Salon Focus- Winter 2023

P24: ENERGY COSTS How to reduce those soaring bills and access government help

P27: FUTURE-PROOF

Ten ways to ensure your business thrives in 2023 and beyond

P32: FEELING FAKE

The damage that impostor syndrome can wreak on mental health

P38: MARKETING Sparky and innovative ideas for pulling clients in – and keeping them

THERE IS MUCH YOU CAN DO TO PREPARE FOR THE UNKNOWN

The magazine of the National Hair & Beauty Federation

THE NHBF

One Abbey Court Fraser Road Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhbf.co.uk sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk

CHIEF EXECUTIVE Richard Lambert

DIGITAL MARKETING DIRECTOR

Samantha Turner-Meyern

EDITORIAL

Editor Aviva Attias aviva@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

Assistant editor Hollie Ewers

Content sub-editors James Hundleby, Kate Bennett

DESIGN

Senior designer Tom Shone Picture researcher Claire Echavarry

ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk 020 7880 6230

PRODUCTION

Production director Jane Easterman Account director Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

PRINTER

Manson Group, St Albans

COVER ILLUSTRATION

Getty

© The NHBF 2023

All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication. No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHBF.

Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap. Check your local LDPE facilities to find out how.

LAMBERT

While it may be the time of year for new starts and renewal, what the industry needs most right now is renewed government support. To this end, the NHBF wrote a letter to the chancellor outlining the six points needed to help support the industry with the cost of doing business crisis. The points included help with energy bills and a fairer tax system. You can read more on page 11.

On the topic of energy bills, the NHBF continues to offer support to Members. The NHBF partnership with Direct Business Solutions exists to help salons find new energy contracts. Find advice and learn how Members are reducing their energy on page 24.

Clients, of course, are also trying to wade their way through the cost of living crisis – so where does this leave salons and barbershops? Will cutting back translate to fewer clients through the door? Not necessarily, as you'll discover on page 20. There is absolutely a space for hair and beauty services in tough financial periods, and, in fact, surveys indicate that people actively look to make themselves feel good during such times. There's also scope for business owners to give back to the community. There's no doubt it does feel as

though there's one crisis after the other of late, and life naturally has its ups and downs. But positively, there is much you can do to prepare for the unknown and to future-proof your business (see page 27).

And if, understandably, it all feels a bit of an uphill struggle at times – to the point where you wonder if you're good enough – head to page 32 for plenty of illuminating insight.

It goes without saying that marketing remains a vital tool. Not sure where to start, or need an injection of creativity? Page 38 provides guidance on innovative marketing tips and tricks to use throughout the year.

Those already doing well in promoting their services on social media, while also being an inspiration to others, were recognised at the NHBF Top 100 Influencers Index at the end of 2022. Thank you to everyone who came to the Top 20 reveal. Congratulations to the winner! And, of course, to all in the Top 100. We have an interview with a Top five influencer on page 12. And on page 44, you can see some of the Top 30 at work. Plans are already underway for next year. Here's to feeling inspired.

NHBF CHIEF EXECUTIVE RICHARD

THE C U T

The

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY

The NHBF’s latest quarterly survey report (published October 2022) – A hair and beauty sector survival story 2020-2022 – reveals the rollercoaster that businesses have been on since the first Covid-19 lockdown in the UK and the continued restrictions and subsequent recoveries.

After an initial recovery in September 2021, businesses were only just returning to similar levels of business activity and confidence in July 2022. Productivity of sector businesses is now looking more positive. However, businesses are putting up prices to cope with the ‘cost of doing business’ crisis.

Costs of most impact on sector businesses include:

● Energy costs

● Supplier costs

● Rises to the National Minimum Wage/National Living Wage (NMW/NLW).

RECOMMENDATIONS

The NHBF is calling for the government to:

● Introduce a small business energy price cap, accompanied by emergency grant support to shield businesses from crippling energy bills.

● Continue business rates support.

● Offer targeted apprenticeship incentives to small and micro employers.

● Restrain rises to the NMW and NLW in 2023-24.

● Crack down on informal tax-evading sector businesses that charge lower prices and threaten the survival of responsible businesses. Read the full report at nhbf.co.uk/two-year-report

Debt is an issue in the sector:

● 42% of businesses are in debt, with 63% saying it would take more than two years to clear

● 68% had to use personal savings to support the business over the last year.

Sector reliance on government support for survival has been heavy, peaking at 80% in January 2022 but was still high at 50% in July 2022.

Businesses have been most worried about:

● Whether they’ll get clients back

● Paying bills each month (peaking in January 2022)

● Keeping staff/apprentices (peaking in July 2021)

● No savings if another lockdown

● Concerns over mental health of owner and staff (high in 2021).

Employment intentions have been relatively static, but now are a little more positive:

● 27% were definitely or likely to take on new staff over the next three months

● 21% were definitely or likely to take on apprentices in the next three months (up from 9% in April).

Growth intentions are balanced:

● 39% said that they intend to grow their business

● A consistent 45% intended to remain the same size

● 17% want to downsize or close the business.

Smashing the stigma

As a busy freelance hairdresser juggling family life and commitments, Cally Borg first considered opening a home salon to give herself more flexibility and create a better work/life balance. She soon evolved her business and created a professional and slick home salon.

Location

‘I set up my salon at the front of the house, in what was the dining room. When clients walk in, the salon is on the left and the toilet is on the right, so the business is kept at the front.’

Design

‘The basin was the first thing I decided on – it had to be professional because I wanted to create a real salon experience. I wanted the salon to represent me, which is why I chose the quirky pink floor, but I also wanted a space that was relaxed and calm, and would allow clients to switch off.’

Business

‘To make my prices competitive with high-street salons, I needed to have a good pricing rationale. Ultimately,

my clients are getting a one-to-one experience with everything they can expect from the high street, but on a more intimate scale.

Marketing

‘We haven’t got a shopfront, so the only way people see or hear about us is through word of mouth, or via social media platforms and our website. Once up and running, I used Instagram to highlight the new salon and pretty much doubled my clientele – we’ve got nearly 900 clients on our books. We also try to offer “extras” such as loyalty cards and digital moodboards from consultations.’

Success

‘Since opening in 2017, I now have two employees and I run a mentoring course where I share my knowledge and advice on the home salon business model. I love the flexibility and freedom it has given me – I don’t open evenings and weekends and my clients know this, so I’m not even asked for those appointments. I also love the opportunities it provides – I don’t have to pay high overheads, which means I have more time to nurture my staff and give back to my clients.’

CALLY’S TOP TIPS

Before creating a home salon:

• KNOW YOUR NUMBERS – Understand exactly what it will cost to run the business.

• ANY PRACTICAL PROBLEMS? – Have you considered parking? Does the council need to be notified of anything, such as a change of use or planning permission?

• BREAK THE STIGMA – It needs to be professional. You’re not ‘just’ a stylist working from home, you’re creating a salon and an experience.

• THINK DESIGN – Consider the space, lighting, utilities and customer journey, as well as the aesthetics.

• THINK BRANDING – What do you specialise in? Who are you catering to?

• SET BOUNDARIES – This is a business in your home. Set boundaries so that you’re not working all hours.

RESOURCES

• Find out more about Cally and her home salon at callyborg.com, and @callyborghair and

@callyhairsalon on Instagram

• NHBF Start-up guide for hair salons and barbershops: nhbf.co.uk/hair-startup-guide

• NHBF Salon design and fit-out guide: nhbf.co.uk/ salon-design-guide

Successful home salon owner Cally Borg on how she created a ‘six-figure’ business from her dining room and is changing the perception of home salons.

FINANCIAL SUPPORT

NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert responded to key points from the November budget.

MPs are exploring the value of complementar y therapies for supportingphysicaland mental health as

supporting physical and mental health, as part of the All-Party Parliamentary Group on Beauty and Wellbeing.

Refillable beauty products are proving increasingly popular as sales of refillable prestige beauty items rose by 47% in the UK in the first half of 2022 alone.

Have you got your new calendar yet? Why not treat yourself to the Hair and Beauty Charity calendar2023 featuring images shot by awardwinning hair photographer Michael Young. See bit.ly/ HBC-calendar-2023

He said: ‘The NHBF is pleased that the government has answered the NHBF’s call for further business rates support, increasing the discount from 50% to 75% in 2023/24, in addition to ensuring rates go up in affordable steps (by freezing the multiplier and the transitional relief scheme).’

However, Richard added that businesses already finding it hard to take on more apprentices and staff will find the rises to the National Living Wage make it even harder.

‘We are disappointed that the government has decided not to go ahead with the Online Sales Tax, which would have gone some way to levelling the playing field between high street-based and online businesses paying less tax.

‘Hair and beauty businesses are deep in a fight for survival and the willingness of the government to continue support for energy bills and the next phase of the Energy Bill Relief Scheme will be crucial,’.

The budget announcement came days after the NHBF wrote to chancellor Jeremy Hunt, calling for government support to help protect the health and beauty sector.

In the letter, a six-point plan was suggested to help businesses with escalating costs, inflation at 10% and consumer confidence falling.

The letter also highlighted the sector skills crisis affecting recruitment of entry level apprentices and experienced staff, as well as the issue of commercial rents rising, and having to pay potentially higher business rates post spring 2023. The six-point plan asked for:

• Continued support on energy bills

• Continued support on business rates

• Nurturing the next generation of talent

• Restraint on rises to NMW and NLW

• A fairer tax system

• Crackdown on tax evading businesses.

Read the full letter at nhbf.co.uk/ chancellor-protect

WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT

Plastic waste is on course to triple by 2060. Two thirds of this is expected to be made up of packaging, consumer products and textiles. (See refills above for how to help!)

A lack of knowledge by British consumers has been revealed: 59% don’t know whether their beauty professional is insured or qualified. Make sure your credentials are on show.

ause the formulation isn’t right for th

AMBER -ROSE PEAKE

Hairstylist and barber Amber-Rose is famed for her popular hair tutorials and came fourth in the NHBF’s Top 100 Influencers Index 2022.

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT COMING IN THE NHBF’S TOP FIVE OUT OF 100?

I feel honoured to be a part of a list of incredibly talented people, many of whom I look up to! I was completely shocked to be involved.

DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AS AN INFLUENCER?

I guess I see myself as a hairstylist who creates hair content. I love to share my knowledge with people and help them with their haircare.

WHAT CONTENT GETS THE MOST REACTION?

I see a girl with her hair on point, I think, ‘Oooh, I’m going to try that’.

HAVE YOU ALWAYS WANTED TO WORK IN THE INDUSTRY?

Since the age of five I wanted to be a hairdresser! I started a Saturday job at 14 and I couldn’t have asked for a better place to begin. After the first day, I remember feeling I was in the right place.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT WHAT YOU DO?

It’s so special when you see your client light up after a haircut and it’s given them confidence. Or someone saying: ‘I followed your advice and my hair is so much better’ – that’s the best part of the job. I love barbering, too. I find the clients are really chilled and I enjoy using a completely different skillset – it’s so fun to fade and be creative.

WHAT’S KEY TO YOUR SUCCESS?

Never giving up. It’s also important not to compare yourself to someone else’s journey, as everyone is on a different path.

WHAT MIGHT PEOPLE BE SURPRISED TO KNOW ABOUT YOU?

The hair hacks do really well. One video has 73 million views! I think it’s because they are easy to do and give instant results. The videos I get asked for most are volume hacks – I actually have quite fine hair, so I’m able to show how the volume tricks really do work.

WHO OR WHAT INFLUENCES YOU?

There’s industry ‘OGs’ I like to follow such as Eugene Souleiman (@eugenesouleiman), Sam McKnight (@hairbysammcknight) and Duff (@duffy_duffy), but I follow a range of niche accounts on subjects from art to surfing, as I find inspiration comes from other places too. Even out walking, if

N TH E a list of ny of letely N C ER ? list who hare my lp AC TI O N ? ne video s tant or most ave ow the n night ffy ange of m art to mes from ng,

Although I trained as a colour technician, I’m allergic to colour and have to avoid salons. I get my hair cut in barbershops.

WHAT’S IN STORE FOR THE FUTURE?

I’d love to get back into doing hair on music videos, and into a barbershop at least once a week. And to start working on a project I’ve had in mind for a while now – hopefully 2023 will be the year it comes to life!

PEAKE PERFORMANCE

TT and IG: @amberrosepeakehair

IG followers: 180k

TT followers: 267.1k

TT likes: 9m

NHBF Top 20 Influencers 2022

After a successful launch in 2021, the award-winning NHBF Top 100 Influencer Index Top 20 for 2022 was announced at a packed event in November.

The awards were held at Electric Space in London and hosted by freelance beauty editor Keeks Reid. In a final reveal, the results were live streamed on the NHBF YouTube channel and the exact placings of the Top 20 were unveiled, with congratulations all-round. 1 Jamie Genevieve

Caroline Hirons

Cher Webb

Amber-Rose Peake

Gareth Williams

Jess Maynard

Rob Wood

Harriet Westmoreland

Errol Douglas MBE

James Earnshaw

Pete Burkill

Jack Howard

Chloe Swift

Connor James Doyle

Lauren Churchill

Jaymz Masters

Sophia Hilton

Patrick Cameron

Joesph I’Anson

Nuala Morey

The 100th to 21st top influencers were announced on the NHBF social channels the week before the main event, with lots of new faces making the list.

isn’t just about numbers and reach, but influence and engagement. Ours is one of the UK’s most social media aware industries and we wanted to pay homage to those who use their channels to share their knowledge and opinions, and those who promote our industry in such a positive way.’

How were the influencers chosen?

NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert said it was no surprise that Jamie Genevieve – ‘one of the biggest beauty influencers there is’ – came straight in at number one, followed closely by last year’s winner, Caroline Hirons. He added: ‘It’s been fascinating to see the ups, downs and new entries across the Index. The Top 100 Influencers Index

TOP 100

• FOLLOWERS – the number of people following the nominees

• ENGAGEMENT – the number of mentions, shares, likes and impressions of the nominees’ posts

• REACH – how many people have seen the nominees’ posts.

Find the full Top 100 Index for 2022 at nhbf.co.uk/events/top-100-influencers

Extra bank holiday in 2023

An additional bank holiday to mark the coronation of His Majesty King Charles III will take place this year.

The bank holiday will fall on Monday 8 May, following the coronation on Saturday 6 May.

To create the index, the NHBF invited nominations from professionals currently working in the hairdressing, barbering, beauty, wellbeing or aesthetics industries. From an initial list of hundreds of nominations, an independent expert company then analysed these nominations based on the following data metrics to reach the Top 100: ith lots of new faces

Like the bank holiday to mark Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953, this is an opportunity for the UK to come together to celebrate.

There is no statutory right to time off on any public holiday, so the entitlement to additional leave on 8 May will depend on the wording of your contract of employment.

Go to nhbf.co.uk/coronation

DIARY DATES

says:

Thousands of salon owners have opened their doors in adverse weather conditions to welcome clients brave enough to venture out and keep their appointments.

The NHBF advises that salon owners who decide to shut because of adverse weather must pay their staff. However, salon owners do not have to pay staff who remain at home if the salon opens. Stay-at-home employees would have to take any days off as holiday, try to make up any missed hours over the next few days or take the time off as unpaid leave.

In some instances, there will be genuine reasons for absence. Employers should be sympathetic to those employees and deal with it under the appropriate policy or procedure, for example, dependents leave if the reason is that a child’s school is closed and they are without childcare for a day or two.

If employers find that employees have

used the weather as a reason to take time off, they are well within their rights to not pay the employee for the time they have taken off or request that the individual take the time as annual leave. If necessary, they could investigate the circumstances behind the absence and consider whether disciplinary action would be appropriate.

The NHBF suggests that Members put in place a formal procedure to deal with employees who are absent from work in such situations. Having a procedure to follow means an employer can show that employees are treated equally, fairly and reasonably, which is important if they want to discipline them for poor attendance.

RESOURCES

• NHBF Absence management guide: nhbf.co.uk/absence-management-guide

• NHBF quick guide – Snow show, the facts on pay: nhbf.co.uk/snow-show

• NHBF blog – Holiday entitlement for salon and barbershop employees: nhbf.co.uk/holiday

TAX IN ADVANCE

HMRC is urging those who submit tax returns under selfassessment to submit returns for 2021/22 well before the 31 January 2023deadline to give anyone unable to pay their tax bill in full by that date more time to access Time to Pay facility.

According to HMRC, since April 2022, almost 21,600 self-assessment customers who could not pay their tax bill in full have set up a payment plan to spread the cost into manageable monthly instalments – an increase of around 3900 customers on the previous year.

The NHBF will be at the following shows in the first part of 2023:

5-6 March at Pro-Beauty London

See more: professionalbeauty. co.uk/e/London/site/home 20 March at Salon Smart

See more: creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart/london-2023

Tina BeaumontGoddard, NHBF director of membership

SIGN OF THE TIMES

Rochdale-based hair and beauty students

Maham Butt and Nemra Idris are Deaf – but won’t let it affect their ambitions. What can salons do to welcome those with hearing impairments?

What’s been the most challenging aspect of training as a Deaf person?

Maham: Communicating, particularly with clients.

Nemra: Hearing hairdressers, therapists and barbers can talk to their clients throughout the treatment – but I can’t sign and colour or cut the client’s hair at the same time.

Do you wish there were more Deaf hair and beauty professionals?

Nemra: Yes! As a client it would be easier for me to communicate with them and I would feel less stressed. It can be hard to explain what I want. I have to read facial expressions and body language to try and understand. Sometimes they gesture to me, but I don’t always understand.

Maham: Writing it down doesn’t always help, either.

What needs to happen to encourage more Deaf people to join the industry?

Maham: Colleges should visit Deaf children in school to show them that they can join hair and beauty courses. There are educational interpreters in colleges who can sign the classes – they should be high level and have a good understanding of our needs.

Nemra: It’s also important to promote Deaf barbers and hairdressers on social media. People can find Deaf accounts and posts through searching hashtags.

What are your future plans once you’re qualified?

Maham: I plan to set up my own business and focus mainly on beauty. Deaf clients will be able to come to me for treatments without barriers.

Nemra: I’d like to set up my own business and employ Deaf staff. If I employed hearing staff, I would encourage them to complete their British Sign Language level 1. Hopefully I will become established and get lots of Deaf clients.

TOP TIPS FOR WELCOMING DEAF TEAM MEMBERS AND CLIENTS TO YOUR SALON

● Have a tick list for jobs in the salon and use a whiteboard to write things down.

● Learn relevant signs, such as ‘set up’, ‘gloves’, ‘client’, ‘colour’ and ‘manicure’.

● Create flash cards with common questions for clients and staff, such as ‘Would you like tea or coffee?’

● Use gestures, point, show pictures and be patient.

● Be aware of background noise, such as hairdryers, which can make it harder to hear through a cochlear implant or hearing aid.

● Face clients when communicating and ensure the lighting is good, as they may rely on lip-reading.

● Have fun as a team by making up your own signs for more obscure items.

● Be present on social media so everyone can keep up with what’s going on in the salon.

THE NEXT LEVEL

What? T levels are a new technical qualification that will be offered by schools and colleges for students aged 16 to 19 in England. An alternative to A levels and apprenticeships, T levels are two-year programmes set at level 3 and are equivalent to three A levels. When? The T level for hairdressing, beauty and barbering will be introduced in September 2023. How? Students will complete a common core programme and then specialise in hairdressing, barbering or beauty therapy. Every student completes an industry placement that lasts a minimum of 315 hours. Why? In response to employers highlighting the skills shortage impacting the future success of the industry, the government has worked with hundreds of employers to design T level courses that deliver the skills that organisations need.

NHBF director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey says: ‘Considering the threats to the future of the sector, it is vital that we have a pipeline of talent, built on robust training and education, to meet the needs of salons and barbershop businesses in the future.

‘Though hair and beauty employers might prefer prospective employees to enter the sector via a “job ready” route or qualification, such as an occupational traineeship or apprenticeship, there is not the capacity within the sector for this to be the only route into employment.’

Another option

While the NHBF skills crisis report and State of the Industry Survey highlight that hair and beauty businesses have unfilled vacancies, Caroline says the T level route will give businesses another option given the difficulties with recruiting school leavers, allowing students to explore a diverse range of employment opportunities.

Caroline says: ‘The government’s investment into T levels will ensure the calibre of lecturers and standard of delivery is raised in the college environment and the qualification achieved is standardised.’

What can employers do?

The main ways employers can be involved is via industry placement. ‘Employers will be able to use the T level work

placements as opportunities to identify young people they would want to take on and train further,’ says Caroline. ‘Employers may already know providers if they have apprenticeships or already offer work experience.’ Caroline also suggests asking them what plans they have for industry placements and T levels. ‘Links with local providers are useful if employers recruit locally as they are likely to have students who live within easy travelling distance,’ she says.

For a more in-depth look into T levels and what they mean for employers, check out the next issue of salonfocus

RESOURCES

• NHBF blog – T levels, the next level qualification: nhbf.co.uk/t-levels

• T level summary: bit.ly/t-levels-summary

• T levels and industry placement support for employers: bit.ly/t-levels-hair-beauty

• T level in hairdressing, barbering and beauty therapy: bit.ly/IATE-t-levels-overview

The new hair and beauty T level is being introduced in September. How much do you know about it?

WORDS KATHY OXTOBY

YOUR TRUE VALUE

During World War II, Polish-American entrepreneur Helena Rubinstein encouraged women to wear ‘Regimental Red’ lipstick to boost morale.

‘And the power of lipstick to instil confidence still holds true,’ says Steph Stevenson, founder and owner of HNB Salon & Spa in Poole, Dorset. ‘With the cost of living crisis, wearing lipstick still inspires strength and optimism within ourselves,’ she says.

But lipstick is more than a mood booster. For the hair and beauty industry, lipstick sales are a way to show its strength and resilience when budgets are tight. The ‘lipstick effect’ is a leading economic indicator.

‘In a world that is economically and socially harsh and uncertain, we go for products like lipstick because they are a treat – a reminder of one’s beauty, an

escape from reality, and relatively cheap,’ explains Lina Mookerjee, a relational psychotherapist.

Morale booster

On the other hand, a global study by Avon in the summer revealed 20% of women are choosing to go without make-up, and 15% are cutting back on skincare due to the cost-of-living crisis.

So where does this leave UK hair and beauty businesses? Will clients start tightening their belts, or will they be in even greater need of a morale boost?

Carolyn Sweeney is owner of Creations in Chichester. Her salon has achieved 7% client growth since it reopened following the pandemic. ‘As an industry, we know we can grow during difficult times, and that new salons will open during a recession. That’s because people may not be able to afford a whole new wardrobe, but they will have a haircut because it makes them feel good.’

How can hair and beauty businesses make themselves indispensable amid the cost of living crisis, and help people in the process?

Promote your value

But the sector cannot rely on clients wanting a pick-me-up to get it through tough economic times. ‘We have to remain cautious, realistic and thoughtful about how we can future-proof our businesses. And we need to start thinking about it now,’ says Steph (turn to page 27 for more tips on staying ahead in all kinds of crises).

During this cost of living crisis it’s more important than ever for people in the hair and beauty industry to look at ways to make themselves indispensable to clients. ‘We’ve got to prove our value,’ says Carolyn. ‘We need to get the message out there about how great a good haircut can make us feel.’

‘Pampering can make a massive difference to our wellbeing,’ says Lina. ‘Services such as a head massage, will release endorphins, which trigger positive feelings and have a calming effect.’ So it’s about highlighting the invaluable benefits of the industry.

Social media can be an effective tool to promote and attract new business. Laura Bull, salon owner of CODE Hair Consultants in Suffolk, learned its value during the pandemic. ‘Our team took a course on how to grow your business through using Instagram and learned how it can help you to talk directly to your perfect client – the person you want to come to your salon,’ says Laura.

Go bespoke

Providing a personal service also plays a valuable part in helping to keep the industry ‘essential’. ‘Don’t underestimate the importance of taking a personal approach,’ advises Joan Harvey, a consumer psychologist and senior lecturer at Newcastle University. ‘Take personal notes about individual clients – their likes and dislikes –to get to know and understand them better.’

Laura ensures each client has a personal welcome message on their salon mirror. Drinks are served on a ‘treat tray’ with a decanter of sweets. ‘It’s about creating a memorable experience for the client and making them feel good, as well as giving them

SALES OF LIPSTICK – THE SECTOR’S ‘LEADING ECONOMIC INDICATOR’ – ARE GROWING TWICE AS FAST AS OTHER BEAUTY PRODUCTS

a good haircut,’ says Laura. She says another way of ‘getting personal’ is to run a loyalty card scheme – and it doesn’t have to be expensive. ‘When products are on special offer we give them out as gifts to clients. We offer them the chance to try new products, and they can enter a monthly raffle to win a luxury head massage given by a junior team member.’

Meanwhile Steph’s salon runs a membership programme where members’ hairdressing and beauty bills come out of their bank as a monthly direct debit. ‘The scheme means hair and beauty becomes part of a client’s normal expenditure. It also encourages clients to stay with our salon should their usual hairdresser move on, makes them feel part of a community, and brings the salon guaranteed income,’ she says.

Why you matter

The industry is fortunate to be in a position where it can help clients and community. Hairdressers, beauticians and barbers often take on the role of therapists of course as clients share their – sometimes distressing – life experiences, says Lina. ‘Salons and barbers are a safe point of call where people can offload.’

Laura ensures her staff are equipped with the communication skills to manage sensitive and difficult conversations with clients, and also has a trained mental health first aider. ‘It’s important to create a positive, safe space in the salon, where staff are approachable, empathetic and really listen,’ she says.

Salon and barber owners often team up with charities to help vulnerable people. Steph’s salon has

teamed up with charity MYTIME Young Carers to help boost the confidence and wellbeing of young carers. As part of the charity’s employability programme, staff give free makeovers, including health and beauty treatments, before job interviews. ‘We know these makeovers make a real difference to their confidence – and the staff love them too,’ says Steph.

Think of your teams

As well as supporting clients’ mental health during these difficult times and generally, it’s crucial salon owners look after their teams, says Carolyn.

During times of economic hardship, it’s even more important for the industry to invest in its people. ‘We need to educate and motivate them to deliver an exceptional customer experience.’

Steph says: ‘You need to create a culture of positivity and a sense of togetherness in your salon, making sure your team is empathetic and caring.’

Happy and healthy clients start with a happy and healthy team. Carolyn says: ‘We need to love, train, and nurture our teams, so that they can care for their clients and make them feel good. We won’t get through these difficult times without them.’

RESOURCES

LIPSTICK EFFECT THE BUSINESS

CASE STUDY GIVING BACK

BEN COLLINS IS A BARBER AT INSTA BARBER, REDDITCH, WORCESTERSHIRE

This summer, I gave free haircuts to more than 100 kids going back to school, to help families struggling with the cost of living crisis. I wanted to give back to our younger community and ensure the kids were looking fresh before school started.

Last year, I was in a car accident and had my index finger amputated, which affected my confidence as a barber. While I was out of work, I came up with the free haircuts idea. The owner of Insta Barber agreed I could use his shop, and other members of staff joined in.

A bonus was that as well as helping families, I was able to regain my confidence at Insta Barber, whose owner then gave me a job.



NHBF blog – What makes an outstanding client experience?: nhbf.co.uk/client-experience 

NHBF blog – The importance of good mental health for your salon: nhbf.co.uk/mental-health 

MYTIME: mytimeyoungcarers. org/get-involved

I’m now working with charities such as the Friends of Isaac’s Food Bank to help the community.

Being a barber is not just about giving a haircut – it’s about having conversations that can help people and signpost them to support. As a barbering community we need to strive to help whoever, and whenever we can.

THE CRISIS

WORDS KELLIE SMITH

HOW ARE YOU REDUCING YOUR ENERGY?

W

hile saving energy for sustainability reasons has been on the industry’s radar for some time, it has now become critical for their very survival. With energy costs rising, the results of the latest NHBF State of the Industry survey (October 2022) reveal the extent of Members’ worries: more than nine in 10 (93%) described energy costs as their main concern, compared with 77% in July 2022.

Ryan Crawford, owner of Crawford Hair near Milton Keynes, has been trying to reduce energy consumption in his salon since his bills started going up in autumn 2021. His efforts include turning off lights, making the most of the natural light coming in through the Velux windows, and using cold water to clean.

Ryan has a team of seven stylists and apprentices, and they regularly meet to discuss how the salon can save energy.

‘I spent a lot of time battling the energy company to try and get out of a three-year contract,’ he says. ‘I gave up as it was taking a lot of time and keeping me away from the business.’

Rising costs mean there is less money to spend on other areas of the business. To ensure he can continue to provide staff training, Ryan is working extra hours, unpaid, to balance extra bills and cover training costs.

‘Everything is going up in price, not just gas and electricity. As well as trying to conserve energy, we’re going to increase prices slightly and hope clients stay. It’s a difficult balance.’

With energy bills at an all-time high, what support is available and what can you do to get through the months ahead – and beyond?

CASE STUDY

How prices are affecting the sector

The survey results also revealed that more than three-quarters (77%) of Members are paying more for energy now than they were six months ago, and energy costs have increased by more than 40% for half of businesses.

The NHBF is lobbying the UK government to show how rising energy bills are impacting hair and beauty businesses.

‘One of the points we learned during the pandemic is that you can’t assume the government understands the sector,’ says NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert. ‘We need to work hard to educate it. We’re using the findings from Member surveys to give the government a real sense of how price increases are affecting the sector.’

Help is at hand

In response to Members’ energy bill concerns, the NHBF set up a partnership with energy broker Direct Business Solutions in 2022 to help salons find new energy contracts.

Finding contracts can be incredibly complex for businesses, says Richard. ‘Using a consultancy will make Members’ lives easier. They can take their requirements to somebody who understands the market and get a recommendation for the best contract

● If your contract is about to end, negotiate a fixed energy contract quickly. The sooner you do this, the cheaper the rate will be. Have this in place before energy prices continue to rise.

● If you don’t have an energy contract, secure one. Suppliers will charge you more if you’re out of contract because they aren’t buying your energy in advance. At October 2022 prices, if you’re out of contract, you could be paying £10,000a year extra in energy bills for your salon. See nhbf.co.uk/ energy-partnership for help.

● If you’re in arrears, speak to your supplier or a consultancy to resolve the situation. Make sure you’re paying your bills and not cancelling direct debits. Don’t bury your head in the sand – be open and honest.

● Secure your business. To get through the next 12 months, salons and barbershops need to increase profit while retaining and attracting clients. You can’t keep increasing prices, as you may put off clients who are struggling.

● Reduce energy consumption. For instance, after every appointment, remove devices such as hairdryers and straighteners from plugs rather than leaving them on standby.

● Get your staff on board. Encourage your team to remember simple actions, such as turning lights off and switching off

at the wall when not in use.

ENERGY IS THE FIRST- OR SECONDLARGEST OVERHEAD FOR SALONS

for them. This will leave them time to focus on providing a good service for clients.’

He adds that it’s not just about getting the cheapest deal, as a company may end up collapsing if it can’t sustain the price. ‘Direct Business Solutions will look at energy providers to make sure they’re able to provide the contract over the set period.’

Government support

In October 2022, the UK government launched the Energy Bill Relief Scheme (EBRS) to give businesses six months of discounted energy bills. This includes all businesses that secured new energy contracts from 1 December 2021.

NHBF director of policy and public affairs Rosina Robson says that at the end of March 2023, a new scheme will be launched for businesses that need extra support. Keep an eye out on the NHBF website for updates.

She adds: ‘The results from the State of the Industry survey show the rollercoaster ride that hair and beauty businesses have been on, and how energy intensive the industry is. We want to make the case for the sector so the government categorises it as vulnerable and provides further support to Members.’

After the Autumn 2022 budget in November, NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert added: ‘Energy is the first- or second-largest overhead for salons, so that decision [on the EBRS], when it comes, may determine whether it’s game over or not for many businesses at the heart of the high street and their community.’

RESOURCES

NHBF blog – Government Energy Bill Relief Scheme and energy saving tips: nhbf.co.uk/energy-efficiency

The government’s Energy Bill Relief Scheme: bit.ly/ energy-bill-relief-scheme

Latest NHBF State of the Industry survey: nhbf.co.uk/impact

NHBF energy partnership: nhbf.co.uk/energypartnership

BUILT TO LAST

WORDS GEORGINA WINTERSGILL

When you’re running a business, you need to expect the unexpected – whether it’s a salon opening next door, staffing issues, rising energy costs or even a global pandemic. The ability to tackle challenges as they arise is key for a successful business. The good news is that difficult times also offer opportunities that could be life-changing – such as changing company culture for the better or refocusing your direction. Here, four industry experts offer advice for giving your business staying power.

Ten ways to be more prepared for whatever life throws your way and help your salon or barbershop thrive, no matter what.

CASE STUDY IT’S ABOUT LOVE – AND MONEY

Louise HowardLong of Architect Hair in Headingley, Leeds, describes how she transformed her business.

I started the salon 14 years ago and it took some time to get the right team, but now we have a team that’s so tight. If you create your team rather than buy them in, they have a lot more loyalty and stay with you for a long time. I’ve got team members I’ve had from apprentices – one for 14 years. It’s about love –and training, and paying well. Our team work on commission – 38% or more, minus VAT.

The last thing I thought about when I started the business was money – I just wanted it to be good. But now I’m in a very different place and it is about the finances, although you’ve also got to have passion for your work. You’ve got to realise that it’s a business and there’ll be a point where you can sell it or pass it on, but it’s got to be viable. Start off knowing your break-even, your costs and what you want, and work backwards from there. Now we have money in the bank.

1 NURTURE YOUR TEAM

If employees feel valued, they’ll want to stay – and you’ll find it easier to recruit the best talent. NHBF director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey says: ‘Staff training is a massive thing that often gets overlooked. It isn’t only about formal qualifications – they are an essential starting point, but you can also utilise the experience of more experienced staff members to teach soft skills, like how to deal with difficult clients.’

2 GET YOUR FINANCES IN ORDER

continually build it up, whether for emergency use or future salon investment.’

3 BE FLEXIBLE

In changing times, it’s essential to adapt. ‘We noticed that, since Covid-19, clients were getting their colour done less often – so we started a new top-up service,’ says Stacey. ‘Rather than waiting 12 weeks, they can come in at week eight for a face-frame and a gloss and top-up.’

4 STAY VISIBLE

When you’re faced with higher rents, energy bills and product costs, it may be tempting to slash the marketing budget. This is a mistake, says Caroline Sanderson, director of award-winning brand Ego Hair Design in Inverness and founder of Salon Jedi, a training academy for salon business and mindset. ‘If you switch off marketing, you switch off visibility,’ she explains. ‘Just choose wisely

With the UK now expected to go into a recession that will last until the summer of 2023, it’s essential to have money in the bank. Stacey Whyte, owner of Cheveux Salon in Loanhead, near Edinburgh, says: ‘I have a reserve of at least six months and I try to

dinburgh, reserve of at onths

and be smart with what you invest in.’ (See page 38 for innovative marketing ideas.)

5 CHANGE YOUR MINDSET

A positive mindset can be as valuable as an excellent skillset. Caroline Sanderson says: ‘In these tough times, the real challenge is being able to stay mentally and emotionally strong. There are always winners in a downturn, so I kept focusing on that, moving forward, growing the business and upgrading my skills.’

6 HAVE ROBUST SALON POLICIES

No-shows and lastminute cancellations are a real headache for salons. ‘Since Covid-19, we’ve been a lot more hardline about enforcing our cancellation charge,’ says Stacey. ‘If people cancel within 24 hours, 50% is payable. It’s a business-saver.’

7 CHECK YOUR PRICING

Work out your pricing structure carefully, making sure you’ve taken everything into account. ‘It’s not just

staff costs and product,’ says Stacey. ‘Take into account the time a service takes, development time, product cost, electricity use and the cost to have the business open during that time.’

8 STAY COMPETITIVE: ADD VALUE

In a cost-of-living crisis, clients appreciate value for money. ‘Even in tough times people will still have treatments, but they look for value,’ says Caroline Sanderson. ‘During the last recession, we focused on bundles and upgrades rather than cost-cutting, making sure we were still profitable.’

9 THINK CAREFULLY ABOUT SELF-EMPLOYED STAFF

Taking on self-employed staff may seem like a good way to save money, but you still need to check their qualifications and insurance, and any client complaints will still reflect on your business. As Caroline Larissey says: ‘Clients often assume everyone is employed by the salon.’

RESOURCES

• Skills Zone – new business support resources for NHBF Members: nhbf.co.uk/skills-zone

• NHBF Recruiting and employing people guide: nhbf.co.uk/recruitment-guide

• Government support on offer for small businesses: bit.ly/gov-small-business-support

THE REAL CHALLENGE IS BEING ABLE TO STAY MENTALLY AND EMOTIONALLY STRONG

10 GROW YOUR OWN

Taking on an apprentice is a great way to ‘grow your own’ loyal workforce. Caroline Larissey says: ‘We’re always advocates of “grow your own”. It’s the best way of making sure people are working to your standards and embracing your company ethos right from the start.’

BIG PROBLEMS FOR SMALL BUSINESSES

wants to hear from you

Do you have invaluable insight that

love to share with fellow salon and barbershop owners? Perhaps you fancy being interviewed for a feature?

We’re looking to add even more NHBF Member experience and expertise to the articles and news stories in the magazine. If you think you’ve got something to say from a barber, hair or beauty perspective – we want to hear from you all!

You would be adding priceless wisdom, helping fellow professionals, and even shaping the content. Want to get in touch?

If so, please email the magazine’s assistant editor Hollie Ewers at hollie@ salonfocusmagazine.co.uk with your suggestions or for further information.

you’d

Do you hav that you sa owners? interv

Smart software

Phorest Salon Software was born on the salon floor and bred to help you thrive! With over 9000 spas and salons as customers across the globe and growing, Phorest has become the system of choice for forward-thinking salon owners.

Phorest is packed with clever integrated features to increase your bottom line, help boost your brand and help you make smarter decisions from one simple tool.  PhorestPay Card Terminals are an exciting recent launch. Now you can have one seamless system for taking payment from your clients – from when they book an appointment with you to when they tap their card at checkout.

On average we know that salons spend up to seven hours a month fixing reconciliation problems, and lose on average £175 a month due to input errors. That’s over £2000 and 80 hours a year.

Easy and accurate, PhorestPay Card Terminals make end-of-day dramas a thing of the past.

To find out more about PhorestPay Card Terminals, visit phorest.com

Keeping you in the know

Brands showcase their latest products

Quality tools give clients the chance to recreate their salon style between visits and protect their hair from mechanical damage. So retailing tools alongside professional haircare and styling products makes perfect sense all round.

Denman offers a three-step detangle, style, and finish presentation stand or allows

professional clients to pick the products they would like to retail à la carte. Trade customers get up to 20% on the RRP, plus retail pack

You can sign up for a trade account at denmanbrush.com or to view the retail options, email orders@denmanbrush.com

WORDS ANNA SCOTT

Gigi Hadid – model, TV personality and clothing line creator – recently told Vogue: ‘I have impostor syndrome all the time.’

It’s common for people to think they’re not as competent as others believe they are, that they don’t deserve their job or that their success is down to external factors – even multi-millionaire models. Sufferers also fear they won’t live up to expectations, and are sensitive to constructive criticism.

According to one survey, as many as three in five (58%) UK employees experience impostor syndrome. Nearly twice as many women (21%) suffer from it as men (12%), and employees aged 25 to 39 (27%) are more likely to experience it than those aged 65 and above (3%). People of colour are 15% more likely to experience impostor syndrome than white people, different research finds.

The hair and beauty industry reflects this. ‘Impostor syndrome is massive within our industry,’ says Brooke Evans, director at BE Ironbridge, a salon in Telford. ‘Not just with things like stage shows and thinking you didn’t do something to the best of your ability, but also our self-worth within the salon.’

Krysia West, owner of Perfectly Posh Hair Salon in Hungerford, agrees. ‘Some people in our industry are so badly affected that they are constantly seeking recognition and “likes” on social media,’ she says. ‘They are asking for feedback but cannot accept criticism.’

Mental cost

Constantly questioning your ability and how you got to your position is mentally draining. ‘Impostor syndrome is difficult to live with,’ Krysia says. ‘Even though people

tell me that I can do something, I still have self-doubt and self-criticism.’

Dr Valerie Young, an expert on impostor syndrome, says: ‘For some, it might manifest in holding back. For others, it might mean overworking and overpreparing, or procrastination.’

Overwork due to perfectionism can lead to burnout, and people with anxiety may feel more severe impostor syndrome. However, impostor syndrome itself is not a mental health condition. ‘Anyone is susceptible,’ Valerie says. Parents who pressure children or don’t pressure them enough, fields of work – especially creative industries – and organisational cultures can also cause impostor syndrome, she explains.

Krysia adds: ‘Society has put so much pressure on us to achieve such high standards, especially when it comes to social media. It tends to show things that have been edited, or people’s successes. When we fail, impostor syndrome appears because we can’t see our peers failing.’

Solutions

This doesn’t mean we’re all doomed! Valerie doesn’t talk about a cure for impostor syndrome, but about insight, information and tools. ‘So when you have an impostor moment, you can talk yourself down quickly.’

Edward Hemmings, creative director and director of education at Alan d Hairdressing in London, believes in taking stock of your

achievements and telling yourself: ‘I’m here because I’m good enough.’

CASE STUDY

TOP TIPS MANAGING IMPOSTOR SYNDROME

• Write down affirmations of your abilities, experience and skills, and successes every day.

• Save any emails or messages you receive where people praise your work.

• Try not to compare yourself with others – instead focus on becoming a better version of yourself.

• Talk to your peers, friends and family about your feelings. You will find that people experience impostor syndrome.

‘HAVING

PEOPLE IN THE INDUSTRY TO TALK TO HELPS’

Brooke Evans, director at BE Ironbridge, says: ‘I come across as confident and like I know what I’m doing, but going home and thinking you could have done better, or comparing yourself to others, is hard. Comparison is the thief of joy.’

Brooke says she is fortunate to have people in the industry she can talk to, which helps. She’s also recently started to record how well things have gone. ‘I write down what I did well and what I could have done better. If there isn’t a “better” I focus on the fact that I have done well and being proud of myself. This has helped massively.’

She points out that salon owners should feel able to put their prices up for good service, especially given rising inflation. ‘We’ve just announced our prices will be increasing next week and I’ve been so nervous. It takes a while to get out of your own head and believe you’re worth more.’

He adds: ‘You are doing something because someone thinks you are good enough.’ He points to young stylists who have completed their training still feeling they are not good enough when they start work. ‘They absolutely are ready to get on and do it. Preparation is key.’

Robert Rix, owner of The Master Barber’s Shop in Southport, agrees. ‘Competence equals confidence’, he says, adding that one of his apprentices started shy and nervous, but ‘buckled down and excelled’. ‘If they are competent, their personal confidence will show,’ he says.

Valerie believes people can learn how to think like someone who is humble (as opposed to arrogant) and competent but does not experience impostor syndrome. ‘This notion that you must experience impostor syndrome in order to be ambitious and competent, a precocious talent or empathetic is false and harmful,’ she says. Instead, we should remember our own skills, experience and capability.

• Guide your team members to succeed, praise them and encourage their confidence when they do well.

RESOURCES

• The Impostor Syndrome Institute – resources and advice on impostor syndrome from Dr Valerie Young, expert on impostor syndrome: impostorsyndrome.com

• How to overcome impostor syndrome: bit.ly/how-toovercome-IS

• ’Body language may shape who you are‘ – Social psychologist Amy Cuddy’s TED Talk on how we can overcome impostor syndrome with body language: ted.com/speakers/amy_cuddy

TRIUMPHANT

WORDS ANDY MCGRATH

When it’s time to step back from running a salon or barbershop, whether to help the business expand or for retirement reasons, there’s a lot to think about to ensure business keeps booming. It may seem obvious, but the business needs to be successful to be of value when it comes to selling. As the old saying goes, fail to prepare, prepare to fail. Succession planning – the process and strategy for replacing critical staff or passing on leadership roles – is essential.

Anne Veck has been through the process with aplomb. After taking over her first salon in Oxford in 1991, her business went from strength to strength. A decade later, she opened a second salon in Bicester.

If you’re moving in a new direction, it pays to plan ahead with thought and precision.

THE BUSINESS NEEDS TO BE SUCCESSFUL TO BE OF VALUE WHEN IT COMES TO SELLING

However, a milestone birthday and carpal tunnel pains in her hand forced Anne to stop and think. ‘Why am I doing all this?’ she asked. ‘Do I need to work as hard as this and be responsible for all the staff and running a salon? I realised I didn’t, and it was time to change something.’

Anne decided to sell her businesses, but succession can also mean becoming a franchisor or continuing to work. Perhaps you want to sell so that you can open a brand new venture, or maybe you want a manager to run your business while

43% OF FAMILY BUSINESSES DON’T HAVE A SUCCESSION PLAN IN PLACE

TOP TIPS WHATEVER YOUR REASONS FOR STEPPING BACK…

• Think about succession planning in good time (it’s wise to include it in your overall business plan) and make an exit strategy

• If selling, get an expert valuation to ensure the best price

• If seeking a buyer, a reputable business broker can do the work while you carry on running the business

• If hiring a manager, create a clear description and interview in depth

• Explore whether an internal candidate has the necessary business knowledge

• If becoming a franchisor, have a replicable business model, sufficient funds and business skills

• Be patient: the process, including legal administration, takes time

• Once finalised, communicate clearly to staff and clients.

you work on other projects. ‘It really depends on your personal situation, what you want to do afterwards and whether you need all the money in one go,’ says Anne.

How to do it

Finding the right person to take the helm is not always easy. However, when it came to Anne’s Bicester salon, the answer was right in front of her:

her friend Tia Jacobs, who had worked with her for 15 years. In 2019, they agreed a management buyout: a lump sum was paid, then a monthly fee for three years while Tia raised funds. ‘There was no real risk for us because we did it all through solicitors. We also knew exactly what the salon was making,’ says Anne.

They had a string of initial meetings explaining how the salon was run, and Anne was available in the background to help with any issues during the transition. ‘When they bought the salon, they were ready with their own website, Instagram and so on,’ Anne says. ‘The day we sold it, the salon changed its name [to Edith et Moi].’

The transfer of her Oxford salon in March 2022 was similar. Kelly Spragg had been there since her work experience days, so Anne and she had a mutual trust. Kelly went on a business course to prepare herself and assisted Anne in managing the salon for nine months, adapting gradually to her new role of owner.

DON’T PUT IT OFF

SUCCESSION PLANNING THE

BUSINESS

Anne says the wage structure was the biggest thing for Kelly to understand. ‘She had a bit of an issue opening a business bank account because of Covid-19, so it took a little longer to put things in place,’ she says.

Communication is key Effective communication of an ownership change is key to retaining valued customers. Anne’s clients were told in person over the fi months and sent a newsletter about the sale. Staff were also informed and kept on, with no need for redundancies.

While Anne’s two buyers are like family to her, the successors of industry veteran

y cation an is to retaining were the first several th o informed and or redundancies. o er,

Saying goodbye isn’t easy, as NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert knows – he found out that his long-time hairdresser was closing from a note on the door. Emotional attachment is just one of many reasons to put off succession planning.

you are going to be much better off thinking through what you want and putting arrangements in place around a plan rather than dealing with it at the point in time you think it needs to happen. If you plan ahead, you’ll get the result you’re looking for.’

30%

I bett ’A A lot s b business to month says. ‘No

It’s better to be methodical. ’A lot of salons don’t have written business plans and work month to month, year to year,’ Richard says. ‘Nothing lasts forever, and

The NHBF has business advice on the website for Members. You can also get support from business coaches listed in the NHBF trade Member directory.

Russell Eaton – who owns salons in Leeds and Barnsley – literally will be: the 70-year-old intends his son Robert and daughter Isobel to take over when he hangs up his scissors. ‘There was never any grand plan – it’s developed organically over the years,’ he says. His advice for passing along salons and barbershops is ‘be determined and prepared to see it through. It’s a lot of hard work, but most hairdressers are used to that.’

Moments of doubt are natural, too. ‘When you open a salon, it’s a bit like having a baby. Letting go is not easy,’ says Anne. ‘I went through a phase thinking that I’d made the biggest mistake, that this salon was my identity. It was silly: I’m loving my new routine and having time to get involved in new projects.’

Anne still freelances in her salon for two days a week, while also teaching. She has no regrets. ‘This week, it was Edith et Moi’s last payment, so we are going out to drink champagne and celebrate,’ she says. When it comes to succession, avoid the drama and complications and enjoy the success.

WHEN YOU OPEN A SALON, IT’S A BIT LIKE HAVING A BABY. LETTING GO IS NOT EASY

RESOURCES

• NHBF Selling your business guide: nhbf. co.uk/selling-guide

• NHBF blog – Selling? Retiring? Taking on a manager? Planning ahead for your salon or barbershop: nhbf.co.uk/planning

• CIPD guide to succession planning: bit.ly/CIPDsuccession-planning

OF BUSINESS CLOSURES COULD BE CONSIDERED TRANSFER FAILURES

Marketing –the process of getting people interested in your business’s product or service – is key to both attracting new clients and retaining old ones. And while advertising, promotions and leveraging seasonal events such as Valentine’s Day are the standard means of marketing, it’s important to also think outside of the box in order to spark interest in your salon or barbershop business. So where should you begin?

WORDS HOLLIE EWERS

EVANS

USE INFLUENCERS

I recommend looking to influencers in your area to help promote your services on social media. We’ve been working with a lady in her mid-50s who has 100,000-plus followers on Instagram – she has white hair and every time she posts after a session with us, we get clients from that, which is great. She actually pays for her hair appointments, but if it ever got to a point where she expected them for free, I’d give them to her, purely because of how much she brings to the salon.

INVEST IN A PR

If you want to up your game in the industry, having a good PR behind you will push you to a whole new level. While it is an outlay at the start, some

67%

OF MARKETERS SAY THEY WORK WITH ‘MICROINFLUENCERS’ WITH 10K-100K FOLLOWERS

PRs let you try out their services for a trial period. A great PR can make you think laterally – I don’t think I’d be doing half the stuff I am doing now if I didn’t have them.

LOVE YOUR LOCAL COMMUNITY

Tap into and get talking among the local community groups on

Facebook. Use these to highlight any cancellation appointments, as they often get reshared quickly and can get those empty slots filled straightaway. Highlight any promotions or events on here, too –it’s all about reaching out to local people to let them know who and where you are.

FREE COFFEE, ANYONE?

This wasn’t my idea, but a barber gives away 100 free coffees a month at his local coffee shop. All the person selling the coffee has to do is attach the barbershop’s sticker, which has its logo and ‘with compliments’ on it, to the cup that’s given away. I think that’s a great idea for local marketing.

VIVIENNE JOHNS

PICTURE YOUR IDEAL CLIENT

If I was starting a new business Instagram account, I would first figure out who my dream client is, and what their pain points and barriers to booking are. I would then create content that dispels those barriers solely for them. For example, if they’re worried about parking, I would make a video that shows you walking from the car park to the salon and then through the front door to a lovely, welcoming, smiley face. Make sure you know who your dream client is and think about them when you do everything – is this useful to them? Does this solve a problem for them? Would they want this?

LOOK AT CHATBOTS

With customer-business conversations increasingly taking place online, automated messaging tools such as Instagram chatbots are really useful. They can answer

clients’ questions in DMs with an automated response, or refer them to different parts of your website for more information.

REMOVE FONTS

I would remove fancy fonts in social media bios because they can’t be read by screen readers, which people with visual impairments use to enjoy Instagram. By using those fonts, you’re making your page less accessible.

BROOKE

Salon owner and NHBF Shines On podcast host

Instagram coach, founder of the Hairdressers Social Club and former salon owner

98% OF MARKETERS BELIEVE THAT VIDEO WILL PLAY AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN MARKETING OVER THE COMING YEARS

DO’S AND DON’TS

SAM TURNER-MEYERN

THINK DIGITALLY

Social media management systems allow you to plan and push out your content to all channels by pushing one button. Also, are all your business details correct on Google? You want potential new clients to be able to contact you easily.

TRY A MEMBERSHIP

Not only does a salon membership make your client base feel special, it also guarantees you are still bringing in a regular monthly income (see the Autumn 2022 issue of salonfocus – page 17, and page 20 of this issue).

PLAN FOR 2023

Running your own business is time consuming, so any form of planning will take the pressure off – but you need to make sure your plan is flexible and realistic, and that there’s a mixture of activity across all marketing channels, both online and offline. I would start with…

ALICE KIRBY Director of Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing

Do follow your client journey around the salon to see where you could improve and sharpen things up, even if you think you’re doing it right.

Do use a joined-up approach by putting the same messages out across your social media, website, emails, posters and so on.

Do update your website – it’s crucial for Google rankings.

1

Seasonal events – Are there any fun promotions you might like to run and tie into a calendar event?

If you have an idea of the content you want to create, this will guide you throughout the year. For example, you could offer a free moustache trim for anyone getting their hair cut who is growing a ‘tache for Movember.

Don’t get distracted by shiny new schemes – ensure you have the basics right, such as good customer service.

Don’t solely rely on automated marketing software – make sure you are offering a personalised customer service.

2

Digital activities– Are you considering videos, stories or sharing client testimonials? Encouraging and having the latter means clients are creating valuable content for you.

Don’t underestimate good oldfashioned face-to-face contact with clients, or asking for feedback in person.

Don’t underestimate the power of in-salon marketing, such as posters and flyers, to highlight events or promotions or products.

3

Offline activity – Are you planning any advertising, attending events or holding an event yourself?

Download the NHBF marketing calendar for 2023 to help plan your social media and marketing events: nhbf.co.uk/marketing-calendar

RESOURCES

NHBF Salon marketing plan guide: nhbf.co.uk/marketing-guide

NHBF blog – How to use marketing effectively?: nhbf.co.uk/effective-marketing

NHBF digital marketing director

71% OF CUSTOMERS WHO HAVE A GOOD EXPERIENCE WITH A BRAND VIA SOCIAL MEDIA ARE LIKELY TO RECOMMEND IT

It can seem that people are now too busy to research hair and beauty services properly. Clients increasingly turn up to appointments for even the most invasive procedures without having put in the groundwork. A recent survey concluded that they should spend three hours or more reading up on salons, staff, treatments and products before booking an invasive or clinical procedure – but in some cases, they’re simply picking the cheapest provider.

Whether they have done their research or not, spending time with clients before appointments ensures you are aligned with what they want.

NHBF director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey explains: ‘Failure to carry out a thorough consultation leads to unhappy clients, unexpected outcomes, potential complaints and even legal action.’

Honest talk

‘Hair stylists and beauty therapists should be pointing out issues,’ says industry consultant Hellen Ward from Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa. ‘People don’t like to say, “Your scalp is slightly flaky, were you aware of that?”, but we need to discuss the elephant in the room and tell a client with empathy about concerns

we notice in their skin. They’ve come to see you because they want to get a result and they want professional advice – and they won’t get it unless you discuss what is wrong beforehand.’

Hellen has a ‘consultation checklist’ on her website that explains her services in detail, and clients are asked to read it before their in-person consultation. ‘Clients often muddle results-driven treatments and holistic services, so giving them this information beforehand helps us to define what they’re after,’ she says.

Hellen’s therapists spend 15 to 20 minutes talking to clients during a consultation, and are never afraid to be honest. ‘The client is asking for our advice, so it has to be a cohesive conversation where there are many questions asked,’ she explains.

Ticking the box

With invasive treatments increasing in popularity, it is helpful to send clients away with information leaflets to give them extra time to think before a procedure. It’s also important to remember that consultations aren’t just for new clients.

‘We do an MOT-style check every six to seven treatments with regular clients and run back over everything,’ says Hellen. ‘We have a debrief and discuss their thoughts on the results and how they feel about the treatments. A consultation is a box you constantly have to re-tick. Problems only occur when not enough time has been spent on a pre or post-service consultation and the treatment hasn’t been prescribed or diagnosed accordingly.’

HOW DO YOU DO IT?

‘THREE-SNAP STRATEGY’

Louise Howard-Long, salon director at Architect hair salon in Leeds, has a ‘three picture’ strategy for consultations. Clients are invited to bring three images into the salon that show their ideal cut or colour.

‘We find having three pictures helps us to identify exactly what they want, as often people pick a pretty person with hair they don’t have!’ Louise says. ‘By having three pictures, you can start to identify what they’re after. For example, I’ll say, “Actually, that one is a lot warmer than that one. This one has a strong face frame, so it’s quite pale around the front, while this one doesn’t.” Having three pictures ties the client and us down to what they want, and we can then move on to what is achievable.’

However, she stresses: ‘The pictures are a part of a longer process and conversation that helps us to understand what our clients want, and allows us to talk through any contra-indications that may arise. A consultation is just as educational for the client as it is for us.’

‘DON’T RUSH’

Charlie Cullen, art director at Joe & Co barbershop in London, specialises in long hair. His consultations take place at the beginning of his appointments.

‘I’ll always sit the client in the mirror but tend to approach them front on,’ he says. ‘Not everyone feels comfortable looking through a mirror, so I engage in eye contact straight away to put clients at ease. Once I’ve heard their initial ideas, I go round and inspect the hair and talk through the mirror a bit more.’

Charlie never shampoos a client’s hair before a consultation. ‘You need to see the hair in its natural state, otherwise you won’t see any problems or their dislikes. I ask questions about their routine and which products they use, but I never use technical jargon. I use simplistic terms that they’re going to understand.

‘We have 45 minutes to cut but I’m often running late because I don’t rush consultations. They’re so important because they mean everyone is happy.’

THEY’VE COME TO SEE YOU BECAUSE THEY WANT TO GET A RESULT AND THEY WANT PROFESSIONAL ADVICE”

Dotting the i’s It is crucial to work through your legal checklist during all consultations. For instance: Have allergy aware and skin tests been carried out? Have healthcare questionnaires and consultation forms been signed? Have contra-indications been checked?

Does the client need parental consent?

The NHBF provides Members with Allergy Alert and Industry Test Record cards for noting down this important information. They come in digital and paper form and must be signed by the client or legal guardian. The NHBF also offers beauty members a Consultations and Industry Tests Toolkit, complete with GPDR-compliant healthcare questionnaires and consultation forms.

Caroline is also the NHBF mediator for the

Alternative Disputes Resolutions Centre. ‘With any complaint, the first thing I do is go back to say: “Did you complete a record card? Did you get the client’s consent? Did you take a before and after photograph?” They’re vital,’ she says.

A client’s personal data is best stored on an NHBF Confidential Client Information Record card. These are also GDPR-compliant and come in digital and paper form.

Consultations are also the perfect time to check a client’s information is up to date, including emergency contact numbers. ‘If a salon is using hard copy cards, they should be stored away from the shop floor to ensure confidentiality,’ says Caroline.

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YOUR CONSULTATION CHECKLIST

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RESOURCES

• NHBF blog– The importance of client consultations: nhbf.co.uk/ client-consultation

• NHBF Allergy alert testing protocols: nhbf.co.uk/protocols

• NHBF Guide to consultation, allergy alert and industry tests: nhbf.co.uk/allergy-guide

• NHBF Consultation and industry test toolkit (for beauty): nhbf.co.uk/ beauty-allergy-kit

THEY’VE COME TO SEE YOU BECAUSE THEY WANT PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

FASHIONABLE OR A FAUX PAS?

SKIN CYCLING

Whether you embrace them or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.

NEW YEAR NAILS

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This skincare trend has well and truly taken off, with more than 3.5 billion views for skin cycling videos on TikTok and more than 142.3 million views of the hashtag #skincycling. While the term was coined by dermatologist Dr Whitney Bowe, many skin and beauty experts have been quick to point out that this ‘new’ trend is actually just new terminology for a tried and tested rotational skincare regime – something that skincare professionals have been recommending for years. Skin cycling, according to Dr Bowe, focuses on alternating active ingredients (exfoliating acids and retinoids) every few nights, adding in two ‘recovery’ days, to balance out and protect the skin throughout the week. Have you had clients ask you about this yet?

REPORT

SKIN DEEP BEAUTY REPORT 2022

Sustainability marketing and software company Provenance surveyed 1500 beauty consumers from the UK, US and Germany to find out what they expect when it comes to sustainability.

According to nail artists Bryony Howell and Alice McNails, shades of green and feature nails are set to be popular. Bryony says: ‘Green is having a real moment and is going to continue to be popular all winter – Bottega [Veneta] green, sage, khaki and earthy green tones are the favourites!’

Alicesays: ‘Customers are feeling a little less sparkly after the festive season, so we’re going to be seeing feature nails, rather than a whole manicure. This trend takes two nails, usually the index and middle finger and features small detailing on a plain base, such as chrome stars or initial detailing.’ She adds that autumn hues such as toffee, caramel, spicy reds, reddish browns and heather green are going to be popular all winter.

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Alice reveals that people are loving 3D nails, too. ‘This trend comes from South Korea and is going to be huge. It involves sculpting organic shapes, blobs and textures out of gel clay – it’s a little out there but my customers are loving it.’

9out of 10

beauty and wellness consumers believe sustainability and ethics-related considerations are important when buying products

<25%

strongly agree that the beauty industry is transparent on sustainability

HAIR INSPO

FUTURE FORECAST

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Mintel has released its global consumer trends report 2023, highlighting what’s new in consumer behaviour, and how businesses can align themselves with the changing landscape over the next five years. The trends include:

‘Me Mentality’, which suggests consumers will be eager to re-focus on themselves – and brands can help them take centre stage.

In the ‘Power to the People’ trend, brands and businesses will have to make room for consumers who are investing, co-creating and voting for change alongside brands.

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‘Hyper Fatigue’ indicates that consumers will try to cut through the noise and connect with what matters to them.

‘International Localism’ suggests that buying local will be a way for consumers to protect themselves financially, environmentally and psychologically and feel they are giving back.

Finally, ‘Intentional Spending’ predicts that factors including flexibility, durability and sustainability will play increasingly important roles in consumers’ value equation.

Find out more about these consumer and business trend predictions at mintel.com/global-consumer-trends

8 out of 10

beauty consumers have doubts about whether to trust the industry’s sustainability claims

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According to Cloud Nine’s #HairTok report, claw clips were 2022’s must-have hair accessory, with 1.3 billion TikTok views and 141k Instagram searches in the UK alone. Meanwhile, heatless curl methods (from dressing gown ties to socks) were a top viral hairstyle hack. Are you prepared for 2023’s hair trends? Keeping an eye out could help commercially if you can give clients the cut they didn’t know they needed… According to the catwalk reports, this winter we need to be thinking Birkin bangs (the light, eyebrow-grazing fringe popularised by Jane Birkin in the 1960s), butterfly cuts, Botticelli waves and glazed doughnut hair (slick and shiny hair that practically glistens). And the side part is making a(nother) comeback, seen on models at various fashion shows – highlighting it’s not so ‘cheugy’ (’not trendy’ in Generation Z terminology) anymore.

FINANCIALLY INCLUSIVE BEAUTY

Several surveys and reports have highlighted a trend for consumers demanding fairer and more honest pricing when it comes to beauty products and services. Findings from Beauty Pie and The Future Laboratory’s The Beauty Futures 2025: Beauty, Beautility and the Rise of the ‘Question Everything’ Economy reportsuggest that ‘people are now looking for experiences, services and products that help them become better versions of themselves’, with consumers turning away from wanting to be ‘sold’ overpriced products that aren’t inclusive.

of respondents in their late teens and early 20s say that ethicsrelated considerations are very important when buying beauty and wellness products – twice as many as those aged 55+

said showing a full list of ingredients would win their confidence in believing that a sustainability claim is accurate and true

USE APPS TO IMPROVE YOUR BUSINESS

Paul Hopkins, salon software expert and co-founder of Zolmi, explains how apps can help you manage your many roles.

Running a salon or barbershop means juggling many roles – from marketing to stocktaking and finances. Apps that can automate or simplify these competing time pressures will free you up to focus on the parts of your business you love.

All businesses can benefit from using apps, says Paul. ‘Whether you’re running a two-person shop or a multi-chain salon, at the end of the day you’re trying to give the best customer experience. That’s what apps can support.’ Here’s Paul’s advice.

1 GET REAL-TIME INSIGHT

Managing your business from your phone means having insight 24/7. This allows you to be more productive and make the right decisions to manage and grow your business. Elements you can handle through apps include accounting, client bookings, marketing, payments and staff rotas.

2 BUILD IN DOWN-TIME

This technology at your fingertips is amazing, but don’t become obsessed. Looking at your statistics at midnight isn’t going to change anything. Allocate time once a day to go through your apps and deal with management –for example, responding to Google reviews and Instagram comments.

3WATCH YOUR MONEY Costs are important. There are free apps to help every business, and apps can help you track your money in many ways. For example, an inventory app can send you an alert to reorder when stock gets low. In turn, you’re not holding on to a lot of stock: you don’t want 100 bottles of shampoo in the stockroom because that’s money sitting there, gathering dust.

AUTOMATE FEEDBACK

About 15 years ago, when I was partner in awardwinning hair salon Taylor Taylor in Shoreditch, we used to download customer email addresses and send out a survey link to get feedback. Apps can do this for you: instead of having to trawl through addresses, you can select the people that have given you a high score and ask them to leave a Google review.

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CUSTOMER DATA IS KING

Data security is becoming more important. Storing customer data in the cloud – a secure online environment accessed through an app – will help you run a tighter data privacy business. And when you’re switching apps, think: is the customer my customer or am I sharing them with the marketplace? Some client-facing apps could be using your customers’ data –contacting them and advertising your competitors.

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TOP TIPS AT-A-GLANCE

• Stick with apps you find intuitive.

• Focus on growing your own profile, rather than relying on client-facing marketplace apps.

• Consider data privacy and scrutinise how apps store your customers’ data.

• Choose an app with good business support.

• Read app reviews and ask industry friends for recommendations.

START NOW BUT START SLOWLY

If you’re changing from a paper system to a salon app, first get all your information onto spreadsheets and your clients in a list. Then plan a slow transition. Don’t think, ‘Tomorrow I have to move everything across’ – you could have hundreds of future appointments. Instead, plan a cut-off date, where anything booked in after then will be entered into the new booking system.

LEADING INDUSTRY APPS

All-in-one packages

• Zolmi, Phorest, iSalon and Shortcuts handle many aspects of your business, including bookings, staff rotas, appointment reminders and customer feedback.

Marketing and social media

• Canva is a free graphic design tool

• Google Business Profile allows you to list your business on Google Maps and get customer reviews

• Instagram – remember to use a business account for extra functions such as promoting services and products.

Inventory

• Sortly, Inventory Now, Delivrd and Boxstorm all keep track of products.

Accounting

• QuickBooks, Sage and Expensify track your expenses and can generate reports

• FreshBooks and Xero create and track invoices.

Insight and handy helpers

• NHBF for advice, membership and industry news

• Trello to create shared to-do lists

• Jotform to generate forms and documents with templates

• Shopify’s point of sale software turns your smartphone into a card reader to accept payments.

VICKI JOHNSON

The first winner of Channel 4’s The Big Blow Out shares her experience on the show and the creativity it sparked within her.

Never ever did I think that… I would actually get onto the show to take part. I applied because I thought it sounded like fun and would be a chance to explore a different avenue of the industry [styling hair].

My clients were amazing… I was having to cancel them week by week as I stayed on in the competition – I didn’t want to be presumptuous and cancel everyone in one go! They were so supportive of me.

The experience unleashed… a creative side that I didn’t realise I had. And

to be mentored by Sam McKnight and Lisa Pharrell was so special. Their critiques – the good, the bad and the ugly – were invaluable. They really helped me grow and progress throughout the competition.

competitions and apply. It pushes you out of your comfort zone and gets the creative juices flowing. You also meet some incredible people and do some incredible things.

ALL ABOUT VICKI

Owns: The Grove Studio in Wadebridge, Cornwall Speciality: Colour Follow: @vikiscissorhands

My favourite look I created was… my ‘Ram’ – I live on a working farm, and when I’m not hairdressing I’m lambing, so it was really important to show first-hand my inspiration for that hair style.

I’ve learnt how resilient I am… I’ve realised that for years, because I mostly do colour, I have slotted myself into a little box of ‘I’m a colourist’. It wasn’t until this competition and pushing myself out of ‘just being a colourist’ that I realised I’m other things too. It has been a big realisation that you can be passionate about one aspect but dabble in others as well.

I wholeheartedly recommend that others take part in these

I started out my career studying art... then I wanted to be a tattooist. But because that industry was difficult to get into at the time, I thought I needed to do something that was creative and fun, and my mum suggested hairdressing. I never looked back.

I love the creative freedom of what I do... I love that no day is the same. It’s just magic to make people feel great about themselves all the time. Becoming a salon owner was also the best decision I’ve ever made.

2023 is about continuing my work... with Redken, Manic Panic and Olaplex. And then seeing what the universe aligns for me – I’m going to go with it and keep my choices open!