THE ANALOG - N. 1 - SPECIAL EDITION by REBEKii

Afternoon in Paris Model : Santiago Villasenor Photographer: Priscila Rebequi (@REBEKii_)

Photography BY @REBEKii_ 17

Photography BY @REBEKii_

Exhibitions That You Can See From Your Bed by Avisa Zendieh

From Paris to New York, Exhibitions that you can visit from wherever you are going through this quarantine. Museums around the world have had to temporarily close their doors because of the pandemic, but have instead managed to open their exhibition online.

POWER MODE: The Force of Fashion Exhibition

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DIOR DESIGNER OF DREAMS There’s always something new to say when it comes to Christian Dior, his legacy and the continuity that other designers have given the brand. Designer of dreams was one of the largest exhibitions ever made about the house and the most visited breaking attendance records when it was presented at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris 2017 and now Dior is offering internet users a free virtually with a guided tour available free of charge on YouTube that covers more than 70 years of the house’s history, in addition to having a behind the scenes of how exhibition was prepared that includes a complete gallery dedicated to a series of samples up to the iconic New Look that marked an important moment in the history of fashion.

The Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York always has the option of viewing their exhibits online. The force of fashion is symbolic, is social ,Power means different things at various times for different people. As such, its connection to fashion is multifaceted, and consideration of the role fashion plays in power dynamics both historically and today requires a multi-faceted approach. The exhibition is divided into five sections, each dedicated to a specific form of “power.” Men’s and women’s clothes are considered side by side in each section, and items from as early as the 18th century are paired with contemporary collection looks with messages of resistance.

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ELSA SCHIAPARELLI The Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. She is known as one of the most influential figures in fashion between the two world wars along with Coco Chanel, her designs were combining fashion with surrealist art of her time. Her designs like the lobster dress are fascinating and her personal story is even more interesting. You can see their most fascinating works on Google Arts & Culture Platform with descriptions and historical photo. It is like an online course to take advantage of your quarantine and there are many more designers that you can explore. Google Arts Platform

Scan the QR codes and Enjoy xx 21

Fashion Heroes in Music

@Magnum

Fashion Heroes in Music Embracing the Nostalgia by Priscila Rebequi (@REBEKii_)

Disclaimer : This article contains doses of rock and roll. If your are too sensitive and get offended easily, please jump to the next one.

Ah, the 70s and 80s... What a great time for fashion it was! It was a time of discovery, of breaking the rules imposed by a narrow minded society attached to old values full of prejudice. It was a time of hope and motivation to build a better and unchained world. These two decades is believed by many to be the times with all style statements (that matters and that still inspires designers all over the world today). Filled with great style tribes, such as (but not limited to): Punks, Hippies, New Romantics, Glam Rock and Rave and with big fashion icons in the music scene and from all different styles like Patti Smith, Mick Jagger, Madonna, Michael Jackson, Cher, Elton John, Stevie Nicks, Siouxsie Sioux, Marvin Gaye, ABBA and many more amazing artists that we’ll talk a bit more about here! Before we actually start we invite you to sit down, relax, prepare a cuppa tea or maybe a glass of whiskey, take a picture of the QR code below and click start on our playlist of carefully selected songs for you to get into the perfect mood and enjoy the full experience of this article! Ready? Okay, so let’s start!

Madonna 80s

Music, as any other form of art, has always been important and present in the world of fashion and doubtlessly it is a tremendous collaborator to spread “la mode” to the masses. Almost all fashion houses has already conveniently used a music idol at least once to promote their products and brand. Some remarkable “brand and artist” collaborations includes: Gucci and Lana Del Rey (who also has done some campaigns for H&M), 2NE1, Big Sean, Nicki Minaj, Pharrell Williams, Kanye West and many more for Adidas, Diplo and Alexander Wang and Courtney Love for Saint Laurent... There are some very confusing ones like Post Malone and... Crocs?? Moving on... This is such a big thing that many musicians takes the opportunity to launch their own brands like Beyonce with IVY PARK and Rihanna with Fenty. 25

When it comes to style, most of the times we can take a quick glimpse at someone and detect right away what kind of musical genre that person listens to. We can guess “rock” or “country” when spotting pieces like the leather jackets, tight jeans and boots or “hip hop” and “RnB” when seeing looser trousers, oversized t-shirt and a snapback... Well to be fair it is getting a lot harder these days that everyone apparently decided to dress the same. Unlike our contemporary costumes, that the main focus and purpose of dressing for the great majority of the general inhabitants of our lovely planet earth seems to be in order to “fit” in the society by showing off their newest purchases to friends on Instagram, resulting in them, the buyers of such things, somehow feeling specially extraordinary even though every other kid uses the exact same thing (if you are one of them, please be advised that we mean no offence at all! Ha!), in the 70s and 80s, Fashion was, without deviation, used as a form to express something bigger, sometimes as a form of protest but definitely as a way to exteriorise our inner character and uniqueness.

Political Statement in Music:

“God save the Queen. She ain’t no human being”

Something legitimately amazing is that DIY and “upcycled” pieces could be seen within the different and one of a kind looks among the members of this tribe. Well, at the same time that we absolutely agree that this style is not everyones cuppa tea (although almost everyone has at least one piece inspired by the punk fashion in their wardrobe today), we have to likewise acknowledge that their brave choices in clothing were much healthier for our beloved planet than the ones of today’s world dominated by fast (and sometimes boring) fashion. Two of the biggest examples of Punk fashion in music and that influenced many people to dress like them and join their cause (because, let’s admit that not every punk joined the movement for political reasons) are Sid Vicious and Jonny Rotten from the Sex Pistols who were part of the group of bands who played the soundtrack of a dissatisfied generation. They walked shoulder to shoulder with the brilliant British master mind designer, Vivienne Westwood, who was one of the crucial architects for the punk fashion movement together with her husband, Malcom McLaren who was among many other things, guess what, a musician (and manager of The New York Dolls and The Sex Pistols). Part of the fashion designers who also created collections inspired by the punk movement are formed by : Zandra Rhodes, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, and among many others we can also find Alessandro Michele with the 2019 Gucci’s Pre-Fall collection in which we can see the references to punk fashion in the Ad campaign video filmed in an Italian temple in Sicily.

Lyrics quoted from the song God save the Queen by the British Punk Rock band The Sex Pistols

Th Punk movement changed the worlds of Fashion and Music for ever. The [real] Punks in Britain and in the USA, for example, often used their outfits as a political manifesto uniform to protest against un unfair and inhumane government and many other injustices in general, additionally it also triggered a creative reaction that we, mere humans, had never experienced before in fashion. Something that many don’t know is that Punk women in these times were a great force for the feminists of today and represented a period of liberation by promoting feminist thoughts and fighting for the right to defend their sexuality and their space in the world. 26

Vivienne Westwood

Sid vicious from The Sex Pistols 80s 27

Profound artistic demonstration: The big (massive) icon, David Bowie, inspired not only his fans all over the world, but also a whole lot of other artists in his time (and still continues to inspire today). Bowie, the eternal, one of the most influential musicians of the 20th century, used Fashion as a direct way to display art by dressing up according to different characters that he created, Ziggy Stardust was by far one of the most famous ones. With fashion, Bowie touched subjects that was still a taboo for the time, like gender bending styles and sexuality and with that he managed to help many fans to feel confident about themselves by following his example of courage to express himself even though he lived in uncertain times (politically, socially and economically).

“In this age of grand illusion you walked into my life out of my dreams.” A quote from Billy Idol about David Bowie. Billy sees Bowie as a key person that paved the way for other artists, you can find more about Billy’s vision of Bowie on billyidol.net. Some of the well known designers inspired by Bowie’s Glam Rock style and characters are : Alexander McQueen, Hedi Slimane, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Tommy Hilfiger and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. In 2006, the Gucci of Frida Giannini launched a ready to wear collection inspired by Bowie and all the Glam Rock gang. This line contained plenty of metallic fabrics, bell trousers and glamour. We cannot forget to mention that we were absolutely thrilled to be able to listen to soundtrack by Depeche Mode while the models were walking in the runway. The times of Bowie and all the fascinating artists that we could be talking about here the whole day, were glorious times when music and fashion could be seen walking side by side, it was in the spotlight. It formed a beautiful harmony of identity. 28

The rule was “no rule”, the purpose was to break the normality and to showcase how creative you could be. It indeed sounds like an exciting period of time to live in! Of course we do not mean to say that no artist nowadays do such a thing, but we can all agree that only a small number of musicians are actually fashion for the same purposes that artist back in time used for. No matter the tribe they were in, the style they had or the genre of music these artist played, one thing they all had in common was/is the influence they had/have over their fans and admires. They have been/are “fashion and lifestyle” leaders for millions of fans and helped/are helping to spread this worlds most relevant styles that has, somehow, through them been eternalised in history and now can still be seen in store windows worldwide, sometimes hidden and mixed in the “new” modern designs by celebrity designers. By that we can conspicuously see that the whole planet might agree (even if subconsciously) that there is nothing as great as the old trends... As time passes and this great feeling of nostalgia keeps on invading our hearts and the runaways of various fashion houses, we keep on going back to the great looks from the past... But why produce more and more pieces while the old ones are still here and good to be used?

Billy Idol

Let’s get inspired! Our team has visited MAD Vintage in Les Marais in Paris, France, to show you how easy it is to build a look inspired by 3 of our favourite musicians without having to buy recently produced clothes and therefore collaborating to a more sustainable earth. Buying vintage clothes is a way of showing you care for the planet while getting to access and rock exclusive items that almost nobody will have. From the moment we first stepped feet inside this cool store located in the very heart of the rainbow friendly quarter in Paris we could spot countless of pieces that could integrate looks inspired by our timeless idols!

Look Number 1: Our first look is inspired by Axl Rose from Guns and Roses, we selected a bandana, a black and white stripped t-shirt and a mighty leather jacket. Many other artists like, Steven Tyler, Joan Jett and Madonna could be seen wearing bandanas too. The leather jacket has also forever been a key piece in the outfits of many other artists, specially in the Punk, Rock and Country scene. Bandanas and leather jackets can be worn in all styles and can be the perfect pivotal item for any look! In this particular look we can sense a “Free Spirit” vibe, ready to rock. A truly atemporal look.

Look Number 2: We decided to be a little bolder for our second look. The yellow suit immediately called our attention as it reminded us of this iconic look worn by Bowie in the mid 70s. While rocking this suit, one can clearly feel the great energy and confidence of Ziggy! We often can be caught feeling afraid of being judged, of people disapproving our personal choices and even the clothes we choose to wear because it is too colourful, shows too much, too less or because of this or that... When did we give others the power to rule and dictate what is right or wrong in our lives? Every once in a while we should always be reminded of and inspired by the courage that many artists like Bowie had of being themselves, the courage of being authentic and not to really give a crap to what others think. So, whatever your gender identification, race or political vision is, never forget to be your true self and to love it! You know what? Go wear that look that you have been dreaming about wearing for ages!

We hope you enjoyed our looks and if you wanna be inspired by many other 70s and 80s music icons looks, take a picture of the QR code below to be directed to our inspirational moodboard!

Look Number 3: Let’s have a bit of fun, shall we? In our last (but not least) look we have chosen this jacket that looks a whole lot like the on Micheal Jackson, hence, the King of Pop, wore in the 80s for the music video of Thriller. Our outfits doesn’t necessarily need to be serious all the time, right? Why not put a little fun from time to time? And even everyday if you wish! Part of being yourself and living your best life beyond any kind of doubt includes having fun! Don’t be timid to explore your creativity, invest in learning how to love life while living it. We are not going to be here forever so let’s make it count.

We also would love to see your looks and hear your feedbacks. Who’s your fav 70s and 80s artists? What would you like to read more about here? Tag us and comment using the QR code on the bottom and let’s connect!

See you next time!

Becca Rebequi Fashion Photographer and Art Director for The Analog Magazine. 30

Vintage Scouting An overview by a picker by Estelle Lystig

How to find the grail among a huge mountain of secondhand clothes? This is probably a struggle that you went through if you are a vintage vending veteran. Nonetheless, some find the perfect solution by hiring a picker and send them to hell with the mission of finding the perfect collection of flower printed tailored blouses. The employers can be designers, celebrities like Kanye West who are in need of inspirations and new items as a creativity trigger. This picker position can definitely be seen as the perfect job as they make money by finding gems and shopping. What a dream. They browse private collectors, flea markets, secondhand stores and auction sales but this lifestyle must be a real hobby if you take into consideration the amount of hours you spend sorting away. Shopkeepers are in contact with several pickers to supply their shops and remain really secretive about their sources. They can spend thousands of euros a year to hire those pickers. With the growth of the vintage market, competition keeps rising thus they will not disclose their inventory that easily. Some pickers even avoid to put their location on social medias while shopping. In fact, the market of secondhand clothes keeps improving and shifting as years pass and the youth becomes more and more involved in the research of old garments. Online thrift stores open like The RealReal, Depop or Guerissol in France. With the occurrence of the trickle-up effect, the market which was before turned towards low incomes communities and small cities is now offering to mid and upper-class with Guess or Ralph Lauren selling vintage. Also, they are aware of the online trends, what is going to sell or not. In fact, sellers are informed of the vintage business. The secret to trick them is to have a great knowledge of future trends: seize this Nike Jordans that went out of fashion five years ago and resell them double price next year because fashion is a cycle and it will be trendy again soon.

Price keeps on rising as stores are implemented into urban cities. That is why some pickers and beyond the big cities may be your solution to your distress of not finding the grail after scavenging the shop for an hour. If we can give you a few tips, it would be to inform you about garage and estate sales. They can be promoted through newspapers or street advertising. It may be hard to find an item that is worthy but do not expect to find only vintage clothes there, expend your research to all vintage collectible goods because it is one of the cheapest ways to find secondhand items. Whether it is clothing mills, flea markets or liquidation, there are plenty of means to find your delight nowadays. Vintage hunting has become a real passion, creating even jobs, a response to the growing vintage demand and environmental concerns.

Estelle L. 33

Ralph and Russo F/W 2020

A Fashion Journal: Ralph and Russo Fall Winter 2020

The most enlightening and life changing experience for me this year has been, without a doubt, working for Ralph and Russo Fall winter 2020 for Paris fashion Week in their PR and marketing communication department. Being able to analyze their collection, from the garments itself to the concepts behind the designs was a pleasure. It was amazing to witness how much thought and hard work goes behind the making of the clothes to bringing together of a mind boggling fantabulous Runway show.

so team have stepped out of their comfort zone of mostly Feminine styles wonderfully and have tried something new with taking inspiration from the Past in a more Rogue way and remaining interestingly aligned with the Trends of the season. How amazing was it to see the Pantsuit come back in Cheetah pattern being embroidered? And day dresses come out in houndstooth and burning velvet camouflage? With Camel suiting thrown into this mix, I got a nostalgic trip. Some other pieces to be remembered from the show were the silk In my opinion, I think it would be safe to say that pajamas Marabou trimmed like the 1950s and Ralph & Russo made its mark this time with their cherry blossom-embroidered fur coat, the fleece Fall Winter Ready-to wear collection. This is their dress for Apres-Ski caught most of the critics sixth collection. A “Global Explorer” who appreci- and clients in their showroom’s positive attention. ates Nostalgia is who they have channel as inspiration. For the first time in their history, they have offered Unisex styles and pieces in their Ready-to Wear collection. They also have sizing up to 22! Even though because of the Covid 19 situation attendance physically was down fairly in the show by several celebs and influencers, the buyers’ presence and responses in the showroom after the show was given virtually and it was great. From the looking glass of a marketing intern like myself, I saw the collection overall as an amalgamation of the latest Trends of Fall winter 2020- 21, exasperating taste and a huge dash of Nostalgia in the air. Ralph himself stated that this collection brings out his interest in orientalism through bringing Highland tweeds to kimonos for the first time in a collection.

Ralph and Russo F/W 2020

There was a beautiful mix of tailoring seen in the All in all, the response of the public towards Outer wears like Capes, day dresses, Pant suits this collection was really plausible and made and Knitwear pieces. The boudoir and military all the creative minds coming together worth it! touch in the garments gave a sober style to the clothes. A lot of checks and plaid and subtle Khaki colors make the styles of the looks look Vintage inspired in an amazing way. On the other hand, the appearances of Red and yellow makes certain looks extremely Bold. Although people expected this collection to be “slightly dressy”, You can tell that definitely this time the Ralph & Rus-

Ankita

Vintage and Movies The Magic Wardrobe by Avisa Zendieh The role of media in fashion world The connection between fashion and film is a two-way process. Fashion designers are partly involved in movies to showcase their designs and may be influencing fashion outside of cinema along the way. Everybody wants to create their own identity because the media plays a mentor role and builds a splendid vision of an ideal personality. Today, the media has become an important part of every home and children, teenagers, young people or adults have easy access to it;In a way, this access reflects their identity as people seen on the screen and allows them to develop in their clothing. Movies and Tv shows have always been a source of inspiration to find the right style for the audience.

-Vintage Clothing in the Movies and TV shows Is your style influenced by movies? Have you ever watched a movie where the style of the characters inspires you? Movies and tv, as well as the arts and culture, have long been used by designers as sources of fashion inspiration; likewise, popular television series are a source of audience inspiration. • -Netflix was released about twenty years ago and has gained over 100 million members globally over the last two decades, providing us not only with a way to watch our favourite movies but also with a variety of popular original TV shows, movies and documentaries. Lets looked at which of the Netflix series had the greatest influence on our wardrobes.

* ”Generation Friends: An Inside Look at the Show That Defined a Television Era,” 40

1-FRIENDS(1994-2004) Even after 25 years when we think about the ‘ 90s, one of the first things to come to mind is FRIENDS and The most popular comedy series already recognized. The “Friends” cast was known for many things, including their personal wardrobes and outfits. Since “Friends” launched in the 1990s, it’s no wonder that many of the styles they wore today seem a bit dated. The fan-favorite series essentially had a major influence in every way possible on the decade. Here’s every way Friends inspired ‘90s fashion and some styles we still wear today:

Why is Friends so timeless?

Levi’s

The six main characters were incredibly different people. There was the princess, the cool guy, the adorable geek, the hippy, the control freak and the socially awkward but lovable jokester. Viewers could easily see themselves, or at least bits of themselves, in each of these characters. And more than that, they saw that although these friends were so different from one another, it worked. The friendships were strong, endearing, and admirable to watch.

It’s no wonder Levi’s 501s are one of fashion’s most popular pieces. And this pair worn with a plain sweater top by Monica makes us want to search out our own to wear it everyday

Denim everywhere

2-STRANGER THINGS (2016-present)

Of course, in almost any decade, denim was an important wardrobe. This did play a special role in the 1990s, though, and Friends was a big source of inspiration. While many of the characters were wearing Denim in their own way.

Bohemian style

Chandler’s style veered from geek chic with t-shirts tucked into jeans, utility with Harrington jackets and those dad core ties His look graduated to more sophisticated as he went on but it’s his cobbled-together, baggy layers we most want to emulate now.

Audiences love the show, absolutely Because the costumes which catch their attention in the first place. The dressing era of the 70s and 80s pulls on vintage-loving heart strings and has all enthusiastic to replicate those trendy teens. There’s almost too many era-inspired looks to choose from these three seasons for inspiration.

Phoebe Buffay had a unique sense of fashion. The colorful often large ensembles were certainly a source of inspiration for Friends audiences in the 1990’s, and could even have inspired some of the “boho chic” styles we wear today.

Plaid 1995’s Clueless is often credited and remembered for sparking the plaid trend of the 1990s. Even so, you might be surprised to learn that Friends did it first. One of her most iconic looks was a “schoolgirl” style, featuring a plaid mini skirt and knee-high socks — months before Clueless was ever released.

4-stranger things styles to recreate 1. Hopper’s Hawaiian Shirt a pair of light-blue vintage Levi’s and a vintage Hawaiian shirt, and smart-casual shoes, a fake scar to forehead. 2. Eleven’s Colourful Prints Jazzy-print colourful playsuit, chunky elasticated belt, brightly coloured sunglasses 3. All-Out 80s Max & E HUGE earrings, puff-shoulder blouses, a tutu-skirt 4. denim shorts, striped tees, socks and Vans. Boxy, striped shirt, aviator glasse 3-SEX AND THE CITY (1998-2004) Left an impression on the fashion world Two decades after the series was first shown, Carrie, Emily, Charlotte and Miranda continue to influence our wardrobes. Sex and the City go down in history as one of the most trendy TV programs ever and and how it continues to make its presence felt on the catwalk today. • Carrie’s ballerina skirts • Charlotte’s interest in pink • Samantha’s suiting

• HOLLYWOOD On the other hand, hollywood movies are the best showcase for inspiration,Hollywood films being some of the biggest shapers of popular culture, there’s no denying that many films have unforgettable outfits: 4-Once upon a time in hollwood(2019) Skinny ties and slim-cut suits á la Don Draper. Bell bottoms, tie-dye, and mutton chops á la Joe Cocker. It would be difficult to find a moment more dissonant in form than the late 1960s — which is part of what makes the decade so interesting. Hollywood’s Golden Age between the 1960s and 80s also inspired people. Films and television programs have played a primary role in dictating fashion choices for people for decades, whether they knew about it or not.

Pop Culture Fashion Icons Who Inspired us Pop culture has become a source of inspiration for many aspects of everyday life because people have been living with the media around them every day. No doubt, for many men and women, many of its stars, from the 90s and now, have become fashion icons. In general, pop culture describes the media produced for consumption,fashion, music, film, and art. The reason the media became so famous is because of the people involved; particularly the actors, models and musicians In this article you’ll see how pop culture stars have shaped fashion through their unique ways from the 90s until now, and how you can inspire them in your own life.

Audrey Hipburn(Holly Golightly ,Breakfast at Tiffanys) Breakfast at Tiffany’s is most famous for Audrey Hepburn’s iconic little black dress, but this film is chock-full of incredible 60s outfits.

Leighton Meester(Queen B , Gossip Girls)

Hugh Laurie(Dr Gregory House , House) ``I dressed as him for Halloween one year in high school and realized I loved wearing blazers (the extra inside pockets are always clutch). So I started wearing one with my school uniform every day. Flash forward many years later, I now own nine blazers and wear one almost every day. ``— Chancellor Agard

Julia Roberts(Vivian Ward,Pretty Woman) She styled menswear or unisex clothing popular and helped bring the movement to the global design scene. Also She was creative with her fashion for a giant movie star which gained her appreciation from designers and fans alike.

Alicia Silverstone(Cher Horowitz,Clueless) Alicia’s carefree attitude to appearance and frequent displays of natural beauty turned her into the ideal teenage starlet. Her style was girly and fun. She looked current and youthful and perfectly represented the sweet-and-a-little-sultry aesthetic.

Leighton Meester was a 2000s pop culture icon for teens thanks to her Gossip Girl character, Blair Waldorf. The theme of her character bleeds into her daily clothes up to now, and has a clear influence on elegant wear and wear headbands.

Sarah Michelle Gellar, (Buffy the Vampire Slayer) Buffy Summers is the ultimate turn-of-the-millennium fashion icon. She found every style from flannels to halters and understood how to match denim with mini-skirts and dresses for prom and can be grouped under the chic yet badass type of look. Think of pants, sneakers, and jackets. If you want to copy Sarah’s look, you should try portia rust pants, striped tops, black top, and a denim jacket for your everyday look. 43

HOW VINTAGE FASHION BECAME THE NEW CELECRITY MUST-HAVE The red carpet is usually a showcase of straightfrom-the-catwalk and new, custom-made designs — but even here, vintage is gaining ground. Celebrities helped to improve the image of vintage fashion In the past, Wearing clothes worn before was frowned. Only those with lower incomes will buy in, rather than want, as a form of desire. As Garbo Antiques interviewee states, “second-hand clothing used to be for the poor but thanks to supermodels and celebrities it is now the ‘in-thing.’” Celebrities recently made a makeover of the vintage fashion scene and encouraged trend-conscious customers to concentrate on a source of luxury previously ignored.

• 2006: 1955 • 2009: Pierre

Reese Christian

Witherspoon Dior couture

Penélope Balmain

Cruz

in dress 1950 couture.

• 2011: Anne Hathaway in a Valentino dress from the fall 2002 couture collection. • 2012: Natalie Portman in a Christian Dior couture dress from the spring 1954 collection. • 2017: Kirsten Dunst in a Christian Dior couture dress from the fall 1952 collection.

Many celebrities such as ReneeZellweger and Reese Witherspoon have helped to encourage the move towards vintage fashion by wearing vintage attire to red carpet events. When media shows, celebrities shift to wear vintage dresses this approval label is then noticed and accepted by design fans who use celebrities to lead fashion. The Oscars, the Met Gala, the Golden Globes— all are the culmination of fashion heaven here there is a some example of this movement : • 2004: Jennifer Garner in vintage Valentino couture from the 1970s.

• 2001: Julia Roberts in a Valentino dress from the 1992 couture collection, with Benjamin Bratt. • 2018: Emma Roberts in an Armani Privé dress from the spring 2005 couture collection

-Honeypot Vintage: where ‘Stranger Things’ shops If You Wanna Dress Like You’re In ‘Stranger Things 3’ you should go here . Legatski sold about 300 pieces of clothing to outfit the cast and extras on the latest season of the Netflix show “Stranger Things” which is set in the summer of 1985. Since Nancy hit the small screen with her baffling layered sweaters, the Netflix original series has been praised for its spot-on ‘80s fashion. The “Stranger Things” team sent an envoy to Asheville about four times over the course of production to dig through the warehouse where Legatski stores her out-of-season finds and bulk items that most customers won’t be interested in. After all, they had hundreds of extras to dress and accessorize. Legatski said she was impressed by the costuming team’s commitment to hunting down real ‘80s clothes. “They wanted everything as authentic as possible, ” Legatski said.

NETFLIX RECOMMENDATION VINTAGE LOVERS

FOR

``SLOBBY WORLDS`` it is a reality show about (aka Robert Hall) is obsessed with pop-culture collectibles from the 1980s and 1990s. He is a world-famous buyer, seller and collector of vintage clothing and memorabilia from that era, including luxury leather bags and jewelry, jerseys and sneakers, toys, games and bootleg clothing (to name a few of his favorite categories). Slobby is majority owner of the store “Generation Cool” on the hip 4th Ave of Tucson, his hometown. At the store and on the streets he is known for his uncanny ability to examine any item from the ‘80s and ‘90s and instantly know if it’s real, fake or bootleg, and his encyclopedic knowledge of its history, cultural significance and value. every nostalgia, those pop culture images and pop culture ideas, whether it is Michael Jordan, polo, He-Man, Mr. t. these are all things that can resonate with somebody. “Everything has been one amazing merry go round except it’s like a merry go round that goes up and up as you ride it,” said Owner of Generation Cool Robert Hall AKA Slobby Robby. you can become an expert in vintage, flea markets, and style in under 10 episodes.

In With Why TheFashion Old,,,NeedsOut With the New To Circulate By Santiago Villasenor

It’s hard to believe, but the average person throws away around 35 kilograms of textiles annually and more than half of it are synthetic and non-biodegradable. A rise in clothing consumption and production, triggered by the fast paced business model of apparel brands such as Zara, Weekday and C&A, it has been a dramatic increase in textile waste around the world. So, we face the question: Do we really need more clothes on Earth? No. Another mind-blowing fact (that you’d probably never reflected about); from the moment we’re born until the moment we die, we’re icontact with textiles, from clothing, footwear in constant contact with textiles, from clothing, footwear, towels, bedding, etc. and we’ve thrown them away without any concern. Only about 15% of clothing gets donated or recycled, while the remaining 85% has the same destiny as food waste (U.S. EPA, report 2019). That said, it’s very likely that the polyester pyjama that you wore when you were 5 years old is still out there decomposing in the bottom of a landfill. This in the main concern: We don’t need more clothes, we need to circulate the existing ones. Don’t they say that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure? If we don’t slow-down our fashion consumption today, in 10 years we will have in the world more than 500 billion additional t-shirts, and we don’t need that, do we? (McKinsey & Company, 2019) People are buying more clothes because of the apparel industry linear model, which encourages over-consumption and generates excessive waste. . .

These apparel garments are cheap and aimed to unconscious customers, who just want to regularly change their wardrobe based on seasonal trends copied by fashion brands and then just throw the garment away when it gets outdated, just like a disposable paper cup Even though the cheap apparel brands have helped democratise trends by copying them from fashion brands, and making them accessible to the vast majority of people, it has done more harm than good. The never-ending production of poorly made clothing (that will probably last months and then be thrown away) has just made badly spoiled consumers. Now the problematic is acknowledged by the entire fashion industry and a small percentage of customers, but the toxic apparel business won’t alter its model as long as it’s profitable.

A great improvement could be made if these companies changed their approach for good, but the efforts are still at a very early stage and do not tackle the problem from the bottom: to produce and consume less. This is a simple but effective principle that can be implemented by companies and consumers as well, so instead of having to achieve higher revenue goals every month, companies must reduce production and sales and understand that we have to work all-together to take the responsibility of changing this concerning climate problem. It’s just a magic formula of producing and consuming less, and putting in circulation the clothes that are already siting in our closets.

“The most eco-friendly clothes are the ones already in your closet” Rose Macario, President and CEO of Patagonia

Many clothing companies have committed to a circular system, but making them all agree into a measurable goal has become very difficult, since they all produce different products and have implemented different initiatives. Some objectives are decades away, but we no longer have time for green-washed marketing campaigns nor limited edition collections made of supposedly recycled materials, because this doesn’t address the problem; we need to change the business model upside-down and apply sustainable manufacturing practices, but more importantly, we ought to keep clothes in circulation as long as possible, this means cutting down the use of new materials and think twice before we throw them away. We customers have to stop and evaluate: Can this garment have a second chance? Once we’re aware of the issue of having too many clothes on the planet, customers and companies can take concrete steps towards recycling and encouraging circular economy.

Surprisingly, of all the textile waste, only 1% of it is reused to make new clothes (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, report 2017) because recycling is very difficult when garments aren’t made of a single fibre, which is very common in cheap apparel clothes. Understanding that recycling is not precisely the most effective nor immediate way to reduce our impact, upcycling turns to be a practical solution that can be implemented by all of us. Reworking existing garments doesn’t require expertise or special tools. It can be relatively easy and bring economic benefits, ultimately helping elongate the life of clothing. Also known as the second life movement, upcycling is the other face of recycling, that in a few words aims to create clothes that are better than the original version. The goal of this mode of recycling process is to take unwanted clothes out of the waste cycle, breaking the lineal structure and giving them a creative upgrade. There are different ways to implement upcyling in our lives, but the most practical way is with garments that we don’t need or want anymore because they’re dated, damaged or we simply want to refresh their aspect.

French designer Marine Serre upcycles textile discards, from overproduced jacquard towels to vintage crochet tablecloths, and transforms them into runway fashion.

The concept of circularity covers the entire fashion chain, from design to the materials chosen and the production process; these are all ways of prolonging the lifespan of garments through better care, repair and finally recycle. However, the problem of overconsumption cannot be diminished by recycling and is not the answer to close the loop, because it often means that they will be transformed into low quality products with a very short second-life span that will soon end up in the trash anyway. The main concept of circular fashion is keeping clothes in use for as long as possible, taking the most from them and regenerate useful products at the end of their life. Many fashion companies have fought the problem in the wrong way; they give options to make the disposable more efficient, when the solution is to stop producing disposable clothing in the first place, encouraging the reparation of garments and giving a second chance to pre-loved clothes.

Because upcycling complete garments is way more difficult than upcycling dead-stock fabrics; vintage clothing has taken over the opportunity to make the life cycle of garments even longer and without any process other than dry cleaning and probably slight modifications or reparations. Worn clothing, from second-hand to luxury pieces, is experiencing a huge boom at the moment, that has led to a rapid expansion of offering in the market for all types of customers (just like the market for new clothes), targeting people that are just looking for bargains, through treasure hunters and fashion archive collectors. Due to the increasing nostalgia zeitgeist, everything in fashion is about past decades, and this is probably the main factor why vintage fashion has been so widely accepted in light or the environmental dilemma by which we’re going through.

As the fashion customer becomes more conscious of environmental problems and the impact that fashion has on the planet, the appetite for upcycled fashion grows; giving a sign of progress and encouraging companies on investing on recycling technologies and the arise of new businesses focused on rental and resale, which offer opportunities to extend the life of old clothes. However, the term “old clothes” doesn’t always mean undesirable, quite the opposite. As people are understanding that clothes cannot be just simply thrown away, there has also been developing an entire business around vintage fashion, a promising circular model that will surely replace apparel faults in the next years.

We’ve developed a sense of appreciation for the old. Just like any other investment asset, vintage clothing tends to increase its value as years pass by, making them very attractive for customers that know they can buy a designer purse, enjoy wearing it for a couple of times and then resell it, and it will only increase its value. That’s the beauty of real vintage, that it’s like fine wine, it gets better with age and there will always be a business for it. Previously, the vintage fashion business was more runway focused and specific designers were considered valuable, but now everyone wants any piece of fashion history. This phenomenon is particularly developing through younger generations like Millennials and Gen Z, who are really into collecting fashion as treasure hunting hobbies, with a particular appetite for relatively recent collectibles from the 1990s and 2000s, with a focus on avant-garde and minimal labels. In addition, another perk is that collecting vintage fashion is usually more accessible than brand new clothes, and that’s the reason younger audiences are interested on this, because buying luxury vintage, after all is still buying luxury fashion and this is an unexpected twist, because to a certain extent, it is a way of democratisation. The fast-paced cycle of fashion have made trends very ephemeral and items are no longer special. For example, you can find three people wearing the exact same animal print blouse at a party, so by the time you see that trend the next time, it will already feel old-fashioned. However, when talking about a vintage piece that is out of the current fashion cycle, so it’s virtually impossible that it will be worn by anyone else at the same party. A vintage piece is special because it’s a unique and it belongs to nobody else but you. Nobody else has that same item and that’s a very powerful personal style statement. If you choose recycling, upcycling or simply buying pre-loved items, the ultimate goals remains unchanged: close the loop between production and consumption and avoid at all cost that a garment ends up in the landfill before it has achieved a long and well-lived life. 50

Circular economy sounds simple, but for the fashion industry, achieving complete circularity won’t be an easy task and that’s why companies should have an eco-target just like they do with monthly selling targets and constantly asses themselves if they have become less wasteful. Customers’ initiative can make a difference when apparel giants like Inditex or Primark backup with research and technology investments and truly commit to the cause with new programmes that encourage mass customer to stop the throwaway overconsumption capitalist mindset and only buy clothes they will love and keep on loving for a long time, but then we encounter another problem: apparel garments don’t last long To promote environmentally conscious practices such as recycling and circular economy, is telling the consumer to stop consuming (or at least less) and this slow-down concept is not particularly the favourite of businesses. Instead of greenwashing the market, brands should simply implement practical and convenient strategies to elongate the life of clothing by produce higher-quality, but still accesible, garments that can also be repaired easily and have the opportunity to live a second life. The answer to this dilema is in the past, in the post-war approach to garment production “making less but better”. We will only save the planet precious resources by redesigning the apparel system from scratch, having in mind circularity and understanding that this garment will occupy a space on Earth possibly for longer than we will live on it. Do you really want to leave that footprint?.

VICTORIA ITAGYBA BY @REBEKii_ 52

The 4 Decades Old Outfit by Priscila Rebequi

In a recent interview with the Art Director of Which is a method of deconstructing the DiSFORIA magazine, Victoria Itagyba, we clothes to create a whole new piece using have asked about her passion for vintage. the same fabric. Let’s be kind to our planet. “ And she has shared with us all her thoughts *** about fast fashion and how the industry could and should change, specially now The Analog team decided to throw that we are going through pandemic times. a challenge to our dear readers! We challenge you to take pictures (you can in“We could see this as a great opportunity to do clude a short text explaining the history behind what we should have done before! The plan- your look) of you in your vintage or upcycled looks. et is asking for help. We have now understood how fast fashion and exaggerated consumerism Send us via instagram (you can is harmful not only for the planet but also for our find us using the QR code below) mental health. The Fashion Industry has already We will select the most interesting ones and if yours started to change and I believe we are the gener- is chosen you might appear in our social mediation that will provoke it to finally move forward.” as and in our next issue of The Analog Magazine! She has also talked to us about how she always had fun with creating new looks with her mothers clothes from the 70s and 80s and how she could always make it look modern with a special touch. “Vintage doesn’t necessarely means old fashioned. You can make it look amazing! This outfit that I am wearing today for the Editorial has been sitting in my mothers wardrobe for ever. My Sister who is 20 years older than me always looked at it and said “it is horrible, I will never want it” till one day I took it and styled it and she actually thought it was a completely different outfit that my mother was hidding from her to give to me.” Swipe to the next pages to continue enjoying the editorial which was taken at Brazil’s secShe continued by expressing how important it ond oldest city, Santos, which was the city is for us to support brands that does upcycling where the Portuguese has installed ports to export coffee and other brazilian goods to Eu“If you do not know how to style vintage cloth- rope. Also the city with one of the oldest Enging to make it look interresting for the times lish buildings, a train station, in Latin America. we currently living but still understands that it is important to support the cause, I invite you to research about the inumerous brands nowadays that has adopted the UPCYCLING. .

Becca Rebequi

Gigi Hadid and Her Photography Project by Mishty Banerjee

“With iPhone cameras getting more and more sophisticated, the art of the disposable camera can seem like a distant throwback. Not for Gigi Hadid”-.

Even supermodels have side projects, don’t you know? In June last year, Gigi launched a new instagram account “Gisposable” showing all the pictures she had taken herself on a disposable camera. The series of behind the scenes film photographs from the Fashion Week, all published on her Gisposable account.

www.instagram.com/gisposable

contributed photography for V Magazine in 2017. When V Magazine showcased Hadid’s photography, the model mentioned her long time interest , even running her own photography service in her early teen years. “I had my own photography business. I even had a website, hadidphotography. com. It’s definitely not up anymore. I took pictures of my friends and their horses for less money than the professionals. There was a lady who sold them for like $80, but mine were only $10. I’d package all the pictures in my bedroom, and my friends would give them to their moms as gifts. I think I still have some of the photographs. This was before you could take a good photo on your phone. We just had flip phones back then.” said Gigi. In an era where every Instagram post seems impossibly posed and curated, there’s a kind of empowerment to taking one snap of a Polaroid and hoping for the best. Gigi’s position as one of the most sought-after models in the world also places her in some of the most exclusive rooms in fashion, with a unique opportunity to share these moments with the masses. Where else can you see Anok Yai messing around backstage at Tom Ford? Or Kendall Jenner tossing up a middle finger at the Versace afterparty? Sure, Gigi’s party pics may still look lightyears more elegant than the going-out selfies you took with your friends last weekend, but the cavalier spirit remains. And as everyone knows, a picture is worth a thousand drunk texts. If you’re feeling in the mood to double tap, you may want to scroll through the rest of the feed as well. While it’s certainly interesting to catch up on fashion month, Gigi previously shared other runway snaps and time spent with friends. Now, please excuse me while I refresh the feed in anticipation of more photos.

The snaps offer an unpolished yet glamorous view of the supermodel lifestyle, with candid models, celebrities and creative alike as they prepare for one of the biggest fashion showcases in the world. ” Cara Delevingne, always ready to camp it up, hikes up her legs and sticks out her tongue during a Savage x Fenty rehearsal. Jennifer Lopez busts a move with Donatella Versace in a version of her iconic Grammys dress. We’re used to seeing models at their most statuesque, but Gigi’s pics prove that behind the curtain, fashion’s elite know how to let loose. But this isn’t the first time Gigi has taken a role on the other side of the camera. She first snapped pictures behind the scenes of the Met Gala and

This article from the vintage magazine The Analog is called “Sophisticated Seconds”. The word Sophisticated is used, as vintage clothes are known for being unique and of good quality. And Seconds makes reference to second hand clothes. In this article we are going to start by understanding why people tend to feel nostalgia for some clothes or trends, and unconsciously develop emotional attachment for them; how brands take advantage of this emotions; and how vintage fashion is related with it, as now days it is not only a trend but a way of living because of the feelings these clothes provoke by owning them, wearing them and at the same time helping the planet by not consuming more new clothes. This article has also the purpose to invite more people to make part of this lifestyle and forget all the bad stigmas about second hand clothes. This is why some tips will be mentioned for the people who want to give it a try but do not know where to start.

Have you ever wondered what leads younger generations bring back their parents, and grandparents fashion stereotypes? In a world dominated by excess, constant changes, technology, and waste, where the world and people are seen through screens, there is a need for emotions. Therefore, our brain drives us to a retrospective look, where times were more reflective, longing for old times that make us feel we belong to a special era, and adopting fashion trends that give deeper meanings to a lifestyle that changes constantly. Fashion trends create nostalgia. This word comes from a Greek compound, consisting of (nóstos), meaning “homecoming”, and (álgos), meaning “pain” or “ache”. Therefore, it was considered an illness in the XVII century. Nostalgia has always been present in our lives, and it connects with the deepest parts from our being; those memories that give meaning to who we are.

Of course, the way we dress depends on many more factors, such as, the era we grew up in, our surroundings, the people we spend our time with… But what is more interesting is that even if we did not live in a certain era, we can still feel nostalgia for it and adopt a trend. This can also be reflected on movies, music, or art. Most of us have some beloved garments from past trends that remind us of good old times. Nostalgia for older clothes, sometimes arises when the fashion of the present is perceived as something meaningless. On the other hand, the past is idealized and it makes us get attached to them. Another reason that makes us keep with us this kind of clothes is the sense of belonging to a group of people who normally idealized an icon that reminded us of what that time felt like. This is why, some products are filled with these deep emotions and therefore become an iconic item. And also one of the reasons why it remains a great selling point for many brands.

Then, what is the difference between vintage and antique clothing? When we call something “antique”, we are talking about items and garments that are more than a hundred years old. The scale slides each year, of course, as more and more things fall into the antique range. And last but not least, retro refers to fashion that is new (manufactured recently), with an intent to look like it goes back to

And the fashion industry knows how to take advantage of it, as most of the actual trends are inspired by older older trends. It is true that everything comes back, but not as exact copies. It is a perfect balance between remembering this “good old days” and now days. For example, the new 2020 collection from Gucci x Disney. What a better throw back than classic, vintage illustrations of Disney’s original great couple (Mickey and Minnie Mouse) in colorful prints and sophisticated embroidery for contemporary, luxury designs. This mixed feelings are one of the reasons that brings us to “Vintage Fashion”, but it is here where the lines between second-hand, vintage, antique, and retro garments get blurred. First of all, we should know that when we talk about second-hand, as the term already explains itself, is every item or clothing that has been owned by someone else. Basically, it is everything you purchase that has had an owner before. On the other hand, vintage refers to items and garments contained within the second hand category; clothing between 20 and 100 years old that are also clearly representative of the era in which it was produced. It could be said that to be called vintage the piece should strongly reflect styles and trends associated with that era. 62

another era. Retro is sometimes used as “revival,” and not just in fashion terms. It is bringing back a style or design that was once popular, faded in glory for a time, and is now making a comeback. This vintage trend has come to stay. The new generations are increasingly adopting it, and it is not a new phenomenon but it is sure coming with more projection and visibility. There are many reasons why vintage has become popular. One of the main reasons is that clothing is a way to define ourselves, and the vintage products are something authentic and original that let ourselves distinguish from the uniform and globalized society we live in, as mainstream fashion has become less unique and high street fashion is too generic. One of the most important aspects of looking stylish is being original. It tells a lot about ourselves and our personality. Vintage clothing allows people to express themselves while attempting to create a paradox of fashion; they fit in while also standing out. There ing

is something special about and wearing something

ownthat

So many incredible pieces already exist. So why buy more and more new clothes when you can own something authentic with so much meaning and history behind it?

probably nobody else owns, and wearing it forces one to take a more creative approach to getting dressed. While wearing this clothes, you can make sure no one will be dressed as you when you walk into a room. This is why many celebrities tend to wear unique garments with no concern of ending up in a “Who Wore it Best” column. Unfortunately, many people just see these garments (no matter how valuable or glorious they are) as nothing more than “old used clothes”. They do not get the meaning behind second hand clothes, and just think they do not deserve to get dress with something that somebody else used to wear. There is a persistent misconception that only people who cannot afford something “better” go to thrift shops. But against what people think, this clothes are made out of good quality fabrics, as older things tend to be a little bit better made, and because this pieces have been around for so long, that proves their quality.

Before the 1970’s, when polyester first became popular, and especially before the early 1960’s, clothing was constructed to last. Plus, all that extra fabric on the inside of vintage clothing means that it is much easier to have it tailored to fit you perfectly. These days, even dresses that cost hundreds of euros boast barely a millimeter of extra fabric, and a quick look at the interior of these garments reveals that regardless of the quality of the design, they were constructed with minor attention, paid to saving the manufacturer’s money. One way to tap into the benefits of vintage clothing is to learn how to tailor these pieces or having someone tailor it for you to suit your modern wardrobe. You can often find second-hand clothing quite cheaply at thrift stores and garage sales, then alter them yourself or with someone else’s help for obtaining a cool new look. For those who are Instagram lovers, fashion vintage fits perfectly in this era, as authenticity and originality are noticed, and people use it as a way to define their style. If you’re in need of a little old-fashioned inspiration to pull your vintage looks together, Instagram is a great place to start.

But just remember… Not only is important to have unique clothes of good quality, but to buy consciously and to be aware of the fact that clothes are one of the biggest polluters, and buying in big amounts or buying frequently is not helping our world. Everyday, more and more people adopt this concept as a way of living, trying to be conscious of the impact that consuming in excess has on our planet.

There is much more to vintage clothing than just being old and used clothes. There is a history and art to them. And let’s not forget that there is also a great balance between quality and price. 63

If you do not know how to buy second hand clothes but you feel curious about it and want to give it a try, here are some tips for you:

1. Get some inspiration. Find some looks you would like to have and get creative. You can take a look at some magazines, Instagram profiles, tv shows or whatever inspires you. It is supposed to be fun so do not limit your imagination! 2. Identify the best thrift shops in your city. If you pay more attention while you walk on the streets, you will find out there are more thrift shops than you imagined. They are everywhere! Take in mind that there are certain second hand stores that collect clothes, so if you own some clothes you do not use anymore, you can go to thrift shops and donate them. Sometimes it can be possible to make some money in exchange, but it always depends on the store you go to. time tice ized time

3. Be patient. If it is your first buying in a thrift shop, you will nosome of them are not as organas in a boutique. But take your and begin your treasure hunting!

4. Check carefully. Once you find something you like, check if the item does not have stains that are hard to remove. Make sure it has all of the buttons (if it has buttons), and if it is ripped, make sure it is something you can repair after. Take a look at areas such as shoulders, elbows, and knees, as these parts are most likely to break. 64

5. Try it on before buying it. It is important (even for new clothes) that you try it on before you buy them. How many times have you purchased something and when you get home and try it on it does not look as you expected or it does not fit you? So it is better not to lose your time and take few minutes to try on what you found. As the clothes are second hand, they are not expected to fit perfectly, but trying them on can help you find a creative way to wear them, or even modify them. 6. Wash them before using them. Clothes can be cleaned. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what we do when we wash our clothes, and they come back from the laundry looking and smelling pristine. In addition, good quality clothes continue to look intact for much longer than a five dollar t-shirt you bought two months ago that faded and tore after three washes. 7. Try something different. It is okay to have basic clothes in your wardrobe to match with your daily outfits, but if you want to try something new, go to a thrift shop (as they normally have various styles in the store), open your mind, and you will see how you find countless number of innovative items that you can get. Sometimes the things you never thought you would wear are the things you end up loving the most. What better way to stand out than wearing clothes that few people are likely to own?

But you will see, that once you start getting involved in this reusing cycle you will get a grip on it! Some people even experience a certain level of excitement when searching for a certain item, and with it, it also comes the satisfaction of helping the world as this is an eco-friendly way to buy.

In a world dominated by the “IWWIWWIWI” (I Want What I Want When I Want It), the concept of shopping has changed in a bad way, losing the charm of searching for something unique and just buying things to fill this “need” of having more and more. Our wishes as citizens have far exceeded our needs, and that is why sustainability is the loudest conversation in fashion right now. When you purchase something secondhand, you’re eliminating the carbon, water and energy that would have gone into producing something new. Lately, people who usually buy in fast fashion stores are starting to be more concerned about the consequences that comes with it, and wonder how they can help, but at the same time do not feel like wearing something used. But there are many ways to help; you can begin with baby steps and start combining those “new” clothes with some vintage or second handed clothes, and just give it a try. Another way is by modifying the clothes you already have but no longer use and turning them into new garments, or if you definitely do not want them anymore you can always donate them or even sell them instead of throwing them away.

Laura Vallejo Writer and Digital Editor for The Analog Magazine

“Touch Me Before You Buy!” by Mishty Banerjee

This article talks about the importance of textiles, which is something a lot of people forget about when purchasing clothes. At the same time, the article also talks about the importance of vintage clothing and how it is much better than fast fashion. It also gives the readers a list of vintage shops to shop at in Paris, the capital of fashion. And lastly, it gives pro tips on how to purchase high quality clothing that will last them a long time.

Has this ever happened to you before: You buy a new t-shirt or a new sweater, and in two days it looks as if it has aged two years in one wash? Or maybe there is a hole in the jeans you’ve had only for 6 months? Not all clothing is made to last. The quality of our clothes is in decline, and the culprit is the global fashion industry that prioritizes fast production and cheap price tags. We shop constantly, creating a culture of low quality clothes. Quitting cheap fashion is easier said than done. “Touch Me Before You Buy!” “My worry is that, with the kind of crappy quality For centuries, societies have used clothes and other fast fashion that dominates the garments availaadornment as a form of non verbal communication ble to us today, there’s a whole generation growto indicate occupation, rank, gender, sexual avail- ing up that don’t really have any sense of what ability, locality, class, wealth and group affiliation. makes a good-quality fabric and what makes Fashion is a form of free speech. What we wear, a good-quality garment,” says Timo Rissanen, and how and when we wear it, provides a short- co-author of Zero Waste Fashion Design and an hand to subtly read the surface of a social situation. assistant professor of fashion design and sustainIn the same way, Textile and clothing manufac- ability at Parsons School of Design in New York. turing business is one of the most traditional and Textiles are important because they determine oldest industries. The clothing industry dates the quality of clothing. Nowadays, consumers back to four thousand BC when these textiles prefer clothing that is cheap and mass produced were used to preserve and balance body heat. which in turn tends to get ruined very quickly. Despite this being the original function, On the other hand, ‘Vintage Clothing’ refers to fineclothes would also have fabrics portray- ly constructed clothing from the past which meets ing decorative beauty for appearance. high and agreed standards of aesthetic quality.

It represents fine clothing which has survived in numerous conditions and has been specifically preserved because of beauty and true value. Vintage garments pass the test of time; meaning they are considered wearable and beautiful even after the fad is gone. The past, with repeated, enhanced versions, is refined into something more positive than it actually was at that time. Decades are reduced to prominent images; Nineties with the grunge; Eighties had guilt free consumerism; Seventies with glam rock and punk; Sixties was filled with mini skirts and free love; Fifties with the “housewife” stereotypes and the Forties with red lipstick. Vintage clothing brings us nostalgic feelings; people want to reminisce through clothing, channeling a better time. Along with the feelings that vintage clothes give us, they were made with time and better fabrics not used by fashion brands today, unless luxury. In the past, oftentimes luxury materials were used to produce clothes. This shows by how long they’ve actually lasted. Vintage clothing up until the 1950s were made with natural fibres such as 100% cotton, wool, linen, denim, etc. Then there are textiles made from nylon and polyester which are known as the 20th century fibres that include materials like spandex, carbon filament.

Vintage clothing is always better. Here are a few reasons why you should buy vintage. Firstly, it gives a sense of individuality. Why wear something that someone else might be wearing? Most of the vintage items are never seen again so there’s no chance of turning up at a party in the same dress as someone else. But always remember, if you love something, don’t hesitate to get it. Every piece is unique and could be gone when you go back for it. Secondly, it creates nostalgia for the past as I said above. Turn some heads. Dress up in a unique vintage look right out of movies, and be seen! You can satisfy yourself; be Betty Page or Jean Shrimpton one second, and Rita Hayworth the next, and Doris Day on the weekend. Along with that, think of vintage clothing as an investment. As these garments become more collectable, rare and popular, the prices of such clothing rise. The purchase can be a great investment for the future. For example, a good quality vintage Linen dress sold for 50-60 euros ten years ago could be sold for more than 100 euros today. Furthermore, vintage clothing is very eco-friendly. I mean who can argue with that?! Re-using and recycling vintage clothing means you’re not only doing your bit to help the earth by discouraging the production of fast fashion, but you are also getting a much better quality unique individual product. 69

In addition, vintage clothing is known to have superior quality. The high end luxury brands try to imitate this quality, but you can’t beat the original. The quality of textiles used was much better than what is used to today. Plus many of today’s designs lack the attention to detail which give vintage garments their charm. Lastly, it’s collectable. You can indulge your passion for vintage and collect pieces from any designer, style, or era you fancy. It could be anything from bally shoes, Dolly rocker designs, 50s Horrockses frock or lucite handbags. Whatever makes your heartbeat, or the rush of excitement in finding that perfect addition to your vintage collections... is invincible.

Third, one of the most popular , “The Kilo Shop”, with a very simple concept; choose it, weigh it, buy it. This store has everything from jeans, to fur and accessories. You name it. All the clothes are color coded according to their value, and the final price is a result of the weight of items per color group. The Kilo Shop is a fun place to shop if you love fashion and even more fun if you’re a math nerd.

Fourth, we have “Tilt Vintage”. It specializes in four decades between the 1960s and 1990s and also runs a large online operation which is pretParis is a city known for its rich history in fashion ty uncommon for vintage stores. The clothes and arts. This magnificent city is the cradle of fash- are all reasonably priced and in good condition. ion. The relationship between France and textiles Fifth, “Free P Star”. This store is for people started during the reign of Louis the fourteenth. He with the will to dig for buried treasures. Free was known to have an eye for fashion. With the P Star has a lot to offer for both men and womhelp of his minister Jean Baptiste, he set up an en, even if it is crammed into a small space. So immense clothing and textile industry in France. take your time and sift to your heart’s content. And since then, most of the top influential and Then we have the “Rose Market Boutique”, which iconic designers who shaped our fashion future is a haute couture vintage clothing store carryand revolutionized the way people dressed were ing pieces from all the famous fashion houses french. Two of them are Coco Chanel and Chri- you can name: Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Lautian Dior. Coco Chanel brought simplicity and el- rent, and Givenchy. The list goes on and on. egance to the female way of dressing, and Dior Seventh, “Kiliwatch Paris”. It has developed its accentuated the women’s figure after the sec- brand in Paris over the past 20 years. The store ond world war. Contributing to this long list of combines quality second-hand pieces gathered fashion brands are Yves Saint Laurent, Hermes, from around the world featuring major fashion Hubert de Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and others. brands such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Isabel Marant and Paul Smith, with existing new designs from When it comes to collecting vintage, here are a up and coming fashion brands. Its 600 square few of the best vintage shops around Paris: The meters holds an unbelievable amount to discovfirst one is tucked away at the top of one of the er, so think about setting aside some shopping 18th arrondisment’s collected streets. “Chin- time to get the most out of the visit to this store. emachine” is a popular Montmartre institution. Everything here hand picked and is regularly re- Just beyond the periph, near the Porte De Clignanfreshed to suit the customer taste and budget. court, we have “Fanny Miami” that draws attention There’s nothing like a bit of celebrity endorse- with its eye-catching graffiti splashed exterior. ment to bolster a brand’s reputation and british Fashion stylists and amateur fashionistas alike go singer Paloma Faith who is known for her vin- to this recently opened vintage shop which is filled tage style has done that for the second shop we with an excellent selection of second hand clothhave on our list, “Mamie Blue”. This retro clothing spanning from 30s lingerie, 80s cocktail dressing store also provides makeovers and styling es, and glamorous coats all from different eras. including makeup and hair, a restoration and an alteration service that helps you achieve the perfect look. The store has products to fit every important cultural era from the 1900 to 1980s. 70

Ninth, we have “Celia Darling Vintage”. This is the kind of place you’d come if you wanted to get street snapped outside the grand palais during Fashion Week. Owner Celia isn’t just a seller: she worked in art before becoming a vintage clothes specialist. She hand picks all her offerings. That means you’ll come away with an outfit that is truly one of a kind. The second hand clothes range from the forties to the nineties. Last but not least, “Vintage Desir”. The sign outside may be misleading, but the cute boutique in the Marais is actually one of the area’s most renowned vintage clothing stores. A dusty nostalgic scent smell seemingly trails customers around the ever so slightly chaotic shop which is overflowed with dresses, skirts, denim jackets, coats, etc. It also has an eclectic range of accessories.

Now with all these shops in mind, one important advice for all the readers reading this is that always touch and try on clothes before buying them. There are plenty of reasons why you should do this. Above all, different types of fabrics have a different way of fitting on body types even if it’s your size. For example, clothes made of cotton aren’t clingy which is why they’re perfect for warm weather. Another reason to alway touch and judge the fabric your clothes are made from is due to the fact that nobody wants to buy clothes that will last for a few days. The best way to judge a fabric, knit or woven, is to touch it. Does it feel thin, brittle, and rough? Or does it feel smooth, soft, and substantial? That final trait matters because the more fiber there is, the more likely it’s going to last longer. A fabric doesn’t necessarily need to be heavy to be good. If the yarns are tightly packed but thin, the cloth can still be lightweight. What you’re looking for is density. A look at what’s in your closet can also be instructive. Which items have held up well for you, and which haven’t? Feel and examine your own clothes to get a sense of what has allowed some of your garments to age well (given your personal style, rotation of clothes, and laundry habits). Then look for those qualities in your next purchase. At last, coming to the end of this article, I want to conclude again with stating the importance in quality of textiles when buying clothes, especially when you can’t decide on what to purchase, always choose vintage!! It’s made with good quality fabric, lasts longer, it’s sooo eco friendly, vintage clothes are also cheaper and furthermore every item is one of a kind. What more can you ask for? I believe that wearing vintage clothing, in addition to being good for the environment, good for people, and good for the world at large, is a good way to be your truest self.

Xoxo ,

Mishty

Vintage Clothing, How Should I Wear It? by Ankita Saha

T h is a r t i c l e i s re l eva n t to the re a der who is e it h e r i n l o ve w i th vi nta g e cl othing or lo o k i n g f o r w a r d to tryi ng vi n ta g e c lothing a s p e o p l e a r e b e co mi n g more a n d m or e a w a re a b o u t co n su mpti on an d sustaina b ilit y. O u r m a gazi ne s moti ve i s to edu ca t e c o n s u m e rs ab o u t vi nta g e clothing a n d e x a c t l y h ow much of a be tter and su s t a i n a b l e c ho i ce i t i s th a n o th e r fash io n i n d u s t r i e s a n d l et th e m kno w how im p o r t a n t i t i s to sup p o rt th i s vi ntage in d u st r y. Al t h o u gh, i t i s a commo n s tr uggle f o r p e o p l e t o kn o w ho w to w ea r Vintage f a sh i o n i n t h e i r d a i l y l i ves i n the moder n w a y. T h e y e n d u p b e i ng co n fu se d about b u ying a c e r t ai n g a rme n t b e ca u se they w a n t t o a l s o l ook styl i sh i n te rms of the f a sh i o n o f t o d ay a n d h e n ce d o n ot know h o w t o i n c o r p o r ate b o th i n the i r d a ily lives a n d w a r d r o b e . T hi s a rti cl e i s an i n depth st u d y o f m o d e r n tren d s a n d styl i n g hacks w rit t e n i n a n e a sy l an g u a g e to sa ve Vin t a g e c o n s u m e r s or p o te n ti al vi nta ge con su m e r s f r o m t ha t h e cti c stru g g l e and be mo re c o n f i d e nt ab o u t th e i r e n sem bles.

In love with nostalgia and vint age fas h ion? Yet you still want to dr es s ac c or d ingly with the zeitgeist and not l ook outdated? In other wor ds, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; t w ant to look like you cam e str aig ht out of your gr andm aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet but r ather hav e a contem por ar y touch in your l ook ? Dear reader, you have come to the right place. Ther e ar e num er ous r easons to ador e Vintage clothing- Fr om the histor i c al s i g nificance that m akes the clothe s s pec i al , to the or iginal and unique design, to the am azing quality constr uction, ev er y thi ng m akes them wor th wear ing and ti m e less.Also,let us not m iss the fac t that how sustainable it is to inves t i n Vi n tage fashion r ather than fast fas hi on. l would like to shed light on o ne of the r easons that m akes it an ethical dec i s i on to wear Vintage, is that fast- tur n ov er hi gh str eet r etailer s pr oduce appr oximatel y 100 billion gar m ents per year leavi ng a huge am ount of unwanted clothing to di s c ar ded at landfill which could easily be r ec y c l ed.

This is doing mother earth no good; whereas the life cycle of a vintage garment will often begin at a recycling clothing bank-So how can we actually incorporate these amazing oldschool retro gems in our modern wardrobe? It is time for you to pull out the hidden Audrey Hepburn from Roman Holiday in you by unhooking the first two buttons of that old plain white shirt blouse in your mother’s closet and rolling the sleeves up-My point is to embrace the careless beauty and go for an effortless chic look.- This approach towards styling your vintage clothing will bring a modern touch to your overall look as the fashion from the forties to sixties was to have perfectly steamed clothing and everything matched with each other.

“ Raw denim is best given a good six months before washing.The longer you can leave it, the better your jeans will look. ”

states Huit Denim’s official

Nothing would be out of place or wrongly fitted. Here we are trying to make a contrast to that. In my opinion your true style is how you personalise and customise the garments you buy. We believe in our century that perfection is overrated! For a good example about this,you could use different styling hacks like making a not with your silk or cotton vintage chemise in an effortless way at the bottomor even make a pretty bow. Do not worry about having the collar perfectly folded flat and it would also be cool to roll your sleeves up and feel like a stylish lady boss! Get your beloved timeless mom denim jeans and pair it with a velvet spaghetti top with a simple white cotton tee underneath.

It is very interesting that the CEO of Levi’s also said that you should never wash your jeans. Although this creates an air of disgust amongst the people who Mixing and matching different contrasting fab- are not comfortable by the idea of running around rics like silk and velvet with denim and jersey in not washed clothes, Charles V. Bergh elaborates will give your outfit of the day a great edgy look. on this by saying he recommends to clean certain This is how you can manage to look sophisticat- dirty spots on the denim item with a toothbrush ed & casual at the same time. Tip from a pro: There is no better place to get yourself the per- . fect pair of mom jeans than a vintage store!

Although we can all say that it is not a very realistic and hygienic way of maintaining your garments, my apologies to Levi’s, but we also agree to the fact that denim does look better when it ages, just like wine and cheese! It is one of those staple items in your wardrobe that never out of fashion. Now you can use this in your everyday look in a more fun and interesting way. I think it is safe to say that accessorizing can change the complete look of an attire. Wearing modern jewelry with your vintage items can elevate the look and make you look contemporary. Slightly edgy shoes can also mix things up a bit and destroy cliche looks. You can also add vintage accessories like baseball caps, heavy necklaces, brim hats, iconic fur scarves with modern day looks. It is all about the contrast! Neutral accessories can be worn with extravagant garments or heavily printed items to keep the over all tone in balance. Solid colors go perfectly with prints. I would definitely recommend metallic jewelry and belts as well. Pair that A-line ill fitting yet elegant vintage silk dress with a contemporary looking belt and Voila! You now look snatched and unique! Unleash your inner quirky adventurous self and stand out in the best way possible.

Loose beachy waves are a great option from the 40s with neutral eye shadow and red poppy lips that is timeless and goes with almost everything. Have you noticed how street-styles icons wear formal items with casual clothing? This trick of styling is going to make you look instantly fresh and modern, In this generation fashion is not at all very occasion driven as it used to be in the past. We do not have to dress appropriately according to any particular event in our day. In my opinion, in our modern decade we play so many different roles at the same time and in the same day. You have a boardroom meeting at nine in the morning and a cocktail party at six in the evening. We are always busy with doing several things in our day and thus it gets complicated to dress accordingly for any one of those particular events separately. So why not wear something that goes with almost everything? Styling is key. And this way you won’t be replicating the exact same looks from the past with your vintage clothes. You will bring your unique touch to them. For example, Wear your favourite Vintage blazer with a bra-let which will give a bold,strong and sexy vibe at the same time. You can add super casual and sporty

You can add a Pop of color in your look by adding neon coloured pumps or heels or glitter san- shoes with this outfit like your stadals with your solid coloured vintage dresses. Do ple Nike white Airforce sneakers to take not be afraid to experiment. Using trendy sun- the whole look in a more edgy direction. glasses or eye wear with your otherwise whimsical clothes is always an easy and effortless decision for you to make to look modern. We all know how much hair and make up influences our looks. There is no way you are going to want to sit in front of the mirror on a monday morning and create vintage hairstyles like huge poofs and dramatic make-up looks on yourself. Let simplicity shine instead. Portray “Careless beauty” with your messy hair bun with an Edwardian blouse. Feel free to add in two chopsticks in if you feel creative! Even if you feel like wearing a vintage style inspired hairdo do not be afraid if it’s not perfect as that is the vibe we are going for. Giving a casual appearance to classic iconic hairstyles will do you favour. That way you can pay an ode to the vintage Hollywood Divas and still not look like you are wearing a costume. 76

When you decide to wear vintage clothing from head-to-toe, as in with vintage accessories as well, it is still possible to look relavent. Wearing different items from different eras is a key styling way! Unexpected colors that pop, wearing contrasting silhouettes together and layering up distinctive patterns with each other always serves to make a look appear both Fresh and still totally timeless while letting you play with your nostalgic emotions. I personally feel like this styling hack is the most exciting and creative way to wear vintage!

You can ed 20’s ed light (Fish net

wear a blouse coloured tights if

vintage silk chiffon beadpaired with high waistdenim shorts and tights, you are about that life!)

Another great look would be to give the 90’s Grunge look a contemporary twist as Grunge is back in trend for this SS2020.Wear a 90’s vintage plaid shirt in a very casual way, a bit of a baggy fit of the shirt would be prefereable for To give an example of this method, you can this look, with a modern day crop top and high wear a Vintage 60’s coat with an 80’s vin- waisted jeans- and Voila! You have your Grungy tage ruffled full sleeved blouse and a short modern streetsyle look. Wearing shoes over your polka dotted vintage skirt from the 90’s. For trousers is a major trend of SS2020, so bring accessories you can carry a chic 30’s flow- out your vintage suit set and pair them with your er embroidered purse and 70’s Panda brooch. strappy heels around the ankle over your pants. Another example could be, to wear a solid colored shirt from 60’s and tying it up at the waist with printed dress with 50’s silhouettes underneath, and putting the look together with 30’s Vintage pumps and adding an 80’s beret, the star element of course. Vintage as a style in fashion, is a trend in itself in modern day fashion as we all want to feel nostalgic and remember the past to feel happy and hence pay an ode to the past. Although, I wnt you to explore some specific trends from SS2020 and mix-an-match them with actual beautiful pieces from the past that you can get from Vitage stores around. Mixing vintage and new separate items from today, a great way to incorporate freshness in your vintage look. Wear an Edwardian blouse, which is a staple vintage item in my wardrobe and in most other women’s closet too, with a chain zip up sweatshirt and ripped jeans. The items of today in this look like the torn up denim choice makes a way that is both very contemporary and entirely unique and gives you a mysterious lady look. If you are in your beginning stage of working vintage into your wardrobe,i,e., you are new at it, this is the easiest as well as the simplest way of wearing vintage for you.You can take a very special and fancy vintage piece and make it more wearable for day.

Now, you can safely take it back to the 18th century with the Victorian sleeves. Its oversized shape adds an instant feminine touch to your attire. You can also here unleash your inner gothic princess in black or grey or pair a white victorian sleeve blouse with high waisted black trousers. It is also a great time for your vintage ‘80s puff sleeve looks. Be timeless! 77

Wearing feminine dresses with chunky boots is a trend that is back in fashion Solid coloured or printed, a maxi dress with a cinched waist is an easy way to show off your feminine side Paired with Vintage army combat boots, and you’ll be ready for anything!

the world and wanting to adopt that in your wardrobe. Iconic designers like Paul Poiret by the end of the 19th century and Jean Paul Gaultier have been always inspired by Orientalism and have ended up creating iconic pieces from that inspiration.

So next time when you see a gorgeous Kimono on This is a very 90’s approach to styling your the shelves of a Vintage store do not be afraid to clothes yet being trendy at the same time. The get it and wear it with your western attires like a more feminine the dress and the more bold and demin mini skirt and a casual blouse underneath. masculine the shoes are, the better the contrast. The above are just a few of the ways to wear vintage without looking like you belong in a different era. Honestly, the possibilities are endless. Faux leather coats are also another staple item from the 90’s that is back in SS2020! You can pair these coats in bold colors like red or straight In conclusion, up black with your casual jeans and Levi’s tee I hope next time you are at a vintage store, to get a casual yet Also, do you love fashion you think about these few styling hacks and from all around the world? Do you love incor- that they motivate you to buy more Vinporating those fashion items in your outfits? tage fashion and support the vintage industry.

Yes, it does get a bit risky with cultural appropriation, although if done correctly, you can end up with an overall amazing ensemble. In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with appreciating and respecting fashion from different cultures from all around 78

Ankita

How Has The Global Pandemic Affected The Fashion Industry? by Mishty B.

Covid-19 has spurred the biggest economic contraction since World War II, hitting every sector from finance to hospitality. Yet fashion, due to its discretionary nature, is particularly vulnerable. The average market capitalisation of apparel, fashion and luxury players dropped almost 40 percent between the start of January and the 24th of March 2020 which in comparison is a much steeper decline than that of the overall stock market. Humanitarian repercussions are expected to outlast the pandemic itself.

pandemic remains unknown, it is apparent that the fashion industry is just at the beginning of its struggle.

Dire consequences for fashion, one of the biggest industries in the world generating $2.5 trillion in global annual revenues before the pandemic hit, entails joblessness or financial hardship for people across the value chain — from those harvesting the fibres used to make textiles to shop assistants selling the finished fashion product. The estimated revenues for the global fashion industry will contract by 27 to 30 percent in 2020 year-on-year, although the industry could regain positive growth of 2 to 4 percent in 2021.

A freeze on spending is aggravating the supply-side crisis. Widespread store closures for an industry reliant on offline channels, coupled with consumer instinct to prioritise necessary over discretionary goods, hit brands’ bottom lines and depleted cash reserves. Even online sales have declined 5 to 20 percent across Europe, 30 to 40 percent in the US and 15 to 25 percent in China.

By causing blows to both supply and demand, the pandemic has brewed a perfect storm for the industry: a highly integrated global supply chain means companies have been under immense strain as they tried to manage crises on multiple fronts as lockdowns were imposed in rapid succession halting manufacturing in China first, then Italy, followed by countries elsewhere around the world.

On the positive side, The coronavirus pandemic has presented fashion with a chance to reset and completely reshape the industry’s value chain, not For the personal luxury goods industry, the estimat- to mention an opportunity to reassess the values ed global revenue contraction of 35 to 39 percent by which we measure our actions. We expect that in 2020 year-on-year, but positive growth of 1 to 4 themes of digital acceleration, discounting, industry percent in 2021. If stores remain closed for the next consolidation and corporate innovation will be pricoming months, McKinsey analysis approximates oritised once the immediate crisis subsides. Even that 80% of publicly listed fashion companies in Eu- after witnessing waves of insolvencies, industry rope and North America will be in financial distress. leaders will need to get comfortable with uncertainThe interconnectedness of the industry is making it ty and ramp-up their future-proofing efforts as the harder for businesses to plan ahead. Just as China potential for further outbreaks and lockdowns loom. inched through recovery, outbreaks worsened in This will also be a time for collaboration within the Europe and the US. But it is in the developing world, industry — even between competing organisations. where healthcare systems are often inadequate No company will get through the pandemic alone, and poverty is rife, that people will be hit the hardest. and fashion players need to share data, strateFor workers in low-cost sourcing and fashion man- gies and insights on how to navigate the storm. ufacturing hubs such as Bangladesh, India, Cambodia, Honduras and Ethiopia, extended periods of unemployment will mean hunger and disease. Brands, suppliers, contractors and landlords The crisis is affecting our daily lives, instilling anxie- should also find ways to share the burden. ty and uncertainty in the minds of almost everyone. Navigating this uncertainty will not be easy for fashion leaders. Players need to be decisive and start Indeed, consumer pessimism about the econ- putting recovery strategies into motion to emerge omy is widespread, with 75 percent of shop- with renewed energy. The crisis is a catalyst that pers in the US and Europe believing that will shock the industry into change — now is the their financial situation will be impacted neg- time to get ready for a post-coronavirus world . atively for more than two - three months. Though the duration and ultimate severity of the 83