ELYSIAN Winter 2017-18 by readelysian

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Contents FEATURED 14 New Orleans Now 18 Queens of Cuisine 24 New Orleansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Nopsi Hotel ENTERTAINING 28 Set for the Holidays 32 Tidbits & Cocktails HOME 34 Born of the Wilderness FASHION 38 The View from London 44 The Faithful Fashionista WOMEN OF DISTINCTION 52 Danielle Rollins 58 Karen Abbott 64 Phyllis Newhouse 70 Phyllis DeLapp

On the cover:

Graceful living. Inspiring women.

HEALTH 77 Optimal Self 78 Finding Your Fit 80 REST BEAUTY 83 In the Name of Beauty 87 Keep an Eye on Aging FOOD 88 Salt of the Earth ART 92 Debra Baxter 100 Dallas Cowboys Art Collection

PHILANTHROPY 104 The Face of Human Trafficking 108 Set Them Free TRAVEL 110 All Aboard

EQUESTRIAN 114 Fernanda Kellogg 118 The Farm House

Destynee Galloway of Hendersonville, NC was photographed by Josh Norris. Hair and makeup by Isabelle Schreier.

St. Pankraz church nestled in the Zillertal Valley of Austria in the heart of Winter.

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ELYSIAN ȉȬɣȲȦʰɔˑȲ ਱ Ȳɫ˘ीʦɔȉɷ ਱ ाɔॼ֤ɫɔॼˢɏȲɷा adjective. beautiful or creative; divinely inspired; peaceful and perfect.

pu blisher

Karen Floyd editor- in- chief

Meredith Bogardus managing editor

Luke Connell editorial director

Rita Allison advertising director

Mark West creative director

For everything there is a season. ELYSIAN

Carmen Thomas director of photography

Josh Norris digital director

Michael Uhrinek

Inspiring women. Our Women of Distinction have continued to inspire with stories of overcoming, perseverance, and conviction. In this edition, a common theme evolved. Each featured woman did not allow fear to dictate or direct actions, which ultimately led to noted success. In more basic terms, they each stepped outside of their comfort zone and found inner motivation to do the undoable or unexpected. Whether through creativity, faith, or gratitude, each realized a profound selfawareness by pushing themselves further than they expected possible.

Linda Mallis social media director

Taylor Brown social media assistant

Veronica Grace Davis marketing director

Dell Pulliam media director

Rob Springer national accou nts director

Ashley Alderman assistant art director

Karen Floyd | Publisher karen@thepalladiangroup.com

Tammy Owens

To formalize their accomplishments, these unique women recently met in New York City where the ELYSIAN Circle was launched. As the Circle grows, the ELYSIAN legacy will expand by nominating and cultivating future Women of Distinction and identifying Featured and Focused women with future stories to share.

Graceful living. Elegant, refined, stylish, and beautiful are the cornerstones of graceful living. With this winter edition, ELYSIAN has a seasonal focus on the arts, entertaining, equestrian, fashion, food, health, and travel. The publication’s quest for mind, body, and spirit eclectic content spans the globe. From New Orleans, to Austria, India to California, and New York to London, our writers strive to ignite our readers’ curiosity. Graceful living also embodies the idea of giving. Our philanthropic focus explores the complexity of human trafficking world-wide. Exposing the face of human trafficking is daunting and particularly complicated as the enslaved are set free.

colu mnists

Katherine Birchenough, MD Angie Comer Amy Zimmer senior w riters

Michelle Breeze Angela Carlton Rebecca Carr Larry Chesney Abby Deering Karen Smith contribu ting w riters

Faith Hope Consolo Fern Mallis copy editors

Diane High Hadley Inabinet Phil Randall Jenna Realmuto st yle director

Angie Woodard produ ction st ylist

Tiffany Brown

Finally, as we complete our second year, we say good bye to our founding editor-in-chief, Jeff Zehr and welcome home Meredith Bogardus. We thank each of you for your continued readership.

ELYSIAN family wishes you a wonderful holiday season! Until next year.

chief development officer

Meredith Bogardus | Editor-in-Chief meredith@thepalladiangroup.com

ELYSIAN Magazine (Vol. 2, No. 4) is published four times per year by Palladian Publications LLC, 113 W. Main St., Spartanburg, SC 29306. For subscription information, call 888-329-9534; visit subscriptions@elysianservice.com; mailing address: Subscription Service, Elysian Magazine PO Box 2172, Williamsport, PA 17703 All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

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[ FEATURED ] celebrate 300 years

new orleans

now I

By Angela Caraway-Carlton

A trip to “The Big Easy” is always a good idea, but in 2018, everything in New Orleans will be even bigger and better as the Southern city celebrates its 300th birthday. From three female chefs dominating the food scene, to experiencing Mardi Gras

like a local, and a buzzy new hotel steeped in history — New Orleans is a right-now destination. 14

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−mardi gras to the max ~

As if showy floats topped with costume-clad krewes slinging beads, and booming bands blasting music that’ll make your body vibrate, isn’t impressive enough — when Mardi Gras rolls down the streets of New Orleans in 2018, the epic extravaganza will be even bigger and better. Not possible? Go see for yourself. While the colorful city never needs a reason to party, 2018 marks New Orleans’ 300th birthday, and you can bet there won’t be another celebration around the country to rival Mardi Gras during a tricentennial year. Carnival will kick-off with a huge bang on King’s Day (Jan. 6) with grand fireworks illuminating the sky, and nonstop parades and parties will last until the final crescendo on Fat Tuesday (Feb. 13). “2018 will be a shining moment for New Orleans,” says Kristian Sonnier of the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau. “Several of the larger Mardi Gras krewes will incorporate a tricentennial theme into their parades with additional floats and revelry.” More than a million partygoers are expected to pack the streets, with most arriving the weekend before Fat Tuesday. “If you want to avoid the crowds, plan your trip for the two weeks before Mardi Gras Day when there are still parades, but not as many visitors,” advises Sonnier, who also recommends making hotel reservations months in advance. “My advice is to get out early, pick a spot to watch the parade, get close enough to feel the din of the marching bands, catch lots of beads, and enjoy something you’ve never eaten before.”

Left: Sunset view of the Crescent City Connection Bridge. (Credit: Zach Smith/NOCVB) Below: Mardi Gras Indian. (Credit: Pableaux Johnson/NOCVB)

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Krewe of Boo celebrates Halloween in French Quarter in New Orleans. (Credit: Richard Nowitz/ NOCVB)

(Credit: New Orleans CVB)

“ 2018 will be a shining moment for New Orleans. Several of the larger Mardi Gras krewes will incorporate a tricentennial theme into their parades [MXL EHHMXMSREP ÂSEXW ERH VIZIPV] ”

~ where & what to catch ~

~ explore like a local ~

Most of the city’s parades march through Uptown along St. Charles Avenue and Downtown along Canal Street, and some of the best views are from ticketed grandstands that put you eye-level with the floats, or viewing stands offered by hotels like the upscale Intercontinental Hotel which has a prime spot (many hotels also offer parade packages).

To really immerse yourself in the true beauty of New Orleans, spend a morning at picturesque City Park (which is bigger than New York’s Central Park) where you’ll grab a café au lait and powdery beignets at Morning Call, then wander over bridges and under canopies of moss-draped oak trees, venturing on through the free sculpture garden or botanical gardens. neworleanscitypark.com

For a truly unique experience, snag passes to iconic Gallier Hall where city officials toast with the kings and queens of Mardi Gras, or locals-inthe-know flock to the viewing stands at Superior Grill on St. Charles for margaritas and a show. There are 34 carnival parades, and depending how long you’re in town, you could hit a different grandstand zone each day. “For a more local crowd and space to stretch out, I would choose St. Charles Avenue — the median is one of the best spots to catch the city’s biggest parades,” says Sonnier of the family-friendly area. While beads and doubloons (coins) are staple throws, certain krewes offer more covetable catches. “Each krewe tries to do something special,” says Sonny Borey, captain of the Krewe of Orpheus, which prides itself as one of the prettiest parades of Carnival and throws ornate masks. “Krewe of Muses throws ladies shoes, if you’re lucky enough to catch one, and Zulu tosses beautiful hand-painted coconuts.” Borey’s best advice for a prime catch? “Make eye contact with krewe members.”

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Hop on the clanking St. Charles Streetcar for an authentic ride to the city’s residential gem known as the Garden District that’s dotted with charming antebellum homes and well-manicured gardens. Book a walking tour with Tour New Orleans whose knowledgeable guides will point out the homes of celebs like John Goodman, Sandra Bullock, and writer Anne Rice, along with offering an interesting history lesson on the surrounding architecture and the city’s fascinating burial practices (like how they fit more than 30 family members inside one tomb). tourneworleans.com From there, move on to trendy Magazine Street for six miles of locally owned boutiques, antique shops, and art galleries. (It’s also a major parade route.) magazinestreet.com Arnaud’s French 75 Bar

Views from Hot Tin Rooftop Bar (Credit: Christian Horan)

Drink Lab owners Daniel Victory & Camille Whitworth show guests how to mix New Orleans’ iconic cocktails.

Arnaud’s French 75 Bar

Musicians on Rue Ste. Anne. (Credit: Chris Granger)

~ drink up ~

~ eat this ~

Drinking is an art in New Orleans, and at French 75 (inside iconic Arnaud’s restaurant in the French Quarter), tux-clad servers will present you with some of the best drinks in the city in a Mad Men-era setting. Order a sparkling French 75 and ask for a tour of the little-known Germaine Wells Mardi Gras Museum tucked away on the second floor. With cocktail in hand, peep at a collection of ornate gowns and costumes worn by Germaine Wells, who ruled over 22 Carnival balls. arnaudsrestaurant.com

In NOLA, you never miss a meal — and you won’t want to miss a chance to dine at Chef Emeril Lagasse’s newest restaurant, MERIL, his fourth eatery in the city. Named after his youngest daughter, the high-energy restaurant is a departure from Creole cooking and showcases some of Lagasse’s favorite dishes. Expect small plates featuring everything from candied pork ribs to Spanish-inspired croquettes and Mexican-style street corn. emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

In the Garden District, elevate your cocktail game at Hot Tin Rooftop Bar at the chic Pontchartrain Hotel, where you’ll sip the sweet-and-spicy “Skyliner” while soaking up their striking 270-degree views of downtown and the Mississippi River. hottinbar.com

For inventive regional cuisine, belly up to the second oldest bar in New Orleans at Toups South run by Bravo’s Top Chef alum Isaac Toups. You’ll indulge in the best sourdough biscuit of your life (accompanied by rich crab fat butter) and dishes like goat tamales, braised local rabbit and Heritage pork boudin. The restaurant is attached to the Southern Food & Beverage Museum which is worth a quick gander and even offers cooking classes on certain days. toupssouth.com

For a totally unique experience, have a buzzy good time learning about the history of New Orleans’ classic cocktails at DrinkLab. Craft cocktail pioneer Daniel Bywater Cocktail at Arnaud’s Victory will school you on how to mix and muddle the Sazerac, which was created in New Orleans, along with the original Hurricane, which looks and tastes much different than what you’ll see sloshing around in the French Quarter. drinklabnola.com

If you want to escape the typical Southern fare, try the weekend dim sum brunch at trendy Southeast Asia-inspired Maypop, where you’ll nosh on creative bites like octopus shumai, spicy lamb dumplings, and steaming head cheese and blue crab soup dumplings. maypoprestaurant.com

From street performers to impromptu concerts popping up around the French Quarter, it’s not hard to find soulful music — but some of the best music in town can be found along the three blocks of Frenchmen Street, where you can pop into different venues depending on the sound that strikes you. Serious music lovers will want to reserve a spot at storied Preservation Hall which has been around since the ’60s. This is a real-deal experience — think no AC and tight quarters — but the 45-minutes of traditional New Orleans music and entrancing artists full of character are worth it. preservationhall.com

~ music that moves you ~

For more information on Mardi Gras, go to mardigrasneworleans.com and mardigrasparadetickets.com.

“Krewe of Muses throws ladies shoes, if you’re lucky enough to catch one, and Zulu tosses beautiful hand-painted coconuts.”

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“It felt like second nature being able to cook and adapt to the cuisine here. I could identify with the flavors, which are like the heavy spices of the Caribbean.”

Chef Nina Compton,

owner of Compère Lapin

(Photos courtesy of Nina Compton)

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fQueens Ccuisine [ FOOD ] master chefs

Three female chefs are showing New Orleans diners’ that a woman’s place is running the kitchen. With James Beard Award nominations, big-time television shows, and some of the best food in the city, you’ll want to make reservations at these girl-powered restaurants now.

nina compton Chef/Owner, Compère Lapin

Nina Compton’s love affair with New Orleans began while she was there shooting Season 11 of Bravo’s “Top Chef,” where she easily charmed audiences across the country and placed runner-up on the show. The chef was already basking in success at the helm of Scott Conant’s Italian restaurant Scarpetta in Miami, but when she returned to South Florida, she couldn’t stop thinking about NOLA. “I wanted to get back there. The cooking and the music just pulls you in. I especially loved the architecture which reminded me of home,” recalls Compton who’s a native of St. Lucia.

finalist for “Best Chef South” and was also one of Food & Wine’s “Best New Chefs in America.” She’s captivated diners with her effortless way of blending Caribbean, French, and Italian cuisine, while still creating food that tastes like homegrown Louisiana. “It felt like second nature being able to cook and adapt to the cuisine here. I could identify with the flavors, which are like the heavy spices of the Caribbean,” she explains. Depending on what you order, a meal for two can easily look like an international meeting of the mouths: supple homemade Scialatielli pasta dotted with clams and shrimp, a pot of black-eyed When the opportunity presented itself to open a new peas mixed with bacon and topped with crispy restaurant at the Old No. 77 Hotel in the Warehouse shallots, and Compton’s signature curried goat with The blistering Hot Fire Chicken District, Compton and her husband, Larry Miller, melt-in-your-mouth sweet potato gnocchi. “When jumped at the chance. But being accepted as a chef in a place deep-rooted we first opened, I would order one goat. Now, we get up to six if we’re busy. in Creole cuisine and Southern traditions worried Compton. Turns out, she The goat is number one every day,” explains Compton of the comforting had nothing to fret — the city’s finest chefs couldn’t wait to extend their dish that hails from her homeland. Southern hospitality. “It was actually amazing. John Besh, Donald Link, and all these big male chefs welcomed me with open arms. We became fast Even with all her success and a consistently packed house, Compton won’t friends,” says Compton, who also believes that female chefs are on even rest. “With 1,500 restaurants in New Orleans, you can’t relax. Every day you playing fields in New Orleans. “It’s not a boy’s club, it’s an everybody’s club.” must grind and train. If you’re not hitting the mark every single time, you’re losing a customer.” Since opening Compère Lapin (named for a folk tale about a mischievous rabbit that Compton read about during her childhood) in 2015, the restaurant has received rave reviews, and this year, Compton was a James Beard Award

Compère Lapin, 535 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans; 504.599.2119; comperelapin.com

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;One of the cool things we did as a family on the weekends is load up the car to discover and try new restaurants, explore plantation homes, & just become submersed in our environmentâ&#x20AC;?

Samantha & Cody Carroll work as a dynamic team. (Photos courtesy of Samantha Carroll)

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[ FOOD ] master chefs

samantha carroll Chef/Owner, Sac-a-Lait

If you didn’t know what Samantha Carroll looked like, you might mistake the fresh-faced chef and coowner of New Orleans’ popular Sac-a-Lait restaurant as your server. It’s not unusual to see the 27-year-old brunette dropping off food at tables, explaining the intricate details of each dish with a sweet Southern twang. “I like to be the voice of the kitchen and to really meet my customers,” says Carroll when she stops by our table. Soon, Food Network fans will certainly recognize Carroll. She and her husband, Cody, recently landed their own show “Cajun Aces,” which will premiere on the network later this year. “This is something we didn’t seek out. It came to us,” Carroll says about the show which follows them from their bustling restaurant kitchens to spots around Louisiana. “Now that we’re in it, it’s a pretty crazy experience. I hope everyone will love it.” The Gonzales, Louisiana native has never let age define her success. She opened her first restaurant, Hot Tails, near Baton Rouge at just 19 years old with Cody, whom she met at culinary school — and after the restaurant quickly gained recognition and numerous accolades, the power couple decided to break into the New Orleans food scene. They opened Sac-a-Lait in the trendy Warehouse District in 2015, focusing on what they know best: fishing, farming, and hunting. Carroll was raised in what’s considered the “Jambalaya Capital of the World” with parents who loved to cook, and the smell of roux for gumbo regularly fanned through her home. “One of the cool things we did as a family on the weekends is load up the car to discover and try new restaurants, explore plantation homes, and just become

submersed in our environment,” Carroll says of her food-focused upbringing. Her husband grew up on a farm, and their Sac-a-Lait menu reflects real-deal Louisiana cuisine like pig ears, frog leg and alligator sausage gumbo, spicy crawfish pie, and deviled crab, but with a sophisticated touch. “A lot of people think we’re cooking crazy food to get attention, but this is what my husband ate as a poor farmer. They had to sell the major animal parts, so they were left with the ears and the tail,” she says, adding, “I think my strength is the finesse of modernizing these foods and bringing them into today’s world.” Even with a two-year-old daughter and two restaurants in different cities (the duo drives back and forth between their restaurants each week), Carroll shows no signs of stopping. In addition to their new Food Network show, the couple is working on a cookbook, and Carroll is always looking to inspire other young chefs. “Even at this age, we have people working under us, and I feel like we’re raising the next generation of chefs, so we can preserve Louisiana cuisine for what it is.” Sac-a-Lait, 1051 Annunciation St., New Orleans; 504.324.3658; sac-a-laitrestaurant.com

Center: Part of the Farm menu, Hen of the Woods features a medley of roasted mushrooms 'JQT\ 1 7 +WJXM KWTR YMJ LFWIJS 9MJ XRTPNSL 5TNXXTS +ZRJ TS YMJ ƴXM RJSZ XYFWX XRTPJI X\TWIƴXM peach & serrano, créme fraiche with garlic rye bread. The dazzling bar is built with reclaimed materials and serves homegrown spirits.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Every so often, I like to throw big biscuit parties at my house with different stations and have a mountain of Popeyes in my kitchen. There are never enough leftovers!â&#x20AC;?

Chef Kelly Fields is the queen of pastry in New Orleans.

(Credit: Gabrielle Geiselman)

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[ FOOD ] master chefs

Kelly Fields Chef/Partner, Willa Jean

After years of fashioning over-the-top, decadent desserts for posh restaurants, Kelly Fields’ approach to food these days can be summed up with a chocolate chip cookie: simple, yet highly complex. When Hurricane Katrina devastated New Orleans in 2005, the pastry chef left John Besh’s lauded Restaurant August to travel the world, and during that time, she tasted what she describes as a “lifechanging” cookie at Craftsman & Wolves in San Francisco. “That cookie is my muse. It reminded me how good simple can be,” says Fields, who also quickly found out that people have very strong opinions about chocolate chip cookies — from the amount of chocolate to softness and crispiness. “I made cookies at least once a day, every day, for two and a half years before I was like, ’This is the perfect chocolate chip cookie.’” Fields’ cookie, created with five varieties of chocolate, sprinkled with sea salt and served with a beater of cookie dough and milk, is just one of many reasons why Willa Jean, the Besh Restaurant Group bakery where she now serves as chef/partner, is always packed. Locals and tourists alike line up to devour her Southern-inspired goodies such as griddled banana bread, moist cornbread, and hearty shrimp and grits reminiscent of étouffée. “This is what I would feed you at my house,” the 39-year-old says, adding that she may have a slight obsession with biscuits — her breakfast menu features five different types stuffed with everything from crispy fried chicken to boudin. “Every so often, I like to throw big biscuit parties at my house with different stations and have a mountain of Popeyes in my kitchen. There are never enough leftovers!”

The Charleston, South Carolina native admits that she inherited her baking skills from her mother, but it was her grandmother, Willa Jean, who made her promise to enroll in culinary school. “Despite being a woman in the South, she taught me to put myself out there and never apologize for anything,” Fields says of her sassy grandmother who ironically was a horrible cook that made Melba toast hors d’oeuvres and walked around with a fake martini in hand. If Willa Jean were alive today, Fields says she’d be angry that the bakery was named after her, but it’s safe to say that she would certainly be proud of her granddaughter, who was recently a James Beard Award nominee finalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Taking on the spirit of her cheerleading grandmother, Fields recently started “Yes Ma’am,” a foundation to inspire and mentor the next generation of women chefs. “As a woman in the kitchen, I get called ma’am, not chef, and it’s driven me crazy,” says Fields who immediately admits that top jobs for female chefs are now becoming readily available. “It finally feels like we can talk about women and male chefs in the same breath without pronouns.” Willa Jean, 611 O’Keefe Ave., New Orleans; 504.509.7334; willajean.com

Center: Fields’ chocolate chip cookies served with Tahitian vanilla milk & cookie dough (Credit: Rush Jagoebottom) Below L-R: Delicious pastry display at Willa Jean (Credit: Rush Jagoe) Favorites include the hearty Artichoke Cheese Business (Credit: Randy Schmidt) The sleek bar at Willa Jean (Credit: Stephen Young)

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[ FEATURED ] celebrate new orleans

Power Player Quick history lesson: For eight decades, the building served as headquarters for the New Orleans Public Service Inc., the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s former power and transportation operator, where customers would pay their electric and gas bills. After being shuttered for almost 40 years, the nine-story building powered back on this summer as a luxury hotel â&#x20AC;&#x201D; showcasing the name NOPSI to honor its storied past. Ironically, the new hot-spot couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ask for better advertising; thousands of manhole covers on the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sidewalks still bear the NOPSI name. (Play a fun game as you walk around New Orleans to see how many you can find.)

THE NEW NOPSI HOTEL OFFERS AN ELECTRIC SPACE TO RECHARGE IN NEW ORLEANS By Angela Caraway-Carlton While visiting party-centric New Orleans, where you lay your head may not always be a top priority, but the buzzy new NOPSI Hotel will make you rethink where you spend the night. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the chance to sleep in a piece of The Crescent Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history, while enjoying modern-day indulgences. 24

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While the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jazz Age-past still shines with original gleaming terrazzo stone floors, ornate sconces and even a transaction table still on display, the grand dameâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-energy lobby now greets guests with dramatic vaulted ceilings, cascading brass chandeliers, and is bordered by a gin-focused bar playfully named Under Current on one side, and signature restaurant, Public Service, on the other. At all times of the day, a constant flow of hotel guests, visitors and locals pop-in for Prohibitionstyle cocktails at the wooden bar, while a jazz singer belts out tunes, or to feast on Gulf Coast seafood, like fresh oysters or crab gnocchi.

ride to must-see sights like the French Quarter, Superdome, Garden District, or City Park. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re done exploring, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to retreat to the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rooftop, Above the Grid, to cool off in the sparkling pool and simply soak up the expansive city skyline views. At sunset, sip a cocktail as you watch the surrounding buildings take on the orange and yellow hues of the golden hour; and at night, the rooftop transforms into an animated social scene, with music pumping and glowing balls floating in the pool that illuminate the night. Sleep may not be a priority in NOLA, but with 217-spacious rooms fitted with local artwork, and plush beds and bathrooms that boast the largest showers in the city, the rooms are a welcome oasis after a raucous night out. If you want to elevate your stay, reserve one of the four spa suites with generous terraces that offer those stunning city views and book an in-room massage. Sleeping, or even resting, while in New Orleans â&#x20AC;&#x201D; does that ever happen? Someone should rewrite history, and it might as well be you. NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., New Orleans; 844.439.1463; nopsihotel.com

NOPSI Hotel, New Orleans features a shimmering rooftop pool and bar

NOPSI has bragging rights to one of the best locations in the bustling Central Business District, offering an easy walk or entertaining cable car

called Above the Grid. Inset: NOPSI Hotel lobby with faithfully renovated vaulted ceilings, graceful arches, ornamental columns, brass grills and stone terrazzo Ćľ TTWNSL (WJINY 2TIZX 5MTYTLWFUM^

What you seek is seeking you

Charlotte Lucas of Charlotte Lucas Interior Design

Myers Park Shopping Center 1025-B Providence Road. Charlotte, NC 28207 -

704-332-1717 - www.charlotteruggallery.com

Trades Considered, Cleaning. Restoration and Appraisal Services Available ELYSIAN

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Something sweet for your busy bee.

2131 Woodruff Rd Suite 1900 Greenville, SC 29607

(864) 987-7050 www.thelittlebeehivesc.com

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[ ENTERTAINING ] graceful living

Set for the Holidays

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(Credit: Josh Norris)

Elegant & striking settings that enhance any occasion

“Happy Holidays” The words fly through the air. Thanksgiving, Christmas, the New Year… the holidays are almost here. Homes are filled with clamorous family celebrations, visiting friends, the fragrance of fresh greens, and the season’s aromas. Long meals are shared, favorite foods, and noisy good times. Suddenly, it’s over. The greens are wilted, and the Christmas decorations look a little tired. However, there’s one more night to celebrate. Clear away Christmas, and toss the greens; get ready for the New Year! New Year’s Eve is best spent with old friends. An elegant dinner, good conversation, good food, good wine and a luscious dessert. Planning the menu and selecting wine ahead of time will decrease stress around the holidays. The pictures include two tables that have been arranged using classic china and silver. On each table, there is a mix of crystal patterns, using a different pattern for each beverage. The table shown on page 30 is set with white cloth, dropping about 15-18 inches from the table top, and folded white napkins. Snow white (Haviland) Limoges China heavily bordered in gold sits on chargers that were specially made for this occasion. It is paired with Gorham’s classic pattern, Strasbourg; the scrollwork on the silver complements the china’s gold border. Beautiful crystal completes the settings. As for the center, larger versions of the chargers hold gold-bordered salt and pepper shakers and condiment dishes. Tall, white marble and a gilded candelabra hold glowing white candles. Although it is not necessary to follow a “theme,” the clocks on the table and sideboard remind the guest that the minutes of the old year are ticking away. So fill the champagne glasses, and get ready to welcome in the New Year.

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(Credit: Josh Norris)

The table shown on page 28 has a vintage look. This table setting uses silver placemats and platinum-rimmed Rosenthal China circa the 1960s on a highly polished table. A very simple silver pattern by Gorham, tucked rolled napkins in silver napkin rings, and vintage stemware help complete the setting. As for glassware, the table includes vintage etched crystal water goblets, white and red wine glasses, coupe-style champagne glasses, and small uniquely shaped glasses for after-dinner sherry. There was a time when Emily Post was the last word on the correct way to do all things. Today, there are multiple experts and just as many ideas on what is â&#x20AC;&#x153;correctâ&#x20AC;? regarding table settings, but here are a few helpful reminders. Bread and butter plates are always placed to the left of the dinner plate above the forks. Furthermore, individual butter spreaders are placed on the plates diagonally. Before guests are seated, butter should be put on the plates and water poured. The rule for glassware is to place the glasses on the table in the order they will be used. Glasses are placed to the right of the plate, above the knife starting with the water glass. If space is limited, try a triangular placement or diamond shape. Like glassware, silverware is laid on the table in the order it will be used. For example, forks are placed to the left of the plate, the salad fork on the outside if salad is the first course served. Knives and spoons are placed to the right, with the knife next to the plate, blade facing the plate. The dessert fork may be placed to the left of the plate on the inside closest to the plate or, if you choose, dessert spoons (if used) and forks may be placed above the dinner plate. The fork is always closest to the plate, handle pointed toward the left, and the spoon is placed above the fork, handle pointed to the right (this placement the European style). When planning the perfect party, plan ahead and make lists, so nothing will be forgotten. Relax and enjoy the celebration with your guests!

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[ ENTERTAINING ] graceful living

Celebrate with

TIDBITS & COCKTAILS Chef Stathakis’ favorite holiday drinks & appetizers

Chef Pano Stathakis once again lent ELYSIAN his expertise, sharing four recipes perfect for entertaining during the holiday season. “Food and family are equally shared during the holidays,” says Stathakis. “Spending time in the kitchen to prepare a delicious meal for them is a wonderful gift to give.”

“Food and family are equally shared during the holidays. Spending time in the kitchen to prepare a delicious meal for them is a wonderful gift to give.” Chef Pano Stathakis

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While most of us can’t relate to his level of culinary prowess, we can relate to entertaining our friends and families for the holidays — and the stress may come along with it. The most important things about cooking for the holidays, Chef Stathakis says, is making sure that you don’t overbook yourself or overestimate your abilities. “Feel comfortable with what you’re making. Don’t get too wrapped up in wanting to make it all yourself,” he says. After all, you want to be able to enjoy the party and your family as well. Holiday meals should begin with that element of “comfort food,” but the cooks in the kitchen should focus on adding their own spin, being creative and crafting something fit for a special occasion. And, of course, you should consider your own family and friends’ tastes and dietary restrictions. Having a signature cocktail at your holiday party is a great way to show off your flare and “give the guests something to remember,” says Stathakis. Champagne is traditionally served at holiday parties, but adding a cordial can bring forth a whole new color and flavor to the tradition. For the appetizers, it’s best to go with something universal — something that will please vegetarians, carnivores and the pickiest of eaters. His recipe for stuffed mushrooms (with two different fillings) are just as good served lukewarm, so they are a great option for setting out for guests to pick as they please. The holidays are a time to rejoice, a time to celebrate. At holiday meals, Chef Stathakis rightly says, “It’s a time to say, ’What the hell, let’s treat ourselves,’ before we get back to a strict diet for the New Year.”

•

Oysters Rockefeller

•

Ingredients: 6 fresh oysters 3 tablespoons butter 3 cups finely-minced fresh spinach leaves ½ cup finely-minced onion ¼ cup finely-minced parsley 1 tablespoon homemade breadcrumbs ¼ cup bacon bits 1 cup alfredo sauce ½ teaspoon salt Rock salt Lemon wedges for garnish

•

The Classic Royal Cocktail

•

Ingredients: 5 ounces chilled Veuve Clicquot Champagne, Brut Yellow Label 375 ml, NV ¼ ounce Chambord Directions: Pour 5 ounces of chilled Champagne in to a fluted champagne glass Top off ¼ ounce of Chambord into the glass Garnish is optional – one fresh raspberry.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin • topped with • Jamaican Relish

Directions: Using an oyster knife, pry open the oyster shells, then remove the oysters. Discard the top shells; scrub and dry the bottom shells. Drain oysters, reserving the oyster liquor. In a large saucepan, melt the butter; add spinach, onion, parsley, bread crumbs, bacon bits, and salt. Cook and stir constantly for 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Press the spinach mixture through a sieve or food mill; let cool. Mixture may be made ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to use.

Ingredient: 2 ½ pound pork tenderloin, cleaned and trimmed 2 ounces olive oil 1 ounce Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon Lawry’s seasoning salt 3 ounces Jamaican Relishes from Monarch

Preheat oven broiler. Line an ovenproof plate or platter with a layer of rock salt about 1 inch deep (moisten the salt very slightly). Set oysters in the rock salt, making sure they are level. Place a little of the reserved oyster liquor on each oyster. Spoon equal amounts of the prepared spinach mixture over each oyster and spread to the rim of the shell, then top off with alfredo sauce. Bake approximately 8 to 10 minutes or until the topping is bubbling. Watch carefully. Garnish the plates or platter with the parsley sprigs and lemon wedges. Serve immediately.

Beer Battered Fried Oyster • topped with Sriracha • Cocktail Sauce SRIRACHA COCKTAIL SAUCE

Ingredients: 2 cups tomato ketchup 1 tablespoon horseradish 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce Salt and pepper to taste

Fried Beer Battered Mushroom • Stuffed with Fresh Herbs • Goat Cheese and Cream Cheese — or — Fried Beer Battered Mushroom Stuffed with Pimento Cheese, Alfredo Sauce and Bacon Bits Beer batter ingredients: 8 ounces all-purpose flour 4 teaspoons Lawry’s seasoning salt 4 teaspoons granulated garlic 1 teaspoon of baking powder 10 ounces of Yuengling beer 2 large eggs ¼ cup buttermilk Combine all dry ingredients into a bowl. Combine all wet ingredients into a mixing bowl. Mix well with wire whisk.

Directions: Preheat the grill to 350 to 400 degrees heat. Remove sliver skin from tenderloin, leaving a thin layer of fat. Brush tenderloin with oil and WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

Rub in all seasoning into the tenderloin. Grill tenderloin for about 15 to 18 minutes until meat thermometer registers 155 degrees. Remove from grill and let stand for 10 to 15 minutes to cool. Cut pork diagonally into thin slices. Arrange on a serving platter and drizzle with warm sauce.

Directions: Coat mushrooms with batter then fry in deep fryer for 4 to 6 minutes, until internal temperature is 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

Directions: Combine all ingredients into bowl and whisk until completely mixed.

Stuff 1 ounce of pimento cheese or goat cheese mixture into mushrooms.

Tastes best when well chilled. Store in refrigerator in a tightly sealed container for up to a week.

Place the fried mushrooms around platter and garnish with parmesan cheese. (Credit:Josh Norris)

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[ HOME ] rustic elegance

Born Wilderness of the

9WMRK WXSRI XMQFIV PSK KPEWW ERH WXIIP XLMW LSQI VIÃ&#x201A; IGXW XLI dynamic character of the rugged Rocky Mountain West. 34

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It’s as if it were forged from the wild country that surrounds it. From its Douglas fir posts to the native stone, to the circle-sawn white oak, to the cedar shake roof, the Old Barn Timber Frame is a natural extension of the surrounding Big Sky country. A man-made structure that blends into the surrounding panorama.

What makes the home’s appearance even more striking are the reflections of sky, forest and mountains splashed across the numerous large windows. “The wine room is another very cool feature,” Donaghey said. Quite literally, cool. Located below ground, just off the rec room, the natural temperature of the earth, usually around 55 degrees at that depth, helps to keep the cellar ideal for both white and red vintages 12 months of the year.

Located within The Club at Spanish Peaks, not far from Big Sky, Montana, and in the center of some of the finest snow skiing in North America, this very inviting home offers 4,700 square feet of livable space.

The chilly earth also holds a plentiful water table, providing the H2O necessary to feed an effective and economical geothermal heating system. Additional wells on the property provide drinking water.

“One of the unique architectural features is the master bathroom,” explained Robert Donaghey, head of business development with Teton Heritage Builders. “The bath steps down from the main floor – giving it its own private space.” On the far end of the home is another distinctive aspect – a guest room that is actually a wing unto itself. It too steps down, right into its own private corner of the house. “The guest wing even has its own private deck,” noted Donaghey. “The owners wanted something very special for their guests. It definitely separates itself.” The great room, too, is certain to impress guests. “The owners wanted lots of high timber in the room,” said Donaghey, “and their wish was fulfilled with solid beams reaching up to the vaulted ceilings.” “The home, as a whole, is actually a ’timber frame hybrid,’” Donaghey went on, “built of timber and conventional 2-by-6 framing. The Douglas fir beams have been kiln-dried to prevent any warping or twisting.”

“We also used a lot of knotty alder for trim. The tongue-in-groove GIMPMRK MW (SYKPEW Á V as well, which blends naturally with the Á V GSZIVIH PERHWGETI ¶

The stone used for the fireplace and in other masonry throughout the house is Chief Cliff, a durable quartzite that’s mined nearby. Its subtle blend of greys, umbers, tans, and splashes of gold make it the ideal backdrop for the rich tones of the fir and oak. (All photos courtesy of Teton Builders)

“We also used a lot of knotty alder for trim,” Donaghey continued. “The tongue-in-groove ceiling is Douglas fir as well, which blends naturally with the fir-covered landscape.” Along with granite countertops in the spacious kitchen, a mixture of natural stone and ceramic tiles was used in the bathrooms. The classic barn-style sliding doors were custommade by a partner company in Idaho, while the cabinetry was cut by another partner in Montana. “We really like to work with the custom shops that specialize in the high-end residential side of things,” Donaghey said.

And wildlife? “We’re in the Yellowstone range, just 90 miles from the national park,” Donaghey said, “so we have black bear, moose, elk, deer, wolves, mountain lions, wolverines … you name it, and the critters are there.” Teton Heritage Builders was founded in 1996 by Peter and Matt Lee in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Their mantra was, and still is, “to create exceptional handcrafted custom dream homes…that reflect the character of their distinctive surroundings.” Teton Heritage builds custom homes throughout the Big Sky region, including Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming. Visit them at www.tetonheritage.com.

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WINTER MAGIC View from the River Inn to Kufstein Fortress in Kufstein, Austria. © Österreich Werbung, Photographer: Robert Maybach

[ FASHION ] on the runway

Once upon a time... twice-annual Fashion Weeks in four cities across the globe — New York, London, Paris & Milan —dictated global style for the season ahead. Six months of a fashion designer’s life and work were condensed into 15 critical minutes on the runway as a dapper frenzy of retail buyers, magazine editors, and celebrity stylists hunted down the hottest new looks for their clients. And then social media – namely Instagram happened. Now, one TSWX JVSQ ER µMRÂYIRGIV¶ GER PEYRGL a new trend faster than a two-page spread in Vogue, and fashion shows are live-streamed online to almost every corner of the planet. So does that mean runway presentations are obsolete, or are they more important than ever? To make sense of the rapidly evolving global fashion scene, we turned XS *IVR 1EPPMW XLI IJÁGEGMSYW consultant who founded New York Fashion Week in 1993 and has been instrumental in fashion weeks all over the world. Stunning golden gown by designer Rocky Star. (Credit: Krish Nagari)

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THE VIEW FROM

LONDON By Fern Mallis

Do Fashion Weeks matter anymore? Are they relevant in this new media age? Do we need any more clothes? Who are all of these designers anyway? What season are we in? Why can’t I buy what’s on the runway now? These are just some of the questions that are being asked more and more often by everyone in the fashion business and beyond.

Paris has been an important center for fashion since time immemorial. It is the home of couture, and Parisian designers make full use of the skilled hand craftsmen in their ateliers who are masters at intricate tailoring, fine beading, and lavish embellishments. Milan has the money brands. It’s where the textile mills and factories are. It’s the home of Armani, Versace, Prada, and Gucci, and these companies were always the big advertisers… you’d often see all the publishers sitting in the front row.

But then again, most people in this business are always questioning what’s going on, and if there is one thing I’ve learned over the 40 years of my career — it’s that you can never make everyone happy ... so I just try do my best and do what feels right. I organized what was originally called 7th on Sixth, which morphed into General Motors Fashion Week, then Olympus Fashion Week, and for the longest tenure, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week… and now it’s just called New York Fashion Week. And YES, I can safely say… Fashion Weeks matter.

Designer Simone Rocha

“SO I’M STICKING TO

THE MANTRA THAT I’VE ALWAYS GIVEN TO EMERGING DESIGNERS THAT I MENTOR: IT’S ALL ABOUT THE CLOTHES, BUT A FABULOUS SHOW CAN’T HURT.

There are roughly 200 fashion weeks in cities all over the world … and approximately a dozen more here in the US. The fashion world clearly identifies the top four as the ones that matter and make a difference. Each of the big four global Fashion Weeks has its own distinct personality, making each city unique in the type of talent that’s presented. For many years there was a general consensus and description that defined the “Mount Rushmore” of Fashion Weeks. New York has always been known as the most commercial, featuring wearable sportswear and clothes for professional women to wear to work.

Although, clothes for “working women” have begun to change considerably over the past decade as clothes have become more casual and “athleisure” has taken over. New York is also known for supporting emerging talent, and upand-coming designers were always a highlight of the shows.

And then there’s London, which is dominated by Central Saint Martins, the fashion institute that trained John Galliano, Stella McCartney, Zac Posen, and Alexander McQueen. It’s become a think tank for edgy, provocative style and has helped London and its High Street remain a style destination for editors and buyers. This past September, after a very hectic and busy New York Fashion Week, I was extremely pleased to head to London Fashion Week for three whirlwind days, as I usually do not go to the European shows and haven’t for several years.

I took this trip at the invitation of a good friend, a designer from Mumbai, Rocky Star Last May, while in Mumbai for business, I ran into my old pal Rocky at the opening of a new restaurant. While catching up with him, he graciously asked if I’d attend his show in London and extended an invitation for me to be there.

”

A native of Mumbai, Rocky Star is known for his sexy evening clothes, which are highly embellished with beads, fringe, and other accouterments. Rocky has a huge business in India — he’s a darling of Bollywood’s red carpet — and has also designed the clothes for over 300 Bollywood movies. By showing in London, he is testing the waters for an international expansion. This was his fourth show, and he continues to generate lots of press among the fashion bloggers, influencers, and editors.

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His runway show was absolutely stunning. Dresses had an overall print based on the scarab and were very metallic with iridescent beading and embellishments — as only the Indians can do. The models had dramatic metallic make-up and sexy hair with shiny beads and other decorations sewn into loose braids. Rocky is a master of the dramatic and manages to be dazzling and yet wearable at the same time. I was so happy to be in London to support Rocky and his collection, and I also brought a special guest with me to see Rocky’s show: the true icon of the London fashion scene, the legendary designer and my good friend Zandra Rhodes. Needless to say, Rocky was thrilled to meet this pink-coiffed legend.

Designer Rocky Star (Credit: Krish Nagari)

One of the other shows I was fortunate enough to attend was Molly Goddard, one of the most talked-about London designers. In full disclosure, she is also one of my niece’s very best friends. The British Fashion Council named her the top "British Emerging Talent" in 2016, and this year, you can’t open a publication without seeing her featured. Goddard’s profile on social media recently exploded when Rihanna posted a clip of herself in a lilac Goddard dress at the London launch party for her Fenty Beauty line, which generated over 1.2 million Instagram “likes.” It’s not hard to understand why Rihanna is a fan. Goddard’s cheerful party dresses are bright, frilly, and sheer, earning their creator the nickname “The Tulle Queen.” In a few short years, Goddard has done what every young designer dreams of: she has created a signature look. The minute you see one of her dresses, you know it’s Molly Goddard. With her strong feminine aesthetic, she is taking a risk and doing what no one else is doing, especially at a time when the fashion world is dominated by “athleisure.” Her show was spirited and fun with lots of loose silhouettes, and she was clearly moving her collection forward. She had Mayor Sadiq Khan of London in her front row.

“HER COLLECTION WAS ROMANTIC, FEMININE

AND ELEGANT, LONG AND LAYERED MOSTLY IN WHITE WITH LACE AND RUFFLES HER WORK

”

WAS A FAVORITE OF THE FASHION PRESS.

The third show I attended in London was Simone Rocha. The daughter of another legendary English designer John Rocha. Her show was held at the historic Middle Temple in central London, a truly beautiful space, which was one of the ancient inns of the Court. Her collection was romantic, feminine and elegant, long and layered mostly in white with lace and ruffles, her work was a favorite of the fashion press.

Designer Molly Goddard (Credit: Indigital)

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Social media has changed absolutely everything we do in this new world, and its impact on the fashion industry has been phenomenal. Models aren’t just booked on their look or their walk anymore. It’s about how many followers they have on Instagram. They no longer need Vogue covers to make them a star; they go right to their fans and tell their story the way they want it to be told and create a dialogue with their followers and fans. A model’s repost of herself in a particular garment puts a designer’s work directly into the hands of consumers, totally superseding the fashion establishment. Sadly, attendees at fashion shows no longer look at the clothes directly — they watch the action on their phones, recording pictures and/or video, which they instantly upload to various social media outlets, letting the world know “they were there” and saw it before anyone else.

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Designer Rocky Star backstage with some of the models from his Spring/Summer 2018 show in London. (Credit: Krish Nagari )

The fashion industry/social media/consumer love triangle is still in its "Wild West" phase. Social media has given ordinary people the opportunity to speak directly to industry leaders about what they want, but the take-away message isn’t always clear. A lot of designers are still figuring out their social media strategy. They are trying to figure out if hiring an “influencer”— a job I didn’t know existed when I was starting my career — is better than taking an ad in a leading fashion magazine. And as consumers have so much instant access to all this imagery, it’s important for the fashion industry to address the question of who the fashion shows are really for. As far as I am concerned, the internet (and by that I mean an iPhone or iPad or desktop computer) can never substitute for the experience of being present at a live fashion show. Even with a live-stream, you can’t hear the swish of the garments as the models strut by or note the details in the tailoring or feel the hush fall over the room when a particularly striking design emerges. It’s like watching a television broadcast of a professional sporting event. The sound of the crowds at Madison Square Garden or any major league baseball or football stadium when the hometown team scores – and hopefully wins – is never really conveyed or felt on the screen. There will always be a mandate for live fashion shows whether they are sensational multimillion-dollar spectacles or smaller, intimate shows or casual presentations. Through all the turbulence, I am constantly reminded that fashion is an industry built on innovation. It’s in our DNA. While social media has revolutionized our world, one thing holds true: we all need to get dressed every day before we leave the house. So I’m sticking to the mantra that I’ve always given to emerging designers that I mentor: it’s all about the clothes, but a fabulous show can’t hurt.

ABOUT FERN MALLIS: From 1991 to 2001, Fern Mallis was the executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Under her leadership, the American fashion industry got “organized, centralized and moderninized,” as the first Fashion Week was established in fall of 1993 in New York’s Bryant Park. After 10 years, the event known as 7th on Sixth was sold to IMG, and Fern came with the acquisition until 2010. IMG Fashion then created, managed, or purchased Fashion Weeks in Los Angeles, Miami, Mumbai, Berlin, Mexico, Moscow, Sydney, Melbourne, Australia, Singapore, Tokyo, Dubai, and more… In 2010, Fern re-invented her career and performed in an off-Broadway play “Love, Loss, and What I Wore” by Nora and Delia Ephron, started a collection called “Fern Finds” for HSN, hosted a radio show “Fashion Insiders” on Sirius XM, and consulted for a wide variety of lifestyle companies. She also launched and continues to host “Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis,” a live interview series that takes place at New York City’s 92nd Street Y. She has interviewed designers and fashion icons such as Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, Diane Von Furstenberg, Andre Leon Talley, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Iman, Leonard Lauder, Angela and Rosita Missoni, among many others. Her first 19 interviews are featured in a book FASHION LIVES published by Rizzoli. In her consulting business, she works with Charleston Fashion Week among others, and she mentors many emerging designers. She works with start-ups, numerous companies, and organizations. Fern is on the board of directors at the FIT Foundation in New York and has been instrumental in supporting many charitable causes, including the Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS, as well as spearheading Fashion Targets Breast Cancer while at CFDA. She has also been the recipient of numerous accolades, including the Pratt Institute Lifetime Achievement Award in 2012 (presented to her by Calvin Klein) and FIT’s President’s Award for Lifetime Achievement, Business of Fashion Hall of Fame in 2014. You can follow her on Instagram at @fernmallis.

Designer Simone Rocha. Credit: Indigital

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[ FASHION ] on the runway

The Faithful

FASHIONISTA REPORTS FROM THE RUNWAY By Faith Hope Consolo

There was a reappearance of runway themes; Western wear, strong shoulders, bold, maximalist pieces, but there were trends that for sure made a daring debut.

Each season of New York Fashion Week brings new trends, new faces and a new outlook of what is to come. Spring/Summer 2018’s catwalks brought a much needed boost! New York’s designers were determined to turn up the joy for SS18 and to celebrate the brighter, finer and more diverse things in life. Designers embraced the City and created their runways in the most iconic places. Oscar de la Renta overtook Sotheby’s and used the escalators as an extended runway, how clever. Carolina Herrera staged her show in the garden at MoMA, marking the first time a full-fledged fashion show had been held there. Tory Burch’s show took place in the beautiful garden of the Cooper Hewitt museum on 92nd Street. Alexander Wang completely broke the mold by showing in Bushwick, Brooklyn, at 9:30 P.M. on Saturday on a dead end street. The street was packed, the show was standing-room only, and the celebrity crew was everywhere. Ralph Lauren’s show was held in Bedford, New York at Lauren’s personal garage alongside cars from the designer’s impressive collection of exotic automobiles, with a collection of clothes that went from runway to retail as part of the label’s ongoing “see-now, buy-now” strategy. 44

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— END OF THE — TRADITIONAL RUNWAY Designers went for the bold and the new; Ralph Lauren unveiled his collection out of town alongside his collection of racing cars. Jenny Packham completely ditched the runway in favor of a photographic and video campaign.

— STYLES THAT — REIGNED SUPREME Joan Smalls walks the runway at the Tom Ford Spring Summer 2018 fashion show during New York Fashion Week. (Credit: Ovidiu Hrubaru/Shutterstock)

Let’s Talk About the Trends The NYFW spring-summer 2018 was diverse to say the least; from the American horror film references at Calvin Klein to motocross stuntmen flying through the air around pink glittery sand dunes at Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma show.

Designers & Denim Basic jeans got a major fashion update this season; designers put their own stamp on jeans and denim jackets with unexpected embellishments and combinations.

Suits the Models Just Fine Dressing down is out, dressing up and suits are in! Designers released versions of the power suit for work, evening or anything in between.

Above: Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer 2018 Collection. Credit: Victoria Beckham Opposite page: Coach Spring Collection. Credit: Coach

Models walk runway for the Tadashi Shoji Spring/Summer 2018 runway show during New York Fashion Week at Skylight Clarkson Square, Manhattan. Credit: Sam Aronov/Shutterstock

Geometric Cut-Outs

— HERE WERE SOME OF MY — FAVORITE SHOWS

The “cold shoulder” trend has evolved, and geometric cut outs were all the rage.

Sheer Beauty Sheer was everywhere and multiple variations of “The Naked Dress” look.

Flirty Flamenco Flounces and ruffles galore incorporated into a multitude of ways.

Color Me Happy Sunny yellow is one of the biggest color trends for spring and summer! Yellow was a show-stopping statement color at Carolina Herrera and Ralph Lauren. Primary colors, sparkles and shine! Pink is the winner of the season with red, yellow, green and lavender tied for second. Rainbow color combinations were exploding everywhere– hot pink paired with red: the color combo of the season for Tom Ford. Marc Jacobs was orange, green and psychedelic.

Maximum Style Bold prints, all-over embellishments and lots of sequins! The runway was covered with ruffles, fringe, raw edges, and tassels! All-over print outfits, mixing of bold prints and even a large variety of abstract prints and checks.

Oscar de la Renta overtook Sotheby’s and used the escalators as an extended runway, how clever.

Body Positive Runway - Casting Got More Diverse Not only did racial diversity on the runways reach an all-time high, but there was also an influx of plus-size, transgender, non-binary and over-50 age representation. Plus-size models are having a moment; Ashley Graham walking for Prabal Gurung and Michael Kors, not to mention plus-size only collections from Addition Elle and Chromat.

Calvin Klein was a road trip around Americana with horror-story asides (blood-red-splattered cowboy boots), cheerleader pom-poms, and a dash of Andy Warhol. Hitchcock-esque blondes wore rubber, and gauzy nightgowns a la Sissy Spacek in Carrie. “American horror, American dreams,” Raf Simons summarized in his show notes. Coach 1941 was all about feel-good Americana with prairie dresses, varsity and leather jackets. Keith Haring graphics were mixed into the collection, the artist’s best-known works appearing on T-shirts, outerwear and bags. Retro patchwork denim and dresses covered with glitter, while models debuted the looks on a shimmery runway covered in glitter. Diane von Furstenberg sent models down the catwalk in bold hand-painted flowers on sundresses and wide-leg trousers with a bold stripe. The trend was in full force, and color reigned supreme. Fenty x Puma was by far the most exciting show as motocross stuntmen roared up a giant ramp performing electrifying 360-degree tricks over mountains of pink sand on the runway below. Rihanna’s collection was a mix of biker, surf ELYSIAN

and scuba influences with sheer mesh detailing, industrial zippers, adjustable lacing, and toggles. Shown at the Park Avenue Armory, everyone was highly taken by the show and death-defining entertainment. RiRi closed the show by riding on the back of a motorbike. Jeremy Scott’s show was the 20th anniversary of Scott’s line. The show had all of his favorite models: Devon Aoki, Jourdan Dunn, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Slick Woods, Liberty Ross and Gigi Hadid all wore camo jackets over sweatshirt dresses emblazoned with graphic cartoons and glitter. Rag & Bone - Marcus Wainwright staged a photo project in place of a runway show where he invited friends of the brand to wear the spring/summer Rag & Bone collection and take self-portraits. Money saved on the show meant charitable contributions were made to organizations of each cast member’s choice.

Designer Marc Jacobs (Credit: Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images)

named after her adorable daughter. We saw beautiful sorbet shades paired with pale neutrals and graph-paper checks. I loved every piece. Marc Jacobs ended Fashion Week just as he did last season, in complete silence. It was at the huge, echoing high-ceilinged Park Avenue Armory, and there was no elaborate set, no fancy lighting and no music. All one could hear was the sound of the clothes swishing as models walked on the old wood floors. Seating was arranged on metal folding chairs on the perimeter of the wide open space, which made guests on the other side of the room seem tiny and the models, who carried weekend totes and wore fanny packs (another big trend), look as if they were in transit from a faraway imaginary locale.

The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen staged their show over scones and coffee at the Carlyle Hotel with a breakfast presentation. They wanted a soft, romantic ambiance, and it came to life in the Bemelmans Bar; dreamy, evening dresses, all-white outfits in a fabric made from actual paper, and low-slung khakis. Fitting because a famous gathering place for socialites, world leaders, and celebrities when Ludwig Bemelmans began to create his masterpiece murals at the hotel bar. Tom Ford returned to New York after seasons of jumping all over the globe. Opening New York Fashion Week, the designer transformed the Park Avenue Armory into a luscious lounge with lavender lighting. The show was sexy and seductive, with crystal-embellished panties, power-shoulder suiting and bandage evening dresses. After the show ended, the site transformed into an after-party. Victoria Beckham’s designs were both beautiful and wearable. Feminine but strong; the new tailoring was a boxy blazer and slim pants. A standout star was the new glitter Harper slippers;

The Blonds Spring Summer 2018 fashion show (Credit: Ovidiu Hrubaru/Shutterstock)

It was another amazing edition of NYFW with exceptional collections. Those moments when jaw-dropping garments debut down the runway eliciting “oohs and aahs” from the crowd leaving the attendees feeling creatively inspired are always a highlight. Looking forward to seeing how these designer trends translate into prêtà-porter. Look for it all soon in the fashionable stores near you... Happy Shopping!

ABOUT FAITH HOPE CONSOLO

Designer Pamella Roland (Credit: Ovidiu Hrubaru / Shutterstock)

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Faith Hope Consolo is chairman of Douglas Elliman’s Retail Group in New York. Recognized worldwide as the “Queen of Retail,” Consolo is renowned for her expertise as a consultant and retail broker who has been instrumental in revitalizing and sculpting retail corridors across the nation and beyond. Her client base includes top-tier fashion names as Buccellati, Ivanka Trump, Cartier, Versace, Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, and Yves Saint Laurent. She is responsible for the most successful commercial division of New York City’s largest residential real estate brokerage firm.

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for the holidays...

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Women ofDistinction Our Distinguished Women have been selected because each has carved out a unique path through life that is recognized by others as exceptional. You will see a commonality in the interviews. These remarkable women have achieved greatness by following their internal compasses while facing the circumstances they are dealt in life. None had a road map.

For video interviews, visit readelysian.com/womenofdistinction Portions of these interviews have been selected to showcase these womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinctive lives and have been edited for clarity and brevity.

ELYSIAN

DANIELLE ROLLINS

KAREN ABBOTT

PHYLLIS NEWHOUSE

PHYLLIS DELAPP

Born: Dallas, TX Resides: Atlanta, GA

Born: Philadelphia Resides: New York City

Born: Wilmington, NC Resides: Atlanta, GA

Born: Wilmington, NC Resides: Spartanburg, SC

Author of Soiree: Entertaining with Style and co-owner of Rollins Ingram, a full-service design firm

New York Times bestselling author of Sin in the Second City, American Rose, and Liar, Temptress, Soldier, Spy

Retired U. S. Army non-commissioned officer and CEO and co-founder of Xtreme Solutions, Inc.

Former co-owner of Mid South Management Company, which managed over 17 newspapers across the Southeast

E SHOP & EXPLORE ELYSIAN

ELYSIAN

[ WOMEN ] TVSÁ PIW

Danielle Rollins Hostess & Tastemaster A love for aesthetics and creating beauty comes naturally for Danielle Rollins, creator of a lifestyle blog focusing on gracious living and stylish entertaining. Danielle’s various business ventures include a clothing line, interior decorating, and a style blog.

U Q. A.

What number child are you?

I was the oldest. I had a younger brother that committed suicide. He was 21, and I was 25.

Q. A.

What a tragic event at such an impressionable age.

Yes, it was just a grown-up moment. It was a world of shock. It was almost harder, I think, for me to watch my parents go through that. It is an unnatural order of the progression of life. To have a parent lose a child is, by definition, walking through hell on earth. Now that I’m a parent, I can’t imagine what they went through.

Q. A.

At 21, what was the cause?

Who knows? I don’t know that I have ever met a normal 21-year old boy, and I have one that is turning 21 this year. There are a lot of hormones and trying to sort through life. I think that it is easy to get lost at that age, in addition to having impulsive actions. That is one of the things I have always tried to work on with my own kids: thinking through consequences. I think that’s a hallmark of an ADD, ADHD kid too. Seemed like a good idea at that moment.

Q. A.

I have never read about your brother before.

I do not publicize it, but I’m very open about what happened. I believe it is important to show life’s difficulties. People sometimes have an impression, when they see pictures, especially of a book, that everything’s perfect. I think it is important not to give a false impression of yourself to other people. It makes it easier all the way around. I want to express myself as the whole person that I am.

Were you in college, or did it happen after college?

It was after college. I had just moved to Richmond, Virginia and had moved in with my now ex-husband. In hindsight, a lot of the stumbling blocks were laid around at that point in time. I was at a vulnerable stage of my life. I had picked up and moved across the country to move in with someone. I started a new job that was very stressful. I was living in a city without any family or friends, and I didn’t have a proper support system. It was a different environment than I was used to. Living with someone was a new experience. The job was incredibly demanding. I went from working as a radio sales promotion director to basically working in sales and tasked with creating “nontraditional revenue streams.” I would work with companies like Nabisco, or a corporation of that size, and handle

ELYSIAN

“ “ It was an era when women wore slacks and carried the purse. I just always thought she was so glamorous, which is how everybody should think of their grandmother I guess.”

their entire media buy and put on a promotion. It was right at the time when the Internet was starting. Everybody was searching for new revenue streams. It was demanding because the position was new for me, and I had never sold anything before. I found that it was a natural fit, and I did well, but it required a lot of hours.

Q. A.

You were raised in Texas, lived on the West Coast, Virginia, North Carolina and now, Atlanta,Georgia. Do you have a preference?

Well, I love it here. I think Atlanta will probably always be home. I still like going back to Dallas and seeing friends, but I can’t imagine myself moving back there. But never say never.

ELYSIAN

Q. A.

Does fear motivate you?

No, I don’t think I have a natural response to fear. I have fallen flat on my face enough. I have learned that you can only go as far as the floor. At some point, you can bounce back up. So, fear is not my motivation. When something doesn’t feel right, I usually lean into it and try to find out what is making me not want to do something. I then push myself around the barrier. I know, quite honestly, it sounds strange, but it’s beauty that motivates me. Everybody should have access to style and to beautiful surroundings. Beauty makes a difference in our life. I think that I really have discovered something I took for granted in myself. I always thought that everybody could create beautiful things. I have learned creating beauty is much more of a gift than I ever knew. I like to break down scale, color,

pattern and texture in a way that other people can understand. Hopefully, they will take the risk themselves to try something to make their own lives at least look better, even if they’re not functioning better; I think there are metaphors for that. If everything looks okay, then you can fake it till you make it.

When did your love for aesthetics and creating beauty come about?

I don’t remember it ever not being about aesthetics and beauty. From a very young age, I had a grandmother that really doted on me. I remember her taking me to Neiman’s to buy a tea set and coming home and my mother saying, “Oh, my God, mother, this is not what you’re supposed to give a four-year-old.” It was this beautiful Wedgwood set. I took such great care of it and kept it wrapped up. Everybody in the world had to have tea parties. I made whole Barbie villages.

Q. A.

To which you responded, “two more?”

Yes. Well, the kids are cute. They are proud of me. It’s nice for them to see a woman do this, especially given my divorce and how messy it was. I should have probably been broken at some point, but it didn’t work out that way, and I think it’s good for them to see that. When things get tough, you don’t have to succumb. You can keep pushing ahead of your dreams and make those things happen. Just for me to keep evolving is important. The interior design business is going well, and I am working on another book. But now, I think I’ll throw in the Capsule Clothing collection at the same time with the new editorial pieces. We have had some growing pains. It’s good for me, from a business side and from a management side, to pull back and focus on the things that we can do well and do those, not try to be everything to everybody.

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Probably. She died when I was much younger. I was only in fifth grade when she passed away, but she had a flare and a sense of style. She was a female entrepreneur, long before her time. I spent a lot of time with her. It was an era when women wore slacks and carried the purse. I just always thought she was so glamorous, which is how everybody should think of their grandmother I guess.

Most people separate their work from their home. This interview is in your lovely Georgian residence which accommodates your various business ventures: clothing line,interior decorating and style blog, and creative space. So, how do you turn off work?

I am good about taking little segments of the day to do that. I think I juggle a lot of balls very successfully. I’m so used to being in a three-ring circus and juggling in all three rings. Multitasking comes naturally to me. I had an office for a while, and it was just too difficult to try to maintain the office and the commute. I enjoyed picking my kids up from school, and at the time, I was renovating this house. It just got to be too much, and I couldn’t manage other people. I also travel so much with work. So, I decided to move my office home to see if it helped my creative output. It did. Now, I think maybe we’re a little ridiculous, but I have a good team. We’ve had this discussion over and over because I’ve been looking at a retail front office space. I keep finding the space, and then we’ll go through the whole process of securing a loan. I get to the point where I think, “Even if I had all the money in the world, and I had a magic wand, I don’t know that that makes sense for me, or if it helps my customers.” I am not taking that on right now. We’ve got some people everywhere, even in the basement. My daughter walked through my hall last night and said, “Boy, I’m not sure you can put one more desk in here,” because we literally have two in the office. We have two in the hallway, two in the library, two downstairs. She said, “Well, you know, you could take over Emerson’s room since he’s at school.”

“ Everyone should have access to style and to beautiful surroundings”

ELYSIAN chooses inspirational women to interview as Women of Distinction. Like you, each has experienced setbacks and tragedy. What was your turning point?

I went through such a traumatic relationship during my marriage. It took quite a lot of therapy for me to realize that I was being abused to the level that I was. I knew things weren’t right. Like a lot of abused women, you make excuses for the behavior. I think you always believe that it’s something somebody didn’t mean, especially for an empathetic person. You assign character traits to people sometimes that they don’t have. For me to get through that, and internalize it and accept it, and to give myself permission to admit that I did the best I could, with the skill sets I had at the time, was key. The decision to leave, knowing that it was going be difficult, and do it anyway, was hard. I remember as the first book was coming out thinking, “I will never fly privately again,” and that was fine. I would never use the divorce as something that became my limitation. I wanted to take this and use it, so that it becomes my freedom. I remembered walking through the terminal at LaGuardia thinking, “Oh, my God, I get to do this.” I pretty much vowed that I would never complain about a plane being late or cancelled. When air travel is not going the right way, I think, “Okay, you made this promise. This is what you wanted. Buck up and do it.” I feel incredibly grateful, incredibly blessed. I feel like I have a whole opportunity to do something that I didn’t know I could do. And now look at us six years later. Some days I look back and think, “Oh, my God, is this all I’ve accomplished in six years?” Other days I think, “Oh, my God, look what I’ve accomplished in six years.”

ELYSIAN

Interior design, the clothing line, writing or authoring. What do you like the best?

and make people sometimes enjoy their outfit or their lives just a little bit more. It’s really a part of my heart that needs to share with people.

It depends on the day. I really start thinking sometimes I have one of those multiple personality disorders or something because some days I like the writing. Some days I love the creativity of the clothing. Some days I like the interiors. It depends on what I feel like I’m good at in that moment. It would be like choosing a favorite child. Right now, I’m having the most fun with the clothing because it’s new and because I love the learning process. For at least three weeks, I have gone to bed thinking my head feels like the end of a thermometer that is going to come off. Figuring out the best processes for work orders and purchase orders and putting systems in place; I like that part of the business as much as I like the creative. I know. It’s strange. I really love numbers. I spent the last week working on a proforma because I am trying to get a loan and possibly, go for debt investing. That has been fascinating for me to learn. I am also enjoying seeing success on the hanger and on a piece of paper. I find the writing cathartic and soothing. It is a very quiet exercise.

Q. A.

What brings you joy?

Work. I like having a creative outlet. I get such a sense of joy and satisfaction and happiness. With the interiors and the clothing, watching other people put something on or walk into a room that’s theirs… that little spark of joy in their eyes. I like being able to transfer that a little bit

ELYSIAN

Q. A.

Was there a single event that changed your life?

Oh gosh, fi ling for divorce and sticking with it. When I look back, everything in my life was just divided straight down the middle because at that point, I had been with my ex-husband for half of my life. I was turning 44 and realized that I had been with him since I was 22. Prior to those 22 years, I was with my parents. I had to make this decision of whether to go through the next half of my life like this.

Q. A.

What life lesson can you share that you might give your children or godchild?

Have an internal compass and know the way that you should be treated. Never allow anyone to treat you any differently. Realizing you are not treated well is about that person, not about your worth. When your worth is not appreciated, it’s time to cut and run. Never settle for anybody putting you in a place that’s not where you should be. You have self-worth. You deserve to have opportunities, and you deserve to be treated a certain way. I want both girls to be strong, and I want my boys to respect women and see them as someone worthy of an equal relationship and partnership.

ELYSIAN

[ WOMEN ] TVSÁ PIW

Karen Abbott Author & Historian Karen Abbott is a New York Times best-selling author of Sin in the Second City, American Rose, and Liar, Temptress, Soldier, Spy. Her career started as a young journalist, where she found a passion for gathering HIXEMPW XLMW PIH LIV XS [VMXMRK LMWXSVMGEP RSR Á GXMSR RSZIPW ;ERXMRK XS FVMRK women to the forefront in history, her books feature women in a central role.

U Q. You began writing as a young journalist.

Q. You enjoy storytelling about real events and

A. I started off at a weekly newspaper called Philadelphia Weekly covering everything from murderers to serial killers. I loved the dark side of storytelling in that way. I covered profiles, politicians, and was a little bit of a jack-of-alltrades. The thing I most enjoyed was taking a story and really examining it. There was a car crash in South Philadelphia that killed six or seven children in a van and devastated that community. It had a ripple effect. I spent a long time really getting a blow-by-blow of what had happened and how it impacted the community. For another story I randomly picked a name out of the phone book and wrote about this person. It was a woman who was a descendent of slaves. Her history still remained and somewhat defined her. She was living in a complex in South Philadelphia. That story was fascinating. I think what was the most helpful about my experience in journalism was, back when I was doing this, editors would say, “Go ahead, write 7,000 words on this, write 10,000 words on this.” It was a freedom of storytelling that you don’t have in print today. I think that experience prepared me, and probably a lot of my colleagues who ended up writing books, to be able to write 100,000 words, particularly, after you’ve been doing these pretty long narrative pieces for a while.

A. My goal, with writing non-fiction, is to try to make it read like a story. I want somebody to pick up a book of history and say, “This doesn’t read like a history book. This reads like I’m reading it in real-time,” or that this was somebody’s diary or a record of what was happening at the time because history is exciting as anything. I think people have a negative view of history and that it’s boring on the page, but it wasn’t boring when it happened. The goal, or at least my goal in writing, is to make these people come alive in a way that makes them seem real and makes the event seem immediate and present and relevant to today, and not just something dusty and just stuck in the archives.

What was your beat?

people with a unique style or genre.

Q. How much creative latitude do you give yourself when dealing with historical facts?

There are novelistic techniques that a lot of narrative non-fiction people employ. You can cut off a scene where there’s suspense. You cut off and let the reader say, “Oh, God, I need to get back to that.” And you ELYSELYSIAN ELYSIAN ELY 59 9

“ These were incredibly strong women who were defying the social morays of their time and daring to do things that today wouldn’t be as lauded or recognized. They were daring at a time when it was even more HMJÁGYPX XS FI HEVMRK ”

can make scenes. My goal whenever I’m writing a book is to visualize how I think the movie would look? How would the scene look? Who would play this? Where would they be standing? What would they be doing? I write it like a scene. It’s almost like writing a movie script. The only way that you can do that though, is if you gather the details. I think one of the things journalism really helped me learn was gathering details. The writer of narrative non-fiction cannot try to be funny. You cannot try to be smart. You cannot try to be poignant. You have to let the details do that work for you. The real skill is in gathering details. And no, you can’t really play with facts. You can’t make up dialogue. You can’t go into somebody’s head unless you have a diary that said, “this is what I was thinking at this time.”

Q. When did you start writing? A. Well, I always liked to write. I remember, when I was about 11 and 12, I started writing short story murder mysteries and sending them to Ellery Queen Mystery Magazine under the name of K.L. Abbott. Even at that point, I thought I should use a name that doesn’t indicate that I’m a girl. It is so sad that, even at age 11, I was internalizing that I won’t be taken as seriously if they think that I’m a girl. It didn’t matter that I was 11 or 12. Of course, I was rejected; I was 11. My story was terrible. It was actually about a murderous cross-dressing grandmother. I’ll never forget it. They, very rightly, rejected me, but I kept writing. I never thought that writing was something people did as a profession. It was just fun to me. I had dreams of becoming a lawyer.

Q. =SY¸ZI FIIR UYMXI TVSPMÁG [MXL XLI [SVOW XLEX you’ve done.

I wish I were more prolific. It’s hard to watch my novelist friends when they come out with something every year, every two years. A couple of my friends have had two books in the time I’ll have another book out. But non-fiction just takes longer. The research is so much fun. I never want to skip out on that. I do most of it myself. I have a woman in Washington, D.C. who can retrieve files from the National Archives. I don’t know if you’ve ever written to the National Archives, but it is a labyrinth of confusion and insanity, and the records are seldom where they need to be. You really need somebody who knows how to focus and understands the systems. I could go down there for a week and not find what I was looking for, and she knows where to get it. So, I have somebody in D.C. who goes to the National Archives and then pretty much everything else I do on my own. 60

ELYSIAN

Q. What is your creative inspiration when writing? A. Before I start writing, I usually like to listen to some music that’s in the time period that I’m writing about. So, when I wrote Sin in the Second City, I was listening to ragtime. I would really try to just put myself in 1905, or whatever year it’s been, 1900 to 1910. With Liar, Temptress, Soldier, Spy, I listened to some war music and some of the songs that were popular at that time.

Q. How do you get into the writing itself? A. I read the diaries of the women who were writing about that time. Some of them are incredibly eloquent. I use the time to get in the mood. I feed my bird, bring my bird in the office with me, and I open up the files. Sometimes it’s a Herculean task just to open the file, but here’s a trick that I always use: you always stop in the middle of a sentence. Even if you’re on a roll, if it’s about time to wrap up, you stop in the middle of a sentence because when you go back, you’re on a roll. You know exactly where to pick up, and it helps your momentum. I’m a night owl, so I love to write at night. But the problem is I’m also an insomniac. I’ll never sleep if I am not careful. So, I have to cut myself off at 8:30 when I’m really getting going, which is a shame. Then maybe twice a year, when I’m on deadline, I will go out to the North Fork of Long Island, rent a place for a month and not speak to anyone, not see anyone. It’s hard not to speak or see anyone in New York City. So, I go out there and just sort of hunker down and basically, become a hermit.

Q. Is exercise a part of your creativity? A.

Yes, especially when I’ve been on the road eating junk. No, I exercise almost every day. I tried to get into meditation. Exercise/meditation go hand in hand. If I stop exercising, I’m not meditating. So, I try to tie one to the other. I do a lot of yoga. They say stay in the moment, and I use that time in the pose to think about what I’m doing and where I am on the page, where I am in the story, and sort of try to tap into creativity.

Q. I noticed in all of your works, women play the central role. Why?

A. It’s just naturally where my needle goes. Anytime I start thinking about a subject, I’m always thinking, “Well, what were the women doing?” And not just any women. You know, what were the bad women doing? What were the defiant women doing? So, everybody has a needle on their scale, and that’s where my needle always goes. Women were written out of history. Our accomplishments have been overlooked largely. In Liar, Temptress, Soldier, Spy, it was really just disheartening to know that nobody has really heard of Elizabeth Van Lew, a Union spy who lived in Richmond, Virginia, the capital of the Confederacy. The Union would not have won the war without her. But nobody’s heard of her. She should be a household name along with Stonewall Jackson and Lee and Ulysses S. Grant. Nobody has heard of her. I feel if I can just bring her to the attention of some people, that would be great. The other part of it is these are women whose lives I wish I had lived just because they changed history. These were incredibly strong women who were defying the social morays of their time and daring to do things that today wouldn’t be as lauded or recognized. They were daring at a time when it was even more difficult to be daring. There were just so many more restrictions on women. And so, writing about them is the next best thing.

Q. A common theme of many of your women that you write about is that they were dismissed?

A. I absolutely think so. Women are still being dismissed. But, of course, it was worse a hundred years ago. Q. Have you experienced dismissal in regards to

your writings and as an author in the 21st Century?

Sure. Every female author has experienced that.

Q. Why? A. I just think that women, across the board, have to work harder to be taken more seriously than men. I always said women have to have routine quality. Women cannot be as mediocre as men and get away with it. Look, women need the freedom to mess up and to make mistakes, and it be as mediocre as men, but we’re not allowed to do that.

Q. I want you to pretend that I am a literary student, and you get to give me one pearl of wisdom, one lesson of life, one something, and I’m a woman, and I’m young. What would you say to me?

A. Oh, I would tell her, if I’m speaking to a young woman, that people only disrespect you with your permission. If you have a sense of self, you should try to carry that with you, and there’s nothing you can’t at least attempt to do. You should always be true to that, and don’t diminish yourself for other people. ELYSIAN

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ELYSIAN

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Phyllis Newhouse Entrepreneur & Soldier

Phyllis Newhouse is the founder and CEO of Xtreme Solutions, Inc., an information technology services & solutions provider. After retiring from the military in 1999, Phyllis started her successful entrepreneurial career.

Q. In 2002, your life took a dramatic turn through business. How did that happen?

I retired from the military in 1999, and I decided I was not going to do what is typically done, which is work for the government in a senior adviser position. I knew that I wanted to be an entrepreneur. Our first client work was on a security platform. When they asked us if we could bring in more consultants with a security background, I thought, “Wow, this could be huge.” I decided to go back to the government and offer the same services we developed from consulting. The first government contract we bid on, we won. Within just a couple of years, the company had become a milliondollar business. In three years, it grew to a multimillion-dollar business. I knew we had a scalable model; the programs could scale, and the company could scale. We offered professional services that encompassed ethical hacking and penetration testing, as well as helping organizations understand their vulnerabilities and how vulnerable they were to cyberattacks. Over the

years, cyberattacks have become more sophisticated, which requires us to be more innovative in the toolkits that we offer our clients.

Q. What skillset did the military help to build

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What I appreciate about the military is that, in 22 years, there was not one single project to work on; each assignment had a different mission. For example, the assignment that I had in Europe was in the European Headquarters Command. There, we worked on multiple platforms across Europe that involved security. That project was totally different from working in the United States intelligence community for the 92nd Military Intelligence Command. Each assignment gave new opportunity to refine skills and to broaden skillsets. My military experience also helped to develop leadership with various levels of responsibility and different opportunities for promotion. There is so much that I learned in my 22 years in the military, all of which prepared me for this journey. ELYSIAN

Q. What was the rank you entered the military, and what was the rank you left?

A. I came into the military in the enlisted rank. I started as a private and finished as a command sergeant major, which was the highest rank a person can achieve. I came through the military in an era of expanding women’s rights. There were significant changes going on in the military with a lot of scrutiny into the roles of women, rights, treatment, promotions, and assignments. Simple questions were being addressed, such as: Do women go to combat or not? What combat assignments can women take? Can you get promoted if you’re not in combat? The military was in a transitional mode during that time. I achieved several ranks at a very early stage of my career, which was unheard of. I attribute that to great female mentors in the military. Many women paved my, and other women’s, way. They prepared me for that next assignment. I had male mentors too, but I attribute a lot of my success to understanding how to navigate through a very complex system. At that time, women leaders who had already come before me showed me how to find the path ahead. Q. You are one of 11 children but raised as one of 19? A. My mother was married and had 11 children by the time she was 32. My mother and her mother (my grandmother) were pregnant at the same time. My grandmother had pregnancy complications through the years and was told if she had any more children, she would probably have a very difficult pregnancy. During this time, in North Carolina, women did not get birth control; it was not accessible. African-American women were not readily admitted to hospitals either. But as luck would have it, they both ended up in this one hospital. My mother went into labor while she was with her mother (my grandmother). My grandmother said, “If anything ever happens to me, promise me my kids will not be separated.” My mother made that promise to her. My mother went into labor and had my sister. On that same day, the nurse brought her another baby and said, “Here is another child.” My mother said, “I only had one child.” The nurse replied, “Your mom died. So, here’s the other baby.” My mother had seven more children, which is how there were 19. She kept her promise and did not raise us separately. I didn’t know until I was in my early 20s that my aunts were not my sisters because she never made them feel like they were not part of the family.

Q. How was she able to provide for 19 children? A. We have these conversations with her now. She’ll say, “I raised 11 children, and you guys complain about this and that.” It was community though. She survived a lot. My father was in the picture, but he worked all the time to provide. I would not be where I am in my life today if it had not been for the example my mom set. She was the first CEO that I had ever known. Think about the skillsets it takes to run a big company; think about that in terms of running a big family. You must be a great talent manager, proficient in conflict resolution, and manage a strict budget. And so, she led by example. Many of the attributes that she developed in raising a big family are some of the same attributes that she passed along to a lot of us.

Q. What is the source of your strength? A. It’s my faith. At a very young age, my spiritual foundation was there. Not just because my mother told me but because it was what I felt. I truly live a very purposeful life. I know what my purpose is, and I do not think that that is an easy thing to figure out or to come by. I think it’s something that you have to be willing to investigate, explore, be willing to accept. I ran away from that purpose for a very long time. Every day, I live that purpose very deliberately. 66

ELYSIAN

“ I achieved several ranks at a very early stage of my career, which was unheard of. I attribute that to great female mentors in the military. Many women paved my, and other women’s, way. They prepared me for that next assignment. ”

Q. What is that purpose? A. For people who may not feel like there is hope or may not even

Q. Tell me a little bit about your son. A. My son, wow. I named my son Ezekiel. I mean this is emotional for

know that there is something unique within them, my purpose is to impact their lives and inspire. I think that God blessed me with that talent.

me because Ezekiel is about faith. When I see my son, I see faith. The reason I say that is because he was ten years in the making. Anything in my life that I am waiting on, an answer or even in business, it goes back to faith. There are so many areas in my life I apply this to. It took ten years. You can guess what people told me. There were some tough times in marriage, but he was the product of just trusting God no matter what. I often use this as a life example, even when I’m talking to family members or whatever. I say, “Look, I waited on something for ten years.” My relationship with my son is very deep. We have a very close relationship, and he understands. We have often talked about what it meant having him in my life. I told him recently, “Do you know what? You are my biggest reason why everything ties back to having faith. It’s like, look at what God can do when you trust Him no matter what.” Our relationship is indicative of that trust and that faith. At the Ernst & Young banquet, I made him stand up, embarrassed the hell out of him. Later he told me, “Mom, you’re beyond my hero.” To have a 20-year-old tell you that means a lot. He shared with me, “You know, mom, I don’t know if I’m enough when I look at the path you’ve taken and the journey you’ve had.” And I said, “Son, you are always enough. You know, you’re enough.” I think that’s so important to tell this generation. I think it’s more important to tell the people that you love that you’re enough. You are enough. I don’t care if you did anything else today. You are enough. When I look at this kid, he sums it up for me because I see so much in him that’s a part of where I’ve come from, where I’m going, and what the end will be.

Q. Is your gift spiritual or inspirational? A. I think it’s a combination. Yes, I think it’s a combination. I sat with a couple of women CEOs about two weeks ago, and there was not a dry eye in that room. It wasn’t because of my presence, but it was because of what I had to share. Sometimes I think that people don’t like to get raw. They don’t like to get real. They don’t like to get deep. When you do that, and when you open yourself up to that, that’s when we get a chance to really tap into who that person really is and what they’re about. CEOs that run big companies, there’s something unique in all of us that is waiting to come out. I believe it’s the connection that we lack. When we get an opportunity to connect on a deeper level, you get to know who Phyllis really is, and what she is about outside of the company, the military. This is who I am and where I think we can offer the most.

Q. What lifts you up? A. I go back to God. He is my source. I’ve always been that way. Q. Do you remember a cataclysmic moment,

a pivotal moment in your youth, where you went from dark to light, or was it always from the moment you were born that you had a direction from God?

A. I was having a conversation with a dear friend who shared with me that they didn’t believe in God. It did not change my perception of the person; it just drew me closer. She was asking me the same question. I remember when our school system had been integrated. Children from the black community had been moved to an all-white school. I remember coming from the previous school where we had all African-American teachers and now, where we were going to school, all teachers were white. There was a teacher who used very racist language in the classroom. When she left to get the principal, all hell was breaking out. I said, “Listen, you guys, calm down. We will not let one person define us. Let’s come together, and let’s show them who we really are. We’re here for a great education.” I was in the sixth grade, and in that moment, it was a choice to either rebel or to exercise leadership at a young age. I remember, at that moment, feeling like I’m supposed to be doing something different. I’m supposed to be doing something which is coming from a higher place. No one told me to do that. I remember so many incidents like this. Q. Do you believe God directed your actions? A. Absolutely. I felt it in my heart first. ELYSIAN

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[ WOMEN ] TVSÁ PIW

Phyllis DeLapp Businesswoman & Journalist Having grown up in the newspaper business, Phyllis DeLapp became a businesswoman at a very young age. When her role model, her father, passed away, she and her brother took over Mid-South Management Company, a large newspaper company. Today, Phyllis is very active with her philanthropic interests, most notably Spartanburg Methodist College in South Carolina.

Q. Who was the person that molded you the most? A. It would be my dad. My mom died when I was 12 and left my dad with a 2-year-old and a 12-year-old, which is an awesome responsibility to have.

Q. Do you remember your mother? A. Very much, yes. My mother was 39, and it didn’t occur to me then that 39 was extremely young. She had a Berry aneurysm, which is a blood clot in the brain.

Q. You were physically there with her when she had the aneurysm?

A. I guess I was. I had a group of girls spend the night that night. My father came in that morning and said, “The girls need to go home. Your mom’s going to have to go to the hospital.” In fact, I rode to the hospital in the ambulance with my mom. She was in the hospital for about two weeks before she passed away. The doctors said there was a drug, that if they gave

it to her, could either be a big improvement or could be deadly. My dad was willing to take a chance that there might be a big improvement because the outlook was so grim.

Q. That’s very traumatic. Do you think it affected you? A. Yes, I have always missed the things that girls do with their mom. I was always a little envious of my friends that had such close relationships with their moms. I think I missed out on a lot of fun.

Q. Do you think it affected your parenting? A. Probably because I didn’t have anything to base it on, so I just hoped for the best.

Q. Where did you go to boarding school? A. I went to Brenau Academy in Gainesville, Georgia. I was 14. My mother and daddy had already decided they wanted me to go to boarding school prior to her death. ELYSIAN

“ We have so much to be thankful for, and we need to spend a little more time being thankful for what we have.”

U Q. Did your father remarry after your mother’s death? A Yes, at least two times, but it was okay. Q. When you came back from boarding school, was he remarried at that time?

A. He got married, and she was all right. She was good to my little brother. She was really his mother because he has no memory of our mother whatsoever. He was just 2 years old; he needed a mama. She did a great job raising him, and that was what was important. Q. Your father, you, your son, and your nephew are very involved with Spartanburg Methodist College. How did that come about?

A. Well, the school is dear to my heart. My dad was on the board for many years. In fact, he was on the board when they changed the name of the school from Spartanburg Junior College to Spartanburg Methodist College. The college’s president, Steve Cochran, just came to work with us. He came from Wofford College, as a matter of fact. He is really bright. Spartanburg Methodist College is finally on financially, solid footing; I am so pleased that we have never turned a student down because they did not have the money to attend. I think that’s a powerful legacy for us. Q. ;LIR HMH ]SY ÁRH ER MRXIVIWX MR XLI newspaper business?

That’s all I ever knew.

Q. In your childhood, were you a girly girl or a tomboy?

I always played “store.” I did not play with my dolls. I played “store.”

Q. And do you remember, as a young girl, going

with your father to the paper in Macon, Georgia?

A. I just remember that is where he worked. I didn’t know what he did. The office was closed on weekends, but we would go down to check his mail. He probably did that all his life. 72

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Q. Did he ever talk to you about the newspaper business?

A. All he did was talk about newspapers. Of course, World War II was going on during this time, and that had a big effect. In fact, he was not drafted because he had two children and was in a strategic position. So, he did not serve in World War II, but he worked for the Macon Telegraph & News. The company that my dad worked for bought three daily newspapers: the Spartanburg paper, the Gadsden, Alabama, paper, and the Tuscaloosa, Alabama, paper. My father was chosen to come to Spartanburg and run the Spartanburg paper, which is how we came to South Carolina. Q. Was he a journalist, a businessman, or an advertising guy?

Totally a businessman and an advertising manager.

Q. Did they work hard? A. Oh, yes, and everybody had such pride in their company and in their work. They wanted it to succeed, and they wanted to do well.

Q. Where did you actually print the papers? A. Locally, in the newspaper offices. Most of the offices had their own presses.

Q. Where were your newspapers located, and how did you manage them?

A. We were close to an airport, so we could fly into every place that we had a newspaper, since they were all fairly close. We had quite a few papers in North Carolina. We even owned the paper in Mount Airy, the home of Andy Griffith.

Q. Did he have a creative side? A. Probably not. Just strength in finances.

Q. How far north did your newspapers span? A. Ohio.

Q. What college did he attend? A. Georgia Tech. We did not miss the Georgia Tech football games.

Q. How far south? Were you in Florida? A. I don’t think we ever had a newspaper in Florida. We had some in Georgia, but I don’t believe we ever had one in Florida.

Q. How long did he serve as the Spartanburg paper’s publisher?

Thirty-five years.

Q. Did you ever go as far west as Texas? A. No, I don’t think so. Our concentration was really North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Virginia, and West Virginia.

Q. Why did he begin purchasing other papers? A. Well, his connection with the company that owned the Spartanburg paper was a lease situation. Actually, it was an annual lease, and he realized, at some point, that if they chose not to sign the lease, we were out in the cold. So, he started his own company consisting mostly of small dailies or large weeklies. That was his niche and what he stuck to. I think that is how he remained so successful. He didn’t try to branch out. He understood a small daily is a totally different ballgame from a large daily. We are talking about small places like Union, South Carolina, as opposed to Atlanta.

Q. At age 72, your father passed away, and you and your brother took over Mid-South Management Company.

A. Yes, we owned Mid-South Management Company with over 17 newspapers. At one point, we had approximately 500 employees. Q. For two decades, you and your younger brother Bill owned Mid-South Management. What lesson can you share about your success?

We had such marvelous employees that the company ran itself. When you are good to your employees, they are good to you. There were four generations of people working for us. They loved us, and we loved them back. I think that was what was so special about Mid-South. We really were just one big family.

Q. What prompted your decision to sell? A. Originally, we had not made a decision to sell. Then, one day someone contacted us with an offer. We could see the handwriting on the wall with the newspaper sector we owned, so we decided it was a good thing to do. Since there was someone wanting to buy it, we decided it was a good time to make the move.

Q. You are a businesswoman, but at one point, you were also a journalist?

A. Well, my ex-husband was in the Marine Corps, and I needed to make some money while he was stationed in Japan. So, I got credentials to be the Spartanburg Herald-Journal foreign correspondent. I wrote feature stories, everything from how to do Japanese flower arranging to Japanese cooking. Q. ;LEX [EW XLI ÁVWX RI[WTETIV NSF ]SY LEH# A. Writing obituaries. Q. You are in great standing because many women

journalists began their careers by writing obituaries.

Does that tell you anything?

Q. You really worked your entire life? A. Yes, I did. ELYSIAN

Q. How old were you when you were married? A. Too young. I was 20-something. Q. And you were whisked away to where? A. To Quantico, Virginia.

natural optimist?

A. I think both. I am not too impressed with people that sit around and think about the negative things in life. There’s too much to be thankful for. Q. You have had a lot of heartache, and yet you have “pushed through” it. What is your secret?

Q. And what was that experience like? A. Since I’d never been away from home, it was really quite an experience.

A. I think you need to spend a whole lot of time being thankful for what the Lord has given you.

Q. You made a life-long friend during that time,

Q. Do you depend heavily on your faith? A. Yes, I really do. My dad’s favorite prayer was, “Lord, make us truly

didn’t you?

Yes, her name was Kay, and we were friends for 50 years. I miss her every day. It is interesting to have a friend like that for 50 years. We shared so many memories, and we were so much alike.

Q. And when was the last time you saw her? A. Right before she died. Q. Who was Bob DeLapp? A. Bob DeLapp was my husband; he was quite a character. He was my blind date and was lots of fun. Teri Cullman said that he was the best dancer in South Carolina.

Q. Were you a good dancer? A. Not like that. Q. How long were you married to Bob? A. We had 30 years of marriage. We had a really good time. Q. He made you laugh? A. Oh, yes. He made everybody laugh. Q. So, what was the secret to a good marriage? A. I don’t know. We had a good time and liked to do the same things. Well, we liked to go to the beach, and he would play golf. We liked each other.

Q. You have also lost two children and a husband. How were you able to cope?

There were so many good memories. We had so many blessings.

Q. Is that how you address tragedy? You try to think of the good in it?

A. Probably so, because in the midst of sadness, there really are so many, so many good things. We just don’t spend enough time thinking about the good things. 74

Q. Do you discipline yourself to do that, or are you a

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thankful for these and all of our many blessings.” I think part of what is wrong with all of us is that we don’t take enough time thanking God for the many blessings we have. We have so much to be thankful for, and we need to spend a little more time being thankful for what we have.

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[ H E A LT H ] Dr. Birchenough

THOSE NAGGING SYMPTOMS MEAN SOMETHING • Are you on overdrive in your life? So overloaded taking care of business and other people that you don’t have time to pay attention to your most valuable asset, your health? Most people assume that achiness, weariness and digestive issues are normal as we age, but they’re not. These are actually early warning signs that something’s not right. When you have hard to define symptoms that have accumulated over time, the root cause can be hard to uncover without proper investigation and testing. Most conventional medical professionals don’t have the time to dig deep into the underlying causes; that’s why so many people end up on the ‘quick fi x’ prescription medications. A functional medicine specialist has the tools to help identify and provide your body with what it needs to correct a pre-disease state. Don’t ignore those nagging symptoms. Bring them to the attention of someone who can help you puzzle them out, so that you can get back to the business of living a full life.

OPTIMAL SELF with Dr. Katherine Birchenough

• Welcome to the inaugural column of Optimal Self, a column designed to offer helpful insights for achieving ideal health. Over the last 12 years, I’ve seen thousands of patients in what I call a “pre-disease state,” where the body sends an alarm signal that comes in the form of vague, unsettling symptoms. Functional medicine emerged as a field to determine why the alarm is sounding and how to shut it off naturally before a disease occurs. I will never take the place of your primary care doctor but will partner with him or her to take the best care of you. My role is that of a consultant, taking you further down the road of investigating the root cause of your health issues. In order for you to maintain your edge, maintain your energy, and engage in your life, you have to take care of your health every single day. I believe in prolonging the healthspan, not just the life span. My heart is that of a healer, and my passion is discovering the root cause of disease and suffering in my patients. I will share these insights in the hopes that you will discover your Optimal Self.

hormone balance, and a calm mind are all critical facets of health. Partnering with a good health detective can help you overcome these challenges and achieve optimal health.

HOLISTIC TREATMENT OF THE BODY • My goal for this column is to provide insight into the many complex systems we are dealing with when it comes to overcoming the challenges of staying healthy in an increasingly unhealthy environment. I treat the whole body, not one specific problem. Everything is interconnected, so it should be treated as one issue with many facets for optimal healing.

Some of our topics will include: •

Digestion, including proper absorption and assimilation of nutrition •

Mental and physical energy and what’s possibly missing or interrupting these intricate pathways •

Metabolism and how inflammation from our diet and environment is influencing it

THE ROAD TO RECOVERY STARTS WITH IDENTIFYING THE PROBLEM • Maybe you’ve spent years going from doctor to doctor with vague, unexplained symptoms that no one has been able to diagnose. Maybe your symptoms suddenly become acute, but the medicines are not working or are making it worse. By looking deep into the body’s complex network of symptoms, a functional medicine physician can identify patterns of dysfunction, help restore balance in the body, and begin the road to recovery and achieving wellness. Nutrition, digestion and absorption, immune dysfunction, inflammation, detoxification, energy metabolism,

•

Nutrition and detoxification and why they are both so very important to a balanced system •

Hormones and the endocrine system as a whole, including adrenal, thyroid and sex hormones •

Immune function and helping to calm an overactive immune response by removing offending triggers like certain foods, chemicals, and chronic infections — If you have a specific question or see a topic that you’d like to learn more about, I’d love to hear from you. Submit your questions to www.katherinebirchenoughmd.com/contact/

ABOUT DR. BIRCHENOUGH /EXLIVMRI &MVGLIRSYKL [EW XLI JSYVXL 1( MR XLI WXEXI SJ 7SYXL 'EVSPMRE XS FI GIVXMÁ IH XLVSYKL XLI Institute for Functional Medicine. A South Carolina native, Dr. Birchenough is a University of South 'EVSPMRE 7GLSSP SJ 1IHMGMRI KVEHYEXI FSEVH GIVXMÁ IH MR TIHMEXVMGW ERH IQIVKIRG] QIHMGMRI ERH has recently devoted herself full-time to her wellness practice. Dr. Birchenough practiced traditional medicine for more than 12 years, diagnosing and treating diseases but not really getting to the root cause. Over the years, she watched as unhealthy environments and poor lifestyle choices affected the health of her peers and her patients, at one point even herself, and knew that something had to give. She realized the pursuit of health, beyond just the absence of disease, is a specialty in and of itself but wasn’t available to traditional medical students. This realization brought her to a new career path in functional medicine and has fueled her passion to treat the patient, not just the symptoms. ELYSIAN

[ H E A LT H ] live an active life

GYM MEMBERSHIPS...FINDING YOUR FIT According to the International Health, Racquet & Sportsclub Association, or IHRSA, a fitness industry trade group, 55.3 million Americans have a gym membership. With 67% of gym memberships going unused, according to USA Today, it’s important to find a gym that fits your budget, schedule, and overall lifestyle. With the rise of boutique gyms, it’s even easier to find your workout niche. By Hadley Inabinet

What is it?

A total body workout using small isometric movements to lift your seat, burn fat, and tone your thighs, abs and arms. Using a ballet barre, Pure Barre is a low-impact exercise class led by an instructor.

The philosophy of Burn Boot Camp incorporates a client’s mindset, whole food nutrition, burst training, strength training and community. More than just a high-intensity interval workout, Burn Boot Camp focuses on the person as a whole to implement change in a fun, energetic and motivating atmosphere.

A heart-rate monitored highintensity workout designed to keep heart rates in a target zone that spikes metabolism and increases energy during and after the class.

What to expect?

The class begins with a choreographed warm-up, followed by sections devoted to arms, thighs, legs, and abs. With motivating music and an energetic instructor, the client is encouraged to make a mind-body connection to take the workout to the next level.

Although different each day, class starts with a warm-up and then moves to a circuit-type workout, focusing on different muscle groups each day. The class ends with a “finisher” that pushes the client one last time before the workout ends.

Heart-rate-based interval training using the treadmill, indoor rowing, and weights. The class is divided into two sections: the treadmill and the rowing machine/free weights. Half of class is spent on the treadmill, and the other half is spent rotating between weights and the rower. Depending on whether it’s an endurance or interval class, the client tries to maintain a certain heart rate to achieve maximum results.

How long? 55 minutes

How long? 45 minutes

How long? 55 minutes

What is it?

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What to expect?

What is it? Soul Cycle is not your typical spin class. Encouraging riders to leave all stress behind, the class uses motivating, loud music, inspirational instructors, and the perfect space to allow riders to push themselves beyond their own boundaries in a community-like atmosphere.

What to expect? A full-body workout that incorporates fat-burning cardio, hand weights, core work, and challenging choreography. Clients typically go through a series of songs focusing on climbs, sprints, and downhills. Arm work is added in, followed by additional cardio songs, and then class finishes with a cool-down.

How long? 45 minutes

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[ H E A LT H ] angie comer

REST

[ Restrictive Environmental Stimulation Therapy ] sʟ <ɫʁȉʰ ¢ȉɷɦ Τ Ȳʟȉʜ˘ By Angie Comer Stepping into the pitch black tank, wearing earplugs and nothing more, I tried not to panic. For someone with a mild case of claustrophobia, it was going to be a challenge. I decided that I wanted the full experience of total sensory deprivation, so I hesitantly closed the the big metal door and slowly relaxed into the water. After the first few minutes of lying in total silence with my eyes closed, I realized that I couldn’t feel my body, or the water and wasn’t sure how much of my body was submerged and how much wasn’t. Immediately, my heart began to race as I had no sense of orientation. I quickly sat up and started feeling my way around until I found the large metal handle to the door, pushed it open, and took a deep breath. I gave in to my fear and left the door cracked just enough to see a slither of light to keep me oriented and calm for the duration. Attempt #2 to lie back and relax was much more successful. I tried to clear my mind and just BE. However, the harder I tried, the more random thoughts kept coming. Slowly, I became distracted by the vivid sound of my breathing and heartbeat, and my focus shifted from the thoughts running through my mind to the sound of my breathing. I drifted into complete relaxation: never asleep, but definitely relaxed and less anxious. One of the most widely researched benefits of flotation tanks is their ability to help users release stress and anxiety.

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Studies conducted in the 1980s found that flotation therapy helped reduce levels of stress hormones in the body and decrease blood pressure and other stress-related health problems. More recent studies have confirmed that flotation tanks may actually be more effective than some types of meditation for inducing a relaxed state. The mechanism behind this state is the increased production of theta waves, which are produced during REM sleep, in the brain during floating. These waves help reduce stress, increase creativity and memory and improve mental and physical energy. This increase in production makes REST an option for the treatment of stress and anxiety. Floating can also help reduce joint pain, increase muscle recovery, and assist with pain relief. Because the water in a floatation tank is super-saturated with magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt), the user also experiences the many benefits of supplementation with this mineral. Magnesium has been shown to have incredible health benefits including reduction of muscle cramps, blood pressure normalization, hormonal regulation, increased sleep quality and even reduced cancer risk. Overall, I don’t think this experience was totally life altering. However, I do believe that taking time to disconnect and allowing your mind to be silenced can have monumental benefits to your physical and mental state. They say it takes practice and experience to improve at sensory deprivation therapy, and I plan to incorporate this into my healthy lifestyle journey.

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[ B E AU T Y ] living well

In the name of

BEAUTY

It seems beauty researchers go to the ends of the earth, leaving no stone unturned, when it comes to discovering the best new formulas and techniques. It can be daunting to sift through the seemingly endless wave of new products and cosmetic treatments that are introduced to the market each year. From live snail facials to vampire facelifts, some can seem downright zany, but many are based in well-tested science and centuriesold practices found across cultures. ELYSIAN spoke to leading industry I\TIVXW EFSYX ÁZI MRGVIEWMRKP] TSTYPEV FIEYX] XVIRHW XLEX QMKLX WSYRH unconventional but have been shown to demonstrate real results.

Snail Facial Treatment

In Chile in the 1980s, a curious thing started happening to farmers handling escargot en route to France: their hands began looking younger and smoother. It wasn’t long before then that snail slime found its way into creams and elixirs in South America, a trend that was soon picked up by the beauty-forward Korean market before it reached the mainstream US market about five years ago. Snail mucin contains a potent combination of nutrients — all known beauty enhancers — that do everything from fade dark spots and scars to plump creases and battle acne.

By Abby Deering

High-end cosmetic companies, such as RéVive and Peter Thomas Roth, have released new products containing snail extracts, and spas and doctors’ offices in the US are starting to feature facials with the mollusk secretion as well (more palatable versions of the live snail facials gaining popularity in Korea and Japan). In New York City, Park Avenue plastic surgeon Dr. Matthew Schulman offers The EscarGlow Facial® that repairs the skin and stimulates collagen and elastin production. This $300 treatment combines concentrated extracts of the snail slime with microneedling to increase the product’s penetration.

24-karat Gold Facial

They may be all the rage now, but 24-karat gold facial products have been used for cosmetic purposes since ancient times in India, China, the Far East, and beyond. In Egypt, for example, it is believed that Cleopatra used a gold mask every night to enhance her complexion and keep her skin youthful, glowing, and beautiful. This precious metal, known to improve blood circulation, aids in maintaining the skin’s moisture level. When applied, small particles of ELYSIAN

gold are absorbed, transmitting a rich glow and leaving the skin healthy, fresh and radiant. In addition, gold facials are also known to reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots; stimulate skin cells and promote elasticity; prevent premature aging of the skin; slow down collagen depletion; and treat sun damage, skin allergies, and inflammation. Georgetown Allure, a new spa in the DC-metro area, offers the “GT Gold 24K Facial,” which uses 24-karat gold flakes in an anti-aging, collagenboosting serum which is applied and allowed to sit for five to ten minutes, before it is removed using a tissue-wrapped magnet. There are also several 24k gold-infused masks available for at-home use, ranging from the Peter Thomas Roth 24K Gold Mask ($80) to the Adore Cosmetics Golden Touch Magnetic Facial Mask ($1,000).

Geisha Facial

In Egypt, for example, it is believed that Cleopatra used a gold mask every night to enhance her complexion and keep her skin youthful, glowing, & beautiful.

Geisha facials are also known as the Nightingale facials. Why? Because the key, active ingredient in these facials is uguisu no fun — powdered nightingale droppings. The nitrogen-rich natural enzymes and guanine found in these droppings help brighten, heal, and retexturize skin, all while imparting a pearly luster to the skin. The nightingales are fed on a special diet of seeds and berries, making their droppings organic and vegan as well. The origins of this treatment traces back to 17thcentury Japan. Geisha women, educated and skilled in music, dance, and poetry, were known for their beautiful porcelain skin. However, the face powder they used to achieve their pale, unblemished complexions contained zinc and lead, which caused chronic skincare problems. That was, until the discovery of a natural remedy: nightingale dropping facials. Celebrity master-aesthetician Shizuka Bernstein is credited with reviving this ancient beauty secret and creating the Geisha Facial®, offered at her Shizuka New York Day Spa in Midtown Manhattan for $180. In addition to the droppings, which are sanitized by ultra-violet light before being milled into a fine powder, the Geisha Facial® also incorporates natural Japanese ingredients, such as green tea, sake, rice bran, and pearl protein, to brighten and cleanse the skin. 84

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Vampire Facelift & Facial

Vampire facelifts and facials are known — in less shocking terms — as Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) therapies. Both use the patient’s own blood (usually one ounce, extracted from the arm) to rejuvenate the face; growth factors already present in the blood stimulate collagen and replace volume and can be used in conjunction with dermal fillers to enhance the results of the procedure. The Vampire Facelift® typically refers to deep, or under-the-skin, injections of PRP, which work at the stem cell level, telling the body to grow new, younger skin. This offers a way of both restoring shape and improving tone and texture. The Vampire Facial® usually refers to a topical application which, in many cases, begins with micro-needling after which the PRP is applied topically and absorbed deeply into the skin. The cost of these treatments ranges from $100 $2,500 with an average cost of $1,100.

Fractionated CO² Laser Treatment

Fractionated CO2 laser treatments are being hailed as the future of facial cosmetic surgery. Unlike the older traditional CO2 lasers, which removed about 0.3mm of the entire skin surface and took much longer to heal (leading to increased risk of infection, post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation and scarring), this newer treatment can remove skin at deeper levels while leaving a fraction of the surface skin to help heal the treated area much quicker. Best of all, in most cases, only one treatment is necessary. This new generation of high-powered resurfacing treatments targets sun-damaged skin, fi ne wrinkles, blotchiness, age spots, and scars from acne or other causes. Its effects are similar to those of chemical peels and dermabrasion, except that the laser removes skin layers by vaporization rather than with chemicals or a sanding device. Fractionated CO2 lasers work by delivering customized levels of heat deep below the skin’s surface, removing the damaged outer layer. This stimulates collagen production and new skin cells in the underlying layers, bringing about a smoother, younger and healthier-looking appearance. There are three modalities for this treatment: “focused” for cutting skin without bleeding, “defocused” for superficially removing skin, and “ultra-pulsed” for facial resurfacing. The downtime is only about five days, but it is necessary to be vigilant about sun protection after the procedure so that damage does not recur. Full face treatments range from $1,500 to $3,000.

ELYSIAN

[ B E AU T Y ] amy zimmer

KEEPING AN EYE ON AGING By Amy Zimmer I think we can all relate. The first thing that starts to age with our eyes is blurred vision, and off we go to the ophthalmologist. Once we get the vision problem corrected, reality becomes clear: the sagging eyelid, the under-eye puffiness, the loss of collagen on the inner corners causing dark shadows. Take a deep breath for a moment, and don’t call your ophthalmologist in a panic thinking you have the wrong strength prescription for your new glasses or contact lenses. This is the time to do your homework on a boardcertified plastic surgeon and find the least invasive technique to help smooth out the fine details you are seeing. Obviously, every patient has different needs. For me, I was dealing with under-eye puffiness and crepey skin that I could not correct with expensive creams or make-up concealers. In fact, make-up only made it worse. I found myself being overly aware of the “tired” look I had when traveling, even though I had gotten a good night’s rest. The mirrored elevator rides in the morning became an eye-opening experience, and the “smooth tool” became my favorite friend. I reached out to a trusted local plastic surgeon, Dr. Shawn Birchenough, and booked a consultation. I was super clear that I did not want to risk anything to change the shape of my eyes. I inherited my grandmother’s “cat eye” and my mother’s high eyebrow, which works to my advantage. We have all seen photos of celebrities who have had their eyes done and look totally different afterward because of a subtle reshaping.

“After my laser treatment, I don’t need a GSRGIEPIV ER] QSVI ERH ÁRH XLEX E XMRXIH moisturizer with SPF 45 is all I need.” Dr. Birchenough made a few suggestions, and we decided to do an undereye laser treatment with the use of minimal fillers and botox. I personally prefer a more conservative approach, but as I stated earlier, each person's needs will vary. The whole process lasted less than 30 minutes with very little discomfort. The laser feels like a hot zap that dissipates very quickly. You need to allow yourself two or three days at home, or you can wear dark sunglasses if you need to go out into public or the sun. I had some swelling and bruising with very little discomfort. The use of a safe eye cream with SPF is highly recommended to keep any further skin damage in the future. After my laser treatment, I don’t need a concealer any more and find that a tinted moisturizer with SPF 45 is all I need. As we age, keeping makeup light is the key to a fresh face. An overnight flight to Europe with a six-hour time change, only to wake up looking refreshed on day one of my holiday, was my confirmation this procedure was just what the doctor called for.

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salt of the Earth By Abby Deering

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(Credit: Bulls Bay Saltworks)

Teresa Gooden, owner-operator of Bulls Bay Saltworks, explains that throughout the Civil War, salt was produced along the coast of South Carolina as small brigades, who needed salt in their diets, resorted to boiling sea water to provide for their units. “There was actually salt being made in McClellanville. I find that to be really fascinating,” remarks Gooden, whose saltworks company operates from McClellanville, South Carolina, a charming coastal fishing town just north of Charleston. Gooden, driven by discovering methods of living and production that are self-sustaining and environmentally friendly, has always been curious about finding the old-fashioned ways of doing things. It’s interesting then, that it wasn’t this tidbit of McClellanville salt-making history that inspired her to create Bulls Bay Saltworks — that’s just a it was a hog roast.

BULLS BAY SALTWORKS “You can smell the honey and star anise and all these spices that are inside the barrels.”

The team collects gallons of water, which they bring back to the company headquarters in McClellanville. The water gets pumped into greenhouses where it is solar evaporated, and the sustainable salt-making process begins. Their signature sea salt is the Carolina Flake Sea Salt. It’s the most popular with home and professional chefs. The flakes are really distinct, with a clean taste, making it the perfect finishing salt.

They take that same salt to make what is probably their most unique product, the Bourbon Barrel Smoked Carolina Flake Salt. The barrels they use to smoke the salt come from the Willet Distillery. Gooden buys these barrels from Buttermilk, a local Charleston company specializing in cocktail mixes, who use the barrels to age their old-fashion cocktail mix by filling them with a variety of fresh spices. “You can smell the honey and star anise and all these spices that are inside Teresa Gooden, owner-operator of Bulls Bay Saltworks the barrels,” Gooden says. Gooden and her team happy accident. Instead, open up the barrels, take them apart, chop them up, and then smoke the barrel parts with the salt for about 26 to 30 hours.

New to the area, Gooden wanted to get the community together for a potluck-style dinner.

After 12 hours, the salt itself smoked, and this salt was put out on the tables. People took it by the spoonfuls and wanted to know if she would be making more and if they could buy some. It wasn’t long after that Bulls Bay Saltworks was born.

Gooden, who loves to collaborate with other businesses, mentions that Buttermilk uses one of her salts in their charred grapefruit tonic. Several local breweries also use Bulls Bay Saltworks salts as does new start up Lowcountry Kettle Chips. Recently, Gooden worked with friends from local business Red Clay Hot Sauce to make her red mash salt. The Charleston-based hot sauce company makes a pepper mash using fresno peppers, ages it in barrels, and when they press the liquid out, the pepper mash is leftover as a byproduct that Gooden purchases, dehydrates and blends with their salt. “It’s a little bit spicy,” she says, “but not super intense, and has a really nice long finish.” And there are probably a dozen more collaborations, Gooden says.

Bulls Bay is just five miles from where Gooden and her team do all their processing. They go to the shoreline of the bay at the King Tide when all of the salt that’s been left on the spartina grass and the marsh gets redissolved into the bay, further raising the salinity of the water.

Bulls Bay Saltworks are currently distributing their products to restaurants within a 140-mile radius of Charleston and shipping to stores in 26 states. They are selling everything as fast as they can make it, a good problem to have, so it’s little wonder Gooden and her team are looking to expand.

To get started, she and her partner collected seawater from nearby Bulls Bay to brine the hog. They boiled down the remaining seawater, producing a few cupfuls of salt, which they sprinkled on to the hog as it smoked.

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Bitterman with a salt producer in Guatemala. (Credit: Mark Bitterman)

Mark Bitterman is the authority on all things salt. He has written several books on the subject, and he famously coined the term selmellier to describe someone who “provides expertise and resources to help bring the most flavorful food to the eater.” Along with his wife Jennifer, Bitterman operates The Meadow, an online and retail store with locations in Portland, Oregon and New York City that specializes in salt, chocolate, cocktail ingredients, and, as Bitterman says, “the kinds of ingredients that we often haven't even payed attention to in our past but are really a gateway to a deeper understanding of food and nature and tradition.”

MARK BITTERMAN “Salt really has a purpose solely to enhance and ennoble food, so you need to always understand its relationship to it.”

Bitterman chatted with ELYSIAN about his discovery of salt and his life-long devotion to the mineral.

ELECTROSTATIC EPIPHANY In the 1980s, on a motorcycle trip across Europe, Bitterman stopped in at a roadside relais (the French equivalent of an American truckstop) for a bite to eat. He ordered a steak that arrived at his table with “coarse, glistening crystals of opalescent salt” resting in its juices. “I bit and got a minerally, beautiful, oceanic crunch of flavor that illuminated and penetrated the juicy fat flavors of the steak,” Bitterman says. “It was so much more alive and vibrant that anything I had had before.” Turns out, the salt-maker, living in Guerande on the western coast of France, was the brother of the relais owner. Bitterman immediately set off to find him, and when he did, Bitterman discovered that he was making salt on the foundation of a saltworks established in medieval times, which in turn was based on the foundation of a Roman saltworks from some 800 years before that, and that in turn was founded on a celtic saltworks from prehistoric times. 90

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“That discovery and the idea of being able to take a bite of steak and have your soul basically transported out of your body, based on the intensity and craziness of the experience — that crystal telescoping all the way back through time to the earliest days of civilization and even pre-civilization — was an incredible revelation,” Bitterman says. Like everyone else, Bitterman grew up with salt “being this chemical white stuff that had no character, no soul, no tradition. It came from nowhere and had nothing to say for itself. But that’s not the way salt always was.” Salt, as Bitterman soon discovered, is connected to the earth, our history and our bodies.

BEING A SELMELLIER Bitterman explains that a selmellier is to salt what a sommelier is to wine; however, salt is a little bit different to wine. “Yes, wine is there to go along with the food, but frankly, in many peoples’ worlds, wine rivals food, and you can enjoy wine in its own right. Salt? Not so much,” Bitterman says. “Salt really has a purpose solely to enhance and ennoble food, so you need to always understand its relationship to it.” There’s an infinite amount of variety — tens of thousands of salts — so a selmellier needs to understand how to apply a structure that “gives you and the people you’re supporting something actionable, something intelligible to work with.” Enter Bitterman, who created a salt taxonomy geared around the behavioral properties of salt, including their behavior on foods. Salt is a natural ingredient — a natural food — that comes from various points of production around the world, Bitterman explains. “Every single salt has its own characteristic: its owns crystal, moisture and mineral properties. In addition,” he adds, “salt has its own story — its own connection to the world and to culinary history.”

THE HEALTH BENEFITS OF SALT Bitterman feels that salt gets a bad rap. “In my opinion, by and large, the antisalt campaign is politicized baloney,” he says. “The scientific legitimacy behind it has been very highly scrutinized and is extraordinarily questionable. On the contrary, there’s some good science showing that salt is not the culprit. “ Dozens and dozens of bodily functions are driven by salt. “It’s the only food that you need to survive,” Bitterman explains. It’s important for electrolyte levels, it’s what helps balance out and makes possible all the electrical activity inside the body, and it’s important for your digestive juices.

3,000 feet under the surface that is purer and higher in minerals. That water is brought into a greenhouse, sprayed onto bamboo mats, where it trickles down and evaporates until a concentrated brine is produced. That brine is then simmered off over an open fire. The result, Bitterman says “is an arctic blue-white salt that has a shimmering bittersweet flavor, exquisite on seafood and steamed vegetables and frankly, wherever you want a really fine powdery salt — popcorn maybe, or even potato chips.”

Instead of fretting over salt intake, Bitterman says there is science to support that our bodies are “way more sophisticated pieces of machinery.” He explains: “We have a biological set point. Our bodies say ‘get this much and we’re happy and not going to request more.’ The body is tremendously effective at eliminating sodium, so it’s not a challenge to auto-regulate.”

SALT PAIRING RECIPES Many of the recipes in Bitterman’s books are intended to showcase the foods we eat every day, but they illustrate a strategy for making your food taste way better by simply taking control of the salt. Bitterman shared a few of his favorite pairings with salt:

1. Fleur de Sel “Never buy salted butter again,” insists Bitterman. “It’s just another processed food.” Instead, Bitterman suggests buying unsalted butter, buttering your toast or bread, and then sprinkling fleur de sel on top. Bitterman explains: “Fleur de sel is your ideal finishing salt because it has these granular crystals, a little bit of moisture, and a little bit of minerals that gives you a nice little glittering, penetrating balanced saltiness without overpowering.”

2. Sel Gris Sel gris is a coarse, hardy grey salt from France. Put it on roast vegetables or chicken, and it gives you “this big minerally crunch of salt that then balances off the hearty rich full-flavored foods you’re eating,” Bitterman explains. For a roast chicken, Bitterman rubs the inside of the cavity with salt, roasts it, and then sprinkles sel gris on top. The salt on the inside of the cavity will help break down connective tissue, drawing in moisture and flavor. Sprinkling the coarse salt on the top gives “a minerally crunch of salt to go with the juicy chicken.”

3. Flake Salt When it comes to salad — from the Greek word salata for salted vegetables — don’t salt your dressing, Bitterman says. Instead, make the dressing with little or no salt, dress your salad, and then fling some flaky salt on top. “Unlike fleur de or sel gris, flaky salt crystals are parchment-thin and snappy and crispy — they don't crunch and bruise and compete with the salad; they actually accentuate the crispy freshness of it, “Bitterman explains. “They’re delicate and gorgeous, and they kind of perch in a lacework on the surface of the salad. When you bite, you get that nice, little electrostatic pop of salt, and then it disappears, and everything shines in between.”

4. Japanese Shinkai Deep Sea Salt aka Salt with Soul Japanese Shinkai Deep Sea Salt is an example of how salt production can be a process with honor and integrity. The salt is made by taking sea water from

SALT AT THE RITZ CARLTON At Salt, the restaurant at The Ritz Carlton on Amelia Island in Florida, Matt Griffin, the resort’s Salt Sommelier, works closely with Chef Rick Laughlin to select salt flavors to pair with courses, from an astonishing array of 45 salts. The pairing process considers taste, textures, aromas, and flavors. Each night, he presents a variety of salts table-side and explains the characteristics of flavors and how they bring out the flavors of Chef Rick’s creations. Griffin also infuses flavors into foundation salts, using herbs, fruits, wines and other ingredients to create new flavors. Two of the most popular flavors are Adriatic Citrus and a Mediterranean Black Garlic. Matt Griffin educates guests on salt’s role in history and holds a daily tasting experience in the newly opened Salt Shop. He also works with meeting groups on team building activities with competing teams creating infused salt recipes. Winning teams’ salt is used in the groups’ dinner, and everyone leaves with samples and salutary memories. ELYSIAN

The Art

Debra Baxter wearing pieces from her jewelry line DB/CB.

(Credit: Will Austin Photgraphy) willaustin.com

ELYSIAN

[ ART ] debra baxter

OFAWoman By Michelle Breeze

Sculptor Debra Baxter was born in Omaha, Nebraska, and raised in Lincoln, where she went to a small school that was, in her own words, “in the middle of nowhere.” Despite her artistic predilections early on in a mostly conservative town, she was not, as she puts it, “the freaky black sheep.” She was a little more conventional than that. Her childhood was fairly normal; her mother was a kindergarten teacher and quilt maker, and according to Baxter, “insanely creative and crafty,” and her physician dad was also a photographer. This craftiness clearly passed on to Baxter, who experimented early on with natural materials, including a crèche crafted from toothpicks and erected inside a nutshell. She laughingly said, “It’s probably my earliest piece. I think I was like 5. I have no idea how I got those toothpicks in that nut. I could never do that now. My hands must have been tiny.”

Devil Horn Crystal Brass Knuckles (Lefty)

Sterling Silver and Quartz Crystals. In the Collection of the Smithsonian

Baxter is an artist for one refreshingly honest reason. “If I didn’t make art, I would lose my mind.” And with that telling statement, you begin to understand the passion that drives this extraordinary woman. For her, making art is a selfish act. But art is also, in her estimation, what makes life culturally rich and infinitely stimulating. A sculptor for the last 20 years, she creates art with two distinct paths: one to be beautiful and one to send a message. And how does she unpack that message? “By demonstrating the juxtaposition of the power and vulnerability of being female.”

“A majority of my work, especially the jewelry, is to embolden women, make them feel stronger.”

Baxter believes that to impact the world, you must be vulnerable to it first. She illustrates this vulnerability in her Breastplate sculpture. Originally a lady’s Victorian shirt, the Breastplate sculpture and its ongoing series was a highnecked shirt that Baxter then turned into a piece of bronze she terms “lady armor.” With a nod to a time of great repression, the Victorian Era piece was designed to emit the power of women in its heaviness and metallic structure, without losing its feminine edge. But perhaps Baxter’s most famous piece, and the one that gives the biggest nod to her feminist spirit, is her Devil Horns Crystal Brass Knuckles, a piece in the permanent collection at the Smithsonian’s Renwick Gallery. Baxter’s Devil Horns are a mash-up between hip-hop and new-age – designed to hurt and to heal. The Smithsonian acquired the Knuckles in 2015, after they were showcased at the “Art and Healing” show at the Bellevue Arts Museum in Bellevue, Washington. Sculpted to represent the power of femininity, the Knuckles have made such an impact worldwide that a set of them was stolen out of a gallery in London. Baxter is currently in the process of creating a new and final set.

Untitled (open/end)

Alabaster, Quartz crystals, grandfather’s leather belt

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It’s taking something to the breaking point without actually breaking it.

It’s a process that changes with every sculpture. “How I work depends on the piece,” she says. “Rarely is a piece linear, and rarely do I see the whole thing in my head before it happens. Like when I was making the Brass Knuckles or the Breastplate. Turning fabric into metal was a complicated process and took many people to help me. But for the most part, I’m in my studio trying to put the puzzle together.”

Join Debra Baxter at the Form and Concept Museum in Santa Fe, New Mexico, for her solo show April 18 through June 17, where she will showcase 20 sculptures. To view more of Debra’s crystal bomb jewelry, go to dbcbjewelry.com.

It’s the puzzle that she loves. Recently, Baxter came back from vacation with an enormous cinderblock, broken, but perfectly symmetrical. She’s always looking for provocative rocks and minerals. She gets them into her big, airy studio and then stares at them. Plays with them. Then she looks around to see if she has another piece that would look good with her newly discovered cinderblock. She finds a really thick piece of glass. She sets the glass on top of the cinderblock, and it appears to levitate. To her, it’s like reverse gravity. It’s on a precipice, on the edge of going over, but it doesn’t. It’s taking something to the breaking point without actually breaking it.

Bottom right: Debra in her studio. Photo by Robin Dupuy

Top right: Bracing Air II, Bronze

Baxter sculpts mainly in bronze, a medium she’s been working with for many years. “I work with traditional materials – bronze, rock, concrete, glass – these are the things that attract me. Maybe because they are materials that will endure, and I love the idea of that endurance.” When Baxter started her career, women were not really working with heavy metals. It’s a very physical, intense labor – not “woman’s work.” But women like Baxter are changing that. “A majority of my work, especially the jewelry, is to embolden women, make them feel stronger. I make these big crystal necklaces, and women wear them when they’re doing something noteworthy. The necklace gives them confidence, calms them,” she says. “I firmly believe crystals have healing properties. And there’s a tremendous amount of evidence to support that the effect is real.” But actually, it’s Debra Baxter whose effect is real and affecting the world around her. Her most influential teacher once told her, “Let the material stand alone, and the piece will reveal its integrity in the end. Let the features be what they are. The beauty will tell the story and endure.” And it will. Much like Baxter’s art.

Inset right: : Smoky Quartz Cuff Opposite page: Bronze Breast Plate

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HUMAN TRAFFICKING IS:

ABUSE

* According to United Nations Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fund (UNICEF), over the past 30 years, over 30 million children have been sexually exploited through human trafficking.

Project 4 One ;Â&#x160;bv|v |o _;Ń´r 0ubm] -m ;m7 |o v;Â&#x160; vŃ´-Â&#x2C6;;uÂ&#x2039; 0Â&#x2039; =o1Â&#x2020;vbm] oÂ&#x2020;u ;@ou|v on raising money/awareness through community events, sponsorships, and law enforcement |o vÂ&#x2020;rrou| |_; u;Â&#x2C6;;mŕŚ&#x17E;omÄˇ uo|;1ŕŚ&#x17E;omÄˇ -m7 uov;1Â&#x2020;ŕŚ&#x17E;om o= oÂ&#x2020;u Â&#x2C6;b1ŕŚ&#x17E;lvÄˇ 0Â&#x2020;Â&#x2039;;uvÄˇ -m7 v;Ń´Ń´;uvÄş Ć&#x2018;Ć?Ć&#x2019;ÄşĆ&#x2022;Ć&#x2022;Ć&#x2018;ÄşĆ&#x201C;Ć&#x201C;Ć&#x2018;Ć? Ĺ&#x2021; PROJECT4ONE.COM Ĺ&#x2013;"_;Ń´Ń´;Â&#x2039;Äˇ oÂ&#x2020;bv;Äş Â&#x2020;l-m $u-L1hbm]â&#x20AC;Ť ŘŤâ&#x20AC;ŹŃ˛o0-Ń˛ ;uvr;1ŕ˘źÂ&#x2C6;;Ä¸ ;Â&#x2030; +ouhÄˇ +Äš -l0ub7]; &mbÂ&#x2C6;;uvb|Â&#x2039; u;vvÄˇ Ć&#x2018;Ć?Ć?Ć?Äş

HUMAN TRAFFICKING IS:

DECEIT

* Sex traffickers often recruit children because not only are children more unsuspecting and vulnerable than adults, but there is also a high market demand for young victims. Traffickers target victims on the telephone, on the Internet, through friends, at the mall, and in after-school programs.

[ ART ] dallas cowboy art collection

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SPORTS FANS AND ART AFICIONADOS ARE FINDING COMMON GROUND IN NORTH TEXAS WHERE THE WORLDS OF ART AND SPORTS HAVE BEEN BROUGHT TOGETHER IN GROUND-BREAKING FASHION.

SPORTS & ART: a match made in Dallas By Abby Deering

The Dallas Cowboys Art Collection is a world-class collection championing the most exciting established and emerging contemporary artists. Launched in 2009 with 14 commissioned artworks, today, the collection has grown to exhibit 79 artworks by 53 artists, with 18 falling under the category of site-specific commissions. The Dallas Cowboys Art Collection was conceived, launched, and funded by Cowboys owners Gene and Jerry Jones, but Gene is the true curatorial force behind the collection. “Gene is the backbone of our family,” Jerry says. “Her influence guides and inspires all of us.”

Franz Ackermann

Coming Home and (Meet Me) At the Waterfall (2009)

These works, on display at the AT&T Stadium in Arlington and at the franchise’s brand new, $1.5 billion, 91-acre complex at The Star in Frisco, represent an unparalleled undertaking and are part of the Jones family commitment to transforming the way the world experiences sports and entertainment.

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Crystalline Structure #2 (2013) by artist Alyson Shotz

“The Dallas Cowboys Art Collection brings this dialogue between art and sport into the modern day.”

To choose the works, Gene has assembled an art council that includes Michael Auping, Chief Curator of the Museum of Modern Art in Fort Worth; Charlie Wylie, former Lupe Murchison Curator of Contemporary Art at the Dallas Museum of Art; noted Dallas collectors Gayle Stoffel and Howard Rachofksy; Melissa Meeks, Director, Two by Two for Aids and Art (Meeks also happens to be Gene Jones’ niece) and Charlotte Anderson, Dallas Cowboys Executive Vice President (Jerry and Gene’s daughter). Mary Zlot of the art advisory firm Zlot Buell + Associates also provides counsel on the program. “The Dallas Cowboys Art Collection is an amazing joining of forces that has allowed literally millions of people the world over to experience contemporary art, something they might not come into contact with in their daily lives,” Wylie says. For the Jones family and their advisory art council, the link between the arts and sports is obvious. A curatorial statement for the collection reads: “Fans talk about games with great passion. Viewers talk about art with equal passion. Both sports and art bring together people from all walks of life to discuss what we cherish, in ways that stir our deepest beliefs and excite us to

Photos courtesy of the Dallas Cowboys Art Collection

share them. We define ourselves, as individuals and groups, by articulating in public what we value in private.” Gene adds, “The Dallas Cowboys Art Collection brings this dialogue between art and sport into the modern day. We’re making it possible for some of the world’s leading contemporary artists to create work on a scale unimaginable anywhere else, and we’re connecting new audiences with their work.” Some of the most beloved works in the collection include Ellsworth Kelly’s White Form, a white geometric form made of painted aluminum acquired for $2.3 million at a charity auction for amfAR, the Foundation for AIDS Research, and the Dallas Museum of Art; Sky Mirror, a massive reflective outdoor sculpture by British artist Anish Kapoor; Jenny Holzer’s For Cowboys, an LED light and sound work on the world’s largest center-hung video board; Olafur Eliasson’s Moving stars takes time, a contemplative indoor hanging sculptural installation; and Jim Campbell’s LED lightbulb commission Exploded View (Cowboys). Other artists whose work is represented in the collection include: Gary Simmons, Doug Aitken, Garth Weiser, Franz Ackermann, Alyson Shotz, and Teresita Fernandez, among others.

a fashion reminiscent of the collaboration and teamwork found on the field. It was created exclusively for The Cowboys by renowned artist Thomas Friedman, who sculpted the figures from disposable roasting pans and then cast them in stainless steel. The collection is still evolving as the Dallas Cowboys headquarters continues to settle into its new location at The Star in Frisco, Texas. Win! (2009) by artist Mel Bochner

The collection will continue to evolve as the Dallas Cowboys headquarters moves into its new location at The Star in Frisco, Texas. A central atrium in the complex features a 40-foot-tall light installation by Leo Villareal. This piece, titled Volume, is visible from the highway and contains 19,200 lights embedded in 160 metal rods. Additionally, installation was recently completed on Huddle, a large outdoor sculpture standing at the entrance to The Star. Huddle features nine oversize figures rising from the earth with heads touching and arms linked in 8YFWƴ JQI (2009) by artist Teresita Fernández

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human trafficking

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[ PHILANTHROPY ] make a difference

The Face of Human Trafficking. It's more familiar than you think. Human trafficking is a criminal trade driven by supply and demand that includes, but is not limited to, prostitution or commercial sex, child pornography, manufacturing, construction, agriculture, and domestic and hotel services. Human trafficking exists for multiple reasons, including the vulnerability of the people trafficked, the demand for services, and the ability of traffickers to make a high margin of profit compared to the low risk of apprehension. In order to solve the problem of human trafficking, we must change the conversation about trafficking, including calling it what it is: modern slavery.

By Michelle Breeze

In accordance with the 13th Amendment to the United States Constitution, slavery was abolished 150 years ago. But the fact remains that modern slavery is not only alive and well in the United States, but it is thriving worldwide. The Global Slavery Index estimates that nearly 46 million people in 167 countries are currently being trafficked, including 5.6 million children under the age of 18. Globally, human trafficking has generated $150 billion in illegal profits, making it the second largest international crime worldwide, just behind the international drug trade.

poor, abused, or in precarious living conditions. Traffickers are smart. They know that if they make promises of a better life, food, clothes, shelter, stability or employment, people will follow them. Once the trafficker dominates a person of interest, it’s nearly impossible to get away. Furthermore, victims find themselves in living conditions even more appalling than their previous lives. Many end up forced into life as a sex worker at a strip club, sold for commercial sex or into the labor trade as a domestic servant, farmer or factory worker for little or no pay. Some are smuggled into the country illegally, with a promise of the “American Dream,” and then forced into a debt bond trade where they can’t pay off the bond, and it’s passed onto family members. These people are unable to extract themselves because they either don’t realize the resources available to them, or they can’t find a viable opportunity where extraction can occur.

In the United States alone, human traffickers have enslaved 57,700 men, women and children in the sex, servitude, or labor trades. Many people assume that human trafficking is just sex trafficking, but its footprint is far more reaching than just commercial sex. By The Global definition, human trafficking is the enslavement of humans Slavery Index (by exchange or exploitation) who are then forced into one estimates of many services: the commercial sex trade, involuntary labor, child soldiering, indentured servitude, domestic service, that nearly or debt bondage. In the United States, the most vulnerable 46 million people in our society, – women, children, LGBTQ persons, and in 167 countries undocumented migrant workers, – are purchased, sold, are currently smuggled, and forced to live as slaves. They are often beaten or GJNSL YWFKƴHPJI starved to coerce them to perform services for little or no pay. NSHQZINSL

Trapping Victims is Easier Than You Think Human trafficking does not discriminate. Anyone of any race, color, gender, sexual orientation, or citizenship can be a victim, but it’s typically women and men who are vulnerable,

5.6 million HMNQIWJS ZSIJW the age of 18.

Trafficking is a Family Business Many traffickers have been working in the human trafficking business for generations, exploiting family members, or working as part of a syndicate where they run victims in conjunction with a bigger crime ring. You don’t need chains to enslave people. Psychological abuse or torture works just as well to exploit and capitalize on a person’s weakness. Traffickers often threaten their victims with harm to them or a family member, or with arrest, deportation, shame or financial devastation. Traffickers also use drugs as a vehicle to control their victims, creating memory gaps, mistrust, terror, and the inability to comprehend their circumstances before, during, and after the abuse. ELYSIAN

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It comes down to supply and demand; the more consumers willing to pay for sex, the more sex will be available, and as a result, the more the subversive, seedy side of America and YMJ \TWQI \NQQ HTSYNSZJ YT Ƶ TZWNXM

Modern slavery has penetrated cities across America, including yours. In 2016, US Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) arrested nearly 2,000 traffickers across the nation and were able to identify 400 victims. If you think that your town can’t be a hub for trafficking, it likely already is. Traffickers are scouting major sporting events, concerts, and festivals and then hosting sex parties, finding and preying on men that are willing to pay for sex with strangers. They are filling vans with women outside of bars, inviting men to indulge on the way out. They are kidnapping and selling underage girls at parties who are then drugged, beaten, raped and left to die. People are willing to pay for it. It comes down to supply and demand; the more consumers willing to pay for sex, the more sex will be available, and as a result, the subversive, seedy side of America will continue to flourish.

Lack of Infrastructure Perpetuates the Problem It’s only within the last few years that the U.S. government has begun to understand the scope of the human trafficking dilemma. And while knowledge is growing about this crime and how to identify and prosecute it, human trafficking is still widely underreported because it exists in the dark, covert underbelly of America, inhibiting awareness for law enforcement officials, government, and first responders. But there is some progress. With the enactment of the Trafficking Victims Protection Act (TVPA) in 2000, and its subsequent revisions over the last several In 2016, years, there are more benefits, services, U.S Immigration and criminal consequences now attached and Customs to the act of involuntary servitude and slavery. However, the United States, the Enforcement (ICE) arrested nearly United Nations and the world at large must continue to make a global effort if YWFKƴ HPJWX we are to make any significant inroads across the US into halting the tide of trafficking. and were able

to identify 400 victims. .K ^TZ YMNSP that your town can’t be a hub KTW YWFKƴ HPNSL NY QNPJQ^ FQWJFI^ NX

Reducing the Slavery Footprint There is hope. The U.S. government, the United Nations, other international organizations, and ordinary citizens can, and are, reducing the incidence of human trafficking worldwide. There are multiple campaigns encouraging people, mainly men, to stop participating in the commercial sex industry. There are public service campaigns educating and encouraging ordinary citizens to report any indication of trafficking. Beyond that, buying fair trade and survivor-made products, as well as learning to recognize the signs of trafficking, help in the reduction of this pervasive criminal activity. A community effort is fundamental in helping service providers, criminal prosecutors, and law enforcement reduce the demand for sex and labor trafficking. Modern slavery is a global issue that can only be resolved with global cooperation. To learn more about how you can recognize the signs of human trafficking, donate money to a reputable agency or organization, or volunteer to help, visit www.freedomnetworkusa.org.

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(SQIWXMG ZMSPIRGI MW GSRWMHIVIH E JSVQ SJ XVEJÁ GOMRK ;SQIR [LS JIIP trapped in a relationship where they are beaten, abused or held against XLIMV [MPP EVI RS[ GSRWMHIVIH LYQER XVEJÁ GOMRK ZMGXMQW 1ER] [SQIR never leave their abusers. Instead, they conduct their daily lives, take the kids to school, work outside the home, and stay with their abuser. Why? 8LIMV EFYWIV SJXIR E LYWFERH SV FS]JVMIRH WE]W µ-J ]SY PIEZI - [MPP Á RH you. I will bring you back. I will harm you or our children if you don’t do what I say.” If someone feels entrapped or experiences little freedom inside SV SYXWMHI XLI LSQI XLEX¸W XVEJÁ GOMRK 8LEX¸W IRWPEZIQIRX %RH MR QER] cases, prosecutors are now willing to prosecute based on this premise. SOURCES: ovc.ncjrs.gov/humantrafficking/publicawareness.html freedomnetworkusa.org/human-trafficking/ state.gov/documents/organization/263434.pdf state.gov/j/tip/rls/fs/2017/272003.htm dosomething.org/us/facts/11-facts-about-human-trafficking humantraffickinghotline.org/states fbi.gov/investigate/civil-rights/human-trafficking freedomunited.org/freedom-university/what-is-modern-slavery/ globalslaveryindex.org stophumantrafficking.org/ ice.gov/news/releases/ice-arrests-nearly-2000-human-traffickers-2016-identifies-over-400victims-across-us

Special thanks to Carol Wick, a principal at Convergent Nonprofit Solutions, for her invaluable insight into human trafficking, the challenges, possible solutions, as well as its relationship to domestic violence. 106

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Think Deeply. Lead Resolutely. Believe Faithfully.

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Set them Free By Karen Smith

It has been 152 years since President Lincoln brought an end to slavery in America, setting free more than three million souls. It is agonizing to consider the treatment they endured, and yet there are places in the world where acute poverty and corrupt governance allow the inhumanity of slavery to persist to this very day. As you are reading this, thousands of children in Southeast India are descending into rock quarries where they work long hours each day. They live in slave colonies, dress in rags and subsist on meager scraps. Physical torture and sexual assault are rampant. Children who are seriously injured while harvesting stones are left without access to medical care, and for them, death is the only way out of a life of untold degradation.

So how can it be that India, the world’s largest democracy, with the sixth largest GDP, allows quarry owners to hold children as indentured servants with impunity? Although slavery was abolished on Indian soil in 1843, it is critical to note that the existence of a law and the enforcement it are two separate matters. India’s rock quarries have been a huge industry for decades, and its owners operate like a mafia. They have local law enforcement on their payrolls, and they coerce anyone who questions them. One day in 2007, a young pastor stopped by some quarries in response to reports he had been receiving about neglected children being held there as slaves. What he saw, and his subsequent response to it, has changed the direction of more than 14,000 lives to date and gave the abolitionist movement in India the powerful voice it needed. To protect the identity of the young pastor--who routinely receives death threats from quarry owners--we’re going to refer to him as “Mr. C.” Tall and handsome, with kind almond eyes and shiny black hair, Mr. C graduated at the top of his class in seminary school and is a thirdgeneration Christian minister who leads a network of about 7,000 village pastors throughout India. It was through this network that reports of children in quarries first began to surface. “When I saw the kids working inside the quarries and also the girls who didn’t have proper clothes, I cried,” recalled Mr. C. “I decided to go inside the quarries to help build relationships with the kids and to share the gospel, to feed them with what I have in my hands, and also to give them used clothes from the churches.” At first the quarry owners welcomed Mr. C’s assistance, because the food rations he provided saved them the trouble of feeding the children themselves. But in 2012, India’s enforcement policies began to shift, and numerous quarries were forced to close (government officials starting enforcing slave labor laws, which forced quarry owner to release children). Thousands of children were freed from bondage, and Mr. C and his team of pastors did their best to provide homes for as many as possible. (Thousands were reunited with families, Mr C and pastors housed children with nowhere to go). Mr. C’s efforts started to get international attention through social media, and when an American couple named David and Marcy Moorhead learned about Mr. C on Facebook, they were compelled to take immediate action. They teamed up with finance expert Henry Van Dyke and founded the Set Free Alliance. Through rigorous fundraising, the group has raised $10 million in the past five years, enabling them to provide for the basic needs of Mr. C’s burgeoning family of 1,600 (over 6,000) children.

(Credit: Set Free Alliance)

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HUMAN TRAFFICKING IS:

SLAVERY

*An estimated 30,000 victims of sex trafficking die each year from abuse, disease, torture, and neglect. Eighty percent of those sold into sexual slavery are under 24, and some are as young as six years old.

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[ T R AV E L ] explore the world

ALL ABOARD! Traveling to a new place is thrilling, but the thought of getting there can inspire dread. Modern-day travel with its emphasis on expediency â&#x20AC;&#x201D; of getting from point A to point B â&#x20AC;&#x201D; can all seem frightfully quotidien.

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Luckily, a resurgence in luxury train excursions is allowing travelers to step back in time, stirring a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era — the halcyon days when a journey by rail was the epitome of sophistication, international glamor, and a sense of adventure. Replete with opulent surroundings and impeccable service, these train services combine the golden age of rail travel with modern conveniences, breathing life into the dusty old cliche: it’s about the journey, not the destination. The following list of luxury train excursions found around the world proves that it’s not just about getting somewhere; it’s about getting there in style.

[ PE RU ] The Belmond Andean Explorer, South America's first luxury sleeper train, weaves its way through the snow-capped Peruvian Andes, offering breathtaking views of Cusco, Lake Titicaca, and Arequipa. Traveling along one of the highest routes on the planet, this grand locomotive climbs to an astonishing 14,000 feet. (Guest cabins offer in-built oxygen “for additional comfort at high altitudes.”) The one- and two-night itineraries allow for daily pit stops to explore local towns, natural wonders, and mythic ancient kingdoms. The Andean Explorer features an observation car, a lounge, and two dining cars where passengers can enjoy refined Andean cuisine — alpaca tortellini, anyone? A spa car is also set to open in March 2018. Peruvian accents and furnishings connect the chic interior with its surroundings in the form of bright textiles, hand-woven fabrics, and plush alpaca wool. The Royal Scotsman steams along the Scottish countryside. (Credit: Belmond)

Top: An old-world sense of decorum and civility is par for the course onboard luxury rail services. (Credit: Belmond)

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[ SCOTL A ND ] As guests board the Belmond Royal Scotsman, they are greeted by a kilted bagpipe player and a flute of champagne (unless, of course, a single-malt is preferred). The United Kingdom’s only luxury sleeper train, the Belmond Royal Scotsman can accommodate 36 guests and traverses the ever-changing, dramatic Scottish landscape of the highlands, lowland, and coastlines. The elegant, Edwardian-style interior has a “country house” feel with cars that are mahogany-clad and furnished with tweed and soft Highland wool. Following dinner, nightly frivolity ensues as Gaelic clansmen regale guests with tales of yore and local musicians play. Specialized itineraries include The Scottish Golf Tour, The Whisky Journey, and The Grand Tour of Great Britain.

[ C ON T I N E N TA L EU ROPE ] The Venice-Simplon Orient Express represents the quintessential “old-world elegance” experience as it recreates the original Orient Express journey from Paris to Istanbul. The impeccably restored 1920s-vintage cars are some of the most storied carriages in the world. Art Deco interiors are inspired by Paris, Venice, and Istanbul, and in one of the dining cars, guests can marvel at the famous art-nouveau glass carvings of Rene Lalique.

The futuristic interior of Japan’s latest “cruiser train” the Shiki-Shima. Photo Courtesy: JR East

[ J A PA N ] Japan is undoubtedly the global leader in train technology, and in recent years the tech-savvy nation has witnessed the rollout of several state-of the-art sightseeing “cruise trains.” The latest to be unveiled is the Shiki-Shima. Unlike the other trains mentioned in this list, the Shiki-Shima will not transport passengers back in time; rather, it will catapult them into the future, and what it lacks in period features, it makes up for in hi-tech opulence. The train’s 17 private suites showcase Japanese craftsmanship with features such as working fireplaces and cypress wood baths. The most luxurious of the suites is two stories. Two gleaming-white observatory cars provide floor-toceiling panoramas, an ultra swanky, forest-inspired lounge boasts a piano bar, and the glamorous dining room is adorned with contemporary chandeliers. On the one- to-three-night itineraries, guests visit hot springs, shrines, and castles while taking in uninterrupted views of eastern Japan's forests, fields, and coastline. Because of the popularity of the new service, those who want a ticket to ride need to fill out an application, and the lucky few are then selected by lottery.

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The train’s 17 private suites showcase Japanese craftsmanship with features such as working ÁVITPEGIW ERH G]TVIWW [SSH FEXLW

The staff — including a first class pianist, Chef du Tran, and head waiter — are impeccably dressed in 1930s uniforms. Each carriage comes with its own attendant. On the first evening, Champagne in the Lounge Bar precedes dinner, where silver table service is de rigueur. Guests are “encouraged” to dress for dinner: men in black tie and ladies in evening attire of their own choice. The entire experience feels like something out of a Wes Anderson movie, and indeed, the great cinematic auteur has been a guest aboard the VSOE and gives his seal of approval.

&GT[J +TW YMJ WJƴSJI YWFNS YWF[JQJW GJNSL LWJJYJI \NYM F LQFXX TK GZGGQ^ NX XYFSIFWI UWFHYNHJ (Credit: Belmond) Below: The recently unveiled Grand Suites aboard the Venice-Simplon Orient Express feature private bathrooms with showers, double beds and a living area. (Credit: Belmond)

In between stops at local towns, natural wonders, and ancient mythic kingdoms, guests aboard the Andean Explorer take in views of the Peruvian landscape. Photo Courtesy: Belmond

The impeccably restored 1920s-vintage cars are some of the most storied carriages in the world.

[ I N DI A ]

[ A F R IC A ]

The Royal Rajasthan on Wheels is the upgraded version of the world-famous Palace on Wheels. Embarking from Delhi on a seven-night passage, guests stop at world heritage sites, including The Taj Mahal, and visit former royal kingdoms and vibrant bazaars.

“African safari meets Victorian opulence” is the best way to describe The Pride of Africa trains offered by Rovos Rail.

The interiors are a callback to the grandeur and opulence of the royal heritage of Rajasthan. The 14 luxury cabins are modeled on former palaces and decorated in hues of pearl, ruby, and sapphire. Guests take in views of India from large panoramic windows while reclining on divans, beds or as they enjoy dining at the multi-cuisine restaurants, sipping libations from the bar and indulging in state-of-the-art spa services.

Right: The Pride of Africa's lovingly-restored Pullman-style carriages harken back to a sense of 19th

The family-run Rovos Rail offers eight distinct routes throughout the African continent, with journeys including safaris, a trip to Victoria Falls, and a transcontinental excursion between Cape Town and Cairo. The Pullman-style carriages are finished in polished teak and decorated in the style of 1920s pre-war glamor. The Victorian-esque dining cars offer cuisine that takes advantage of local delicacies, such as game, and complements each course with a selection of South African wines.

century style and elegance. (Credit: Rovos Rail)

Below: Swarn Mahal, sumptuously decorated in hues of gold and crimson, is one of two dining cars offered onboard the Royal Rajasthan in India. (Credit: Royal Rajasthan on Wheels)

The refined and relaxed atmosphere is upheld with rules on guests’ comportment in the common carriages, where cell-phone and computer usage is restricted.

[ PR I VAT E T R A I N / C H A RT E R ] Owning your own private rail car (or cars) is perhaps the quintessence of luxury train travel. The majority of private owners are train buffs with very deep pockets who purchase defunct carriages and refurbish them. Amtrak provides the ability for rail car owners to have their privately owned cars attach to trains between specific locations in North America. If you can’t afford to purchase and maintain your own private rail cars — which are often referred to as “yachts on rails” — several of these are available for private charter. ELYSIAN

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[ EQUESTRIAN ] living well

“Fernanda Kellogg has had an enormous impact on the sport and we are genuinely lucky to have someone of her caliber, vision and passion in our sport.” ~ ROB BURK, CEO OF THE AMERICAN EVENTING ASSOCIATION

Fernanda Kellogg competing in the Tryon International Equestrian Championship. (Credit: Josh Norris)

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THE EQUESTRIAN WORLD’S LEADING LADY:

FernandaKellogg By Rebecca Carr

Fernanda Kellogg was the oldest competitor at the Tryon International Equestrian Center on this day, navigating its new and challenging cross country course on her 16.2-hand bay mare, Attlee. The footing was slick after two days of heavy rains, the remains of Hurricane Harvey as it wandered east over the Carolinas from Houston, but Fernanda sailed over the jumps at a hearty gallop. She guided Attlee over a grassy bank into a pool of water; then a few strides later, she leaped out of the water and over a fence to face a gauntlet of more jumps, jumps as wide as 4-feet11 inches, some built to look like miniature houses and coops that one might find on a rolling countryside. Not many 71-year-old women compete in threeday events, much less make it to the U.S. Eventing Association’s annual championship, an event that drew a record-breaking 755 horses this year to face a triathlon of equestrian competitions. Eventing requires riders to steer their mounts through a series of prescribed classical movements called dressage and then race around a cross-country course. The finale is a competition to beat the clock over stadium jumps. Over the years, Fernanda has had brilliant rides, commanding spirited horses to victory at places like Madison Square Garden, Stable View Farm in South Carolina and to the hounds with the Millbrook Hunt in New York. From the outset, this day appeared to be another one of those rides, despite the rain and gusts of wind that made spectators huddle under ponchos. But just as she was about to head to a final stretch, Fernanda lost her balance and fell off Attlee. “Rider down,” the announcer said. A hushed silence fell over the crowd as a medic team raced to the scene and removed her on a stretcher. A few hours later, Fernanda, bruised and tired, was almost sanguine about her tumble and disqualification from the championship event, an event that she worked all year to qualify for by winning at three-day events around the country. “It is the nature of our sport. My horse was going wonderfully. She took

an extra big jump that unsettled me. Then we had the miscommunication and she went right, and I went left. Kaboom! Both my body and ego are suffering,” Fernanda gamely said. “It wasn’t the story book ending, but that is life.” Fernanda is a rare breed of equestrian, a multifaceted leading lady of the horse industry who is widely admired for supporting every aspect of the sport from competing to supporting riders at the level of the World Equestrian Games and the Olympics. “Fernanda Kellogg has had an enormous impact on the sport, and we are genuinely lucky to have someone of her caliber, vision and passion in our sport,” said Rob Burk, CEO of the American Eventing Association, the Virginia-based non-profit organization that oversees and educates the public about the sport. Fernanda competes in at least one three-day eventing competition each month and trains five to six horses a week when she is not out fox hunting. She also serves on the American Eventing Owners Task Force, which helps event riders pair up with top-level horses. But she is perhaps best known for hosting a horse trials series with her husband, Kirk Henckels, on their 150-acre farm in Millford, New York. The idea for the Fitch’s Corner Horse Trials was the brain child of Fernanda’s daughter, also named Fernanda, and her former barn manager, Eric Bull. Bull had just graduated from high school and was working for Fernanda while attending community college. The first year, the event drew about 60 horses, and it poured rain. Now celebrating its 25th anniversary, the event attracts more than 250 competitors from across the country and has become a major equestrian and social fixture on the international eventing circuit, featuring a dinner and dance, a market with 50-plus stores and a classic car show. “It was amazing that she even let us do it,” said Bull, describing how he and Fernanda’s daughter were teenagers at the time. Sure, Fernanda oversaw the event, but she largely gave Bull and her daughter the reins to control it, he said. Her belief in him is something that spurred Bull forward in his career. And there was also Mother Nature to thank.

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“We got lucky because we had an epic monsoon at the end of the day, so all of our errors were written off because the competitors just wanted to duck and run for cover. Had the sun stayed out, it might not have gotten off the ground,” said Bull, laughing. That was the first course that Bull ever designed and built. He had grown up around horses and competed, so he knew what the jumps should look like, but he had never built an actual course from scratch until that first horse trial. Today, Bull heads ETB Equine Construction based in Virginia, which builds cross-country courses and stadium jumps around the globe. He is widely considered a master of his profession, having built courses for the Pan American Games. Bull also has the contract to build the cross-country course for the World Equestrian Games next fall. “We all sort of need that one break, that one person who is smart enough, or foolish enough, to give you that break in life,” Bull said. “Fernanda was that person for me.” 4

Fernanda fell in love with horses as a young girl and has competed since her prep school days. First, she was at the Foxcroft School in Virginia and then at the Knox School in New York, where she was trained by Harry de Leyer, the legendary equestrian who had a gut feeling about a horse headed for slaughter, rescued him and transformed him into the show jumper sensation known as “Snowman.” (A recent film called Harry and the Snowman showcases their remarkable story.) “He made his students feel like they could jump the moon. He gave me courage to ride anything, and I carry that with me today,” Fernanda said. Under de Leyer’s training, Fernanda earned enough blue ribbons to enter the 1968 National Horse Show at Madison Square Garden — one of the nation’s most respected hunter/jumper shows. She won the Amateur Owner division on Rafiki, who was ranked third in the American Horse Show Association’s Horse of the Year awards. Riding kept her centered during her years at Bennett College. Riding was there too when she juggled being a single mom while working as senior vice president of public relations at Tiffany & Co. It was a busy, hectic time, but she found great solace in riding. “Not many people know this, but Fernanda has equestrian blood running in her veins,” said Boyd Martin, a fourstar eventer and member of the U.S. Olympic team. The two met in 2009 when Martin conducted a clinic at Fitch’s corner that has now become an annual event as ELYSIAN

“Fitch’s Corner Horse Trials is really the Rolex of lower level eventing,” Martin said. “You would not find a better competition between the jumps and the cocktail parties.” In addition to working with Boyd, Fernanda trains with his wife, the Grand Prix dressage rider Silva Martin, at Fernanda and Kirk’s winter abode, Fox Frolic Farm in Aiken. “So many people love horses, but Fernanda is a classy person who unselfishly tries to make the sport better for the equestrian community and goes beyond the call of duty to improve the sport,” Martin said. “She is the first to host a fundraiser and first to back a new horse. I am not sure where she gets her energy. She can host a dinner party and be on her horse at 6 a.m. She truly is a remarkable woman, a leading lady of the equestrian world.”

GROWING UP KELLOGG F

Fernanda was born into New York’s rarified inner social circle as the daughter of Francis L. Kellogg, an American diplomat during the Nixon and Ford administrations, and Fernanda Wanamaker Munn Kellogg, a descendant of the Wanamaker Department store fortune and founder of the Louwana Fund in New York, an organization that raised money for African wildlife.

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well. Fernanda helped organize a group of investors to purchase a horse for Boyd to ride in the 2012 Olympics in London and the 2014 World Equestrian Games in Normandy, where Boyd finished in the top ten.

And the best part, Boyd said, is that Fernanda would never let you know what she has accomplished. She does not wear her accomplishments on her sleeve. 4

THE MOST SPECTACULAR FALL OF ALL F

Fernanda has had other falls over the years. But perhaps the most noted one came in 1997 when the Millbrook Hunt Club awarded her its Most Spectacular Fall trophy for falling in love with Kirk. As the story goes, Fernanda met Kirk, vice chair of the blue chip New York real estate firm Stribling & Associates, after he bought a farm down the road. They happened to be seated next to each other at a dinner party and found that they not only had a love of all things equine in common, but dogs, highpowered careers and a love of nature. Their courtship included riding the countryside and picnic lunches by hidden lakes. (Kirk is quite an equestrian himself — not only does he foxhunt, but he was a champion in his youth in the Texas Western Pleasure division.) The pair have been happily married since 1998. They fox hunt together and travel to South America to go fishing, a joint passion. They frequently go to London to see Fernanda’s daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter. “Relax is not in her vocabulary,” said a bemused Kirk. “She does not sit on a beach very well, but we have a lot of fun together.” Kirk even proposed while they were riding. “He reached into his hunt jacket pocket and pulled out a ring,” Fernanda told the New York Times at the time. “But who knew it was so difficult to kiss on horseback?” A few days later, on their honeymoon in Idaho, Fernanda described her spectacular fall for Kirk to the newspaper: “He certainly knocked the wind out of me,” she said. “It happened over a period of time. It was not sudden, but it was the biggest fall I’ve ever taken.”

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[ EQUESTRIAN ] living well

“Basically, we have everything you could possibly want, and if we don’t have it, we will canvass the country looking for it YRXMP [I ÁRH MX ¶

(Credit: Josh Norris)

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HIDDEN GEM: THE FARM HOUSE

the Equestrian store where everyone Knows your Name By Rebecca Carr Three decades ago, Pat Lehner turned a tiny room in the back of her barn into a tack shop, selling leather bridles, halters and girths. Back then, customers would simply take what they needed and leave a note if she was not there.

it,” said Cothran, who has tapped her sister-in-law, Celine Lehner and her vast retail experience, to help manage the day-to-day operations because the business has grown so much.

Today, the Farm House is a multimillion-dollar business with one of the largest equestrian stores in the country, an exploding internet sales business and a mobile store that frequents the nation’s most elite horse shows, including Rolex in Lexington, the World Cup in Omaha and the Capital Challenge in Baltimore.

As the Farm House grows, the Lehner family is determined to stay true the store’s hometown roots. Here, stories are swapped like the horses they serve. A bulletin board offers pasture for rent, horses for sale or information about a pot luck to help someone down on their luck. When the local fox hunt’s barn burned to the ground, the Farm House was one of the first to offer to help raise money for the organization to rebuild the barn.

“I think my mother would be very proud to see how we have grown,” said Noreen Lehner Cothran, who took over the Farm House when her mother died in 2000. She now owns the store with her brother and sister. Despite the growing national presence of the Farm House, the place still feels very much like a general store out on a country road. A bell chimes when the front door opens. A team of staffers, nearly all of whom ride, greet customers — usually by name or with a question about one of their horses or dogs. Hope, the resident Jack Russell Terrier, saunters up expecting her pat. Inside the sprawling 7,000-square-foot store just outside Tryon, N.C., equestrians find top-of-the-line clothing and equipment. There are beautifully crafted shadbelly coats that look like they are right from a fox hunt on the set of the PBS series Downton Abbey. There are sleek jumper jackets from Tucci’s Ego 7 line and staffers trained to measure for custom Vogel boots or fit a plush leather boot from Ariat. The saddle section features Butet saddles that can cost upwards of $6,000 and soft leather bridles with faux diamonds on the nose band for those wanting a little bling. There are rows of crisp white show shirts from Essex as well as top-of-the line KEP and Samshield riding helmets. And there are unique items like sterling silver stock pins shaped like a crop and navy horse print welly boots from Joules. “Basically, we have everything you could possibly want, and if we don’t have it, we will canvass the country looking for it until we find

In the riding community, the Farm House is known for going above and beyond the call of duty. In one recent example, a mother discovered that her daughter had grown out of her riding jacket the evening before a show. She made one frantic call to the Farm House’s legendary staffer — Vicki Wood. The next morning, Wood arrived on the show grounds at 7 a.m., three hours before the store even opened, with five jackets for the young equestrian to try. “It’s just what we do,” said Wood, who has worked at the Farm House for the past 25 years, watching it evolve from its early days into the business it is today. “We always try to do what we can to provide the best possible service to our customers.” It is people like Vicki Wood and the rest of the staff that make the Farm House stand out, horse trainers say. “The staff is extremely friendly and accommodating, and I love the quality of the merchandise and the variety of what they offer,” said Jeanne Smith, owner of Clearview Farm, a hunter-jumper training facility based in Landrum, S.C. But it is not just a knowledgeable staff that keeps Smith and her riders coming back. “It’s the way the Farm House contributes to the equestrian community,” said Smith, noting that the Farm House helped start a local horse show series. “Tack stores like the Farm House are few and far between,” Smith said.

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