Taste Magazine Scotland Winter 2021/22 Edition by Taste Magazine Scotland

WINTER EDITION

EXCLUSIVE Why Gordon Ramsay chose Edinburgh for his new restaurant’s home

WHISKY! WHISKY! WHISKY!

Our guide to the season’s favourite drink

THE GREAT SCOTTISH FOOD (& DRINK) REVIVAL The produce, the products - and the people

The Hebridean Baker | Recipes | News | Reviews | Interviews

Publisher’s Letter

The festive season returns! It’s certainly been an emotional time for us all over the past few months as we see the food, drink and hospitality industries begin to flourish once again. As we head into the festive season we encourage readers to seek out Scottish produce and ingredients when doing their festive shopping and supporting our hospitality industry. We welcome Stephanie Abbot, Jonathan Mack, and Annabel Mackie to our team along with renowned whisky writer, Gavin Smith and one of Scotland’s most respected food and drink writers, Cate Devine. Also joining us as a new regular columnist is Gary

Maclean, National Chef of Scotland and the MasterChef: The Professionals Champion 2016. Our team is certainly developing in the right direction and this will help us shape a publication that Scotland can be extremely proud of. Don’t forget to check out the new competition page, our new Distillery Spotlight and an exclusive interview with Chef Gordon Ramsay who returns to Scotland to open Bread Street Kitchen & Bar in Edinburgh.

Sean McMahon Publisher

Taste Magazine Scotland is brought to you by Editorial

Production

Contributors: Rosalind Erskine, Morag Bootland, Mhairi Clarke, Tara Hepburn, Amy Middleton, Sonny Neil, Kaitlyn Chatwood, Sean McMahon, Gavin Smith, Cate Devine, Stephanie Abbot.

Designers: Portia Keltie, Michael Burns. Sub-Editor: Annabel Mackie. Digital: Lydia Forrest, Jonathan Mack. Photography: Lewis Lach, Diana Firląg. Publishers: Sean McMahon, Paul Mulligan.

Columnists: Gary Maclean, Coinneach MacLeod.

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Taste Magazine Scotland is published by Taste Scotland Ltd, Office 1, Technology House, 9 Newton Place, Glasgow, G3 7PR. Registered in Scotland with Companies House: SC667390. All rights reserved. This publication cannot be reproduced or transmitted in any form, in whole or part, without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in Taste Magazine Scotland are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.

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Inside this Issue FEATURES

8 10 15

Pies, Glorious Pies

It’s the run-up to the Scotch Pie Awards

‘Tis The Season For A Dram

Renowned whisky writer Gavin Smith highlights some perfect tipples for Hogmanay and Burns Night

Scottish Smokehouses

Discover more about the past and present Scottish smoked fish industry

Festive Hampers

Match Made In Heaven

Alive & Cooking

Ramsay Goes Under The Grill

Road Trip To Fife

An enticing look at what should be on your shopping list this festive season

We take Scotland’s oldest working brewery on a food pairing journey

Spotlight on the Scottish Food & Drink Scene

Exclusive interview with Chef Gordon Ramsay on his return to Scotland

We take a three-day foodie tour in the Kingdom of Fife

REGULARS

6 36 39 41 48 53 57 62 66

Our National Chef

Chef Gary Maclean joins Taste Magazine as a regular columnist

Destination Dining

Let’s get in the party mood with a look at Scotland’s most festive eateries

Distillery Spolight

Take a tour around Bonnington Distillery to discover some history in the making

Recipes

Six recipes to keep you going through to Burns Night!

In Season

A look at seasonal produce

Scottish Larder

Food and drink ideas from Scottish producers

Hopitality Reviews

We visit venues in Fife, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Luss

Hold the Front Page!

Our top picks from the latest food, drink and hospitality news

The Hebridean Baker

Celebrating Hogmanay on The Outer Hebrides

Chef’s Hat

Gary Maclean A familiar face on the Scottish food scene, the multi-award winning chef Gary McClean has many accolades under his belt including winner of the MasterChef: The Professionals Champion 2016, being appointed Scotland’s first National Chef and Chef Patron on the new Creel Caught restaurant in Edinburgh. This month he adds Taste Magazine columnist to his many roles… Welcome to my regular column at Taste. For my first instalment I thought that I would try and demystify the role of National Chef of Scotland. This, as far as I know, is the first time a country has nominated a National Chef and, in true Scottish style, when it was first announced social media erupted asking if we should have a national plumber or car mechanic!

I was first asked in 2017 if I would be interested in taking up this new Government role, I first spoke about it with the amazing food writer Cate Devine. I thought that the position would go to one of Scotland’s superstars, but I was honoured and surprised to be asked. I was sent the remit from the team at the Scottish Government that, if I remember rightly, was about six pages long. What I homed in on was food education and food insecurity.

“My ultimate goal is that every child in Scotland gets a solid education in food and cookery from primary school right through to high school” start in life and who are disengaged with education and life in general. I have seen some of the so-called bad kids excel in the kitchen. My objective is not to recruit for the hospitality industry but to share my experience and story with them and, hopefully, inspire them to find what they are passionate about and follow their dreams. Young people don´t get a chance to escape their lives and engage in something completely different. I would say over the years I have spent most of my time working with people who really need a boost and a chance in life. I have had days in every level of our education system from nursery schools to universities to teach and showcase the world of food. I love to do hands-on cookery lessons and I have had kids as young as three or four getting involved with food. My ultimate goal is that every child in Scotland gets a solid education in food and cookery from primary school right through to high school. I believe that this would go a long way in helping with our nation’s health issues and also will help with our climate goals. I also think with good food education it will help the food and hospitality industry. My food journey started with an amazing home economics teacher who opened up the world of food to me. Another thing that I have done over the years is to support our international export of food and drink. I devote some of my time to Scottish Development International who are a Scottish Government organisation that are charged with the promotion of all things Scottish around the world.

The appointment of a National Chef was set up to help promote Scotland’s produce and the associated health benefits, not only in what we produce as a nation but also in what we buy, serve, eat and cook day-by-day. This is a Government post that runs with each term of parliament and now I’m in my second term that is expected to continue until March 2026. Although it is a government-appointed post, I am in no way interested in politics and am only interested in the promotion of our incredible produce and in food education. This is also a voluntary role which is great because I am not influenced by a pay cheque and I only get involved in projects that I feel passionate about or if I think I could make a difference. The only reason I can donate so much of my time to the role is due to the incredible support I get from my employers at the City of Glasgow College for the senior team there believes in the role and the positive impact it has on food education throughout Scotland. Since 2017 I have been truly amazed at the impact food can have on people, food has an incredible way of bringing people together from all walks of life. I personally think the biggest impact I can make in the role is to be working with young people who are on the outer edges of our society, people who have had a really bad

I have been able to show off our outstanding home grown food and drink to some of the world’s biggest companies and importers and along the way to hundreds of chefs around the world. Most people do not realise that Scottish produce is revered in the very best establishments in every corner of the world. Now that we are trying to get back to some sort of new normal, I am very much looking forward to getting back out and sharing my love of food. Gary Maclean’s Creel Caught restaurant is located at Bonnie & Wild Scottish Marketplace within the St James Quarter in Edinburgh. He is also author of Kitchen Essentials: The Joy of Home Cooking.

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Pies, Glorious Pies by Amy Middleton

Whether sweet or savoury, pies are a dish that can be enjoyed all year round, but they are particularly perfect as comfort food to be enjoyed in the dark and cold wintery evenings. The pie is a Scottish culinary staple, a masterpiece of gastronomical engineering, and contrary to popular opinion they don’t always have to be stodgy and bland. A truly good pie should be a feast of flavour and texture. Taste Magazine takes a look at some of the most succulent, imaginative and creative pies on offer in Scotland ahead of the World Championship Scotch Pie Awards.

THE WEECOOK KITCHEN - CARNOUSTIE Award-winning pie makers The WeeCOOK Kitchen are based at Barry Downs Holiday Park near Carnoustie in Angus. The family-run company has built a reputation for fresh, flavoursome pies and friendly service. Specialising in dishes inspired by family traditions, local and seasonal produce, their signature dishes include the Beef Steak Bourguignon Pie, which was awarded a Silver Medal at the British Pie Awards 2020 and the Chicken & Bacon Pie, winner of a Great Taste Award 2019. The WeeCOOK Kitchen regularly attend farmer markets in Montrose, Forfar, Dundee, Arbroath and Bowhouse, and operate The WeeCOOK Pie Store in Dundee’s Wellgate shopping centre on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

PIE DOLLY - LEITH

Leith Market legends Pie Dolly have been lovingly crafting artisan pies in the capital since 2016. Their bestseller is undoubtedly their traditional Pork Pie that is always a guaranteed sell-out and is also stocked at various places across the city such as IJ Mellis Cheesemongers. Operating a stall at Leith Market most Saturdays, Pie Dolly rotates a selection of their favourite pies such as the Spiced Lamb & Apricot alongside sausage rolls and quiches. Their seasonal pies are always incredibly popular too and favourites include the Hot Cross Bunny Pie, which uses rabbit from Castle Game Scotland in Linlithgow and their Christmas special of pheasant, chicken, and smoked bacon with cranberries, juniper and thyme.

CLARK’S – DUNDEE

Clark’s Bakery is a Dundee institution that operates 24 hours. It is probably unlike any other bakery you will have visited offering an extensive selection of pies with a myriad of fillings as well as baguettes, pizzas, doughnuts, cakes, and fresh baked rolls. With a passion and respect for traditional baking, Clark’s have been based in Dundee for over 60 years after founder Ernest Earle Clark started producing freshly baked goods from the back of his corner shop on Annfield Road in 1950. Clark’s now has nine bakeries and a butchery that supplies all the meat for its pies and slices.

Meat Produce BREER PIE – ABERDEENSHIRE

Brother and sister duo Dale and Jodie Breer launched Breer Pie Co in 2020 offering indulgent gourmet pies filled with hand trimmed and slow-cooked cuts of locally sourced meats, all wrapped in their signature homemade wheat berry crust pastry. Their Highland Steak Mince & Mealie pie uses beef from Aberdeenshire Highland Beef, whilst their traditional Pork Pie showcases free-range rare breed pork shoulder from Louise’s Farm Kitchen. Breer Pie Co’s pies can be found in several shops and delis across Aberdeenshire such as family-run Kepplestone Farm Shop and Charleton Fruit Farm.

JARVIS PICKLE - SCOTTISH BORDERS Crafted in the Eyemouth in the Scottish Borders and winners of 30 British Pie Awards, it’s fair to say Jarvis Pickles’ pies are pretty good. Their Steak and Kidney Pie was crowned Champion in 2020, whilst their Pork and Blue Cheese; Venison, Port & Redcurrant; and Cullen Skink Pies are all winners of Great Taste Awards over the last four years. Jarvis Pickle pies are stocked in shops, pubs, and restaurants throughout the UK and they also offer a Pies by Post service where a pie donation is made to Scottish homelessness charity Cyrenians for every four pies bought.

DOUGIE’S PIES – GLASGOW After perfecting his steak pie recipe over 22 years as a chef at The Daily Record in Glasgow, Alan Macdonald received so many compliments about his legendary pies that he finally decided to take the hint and start his own business! Using succulent, locally sourced beef and home-made gravy, Dougie’s Pies are lovingly handcrafted and delivered to doors throughout Glasgow and Lanarkshire. Dougie’s Pies are available in single and family-sized portions.

LOCHINVER LARDER – SUTHERLAND Lochinver Larder was created by Ian and Debra Stewart in 1986. It started as a deli with takeaway sandwiches before expanding to open a B&B and eventually a restaurant, where diners can enjoy great food and stunning views out across Loch Inver. Famous for their delicious homemade pies and warm hospitality, Lochinver Larder has attracted a loyal following over the last 30 years. The pies have become so popular that they can now be sent anywhere across the UK with Pies by Post. Lochinver Larder’s grounds are also home to Vera, a former 4x4 military truck that has been converted into a pie shack, that serves up a range of Lochinver Larder’s favourite pies such as Haggis, Neeps & Tatties, Pork, Chorizo & Manchego, and Venison & Cranberry. Taste Magazine had no idea who the entrants were to be at this year’s event of the 22nd World Championship Scotch Pie Awards despite being one of their judges! For each of the entrant’s pie was marked simply by a number. The judges declared their annual judging day a huge success as over 70 butchers and bakers delivered more than 400 pies for judging by 60 experts in their field. The judges were looking for pie perfection across entries in 11 categories: Scotch Pie, Football Pies & Savouries, Macaroni Pie, Steak Pie, Sausage Roll, Cold Savoury, Hot Savoury, Vegetarian Savoury, Haggis Savoury, Bridie and Apple Pies. The winner will be announced at a prestigious lunch to be held at the Westerwood Hotel, Cumbernauld on January 18th, 2022. “Judging day is always a highlight in my calendar and today did not disappoint. It was our first chance to come together as an industry since March 2020 and so it really did feel special today,” said Alasdair Smith, Chief Executive of Scottish Bakers who runs the competition on behalf of the bakery and butchery trades. Adding, “It always heartens me to see such an amazing display of pies which have been lovingly made from scratch from locally sourced ingredients, freshly made daily by skilled craftspeople. I say this a lot but this really is the only competition of its kind, recognising excellence in the preparation of a perfect Scottish pie, and the winners genuinely receive a business boost for every title they take so it’s no wonder they try so hard to win each year.”

Dram Good!

Tamdhu

Whisky for Hogmanay and Burns’ Night By Gavin D Smith

Facts and figures

Winter brings with it two of Scotland’s greatest traditional celebrations, namely Hogmanay and Burn Night (25th January), and neither would be complete without a dram or two of fine Scotch whisky.

According to the Scotch Whisky Association, 36 x 70cl bottles of Scotch whisky are shipped from Scotland to 166 markets around the world each second, totalling over 1.14bn every year, and in 2019, Scotch accounted for 75% of Scottish food and drink exports, and 21% of all UK food and drink exports. More than 10,000 people are directly employed in the Scotch whisky industry across Scotland.

Happily, for those looking to raise a glass, there is more choice than ever before within the realms of Scotch, from longaged, sherry casks-matured and peaty full-bodied drams to young, fruity, light expressions, ideal perhaps for mixing. At the close of 2020 there were no fewer than 134 Scottish whisky distilleries in production and, of those, more than 30 have opened in the last decade alone. Whether relaxing at home, celebrating in a bar, at a Hogmanay party or at a Burns Supper, whisky is a wonderful social lubricant, bonding friends and strangers alike, and all the while paying homage to one of Scotland’s greatest commercial successes.

Choose your drams Clearly, it would be unpatriotic not to support our wonderful industry, and this is the perfect time of year to indulge yourself and your friends in some fine whisky without breaking the bank. So why not explore beyond your usual choices using the suggestions below? In terms of whisky styles, winter occasions such as Hogmanay and Burns Night may call for some fuller-bodied single malts, perhaps with the influence of sherry cask maturation and/or an element of peatiness.

Isle of Rasaay

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Whisky

Sherried sweetness For lovers of sherried drams, why not give some of the biggest names a swerve, and opt for the lower profile but excellent Tamdhu? The 12-year-old 43%abv expression retails for around £45, but if you want a really bold and intense sherried whisky experience, opt for the Batch Strength variant, currently in its 6th iteration and bottled at a hefty 56.8%abv (£80). Sherry-rich alternatives include fellow Speysider the 15-year-old Glendronach Revival, bottled at 46%abv (£62) and matured in a mix of Pedro Ziminez and oloroso sherry casks for a rich, complex, flavoursome dram. Far away from Speyside, in the Kintyre capital of Campbeltown, is Glen Scotia distillery, which offers the 46%abv sherry-finished Double Cask (£40). After initial bourbon cask maturation, the whisky is transferred to Spanish Pedro Ximinez casks, giving a sweet and spicy kick to accompany its slightly oily, coastal character.

Sweet and peat For those wishing to combine sherry and peat influences in their dram, there is the ever-excellent 16-year-old 43%abv Lagavulin (£65) from Islay, while an attractive lower-profile Islay single malt to combine sweetness and smoke is the 46%abv Kilchoman Sanaig (£52), aged in a mix of oloroso sherry and bourbon casks.

A sense of smoke For an all-out peated Islay whisky, Douglas Laing’s blended malt (including spirit from several undisclosed Islay distilleries) Big Peat offers fine value (£37), a lot of guts and great balance. If you like some smoke in your whisky but prefer it not to be too medicinal, we suggest Machrie Moor, 46%abv, (£45), distilled on the Isle of Arran. One single malt not to be missed is Glenmorangie’s limited edition 13-year-old Tale of Winter (£75), finished in Marsala wine casks from Sicily, and boasting notes of fruit and honey, cocoa, cinnamon and cloves. Visit www.glenmorangie.com for whisky cocktail recipes, including a delicious Winter Old-Fashioned, made with Tale of Winter.

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New kids on the whisky block Whiskies from the new crop of Scottish distilleries certainly deserve our attention, as there are some really impressive youthful drams out there. For us, highlights include Ncn’ean Organic Single Malt – Batch 8, 46%abv (£47), produced on the remote Morven peninsula in the West Highlands. Its highly accomplished whisky is nutty, with juicy fruit and cereal notes, spice and black pepper. It also comes in an extremely unorthodox bottle for a malt whisky, which helps make this a great gift. Another favourite is Isle of Raasay Single Malt, 46.4%abv, distilled in the Hebrides since September 2017. It comprises peated and unpeated spirit, matured in three differing cask types, including Bordeaux red wine casks. In terms of character, it offers aromatic peat, vanilla, red berries, tangy oak and savoury spice.

Remember the blends So far, we have only featured malt Scotch whiskies, but there are also many excellent blends available, priced to suit all pockets. At their best, blends combine many different yet complementary stylistic characteristics into a harmonious whole, greater than the sum of its parts. A characterful and original choice is the superb Compass Box Glasgow Blend (£35). A malt-rich independent bottling, with sherry and bourbon-cask influences, plus a hint of peat, giving a rich, smoky, satisfying experience. Another less obvious option is Black Bull 12 Year Old, bottled at 50%abv (£41) by Duncan Taylor, featuring a relatively high percentage of malt whisky, and matured in ex-sherry and bourbon casks. The result is a full-bodied blend, yielding toffee, vanilla, citrus fruits and chocolate notes. Moving up the price range, one of the very best blends for special occasions in our opinion is Johnnie Walker Blue Label, 40%abv (£145) - sophisticated, balanced, smooth, and with great depth. Delicious and satisfying!

Scotch whisky is renowned the world over for its excellent quality and its integrity, and the Scotch whisky industry is also at the forefront of environmental responsibility. Among a raft of initiatives, it has set a target of achieving overall carbon neutrality by the year 2040, and earlier this year, Nc’nean became the first distillery in the UK to achieve an independently verified net zero carbon footprint. All the more reason then, to celebrate two of Scotland’s most revered annual occasions with the nation’s most revered drink – Scotch whisky!

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Whisky

Selected Whisky Bars Ardshiel Hotel, Kilkerran Road, Campbeltown, Argyll PA28 6JL – tel: 01586 552133 - www.ardshiel.co.uk Over 700 malts to choose from in this Campbeltown hotel’s whisky bar, which stocks a fantastic array of local whiskies, and many more besides. Ballygrant Inn & Restaurant, Ballygrant, Isle of Islay Argyll PA45 7QR – tel: 01496 840277 – www.ballygrant-inn.co.uk Located between Bowmore and Port Askaig, the Ballygrant Whisky Bar is home to over 900 malt whiskies, including many rare and remarkable drams from the ‘whisky island’ itself. The Bon Accord, 153 North Street, Glasgow G3 7DA – tel: 0141 248 4427 – www.bonaccordpub.com The Bon Accord has more than 400 whiskies on its gantry, and is known for its old and rare bottlings. These include a 70-year-old Glenlivet and a 72-year-old Macallan. The Grill - 213 Union Street, Aberdeen AB11 6BA – tel: 01224 583563 - www.thegrillaberdeen.co.uk Established as a restaurant in 1870, The Grill is a true old school bar with some 600 whiskies on offer, going right back to a pre-war Macallan.

The Grill Highlander Inn, Craigellachie, Banffshire AB38 9SRT – tel: 01340 881 446 – www.whiskyinn.com Located in the Speyside village of Craigellachie, The Highlander is patronised by locals and tourists alike. Over 300 whiskies are available, with the emphasis on diversity in terms of ages and bottlers. The Quaich Bar - Craigellachie Hotel, Victoria St, Craigellachie, Banffshire AB38 9SR – tel: 01340 881204 – www. craigellachiehotel.co.uk. The Craigellachie is situated in the heart of Speyside and its famous Quaich Bar boasts around 1,000 single-malt whiskies. The Pot Still, 154 Hope St, Glasgow, G2 2TH – tel: 0141 333 0980 – www.thepotstill.co.uk

The Quaich Bar

A central Glasgow institution, with a stock of more than 800 whiskies, the Pot Still also hosts regular tasting events and sells delicious locally-made pies! Usquabae, 2-4 Hope St, Edinburgh EH2 4DB – tel: 0131 290 2284 – www.usquabae.co.uk In the west end of Edinburgh New Town, just off Princes Street, Usquabae boasts an extensive whisky menu, while also majoring in Scottish produce when it comes to accompanying meals. Whiski Rooms, 4-7 North Bank Street, Edinburgh EH1 2LP – tel: 0131 225 7224 – www.whiskirooms.co.uk Whiski Rooms restaurant and bar enjoys great views over Edinburgh’s New Town, and stocks more than 300 whiskies, plus an on-site tasting room and adjoining whisky shop.

Usquabae

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Seafood

Smoked Out! This ancient way of preserving fish has survived decades and is being given a new lease of life. Rosalind Erskine discovers the history of smoking seafood in Scotland. Smoked salmon is now a staple of brunch dishes and decadent hotel breakfasts, but this dish, which has become synonymous with Scotland, has been around since the 11th century, as this is the time period when we can trace smoking fish back to. We’ve got the Vikings to thank for our smoking practices, as it’s believed that they introduced smoking as a way of preserving fish to Scotland. There are two main methods of smoking fish - the more traditional involves fish being suspended in purpose-built smokehouses over slowly smouldering wood shavings, and left for a long period of time, often overnight, to be naturally infused with smoke. A more mechanised method involves the generation of smoke via specialist condensers, where the flow of smoke in mechanical kilns is computer controlled and the fish generally spend less time than in a traditional kiln. Fish and seafood can also be smoked on a lower key level using commercially available smaller smokers designed for domestic use, or even by the construction of rudimentary smokers using old tin boxes and wood shavings. There are two principle smoking processes utilised for fish and seafood; cold smoking, which is probably the most commonly used smoking method, where the smoke used gently infuses the fish with flavour without actually cooking it. The other method is hot smoking where the smoke is hot enough to actually cook the fish as well as flavouring it. Salmon is probably the most popular fish species to be smoked in the UK. Farmed salmon is excellent for smoking due to its higher and more consistent oil content than wild fish. Whole skin-on salmon fillets are cured with a mixture of salt and sugar, and often some spices, over a set time, then washed and rested for at least 24 hours; before then being smoked for a number of hours, usually using hardwoods such as oak or beech.

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After cooling, the salmon is portioned and prepared as required. Smoked salmon is a very distinctive product, which varies considerably according to the individual recipe of the respective smokehouse – the flavour and texture are affected both by the type of wood used for smoking and particularly by the way the actual fish is cured. Curing entails ensuring there is the right amount of salt in the finished product and all smokers will usually have their own ‘secret’ cure recipes – different flavourings, herbs and spices can all be added at this stage to give unique and individual character to the finished product. Many other oil-rich fish are also well suited to the smoking process, including trout, mackerel and herring (to produce kippers). Halibut, tuna, scallops, mussels, oysters and prawns also work well, as do eel fillets. Haddock is another species that is well suited to smoking, and cold smoked haddock fillets are the basis of any great kedgeree or fish pie recipe. The bright yellow colour often associated with smoked haddock is a dye, historically used to compensate for a reduced smoking time, which lowered the cost. While dye is still sometimes used, there is an increased demand for natural smoked haddock, which has a subtle, off-white colour. Finnan haddie (or Finnan haddock) originated in the Scottish fishing village of Findon in Aberdeenshire, where whole haddock were headed, gutted and split open leaving the backbone and tail intact, then soaked in brine before being cold smoked over smouldering peat. The traditional preparation is to then roast or grill the whole pieces of fish over high heat. Finnan haddock can also be used in a traditional kedgeree, or in an Arnold Bennett omelette, or as the main fish component in the traditional Scottish soup Cullen Skink. Cod is another common fish used for smoking, but is not usually as popular as haddock, which has a sweeter flavour.

Belhaven Smokehouse While hot and cold smoked salmon and smoked haddock are the most popular and well known of the smoked fish, you can’t mention Scotland and smoking seafood without talking about the Arbroath Smokie. The Arbroath Smoked is created by a traditional method of smoking. The fish are salted overnight and then tied in pairs and left to dry, then they are hung over a triangular length of wood to smoke in a barrel. The Arbroath Smokie has enjoyed official European protection through the Protected Geographical Indication, other products of this level include Champagne, Parma Ham and even Stornoway Black Pudding. This means that only fine quality haddock, smoked in the traditional way within Arbroath can be called an Arbroath Smokie. They are also available to buy at Gary Maclean’s restaurant, Creel Caught, in Edinburgh’s Bonnie & Wild. This method of infusing a deep, fragrant flavour to food, has recently been used to create a smoked gin. The Gin Bothy recently launched 250 bottles of this smoked gin, with botanicals that are smoked in a fisher smoke house in Arbroath.The team say this is the only smoked gin made in a protected designation of origin area, using a Smokie ‘bothy’. They worked with Alex Spink and Sons, who have been making smokies in Arbroath since 1977, applying their traditional smoking techniques to juniper, orange peel, coriander and lemon which were then distilled to create the gin.

Arbroath Smokies

Iain Spink, of the family business, had to relearn the traditional smoking methods - smoking haddock in a whisky barrel - as this skill had effectively died out by the 1960s. Speaking to The Scotsman, Iain said of his journey back into making Arbroath Smokies: “I never imagined for a second that I would go back into full time Smokie making again. A friend of mine asked if I’d go to Cupar farmers’ market (as a favour). I went along and took a box or two of fish, but a monster queue appeared and the whole lot disappeared in an hour and a half.”

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Seafood

Belhaven Smokehouse Someone else that knows about keeping tradition alive is Rob Trotter, who has recently taken over Dunbar’s Belhaven Smokehouse, a business that has been in operation for over 45 years. Having come from working in residential property management, this is a huge step in a different direction for Rob, who explains that the chance was too good to miss. “Buying Belhaven is a real opportunity to maintain and grow the legacy of the brand, and introduce customers to quality smoked salmon and trout,” he said. “I hate to say it but shoppers have become acclimatised to mass-produced smoked salmon and don’t get the chance to taste really good quality.”

Belhaven Smokehouse

To rectify this, Rob is planning to expand the business to include a restaurant, car parking and a significant extension to their shop. He’s also excited about the huge potential for developing their E-commerce offering so that more people across the UK can enjoy Belhaven smoked salmon. The previous owners had focused on the wholesale market, and with Covid-19 taking its toll, decided to put the business and premises on the market in November 2020. “Not only is this an attractive site, I wanted to rescue the smokehouse and brand. I want to create a destination where people come to buy our products, and a wide selection of produce from across the Lothians and beyond, but also enjoy simple, good quality food in a family friendly restaurant,” Rob said.

Belhaven Smokehouse Belhaven smoked salmon is another product that has stuck to an original recipe - it’s a labour-intensive process as it’s dry-cured and smoked by hand using oak chips. They currently supply the prestigious Balmoral hotel as well as Edinburgh Larder, Peter’s Yard and numerous other smaller, local outlets. Rob has recently hired a new General Manager, Marie-Clare James, and her daughter who he can foresee running the shop. This investment and change in direction, Rob hopes, will safeguard the brand and traditional practices for the future and create a destination that East Lothian is proud to have on its doorstep. Speaking of the history of smoking fish, Andy Gray, Trade Marketing Manager at Love Seafood / Seafish, said: “Originally intended as a way to preserve foods, the process of smoking also adds a different dimension to taste and texture. The smoking of fish and many other forms of seafood has been widely practiced for generations – both on a commercial scale and by many chefs and keen cooks – and can produce a great variety of enjoyable taste and texture experiences.”

Belhaven Smokehouse

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It’s clear that this ancient method of preserving fish has come a long way, and with investment in heritage businesses, supporting your local fishmonger, and using smoked fish in cooking at home, it’ll continue to survive and thrive.

Bespoke Scottish Festive Hampers Treat your friends and family this Christmas to a bespoke hamper packed with some of Scotland’s finest food and wine products and support local businesses at the same time. Here we handpick some of our favourite products on the market to help spread some festive joy. It’s just sometimes hard not to try them all yourself!

Meat and Fish

Salmon is a staple at any festive table. Having raised salmon for over 20 years in the crystal clear waters off North West Scotland, you’ll be in safe hands buying from Loch Duart based on the magical island of North Uist in the Outer Hebrides. The award winning Native Hebridean Smoked Scottish Salmon company uses salmon that has been raised in its natural Hebridean environment giving it a truly unique flavour native. Master curers and smokers, John Ross Jnr showcase their skills with their delicious range of premium-quality salmon from their smokehouse in Aberdeenshire. Also check out our feature on Smokehouses featuring Belhaven Smokehouse, East

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Coast Kilnhouse, and Amity Fish, who also provide delicious seafood boxes delivered straight to your door. Produced by Charles Mcleod butchers in Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, choose an award-winning black pudding that is the real McCoy. Looking for some top quality Scotch Beef from a trusted Scottish farm? J W Galloway has everything from steaks to burgers to kebabs. We love their Beef Rib and their Silverside cuts. Another trusted Scottish farm would be Peelham Farm who offer festive meat and poultry boxes and have an ethos that is to be admired.

Drinks

East Lothian-based Belhaven Brewery knows a thing or two about beer and offers an extensive collection ranging from their best-selling Belhaven Best to their awardwinning range of craft beers. Have we got enough beers on the list? No. Okay Stewart Brewing, Loanhead-based independent craft beer brewery offers a large range of cask, can and bottled beers including their new El Nino IPA and Clara Rosa tropical IPA in design-led cans. Pick up your favourite beers from Cold Town Brewery or try one of their seasonal varieties such as Christmas Pudding Ale or Chocolate Cake Stout. Can’t decide, then opt for their pick and mix box. Gift the taste of the Highlands with a 12-year-old Loch Lomond Whisky gift set that comes with a bespoke box of artisanal Cocoa Ooze chocolate truffles. Be sure to bring the gift of Crabbies to your festive celebrations whether it’s their signature Green Ginger Wine, whisky, gin, liqueurs or their best-selling Crabbie’s Alcoholic Ginger Beer. Another perfect gift is a blend of sweet and smoke, malt and grain, Johnnie Walker’s Black Label offers a whisky with a unique depth of flavour. The richly flavoured malt whisky with smoky notes of dark fruit, nuts and dried spice from J.G Thompson is the perfect post dinner treat or choose a whisky with flair from Wee Smokey, a perfect ingredient in party cocktails. A gift for a relative? Matured in American oak ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, Speyburn Single Malt Whisky light and sweet whisky will be sure to please. Now for something different. MacNair's Lum Reek Blended Malt Scotch Whisky is a multi-award winning whisky that combines single malts from Islay and Speyside creating a truly unique blend. Another whisky that you’d be forgiven for not gifting would be The GlenAllachie Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky. This awardwinning Single Malt Scotch Whisky is well worth talking about and even better to taste! Savora Drinks Zesty Lime & Sweet Agave is the perfect tequila mixer for when friends visit. Glasgow-based artificial-free sodas that are low on calories, that would be Rapscallion Soda who have a lovely gift box so you can mix and match to find your favourite flavour. Looking for a soda that makes use of natural sweeteners? Be sure to

check out Bon Accord for some authentic sweetness, we love their rhubarb soda. Whether its festive flavours, Christmas tea or caffeine-free comforts, the Edinburgh-based Rosevear Tea has lots of choice to help you relax and enjoy some festive TV and their shops have a magical feel to them or opt for one of the Perthshire-made teas from Strathearn Tea including one with spiced orange, rose and warming spices that bring Christmas to your taste buds. Alice’s Kitchen’s homemade jams and cordials and jams using the finest strawberries, raspberries and blackberries grown on their family farm in Crail. Perfect at breakfast time. The Gael Signature Gin - Created from a love of music and gin, The Gael, distilled by Gael Spirits Company at Strathleven Distillery in Dumbarton, brings a citrus tingle to your taste buds. You can’t go wrong with Glasgow Gin’s London Dry gin in their new jet black bottles. Now you’d be forgiven for purchasing festive-themed flavoured gin from Pickerings and then enjoying them yourself. Wow your dinner guests at Christmastime with some gintastic crackers, a Berry Good gin or a Bramble & Berry Bubble Cocktail Box from Avva Scottish Gin from Moray. Have you seen the Gin Pigs from Stirling Gin? You have got to see them, they are just amazing and are the perfect gift to anyone who loves gin. Ever wondered what gin blended with mocha would taste like? Then look no further as Shetland Reel combines our two favourite tipples, gin and coffee! Edinburgh’s Great British Vermouth captures the countryside in a bottle, bringing a completely natural flavour and a scent of the wilderness. Combine 100% natural botanical ingredients including Madagascan vanilla, Arabian cubebs and the West African Kola nut with fresh Royal Deeside water and the result is the truly unique Ron Cabezon Botanical Rum. Experience a taste of the wilderness with Buck & Birch with liqueurs crafted from foraged ingredients. Check out the Wild Festival Cocktail Selection Box offering five festive cocktails crafted from the finest wild botanicals and premium spirits with a sprinkle of Buck & Birch magic mixed in for good measure.

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“fresh and zingy” “standout mixer” “refreshing long drink”

Rewrite your Tequila story with Savora Drinks. Premium Scottish mixers expertly crafted for pairing with Tequila. Available online and at a bar near you.

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Scottish Larder

Hungry Squirrel Nut Butters - For vegan and naturally gluten-free butters in a variety of flavours including peanut and maple pecan butter. Trodden Black Dead Hot Sauce - If you think you can handle the heat, Dollar-based Trodden Dead hot sauces and chilli jams will spice things up! everythingCHILLI Lime Shred Marmalade - This Ayrshire-based company produces a range of deli-type gourmet chilli jams, preserves, marmalades and relishes. For 100% natural and sustainable sea salt, be sure to welcome Blackthorn Sea Salt into the kitchen. Kassells Kitchen, Perthshire-based mother/daughter

partnership produces a range of flavoursome jams and chutneys including a very tasty raspberry conserve. Beet This Original Sauce is the brainchild of a Scottish mechanic, this tasty, veganfriendly and versatile sauce pairs well with cheese, crackers, steak, burgers and even as a pizza base. Make sure you have some handmade, flavour-packed Anster cheese from St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company on your festive cheese board. Established over 130 years ago, Marshalls are pasta experts. As Scotland’s biggest pasta brand, they offer an extensive range including a classic cheesy Mac ‘N’ Cheese and a Snacoroni, jazzed up with Monterey Jack Cheese and fiery chipotle. Millers Larder, a family-run company making chutneys and pickles including their award-winning Perfyit Piccalilli. Available at Millers Larder at Roasted in Strathaven, Ramsay at Carluke, The Duke’s Deli in Lanark, and Ramsay at Carluke. Edinburgh Fermentarium handcrafts healthy fermented food including Xmas kimchi, Kōji Glühwein Mix and a selection of Christmas gift packs. Vinegar is a kitchen staple so why not spice things up with some flavoured vinegars from Orkney Craft Vinegar including a Sugar Kelp flavour, perfect for those post-Christmas salads. Whether it’s spreading it on your toast or a key ingredient in your baking, Alice’s Kitchen Blackberry Jam will work perfectly. For those looking for a bit of a kick in their jam, then seek out some Dodgers Chilli Plum Chutney. If you’re on the search for handmade pickles, slaws or a Kimchi Hot Sauce, then Edinburgh-based aye pickled company should be firmly on your radar.

Snacks and Desserts Sweet tooth lovers can indulge in a heavenly range of fudge (including mint chocolate flavour), tablet, coconut snowballs and meringues from Glasgow-based Bonnie Glen. Indulge yourself this festive season with some artisanal handmade chocolate treats - candied orange peel dark, gin liqueur chocolates or cracked caramel hot chocolate - from the wonderful people at Pittenweem Chocolate Company. Winner on BBC’s Dragons’ Den, Purely Heavenly produces a chocolate range that is free from dairy, egg, soy and palm oil and lives up to its name. If you’re looking for that wow factor then take a look at Cocoa Black Luxury Chocolates who offer a fabulous array of chocolate gift boxes on offer alongside their magical selection from Peebles-based UK Confectioner of the Year. We love their chocolate baubles and the festive tree. The perfect stocking filling is sure to be Mackie’s chocolates, surely? Don’t forget a scoop or two of Mackie’s ice cream on Christmas day too.For meaty treats, East Coast Cured, a family-run company based in Leith, offers a range of tasty cured meats including our favourite Porcini & Truffle. Looking for something different to nibble on, try some 100% Scotch Beef biltong,

marinated, cured and air-dried using traditional South African methods from Hungten Biltong. And if you want a healthy post workout snack containing pure Scotch Beef, Big Beefys Biltong is the treat for you.

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Food Pairing

A Food Pairing Journey “This is not your traditional pie and pint.” Award-winning food writer Cate Devine discovers a new taste sensation when pairing beer with finedining food for the very first time. It’s with some trepidation that I embark on a new type of gastronomic journey: pairing beer with food. And this was not just any food; this was restaurant fine-dining food. It’s to prove a learning experience for me as I’m more familiar with wine, whisky, gin, cocktail and even tea food pairings. Wasn’t it a bit oldfashioned to drink beer with food? As I’m about to discover, the ‘eat local’ movement is growing legs or should that be kegs?! - to embrace Scottish-brewed beer too. “There’s no reason you can’t drink beer with food, and it’s not more difficult to pair food with beer than it is to match it with wine,” begins George Alexakis, head brewer at Belhaven Brewery in Dunbar, whose beers we are tasting. “There are three main factors involved: the flavour intensity, the acidity and the aromatics profile.” George adds that the yeast used uniquely at Belhaven – at over 300 years old and one of the oldest breweries in Scotland – is a very old strain with different substances and with a very specific character. The water he uses runs under the distillery - once a monastery which, he believes, also has unique properties. He has a Masters in Brewing and Distilling from Heriot Watt University as well as being a fully qualified winemaker (oenologist), having run a winery in Crete prior to his switch into beer. He has experience of developing wine lists with restaurateurs, and especially for Taste Magazine Scotland, he’s adapted this experience to talk about pairing Belhaven beers with food. He refutes the suggestion that Belhaven ales, heavy and stouts tend towards the heavier side, saying instead that traditional ales have more flavour than weight. “Scottish ales impart more malty flavours,” he says. “Yet there is a huge range of complexity in each one.”

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He says that traditional ales such as Belhaven go extremely well with locally sourced produce. Depending on how they are prepared, venison and beef are delicious with a 7% stout or 5% ale as they enhance onion and pepper notes, and are strong enough in flavour to match chilli and garlic. “As a stout drinker, I like the Oat Stout with a Beef Wellington too.” He adds that it is good with Scottish game, meat and charcuterie but it, too, pairs well with dessert such as tiramisu due to its Espresso notes.

On the other hand, the Craft Pilsner, with its lighter profile, is well suited to “everyday comfort foods” such as pasta, lasagne and pizza. His own favourite topping is mushroom with thyme because those flavours match the hoppy profile of the Pilsner. Steamed mussels, smoked trout and prawns would also go well with this, he suggests. I’m advised that the fruitiness of the Pilsner and the 80/- works really well with hot-smoked rainbow trout from Belhaven Smokehouse - which supplies top Scots restaurants including Neil Forbes’ Café St Honore in Edinburgh, and Derek Johnstone at the Rusacks Hotel in St Andrews.

As for the 90/- Wee Heavy, he says: “To me, it is Christmas pudding in a glass. It would also go well with a Black Forest type dessert or – my favourite – sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream.” I express some surprise at this but he counters that while the Wee Heavy may have a strong flavour, it also has sweet characteristics due to the roasted malts imparting dark fruit notes. The Wee Heavy is similar to a sweet dessert wine made with dried grapes to intensify the aromatics. “Even the colour of both is similar: rich chestnut brown.”

So, suitably armed with inspiration, I head over to Glasgow, where bespoke beer-paired dishes are being put together especially for Taste Magazine Scotland. “This is not your traditional pie and pint,” says Colin Clydesdale, patron of award-winning Glasgow restaurants Ubiquitous Chip and Stravaigin as he sips on a 7% Belhaven Oat Stout. “This is absolutely delicious, deep and nuanced, and goes brilliantly with our take on boeuf bourguignon. “It’s really not surprising when you take into account the artistry that goes into making a stout like this.” Senior sous-chef Jamie Miller, 25, has prepared a stunning modern Scottish take on the French classic, using slow-cooked Borders beef ox cheek and tongue with duck fat shallot confit topped with shaved king oyster mushrooms, and served with a rich glossy velvety red wine gravy. A side dish of truffled mash with tongue and heritage carrots adds to the rather sophisticated, refined, flavour-layered dish.

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Food Pairing

“Being a chef is all about developing new taste sensations and I think we’ll be doing more with this beer and our modern Scottish food.” We sip a glass of Belhaven Oat Stout as we taste. “Ah, this is a perfect match,” says Chef. “The chocolatey, almost treacly, notes really stand up to the beef. This is a new taste sensation for me and it is quite a thrill to discover.” Jamie, who worked with Paul Kitching at 21212 in Edinburgh before coming to Stravaigin, says his cooking is mostly influenced by trips to South-East Asia and he’d normally drink wine or a light lager. “My father is a wine lover and I am more familiar with French and Italian wines than I am with stout and ale,” he says. “It’s interesting for me to pair traditional Scottish beers with our modern Scottish cuisine. It’s new and a lot of fun and now I’m excited to think about trying out new pairings with it.” A glass of Belhaven 80/- with his Belhaven Smokehouse hotsmoked rainbow trout dish was also, quite literally, sensational. Jamie created a sharing plate of trout flakes with smoked caviar, scorched beer-pickled shallot shells (for fruitiness) and julienned Granny Smiths (for sharpness) on a bed of buttermilk puree with lemon and fresh butter, all drizzled with bright-green, house tarragon oil and topped with microgreens. “The robust fruity smoothness of the 80/- instantly brings out the flavours of the onion and the apple, and is sturdy enough to enhance the smokiness of the trout,” he said. “There’s no bitterness there; it’s really, really good. “Being a chef is all about developing new taste sensations and I think we’ll be doing more with this beer and our modern Scottish food.” Traditional Scottish ales such as Belhaven are up against fierce competition from larger global brands which, in the quest for the ever-important younger demographic, are able to launch new lighter brews with a variety of different flavours, colours, aromatics – and quirky names. Are Belhaven looking to the future too? “Yes. A key characteristic of Belhaven is its history and tradition,” replies George. “If we were to move forward with a new beer to accommodate new younger generations it would be with new flavours and new ingredients.” The brewery has just opened a visitor shop and is now looking to restore and recultivate the ancient walled garden attached to it. “The garden will give us scope to grow a variety of herbs and aromatics for new brews,” says George. “It would be really amazing to see how, for example, homegrown thyme would go with a new beer. We don’t use it in any brew we currently make. With strong provenance a huge part of our story, this could be really, really exciting.”

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Food & Drink

How Scottish food and drink has emerged alive and cooking By Cate Devine You only have to look - and listen - around you to know that despite the recent twin challenges of the Covid19 pandemic and Brexit, the Scottish food and drink scene has emerged alive and cooking. In recent times eating and drinking has morphed from minimal to mainstream in what can really only be described as the Great Scottish Food Revolution. Witness the news stories, features, analysis, opinion columns and political discourse we read about or watch every day in mainstream and social media. Food and drink has truly become part of the national conversation. Pillars of Hercules

And, interestingly, it’s not only women who are participating. It’s evident that men across the country are just as interested in what they eat, where their food comes from, how it’s made and who makes it as women are. This used to be more noticeable in European countries, and shows just how far our participation and interest in food has come. Scotland was the first country in the UK to launch a national food strategy back in 2009, and it has enabled ambition within the industry. New products using local ingredients and local talent are being launched almost every day.

Mara Seaweed

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Now in supermarkets and corner shops you can buy big-brand and artisanal Scottish products plus a wide range of fresh Scottish produce sourced from all parts of the country. Rapeseed oil, culinary salt, artisan cheeses, breads using flour from Scottishgrown heritage wheat, butters, beers, spirits are widely available. Consumer demand for these products has soared.

Rora Dairy The food and drink sector in Scotland is made up of more than 17,000 businesses which employ around 122,000 people, many in remote and economically fragile rural and island communities. It’s evident that almost all parts of the country have become foodproducing clusters with their own characteristics. The great Scottish food revival has brought to the fore its people, produce and provenance of a quality that can easily match, if not better, that of other European countries. Who, even as recently as the 1980s, could have dreamed that it would be so easy to buy – at retail and farm shops or online - Scottish charcuterie, artisan chocolate, locally-roasted coffees, potato and vegetable crisps and dairy ice-cream, craft sodas using local soft fruits and craft beers, to name but a few, or to consume creatively via restaurant menus and home delivery? Or that locally-grown meal box deliveries would be at the all-time high they are (with waiting lists in some areas)? New products using locally-sourced ingredients, often developed with government funding, are being launched almost every day. Interest in home-cooking from scratch is growing. It’s no exaggeration to say there’s a national pride in Scottish produce, producers, farmers, fishers, butchers, growers and chefs that didn’t exist so widely before, and their reputation extends worldwide. This surely is reflected in the number of new Scottish food and cookbooks that are being published every year. The number of independent butchers’ and fishmongers’, grocers, gastropubs, delis and coffee houses are also on the rise.

Balgove Larder

Ardross Farm Shop

“Continuous evolution is the key to a vibrant food culture” Clear provenance, traceability, high welfare, low waste, low food miles, sustainability and seasonality are now all by-words for Scottish food and drink. The eating-out scene has also been transformed by a new generation of progressive Scots who continue to develop dishes using foraged plants and herbs, offal and forgotten cuts of Scotch meat, sous-vide local hare and game birds, fermented mooli, confit egg yolks, bright green spruce oils, fresh herb butters, artisan chocolate with foraged sea buckthorn and blow-torched heritage apples, seaweed crisps, and spelt sourdoughs made with heritage flour grown in Scotland. Seasonality has become key. Shellfish and seafood from our coastal waters, grass-fed native breeds and “nose-to-tail” eating is all the rage here – as it is in Scandi and modern European cuisine.

Food & Drink

Bowhouse Market Arbikie Highland Estate Distillery

Edenmill Farm Shop Fresh produce comes in a wide range of varieties from the burgeoning number of kitchen and market gardens, farmers’ markets and community growing spaces all over the country. Retail outlets are responding. Aldi Scotland, for example, recently scooped 15 awards for its Scottish own-label products and its stated ambition is to expand its work with Scottish suppliers. Farm shops, delis, coffee houses, craft breweries, distillery visitor centres, bakeries, butchers and fishmongers are thriving in all parts of the country. They could not do so if there wasn’t the consumer demand and the government start-up support. Continuous evolution is the key to a vibrant food culture, and among recent influences have been South-east Asian flavours and ingredients – with Scottish-grown seaweeds, plants, spices and grains meeting this rising demand. Plant-forward products and native breeds such as Boreray mutton from Orkney and Native Angus beef are sought-after. Tackling diet-related poor health issues and food poverty is ongoing. The recently-introduced Good Food Nation Bill is aimed at helping ensure good quality, nutritious, healthy and locally sourced and produced food is accessible for people from all walks of life on a daily basis. This includes business, hospitals, schools – anywhere that serves food to the public.

Hand in hand with all of this is the climate change crisis and the need to cut carbon emissions. Scotland is already ahead of the game, having already halved its greenhouse gas emissions over the last 30 years but the aim is to get food and drink businesses to net zero by 2045 at the latest. The Net Zero Commitment, launched during COP26, includes tougher challenges on transport, heating systems, land use and waste reduction. The Circular Economy embraced by Scotland will help dramatically reduce the amount of food waste generated in Scotland. And in its ambitions to be a global leader in sustainable and regenerative agriculture, there has also been significant investment in the manufacturing of a new feed additive in Dalry, Ayrshire, aimed at reducing methane emissions from cattle and sheep by 30%. These are significant steps in a giant leap forward into the future of Scotland’s ongoing food and drink revolution.

Lindores Abbey Distillery

Blackthorn Salt, Ayr Ancient meets modern in what must surely have been one of the most sensational product launches of last year’s lockdown. The mighty and mysterious-looking wood-and-twig structure that sits looking out from the Ayr coastline is the only salt-producing thorn graduation tower in the world. Overlooking the Firth of Clyde across to the Isle of Arran, it has a wonderful story to tell – and not only because it is returning salt-making to an area once renowned for it. Gregorie Marshall, from the Peacock Salt family, launched Blackthorn Salt with his wife Whirly last March. The salt is formed from seawater brought in from Troon trickling down eight metres of horizontally-laid branches of blackthorn, a tree once native to Scotland – the pair intend to reinstate a blackthorn field. The sea water evaporates as it filters through countless twigs and thorns, while filtering out calcium sulphate, so the salt retains about 93%-96% sodium chloride (similar to French sel de gris). Nothing else is added. This, plus the £6.40 price tag for a 240g box, has quickly elevated it to ‘gourmet salt’ status. It won a Great Taste Award this year and is used by top chefs all over the UK and available in most farm shops and delis. Visit: www.blackthornsalt.co.uk

Rora Dairy, Aberdeenshire The 250 Holstein Friesian, Jersey and Norwegian Red cows at Jane and Bruce’s organic Aberdeenshire farm near Peterhead share space with roe deer, foxes, tawny owls, ospreys, thrush and woodcock. Specially created wildlife corridors enable wildlife to travel safely between the streams, rivers and woodlands of the farm. The herd is fed on grass, wheat and barley for rich grazing, and produces over two million litres of milk each year – milked robotically and voluntarily when the animals feel like it. It’s in this natural environment that Rora Dairy organic live, set and Greek-style yogurts are created using pasteurised nonhomogenised milk direct from the farm on the day of production. Skimmed milk powder and live culture are the only additives. “We believe it’s our attention to our cows’ wellbeing and welfare which helps make delicious, gluten-free yogurt,” says Jane. The pair started the business on the 300-year-old family farm in 2017 to produce the yogurt in a variety of flavours using local ingredients such as Aberdeenshire raspberries, strawberries, blueberries and

Jaw Brew, Glasgow The family-run craft brewery in Milngavie, near Glasgow, isn’t just known for its quirky name and the nautical references on its bottles and cans. Its founders, Mark and Alison Hazell and their sons, also had the foresight to open a pub right next to Milngavie train station – meaning it’s as local as it can be. It’s also circular and sustainable. Jaw Brew launched two beers using surplus morning bread rolls from the local Aulds Bakery: the 2% Hardtack and the 4.8% Roller. Next up is a health grain bar called Jaw Chew, using mash byproduct that normally goes for cattle feed. Long before cutting CO2 emissions became the hot topic it is now, Mark and Alison supported the Cut the Carbon movement as far back as 2001. “One of our USPs is that our beer doesn’t have far to travel before being consumed,” said Mark, who was born on Orkney and brought up in Stornoway. “Beer is a live product that doesn’t travel well and we believe ours tastes better as a result.” He’s invested in a new machine that bottles carbonated beer on site to save him having to send it away, thus reducing carbon emissions. And he is also ditching chemical cleaning materials in favour of water, air and electricity. “This produces ozone which kills bacteria and is an active sanitiser,” he explains. “We are always looking at ways to be more circular. We want to be doing the right thing.” Visit: www.jawbrew.co.uk honey. Since then it’s grown to win a Great Taste 2021 Award and is available in some branches of Aldi and Sainsbury’s. Rora Dairy also supplied the recent COP26 UN climate change summit in Glasgow. Jane added: “We are delighted with the results of our work to improve biodiversity and sustainability here. We believe it’s our attention to our cows’ wellbeing and welfare which helps us make our delicious, natural yogurt.” Visit: www.roradairy.co.uk

Food & Drink

Mara Seaweed, Fife Mara Seaweed has been going from strength to strength since it was first conceived in 2003 by Edinburgh foragers Fiona Houston and Xa Milne. Their message that wild harvested seaweed is a hidden “superfood” trickled through to consumers, helped along in 2008 by the pair’s first book, Seaweed and Eat It. The Mara Seaweed brand of seasonings and flakes was launched in 2013, followed by Xa’s The Seaweed Cookbook. Now the range includes Kombu Seaweed Powder, whole-leaf Kelp Seaweed Strips and Furikake. Over time the realisation has really hit home that Scottish seaweed is also sustainable, and protects and nourishes shellfish like crabs and mussels. Seaweed removes toxic carbon from the atmosphere. Kelp, for example, can absorb five times more CO2 than land plants.

Mackie’s of Scotland, Aberdeenshire Provenance has been one of the key USPs of Mackie’s of Aberdeenshire since the family began making ice-cream with milk from their herd of Holstein cows on the fourth-generation farm at Rothienorman in 1986. The 4% butterfat milk is extracted using a “voluntary access milking system” which means the cows access the robotic machines when they feel like it and according to their own natural biorhythms. Potato crisps were added to the range in 2009, when the Mackies joined forces with another fourth-generation farming family in Fife. One of the most enduring flavours has been haggis & cracked black pepper.

Fiona is now looking to scale up Mara’s Fife coastline operation to reach new markets and become completely carbon-negative thanks to a £600,000 grant from the Scottish Government via the Marine Fund Scotland.

The company - one of Scotland’s largest food and drink brands launched a range of chocolate bars in 2016 using raw cacao liquor. Sales have increased by 8% since last year and new packaging features a countryside illustration inspired by the view from the home farm to pay homage to the brand’s heritage and show that this is farm-made chocolate from Scotland.

“Sustainability is the bedrock of Mara Seaweed and seaweed production can play a huge role in reducing carbon reduction targets,” she said, adding: “Wild-harvested seaweed is the vegetable crop of the future.”

Mackie’s has been generating its own wind power for many years with four turbines, solar panels over the cow byre and the chocolate factory and a new spiral freezer to cut the farm’s CO2 emissions by 80%. The installation of a biomass boiler is underway.

Visit: www.maraseaweed.com

Now ‘provenance’ means more than just knowing where the farm is. It also means high animal welfare, sustainability, environmental credentials and the all-important net zero ambitions.

Arbikie Highland Estate Distillery, Angus The catchphrase “field to fork” is familiar to most foodies, but the three brothers at Arbikie have gone one further for drinks aficionados with their “field-to-bottle” slogan. John, David and Iain Stirling, the self-styled “craftsmen of the soil”, have returned to their fourth-generation, 18th-century family farm overlooking Lunan Bay in Angus to build the Arbikie Highland Estate Distillery and make a global name as the producers of spirits made from scratch with ingredients wholly planted, sown, grown and harvested within yards of the distillery – including their own juniper. This 100% traceability is exceptional in the world of spirits where ingredients are traded as global commodities. More recently the brand made history by launching Nadar, the world’s first climate-positive gin and vodka made with peas.

Visit: www.mackies.co.uk The distilling team is led by master distiller Kirsty Black, who said: “Getting the best possible product starts in the field. If you get things right from the beginning, it will continue into the bottle.” Arbikie have launched rye whisky, a single malt is underway, and they are looking at growing older heritage varieties of barley to future-proof the industry. “As a family business we have the flexibility to be innovative and original,” stated John Stirling. Visit: www.arbikie.com

Go Local Three in five consumers now regard the availability of locallysourced products important when shopping. And buying Scottish products has become easier in most supermarkets than ever before. Corner shops and convenience stores are now giving more dedicated display space to locally-sourced products with a bias towards fresh and healthy following a recently-launched Scottish Government initiative called ‘Go Local’, and its initial success means this will be expanded to include a larger pool of retailers. Artisanal locally-produced items with clear provenance are readily available in independent outlets such as farm shops, farmers/ producer markets and delis. How far we have come! Cate Devine takes a whistle-stop tour of just some of them… Orcadians are fortunate to have Jollys of Orkney, the longestablished fish and shellfish merchant family (with its own kiln for smoked products) that has expanded to offer other Orkney food and drink with its main shop in Hatston, new deli in Kirkwall, also an online delivery and hamper service called The Brig Larder. Expect oatcakes by Stockans, biscuits and bakes by the Westray Bakehouse, Grimbister Farm cheeses and fudge and sweets alongside smoked salmon, kippers and mackerel. www.jollysoforkney.co.uk The social enterprise Buth Bharraigh shop and visitor centre at Castlebay, Isle of Barra, is really the centre of the island community. It sells a wide range of products and fresh produce, meat and fish from the isles of Barra and Vatersay and, thanks to the Green Islands Recovery Programme and Zero Waste Scotland, even has a refillery, where you measure dry goods yourself into reusable containers. www.buthbarraigh.co.uk The Greengrocer, Inverurie, is family-owned and proud of retaining the old-fashioned core values of personal service and knowledge of each locally-sourced item. Cold-pressed rapeseed oils from Ola of Inverurie is one example among many, including meats and eggs from local farms, fish from Portsoy, oats and mueslis from Tilquhillie Fine Foods Banchory, and oatmeal from Aberfeldy and Alford; and cheeses from Devenick Dairy, Aberdeen. www.inveruriegreengrocer.co.uk The Cow Shed Farm Shop at Druid Temple Farm, Inverness, is a family-owned business that specialises in beef and lamb from local partnership farms, including venison chorizo from Bogrow Farm. Parsnips are among the locally sourced produce, cheeses, honeys and there are beers by Dog Falls Brewing Co of Inverness. www.druidtemplefarm.co.uk

Craigie’s Farm Balgove Larder, St Andrews, is a hub for locally reared, grown, caught, handmade and prepared foods in the form of a farm shop, butcher, café, steak barn and flower shed. The gorgeous space really does encourage the visitor to linger, taste and buy. www.balgove.com The long-running Craigie’s Farm Shop, founded in South Queensferry in 1966, is run by husband and wife team John and Kirsteen Sinclair, is a farm shop, butchery, café and pick-your-own fruit farm. They also have an online ordering facility. Homemade pork-and-haggis sausage rolls, steak pies, Scottish cheeses, oatcakes, eggs, breads, snacks and homemade jams and preserves are on offer – and the butchery is run by local buffalo farmer Steve Mitchel. www.craigies.co.uk To Falkland in Cupar, Fife, and the stunning Pillars of Hercules certified organic farm shop and café where there’s a wide range of wholefoods, gluten-free and vegetarian products, meat, dairy, dry goods, beers and fresh produce grown on the farm. Bread is by Wild Hearth Bakery in Crieff. They also run a veg box delivery service to Fife and Loch Leven. www.pillars.co.uk Scotmid Co-op, Broxburn has recently installed a new butchery counter run by family business Border Meat in the store. www.scotmid.coop/store/broxburn/ Closer to Glasgow is the family-run Edenmill Farm Shop, Café & Soft Play on the John Muir Way at Blanefield. The butcher’s shop sells products from local farms including on-site dry-aged beef, venison chicken, pork and bacon by Robertson’s of Ardrossan Pork, and eggs by Betty Aitken of Fintry. www.edenmill.co.uk

Kintyre Larder, Campbeltown, is chock-full of foods and beverages from around Argyll. Locally-made chocolates, milk from local farms, Mull of Kintyre cheeses, seasonings from Annie’s Herb Kitchen, Lochgilphead, eggs from Argyll Coffee Roasters, Fyne Ales, beef, pork, Argyll comb honey, Ardfern Cakes, heather honey, and a huge range of fresh produce.

Down the road at Barnhill Farm Shop, Inchinnan, you’ll find products sourced mainly from Renfrewshire. These notably include asparagus grown on the farm when in season, new season apples, duck eggs and free-roaming turkeys from Commore Farm, Neilston. Barnhill also offers vegetable, cheese, dinner and breakfast box delivery. Own-brand salad dressings made locally, Coffee roasted locally by Gatehouse Coffee and Blackthorn Sea Salt Flakes from Ayr are also available.

www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk

www.barnhillboxes.com

MintFig Delicatessen Local produce, fine foods and home baking Seasonal Gifts Available 66 High Street, Musselburgh EH21 7BX www.mintfig.com

Under the Grill with

Gordon Ramsay “Edinburgh was the perfect choice as it holds a very special place in my heart.”

Describe the “completely new vibe” that Bread Street Kitchen promises to bring to Edinburgh?

The first Scottish outlet of Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen & Bar opened recently in St Andrew’s Square, Edinburgh. The Scots-born celebrity chef and restaurateur spoke exclusively to Taste Magazine Scotland during time between recording a TV series in Los Angeles …

It’s about the quality of breaking bread. The last 18 months has been the toughest in the industry but more importantly the toughest for families. BSK will absolutely allow us to once again to celebrate great food in a great atmosphere.

by Cate Devine

And it’s all-day dining. We’re getting rid of that pretentious 12-2pm and 7pm-10pm. Customers vote with their feet and if they vote with their feet they should decide when they want to eat. ‘Vote with your feet, decide when you want to eat.’ That’s f***ing great! Have you noticed changes in the eating-out scene in Scotland? I’ve noticed so much. First of all that chefs, female and male, are prolific and prominent and it’s not about a divide between England and Scotland. We’re united from seeing these chefs on the Great British Menu and the 50 Best Restaurants and seeing what remote locations are doing to the culinary world. It’s so exciting.

Why did you choose Edinburgh as your new Scottish venture?

Hence the reason [for coming to Scotland]. It’s my roots. I’m going back home. So this for me is somewhat unique. We’re not desperately striving to be the best, or the best restaurant in Scotland. We want to be part of the best scene in Scotland.

Our first Bread Street Kitchen in Scotland was either going to be in Glasgow or Edinburgh. Edinburgh holds a very special place in my heart: it was where the Queen awarded my OBE back in 2006. Edinburgh was the perfect choice. There’s something quite energising about it because of the history, the backdrop of the Castle and being surrounded by the most stunning countryside just 20 minutes or so away. And it’s the produce, whether it’s hand-dived scallops from the West Coast of Scotland or the beef or venison from East Lothian or even the local vegetables. But it was also the location. It’s in a great situation and has access to a lot of footfall. It’s important to not be too off the beaten track. And then there’s the competition! I love the fact of the successes, from Dishoom to the Ivy next to us at BSK … it says a lot about what Edinburgh is about, and how thriving it is.

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Chef Profile Do you have plans for future Bread Street Kitchen & Bar openings in Scotland? We do. There’s an ambition to open more. But first I want to focus on getting this one right, from Dan to the team, before announcing anything. BSK Edinburgh’s executive head chef Dan Ashmore, 31, has worked in top fine-dining restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Restaurant Tom Aikens and The Square in London, Michelin-starred Number One at the Balmoral, Dean Banks at The Pompadour in Edinburgh and the Strathearn at Gleneagles Hotel, Perthshire.

a symbiotic relationship, and it adds an extra layer of accountability. Their reputation is as important as ours. Do you get to devise your own dishes? Yes. The core recipes are the same no matter which outlet of BSK you are eating in. That consistency lends a homely feeling. But the head chef of each branch of BSK does their own signature dish to highlight provenance and local.

He describes being appointed executive head chef of Bread Street Kitchen & Bar in Edinburgh as his “dream job”. “Getting the chance to work alongside the person who influenced me to pick up an apron from an early age and start a career as a chef isn’t something that comes along every day,” he said. Most popular dish so far? Most definitely the Beef Wellington [Gordon Ramsay’s signature dish]. In our first week of business we were serving up to 35 a day – even at £48 per person. Is the menu exceptionally expensive, as some commentators have suggested? The prices reflect what we pay for quality ingredients and cooking it with lots of love and care. I’ve paid more and received worse. How important is sourcing Scottish? Very. For me, and for guests, sourcing local is massively important, as is building and maintaining a good relationship with our suppliers. I’m not phoning an anonymous central supplier in London. I communicate every day with our local suppliers. It’s

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Mine is the Cullen Skink with a twist: a touch of whisky, fresh Shetland mussels, curry powder, saffron and proper smoked North Sea haddock – not the fake yellow dyed stuff. We will always do a ‘specials’ option of local dishes. You won’t get that or our West Coast langoustines or haggis bites in London BSKs, for example. Tell us the most important lesson you’ve learned from Gordon Ramsay? “The importance of seasoning. Always taste what you’re cooking and taste as you go,” he replies. “That applies to home cooks too.” Bread Street Kitchen & Bar is at 4 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2BD (www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/bread-streetkitchen/edinburgh/)

Festive Dining

by Stephanie Abbot

As we get older, the festive season means less about receiving gifts and more about those special get-togethers with friends and loved ones. At the centre of those heart-warming moments is delicious food and drink that smacks of indulgence, ceremony and nostalgia. Across Scotland there’s an abundance of locations to enjoy a festive feast and we’ve rounded up a few of our top picks to sink your teeth into over the holiday season.

The Witchery

Even the name instils an immediate sense of magic. Located on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile only a hop skip and a jump from the castle, the rich baroque surroundings of the original 16th century oak-panelled dining room or the candlelit secret garden room offer an incredible setting for dining this December. Created by head chef Douglas Ross, the à la carte menu champions the season, serving everything from roast loin of red deer to baked hand dived Isle of Mull scallops. Steeped in 400 years of history, the red leather seats, original tapestries, antique candlesticks and stone walls transport diners to Christmases of the past while offering a decadent 21st century menu accompanied with an award-winning wine list. Castlehill, The Royal Mile, EH1 2NF

Meldrum House Hotel & Golf Course A glorious blend of old and new: Meldrum House in Aberdeenshire dates to the 13th century. The snug and atmospheric Cave Bar with its stone walls and candlelight, is part of the original manor house and is a cosy spot to enjoy a more casual dining experience and any number of drams from the hotel’s extensive whisky collection. For something a little different, dine in one of the heated domes where you can enjoy 360-degree views of the manor house, estate and Highland cows. Throughout December you can enjoy a festive afternoon tea – which includes white chocolate snowballs, meringue snowman and apple and cinnamon scones – by a roaring log fire in the manor house. For more festive fun, there are also bauble wreath -making classes that include a glass of bubbly, canapes and a three-course lunch or après ski party nights for groups. Old Meldrum, Aberdeenshire, AB51 0AE

The Dreel Tavern

Nestled in the pretty fishing village of Anstruther in the East Neuk of Fife, this 18th century tavern is the perfect antidote to the chill of the winter air. The original stone walls, romantic candlelight and cosy fireplace provide a wonderful setting to enjoy delicious locally sourced fayre. From November, the aroma of the Dreel Tavern’s own mulled wine and hot gin punch fill the air, and a selection of winter warmer drinks - including hot apple and rum, spiced caramel apple and bourbon - are available. Tuck into winter specials like roast chestnut soup and apple pie with cinnamon Crème Anglaise followed by a spiced berry mojito or a mistletoe margarita. Anstruther, Fife, KY10 3DL

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Destination Dining

Cromlix

Located just three miles from Dunblane, Cromlix is a five-star luxurious country house hotel that boasts a Chez Roux restaurant. From the second week in December a special festive menu will be available featuring pâté grand-mère, cranberry chutney and homemade brioche followed by the traditional turkey or perhaps roasted North Sea hake with scallop butter risotto, ending with a mouth-watering chocolate and chestnut yule log. There are a number of Christmas and Hogmanay packages to choose from (subject to availability) in between exploring this fascinating estate dating back to the 15th century. Kinbuck, Stirling, FK15 9JT

Glenapp Castle

Indulge in your own personal fairy-tale by spending Christmas in a castle. Enjoy a decadent meal by a roaring fire in the grand dining room of this five-star luxury hotel in Ballantrae, Ayrshire. Brand-new for this year, the castle’s Azalea Glasshouse and Bothy Restaurant offer a unique dining experience. The former plant ‘hot house’ is home to an array of beautiful 100-year-old vines and fruit trees. Decorated in red, gold, and green throughout the venue you can enjoy a festive lunch, afternoon tea or dinner. The menus include sumptuous dishes like poached and roast breast of turkey with pommes fondant, parsnip puree, bacon and sausage rolls and Santa’s favourite: a reindeer macaron with white chocolate and chestnut ganache. Ballantrae, Ayrshire, KA26 0NZ

Glaschu

Pronounced Glas-a-hoo, the Scottish Gaelic for Glasgow, meaning ‘dear green place’, may have only opened this year but they are gearing up for a busy winter season. Located in the heart of the city within the premises of the Western Club that dates back to 1825, the restaurant offers modern Scottish fine dining and a sophisticated bar. With both a weekend and midweek festive menu on offer, diners can enjoy dishes such as game terrine with damson jelly, roast turkey paupiette and a Christmas pudding sundae plus many more hearty and warming dishes. Head chef Dion Scott celebrates Scottish produce while taking inspiration from the many international influences bestowed upon Glasgow. An extensive wine list and slick selection of cocktails are sure to warm the cockles. 32 Royal Exchange Square, Glasgow, G1 3AB

The Duke’s Umbrella

The perfect place for cosy casual dining situated in the heart of Glasgow, The Duke’s Umbrella is known for its excellent gastro-pub grub and extensive range of innovative and delicious cocktails. With tinsel, stockings and crackers galore, diners can tuck into a festive lunch or dinner menu that includes dishes like charcoal grilled haunch of venison, Dukes’ hot smoked salmon or vegan options like curried cauliflower soup and lentil loaf. Why not finish with a sinfully sweet pumpkin spice crème brûlée or a spiced gingerbread trifle? To ensure 2022 does not begin on an empty stomach, diners can also book to enjoy a five-course meal finished with a dram of Glenlivet before seeing in the new year. (Subject to availability) 363 Argyle Street, Glasgow, G2 8LT

The Dome

Possibly one of the most photographed buildings in Scotland during the festive season, The Dome in Edinburgh is something of a Christmas wonderland, with its jaw dropping decorations and gravity-defying tree taking centre stage as soon as you walk through its doors. A festive a la carte menu and set menu are available to be enjoyed in either the stunning Grill Room or Georgian Tea Room, although bookings are currently full from 29th November until Christmas Eve. However, the holiday spirit carries on until January 2nd and eager diners can still enjoy a festive morning tea in The Club Room indulging in gingerbread and chocolate Christmas granola, boozy bagel French toast or a pancake with cranberry syrup and winter spiced berries. 14 George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2PF

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Distillery

Distillery Spotlight: Crabbie’s By Gavin D Smith Back in the 19th century when Edinburgh’s Port of Leith was at the epicentre of the whisky blending universe, one of the best-known names was that of importer, distiller, blender and bottler John Crabbie & Co, also famous for its eponymous Crabbies Green Ginger Wine. Now, after a long absence, Crabbie’s have returned to Leith, distilling single malt whisky and offering some fine independent releases while they wait for their own whisky to come of age. Since 2007 Crabbie’s has been in the ownership of Halewood Artisanal Spirits, who have given the brand a new lease of life, courtesy of its high-profile alcoholic ginger beer. However, the company decided it wanted to reconnect Crabbie’s with whisky and its Edinburgh birthplace and to that end established the pilot Chain Pier distillery in Granton, three miles from Leith, in 2018. This became the first distillery to make malt whisky in the city since the closure of Glen Sciennes in 1925, and gave the team the chance to experiment on a small scale with a variety of recipes and cask types.

Bonnington Distillery All along, however, the plan was to create a full-blown plant in Leith close to where Crabbie’s original Bonnington distillery had been situated, and a site in Graham Street was acquired. The whisky and ginmaking facility created there was duly christened Bonnington distillery. The first spirit flowed from the pair of copper pot stills in March 2020, and the man charged with overseeing production is distillery manager Jamie Lockhart. “We hope to have our first release out in about 14 months,” he declares. “We have a young team of seven distillers and we’re doing 12 mashes per week, meaning we can make half a million litres of spirit per annum. That’s a big amount from a small site. We’re aiming for a style of whisky as it might have been in the time of John Crabbie, and each year we will make heavily peated spirit for two months.” He explains that “We are at the point of playing around with what we get off the stills and see how it works in different woods,” and the on-site warehouse contains Pedro Ximinez and Oloroso sherry casks, and rum, port and Chateau Margeaux wine casks, as well as the more obvious ex-bourbon barrels. Jamie notes that “We filled cask number 4,000 in October, which was sooner than we’d expected, and I’m very happy now with our ‘newmake.’ The red wine casks are working really well with the unpeated spirit and the port casks with peated spirit.” For those keen to sample the whisky being made at Bonnington, a tasting room will be open by appointment in 2022, and eventually a visitor centre will be developed.

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Distillery

Master Blender If Jamie Lockhart is the man tasked with ensuring a plentiful supply of high-quality spirit flows from Bonnington, the person whose responsibility it is to help re-establish the Crabbie’s brand of whisky is master blender Dr Kirstie McCallum. She points out that: “We wanted more body than in a traditional Lowland single malt – between a Lowland and a Highland. The newmake spirit is quite sweet, with biscuit and honey notes. “We’re doing more with special editions and limited releases, hopefully, four to six per year, to get something out there to show what Crabbie’s is about. We are an independent bottler, after all, and I can play about, take whiskies and finish them in different casks and so on. “One experiment we’ve done is to finish a Highland single malt from bourbon wood in a Ramandolo sweet white Italian wine cask. It’s a work in progress at the moment and I’m carefully monitoring it, but all being well, we’d hope to release it around June.” Kirstie’s first limited edition is a 22-year-old single malt from an undisclosed Orkney distillery that might just be Highland Park. After initial maturation in bourbon wood, it has been finished for six months in a Palo Cortado sherry cask. “We also have 10, 12 and 18-yer-old limited releases to come,” she notes, “with finishing taking place In Barolo and Tokaji dessert wine casks to name but two. And In January, to coincide with Burns’ Night, we’re launching a three-year-old matured in a virgin oak cask from the Chain Pier pilot distillery in Granton – the first single malt distilled in Edinburgh to be bottled for around 100 years!” The resurgence of Crabbie’s as a vibrant whisky brand and a return to distilling in its original home of Leith are very welcome aspects of Edinburgh’s ongoing whisky renaissance and definitely worth raising a glass to!

Tasting Panel Yardhead Single Malt – 40%abv - £26 Crabbie’s original premises were located at Yardheads in Leith, hence the name of this relatively youthful whisky from an unspecified Highland distillery. Ideal for mixing - try it in a Whisky Mac with Crabbie’s Alcoholic Ginger Beer. The nose offers vanilla, lemon and light oak, with notes of toffee apple and toast, malt and spice on the palate.

John Crabbie was born in Edinburgh in December 1806, the son of an upholsterer, and went on to become one of the great pioneers of Scotch whisky blending and a highly respected member of the industry. The company of John Crabbie & Co offered a variety of blended Scotches under ‘The Celebrated Elephant Brand’ banner, due to the founder’s fascination with the creatures, and an elephant motif still features on every Crabbie’s bottle.

Crabbie 12-year-old Speyside Single Malt – 40%abv – £32 Sourced from an undisclosed Speyside distillery, this bourbon caskmatured dram is a classic of its kind, with vanilla, nuts, spice and apple notes on the nose, while the palate is warming, with orchard fruits, cinnamon and vanilla. Crabbie 22-year-old Orkney Single Malt - 47.5%abv - £TBA This is a single cask bottling, finished in a Palo Cortado sherry cask, and the result is a delicious, rich, full-bodied whisky, featuring stewed fruits, spice and honey. Mildly smoky and savoury.

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Recipes

Pork Christmas Trimmings Traybake

PREP 35 MIN

COOKING 1 HR

COOKS 4 PORTIONS

Ingredients: 4 x 200g chunky 2.5cm thick pork chops, trimmed

DIRECTIONS: 1.

Put the carrots into a large saucepan, cover with water, add a pinch of salt and bring to the boil. Cover and cook for 3 minutes.

Add the potatoes, bring to the boil and cook for 5 minutes before adding the parsnips to cook for 2 minutes. Drain well and leave to cool.

Preheat the oven to 200°C. In a bowl, mix 3 tbsp oil and all the cranberry sauce (except 1 tbsp) together.

Line the vegetables on a large, lined baking tray and brush with the cranberry oil paste. Season lightly, sprinkle with sage and bake for 25 minutes.

Lightly season the pork chops. Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan and fry them for 2 minutes. Reserve the pan juices and mix it with the remaining cranberry sauce. Brush it over the chops. Bake for another 20 minutes until the chops are cooked through.

To serve, pile the vegetables in a large warm serving dish, with the pork chops on top. Discard the used sage, add gravy and extra sauce with fresh sage on top.

350g carrots, peeled and sliced lengthways 450g baby potatoes, scrubbed and quartered 350g parsnips, peeled and sliced lengthways 4 tbsp Scottish rapeseed oil 10g cranberry sauce 225g brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 200g shallots, peeled and thick sliced A few sprigs of fresh sage

Locally Sourced Meat: QMS (Quality Meat Scotland) have served the nation well, promoting locally sourced, high quality cuts of meat which can be traced from farm to table. With this focus in mind, it is no wonder their range of farms and producers continue to serve and offer only the best tasting range of meat. However, it is also important to know the best ways to prepare them for a range of dishes. Here we have a sure-fire favourite recipe to try over the festive season.

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RECIPE FROM: Scotch Kitchen, QMS

Recipes

PREP 15 MIN

COOKING

Haggis Bon Bons

5 MIN

COOKS 12 PORTIONS

Ingredients 454g Simon Howie Original Haggis 250g breadcrumbs 3 tbsp plain flour 3 eggs, beaten Vegetable oil for frying

Based in the heart of Perthshire, Simon Howie Foods is one of the leading producers of haggis in Scotland. With their various award-winning products including a Great Taste Award in 2021, Simon Howie offers a variety of haggis creations including vegetarian and gluten free varieties so everyone can enjoy the traditional Scottish delicacy. Celebrate in style at Hogmanay or Burns Night in January with your own creative take on the traditional haggis offering by serving up Haggis Bon Bons.

DIRECTIONS 1.

Gently break up the haggis with a fork or in a food processor by pulsing for a few seconds

Take a small amount of haggis in your hands, approximately 25g, and roll them into individual balls

In separate bowls, lay out the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs

Roll the balls in the plain flour, dip into the eggs and finish with a coat of breadcrumbs.

In the Oven: Heat your oven to 180°C. Wrap your haggis in tin foil to make sure it is moist and place in a casserole dish. Add a little hot water to the tray and pop in the oven for approximately one hour.

Repeat the egg and breadcrumb dip for a good, overall covering

Take your vegetable oil and fill a good chunk in a saucepan. Deep fry the Haggis Bon Bons until golden brown.

On the Stove: Wrap the haggis in tin foil and prepare a large saucepan of cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer gently, taking care not to break the outer casing – it can create a mess! Gently cook for approximately one hour.

Serve with a sauce of your choice and enjoy.

Ways to Prepare Haggis: Haggis is the staple ingredient of a Burns Night supper, when Scots the world over come together to commemorate the life of the Scottish bard Robert Burns with an evening of poetry, haggis and whisky. Although haggis may seem difficult to prepare it is surprisingly simple as long as you keep the outer casing on! Here we share some different methods of preparing haggis:

Be sure to ask your local butcher for cooking times as appropriate to the weight of the haggis that you buy.

RECIPE FROM: Simon Howie

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Recipes

PREP 20 MIN

Cock-a-Leekie Soup

COOKING 1 HR 50 MINS

COOKS 4 PORTIONS

Ingredients: 3 whole chicken legs or 6 drumsticks 700ml-1 litre water Chicken stock cube (optional)

DIRECTIONS: 1.

At 200°C roast the chicken pieces for around 30 minutes

Place the chicken in a heavy bottomed pot along with any juices which have come out.

Pour over the water until the chicken is covered, add the stock cube if desired.

Bring to the boil and then simmer for 1 hour to achieve a hearty chicken stock.

Add in the leeks, carrots, onions, prunes, thyme, bay leaf, a good grinding of pepper and half a teaspoon of salt. Cook until the vegetables are tender, around 20 minutes.

Remove the chicken, take the meat from the bones and stir the pieces back into the soup.

Discard the bones and the herbs, check for seasoning and add more if necessary

Serve with bread of your choice and enjoy.

1 onion chopped 2 leeks sliced 2 carrots chopped 12 prunes chopped 2 sprigs thyme 1 bay leaf Salt and pepper Bread, to serve

History:

Cock-a-Leekie soup is a traditional Scottish recipe dating back to the 16th century when the earliest written recipe was recorded. It is thought to have possibly originated in France when leeks were used instead of onions in their traditional French Onion soup. The Scottish name is a shortened twist on chicken and leek. It is easy to see (and taste) why this beautifully simple soup is considered Scotland’s National Soup as it harvests the best flavours of chicken, leeks and prunes – the three main ingredients. While this particular recipe is from Scots Larder, a blog from Scots food lover and cook Graeme Taylor, there are various other herbs which can be added. This is the perfect soup to warm you up if you’ve been ‘first footing’ at Hogmanay or to offer guests as a starter on Burns Night.

@tastemagscotland

RECIPE FROM: Scots Larder

Recipes

PREP 20 MIN

COOKING

Lobster Thermidor

10 MIN

COOKS 4 PORTIONS

Ingredients 2 whole cooked lobster, meat removed and shells cleaned 2 tbsp butter

Provided by Love Seafood who focus on bringing Scottish seafood to a wider audience with delicious and easy-to-follow recipes.

DIRECTIONS

2 shallots, finely minced 1 garlic clove, minced

Melt the butter in a high-sided frying pan. Add the shallots and garlic and gently cook for a few minutes until softened.

Add the flour, whisk to combine and cook for a further 2 minutes.

Add the white wine then slowly whisk in the milk. Bring up to the boil then immediately reduce the heat to simmer for a few minutes until the sauce has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Slowly add the cream, stirring until combined.

Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan, Gruyere, mustard and parsley. Season with black pepper and allow the cheese to melt before folding in the chopped lobster meat.

Fill the shells evenly with the mixture and place them on a baking sheet under a preheated grill for 8 -10 minutes, or until the mixture is bubbling.

Garnish with a little parsley and serve with the lemons.

2 tbsp plain flour 2 tbsp dry white wine 175ml milk 50ml double cream 100g Parmesan cheese, grated 50g Gruyere cheese, grated Handful of chopped parsley, plus extra to garnish 1 tbsp Dijon mustard Black pepper Lemons, to serve

Glamorous Dinner: For an extra special seafood dish which will work well on your festive table or as a treat at Hogmanay, this recipe is a delicious treat. Bring class, sophistication and the best of Scottish seafood to your table with Lobster Thermidor.

RECIPE FROM: Love Seafood

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Recipes

PREP 45 MIN

Clootie Dumpling

COOKING Photo From: JJ Greig

3 HRS 10 MIN

COOKS 4 PORTIONS

Ingredients: Butter for greasing 175g fresh white breadcrumbs 175g self-raising flour (plus extra for dusting) 175g suet 100g dark brown sugar

Michelle Maddox owns the fantastic company Clootie McToot Dumplings based in Abernethy Perth. Although she wouldn’t divulge her granny’s secret recipe passed down the generations, she was able to share a slightly different recipe along with some tips and tricks to making the perfect clootie dumpling at home.

DIRECTIONS: 1.

Put a large pan of water on to boil with an upturned plate in the base.

In a large mixing bowl, tip the breadcrumbs, flour, suet, sugar, salt, bicarbonate of soda, mixed spice, cinnamon, ginger and various dried fruit (don’t forget to go foraging in your local area for a truly traditional clootie dumpling!) and mix altogether. In another bowl, whisk the treacle or syrup with the milk and egg using a fork. Make sure it is well blended. Then carefully tip the bowl into the one with the dried ingredients and mix together with a standard cutlery blade to create a soft dough.

½ tsp salt 1 tsp mixed spice 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 200g dried fruit, such as currants, sultanas, berries 2 tbsp black treacle or golden syrup 150 ml milk 1 large egg

Ensure your clootie (or cloth) is warm and has been pre boiled. Spread the cloot on a clean work surface and sprinkle evenly with flour.

Place your dough in the centre of the cloot. Gather the cloot and tie at the top with the string. Make sure the string is nice and tight, so water doesn’t get in.

Skelp (or smack) your cloot for luck then lower the clootie into a pan of simmering water, cover with a lid and boil it for 3 hours or until firm. Be sure to keep an eye on the water level and top off, if necessary, as the clootie must be fully immersed.

Heat the oven to 150°C. Tip the pudding into a colander to drain and carefully peel away the clootie and parchment. Place the clootie in an ovenproof dish and bake in the oven for 10 mins to dry off and create that classic skin. (You’re not cooking it again, just creating a beautiful skin.) Serving suggestions include custard or, if you feel fancy, you can flambee it.

Food Grade Muslin Cloth String

The Clootie Dumpling is a traditional steamed Scottish pudding made with dried fruit and spices and often served at Christmas or on Burns Night with a wee dram and custard. A clootie is the name of the piece of cloth that is used to wrap the pudding. Although the recipe was first published in 1747, the enigmatic clootie dumpling had been around for generations beforehand with each family from Scotland having their own recipe. That means that the pudding was different depending on what ingredients could be gathered in the local vicinity and each recipe was a closely guarded family secret.

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RECIPE FROM: Michelle Maddox, Clootie McToot Dumplings

Recipes

PREP 10 MINS

COOKING

Hot Toddy

NONE

COOKS 2 PORTIONS

Ingredients 300ml hot water steeped with black tea 1 cinnamon stick 1 ginger piece, peeled and sliced 1 lemon peel 60ml Crabbie’s Yardhead Whisky 2 tbsp lemon juice Squeeze of Scottish honey

A Festive Favourite: We at Taste HQ are not going to claim that a Hot Toddy is the be all and end all wonder cure for winter colds and other ailments but we know for sure it is one of the most amazing hot drinks ever invented! You really come to appreciate it once the temperature drops, the festive lights come on and the jingles take over the airwaves. One of the most famous versions of the drink is the Scotch Whisky Hot Toddy using the traditional recipe of whisky, sugar and hot water. Some claim that the origin of the name comes from the freshwater ‘Todian’ spring located at the side of Edinburgh’s iconic Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park. We feel it is only right then to use a Crabbie’s Yardhead Whisky from their Bonnington Distillery in Leith which will soon release the first Single Malt Whisky in the city in over 100 years.

Feel free to explore different taste variations using different whiskies, from the more delicate Lindores Abbey Whisky to one packing a punch like the 10-year-old peat-smoked offering from The Glenturret. We chose Crabbies as the balance of flavour doesn’t get lost in the spices, nor does it overpower the blend. Whisky is there to be enjoyed how you like it, don’t let anyone tell you any different. Although most of the hot toddy recipes use water as their base, we used Rosevear’s Christmas Tea which contains black tea, citrus peels, chopped almonds, cloves, rose petals, vanilla and cardamom seeds. A perfectly balanced compliment.

DIRECTIONS 1.

Firstly we make the tea and allow for the hot water to steep for 3-4 minutes brew time before

Add the cinnamon stick, ginger, lemon peel over a low heat, gently bringing it to a simmer. Simmer for 2 minutes

Add 30ml of whisky to each mug or glass

Pour the spiced tea over the whisky. Add the lemon juice and honey. (We like to use Gingerbread spiced honey from the Edinburgh Honey Co.)

Garnish with a lemon peel, orange peel, cinnamon stick or a little grated nutmeg

RECIPE FROM: Taste Magazine Director, Sean McMahon

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Recipes

PREP 2 HRS

Venison Wellington

COOKING 1 HR

COOKS 4 PORTIONS

Ingredients: Red Venison Tenderloin from Woodmill Game 1 tsp olive oil Salt and Pepper 400g button mushrooms

DIRECTIONS: 1.

2. 3.

Preheat a frying pan on high heat. Sear the venison on all sides for two minutes. Remove from the pan and allow the tenderloin to rest on the board for 20 minutes

Blitz the mushrooms and thyme in a food processor until it is paté consistency

Wipe the pan clean, then fry the crushed garlic and mushroom paté together on a low heat. Cook until there is no moisture left in the pan.

On a clean worktop, dust flour across and roll out the pastry into a rectangle shape the length of the tenderloin piece. Spread the mushroom paté across the pastry and be sure to leave a good inch around the edges for folding and sealing

Brush the tenderloin with Dijon mustard and place on top of the mushroom paté on side of the pastry

Carefully roll the pastry around the venison and crimp the pastry edges together with a fork to seal it well

Transfer onto a baking tray, brush the pastry with egg yolk and cook in a preheated oven of 180°C for 30 minutes. Leave a little longer if you prefer the meat medium.

Leaves from 1 thyme sprig 2 garlic cloves, crushed Plain flour for dusting 1 tsp Dijon mustard 500g of ready rolled puff pastry 2 egg yolks, beaten

Scotland’s Best:

Based in Lindores in Fife, Woodmill Game are purveyors of wild game who sell their products across Scotland and the UK. Highlights of their product range include venison and black pudding sausages, venison kebabs, partridge and tarragon pies, whisky & ginger pheasant breasts. Venison is often undervalued as a meat yet it is a sustainable product and a wonderfully high protein, low fat and natural food source. Woodmill Game has given Taste Magazine a seasonal venison game recipe that would make a wonderful change and look fantastic on any festive table.

Remove the venison from the fridge 1 hour before cooking and allow to sit at room temperature out the package to ensure the meat cooks evenly On a board, massage the olive oil, salt and pepper into the tenderloin

10. Serve with redcurrant and red wine RECIPE FROM: Woodmill Game

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DIGITAL EXCLUSIVE

In Season

As the last of the autumn leaves fade away and the temperatures dip heralding in the winter season there is always new seasonal produce on offer. While the harshness of the colder months narrows down the selection, there’s still some great seasonal products to try and more unusual ingredients out there that might inspire you to create some new dishes. Sonny Neil

Seafood Fix For those seeking your seafood fix, haddock and monkfish are the prime targets to look out for. Having a sweeter taste than most fish, haddock tastes excellent when smoked. Why not make some Arbroath smokies which are small, dry salted and hot smoked haddock. Monkfish aren’t exactly the prettiest fish out there but you won’t have to worry about that as typically only their tails are sold. The tails have a firm and meaty texture that is quite similar to langoustines.

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Versatile Veggies Jerusalem artichoke and kale are our top vegetable choices for the season. Jerusalem artichoke works with many other ingredients. Whether it’s in soups, or paired with fish or game this vegetable is versatile. Whilst kale is rich in vitamins and works well in salads, roasts or even as a pizza topping.

Meat these options While chicken and turkey rule the roost at Christmastime, there are alternative options that can be just as delicious. Pheasant is the most common game bird in the UK and, as such, is notably cheaper than the typical farm-reared chicken. However, the price does not dictate quality as pheasant breast tastes great and is a great substitute for chicken in stir-fries or curries. Another fantastic choice is duck and competes with turkey for the crown of best roast. While some extra effort will be needed to trim the fat – duck is a naturally fatty meat – the work will be worth it if you want to wow the family this holiday season.

Forager’s finds It’s going to be cold out there but don’t let that stop you from foraging this winter. Start your adventures by hunting for some sweet chestnuts. This tasty winter staple can be baked or boiled for a delicious side dish or snack. Also keep an eye out for garlic mustard on your travels. The leaves of this plant are a great addition to some homemade sauces or salads, but make sure not to use too many.

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Feast Your Way Around Fife

By Sean McMahon

Exploring Fife’s flourishing food, drink and hospitality scene on an ultimate food-focussed road trip Scottish adventurer John McDouall Stuart was a hugely successful and famous explorer who led the first expedition from the south to north Australia in the mid 19th century. Bear with me if you haven’t immediately worked out the connection with Fife! McDouall Stuart was born in Dysart, situated just east of Kirkcaldy in Fife, before emigrating Down Under. Although my expedition was certainly not in the same magnitude or difficulty as his intrepid journey into the unexplored hinterland, this was my first expedition to Fife where I was going to spend three days sampling some of the best food, drink and hospitality that the Kingdom of Fife has to offer. And, where better to base myself on in my gourmet adventure than staying at the historic house in Dysart where McDouall Stuart was born. Surrounded on three sides by a stunning coastline with an array of picturesque villages and beaches, the ancient Kingdom of Fife is an outstanding place to visit, enjoy and explore. Famous for being the home of golf, Fife’s varied landscape is the perfect home to an abundance of wildlife and a fabulous natural larder. There are also vivid reminders of the area’s historic importance in the wealth of castles, palaces, and abbeys. Having lived in Edinburgh for the past two years, with travel restricted due to lockdowns, every opportunity that presents itself to head out of the city and explore Scotland, I embrace wholeheartedly. Just heading over the Queensferry Crossing that spans the Firth of Forth, my excitement is palpable. Arriving in less than 45 minutes, my wife and I had time to stop off at The Harbourmaster’s Cafe in Dysart for tea and delicious peanut butter and choc chip cookies. Housed in a lovely stone building overlooking one of Fife’s oldest harbours, which stood in for the French port of Le Havre in the Outlander television series, we enjoyed wonderful views across the quaint harbour to the Firth of Forth. We instantly switched to holiday mode. Booked through Fife Historic Buildings Trust, we checked into the John McDouall Stuart View, a sensitively restored white-washed apartment where the explorer was born in 1815. With plenty of period character, the light-filled spacious one-bedroom contemporary-styled apartment offers panoramic views across the Forth and was the perfect place to relax after a day’s eating!

The Buffalo Farm

Dysart Harbour Keen to start our exploration, we left our ‘base camp’ for The Buffalo Farm near Kirkcaldy that is home to Scotland’s largest herd of water buffalo that roam the surrounding hills. Today, alongside the farm, there is an excellent cafe and farm shop selling not only their own meat and mozzarella that is also sold at Blacketyside and Craigie’s farm shops but also a wide range of local produce. We purchased some East Neuk of Fife Smoked Oatcakes from G H Barnett & Son along with a tomato & ginger savoury jam from the mother and daughter duo at Kassells Kitchen. A fine start for our take-home taste test. We then sat down for lunch at The Bothy, where we enjoyed warming homemade tomato and pepper soup, ideal on a dreich day. However, the smell and sizzle from the Buffalo burgers seemingly put us into a trance-like state and it wasn’t long before we were sitting in their open barn with a buffalo burger in one hand followed swiftly by a salted caramel ice cream made with buffalo milk in the other! The benefits of water buffalo, we were reliably told, are countless. They produce a healthy meat that is lower in cholesterol and less than half the total fat content of conventional lean beef, and in the words of Chef Nick Nairn, it tastes, “pretty damn fantastic.” Our next stop was to see where they make their famous Buffalo mozzarella and have a chat with the owner Steve Mitchell. The Buffalo Farm began with a small herd in 2005 with them selling their meat at local markets until a chance visit from Chef Gordon Ramsay who declared it was delicious. This spurred them on to expand the business. Their mozzarella contains only buffalo milk and has a mild saltiness on the outside. It passed our squeeze test having that perfect texture with a slight ooze of milk. We were given a tour around the production floor and saw some of the herd, complete with their custom-made mattresses and back scratchers!

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Food Tourism

After a brisk walk along a part of the famous Fife Coastal Path back in Dysart, it was time for our next foodie destination. And this wasn’t going to be any dinner but a seven-course gourmet extravaganza at The Orangery restaurant located at the magnificent Balbirnie House Hotel. For our in-depth restaurant review, please go to our hospitality review on page 57. Day two started with a visit to the Bowhouse Food Weekend. Sitting on the road between Elie and St Monans, the monthly market weekends take place in a covered barn and showcases local produce, crafts and street food vendors. We met lots of growers, producers and makers under one roof and we added plenty of items to our takehome collection. These included some artisan bread and cheeses from St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese and Strathearn Cheese companies, Raspberry Cordial and Blackberry Jam from Alice’s Kitchen and some Pheasant and Ginger sausages from Woodmill Game. One of our favourite stalls was East Coast Cured, where we purchased some gourmet sausage rolls. There was so much else on offer from cheesecakes, craft beers, langoustine to a wide variety of vegetables.

Bowhouse Food Weekend

The Ship Inn

The Cocoa Tree As Ardross Farm Shop was just along the road we felt it was our duty to pop in. We were greeted with the most beautifully-laid out vegetable selection we’ve ever seen and the shop sets the bar high on stocking locally sourced products and supporting independent producers. It is like an Aladdin’s Cave stocked with some of the finest Scottish produce and lots of moreish treats. We picked up some local chestnuts and butter from Knockraich Farm. Just a little further on from Ardross is the stunning seaside village of Elie. After a walk around the harbour, we stopped off for coffee at Nosebag@Elie, a harbourside cafe serving sandwiches, and homebaking, before taking a leisurely walk around the lighthouse and the ruins of Lady’s Tower. An Elie institution, our lunchtime destination was at The Ship Inn, famed not only for its food, al fresco terrace but also its beach cricket matches! My wife opted for the grilled lemon sole served with Shetland blue shell mussels, pommes purée, garlic butter, capers and samphire. For myself, I choose the Black Isle sirloin bourguignon with baby carrots, mushrooms and mashed potato. Both dishes certainly hit the spot and were cooked to perfection.

Elie Ness Lighthouse

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After lunch we explored the delightful East Neuk fishing villages of Crail, St Monans and Pittenweem, where we popped in to The Cocoa Tree to try two of their signature hot chocolates - Pink Salt & Caramel and Hazelnut Praline - and sample some of their amazing handmade chocolates. Dinner that evening was at The Balgove Steak Barn situated on the edge of St Andrews. See page 60 for the full review.

Pillars of Hercules On the last day of our expedition, we headed to The Newport Bakery near the River Tay shoreline and is run by Jamie Scott who was the winner of Masterchef: The Professionals in 2014. Everywhere we looked there was sweet temptation in the form of cinnamon swirls, clementine white choc cruffins, puffnuts (a croissant puff pastry/ doughnut creation) and apple choux pastries. We finally plumped for an almond croissant and a caramel apple crumble carré. The shop also stocks a wide variety of products from other Scottish producers including Trodden Black’s Dead Hot sauces and their Chilli Death Jam! Our next stop was the Pillars of Hercules, where you’ll find a campsite, bothy, farm shop and cafe situated just outside the historic palace town of Falkland. After ticking off a few more acquisitions, bottles of apple juice and a gingerbread-infused honey from the Edinburgh Honey Company, we had a very relaxed snack of vegetarian pasties sitting around a fire pit in their outdoor dining area. For whisky lovers a pilgrimage to Lindores Abbey Distillery is a must. Steeped in history, it is documented that the first official reference to whisky distilling was recorded there in 1494. Restarting their whisky production in 2017, Lindores Abbey Distillery now offers both a delicate Lindores Lowland Single Malt Scotch Whisky and their award-winning Aqua Vitae botanical spirit featuring spices, dried fruit, local Douglas fir and sweet cicely. The owner Drew recounted the long fascinating history of the abbey as he showed us around the distillery, apothecary, the first-floor bar that benefits from some amazing views over the abbey grounds out towards the River Tay. The distillery offers an amazing array of experiences including cocktail-making classes, decadent afternoon teas, whisky and chocolate pairing and bespoke dinners. At the end of our incredible foodie road trip to Fife, we felt we’d only just scraped the surface in discovering the most amazing local produce and ingredients whether it was in a farm shop, bakery or served up in a top-notch restaurant. We came swiftly to the conclusion that a return journey is needed as there is so much more to sample and consume. Furthermore there are so many more wonderful places to visit whether they are on the beautiful East Neuk coastline or in the heart of the fertile pastures of the Kingdom of Fife countryside.

The Newport Bakery

Lindores Abbey Distillery

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Scottish Larder Cullisse Highland Rapeseed Oil For those looking for a delicious and sustainable rapeseed oil for their cooking, look no further. Cullisse Highland cold pressed Rapeseed Oil is one of the most highly acclaimed in the Scottish Highlands with its micro-climate and rich fertile soils. It can be used for baking, frying and with its buttery taste, is the perfect accompaniment in dressings and for dipping. Taste notes can vary between hints of asparagus, pea shoots and even a slight nuttiness. cullisse.com £7.50 for 500ml

Hebridean Mustard Company Christmas Edition This season, spice up your festive table with a limited edition seasonal mustard. Made with festive spices including cinnamon, cardamom, clove, aniseed, ginger, coriander and mace, this is the perfect mustard to try with a traditional turkey or a seasonal pheasant. Add a small spread on a leftover sandwich or add to a cheese or cold meat platter to give a little flavouring and colour to the offering. hebrideanmustard.com £6.50 for 120g

JAMES OF ARRAN CHOCOLATE BOXES For those looking for a different chocolate selection this season, try James of Arran chocolate boxes. Created on the Isle of Arran to the west of Scotland, this beautiful chocolate shop has been crafting the finest chocolates for 20 years. Sample luscious delights such as Champagne, Strawberry Cremes and Hazelnut Praline. A wonderful selection for this season to amaze guests and family with a Scottish chocolate box. jamesofarran.com £14.25 for 200g

Cranberry Sauce with Port Located in Arbroath, Scotland, Mrs Bridges condiments are a name acquainted with luxury due to the high-quality of ingredients and beautiful array of jams, chutneys and sauces. The delightful twist on a classic is the perfect pairing any time of the year, but for Christmas a jar of Cranberry Sauce infused with the rich sweetness of port is a Scottish favourite for the table. Apply delicately or lavishly according to your taste for the mains but don’t be afraid to bring this jar back out for the cheese and cracker course. mrsbridges.co.uk £3.25 for 250g

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Product Reviews

ST ANDREWS FARMHOUSE ANSTER CHEESE St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese is renowned for its hard cheeses produced using traditional methods and with its delicate flavour combination, this cheese is a must-have to try this season. With a crumbly texture popular in the area and aged up to four months, the flavour is mild yet complex with a fresh citrus note and an earthy rounded mouthful. Be sure to choose this one for the cheeseboard on Christmas Day. standrewscheese.co.uk £5.35 for 200g

SHORTBREAD HOUSE OF EDINBURGH, ASSORTED Once the great feasts have been consumed, a sweet treat is in order. These shortbreads are a family favourite as they are the perfect delicious combination of crispy, sweet and buttery. This traditional Scottish treat has won over 100 Great Taste awards so be sure to try the range of flavours including Stem Ginger or Dark Chocolate and Orange. shortbreadhouse.co.uk £6.50 for 140g

PERTHSHIRE OATCAKES CRACKED BLACK PEPPER Perthshire Oatcakes are from the Handmade Oatcake Company and come in a variety of deliciously flavoured varieties including chilli, cheese and traditional. Using recipes passed down through the centuries, each oatcake is made with 100% Scottish oats from the heart of Banffshire countryside. The Cracked Black Pepper is an exceptional oatcake to have with a cheese course as it has a warming after taste and pairs perfectly with mature cheddar or Anster cheese. thehandmadeoatcakecompany.co.uk £1.60 for 150g

WOODMILL GAME STUFFED PHEASANT AND VENISON, PORT AND CRANBERRY SAUSAGES This Christmas, add two new meat treats to your table. Try a stuffed pheasant which will be a unique alternative to a classic turkey or the Venison, Port and Cranberry sausages as a special occasion dish. Both are in-season products from the Fife-based company that will be a unique addition to your Christmas table. Woodmill Game products are 100% wild to explore and showcase the best of Scottish game. woodmillgame.co.uk £14.50 for approx. 800g / £8 for approx. 450g

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Product Reviews

ROOTS SODA LOVEBUG AND I NEED MY GIRL Based in Edinburgh, this one-of-a-kind soda company offers innovative non-alcoholic drinks with intriguing flavours not found anywhere else. Lovebug is an apple, celery and cardamom soda fit for the holidays, while I Need My Girl is a mix of rose, beetroot and pink grapefruit. Both contain no concentrates, artificial flavours or colours, and are handmade. A totally different drink perfect for a Hogmanay (or New Year’s) party, amaze your guests with a refreshingly unique drink. rootssoda.co.uk £11.90 for pack of 6

SAVORA DRINKS Savora Drinks have an extraordinary concept – a mixer created specifically for tequila. This premium mixer won a Great Taste Award 2021 and uses locally sourced ingredients along with sustainable packaging. In their quest to rewrite the Tequila’s story, their first mixer is ‘zesty lime and sweet agave’ as a nod to the classic flavours associated with the fiery Tequila. savoradrinks.com £1.60 for 200ml

GAEL SPIRITS GIN This delightfully Scottish gin follows all the traditional tasting notes of Scotland. This their Signature Scottish gin uses botanicals along with a hint of Scottish heather for a result that has a warm juniper and cardamom finish. The Gael is distilled five times from malted barley at Strathleven Distillery in Dumbarton, and is a wonderful gin to enjoy over the festive season and Hogmanay. thegael.co.uk £40.00 for 70cl

MOONWAKE BREWERY PALE ALE Based in the heart of Leith, Moonwake is a new addition on the brewery scene and is already impressing locals bars with their smooth, delicious beers. They believe their shorefront location in Leith speaks to the importance of water as a central ingredient. The Pale Ale has a mouth-watering taste of tropical flavours of mango, lychee, berries and they added oats for an extra smooth feel. https://moonwakebeer.com £3.80 for 440ml

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Reviews

Balbirnie House BY SEAN MCMAHON Our first evening destination in Fife on our three-day foodie road trip was just a short drive from where we were staying in Dysart, so we arrived fresh and eager to sample the new Seven-by-Balbirnie tasting menu that we’d heard so many great things about. Situated in the village of Markinch, between Edinburgh and St Andrews in the East Neuk of Fife, Balbirnie has received many accolades recently including Hotel of the Year at the Scottish Hotel Awards and Haute Grandeur Europe’s Best Destination Wedding Retreat. Built in 1777, the grand Georgian country house hotel is set in 400 acres of wooded parkland. Unfortunately, it was too dark to venture into the woodland but what did await us was the new seven-course tasting menu from Executive Chef Kris Currie and Head Chef Sharon Munro served at The Orangery, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant. Our evening started on a high with a dish of Scottish langoustines with black garlic mayo, turnip and chives. It was beautifully presented and elegant in taste. Each of the following dishes were just as well presented with the wild duck with braised endive, butternut squash puree, pickled ginger and sesame a menu highlight. Next followed mackerel with apple, lovage, horseradish cream and kohlrabi - not ingredients that are ever on our shopping list, but together proved why eating out and trying new places are such a delight. The main course of pheasant served with truffle dauphine, mushrooms, caramelised celeriac, spinach and nutmeg was delectable in every way and both my wife’s dish and mine showcased flawless execution. After the main course, we were presented with a sea buckthorn sorbet with white chocolate. Having never tasted sea buckthorn before it was a delight to try. It has a citrusy taste and we’re told it is packed full of Vitamin C. The sixth course was a dessert lover’s dream, pumpkin spiced cake, Manuka honey crowdie, granola and pumpkin ice cream. This course nearly finished us off but we still had left a little room left for Blue Murder. I promise I wasn’t screaming blue murder but this was the name of the course. We rightly guessed it was a cheese course, a slice of blue cheese served with pickled walnuts and burnt apple. The whole evening brought joy to our taste buds. A truly astounding gastronomic experience delivered in a romantic setting with superb customer service from start to finish. Whether it is to celebrate a special event, enjoy a romantic dinner or to experience a gourmet extravaganza we cannot recommend Balbirnie House Hotel enough. It certainly shows they have pride in what they do, and they do it extremely well.

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Reviews

Hendersons Restaurant BY MORAG BOOTLAND The much-awaited iconic family-run vegetarian restaurant Hendersons reopens with a new address In Edinburgh and an exciting new menu alongside a few old favourites too…. The word iconic is bandied around far too often nowadays, but Hendersons Edinburgh restaurant is undoubtedly an iconic institution. When the original restaurant, which opened its doors in the New Town in 1962, closed last year, there was an outcry from foodies, some of whom had been enjoying Hendersons fine vegetarian fayre for over half a century. So, the opening of a new Hendersons vegetarian restaurant on Barclay Place in Bruntsfield in the city’s South Side has been met with much excitement. And this new incarnation is very much a family affair. Owner Barrie Henderson, the grandson of Henderson’s formidable founder Janet Henderson, showed us to our table in the window of the building that used to house The Apartment. Here, we were delighted to be handed paper menus (I’m so over scanning QR codes) as we chatted to the ladies at the table next to us. One of whom had worked in the original Hendersons in the 1960s. She explained that Janet had the idea for the restaurant as a way to make money from the glut of produce growing on her East Lothian farm. The décor is muted and autumnal, think an upmarket harvest festival, with an abundance of dried foliage and natural fittings, and includes some of the wooden tables from the original restaurant. We kicked off proceedings with the fabulous pumpkin and blue murder cheese ravioli with browned butter, crispy age and toasted pumpkin seeds (£7.50). This was a beautifully balanced dish full of earthy flavours and Mr B declared that he could have eaten it many times over. The salt and chilli cauliflower wings with satay drizzle/ dip and chilli roasted peanuts (£6) did little to discourage my cauliflower obsession. The dish was perfectly seasoned and bursting with flavour and a pleasant chilli kick. While Mr B was decisive in his choice of the beetroot and black bean burger in a homemade beer bun (£12), I wrangled over my decision. Hendersons’ haggis is the stuff of legend and I’ve enjoyed it many times. On this premise I plumped for lasagne made with homemade pasta, lentil and smoked aubergine ragu (£13). I’m so glad I did because the rich aubergine filling was packed with flavour and topped with a generous portion of creamy sauce and lots and lots of cheese. This was accompanied by a large glass of Extreme Vineyards Bonfire Hill, South African white wine (£28 bottle / £6.75 or £9.50 a glass), which cut beautifully through the richness of the lasagne. There’s a great selection of salads to choose from (£4.50 each), with too many interesting ingredients to list here, but my aforementioned obsession with cauliflower saw us enjoy it roasted this time, with pickled shallots, charred okra and a coriander and mustard vinaigrette. Puds came in the shape of a decadent vegan warm chocolate nut brownie with hazelnut ice cream and espresso syrup (£5.50) and a cider-poached pear with whipped coconut cream, candied ginger, toasted oats and raw cacao (£4.90). I loved the juxtaposition of the very British pear, cider and oats with the exotic coconut and cacao. As you’ve probably worked out, I’m delighted that Hendersons is back in Edinburgh. I love the ‘eat better, live better’ ethos of the restaurant, that Barrie and his partner Clara have already cultivated a veg garden at the restaurant, that they’re honouring a family legacy by combining old classic dishes with new culinary innovations and that both head chef Paul Kayne and senior chef Nives Arosio worked in Hendersons’ former kitchen. The brand is firmly rooted in the capital and I hope it continues to grow, flourish and feed future generations of diners. Hendersons, 7-13 Barclay Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HW www.hendersonsrestaurant.com

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Reviews

Roberta’s Glasgow BY TARA HEPBURN New York-styled restaurant serving authentic Italian fare opens its doors in Glasgow city centre Taking up the spot where Saint Vincent Street meets Hope Street, Roberta’s is a bold and confident Italian restaurant setting up home on one of Glasgow’s busiest dining thoroughfares. Making good use of its prime city centre real estate, the sprawling corner spot – a former Victorian bank building - has been painstakingly refitted over a period of months and transformed into a slick and stylish space that is unmistakably Italian. The latest offering from the city’s C&C Restaurant Group (recently responsible for the reopening of Rojia in Finnieston, as well as Cranside Kitchen on the banks of the Clyde), this 100-cover restaurant looks set to be a firm favourite on the restaurant scene. An open pizza kitchen takes centre stage, the large stone wood-fired oven offering an introduction to the chefs at work in the kitchen – many selected from some of the city’s biggest and most popular pizza restaurants. Chefs can be seen tossing dough for the restaurant’s trademark Neapolitan-style pizzas – think big bubbly blistered crusts. Further into the main body of the restaurant is a long U-shaped bar lined with bistro-style stools designed to be a modern cocktail bar within the restaurant. It is easy to imagine after-work urbanites sampling their considered cocktail list. We can vouch for the excellent espresso martinis! There is a private dining area too, which can accommodate up to 18 people for more intimate dinner parties or work events. The menu is a crowd-pleaser, with familiar pasta dishes and pizzas sharing the pages with more ambitious seafood offerings. Prices are reasonable given the stylish surroundings (pizzas beginning at £7, pasta dishes from £11). There are also nods to the New York-style of Italian cookery, with an extensive selection of steaks and grilled options. The ingredients at play are high quality, sourced where possible from local suppliers or directly from Italy. Roberta’s is open from 12noon each day until late. Roberta’s Italian Restaurant 140 St Vincent Street, Glasgow G2 5LA www.robertaspizza.com

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Reviews

Balgove Larder Steak Barn BY SEAN MCMAHON

To say we’ve been looking forward to our visit to The Balgove Larder Steak Barn would be an understatement. As keen carnivores and devotees of farm-to-food produce, this was going to be a foodie paradise for us! Although it feels like it’s situated in the middle of the countryside, Balgove is in fact located just at the edge of St Andrews on the A91 in the direction of Leuchars. Sitting on the grounds of Strathtyrum Farm estate, Balgove Larder comprises a steak barn, flower shed, Pizza Box, farm shop, butchery and cafe with plenty of car parking. Throughout the year they run a series of events including Christmas wreath-making and butchery classes, Oktoberfest and festive market nights. The steak barn is located to the right of the farm shop and is described as: “A former sawmill which clings to its rustic past with walls of potato boxes and rough-hewn communal tables made of windblown beech from the estate; all cut and made on the farm by our resident joiner.”. It has certainly been transformed into one of the most unique dining experiences that we’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. Sitting on a bench at one of the long communal wood tables, we perused the menu which features plenty of fresh, local produce including succulent meat cuts supplied directly from on the on-site butchery. Highlights from the starter menu included the Sticky Roasted Chicken Wings, East Neuk Mussels, Vegetable Pakora and Pulled Balgove Lamb Shoulder. The host mentioned some specials for the night, but I couldn’t think past the lamb shoulder!. So we opted for the locally-sourced lamb shoulder to share, but we could have easily had one each, not because it was small in size, it was anything but, but because it was so heavenly. Served with salad leaves on a Sourdough toast with minted slaw, the meat was simply melt-in-the-mouth delicious. There was an extensive choice of main course options including a good selection of steak cuts, a Portobello mushroom burger, 12-hour confit pork belly, roasted celeriac steak and a cajun spiced salmon kebab. The steaks are served with twice-fried chips and salad leaves, with an option to upgrade to Truffle and Parmesan chips. With an open kitchen, we watched transfixed as a parade of tempting dishes came out with one, in particular, catching our eye. Both my wife and I looked at each other and said those magical words, “Onion Rings!” We share a mutual love of onion rings and these were monster, beer-battered, onion rings using St Andrews Brew Co Beer Batter. We ordered the 8oz Fillet Steak and a 10oz Rump Steak, both cuts from their own grass-fed cattle using their in-house butchery, hung for 28 days, and cooked on a massive wood-fired barbecue. This really is farm-to-table produce. Words cannot give justice to how good these steaks are, but simply put, “They were the very best steaks we have ever had”. The onion rings lived up to the aforementioned hype with a fabulous crunch to them and the chips were spot on too. There was mention of a dessert menu but we didn’t have room for even a waiver-thin mint and although we did see huge slices of cake whizzing past, we just couldn’t! This is truly a very special place for foodies and one that has to be applauded and appreciated. Everything is just right, from their service to a love of delivering sustainable and the best locally-sourced Scottish fare. We would not hesitate in going back again and again to The Balgove Larder’s Steak Barn.

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Reviews

Loch Lomond Arms BY ROSALIND ERSKINE Lochside Beauty Dinner at Loch Lomond Arms Hotel was every much as picture-perfect as its wooded lochside setting. While visiting the small conservation town of Luss by Loch Lomond (situated literally on the ‘bonnie banks’ as the Scottish song goes), you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped back in time. The immaculate cottages, quaint General Store, well-kept gardens and small jetty on the loch have all been perfectly preserved in this charming village, which is only a 40-minute drive from Glasgow. At the heart of Luss is the Loch Lomond Arms Hotel. Formerly an 18th-century coaching inn, the luxury hotel was given a makeover to become a cosy country gastropub with 15 rooms on-site (self-catering cottages are also available) in 2015. The interior of the hotel is a mix of modern and traditional. Downstairs the bar, restaurant and library are decorated in a muted palette of Farrow & Ball hues in greens on the part tongue-and- groove walls. The dark wooden floors, tartan curtains, open log-burning fires, mismatched, aged wooden chairs and benches, and an eclectic collection of vintage country-scene artworks make this an ideal spot for a cosy lunch or dinner after a winter walk. The menu takes full advantage of the fresh, local bounty available from the surrounding natural larder. Fresh vegetables and fruit come from nearby Camstradden garden (the current Laird’s home) while venison is also from the estate and seafood is from, among other places, Loch Fyne. After a wander about Luss, we sat down to enjoy a warming dinner. We chose a spread of seafood to start with – three Loch Fyne oysters, served with fresh lemon and Tabasco (on request). These plump and juicy oysters were fresh and delicious – a perfect dish to whet the appetite. Across the table, the smoked salmon served with capers and crème fraiche was deemed light and moreish. When it came to choosing mains, nothing says Scotland more than haggis, neeps and tatties. And it’s an ideal dish for a lazy Sunday dinner. The spice from the haggis was well balanced with the smooth mash and sweet turnip, and enhanced with a warming whisky sauce. I opted for Scottish mussels and a side of fries. The steaming mussels were served in a salty broth which was enlivened with onion and cream. This was eagerly mopped up with slices and buttered bread and the crispy fries once the mussels were finished. For dessert, we shared a classic pub sweet treat, sticky toffee pudding. The softly steamed sponge was studded with raisins and dates, and served with a caramel sauce that had just the right amount of sweetness.

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Hold the front page! Strathmore Foods launches UK’s first venison ready meals

The family behind Strathmore Foods has unveiled a premium new range of ready meals, produced with venison reared at their own family farm in Perthshire. Findowie Farmhouse is the latest brand to team up with the ready meal specialists, using sustainably farmed Scottish venison as the star ingredient of a new 4-pack range – a first for the UK grocery market. The new brand is named after Meikle Findowie, the picturesque SAI accredited farm near Dunkeld where the venison will be sourced. It is owned by Strathmore Foods founders the Nisbet family and is also home to over 200 Scottish deer and stags. Julie Nisbet, Managing Director of Strathmore Foods, and daughter of founder Colin Nisbet comments: ‘Our family are long standing advocates and fans of Scottish venison, which is one of the tastiest, healthiest and most sustainable meats available in Scotland today. At our Meikle Findowie farm we have a wonderful source of superb quality venison available, so it makes us very proud to see this meat turned into four delicious new meals for shoppers. It’s also very exciting to be pioneering a completely new and innovative ready meal range in the UK, at a time when research shows that there is a growing appetite amongst consumers to try venison as more of a staple in their diet.

The Refillery heads to Waverley Market

The Refillery – a plastic free grocery and ethical goods store have opened their third store in the capital at Moorgarth’s Waverley Market. The Refillery features over 1300 products in-store and online with the objective of offering plastic-free, ethically sourced shopping that is accessible to everyone. The Refillery, founded by Kelly Wright, who officially opened their first store in January 2019, was created to help as many people as possible move towards a minimal waste lifestyle. The Refillery is Edinburgh’s largest plastic free grocery store, selling an extensive range of wholefoods, herbs and spices. They also provide a range of organic fruit and vegetables, delicious locally baked bread and fresh milk in returnable glass bottles. In just under 3 years, The Refillery’s customers have saved over ½ million pieces of plastic by offering a huge range of plastic free alternatives and encouraging plastic-free production. Waverley Market will be their largest space and project to date, situated in a prime location in the heart of the capital, with excellent travel links in and out of the city and direct access to the train station. Founder of The Refillery, Kelly Wright said: “Waverley Market is such a great location for us to continue our mission to make plastic free shopping accessible to more people. I’m really looking forward to opening our latest store, working closely with a range of local and independent Scottish suppliers with our very own deli and lots of other exciting plans coming up.”

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News

Why not try some Loch Lomond Whisky with these fantastic paired chocolates

Loch Lomond Whiskies has collaborated with an artisan chocolatier to release an assortment of limited-edition whisky-paired chocolates. The luxury truffles were handcrafted by Cocoa Ooze to pair perfectly with three 12 Year Old expressions by Loch Lomond Whiskies, each showcasing the flavour profiles of the distillery’s signature style of fruit, honey and soft smoke. The collaboration is designed to accentuate the flavours and enhance the tasting experience of Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Perfectly Balanced, plus Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Inchmurrin and Loch Lomond 12 Year Old Inchmoan, both part of the Loch Lomond Islands Collection. Each whisky has been paired with bespoke chocolate truffles, designed to complement the hero flavours in each expression. Loch Lomond Whiskies’ Master of the Quaich, Bill White, worked closely with Jamie Hutcheon, owner and master chocolatier at Cocoa Ooze, who founded his business in 2008 at the age of 17. The release of Loch Lomond Whiskies’ dedicated chocolates marks the first in a series of collaborations designed to tell the story of flavour selection, with additional releases anticipated in spring 2022. Bill White, Master of the Quaich at Loch Lomond Whiskies, said: “Jamie’s commitment to his craft is inspiring to see, and working with him has been a thoroughly enjoyable experience. I hope our limited-edition chocolates will take whisky enthusiasts on an exciting new journey to explore new flavours and better understand the complexities behind our craft.”

“Jamie’s commitment to his craft is inspiring to see, and working with him has been a thoroughly enjoyable experience. I hope our limited-edition chocolates will take whisky enthusiasts on an exciting new journey to explore new flavours and better understand the complexities behind our craft.”

Shetland Reel launches limited edition Gin Bean Shetland Reel has announced the launch of Gin Bean, a limited-edition gin made in collaboration with Cairngorm Leaf & Bean, an artisan coffee roastery in the Scottish Highlands. The collaboration came about earlier this year when both businesses realised the benefits of working together to promote and support each other during the pandemic. The collaboration came about earlier this year when both businesses realised the benefits of working together to promote and support each other during the pandemic. The result is an exceptional London Dry Gin with intricate hints of mocha from Cairngorm Leaf & Bean’s El Salvador SHG ‘Cuzcachapa’ single origin coffee. Commenting on the new gin, Director of Shetland Reel Debbie Strang said: “We always endeavour to work closely with other businesses but lockdown gave us an opportunity to try something different. We’ve often wondered whether a hint of coffee in our London Dry Gin would work, and we loved the idea of people coming together after lockdown, whether it was for a coffee or a gin. So, what better way of celebrating than with a combination of both gin and coffee?” Only 500 bottles of Gin Bean have been produced and are available to buy exclusively from the Shetland Reel website and the Unst distillery.

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News

Clootie McToot dumplings debut at the UK Parliament The UK Parliament’s official shop is to stock clootie dumplings following a partnership with Clootie McToot, a small family business based in Perthshire. The business, run by Michelle Maddox, was inspired by the idea to make and sell traditional Clootie dumplings (a traditional Scottish fruit pudding) in 2015 when her son Jacob asked if she would bake something to sell at his Christmas school fete. Michelle made a selection of traditional Clootie dumplings which turned out to be so popular that they sold out almost immediately. Jacob was back with an even larger selection of dumplings the following year, which would go on to kickstart the Clootie McToot business. Starting from humble beginnings, Michelle and her team now supply traditional Clootie dumplings to retailers up and down the UK, run a shop and café in the village, and have won countless industry awards. The recipe used for the Clootie McToot dumplings are based on a recipe handed down through generations of her family. In fact, the technique to make Clootie dumplings has been used for centuries and the earliest known recipe for a Clootie dumpling dates back to 1747. Clootie McToot is also a disability positive employer with a 70% disabled workforce, something that Michelle takes immense pride in. She said: “This is very important to me. The business came about thanks to my son Jacob, who has complex disabilities. I love giving people opportunities and watching them thrive and grow within our business.”

New Charitable restaurant launches The team behind the Six by Nico family of restaurants have launched a new charitable restaurant in Glasgow. Beat 6, which can be found at Whitehill Street, Dennistoun offers a combination of unique food and social good. Profits from the restaurant will go directly towards the Beatson Cancer Charity, which supports the Beatson West of Scotland Cancer Centre. The 34-cover restaurant offers a regularly rotating tasting menu that showcases popular dishes created by the Six By Nico team since opening their debut Glasgow restaurant in 2017. Nico Simeone from Simeone Group said; “We, like many others, hold a special place in our hearts for the Beatson. We hope that the proceeds from Beat 6 will benefit the charity and the staff to whom we owe so much, as well as provide our team with the opportunity to be a part of such an important cancer journey. We genuinely hope that this is the first of many Beat 6 restaurants that we will be able to open for them, and we will always be grateful for everything they do to help change the lives of those affected by cancer every day”.

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News

Ondine Owner crowned Chef of the Year Edinburgh’s Roy Brett, Chef and Owner of Ondine Oyster & Grill has been awarded ‘Chef of the Year’ at The Staff Canteen Awards in Birmingham, celebrating the very best of hospitality throughout the UK. Chef Roy Brett was the only Scottish Chef and Restaurateur to be awarded throughout the whole of Scotland. The Staff Canteen is the UK’s largest network for professional Chefs and the awards are a celebration of hospitality throughout the country with all votes nominated solely by their industry peers, in partnership with Rational. Ondine Oyster & Grill, specialising in seafood and shellfish opened in 2009 by Owner and Chef Roy Brett in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town and has since become an institution in the Scottish Capital. Chef and Owner Roy Brett said: “I am absolutely honoured to be awarded ‘Chef of the Year’ at The Staff Canteen Awards. It means so much to us as a restaurant to be awarded this from our own industry and peers throughout the UK. These awards really are all that hospitality stands for. It was such a special day yesterday in Birmingham and great to all be together again with our hospitality family on our very long road to recovery. Following the pandemic as well as the external scaffolding covering the entire restaurant, we are thrilled to celebrate Ondine Oyster & Grill together as a team and to continue doing what we love.”

New Winter Menu launches at The Register Club One of Edinburgh’s finest bars has unveiled a brand-new food and drink menu for the Winter season. The Register Club, located on the 4th floor of Cheval The Edinburgh Grand, is a truly unique venue that brings cocktails to the forefront. Along with new breakfast and lunch menu items, the innovative winter cocktail menu, which debuts from today, features ten brand new creations crafted by drinks specialist and bartender Ruben Goncalves. Cocktails on the menu include ‘Gin Lane’ - Tanqueray 10 Gin, Amaretto Disaronno, Tio Pepe, and Strawberry Syrup; ‘Crimson Skye’ - Talisker 10YO, Madeira Wine, Coffee and Sherry syrup; ‘Uxmal’ - Tequila, Mezcal, Orange, Falernum, Absinthe, Lime and Angostura and ‘The Grand’ - Rum, Chinoto, Acid Grapefruit juice, IPA cordial and soda. Each drink is available for £11 The Register Club has also welcomed chef Dominik Kawalec to the team who will introduce a new breakfast menu that will be served every day from 7.30 am. Cheval The Edinburgh Grand General Manager, Gavin MacLennan, commented: “The Register Club is committed to providing an expertly crafted and unapologetically unique cocktail experience amidst the backdrop of our luxurious Edinburgh hotel. Our team at The Register club have created an amazing winter food menu, sublime new breakfast offerings that will kickstart your day and crafted some eye-catching, mouthwatering cocktails.”

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DIGITAL EXCLUSIVE

Treasure Island

Coinneach MacLeod, the Hebridean Baker ‘Take your partners for an Orcadian Strip the Willow!’ It’s 11.50pm on New Year’s Eve as the ceilidh band caller announces the final dance of the year. My cousin Helen grabs my arm and whisks me off to the dancefloor. The accordion player strikes up the tune and the hall is suddenly filled with kilts swishing, couples spinning and folk cheering. I work my way down the line of dancers spinning each in turn as the band plays a set of jigs: Atholl Highlanders, Caliope House and Jig of Slurs. Always remembering the golden rule - right hand to your partner, left hand down the line. It’s 11.59 now. Folk begin to gather, making sure their glasses are filled and their loved ones are close by. The bells begin to countdown to midnight. ‘THREE, TWO, ONE!’ The clock strikes twelve. ‘Bliadhna Mhath Ùr – Happy New Year!’ are the cries as the first drams of the new year are drunk and friends, family and strangers are hugged. New customs and old traditions intertwine at the ceilidh and there’s nowhere in the world I’d rather be on Hogmanay. There’s no doubt our local produce in the Hebrides suits a winter palate. On a stormy day outside, sitting down to a menu of Leek & Potato Soup, Braised Venison Stew and a thick slice of Clootie Dumpling for dessert would warm my heart (and belly!). If there is one thing I’m asking Santa to get me for Christmas this year, it’s a cast iron casserole dish. Slow cooking a shoulder of locally sourced venison with root vegetables, redcurrant jelly and red wine for a few hours means when the family arrive – all I need to do is prepare the mashed potatoes and set the table. Lots of flavour and no fuss – perfect! While the rest of Scotland celebrated Hogmanay on December 31st, The Hebrides, even as late as the 1800s, followed the Julien calendar celebrating New Year’s Eve or, in Gaelic, Oidhche Challainn on January 12th. Traditionally the day began with the house being cleaned from top to toe, bedclothes were changed and clothes were mended. Debts were settled, borrowed items were returned. And since nothing should leave the house on New Year’s Day, in case luck should go with it, ashes from the fire were thrown out the night before. The old year was seen out, and the new year welcomed in, with a tidy and ordered household.

That evening, the boys of the village Gillean Challainn would gather in the early evening darkness, with their faces hidden by masks. The oldest boy Ceannard na Calluinn would be wrapped in a sheepskin, often with the horns still on. Each home in the village would be visited. As they arrived they would go clockwise around the house three times, striking the walls to ward off evil spirits. As they returned to the front door, they would request entry by reciting a duan – a Gaelic rhyme, which began: “Tha mise nochd a’ tighinn gur n-ionnsaigh, a dh’ùrachadh dhuibh na Callaig,” translated as “Tonight I come visiting you, to renew for you the year”. One of the boys would carry a caisein-uchd, the breast-strip of a sheep dipped in wax. As they entered, it was lit by the household’s fire. This candle would be passed around each family member and would be circled three times around their head. If the flame died, it foretold death or misfortune to the person below. The duan would then be rewarded by gifts of freshly baked bannocks, bread, sugar, sweets and, if they were lucky, a few pennies. Many local shops in the villages would stay open late to give the boys a chance to spend their rewards. It would then be time to leave for the next house, with a blessing on the home left as a parting wish. “Beannaich an taigh ’s na tha ann Eadar choin ’s cheit ’s chlann Pailteas bi ’s pailteas aodaich ‘S slàinte dhaoine gun robh ann” As the Hogmanay ceilidh comes to an end, another tradition comes to the fore. After midnight, we visit neighbours, family and friends to celebrate the coming of the New Year and ‘First Foot’ them. If a tall, dark-haired man bearing whisky, coal and Black Bun as gifts arrives at your doorstep after the bells, it is a sign of good luck for the year ahead. Black Bun was introduced when Mary, Queen of Scots returned from France and traditionally was eaten on Twelfth Night, the 5th of January. The story goes that a dark-haired man brings luck, as in the days of the Vikings, a burly blonde-haired man knocking on your door at midnight might have meant you wouldn’t be so fortunate…. Bliadhna Mhath Ùr!

Coinneach’s cookbook The Hebridean Baker is available on Amazon and in all good book shops. Filled full of recipes, island stories and beautifully shot images of the Hebrides. You will find him on Tiktok and Instagram @hebrideanbaker Photos provided by Euan Anderson and The Hebridean Baker

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Taste Magazine Scotland Winter 2021/22 Edition

Articles inside

In Season - Winter 2021

Distillery Spotlight: Crabbie’s

Festive Dining Guide 2021

Under the Grill with Gordon Ramsay

Scottish food and drink emerges alive and kicking

A Food Pairing Journey

Bespoke Scottish Festive Hampers

Smoked Out!

Dram Good!

Pies, Glorious Pies

Chef's Hat

Publisher’s Letter