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DECEMBER 2020
COMMUNE Commune is a regular digital newsletter produced by Neill Wine an independent importer of natural wines, craft beers and spirits from passionate, quality focused producers.
CHRISTMAS FOOD PAIRINGS | BEHIND BORDEAUX | BRILLIANT BALBIANO | LET’S GET FIZZYCAL
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THREE GENERATIONS CELEBRATE IN STYLE! Mrs Barbara Gass celebrating her 100th Birthday with her daughter, our former colleague Valerie, on the right and Valerie’s daughter and our current colleague, Karen on the left.
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A VERY HAPPY CHRISTMAS TO ALL OUR FRIENDS
Welcome to our third, festive edition of Commune. What a year it’s been! None of us could have known this time last year, what lay ahead. And although we can’t pretend that it hasn’t been challenging, coming up to Christmas, we’d prefer to focus on the positives. In these extraordinary circumstances, we’d like to celebrate the strength, dedication and resilience of the many people we are fortunate to work with. That includes our staff, suppliers, customers and business connections. We sincerely thank you one and all. The support and loyalty that we have witnessed is truly humbling. During the first lockdown when our shops were closed we dedicated ourselves to Call A Cave our home delivery service and we were taken aback by the support we received, ensuring that our business continued to operate. When we reopened we were delighted to welcome back old friends and new customers alike. We’ve also worked hard to ensure that our customers are well informed about the amazing products we offer. With the most dedicated and passionate suppliers we are determined to provide a service which means that whatever your budget or knowledge of wine, we’ll find you an outstanding, great value and unique bottle. This year, perhaps more than any other, we’ve researched, evaluated and imported hundreds of new and exciting wines that add something extra and different to our range. During a time of uncertainty we are also delighted to see that there is a growing appreciation of local suppliers. Community, friendship and supporting local businesses is what we, at Neill Wine are all about. Finally we’d like to wish everyone a very Happy Christmas and a healthy and prosperous 2021.
Robert & Team Neill Wine
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WHAT WE’RE DRINKING THIS CHRISTMA S
Complete with our suggestions for food pairings
SIMONSIG CUVEE ROYALE BLANC DE BLANC 2014
Stellenbosch, S.Africa|75cl| £19.50 This rare luxury cuvée, at a giveaway price, represents the finest 100% Chardonnay Traditional Method sparkling wine produced anywhere outside of the Champagne region. The balance of refined acidity, creamy textured mousse and sublime flavour is simply sensational.
DOMAINE METZ PINOT GRIS 2014
Alsace, France|75cl| £14.95 This fairy-tale wine region does give the title of “alternative” as well as a range of varietal wines that offer so much purity as well as thrilling drinking. Of the range of “noble varietals” produced in Alsace, Pinot Gris is by far the King. Concentrated aromatics of citrus cordial, mineral and appealing structure.
GHIGA ULTIMO GRAPPOLO PASSITO DI MOSCATO
Asti, Langhe Hills, Piemonte, North West Italy|50cl| £18.95 The Castiglione Tinella area around the town of Asti is home to the best Moscato grapes grown anywhere. This sweet wine is made from the Passito method or natural drying of the grape bunches. Offering impeccable exotic fruit laced acidity, combined with the sweet liqueur that is so appealing that words cannot describe! Only 1000 half bottles produced!
Perfect aperitif or with cured salmon.
Excellent with shellfish or seafood pasta.
Unreal with hard cheeses, fruit salads or quality dry biscuits.
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A SELECTION OF OUR FE STIVE FAVO URITE S Outstanding wines to accompany whatever you’re serving
MOULIN DE GASSAC ALBARAN 2018 GRAND TERROIRS
IGP Pays d’ Herault, Languedoc, France|75cl| £11.95 From the estate’s “Grand Terroirs” range combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon 40% Syrah. An appealing rustic character with ageing in cask for 8-9 months. Scents of vanilla, cassis & subtle spice. Very juicy with the enriched cassis characters dominating.
Ideal with cured ham or turkey.
CANTINE TORRI BAKAN MONTEPULCIANO D’ ABRUZZO DOCG 2015
Abruzzo, Italy |75cl| £15.50 One of the very rare DOCG Montepulciano to be produced. Made from 100% Montepulciano grapes grown within the renowned Colline Teramane hence the status of DOCG. At 300 meters altitude this area is well positioned with a direct southern exposure. The resulting wines offer amazing intensity of raspberry liqueur and refreshing elegance due to the cool high altitude viticulture. A firm favourite with our private customers.
Superb with duck and gamebird.
BODEGAS MONTEGAREDO CRIANZA 2016
Ribera del Duero, Spain|75cl| £15.95 100% Tempranillo of sheer class. With our years of wine tasting experience this impeccable wine ranks comfortably within the “world class” category. Intense in colour, aroma & flavour. A detailed profile offers a marked mineral character infused with crushed black and blue berries. Dark chocolate, violet and the most amazing bringing together of structure, intensity and elegance.
Pair with the finest aged rib of beef you can source, only from an independent butcher.
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V I S I T A V I N E YA R D | M E E T O U R SU P P L I E R S
BALBIANO THE CRADLE OF FREISA Azienda Vitivinicola Balbiano | Wine growing on Turin’s hills The Balbiano Winery, was founded in 1941, by Melchiorre Balbiano and for seventy-five years it’s been the reference point for the production of Freisa of Chieri. In 2003 the company took on the ambitious project to restore the Villa della Regina in Turin, devoting itself to replanting the sixteenth century vineyard.
The vineyard, which commands stunning views overlooking Piazza Vittorio Veneto and the Gran Madre di Dio, finally went into production in 2008. Today Luca Balbiano continues the family tradition, producing unique and outstanding wine featuring the Freisa grape in an idyllic setting.
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The Balbiano Winery was officially founded on September 14th, 1941, when Andezeno’s mayor released to Melchiorre Balbiano the first wholesale wine and grapes permit. Melchiorre, before deciding to make wine, was a busy farm manager in Andezeno. Corn, wheat, cornmeal, cattle, and poultry were his daily activity. However, his greatest passion was the grape. The early ’40s were a difficult period, the war decimated the city and the countryside, the food (and wine) were rationed. The postwar period was a time of great economic revival, but above all it was the time when Melchiorre met Giuseppina Villa, a young girl from Turin who soon became his wife. From their love were born Carla and, in 1948, Francesco Balbiano. The Villa family always lived in Turin, but with a few properties in the countryside, in the area of Andezeno. Their original farm was to become the current site of the Balbiano Winery. Francesco was a studious and disciplined child. He attended the college in Chieri, then the High School and finally earned a degree in chemistry. Meanwhile he helped his father in the daily work of a winery, learning the job “in the field”. In 1973, after graduation, he was at a crossroads: to continue his career as a chemist or go into his father’s business? The choice was the natural result of what Francesco loved most of all: the land and its traditions. This love was also expressed in his social commitment. He has been the youngest mayor of Andezeno for three legislatures.
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A SELECTION OF THE WINES PRODUCED BY AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA BALBIANO 1. BALBIANO COLLINA TORINESE BARBERA 2018|100% Bonarda |£14.95 Serve with salami, cheese, meat, appetisers and main courses. Good with steaks. 2. BALBIANO SURPREISA FREISA DI CHIERI |100% Freisa |£14.95 Typical still and easy drinking wine. Salamis, meat and main courses. 3. BALBIANO COLLINA TORINESE BONARDA DOC 2018 |100% Bonarda|£14.95 Typical still and easy drinking wine. Salamis, meat and main courses. 4. BALBIANO MALVASIA DI CASTELNUOVO |100% Malvasia di Schierano |£15.50 Perfect with pastries, biscuits, cakes and sweet desserts 5. BALBIANO FREISA DI CHIERI VIGNA VILLA DELLA REGINA DOC 2015 100% Freisa | £30.00 A breath of history. Perfect with spicy meat course, meat (especially game) and cheese courses. 6. BALBIANO GRAPPA VILLA DELLA REGINA | 100% Freisa | £45.00 Amber colour. Complex, full and enveloping bouquet. Soft and rich flavor. Limited production.
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The investment required for the company was huge and to finance it, Francesco began an export adventure in the United States. He didn’t stay away from home for long though and returned to marry Daniela. They have three children Luca, Chiara and Elena. The company’s production also extends to all the wines of the province of Turin, in the form of the Collina Torinese Bonarda, Collina Torinese Barbera, the Collina Torinese Cari and Malvasia of Castelnuovo Don Bosco. A nineteenth century farmhouse, renovated in order to accommodate the winery production and ageing cellar is emblematic of the company’s motto: “New technologies in the service and respect of tradition”. In 2003, the Balbiano Company took on the ambitious project to restore the Villa della Regina in Turin, devoting itself to replanting the sixteenth century vineyard. The vineyard, which enjoys a unique view, finally went into production in 2008, with about 10
quintals of grapes (95% Freisa). In 2009 the vineyard produced about 50 quintals of grapes which gave birth to a wine called “Vigna della Regina”, officially launched on April 13, 2011. In 2009 only 3600 bottles were produced. The 2011 vintage, Queen’s Villa wine is a DOC wine: Freisa di Chieri DOC “Vigna Villa della Regina”. Even more rare and even more unique. After graduating with an honours degree in law from the University of Turin, Luca, Francesco’s son, followed the family tradition becoming the third generation of producers. In 2015 Luca became the new President of the Freisa di Chieri and Collina Torinese DOC Consortium, the youngest in the Consortium’s history. He is also vice-president of Enoteca Regionale dei Vini della Provincia di Torino as his father was before him. History, as is often the case, repeats itself.
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A F E W W O R D S A B O U T | B O R D E AUX
BORDEAUX The story behind the world’s most famous wine region
The vineyards and the wines of Bordeaux are the world’s most well-known. Helped due to the region’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean via the deep wide Gironde estuary that allowed merchant ships to tie up along the busy quays within what was and still is a vibrant city.
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Historically, merchant ships from all over the world would bring their various cargos in exchange for precious barrels of highly sought after wine. In general the wines would travel well and due to the sheer size of production of even the most prized names, there was plenty to go around. Bordeaux in particular is renowned for deeply coloured, immensely structured red wines of great aromatic and flavour appeal. Made from blends dominated either of, in most part, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Globally acclaimed commune & chateau names set the scene through the terminology of what is referred to as the “left bank” and “right bank” of the Gironde River.
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Let’s explain further. The French for centuries have had a love affair of matching plant material to the correct soil type, getting down and dirty you could say! On the left bank of the Gironde and, to the south west limits of the City and just beyond it, you will find the great gravel laced soils. Providing essential natural drainage, which is key as the region has a strong maritime climate with reasonable rain fall and this environment is ideal for a hardy vine, in fact, the hardiest of them all, the Cabernet Sauvignon.
Right Bank Bordeaux
Now over to the right bank where clay & limestone soils dominate. Here Merlot takes to the stage performing the most powerful and seductive of charms. The soils here are termed as cooler than those on the left bank, therefore a vine that ripens earlier but is also hardy is required, and Merlot ticks all the natural requirements. Two communes in particular stand out. The acclaimed Saint Emilion and Pomerol. The latter home to the world’s and some of France’s most sought after and priceless wine labels. The right bank boasts more Côtes Here this prolific vine yields fruit of serious quality that (slopes) which allows for the natural drainage, the dominates the blend of the vast majority of the left bank wines. And the deeper and more concentrated the single most fundamental influence in the production of great wine. gravel the better the resulting wine from communes whose names grace the labels along with the Chateau Serious value to be had name. Bordeaux can boast an array of dedicated wine growers Left Bank Bordeaux from thirty seven communes. Even when you explore the lesser known communes, as we do at Neill Wine, Communal names such as Graves and in particular its you will find a lot of wines that are given the same sibling Pessac-Leognan are prized vineyards within the attention to detail from vineyard to bottle as the most city limits. Further north into the Medoc peninsula prized labels. Here prices are poles apart but the gap in where you will find the communes of Margaux, Saint Julian, Pauillac & Saint Estephe that hug their way along quality level is not so wide! the Gironde and what is geographically wine termed as Haut Medoc and just Medoc as the gravel wains the further north you go. And also worth seeking out, wines from the communes of Moulis & Listrac more inland from the river, still nestled in the Medoc peninsula.
GRAPES As well as Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot the region also grows Malbec, Cabernet Franc & Petite Verdot. Having five black grapes for your red wine acts as “production insurance” against the weather elements as they all ripen at different times. WHITE WINES The region is also home to so many dry white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. From the crisp and refreshing to those that are aged in new oak barriques and require up to ten years bottle age to unlock their greatness. DESSERT WINES Bordeaux is also famous for the world’s most famous sweet or dessert wine from the communes of Sauternes & Barsac due to one of the most fascinating elements of Nature’s effect on wine quality and style. The cool springfed Ciron River flows close to the vineyards. When it meets the warmer waters of the Gironde, during late summer and autumn, this creates mists which roll on to the vineyards causing Botrytis Cinerea (Noble Rot) to form on the grapes. A slow microscopic process follows causing dehydration and concentration of sugars - the raw material for the world’s greatest sweet wines.
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Mists descend on the vineyards of Sauternes & Barsac
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1 (Bas) Médoc
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2 St. Estèphe
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4 Saint-Julien
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LESPARRE-MEDOC
5 Haut-Médoc
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DORDOGNE
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BLAYE 6
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30 34
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GIRONDE
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LIBOURNE
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26 24
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LANGON
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23 St. Emilion 24 Côtes de Castillon 25 Puisseguin-St-Emilion
9 Pessac-Léognan
27 St-Georges-St-Emilion
10 Graves
28 Montagne-St-Emilion
11 Premières Côtes de Bordeaux
29 Lussac-St-Emilion
13 Loupiac 14 Cérons
17 Ste-Croix-Du-Mont
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22 Ste-Foy-Bordeaux
26 Bordeaux-Côtes de Francs
16 Sauternes
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21 Entre-Deux-Mers
8 Margaux
15 Barsac
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7 Moulis
12 Cadillac
BORDEAUX 9
6 Listrac
20 Bordeaux et EntreDeux-Mers-Haut-Benauge
18 Bordeaux 19 Côtes de BordeauxSt-Macaire
30 Bordeaux 31 Pomerol 32 Lalande-de-Pomerol 33 Canon-Fronsac 34 Fronsac 35 Graves-de-Vayres 36 Côtes de Bourg 37 Côtes et Premières Côtes de Blaye
LEFT BANK Cabernet Sauvignon dominated blends
RIGHT BANK Merlot dominated blends
Commune: Cussac, Haut Medoc, this little commune situated between Margaux & Saint Julian deserves special attention. Though the wines cannot be termed as Cussac, instead just Haut Medoc on the label, this needs to and has to change. The gravel is deeper here than most of the other vineyards within the sprawling Haut Medoc area and the resulting wines have a particular quality and style identity all of their own!!
Commune: Blaye, Cotes de Bordeaux. This area hugs the Gironde River along its right bank and has a rich Roman history. As well as great views of the estuary it is worth seeking out the charms of its wines that have improved significantly over the past few decades. Soils are quite varied but most of the wines do have a remarkable softness combined with depth that allows for earlier drinking between three and eight years from the harvest. Deeply coloured they provide that certain aromatic and flavour seductiveness that are the hallmark of great Bordeaux.
Here are some of our established favourites which we highly recommend... 4.
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LEFT BANK 1. CHATEAU TOUR DU HAUT-MOULIN 2011 | £22.50 (16.5 / 20 – Jancis Robinson) 2012 | £22.50 (89+ / 100 – The Wine Advocate Robert Parker) 2017 | £18.95 2. CHATEAU DE LAUGA 2017 | £15.95 (Gold Medal Paris) 3. CHATEAU DE LAUGA GRANDE PIERRE 2015 | £22.50 (Gold Medal Paris) RIGHT BANK 4. CHATEAU DU VIEUX PUIT 2015 | £10.75 5. CHATEAU HAUT PERDRIAS 2015 | £10.75 6. CHATEAU CLOS DE LOUP 2015 | £15.95
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C H A M P A G N E & S P A R K L I N G W I N E | OUR TOP TEN CHOICES
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PROSECCO 1. CASA GHELLER PROSECCO SUPERIORE VALDOBBIADENE DOCG NV Veneto, Italy | Grape variety: Glera | 11% | £13.95 CAVA 2. NAVERAN BRUT NATURE 2017
Penedes, Spain | Grape Varieties: Macabeu, Xarel·lo, Chardonnay, Parellada 12% | £13.95 3. NAVERAN DAMA 2013
Penedes, Spain |Grape Varieties: Chardonnay Parellada | 12%| £14.95 4. NAVERAN PERLES ROSES 2011
Penedes, Spain | Grape Varieties: Pinot Noir 12.5% | £21.95 SOUTH AFRICA 5. SIMONSIG ESTATE CUVEE ROYAL BLANC DE BLANC 2014
Stellenbosch, South Africa Grape Varieties: Chardonnay | 12% | £19.50 6. SIMONSIG ESTATE KAAPSE VONKEL BRUT 2015 MAGNUM
Stellenbosch, South Africa | Grape Varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier 12% | £32.50 CHAMPAGNE 7. PHILIPPE GONET BRUT RESERVE NV
à Le Mesnil sur Oger, France | Grape Varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier 12% | £36.50 8. ARNAUD MOREAU ROSE GRAND CRU NV
Bouzy, France | Grape Varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay | 12% | £45.00 9. ARNAUD MOREAU ERYNN BLANC DE BLANC GRAND CRU 2016
Bouzy, France | Grape Variety: Chardonnay 12% | £57.50 10. ARNAUD MOREAU CUVEE PHOENIX BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND CRU NV
Bouzy, France | Grape Variety: Pinot Noir 12% | £48.00
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W H E R E W E A R E | G RO O M S P O RT & H E L E N ’ S B AY We’re closed at the moment but when we re-open we’d be delighted to see you
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