YLW Connect Fall/Winter 2017

FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 | COMPLIMENTARY

CONNECT KELOWNA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT MAGAZINE

EASY ESCAPES INSPIRATION FOR YOUR NEXT WINTER VACATION

INSIDE: AIRPORT NEWS

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LOCAL FINDS

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GETAWAY IDEAS

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FOOD & DRINK

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COVER PHOTO: TULUM, MEXICO PHOTOS: BIG WHITE SKI RESORT, JARED SYCH, PAUL MCKINNON/ISTOCK

CONTENTS AIRPORT INSIDER 5 Mayor’s Message 6 In the News 9 Airport Insider 28 YLW Services 30 Destination Map

12 Local Take: Toronto

21 Easy Winter Escapes

Author and teacher Shawn Micallef reveals his hometown favourites.

Whatever your travel style, there’s a sun destination for you.

15 Family Fun in Phoenix

23 Living Traditions

Ideas for your next multigenerational escape.

Enjoy Indigenous-focused experiences throughout the Thompson Okanagan.

11 Local Take: Seattle

17 The Spirits of Mexico

26 Secrets of a Ski Village

Blogger Adria Saracino shares her picks for the best Seattle neighbourhoods to visit.

Discover the stories behind Mexico’s best-known liquors and cocktails.

Big White has something to offer every type of skier.

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FALL 2017/WINTER 2018

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H e a l t h C a re C a re e r s Southern Interior of BC

Sam Samaddar Airport Director John Devitt Business Development and Community Relations Manager airport@kelowna.ca

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RedPoint Media Group Inc. Pete Graves President & CEO Pritha Kalar Associate Publisher Jill Foran Editor

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MAYOR’S MESSAGE

A VITAL GATEWAY Kelowna International Airport continues to grow and thrive.

WELCOME TO THE latest issue of YLW Connect. If you’re already familiar with this magazine, you’ll likely notice, as you flip through the pages, that it has a new look.

This change—a refresh, if you will—is just one of the many ways we’re aiming to enrich your travels and enhance your experience at Kelowna International Airport.

The last year has seen tremendous growth at YLW. The airport has been busier than ever, serving more than 1.7 million passengers annually, developing new facilities to better accommodate our guests (including a new outbound baggage hall, which you can read about on page 6) and adding new routes to our network.

This sort of growth and development only serves to heighten YLW’s role as a vital gateway— both for travellers arriving to experience the beauty, bounty and business opportunities of

the Okanagan Valley, and for Okanagan residents travelling to one of the many exciting national and international destinations that can be reached via Kelowna.

Of course, with our chilliest season upon us, many of the most compelling destinations are the sunniest ones, and YLW is proud to offer service to a variety of warm-weather places—including Varadero, Puerto Vallarta, and Cancun—that are ideal for easy winter getaways. You can read about many of them, as well as a variety of other destinations that are closer to home, throughout this issue.

No matter where your travels take you over the next several months, we hope that your experience at Kelowna International Airport is a pleasant one. Thank you for your continued support of YLW, and for including us in your travel plans.

COLIN BASRAN, MAYOR OF KELOWNA AND CHAIR OF THE AIRPORT ADVISORY COMMITTEE

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IN THE NEWS

YLW

BY THE NUMBERS

1.7 MILLION Passengers passed through YLW in 2016.

The new baggage hall has doubled its processing capacity to almost 1,000 bags per hour.

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MAKING ROOM FOR MORE BAGGAGE A new outbound baggage hall opened in September, allowing YLW to serve more airport travellers.

BY KARIN OLAFSON

THE KELOWNA INTERNATIONAL Airport is a busy place, and it just keeps getting busier. A record number of travellers are passing through its doors month after month, and it’s tracking a 12 per cent increase in traffic from 2016 to 2017. With such an increase in volume, a brand new outbound baggage hall was needed to meet the growing demands on YLW. “Our former baggage hall was very tight and congested,” says Henry Castorf, project manager at the Kelowna International Airport. “With the growth that YLW has been experiencing over the years, expanding our capability for outbound baggage was identified as a priority.”

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YLW CONNECT

Preliminary design for the new facility began in 2010. This included consulting with airlines, baggage handlers and the Canadian Air Transport Security Authority, and researching baggage-handling facilities at other Canadian airports. A baggage system designed by Glidepath, a New Zealand-based company, was selected, and construction of the new facility began in the summer of 2015.

YLW’s former baggage hall was capable of processing up to 450 bags per hour. The new hall has currently doubled that processing capacity to almost 1,000 bags per hour.

According to Castorf, the hall was designed with future growth in mind—it can be expanded to handle more than 1,500 bags per hour.

+

Flights departing out of the airport each day.

15 Direct destinations reachable via YLW.

11

th

Busiest airport in Canada.

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%

Growth in traffic so far in 2017.

We invite you to the

HOME OF PINOT GRIS The trailblazing story of Gray Monk and BC’s greatest grape are forever intertwined.

LOOKING BACK, PLANNING AHEAD Mayor Colin Basran shares his excitement for the future of Kelowna.

In 1976, Gray Monk brought the first Pinot Gris vines to Canada from Alsace, France.

GRAYMONK.COM

BY KARIN OLAFSON

PHOTO: MYSTICENERGY/ISTOCK

What would you say are some of the notable developments or accomplishments Kelowna has experienced in the past few months?

Our city is in the middle of a building boom, probably the biggest in Kelowna’s history. We are one of the fastest growing areas in Canada and the fastest growing area in British Columbia.

Demographically, we’re getting younger as a community, which to me says that there’s economic opportunity here and young people are recognizing that.

Which current city projects are you most looking forward to seeing finished?

One of the things I’m most excited for is the continued work on the Okanagan Rail Trail (read more about this on page 9).

It has great tourism potential, but it also has great transportation potential. It will allow our residents to get around easily either by bike or walking, thus eliminating single occupancy vehicle trips.

We are also working on an important road connection in our community

called John Hindle Drive. It opens up the urban area of Glenmore, and it’s another route into our university and our airport.

What are some of Kelowna’s most pressing challenges these days?

We expect to keep growing year over year, so the challenge is how we will deal with that growth. We want to try to direct growth to urban centres where people can live close to where they work, where the amenities are and where the infrastructure is already built.

It’s a sustainable way to grow that also means getting people out of their cars, walking, riding their bikes and living a healthier lifestyle.

What makes you most proud to be the mayor of Kelowna right now?

Kelowna is a community that everyone can call home. I’m really proud of the fact that city council has become a champion for inclusion, diversity and acceptance.

In my opinion, Kelowna is a place where everybody can feel welcome.

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YLW CONNECT

AIRPORT INSIDER

ABOARD THE OKANAGAN RAIL TRAIL

BY KARIN OLAFSON

A discontinued rail line is being developed into a multi-use recreational pathway between Coldstream and Kelowna, and it directly connects with the Kelowna International Airport.

CYCLING TO AND FROM the Kelowna International Airport will soon get a lot easier.

The Okanagan Rail Trail project is currently transforming a discontinued CN Rail line into a 50-kilometre-long recreational pathway that travels through the City of Kelowna, the District of Lake Country, the Regional District of North Okanagan and land being transferred to the Okanagan Indian Band.

When complete, the trail will run continuously between Kelowna and Coldstream, making scenic cycling and walking easily accessible to both locals and visitors.

Andrew Gibbs, a landscape architect and senior project manager at the City of Kelowna, is managing the development of the pathway. According to Gibbs, the long-term goal of the project is to preserve and maintain a multi-modal transportation corridor for the future. “The more immediate goal is to develop a 50-kilometre recreational trail that links four communities together and gives people the opportunity to easily travel the entire length of it,” says Gibbs.

Why was the discontinued CN railway a desirable location for this new pathway?

Railways tend to occupy prime real estate that physically connects communities with a continuous and level corridor.

When the railway was discontinued in 2013, it was apparent to all the municipalities along the way that this was a critical piece of infrastructure. Someday, this valley will be a metropolis and we need to start thinking now about how we’ll move people in the future.

What factors were considered when you started designing this trail in 2016?

We knew right away that the trail was going to be for pedestrians and cyclists, not for motorized traffic. The Okanagan Rail Trail is a regional amenity that connects the communities of the North and Central Okanagan, so we also knew the trail should be fairly consistent in function and appearance from one end to the other. In the long, long-term, we want to preserve this corridor so there is somewhere to build a valley-wide transit system.

What are some highlights commuters can enjoy close to the Kelowna International Airport?

You get a choice: turn left onto the trail out of the airport and you’ll get to down-

town Kelowna in under half an hour. If you turn right and head north, you’ll cycle past scenic farmland and stunning lakes.

Ultimately, you get to decide whether you want a big-city experience or a nature experience.

How do you think the new trail will affect the airport experience?

The airport is an important tourism hub for Kelowna and for the Okanagan, and the Okanagan Rail Trail corridor goes right along the edge of the Kelowna International Airport. I think that having this pathway—a major amenity—right at the front door of the airport will have a multiplier effect for both facilities. It’s ideal for people choosing not to use a car. It will be possible for passengers and airport employees who live in Kelowna to commute to and from the airport more easily.

When is the project scheduled for completion?

The first phase should be complete by the end of March 2018. That will include about 9 km in Kelowna, from Dilworth Drive to Airport Way, and probably another 3 km in both Lake Country and the Regional District of North Okanagan.

The completion of the full 50 km of pathway depends on fundraising, but we’re hoping that it will all be finished by the end of 2018.

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LOCAL TAKE

FOR CLASSIC FARE BALLARD “All my favourite Seattle restaurants are in Ballard. I recommend getting to The Walrus and the Carpenter right at the start of the 4 p.m. happy hour for half-off oysters, then trying the life-changing steak tartare. Or, dive into the Brooklyn or White Pie pizzas at Delancey—I literally teared up when I first tried the Brooklyn because it reminds me so much of the pizza of my childhood.”

Adria Saracino on

SEATTLE

PHOTOS: AARON LEITZ, STEFANO POLITI MARKOVINA/ALAMY, PACIFIC GALLERIES AUCTION HOUSE, TMI/ALAMY

BY JOHN LEE

As Washington State’s biggest city, Seattle is home to a dizzying variety of distinct enclaves. And, while some of the city’s neighbourhoods are famous even to first-time visitors, it takes a savvy local to point out the special, under-the-radar places. Enter Adria Saracino, Seattle-based creator of the Pacific Northwest food and travel blog The Emerald Palate.

A food-lover with a penchant for indie shops, artisanal goodies and off-the-beaten-path experiences, Saracino never tires of exploring the city she calls home. Here, she shares a few of her must-see neighbourhoods.

FOR COFFEE BREAKS PIONEER SQUARE “You’ll be in or near Pioneer Square if you’re heading to the Seattle Underground Tour [a popular tour for visitors] or taking in a Mariners’ baseball game. Fuel up for your adventures at Slate Coffee Roasters where, if you have time to kill, you can also try an educational tasting flight experience. For a more laid-back vibe, head to Elm Coffee Roasters instead—it’s great for people-watching.”

FOR VINTAGE FINDS SODO “Seattle is a great vintage and antiquing destination—and a lot of the best places are in SODO [short for South of Downtown].

One of my favourite weekend activities is to browse the aisles at Pacific Galleries, a huge antiques mall with lots of different vendors.

Or I head to the nearby Georgetown Trailer Park Mall, where, every Saturday and Sunday, trailers pull up selling vintage goods.”

FOR A NATURE FIX MAGNOLIA “Seattle is a beautiful city, and one of the best areas to take it all in is Magnolia. I recommend Discovery Park, where trails weave along the cliffs and lead down to a beach filled with sea-glass souvenirs. Another great option is the Elliott Bay Trail, a paved walking and biking path that starts near downtown’s Sculpture Park and snakes alongside Puget Sound to Magnolia, where it ends in Smith Grove Park.”

FOR QUIRKY SHOPS

CONNECT Direct flights to Seattle depart YLW daily via Alaska Airlines.

FREMONT “I love exploring all the shops lining Fremont’s main drag, especially when the Sunday Market is in full force. Pop into the Fremont Vintage Mall for affordable, quirky finds or peruse the cookbooks at the utterly charming Book Larder. If you geek out over chefs like I do, check the Book Larder’s website for the lineup of often-free author talks.”

FOR DRINKS DOWNTOWN “I used to work downtown, so finding the best crowd-free drinking spots was essential to surviving the daily grind. My favourite is Le Caviste, a French wine bar with affordable glasses and small plates. If cocktails are more your speed, try the Gunpowder Punch cocktail at Rob Roy. Yes, it has gunpowder in it. No, it’s not dangerous. And yes, it’s delicious.”

FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 11

LOCAL TAKE

FOR SHOPPING WEST QUEEN WEST “West Queen West is one of the longest retail strips in North America. You can start at University Avenue and walk west for many kilometres until Roncesvalles and find an endless line of shops, restaurants and art galleries. And you can take the streetcar back whenever you get tired.”

Shawn Micallef on

TORONTO

BY KAT TANCOCK

CONNECT Direct flights to Toronto depart YLW multiple times per week via Air Canada and WestJet. 12 YLW CONNECT

FOR TRUE-BLUE TORONTO KENSINGTON MARKET “Kensington is peak Toronto. So many ethnic and immigrant groups have left their mark on this neighbourhood, including Toronto’s Jewish, Portuguese, Caribbean and Southeast Asian communities. Punks, artists and indie entrepreneurs have also made their home here. On weekends it’s the best place to people-watch while wandering its bohemian streets and laneways.”

FOR MOVERS AND SHAKERS THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT “For a taste of monumental Toronto, visit the financial district. Start at the northeast corner of King and Bay to see John Andrews’ (the CN Tower’s architect) favourite view of his building, framed by the black towers of Toronto-Dominion Centre. Below the streets are more than 30 kilometres of subterranean passages, good to wander if the weather’s bad outside.”

FOR NIGHTLIFE THE JUNCTION “This area has become something of a chill nightlife and craft beer neighbourhood.

That’s ironic, because until the 1990s it was one of the handful of Toronto neighbourhoods that were dry, a remnant of the days when ‘the Junction’ alluded to a rough-and-tumble railway town that needed to be tamed. Be sure to check out the cozy Hole in the Wall near Keele, a sliver of a bar.”

FOR ARTS AND CULTURE THE DISTILLERY DISTRICT “The Distillery is an interesting, 15-years-in-the-making experiment of turning a former industrial site into a mixed-use community with people living in it and people coming to be entertained. Bars, restaurants, a theatre, shops and historic interpretation throughout will consume a few hours of time, and the Christmas Market in December has become incredibly popular.”

FOR A HIPSTER VIBE OSSINGTON “Until not too long ago, Ossington, between Queen and Dundas streets, was just a place to get your winter tires put on, but today it’s about as hip as Toronto gets, with new restaurants and bars. Try Reposado Bar & Lounge for Mexican tapas, but, before or after, walk over to nearby Trinity Bellwoods Park to do some hipster-watching or fancy dog-watching for a bit.”

PHOTOS: ROBERT RUGGIERO, PAUL MCKINNON/ISTOCK, LOU LUNA, OLEKSIY MAKSYMENKO/ALAMY, BUKHAROVA/ISTOCK

Toronto is a city that’s known for its diversity of neighbourhoods, and perhaps no one knows them better than Shawn Micallef, author of the new book Frontier City: Toronto on the Verge of Greatness and co-founder of the urbanist magazine Spacing.

When he’s not busy writing his weekly column for the Toronto Star or teaching courses on city civics at the University of Toronto, Micallef can often be found live-tweeting commentary on his forays—by foot or by bicycle—across and around Toronto’s expanses.

Of the 140-plus official neighbourhoods that make up Toronto, here are some of Micallef’s favourites.

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Water is life. our bodies rely on it

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around it. So it’s no wonder that life is better the closer we get to it. One soothing, blue hour spent in Westbay Quay proves the positively life-enhancing effect of Victoria’s landmark new neighbourhood—a stunning collection of 85 homes found at the foot of a dynamic marina community fully outfitted for the best in life.

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FAMILY TRAVEL

DO THE CHANDLER ART WALK Chandler, one of Greater Phoenix’s more than 20 bedroom communities, charms with mission-style architecture surrounding a landscaped park. Trelliscovered sidewalks lead to art galleries, chic boutiques, souvenir shops and a Mexican ice pop stand that wows little taste buds. On the third Friday of the month, the Chandler Art Walk welcomes more than 35 local artists who come to show off their jewelry, pottery and other wares in the main square.

FAMILY FUN IN GREATER PHOENIX Fill your multi-generational escape with art, science, desert landscapes and southwestern cuisine.

PLAY AT PAPAGO PARK Both the Phoenix Zoo, which ranks in the Top 5 for kids in the U.S., and the impressive Desert Botanical Gardens, with its staggering number of cactus species, are located in Papago Park in Phoenix (separate admissions, though). The whole family will enjoy feeding the giraffes and stingrays at the zoo, then ogling the stately saguaro and prickly teddy bear cholla cactuses along the winding paths in the botanical gardens.

BY LISA KADANE | ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS DICKASON

EAT AT JOE’S FARM GRILL Good food is part of any great holiday, and visitors can get their farm-fresh fill at Joe’s Farm Grill in Gilbert. The restaurant features comfort food (think kid-faves such as burgers, fries, pizza and salads) that’s quite literally grown next-door at the Agritopia community farm or raised locally. Agritopia began as a family farm in 1960 and has evolved into a farming community whose residents aim to preserve urban agriculture. It’s a delicious (and sustainable) initiative.

“I HAVEN’T FALLEN OFF MY HORSE YET!” exclaims my mom, astride her swayback steed Eli on a trail ride outside of Phoenix. Emboldened by her equestrian skills, she kicks her stubborn mount into a slow trot—demonstrating that, perhaps, your seventies are the new sixties—on our family’s multi-generational vacation in Arizona.

Grammie has joined my husband and me, and our two schoolage kids, in Greater Phoenix for a week of sun and fun. We try to take a trip with my mom once a year, and our family is not alone in its “togethering”—multi-generational travel is one of the top travel trends in North America as parents bring along grandparents for some quality time with their grandkids.

Though a Wild West theme seems to dominate much of our Greater Phoenix trip—we’re all about cactuses, horses and Tex-Mex grub (to prove it, my mom and daughter faithfully wear their jean jackets and cowboy hats everywhere)—we discover that the metropolitan area lassoes up much more than just trail rides and tacos.

CONNECT Direct flights to Phoenix depart YLW on Saturdays and Sundays (Oct. to Apr.) via WestJet.

SEE THE ARIZONA SCIENCE CENTER There aren’t many museums where you can walk into a replica stomach that explains digestion and then get, ahem, “eliminated” out the intestine slide.

But it’s this originality, delivered in an interactive way, that makes the Arizona Science Center in downtown Phoenix so kid-awesome. Don’t miss the Forces of Nature exhibit; kids will be mesmerized watching volcanoes erupt and tornados spiral down, while they actually feel the heat and wind thanks to the interactive stage they’re standing on.

FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 15

Sidney by the Sea 4 2

Only a Short Drive from Downtown Victoria, BC Sidney is the Gateway to Your Vancouver Island Adventure Rich in history and surrounded by natural beauty, Sidney is the gateway to Vancouver Island.

Complete with a vibrant boutique-shopping district (1) and many quaint dining options you won’t know where to start. To complete the Sidney experience, Victoria Distillers (2), the only waterfront distillery on Vancouver Island offers daily tours and tastings.

1 3

The waterfront in Sidney offers many experiences including the Town’s sculpture walk and historic walking tour. If you want to visit the nearby wine region and cidery (3), you can do so on your way to the world-famous Butchart Gardens, only a 15-minute drive away.

Sidney is known as Canada’s only Booktown so be sure to peruse the 5 independent bookstores during your visit. If you are bringing little ones, the Shaw Centre for the Salish Sea (4) offers special hands-on experiences not to be missed!

16 YLW CONNECT

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Sidney Destination Information distinctlysidney.ca

FOOD + DRINK

Harvesting agave in Jalisco, Mexico

THE SPIRITS OF MEXICO Try these traditional Mexican liquors and signature cocktails the next time you fly south of the U.S. border.

PHOTO: AURORA

BY LISA KADANE

WINEMAKERS AND WHISKY distillers the world over talk about the impact of terroir on grapes and grains, but there’s another type of alcohol—a lesser-known, Mexican spirit—that serves as a complete reflection of the environment in which it’s grown: mezcal.

Mezcal is made from more than 30 different species of the spiky agave plant, which is native to Mexico. Prior to fermentation and distillation, the plants’ hearts, called piñas, are roasted in an underground pit with black oak or mesquite wood for three to seven days, a traditional technique that imbues the spirit with its trademark smoky flavour. But ultimately, how a bottle tastes comes down to the type of agave harvested, the soil and water that gave it life, the wood and stones used to cook the piñas, and the wild yeast that sparked fermentation.

“Mezcal is the most terroir-driven spirit on the planet,” says Eric Lorenz, president of

Lorenz Agave Spirits, a mezcal and tequila import company.

It is also Mexico’s oldest spirit, dating back more than 450 years to the time of the Spanish conquest. In fact, the conquistadors are credited with inventing the liquor—when they ran out of rum and brandy, they looked for a local plant to turn into alcohol.

Though mezcal has long been overshadowed by tequila, it is currently undergoing a renaissance. “People love mezcal’s unique

“Mezcal was craft before craft was cool.”

smokiness and find it tastes a lot more natural than tequila,” says Ricardo Lopez, an agave spirits specialist and co-owner of Vallarta Tequila Tastings in Puerto Vallarta.

They also love its time-honoured roots.

For the most part, producers still make mezcal the old-fashioned way. For example, they hand-harvest wild agave, and roast the agave hearts in pit ovens at small production houses called palenques. The cooked piñas are then mashed by hand using a tahona, which is a stone wheel pulled by a horse or donkey.

Finally, the spirit is distilled twice in either clay or copper pot stills, in small quantities.

“It was craft before craft was cool,” says Lorenz.

As such, it’s not a drink to shoot; rather, sip a flight of mezcal and chase each sample the traditional way, with an orange wedge sprinkled with sal de chapulin (grasshopper salt). It doesn’t get more “terroir” than that.

FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 17

FOUR MORE SIGNATURE SIPS TO TASTE...

1. TEQUILA Tequila is, essentially, a kind of mezcal.

It’s made exclusively from blue agave plants, mainly in Jalisco state. Tequila is produced in much the same way as mezcal, except the agave hearts are more commonly baked in a brick oven, so tequila lacks that smoky quality.

What’s more, tequila is often aged in oak barrels to become smoother reposado (aged two months to one year) or añejo (aged one to three years) versions that drink more like a whisky.

2. SOTOL Sotol is the northern cousin of mezcal and tequila. The spirit is produced primarily in the states of Chihuahua, Durango and Sonora from sotol—also known as desert spoon—a foraged, flowering plant that’s in the same family as agave. Sotol takes its flavour cues from the arid Sonoran Desert where the plant matures, and tastes earthier and more resinous than other agave spirits.

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3. THE MARGARITA The lip-puckering margarita has enjoyed a seven-decade run as Mexico’s leading cocktail, with no sign of slowing down. It’s a safe bet that every resort, bar and restaurant in the country shakes up a version of this popular party-starter, whose appeal lies in the balance between tequila’s bite, the sweet orange notes of triple sec and the refreshing tang of fresh lime juice.

4. THE MICHELADA This beer cocktail traditionally consists of fresh lime juice and a sprinkle of salt added to an ice-cold cerveza.

The tart-salty-malty combination is refreshing and thirst-quenching, which is probably why it’s been a go-to at Mexican cantinas for decades. Today, it’s not uncommon for bartenders to add their own spicy or savoury stamp to the “beertail.” Look for micheladas stirred with Tabasco, tomato juice or even Maggi seasoning sauce.

18 YLW CONNECT

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3

...AND WHERE TO TASTE THEM

PHOTOS: JARED SYCH, SHOT ON LOCATION AT NATIVE TONGUES TAQUERIA; KARISMA HOTELS & RESORTS

1

PUERTO VALLARTA

CANCUN

LOS CABOS

VALLARTA TEQUILA TASTINGS Dive in to the world of agave spirits with tequila specialist Ricardo Lopez. He’ll guide you through several tequila samples, shedding light on the production process as well as the difference between blanco and reposado tequila. He also offers a mezcal tasting experience.

JUANA MARGARITA In addition to serving the tequila-Cointreau-lime margarita blend, this tequila bar inside the Hyatt Ziva Cancun features flights as well as hand-crafted tequila cocktails and lesser-know Mexican liqueurs such as Agavero (floral tequila) and La Pinta (pomegranate tequila).

LA LUPITA TACO & MEZCAL Pair mezcal with everything from mole to marinated pork tacos at this bar in San José del Cabo. Choose from 30 different mezcal labels or sip on a “mezcalita” (a mezcal margarita) or a Michelada Cubana, which is a spicymeets-salsa take on the beer cocktail.

THE SHACK Bury your toes in the sand while you sip on mezcal and tequila cocktails at this beach bar, part of the Four Seasons Punta Mita on the Riviera Nayarit just north of Puerto Vallarta. Be sure to try the Cielo Rojo, a michelada twist that marries refreshing clamato with the resort’s exclusive Cora beer.

LE CHIQUE RESTAURANT Enjoy a tasting dinner at Le Chique, part of the Azul Beach Resort Sensatori Mexico in Puerto Morelos, just south of Cancun.

Chef Jonatán Gómez Luna presents food in delicious and unexpected ways and pairs each course with wine, mezcal or a tequila cocktail.

CABO WABO CANTINA No trip to Cabo San Lucas is complete without a visit to Sammy Hagar’s original tequila joint. The drinks list features more than 25 different mezcals and tequilas, as well as the brightly hued Waborita, which features a splash of blue curaçao in a classic on-the-rocks margarita.

CONNECT Direct flights to Puerto Vallarta depart YLW on Fridays (Oct. to Apr.) via WestJet, and on Sundays (Dec. to Apr.) via Air Transat.

CONNECT Direct flights to Cancun depart YLW on Sundays and Wednesdays (Nov. to Apr.) via WestJet, Saturdays via Air Transat (Dec. to Apr.), and Sundays via Sunwing Airlines (Nov. to Apr.).

CONNECT Direct flights to Cabo San Lucas depart YLW on Saturdays via WestJet (Oct. to Apr.).

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TRIP IDEAS

Varadero

EASY WINTER ESCAPES Whatever your personal interests may be, there’s a perfect winter getaway just waiting to be enjoyed. Start planning your easy escape from the cold.

BY ALYSSA SCHWARTZ

FOR BEACH BUMS

FOR SPORTS LOVERS

FOR WELLNESS SEEKERS

FOR HISTORY BUFFS

VARADERO Offering up a 20-kilometre-long, uninterrupted stretch of perfect white sand, Varadero is truly a beach-lover’s paradise. With more than 60 resorts, most fronted by some of the best shoreline in all the Caribbean, this is the place to go in Cuba if what you’re pining for is spending plenty of quality time by—or in—the water.

When the sun gets to be too much of a good thing, cool off with a snorkel at the Cayo Piedra Underwater Park, an artificial reef made up of numerous types of vessels (even a sunken airplane), or learn about the history of the area at the Museo de Varadero, set inside a restored 1920s beach house.

LAS VEGAS This winter is the inaugural season for Sin City’s new NHL franchise—the Vegas Golden Knights—which may be reason enough to hit the infamous Vegas Strip. But there are many other sporty attractions to enjoy here, too. Whether it’s a stay in the ultimate NBA-fan suite (the Hardwood, at the Palms Casino Resort, is outfitted with NBA-sized Murphy beds, a locker room and an indoor basketball court), watching professional cowboys compete at the National Finals Rodeo, or catching dinner and a game in high definition on more than a hundred screens at Lagasse’s Stadium, Vegas is action-packed for eager spectators.

SCOTTSDALE With its tranquil desert landscapes and more than 50 resort and day spas (the most per capita in the U.S.), Scottsdale is an ideal getaway for those looking to de-stress and rejuvenate.

The city’s McDowell Sonoran Preserve has almost 300 km of trails for hiking and biking, and, as the country’s largest urban wilderness area, offers ample ways to enjoy the physical and mental wellness boosts that come from spending time in nature. After your outdoor adventure, consider unwinding with some tequila—at the spa, that is. The Westin Kierland Resort & Spa uses Herradura Double Barrel Reposado Tequila in body exfoliating treatments and facials.

YUCATÁN PENINSULA Powder-soft beaches and a relaxed vibe are good reasons for visiting Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, but the area’s pre-Columbian temples and ruins are also a fascinating draw. Built by the Mayans more than a thousand years ago, the walled city of Tulum is perched on a cliff above the Caribbean Sea. Tulum actually means “walls” in the Mayan language, and the city’s six-metre-thick limestone enclosure stands intact to this day—encompassing ruins that include six temples and a number of other structures. About an hour away, the more rugged Cobá ruins are hidden in the jungle, accessible via a system of limestone paths.

FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 21

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LOCAL CULTURE

LIVING

TRADITIONS A variety of Indigenous-led places and experiences await throughout the Thompson Okanagan region.

I

t’s early morning in late autumn, and I’m in a cozy bed after a good night’s sleep.

Out the window, I spot an eagle flying overhead. Then another. Soon, it will be time for coffee, followed by some canoeing across the azure-hued Little Shuswap Lake, and then, perhaps, I’ll join a drumming session.

But there’s no rush. Life seems to slow down at Quaaout Lodge & Spa at Talking Rock Golf Resort. Owned and operated by the Little Shuswap Indian Band, Quaaout is a gem in the heart of the

BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER

Thompson Okanagan, a region I visit often, and one that is filled with fascinating Indigenous-led places and experiences, from traditional celebrations to groundbreaking wineries.

The Syilx/Okanagan First Nation People have a history that reaches back thousands of years and stretches across a big part of B.C.—roughly 69,000 square kilometres across the southern interior. It includes nearly 5,000 people from seven Nations: the Upper Nicola Band, the Okanagan Indian Band, the Westbank First Nation,

the Penticton Indian Band, the Osoyoos Indian Band, and the Upper Similkameen and Lower Similkameen Indian Bands. Each band has its own traditions and stories, but one thing they all share is the desire to see their cultures preserved and appreciated for generations to come.

Following are some of the Indigenous-based places and initiatives I’ve encountered in my travels throughout the Thompson Okanagan— ones I think are essential components to experiencing all the region has to offer.

FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 23

WINING AND DINING Whenever I’m in Kelowna, I pay a visit to Kekuli Café—30 minutes from the Kelowna International Airport in the community of Westbank—for fresh bannock. This traditional fry-bread, which has long been a staple of Indigenous peoples in North America, is delicious when it’s warm, slathered with homemade saskatoon jam.

The co-owner of Kekuli Café, Sharon BondHogg, grew up outside Merritt, B.C., watching her parents make bannock for family and friends.

“My mom and dad taught me about having passion in everything you do,” she says. “And they loved baking, cooking, canning, gathering, hunting and fishing.”

A member of the Nooaitch Indian Band, Bond-Hogg decided to take her parents’ culinary teachings further and began selling bannock from a car wash concession in Westbank. It became so popular that she opened Kekuli in 2009. With the tag line, “Don’t Panic…We Have Bannock!” it is one of Canada’s very first Indigenous-focused restaurants and remains one of its most popular, even appearing on the TV show You Gotta Eat Here!

Bond-Hogg’s secret to success? The passion her parents shared with her, and the right recipe. “If you have good food, the people will come,” she says.

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Creativity and respectful sharing are at the core of many experiences to be had in the region.

The same can be said for good wine, and no mention of Indigenous culinary traditions in B.C. would be complete without talk of two Okanagan wineries. Founded 15 years ago, Nk’Mip Cellars, near the town of Osoyoos, calls itself the first Indigenous owned and operated winery in all of North America (the winery is a partnership between the Osoyoos Indian Band and Arterra Wines Canada).

Using grapes from the Osoyoos Indian Band’s Inkameep Vineyard, the winemaking team here—which includes many band members— produces a variety of stellar, award-winning wines. “We only work with fruit that is grown on the traditional lands owned by the Osoyoos Indian Band, which is an important factor to the quality of our wines,” says winemaker and Osoyoos Indian Band-member Justin Hall. “Nobody knows the history, significance and nuances of our land like we do, and this is reflected in the quality of grapes we produce.”

The winemakers at Nk’Mip often consult with others in the band, as well, to come up with suitable Okanagan-language names to give their wines. Every time I visit, I buy a bottle of the

Qwam Qwmt Mer’r’iym. The name means “marriage,” and it is, indeed, the perfect moniker for this Bordeaux-style red blend.

Newer to the region’s wine scene is Indigenous World Winery, in Westbank. Owned by former Westbank First Nation Chief Robert Louie and his wife, Bernice, the winery released its first wines and opened to the public for visits in 2016.

With sweeping views of Okanagan Lake, this is another fine spot to stop and enjoy a glass, dine at the on-site Indigenous-inspired restaurant and take in the stunning decor and art on display, which honours and showcases the heritage of the Syilx/Okanagan peoples.

ART AND EDUCATION Among the fine art that adorns Indigenous World Winery are the stunning, 12-foot crossing spears at its entrance. These spears are the work of metal artist Clint George, a member of the Penticton Indian Band whose sculptures can be found around the world.

George, who started his career as a tattoo artist, bases much of his art on ancient pictographs found in B.C., as well as stories told to him by his grandparents and Elders in his community.

“Growing up, I never really understood the stories, but now I realize how important they are in terms of our history,” he says. “I want to help

PHOTOS: MILK CREATIVE COMMUNICATIONS, WESTSIDE WEEKLY, KELLY FUNK

educate people from around the world about the Okanagan Nation.”

This focus on education is also front-and-centre at Penticton’s En’owkin Centre, a post-secondary school and arts facility that seeks to protect and grow the culture and identity of the Syilx Nation. Here, students take classes in subjects that include conservation, foundations in Indigenous fine arts, and language revitalization, where they learn the N’syilxcen language. The centre also has its own publishing company, Theytus Books, which, almost 40 years after it began, is still documenting the lives of Indigenous peoples through literature.

Though classes at En’owkin aren’t open to everyone, I’ve learned that guests are welcome to visit the property to check out the school’s striking architecture—including four carved story poles featuring the traditions of the Syilx people—and to tour its stunning library, which often hosts readings from local authors.

In addition, on the first Saturday of December every year, the Authentic Indigenous Arts

and Crafts sale—the largest such sale in the Okanagan—gets 10,000 visitors who eagerly snap up such things as handmade beadwork, paintings and carvings.

“Indigenous artists up and down the valley come together [for this sale] to visit with one another and meet new people,” says Tracey Kim Bonneau, a member of the Penticton Indian Band who handles public relations for the school. “The En’owkin advocated for Indigenous artists to be fairly remunerated for their work, and by providing this venue, artists get more exposure.”

GATHERINGS AND CELEBRATIONS In my travels throughout the Thompson Okanagan, it’s clear that creativity and respectful sharing are at the core of many experiences to be had in the region. For the Secwepemc (Shuswap) people, who occupy a vast territory of Interior B.C., these elements are on full display every August, when the City of Kamloops becomes the

site of the Kamloopa Powwow, one of the biggest celebrations of Indigenous culture in Western Canada. Held over three days, this welcoming event draws upwards of 20,000 people from around North America and features traditional storytelling, music and dance.

During the rest of the year, the Secwepemc Museum and Heritage Park is an engaging place to learn more about the region’s Indigenous peoples. Guests can explore the 2,000-year-old winter village site, which contains replica pit houses and the remains of a pit house village from ancient times. The museum also features galleries of photos and artifacts that speak to a rich past—delicate carved bone needles, hand-woven baskets, digging-stick handles, axe heads and arrowheads.

“It’s a very rich collection,” says archivist Carryl Armstrong, who grew up in the area and whose family is from the Neskonlith Reserve (part of the Secwepemc Nation) near Chase. “And it’s really rewarding to think our culture and history will be preserved for future generations.”

Page 23: A dancer performing at the Kamloopa Powwow. Page 24: Nk’Mip Cellars. Page 25, clockwise from top left: Sharon Bond-Hogg at Keluki Café, drumming at Kamloopa Powwow, artifacts from Secwepemc Museum and Heritage Park, the crossing spears sculpture at Indigenous World Winery, beadwork from last year’s Authentic Indigenous Arts and Crafts sale.

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WINTER FUN

SECRETS OF A SKI VILLAGE

Less than an hour from Kelowna, Big White is a popular destination for local skiers and snowboarders. But it’s convenient for visitors, too, who can fly into YLW and shuttle straight to the resort for a winter vacation. Here’s a sampling of what to expect.

BY KAT TANCOCK

GREAT TERRAIN

IDEAL CONDITIONS

Big White’s 2,765 acres of patrolled terrain include 118 designated trails, 105 kilometres of marked runs and a 777-metre vertical drop.

The area usually gets around 750 centimetres of annual snowfall, with average temperatures in the winter season of about -5 degrees Celsius.

STAY UP LATE Sundown doesn’t mean that skiers have to pack it in. The resort offers 38 acres of night-skiing, open five days a week (seven at peak times).

NON-SKI ALLURE

NORDIC DRAWS

Other on-resort activities include tubing, ice-skating, dog sledding and snowmobiling. You can also try your hand at scaling the resort’s 60-foot iceclimbing tower.

Cross-country skiers and snowshoers can enjoy 25 km of trails, 14 km of which are groomed daily. Join a guided snowshoe tour to learn more about the natural environment.

EXCELLENT APRÈS Après-ski options include two spas and eight lounges and bars. Or book a custom wine-tasting with Wine Your Way Home; they’ll bring the experience right to your hotel room.

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THREE MORE TO TRY

1 SILVER STAR MOUNTAIN RESORT About an hour north of YLW, Silver Star is known for being family-friendly, though it has plenty of double-blacks on the back side to keep experts happy, too. Plus, it’s a paradise for cross-country skiers, with 105 km of varied trails between the resort and the connected Sovereign Lakes area.

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Stay Amazing To reserve your room, call 800.MARRIOTT or visit fairfieldinn.com

Fairfield Inn by Marriott Kelowna 1655 Powick Road Kelowna, BC V1X 4L1 T 250-763-2800 fairfieldinn.com/YLWFI

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2 SUN PEAKS RESORT

PHOTOS: BIG WHITE SKI RESORT, ADAM STEIN, ROYCE SIHLIS

Located near Kamloops, Sun Peaks is the country’s second-largest ski area, with 4,270 acres of terrain and a longest run that clocks in at 8 km. Specialized ski camps include Beyond the Groomers— three days of lessons for intermediate to expert kids or adults in skiing or boarding the steeps, powder, moguls and trees.

3

Phone today to arrange your family’s appointments for comprehensive eye health and vision examinations.

New patients welcome.

REVELSTOKE MOUNTAIN RESORT This is the place where ski instructors go on vacation. With the highest vertical on the continent (a whopping 1,713 metres) and 9 to 14 metres of annual snowfall, the resort boasts plenty of terrain to keep expert skiers engaged. Or sign up for a backcountry touring package to get onto untouched slopes.

Dr. Noel Erhardt Dr. Lucas Erhardt Dr. Danny Walker Kelowna 250-765-1424 West Kelowna 250-768-4020

www.visionfirst.ca FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 27

SERVICES

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FOOD & BEVERAGE YLW CONNECTION 1 WhiteSpot Restaurant and Lounge 4:30 am - 8 pm 2 WhiteSpot Restaurant and Lounge 3 Tim Hortons

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SERVICES

RETAIL

4 Airport Shuttle Kiosk 9:00 am - 5:00 pm 5 Car Rental Kiosk 6 am - 12 midnight 6 Canada Customs office 8 am - 12 midnight 7 Commissionaires 7:30 am - 7:30 pm 8 Lost Baggage Office 7:30 am - 7:30 pm 9 Airport Ambassadors 7:30 am - 7:30 pm ? Information; Tourism Kelowna Visitor Info Kiosk 8:30 am - 8:30 pm

10 Okanagan Estate Wine Cellar 5 am - 8 pm 11 Okanagan Duty Free & OK Style Gift Shop 5 am - 8 pm Duty Free Opens 90 min. prior to International/ Transborder flights 12 Happy and Grateful Shoe Shine Service 9 am - 5 pm 13 Skyway Gifts and Souvenirs 4 am - 8 pm 14 Best Buy Electronics, Vending Outlet

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WINTER 201

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Free spirited and audacious designer Kenzo Takada, known as "the most Parisian of Japanese fashion designers", has designed an exceptional collection of fabrics and ceramics for Roche Bobois. To dress the Mah Jong sofa, he drew inspiration from traditional kimonos of the NĂ´ theater.

He reinterpreted the motifs and colors, creating delicate and sophisticated harmonies that symbolize the three times of the day: Asa (morning), Hiru (noon), and Yoru (evening).

Photo: Michel Gibert, image for advertising purposes only. Special thanks: Stone Sculpture museum of the Kubach-Wilmsen Foundation.

Kenzo Takada dresses the Mah Jong

Mah Jong. Modular sofa system, design Hans Hopfer.

Upholstered in NĂ´ Gaku fabric, Yoru version, designed by Kenzo Takada for Roche Bobois.

Manufactured in Europe.

French Art de Vivre

CALGARY - 225 10 th Avenue SW - Tel. 403-532-4401 VANCOUVER - 716 West Hastings - Tel. 604-633-5005

FALL 2017/WINTER 2018 31 www.roche-bobois.com

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