Realm & Empire
Spring—Summer 16
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Our Inspiration RE0409 Lightweight Wool Jumper; RE0375 Jungle Shorts
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At Realm & Empire, a fresh new season begins with a new field trip to IWM (Imperial War Museums), the museum that provides the incredible source of inspiration for our brand. With a journal in our back pocket, a camera to hand and a genuine enthusiasm for scouting out interesting pieces of the past, inspiration is sought and investigated sifting through archived garments, documents, artefacts and photographs, made accessible to us by IWM, as references for our next collection. It’s a unique collaboration that sees an archive of such overwhelming historical importance creatively interpreted by our own team into contemporary, stylish menswear collections. The authority of IWM ensures all Realm & Empire apparel is fundamentally inspired by real history and British heritage. Whilst only a relatively small percentage of IWM’s archive is on full view in the public museums, Realm & Empire has access to almost all of it. IWM was founded in 1917 when the War Cabinet approved a proposal by Sir Alfred Mond MP for the creation of a national war museum to record the events still taking place in the First World War. Since that time, its remit has grown and it now tells the story of all conflicts in which Britain or Commonwealth forces have been involved since 1914. IWM’s five branches include the transformed IWM London, IWM North in Manchester’s vibrant Quayside and IWM Duxford in Cambridgeshire, which is set to re-open the doors to its brilliant American Air Museum, after a complete refurbishment. Churchill War Rooms is housed in Churchill’s secret headquar ters below Whitehall and the Second World War cruiser HMS Belfast is a London landmark on the River Thames. It is considered a leading world authority on conflict and its impact. When Sir Alfred Mond originally addressed the King on behalf of the museum committee in June 1920, he said the museum “[is] not a monument of military glory, but a record of toil and sacrifice”. We see it also as a museum of the human qualities of purpose, practicality and steadfastness as well as the eccentricity and unique humour that has underpinned our country’s past – and, more often than not, with the great sense of style and design from which we are privileged and grateful to take inspiration for our collections.
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Colophon IWM images used in the logbook are shown cropped. The originals can be seen at IWM.org.uk
Copyright ©2011, 2015 Realm & Empire® www.realmandempire.com
Page 11: Matilda tanks on the move outside the perimeter of Tobruk, 18 November 1941.. © IWM (E 6600).
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise indicated, all material in this publication is copyrighted. No part of these pages, either text or images may be used for any purpose without written permission of the publisher.
Page 12 : Montgomery wearing his beret with two cap badges. © Public Domain. Page 17: A posed close-up view of a Chevrolet truck and its three man crew in the Western Desert. The gunner beside the driver is manning an Italian Breda machine gun, while the soldier in the back is ready with the Lewis gun. © IWM (E 12380).
Table of Contents
Acknowledgments Special thanks to IWM Duxford for their kind permission to shoot at their wonderful museum. www.iwm.org.uk
Page 17: A Long Range Desert Group truck halted while its crew enjoy a midday break in the shade beneath the vehicle, July 1942. This shade was sometimes shared by exhausted and migrating birds. Corporal Read, Medical Orderly, is on top of the truck. It was essential to stop at midday in the summer because the shadow of the sun-compass needle was too short to give an accurate reading © IWM (HU 71344)
Graphic Design Design and layout by Waste Studio. www.wastestudio.com
Front cover image: British Soldiers inspecting a captured German SdKfz 222 armoured car 24 June 1941 © IWM (E3776).
Our Inspiration
Chapter 01
2—3
Ridin' the Storm
Chapter 02
6—7
All Mapped Out
Chapter 03
8—9
Operation Crusader
Chapter 04
10—11
'Monty'
Chapter 05
12—13
Authentic Artistry
Chapter 06
14—15
The Scorpions!
Chapter 07
16—17
Field Notes
Chapter 08
18—28
SS16 Photoshoot
Chapter 09
29—62
Typefaces Page 20: LRDG Chevrolet 30cwt trucks going through a pass in the Western Desert, 25 May 1942. © IWM (E 12384)
Headers: Apercu, Colophon-Foundry.
Page 21: Lieutenant General B L Montgomery, General Officer Commanding Eighth Army, watches the beginning of the German retreat from El Alamein from the turret of his Grant Tank. He is wearing his famous tank beret. © IWM (E 18980).
Bodycopy: Aaux Next, Positype Foundry. Folios & Margain Notes: Times New Roman, Monotype Foundry.
Page 22: The Western Desert 1942: A sandstorm in the desert: a soldier battling his way to his tent. © IWM (CBM 1358).
Photography Page 24: Rampant Boar Insignia - Formed in the Western Desert as part of 8th Army and fought against the Afrika Korps from Alamein to Tobruk. XXX Corps returned to the UK early in 1944 to join 21 Army Group for D-Day and Overlord, the invasion of Europe. After the war it became one of the Corps Districts of the British Army on the Rhine covering Hanover, with its HQ at Nienburg. © IWM (INS 7207).
Model: Jon Hosking / Next Models Photographer: Damien Van Der Vlist. Art Direction: Waste Studio. Hair & Makeup: Martina Lattanzi. Styling: Norman Hayes Location: IWM Duxford.
Page 24: Two men of a Long Range Desert Group patrol, dressed in greatcoats, make use of available cover while on a road watch. © IWM (E 12434).
Print Printed and bound in Great Britain, by Mortons Print on 55 gsm Palm 100% recycled paper, 64pp.
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Back cover image: Three Long Range Desert Group 30-cwt Chevrolet trucks, surrounded by desert. © IWM (E 12385).
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Spring Summer 16: Ridin’ The Storm Sand-blasted and sun-bleached, the Spring Summer 2016 narrative takes us back to the desert dunes of North Africa in 1941. The collection traces the journey of the British Army’s pioneering Long Range Desert Group and captures the essence of the legendary 7th
RE0395 Desert Rat Tee RE0376 Combat Shorts
Armoured Division – the famous Desert Rats. Design details are informed by the functionality and practicality of utility uniforms, all authenticated by reference points gathered in the IWM archives and cleverly adapted to incorporate today’s modcons. Keep a lookout for garment-washed combat overshirts and an iconic Montgomery summer workwear blazer with re-purposed utility pockets... just the right size for your iPad! The graphic cornerstone and signature twist for the collection comes in the form of a brand new camouflage print – a design inspired and adapted from a silk Second World War escape map of the desert, typical of those found sewn into the berets, boot soles and such like for use by escapees! The Rampant Boar, Jerboa and Scorpion insignias of XXX Corps, the Desert Rats and the LRDG also feature throughout the graphic story. Realm & Empire aficionados know that this clothing is not just about visual appeal – it shows appreciation for our forefathers, our history and the unique craft and design skills that have been developed over many years, all carefully infused with contemporary design and an unwavering attention to detail. Enjoy the collection...
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All Mapped Out Whether it’s a fragment of floral wallpaper salvaged from a First World War dugout or textures derived from tyre-tracks created by LRDG Chevrolet trucks in the desert, at R&E, we’re
RE0371 Combat Overshirt RE0378 S/S Archive Shirt RE0374 A13 Utility Waistcoat; RE0376 Combat Shorts
always intrigued by thought-provoking archive finds that are just waiting to be translated into brilliant, contemporary prints for our garb, and incredibly this season, it’s a simple map that has captured our attention! Forming the graphic cornerstone of the collection, inspiration for our brand new ‘map camo’ – a superb camouflage print – is pulled from a Second World War escape map which was found sewn into the beret of a member of the Long Range Desert Group. The British were the first to use silk or cloth maps during the Second World War. In the 1940s, the British Military Intelligence unit, known as MI9, began issuing silk or cloth maps to help familiarise pilots and navigators with terrain features and to assist servicemen, who found themselves caught and captured behind enemy lines. The purpose of using cloth rather than paper was ingeniously functional. It meant that maps could be folded and refolded silently and without damage, whilst the durability of the fabric meant it could withstand immersion in water and could be discreetly folded into a boot or cigarette packet at a moment’s notice… an important attribute, for a prisoner in search of escape! It certainly did the job. It’s been said that half of the Allied troops that escaped from enemy territory, used variations on these maps. Now, whilst we can’t guarantee that our awesome print will help you escape any tricky situations, our winning combination of bold design and ingenious functionality, will certainly help you evade any serious style slumps this summer!
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Operation Crusader When Italy declared war on 10 June 1940, the Italian Army in Libya threatened the vital Suez Canal in British-occupied Egypt. The new battlefield was characterised by huge distances, difficult terrain and an inhospitable climate. Italian forces attacked Egypt on 13 September. General O’Connor’s Western Desert Force was outnumbered, but his commander-in-chief, General Wavell, ordered a surprise attack at Sidi Barrani three days later. By 9 February 1941, O’Connor had advanced hundreds of miles and taken 130,000 prisoners. With their Italian ally reeling, Germany sent General Rommel and the Afrika Korps to North Africa, just as Churchill had ordered most of Wavell’s troops to Greece. Rommel attacked in March, driving the British back to Egypt. Wavell was replaced by General Auchinleck as commander-in-chief, Middle East, on 1 July 1941, and the Western Desert Force was reformed as the Eighth Army. The British launched Operation ‘Crusader’ on 18 November to relieve the besieged port of Tobruk. Both sides suffered heavily and Rommel withdrew to re-equip. On 21 January 1942, he counter-attacked, defeating the British at Gazala and Bir Hacheim, and taking Tobruk and over 30,000 prisoners. Defeated again at Mersa Matruh, the Eighth Army withdrew to El Alamein, causing panic in Cairo and the Mediterranean Fleet to evacuate Alexandria. After a German attack on 1st July, General Bernard Montgomery arrived to command the British Eighth Army. In the end, Montgomery’s squad managed to hold Rommel at Alam Halfa, culminating in the pivotal Battle of El Alamein – a momentous moment in the desert campaign and allies’ overall victory!
Matilda tanks on the move outside the perimeter of Tobruk, 18 November 1941. © IWM (E 6600)
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Monty: Master of the Battlefield
Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery – ‘Monty’ as he became known during the Second World War – was one of Britain’s most successful military commanders of the Twentieth Century. In 1940 Monty commanded an infantry division during the evacuation of Dunkirk and in 1942 he led the Eighth Army to victory at the Second Battle of El Alamein, which changed the tide in the North African campaign. For Britain, this was a major turning point in the war. Churchill famously wrote “before Alamein we never had a victory, after Alamein we never had a defeat”.
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Authentic Artistry In a world which favours ‘quicker and cheaper’ over authentic artistry, at Realm & Empire we pride ourselves on fastidious design and careful attention to every last detail. Fabrics, cuts, silhouettes, finishes and branding details all come under the scrutiny of our design team and garment technicians who expertly appraise each and every piece, every step of the way. This season we diligently researched utility functionality on military apparel so that genuine historical detail is woven all the way through to the last stitch on the last button and label in the Realm & Empire range. This season, the practicality of original desert uniforms is brought bang up-to-date with special features such as underarm ventilation, large bellowed pockets re-worked to fit an iPad and internal headphone holes built into hoods – a trait inspired by a WW2 ground-crew smock. We’ve sourced some of the finest fabrics from across the world, then applied a garment-washed processing for exceptional softness and an authentic vintage feel. As always, all our knitwear is manufactured right here in England: more specifically, the Midlands, a part of the country traditionally associated with knitwear production. Every garment features a discreet shuttle-loom back neck label together with our ID label that gives a unique number to each and every piece. Outerwear features our signature R/E logo badge - the triangular design is based on our military signage finds and has a splendidly astute reference to vexillology, (that’s the study and collection of flags to you and me!).
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RE0386 Desert Rat Shirt; RE0374 A13 Utility Waistcoat
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The Scorpions! Non Vi Sed Arte Not by Strength by Guile Motto (unofficial), Long Range Desert Group The British Army Long Range Desert Group (LRDG) was formed in Egypt, June 1940, originally with men from New Zealand, but ultimately comprising no more than 350 volunteers drawn from British and Commonwealth regiments. The LRDG was a highlyspecialised, elite unit assigned the perilous task of patrolling the North African desert in specially equipped Chevrolet trunks and performing clandestine reconnaissance missions far behind enemy lines. The commander of the German Afrika Corps, Field Marshal Erwin Rommel admitted that the LRDG “caused us more damage than any other British unit of equal strength”. Throughout the War, the patrol continually demonstrated an unparalleled aptitude and perseverance, playing a vital role in the success of the allied desert campaigns, which is why this season, their story plays a starring role in the Realm & Empire SS16 narrative! Keep a lookout for superb all-over print sweatshirt featuring the tremendous scorpion motif that we discovered on an original LRDG formation badge. Designed by Gunner Grimsey, the circlet of the emblem was said to represent the wheels on which the unit relied and the scorpion was both typical of the desert environment and of the “stings” which it could inflict upon its enemy. An incredible Long Range Desert Patrol jacket, which taps into the group’s ingenuity and diligent attention to detail with the addition of smart technical features and a contemporary shemagh scarf complete the look.
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A posed close-up view of a Chevrolet truck and its three man crew in the Western Desert. The gunner beside the driver is manning an Italian Breda machine gun, while the soldier in the back is ready with the Lewis gun. ©IWM (E 12830)
A Long Range Desert Group truck halted while its crew enjoy a midday break in the shade beneath the vehicle, July 1942. This shade was sometimes shared by exhausted and migrating birds. Corporal Read, Medical Orderly, is on top of the truck. It was essential to stop at midday in the summer because the shadow of the sun-compass needle was too short to give an accurate reading. ©IWM (HU 71344)
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Contacts
UK Pablo Holland Egomark / London +44 (0)7813 882 919 Pablo.holland@egomark.co.uk Italy Coolness Milano Brand Ambassador Info@coolnessmilano.com International and other enquiries Cherilyn Charlton Cherilyn@realmandempire.com
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