Cultural and Historical Studies: Fashion Dissertation by Rebekah Elza Ong Lin

The problem of plastic packaging waste in the fashion industry- Examining potential solutions to reduce their impact. Word Count: 4315 Rebekah Elza Ong Lin | ONG17515994 Ba (HONS) Fashion Design and Development | Final Year 20/21 | CYP Tutor: Thomas Turner London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London

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“I, Rebekah Elza Ong Lin, certify that: This is an original and individual piece of work and that no part of this has been written by anyone else; • I have acknowledged (appropriately referenced using the Harvard Referencing system) all sources and citations; • No section of this essay has been plagiarized; • This work has not been submitted for any other assessment”

4 CONTENTS • STATEMENT ORIGINALITYOF • ACKNOWLEDGEMENT • INTRODUCTION • METHODOLOGY • PLASTIC PACKAGING IS PROBLEMATIC • OVERCONSUMPTION OF FASHION GENERATES PLASTIC PACKAGING WASTE • ELIMINATE UNNECESSARY PLASTIC THROUGHPACKAGINGREDESIGN AND INNOVATION • EXTENDING THE LIFECYCLE OF FASHION PACKAGING THROUGH REUSABLE OR RECYCLED PACKAGING • ALTERNATIVE PACKAGING MATERIALS CONVENTIONALTOCOMPOSTABLELIKEPLASTICSREPLACEPLASTICS • CONCLUSION • BIBLIOGRAPHY • IMAGE BIBLIOGRAPHY • APPENDIX (1 3)

INTRODUCTION

The fashion industry as we know it is criticised for generating large amounts of waste and pollution The sheer quantities of unwanted and unusable textile and garments an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste is created every year have become a challenge for environmental sustainability (Dean, 2020). Moreover, fashion dye houses are notorious for dumping their chemical waste, polluting waterbodies with hazardous chemicals such as lead and mercury which are harmful to marine and human life. This is explicitly shown in the 2017 documentary ‘Blue River’, which highlights the fashion industry’s destruction of rivers caused by the chemical pollution from textile factories (Ranson, 2020). The World Economic Forum (2020) estimates that the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of humanity’s carbon emissions and 20% of all industrial water pollution world wide. The evidence for the industry’s unsustainable practices demonstrates the importance of change.

The essay will go on to explore the problems associated with plastic packaging in fashion and suggest ways of reducing its impact on natural systems Discouraging

One facet of fashion often overlooked is the generation of packaging waste. According to Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2016), 26% of annual plastic production in the fashion industry is used for plastic packaging, of which 72% is discarded. Plastic packaging has permeated the fashion supply chain from polybag sleeves to plastic mailers for online purchases, plastic carrier bags and return label stickers (Brown, 2020). This study seeks to examine fashion plastic packaging waste in relation to the concepts of sustainability, environmentalism and consumerism in fashion Sustainability in fashion is a complex concept, with several different interpretations. This study will use Fletcher’s definition of sustainable fashion, which is “fashion and textiles that fosters ecological integrity, social quality and human flourishing through products, action, relationships and practices of use.” (2014, XVIII). Sustainable fashion packaging will be examined in depth using relevant theory and primary and secondary sources

overconsumption of garments and reducing packaging waste is discussed in relation to consumer culture. Next, the elimination of unnecessary plastic packaging through redesign will be examined with case studies of ‘Ultra-light Down’ from Uniqlo and ‘Lite2go’ from Knoend

Extending fashion packaging life cycle by recycling or reusing is discussed in relation to adopters ASOS and Graye Studio. Finally, alternative packaging materials such as compostable plastics from producers such as Avani and TIPA will be considered as possible alternatives for conventional plastics.

METHODOLOGY

The study comprises both primary and secondary research methodologies. A digital research approach was chosen due to the unforeseen circumstances stemming from the 2019 Coronavirus pandemic. Secondary research into relevant academic sources, documentaries and an exhibition at the Art Science Museum was conducted. Primary research in the form of semi constructed interviews was conducted virtually (see appendix). The interviews aim to encourage a concentrated dialogue that is helpful in collecting information in the context of the research question, analysing plastic packaging waste and finding feasible solutions (Interviews Toolkit, 2021). These virtual interviews were conducted over ‘Google E meet’, with an outline of questions sent over a week in advance.

The interviewees are representatives from Raeburn and Graye Studio, two fashion companies, one an early adopter of sustainable packaging and the other in transition to sustainable packaging, as well as TIPA, a renowned sustainable packaging supplier. This was conducted with the intention to gain insight from the perspective of a fashion retailer and the product supplier. It is important to note that the research process was affected by the ‘COVID 19’ pandemic, with all primary research interviews to be done online in varying time zones There

7 was the challenge in obtaining interviews with sustainable packaging suppliers, with some suppliers declining to participate at the last moment. However, information available on supplier websites and other secondary resources were helpful in the overall analysis.

PLASTIC PACKAGING AND DISPOSAL IS PROBLEMATIC Plastic, a versatile material prized for its durability and malleability is widely used for fashion packaging Annually, 180 billion polybags are used and discarded by the fashion industry (Fashion United, 2019) Despite the detrimental effects of plastic waste on the environment, why does the apparel industry continue to use plastic packaging? The answer lies simply with its unrivalled functionality. Plastics can be easily moulded into any size or shape cheaply (Planet or Plastic, 2020), and is useful in protecting and elevating the appearance of retailed fashion garments Also, its waterproof and transparent qualities allow garments to be processed efficiently and safe from moisture and damage. The downfall of this ubiquitous material lies in its disposal and detrimental effects on the natural environment. Ecological systems are impacted by the long life cycle of such plastic packaging, which is predicted to take anywhere from 20 500 years to degrade naturally (WWF, 2018). This is even more alarming due to the sheer numbers of 1 trillion plastic bags used worldwide annually (National Geography, 2020). The mass use of plastic packaging in fashion contributes to the floating graves of plastic pollution collecting in the oceans, demonstrating how the unbridled consumption of fashion and therefore plastic fashion packaging waste threatens our environment (Brooks et al., 2017) With the rise of fast fashion, there has been a pattern of rapid purchasing and discarding of garments, shortening its lifespan to less than a season (Slater, 2000) Consumers’ relationship with clothing is marked with “instantaneity” and as described by Jenss, turns fashion garments into “instant commodities” (Jenss, 2017) This linear ‘take,

make and dispose’ fashion model means unwanted garments end up as waste, be it from a brand’s unsold dead stock or consumer discard piles (Khusainova, 2019). Similarly, used plastic packaging is seen as a disposable commodity, and this is problematic due to the disposal methods for plastic waste. Currently, conventional plastic packaging waste (and other plastic waste) is either buried or incinerated. Besides taking a long time to degrade naturally, there is also the danger of microplastics leaking into our waters Microplastics here refer to plastic particles smaller than 5 millimetres, so tiny that it can be easily missed by the human eye (National Geographic Society, 2020). Over time, these microplastic waste accumulate in our oceans, toxic to marine life and pose a danger to human life upon re entry into the food chain. Research by GESAMP (2015) has found microplastics in 114 aquatic species, with many common seafood choices. A microscopic photograph taken of a water flea at the Art Science Museum exhibition ‘Planet or Plastic’ shows how prevalent microplastics (highlighted in blue) survive in microorganisms.

Fig 1 ‘Picturing Microplastics’ spotted in a water flea that is only 3 millimetres long (Ogonowski and Schur, 2014)

OVERCONSUMPTION

Unable to distinguish plastic waste from food, microplastics are damaging to creatures like turtles and birds by “blocking digestive tracts” and “reduce growth and reproductive output” (Royte, 2018). At present, there is not enough scientific evidence for the effects of microplastics on humans, with the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation concluding “people (are) consuming a negligible amount of microplastics” (FAO, 2017). But the exposure to microplastics puts people at risk of health issues they could cause. At the current rate of plastic leakage into the ocean, it is projected that there will be more plastics than fish by 2050 (The New Plastics Economy, 2016). More needs to be done to tackle this crisis before it is too late.

OF FASHION GENERATES PLASTIC PACKAGING WASTE

Fashion production and the volume of consumption have increased greatly with the rise of fast fashion. The World Economic Forum (2020) reports that clothing production has roughly doubled since 2000. Fashion companies in Europe have increased collection productions from two per year in 2000 to five in 2011. Fast fashion e retailer Boohoo, which releases up to 200 new designs a day on its website (Mau, 2015). However, as consumers purchased 60% more garments in 2014 than in 2000, they only retained these garments for half as long, hence around 85% of all textiles are discarded each year (WEF, 2020). According to Maynard (2013:538), the influx of fast fashion products creates a sense of limitlessness, and customers are left with a feeling of urgency to buy on impulse so as not to miss out. This is a result of a consumerist culture that is dominated by growth. Thorpe explains that one's class and place in a consumer society is defined by what one purchases, eventually leading everyone to conform with the market's commercial and ideological pressures (Thorpe, 2021, as cited in Fletcher, 2017). This is important when considering efforts towards creating more

10 sustainable fashion garments and packaging, because consumers buying sustainable alternatives are still locked in a replenishment loop. The hyper-consumption of fashion results in the consumption and disposal of widely used plastic packaging, which lasts a fraction of the lifespan of the clothing purchased. Traditionally, this plastic packaging plays a crucial part in the transit processes throughout the apparel production supply chain (Holding and Gendell, 2019) Therefore, critical to tackling plastic packaging waste, is to slow down the production and consumption of fashion. This can be done by choosing to repair garments rather than discard them, and as consumers, to limit purchases to only those that are needed rather than wanted. A leader of responsible fashion, Ræburn embraces a radical approach to fashion to ‘make less, make better’, where quality and innovative approaches to sustainability are taken. This has been accomplished with their Ræmade range, where waste is seen as a resource, and ‘nothing new is created’, but rather reconstructed out of surplus materials and products (Raeburn, 2021). During the interview with Amelie (see appendix 1), she emphasised Ræburn’s holistic stance when considering fashion packaging to focus on a responsible business model addressing long term goals and practices rather than focusing on just the material itself. Another practice discussed was introducing a mix of incentives and disincentives to help consumers be more conscious about consuming plastic when purchasing apparel. For example, Raeburn has started to charge for gift wrapping that would have otherwise been free, and Amelie shared that this may help consumers to make conscious decisions whether they require this extra packaging. This was also discussed with Qian Qian from unisex fashion brand Graye Studio (see appendix 1) where she prefers not to charge more, but instead encourage customers to opt out of ‘excessive packaging’ by offering a token amount to be given to a charity or towards a good cause. This is a small but simple way of discouraging the use of excessive fashion packaging, With the fashion industry fuelled by overconsumption, this allows consumers to be more intentional with their packaging consumption.

Beyond these efforts, both producers and consumers of fashion need to systemically challenge the overconsumption practices that are harmful to our natural environment. In order to minimise plastic packaging waste, the fashion industry should rethink and redesign packaging formats One approach identified is to reduce or replace plastic packaging with natural materials like paper, glass or metal. This could help to reduce the impact of singleused plastics on the environment. On a small scale, this has been practiced by brands like ‘prAna’, whose initial orders were sent in fruit boxes from local grocers and labelled with homemade recycled paper tags. When their business scaled up, they initiated a ‘Responsible Packaging Movement’, now supported by a number of fashion and packaging brands, which seeks to eliminate plastic from all consumer packaging by 2021, as well as materials from endangered forests by 2022 (prAna,Fig2021).2(Derksen, 2007)

Eliminate unnecessary plastic packaging through innovative redesign

Another case study is Uniqlo, which has adapted its 'ultra light down' puffa packaging into a reusable storage pouch thereby eliminating unwanted plastic sleeves or shopping bags (Fast Retailing, 2010). Made of the same material and colour of the sold puffa, the drawstring pouch is compact and convenient for customers to store their jacket that can be easily carried around. This example focuses on innovative garment design that utilises left over nylon fabric scraps during the production process. Whilst, redesigning formats is a useful approach to reduce environmental waste, such redesign efforts take time and might not be appropriate for all fashion packaging applications. Although well received, this method of storage is limited to compactable garments. Unlike the ‘ultra-light down’ puffa, the truth is that many fashion

Fig 3

By taking into account its scale, function and storage, another solution explored is to reshape the packaging. An example is Knoend’s ‘Lite2Go’ light that merges both product and packaging. The packaging is made out of recyclable polypropylene which doubles as the lamp shade, therefore completely removing packaging waste (Jedlička, 2008) This is a great example of using a multi functional design concept to help eliminate unnecessary plastic packaging.

EXTENDING THE LIFECYCLE OF FASHION PACKAGING THROUGH REUSABLE OR RECYCLED PACKAGING

13 products are crafted separately from their packaging, hence, a one size fits all approach is difficult when it comes to minimising packaging waste. Other uniqlo products are still offered in a plastic carrier bag, questioning the effectiveness of this solution. Such redesign efforts are commendable but are too fragmented to have impact at scale. They should be paired with other measures focusing on after use collection, sorting and reprocessing in order to build visible change.

The management of end-of-life practices for plastic packaging are crucial in elevating waste. After use, non biodegradable plastic packaging that is not recycled or reused is destined to become waste. The reuse and recycling of plastic packaging extends its lifecycle, which will slow down and reduce the amount of waste produced. This is practical for the fashion industry which benefits from not having to deal with contamination that prevent the reuse and recycling of plastic food packaging. Fashion brands are taking steps towards reducing plastic packaging waste and pollution. UK based fashion retailer ASOS aims to increase the amount of packaging waste recycled and recovered, and currently have switched to 100% recyclable mailing bags made up of 65% post consumer waste. If fashion brands and consumers switch to recycled packaging and are proactive in adhering to proper recycling practices, there is much potential in reducing plastic packaging waste.

Reusable plastic packaging is another method to extend the lifespan of packaging and reduce the impact of plastic waste. The reuse model involves a shift in consumer attitudes, moving away from the constant need for newness. It would mean challenging profitability and

However, the recycling rates of existing fashion plastic packaging remains low. According to a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the surveyed signatories from the apparel industry only recycled 7% of its plastic packaging as compared to 88% for the beverage industry (The Global Commitment, 2020, pg 46). Plastic is not as easy to recycle as compared to other natural materials like aluminium or paper This is because there are several restrictions to the recycling process that are “dictated by material format, market demand and local regulations” (Sedaghat, 2018). Such restrictions include only specific types of plastic resins are recyclable, and a smaller category of resins identified to be recyclable at scale. Additionally, the recycling process decreases the durability of the material, as the plastic polymers are weakened and decline in quality (Kokemuller, 2021). Hence, the same piece of plastic can only be recycled 2 3 times before it no longer can be used.

Moreover, there is a lot of misinformation circulated, and an overall lack of care from consumers surrounding the general topic of recycling plastics (Kazior, 2020). This can result in wrong types of plastic packaging deposited at recycling bins which will in turn affect the overall rate of plastic packaging being recycled. The need for more precise labelling and educating on what can and cannot be recycled, spurred recycling label schemes like On Pack and Sustainable Packaging Coalition’s How2Recycle They both offer internationally recognised recycling labels that are consistent and easily to understand. In particular, John Hocevar, the author of the Greenpeace report, highlights the possible issue of “green washing” and points out that if brands continue to use packaging material that is fundamentally unrecyclable so called transparent labelling is actually counterproductive because it allows companies to get away with unsustainable packing practices (Kazior, 2020)

15 therefore clothing companies are more drawn to technological solutions (discussed below) that turn the potential for a worldwide environmental crisis into an opportunity for business (Brooks et al., 2017) This may be conflicting for both consumers and producers accustomed to the old profit-led business models, but such unsustainable habits of overconsumption and overproduction would have to be changed in order for positive change to happen.

Fig 4: Upcycling Packaging: Mask Protective Sleeve (Graye, 2020)

There are two approaches, one being customer-owned reusable packaging or business owned reusable packaging. Graye Studio’s packaging incorporates their brand values of transformable designs; offering customers reusable paper envelops and plastic sleeves to keep. During the pandemic, Graye designed reusable face masks and wanted to ensure the packaging was also reusable without incurring additional waste thus they had an idea to repurpose defected plastic storage sleeves into smaller mask pouches.

Alternatively, Finnish packaging company RePack offers reusable and returnable mailer bags targeted at fashion brands. Brands receive stock of these customisable recycled polypropylene mailer bags that are waterproof and durable for delivery. Customers then return these packaging by post to RePack for cleaning, and the cycle goes on. Their aim is to not only provide a more sustainable alternative to conventional plastic packaging, but for customers to be more aware of packaging practices and hopefully ignite positive change in consumer behaviour (Coppen, 2020). This business owned approach is a good opportunity for online retailer ASOS, who relies on deliveries to supply orders. They will launch a pilot run of reusable mailer bags in 2021, calculating savings of 2.45kg of single used packaging per 100 orders and would potentially save 730 tonnes of plastic a year in the UK alone (ASOS, 2021). This will change consumer behaviour towards disposable fashion packaging and reduce the environmental impact of plastic packaging waste.

ALTERNATIVE

PACKAGING MATERIALS SUCH AS COMPOSTABLE PLASTIC

Apart from recycling and reusing plastic packaging, alternative materials that are compostable have been considered. In academic literature, the subject of compostable plastics is seldom explored in detail and misused interchangeably with plastics. The terms ‘biodegradable’ and ‘compostable’ represent a

Fig 5: RePack Mailer Bag (RePack, 2021)

biodegradable

17 process and not the composition. European Environment Agency (2020) explains that both biodegradable and compostable materials are able to break down naturally by microorganisms over time. The difference is that compostable materials decompose within a specific time frame of 3-6 months and leave no hazardous residues, while biodegradable materials do not decompose within a specific time frame, and may or may not leave any harmful residues. (EEA, 2020). An increasing number of countries and cities are trying to reduce the impact of plastic packaging waste by enforcing bans on the use of plastic bags. According to a United Nations research paper (2018), 69 countries have enforced partial or full bans against single used plastic bags, and more countries are in the process of doing so As brands search for alternative solutions, there is a growing demand for compostable plastics to replace conventional plastic packaging, as such, the ‘bioplastic’ (biodegradable and compostable plastics included) industry is predicted to grow to USD 7 billion by 2024 (Abramson, Abadi and Kosciulek., 2020). The use of compostable plastic packaging has obvious advantages, the most important being its degradability, which makes it more environmentally friendly as compared to conventional plastic packaging. To address the problem of unsustainable waste generated by fashion packaging, compostable plastic suppliers have developed flexible packaging formats. Suppliers such as Bali based Avani, have a wide range of compostable packaging offerings, and specialise in cassava starch based compostable plastic polybags and t shirt bags. The brand was set up in 2014, in response to the island’s plastic waste crisis. Indonesia is known to be the second largest producer of plastic pollution, with

In discussing the future transition to compostable packaging, Qian Qian noted that at the moment the main reason holding them back from compostable plastic at the moment is its fragility, which is why they prefer paper or reusable plastic packaging for Graye Studio Like Ræburn and TIPA, however, she believes that as compostable packaging improves in quality and becomes more affordable, it will eventually replace traditional plastic packaging. For suppliers of compostable packaging, there are several issues to consider. When it comes to durability, suppliers such as Avani have chosen to stick with bio based materials, likely because not only are they proven to be compostable at home under the right conditions, but they are also non toxic and can dissolve in seawater without harming aquatic life (Avani, 2020).

Unfortunately, there are some limitations to compostable plastic packaging that have kept some fashion brands from making the switch Certain types of compostable plastics, particularly those made from 100% bio based materials tend to be more fragile, have lower water resistance and cannot achieve transparency (see Appendix 1). This would limit their application to inner sleeves, and such packaging would have a higher risk of being damaged during their transit deliveries

Another compostable plastic packaging supplier, TIPA, has recognised the struggle to recycle flexible plastics and films and is focusing on producing high quality compostable flexible packaging. The company uses a combination of bio based and

18 huge amounts clogging up their rivers and canals (Shukman, 2018). In the context of fashion, the replacement of plastic packaging with such alternative materials can reduce and perhaps stop the worsening of this plastic pollution.

Compostable plastic packaging waste has no negative impact on the natural system if properly reused. For this, further developments and improvements are needed to increase awareness and expertise on composting. There is clearly a market

The material developed aims to have the same lifespan as organic material while retaining the best properties of conventional plastics such as transparency, printability , durability and long shelf life (see Appendix 3). The founders of TIPA have made it their mission to combat the threat of waste from flexible plastic packaging in the hope that compostable plastics will eventually replace conventional plastic packaging (TIPA, 2021). They have received great response from fashion brands looking for flexible packaging alternatives. One of their biggest fashion clients is sustainable brand Stella McCartney, which has switched its industrial cast film packaging to TIPA films and laminates (TIPA, 2017).

19 chemically structured fossil based polymers that are biodegradable in compost.

Another issue to consider is the higher cost of alternative compostable plastic packaging and the high minimum order quantities that apply. The cost of compostable plastic can be up to 2 times higher than conventional plastic (see Appendix 3). This can deter aspiring designers who cannot afford or do not need such volumes. To expand their reach to smaller brands, TIPA, in collaboration with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), has launched a 'Partner Program' that allows emerging designers to group together to share bulk orders of unbranded compostable packaging. They are also developing a similar 'stock program' 'that allows designers to purchase much smaller quantities' (see Appendix 3).

As argued in this essay, the concept of sustainability does not align with fashion industry practices of overconsumption and continuous use of materials such as plastic that result in problematic plastic waste. This is because the development of fashion exists as part of our capitalist economy, as it is "inextricably linked to the rise of capitalism ... As well as with the rise of individualism and the pursuit of novelty" (Lipovetsky, 1994 cited in Payne 2019). The above suggestions of redesign, reusable

The way the fashion industry uses plastic packaging is contributing to environmental changes that may be irreversible. However, there is a growing commitment in the fashion industry (The Global Commitment, 2020) to move away from single use plastic packaging and seek out alternative packaging solutions Most of these packaging solutions such as redesign, recycling and reuse systems, and alternative materials such as compostable plastics are all useful in reducing plastic packaging waste but have limited impact on the end-of-life outcome of the packaging. In particular, the approach of reusable plastic fashion packaging, is a good example of a partial change in attitude that challenges the profit driven fashion business model but does not fundamentally resolve the issue of waste that would result from discarded or damaged plastic packaging.

CONCLUSION

20 for an alternative plastic packaging in the fashion industry, and it is likely to grow in the coming years. However, compostable plastics are still far from being a stand alone solution to the current challenges associated with plastic packaging waste.

Future generations will need to be look beyond the current system, and question what sustainable fashion packaging needs to be. In conclusion, to bring about lasting change, more radical solutions are needed in terms of changing mindsets and structures in fashion, technology and the environment.

21 and recyclable packaging, and compostable plastics are entrenched in the current fashion system, which continues to perpetuate overconsumption and waste. As a result, they are ultimately unable to address the root of the packaging waste problem, but rather serve as "magic bullets" to reduce its unsustainability (Brooks et al., 2017).

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IMAGE BIBLIOGRAPHY

Fig 4: Graye Studio (2020) Upcycling Packaging: Mask Protective Sleeve. [image] Available at: https://grayestudio.com/blogs/news/upcycling packaging mask protective sleeve?_pos=1&_sid=8b7bd8532&_ss=r Accessed: 10 February 2021]

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R - Initial of Interviewer, Rebekah Ong A - Initial of Interviewee, Amelie Jannoe

Interview Transcript with Amelie Jannoe

A: Absolutely it is important. As you mention that most brands tend to focus on the garments which are obviously important but when considering it from a design aspect there are labels, buttons, trims. At Raeburn all those things are recycled. So we do go a step beyond. Then when you look at transport, I mean I don’t have statistics for this right now, but they are all around. Transport is a massive contributor to carbon emissions and the overall impact of the supply chain. So really, we need to look at what does the impact of that journey mean, not only when we’re making but also post purchase. So of course, we take into consideration the shipping options that we have, the materials we used for shipping and the lifespan of it. As you know we offer lifetime repairs, we offer rejuvenate- or transform the item for a new purpose if it is irreparable.

R: When considering sustainable/responsible fashion, most brands focus on the actual garment, when in fact the collaterals and packaging (be it physical store or online shopping) is equally as important. Do you agree, and why do you think this is so?

A: We are definitely putting more attention to the customer’s experience as a whole. As you know we stand for craft, creativity and community so unique experiences has always been at the heart of what we do. And that is beyond just simply purchasing but also just anyway that customers interact with us. So naturally the way that customers receive their orders plays a part into that. Now being completely honest, I think there is room for improvement when it comes to our packaging. And…again the reason why perhaps we haven’t got the most elevated packaging at present is that we have an excess of corn starch black packing bags and sleeves obtained a couple of years ago before the brand rebranded. It is in such volumes

I mean that summary is not just packaging focus, but it is absolutely impactful on a holistic level. Just to add- A trap that so many people fall into is that, they think that the material that they use makes something sustainable, but actually it’s the model that makes it sustainable. So you can’t look at something in isolation and say “Oh that it makes you a sustainable R:company”.Thatis so true. Even if someone were to do a ton of research on finding the most sustainable material, if it exists within a very outdated, traditional business model, it’s not going to work. A: Yeah! 100% R: We all know that Raeburn is very big on making sure that the whole process is very intentionally responsible. At the end of the day does packaging play a significant role in the overall product experience? Or would you say the garment maybe is more important in terms of the experience to the customer.

26 APPENDIX 1

Digital Communications and Market Coordinator, RÆBURN

R: Okay so mainly the compoly bags are used for storage of products and the inner packaging before shipping. Has the packaging changed after the past few months since RAESTART manifesto, has there been less packaging used etc, or is this still in progress to be changed in the future.

A: I can’t think of any immediate changes that we have implemented. However, what we have done is we have directly spoken with Farfetch because they are the one retailer partner that we are still required to use traditional plastic sleeves for the production process. So every item that we send for them to shoot that we then retail on Farfetch has to be individually wrapped in a pure, clear plastic bag. Biodegradable plastic packaging bags like the Better Packaging ones that we have, are not see through or transparent completely clear so we cannot use those. I spoke to them and said that essentially this is the only pure plastic form that we are using, and we are looking to phase it out. And they said that Farfetch themselves are

27 that we are sitting in so much excess, that we are having to responsibly again use that stock up before investing in new ones.. unless we find another purpose for those polybags. So you obviously know that they are branded ‘Christopher Raeburn’ at the moment. Now with the whole shift towards RÆSTART (our manifesto for change) which we announced earlier on Earth Day 2020, that is the most radical step yet to really scrutinize everything that we do across the entire business. As part of that we are undergoing B Corp accreditation at the moment. So hopefully we’ll be certified in due course, and that will naturally also involve an order of our packaging and shipping processes. So the good news is we have put good responsible attention to that, as you know with the materials and the shipping providers and carbon off setting that we do with shipping. But we will be reviewing that again and do have plans to change it. It might be by optimising more FSC certified cargo boxes over polybags, or alternative biodegradable options.

R: So it is not a 100% biodegradable, I think it is probably another chemical/element inside that does not make it 100% biodegradable?

A: Probably. I do not know on a molecular level. But I suppose just from a logical perspective, the fact that it is made from a natural sustainable resource rather than from oil. You know virgin fossil fuels is the source of the problem with plastics.

R: That’s really helpful to know, thank you. So before I left I remember that the compostable polybags were not perfect and things were still moving along to change. And a couple of months ago when Fionn (my fellow production intern turn Production Assistant) was still working there before returning to university, he approached me asking if I had any contacts in Asia/China for a better polybag supplier that allowed for customisation with lower MOQs. However, after hearing what you mentioned it does make sense that you guys are still utilising the excess packaging stock for now. Another thing I noticed on the website was that there was a new section on “No Plastics”, what about the external mailer courier bags? Are they still made from the previous leftover stock or are they completely made from compostable plastics

A:too?So the spotty mailer bags are made from a 100% recyclable outer sleeve made from sustainably derived sugarcane. So it is not the usual PET.

28 undergoing a structural shift in the company to be more focused on their positively conscious strategy, so they reassured me on the upcoming changes, however, we have yet to see that change happen. But that change has not necessarily happened since Raestart, but we always look for ways that we can utilise the compoly bags after use. So when we get returns we keep the compoly bags to line the compost bins, and we even take them home individually and used them at home for their own composting. Certainly, in the past, when we have had orders from customers who have placed separate orders, we suggest to them if we can have their orders combined and shipped together.

R: I think most of these changes have been implemented by Raeburn gradually, and yes habits that have been around in the company since my short internship stint at Raeburn (2019) too which changed my own personal approach and mindset towards sustainability.

A: I think you potentially know more than I do here really because of the research you’ve done. But going back to your first question Yes, I definitely think that there is going to be a time when more natural options will overtake virgin plastics. That is primarily because there is so much innovation going on out there right now, and we’re not short on options. I think that the friction or the barrier from companies adopting them is like you said the quality is not quite there yet, and also the element of higher cost too. When it comes to any company, somebody needs to stand up and take the initiative to say we should look at buying something else, and often that can be a long a bureaucratic process because it needs to be signed off by so many people and it has to meet the same quality standards etc. I think that adoption will be slow, but we see consumer mindsets shifting, with more people making choices based on the nitty gritty components of what goes into the products. So if we look at our food that way, why wouldn’t we look at packaging that way. There’s been so much anti plastic messaging out there, and so with COVID exacerbating the need for single use plastics, then hopefully what we will see is a real acceleration in companies trying to adopt these changes.

A: I wonder have you have seen more luxury retailers notably Selfridges and Netaporter (not sure about others) now offer an option to opt out of their most premium packaging. Now at checkout at Netaporter you choose to just get a simple box which my sister had that experience. And I ordered some sunglasses from Selfridges and I was kind of surprise, but it came literally just a brown cardboard box. I have to admit I was little disappointed, as I was expecting it be really ornate, but at the same time I was thinking I don’t need this excess, what would I have done with this packaging otherwise. It is definitely a mindset shift for customers who expect that kind of opulence and excess when it comes to purchasing from such luxury R:retailers.Based on your experience using corn starch bioplastic bags, do you believe in the possibility that bioplastics will eventually replace traditional plastics? Why/Why not? I guess I can link this to my following question based on my research that I’ve done on starch based bioplastics one of the main limitations of bioplastics is their lack of water resistance. And for brands like Better Packaging used by Raeburn, they are able to provide water resistant packaging with the addition of PBAT elements within their product and this is taken from nonrenewable resources. So in this case what are your thoughts on utilising natural materials from finite natural resources or using bioplastics of poorer quality?

A: That’s brilliant! I’m so glad to hear that.

A: We saw a trend that probably matched other fashion brands as well. The initial hit of it, when lockdown took place in March, sales dropped…and same right now with the second lockdown (Dec 2020), there is a sense of ‘back to basics’ attitude of what are your practical needs rather than your recreational purchases. But then there was a rise purely because of the need to adapt and be more digital. During that period we received a record number of sales, higher than previous years.

R: Yup A: The good news is that with all the shipping providers that we use, we don’t have to use any of their own packaging per se… I guess the room for improvement, is that the plastic airway bills sleeve that goes on are still made from conventional plastics. But this goes back to what I said earlier, biodegradable/ compostable plastics do not have that transparency that conventional plastics do which we need when it comes to labelling. Another thing is that we use eco tape for all our boxes, and the only issue is with the Farfetch tape, but they are looking

R: Yes, for sure. I’m glad you mentioned about the click and collect function offered by Raeburn, as I saw that on the website and I think it is a fantastic way to reduce delivery packaging, as well as to have more control over the packaging as with local or international delivery couriers DPD or DHL/FEDEX, there might be additional documents, boxes and tape that they choose to use that are presently not as sustainable as what Raeburn would choose to use. Are there any plans to rectify the issue of disposable mailer bags. In my opinion, delivery companies would either have to find a way to make reusable mailer bags, or find a solution to create it out of a material that will not end up in the landfill.

A: You mean companies as in our shipping providers?

R: Yeah I think shoppers need an outlet to spend, and probably did a bit of revenge buying.

So in a nutshell, yes, I think that due to availability and the fact that consumer mindsets are shifting will set the precedence for companies having to shift that way.

R: Since the pandemic has there been a significant increase in online sales? Do you think that the convenience of online shopping would spur customers to do more impulse buying?

A: But yes, there are definitely more shoppers shopping online purely because of the need to in these circumstances. But at Raeburn we always try to encourage customers to come into the store, to offer them that experience, to have that conversation. And we did offer click and collect throughout the pandemic. That is always our preferred retail method, not just because of the responsible element, but simply to have that human connection. On top of that, with our new website launched, we invested predominantly in user experience, to offer a omnichannel and much more streamline experience for our community. And as part of that we now invest in this app called Hero which is the leading ecommerce customer service app that allows a live chat function on the website, and we can answer customer queries remotely from home, and we can even have a video call with customers for a fit it on experience. It is not perfect, but customers will have a more human touch.

A: It's a good prompt, because really, it's actually an experiment that the brand has discussed. We talked about how we should just see how much unrecyclable plastic we collect as a team, and where we can make changes. Because once you see the collected (waste), then you are more likely to engage in changing that. The only thing that I can think of that is concrete in measuring what waste we produce, is the fact that we get charged for waste collection. But this is not my area of expertise, so that’s all I can offer as an answer.

R: Okay last two questions. Do you think it is a good idea to offer the option of a packaging free check out? Or to charge an additional packaging fee for a fancier packaging?

A: Yeah that’s true.

R: So the premium will not necessarily deter people from using packaging, but I guess the brand is more in control of the packaging process there might be more long term improvement of how much packaging is used. As with all packaging unfortunately eventually all of it gets A:disposed.Yeah.I

R: No worries, that’s very helpful, I just wanted to confirm about the charge for waste collection. As I do remember it being spoken about in passing during my internship where there was an emphasis on being careful with what we dispose and trying to reuse as much as we can if not it will end up as unnecessary waste that the company would be charged for.

30 at changing soon to a paper tape, and they have also removed the previously required cardboard sleeve for the invoice, and now you just put the invoice directly in the package.

R: Cool, that’s great. And I also know that some brands are completely eliminating the need for a receipt and are going completely digital with e receipts. But I guess there are pros and cons, as when the shipment goes missing and there is no QR code on the box, it makes things more difficult for the shipping provider.

R: Last question, does Raeburn keep track of the company’s generated waste/packaging waste, and if so how is this data collected?

think also just another thing separate from this interview that I thought might be good for you to look into would be the psychology between opt in and opt out. There is data that shows the influence of having those different frames of tick this to opt out of the newsletter or tick this for less packaging. There is data that kind of shows the influence of having those different frames like framing that those questions differently.

A: I think as part of our Raeburn content, we do not offer really ornate packaging as a given anyway. But if we look at an example for luxury retailers like Selfridges or Netaporter, I definitely think there should be a premium for that packaging. Just speaking purely from a customer perspective, that you would only need that packaging if it were a gift. But I think people are willing to pay for it. On Raeburn’s website, we now charge for gift wrapping which was previously free, and it has not put people off. In fact, now we see more people choosing that option, because now it has become something that they consciously think about and decide if they need the extra packaging.

A: It was such a pleasure to speak to you honestly. Such a good break in my day.

31 R: Anyway, thank you so much! That was it, so sorry it took a little longer than expected.

Interview Transcript with Xie Qian Qian Creative Director, Graye Studio

32 APPENDIX 2

Q: Yes I agree. In fact I think that packaging and collateral waste is of a larger scale than garment/textile waste. For fashion brands, it is natural for us to look into textile waste because it is the easiest to talk about. If you want to talk about packaging waste. it is not limited to just fashion brands; all other industries are huge producers of packaging waste as well. It is a really big topic. I just feel that most fashion brands are more focussed on garment waste because it is what we are actively producing.

Q: Yes.. yeah I think packaging waste is an even bigger issue.

Q Initial of Interviewee, Qian Qian

R: Would you say that as a designer you are also contributing to fashion textile/ packaging waste?

R: What are Graye’s priorities or approach when considering product packaging?

R Initial of Interviewer, Rebekah Ong

Q: It is something that came up recently. It is not just how the brand has evolved, but also part of my own personal experience. Because as I have increasingly shop more online, I noticed how there is so much packaging waste involved...and whenever I receive packages with all its fluff, I get annoyed with how excessive it is. And most of it we throw away almost

Q: Yes, definitely.

R: Because garment design is something that as fashion designers we specialise in?

Q: As you know we are advocating transformable designs., so right now I am wondering if we can do that for our packaging as well? I am thinking what if the packaging can be reused or repurposed. I think that, that would help to reduce a little on the environmental impact. Also, we try to avoid to using plastics. I think that’s the only 2 ways we can work towards for now. R: What initiated this change towards sustainability? Your business is fairly young and as we all know that sustainability is a trend that has gradually gained momentum. But as we all know now, it is a trend that is here to stay due to the undeniable environmental problems we face now and in the future. So my question is- was it an intentional decision to change the way you package your products from the beginning, or is this something that came about recently (in the past 1-2 years)?

Q: At this point in time, it is not possible for us to replace everything. I think I will still stick to my previous point of reusing the packaging and rethinking ways to enable the consumer to make use again and again instead of just throwing it away. Secondly, the design aspect also plays an important part. So if you can design your product in a more efficient way, clever methods to reduce packaging it would be great. Meanwhile, we will still try to source for alternative materials but in the meantime what you can do with the existing materials and existing packaging design it also matters.

R: Okay, so am I right to conclude from what you are saying that You feel that currently alternative materials available in the market like bioplastics is still not ready to replace plastic.

QQ: Biodegradable plastics is still not widely used now and there is still a lot of people who do not know about it. Plus, it is also more expensive than conventional plastic. So I think it is hard for brands to convert to bioplastics. I mean there are quite a few brands trying to convert to bioplastics, however due to its fragility there are many concerns about durability and possible damage to the products. hence I feel that not many brands are willing to take the risk. Whereas for consumers it is quite hard to say. I think many of them might not know the difference between bioplastics and conventional plastics. I think it will take a long time, but eventually I believe it will slowly replace plastics. But for that to happen, bioplastics need to be more viable and more affordable.

R: Yes, but in Singapore most of paper that ends up in the bins gets incinerated. even those in the recycling bins. I mean this is not the same for other countries, hence I think it really depends on the Government’s approach to waste management. Also, paper is not waterproof and for that purpose is not comparable to plastic.

33 immediately. I think this is the main reason why I do not want to contribute further as an owner of an ecommerce fashion brand. So from my personal experience I want to try to reduce packaging waste where possible.

R: Do you believe in the possibility that bioplastics will eventually replace traditional plastics? Why/Why not?

QQ: It is mainly the accessibility of these bioplastic materials rather than the affordability for us. I mean for now we are able to source for the biodegradable mailer bags, however not one that is suitable to replace our paper packaging. So now it is a mixture… And the truth is we still have stocks of our paper packaging that we need to finish using.

R: Are those the same reasons that deters you from switching away completely from non-compostable materials for your brand’s packaging?

R: At the moment, the main limitations of bioplastic bags is the water permeability limiting it to an inner packaging cover. And companies like better packaging have chosen to use PBAT in order to combat this issue. So PBAT enables the packaging to be waterproof, however, the problem of PBAT is that it comes from non renewable source petroleum. As a fashion brand, what do you think is the best way to navigate these hard choices?

Q: What about paper? Paper would is an alternative to plastic that can be recycled no?

R: Yeah, that is a good point. On another note, do you think you would consider charging extra for packaging?

R: But what if it is part of the process of re-educating your consumers? Then perhaps there will be 2 options of packaging one more excessive at a premium and another that is more minimal, sustainable and free. In so changing the way they view packaging.

Q: Well right now we have already switched out from using physical receipts. So all our online orders will now have e receipts. So I think other initiatives could be to send out a newsletter to inform customers more about packaging waste and in the future if we choose to further eliminate more packaging we can inform them and ask them for their opinions and see how they can get involved. So moving forwards I think technology will replace a lot of the traditional retail experiences of packaging, the unboxing of your product and the excessive collaterals. But instead we can focus more on the product quality itself. However, it is important to let the customers know in advance.

Q: Never thought of that. I don’t think I will ever do that.

Q: Well I think then it is a good idea. There should be options for them to opt out of packaging at the checkout. And for those who opt out, a small amount will be donated to a charity or towards a good cause. Then I think a lot more customers will be open to reducing their packaging waste. Oh! This is a good idea, let me write it down!

Q: 50/50 I think after the circuit breaker and relaxation of laws, people are more inclined to shop physically as they miss that experience. This is evident from our sales from stockists and departmental stores. But I mean online and offline sales are equally important to us.

R: The Coronavirus pandemic has changed the way we purchase fashion products. I have read from other interviews that Graye has seen an increase in online sales? Is this still happening, have online sales continued to increase or with the end of circuit breaker, people are shopping more in person?

Q: Yes exactly.

And it is inconvenient for your brand as a small business to prioritise completely changing the way you do your packaging due to cost and efficiency. So Graye is focusing on reusing what you have right now, and thinking of ways to redesigning your products and existing packaging to try and minimise wastage?

R: Cool. Do you see the increase in shopping online as a problem in terms of the increase in packaging waste? Q: Yes. R: I think now is just the beginning of things, we would probably see the effects of this in the next few years to come. So does Graye have any plans in doing anything to mitigate this problem. What are some changes Graye would make? Is there anything else apart from what we spoke about previously?

R: Alright last question As a small brand, do you see your efforts as futile compared to larger fast fashion companies that are not making changes to their packaging policies?

Q: Definitely not. I believe that even as a small brand you can have a big impact. Your followers still have the capacity to spread the word. I think that most big brands/luxury brands are not advocates of sustainable fashion as they have been operating on a very unsustainable business model. So for them to suddenly switch to a sustainable approach, it is less convincing and can be seen more as a marketing stunt. Unless you are from a large sustainable brand like for example Patagonia. If not, I do not think that this will be helpful in changing people’s perceptions towards packaging policies.

R: Okay sure. So for now it is not Graye’s priority to keep track of these numbers?

R: Alright! That’s all from me, thank you so much for your time!

R: Or if you do not currently track your waste, are you guys motivated to look into tracking your waste so as to manage it better? I mean for example we had a previous conversation before about the offcuts from bulk production in China where you manufacture.. and how the manufacturers do not declare the amount discarded?

R: I was just looking at H&M’s latest advertisement on ‘Wearing Recycled’ and promoting their products as being made from the yarn recycled from old clothing. So I guess just as larger brands are holding themselves accountable, smaller brands also have to make changes and in fact might be more capable of making these changes more effectively due to their size. So on that note.. how does Graye keep track of its generated waste?

Q: I guess yes, we can ask and track if we wanted to. But I am not sure how accurate the data will be. It is also not common practice to require these kinds of information from manufacturers in China. Also, because we outsource our production, and it is not as straightforward as it would be if we were to product in house. Definitely our in house production in Singapore we are able to keep track of our waste

Q: Let me think…

Q: Yeah, for the time being it is not. But I would definitely love to look into it in the future.

QQ: Thank you! And good luck with your project!

R: But is it just as simple as asking them? Because you know exactly how much you are ordering and the amount of fabric they are receiving from the mills as well so it is possible to find out more yeah?

Q: Yeah, they probably just discard them. I actually do not ask them these questions.

TIPA: So, I can see the first question is, do you believe that bioplastic or compostable plastic will eventually replace conventional plastic packaging? This is the main goal of TIPA. It is the main goal of our CEO that in 10 years from now (hopefully less), compostable plastic will replace conventional plastic packaging. And the main reason is because it is better than conventional plastic. Moreover, it’s better than recyclable packaging. And the first reason is that there is a limited amount of time that you can recycle the package, and eventually the end of life would be the same as conventional plastic. Secondly, recycling flexible packaging is not a good option with only 4% of flexible packaging are being recycled. There are two reasons for that. But let me first explain the chemistry behind this. I hope you understand that in order to create plastic packaging, you need to use polymers. It is not possible to recycle the packaging if it is manufactured from more than one polymer. For instance, potato chips, chocolate bars and granola bars, all covered in flexible packaging and all unfortunately non recyclable. So basically, there is no current solution for that. Another reason why recycling is not the best option is that if it is contaminated with leftover food, they just won't be able to recycle it. So bottom line, TIPA’s goal is for most of the industry will use compostable packaging. Obviously, we are still facing challenges when it comes to packing liquids in compostable packaging, so we cannot yet replace 100% of packaging with compostable plastics. That is why we have our R&D team doing tests and developing new applications.

R : That’s great, okay next question on your website there are three main market segments- fresh produce, dry foods and fashion. Did Tipa set out to target these specific markets or was it based on the demand from brands?

R: Thank you for getting back to me, this would be an informal interview, and I would prefer if we can just have a conversation surrounding the questions that I sent. I can go through them one by one too.

TIPA: I apologise for taking so long, you know once you need a signature from the company, it’s such a long process, so, I thought it best to just offer you an informal conversation. You can find a lot of information on our website too, so if you want to quote anything please feel free to use all the information on our website. After the call, I can send you a specific link, so you won't get lost on the website. If you have further questions, please feel free to ask me. If not, we can just go over the question one by one, if you prefer that way, or just like a conversation, whatever fits you.

R - Initial of Interviewer, Rebekah Ong

36 APPENDIX 3 Interview Transcript with TIPA (Interviewee to remain anonymous)

TIPA: Yeah. I think specifically, in the US, there is often misinformation which leads to misleading customers. With an example of H&M, you can see really clearly in the US that they are claiming to use 100% cotton. But when you look at the percentage of the product of the garment, and you can see that the total percentage of cotton is only 3%. The rest are made from recycled plastic polymers. But again, when you are looking at the percentage of how much is being recycled, it's actually a really low percentage. I think the US market is definitely aware of the need for more sustainable practices, but I think they are just really overloaded with information. They struggle with finding out what is actually 100% sustainability, and what's not when first of all the companies themselves are misleading. And second, no one is really giving the right education. And the educating of consumers is also one of the goals of TIPA.

TIPA: It’s a combination. First of all, each segment are segments that we can offer packaging solutions. For fresh, dry and fashion, there are almost no limitation. However, again, with food that contains a high percentage of oil, or liquids, as I mentioned, or food that it's of higher temperature… we cannot provide a solution yet. Because these parameters enhance the process of biodegradation. Hence if you pack something hot inside our packages, it will biodegrade faster, because you kind of imitate the compost condition. Also, I can tell you that we are seeing a lot of demand from the fashion industry. For example, a lot of brands are trying to be more sustainable. It is evident that almost every fashion brand especially emerging start up brands and designers are placing a priority on envisioning a more sustainable brand. One of the first steps is to start with compostable packaging. And again, it really depends on demand. I can tell you that in Western Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and also the US, you can see that people have much more awareness to compostable. Therefore, they are looking for products that are being packed with compostable packaging, thus more brands are approaching us. Ultimately, I think it's really a combination of the product application and also the demand from your specific country.

R: It is interesting that you mentioned the US markets, because I would think that the consumers there are a lot more reliant on plastics, at least for now. But they have implemented a ban in New York starting from March 2020 to get rid of single used disposable plastic bags.

Also, there is also another issue of mislabelling or lack of proper labels for compostable/biodegradable packaging. The labels do not define what it means to be is biodegradable and how long it takes to biodegrade…under what conditions etc. In general, I think that a lot of consumers are not well educated when it comes to sustainability. But you can definitely see a demand from the from the US, especially from smaller companies that are just either starting out or in their beginning stages of their business.

R: Yeah, because they have a lot more flexibility to kind of change it from the beginning. Okay, so the next question ties in, which you have partially answered earlier. Fashion packaging market has grown, like you said, with the increase in online shopping, and especially over this COVID period where people are a lot more digital. Has TIPA seen a dramatic increase in demand for sustainable packaging orders over this period?

R: Initially, I found out about your brand, because I was studying Stella McCartney's sustainable packaging campaign. She was one of the early adopters of TIPA, I think. What is the proportion of larger to smaller and emerging brands that you guys supply to? And also, I noticed on the website, they say, like, inquire to find out about the MOQ. Would you be able to share with me more about that?

TIPA: Regarding the question of proportion, I can tell you that there is quite an equal proportion of small, large and multinational brands… From Pangaia, Stella, McCartney, Mara Hoffman, Gabriella Harrison, etc. There are a lot of French companies or Italian companies for accessories. And it is interesting to note that it is more challenging for a larger brand to make that switch to compostable packaging. If the brand does not already have strong sustainability representation, it is more complicated to get that messaging right to their existing customers as compared to like a new designer.

TIPA: So COVID is still unfortunately not over yet, but I can divide this period so far into two parts. The first part from, the initial pandemic outbreak in January up until, let's say, April, we saw, a halt in the market and with all the big companies. There was a lot of uncertainty in the market and a lot of brands didn't know how to operate because of COVID. And especially, because sustainability is seen as a luxury rather than a necessity. They are more concern with the operation, the marketing, the branding, before then considering how to be more sustainable. So up till April, a lot of companies paused their sustainable packaging efforts. From April until now, when brands started to adapt and saw the resume in online activities. They started to understand how to use the COVID to add value to their packaging. Because COVID made us all realize how important it is to protect the earth and the community, and how important sustainability is. We had a campaign in April about ‘Going back to basics’ which meant producing less. So, right now I can tell you that business is as usual and that most companies using COVID as an advantage actually.

For MOQ, Tipa offers a distribution network in the US called ‘Partner Program’. This is in collaboration with the CFDA and the whole point of this program is to allow for smaller quantities (I can show you separately if relevant). However, the main drawback is that you cannot customise the packaging. So you cannot add your logo or change customise the dimensions. It is simply providing either a resealable bad or garment bag. Hopefully we can promote low quantities in Europe soon, but this is still in the developmental stages. Regarding small companies from the rest of the world, we understand that the order quantities is a

TIPA: Yes!

R: It is quite ironic. But I guess it is a good outcome from COVID, that companies have taken, sustainability more seriously. So, that means after you were saying after the initial drop, when business kind of went back, there was an increase in business?

R: I don’t think it is that complicated, but I don’t think it is information that is readily available to the everyday human.

TIPA: Yeah, you're right. Our packaging is made from a blend of fully compostable polymers that are both bio based, and fossil based. The reason for using fossil base is to retain the high technology of our bag it allows our packaging to look and feel just as conventional plastic. Meaning the transparency is very high. The graphics, colour, the printability the thickness is comparable AND the shelf life is very long. But at the end of the day, our packages behave just as an organic waste, meaning that if you will put our packages in a compost, it will be compostable. I can send you some samples for you to touch and feel for yourself. If you have had a chance to look at the starch based bags, they are of really low quality and not transparent. Yes, they are 100% bio based but they don't have any advantage of conventional plastic. It's very important to understand that the source of the polymers doesn't necessarily say what is the end of life of the polymers. For example, the brand Coca Cola are 100% bio based polymers for their bottles called PET. However, it was chemically constructed to never

TIPA: No, it wouldn't have. So what most brands are doing, is that they are purchasing compostable labels instead, which they add onto their packaging. But yeah, lowering the MOQ is challenging for us. However, if someone wants to use a compostable packaging, and we see the motivation of the designer. In the long run, we will find a way to assist the brand towards achieving their goal of using compostable packaging.

39 challenging aspect for newer/smaller brands, and we are working on another stock program that will offer them the opportunity to purchase much lower quantities. TIPA offers designers to have a collaboration with other designers to share an order that will be mutually beneficial.

TIPA: Ok you mentioned in your question fossil fuel. No, it’s fossil based and that's a really important reason. Because fossil fuel if we change the polymers it will become fuel as we know it. So, we are using fossil based, and after our conversation, I will send you the relevant links, so you will better understand, you know, polymers. And yes as I said, it is quite complicated and we are not science-trained.

R: But then it is still not customisable and will not have the company’s own logo?

R: That’s amazing to hear. Okay, next is a question that I have had for a long time. I gather from your website that your packaging is made from a blend of bio base and fossilbased polymers. And I noticed that better packaging (New Zealand based bioplastics supplier) also does this. Their company go on to explain more online that they use PBAT which is not a renewable natural resource. Is this a temporary solution? Or is this a necessary compromise that comes along with other kinds of packaging like… let's say, paper packaging production, where you still have some kind of give and take with the energy used to produce and the chemicals added to process the paper?

R: It is still a non-renewable resource, right?

R: Has the increasing legislative restrictions and single use plastic bags affected the business and interest in the material? You previously covered this focusing on Australia, Europe and US as yes there has been an increase in interest. How about other parts of the world, like South East Asia? Have you seen an increase in interest?

40 biodegrade. Although they are using 100% bio based, the end of life follows that of conventional plastic to not be able to biodegrade naturally. What TIPA is using is a fossil based polymer that was chemically structured to be able to biodegrade in a compost. There is no connection whatsoever in the source of the polymers and the end of life. The fact that you have a product made of a combination of bio and fossil based polymers like we have, does not result in the same end of life outcome. What we care about is the eventual end of life cycle of the packaging and we found a polymer that is compostable hence we are using it.

R: So just to clarify, I'm not sure because when people say fossil based, I immediately think of fossil fuel. But what does fossil base mean? Exactly? Is it dug up? from the ground?

TIPA: Yeah it is from the ground. However, you don’t need to think about it as the black oil…the main point is that it is not fossil fuel.

TIPA: Yes..that was chemically structured to be composed. It is able to be composed without leaving any toxic behind. That is the important factor.

R: I understand that. I think my question was more focused on the fact that bio based polymers like tapioca or corn starch are renewable resources. However, I understand now like you said the fossil based polymers are required to keep the transparency and water resistant characteristics that which a 100% bio based compostable plastic cannot achieve. And for companies like better packaging, they are doing this in a ratio of 20-80 (80% fossil based), so when created in huge quantities, like what TIPA is doing to supply to various brands. Do you think in the long run, it will be an issue? Because the fossil based resource will eventually deplete one day. This could also impose a strain on the industries relying on this fossil-based resource and create a bidding war. In the long term, it seems to me like it would be best to find a better solution.

TIPA: Yeah, and I said previously when I started to answer that our main goal is to be 100% biobased, to use 100% bio based polymers. Currently, there is no better solution. Obviously, that's what we are aiming for. But we are limited to the availability of polymers in the market, so currently that is our solution for now to have the combination of polymers.

TIPA: But again, you know you are studying the economy of scales. Once you have bigger demand, then the cost will decrease. So hopefully in another few years, the cost won't be a problem. It's just a matter of, you know, demand and supply.

TIPA: The bag itself is cheaper, but then the end of life consequence is much more expensive to all of us. Eventually, the plastic pollution will cost us a lot more than another few cents per bag.

R: It might also be due to the general perception in Asia that packaging has to be so cheap. If the companies could look at it from a different perspective, and give a bigger budget for it, it might not be an issue anymore.

R: How has COVID impacted your business internally? What are some of the key strategies adopted by a company that was helpful?

R: Exactly. In my previous interview with a fashion brand transitioning to sustainable packaging, they mentioned that it was just too expensive for now. And instead, she was going to focus on a using up the existing packaging that she has already. And once it is done, she would look into creating reusable plastic packaging. But like you mentioned it can only be recycled 2 3 times and the problem of waste continues.

TIPA: I had a phone call I think it was two or three months ago with a company from Singapore. And I think you had an election recently, and this is the first time you have appointed a Minister responsible for the environment or something like that. So hopefully that will drive the change. Yeah, we do have a lot of interest from Asia, especially India and Japan. Because think about it, most of these countries are exporting to Europe especially. For example, I can tell you, there is a brand for fruit in Japan that are exporting to Europe. So obviously they want to use the compostable packaging because their target end user has an awareness of what is compostable. When it comes to most brands that are selling locally in Asia, the take up rate is not happening. They are deterred by the price, as they are accustomed to the really low prices of conventional plastics packaging. They are not really willing to pay this gap between regular plastic to compostable plastic. I cannot give you an exact price range, but usually compostable packaging is a little more expensive, and I advise customers it is probably twice the price of their regular packaging. So I think the main challenge of the Asian market is the price.

Because speaking from experience, Singapore has not really done much to impose anti-plastic laws.

TIPA: We are a growing start up. I have worked at the TIPA for more than almost two years now. And I can tell you that we have been expanding and hiring new employees because the business itself and the entire industry has been increasing in demand. When COVID first hit, it was a huge shock to everyone... however after the initial few months, things are slowly resuming. It has been beneficial to our company as the whole world is now more attentive about the environment. In terms of that, we are trying to not only be a deliverer of compostable packaging, we are also using this time that a lot of people are in front of their computer to educate more people virtually. We are doing a lot of webinars and trying to more active on social media to reach out to as many people as possible because we believe that TIPA is currently the thought leader of the industry. There are no other brands that are offering such a high quality of compostable packaging, and you know we are just making lemonade from lemons and using the internet to our advantage. Before COVID, we were participating in at least three events per week sometimes even five per week. And once COVID started, we had to rethink our outreach strategy because ultimately our business is B2B, and we are not aiming B2C. We needed to find new ways to approach brands, distributors and converters of plastic. The biggest shift that TIPA has done initially is our increase in online presence.

TIPA: Yeah, we do offer mailing bags. I can send you also a picture of that. It's mostly for the fashion industry, because we saw a huge demand for this application and decided to develop more in this area. So this is a perfect example of us seeing this demand, and then developing something to meet this demand. If you're if you're talking, you know of a specific provider, it is not necessarily for you know, FedEx or UPS to make the switch. We do have conversation with some of the independent brands that will manufacture their own mailing bag, so they do not need to use the packaging from UPS or FedEx. Companies like ASOS, H&M and Zara are already doing this (but not necessarily fully compostable ones). So we offer a mailing bag solution in the right thickness for international transportation.

R: Yeah. I would also think that there would be different restrictions for different courier company. For example if ASOS was rolling out their own packaging, I’m sure they would have an agreement with the international delivery companies. But perhaps a smaller company might not have the same capabilities to do so. Do the TIPA mailer bags have any sort of certification across the board for international delivery?

R: At the moment main limitations of compostable plastics is the higher cost, durability, especially when it comes to liquids. Specifically, for fashion packaging, because we don't need to cover liquids per se. is for the packaging to withstand like International transportation without additional coverings. If one were to purchase a product from a sustainable brand using compostable packaging, if they were to ship with a courier for example FedEx, it will still be enclosed in the non-compostable FedEx mailer bag. Have there been any solutions TIPA has worked on?

TIPA: It is obviously much more challenging. All of our applications are custom made, meaning that if a company wants to test the mailer bags, then we will need to produce the specific bag. So, they first need to reach our MOQ before we can test it out. It is a little bit more challenging, but I can tell you that we do have companies that are that are using this in their applications.

R: No, I think this is all like, I think I wrote down a lot.

R: That is very helpful! Thank you so much, and I will be in contact with you if I have any more questions.

TIPA: I will follow up with an email and send you the link to the bioplastics just so you have like a better understanding of how we are what we're using. Also, we have a section on our website that FAQ that we try to cover almost every topic. There are also success stories from fashion brands and reviews about their challenges and advantages of using TIPA from their point of view. I can also send you them the success stories of the partner program in the US and attach images of the mailing bags. Feel free to send me an email or we could schedule another phone call.

TIPA: You have any other questions?

R: That's great. Thank you for your response, I'm sorry, this took up a bit more of your time than expected.