Record-Review Fall Fashion

Fall Fashion A Special Section of

The Record-Review 9.14.2012

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Boardroom Fashion: A strong look for a strong presence

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Fashion Trends: Fall ingnites with drama and excess

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Style: Add flair with scarves and more

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Accessories guide: Steal the spotlight with over-the-top bangles, bags, and jewelry

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Choices: Colors, patterns take the blues out of choosing jeans

Photo COURTESY OF EILEEN FISHER

Inside

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Fall Fashion

Friday, September 14, 2012

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Friday, September 14, 2012

Fall Fashion

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Boardroom FAshion

A strong look for a strong presence

Photo COURTESY OF EILEEN FISHER

Local designer Eileen Fisher meets every woman’s wardrobe needs with simplicity. Available at The Westchester in White Plains.

you can add some glitz, if you wish.”

As most women know, shoes are fashion statements of their own. But comfort is key, Schneider said, adding, “You’re going to be in shoes that you’ll wear all day and, unfortunately, fashions today are pretty crazy.

The boardrooms are not ready for these very extreme platform shoes. A nice, discrete pump with a mid-height heel is what I would buy, and I’d spend more money for something well made and comfortable. Of course, for the evening you can go crazy and let loose.”

Undergarments, including pantyhose, complete the professional look, Schneider said. Contrary to what many women think, undergarments do not have to be uncomfortable. “Fortunately for us, now it’s the era of Spanx,” she said. “We can really take off a couple of pounds just by putting them on. You get a smooth line — no panty lines or bra lines in pants or dresses. It’s important to have a properly fitted bra, so spend more money or even go to a place that fits you for your bra. It’s a one-time deal, but definitely worthwhile.”

With headquarters in Irvington and a retail store in White Plains, Eileen Fisher also has a “green” store on Central Avenue that offers “gently used” clothing. Fisher’s creations are also available in Westchester at Bloomingdales, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Lord & Taylor.

Eileen Fisher public relations manager Kerri Devaney said a woman’s look “could depend on the industry. Some industries still prefer suits and heels, while others are open to women wearing separates. A knit jacket with a woven skirt and printed shirt

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ven as more and more women take seats in the boardrooms of corporations and highpowered nonprofits, the age-old and inevitable question remains: What should I wear?

En Vogue’s Rita Schneider has been consulting Westchester women on their wardrobes since 1986 and recently offered advice on the topic. “To look professional, you definitely need a good jacket, and with that good jacket, By a good pair of pants or a MAry nice skirt,” she said. “It has to be something not Legrand too dressy, not too embellished, with high-quality buttons, a good cut and good fabric.”

Black remains the most popular color, she said, but there are other options as well, including what Schneider calls “power red,” a color that works not only in the corporate world but “definitely in the fundraising world.” Jewel tones can be used interchangeably with more standard colors.

One benefit of using basic black is that you “can mix and match it,” Schneider said, meaning that many of the suits she sells come in different colors. If a woman purchased two — one in black and one in red, let’s say — the red jacket would be perfectly interchangeable with a black skirt or pair of pants.

Just because a woman wears suits doesn’t mean she must look like a man. “Femininity now overweighs the old kind of constructed, three-button suit jacket,” Schneider said. “That’s kind of passé. The updated look is more feminine. Suit jackets are shorter, more playful, but all in all, a suit still should be well cut and well tailored. To add femininity you can have a flounced or surplice blouse.”

What advice would Schneider, whose Scarsdale shop is known for its extensive collection of high-fashion clothing, give to a woman who might be unsure about using a certain outfit for work? In a nutshell, if in doubt, don’t wear it: “I think it’s inappropriate for a business skirt to be a mini.

No matter one’s age, a skirt that’s to the knee or a little bit above the knee is best.

For example, attorneys who go in front of a jury or judge don’t want to come into the courtroom with a miniskirt.”

Along those same lines, moderation is key when it comes to picking out a blouse to wear with a business suit or separates. If you’re wondering whether a blouse is cut too low, it probably is. “Again, it’s a happy medium between being too closed up or too naked,” Schneider said.

A businesswoman’s day doesn’t necessarily end at 5 p.m., but an after-hours professional meeting or dinner could be more casual than what’s worn in the office. “For that, if the black suit is a little too serious and too confining, I suggest she wear a simple black sheath with a nice jacket that can take her from the boardroom to an evening out,” Schneider said. “Or she could replace the jacket with a shawl and jewelry that can dress it up.”

Accessories are important additions to any look, but keep them classic and understated, Schneider advised. “Simple gold chains, a discrete little necklace or bracelet are best,” she said. “Then for the evening

are creative and modern ways to create your own version of the traditional suit.”

Women who are in the office want to be comfortable, Devaney said: “Having a fabric that stretches is helpful. If a woman is sitting in a meeting for a long time and her clothes are constricting, she won’t focus on the topic of the meeting.”

The less a woman is thinking about what she’s wearing because she’s comfortable, “She’s more likely to contribute and engage in the meeting,” Devaney said. “Again, depending on the industry, print and color are acceptable or not. If you are in the arts or fashion, color and prints are acceptable.

However, in banking or law, this might translate into a subtle tweed.”

Devaney agreed that women no longer have to dress like men and that they can “dress more individually, and the fall 2012 collections take this to heart,” she said.

“Soft tailoring and dressings and skirts with feminine touches — but not girly — are appropriate. It might be a subtle peplum at the waist or slight asymmetry on a skirt hem or on a neckline.”

There is confidence this season in feminine styles, she said, “with sheath or shift dresses perfect for the office. These dress styles are perfect to layer a tailored jacket or chic cardigan over.” And pantsuits, Devaney noted, “are having a big moment this fall in a new way. Many are cropped and cuffed, and the fabric is patterned.”

Changing shoes at the end of the day is one way to make a boardroom-appropriate outfit more casual. “Some workplaces still (gasp!) require dress codes,” Devaney said.

“If heels are one of them, then keep a pair

of sandals or flats under your desk. Brogues and oxfords have become fashion mainstays over the last few seasons.”

Again, shoes “have to be comfortable,” Devaney emphasized. “It’s the same lens we use for our clothing. Does wearing a pair of shoes make you feel really good? Can you really move in them? There is no point in having shoes sit in women’s closets.”

Keep those extra shoes, and additional accessories and jewelry, in a neat, dust-free box under the desk, Devaney counseled.

“Leave the briefcase behind and switch to a lighter bag,” she said. “There is no reason to bring a gym bag to post-work cocktails.

If you work in a conservative office, slip off your jacket to show a shiny silk charmeuse shell and layer on necklaces or enamel bracelets.”

Malvina Guretsky, owner of MAG Tricotes in Scarsdale, knows the boardroom firsthand. “One of the main lessons learned during my 17-year career on Wall Street is to avoid blending in at all costs,” she said.

“Consider every meeting as an opportunity to be noticed and remembered. That is not the same as ‘stand out from the crowd,’ as that expression carries negative connotations when referring to women’s clothing in the boardroom. I like to think of it as making a positive statement — that is more in line with letting your individuality shine through — and the clothes you wear can help tremendously in that regard.”

Guretsky touted the advantages of layering fabrics and textures, saying, “It adds another dimension to the outfit. I love a cotton dress with a knit cardigan; a smart pair of gray, black or navy slacks with a lace blouse; a knit sheath dress with a smart jacket or blazer; or a knit skirt with a classic button-down shirt.”

Her advice to businesswomen is to avoid “boring” black and white. Also avoid neon colors. “I have yet to meet a woman outside the runway who looks good in those,” she said. “And avoid following trends for the sake of following the trends. Do know the color hue that suits you; do add a pop of color to every single outfit; do know today’s color trends, and pick one or two that you can comfortably carry.”

This year’s color trends, according to Guretsky, are navy, green, teal and burgundy red. “Pick the shade of each that works for you and add just a pop of color — a navy skirt with a white or cream jacket, gray slacks with a green sweater, or camel trousers with a teal blouse,” she said.

Most of all, she continued, “Stay true to yourself; know where your comfort zone is. If you do, you’ll find yourself gracefully and easily carrying yourself inside the boardroom of any size.”

One important bit of advice from Guretsky cannot be underestimated: “The reality is, a lot of modern boardrooms are dominated by men. Those men undoubtedly have strong and loving females by their side — their wives, their sisters, their mothers, their daughters. Your outfit should resonate with that. I have always considered it a great compliment when a male colleague would ask me about an item I wore, saying he would see his wife or sister wear it.

An item from your wardrobe could easily become a conversation starter — with men and women alike — and starting a friendly conversation is definitely one of your goals inside that boardroom.”

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Drama and Excess Fall Fashion

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Friday, September 14, 2012

Fall fashion ignites with

T

From left to right:

his year’s fall fashions are all about dramatic luxury, exciting structure and creative revival.

Inspired by theatrical characters and historical references, collections flirt with unexpected muses — including Rooney Mara’s sleek and edgy screen character Lisbeth Salander from “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo,” Renaissance and Baroque princesses and 1980s working girls. While these inspirations By are disparate, designers have apTRACI proached them DUTTON with a similar modern sensibilLUDWIG ity. Their mantra is to extrapolate, mix and redefine with fresh creativity, leaving plenty of room for originality.

The remaining component is yours — to make the season’s top trends your own. You go, girl!

Rebecca Taylor gives billowing silk palazzo pants a fresh twist by pairing with an urban-sophisticated leather-trimmed tweed jacket for a completely new take on jet-setting bohemia. Available at Toney Toni and the Gang in Katonah.

Clara Sunwoo shimmer print zip jacket with sharp collar and pin tuck princess seam details in a striking abstract print in bold red, cobalt blue, black and teal colors. Offered exclusively at Enchantments in Katonah, specializing in contemporary fashion — affordable luxury for today’s woman.

Great Stuff in Scarsdale, Chappaqua, Rye, Greenwich and Westport, carries this autumn cashmere hi low cabled poncho, available in heatherd oatmeal.

From biker to ballroom

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The leather jacket is absolutely “it” for fall. To make a statement, invest in a stunner that will stand the test of time.

Yes, leather trims, panels and details are showing up in unexpected places to give clothing a depth of strength and a dark edge. However, the iconic leather jacket trumps them all. Surprisingly versatile, a gorgeous leather jacket will bring definition to a variety of occasions. It is equally chic with worn boyfriend jeans and slinky party dresses. Rich inky black is back with a vengeance, and fitted biker styles — embellished with zippers, grommets, studs, decorative stitching or fringe — reign superior. However, colorful dyed jackets and worn-in vintage numbers are definitely worth a second look.

Expanding fall’s fascination with leather are dresses that offer a sexy take on the little black dress. Be prepared for bodyconscious silhouettes and edgy confidence. Geometric metallic jewelry or broad collar chokers complete the look.

For a subtler interpretation of the theme, look for

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smooth leather skirts or leather details on kilts, pants, sweaters and tops. Even a panel or patch will add edgy elegance to wardrobe basics.

Lovely in lace

In contrast to leather’s toughness, a blooming crop of short lace dresses exudes sweet femininity. Elevated from grandma’s closet, these lace and crochet fantasies take center stage with bold colors, strong silhouettes and exaggerated patterns. Short A-line dresses, bell-sleeved tunics and structured sheaths capture a stunning Boho attitude.

Made modest by opaque slips — either tone-on-tone or with colorful contrast — these bright lace frocks are not only flirtatiously stylish. Their tease of the uncovered, yet covered, look has a practical side. These are perfect transitional dresses for harvest fêtes during a season of schizophrenically uncertain temperatures.

Dripping in jewels

Move over Crayola — your carton of 64 has been replaced by another box altogether, this one lined with velvet and filled with gemstones. Fall’s palette has been inspired by the Queen’s jewels. Blues, greens, purples and reds comingle in the rich clear tones of turquoise, lapis lazuli, emerald, amethyst and ruby. Especially juxtaposed against fall’s preference for black basics and leather, gorgeous dresses, jackets and blouses shine with the energy of jewel-tone hues.

Silky fabrics and shimmery surfaces add luminosity — like polished gems — and a touch of the exotic. Adorned in head-to-toe color, you’ll turn heads. Or rely on deliberate accents to wink at admirers. This might just be the year of the peacock (… never mind that the fowl is male).

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Friday, September 14, 2012

Fall Fashion

furniture. Modern silhouettes and contemporary attitudes, such as burnout velvet or raw-edged lace, will keep the look fresh and current. No powdered wigs or period costumes here.

Clockwise from top: Giambista Valli at Mary Jane Denzer in White Plains: the look of today’s fashions is very minimal and accents youth with simple lines, luxury fabric and couture detail.

Sergeant Major

The military look is as perennial as fall itself. But this season, it has graduated from boot camp and is commanding the barracks. Gone are previous year’s sloppy canvas fatigues, drab camouflage prints and muddy army greens. Now, full attention is on dressy military jackets in elegant navy blue and gray. The strength of the look is in the restraint of the details. Too many addons — like patches and epaulettes — are contrived and passé. Instead, nail this look like a general. With an impeccably tailored jacket or peacoat, straight rows of shiny brass buttons, a defined waist and tall black boots, everyone will fall into attention. Yes, ma’am!

The North Face’s women’s avenue parka in grammercy gray will combat falling temperatures from fall into winter. Available at Kelloggs & Lawrence in Katonah.

Rani Arabella is available exclusively in Rye at Lola. This piece is made in luxurious Loro Pianna cashmere.

Dress by Italian designer Giambista Valli, a collection that is considered young, modern and very couture. Available at Mary Jane Denzer in White Plains.

Canadian designer Frank Lyman’s collection is easy, elegant and chic, going from daytime into evening. Available at En Vogue in Scarsdale.

Size matters

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Continued from previous page

Precious metals

The trumpet blows

Fashion has struck it rich! Designers have mined for silver and gold and brought back an abundance of shimmer, sparkle and glitz.

Metallic brocade, shiny lamé, sequin skirts, paillette embellishment and woven metallic appliqués and trims capture the look with perfection. A favorite for eveningwear, such luxe materials and treatments are now bringing the Midas touch to daywear. For maximum wearability, look for stretchable, washable fabrics and detachable details. Not ready to completely gild the lily? An ontrend accessory, like a burnished gold- or silver-tone belt or a metallic mesh scarf, will enable precious fun without serious commitment or investment.

Look around. Does the world suddenly feel triangular? Take heart — you are just recognizing the dominant shape of the season. Fall collections are a symphony of trumpet- and bell-shaped silhouettes — ranging from subtle A-line dresses to exaggerated peplum jackets and skirts and everything in between. Depending on various interpretations, the look takes form in ladylike suits, Mod jumpers and edgy futuristic fantasies.

Don’t shy away from the exaggerated form of the peplum jacket. It’s one of the season’s “must haves.” The key to wearing it well is to play up the silhouette’s hourglass illusion by accentuating volume at the hips with a small cinched waist. Pair a peplum jacket with slim trousers or a pencil skirt; keep the jacket closed; add a sharp belt for punctuated definition.

History lesson

COURTESY OF MARY JANE DENZER

We were waiting for it. A 1980s revival was bound to happen.

Nevertheless, audiences held their breath as designers turned out awkward parades of models in gigantic, boxy silhouettes.

As super-sized proportions over whelmed willowy physiques, the look teetered toward the outlandish.

However, one exception beautifully carried the extra volume and stood out with style — outwear.

With COURTESY OF KELLOGGS & LAWRENCE so many options, plan on investing in a creative fall coat with oversized attitude.

This is the year to relish in bravado. Dramatically proportioned coats, rain jackets and capes steal the show with sculptural collars, overstated lapels, obvious pockets, sharp lines and artful compositions. Saturated colors, double-breasted rows of buttons and unexpected textiles, including slick laminates reminiscent of wet seal hide, indulge the eye even more. And the best part? Because outerwear reveals itself in small doses, this is all surprisingly wearable — read “fun and doable in moderation.”

For ultimate extravagance, designers are embracing the source of rich abundance.

Both the Renaissance and Baroque eras epitomized opulence, and their rebirths (in designers’ studios) have become the inspiration for contemporary collections. History returns in the form of ornate lace at collars and cuffs, woven brocade prints, tapestrylike embroidery, velvet galore and gold and silver tone trim that looks very much like... get ready for it… ormolu details on period

Office chic

Skirts and dresses beware. This is the moment of the pantsuit. Embracing a wealth of styles, silhouettes and moods, this season offers something for everyone. Which one will suit your voice? Colorful solids and head-totoe prints demand attention. Peplum jackets or cropped-length trousers look expressively current. Boxy karate-style suits take “casual”

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up a notch. Menswear-inspired ensembles play with gender notions and exude confident sexuality. Traditional interpretations embody timeless elegance and are a wonderful backdrop for standout scarves and statement necklaces. When accessorizing, keep pant length in mind, and don’t forget your feet. The new ankle-length “cropped pant” has been designed for the season’s elaborately decorated and colorful shoes. Plan your total look accordingly; otherwise the higher hem could appear awkward.

College bound

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As co-eds return to the books this September, fashion’s eye takes hold of their campus wardrobes — or at least an idealized version of them. The preppy collegiate look is experiencing a rah-rah revival. Get into the spirit with plaid miniskirts, tweed trousers, crisp button-down shirts, cashmere sweaters and basic blazers. Cheerleader-look dresses with short kicky skirts are also making a comeback. School colors and textbooks optional.

Geometry lesson

Prints have gone graphic, with a preference for all-over geometry. Traditional florals are trending out, while the bare garden trellis is totally in. Repeating diamond patterns, layers of lozenge shapes and flat latticework are high on the design list this year.

Colors tend to be retrained and tempered by dominant black linear designs. Manifest the look through head-to-toe uniformity (á la the printed pantsuit) or a combination of competing patterns. Find harmony in this cacophony by layering blouses, pants, skirts, scarves, jackets and textured legwear. It’s a divine feast for the eye — at the tipping point of fabulous. Goodbye, demure; hello, diva!

Red, yellow and blue jeans

How many pairs of favorite jeans are in your closet? Denim will never fade from fashion because of its devoted following, but it sometimes needs a refresher. This season’s newness comes from color. Richly saturated jeans, cords and denim jackets bring an element of fun to casual weekend dressing.

Look for jeans and soft cords in basic primary and secondary shades — red, yellow, (dyed) blue, green, orange and purple — in straight leg and skinny cuts. For traditionalists, a pair of denim boyfriend jeans (a straight leg style, with a looser, boxier waist) is the season’s go-to favorite. Wear them with a wide belt and cuffed at the ankle for effortless style.

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Animal magnetism

Fashion has found its voice in the growl, roar and purr. Like leather, fur is making a dominant statement this fall. Rather than tiptoeing around in animal prints, designers have gone straight to the source itself. Using both real and faux varieties, they have populated their collections with fox, rabbit, Mongolian goat, chinchilla, beaver and mink. Vests of long-haired hides or textural fur conjure exotic personas that suggest the complex luxury of Bohemian rhapsody or the wild capability of an ancient huntress.

Fur trimmed jackets, sweaters, dresses, coats, wraps and hats capture a similar magnetism with a bit less abandon — and may be easier on the wallet.

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Soft embrace

Thank goodness for cooler days. Fall is resplendent with soft, cozy knitwear that is both beautiful and versatile. Pamper yourself with luxurious knit dresses, slouchy sweaters that drip off one shoulder, sweet cardigans and warm, fluffy wraps. Easily dressed up or down, knitwear adapts to many occasions and moods. Fur accents add opulence; jeweled brooches show ladylike elegance; feather trim interjects whimsy; and leather cuffs make for a game-changing surprise. Because of knitwear’s delicate nature, buy natural fibers in the best quality you can afford. These pieces will wear well for many seasons, while keeping shape and integrity. If fashion had a version of comfort food, this would be it.

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What adds flair to an outfit? Scarves and more

C

ruising the fashion supplements and big magazine glossies crowding the supermarket checkout aisle, you may wonder what to do to spruce up your fall wardrobe without spending a fortune. For true fashionistas who buy a half dozen new pieces every season, according to style experts, the most important additions every woman must have this fall include a decorated jacket, a terrific bag, and a collection of boots and scarves. Luxury materials including velvet, leather, even fur, are statement-making. Just know that whatever your style, By this is not the season to be Eve a shrinking violet. Go for the bold adornment.

Marx Lori Friedman of Great Stuff in Scarsdale and Chappaqua is a big fan of the scarf. “Scarves are the quickest way to add flair to any outfit,” Friedman declared. “They’re terrific.”

For the fall, Great Stuff is offering its clientele big, beautiful scarves from Europe, especially from Italy. “You can’t beat the Italian designers and manufacturers for the softest fabrics,” Friedman said.

At a different price point, she also has an array of American-made scarves, and especially loves the newest ones from the designer Chan Luu, a name many women already are familiar with because of her signature wrapped beaded bracelets. Branching out from bracelets to scarves, Chan Luu line’s most coveted scarf lines for the fall are made of a combination of cashmere and silk, some fringed, some paisley. Scuba blue, cocoa, fuschia, nude and moss are among Chan Luu’s most popular color choices.

Friedman appreciates both the glamour

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and the practicality of the scarf. “I love watching women in restaurants,” she said. “I like to see what they do with their scarves.

I’ve noticed that while they may check their coat, never the scarf. They put their scarf on the back of their chair, which makes a unique color statement. And if they’re chilled because the room is cold, the scarf is right there to drape around their shoulders.”

Friedman is also recommending vests as a wardrobe enhancer. “Vests are very big right now, especially in leather,” she said. For her stores, she recently brought in some nice tiny ones that embellish, but not smother, any

outfit.

Not feelin’ it for the vest? Go instead with a beautiful hand-tooled leather belt. Friedman said that the new high-waist leather belts go great with the new high-waist trousers to extend the exaggerated hourglass silhouette. She said harness belts are also going to be popular, bringing to mind that slight bondage touch, a trend following hot on the heels of the popular novel “50 Shades of Grey.”

Glamour magazine declared fall 2012 to be the season where, “The horse is the new cat.” Stella McCartney started the trend, and it’s picked up speed thereafter. Fashion forward women will also be wearing anything in the shade of burgundy, as well as contrast collars, head-to-toe floral patterns, and anything with a horse print.

At Outerluxe in Larchmont, proprietor Helen Barlow is another retailer/stylist who said she invested heavily in scarves this season. “Scarves are a great way to add flair to any outfit at an approachable price point,” Barlow advised. “You can take a scarf and it works on so many different outfits. It makes all your last season’s things have more oomph.” She said some of the new lines of scarves she is carrying are so gorgeous “they can be hung on a wall, they look like art.”

Barlow said these scarves are made of such luxurious materials, they also feel wonderful against the skin. She also remarked on the shape. “They’re oblong, which is a shape I normally stay away from, but it gives them a different feel,” she said. “The corners come off on a different spot.”

Outerluxe will happily give instruction and lessons on scarf arrangement, as tying on continued on page 6A

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Fall Fashion

Page 6a The record-review

Friday, SePTember 14, 2012

ACCESSORIES GUIDE

adding Flair continUeD fRoM pAGe 5A

Steal the spotlight with over-the-top accessories

F

ollowing the season’s taste for opulence and individuality are an abundance of accessories that transcend mere adornment. Making statements themselves are gorgeously over-the-top shoes, bags and jewelry. this year’s trends follow the runway with an interest in color, metal, leather, glitz and fur.

While accessories may be intended for the sidelines, the drama is in the details — and these accessories just might steal the show.

animal farm

fall’s favorite obsessions have left their mark on even the smallest details. leather patches and trim bring a confident sophistication to clothing, as do organic leather armbands, bracelets and belts. Added gemstones and precious metals dress up these pieces, while natural materials like bone, shell and horn lend an earthy vibe. like leather, fur condenses into tassels, straps, accents and trim. find rich luxury in beaver collars on coats and jackets, evening bags trimmed with dyed mink, fox fur tassels on voluminous capes, Mongolian goat hair boot cuffs, and puffs of angora dangling from hair bands. only you will know if it’s real or faux.

ruby red slippers

Your toes are in for a treat. new fall shoes are so elaborately decorated; they have become art and By jewelry for your feet. every fantasy — from traCi princess to vamp to dUtton darling Dorothy — can be realized with embellUdwig lished, crystal-encrusted, stud-enhanced, glittered, buckled, tasseled, metallic, strappy shoes. especially as cropped pant lengths rise to the ankle, feet cannot be left as afterthought. color-blocked platforms and wedges perfectly complement bright pantsuits and colorful jeans. Ballet flats and heels are equally popular — especially in patchwork compositions of various hides, leathers and colors. combinations of blue, black and brown are this season’s neutrals, as are new metallic finishes in silver, gold and bronze. for added spice, dyed suede in a variety of saturated hues is making a strong comeback. to carry such visual interest, the season offers a breadth of dominant shoe silhouettes. favorites include elongated pumps with pointy toes and soaring spike heels, buckled-up Mary Janes atop square stacked heels, flexible ballet flats in a rainbow of colors, open heel lace-ups in soft, supple leathers and anything with a wraparound ankle strap. ornamentation permeates contemporary shoe design. look for applied studs, metal discs, shiny and glittery finishes, cutout piecework and unexpected materials like pony hair, silver mesh, embroidered inserts, canvas and acrylic.

luscious legwear

PHOTOS COURTESY OF LOLA

Big, big belts

Above, the holly crocodile clutch by Petronella is available in fall’s fashion colors. At Lola in Rye.

Dramatic belts direct attention to cinched waists. look for thick leather belts, oversized buckles and bows, and wrapped kimono-style obis. the impeccable fit of a broad stretchy band — sometimes stitched with sequins or reflective beads — is a sleek addition to jackets, knitwear and blousy dresses. elaborate buckles add pizzazz. Brown and black leather remains a popular base for flat, braided or woven belts, many adorned with metal snaps, studs and grommets.

Jewelry by Zeffira: Almost all bangles, necklaces and earrings are available in blonde, brown, grey, black with veins and black matte. They are sure to liven up any outfit. Available at Lola in Rye.

razzle-dazzle

To the knee

tall boots have usurped last year’s ubiquitous bootie, and this rising star is anything but plain. classic and elegant, knee-high riding boots maintain a ladylike popularity; however, over-the-knee varieties are really hot. their mantra is “more is more,” as supple leather reaps the benefits of metal hardware, studs, tassels and fringe. Killer fall boots complete on-trend looks by making fall skirts and skinny jeans even greater. cowboy boots, too, remain fashionable contenders on the best-dressed list. this year, their Western style has been taken to a new level. the best examples show off an urban edge through fashionable color, rich embroidery, grommets, studs and a mix of materials. now, that’s the way to ride, Kemo Sabe. statement jewelry

the bejeweled have spoken: daintiness and subtlety are out. Size, heft and oomph are in. every well-dressed damsel seems to have a statement necklace around her neck these days — each one loud and unique enough to scream, “look at me.”

Give fashion a kick with daring stockings, nubby legwarmers and fun tights.

Black fishnets have become more mainstream than ever before. they remain edgy with black leather and biker jackets.

But fishnets are also showing up, with ironic cheekiness, below tweed skirts and chevron dresses. for a more traditional look, textured or patterned tights complement fall’s love of geometric prints. overload these patterns, head to toe, for dynamic energy.

faux gemstones in clear, vibrant colors and heavy settings are a seasonal favorite, as are opaque, milky stones with a mysterious aura. Raise your neck and arch your spine; this look is hot and heavy. disco diva

Gold- and silver-tone collars, lariats, long looped chains and other confections from the disco era shine. But they bring more architecture than bling. All about sexy shape and slinky movement, shoulder-skimming earrings and stacks of bangles epitomize the 1970s look. Designs include geometric hinged earrings, long chain tassels, animal-motif pendants, feather charms, enameled discs and shield rings. contemporary reinventions abound; or you can mine originals from the back of your closet or a funky vintage shop.

Pin up girl

Retro brooches are the key to modern

luxury. Go big and bold with clusters of paste gems, faux pearls, chunky resin and enamel beads. floral designs, geometric compositions and sunburst (and starburst) patterns are outrageously popular for bringing bling to overcoats, jackets, sweaters, belts and hats.

Knitting needles

As fashion turns up its volume, there comes a time to put some of it under wrap.

Scarves, capes, ponchos, stoles and wraps are remarkably adaptable. they mingle in the categories of both outerwear and daywear, bringing to each a distinct layer of elegant nonchalance. fluffy scarves and stoles — with or without fur accents — add appealing texture and soft comfort.

Dramatic capes and wraps are refined and practical for chilly fall evenings. ponchos pair well with jeans and boots for everyday dressing, especially as designers have responded to needs by adding openings

for arms. Knit legwarmers carry the trend south, providing calves and ankles with cozy texture and comfort. silk road

long fluid scarves and printed silk squares celebrate color and pattern. Versatile and adaptable, scarves have the power to easily change up an outfit’s mood.

Whether textural or sleek, colorful or monochromatic, elongated scarves take dressing to its most divine. they can be coiled around the neck, draped long and loose over lapels or left to dangle languidly over one shoulder. likewise, silk squares are a muse for creativity. experiment with knots, folds and ties. Break tradition and wear these scarves as belts, headbands and hair wraps. As elegant accouterments to pantsuits and jackets or as feminizing additions to edgy motorcycle jackets and boxy boyfriend jeans, scarves are the perfect fall accessory.

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Metallic finishes and hardware lend a glow to handbags, shoes and belts. Gold and silver tones, both shiny and burnished, fit many fashions and may be worn with mixed abandon. there are no more rules — gold and silver go with everything, even each other. for extra glitz, clusters of small crystals and all-over glitter sparkle on shoes, evening bags and headbands. Silver and gold are big, but so are electric blue and hot pink. carry all

When oversized coats hit the runways, handbags in epic proportions followed. this year, bags are big, bigger and biggest. Soft, slouchy sacks have matured into architectural masterpieces defined by structure and form. Surfaces benefit from striking hardware and the rhythmic punctuation of metal accents. cases purposed for ipads or other electronic tablets can be handle carried or worn with a shoulder strap. Brightly colored leathers and unusual hides add cheerful fun to traditional shapes. And — get this, ladies — clutches are finally ample enough to hold more than an iD, a folded $50 bill and a tube of lipstick.

a scarf can be intimidating. “the outerluxe method is an under/over loop,” Barlow said. A reformed turtleneck wearer who has switched to scarves to keep her neck warm, she said, “Summer or winter you’ll always find a scarf in my bag.”

Another flair enhancer Barlow recommends is switching around your usual neutral palette to a bold color or a print.

“A lot of our customers are timid about prints in a dress, but will wear a printed scarf to bring everything together,” she said. “coral is a beautiful color because it reflects that tone against the face, but some women feel coral is too bold a statement in a dress or pants.” outerluxe is also offering customers a very special belt collection. “We carry a line that actually produces for Gucci and Balenciaga, and they produce their own line that is more casual,” Barlow said. She also tends to this company’s men’s belts, but in women’s sizes: “they have such a cool handmade vibe without all the bling that we’ve grown a bit bored with.” She said one of the features of these belts is that the maker soaks the leather and then twists it before drying, which gives the final result an undulating effect. Another belt looks like bark, and there is a line of striped belts that becomes a tonal piece and a more vocal accessory than basic brown or black. “the equestrian tailored look never goes out of style either,” Barlow said. “the riding boot is making a return and many more trousers that emulate that equestrian look.”

Speaking of trousers, Barlow is also recommending understated tuxedo trousers worn with a bootie. “i like to wear these pants with a slouchy sweater or an oversized blouse, depending on how fitted those pants are,” she said. “pants that are fitted on the bottom need something flowy on top, while loose pants need a top that is more fitted.” She especially likes a bootie she’s carrying from italy that features a chunky heel: “it’s a 2 ½ or 2 ¾ inch heel. it’s very comfortable. the riding boots i love most that we’ve brought in have a quarter inch heel with tooled leather. the silhouette is beautiful as is the detail.”

Melanie Shepard at enchantments in Katonah is recommending cardigans to add flair to any outfit. A stunning cropped curio cardigan with a hook and eye closure, Dolman sleeves and a standup collar will spruce up any denim you already own, or black pants. enchantments has several enchanting choices of cardigans in many colors, weaves and textures. “Most of my customers already have a lot of things in black, brown and gray,” Shepard said. “these new cardigans make everything look fresh.”

Most of the cardigans are open, meaning they have no closure, which gives them a flowing look. “colors and prints — that’s strong,” according to Shepard.

She’s still carrying animal prints, a carryover from last autumn, as well as other patterns, and fur, but faux fur, because of the price point. “Also popular this fall will be asymmetrical hems and split leg trousers which show off some leg, or boot,” she said.

While she agreed that everyone is talking about burgundy, Shepard said her customers still love earth tones. “they’re flattering and easy to wear, and you can dress them up or dress them down,” she said. She is carrying many items from her favorite lines, tempo paris, curio and chalet. “the one thing i’m not featuring is wool, because everyone complains it’s too itchy,” she said.

Friday, September 14, 2012

Fall Fashion

ThE record-review Page 7A

Colors, patterns take the blues out of choosing jeans

T

his is the season that fashion has finally taken the “blue” out of “blue jeans.”

Sure, those good old blues — washed, faded and frayed — still have their place in everybody’s wardrobe for really casual days. But there’s so much more happening in jeans than basic blue this fall.

bottom. To be avoided this season are jeans that flare out from the knee, breaking up the look of a long, lean leg.

“Denim is no longer going in the direction that you can only wear skinny or boot-cut,” said Land. “It’s going to body type, so nobody’s left out.” Even in the non“designer” jeans market, jeans are being merchandised by body type. Talbots, Levi’s, Gap, Old Navy, Lands End and other mass market brands are selling jeans by fit, recognizing that women comes in all shapes as well as sizes. Yes, even size 6 customers can have curves.

Colored denim bigger than ever

Last spring’s brightly colored jeans were a big hit with some segments of the market, the very young and the very skinny. This fall’s By colored jeans are much more wearable.

Jackie “The new fall colored Lupo denims, in beautiful autumn colors — burnt oranges, mustard yellows, browns and taupes — are making them more sophisticated for adults to wear,” said Lori Land, co-owner of Churchills of Mount Kisco.

Joanne Rovelli, store manager of Beginnings in Scarsdale, endorses colors that are deep and rich. “There’s lots of plum, brown and bronze,” she noted.

Other fall tones to watch are deep wine colors, available from many manufacturers; deep berry colors, such as blackberry and blueberry; brick red; dark olive; and, as always, black.

Coated denim: fall’s great pretender

From a few feet away, they look amazingly like leather, crocodile, lizard or even metal. But the fabrics are actually cotton blends similar to what’s used in ordinary jeans, but coated for interesting texture.

The trend started last year with coatings that appeared waxed. Now the coatings are more sophisticated and look much more like the materials they’re designed to mimic. The leather looks in black or traditional leather colors such as deep luggage brown are great places to jump into this trend.

“Skinny J Brand coated jeans are some of the best,” Rovelli said. Aiko’s legging jeans offer leather and metallic finishes. The best metallic are toned down and burnished rather than bright gold or silver. Look for colors that mimic antiqued gold, titanium or pewter.

Other great coated jeans come from Adriano Goldschmied. Check out the jeans “leggings” in blackberry or cobalt “leatherette,” and Rich and Skinny’s “foil” finishes in black or dark aluminum.

Blue denim and corduroy continue

Mid-range and dark washed and distressed blue denim show up in all the collections. But the newest denim to watch is the oldest kind: “raw” denim, in its dark, untreated form. It’s unwashed, untreated, undistressed. They look stiff, but the fabrics are softer and more wearable than the original raw denim of the ’60s. Corduroy with plenty of built-in stretch shows up in every manufacturer’s collection this season.

Soft, brushed finishes that are somewhere between no-wale corduroy and velveteen are important.

Prints bigger than ever

Gorgeous patterns abound: lace, brocade, animal prints (both the furry kind — leopard and its relatives — and the slithery kind — lizard, python, snake, gator) continue.

Abstract prints, zebra and tie-dyes appear at Current/Elliott. Last season’s garden florals continue for fall, but printed with dark backgrounds.

Boots are still everywhere with jeans.

Knee-high boots with the jeans tucked into boot tops continue, but shorter boot lengths are newer: motorcycle (with skinny jeans tucked in) and ankle bootie (some have wider tops for tucking in long skinny jeans; others, such as “Chelsea” or “paddock” boots, have narrow ankles, and are meant to be worn under pants legs).

Shoes for jeans are either very flat or very high. For day, ballerina flats are everywhere.

The newest have an ’80s-style pointy toe.

Loafers are also great with jeans, especial-

Slightly curvy colored denim straight leg jeans

by Eddie Bauer.

Prints, coatings, colors together

These jeans are as far from denim as you can go. They start with one of fall’s deep new base colors, then a fabulous print goes on top: black lace over cobalt blue; black crocodile over gold, with a coated finish; tiger cub print on soft corduroy.

Where and when do you wear all these wild and crazy jeans? The answer is, pretty much anywhere, depending on what you wear them with. Put a pair of crocodileprinted skinnies with solid-looking ankle boots and a chunky sweater and you’re good for day. Pair them with a silk shirt, necklaces and black pumps at night. They’re more dressed up than blue denim, but edgier and more fun than dress pants. Be warned, though: bosses at conservative offices may, alas, raise their eyebrows at leopard- or python-printed jeans.

Shapes are long and lean, but for every body

They are, however, surprisingly comfortable. “Ninety-nine point nine percent of our jeans have some kind of stretch,” Rovelli said.

At Indigo in Hastings, owner Carole Weart agreed that this season’s jeans are “tighter and more legging-like.” In fact, some of the newest entries in the jeans department are actually leggings with real or faux pockets.

Skinny-legged jeans are still the top silhouette, and they’re available in every size, from 0 to Plus. Can a size 20 customer really wear a skinny jean: absolutely, as long as they fit properly. (Hint for any size: if the jean has horizontal wrinkles when you try it on, try the next size.) This season, manufacturers are going beyond the low rise silhouette, even for skinnylegged jeans.

“The high-waisted skinny is better for a woman who doesn’t have a flat stomach, who doesn’t want that bulge hanging over their jeans,” Land said.

Whatever shape you choose, Land said, it should be “long and lean.” The three major silhouettes are skinny, straight and boot-cut. But even the boot-cut jeans have a sleek silhouette, with a minimal flare at the

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ly the ones called “smoking slippers” that come in all kinds of fabrics and patterns from velvet embroidered with fanciful crests or animals, to needlepoint and tapestry in wild patterns. How to wear the new smoking slipper? Since these shoes are attentiongetting on their own, it depends on the jean.

With solid colored jeans, your smoking slippers can be as wild as you like. With patterned jeans, crazily patterned shoes are just too much.

Heels with jeans are increasingly acceptable. The rule used to be that the wider the leg opening of the jeans, the higher the heel

we ’ve mo ve d SHOE INN SI HALF PAGE aqua bottom 2_SHOE INN SI 8/27/12 10:31 AM Page 1

Fall Fashion is a special section of

Fall Fashion

Jeans + shoes = fast fashion changes

to the RY E Sa m

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should be. This rule still holds true, because if you wear flats with wide-bottomed jeans, you risk looking as if you’re walking in a ditch. So, bite the bullet and wear a heel with those styles. The old rules also said that high-heeled pumps and platform sandals with skinny jeans looked skanky. But now that skinny jeans are practically ubiquitous, that rule has flown out the window. If you can actually walk in those high heels, platforms or wedges, go ahead and pair them with skinny jeans, especially at night. Nothing makes legs look longer than a combination of lean jeans and lofty platforms.

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Fall Fashion

Friday, September 14, 2012

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