—Autumn/Winter 2014
01
Chapter 01.
our inspiration
“[Exhibits must] be vitalised by contributions expressive of the action, the experiences, the valour and the endurance of individuals.” Sir Martin Conway, first Director General of the Imperial War Museum
At Realm & Empire, a fresh new season begins with a new field trip to IWM (Imperial War Museums), the British museum that provides the incredible source of inspiration for our brand. With a journal in our back pocket, a camera to hand and a genuine enthusiasm for scouting out interesting pieces of the past, inspiration is sought and investigated sifting through archived garments, documents, artefacts and photographs, made accessible to us by IWM, as references for our next collection. It’s a unique collaboration that sees an archive of such overwhelming historical importance creatively interpreted by our own team into contemporary, stylish menswear collections. The authority of IWM ensures all Realm & Empire apparel is fundamentally inspired by real history and British heritage. Whilst only a small percentage of the IWM’s archive is on full view in the public museums, Realm & Empire has access to it all.
A six-floor atrium will feature a plethora of objects - from the Mark V tank and Sopwith Camel biplane to personal love letters, souvenirs from the front, photographs, art and film. Whilst redeveloped immersive spaces include a recreated trench complete with a soundscape that will evoke what daily life was life for the troops. When Sir Alfred Mond originally addressed the King on behalf of the museum committee in June 1920, he said the museum “[is] not a monument of military glory, but a record of toil and sacrifice”. We at Realm & Empire also see the IWM as a museum of the human qualities of purpose, practicality and steadfastness as well as the eccentricity and unique humour that has underpinned our country’s pas – and, more often than not, with the great sense of style and design from which are privileged and grateful to take inspiration for our own collections.
Initially, IWM was created to record and showcase display items as a record of everyone’s experiences and sacrifices – civilian and military. Some of those experiences paint a picture of everyday life in wartime; others give us a glimpse of something exceptional. This year, for the Centenary of the First World War, IWM launches a transformed IWM London. Drawing on their First World War collections, the richest and most comprehensive in the world, the new world-class new Galleries will present the story of the First World War – through the lives of those who experienced it on the front line and the home front.
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
02
03
COLOPHON
CONTENTS
Front Cover: Two British soldiers arrive at Victoria Station, London, loaded with kit at the start of a period of home leave during the First World War. © IWM (Q 30505).
DESIGN + ART DIRECTION
Lifestyle photography taken by kind permission at RAF Halton and IWM Duxford.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Design & Art Direction by Waste Studio, Nottingham.
Photographer: Damien Van Der Vlist Stylist: Atip W
IWM images used in the logbook are shown cropped. The originals can be seen at IWM.org.uk
TYPEFACES Page 14, (top): Painted in 1917 shortly after his arrival in France, the artist William Orpen is inspecting himself in the mirror wearing his military uniform. In a wonderfully revealing self-portrait, he sets out an artistic agenda of colour, pattern, light and texture and a social agenda of drink and sensuality that were to be fulfilled during his time in France. © IWM (ART 2380).
Headers: Signal, URW++ Foundry. Sub Headers & Quotes: Times New Roman, Monotype Foundry. Body Copy: Aaux Next, Positype Foundry
Page 14, (bottom): Painted in 1917. The interior of the artist William Orpen’s bedroom, with an unmade bed and personal belongings set around on the floor. These include the sheepskin gilet worn by Orpen in his self-portrait 'Ready to Start', a tin helmet, and artist's portfolio.© IWM (ART 2967).
Folios & Margain Notes: Avenir, Linotype GmbH Foundry. PRINT
Page 19, (top): Photographer of 16 Wing Photographic Section (RFC/ RAF) wearing leather flying coat and carrying a 'C' Type camera. © IWM (HU 97468).
Printed and bound in Great Britain by Mortons Print on 55 gsm Palm 100% recycled paper. (www.mortons.co.uk)
Page 19, (bottom): A sketch of two RAF biplanes flying over the deep gorge of the Wadi Baroda with a derailed train below© IWM (ART 4595).
96pp
Page 20: Churchill, cigar in mouth, gives his famous 'V' for victory sign during a visit to Bradford, 4 December 1942. © IWM (H 25966). .
Page 21: Two Cambridgeshire Regiment soldiers wearing sheepskin ‘bunnies’, Flixecourt, Winter 1915 © The Cambridgeshire Regiment Collection. Page 22: 1916. An Infantryman resting. © IWM (ART 1038).
Chapter 01
OUR INSPIRATION Chapter 02
Page 25: Taken from Blast 1st edition, June 1914. Page 27, (top): A sergeant of the Royal Flying Corps demonstrates a C type aerial reconnaissance camera fixed to the fuselage of a BE2c aircraft, 1916.© IWM (Q 33850). Page 27, (bottom): First World War. Vertical aerial reconnaissance of Ledeghem (upper left) and Moorseele (bottom right), west of Courtrai, Belgium, taken with a Wide-Angle ("WA" Type) aerial camera. © IWM (HU 91041). Page 41: First World War. Frank Hurley, one of two Australian official photographers to serve on the Western Front, puts the finishing touches to a giant enlargement of one of his controversial photomontages of the Western Front which formed part of an exhibition of Australian official war photographs at the Cartwright Hall, Bradford. The exhibition also featured a selection of Hurley's colour photographs taken on the Western Front and in Palestine, using the Paget Plate process. The colour images were projected alongside the giant enlargements © IWM (Q 28580).
(Pg 04)
THE BRAND Chapter 03
(Pg 07)
LONG LIVE THE VORTEX Chapter 04
(Pg 08)
MAKE IT BRITISH Chapter 05
(Pg 10)
THE LOOK: OFFICER Chapter 06
(Pg 12)
THE LOOK: TOMMY Chapter 07
Page 24: Taken from Blast 2nd edition, July 1915.
(Pg 01)
(Pg 15)
ARTISTS & RIFLES Chapter 08
(Pg 16)
LOG BOOK Chapter 09
(Pg 24)
THE VIEW FROM ABOVE Chapter 10
Back Cover: A rare air to air photograph showing a Royal Flying Corps BE.2C aircraft in flight over trench lines in the Grand Bois area. The aircraft has an aerial camera mounted on its starboard side below the pilot's cockpit. The BE.2C was an ideal photographic platform because of its stability in flight. However it was slow and unmaneouverable, rendering it vulnerable to German attack. At this time, British reconnaissance aircraft were accompanied by at least three fighters on missions over the Western Front and were also forced to carry out their missions at greater altitude.© IWM (Q 27633).
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
(Pg 26)
AW14 PHOTOSHOOT Chapter 11
(Pg 38)
AW14 COLLECTION
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
04
Chapter 02.
THE BRAND
“It is wonderful what great strides can be made when there is a resolute purpose behind them.” —Winston S Churchill, 7 May 1947
Welcome back to Realm & Empire for the launch of our Autumn Winter 2014 collection. For those joining us for the first time, we’ll start at the beginning. Realm & Empire was born out of a desire to create something new in a market saturated by suspect ‘heritage’ claims. At the centre of the brand’s creative development is an exclusive collaboration with Imperial War Museums (IWM). We wanted to develop something British-inspired that had genuine historical links and working with IWM we found an amazing resource of archive material that could provide the creative inspiration for the brand, just asking to be translated into contemporary apparel. This season, the Realm & Empire narrative has prospered significantly; marking another big step forward in terms of both the range of garments on offer and inspiration. For this collection, influence is pulled from the artists and social movements surrounding the First World War, which sees its centenary in 2014, including the contrasts in style and standing between officers and soldiers – a great story to tell. As thought-provoking as always, this is a genuinely British inspired range which continues to honour unique craft and design skills developed over many years. Enjoy the collection…
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0116/SWEAT
Chapter 03.
07 7
“Long live the Vortex” —Wyndham Lewis, Blast, 1914
The onset of the First World War prompted a remarkable shift in the art and literary arena. Suddenly, creative thinkers found themselves confronted with the huge responsibility of responding to the swirling chaos that was Britain in the early twentieth century. Amid it all, the Vorticists’ message was quite possibly, the loudest and most radical. Founded by Wyndham Lewis and Erza Pound, the avant-garde Vorticism movement was a bold act of defiance against outmoded Victorian values that they considered stifling to artistic energies. Possibly the best known item that the Vorticists produced is their 1914-15 literary journal Blast - a word that Lewis described as meaning “the blowing away of dead ideas and worn-out notions”. Full of vitality and energetic imagery, above all Blast stood for progression and modernity. Printed in striking, aggressive typography, the Vorticist Manifesto was a ferocious declaration of independence, sought to ‘blast’ away inherent British-isms from the middle class to the meek, interchangeable weather… and even the years “1837 to 1900”. Though the movement ended in 1915 shortly after it had begun, this season the Realm & Empire manifesto works to recharge some of that wild Vorticist energy, through typographical adventurousness and innovative visual design. Long Live the Vortex!
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Chapter 04.
08
09
Make it british
Part of the unique appeal of Realm & Empire is the charming patriotism that resides at the very heart of the brand, and our desire to pay tribute to the most admirable aspects of Britishness in everything that we do. We want to celebrate things like the indomitable British spirit and our sense of humour, our steadfastness and resolve, our individual style and willingness to express ourselves. Above all, our respect for quality craftsmanship, durability and manufacturing that sets apart the exceptional, from the ordinary. Which is why, across the Autumn Winter 2014 collection we’ve aimed to source and work with the very Best of British. We’re pleased to report that we have expanded on our AW13 British-made knitwear collection to include a selection of chunky crew necks, cardigans and accessories, all made from either British lambswool or merino wool, and manufactured right here in England: more specifically, the Midlands, a part of the country traditionally associated with knitwear production. In keeping with Realm & Empire’s passion for authentic heritage and dedicated craftsmanship, this season we have finished our Officer & Tommy looks with boots from Northamptonshire based shoemakers, Loake for a look that’s undoubtedly British, from head to toe.
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Chapter 05.
10
11
THE look OFFICER Whether they were in the mess or the trenches, the Officers of 1914 were expected to behave and dress like gentlemen. Unlike those issued to ordinary soldiers, officers’ uniforms were bespoke; handmade to fit by tailors, often on Savile Row, and made from the finest fabrics. Consequently, in creating the R&E officer look, our ambition was to create elegant, luxurious pieces, carefully crafted with quality finishing touches and admirable attention to detail. A highlight of this premium range is a timeless tweed topcoat, constructed from 100% British wool made locally in Huddersfield, and finished with R&E branded lining. Whilst, slim-leg trousers (inspired by traditional paddelaters) and the two tone club collar shirt enhance this smarter silhouette. Knitwear is made in UK from 100% Merino wool and comprises of intricate moss stitch crew necks and revere cardigans for a super polished look. The range is marked by an exclusive gold-threaded back neck label. Fix up, look sharp.
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Chapter 06.
12
13
THE look TOMMY By the early twentieth century Tommy Atkins or Tommy was the most universal nickname for an English Solider. Its origins are somewhat disputed but it is widely believed that the War Office chose it as a representative name in specimen forms of the soldier’s book, as early as 1815! A century later, in 1914, the Tommy look would have been defined by three things: practicality, necessity and survival. Staying true to those fundamental elements, we like to think the Realm & Empire modern Tommy infuses good, honest, sustainable workwear with contemporary design that highlights all of those glorious details you would expect to find on the togs of a Tommy! Just like the 1914 standard issue uniform, in this season’s collection you’ll find a hybrid of textures such as soft, vintage-feel jersey layered under chunky British wool knitwear. Jerseywear has been stone or acid washed for a laidback aesthetic, that’s a little rough around the edges. Look out for garments with integrated quilted lining and patchwork pockets for a true needs-must Tommy twist! British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Chapter 07.
14
015 15
Artist & RIFLES From 1914 to AW14, it is the art, new technology and social backdrop of the First World War that provides the key inspiration for this collection. At Realm & Empire we’ve uncovered stories from photographers, such as Frank Hurley, positioned on the frontline to document the battlefield and illustrations scribbled by the pilots of the Royal Flying Corps in the dawn of aerial photography. Experimenting with modernist typography and graphics, the Realm & Empire creative has been inspired by the work of the Vorticists – specifically, their literary journal Blast, with its progressive prose & striking imagery. Authentic photographs and drawings, insignia and all kinds of marvellous museum finds are honoured through interpretation across the range, with influences pulled from the contrast in style and standing between Officer and a Tommy. Combining history with Realm & Empire’s characteristic eye for style & details, this season we introduce stripes to the range – a common feature of military uniform used to indicate rank, we thought it was about time we added them to the mix! Keep a lookout for many more influences from the First World War across the range: including a selection of Britishmade knitwear and a fresh consignment of winter-warming accessories, all transformed in signature Realm & Empire style.
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product 08. Chapter Code: RE0116/SWEAT
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
25
Chapter 09.
THE view FROM ABOVE
On 19th August 1914, just a decade after the Wright Brothers first took to the air in 1903, the Royal Flying Corps undertook its first aerial reconnaissance mission over the Western Front. At this time, aircraft were unarmed – it was even said that British & German pilots would wave at each other when passing in the air. Needless to say, this soon changed. Cameras were mounted in aircraft to provide photographs of enemy positions, These photographs showed enemy defences and trenches, the location of artillery and were also invaluable for British wartime cartography. The cameras first used in aircraft were cumbersome and basic, using photographic plates that needed to be changed in the air. Later models used photographic film and became increasingly sophisticated. In March 1915, the British attack at the Battle of Neuve Chapelle was the first in history of warfare to be based on maps prepared solely by photographic reconnaissance. The RFC had carried out photography over the front to be attacked to a depth of 1,500 yards and maps were issued to all of the attacking units. This became common practice for British attacks on the Western Front. Aerial photography and reconnaissance was also vital in attempting to neutralise enemy artillery. As the importance of this became apparent, opposition aircraft were used to attempt to disrupt and destroy reconnaissance aircraft. This led the increasingly important role of the fighter aircraft, designed for air-to-air combat and to establish aerial superiority. As the war went on, bomber aircraft were also increasingly introduced. Aerial reconnaissance is still vital in modern conflict, proving yet again, just how significant those birds’ eye view shots were in the war from above.
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Chapter 10.
26
27
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
29
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
30
31
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
32
33
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
34
35
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product 11. Chapter Code: RE0116/SWEAT
38
AUTUMN WINTER 2014 collection
39
Product Code: RE0215/OUTERWEAR
OFFICER TRENCH COAT
Field Notes Inspiration straight from the trenches! In the First World War, the trench coat was developed as an alternative to the heavier serge greatcoats for Warrant Officers Class 1 the British Army. No other ranks were permitted to wear them, though we’re sure they would have wanted to! The Realm & Empire trench is a modern twist to the originals and is made from genuine British Millerain bonded cotton to protect from the rain and with stylish deep red jacquard shoulder liner and genuine horn buckle and buttons. The integral scarf holder is another neat touch.
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Colour Palette: BEIGE BLACK
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0214/OUTERWEAR
40
OFFICER Wool Topcoat
Field Notes Created in a Scottish Mill in 1805, the famous ¾ length wool coat quickly became a timeless, British classic, and was issued to all officers in the British Army & Royal Flying Corps during the First World War. The Realm & Empire Topcoat is exquisitely crafted from British Wool Tweed fabric manufactured in Huddersfield, England. A luxurious deep red jacquard print lining and real horn buttons complete the sharp tailoring to perfection for any gentleman’s winter wardrobe.
Colour Palette: BLACK
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
41
Product Code: RE0123/OUTERWEAR
PEACOAT
Field Notes The pea coat is an enduring and stylish classic believed to have been around since at least the 17th century. The name originates from the Dutch word for a pilot’s jacket pijjakker. Elegant, simple and practical, constructed from wool and doublebreasted for warmth with a large collar that can be pulled up to protect the face from inclement weather, it is the style of overcoat favoured by navies throughout history. Equally stylish and practical on land, Realm & Empire’s fully-lined pea coat is designed true to its classic naval origins, with a 100% wool-cavalry-twill-constructed tailored fit to create a sharp silhouette and impeccably observed details, including wooden buttons, chocolate leather badge and British Millerain wax under-collar and under-pocket-flap trims; an instant winter favourite.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0210/OUTERWEAR
42
Artisan Quilt Jacket
Field Notes An Autumn Winter re-boot to our Summer Artisan Jacket. Made from the same great herringbone cotton but with the addition of a military spec thermal in a subtle stripe quilted lining for great style with practical warmth.
Colour Palette: NAVY DARK OLIVE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
43
Product Code: RE0217/OUTERWEAR
Sapper Jacket
Field Notes Originally this jacket’s sole purpose was purely functional: to withstand wind and rain. However, our cottonbonded wind-runner is updated for today and adds superb style into the mix too. Featuring a comfortable elasticated hem, diagonal chest pockets and brilliantly bellowed pockets with additional side access – perfect for stashing your old tin of Wild Woodbine… or your Oyster card!
Colour Palette: NAVY RIFLE GREEN
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0216/OUTERWEAR
44
Field Jacket
Field Notes Inspiration for the field jacket is pulled from traditional khaki drill, and a must have for the everyday Tommy. This seasons coat has been garment dyed to give a relaxed, casual look and feel with four large utility pockets, funnel neck and hood, the design truly embraces its battlefield heritage.
Colour Palette: FUDGE RIFLE GREEN
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
45
Product Code: RE0218/OUTERWEAR
BIVVY JACKET
Field Notes In the First World War provisions were made to make uniforms as practical, comfortable and most importantly, as warm as possible – particularly in those icy winter months! Creating extra layers from wadding or scraps of fabric sent from home, the soldiers regularly adapted the standard issue garments to suit their purpose. Fortunately, for AW14, we’ve done the work for you and ingeniously added quilted fabric into the lining of our PU coated nylon Bivvy Jacket!
Colour Palette: CHARCOAL GREY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0247/OUTERWEAR
46
PARKA
Field Notes Snipers are the military’s high-precision marksmen, usually operating alone and specially trained in camouflage, field craft, infiltration, reconnaissance and observation. The word originates from soldiers in British India during the 1770s where huntsmen skilled enough to catch the elusive snipe bird were dubbed snipers; thereafter it came to be a word used to describe a particularly sharp shooter. Our precision-designed Parka is based on the shape and structure of a traditional military sniper’s jacket comes complete with a removable hood. A detachable quilted lining allows the wearer to adjust the warmth offered by this unique jacket, made from a coated 100% cotton twill and finished with chest-height hand-warmer pockets, drawstring waist, adjustable cuff fasteners and discreet leather R&E arm badge.
47
Product Code: RE0221/KNITWEAR
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Revere Cardigan
Field Notes Last Winters Classic Cardi has been given a brand new twist! Made in the UK and crafted from 100% Merino wool, this ‘Officer’ cardigan features an elegant revere collar, wooden logo buttons and 3 patch pockets. Team it with practically everything to shrug off that cold, autumnal breeze!
Colour Palette: BLACK
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
48
Product Code: RE0222/KNITWEAR
Moss Stich Crew
Field Notes Here’s a pared down Realm & Empire knitted crew neck, done to perfection for those who like to go about their business with subtle style. Carrying a discreet R&E triangular badge, this classic is made in the UK from 100% Merino wool, and knitted beautifully in moss-stitch.
49
Product Code: RE0223/KNITWEAR
Colour Palette: ECRU DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Duxford CardiGAN
Field Notes After some autumnal layering that offers something special? Here’s our ‘Duxford’ Cardigan. Inspired by a First World War period British Army standard issue cardigan we found in the archive at IWM Duxford. The original garment was for the use of non-commissioned ranks but our version, crafted from British Wool and made in England is available to all!
Colour Palette: LODEN GREEN
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0224/KNITWEAR
50
CABLE Crew
Field Notes Nothing beats a classic cable knit jumper for Autumn Winter. This one is a version of the ever present Army ‘woolly pully’ but with its own contemporary rib knit and cable front. Crafted from British Wool and made in England, it’s sure to keep you warm and draw many admiring glances!
Colour Palette: LODEN GREEN CHARCOAL GREY DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
51
Product Code: RE0211/SHIRTING
Club Collar Shirt
Field Notes Our Club Collar shirt is cut to perfection with a sharp-fitted silhouette and made from a fine 100% cotton Oxford fabric. With horseshoe shaped pocket detail and stylishly finished with horn effect R/E logo buttons the shirt as also cleverly designed to be worn tucked-in or left-out.
Colour Palette: DARK GREY LIGHT GREY NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
52
Product Code: RE0212/SHIRTING
Two-Tone Club Collar Shirt
Field Notes For the more adventurous, a combination of cotton fabrics in mixed panels put together to make this sharply styled contemporary shirt perfect for the Officers Mess!
53
Product Code: RE0213/SHIRTING
Colour Palette: LIGHT GREY NAVY WHITE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
ENGINEER SHIRT
Field Notes The reason some shirts look great is all down to the cut, and Realm & Empire’s Engineer Shirt is one brilliantly cut shirt. Inspired by classic military styles, the silhouette is relaxed with dropped shoulders for casual ruggedness, and thoughtful details ensure this is a go-to wardrobe staple for this season. The horseshoe shaped pocket detail is inspired from good luck connotations first promoted during the First World War.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY NAVY / WHITE STRIPE CHAMBRAY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
54
Product Code: RE0209/SHIRTING
GUNNER Overshirt
Field Notes Our Gunner Overshirt has a distinctly Tommy twist. Cut to perfection in super soft flannel fabric, it can be worn as a shirt or layered nicely over tees as a light jacket. This stylish wardrobe staple has a superb look and feel. Detailing is inspired by standard issue trench tunics with large branded rusty gunmetal buttons and over-sized pockets for storing all your personal belongings!
55
Product Code: RE0219/TROUSERS
Colour Palette: ORIGINAL STRIPE BLACK
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
OFFICER TROUSER
Field Notes Inspired by traditional paddelators, and made from British Wool fabric manufactured in Huddersfield, England, our new slim leg officer pants are half lined with a luxurious deep red jacquard print. Perfect for a super polished look, fix up and look sharp! If you’re feeling brave, contrast them with a casual overshirt for a contemporary edge!
Colour Palette: DARK CHARCOAL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
56
Product Code: RE0220/TROUSERS
Tommy TROUSER
Field Notes The trousers worn by the infantry during the First World War were constructed from the same rough woolen serge as the tunics. Thankfully, for you gents, the forward-thinking Realm & Empire creative has skillfully re-imagined the modern Tommy with maximum style & comfort in mind. Available in classic corduroy or herringbone cotton fabrics and with our signature rusty gunmetal buttons to the fly, as well as to the waistband as an option to wear with braces.
57
Product Code: RE0190/SWEAT
Colour Palette: BURNT HENNA, (CORDUROY) COFFEE BEAN (CORDUROY) NAVY (HERRINGBONE) RIFLE GREEN (HERRINGBONE)
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
R.E. Field Marshall
Field Notes Individually tailored using the finest fabrics, the uniforms of high-ranking officers were something very special indeed. Spending time seeking the perfect fabric compositions and combinations, at Realm & Empire we think our collection of cap sleeve sweaters with applique detailing are something to behold too! The only question is - which one are you - the Field Marshal, the Captain or the Major-General?
Colour Palette: BURGUNDY MARL/ECRU MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
58
Product Code: RE0229/SWEAT
R.E. Captain
Field Notes Individually tailored using the finest fabrics, the uniforms of high-ranking officers were something very special indeed. Spending time seeking the perfect fabric compositions and combinations, at Realm & Empire we think our collection of cap sleeve sweaters with applique detailing are something to behold too! The only question is - which one are you - the Field Marshal, the Captain or the MajorGeneral?
59
Product Code: RE0230/SWEAT
Colour Palette: BLACK/NAVY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
R.E. Major-General
Field Notes Individually tailored using the finest fabrics, the uniforms of high-ranking officers were something very special indeed. Spending time seeking the perfect fabric compositions and combinations, at Realm & Empire we think our collection of cap sleeve sweaters with applique detailing are something to behold too! The only question is - which one are you - the Field Marshal, the Captain or the Major-General?
Colour Palette: CAMO MARL/ECRU MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0191/SWEAT
60
Shoulder Panel Sweater
Field Notes At the outbreak of the First World War, the British Army was faced with a serious deficit of soldiers including Officers. Officer Training Corps were set up in universities where men were taught to command, lead and importantly behave like an officer. This season we’ve refined our classic sweats for the more distinguished gent with distinctive shoulder patches and the addition of subtle side zip pockets. Made from a luxury brushback fleece, it’s quite the show-stopper to demand all your comrades stand to attention.
Colour Palette: BLACK/DARK DENIM CAMO MARL/FUDGE GREENER PASTURES/BURNT HENNA
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
61
Product Code: RE0189/SWEAT
Reverse Panel Sweater
Field Notes In 1914, the typical Tommy look would have been defined by three things: practicality, necessity and survival. In the trenches, official issue uniform was sometimes modified, adapted or added to according to need and conditions. Inspired by that needs-must attitude, our design team have created the Reverse Panel Crew Sweater, mixing up textures with a loop-back panel on the chest! Modern in design and nostalgic in hue – perfect for those who like to go about their business with understated style.
Colour Palette: BLACK IRIS GREENER PASTURES BUNGEE CORD
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0245/SWEAT
62
Snowface crew
Field Notes When Frank Hurley joined the Australian Imperial Force as an official photographer in 1917, his comrades were not surprised by his courage and skill in documenting the drama of the battlefield on the Western Front. However, Hurley had already demonstrated extreme courage, endurance and talent as official photographer on Ernest Shackleton’s near-fatal Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition between 1914 and 1916. It was on this treacherous trip that Hurley captured this stunning ‘snow-face’ image of C.T Madigan.
63
Product Code: RE0246/SWEAT
Colour Palette: GREY MARL DARK DENIM
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Artist & RIFLES
Field Notes The Artists Rifles, the forerunner of the SAS was formed in 1860 from a group of painters, sculptors, engravers, musicians, architects and actors. After the outbreak of war, they were mobilised for participation in the First World War, sailing to France aboard the SS Australis. Combining our passion for history and skilled craftsmanship, the Realm & Empire Artists & Rifles sweat features hand-drawn lettering, crafted in our Nottingham studio!
Colour Palette: CAMO MARL DARK DENIM GREENER PASTURES
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0227/SWEAT
64
ROYAL Flying Corps Crew
Field Notes Though only formed in 1912, the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) was integral to efforts in the First World War, where they acted as the forward eyes of the British Army, battled for air supremacy, defended the skies of Britain and attacked targets deep behind enemy lines. They directed artillery gunfire, manned & operated observation balloons, took photographs for intelligence analysis and took part in dangerous dogfights.
65
Product Code: RE0121/SWEAT
Colour Palette: DARK DENIM/BLACK IRISL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Classic Raglan Sweater
Field Notes Here’s a pared-down Realm & Empire sweat done to perfection for those who like to go about their business with subtle style. Carrying a discreet R&E emblem on our Property of Great Britain triangular badge, this is a classic raglan sweat, a construction that takes its name from the distinguishing type of sleeve that extends in one piece fully to the collar and displays an obvious diagonal seam. The style, often seen in more relaxed garments with a sporty edge, gets its name courtesy of Fitzroy James Henry Somerset, the first Baron Raglan who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo and took to wearing coats made this way.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY GREY MARL CHIVE CHINCHILLA
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
66
Product Code: RE0194/SWEAT
Pullover Hood
Field Notes Military uniforms, kit bags and vehicles were meticulously adorned, stamped or stencilled with the motif of the regiment for straightforward identification. Garment dyed with button neck and the Realm & Empire leather ‘ever open eye’ debossed patch the breast.
67
Product Code: RE0192/SWEAT
Colour Palette: DARK DENIM ACID BUNGEE CORD ACID BLACK
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
RFC Zip Thru hood
Field Notes Though only formed in 1912, the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) was integral to efforts in the First World War, where they acted as the forward eyes of the British Army, battled for air supremacy, defended the skies of Britain and attacked targets deep behind enemy lines. They directed artillery gunfire, manned & operated observation balloons, took photographs for intelligence analysis and took part in dangerous dogfights.
Colour Palette: PIRATE BLACK ACID GREENER PASTURES ACID
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
68
Product Code: RE0193/SWEAT
R.E. Zip Thru hood
Field Notes Military uniforms, kit bags and vehicles were meticulously adorned, stamped or stencilled with the motif of the regiment for straightforward identification. This is a garment dyed classic zip front with a clean and simple Realm & Empire emblem on the breast.
69
Product Code: RE0208/POLO SHIRT
Colour Palette: BURNT HENNA ACID CRÈME DE MENTHE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
ECHELON Polo
Field Notes New for this season, the classic Realm & Empire polos have been given their stripes! Featuring flat-knit collar and cuffs, robust, 100% heavy cotton pique, gunmetal finish buttons and R&E embroidery on the chest, a timeless wardrobe staple – and in great new season colour combinations, including a Marsh Stripe.
Colour Palette: NAVY STRIPE ECRU STRIPE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
70
Product Code: RE 0207/POLO SHIRT
SAPPER Polo
Field Notes This classic is made from heavy 100% cotton pique and garment dyed for an extra vintage feel. Featuring flat-knit collar and cuffs with gunmetal finish buttons it’s the perfect garment to dress up or dress down as the mood takes you – and in great new season colours too: a timeless wardrobe staple.
71
Product Code: RE0203/TEE
Colour Palette: BURNT HENNA CRÈME DE MENTHE BLACK BLACK IRIS
Trench Floral
Field Notes Perhaps the most unusual of our research finds is a fragment of wallpaper, salvaged from the wall of a German First World War dugout in 1917 near Ectreés in France. This floral print, first introduced for Spring Summer has been masterfully reworked and acid-washed for Autumn Winter for a relaxed vintage feel.
Colour Palette: DARK DENIM ACID BURNT HENNA ACID GREENER PASTURES ACID
DARK DENIM
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
72
Product Code: RE0184/TEE
Stripe Crew
Field Notes In the First World War, stripes were a common feature of the uniform of British soldiers. Today, the stripe tee has become a staple in the modern gentleman’s wardrobe. Straightforward cut, straightforward stripes – The sign of great style.
73
Product Code: RE0182/TEE
Colour Palette: ECRU STRIPE NAVY STRIPE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Panel Stripe
Field Notes In the First World War, stripes were a common feature of the uniform of British soldiers. Today, the stripe tee has become a staple in the modern gentleman’s wardrobe, signalling outright great style. Subtle camouflage colours with a contrast pocket. Show off your stripes!
Colour Palette: NAVY STRIPE/ECRU STRIPE ECRU STRIPE/NAVY STRIPE MULTI STRIPE/CAMO MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
74
Product Code: RE0187/TEE
Blast
Field Notes The First World War period coincided with a range of modernist movements, exemplified in 1914 by the explosive arrival of Blast! magazine, created by Wyndham Lewis. Considered highly radical at the time, Blast was a powerful manifesto to Vorticism – a movement which sought to embrace modernity and a new abstract style of thinking. At Realm & Empire, we love how these ideas were reflected in the typography and style of the magazine too.
Colour Palette: GOLD ACID GREEN PASTURES ACID CAMO MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
75
Product Code: RE0195/TEE
Vortex
Field Notes Vorticism was a radical art movement that shone briefly but brightly in the years at the start of the First World War. Its ambition was to blast away what they believed to be worn-out Victorian beliefs, in favour of a new, invigorated way of thinking. By revisiting these techniques and ideas, the Realm & Empire creative has created this strikingly unique and progressive print for Autumn Winter.
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW CRÈME DE MENTHE BUNGEE CORD
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
76
Product Code: RE0196/TEE
Snowface
Field Notes When Frank Hurley joined the Australian Imperial Force as an official photographer in 1917, his comrades were not surprised by his courage and skill in documenting the drama of the battlefield on the Western Front. However, Hurley had already demonstrated extreme courage, endurance and talent as official photographer on Ernest Shackleton’s near-fatal Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition between 1914 and 1916. It was on this treacherous trip that Hurley captured this stunning ‘snow-face’ image of C.T Madigan.
77
Product Code: RE0205/TEE
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW CRÈME DE MENTHE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Decoyed
Field Notes Accounts from the First World War are filled with stories of heroic fighter aces, such as Albert Ball and James McCudden. This season at R&E, we’ve been inspired by these heroes of the air who flew in all conditions to try to ensure British air superiority. Sourced from IWM, this technical air diagram, entitled ‘Decoyed’, drawn by a pilot, shows RFC aircraft being lured into a trap mid-flight.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL BURNT HENNA GREENER PASTURES
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
78
Product Code: RE0240/TEE
BiPlanes
Field Notes By 1918, aerial photographic images could be taken from 15,000 feet meaning that commanders could get a better idea of the battle front but this season, we’ve also been fascinated by illustrations hand scribbled by pilots of the Royal Flying Corps such as this detailed sketch of two British biplanes flying over the deep gorge of the Wadi Baroda, created in 1919 by Sydney Carline.
79
Product Code: RE0202/TEE
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW BLACK
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Sopwith Camel Patrol
Field Notes In order for people to understand the experience and sacrifice of war, artists were commissioned to document the First World War. Sydney Carline was one of those appointed in 1918 by the then recently founded Imperial War Museum to explore aerial warfare in his artwork. This oil painting depicts a Sopwith Camel, a highly manoeuvrable fighter plane, in mid-attack near Sacile, Italy.
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW DARK DENIM ACID
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: RE0241/TEE
80
BluePrint
Field Notes At Realm & Empire we love to seek out examples of extraordinary craftsmanship, and that’s exactly what drew our gaze to magnificent blueprint drawings of RFC aircraft from the First World War! In 1861, Chemist Alphonse Poitevin found that ferro-gallate in gum is light sensitive, which led to the invention of the blueprint. The process allowed for rapid and accurate reproduction of documents and technical drawings – invaluable to Royal Flying Corps’ engineering. This image shows a blueprint of a BE2e biplane.
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW SNOW WHITE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
81
Product Code: RE0244/TEE
C Type camera
Field Notes As we step into AW14, it is the photographers of the First World War that have provided key inspiration for this collection, from those working in the front line trenches to the men of the Royal Flying Corps who pioneered aerial photography. At Realm & Empire, we love this image of a RFC photographer wearing his leather flying gear and carrying a C type aerial camera!
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW ECRU MARL GOLD ACID
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Code: REO243/TEE
82
BE2c
Field Notes On 19 August 1914, just a decade after the Wright Brothers first took to the air in 1903, the Royal Flying Corps undertook its first aerial reconnaissance mission over the Western Front. The mission resulted in the creation of the first grid map, which revolutionized British wartime cartography. The photograph shows a sergeant of the Royal Flying Corps demonstrating a C type aerial camera fixed to the fuselage of a BE2c aircraft in 1916.
83
Product Code: RE0198/TEE
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW CRÈME DE MENTHE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
PRIME MINISTER
Field Notes In January 1941, former Belgian Minister of Justice, Victor de Laveleye, suggested that the V for Victory sign be used as a rallying emblem during the Second World War. He said, “the occupier, by seeing this sign, [would] understand that he is surrounded by an immense crowd of citizens eagerly awaiting his first moment of weakness, watching for his first failure.” By July, the use of the sign had spread. This image shows Prime Minister Churchill giving the victory sign during a visit to Bradford, 4 December 1942. Nowadays, the sign takes on a somewhat different meaning if reversed…
Colour Palette: MARSHMALLOW DENIM BLUE ACID
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
84
Product Code: RE0204/TEE
Royal Flyer CORPS
Field Notes Though only formed in 1912, the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) was integral to efforts in the First World War, where they acted as the forward eyes of the British Army, battled for air supremacy, defended the skies of Britain and attacked targets deep behind enemy lines. They directed artillery gunfire, manned & operated observation balloons, took photographs for intelligence analysis and took part in dangerous dogfights.
85
Product Code: RE0242/TEE
Colour Palette: NAVY MARL GREENER PASTURES ACID ECRU MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
RE Shadow
Field Notes The First World War marked a remarkable shift in the art & literary arena. Suddenly, people were forced to respond to the swirling chaos that was Britain in the early twentieth century. Amid it all, the Vorticists’ message was quite possibly, the loudest and most radical. Inspired by the Vorticists’ vitality & passion for progression, this season Realm & Empire branding shines bolder and brighter than ever!
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL CRÈME DE MENTHE BUNGEE CORD ACID
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
86
Product Code: RE0201/TEE
Realm Underlined
Field Notes Course-textured and weathered livery, multi-layered with bold insignia – the tell-tale signs of a Tommy during the First World War! For the mass-produced standard issue uniform, every item of clothing was organised with names and numbers assigned for precise, easy identification. This Realm & Empire design pays homage to the typography of the day, whilst the acid-wash finish adds a little bit of that scuffed up, Tommy edge!
87
Product Code: RE0231/ACCESSORIES
Colour Palette: NAVY MARL ACID ECRU MARL
Product Code: RE0232/ACCESSORIES
Gloves
Field Notes Fingerless gloves were a necessity for the men in the First World War, providing much sought after warmth whilst also allowing the dexterity to carry out their daily duties. Consider yourself lucky chaps; the Realm & Empire fingerless gloves are made in the UK from luxurious lambswool blend… and available to you all!
Field Notes Inspired by traditional First World War detailing our ‘fit for an Officer’ gloves are made from high quality real leather and lined with comfortable 100% cotton fleece. Perfect for taking that salute!
Colour Palette:
Colour Palette:
BLACK
BLACK
GREY MARL
OFFICER TAN
NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
88
Product Code: RE0225/ACCESSORIES
COMMANDO HAT
Field Notes With steel helmets no longer needed and the weather too cold for a peaked cap, this R&E hat should be the headgear of choice for the modern Tommy! Made in the UK from 100% British Wool the R&E Commando Hat offers exceptional style & warmth for the winter months.
89
Product Code: RE0226/ACCESSORIES
Colour Palette: LODEN GREEN CHARCOAL DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
rib Scarf
Field Notes If you’re after a key accessory that’ll tap into this season’s trends, then our Rib Tommy scarf is your go-to option! Made to complement our Cable Crew the Realm & Empire Rib Scarf is made in the UK from 100% British Wool.
Colour Palette: LODEN GREEN CHARCOAL DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
Product Product Code: Code: RE0116/SWEAT RE0235/ACCESSORIES
Product Code: RE0235/ACCESSORIES
Wallets
Field Notes Made in Britain, the Realm & Empire Bill Fold wallet is executed in a unique way with a one piece folded construction enabling it to easily hold large quantities of notes as well as cards! Beautifully crafted from gloriously smooth & supple English Bridle Shoulder, which is leather that is tanned in the traditional fashion using natural vegetable tannins – a process which takes a month to complete! A real work of art!
Field Notes Made in Britain, the Realm & Empire long fold wallet is executed in a unique way with a one piece folded construction enabling it to easily hold large quantities of notes as well as cards! Beautifully crafted from gloriously smooth & supple English Bridle Shoulder, which is leather that is tanned in the traditional fashion using natural vegetable tannins – a process which takes a month to complete! A real work of art!
Colour Palette:
Colour Palette:
BLACK
BLACK
OFFICER TAN
OFFICER TAN
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
91
Product Code: RE0233/ACCESSORIES
Rucksack
Field Notes AW14 sees a selection of carefully constructed bags deployed to the range for the very first time! Inspired by First World War originals, the Realm & Empire rucksack is made from a heavy canvas fabric with high-quality leather straps and brass fittings. British made - A compact, comfortable bag with an abundance of space including an integral padded compartment for that vital laptop!
Colour Palette: OLIVE CANVAS/LEATHER
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
92
Product Code: RE0234/ACCESSORIES
Holdall
Field Notes Also new for this year, the Realm & Empire Holdall represents everything that we love about British heritage and design. British made in heavy canvas and high quality leather and finished with subtle R&E ‘ever open eye’ patch branding, it’s as elegant as it is practical. A perfect overnight bag for your travels and it also makes a great carry-on bag for a flight!
93
Product Code: RE0237/ACCESSORIES
Colour Palette: OLIVE CANVAS/LEATHER
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
map Bag 17”
Field Notes Keeping personal belongings secure in the trenches was an almighty task back in 1914. Fortunately, for you we’ve made it much simpler these days! New to the range is the lovely Realm & Empire canvas & leather Map Bag. British made to protect your precious piece of 13” kit and other accoutrements! It just shows, a century may have passed but you can’t beat a simple design that withstands the test of time!
Colour Palette: OLIVE CANVAS/LEATHER
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014
94
Contact UK & International Richard Robinson Brand Director +44 (0)7446 110138 Richard@realmandempire.com ITALY Coolness Milano Brand Ambassadors Info@coolnessmilano.com
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2014