PAPER
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INDEX
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The Swedish Fashion Wonder
Mikael Schiller&Jonny Johansson
ACNE overview
Target and Position
AD campaingn
Blue is green
Editorial
Web-site
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Det svensk modeundret” The Swedish Fashion Wonder “
D
uring the last ten years,
cept because allowed the fashion
media has been noteworthy fo- establishment
abroad.
Swed-
cused on Swedish ready-to-wear la- ish fashion is considered to be bels, who has been awarded world- trend-sensitive,
functional
and
wide and numerous of Swedish price-worthy. All those elements clothing retailers have seen merge in the concept“ Less is more”, an exceptional growth. This but this doesn’t mean that there is phenomena is called, by press,
any lack of creativity.
“Det svensk modeundret”—The Swedish fashion has a reputation of Swedish Fashion Wonder—.
high quality as well as high social
What makes these brands so and environmental responsibility. alluring is the blend between Sustainability has become a natural high design and low price typical of and distinctive part of the Swedish Swedish culture, this is a key con-
approach to fashion.
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Mikael Schiller has a masters degree from the Stockholm School of Economics. Before joining Acne Studios in 2001., he had a brief career as a fireworks entrepreneur, psychology teacher and investment manager. Now Mikael Schilleris the executive chairman and co-owner of Acne Studios. When he started into Acne the systems, logistics and production, it was not great at all, because it was very creatively driven. The company was on the verge of bankruptcy Acne Studios fashion house started EUR 1m to over EUR 10m turnover in 13 years
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Jonny Johansson is a co-founder and creative director of Swedish apparel company Acne. Johansson founded the company in 1996 as part of creative collective. Johansson was inspirited from the Warhol Factory, a creative collective producing furniture, music and film, with fashion almost an afterthought. Acne
Studios
fashion
line was born one year later.“When we started we never said we wanted to be a streetwear brand or a ready-towear brand, we just said we wanted to do fashion.He also founded with Thomas Persson the biannual publication Acne Paper.
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time they have bravely entered all kinds of industries. Advertising, design, commercial film production, feature films, fashion, tv-formats, online games, toys, web production, mobile phone apps. The
firm
branched into fashion trough an “accident”. The which stands for— ambition to
cofounder/Creative
Direc-
create novel expression—
tor Jonny Johansson created,
Acne is a multidisciplinary
in 1997, one hundred pairs of
family of companies where art
promotional blue-jeans char-
and industry meet.
acterized by red stitching and
“We are an integrated pro-
gave them away to friends and
duction company. We create
family, and clients one year later.
digital experiences, commer-
Thus began his rise.
cials, branded content, games, tv
“Soon, editorials from Wallpa-
& features as well as our own
per and French Vogue turned
products and brands in any
up.” We were not prepared at
combination, shape or form.
all” Johansson during an in-
This is our work”
terview
(Wall street journal
The company was founded in
March 15 ,2013)
Stockholm in 1996, since that
“By the early noughties, Acne
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had officially blipped on to the fashion radar”.(Lauren Cochrane,The Guardian, Tuesday 25 June 2013) Soon the brand started to deliver a complete full supply that covered men and wome readyto-wear, footwear, accessories and denim.
Autumn
2005,
#1 The main women’s Spring/
“THE CITY”
Summer and Fall/Winter collections are presented twice a year at Paris Fashion Week.
their item-flown and feared
The women’s Resort and Pre-
that retailers would’t merchan-
Fall collections are presented in
dise properly their product
New York and men’s main col-
This hesitancy has dissolved
lections are presented twice a
now Acne is sold in the most
year in Paris.
famous department store as
“I think we are going to do
Barneys NY, Bergdof Good-
about €100 million [turnover]
man, Isatan, Harrods and Le
this year,” 2012
Bon Merché.
When the big department
Now Acne studios sells its prod-
stores start courting Acne, the
uct though 650 retailsotre in 40
leadership was reluctant to the
country all over the world, with
idea of not being in control of
30 concept store in Paris, Tokyo
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Londo Paris Stockholm What makes different Acne Studios from the other fashion brands is its revulsion toward traditional forms of marketing advertising, choosing to publish a biannual mtagazine called Acne Paper. Acne Paper fist issue was printed out in 2005 with the only purpose to make real the concept of the company it-self where art and industry meet ,connecting and linking all the creative disciplines such as art, fashion, photography, design, architecture, academia, and culture merging them in a single magazine. Each issue of Acne Paper focuses on a key theme with the purpose of representing all creative disciplines around it, and in addition to the fashion and art portfolios, it holds extensive interviews, essays and articles that illuminate the given theme from different angles
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Its trademark pink, which covers all its shopping bags, merchandising and stationery
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B
“ We don’t like being commercial”
asing on these few wards is possible to draw up the target of the company.
Acne’s customers represent a niche, It brackets all that persons involved or interested into creative field. What makes these group of creative people different from the other, is their capacity to look over, characterized by a more open and wide mind, given by creativity and culture which provides a broader view. Acne’s niche would not be classified as “normal person” in terms of being “mass” but they desire, want, but above all need to be “ un-normal” in terms of being out of the normality, “different”. And it doest necessarily mean being strange and extravagant. This is what Acne Studios does, matching the new trend with classical and liner style typical of Sweden The color palettes used in the collections reflect the purity and urban style of the brand
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underling by the use of neutral tones, gently touched by the use of bright and vivid color accents, defining the season. The products are characterized by an high-quality material with a medium-high price, for reflecting the exclusiveness of products. These features, quality fabrics and craftsmanship provide by the firm, set up an high price level, accordingly to that, an other characteristic related to Acne customers are established, this is their middle-high power of purchase.
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Simplicity/ Modernity/ Urban/ Comfort/Style
F
or both collections Acne Jeans
and Acne Collection, the communication campaigns are built on monochromatic tones or on different shades of a single color. What makes those
adver-
tising
cam-
paigns similar one to each-other is the lack of background. Without having a specific
sceneries
or loca tions, emphasis is placed on the models pose.
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D
enim production process is known for being
pollutant. All the steps required to create a pare of jeans seriously harmful to health of our planet. Now laws for a safety production have become more severe, but the damage that has been done during the past decade is huge. Firms located in China (the largest producer in the world) Turkey and Bangladesh churn out as many as 5 billion jeans per years. But what worries, in not only the massive production and pollutions produced but as well the conditions in which the employers of those establishment are forced to work. Treatment processes extremely harmful, highly dangerous and polluting if not treated with suitable processes. Poor health and social protection of employees, and a massive use of chemicals and water.
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BLUE B
asing on what is said above, the
idea consist into create a small denim collection, composed by a hundred limited edition blue denim item, for both genders man and women.
This brainchild is inspired by the famous anecdote that had putted ACNE Studios into forefront of fashion in the end of the 90’s. What makes difference between the previous collection and the newest one are the stitching, in stead of red, that had characterized the 90’s, the ideas is to leave the red color, and replace with green, and all the meaning that carries with it. This ideas just for remarking the eco-message that is not anymore a way of thinking, related to a niche, but is becoming a broadly way of living. People nowadays are more concerned about
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i
s
GREEN
tions, but are still are a minority. The
goal that ACNE wants to achieve by this capsule collation is making consumers much more involved on their impact on the earth. These limited edition will be called Blue is Green, the jeans will be available only online, this logistic choice is directly liked with environment protection, avoiding pollution of transportation. The jeans capsule collection will be launched during the first day of EXPO, first of may 2015, Italy. EXPO is the world faire, the biggest events all over the world which has as one of the main theme “environmental sustainability”.All the money earn, will be given to charity, towards the cost of cleaning up some areas, where pollution from bad waste disposal related to jean’s production.
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A
CNE’s blue is green collation has just one aim, making people more concern
about their consumptions. This means that shots as well have to embody the soul of the product, it has not to be focused on the fashion face, but has to be provocative, letting people see the negative side of jeans production. Through this idea ACNE is not going to sell a new hotting limited edition denim collation, but is going to deliver the message across it.
Those photos embodies perfectly what ANCE should not do. These picture try to capture the consumers’ attention and drive it to jeans. ACNE editorials should take consumers attention as well, but drive it t not to jeans purchases but to the address behind.
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Editorial
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A complaint collection. T
hose new type of jeans have the
ACNE editorial will be built up on real photos, but re-shoot with models.
goal to make customers more concern The photos which are selected for the about their purchases, this means that editorial are taken from a reportage done the editorial let people know about jeans by the photographer Justin Jin, named production and the conceguences of it. “Mightnight Blue Based on this, the future ACNE editorial In an old brick warehouse in a Chinese for the capsule collection: Blue is Green boomtown, workers scrub thousands of takes its inspiration from some picture jeans before dawn.The machines they use of United color Benetton advertising to remove layers of fabric shoot particles camping, made by the italian photograph of lung-clogging blue dust into the air. Oliviero Toscani and by James Mollison,
In an adjacent part of town, their boss sits among fellow factory owners in a restau-
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rant, ready for another toast: To the milThe pictures have to be as closed as pos-
lionaires.
sible to the real one. The historic cloth of workers, blue jeans The Light, the set, poses, hair style. and now become worn-out not through make up. Also the models have to remind rugged labour, but industrial distressing. the protagonist of Justin Jin photos, for The process is outsourced to countries this reason the models who are chosen for like China, where cheap wages and lax
the shoots are Chinese.
environmental controls allowed the rapid growth of a labour-intensive industry drenched in toxic chemicals.ĂŽ < Justin Jin Photographer. Director. Writer. Explorer. 2008 > The make-up has to be natural and imperceptible, because the protagonists of the photos are not the models themselves, but the environment in them. The editorial try to underline the strictly relation between the two parties, the models whose represent the fascinating side of this world and the most shock side represented by workers.
In the next two pages are shown the phots chosen from the reportage done by Justin Jin, the one who will be used for the editorial shoots.
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Models Liu Wen Nationality: China
Haoun Xiang Nationality: China
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Web-site
The web-site as the editorial has the purpose to inform the customers. It will be very simple and easy, it will reflect the image of the brand sober, clean and linear. On the website will be explained the problem related to jeans production, than the idea com in from the brand to let people more informed and more concerned about their purchase. The a section will be dedicated to the reportage made by the photographer Justin Jin for documenting the real work condition in the firms. http://rebeccabelloli.wordpress.com/
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References
Fashion editorials.com [online] < http://www.fashioneditorials.com/editorial-exclusive-veronika-vwilhelmina-la-by-ted-emmons-for-fe/ > [8th december 2014] Interviewmagazine [online] < http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/jonny-johansson/ > [8th december 2014] Acnestudios [online] < http://www.acnestudios.com/ > [8th december 2014] Vogue [online] <http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/acne > [8th december 2014] Acnestudios [online] <http://www.acnestudios.com/about > [8th december 2014] Business of Fashion [online] < http://www.businessoffashion.com/jonny-johansson > [8th december 2014] The Wall Street Journal [online] < http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB100014241278 87324678604578340402927911328 > [8th december 2014] The Guardian [online] < http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/25/acne-10things-fashion-brand http://www.acneproduction.com/about > [8th december 2014] The
Wall
Street
Journal
[online]
<http://online.wsj.com/articles/
SB126713970005151659?gclid=CI6DhNqSs8ECFUjMtAodVlwAkw >
[8th december
2014] Sweden Sverige [online] <https://sweden.se/culture/swedish-fashion-from-catwalk-tosidewalk/> http://www.visitsweden.com/sweden/things-to-do/shopping/swedish-fashion/> [8th december 2014] The New York Times Fashion and Stile [online] <http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/15/ fashion/15ACNE.html?pagewanted=all&_r=1&> [8th december 2014] International Visual [online] < https://internationalvisual.wordpress.com/tag/acne/ > [8th december 2014]
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Acne Production [online] < http://www.acneproduction.com/about > [8th december 2014] Acnepaper [online] < http://www.acnepaper.com/about/ > [8th december 2014] SOMA [online] <http://www.somamagazine.com/taking-care-of-acne/> [8th december 2014] Financial Times, Global and social evens [online] < https://www.ft-live.com/ft-events/ ft-business-of-luxury-summit-2014/speakers/mikael-schiller/2550 > [8th december 2014] Business of fashion [online] <http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/07/mikael-schiller-on-acnes-unexpected-journey-acne-jeans-kering.html> [8th december 2014] Justin Jin [online] <http://www.justinjin.com/ > [8th december 2014] how products are made [online] < http://www.madehow.com/Volume-1/Blue-Jeans.html > [8th december 2014] Ftape, Acne studios ss 14 ad campaign [online] < http://ftape.com/media/?p=74708 > [8th december 2014] Models. com [online] < http://models.com/models/liu-wen > [8th december 2014] Models. com [online] < http://models.com/models/Hao-Yun-Xiang > [8th december 2014] Excite/ moda e bellezza [online] < http://lui.excite.it/i-piu-famosi-stilisti-svedesi.html > [8th december 2014] Freshness
[online
]
<
http://www.freshnessmag.com/2013/07/01/acne-stu-
dios-spring-summer-2014-menswear-collection/ > [8th december 2014] Kenton [online] < http://kentonmagazine.com/guess-goes-on-a-roadtrip-for-their-fall2013-ad-campaign/ > [8th december 2014]
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