MJOFT 5IF XBUDIFT DPOUBJO 4XJTT NBEF NPWFNFOUT XJUIJO UIFJS NN TUBJOMFTT TUFFM DBTFT 4VCUMF DPMPVS DIBOHFT HJWF DVTUPNFST DIPJDF BDSPTT B NPEFTU SBOHF PG TUZMFT UIBU JODMVEF WFSTJPOT XJUI CMVF BOE DSFBN TUSBQT

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

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WATCH OF THE YEAR / SMART

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SMART WATCH OF THE YEAR

THE GREATEST CHALLENGE AND OPPORTUNITY FACING THE TRADITIONAL WATCH INDUSTRY SINCE THE MASS UPTAKE OF QUARTZ MOVEMENTS.

WINNER: BARCLAYS BPAY

T

SMART

he winner of this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Smartwatch of the Year is not a smartwatch, it is a platform with the potential to ignite sales of smartwatches because it is genuinely useful and easy to use. Barclays bPay Loop is a contactless payment system that lets people pay for stuff using their smartwatch. This is not entirely new, but has been made much more convenient and secure thanks to the way bPay works, which is to set it up with a prepaid credit to spend, rather than a direct link to a bank account. The payment XPSLT VTJOH B QSPQSJFUBSZ TZTUFN DBMMFE C1BZ -PPQ XIJDI IBT B OFBS lFME DPNmunication (NFC) chip in it that can be slipped onto any watch strap. This year it XBT BMTP JODPSQPSBUFE JOUP (BSNJO lUOFTT USBDLFST BOE .POEBJOF XBUDIFT 5IF .POEBJOF QBSUOFSTIJQ JT TJHOJlDBOU CFDBVTF JU QVUT DPOUBDUMFTT QBZNFOU JOUP a normal watch. If the idea takes-off, traditionalists will be able to stick with the beauty and artistry of their analogue watches, but will have the payment system available at the cock of their wrist. Not only will people be able to pay for their Starbucks coffee using their watches, they will also be able to tap in and out of public transport such as the London Underground and the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busses.

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

BOSS CLASSIC SMARTWATCH 5IF lSTU GPSBZ JOUP UIF DPOOFDUFE XSJTUXFBS XPSME GPS )VHP #PTT EPFT OPU UBLF UIF brand far from the heritage of clean, classic styling that it sticks to across its apparel and accessories. The Boss Classic Smartwatch is designed for men with taste and ambition, the brand says, although at £299, it is an affordable treat for almost everybody.

"U lSTU JU BQQFBST UP CF B TUZMJTI USBEJUJPOBM UJNFQJFDF CVU PO DMPTF JOTQFDUJPO JU IBT B UJOZ TDSFFO KVTU CFMPX UIF DFOUSF PG UIF EJBM GPS NFTTBHFT 5IJT XJMM EJTQMBZ OPUJlDBUJPOT BCPVU BDUJWJUZ USBDLJOH FWFOU SFNJOEFST BOE NFTTBHFT IBWJOH lSTU BMFSUFE UIF XFBSFS that something new has arrived with a gentle vibration. The screenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hunger for power means that the watch does need recharging regularly, but the analogue watch will always LFFQ XPSLJOH FWFO JG UIF DPOOFDUFE UFDIOPMPHZ SVOT PVU PG KVJDF 5IF lSTU DPMMFDUJPO BMSFBEZ on sale at Ernest Jones, is offered with a leather strap and stainless steel or rose-gold dial.

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SMART WATCH OF THE YEAR

MICHAEL KORS ACCESS BRADSHAW

THE HEARST PICK

Retailers that have secured the Access connected timepieces say they are PVUTFMMJOH UIF FRVJWBMFOU .JDIBFM ,PST quartz watches. Demand even surprised 'PTTJM (SPVQ 6, .% 3JDIBSE $PMMJOT who revealed in October that sell out on wearables has put a smart watch style BT OVNCFS POF 4,6 JO UIF TBMFT NJY The £375 Access Bradshaw Ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; XJUI HPME QMBUJOH .,5 JT EFlighting young women twice over.

First, they get a buzz from getting the gold Bradshaw back on UIFJS XSJTUT IBWJOH lSTU GBMMFO JO love with the quartz version a few years ago. Secondly, they can now check their social media feeds and lUOFTT USBDLJOH XJUIPVU SVNNBHJOH around in handbags for their phones.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not to like!

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT LADIESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; HOROLOGICAL SMARTWATCH 2 R

CITIZEN ECO-DRIVE PROXIMITY $JUJ[FO T &DP %SJWF 1SPYJNJUZ DPOOFDUFE UJNFQJFDF LFFQT JUT smart features running continuously without a battery thanks to solar power charging. Its watch functions are top end as well, feaUVSJOH B POF TFDPOE DISPOPHSBQI NFBTVSJOH VQ UP NJOVUFT alarm, perpetual calendar, 12/24 hour time, dual time, power reTFSWF JOEJDBUPS BOE MJHIU MFWFM QPXFS JOEJDBUPS 5IF 1SPYJNJUZ BQQ activates the automatic date and time synchronisation and Link -PTT XIJDI BMMPXT ZPV UP MPDBUF ZPVS QIPOF BOE OPUJlDBUJPO BOE DBMM lMUFSJOH UIBU MFUT ZPV NBOBHF BMFSUT GSPN TFMFDUFE DPOUBDUT *Ocoming messages to a phone will trigger a vibration on the watch, plus the second hand sweeps to point at various icons on the dial SJOH UIBU EFOPUF XIFUIFS UIFSF JT BO JODPNJOH DBMM FNBJM 4.4 Facetime, a calendar event or social media alerts. We particularly like the latest black steel edition, retailing for £429. It is substantial, at 46mm across the case, but packs everything a watch lover and tech enthusiast would want into a piece that never needs to be charged.

TAG HEUER CONNECTED 5IF HBNCMF GSPN 5"( )FVFS UP FOUFS UIF TNBSUXBUDI SBDF JT QBZJOH PGG 1SPEVDUJPO PG UIF lSTU b 5"( )FVFS $POOFDUFE XBT JOJUJBMMZ TFU BU BSPVOE VOJUT QFS XFFL 5IJT XBT BMNPTU JNNFEJBUFMZ JODSFBTFE UP VOJUT BT retailers reported that the watches were selling out with pre-orders before going on sale to the public. Technological upgrades have fol- THE HEARST PICK MPXFE CVU QFSIBQT UIF NPSF TJHOJlDBOU move this year has been the creation of B b MVYVSZ FEJUJPO JO B SPTF HPME case that reminds the world that TAG is lSTU BOE GPSFNPTU B MVYVSZ 4XJTT XBUDImaker. All models come in a 46mm case housing computer power designed by Intel and running Android Wear. It has 4GB of memory and a lithium battery providing one day PG QPXFS 5IF XBUDI JT lUUFE XJUI a small microphone enabling the wearer to communicate with it using Google Voice control, as well as a sapphire crystal touchscreen, to be used alongside the command push button at 3 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock.

The watch is designed to be water-resistant.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

SMART

It has been over a year since Frederique Constant inUSPEVDFE JUT lSTU )PSPMPHJDBM 4NBSUXBUDI *O UIBU UJNF UIF DPNQBOZ IBT CFFO CPVHIU CZ $JUJ[FO (SPVQ BMUIPVHI ..5 the Frederique Constant subsidiary that produces the smartwatch technology that goes into the watches was not bought and is OPX HPJOH JU BMPOF ..5 aims to be the movement manufacturer of choice for any watch brand that wants to add smart features to their timepieces. For now, Frederique Constant is the primary customer for these connected movements, and has just moved to a second generation of integrated circuits including UIF ..5 XIJDI JT TNBMM FOPVHI UP lU JOUP B GFNBMF friendly 34mm case while still maintaining 2 years of CBUUFSZ MJGF B TJHOJlDBOU BDIJFWFNFOU CFDBVTF CBUUFSJFT BSF UIF CVMLJFTU DPNQPOFOU 1SJDFT GPS MBEJFT QJFDFT TUBSU BU b JODSFBTJOH UP b GPS B SPTF HPME QMBUFE NPEFM XJUI EJBNPOET

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

53

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SMART WATCH OF THE YEAR

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SKAGEN HAGEN CONNECTED HYBRID

NIXON THE MISSION /JYPO T 5IF .JTTJPO SVOT PO (PPHMF T "OESPJE 8FBS QMBUGPSN BOE lSNXBSF GSPN 2VBMDPNN BOE JT CFJOH QSPNPUFE BT UIF XPSME T lSTU VMUSB SVHHFE TNBSUXBUDI CVJMU UP XJUITUBOE BO BDUJWF lifestyle in the water, on the mountain and beyond. The chunky NN .JTTJPO DPNFT XJUI (PPHMF 'JU (PPHMF .BQT (PPHMF /PX OPUJlDBUJPOT BOE UIF WPJDF TFBSDI BOE BDUJPO DBQBCJMJUJFT BT well as a suite of custom applications tailored to action sports and third party app compatibility. Pairing this innovative software with an ultra-rugged, water-resistant design and standalone GPS alMPXT JOEJWJEVBMT UP FOKPZ 5IF .JTTJPO T UFDIOPMPHZ BOE UIJSE QBSUZ BQQT SFHBSEMFTT PG FOWJSPONFOU DPOEJUJPOT /JYPO TFMMT UIF XBUDI on its own ecommerce website, which encourages customers to tailor their watches using different options for the case, bezel, band, and face. It is also be available from Snow & Rock Sports in UIF 6, XJUI QSJDFT TUBSUJOH BU b

SMART

APPLE WATCH SERIES 2 Watch Series 2 honed Appleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s technology and marketing NFTTBHF UP GPDVT BMNPTU FOUJSFMZ PO IFBMUI BOE lUOFTT 'JUOFTT tracking is still the number one function that users of connected wristwear demand, and Apple has delivered two highly desirable GFBUVSFT XJUI XBUFSQSPPlOH BOE (14 XIJDI BMMPXT QFPQMF UP leave their smartphones behind. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re thrilled with the response to Apple Watch and how itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s changed peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lives. We are comNJUUFE UP lUOFTT BOE IFBMUI BOE UIJOL PVS DVTUPNFST XJMM MPWF the new capabilities of Apple Watch Series 2,â&#x20AC;? said Jeff Williams, "QQMF T DIJFG PQFSBUJOH PGlDFS BU UIF XFBSBCMF T MBVODI JO 4FQUFNber. â&#x20AC;&#x153;With a powerful new dual-core processor, water resistance NFUFST BOE CVJMU JO (14 "QQMF 8BUDI 4FSJFT JT QBDLFE XJUI features to help our customers live a healthy life,â&#x20AC;? he added.

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

.BSLFUJOH QFPQMF MPWF UP EFTDSJCF FWFSZCPEZ BT B DFSUBJO type, and their current favourite is the millennial generation. You know the crowd: bearded, no socks, loves tech and Bauhausinspired minimalist design. Scandinavian watch brands adore these guys, and Denmarkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skagen has them clearly in its sights XJUI UIF )BHFO $POOFDUFE IZCSJE TNBSUXBUDI XIJDI IBT UIF clean lines millennials crave and the smart features they appreciate such as automatic time and date adjustment, activity BOE HPBM USBDLJOH TMFFQ USBDLJOH lMUFSFE FNBJM BOE UFYU OPUJlDBUJPOT *U FWFO MFUT IJQTUFST TOBQ B QIPUP BOE control their music with the push of a button on the watch, if that isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sooooo spring/summer )BHFO $POOFDUFE JT DPNQBUJCMF with Android and iOS phones, where most of the tracking information is crunched, shared and displayed.

Usefully, the watch runs on a standard coin-cell battery with VQ UP TJY NPOUIT PG CBUUFSZ MJGF *U sells for ÂŁ195, and is available in a variety of dial colours including blue, black and white. Leather BOE .JMBOFTF NFTI TUSBQT BSF offered.

GUESS CONNECT The threat and opportunity of smartwatches has seen different brands take dramatically different approaches. Tech companies are cramming advanced computational features, while Swiss businesses like Frederique Constant trade on the heritage of their traditional designs. Guess is a fashion brand, and knows how to TFMM UIF WJTJPO PG B MJGFTUZMF XIJDI JT FYBDUMZ XIBU UIFZ IBWF EPOF with their Connect line of watches. They are the perfect Spring accessory, the brand said at Baselworld, as they revealed the timeQJFDFT UIBU VTF .BSUJBO UFDIOPMPHZ UP UFUIFS UIF XBUDIFT UP UIFJS TNBSUQIPOF BQQT .FO T and ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; version have been created in case diameters of 45mm and 41mm respectively. A vast range of lOJTIFT DPMPVST BOE NBUFSJals are offered in the different dials, cases, bezels and straps with prices ranging GSPN b 5IF UBLF VQ GSPN UIF 6, T NBKPS XBUDI multiples has been impressively strong, most of them realising that they have to offer stylish connected timepieces this Christmas.

MARCH 23  30, 2017 BASEL  SWITZERLAND

Witness the

DAWN OF TRENDS Baselworld is the single-most important trendsetting

market and witness the start of a new trendsetting cycle

show for the world’s watch and jewellery industry.

for the year.

What makes it unmissable is the fact that only here will you find all the key players representing every sector

Seize the unique opportunity to experience the interplay

of the industry together under one roof. Baselworld is

of passion and precision to create perfection. We

where the most prestigious international brands

invite you to join us at Baselworld, where you will be

unveil their innovations, creations and new collections

awe-struck by the spectacular pavilions, amazed at the

in the presence of world-class buyers and the global

new collections, and be amongst those who are a part of

press, all of whom unite here to take the pulse of the

history in the making!

See you at Baselworld 2017

BASELWORLD.COM

LUXURY

SHOW STOPPER / WATCH OF THE YEAR

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SHOW STOPPER OF THE YEAR THESE ARE TIMEPIECES THAT CAUGHT OUR EYE EITHER FOR EXTRAORDINARY HOROLOGICAL INNOVATION, OR FOR AN EXTREME EXPRESSION OF DESIGN.

WINNER: BELL & ROSS BR-X1 HYPERSTELLAR

B

WINNER

SHOWSTOPPERS

ell & Ross arranges its watches into collections associated with air, land and sea; and very often with their equivalent militaries of army, air force and navy. The BR-X1 Hyperstellar chronograph aims even higher, having been conceived to be worn by astronauts as they journey into space. Every detail has been considered for use in space including ergonomic push-buttons suitable for astronauts with gloves, dial details ensuring optimal time reading and extra lightweight construction to conform to payload limits. The cover, centre and surround of the 45mm case are made from polished and micro-blasted grade 5 titanium, while the bezelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s protective insert is in blue anodised aluminium, to combine lightness and strength. To protect it from impacts during missions, the square case of the BR-X1 is covered with a bumper in micro-blasted titanium and rubber that acts as a peripheral protective shell. The most show stopping edition is cased entirely in TBQQIJSF DSZTUBM 0OMZ lWF BSF CFJOH NBEF BOE despite being priced at around â&#x201A;¬500,000, four have already been sold.

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

THE HEARST PICK

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SHOW STOPPER OF THE YEAR

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SUPERSONNERIE "VEFNBST 1JHVFU QSPEVDFE UIF lOFTU DIJNF UP SFBDI PVS FBST BU UIJT ZFBS T 4*)) 5IJT XBT OP mVLF BT UIF CSBOE XPSLFE XJUI UIF 4XJTT 'FEFSBM Institute of Technology in Lausanne, one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading research institutes of physical sciences and engineering to produce the perfect note for its latest minute repeater. The partnership pioneered a chiming mechanism producing a sound that delights the human senses. The limited edition has gone on sale in AP boutiques in November for around $)' 5IF Y NN UJUBOJVN DBTF JT BMTP DBSFGVMMZ DPOTJEFSFE for the way it conducts the sound. The watchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s minute repeater on two gongs, tourbillon, chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter, hours, minutes, are created using the hand-wound ManufacUVSF $BMJCSF h5IJT UJNFQJFDF JT QSFDJTJPO NBEF UP BXBLFO TPVOE *U CSJOHT VOQSFDFEFOUFE BDPVTUJD QFSGPSNBODF FYDFQUJPOBMMZ SFlOFE TPVOE RVBMJUZ BOE UIF DMFBS IBSNPOJD UPOF PG USBEJUJPOBM QPDLFU XBUDIFT UP B DPOtemporary minute repeater wristwatch,â&#x20AC;? AP says.

4BMFT BSF VQ UIJT ZFBS GPS 3JDIBSE .JMMF UIBOLT UP JUT strategy of producing limited quantities of high end, highMZ DSFBUJWF NFDIBOJDBM UJNFQJFDFT 5IF 3. ,POHP 5PVSCJMMPO JT B DMBTTJD FYBNQMF 5IF b UJNFQJFDF XBT DSFBUFE JO DPOKVODUJPO XJUI $ZSJM 1IBO 'SBODF T FRVJWBMFOU PG HSBGlUJ BSUJTU #BOLTZ *U BQQFBST BT B CMVS PG colour, but on closer inspection you can see that each JOEJWJEVBM DPNQPOFOU IBT CFFO IBOE QBJOUFE n XPSL that was actually done by Mr Phan under a microsope. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It UPPL PWFS B ZFBS PG FYQFSJNFOUBUJPO PG UPPMT BOE GPS NF UP CF DBQBCMF PG QBJOUJOH PO B XBUDI TPNF lWF DFOUJNFtres square. Certain pieces were barely a few millimetres long, some even smaller, and I had to put the lettering directly on them, enough for visual effect but without using much paint so as to avoid throwing off the balance of the movement,â&#x20AC;?

Mr Phan recalls.

THE HEARST PICK

RISING-STARS

SHOWSTOPPERS

RICHARD MILLE RM 68-01 KONGO TOURBILLON

58

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN XL 700P 1JBHFU NBZ CF CFTU LOPXO GPS JUT VMUSB UIJO NFDIBOJcal movements, but it can also trace its history of deWFMPQJOH RVBSU[ NPWFNFOUT CBDL UP UIF T *O GBDU JUT lSTU RVBSU[ NPWFNFOU XBT DSFBUFE ZFBST BHP JO BO BOOJWFSTBSZ UIBU UIF DPNQBOZ DFMFCSBUFT CZ adding quartz technology into the mechanical movement of the Caliber 700P, which delivers the accuracy PG RVBSU[ XJUI UIF USBEJUJPOBM XBUDINBLJOH PG BO BVUPmatic. Combining a mechanical caliber with a quartz regulator in the Emperador Coussin XL concept watch highlights two QFSGFDUMZ NBTUFSFE TLJMMT GPSNJOH part of the Manufactureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heritage, the company says. The high frequency of the quartz, WJCSBUJOH BU )[ DPOtrols the speed of rotation of the regulator and of the gear-train. This allows for a very high degree of accuracy and offers greater resistance both to NBHOFUJD lFMET BOE UP UIF negative effects of gravity. The limited edition is presented as a shape within a shape: a cushionTIBQFE NN EJBNFUFS DBTF JO white gold sits within rounded bezel. +VTU QJFDFT XFSF NBEF

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SHOW STOPPER OF THE YEAR

TAG HEUER CARRERA HEUER-O2T CHRONOGRAPH WITH FLYING TOURBILLON At around £12,000, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-O2T is one PG UIF NPTU DPNQFUJUJWFMZ QSJDFE $04$ DFSUJlFE DISPOPHSBQIT XJUI mZJOH UPVSCJMMPO PO PGGFS GSPN B NBKPS CSBOE 5IF QSJDJOH PG TVDI BO BEWBODFE QBDLBHF JT OPU B POF PGG GPS 5"( BT JUT $&0 Jean-Claude Biver explained in conversation with WatchPro at UIF MBVODI h8IFUIFS JU JT B $)' XBUDI PS B $)' watch, the perceived price must always be at least four times higher. We thought it would be interesting to start building our own tourbillon movements but, should we do this, the condition would be to present a tourbillon watch with a perceived value four times higher than the retail price. We wanted to have a QFSDFJWFE WBMVF CFUXFFO $)' BOE $)' $)' which would request a retail QSJDF CFUXFFO $)' BOE $)' v IF SFvealed. The muscular 45mm watch is made from lightweight titanium and houses a Calibre HEUER-02T, a movement developed directly from the %/" PG UIF $) DISPOPHSBQI There are no stated limits to the production run of the O2T, although B #MBDL 1IBOUPN WFSTJPO QSJDFE BU b JT MJNJUFE UP OVNCFSFE pieces.

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

ARNOLD & SON ROYAL COLLECTION NEBULA Part of Arnold & Sonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Royal Collection, the Nebula timepiece has been so called because its bridges radiate from the perimeter of the dial toward the centre, its sculptural movement MPPLT MJLF BO JOWFSUFE exploded star. The watch has a threedimensional, openXPSL NPWFNFOU and dial, offering a view into the heart of the in-house manufacture calibre. Two mainspring barrels, providing a healthy 90 hours power reserve, are seen in symmetry with the small secPOET EJTQMBZ BU TFWFO BOE lWF P DMPDL 5IF EJBM JT GPSNFE PG movement bridges compared to the standard four and highly legible central hours and minutes rotate above the movement that was developed to be open with the most technically interesting and animated mechanisms, including the barrels, gear train, balance and escapement, and winding mechanism visible from the front. The Nebula is available in a 41.5mm red gold or TUBJOMFTT TUFFM DBTF XJUI B TBQQIJSF DSZTUBM EJTQMBZ CBDL

RAYMOND WEIL MAESTRO BEATLES

SHOWSTOPPERS

Show stoppers come in many guises, and the Raymond Weil Maestro #FBUMFT JT NPSF VOEFSTUBUFE UIBO NPTU *U XBT UIF XPSL UIBU XFOU JO CFhind the scenes, which made the watch possible, that we most admire.

Putting The Beatles name to anything requires myriad agreements from JUT PXOFST BOE UIBU T CFGPSF UIF EFTJHO XBT lOBMJTFE JT 3BZNPOE 8FJM T UI BOOJWFSTBSZ BOE JU NBSLFE UIF PDDBTJPO XJUI UIF DSFBUJPO of the Maestro Beatles, limited to just 3000 pieces selling for £975. The watch features a mechanical, self-winding movement inside a 39.5mm stainless steel case. The name of The Beatles 13 albums decorate the dial with McCartney, Lennon, Harrison and Starr themselves depicted in their )FMQ QPTF BU UIF GPVS P DMPDL QPTJUJPO *U BMTP GFBUVSFT 5IF #FBUMFT PGlDJBM MPHP BOE B EBUF XJOEPX BU UIF UISFF P DMPDL 5IF MPHP JT BMTP QSFTFOU PO UIF TNPLFE TBQQIJSF DSZTUBM DBTFCBDL XJUI FOHSBWFE MJNJUFE FEJUJPO OVNber. The launch created a major buzz at Baselworld, and was used to raise UIF QSPlMF PG 3BZNPOE 8FJM UISPVHIPVU UIF ZFBS 5IF QSPHSBNNF XBT TP TVDDFTTGVM JU MFE UP 3BZNPOE 8FJM XJOOJOH UIF .BSLFUJOH 5FBN PG UIF :FBS BU UIF 8BUDI1SP "XBSET

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SHOW STOPPER OF THE YEAR

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

HYT H2 TRADITION Vincent Perriard, chief executive of the hydraulically inclined IBVUF IPSMPHFSJF XBUDI CSBOE ):5 TBJE IF XPVME OFWFS DSFBUF B SFHVMBS TIBQFE XSJTUXBUDI 8F IBWF BMXBZT BENJSFE ):5 T EJGGFSences, but the classic shape of its H2 Tradition is a welcome addiUJPO UP UIF VODPOWFOUJPOBM CSBOE /PU POMZ JT UIF NN XBUDI an accepted shape, it also uses classical decorative techniques and features such as guilloche, lacquered dials and blued hands. " NPWF UP B SFHVMBUPS TUZMF EJBM MBZPVU NFBOU B NBKPS SFXPSLJOH of the movement by long-term development partners Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi (APRP) which produced the complicated manually-wound mechanical movement that uses blue liquid in a tube to indicate the hours. Just 50 pieces of the white gold and titanium H2 Tradition will be produced. The price at launch was b

SHOWSTOPPERS

HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO SAPPHIRE Hublot caught the watch worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention with the VOWFJMJOH PG JUT .1 -B'FSSBSJ 4BQQIJSF QSPKFDU JO which housed its engine-inspired movement inside an oversized all sapphire case. The project was really about EFNPOTUSBUJOH UIF DPNQBOZ T BCJMJUZ UP XPSL XJUI TBQQIJSF B TLJMM UIBU JT OPX QVU UP XPSL JO UIF DSFBUJPO PG 500 Big Bang Unico Sapphire models cut straight from sapphire. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, says it is a technical and creative marvel. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A transparent case that reveals the soul of the watchâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the Unico movement â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and an absolute transparency extending to the strap. The Big Bang is laying itself bare. It has nothing to hide and everything to show,â&#x20AC;? he says.

The greatest achievement is managing to ramp up production of the all-sapphire 45mm cases to 500 units, UIF lSTU UJNF UIBU sapphire has been cut on such a large scale. The cases house a HUB 1242 UNICO AutoNBUJD mZCBDL DISPOPHSBQI with column wheel and double clutch visible on the dial side.

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE PERPETUAL Having created the perpetual calendar movement once, you XPVME UIJOL UIF XBUDINBLJOH DPNNVOJUZ XPVME CSFBUIF B TJHI PG SFMJFG BOE VTF UIF TBNF BSDIJUFDUVSF JO QFSQFUVJUZ /PU .# ' XIJDI XFOU CBDL UP UIF ESBXJOH CPBSE UP DSFBUF B CSBOE OFX JO house movement controlled by what it calls a mechanical processor. Most perpetual calendars, which are designed fundamentally GPS EBZ NPOUIT CVU IBWF B NFDIBOJTN UP TLJQ RVJDLMZ UP UIF TU PG B OFX NPOUI GPMMPXJOH B PS EBZ NPOUI 5IF -. 1FSQFUVBM HPFT UIF PUIFS XBZ SPVOE TUBSUJOH GSPN B EBZ NPOUI BOE inserting extra days in the 11 longer months. With such an innovative movement, you will want to see it in action, and this is possible UISPVHI UIF PQFO EJBM BOE UIF TBQQIJSF DSZTUBM CBDL 5IF GBDF IBT hours and minutes nestled between the arches of the balance at P DMPDL EBZ PG UIF XFFL BU P DMPDL QPXFS SFTFSWF JOEJDBUPS BU P DMPDL NPOUI BU P DMPDL SFUSPHSBEF MFBQ ZFBS JOEJDBUPS BU P DMPDL BOE EBUF BU P DMPDL 0OMZ 50 pieces have been produced so far, half JO DU HPME BOE half in platinum QSJDFE BU $)'

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WATCH OF THE YEAR / MECHANICAL

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WATCHES TO WATCH OF THE YEAR WE REVEAL THE BRANDS THAT MADE AN IMPRESSION IN THE UK THIS YEAR AND THAT WE ARE LIKELY TO HEAR MUCH MORE FROM IN 2017.

WINNER: FIYTA WATCHES MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 3D TIME SKELETON

F

iyta Watches are already making a mark in the UK, EFTQJUF POMZ BQQSPBDIJOH UIJT NBSLFU GPS UIF lSTU time in 2016, and they should be a watch to watch in 2017 because the brand is already massive in its home country of China. This is helping Fiyta offer an FYUFOTJWF SBOHF UP SFUBJMFST 0OF PG JUT lSTU PVUMFUT 8BUDI 4IPQ has almost 100 models on sale this Christmas ranging from delicate ladies models costing under £150 up to limited edition menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s automatic chronographs in a black ion-plated titanium case selling for £775. It is the sort of brand that lends itself to online retailers that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to dedicate too much valuable physical cabinet space to an unknown brand. A best selling NPEFM JT UIF 'JZUB .FO T % 5JNF 4LFMFUPO "VUPNBUJD b

which has an interesting domed glass that highlights an aperture in the centre of the dial where the movement is exposed.

WATCHES OF THE YEAR 2016

WINNER

WATCHES TO WATCH

WILLIAM L. 1985 William L. is the creation of entrepreneur Guillame Laidet, who began his horological career at Zenith before moving to Jaeger LeCoultre and then leaving to launch his own comQBOZ " SPVOE PG DSPXEGVOEJOH MBTU ZFBS SBJTFE Ã&#x152; JO B NPOUI BOE DBVHIU UIF FZF PG B Paris-based angel investor who pumped in an additional â&#x201A;¬1 million. The investment and supQPSU BMMPXFE .S -BJEFU UP QVU 4,6T PG B EFCVU DPMMFDUJPO JOUP QSPEVDUJPO BOE TUBSU TQFBLing to distributors, which led to a partnership with AFH Distribution in the UK. The watches BSF JOTQJSFE .S -BJEFU T MPWF PG B T WJOUBHF DISPOPHSBQI BOE MFE IJN UP DSFBUF B NPEFSO DISPOPHSBQI DPMMFDUJPO CBTFE PO UIF WJOUBHF EFTJHO 5IFZ DPNQFUF JO UIF TVC b NBSLFU and appeal to people looking for retro design watches at bargain price points. Models include two sizes of chronographs, a vintage calendar and a vintage chronograph.

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR WATCHES TO WATCH OF THE YEAR

AVIATOR BRISTOL SCOUT

HERITOR MONTCLAIR

"WJBUPS UPPL mJHIU BU UIF UVSO PG UIF DFOUVSZ XJUI B NJTsion to create watches that appeal to the airman in everybody. By 2015, the brand was distributed in 35 countries.

All its watches would look good on a pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wrist, whether they prefer a vintage style of a more technical aesthetic.

Visibility and readability are carefully considered in all "WJBUPS XBUDIFT XJUI 4VQFS-VNJOPWB JOEFYFT BOE BOUJ SFmFDUJWF DPBUJOH PO UIF TDSFFO &WFSZ "WJBUPS XBUDI JT OPX BTTFNCMFE JO 4XJU[FSMBOE 5IF CSBOE IBT DIPTFO UP compete in the sub-ÂŁ500 market with this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collecUJPOT XIJDI JODMVEFT UIF #SJTUPM 4DPVU QJDUVSFE XIJDI VTFT BO BVUPNBUJD 4FMMJUB 48 NPWFNFOU UP QSFTFOU IPVST NJOVUFT B TFDPOE DPVOUFS BU P DMPDL BOE B EBUF BU P DMPDL 4FWFSBM NPEFMT BSF available with different dial, case and strap options.

Heritor is not a brand you are likely to have heard of until we featured it on the cover of the November edition of WatchPro. The reason the brand is tipped for success next year is not so much because of the watches, but more because of the business model of its distributor, Resultco.

The way Resultco works is to provide brick and mortar retailers with a broad range of watch brands that they can instantly add to their websites. Resultco then NBOBHFT GVMlMMNFOU SFUVSOT BOE repairs of all watches that are sold.

It also continually updates the selection of watch brands, and helps to generate sales by advertising via e-mails and social media.

There are currently around 20 watch brands offered by Resultco.

We particularly like the on-trend sandalwood design of the Heritor .POUDMBJS XIJDI SFUBJMT GPS b JO UIF UK. The skeletonised face shows off a jewelled automatic movement, that can also be seen through a crystal caseback.

KARTEL HUME

ANIMA KRONABY WATCH 3

A business unit in Dundee doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite have the same SPNBODF BT UIF BUFMJFST PG +VSB CVU 4DPUUJTI XBUDI CSBOE ,BSUFM JT IBQQZ JO JUT IPNF BOE JT QSPEVDJOH 4DBOEJ JOTQJSFE UJNFQJFDF EFTJHOT UIBU BSF lOEJOH GBWPVS XJUI NJMMFOOJBM DVTUPNFST DSBWJOH DMFBO BOE TJNQMF MJOFT &MFHBOU clean and timeless are the watchwords of Kartel. Its KT)6.& .. 44 JT UZQJDBM XIJDI IBT B TJMWFS TVOSBZ FGGFDU NJOJNBM XBUDI EJBM JO B NN DBTF 5IF TJNQMJDJUZ MFBWFT nowhere to hide imperfections, so Kartel works hard on delivering the highest quality it can, despite retail prices of BSPVOE b UIF )VNF JT POMZ b 5IF DPNQBOZ LFFQT costs as low as it can by assembling in its own production facilities and cutting out middlemen. A particularly nice UPVDI JT UIF VTF PG 4DPUUJTI )BSSJT 5XFFE GPS UIF 5BSCFSU collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand-woven straps.

4XFEJTI UFDIOPMPHZ DPNQBOZ "OJNB IBT DPOlSNFE a January launch date for Kronaby, a new contempoSBSZ XBUDI CSBOE 5IF lSTU ,SPOBCZ DPMMFDUJPO XJUI four unisex models of connected timepieces, will be unveiled on January 26 next year, and will go on sale BU ,SPOBCZ DPN BOE BU TFMFDUFE TUPSFT UISPVHIPVU &VSPQF JO UIF lSTU IBMG PG CFHJOOJOH XJUI 4XFEFO /PSXBZ %FONBSL 'JOMBOE (FSNBOZ 'SBODF 4QBJO BOE UIF 6, 5IF lSTU JNBHF PG UIF DPOnected watch gives little away beyond a hint of a stylish analogue dial and precision-engineered crown. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have created a timepiece that IPOPVST PVS MPWF GPS DMBTTJD XBUDIFT v TBZT "OJNB DP GPVOEFS 4BSBOEJT Kalogeropulos. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A simply beautiful timepiece on the outside, with highquality materials, a classic dial and hands. On the inside, however, nothing is typical about it. We have developed a new and unique movement that, coupled with the app, can be tailored to individual needs,â&#x20AC;? he adds.

LUXURY

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

THE HEARST PICK

WATCHES TO WATCH

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2016 / WATCHPRO

63

HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR WATCHES TO WATCH OF THE YEAR

ANNE KLEIN WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S QUARTZ METAL & LEATHER DRESS WATCH %JTUSJCVUPS 5-,& IBT JOUSPEVDFE B OVNCFS of fashion watch brands to the UK, none with more success than Anne Klein, whose watches match the New York fashion designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ambition to make classics fashionable. You can see the sensibility in this Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Quartz Metal and Leather Dress Watch, which is featured in the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advertising this year. The shapely 28mm case frames a light champagne dial with gold hands and markers in a timeless combination that would have graced a red carpet FWFOU GSPN UIF T UP UIF QSFTFOU day. It is selling for around ÂŁ65 in the UK, and is offered with a choice of brown or white leather straps. Ann Klein is a department store fashion brand, BOE JUT XBUDIFT lU FBTJMZ JOUP UIF TBNF outlets, but it is also the sort of affordable GBTIJPO lY UIBU JOEJFT XJMM BQQSFDJBUF

NITE WATCHES MARQUESS ULTRA SLIM

WATCHES TO WATCH

Nite Watches, a British watch company specialising in highly illuminated timepieces, has unveiled its slimmest timepiece to date. The company claims the latest addition to its Marquess collection is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slimmest watches containing 5SJUJVN JMMVNJOBUJPO )PVTFE XJUIJO UIF NN EFFQ BOE NN XJEF TUBJOMFTT TUFFM DBTF JT B 4XJTT NBEF RVBSU[ NPWFNFOU GSPN 3POEB USJQMF "3 DPBUFE TBQQIJSF DSZTUBM BOE 4VQFS CSJHIU 5 4XJTT NBEF 5SJUJVN JMMVNJOBUJPO 5IF .BSRVFTT TFSJFT JT BWBJMBCMF JO lWF EJGGFSFOU DPMPVS lOJTIFT BOE JT FYDMVTJWFMZ BWBJMable from the Nite Watches website priced at ÂŁ325. Marketing NBOBHFS PG /JUF 8BUDIFT (BWJO .PVOUGPSE FYQMBJOFE h5IF new Marquess series has bought an added level of elegance and sophistication to the collection which our owners have been keen for us to introduce. To be able to accommodate this technology within a case as slim as this was a real challenge but it is one we are glad to have tackled and we are extremely proud of the outcome.â&#x20AC;?

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WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016 / watchpro.com

2016

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

HARCOURT WATCHES THE ROYAL T Did you hear the one about a racing driver, a stockbroker and a sports agent who wanted to launch a watch brand? Well, it actually happened earlier this year when a boozy evening among friends led to the creation of Harcourt London, a watch company from people who know nothing about watches. The Royal T, named after the family home of one of the founders, is our favourite model of a collection that focuses on clean and simple watch faces in thin cases with the Harcourt name etched into the side. The gold hands, and hour markers give the black on black design an opulent feel.

The golden H at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock could become a design touch that the brand repeats across future collections. Most Harcourt watches retail for around ÂŁ130 from its own website.

They are described as unisex and come in NN BOE NN WFSTJPOT 5IFSF BSF OP current plans to move into wholesale, but that could change as demand increases.

KLOKERS TIME TRAVELLER Klokers, a French start-up business, is looking for partners in the UK for its innovative push button time travel watches. The comQBOZ JT CBTFE JO "OOFDZ -F 7JFVY POMZ NJMFT 4PVUI PG (FOFWB BOE BJNT UP TIBLF VQ UIF 4XJTT XBUDINBLJOH JOEVTUSZ XJUI JUT unique approach to world timer watches. Like many brands today, Klokers started life on crowdfunding site Kickstarter in 2015, raising Ă&#x152; FOPVHI UP QVU UXP NPEFMT JOUP QSPEVDUJPO UIF ,MPL 1 and the Klok 2. The Klok 2 is designed to display the time in any time zone around the world. The watch is designed into two halves, with the top half showing a large arc of retrograde minutes and seconds sweeping across the face. The hour is displayed in a circular aperture in the bottom half of the dial next UP B XJOEPX TIPXJOH DJUies around the world; one for FBDI UJNF [POF " QVTIFS BU oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock advances the city and IPVS POF BU B UJNF 5IF NN XBUDI XIJDI TFMMT JO &VSPQF GPS Ă&#x152; b VTFT B 4XJTT .BEF 4PQSPE 401 NFDIBUSPOJD NPWFNFOU XJUI EJTQMBZT ESJWFO CZ IJHI FGlDJFODZ MPX power consumption.

NEW WATCHES / THE SELECTION

BREITLING EMERGENCY NIGHT MISSION The Breitling Emergency has been given a colourful update with three new editions coming to the UK that combine a black titanium case with orange or yellow accents, or a

NITE WATCHES ALPHA-209 T100

blue mother of-pearl dial. The wristwatch is billed as high-tech survival instrument thanks

Nite Watches, a 12-year-old independent

to its built-in dual frequency personal locator beacon. On the first special version of this

British watch brand based in Dorset, has

Emergency Night Mission, the orange hands and hour-markers as well as the rubber strap

announced the launch of Alpha, a collection

in the same vivid colour create a powerful contrast with the black case and dial. This

of quartz-powered watches. Nite Watches

distinctive opposition is picked up on the second model, available in black and yellow.

created its first collection in 2004 with

Meanwhile, the third edition hits a more refined note with its shimmering midnight blue

a mission to build precision-engineered

mother-of-pearl dial echoed by a matching rubber strap.

watches in the UK. Its main technical USP

RRP: £15,340

is the use of GTLS (Gaseous Tritium Light

www.breitling.com

Source) illumination, a self-powered 24 hour

in watches. The new 42mm stainless steel

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH BOC II

Alpha series houses a Swiss quartz Ronda

Blancpain has created a limited edition Ocean

movement providing 10 year battery life. It

Commitment II Flyback Chronograph that

uses the latest T100 rated Tritium illumination

will raise money to support scientific marine

for legibility in the dark. The collection

expeditions. The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe

has a uni-directional ceramic bezel insert,

Flyback Chronograph Blancpain Ocean

sapphire crystal with a triple anti-reflective

Commitment II (BOC II) comes for the first

coating, screw-down crown and a 300m water

time in an all-blue ceramic case. Only 250

resistance rating.

numbered pieces have been released and, for

RRP: £400

every one sold, Blancpain will donate €1000

www.nitewatches.com

to support scientific expeditions until its

illumination technology which is considered the most reliable form of illumination utilised

€250,000 target is reached. The new Flyback Chronograph BOC II is equipped with an F385 caliber whose mechanism beats at 36,000 vibrations an hour (5 Hz). The F385 has a variable-inertia balance with gold screws for increased robustness and more precise adjustment than the usual index device. The Flyback Chronograph BOC II incorporates all the technical

STORM TIME CHAIN

characteristics

British watch and jewellery brand Storm is introducing its eight SKU Time Chain range of

of a mechanical

affordable unisex timepieces this month. The Time Chain name and design was given to the

diving watch. In

collection by Storm co-founder Steve Sun, who recalls a watch he inherited from his family

particular, it is

before emigrating to the UK. “He had always dreamt of moving to London and when the time

water-resistant

finally came for him to spread his wings, his father wished him luck and presented him with a

to 300 m and its

gift. Steve inherited a watch which had been passed down through the generations which he

unidirectional

fondly named ‘Time Chain’ as it was a piece of history which had travelled through the family

bezel features

over a number of years. It was from this watch that the ‘Time Chain’ collection was born,”

gray inserts and

Storm explains. Time Chain adopts a classic, modern design in a watch that is so affordable

hour-markers in

customers can purchase more than one so that they can match their outfits and moods to

Liquidmetal.

their watches.

RRP: POA

66

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2016/ watchpro.com

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