—Autumn/Winter 2013
Brand Introduction
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British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
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Chapter 01.
our inspiration
“[Exhibits must] be vitalised by contributions expressive of the action, the experiences, the valour and the endurance of individuals.” Sir Martin Conway, first Director General of the Imperial War Museums
Imperial War Museums (IWM) is the British museum that provides the source of inspiration for the Realm & Empire label. It’s a unique and exclusive collaboration that sees an archive of such overwhelming historical importance creatively interpreted by our own team into contemporary, stylish menswear collections. IWM comprises five museums in England, three of which are in London. The original IWM was founded in 1917 when the War Cabinet approved a proposal by Sir Alfred Mond MP for the creation of a national war museum to record the events still taking place in the First World War. The aim of the museum was to record the civil and military war effort and the sacrifice of Britain and her Empire during the war years. The Lambeth Road museum is based in the architecturallyappealing Georgian building in Southwark that once housed the Bethlam Royal Hospital (commonly known as “Bedlam”). IWM’s remit has grown and it now tells the story of all conflicts in which Britain or Commonwealth forces have been involved since 1914. It is considered the world’s leading authority on conflict and its impact. The museum aims to provide for, and to encourage, the study and understanding of the history of modern war and “wartime experience”.
IWM London is currently undergoing a major redevelopment through to 2014 as part of a programme of events that will commemorate the 100-year anniversary of the start of the First World War. New world-class galleries will offer new stories and perspectives on the First World War, and a six-floor atrium will explore aspects of conflict from 1914 to the present day. IWM will lead the First World War Centenary Partnership, a network of over 500 local, regional, national and international cultural and educational organisations that will together present a vibrant global programme of cultural events and activities that will connect current and future generations with the lives, stories and impact of the First World War. When Sir Alfred Mond originally addressed the King on behalf of the museum committee in June 1920, he said the museum “[is] not a monument of military glory, but a record of toil and sacrifice”. We see it also as a museum of the human qualities of purpose, practicality and steadfastness as well as the eccentricity and unique humour that has underpinned our country’s past – and, more often than not, with the great sense of style and design from which we are privileged and grateful to take inspiration for our collections.
The other museum branches are IWM North in Salford Quays, Greater Manchester, IWM Duxford near Cambridge, the Churchill War Rooms in Whitehall and the historic ship HMS Belfast, moored in the Pool of London on the River Thames.
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COLOPHON
Front Cover: Winston Churchill on board the battleship HMS PRINCE OF WALES during his journey to America to meet President Roosevelt, August 1941. © IWM (H 12784). Inside front cover: Picture taken by kind permission aboard HMS BELFAST. Lifestyle photography taken by kind permission aboard HMS BELFAST. IWM images used in the logbook are shown cropped from their original display.
COPYRIGHT Copyright © 2011, 2013 Realm & Empire ® (www.realmandempire.com) All rights reserved. Unless otherwise indicated, all material in this publication is copyrighted. No part of these pages, either text or images may be used for any purpose without written permission of the publisher. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Special thanks to Imperial War Museums for their support. (www.iwm.org.uk)
Page06: Picture taken by kind permission aboard HMS BELFAST.
DESIGN + ART DIRECTION Page 25: Admiral of the Fleet Sir Dudley Pound and the Prime Minister on the deck of the SS QUEEN MARY © IWM (A 16717). Page 26: Pictures taken by kind permission aboard HMS BELFAST.
Design and layout by Norman Hayes of Waste Studio. (www.wastestudio.com) PHOTOGRAPHY
Page 27: HMS BELFAST. Modernisation 1956-1959: Detailed view of the rebuilt foremast showing types 277Q, 968 and 293 radar aerials © IWM (HU 4412).
Photographer: Damien Van Der Vlist Stylist: Atip W Grooming: Olivia Crighton Model: Dewi
Page 28(top): Training for ship mechanics of the Women’s Royal Naval Service, England UK, 1943 © IWM (D 17079).
TYPEFACES
Page 28(bottom): Painting the Ship's Number on an Escort Vessel © IWM (Art.IWM LD 4865).
Headers: Signal, URW++ Foundry.
Page 29: Sailors' Week poster © IWM (IWM.PST 15348).
Sub Headers & Quotes: Times New Roman, Monotype Foundry.
Page 30: A Royal Navy officer using a sextant aboard a destroyer on convoy protection duties, 1942 © IWM (TR 92). Page 31: British Monitors off the Coast of Palestine © IWM (ART 2407). Page 32: A crowd of sailors line up to receive their serving of rum from a large barrel in the foreground © IWM (ART 318).
Body Copy: Aaux Next, Positype Foundry Folios & Margain Notes: Avenir, Linotype GmbH Foundry. PRINT Printed and bound in Great Britain by Mortons Print on 55 gsm Palm 100% recycled paper. (www.mortons.co.uk)
Page 33: Poster - Full Ahead Production© IWM (IWM_PST_014083). Page 34: Picture taken by kind permission aboard HMS BELFAST.
128pp
Page 35: Picture taken by kind permission aboard HMS BELFAST. Page 36: Poster - MIGHTIER YET! In ships, tonnage and gunpower, the Navies of the British Empire are the most powerful sea force in the world - and another million tons of British warships are building © IWM (Art.IWM PST 0122). Page 40: Ground view of the breached Moehne Dam, photographed on the morning after the attack © IWM (MH 7526). Page 41: Head and shoulders portrait of Wing Commander Guy P Gibson VC DSO & Bar DFC & Bar, Commanding Officer of No 617 Squadron, Royal Air Force, who led Operation Chastise © IWM (MH 6673). Page 42(top): Avro Lancaster Mk I of No. 83 Squadron, based at Scampton in Lincolnshire, June 1942 © IWM (CH 6071). Page 42(bottom): Wing Commander Guy Gibson (in door of aircraft) and his crew board their Avro Lancaster bomber for No. 617 Squadron's raid on the Ruhr Dams, 16 May 1943 © IWM (CH 18005). Page 43: Wing Commander Guy Gibson VC, Commanding Officer of No. 617 Squadron (The Dambusters), May 1943 © IWM (CH 11047). Page 81: Training for ship mechanics of the Women’s Royal Naval Service, England UK, 1943 © IWM (D 17079). Back Cover: HMS NELSON underway at sea © IWM (A 28920).
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CONTENTS
Chapter 01
(Pg 01)
OUR INSPIRATION Chapter 02
(Pg 04)
THE BRAND Chapter 03
(Pg 07)
ON BOARD WITH REAL NAVAL STYLE Chapter 04
(Pg 08–13)
GETTING DOWN TO DETAILS Chapter 05
(Pg 14)
BEST OF BRITISH Chapter 06
(Pg 16–19)
AW13 LOOKS Chapter 07
(Pg 20–39)
FIELD TRIP: VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Chapter 08
(Pg 40–43)
OPERATION CHASTISE (THE DAMBUSTERS' RAID) Chapter 09
(Pg 44–80)
HMS BELFAST PHOTOSHOOT Chapter 10
(Pg 81–124)
AW13 COLLECTION
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Chapter 02.
THE BRAND
“Continuous effort… is the key to unlocking our potential.” Winston Churchill
Welcome back to Realm & Empire for the Autumn Winter 2013 season, and the launch of our most ambitious, exciting collection to date. The Realm & Empire story is a unique one. A new label enriched by the heritage, authenticity and credibility of the past. A brand committed to unfaltering quality, practicality, robustness, craftsmanship and technique. Influenced and inspired by genuine artefacts, articles, documents and photographs from the vast and marvellous archives of IWM, reinterpreted and made relevant for the style-conscious individual looking for something that goes a little deeper than just the fabric. And here’s where you’ll find it: something that doesn’t just run through the stitching, but through our very spirit and identity. At Realm & Empire HQ we’ve been overwhelmed by the positive feedback we’ve had about the concept and the clothing. True to the sentiment in the quote from Churchill above, this latest collection is testimony to the effort we continue to put into delivering something special each new season.
As well as delivering a brand new consignment of our authentically-interpreted signature Realm & Empire Tees and Sweats – including a 70th anniversary celebration of the 617 Dambusters Squadron – this season sees us deploy knitwear and trousers to the collection for the first time: each new piece historically, militarily and sartorially referenced and given a unique Realm & Empire twist. And this season we’ve gone even further than sifting through the finest archive in the land for inspiration. We’ve gone to sea. The Autumn Winter 2013 collection is hugely influenced by our latest naval explorations and discoveries: realised in ways as apparent as our outstanding new Pea Coat, as well as the more stylishly subtle, faithfully recreating graphic typography from authentic hand-written sign-lettering we found aboard HMS Belfast. Obsessed? Perhaps. But without such regard for the detail, it just wouldn’t be Realm & Empire. Enjoy the collection…
Where the previous collections have established the Realm & Empire philosophy, Autumn Winter 2013 sees us venture into new territory, and we’ve undertaken the challenge with the courage and tenacity that should only be expected of us given our historical reference points.
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Chapter 03.
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on board with real naval style Supply, transportation, protection and attack: Churchill fully comprehended the importance of British sea power during the war, which would have to redefine its role since air power quickly began to establish itself as the more influential force in effective fighting. This season, leading us into the new waters of Autumn Winter, is a striking collection of Realm & Empire pieces inspired by the illustrious history of the Royal Navy. The brand’s signature tees and sweats feature powerful images of magnificently imposing battleships, cruisers and carriers from IWM collections, with original naval poster artwork and typography further inspiring the final designs. Authentic photographs and drawings, phrases, prints, ship names, insignia and all kinds of serendipitous museum finds are honoured through interpretation across the range, combining stylishly and elegantly with Realm & Empire’s characteristic eye for detail and style. And we’ve not only been inspired by documents and artefacts, but by traditional naval apparel itself. So it is with an enthusiastic salute that we welcome a beautifullycut Realm & Empire Pea Coat to our outerwear collection. Keep a lookout for many more naval influences across the range: including our new-for-2013 knitwear and our essential winter commando hat. Hold fast, men, for there’s a lot here to get excited about.
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Chapter 04.
Getting down to details
These days, the word quality is banded about so frequently and flippantly that all original meaning is fast becoming lost. Rest assured, however, that every item of apparel decorated with the Realm & Empire emblem represents a garment that lives up to the truest sense of the term. From well-cut fabrics to durable finishes and carefullyconsidered fastenings, let’s get down to details… First mention in despatches goes to the Realm and Empire label markings. Representing a brand inspired by poignant periods in our nation’s history, this has been given due consideration with every garment in the Realm & Empire range carrying our shuttle-loom back neck label, together with an ID label that bears a unique number on each and every piece (cleverly hidden by a removable strip). Outerwear features an elegant leather debossed ever-open-eye badge adapted from the famous Guards Armoured Division. Realm & Empire signature tees ensure you feel at ease in 100% cotton with a stone-washed finish for a soft vintage feel. Classic polos are garment-washed and robust in 100% cotton heavy-piqué fabric featuring vintage gunmetal bar buttons and embroidered chest insignia. Our relaxed, classic-fit sweat styles are a mix of brushed and loop-back fleece with discreet self-colour R&E embroidery at the wrist.
Commanding respect from all quarters is our new navy Captain Shirt, cut to perfection from densely-constructed 100% cotton twill and precision-sewn with flat-fell seams to create a sharp silhouette. Garment-washed for a vintage look, the shirt is cleverly designed to look the part whether tucked in or worn out, with a stylised gunmetal button placket and shaped front hemline. The season’s outerwear takes inspiration from traditional naval, military and explorer clothing and sees a brand new Pea Coat line up alongside our celebrated British Wax Jacket. A new Parka and our classic Artisan Jacket in contemporary new colours completes the line-up. Vintage brass-finish zips and chocolate leather pullers and toggles add quality finishing details whilst fine Merino wool is the perfect base for our inaugural knitwear pieces. We would urge you to explore these pieces in even finer detail over the following pages.
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T-Shirts 100% cotton and stone washed for a vintage soft feel. Colour marls, new for this season give a new depth to the range. Sweats With a classic, relaxed fit, Sweats and Hoods are a mixture of 100% cotton loop-back and 80/20 Cotton/Poly brushback fleece - perfect for casual style and comfort with our signature, discreet self-colour embroidered R&E at the wrist. Jackets & Shirts The season’s outerwear takes inspiration from traditional naval, military and explorer clothing and sees a brand new Pea Coat line up alongside our celebrated British Wax Jacket. A new Parka and our classic Artisan Jacket in contemporary new colours completes the line-up. Vintage brass-finish zips and chocolate leather pullers and toggles add quality finishing details. Knitwear Fine 100% Merino wool is the perfect base for our inaugural knitwear pieces and British made to boot. Classic styles with branded wooden buttons and subtle Realm & Empire badging is sure to draw the wearer many admiring glances. Wardrobe essentials once the autumnal winds start to pick up.
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Chapter 05.
Best of british
Part of the unique appeal of Realm & Empire is the charming patriotism that resides at the very heart of the brand, and our desire to pay tribute to the most admirable aspects of Britishness in everything we do. Things like the indomitable British spirit and our sense of humour. Our steadfastness and resolve with a strong sense of justice and fair play. The sense of individual style and willingness to express ourselves. Our respect for quality, craftsmanship, durability and manufacturing that sets the exceptional apart from the ordinary. Across the Autumn Winter 2013 collection we’ve aimed to source and work with – as well take influence from – the best of British. So while the concept behind every piece starts life as an inspiration from original archive collections, we’re keen to keep as much of the realisation of the range upon these fair shores too. We’re pleased to report therefore that our latest additions to the Realm & Empire Collection, in the form of our 100% merino wool knitwear, are manufactured in England: more specifically in the Midlands, a part of the country traditionally associated with knitwear production. Back by popular demand this season is our iconically-constructed British Wax Jacket. Inspired by Captain RF Scott and based on a traditional expedition jacket, it is another fine example of Realm & Empire’s use of true British craft and tradition, being expertly made from British Millerain waxed cotton. Established in 1880, British Millerain are specialist manufacturers of traditional performance waterproof fabrics. Six generations of the Miller family later, the company remains a world leader in its field – expertise you’ll be glad of when you’re out in the best of the season’s weather.
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Chapter 06.
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the LOOK: bo'sun
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the LOOK: WAtchman
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Chapter 07.
Field trips: voyage of discovery
Pro Tanto Quid Retribuamus For so much, how shall we repay? Motto, HMS Belfast
Those already familiar with Realm & Empire know that the inspiration for each season begins with a fresh poring over the truly awesome archives made exclusively available to us by IWM. Armed with notepads, sketchbooks, cameras and eager eyes, our intrepid creative team scout, search and sift though the documents, photographs and artefacts that will be authentically reinterpreted to create the next standout Realm & Empire collection. From iconic images for our signature t-shirts and sweats, to the military badges that influence our labels and fastenings, there’s inspiration to be found among all that we are fortunate to have access too. Perhaps it will be the message or design layout of a propaganda poster, a soldier’s drawing of a gunship, the hand-painted lettering on a munitions crate, or the vintage uniforms and accessories we carefully examine on our field trips – one thing is always certain: we’ll return back to the studio full of ideas. Never has this been truer than following our latest expedition to the archives for the key Field Trip for the Autumn Winter 2013 collection. A little different for us too since the archive was floating… Welcome aboard HMS Belfast, the former Royal Navy Light Cruiser moored on the Thames and now part of IWM. Built in Belfast by Messrs Harland & Wolff in 1936, HMS Belfast was launched on St Patrick’s Day, 17 March 1938 and commissioned into the Royal Navy on 5 August 1939 under the command of Captain G A Scott DSO RN.
In November 1942 she returned – and with more firepower, advanced radar equipment and new armour. The largest and most powerful cruiser on the fleet at the time, Belfast worked the Arctic waters protecting the vital supply line to the Soviet Union before taking part in the Battle of North Cape, where the German warship Scharnhorst was destroyed. She also played a role in Operation Overlord, supporting the Normandy landings where she reportedly fired one of the first shots on D-Day itself. After the Second World War, and following further service in the Korean War and peace-keeping duties, IWM, via a special trust headed up by one of her former captains Rear-Admiral Sir Morgan Morgan-Giles, brought HMS Belfast to London to open her to the public. She remains entrusted to the museum and is the last remaining vessel of her type – one of the largest and most powerful light cruisers ever built, (and the largest acquisitioned object the museum has). We explored HMS Belfast from stem to stern, examining every detail in our usual quest for the unusual. Always endeavouring to look beneath the surface, we take particular satisfaction in unearthing the less obvious fragments of the past that we respectfully work into our range. Here over the following pages are just some of the many magnificent finds from our last field trips that have been the inspiration for this season’s naval theme and, indeed, the complete Realm & Empire Autumn Winter 2013 collection.
Immediately involved in the maritime blockade of Germany, disaster struck early for the 11,550-ton Belfast as she hit a magnetic mine, causing damage to her hull so severe she was put out of action for three years.
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OPERATION CHASTISE (THE DAMBUSTERS' RAID)
2013 sees the 70th anniversary of the Dambusters raids flown by 617 Squadron RAF and we commemorate the occasion with a limitededition run of special Realm & Empire T-shirts and Sweats. Perhaps the most famous RAF squadron currently flying, 617 Squadron was formed at Scampton on 21 March 1943 specifically to undertake one operation – Operation Chastise – the breaching of dams vital to the German war effort. Chastise called for the breaching of three enormous dams in the Ruhr – the heart of German industrial production–- by dropping a specially-designed mine at exactly 60 feet (18.29m) and a speed 220 mph (354 km/h). British engineer Barnes Wallis’s innovative ‘bouncing bomb’ was carried by specially-adapted Lancaster Bombers that held the massive new bombs outside of the plane in holding devices with motors attached in order to spin the cylindrical explosives at high speed before the payload was dropped. The bombs had to be released from the eighteen-metre flying height from a precise predetermined distance for the spinning bomb to skip across the water into the dam face and then roll straight down it, exploding at depth. To make it even more challenging for the pilots, the entire mission had to be flown at low-level, into anti-aircraft fire – and had to take place at night. The Squadron's Commanding Officer, Wing Commander Guy Gibson, was given free reign to comb other Lancaster squadrons for the crews he thought could best undertake the mission. For weeks, not even Gibson was told of the unit's task, only that low-level flying over water was essential, and training was undertaken in and around the dams and reservoirs of Derbyshire. Nineteen specially-modified Lancasters carried out the attack during the night of 16/17 May 1943, successfully breaching the Mohne and Eder dams, but failing with attacks on two others, the Sorpe and Schwelme. Wing Commander Gibson repeatedly flew over the Mohne and Eder dams to draw fire away from the attacking aircraft and was subsequently awarded the Victoria Cross for his gallantry. Thirty-two other members of the Squadron were also decorated, but a total of eight aircraft and their crews were lost during the night. 617 Squadron today is based at RAF Lossiemouth and flies the Tornado GR4.
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sweatshirts title
British British Inspired. Inspired. Autumn/Winter Autumn/Winter Collection Collection 2013 2013
Product Code: RE0099/SWEAT
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V FOR VICTORY
Field Notes In 1941, Victor de Laveleye, former Belgian Minister of Justice and director of Belgian/French-speaking broadcasts on the BBC suggested on air that the Belgian people used a V as an emblem for Victory to make the enemy realise he was constantly surrounded by a crowd of citizens ready to exploit his first weakness. The emblematic use of the V symbol quickly spread across Europe and the V for Victory campaign soon became adopted by Churchill himself. Pictures of Churchill making the V-gesture are iconic – but he originally made the sign with his palm facing in, changing to palm-out only when it was explained to him that the former had a very different meaning to the ordinary British public. This Realm & Empire design features an image of Churchill acknowledging the cheering crowds aboard HMS Renown, the battleship on which he sailed from the USA.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL OLIVE MARL PEACOAT
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0116/SWEAT
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617 SQUADRON
Field Notes No. 617 Squadron RAF was formed in March 1943 with the specific task of breaching dams vital to the German war effort. The team was hand-picked to fly specially-adapted Lancaster Bombers carrying British engineer Barnes Wallis’s innovative bouncing bomb for the daring mission code-named Operation Chastise. The dam-busting raid required expert low-level flying at night and a precise payload drop into the dams whilst under enemy fire. Two dams were successfully breached and this gave the British a much-needed propaganda and morale boost following sustained heavy German bombing attacks at home. Here, the 617 number has been applied in appliqué to a limited-edition Realm & Empire sweat in acknowledgement of the 70th anniversary of the formation of the famous squadron.
Colour Palette: COFFEE BEAN THYME
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0117/RAGLAN SWEAT
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617 SQUADRON
Field Notes No. 617 Squadron RAF was formed in March 1943 with the specific task of breaching dams vital to the German war effort. The team was hand-picked to fly specially-adapted Lancaster Bombers carrying British engineer Barnes Wallis’s innovative bouncing bomb for the daring mission code-named Operation Chastise. The dam-busting raid required expert low-level flying at night and a precise payload drop into the dams whilst under enemy fire. Two dams were successfully breached and this gave the British a much-needed propaganda and morale boost following sustained heavy German bombing attacks at home. Here, the 617 number has been applied in appliqué to a limited-edition Realm & Empire sweat in acknowledgement of the 70th anniversary of the formation of the famous squadron.
Colour Palette: BLUE MARL/NAVY MARL OLIVE MARL/BURGANDY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0119/SWEAT
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WING COMMANDER
Field Notes Wing Commander Guy Penrose Gibson was the first Commanding Officer of 617 Squadron, the RAF’s specialist air division created to undertake the hazardous Dambusters mission in 1943. Affectionately known by his team as the “Arch Bastard”, he led his squadron of Lancaster bombers on the low-flying operation and, having dropped his own bomb, Gibson repeatedly turned back to fly over the Mohne and Eder dams in order to draw enemy fire away from the other attacking Lancasters. Gibson was awarded the Victoria Cross in recognition of his gallantry – not just for the Dambusters raids, but for his leadership and valour demonstrated during many other bombing missions.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL RUSTY MARL GREY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0103/SWEAT
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HOLDFAST
Field Notes Hold fast is the traditional naval term often tattooed onto the knuckles of sailors to bring them good luck at sea. Hold fast is a reminder to sailors to keep a firm grip upon the lines (ropes) they hold, and to ensure they are secure at all times while up in the rigging. Being aboard a ship at sea in gales and lashing rain, a moment’s lapse in concentration could result in a man being swept overboard; in everyday parlance, the phrase is used to encourage us to keep our resolve in times of adversity, and to stay on top of any difficult situation. A great phrase, we think, that captures the entire Churchillian philosophy and complements this great image of the man on the Mulberry harbour at Arromanches, seemingly deep in thought, and with an iconic cigar firmly in his mouth.
Colour Palette: RUSTY MARL GREY MARL BLUE MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0102/SWEAT
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HMS SHROPSHIRE
Field Notes HMS Shropshire was a Royal Navy country class heavy cruiser awarded the Atlantic 1941 and Arctic 1941 battle honours for her wartime services. Weighing 13,315 tons fullyloaded, 193 metres long and 20 metres wide, she carried up to 1,000 sailors while active, protecting convoys and seeing action around Mogadishu and in the South Atlantic. Her armament included eight 203mm Mk VIII dual guns, four QF 102mm Mk V single AA guns, four 40mm single and four 40mm quad pom-poms, plus two Vickers machine guns and two 533mm torpedo tubes. In this 1941 drawing by Herbert Hastings Williams, a South African architect who served in the Royal Navy, we see a view along Shropshire’s four pom-pom anti-aircraft weapons, the name given to the guns on account of the noise they made while being fired.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL GREY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0104/SWEAT
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VENGEANCE
Field Notes HMS Vengeance was a Colossus class light aircraft carrier and one of the few ships of her kind to be completed before the war ended in 1945. Constructed specifically for war duties, the Colossus carriers were always intended to be disposable warships – ships that would be scrapped after three years or as soon as hostilities ended. Vengeance, however, had an eventual service life of over 55 years, serving several more years in the Royal Navy after the war before being loaned to the Royal Australian Navy and later sold to Brazil. The typeface we have used to illustrate the carrier’s name on this luxurious Realm & Empire sweat is a faithful recreation of the exact lettering found engraved on the original ship’s bell.
Colour Palette: DAMSON COFFEE BEAN THYME
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Product Code: RE0112/RAGLAN SWEAT
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RXE
Field Notes The Realm & Empire team have been preoccupied with all things naval in the months leading up to the launch of the Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Photographs, files, documents and original signage has been pored over and obsessed about by the creative team, who scrutinised every hand-rendered font, traditionally-printed graphic and meticulously-drawn icon they found. This original Realm & Empire design is a tribute to all of our finds during this period and is particularly inspired by the vast number of official stamps we have seen in all kinds of wonderfully-faded inky forms on all kinds of marvellous papers. Here we’ve reinterpreted various designs and details into a single nautical-themed graphic that captures the style and spirit of our lead influence for the whole collection.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL/NAVY MARL GREY MARL/BURGANDY MARL
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Product Code: RE0111/SWEAT
91
RXE
Field Notes The Realm & Empire team have been preoccupied with all things naval in the months leading up to the launch of the Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Photographs, files, documents and original signage has been pored over and obsessed about by the creative team, who scrutinised every hand-rendered font, traditionally-printed graphic and meticulously-drawn icon they found. This original Realm & Empire design is a tribute to all of our finds during this period and is particularly inspired by the vast number of official stamps we have seen in all kinds of wonderfully-faded inky forms on all kinds of marvellous papers. Here we’ve reinterpreted various designs and details into a single nautical-themed graphic that captures the style and spirit of our lead influence for the whole collection.
Colour Palette: DAMSON THYME
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0107/RAGLAN SWEAT
92
REALM EMPIRE
Field Notes Vehicles, crates, bags, clothing… whether land, air or sea force, the armed services have a way of keeping everything organised with names and numbers assigned and clearly stamped or stencilled onto everything for straightforward, precise identification and processing. This Realm & Empire design pays homage to the style of typography used in such instances and the style has a definite military sports edge to it – a stylish, classic sweat fit for any purpose.
Colour Palette: BLUE MARL/NAVY MARL GREY MARL/BURGANDY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0121/RAGLAN SWEAT
93
CLASSIC RAGLAN
Field Notes Here’s a pared-down Realm & Empire sweat done to perfection for those who like to go about their business with subtle style. Carrying a discreet R&E emblem on our Property of Great Britain triangular badge, this is a classic raglan sweat, a construction that takes its name from the distinguishing type of sleeve that extends in one piece fully to the collar and displays an obvious diagonal seam. The style, often seen in more relaxed garments with a sporty edge, gets its name courtesy of Fitzroy James Henry Somerset, the first Baron Raglan who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo and took to wearing coats made this way.
Colour Palette: PEACOAT GINGER SPICE THYME
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0108/PULLOVER HOODY
94
REALM EMPIRE
Field Notes Vehicles, crates, bags, clothing… whether land, air or sea force, the armed services have a way of keeping everything organised with names and numbers assigned and clearly stamped or stencilled onto everything for straightforward, precise identification and processing. This Realm & Empire design pays homage to the style of typography used in such instances and the style has a definite military sports edge to it – a stylish, classic sweat fit for any purpose.
Colour Palette: THYME COFFEE BEAN DAMSON
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0113/ZIP THROUGH HOODY
95
RXE
Field Notes The Realm & Empire team have been preoccupied with all things naval in the months leading up to the launch of the Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Photographs, files, documents and original signage has been pored over and obsessed about by the creative team, who scrutinised every hand-rendered font, traditionally-printed graphic and meticulously-drawn icon they found. This original Realm & Empire design is a tribute to all of our finds during this period and is particularly inspired by the vast number of official stamps we have seen in all kinds of wonderfully-faded inky forms on all kinds of marvellous papers. Here we’ve reinterpreted various designs and details into a single nautical-themed graphic that captures the style and spirit of our lead influence for the whole collection.
Colour Palette: BLUE MARL BURGUNDY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0114/ZIP THROUGH HOODY
96
RE
Field Notes This classic Realm & Empire hoody has a definite military sports feel about it, and with felt applique R&E initials on the left breast and choice of dark colour you’ll look ready for a Royal Navy PT call. Should that call ever come, be aware that there is a Royal Navy fitness test that all new recruits have to pass. There’s a tough 12-week circuits-based training schedule as well as the navy’s famous 2.4km run to complete in a minimum time: males aged 15-24 will need to finish in 11 minutes 13 seconds, 25-29 year olds must come in under 11 minutes 38. For just a great fit and simple laid-back styling, however, this hoody passes every test.
Colour Palette: NAVY MARL PEACOAT DAMSON BURGANDY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Brand Introduction
97
title TEES
British British Inspired. Inspired. Autumn/Winter Autumn/Winter Collection Collection 2013 2013
Product Code: RE0093/TEE
98
MIGHTIER YET
Field Notes British wartime propaganda posters are a favourite source inspiration for our signature tees and sweats, and this design has been adapted from a poster campaign called “Mightier Yet”. The purpose of the message was to inspire Britons to feel reassured by the superior power of our nation’s forces: this image from the series shows a formidable convoy of battleships, above which flies a formation of British aircraft. The copy on the original poster read: MIGHTIER YET! In ships, tonnage and gun-power, the Navies of the British Empire are the most powerful sea force in the world – and another million tons of British warships are building.
Colour Palette: OPTIC WHITE ECRU MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0094/TEE
99
LOT 279
Field Notes The Fairey Barracuda aircraft was a dive bomber – a plane that dived towards its target to provide greater accuracy for the bomb it dropped. With less distance to travel, the better the chance the bomb had to strike its target. Planes would dive at an angle of 45-90 degrees and, upon pull-up, the forces inflicted upon the pilot would be so great they would often suffer G-LOC (loss of consciousness from G-force); controls of dive bomber planes became automated to avoid loss of the aircraft. The exact plane shown here is Fairey Barracuda Mk II of 814 Squadron, Fleet Air Arm flying over HMS Venerable and an attendant destroyer. The typography on the T-shirt is an exact replica of hand sign-writing found on Fuze boxes aboard HMS Belfast.
Colour Palette: OPTIC WHITE GREY MARL BLUE MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0095/TEE
100
FLY CATCHER
Field Notes During the course of the war, air power overtook sea power in terms of strategic importance – but ships continued to play a vital role in attack as carriers of the aircraft. The Fairey Flycatcher shown here was an early British fighter aircraft made by Fairey Aviation and was specifically designed for operation via carriers. Flaps ran the entire edges of both wings which enabled the aircraft to take off with just 46m of deck space, and the easyto-fly, highly-manoeuvrable planes proved popular with pilots. This fantastic image shows a Fairey Flycatcher shortly after take-off from the carrier HMS Eagle circa 1930. And, just in case you were wondering, the Realm & Empire graphic above is a custom typeface inspired by a British wartime cycling sign.
Colour Palette: OPTIC WHITE NIGHT SKY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0096/TEE
101
FULL AHEAD
Field Notes  Production during the Second World War was key to military performance, and many industries switched from manufacturing everyday goods to materials to support the war effort and the military. During the course of the war the Allied countries out-produced the Axis countries in most weapons categories. As an Island, Britain relied heavily on being supplied by shipping and the Royal Navy played a vital role in keeping Britain supplied with food, arms and raw materials. This design has been adapted from a poster that sees a British Naval Officer talking into a speaking tube, with an industrial cog pointing to full production: encouraging industry so that continued support could be given to the navy during the Battle of the Atlantic.
Colour Palette:  OPTIC WHITE ECRU MARL RUSTY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0097/TEE
102
CHURCHILL ABOARD
Field Notes K-class destroyer HMS Kelvin fought in several theatres during the Second World War. In 1944 she also carried Winston Churchill and other dignitaries across the channel during Operation Overlord, code-name for the Battle of Normandy (or D-Day). For this design we’ve chosen a striking image of Churchill in conversation with Field Marshal Sir Alan Brooke, Chief of the Imperial General Staff and his Prime Minister’s foremost military advisor, on board HMS Kelvin. Brooke played an important but not always well-known role in the allies’ victory in 1944. Once again, Churchill is pictured with a characteristic Havana – incidentally, he is also credited with the practice of dunking one in brandy or port.
Colour Palette: OPTIC WHITE BLUE MARL GREY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0098/TEE
103
V FOR VICTORY
Field Notes In 1941, Victor de Laveleye, former Belgian Minister of Justice and director of Belgian/French-speaking broadcasts on the BBC suggested on air that the Belgian people used a V as an emblem for Victory to make the enemy realise he was constantly surrounded by a crowd of citizens ready to exploit his first weakness. The emblematic use of the V symbol quickly spread across Europe and the V for Victory campaign soon became adopted by Churchill himself. Pictures of Churchill making the V-gesture are iconic – but he originally made the sign with his palm facing in, changing to palm-out only when it was explained to him that the former had a very different meaning to the ordinary British public. This Realm & Empire design features an image of Churchill acknowledging the cheering crowds aboard HMS Renown, the battleship on which he sailed from the USA.
Colour Palette: OPTIC WHITE NIGHT SKY NAVY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0100/TEE
104
HMS SHROPSHIRE
Field Notes HMS Shropshire was a Royal Navy country class heavy cruiser awarded the Atlantic 1941 and Arctic 1941 battle honours for her wartime services. Weighing 13,315 tons fullyloaded, 193 metres long and 20 metres wide, she carried up to 1,000 sailors while active, protecting convoys and seeing action around Mogadishu and in the South Atlantic. Her armament included eight 203mm Mk VIII dual guns, four QF 102mm Mk V single AA guns, four 40mm single and four 40mm quad pom-poms, plus two Vickers machine guns and two 533mm torpedo tubes. In this 1941 drawing by Herbert Hastings Williams, a South African architect who served in the Royal Navy, we see a view along Shropshire’s four pom-pom anti-aircraft weapons, the name given to the guns on account of the noise they made while being fired.
Colour Palette: OPTIC WHITE ECRU MARL RUSTY MARL GREY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0105/TEE
105
REALM EMPIRE
Field Notes Vehicles, crates, bags, clothing… whether land, air or sea force, the armed services have a way of keeping everything organised with names and numbers assigned and clearly stamped or stencilled onto everything for straightforward, precise identification and processing. This Realm & Empire design pays homage to the style of typography used in such instances and the style has a definite military sports edge to it – a stylish, classic sweat fit for any purpose.
Colour Palette: OPTIC WHITE BURGUNDY MARL NAVY MARL OLIVE MARL ECRU MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0109/TEE
106
RXE
Field Notes The Realm & Empire team have been preoccupied with all things naval in the months leading up to the launch of the Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Photographs, files, documents and original signage has been pored over and obsessed about by the creative team, who scrutinised every hand-rendered font, traditionally-printed graphic and meticulously-drawn icon they found. This original Realm & Empire design is a tribute to all of our finds during this period and is particularly inspired by the vast number of official stamps we have seen in all kinds of wonderfully-faded inky forms on all kinds of marvellous papers. Here we’ve reinterpreted various designs and details into a single nautical-themed graphic that captures the style and spirit of our lead influence for the whole collection.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL BURGUNDY MARL, OLIVE MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0115/TEE
107
617 SQUADRON
Field Notes No. 617 Squadron RAF was formed in March 1943 with the specific task of breaching dams vital to the German war effort. The team was hand-picked to fly specially-adapted Lancaster Bombers carrying British engineer Barnes Wallis’s innovative bouncing bomb for the daring mission code-named Operation Chastise. The dam-busting raid required expert low-level flying at night and a precise payload drop into the dams whilst under enemy fire. Two dams were successfully breached and this gave the British a much-needed propaganda and morale boost following sustained heavy German bombing attacks at home. Here, the 617 number has been printed onto a limited-edition Realm & Empire tee in acknowledgement of the 70th anniversary of the formation of the famous squadron.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL OLIVE MARL NAVY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0118/TEE
108
WING COMMANDER
Field Notes Wing Commander Guy Penrose Gibson was the first Commanding Officer of 617 Squadron, the RAF’s specialist air division created to undertake the hazardous Dambusters mission in 1943. Affectionately known by his team as the “Arch Bastard”, he led his squadron of Lancaster bombers on the low-flying operation and, having dropped his own bomb, Gibson repeatedly turned back to fly over the Mohne and Eder dams in order to draw enemy fire away from the other attacking Lancasters. Gibson was awarded the Victoria Cross in recognition of his gallantry – not just for the Dambusters raids, but for his leadership and valour demonstrated during many other bombing missions.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL OLIVE MARL BLUE MARL GREY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0101/LONG SLEEVE TEE
109
HMS SHROPSHIRE
Field Notes HMS Shropshire was a Royal Navy country class heavy cruiser awarded the Atlantic 1941 and Arctic 1941 battle honours for her wartime services. Weighing 13,315 tons fullyloaded, 193 metres long and 20 metres wide, she carried up to 1,000 sailors while active, protecting convoys and seeing action around Mogadishu and in the South Atlantic. Her armament included eight 203mm Mk VIII dual guns, four QF 102mm Mk V single AA guns, four 40mm single and four 40mm quad pom-poms, plus two Vickers machine guns and two 533mm torpedo tubes. In this 1941 drawing by Herbert Hastings Williams, a South African architect who served in the Royal Navy, we see a view along Shropshire’s four pom-pom anti-aircraft weapons, the name given to the guns on account of the noise they made while being fired.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL GREY MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0106/LONG SLEEVE TEE
110
REALM EMPIRE
Field Notes Vehicles, crates, bags, clothing… whether land, air or sea force, the armed services have a way of keeping everything organised with names and numbers assigned and clearly stamped or stencilled onto everything for straightforward, precise identification and processing. This Realm & Empire design pays homage to the style of typography used in such instances and the style has a definite military sports edge to it – a stylish, classic sweat fit for any purpose.
Colour Palette: ECRU MARL BURGUNDY MARL OLIVE MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0110/LONG SLEEVE TEE
111
RXE
Field Notes The Realm & Empire team have been preoccupied with all things naval in the months leading up to the launch of the Autumn Winter 2013 collection. Photographs, files, documents and original signage has been pored over and obsessed about by the creative team, who scrutinised every hand-rendered font, traditionally-printed graphic and meticulously-drawn icon they found. This original Realm & Empire design is a tribute to all of our finds during this period and is particularly inspired by the vast number of official stamps we have seen in all kinds of wonderfully-faded inky forms on all kinds of marvellous papers. Here we’ve reinterpreted various designs and details into a single nautical-themed graphic that captures the style and spirit of our lead influence for the whole collection.
Colour Palette: NAVY MARL GREY MARL OLIVE MARL
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0120
112
CLASSIC POLO
Field Notes This season we’ve given our classic Realm & Empire polos an extra vintage feel with a garment-dyed finish. Featuring flat-knit collar and cuffs, robust, 100% heavy cotton piqué, gunmetal finish bar buttons and R&E embroidery on the chest, it’s the perfect garment to dress up or down as the mood takes you – and in great new season colours too: a timeless wardrobe staple.
Colour Palette: THYME GINGER SPICE PEACOAT
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Brand Introduction
113
OUTERWEAR title
British British Inspired. Inspired. Autumn/Winter Autumn/Winter Collection Collection 2013 2013
Product Code: RE0123
114
PEA COAT
Field Notes The pea coat is an enduring and stylish classic believed to have been around since at least the 17th century. The name originates from the Dutch word for a pilot’s jacket pijjakker. Elegant, simple and practical, constructed from wool and double-breasted for warmth with a large collar that can be pulled up to protect the neck from inclement weather, it is the style of overcoat favoured by navies throughout history. Equally stylish and practical on land, Realm & Empire’s fully-lined pea coat is designed true to its classic naval origins, with a 100% wool-cavalry-twill-constructed tailored fit to create a sharp silhouette and impeccably observed details, including wooden buttons, chocolate leather badge and British Millerain wax under-collar and under-pocket-flap trims; an instant winter favourite.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY
Product Code: RE0124
115
PARKA
Field Notes Snipers are the military’s high-precision marksmen, usually operating alone and specially trained in camouflage, field craft, infiltration, reconnaissance and observation. The word originates from soldiers in British India during the 1770s where huntsmen skilled enough to catch the elusive snipe bird were dubbed snipers; thereafter it came to be a word used to describe a particularly sharp shooter. Our precision-designed Parka is based on the shape and structure of a traditional military sniper’s jacket and comes complete with an over-size removable tunnel hood with a full wire peak. A detachable quilted lining allows the wearer to adjust the warmth offered by this unique jacket, made from a coated 100% cotton twill and finished with chest-height hand-warmer pockets, drawstring waist, adjustable cuff fasteners and discreet leather R&E arm badge.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0127
116
BRITISH WAX JACKET
Field Notes Realm & Empire’s outstanding British Wax Jacket continues to go down a storm, so it’s back again for new Autumn Winter wearing in two colourways: two-tone olive and dark-olive, plus an all-new solid-navy. Inspired by Captain RF Scott and based on a traditional expedition jacket, it is beautifully constructed using 100% British Millerain waxed cotton. The jacket is lined and features two patch pockets with additional side hand warmers. Attention to detail is sublime with adjustable studded cuff-tabs, branded wooden buttons, antique brass finish snaps and a chunky twoway zip with leather pulls and hanging loop. Discreet outer leather R&E badging and our woven numbered ID strip on the inside are finishing touches to this remarkable and robust jacket that’s ready for adventure for a long time to come.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0126
117
Artisan Jacket
Field Notes Lightweight, versatile and perfect for cooler-weather layering with its understated, relaxed fit, Realm & Empire's Artisan Jacket lives up to its name in every way. With two new garmentdyed colours introduced for Autumn Winter, this ever-popular jacket is made from European 100% herringbone weave cotton and offers an easy-going vintage look and feel. Details-wise there are three patch pockets, double-stitch seams and rusty gunmetal-finish bar buttons with subtle R/E logo. The artisan’s Artisan Jacket!
Colour Palette: GINGER SPICE FRENCH BLUE COFFEE BEAN
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Brand Introduction
118
KNITWEAR title
British British Inspired. Inspired. Autumn/Winter Autumn/Winter Collection Collection 2013 2013
Product Code: RE0130
119
COMMANDO HAT
Field Notes In 1940, the British army began to form special commando battalions – teams of soldiers trained to operate in combat units under special command. Later spawning other British units including the SAS, SBS and Parachute Regiment, these forces were designed to be highly mobile specialists in surprise raiding and reconnaissance, carrying all they needed for missions that were to be completed in under 36 hours. This British-made Realm & Empire Commando hat is a modern interpretation of the original knitted military-issue style hat worn by commandos and is made from luxurious 100% Merino yarn in dark navy and features a discreet R&E badge.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0128
120
classic Shawl Cardi
Field Notes A good shawl-collar cardigan is an autumn-winter essential in any man’s wardrobe. Not only does the style suggest a debonair laissez-faire-ness, classically exemplified by the likes of McQueen, Connery and Newman, but it’s a practical style to be wearing once the autumnal winds start to pick up. Wear a size to fit snug on the shoulders and team with practically everything – tees, shirts, jackets… it’s such a versatile knit. Our shawl-neck is British made from 100% Merino wool – five-gauge full Milano knit – and features wooden buttons, two patch pockets and a discreet Realm & Empire outer label. Steve, Sean and Paul would definitely approve.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY RUSTICA
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0129
121
Classic Boat Neck
Field Notes Once we had decided to feature knitwear for the first time in a Realm & Empire collection, we knew that we had to deliver something special. And this Realm & Empire boat-neck is a firm favourite amongst the team here. Boat necks were originally designed to be easy to remove, constructed with a wider neck than a crew style knit – handy if the garment got wet. Practicality aside, boat necks just look great on too, and this high-quality 100% Merino wool knit with contrasting chest panel, twin patch pockets, branded wooden buttons and discreet R&E triangle badge is sure to draw the wearer many admiring glances once revealed from under the winter jacket.
Colour Palette: DARK NAVY RUSTICA
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Brand Introduction
122
SHIRT & title trousers
British British Inspired. Inspired. Autumn/Winter Autumn/Winter Collection Collection 2013 2013
Product Code: RE0122
123
Captain Shirt
Field Notes The reason some shirts look great is all down to the cut, and Realm & Empire’s Captain Shirt is one great-cut shirt. Inspired by classic naval styles, the silhouette is sharp, and thoughtful details ensure this is a go-to wardrobe staple for the season. Cleverly designed to be worn and look good whether tucked or untucked, the shirt is made from densely constructed 100% cotton twill and garment dyed for a vintage look and feel. A single breast pocket with pocket flap, rusty gunmetal bar buttons, and double-button cuffs complement the military-smart look. And a stylised placket and shaped front hemline – plus vintage labelling and subtle badging at the side seam hem – finish a shirt fit for any captain’s hanger.
Colour Palette: INDIGO
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Product Code: RE0125
124
Infantry Pant
Field Notes Inspired by military combat trousers, these navy Realm & Empire Infantry Pants are made from a herringbone weave cotton. With a contemporary wide leg fit and wide waistband, we’ve added our famous rusty gunmetal bar buttons for the fly, as well as buttons to the waistband as an option to wear them with braces. Great with a pair of boots and our pea coat or British wax jacket.
Colour Palette: FRENCH BLUE
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013
Brand Introduction
125
title
British Inspired. Autumn/Winter Collection 2013