Fall Fashion A Special Section of The Record-Review 9.16.11
Style Revival
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ike the seasons, fashion is cyclical. What comes around, goes around… until it comes around again. This fall is no exception, with current collections telescoping through the decades and reviving favorites of fashion design history. A ’70s maxi skirt here, ’80s glam there, a chic midcentury pencil skirt and peplum jacket, and sleek leather and posh fur from the ’90s. With such variety, there is truly something for every taste and mood. This fall is a well-curated collection. Mad for plaid
Does anyone hear bagpipes bellowing in the background? It just might be the music of the season, given the current popularity of tartan plaids. Look for traditional kilts, wool skirts and heavy capes, as well as more creative interpretations in lighter-weight trousers and flowing dresses. Tartan scarves in a multitude of hues are By another option. While catwalks showcased models draped head to toe in plaid, the trend is most TRACI versatile when anchored with classic turtlenecks and blouses. Leather loafers and sweet Mary DUTTON Janes round out a wholesome collegiate look. LUDWIG But when paired with tall boots and shiny brass buckles, plaid graduates to high street chic. Possibly eyeing the iconic Burberry mini skirt? This is definitely the year to invest in that fashion icon. Green goddess
Usually associated with spring’s verve, green is the unexpected color of the fall. In all tonal variations — from classic kelly greens to bright limes to rich forest shades to jewellike teals — green is making statements this season. Because it is derived from nature, the color is universally flattering on all skin tones and with all colors of hair. Combine green with the season’s darker standbys, like brown or chocolate, for an instant classic. Searching for creative elegance? Juxtapose green with purple or lilac — its natural complements on the color wheel. Want to scream “look at me”? Electrify green with a kiss of orange. Or simply wear green alone, with accents of gold jewelry, to truly shine — and make everyone else green with envy. Animal magnetism
Can you hear fashion’s purr this season? It’s the allure of fur, fur, fur. Classic mink coats are making a comeback, as are beaver collars, sable cuffs and chinchilla stoles — or at least their faux counterparts. Fur vests — authentic or not — are every fashionista’s go-to piece for instant style. Many vests take extra shape with broad leather belts and ties. This season, the ubiquitous cashmere sweater is absolutely luxe with dangling fur puffs and fur trim. Designers must be hoping for a frosty snowy wonderland, as Russian-inspired winter hats, fur-trimmed gloves and fur-trimmed boots are in, in, in! Now all the well-dressed lady needs is a sleigh and Doctor Zhivago. Long and lovely
Skirt lengths rise and fall with the seasons. After a few rounds of minis and tunic-length dresses, THE look for fall is all about maxi skirts, floor-grazing dresses and flowing palazzo pants. This long, loose aesthetic recalls the cool groove of the 1970s and the glamorous decadence of the 1980s. However, modern textiles have artfully replaced the uncomfortable synthetics of the past. To work this style, stay clear of prim pioneer skirts and embrace diva sensuality or disco funk instead. Look for languid hemlines in liquidy fabrics that caress the body while slinking to the floor. Or go for voluminous skirts with undulating MexContinued on page 6A
Inside Makeup your mind: the finishing touch!.............2A Hair today: newest styles are shorter, simpler......3A Skin care: sunless tanning safety........................4A Fashion focus on eyewear....................................5A Courtesy of En Vogue
Accessories: big, bold and beautiful...................6A
Fall Fashion
Page 2A ThE record-review
Friday, September 16, 2011
Makeup your mind: the finishing touch
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t’s an age-old dilemma, a problem that perhaps has confused woman since the dawn of time: Is the correct makeup choice based on the clothes a person is wearing, or should the decision come from skin tone alone? We imagine Cleopatra, lounging on her barge with Marc Antony, wondering, “Am I wearing the right makeup with this gown? Do I have too much eye shadow on for this time of day?” Or, “It’s summer. Maybe I should have lightened up a bit on this lipstick?” By For decades many Mary women have relied on color analysis in order Legrand to find the perfect makeup to complement one’s clothing and skin tone. It’s a choice that transcends seasonality and can remain perfect from year to year. Color analyst Jessica Riolo of Authentic Images in Hastings-on-Hudson has been in business since 1995 and works by private appointment and in her studio. She makes up samples of her clients’ skin tones and creates a color palette unique to each woman. “I do a very specific, very unique design to match a client’s skin tone perfectly,” Riolo said. “It’s absolutely right, just for them.” Ultimately, the individual color palette Riolo provides includes paint chips and fabric swatches combined in a kit small enough to be carried in a client’s handbag. The client then carries the kit with her wherever she goes, “so she can always match her colors when she’s out shopping or doing
a paint project for her home,” Riolo said. Riolo was trained at the Academy of Color by the late Suzanne Caygill, a California fashion designer and milliner who originated what’s known as Seasonal Color Theory. Almost 70 years ago, in 1942, Caygill said, “Human beings, the highest order of nature, carry information about their personality and style in their own natural coloration — the pigments of their skin, hair and eyes — and these colors are related to the color harmonies in nature.” “Color is a very sophisticated and exact science,” Riolo said. “If you go outside and look at any form of nature, you will see that it includes several shades of pigments. But pigments are consistent; that’s why in great art, the colors are consistent. There are reliable relationships in color.” The idea of what Riolo does at Authentic Images is to “enhance the grooming of a person, make the look echo a person’s natural beauty,” she said. “First you should match the makeup to yourself, and if your outfits are in sympathy with that, it’s simple.” Color analysis is helpful at any age, Riolo said, but she suggests a client be analyzed while she’s young. Then, Riolo said, “she will have a kit of personal color she can rely on, whether designing her office, buying an interview suit or a wedding gown. When it is the color most sympathetic to her natural color, most people tend to like it. The color kit is a resource that goes on for decades. It never gets tired.” At SpaceNK in Scarsdale, aesthetician Lisa Glaser agrees that a woman’s skin tone and features are the most important aspects when it comes to makeup choice.
The cardinal rule — at least in terms of the eyes — is to “match the eye makeup to the color of the eye, to the skin tone,” she said. “Certain blue eyes look good in bronzes, browns and plums.” And skin tone “always needs to be evened out” before applying makeup, especially in the late summer and early fall. “A lot of us have been out in the sun all summer,” she said. “The tan is fading unevenly. You might have a little redness around the nose. There are always discolorations — almost no one has perfectly even skin.” Glaser and her associates at SpaceNK pay attention to the features and natural skin tone of a client before suggesting foundation and makeup colors. “Even if they just use a tinted moisturizer, a light foundation, it always evens out the skin and you get a basic canvas,” she said. Trends can come and go in the makeup world, and this year, according to Glaser, the look is a nude lip and smoky eye. Or, she said, just the opposite: a “minimal” eye, with a dark black line, and then a darker lip. “That’s what they’re showing on the runways, and a lot of makeup artists who were doing really light and natural for the last few seasons are now doing a little bit more dressed up,” Glaser said. “It’s a little bit more work, but I think it sort of cheers people up.” Area salons including Space NK frequently advise clients who are planning to attend events such as weddings and galas. Clients sometimes will bring the outfit along with them for advice on makeup application or even a trial run of putting it
on. Choosing the correct color is important, Glaser said. Instead of bringing the dress into the salon, “For special occasions a client may wish to bring a picture of the dress she plans to wear,” she said. “If it’s a bride we look at the theme of the wedding, the flowers she’s going to carry. We try very hard to make people look their best regardless of what color they’re wearing.” Dina Altieri, who, along with Kari Puckhaber, owns KD Studio in Katonah, said the “makeup matching the outfit” rule was “broken a long time ago. There’s really no such thing as matching makeup to outfits. Your makeup flatters your natural coloring and your skin tone.” Educating a client who may or may not know she could use a change in makeup style — whether she’s using an outdated eye color, perhaps too little or too much makeup — is done with tact. “We steer our clients very gently and very delicately,” Altieri said. “I put my teaching hat on — ‘These are the basics of skin care, these are the basics of makeup.’ I would never want to force anyone or make them feel bad about what they’re currently wearing.” In the end, Altieri said, “makeup should always look like it belongs on the person who’s wearing it. There’s a big difference between the makeup wearing you and you wearing the makeup.” Once the makeup complements the skin tone and coloring, she said, “You can go home and look amazing.” KD Studio also counsels clients who want to look their best at an upcoming special event. “We ask them how fancy an
event is, where it takes place and in what time of day,” Altieri said. “It’s completely within the realm of possibility that a client would bring in the clothing that she’ll be wearing that day. About 25 percent of the women bring the article of clothing; another 25 percent bring a photograph, and the others just describe it. It’s a great feeling to help them make choices for special occasions, because what you’ve done is help someone look at themselves in a different way, and also feel pretty.” Ultimately, a woman wants to look and
feel her best, and the right color choices and makeup work to make that happen. “You have to honor the woman, how she likes her makeup to work and go within those parameters so you can give her something that truly shows her face to the world,” Altieri said. Riolo of Authentic Images said the choices are ultimately quite simple. “It can be just a matter of degrees” between wearing the right and wrong makeup and outfits. “Any woman can be beautiful if she’s wearing the right color.”
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Fall Fashion
ThE record-review Page 3A
In ALinked Little Boho
Hair today: Newest styles are shorter, simpler
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all is always a season of big change — students return to school, parents rejoice in their regained postsummer independence, and the weather turns cooler. So it’s not surprising that many women ask for a fresh, new look when it comes to their hair. Julius Michael, owner of Julius Michael Hair Salon in Scarsdale, said hairstyles change when fashion trends change. As for knowing what those upcoming trends are, he has what he calls a “secret head’s-up.” A good friend “runs IMG Fashion Week, so I know what all the top designers are looking for hairwise,” he said. By “That’s what I bring to Westchester.” Mary Area stylists including Legrand Michael said one trend they’re seeing is that women don’t want to fuss with their hair as much as they have in the past. Right now, “the long-hair look is kind of phasing out,” he said. “Everyone’s going to shoulder length, and the shag look is coming back. It’s easier in that you can rough-dry your hair. You don’t have to put so much effort into it. Women don’t want to flat iron. You can leave a little curl in your hair and it looks good and falls right into place.” Vera Elezovic, owner of Chou Chou Salon in Hastings-on-Hudson, agreed that the trend these days is more toward a natural look. “When it comes to hair cuts, many are going to a medium, shoulder-length style,” she said. “They’re a lot into layering, putting in bangs, which soften the face. Even if you don’t touch the rest of the hair, putting in bangs will change the whole look, will make a person look completely different.” In doing hair, “it’s always about making our clients happy and keeping them happy,” Elezovic said, citing “open conversation” that takes place at each appointment. “We listen to our clients and often they want a change after a couple of months. It doesn’t have to be a big change.” Maria Amoretti and Ivone Periera, owners of Ultimate Image Salon in Scarsdale, said the main hair trends for the fall are “lots of layers” to add movement and texture. “Fall colors are more toned down and richer,” they noted. “Brunettes are richer, and there are lots of dimensional colors.” They said the main hair trend for the fall is having hair that is smooth, but having lots of body shine and bounce. “Women are still loving to have long hair, which allows more versatility in style than shorter hair,” Amoretti and Periera wrote. For special occasions, “there are fewer updos and more blown-out hair that is bouncy, soft and sexy.” Gabriel Abrams is owner of Numi and Company in Scarsdale, with a second loca-
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our customers are going back to work or getting back from vacation, we definitely see a lot more coloring. One coloring technique that’s in and has been for the past year is ombre,” in which the hair remains dark at the roots and is lightened more and more toward the hair ends. “You don’t have to color it as often as you used to,” Abrams said. “It’s not for everybody, but it is in style and is one of the latest coloring techniques out there. It’s a technique that pretty much goes to the point that people want less, where you do less to your hair in terms of coloring.”
tion in Rye opening “hopefully in December,” according to Abrams. Abrams called this fall’s look “really more a beachy hair — long and tousled, like not much was done with it. Bangs are in, but not your regular bangs — more ‘piecey,’” meaning soft.
happy because we listen to what they want.” Another way to make life easier is to ask for a shorter haircut. Michael said, “A lot of the pixie cuts are back, not the Dorothy Hamill look, more like Demi Moore in ‘Ghost,’ short, with cropped sides in the back.”
The frizz biz One way to make life easier, particularly for women whose hair is frizzy, is to take advantage of the range of straightening treatments available at area salons. Aya Miyamoto, manager of Momotaro in Scarsdale, said her family’s salons here and in Manhattan have been well known for 30 years for their Japanese straightening technique. “We were one of the first to do it,” she said. “Now practically everyone carries Japanese and Brazilian straightening.” Her clients — of all ethnic backgrounds — still ask for their hair to be straightened, but the look now is “more natural,” Miyamoto said. “People like volume, they like the curls, and they’re not going for that pin-straight look anymore. Our clients are
Color-fall “The end of August starts the rush of the fall colors,” Michael said. “A lot of what I’m seeing is either going very dramatic or very subtle with the color. People are putting in funky colors. A lot of older women are putting hot pink and magenta highlights in their hair.” In terms of general coloring, “the warmer color trends are in, more of the caramels, the honey blondes,” Michael said. “Ashy tones are not in, the cool blondes are out, white blondes are not in style. It’s more the Kate Winslet tones, brunettes are warmer, caramel, soft reds.” “In terms of coloring, reds are in, overall there’s a lot more red than blonde,” said Abrams of Numi. “Around September when
Classic looks Local salon owners agree that some classic looks never go out of style. Quite a few women are pulling their hair up and twisting it into a chignon or putting it in braids. Michael and Abrams emphasized that their salons’ stylists work hard to educate their clients on how to accomplish a chignon or braids by themselves at home. The use of the classic hot roller set is still very popular, to the point where many beauty supply shops are sold out. And as for the more recent trend of putting feathers in hair extensions, the look is still in, but typically now only with the younger set. Abrams cautioned clients of any age to “think before adding hair extensions,” particularly if one’s hair is short or fine. “You’re putting your hair in jeopardy because more of your own natural hair tends to come out with the extensions” when the extensions are removed. “Our whole philosophy is this — just because a woman’s hair is fine or short doesn’t mean it won’t look stylish or cannot be stylish,” he said. “It doesn’t matter the length of the hair; what matters is the right hair style for it.”
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Make it special Women still want to look their absolute best for special occasions. “Lately brides are going toward a more natural look,” Elezovic of Chou Chou said. “Young people these days want their hair to be more simple, natural, instead of having those updos and curls. They prefer soft waves, soft makeup for their wedding day. When it comes to coloring, a lot of brides are going for highlighting alone, keeping the natural look of their own hair color.” Abrams said, “Special event hair is mostly loose, more down and wavy, with not too many curls.” Wedding styles are “super-dramatic. Brides are either going classic or up and clean, with no hair down,” Michael said. “Some younger brides are leaving their hair down. I follow my top designers to see what they’re doing on the runway, and that’s how you keep up with the trends. As soon as Kate Middleton did that, it became big.”
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Fall Fashion
Friday, September 16, 2011
health and Beauty
Skin Care: Safety is a must with sunless tanning systems
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ack in the days when the baby boomers were teenagers, kids slathered their skin with oil and barbecued themselves in the sun. Today, we know a lot more about skin care and the dangers of sunburn. But strangely enough, we’ve also learned ways of mistreating our skin that make basting ourselves with baby oil look tame. Like many of the dictates of fashion, the idea of having a deep suntan year-round is contradictory. Images in By fashion magazines and on TV convince many Jackie people with fair skin to lupo cultivate a suntan all year round. A few years ago, the hosiery in- dustry went into a tailspin when a whole generation of women suddenly started going out barelegged, even in the winter — a look that is deemed less than attractive when legs are pale white. At the same time, researchers have been finding that the frequency of skin cancer is increasing. And while people are aware of the importance of using sunscreen, recent studies show that people tend to use it irregularly or incorrectly. Ironically, recent research also confirms that when people do use sunscreen, even one with a low SPF, they can significantly reduce their chances of developing skin cancer. The Skin Cancer Foundation estimates that up to 90 percent of the visible changes in the skin commonly attributed to aging are actually caused by the sun. How does it happen? Research is ongoing, but it is known that when the skin is tanned beyond its normal complexion, the DNA in the skin cells called melanocytes — the cells that produce the dark colored melanin pigment — become damaged. Once the damage is done, it’s done. A blistering sunburn that’s experienced in middle school can set the stage for skin cancer to develop years later. How big is the problem? According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the United States, with over 3.5 million cases diagnosed in over 2 million people each year. That’s more than cancers of the breast, prostate, lung and colon combined. And over the past three decades, more people have had skin cancer than all other forms of cancer put together. Unfortunately, the pursuit of a fashionable tan has played a part in the increased incidence of skin cancer. Between 19802004, the annual incidence of melanoma
among young women increased by 50 percent. Exposing skin to the sun without the proper use of sunscreens is one factor accounting for skin cancers in young women. But the advent of indoor tanning is another: women and girls between the ages of 16-29 make up 71 percent of tanning salon patrons. Tanning misconceptions
What you don’t know about tanning can hurt you. Even people who are aware of the risks of exposure to ultraviolet radiation may assume that some methods of tanning are safer than others. But the fact is, there’s really no such thing as “safe” exposure to UV rays, whatever the source of those rays may be, and no matter how light or dark your skin is. Misconceptions about tanning abound. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), a recent survey found that 40 percent of tanning bed users believe they can prevent sunburn on vacation by getting tanning bed treatments beforehand in order to get a “base” tan. But a dark tan on white skin provides an SPF of only between 2-4. What’s more, tanning beds mainly emit UVA radiation, which create a tanning effect by increasing the amount of melanin pigment in the upper levels of the
skin. UVB light, found in natural sunlight, causes the epidermis to thicken, which offers slightly more protection against further exposure to UV radiation. Some people seem to get hooked on indoor UV tanning, enjoying the look of a year-round tan and assuming that this type of exposure to UV radiation is somehow less harmful than outdoor suntanning. But the Skin Cancer Foundation states that people who use UV tanning beds are 74 percent more likely to develop melanoma than people who have never tanned indoors. The organization estimates that 10 minutes in a tanning bed has cancercausing effects equal to 10 minutes in the Mediterranean sun. The WHO says that certain people are more susceptible to sun damage: people under age 18; those with very fair skin; people who burn easily or tan poorly; people with lots of freckles or moles; individuals who have had skin cancer before or who have a family history of skin cancer; people who already have skin damaged by the sun; and people who take medications that make them sensitive to ultraviolet light. But that doesn’t mean that people who don’t fall into these categories don’t need to protect their skin. Not only can dark-skinned peo-
ple develop skin cancer, but they may not be aware of it as soon. The Skin Cancer Foundation notes that African-American melanoma patients have a greater tendency than Caucasians to already be in advanced stages of the disease at the time of diagnosis. Even the use of “sunless” self-tanners can result in unintended sunburns. Many people who use self-tanners assume that since a chemical reaction occurs that turns your skin dark, then your skin will somehow be protected from sunburn. But that is simply not the case. Sunless tanners do not provide any protection against UV rays. It’s still absolutely necessary to use sunscreen, no matter how dark the self-tanning product makes the skin appear. Safer, sunless tanning
As the dangers of UV radiation have become widely known, self-tanning products have taken center stage as a safer way to tan. Whether applied at home or at a salon, most sunless tanners start with the same active ingredient, dihydroxyacetone (DHA). DHA is a naturally occurring sugar that reacts with dead cells in the top layer of the skin, giving it a darker appearance. While the dark color won’t wash off, it will only last a few days. That’s because your skin is
always forming new cells and shedding the outermost layer of cells — the very cells that are affected by self-tanners. When self-tanning products hit the market, the results were uneven and tended to look unnaturally orange. The ones available today are much more natural looking, but do-it-yourselfers can still have a hard time applying the product evenly, especially in hard-to-reach areas. It’s also extremely important to exfoliate thoroughly before using a self-tanner; using an exfoliating scrub works better than just a loofah, preparing the skin to tan more evenly. If you want a really natural-looking sunless tan, a salon spray tan is definitely the way to go. At Spa Lamya in Irvington, clients are tanned with an airbrush to prevent the streaky appearance common with earlier self-tanning creams. “The color is mixed differently for each customer’s skin tones,” said owner Lamya Malkhouf. “You don’t walk out looking orange.” Malkhouf said the process her salon uses, “Brazilian Bronze Glow Bar,” takes about a half hour to apply by hand with an airbrush, being careful to go easy on areas such as knees and elbows, which tend to darken more. The formula also contains a cellulite inhibitor. With proper exfoliation beforehand, the treatment can last 7-10 days. Sandy Cossa-Ortiz, owner of Dare to be Bare in Eastchester, said the end of summer, when natural suntans begin to fade, is a good time to start using sunless tanners. “To extend a tan, use a little selftanner, maybe once a week. Your tan will fade more naturally.” An airbrush tan can cost upward of $50. A less expensive option is the spraytanning machine, such as the 360-degree spray tan machine available at Platinum Tanning in Hartsdale. The process takes five minutes and costs less than $20 for a tan that lasts five to six days. Some veteran self-tanners prefer a tan applied by hand with an airbrush, because the technician can direct the spray exactly where it is needed and avoid areas that might take on too much color. If you do opt to use a spray-tanning machine instead of a humanoperated airbrush, ask the attendant at the salon for a skin cream to mask areas such as elbows and knees that tan more readily than the rest of your skin. With any of these methods, all the spa owners agree that it’s essential to exfoliate vigorously before you show up at the salon.
Get your skin ready for fall
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ummer’s over, and although it’s hard to believe, it won’t be long before your skin faces a whole new set of challenges: dry air from central heating, and chapping from the cold and wind. Many women know they need a moisturizer that is heavier than the one they use in the summer. What many may not realize is that even in the dead of winter, the sun can be doing damage to skin. Moisturizer that contains sunscreen is a must, especially if your face is exposed to the sun during outdoor activities such as skiing. Hands can also take a beating during cooler weather. Driving a car with the heat on can make hands and lips painfully chapped, if the heating system blows hot air directly on the backs of your hands and on your face. If you spend a lot of time in the car, wear gloves and lip balm. And at night, slather on your thickest hand cream, and wear a pair of white cotton gloves to bed. Fall is a good time to give skin a fresh start with a visit to a skin care salon. Christie Lavigne, skin care manager at Oasis Day Spa in Dobbs Ferry, said clients want to recapture that alive, dewy look: “At the beginning of the summer, your skin looks nice with the first tan. But as damage from the sun sets in, skin doesn’t look as fresh. You will want to remove the dead layer of skin using microdermabrasion.” Lavigne said that winter, especially in New England, is so long, and dehydrated skin cannot keep moisture in. “If you don’t address dry skin, it has an ‘eggshell barrier’ that moisturizer can’t penetrate,” she explained. She said that the exfoliation that dermabrasion provides will prep the skin to receive treatment products. At Spa Lamya in Irvington, the facialist is a registered nurse who is trained to look for problems in clients’ skin. In addition, owner Lamya Malkhouf suggests that everyone visit a dermatologist at least once a year: “A dermatologist can take pictures of what your skin looks like year to year, in case there are any changes.” —Jackie Lupo
Friday, September 16, 2011
Fall Fashion
ThE record-review Page 5A
Fashion focus: eyewear
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ou’ve made your peace with having to wear corrective lenses, so why not have fun with eyeglass frames and mix it up, change your look to suit your mood and complement your wardrobe? Times and lens technology have changed since I was a fourth-grader making my first trip to the optometrist’s office. Although the blue cat’s eye glasses I had in the 1960s are back in style, options were few back when glasses were considered more an appliance for the visually impaired than a By way to make a fashion Debra statement. Wearing glasses is now cool and no longer Banerjee seen as an impediment to style or beauty. Eyeglasses are fashion accessories and frames designed by the top names in fashion have made the choices and the possibilities all the more exciting. Fit comes first. With the help of your optician and optometrist, you’ll get comfort and style. They have the “eye” and the experience to help you find the perfect pair of glasses. • “Eyeglass shopping should most of all be fun,” said Stacy Zlatin of Eye Q Optometrist in Scarsdale. “When you enter an optical store consider it a great adventure into a personal transformation.” • “Eyeglasses are truly an accessory as opposed to shoes or bags,” said Dr. Michael Rosen of Eye Gallery in Scarsdale. “It’s the first thing that people see. It’s important to have a nice, quality pair of glasses.” • “They’re part of your face,” said Teresa Gelsi of Terri Optics in Dobbs Ferry. “It should be like yin and yang. They should look like they belong on you.” The first thing to take into consideration when picking out frames is the shape of your face. Is it round, square or long? Zlatin said, “When choosing eyeglasses for one’s face you must look at one’s facial features. Take into account the distance between the eyes, the bridge of the nose, the shape of the face and skin and hair tones.” The shape of the frame should be the
opposite shape of the person’s face, Zlatin noted. A round face takes the cat eye shape, a square face a rectangular or round frame, and a longer face, the rectangular shape. Once you find the frame shape that’s right for you, fitting is essential. “I’m a bridge fanatic,” said Sharon Decker of Eye Designs of Westchester in Scarsdale. (The bridge is the piece that rests on the top of the nose.) “The bridge has to fit. A lot of people come in and say, ‘I hate these glasses, they slip down’ or ‘I can’t get used to these progressive lenses.’ Nine times out of 10, the bridge is not fitted properly. It’s either too narrow or too wide. It’s the main connection of the frame. If that’s not correct, everything will be off.” “You want to make sure the frame is in proportion to the face, that the color of the frame complements the complexion,” said Gelsi, who uses her expertise in the “color and season” concept to help customers find a good frame. Ed Klotz of Bauer Optics in Hastings is “brutally honest” with his customers, he said, “even if you are in love with the glasses.” A person who wears glasses every day should incorporate a minimum of two different looks for an eyewear wardrobe. “Eyeglasses are an accessory that can really change the way the world sees you,” Zlatin said. She suggests owning a “light, somewhat invisible pair” for work or day wear and a “bold and adventurous pair.” “So, if you are a business man or woman and want to portray an image to your colleagues, your glasses can help,” Zlatin said. “Then choose a bold, fun pair to wear when you return from work and for the weekends.” Rosen suggests at least three pairs — a conservative pair for business, “a funky pair for weekends, then a backup in case one breaks.” And don’t forget sunglasses, “at least two good pairs,” Rosen said. Oversize sunglasses are still very much in style, he said. The key with sunglasses is to get maximum coverage of the eyes from UVA and UVB rays. Rosen recommends polarized lenses to cut down glare.
D’Alessandro The Salon at Armonk
Gary D’Alessandro is proud to announce World Class Master Colorist
Christina Nappi has joined our staff
Klotz said there is more leeway in choosing sunglasses. “They are more a reflection of your personality,” he said. Klotz will help the athletically inclined find the type of sunglasses best suited for their particular outdoor activity. After shape and fit, it’s a matter of personal style and comfort. People can get stuck in their comfort zone, though, and go back to the same uninspired frame style again and again. “I will push them out of their comfort zone,” Decker said. “Nine out of 10 people love it, they get compliments. That’s my business, trying to do that for people, getting them to try something they wouldn’t normally have picked out on their own.” What’s hot right now are oversize plastic frames a la Jackie Onassis, retro “Mad Men” inspired styles, and the bold, chunkier “framey” look that Hollywood types and newscasters wear. For men, “hands down, aviators are still the most popular,” Rosen said. Lightweight titanium frames, titanium with color, and frames with two-tone decorative temples are also popular. But it’s “anything goes,” in today’s eyeglass fashions, Gelsi said. Younger people tend to “defy fashion rules,” and sometimes “the imperfect shape on the face is what people want. The big, droopy styles are what they want.” Gelsi generally takes into consideration
a customer’s age, lifestyle and personality, whether they’re “Talbot’s or J. Jill.” Magdi Binn of Scarsdale, who gave up her contact lenses after needing reading glasses, has “six or seven” pairs of glasses, she said. She changes her glasses to suit her mood and her outfit. Among her pairs are a “multipurpose” gold and chrome metal frame, a red, orange and white pair for a “younger, contemporary look,” a white frame for summer, an orange and green frame to wear with earth tones, and glasses for evening with pale pink crystals on the temple. “I like to make a statement,” Binn said. “It’s like changing a purse or a lipstick.” The rectangle shape suits her face, she said, but when she’s buying frames, often in her native Budapest when she’s back visiting, “I look for something different.” “When there was a renaissance of the 1960 circle frame, I had to have it,” Binn said. “A friend said, ‘It looks horrible on you, but don’t worry, it looks expensive!’ She was right. That was a fashion boo-boo. I had to have it because it was popular. You should buy and wear what suits your face and your body. When you buy what you feel comfortable in, you look good. Buy what makes you feel attractive. That’s the best purchase.” Luckily, you have to go no further than Westchester to find the best frames and eye care advice the world has to offer.
Christina, the former owner of ZAZO salon in Bedford, New York, has built a successful career and has worked with many industry stars, including Warren Tricomi, Louis Licare, Vidal Sassoon and Bumble & Bumble. She was recipient of Top Colorist award from Westchester magazine, and has been featured in the Journal News, Westchester Wedding Magazine, and the Westchester Wag. She has worked on numerous hair and fashion shows, and is no stranger to photo shoot sets in California, Miami and New York, not to mention featured in a Channel 12 news segment highlighting TOP COLORISTS in the New York area. We are pleased to have Christina join our family and can’t wait for you to experience her color artistry!
D’Alessandro The Salon at Armonk
475 Main Street, Armonk, New York • 914-273-0988
New for Fall... FINE JEWELRY
FAshion Tips
Finding shoes to inspire confidence, comfort
Interview success
One of the most inconvenient times for women to face fabulitis is during a job interview, especially since the right shoes are an essential component to feeling comfortable and confident. That’s why the makers of Dr. Scholl’s For Her are launching an interactive campaign to support Dress for Success
Worldwide, a nonprofit organization that offers professional attire, a network of support and career development tools to women entering the workforce. The program will help empower women by contributing confidence-inspiring footwear and insoles to keep them comfortable while interviewing for jobs. London shares her tips for achieving fashion, comfort and confidence when tackling a job interview: • Comfort is key: Such a big part of achieving success is feeling comfortable in your own skin — and shoes for that matter. Go for heels and add a Dr. Scholl’s for Her insole for comfort. • Suit up: Suits (pant or skirt) are always appropriate. Pair suits with more feminine, colorful or textured tops to add flair. • Must-haves: Every woman should have
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It’s not about the number on the scale or the size of your jeans — confidence and sass come from looking and feeling great in clothing that’s perfect for you. And when you slip on your favorite pair of jeans, you walk taller and strut a little more. Here are some tips to help you look and feel your best this season: • Flaunt what you’ve got: Focus on what you love — whether it is your beautiful smile or fabulous hair — don’t be afraid to show off your best assets. And don’t measure the success of your weight management by the number on the scale. Instead, focus on what you will gain when you lose this year. Perhaps a little bit more moxie and sass? Or a boost in confidence? • Go from day to night: You can also go from casual chic to evening elegant by
pairing darker wash jeans with a sequin top, chandelier earrings and a pair of sassy stilettos. • Visualize success: Use the image of yourself on the runway of a national fashion show while you are walking around your home, office or community. Carry yourself with the same confidence as the models you love to watch on the runway. • Drop a jean size. Whether you are comfortable with your current weight or looking to set new goals, what you eat can make a difference. For example, the Special K Challenge can help kick start your weightmanagement plan. Replace two meals with a serving of Special K cereal, meal replacement protein shake or protein meal bar, followed by a sensible, balanced third meal for a period of two weeks to lose up to six pounds. For more information, visit www. specialK.com. • Think Color. For post-summer blues, add some color to your routine by testing out a pair of colored jeans, such as red denim. Or dare to take your color even further with colored corduroys. Bold colored, fitted pants will pair perfectly with a light-colored, blousy top. The bottom line is to pick-and-choose what fashion trends work for you, because when you feel great, you look great. — StatePoint
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It’s no secret that shoes can either make or break an outfit. But can uncomfortable shoes also affect your confidence? According to a recent study, 94 percent of women say they feel good when their feet feel good. Stacy London, style expert and host of TLC’s “What Not To Wear,” has partnered up with the makers of Dr. Scholl’s For Her. She agrees that when it comes to shoes women can look good and feel good at the same time. “As a stylist, I know that finding a balance between fashion and comfort can sometimes be tricky,” she said. “And chances are that most women have experienced ‘fabulitis,’ the discomfort caused by the decision to wear uncomfortable, yet fabulous shoes. That’s why I use Dr. Scholl’s For Her insoles, because I can wear the shoes I want and feel comfortable doing it.”
a comfortable closed-toe heel for suiting and separates, a pencil or simple A-line skirt and a suit. • Walk the talk: Choose clothes and shoes that look and feel good for your body type, stand up tall and show your style with confidence. — ARA Content
Contemporary American and European Designers
Accessories report
The big, bold and beautiful
F
ashion begins with clothing and ends with accessories. Jewelry, bags and shoes are essential components of any wardrobe. They can switch up an outfit from day to night or interject an attitude of oomph. Quite By simply, accessories are the difference traci between looking dutton good and looking great. This fall’s Ludwig accessories drop demure and instead go all out for diva. Big and bold take center stage and shine. Here’s what to look for this season: oversized and sometimes bedecked with gemstones. To achieve the best detail, many of these pendants are fabricated in a mixture of gold- and silver-toned metals. They look great on long chains and combine easily with most other jewelry. Color blocking
Fashion’s fever for color blocking and basic black and white has translated to the realm of accessories. Look for shoes, boots and handbags styled in a mixture of two leathers — such as brown and black or dyedleather combined with a natural tone. Leather accents look best when they follow the form of the object. For example, black boots with a brown leather “cuff” or chestnut-colored shoes with a rounded red leather toe are supremely wearable. So too are black and white styles, as a modern take on spectator pumps. With handbags, color blocking can be more playful. Some designers are opting for a pieced-together quiltlike look in various colors.
Cuffs
To make a statement, wrists require wide cuff bracelets or dense stacks of bangles. Channel your inner superstar by adorning both wrists with metal cuffs, Wonder Woman-style. Or pile on bracelets to add exotic flair to one or both arms. Don’t be afraid to mix materials and styles — variety is in; and the more, the better. With such fun wrist jewelry, flaunt it by talking with your hands. Dangling earrings
Clutches and satchels
Fashionistas are hoping for a cold snap because headwear is huge this fall. Hats are absolutely essential — and encompass everything from seemingly effortless fedoras to chic French berets to tight knit wool caps to fur puffs. Fedoras can be structured or soft — and if you choose a well-made classic, it will serve you for years. As temperatures drop, look for exaggerated Russian-inspired fur hats to dress up somber winter coats.
Revival Continued from page 1A
Swing out
Chokers
Hats and fur
ican ruffles or asymmetrical hemlines — a perfect dancer’s look that anyone can wear. To balance volume and length on the bottom, pair maxi skirts with fitted tops. With demure covered ankles, you might want to consider showing some skin through a low back, a draped neckline or bare cut-away shoulders. Dramatic shoes and exaggerated ethnic jewelry at the neck and wrists add visual interest where it counts.
This season confidence is in. Skimpy little necklaces are for babies; instead, grown-up babes will be looking hot in choker-style bands this fall. All attention will rise to the neck, beautifully emphasized by broad strips of leather, flat silk ribbons, molded plastic or metal bands. Chokers are perfectly at home with the season’s edgy silhouettes and glamorous clothes. Be creative and fashion your own by tying on a beautiful ribbon or by shortening bulky costume jewelry to sit close to the neck.
Following the muse of the ’70s and ’80s, current earring styles are long and slinky. Look for comet-style clusters of dangling silver or gold chains, dripping rhinestones or long drops — with or without stones — that almost brush the shoulders. Very feminine. Very sexy.
Style
Fall Fashion
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Whether traditional or whimsical (or real or faux), fur collars and stoles are the counterpart for the shoulders. Fur trim on gloves and boots completes the look. Serpents and owls
The animal kingdom has invaded the fashion world. Animal prints are showing up in unexpected places, like the lining of a coat or the inside of a bag. Also popular are the overt motifs of serpents and owls. Coiled snake arm bands bring a bit of Gypsy fever to anything and will surely attract attention. Try wearing one on each wrist, or positioning a coil high up on your bicep. If you can find detailed vintage snake bracelets, go for it! Also popular this season are wide-eyed owl pendants — often
Fall Fashion
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Clutches and satchels are the “it” bags for fall. A timeless favorite for evening wear, clutches are breaking into everyday wear by becoming bigger and better than ever before. Absolutely oversized, current clutches are designed to hold as much as the average shoulder bag. But practicality isn’t everything. These bags are rewriting the rules for fun by showing up in every imaginable color and texture (i.e. blue fur, yellow plastic, beige leather). For gals who need a handle — and many of us do — satchel style bags are the way to go. A satchel is defined as a bag with both a short handle and a longer strap that you can wear diagonally across your body. They are reminiscent of school book bags, but current options are anything but bookish. With exotic skins, intense colors and stud details, satchels have both looks and brains. Bow ties
Able to be both ladylike and tough, bow ties are the chameleon in every wardrobe this fall. On blouses, they look best when they are either oversized and floppy or exquisitely tailored as a small tight bow tie. With black and white pairings, bow ties play up the tuxedo look — a popular option for eveningwear this season. On dresses, a long loose bow plays up femininity. The bonus? With so much interest at the neck, you can take it easy on the jewelry, opting for bracelets and earrings instead.
Capes, ponchos and peplum jackets add “flare” to this season’s silhouettes. As outerwear, capes are an elegant choice for fall’s crisp days and cool nights. Ponchos and peplum jackets look splendid layered with jeans, slim trousers or pencil skirts. Look for fun colors and prints, sculptural collars, interesting buttons, toggles and other hardware — to personalize the look. Just remember to balance the volume of these silhouettes with slim bottoms. Here, opposites enhance — rather than compete. Fall foliage
As trees ignite with shades of red, orange and yellow — so too do fashionistas’ wardrobes. Warm autumnal hues sizzle as the season’s hottest colors. Ranging from amplified crimson to understated ochre, a shade exists for every mood. Now is the time to switch up colors and have fun. Get noticed in ruby red jeans, a yellow parka or a tangerine cocktail dress. Of course, if you are a true daredevil, you just might wear the trio of colors together in one outfit. Film noir
As fashion borrows from cinematic high drama, rich velvet and dark lace define a certain feminine glamour. While the textures of these textiles exude sensuality, current interpretations interject a distinct rawness. Think “edgy” instead of sweet, “vampire” instead of Victorian. It is a deliberate regeneration of sorts — making the old new again. Velvet’s beauty is freshened up with the tailoring of jackets and skirts in deep jewellike colors. Lace — often with unfinished edges — appears as applied details or as transparent inserts. Biker chic
Motorcycle chicks are chic again, as this season lusts for leather. Pants, skirts and jackets can be either sophisticated or edgy — but always sleek. A motorcycle jacket in thick textured leather adds instant style — and is surprisingly wearable, with everything from classic jeans to sequin dresses. Leather pants and skirts can be dressed up or down. Play with texture by mixing leather’s smooth hand with supple silk blouses or soft sweaters in angora, mohair or cashmere. If you’re bold enough, leather collars and harness details add sharpness and sophistication. Just be moderate with these accents to avoid looking like a dominatrix fantasy. Sharp focus
Designers must have been inspired by classic photography, as they designed styles based on black and white geometry. Many runway presentations resembled Mondrian’s paintings — minus the carefully placed accents of primary color. The best dresses, tunics and skirts show broad bands and blocks of black and white, crisp intersecting lines, repeating chevrons or right angles. Such patterns exploit contrast for visual energy, so keep accessories spare. This is a strong look, so nothing should distract.
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One chunky bracelet, a stack of bangles, a broad headband or colorful shoes would be the perfect complement. Dot to dot
You won’t have to look far to connect the dots this fall. Polka dots are THE print of the moment. What fun! Scattered on skirts, blouses, dresses and trousers, polka dots are both sweet and sophisticated. In candy colors, they look ultra-feminine. As tiny demure spots, they look absolutely ladylike. In contrasting hues, they become funky and modern. As large orbs, they become the center of attention. If head-to-toe dots have got you feeling measly, try pairing one piece with a neutral accompaniment — or play it safe with a scarf. Opposites attract
Remember how your mother told you to never mix stripes and competing prints? Well… forget those lessons because, this fall, opposites attract. Rather than designing matching separates, designers are deliberately juxtaposing clashing patterns. And when they do, voila! A mismatch is no longer a “misfit” — instead it has become a masterpiece. When considering counterparts, a similarity in scale or palette will preserve balance and visual harmony. This playful trend might have a short life so feel free to supplement your wardrobe with a few workable, affordable pieces that you’ll probably wear for just a few seasons. Buttoned up
A classic blazer or cropped military number is a wardrobe classic. This fall, every well-dressed woman should have at least one go-to jacket. With good tailoring and fabric, it can be worn with almost everything. Current styles are versatile and attractive. Popular now are longer, boxy cuts (borrowed from menswear) and feminine silhouettes showing off cinched waists and peplums. The feminine lines of peplum skirts look fabulous with another fall favorite — the slim pencil skirt. Crayon kicks
Designers are turning up the volume on denim, and jeans are now anything but true blue. This fall, look for jeans in saturated colors spanning the rainbow. Bright primary and secondary colors — red, yellow and blue; and green, orange and purple — are perfect for fun casual weekends. For flair, wear them as the Europeans do — nicely paired with a crisp white blouse, suede flats and a colorful handkerchief tied at the neck. For professional environments or more formal occasions, choose colored trousers in rich textural fabrics like velvet or corduroy. Deeper shades — like forest, wine or ochre — are luxurious. They read more like a box of jewels than a box of crayons. Soft sell
Dress like a dancer and play up texture through gorgeously layered head-to-toe knits. Newer weaves and textile blends give beautiful fluidity to knitwear. Nubby wools and chunky cottons are in. Likewise, so are gossamer silks, fluffy cottons and loose spidery weaves. Reduced monochromatic palettes look elegant, while hot vibrant colors are youthful and electric. Start with a base of a knit dress and tights, a skirt and sweater or a top and leggings. To crown the look, finish it with a long open knit cardigan, a generous wrap or a voluminous cape. For ultimate movement and drape, look for asymmetrical hems, cowl necks and dolman sleeves. This is not your grandmother’s knitwear.
Friday, September 16, 2011
On the cover This Oui outfit of navy blue cashmere blazer with button detail is accented by a striped shirt and animal print scarf for a splash of color and pizzazz. Oui, which makes fabulous knitwear and is always contemporary, up-todate and eye-pleasing, is available exclusively in the United States at En Vogue in Scarsdale.
Facing page
Clockwise from top left Animal prints from Oui are hot this fall. The jacket plus silk blouse, cargo pants and studded belt complete the look. Oui is available exclusively in the United States at En Vogue in Scarsdale. The season’s most sought after sweater fashions come in a variety of patterned, cabled, oversized and distressed knits. Pictured is a two-tone Cable Poncho from 525 America and stylish fur hat. Available at Lester’s in Rye, Manhattan, Brooklyn, Greenvale and Huntington, as well as lesters.com. N anette Lapore’s new knitwear line, Oonagh, is hot this fall: Steel-colored cashmere blend tunic (with a rouched silk neckline and hood) layered over an ultra-feminine silk and lace cami. Finishing off the look is a slim seamed narrow pant and the ubiquitous booties. Available at Outerluxe in Larchmont. Oversized, cozy distressed sweater with bright stars by Wildfox. Available at Lester’s in Rye, Manhattan, Brooklyn, Greenvale and Huntington, as well as lesters.com. Kal Rieman’s Herringbone wrap coat with a French cuff and bengal stripe shirt. Available at Outerluxe in Larchmont. J Brand’s mid-rise skinny leg jeans in Aubergine are fitted from hip to ankle and with a slightly higher rise, the mid-rise skinny leg is your go-to classic. Wear them with heels or flats. The super-tight fit slips right into boots with no folding or rolling. Comes in other styles. J Brand is available at Beginnings in Scarsdale. The two-button stretch cord blazer in ginger from 7 For All Mankind. Also comes in as black, charcoal, deep plum and deep emerald. 7 is available at Industry in Dobbs Ferry. If you are (or aren’t) allergic to wool, this Oui blouse is for you, and it’s perfectly matched to wear with your best pair of jeans. Oui is available exclusively in the United States at En Vogue in Scarsdale. Danish design company Braez gets in style with a tissue weight wool jersey cowl neck tunic. Available at Outerluxe in Larchmont. The SILVIA boot is from Coye Nokes, who studied her craft in London. This design is a supple calfskin black lace-up bootie (with an easy on/off zipper). The lace-up bootie is a huge trend for AW 2011 as it pairs seamlessly with everything from jeans to evening dresses. Available at Outerluxe in Larchmont. Fiery red, sexy, yet elegant silk blouse from Chloe Rose. Great feminine styling with dolman sleeve, bare shoulder and smocking to flatter the waistline. Available at Lester’s in Rye, Manhattan, Brooklyn, Greenvale and Huntington, and at www.lesters.com. The Kal Rieman savile row style blue glenplaid blazer is a favorite, a beautifully tailored menswear-inspired piece with a spike of carmine red just under the collar of the jacket. It works back to the plethora of blouses that are making a comeback (especially those tied at the neck) and a multitude of bottoms (jeans, trousers, leggings — they’re all in the mix this year). Available at Outerluxe in Larchmont.
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Friday, September 16, 2011
Fall Fashion
ThE record-review Page 7A
Courtesy of En Vogue
Courtesy of outerluxe
Courtesy of Lester’s
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Courtesy of J Brand.
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Fall Fashion
Friday, September 16, 2011
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