YLW Connect Fall 2018 Winter 2019

FALL 2018/WINTER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY

CONNECT KELOWNA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT MAGAZINE

WHERE TO NEXT? FROM CUBA TO CHINA, 10 DESTINATION IDEAS FOR YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE

1 YLW CONNECT INSIDE: AIRPORT NEWS

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LOCAL FINDS

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TRIP TIPS

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FOOD & DRINK

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COVER: HAVANA, MARLA HOLDEN/ALAMY PHOTOS: NIKADA/ISTOCK; LORD RUNAR/ISTOCK; ROYCE SIHILIS/REVELSTOKE MOUNTAIN RESORT

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CONTENTS AIRPORT INSIDER 5 Welcome Message 6 In the News

10 Day Trips in Mexico

18 Escape to the City

Great adventures near Cancun, Puerto Vallarta and Los Cabos.

From Varadero to Havana: how to make the most of a visit to Cuba’s capital.

8 Airport Insider 28 YLW Services 30 Destination Map

12 Local Take: Victoria Artist Luke Ramsey shares some of his all-time favourite spots in the city he calls home.

9 Trends to Try

15 To Seattle and Beyond

Experience some of the latest travel trends in one of these easy-to-access destinations.

A quick flight from YLW to SEA can get you that much closer to your dream trip to Asia.

22 Winter in Wonderland

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An insider’s guide to skiing in the Okanagan Valley.

27 Get Cultured in K-Town A closer look at Kelowna’s burgeoning arts scene.

FALL 2018/WINTER 2019

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CONNECT Sam Samaddar Airport Director Philip Elchitz Senior Airport Operations Manager Lori Seemann Business Development and Community Relations airport@kelowna.ca

Media & Marketing Solutions

RedPoint Media Group Inc. Pete Graves President & CEO Joyce Byrne Group Publisher Pritha Kalar Publisher Jill Foran Editorial Director Teresa Johnston Art Director Chelsea Skelly Graphic Designer Sandra Jenks Client Relations Manager Mike Matovich Production Manager Erin Starchuk Print Advertising Coordinator Rob Kelly Audience Development/ Reader Services Manager Lindy Neustaedter Director of National Sales Melissa Brown, Deise MacDougall, Anita McGillis Account Executives ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: 1-877-963-9333 info@redpointmedia.ca

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental LGM. Statements, opinions and viewpoints expressed herein do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher.

Copyright 2018 by RedPoint Media Group Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written consent of the publisher.

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YLW CONNECT

WELCOME MESSAGE

A GATEWAY TO EVERYWHERE The team at YLW embraces the joys of travel.

PHOTO: HEATHERLY PHOTOGRAPHY/HEATHER BURLEY

AROUND THIS TIME of year, when the temperature is falling and nighttime sets in earlier and earlier, it’s only natural to start pining for a change of scenery. In this issue of YLW Connect, you’ll find all kinds of inspiration for your next getaway, whether you’re considering a culture-filled trip to Cuba (page 18), a sun-soaked vacation in Mexico (page 10) or an epic urban adventure in Asia (page 15). Kelowna International Airport is your gateway to a world of travel opportunities.

Of course, there are plenty of excellent reasons to stay and revel in the joys of an Okanagan Valley winter, too. For starters, our valley is home to some of the best ski experiences in the country—and most of them are an easy trek from Kelowna. For a closer look at the area’s must-visit hills, turn to page 22.

Whether you’re heading out on

SAM SAMADDAR, AIRPORT DIRECTOR

vacation or planning to enjoy the seasonal offerings of Kelowna and area, the team at YLW is here to help make your travel experiences as seamless and enjoyable as possible. In that vein, we’re always working to enhance the services we bring to our passengers.

Among our latest improvements is the addition of faster (and still free) Wi-Fi throughout the airport, upgrades to the Departures area and a widening of the main access road into the terminal. You can read about these enhancements, and others that are slated for the near future, on page 6.

As the largest municipally owned airport in all of Canada, YLW continues to grow and thrive, but customer service, ensuring that passengers feel safe—and excited—to fly, is at the heart of all of our plans.

Thank you for your support.

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FALL 2018/WINTER 2019

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IN THE NEWS

FRICTIONLESS CONNECTION YLW’s Wi-Fi is faster, easier—and still free.

All updates to the existing airport infrastructure are twofold in mission: to make YLW more efficient and to accommodate future air traffic growth.

GET THERE FASTER YLW’s latest round of updates includes easier road access to the airport.

BY JENNIFER DOROZIO

BY THE END OF FALL 2019, passengers driving to and from the Kelowna International Airport will get in and out quicker and with less hassle thanks to the planned completion of a two-year phased project to improve access to, and circulation within, the airport. This is one of many strategies included in the Airport Master Plan 2045 intended to expand YLW infrastructure to accommodate air traffic growth projections.

In August of this year, construction work to widen the main access road into YLW from the highway began, with the aim of completion by year-end. The work will include adding an additional traffic lane, energy-efficient street lights, a multi-use walkway and landscaping. In 2019, a roundabout is planned to improve traffic flow within the airport property. Plans are also underway to expand the parking lots.

“Access to the airport was one of the key themes from the public feedback during development of the Airport Master Plan 2045.

Short-term, we have experienced higher air 6

YLW CONNECT

traffic growth [at the airport], and this is the main driver for why these improvements are required,” says Ed Stephens, Senior Manager, Airport Development at the Kelowna International Airport.

Other recent advancements at YLW within the terminal building include upgrading the White Spot kitchen to install new equipment, new food concessions, and completing flooring and ceiling finishes within the Departures Lounge to complement the retail concession, business centre and children’s play area.

Looking to the future, YLW is finalizing concepts for a new capital program, which will include expansion of the terminal building and improvements to the aircraft apron, taxiways and runway as identified in the master plan. “The expansion of our terminal building will provide more room in the Departures Lounge, and the pre-board screening and arrivals areas, which will provide passengers with a better experience in travelling through the airport,” says Stephens.

Whether it’s for work emails or streaming cute animal videos, there’s nothing like the convenience of having your personal electronic device connect to a free and fast Wi-Fi network.

Knowing you can access the Internet when you need to, without the worry of disconnecting, lag or extra cost, can transform a customer’s experience in any business establishment.

Aware of this, the Kelowna International Airport’s development team rolled out a brand-new Wi-Fi operating system in May 2018 to replace its decade-old former system.

“The speed [is] 50 times faster, and that’s not an exaggeration,” says Garrett Packer of Liveport North America, the Okanagan-based high-speed Internet provider who headed up the installation. “We’ve eliminated some of the challenges that [the airport was] experiencing previously, like disconnects and poor speeds, and made it fast, frictionless and free.”

Now, more than 2,000 new passengers every day enjoy the upgraded service, for both practical and leisurely uses, according to Packer. —JD

GROWING THE AEROSPACE INDUSTRY Finding new ways to evolve the sector in the Central Okanagan.

PHOTO: SHAWN TALBOT/COURTESY COEDC

BY FABIAN MAYER

THE AEROSPACE SECTOR can play a significant role in the future growth of the Okanagan’s economy—that was the conclusion of a recent report commissioned by the Regional District of Central Okanagan’s Economic Development Commission (COEDC).

The Central Okanagan Aerospace Core Competencies Study, conducted by the COEDC and Tracey Fredrickson consulting, looked at the state of the aerospace industry in the Central Okanagan. COEDC director Corie Griffiths says the study helped create a better understanding of the sector’s current capacities, and also identified opportunities for potential growth.

She’s particularly excited about the idea of the Learning Factory for Advanced Composites at the University of British Columbia Okanagan (UBCO) and an Aerospace Campus at Kelowna International Airport.

“There are many opportunities, and we have the right ecosystem here.”

—Corie Griffiths, director of the COEDC

Part of a planned 30-acre innovation precinct at UBCO, the Learning Factory is designed to bring together researchers and industry with the initial goal of spurring innovation in aerospace manufacturing, as well as actually producing aircraft components. YLW’s Aerospace Campus, meanwhile, would aim to attract aerospace companies to the region by providing a facility with shared basic infrastructure and resources such as taxiways. The campus is one proposed use for

land just north of the airport. Both concepts are still only in the development phase, but Griffiths hopes the two initiatives will act as a catalyst for the industry in the decades to come.

“They would bring increased knowledge of research and development and innovation,” says Griffiths, who adds that the recent aerospace study “creates a better understanding of how dynamic, sophisticated and globally competitive the Central Okanagan is.”

The study also created a regional database of companies in the aerospace sector that will be continually updated going forward. Griffiths believes the work and planning being put into the sector right now will pay dividends in the future.

“There are many opportunities, and we have the right ecosystem here, both with the airport and UBCO’s capabilities with research and development,” says Griffiths.

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AIRPORT INSIDER Q + A

that training process, the owners and dogs both learn how and when to approach individuals should someone want to visit with the pet.

Are the pets identified as working animals?

Yes—all pet ambassador dogs wear a teal blue lead sleeve on their leash and have a Restricted Area Identity Card (RAIC) pass clipped to their collar. The RAIC pass allows us to pass through security and work airside.

What’s your favourite part of the job?

Helping a passenger or a child who is frightened and putting a smile on their face. When they tell me that petting Jeepster made their day, that’s all I need.

Since the launch of the YLW Pet Ambassador program last September, lead YLW pet ambassador Pauline Harmatny has seen how therapy animals soothe anxious travellers.

BY KARIN OLAFSON

AFTER PAULINE HARMATNY and her golden doodle, Jeepster, went through pet therapy training with Kelowna’s Pets and People Visiting Society in 2010, the duo began visiting Kelowna General Hospital, bringing smiles to the faces of patients.

Seeing the calming effects animals could have on stressed individuals—and having worked in the airline industry, where she saw plenty of anxious passengers—Harmatny felt that therapy animals should be introduced to the Kelowna International Airport. She helped spearhead the YLW Pet Ambassador program, which launched in September 2017. Today, there are three volunteer YLW pet ambassadors, including Harmatny, each working with their own trained dog.

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YLW CONNECT

What does being a pet ambassador involve?

It begins from the moment we walk through the airport doors. Typically, Jeepster and I start at the baggage carousel, then we walk around the airport interacting with travellers on both sides of security. We walk down the hallways and, usually, interested travellers will walk up to us. Then, I always ask if they’d like to pet the dog. It depends on the dog, but a shift typically ranges from 60 minutes to two hours, and currently there is a pet ambassador at the airport twice a week.

What training did Jeepster receive in order to work at the airport as a therapy animal?

Pets and People Visiting Society works in alliance with YLW, meaning all pets and owners go through training with that society. During

Do you have a memorable, on-the-job story you can share?

Jeepster and I had gone airside and there was a lady sitting in a wheelchair, waiting to be boarded. She was crying. We walked over to her and I asked if she’d like to pet the dog. She leaned over and hugged Jeepster so tight. She started crying even harder, telling me she’d lost her husband and her dog, and was flying out of Kelowna to move in with her kids. Once she finished hugging Jeepster she said, “Thank you.

I can now get on that flight.” That is why we do what we do.

Do you have any tips for passengers travelling through YLW with a pet?

What I typically do for Jeepster when we’re working at the airport is put a fold-up water dish in a bag for her. Once we go through security, I can fill up her bowl and she can have a little drink of water.

PHOTO: HEATHERLY PHOTOGRAPHY/HEATHER BURLEY

WITH PAULINE HARMATNY

Does Jeepster act differently when she’s at work?

Absolutely. For example, if we see a passenger waiting in a wheelchair, she will almost pull me over to them, immediately move to the side of the wheelchair and sit in a way so the passenger can pet her. She just knows how to offer comfort.

TRENDS TO TRY

STAY COOL Whether it’s taking a hands-on cooking class or immersing yourself in Insta-worthy art installations, these travel trends are sure to boost the enjoyment factor of your next vacation.

Best of all, you can try them in places that are just a flight away from Kelowna.

PHOTO: COURTESY ALICE LEE

BY ALYSSA SCHWARTZ

INSTA-FRIENDLY MUSEUMS

COOKING LESSONS

TRY THE TREND IN: SEATTLE Museums around the world have been upping their Instagram appeal with playful, interactive installations that look great in photos. For the perfect selfie backdrop, head to Seattle’s Chihuly Garden and Glass. Showcasing the wondrous works of glass artist Dale Chihuly, the exhibit boasts 1.5 acres of whimsical, colourful artwork. From a massive glass and steel house that’s anchored by a mammoth sculpture in fiery shades of red, yellow and orange, to lush beds of camellias and daylilies that display more of Chihuly’s unique creations, the display delivers major #gramgoals.

TRY THE TREND IN: RIVIERA MAYA Food isn’t just the way to someone’s heart—it’s also a tasty vehicle for learning about a place, its people, culture and history. Food tours are one fun option for exploring the culinary offerings of a destination, but cooking lessons—in which you get to roll up your sleeves and prepare local delicacies for yourself— offer a unique first-hand appreciation. At Rivera Kitchen Tulum you can discover the traditional dishes of the Mayan Riviera (and other Mexican regions) in Chef Lily’s colourful kitchen, cooking up a menu that might include homemade tortillas, fresh salsa, traditional soups and stews, and other authentic foods.

ELEVATED AIRSTREAMS

NEW AGE RELAXATION

TRY THE TREND ON: PENDER ISLAND First launched in 1929, iconic Airstream trailers are being reborn as one of the hottest accommodation options around.

With a sleek, vintage style reminiscent of airplanes from past eras, these trailers are kitted out with modern amenities that take glamping to the next level. Hop a ferry from Sidney, B.C. (near Victoria International Airport), to Woods on Pender, a luxury camp on Pender Island with seven designer trailers. No need to rough it: each Airstream boasts a queensized bedroom (some have sofa beds, too), private bathroom with shower, and amenities such as air conditioning, Wi-Fi, LED TVs and Bose speakers.

TRY THE TREND IN: SCOTTSDALE Forget aggressive massages that leave you feeling anything but relaxed. Used in Tibetan cultures for centuries, singing bowls are currently being embraced by cutting-edge spas for their gentle vibrations. The bowls’ vibrations are used to stimulate the nervous system, improve circulation and promote better sleep and relaxation. In Scottsdale, Ariz., one of North America’s foremost spa destinations, you can check out this new-agey treatment for yourself in a 60-minute session at the Well & Being Spa at the Fairmont Princess and in yoga sessions at the new wellness resort CIVANA.

Seattle’s Chihuly Garden and Glass

FALL 2018/WINTER 2019

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TRIP IDEAS EASY ESCAPES

DAY TRIPS IN MEXICO

A Mexican beach vacation is always alluring, but if you’re looking for more in a holiday than just sand and sunscreen, take a break from the beach with one of these memorable day trips.

FROM CANCUN TO ISLA MUJERES Just a 13-kilometre, 20-minute ferry ride from Cancun, Isla Mujeres is a laid-back escape from the bustling, built-up hotel zone. And, since the island is a mere seven kilometres long and 0.7 km wide, it’s easy to take in all of its charms in a day. Once a sanctuary for Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of fertility, the moon and medicine, Isla Mujeres means “island of women” in her honour. Head to the southernmost point to explore the remains of a temple bearing the goddess’s name.

For a unique cultural experience, check out Museo Subacuático de Arte (MUSA), an underwater museum that boasts some 500 sculptures, viewable via a snorkel, scuba dive or, if you prefer not to get wet, a glass-bottom boat ride.

CONNECT Direct seasonal flights to Cancun depart YLW via WestJet and Sunwing Airlines (Nov-April) and Air Transat (Dec-April).

10 YLW CONNECT

FROM PUERTO VALLARTA TO SAYULITA Known for its surfer culture, Sayulita, a traditional fishing village about an hour north of Puerto Vallarta, has become a popular destination in its own right. But with its cobblestoned streets lined with galleries and handicraft shops, its peaceful vibe, and its easy access from Puerto Vallarta, it also makes for an ideal day trip. Save your souvenir shopping for the finely beaded jewelry and other works that are the hallmark of the local Huichol indigenous community; at Galeria Tanana, run by the non-profit Huichol Center, all proceeds go to projects that help to sustain cultural traditions and provide support to impoverished local communities.

Surrounded by jungle and mountains, Sayulita also packs a ton of adventure. Whether you opt for a zipline canopy tour, a horseback ride, an ATV adventure or a guided hike, the wilderness around town offers a chance to glimpse hundreds of species of tropical birds, not to mention spectacular views of Sayulita Bay. CONNECT Direct seasonal flights to Puerto Vallarta depart YLW via WestJet (Oct-April) and Air Transat (Dec to April).

FROM LOS CABOS TO TODOS SANTOS One of Todos Santos’ main draws is a fallacy: while many visitors flock here to pay homage to the Hotel California, it turns out this rustic local icon is in no way connected to the Eagles song that shares its name. But that doesn’t mean Todos Santos, located just under an hour north of Cabo, isn’t worth the trip on its own merits. One of Mexico’s designated Pueblo Mágicos (a select group of small Mexican towns honoured by the government for their natural beauty and cultural importance), this arty enclave is chockablock with bohemian boutiques, galleries featuring works by local artists, and a thriving festival scene. The only challenge with day-tripping here might be drumming up the desire to leave.

CONNECT Direct seasonal flights to Los Cabos depart YLW via WestJet (Oct-April).

PHOTOS: DON COUCH/ALAMY; JODI JACOBSON/ISTOCK; LUCIANO LEON/ALAMY

BY ALYSSA SCHWARTZ

The lifestyle you desire.

A community to call your own.

An opportunity to make a difference.

The choice is yours.

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LOCAL TAKE

FOR GREAT OCEAN VIEWS FAIRFIELD “I live in Fairfield, so that’s where I tend to gravitate for a beach walk. I love the views [across the Strait of Juan de Fuca] of the Olympic Mountains and seeing the lights of our neighbour south of the border. You’ll also see amazing sunrises and sunsets from here.”

Luke Ramsey On

VICTORIA

BY KARIN OLAFSON

CONNECT Direct flights to Victoria depart YLW twice daily via WestJet and Pacific Coastal.

12 YLW CONNECT

FOR INDEPENDENT STORES DOWNTOWN “If I’ve had a good day or finished a big project, I often go downtown to Ditch Records and treat myself to a record or two.

And Russell Books, an amazing second-hand bookstore, is down the road on the same street. I like that there’s a concentration of different restaurants and shops in a small area, yet, despite its density, Victoria’s downtown has still got that nice community vibe about it.”

FOR DRINKS

FOR URBAN BIKE RIDES VIC WEST “I like biking over the new Johnson Street Bridge from downtown into Vic West—it’s like going into a different town with its natural areas, like Banfield Park, and its recent urbanization. Right on the Galloping Goose [a 60-kilometre regional multi-use trail] is Caffe Fantastico Bar-Deli.

Its garage-style doors open up and, on nice days, I like to hang out there with a coffee and draw, feeling the breeze come through.”

BURNSIDE/ROCK BAY “The beer scene in Victoria is crazy good, and Rock Bay is a hub for local brewers.

There are a few of them in that area, like Moon Under Water and Hoyne Brewing. One of my favourites is Driftwood Brewery—their beers are bold and flavourful.

I also worked with the City of Victoria on Concrete Canvas, a collection of murals throughout Rock Bay by international, national and local artists that launched in August 2018. Locals and tourists can get off the beaten track to check them all out before stopping in at one of these breweries.”

FOR ARTS LOVERS FERNWOOD “What’s cool about Victoria is that there are different artistic spots and galleries all around, but I think Fernwood has a really creative vibe. There’s street art everywhere, like on telephone poles around the community. The Belfry Theatre [a restored 19th-century church that’s home to a contemporary theatre company] is here too, right in Fernwood Square.”

PHOTOS:M. GARFAT/MGP/ALAMY; DOWNTOWN VICTORIA BUSINESS ASSOCIATION; CITYCRAFTBEERS.COM; LARA BRUSCHINSKI

Victoria is known for its classic, English-style architecture, but venture away from the Inner Harbour and you’ll see that the city is also filled with contemporary artistic hubs and creative projects.

As Victoria’s first Artist in Residence—a title he’ll hold until the end of 2018—Luke Ramsey is helping Victorians “keep art in mind” by livening up public infrastructure with bright murals and other creations. When he isn’t working, Ramsey likes biking along Victoria’s pathways, sipping on local craft beer or simply enjoying artistic areas in town. Here, he shares some of his favourite local neighbourhoods to explore.

Direct flights from Kelowna We fly to Puerto Vallarta on Fridays and Sundays and to Cancun on Saturdays all winter long

2018 World's Best Leisure Airline

FALL 2018/WINTER 2019 13

WE ARE OAK BAY.

EXPLORE

OAK BAY

WE ARE THE OLD, THE NEW, THE OUT THERE, AND THE OPEN AIR. Oak Bay is a pocket masterpiece, a beautiful corner of Vancouver Island that manages to pack in more of everything else than anywhere else. We’ve got sand, a cool ocean and hot shopping, so you’re spoilt for choice. What’s it to be? Biking or bruschetta, kayaking or crab cakes, haute couture or hot tea? You decide.

JUST 10 MINS FROM DOWNTOWN VICTORIA! EXPLORE

EXPERIENCE

VISIT THE VICTORIA VISITOR CENTRE OR CHECK US OUT ONLINE AT WWW.OAKBAYTOURISM.COM

Spell of the Yukon Introducing a luxury boutique hotel experience on the Yukon River waterfront in downtown Whitehorse.

Only a 2 hour flight from YLW on Air North.

FOLLOW YUKONHOTELS

YUKONHOTELS.COM

101 MAIN ST. WHITEHORSE - TOLL FREE: 1-877-484-3334 14 YLW CONNECT

STAY

GLOBAL PURSUITS

TO SEATTLE AND BEYOND

PHOTO: SEAN PAVONE/ALAMY

Adventures in Asia await.

ASIA IS AN OCEAN AWAY, but flying from Kelowna to Seattle via Alaska Airlines will get you that much closer. From the Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, you can then fly directly to a variety of super-dynamic Asian cities, each one offering its own unique spirit and vibe. Here, to get you inspired, we asked travel writer Tim Johnson to share some of his favourite experiences in three of Asia’s most popular destinations.

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IT’S BEEN CALLED CHINA’S MOST glorious palace, and I can immediately see why. I’ve kicked off my adventures in Beijing at the Forbidden City, a 15th-century palace complex that once served as the exclusive enclave of the emperor, his staff and family. Also known as the Palace Museum, this sprawling site contains almost 1,000 historic buildings, replete with gorgeous courtyards, elaborately carved dragons and artwork from the Ming and Qing dynasties. In awe, I pass by the Gate of Heavenly Peace and explore the Three Great Halls, feeling like an imposter in a sacred place.

While the Forbidden City was where the royalty dwelled, it was the humble hutongs that, for centuries, served as the hubs of everyday life in China’s capital, and I’m eager to roam them.

These narrow alleyways, lined with tiny homes, provided a remarkable measure of intimacy. Too narrow to accommodate markets or even private ensuite bathrooms, hutong neighbourhoods were places where many aspects of life were shared among neighbours, from buying food from local vendors who rolled through with pushcarts, to lining up for the communal water closet.

Today, in a city that’s constantly reinventing itself, I learn that many historic hutongs have been bulldozed and replaced with glassy condos and offices. But, near Beijing’s famous Bell and Drum Towers, updated hutongs live on—now home to hipsters, artists and endless modern offerings.

Pushing through the crowds, I browse through ironic T-shirt stalls, stores selling vintage Mao memorabilia, and artisanal tea shops. Then, walking deeper into the warren of back lanes, I stumble upon a hutong that actually appears unchanged by modern times, a historic home to maybe a dozen people. I take a moment to enjoy the peace before I’m swept away by another reinvention.

16 YLW CONNECT

SHOPPING IN TAIPEI FROM THE OBSERVATION DECK OF TAIPEI 101, I take in the sprawling megalopolis of Taiwan’s largest city. Having been whisked to the top by an elevator that until recently held a Guinness World Record as the world’s fastest (spiriting me upwards at 1,010 metres per minute), I observe the super-charged city of 2.7 million.

The heart of a long-capitalist destination sitting next to a communist superpower, Taipei has developed into one of Asia’s greatest marketplaces, and I try to make out the street markets and malls from Taipei 101’s great height.

Riding that same super-fast elevator back to the ground, I decide it’s time to get busy and head to the nearby Songshan Cultural and

Creative Park, a former factory set in the heart of the city, next to an ecology pond. Back in the 1930s and ’40s, tobacco was rolled and exported from here by 1,200 employees, but this hulking structure has now been converted into a hub of creative industry, providing inexpensive studios for designers and artists, from a glass sculptor whose work is on display at the Louvre to cool coffee shops and bookstores.

It also houses the Songyan Style Gallery, a screen-print operation where I decide to design my own bag.

Feeling a bit like I’m Andy Warhol, I first choose the bag and the motif, a stencil combining birds and palm trees and frogs. Under

PHOTOS: VINCENT ST THOMAS/ISTOCK; SEAN PAVONE/ALAMY; ANDREW WATSON

HISTORY AND HIPSTERS IN BEIJING

CULINARY ADVENTURES IN HONG KONG

the careful watch of an attentive supervisor, I lay the screen over and spread the ink—not too thick!—at a 45-degree angle.

The art comes out a bit blotchy, but the bag is good enough to use for further shopping adventures in Dadaocheng old town, which is not too far away. Developed as a hot spot of importing and exporting during Japanese colonial times, these quiet back streets are filled with a variety of little shops, from those selling items like gourmet cookies and organic soap, to a store playing on the famous Made in Taiwan label (everything there is made here).

My new bag begins to fill up, but I continue on—browsing through air-conditioned malls,

underground bazaars and the sprawling Ximending, a pedestrian zone that’s home to high-end labels and welcomes millions of shoppers each month.

Hungry, I finish my adventures at Ningxia Night Market, a daily market that includes as many as 200 food stalls. Pushing through the crowd, I eventually fill up on rice dumplings, octopus balls and strange and wonderful barbecue—enough to fuel me for another day of shopping tomorrow.

CONNECT Direct flights to Seattle depart YLW multiple times a day via Alaska Airlines.

A RENOWNED CULINARY DESTINATION, Hong Kong is one of just 13 places outside of Europe where restaurants can receive a Michelin star. From the experimental fusion at Bo Innovation in Wan Chai (three stars) to Tang Dynasty Cantonese at T’ang Court (also three stars), some of the world’s best food can be found here.

Yet, despite its high-end culinary offerings, this massive region has never lost touch with its roots as a raffish, rowdy port. To find just a taste of that legacy, I pack my chopsticks and hop on the Star Ferry, making my way across Victoria Harbour to Kowloon, where the street life is electric and the street food is revered.

Shouldering past the crush of people browsing at the Ladies’ Market—a pedestrian shopping street—I head to the nearby food stands in the Mong Kok neighbourhood. There, as the smell of cooking meat wafts around me, I indulge in grilled squid tentacles (a little chewy), rich curry fish balls, and deep-fried pig intestines, which go down with a satisfying crunch.

Then, for a change of pace, I opt for tea inside the nearby Peninsula Hong Kong hotel, a tradition dating back to colonial times. Amid towering columns, away from the street traffic outside, I marvel at my palatial surroundings, sticking out my pinky as I sip loose-leaf tea and select dainty scones from a three-tier platter.

But soon, it’s back to the bustle. The next day, I take the subway, under the water, to Hong Kong Island and lunch in Wan Chai at a food hall with aquarium-lined walls. I select a few random items off the menu, all of it in Cantonese.

Michelin cuisine awaits me in the near future, but for now, I’m happy to down plate after plate of mystery food—all of it delicious.

FALL 2018/WINTER 2019 17

CUBAN VACATION

ESCAPE

TO THE

CITY The beaches of Varadero may beckon, but, on your next trip to Cuba, be sure to make time for Havana.

CANADIAN SUN-SEEKERS have a long-standing love for Varadero, that 20-kilometre stretch of white-sand beach on Cuba’s Hicacos Peninsula that has a resort for everyone (50 at last count, with about 20,000 rooms).

This is where we go for what’s affectionately known as “fly and fry” vacations. Suntan, swim, read, sail, snorkel, belly up to the buffet, drink mojitos, repeat. Extreme days involve scuba diving, fishing and golf.

But, when we want a hit of culture, it’s Havana that beckons. The Cuban capital, about two hours away from Varadero, celebrates its 500th anniversary in 2019. Here, we offer a few ideas for making the most of a Havana sojourn (in the middle of your beach vacation).

18 YLW CONNECT

PHOTO: DIEGO GRANDI/GETTYIMAGES

BY JENNIFER BAIN

HISTORY HIGHLIGHTS To celebrate the city’s 500th birthday, take the time to soak up its past. Cubans are history whizzes, and you’ll learn a lot simply by striking up conversations as you wander through La Habana Vieja (Old Havana, the historic city centre and a UNESCO World Heritage Site full of Baroque and neoclassical monuments). Stroll along the eight-kilometre Malecón—the crumbling boulevard, promenade and seawall—and enjoy the parks, monuments and street life that line the way.

For some guided options, the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, an art deco landmark constructed in 1930, offers tours that also explore a Cuban Missile Crisis-era tunnel system on the grounds. Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña, meanwhile, is best known for its evening canon-firing ceremony, complete with actors in period costume. And on the outskirts of Havana, Finca Vigía, where Ernest Hemingway lived for two decades and wrote The Old Man and the Sea, has been preserved as a museum.

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FOR AUTHENTIC CUBAN FLAVOURS There’s one word to know to eat well here—paladar.

Cuba’s private restaurants are proliferating. Visit Paladar Los Amigos, a casual spot where it’s a tough call between the picadillo (spiced ground beef) and ropa vieja (shredded beef). For something fancier, try the Barack Obama-approved Paladar San Cristóbal, but be sure to reserve.

Meanwhile, for great street food, seek out Old Havana vendors selling churros and coco glace (ice cream served in coconut shells). And for a touristy but truly fun experience, try Hemingway’s favourite watering holes—El Floridita for daiquiris and La Bodeguita del Medio for mojitos.

NATURAL WONDERS The spectacular Cuevas de Bellamar in Matanzas (between Varadero and Havana) are Cuba’s oldest tourist attraction. Discovered by a Chinese farm worker in 1861, the caves are a national monument, and a small portion of them are open daily for guided tours. Start at a modest ground-level museum, descend 159 steps, and then marvel at stalactites, stalagmites, crystals and even a “fountain of youth” in spacious underground galleries.

MUSIC MUSTS All of Cuba is infused with live music. In Havana, you’ll hear it just about everywhere.

Sunday rumba parties in Callejón de Hamel—a tiny, art-filled alley that celebrates the Afro-Cuban religion Santería—start around noon and run several hours. Habana Café, attached to the Meliá Cohíba hotel and decorated with vintage cars and an airplane, boasts cabarets and Cuban big bands like the Buena Vista Social Club.

Across the street, the Jazz Café is on the top floor of the Galerías de Paseo shopping centre. For something completely different, try Submarino Amarillo. Cubans have a strange affinity for The Beatles, and this is where they indulge it. The club is next to Parque Lennon where Fidel Castro, who famously banned Beatles music, reversed course decades later and lovingly unveiled a bronze statue of John Lennon.

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Near downtown, in the western suburbs, is Fusterlandia, a fishing village-turned-eccentric living art museum.

Start at Casa Fuster, the studio home of visual artist José Fuster, with a self-guided tour and short video to learn about how a personal mosaic project morphed into a neighbourhood transformation.

Afterward, wander the village streets to enjoy colourful mosaics, art installations and murals.

In Old Havana, watch leading graphic artists and printmakers at work in Taller Experimental de Gráfica (their art is for sale).

For something a little edgier, visit Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) in the Vedado neighbourhood. The converted cooking-oil factory is a multi-purpose venue that explodes with a riot of visual art, fashion, film, music, architecture and dance happenings (open Thursdays to Sundays from 8 p.m. to 3 a.m.).

CONNECT Seasonal direct flights to Varadero depart YLW every Friday via Sunwing Airlines (Nov–April).

PHOTOS: JENNIFER BAIN; CUBA TOURIST BOARD

ART STOPS UNDER THE RADAR

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SKI GUIDE

WINTER IN WONDERL 22 YLW CONNECT

BY LISA KADANE

“THIS IS WINTER,” my son declared as fat snowflakes floated down from the night sky.

We snuggled under a blanket and enjoyed the horse-drawn sleigh ride to Wild Horseman’s Cabin, a rustic refuge deep in the woods at SilverStar Mountain Resort. There, inside the cozy log structure, the mugs of cocoa and large oatmeal cookies perfectly capped off the first day of our ski season.

We had just moved to the Okanagan Valley and, being avid skiers, aimed to visit as many winter resorts as possible during what would become one of the most epic seasons on record.

Our opening weekend at SilverStar was merely the tip of the snow bank—we discovered mild temperatures, tons of off-slope activities, and staggering amounts of snow in every direction from our base in Kelowna.

If you’re not sure where to drop in with your newly waxed planks or board, let our valley explorations help point you in the right direction.

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PHOTO: MATTHEW MASSA/@THISMATTEXISTS

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HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SNOW TIME IN THE OKANAGAN VALLEY

SILVERSTAR MOUNTAIN RESORT

Whether you’re finding powder stashes in Silver Woods or screaming down the groomed steeps on the backside in Putnam Creek, you’ll be smitten. SilverStar, named after an old silver mining claim and located an hour northeast of Kelowna, is ideal for families.

Kids dig the compact village and its colourful buildings, which are styled after a Victorian-era mining town. And, even though SilverStar is the third-largest ski resort in British Columbia—with 3,269 acres and four mountain faces—it’s a snap to navigate, and it offers families tons of variety.

There are easy beginner runs like Far Out, perfect for all ages, and plenty of bumps and chutes. The all-inclusive My1Pass means you can swap skis for ice skates, snowshoes, a sled or even a fat bike to make use of the skating pond, tubing park and network of trails.

This season, the on-snow experience at SilverStar promises to be even better thanks to the addition of a new eight-passenger gondola that will whisk riders from the village to the summit in under five minutes.

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REVELSTOKE MOUNTAIN RESORT

Years ago, “Revy” was known best as a small community hill dwarfed by a towering upper mountain that was the purview of cat skiing. Now the resort, a two-and-ahalf-hour drive northeast of Kelowna, has literally grown up to absorb those epic alpine bowls and old-growth forests into its boundary, becoming a massive winter playground. It boasts the biggest vertical drop—5,620 feet—in North America, and probably the most snow, too (it gets between 30 and 45 feet a season).

This is a skier’s mountain, where frosty alpine terrain gives way to open glades through cedar forests, and expert drop-ins to narrow couloirs in North Bowl get the quads firing. Off-slope, the sleepy town of Revelstoke, just a 10-minute drive from the resort’s base, surprises visitors with trendy dining options, boutiques, distilleries, a brewery and bars featuring live music.

And if there’s a reason you’re not skiing or snowboarding (sore muscles from racking up vertical, perhaps?), you can add to your “extreme” bucket list by paragliding, snowmobiling, dog sledding or signing up for a day of heli-skiing.

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BIG WHITE SKI RESORT

Last April Fool’s Day, Big White joked it would be changing its name to Massive White because of how much snow was still on the ground and continued to fall well into spring. The resort averages 24.5 feet of the white stuff a season, but snuck in an extra seven feet last year.

When the clouds clear to reveal whimsical snow ghosts at the summit on Sun Run, or to show off the bewitching sparkle of virgin snow in Parachute Bowl, it’s easy to see why Big White is where Kelowna locals prefer to go riding—great conditions, fun terrain and just an hour’s drive east of the city. It’s the place to “ski and be seen.”

With a variety of on-site shops and bars, and 20 on-mountain restaurants serving everything from hearty stews at The Woods to gourmet dishes at 6° Bistro, Big White is like the Whistler of the Okanagan Valley.

It also has a boggling number of off-slope activities. The Happy Valley Adventure Park features a 60-foot-high ice-climbing tower, skating rink, and access to dog sledding tours and snowmobile rides for kids.

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PHOTOS: IAN HOUGHTON / REVELSTOKE MOUNTAIN RESORT; CMH CARIBOOS / DANNY STOFFEL; BIG WHITE SKI RESORT; APEX MOUNTAIN RESORT

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HELI-SKIING

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APEX MOUNTAIN RESORT

From the air, B.C.’s winter mountain wilderness is a blank white canvas. When the helicopter lands, you get to mark that canvas up with a beautiful shape: S. And you get to repeat that all day while you ski down glaciers, across alpine snow fields and between ancient trees. There’s also the thrill of riding a whirly bird to the top of a backcountry run.

Heli-skiing opportunities abound in the Okanagan Valley, which receives up to 60 feet of snow each season. In Revelstoke alone, four operators run multi-day or single-day trips, including Canadian Mountain Holidays, Mica Heli Skiing, Eagle Pass Heliskiing and Selkirk Tangiers.

Elsewhere in the Okanagan Valley, Kingfisher Heliskiing, east of Vernon, runs day trips into its 300,000 acres of terrain between the Okanagan Highlands and the Central Monashee Mountain Range. Guests staying at SilverStar can hop into a helicopter right at the resort, while riders at Big White can take a shuttle to Kelowna International Airport and catch the chopper there.

“We discovered mild temperatures, tons of off-slope activities and staggering amounts of snow in every direction.”

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Head south from Kelowna, past Penticton and then west into the Okanagan Highlands, and you’ll find all the snow, but near-zero crowds, at Apex, a small ski area with big terrain. The vibe here is “old school” meets “boutique resort.” Nothing illustrates this dichotomy better than, on the one hand, the historic Gunbarrel Saloon, with its famous boozy coffee poured into glasses via a modified shotgun, and, on the other, the Longshot Wine & Tapas bar, which pours a selection of small-batch wines from regional vineyards.

Prior to hitting a bar, you can rip it up down expert chutes, carve sweeping turns high in the alpine, or glide down groomed cruisers with perfect fall lines. The conical hill funnels to a central base area with two chairs and one high-speed quad (plus a magic carpet) servicing 1,112 acres, so even kids can ski independently and not worry about getting lost.

Off-slope, go skating on a loop that winds through the forest, or try fat biking on the resort’s multi-use trails. There’s even lift-accessed backcountry skiing for experienced riders who want a taste of big powder. For these reasons (and the Gunbarrel Coffee), this is a ski hill that engenders loyalty.

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LOCAL ARTS

GET CULTURED IN K-TOWN The Okanagan Valley’s central city offers everything from art exhibits to poetry slams.

BY LISA KADANE ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS DICKASON

KELOWNA HAS A REPUTATION as an outdoor destination—water pursuits and vineyard visits in the summer, skiing atop light Okanagan powder once the snow flies.

While I’m all for bundling up and heading out for some vitamin N (as in nature), sometimes staying inside for a healthy dose of vitamin C (as in culture), is just what the doctor ordered. This is an easy prescription to fill when the temperatures fall in Kelowna.

For a small city, there are an impressive number of ways to engage with the arts, all located within a four-block parcel of downtown known as the Cultural District. Inside heritage and modern buildings, you’ll find numerous venues for live entertainment.

Catch a big-name concert or WHL hockey game at the Prospera Place arena, or check out a small-run play or culinary festival at the intimate Laurel Packinghouse, where the valley’s fruit bounty was packed into crates from 1917 into the ’70s. The Rotary Centre for the Arts, a contemporary construction of wood, glass and steel, houses theatre space for concerts and dramatic performances, as well.

“There is a big cultural scene in Kelowna, and it is thriving,” says Rebecca Leboe, manager at Kelowna Tickets, a locally run box office that consolidates admission sales

to all of the city’s events, from belly dance performances to Broadway musicals.

Also located in the Cultural District are four museums worth a visit. You can learn about the valley’s geological and Indigenous history at the Okanagan Heritage Museum, or brush up on the Okanagan’s wine regions and fruit-packing past inside the aforementioned Laurel Packinghouse, which is also home to the Okanagan Wine & Orchard Museum. Don’t miss the nearby Kelowna Art Gallery, which showcases works by national and local artists.

Breweries and cafés also support local artists. Kettle River Brewing hosts open mic night for amateur acts every Thursday, while local jazz and blues bands also play on Thursdays at the Rotary Centre for the Arts.

The Marmalade Cat Café in the Pandosy neighbourhood, in partnership with the Kelowna Arts Council, displays the works

of visual artists and also books a rotating schedule of singers and songwriters who perform every Friday night.

Cynthia Gunsinger, community engagement coordinator with the Arts Council of the Central Okanagan, credits the rise of such rich and diverse cultural offerings to a growing and changing city.

“There are new, creative things happening because of the population shift,” says Gunsinger. As more families and young professionals have moved into the region from Alberta and B.C.’s Lower Mainland, the arts and culture scene has really taken off.

Not only can Kelowna now support the professionals, the city has reached the critical mass necessary to sustain amateur talent. So whatever your jam—live comedy, spoken word, rock concerts or one-act plays —chances are you can find it indoors in K-town this season.

UPCOMING EVENTS

The Music of Harry Potter Presented by the Okanagan Symphony Orchestra on Oct. 28, 2018, at the Kelowna Community Theatre.

Stand-up comedy of Dino Archie On Nov 24, 2018, Trainwreck Comedy brings Dino Archie to Creekside Theatre in Lake Country.

Elf The Musical From Dec. 5 to 23, 2018, the Kelowna Actors Studio will be performing this holiday classic.

Next to Normal In January 2019, the Kelowna Actors Studio presents this off-Broadway musical at the new Modular Theatre.

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SERVICES

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FOOD & BEVERAGE

SERVICES

RETAIL

WhiteSpot Restaurant and Lounge 4:30 am - 8 pm WhiteSpot Restaurant and Lounge 7 am - 8 pm Tim Hortons 4 am - 10 pm Subway 4:30 am - 10 pm

5 Airport Shuttle Kiosk 9:00 am - 5:00 pm 6 Car Rental Kiosk 6 am - 12 midnight 7 Canada Customs Office 8 am - 12 midnight 8 Commissionaires 7:30 am - 7:30 pm 9 Lost Baggage Office 7:30 am - 7:30 pm 10 Airport Ambassadors 7:30 am - 7:30 pm ? Information; Tourism Kelowna Visitor Info Kiosk 8:30 am - 8:30 pm

11 Okanagan Estate Wine Cellar 5 am - 8 pm 12 Okanagan Duty Free & OK Style Gift Shop 5 am - 8 pm Duty Free Opens 90 min. prior to International/ Transborder flights 13 Happy and Grateful Shoe Shine Service 9 am - 5 pm 14 Skyway Gifts and Souvenirs 4 am - 8 pm 15 Best Buy Electronics, Vending Outlet

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