Lonely Planet May/Jun 2016

VOLUME 7 ISSUE 3

CITY AT A GLANCE

MAGAZINE ASIA MAY/ JUNE 2016

The birthplace of Japanese tradition and culture in Kyoto

MAY/JUNE 2016

Win! Great Escape

LOCAL’S ROME

Rocky Mountains

A 2-NIGHTS STAY* AT THE LAGUNA HOLIDAY CLUB PHUKET RESORT

X GREAT ESCAPE ROCKY MOUNTAINS X KYOTO X VICTORIA

America’s most stirring national parks offer seasonal activities galore

ROME

The Eternal City through the eyes of its locals

TAKING THE HIGH ROAD A PUBLICATION OF

Wine and dine in Victoria’s High Country

SGD 7.50 RM 20 NT 270 RP 75.000 THB 195 9 7 7 2 0 1 0 0 8 2 0 1 7

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MCI (P) 116/09/2015, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909)

6 MINI GUIDES RIO DE JANEIRO X ATLANTA X HONG KONG X PRAGUE X STOCKHOLM X TYROL

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MELISSA M MEL ISSA ISS A LORR LLORRAINE ORRAIN AINEE C CHUA, HUA ASSOCIATE EDITOR

This month...

… Rome’s locals give us the inside scoop on where to hang, what to do and where to eat to get a true taste of the Eternal City (p52). We also head to the sweeping vistas of the American Rockies (p37) for some amazing craft beer and pioneer heritage, while the High Country in Victoria promises food and wine galore (p62). Visit the historic city of Kyoto (p30) for a glimpse into the birthplace of Japanese culture and tradition, and go on an romantic escape to some of the world’s most unique couple-friendly hotels and resorts (p78). Finally, experience the largest human congregation on Earth through the eyes of our contributing photographer as he captures soul-stirring shots of Kumbh Mela in Haridwar (p70).

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015

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Contents

Win! A 2-NIGHTS STAY* AT THE LAGUNA HOLIDAY CLUB PHUKET RESORT

Turn to p99

VOLUME 7 IS S U E 3 / M AY / J U NE 20 1 6 Extraordinary stays p78

Great Escape America’s Rocky Mountains p37

Easy Trips p25

Regulars EASY TRIPS

POSTCARDS

Your travel photos and stories 8 Stunning view of Bryce Canyon and more images from around the world

GLOBETROTTER

The latest travel news and discoveries 12 What’s up and coming for May and June around the world 13 Been there, haven’t done that – Europe’s new hot neighbourhoods that are ripe for exploration 14 Stylish new digs in Budapest and “a foreigner’s insight” into Malaysian theatre 18 A roadtrip through Australia’s hinterlands 2

MAY/JUNE 2016

Short breaks you can take right now 26 Hunt down the prized black truffle in Manjimup, Australia 27 Sun-drenched fun in Fiji 27 Colourful culture and historic streets in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia 28 Let it snow for the Queenstown Winter Festival in New Zealand 29 Cheer on colourful dragon boats and munch on glutinous rice treats for a historic festival in Hong Kong

CITY AT A GLANCE

A low-down of the best on offer 30 Kyoto retains much of the culture and tradition it helped start

GREAT ESCAPE

Your next big trip mapped out 37 As winter comes to the American Rockies, we head into the mountains of Colorado and Wyoming – the setting for some of America’s most stirring national parks, plus craft beer, pioneer heritage and seasonal activities galore

MINI GUIDES

Themed guides to take with you 87 Discover Rio de Janeiro’s beach culture 89 Stockholm’s smörgåsbord of eateries 91 The best of Hong Kong architecture 93 Take a budget-minded tour of Prague 95 Stopover attractions in Atlanta, Georgia 97 Winter activities in Tyrol: not just skiing

Locals’ Rome p52

Austria Tyrol p97 Australia Great Barrier Reef p11 Sydney p12 New South Wales p18 Tasmania p19 Manjimup p26 Victoria p63 Polkobin p80 Brazil Rio de Janeiro p87 China p12 Czech Republic Prague p93 England London p12, p23 Pilton p12 Fiji p27 France Bordeaux p13 Paris p23 Hong Kong p12, p29, p91 Hungary Budapest p13, p14 India Bundi p10 Haridwar p71 Italy Milan p23 Rome p53 Venice p79, p80 Japan Kyoto p30 Monaco p12, p23 Morocco Marrakech p81 New Zealand p14, p23 Queenstown p28 Peru Cuzco p12 Saudi Arabia Jeddah p27 Singapore p12, p22, p24 South Korea p66 Seoul p12 Spain Seville p13 Madrid p23 Sri Lanka p79 Sweden Stockholm p89 USA Utah p98 Montana p10 California p12 Rocky Mountains p37 Georgia p95

PHOTOGRAPHS: CEYLON TEA TRAILS, WIKIMEDIA, PETE SEAWARD, SUSAN WRIGHT, JNTO, ESTHER FAITH LEW

City at a glance: Kyoto p30

Features 52 LOCALS’ ROME The Eternal City through the eyes of its biggest fans 62 TAKING THE HIGH ROAD Culinary surprises abound in the rich grounds of High Country in Victoria, Australia 70 THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S STORY Witness the extraordinary ceremony of Ardh Kumbh Mela, one of the largest human congregations in the world in Haridwar 78 EXTRAORDINARY STAYS: ROMANTIC GETAWAY Reignite the spark of your bonfire hearts with these myriad options for absconding with your lover

DESTINATION INDEX

Food and wine in Victoria p62 Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings Sights

Tours

Drinking

Beaches

Festivals

Entertainment

Activities

Sleeping

Courses

Eating

Shopping Information & Transport

All prices correct at time of going to press. Prices for hotel rooms are for double, en suite rooms with breakfast in low season, unless otherwise stated. Flight prices are for the cheapest return fares, including one piece of hold baggage, unless otherwise stated.

MAY/JUNE 2016

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Behind the Scenes

How our team of writers and photographers made the May/June issue

Subscription enquiries subscribe@media-group.com.sg Advertising enquiries sales@regentmedia.sg Editorial enquires lpmagazine@regentmedia.sg General enquiries Regent Media Pte Ltd 20 Bedok South Road, Singapore 469277 ASIA TEAM Managing editor Ben Poon Associate editor Melissa Lorraine Chua Senior writers Raewyn Koh / Jonathan Gan Writer Josmin Ong Creative director Eric Wong Art director Cally Han Graphic designer Rexmond Oh Senior marketing manager Tasmin Chua Marketing executives Karlyn Ho / Rachel Tan / Sharyl Yeo Finance executive Julie Khong Regional circulation manager Kelvin Poon Regional circulation executive Zheng Zhiren Business directors Marie Yeo / Thomas Leow / Kelly Koh Business managers Alice Ng / Marina Chong/ Joan Chua MALAYSIA TEAM Sales and marketing director Jessly Pak Business director David Choo Business manager Carmen Leow Business executive Toh Kah Yin Customer service executive Nurul Hanizah UK MAGAZINE Editor Peter Grunert LONELY PLANET TEAM Director of Magazines Sue Coffin Foreign Rights Joe Revill MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES Hong Kong/ Indonesia/ Macau/ Thailand Alice Ng alice@regentmedia.sg Abu Dhabi/ China/ Dubai/ Turkey/ Australia/ Japan/ South Korea/ Taiwan Marie Yeo marie@regentmedia.sg DISTRIBUTORS Singapore Pansing Distribution Pte Ltd Malaysia MPH Distributors Sdn Bhd Hong Kong Times Publishing (HK) Ltd Indonesia PT Java Books Indonesia Thailand Asia Books Co., Ltd Lonely Planet Magazine Asia MCI (P) 116/09/2015, ISSN 2010-0825, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909), is published bi-monthly by Regent Media Pte Ltd under licence from Lonely Planet Global,Inc (part of the Lonely Planet Group).

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Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. No part of this publication is to be reproduced, stored, transmitted, digitally or otherwise, without the prior consent of the publisher. The information contained herein is accurate at time of printing. Changes may have occurred since this magazine went to print. Regent Media Pte Ltd and its editors will not be held liable for any damages, loss, injury or inconvenience, arising in connection with the contents of the magazine.

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P I LG R I M AG E O F FA I T H Photographer Mark Daffey (above) withnessed the spectacle of Ardh Kumbh Mela earlier this year and contributes to this issue’s Photographer’s Story (p70). From top, colour-coordinated sadhus (India's wandering holy men) queue outside Geeta Ashram awaiting a free evening meal; and the evening Aarti ceremony at Har Ki Pauri is full of pomp and ceremony, particularly when three priests set lamps ablaze.

Follow Mark on Instagram @markdaffey

A Publication of

Member of Magazine Publishers Association, Singapore

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MAY/JUNE 2016

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Hotel Sentral Georgetown, Penang

CENTRAL

SOUTHERN

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HOTEL SENTRAL PUDU (450460-V) No.310 Jalan Pudu, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel : +60 3 2615 9000 Fax : +60 3 2615 9119 www.hotelsentralpudu.com.my Coordinate : 3.138849, 101.710023

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HOTEL MAISON BOUTIQUE

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wholly owned by Hotel Sentral Pudu

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Hotel Sentral Kuantan

Hotel Sentral Pudu

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Hotel Sentral Melaka

Hotel Sentral Riverview, Melaka

(450460-V) No.36 & 38, Jalan Baba, Off Jalan Changkat Thambi Dollah, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel : +60 3 2145 2929 Fax : +60 3 2142 8399 www.hotelmaison.com.my Coordinate : 3.139109, 101.710333

NORTHERN

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HOTEL SENTRAL GEORGETOWN (889059-T) No.12, Lorong Kinta, 10400 Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia Tel : +60 4 218 1111 Fax : +60 4 226 9191 www.hotelsentralgeorgetown.com.my Coordinate : 5.415613, 100.326957

HOTEL SENTRAL KUANTAN (744046-D) N0.45-P, Jalan Besar, 25000 Kuantan, Pahang, Malaysia Tel : +60 9 565 9999 Fax : +60 9 565 9988 www.hotelsentralkuantan.com.my Coordinate : 3.80532, 103.328091

HOTEL SENTRAL SEAVIEW PENANG (1017974-H) No.555 Jalan CM Hashim Tanjung Tokong, 11200 Pulau Pinang, Malaysia Tel : +60 4 890 9300 Fax : + 60 4 890 8600 www.hotelsentralseaviewpenang.com.my Coordinate : 5.463563, 100.305545

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Hotel Sentral Johor Bahru

For Further Information, log on to www.hsm.my Hotel Sentral Management Sdn Bhd ( HSM ) (886249-D) No.30, Jalan Thambypillai, Brickfields, 50470 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Website: www.hsm.my Facebook: www.facebook.com/hotelsentralmanagement Weibo: http://weibo.com/hotelsentral Instagram: @HotelSentral Central Reservation : Tel: +603-2260 7888 Fax: +603-2260 1333

Email: hsminfo@hsm.my

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̐Make a Great Escape to Ecuador ̐Explore historic Hungary and its surrounds

PLUS

COMING NEXT MONTH

MAY/JUNE 2016

Rachel Khoo’s

Paris notebook The chef, food writer and star of the BBC series The Little Paris Kitchen shares the places that made her fall for the city, from a non-naff souvenir shop to an affordable fine-dining restaurant

LAGUNA HOLIDAY CLUB PHUKET RESORT IS CENTRALLY LOCATED AMID THE TROPICAL SURROUNDS OF LAGUNA PHUKET OVERLOOKING THE GOLF CLUB’S SCENIC FAIRWAYS.

Child ages below 12 years old receive daily breakfast and set up sofa bed for FREE during staying 1 May – 31 October 2016.

Cont ac t Us:

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Tel : +66 (0) 7627 1888

Postcards WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN

Bryce Canyon – named after Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce – is famed for its distinctive hoodoos, formed by frost, stream and lake erosion

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POSTCARDS Send your pictures and tell us the stories behind them: email lpmagazine@regentmedia.sg

UTAH, USA

Bryce yourself Earlier this year I decided to retrace a road trip I took with my parents through America as a child. Starting in Los Angeles, I finished up near the Grand Canyon five weeks later. One of the highlights was a return to Bryce Canyon. The vertical hoodoos, some as high as 10-storey buildings, were as impressive as I had remembered. I woke while it was still dark to wait for the sunrise.

When it crept over the horizon, the rock warmed to orange, casting long shadows. It was a breathtaking morning.

It’s rare that a childhood travel memory revisited in adulthood matches the awe of seeing something for the first time. Bryce Canyon more than did this.

Nick Jackson lives in London and drove 3,000 miles through the US

MAY/JUNE 2016

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POSTCARDS MONTANA, USA

Hail Mary During our early autumn visit to Glacier National Park, we were blessed with gorgeous weather – lovely blue sunny skies and temperatures ideal for trekking the fantastic trails that the park has to offer. We saw bears and moose, hiked amid jaw-dropping scenery and ate huckleberry ice cream. On the last day of our visit, we drove the fabulously named Going-to-the-Sun Road, and stopped to admire the sparkling blue colours and stunning view of Saint Mary Lake.

Emilia Dudas lives in London, and travelled the US with her husband

Saint Mary Lake, a location shot in The Shining, lies on the border between the Great Plains and the Rocky Mountains

BUNDI, INDIA

Prime mates On the way back from our visit to the old fort of Bundi in Rajasthan, we came across a group of monkeys sat on a wall. The way they behaved together reminded me of humans. Some acted like a close family, others like a gang of friends, and this pair you see in my photo were like a couple of lovers from an AlmodĂłvar movie. In reality, these grey langurs adapt well to human settlements and are found in villages and towns across the area.

Grey langurs are highly adaptable and can be found living in deserts, rainforests, coniferous forests, mountains and cities 10

MAY/JUNE 2016

Thomas Kirsch, from Germany, spent three weeks in Rajasthan

Globetrotter A WORLD OF TRAVEL NEWS AND DISCOVERIES

DAVID ATTENBOROUGH

‘I was ravished by the beauty of the place, now as much as when I first visited 60 years ago. There’s richness wherever you go.

Tourism on the reef is generally well managed – in my experience people are very well behaved underwater there because they are so stunned by what they see. They treat it with great reverence.’

PHOTOGRAPH: © ATLANTIC PRODUCTIONS/PHOTOGRAPHER: MARK TIPPLE

(89-year-old) Sir David explores the Great Barrier Reef for a three-part series for BBC One and iPlayer

MAY/JUNE 2016

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May 2016

June 2016

NOW TO 15

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SINGAPORE HERITAGEFEST

TAM KUNG FESTIVAL Hong Kong: The birth of Tam Kung, the patron God of Seafarers, is celebrated every fourth month of the lunar calendar. Lively processions filled with colourful floats and accompanied by dragon and lion dancers, acrobats, and martial arts performers take to the streets for a true testament of Hong Kong’s living culture.

O www.discoverhongkong.com

11 TO 14

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MUSEUMS AT NIGHT

LIGHTNING IN A BOTTLE

London, UK: A weekend of after-dark culture awaits as more than 30 venues ranging from major museums to historic properties and churches will open their doors for this annual nationwide festival. Discover new exhibitions, listen to expert talks and presentations, watch special performances, take torch-lit tours, enjoy live music in historic surroundings, and engage in a range of free and ticketed night-time activities.

O museumsatnight.org.uk

California, USA: Woodstock fast-forward to the 21st century, LiB has been described to be less of a music festival and more like a dizzying and transformational “chill psychedelic circus sideshow”. Bask in the community of five days at San Antonio Recreation Area turned campground in a lineup of electronic performances, personal-growth workshops, hikes, yoga and meditation services, and more.

O lightninginabottle.org

27 TO 18 JUNE VIVID SYDNEY Sydney, Australia: See Sydney in a sparkling new light during the annual Vivid Sydney. Each winter, the world’s best designers and artists transform the city. See stunning images projected onto Sydney Opera House, control the lights on the Harbour Bridge, play with interactive light sculptures throughout the city centre, experience great music and hear inspiring talks.

O www.vividsydney.com

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24 INTI RAYMI Cuzco, Peru: Come for magic and mythology – a nine-day winter solstice celebration that worships the Incan god Inti, Inti Raymi or “Festival of the Sun” is marked by colourful costumes, lavish banquets, and an elaborate reenactment of ancient Inca rituals, culminating in a royal procession to an ancient fortress. Take the opportunity to check out the famed Machu Picchu, the real temple of the sun.

O intiraymiperu.com

10 TO 12

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U LT R A KORE A

DUANWU FESTIVAL

Seoul, Korea: Dubbed the World’s Premier Electronic Music Festival, Ultra’s 2016 instalment in Korea will see heavyweight headliners such as Afrojack, Avicii, Knife Party and Martin Garrix take the stage, with regional supporting acts such as Mitomi Tokoto, Justin Oh and Kimkat rounding out the line-up.

O umfkorea.com

China: The two millennia-old summer Dragon Boat Festival is widely celebrated amongst Chinese communities, from small rural towns to urbanised cities.

Munch into delectable pyramidshaped glutinous rice called Zongzi and cheer on vibrant dragon boats as they race across breathtaking waterscapes.

O www.cnto.org

22 TO 26

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GL A STONBURY

ST JOH N ’ S DAY

Pilton, England: Check off your bucket list with the granddaddy of modern music festivals, modelled after the hugely successful (and infamous) Woodstock. Launched in the 1970s, Glastonbury has since become a mega-musical event headlined by the world’s most talented artists. This year’s line-up boasts Muse, Adele, Coldplay and Disclosure, amongst many others.

O www.glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

Monaco: St John’s Day is an ancient religious festival that sees a colourful procession travelling from Monaco-Ville to MonteCarlo, with folk groups forming a guard of honour around “Little Saint John” and his lamb to the Church of St Charles. A tradition not to be missed filled with music, bonfires, and a feast that goes well into the wee hours of the night.

O www.visitmonaco.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: WIKIMEDIA, KAKUTRIPPERU

Singapore: The signature event by the National Heritage Board will feature a variety of programmes highlighting the city’s unique culture and history. Attend guided neighbourhood tours, peruse open houses, and participate in film and discussion panels that delve into the heart of the Singaporean identity.

O heritagefest.sg

GLOBETROTTER

Europe’s new hot neighbourhoods $LUEQE KDV LGHQWLŞHG WKH JOREDO GLVWULFWV WKDW VDZ WKH ELJJHVW JURZWK LQ ERRNLQJV GXULQJ WKH SDVW \HDU :HŎYH FKHUU\ SLFNHG VRPH RI WKH EHVW DQG IRXQG WKH JUHDW ORFDO KDQJ RXWV WKDW DUH OXULQJ LQ YLVLWRUV CAPUCINS-VICTOIRE IN BORDEAUX, FRANCE The city’s south-central area is known for its huge market, nicknamed ‘the stomach of Bordeaux’.

This colourful artist’s apartment (US$84; bit.ly/1ZOn5XS) is also close to the antique dealers at Passage Saint-Michel, once a banana warehouse. Take lunch at La Tupina, which serves classic southwestern cuisine (latupina.com).

TRIANA IN SEVILLE, SPAIN The home of flamenco, this neighbourhood on the banks of the Guadalquivir is one of the city’s oldest.

Enjoy a sundowner on the balcony of this light, bright property (US$82; bit.ly/1ZOn71U) before seeing dancers strut their stuff at a free performance at bar T de Triana. Dine on tapas at Abades Triana (abadestriana.com).

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ANAKA, CULTURA CREATIVE/ALAMY STOCK, ISTOCK, MAISANT LUDOVIC/HEMIS/ALAMY, VECTORSTATE

DISTRICT VII IN BUDAPEST, HUNGARY Also called Erzsébetváros, this is now one of the best bar-hopping ’hoods on the busy Pest side of the Danube. Base yourself at this playful pad near St Stephen’s Basilica (US$53; bit.ly/1NminnO) before exploring local ruin bars. Cirkusz Café serves a hangover-eradicating brunch, then to WarmUp Bar for a reviving cocktail (warmupbudapest.hu).

MAY/JUNE 2016

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GLOBETROTTER NEW HOTEL

With views over St Stephens Basilica and housed within a protected historic building on Elizabeth Square, The RitzCarlton, Budapest is the epitome of elegant cool, complete with stained glass cupula and al fresco terrace that overlooks the vibrant Fashion Street (from US$255 per night; ritzcarlton.com).

BUZZ

New from New Zealand Culley’s hot sauces use only the freshest ingredients for that specialty scald – options range from the smoky Chipotle with roasted jalapenos and paprika, to the scorching “hot as hell” Trinidad Scorpion (culleys.co.nz).

Theatre, a story on relevance in an age of dissension.

Expression, art and theatre plays are said to be the fountain where human creativity springs forth and what makes us all uniquely human. When threats of censorship, suppression and blockage occur as they do in our everyday lives, that same creativity gets stifled and creative sparks that could have changed our perception or inspire feelings see an abrupt end without ever surfacing.

According to Professor Kathy Foley, a lecturer of theater arts at the University of California Santa Cruz, theatre like human creativity also requires “space to breathe”.

“You need such spaces where people can speak openly and, truly, and theatre is that space. When I look at very difficult political situations such as Indonesia during the crude politics of the Suharto time, the elites did not care too much about exercising full censorship on theatre and this allowed a space to breathe” Foley elaborates that theatre and arts are quintessential meeting places of agreement for people with dissenting views and suppression of these mediums could spell the end of creativity to many.

“You don’t necessarily have to agree with what performers say. You just have to create similar spaces for free exploration within classrooms. If you suppress such spaces, you are suppressing a person’s ability to be intelligent, to have new ideas and to seek solutions. And that’s what I see sometimes with the education system or within some forms of theatre, artists don’t want to “get in trouble”, so they suppress what is their ultimate creativity. That creativity will serve the nation better and that is the challenge, to create room to think. Theatre is only a small thing, but it creates thinking human beings.”

Wine parties will never be the same again. Smear some of Genevieve’s seafood and liver mousse onto crackers and feel your taste buds light up!

Hearty recommendations include the chicken liver with truffle and the scallop (genevievescuisine.com).

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The professor adds that this is the true essence of human capital.

“One needs to create that human capital that is not divided by ethnicity, or other things.

Education, theatre, and arts provide platforms to work through issues, to get the best thought, the best decisions and the foster the most developed people to deal with whatever is coming ahead”

GLOBETROTTER

NEW FLIGHT

Air Mauritius has recently opened up a direct flight between Singapore and Mauritius, making this exotic East African island a hot new destination for Southeast Asian visitors. The route is a strategic move in paving the way for an Air Corridor between Africa and Asia, with Mauritius taking up prime position as a key aviation hub for the region.

PHOTOGRAPH: MARK READ

Flights run thrice weekly between Singapore and Mauritius (from US$910; airmauritius.com)

MAY/JUNE 2016

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GLOBETROTTER

“Treat yourself to a little retail therapy”

WHAT A CARRY-ON!

Lipault Original Plume is defined by its bright and fashionable hues, ultralightweight quality and durable nylon fabric, perfect for that short weekend vacation – US$37 onwards

SIMPLY SCENT-SATIONAL

Combat jet lag as you refresh your mind and body with the Mt.Sapola Mini Massage Jet Lag Oil, comprising Eucalyptus and Rosemary – US$19

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KREATIVITY

The latest Spring artist collaboration from Shu Uemura shows a burst of neon colours for both cosmetics and product cases, courtesy of creative talent Kathleen Kye – US$15 onwards

COVER UP

Shade your delicate eyes from harmful UV rays with the latest Marc Jacobs SS16 collection, featuring round shapes and pops of colour

WRITE WITH ART

Namiki is a division of Pilot Corporation and the latest product is a fine depiction of Japanese emblems and mythological creatures of fountain pens, great for art lovers – US$3,333

LUXURIOUS LIFT

The latest La Mer Lifting Eye Serum targets the delicate eye area with naturally derived ingredients, and with its petite 15ml size, it’s perfect for travels! – US$260

SMART WRITING

Ever wanted to write your notes but have it digitalised as well? Now you can with the latest Moleskine Smart Writing Set. Scribble away! – US$199

QUICK AS A FLASH

Sony’s new Cyber-shot RX100 III Camera features a newly-developed zoom lens, incredible focal range and silent shutter capabilities for that sneaky photo opportunity – US$1,499

WORDS: JOSMIN ONG

PHILANTHROPY PROJECT

Grab your bottle of Kiehl’s Limited Edition Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Masque this June, 100% of the nett proceeds will be donated to Autism Association (Singapore) – US$33

Hit the road, Jack Start your engines and ignite a newfound passion for self-drive holidays by cruising through Australia’s hinterlands. The winding roads that stretch through the scenic outback or past the sapphire blue Pacific Ocean are calling out to be explored. Your only limitation is how fast you want to go.

Navigating New South Wales No trip to New South Wales will be complete without spending at least a day in Australia’s largest capital, Sydney, for a taste of some of the country’s most iconic landmarks, such as the architectural marvels of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House. The city is also known for its rich multicultural heritage of hole-in-thewall cafes and galleries. Those who love to shop will also enjoy Sydney’s Oxford Street Paddington – spend extra dough at boutiques at The Intersection, or pick up unique finds at the Saturday Paddington Markets. For just a lazy afternoon of relaxation, catch a bus from the CBD to Bondi Beach for a tanning session or head indoors at the many cafes for a freshly brewed cuppa.

The self-drive begins the next day to Blue Mountains, which is just over an hour’s drive from Sydney. The route up passes by rolling grasslands, sandstone cliffs and

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quaint colonial towns. Take a breather from driving at the town of Bilpin for fresh local produce before heading towards the Blue Mountains. The picturesque mountain range offers activities for everyone. Head to the surrounding towns of Blackheath, Lithgow, Oberon and Mount Victoria for charming restaurants, and quaint antique shops.

Otherwise make a trip to visit the iconic Three Sisters by heading to Katoomba, home of Scenic World, which features a skyway, cableway and walkway over the rainforest canopy. There are also bushwalking activities with tracks to suit all abilities. Be enthralled by the wildlife encounters, majestic waterfalls, stunning lookouts and misty rainforests of Blue Mountains.

From Blue Mountains, drive three hours to beachside Newcastle in the heart of the Hunter Region. While an arduous journey, there are plenty of sights along the way, such as Pie in the Sky in Cowan for savoury pies and aromatic cups of espresso. In Newscatle, history meets coastal allure.

The surfers’ paradise is surrounded by eight idyllic beaches located close to the CBD. Then there are the historical sites, such as Fort Scratchley Historical Site that are spectacular forays into the pioneering history of European settlements.

Make the last stop of your road trip the coastal city of Port Macquarie. It takes a three-hour drive from Newscastle and road trippers can make additional stops at Bago Vineyards and Maze for morning tea and play time in the largest hedge maze in New South Wales, as well as at the Billabong Koala and Wildlife Zoo for a chance to cuddle Australia’s favourite marsupial. In Port Macquarie itself, be greeted by salty ocean air. At the beach, take on a dolphinspotting cruise, challenge yourself with adrenaline-filled water sports or just hang out on the white-sand beach. The town is also rich in heritage and there are plenty of historical buildings to explore, such as the St Thomas Anglican Church, which was hand-built by convicts.

Touring Tasmania After landing in Hobart, hop into your car and immediately make the hour-long drive to Port Arthur, home to the best-preserved convict settlement in Australia. It’s best to go on an Introductory Guided Walking Tour to see buildings like the Penitentiary, Separate Prison and Asylum. Spookier sightseeing can also be done with the Isle of the Dead Cemetery Tour but there’s more to Port Arthur than its convict past.

The Tasman National Park is famous for its breathtaking natural formations and dazzling coastline. Other such dynamic geological formations are accessible by car and include the Tasman Arch, Blow Hole, Tessellated Pavement and more.

Return to Hobart, the capital city of Tasmania to enjoy the colonial charm of Australia’s second-oldest city. But Hobart doesn’t live in the past – a fusion of heritage and modern design promises intrigue to all travellers. Discover galleries, theatres, and craft shops in the 1830s-built warehouses

of Salamnca Palace. More history can be enjoyed at Battery Point, or at the Maritime Museum of Tasmania and the Museum of Old and New Art. For children, head to places like Mt Wellington, Tahune Forest and Bruny Island that are just on the outskirts of Hobart. These places offer fun activities, such as the Mt Wellington Descent, Tahune Airwalk or berry picking at the Bruny Island Berry Farm.

Head back out into thriving landscapes with your next drive to Cradle Mountain. Start the day early as the drive takes about four hours but it’s well worth the journey to reach the ancient rainforests, icy glaciers and cascading mountain waterfalls. Choose to stay longer than a day to go on treks up to the summit or around the glistening lake. For a completely different experience, try a scenic tour entirely on horseback or even on a four-wheeled quad bike. Feed cravings of adrenaline junkies with a Dove Canyon Tour as well. Abseil, swim, hike and waterfall jump your way through the ravine to your heart’s content.

The final destination for road trippers is in Launceston, Tasmania’s food and wine hub.

Two hours is all it takes to reach the city centre and the crown jewel, Cataract Gorge.

The natural attraction features recreational parks, scenic walks, rock climbing and a river for swimming. Tour the forge from the comforts of an 1890s boat with Tamar River Cruises and hear regalements of historical facts from the skipper. More history can be discovered at the City Park Radio Museum, Launceston Tramway Museum, and National Automobile Museum of Tasmania that exhibit interesting artefacts. Launceston cannot be toured without stops at its awardwinning wineries as well. There are many to the north of Launceston that offer wine tasting tours, degustation menus and even accommodation within the vineyards.

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A TOUCH OF THAI IN EVERY CLASS With an extensive network covering over 60 destinations across four continents, incuding New Zealand, and equipped with the world’s most advanced aircrafts, Thai Airways promises beautiful journeys every time with its signature hospitality and world-class facilities

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GLOBETROTTER

Whether you’re exploring ASEAN, Europe or the Middle East, Thai Airways has you covered. With destinations all across the world, including Rome, London, New Zealand and Dubai, you can an experience unprecedented altitude of Thai-style hospitality, even outside of Thailand.

Termed Royal Orchid Service, Thai Airway’s award-winning hospitality has been putting smiles on the faces of millions of customers since its founding in 1960. This world-class experience aims to richly engage all five senses for a flight experience that is uniquely and indubitably Thai.

With an impressive fleet of the world’s most advanced aircraft, including the Boeing 787 Dreamliner and Airbus A380, you can look forward to top-notch facilities including in-flight entertainment, spacious legroom, and sumptuous cuisine. Suvarnabhumi Airport even offers numerous Royal Orchid Lounges and even a spa for Thai Airway’s Royal First and Royal Silk Class passengers, so the luxury flight experience starts even before boarding.

Passengers on Royal First Class are pampered with semi-private suites on board the airline’s Airbus A380s and newly remodelled Boeing 747s. With interiors that draw inspiration from the rich culture and heritage of Thailand, you can indulge in lavish comfort and tranquil privacy of

your cabin, sipping flutes of chilled champagne and savouring caviar. The plush luxury pods also fully recline into 180-degree lie-flat beds so you can be sure of landing well rested and fully recharged.

Made for the business traveller, Royal Silk Class enjoy the smooth-as-silk conveniences of dedicated check-in counters, fast-track services, and access to Star Alliance Gold Lounges in airports worldwide. All Royal Silk gusts also enjoy distinctive culinary offerings designed by top chefs, which can be pre-ordered before boarding. Delectable options include beef steak with peppercorn sauce, green curry chicken, and seared salmon in tarragon cream sauce.

With colourful cabin interiors are matched with warm service and generously wide seats, Thai Airways will change the way you perceive economy class. As you soar through the clouds, choose from your cinema in the sky, browse a wealth of TV programmes that may rival your home system and live out DJ fantasies with hundreds of albums at your fingertips. On most flights, THAI offers economy class passengers an extensive media library – accessed via your personal in-seat touchscreen.

Take full advantage of Thai Airway’s “Hello New Zealand” promotion to visit the beautiful city of Auckland. In celebration of 60 years of Thailand-New Zealand diplomatic relations, Royal Orchid Plus members can now choose between three exclusive packages from Royal Orchid Holidays that encompass fly and drive between both North and South Islands. Thai Airways has also increased its flight frequency from Bangkok to Auckland from four flights per week to five, and allowing passengers from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur more frequent stopover options.

For more information, visit www.thaiairways.com.

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IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Deluxe Room King

Singapore is known for its smorgasbord of great food, exciting sights, and colourful culture, so be sure to sample an authentic taste of this bustling city at its heart – hawker centres. Slurp up local specialities such as laksa, fried carrot cake, chicken rice and char kway teow, washed down with a mug of sugarcane juice or bandung limau (rose syrup and lime). If you need an afternoon caffeine fix, the Outram Park area is brimming with cafes, including Strangers’ Reunion (37 Kampong Bahru Road) and The Lokal (136 Neil Road), both of which also serve a mean brunch.

Laksa

It helps to have a local handy to guide you through a new neighbourhood, but when one isn’t available, Dorsett Singapore offers a different kind of “Handy” – a smartphone that helps you stay connected with unlimited connectivity, Wi-Fi tethering, and 3G Internet. Not just confined to use within the hotel, Handy can also be used while out and about to get directions and discover tourist attractions. A complete city guide of Singapore and exclusive discounts and offers have been installed on the smartphone so that you’ll have the city at your fingertips.

For more information, visit dorsetthotels.com/singapore.

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Naiise

Gallery & Co. at the National Gallery Museum

PHOTOGRAPHS: 123RF, GALLERY & CO., NAIISE@CLARKE QUAY CENTRAL

Work off those extra calories and flex those shopping muscles with a hunt for the most original souvenirs in town.

Explore local brands and carefully curated stores such as Cat Socrates (231 Bain Street) and Supermama (71 Bras Basah Road) for some contemporary lifestyle accessories, pop by Gallery & Co. (1 St Andrew’s Road) housed within the new National Gallery Museum – also worth a jaunt for its large collection of contemporary Southeast Asian art – for some quirky artist-collaborated pieces, or pick up some kueh-inspired earrings, totes and prints at Naiise (6 Eu Tong Sen Street) for a glimpse into Singaporeans’ love affair with this heritage snack.

Armed with Dorsett Singapore’s Handy smartphone, be sure to check out some of the city’s most iconic neighbourhoods, including Tiong Bahru, Chinatown, Bugis Street, and Haji Lane, the last a hipster haven of unique fashion stops, quirky cafes, and gritty old-school tattoo shops.

Whatever your itinerary, you’ll be glad you have Handy with you to plan it.

GLOBETROTTER NEW PODS NEW ZEALAND’S LANDSCAPES are so eye-poppingly amazing it seems a shame to shut them out with four walls and a roof. Bringing immersive experiences to a whole new level, the high-spec PurePods in the South Island’s Kaikoura, built almost entirely from glass, blur the lines between the great outdoors and the privacy and comfort of the great indoors (pictured is the Little River PurePod; purepods.com).

KEEPING UP WITH THE ROYALS

Get a glimpse into what it means to live like monarchs at these landmark palaces and castles across the UK and Europe.

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NEW TOUR

From tasty hole-in-the-wall treats to exquisite fine dining, Gourmet Trails promises to bring your taste buds on an unparalleled journey through the world’s most notable fashion capitals. Their Milan itinerary will see you indulging in coffee and panzerotti in palazzo courtyards, chowing down on some of the country’s best osso bucco, and wining and dining at Michelin-starred establishments (www.gourmettrails.com).

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1. Buckingham Palace (London) 2. Windsor Castle (London) 3. Palacio Real (Madrid) 4. Prince’s Palace of Monaco 5. Palace of Versailles (Paris)

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British Airways flies twice-daily from Singapore to London Heathrow Airport with onward connections to cities in the UK and Europe. For more information, visit ba.com.

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GLOBETROTTER

COSMOPOLITAN COMFORTS Feel welcomed at ibis Singapore on Bencoolen

Strategically located in the heart of Singapore, ibis Singapore on Bencoolen has developed a reputation for its excellent service at economical rates. The 538 room multi award-winning property is the hotel of choice for many travellers, including business and leisure travellers. Its close proximity to shops, offices and numerous attractions in Bugis, City Hall, Little India and Orchard Road makes it an ideal accommodation option. After all, it is within the heart of Singapore where it gets the liveliest.

The hotel boasts contemporary furnishings, complimentary Wi-Fi internet services and various technology and gadgets to ensure guests feel welcome and stay connected. Electronic devices can be used in the hotel’s public areas

and a Monscierge Connect Lobby provides an interactive touch screen for visitors to check their flight status, print a boarding pass, research on the latest food and drink trends and top entertainment attractions. Going the extra mile, the hotel also provides thousands of E-newspapers and E-magazines for hotel guests to keep in touch with world news.

Each guest room is equipped with state-ofthe-art facilities such as coffee and tea makers, in-room safe, international TV channels, free Wi-Fi and USB chargers. To ensure a good night’s rest, mattresses are exclusively designed, microfiber pillows and bolsters are provided and soft large duvets are available for unrivalled support and comfort for all guests. The rooms are also designed with high-ceilings, large bay windows and timber floors to replicate a homey feel. Upgrade to an Extra Benefit Room for early check-in and late check out, complimentary gym access and complimentary use of a 3G Smartphone which gives you access to unlimited internet and unlimited local and international calls to 27 countries.

Keeping up with the MICE trend, ibis Singapore on Bencoolen has recently opened 4 brand new, purpose built meeting rooms for business For more information, visit www.ibis.com/6657

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travellers or any corporate needs. Catering for 12 to 84 people across classroom, boardroom, theatre and many other settings, these acoustically enhanced rooms offer the top form of quality any hotel guests is receiving.

Food lovers will be also be pleased with the updated menu Taste Restaurant is offering. A wide spread of international cuisines will cater to the taste buds of any nationality. Some food highlights include Chef Casey Lai’s western food and healthy set meals endorsed by K.F. Seetoh, a locally known makan guru. ibis Singapore on Bencoolen has been awarded the prestigious Certificate of Excellence from 2011 – 2015 by Tripadvisor.

EASY TRIPS

Easy Trips including

WORDS: RAEWYN KOH. PHOTOGRAPH: QUEENSTOWN WINTER FESTIVAL

Hunt down the elusive black trufe in Manjimup, Australia Begin summer in paradise on the 333 islands of Fiji Discover new sights and historical culture in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia Let it snow in the winter wonderland of Queenstown, New Zealand Celebrate an ancient Chinese festival with dragon boats and dumplings in Hong Kong

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EASY TRIPS Join the hunt for these black nuggets in the Southern Forests

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Slivers of black truffle enhance the taste of just about any dish

Learn from top chefs on how to make the most of the truffle

Truffle Kerfuffle Festival in Manjimup

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Paul Iskov from Fervor opening up the festival with a traditional Australian barbecue at the Feast and Fire opening night party. Get your fill of truffles at the inaugural Truffle Hunters Breakfast with Jesse Blake of Petition Kitchen, and at the Harvest Banquet Lunch with Kenny McHardy of Manuka Woodfired Kitchen, and Amy Hamilton of Liberte. The highlight of Truffle Kerfuffle would have to be Chef’s Cabin, an intimate cooking experience where experts teach in an informal learning environment with food, wine and of course, truffles.

From Manjimup, continue the gourmet journey with a quick trip to the Margaret River region located just a short hour-and-ahalf drive away. Hailed as one of the top wine making regions in Australia, this area boasts

wineries right next to Chef Hat restaurants. Enjoy the art of the very long lunch with visits to two boutique wineries, a helicopter flight, Leeuwin Art Gallery tour and six-course lunch with

MAKE IT HAPPEN Truffle Kerfuffle will be held from 24 to 26 June this year. An Adult Weekend Festival Pass costs US$15 per person. There are separate charges for master classes and the truffle hunt. Get tickets and other exclusive deals, such as the Truffle Hunters Breakfast, Harvest Banquet and From the Earth Truffle Degustation at trufflekerfuffle. com.au.

Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines fly direct from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Perth Airport daily. From Perth, rent a

matching Art Series wine with Flying Corkscrew Wine Tour’s Ultimate Leeuwin Long Lunch (US$765; margaretriver.com/ members/flying-corkscrewwine-tour). car to make the 3½-hour journey via Kwinana Freeway to Manjimup. Hertz has car rentals from US$50 per day.

Stay at Fonty’s Pool itself where the event will be held.

The Chalets and Caravan Park have various modes of accommodation to suit any budget and lifestyle. Camp out next to the pool in rustic style or live in luxury at the fully equipped lodge that will fit a family of nine (from US$25 per night for a powered campsite; fontyspool.com.au).

PHOTOGRAPHS: TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE

Prized by Michelin star chefs and amateur home cooks for its robust earthy flavour, the truffle will be celebrated at the sixth annual Truffle Kerfuffle Southern Forests Food Festival. The black truffle is one of the most expensive ingredients in the world and 70% of premium black truffles are produced in the small town of Manjimup in the Southern Forests, making it the largest producer in the southern hemisphere and a significant place on the culinary map.

The weekend will be filled with a variety of activities for everyone.

Catch truffle hunters searching for these beguiling nuggets, truffle dog demonstrations, local markets and master classes with celebrated chefs. This year’s festival will also include Duncan Welgemoed from Africola and

EASY TRIPS

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There’s more to Fiji than just sun, sand and suft

PHOTOGRAPHS: WIKIMEDIA, STEVETULK/FLICKR

Sun-drenched fun in Fiji What’s summer without a beach paradise destination? Right in the heart of the South Pacific is Fiji, a collective of 333 islands that make up the tropical utopia.

Well-known as a honeymoon destination, Fiji has a large pool of luxurious private islands and all-inclusive resorts that deliver world-class romance to newly-weds. But Fiji isn’t just for couples – travellers of all ages will find Fiji an ideal place to holiday any time of the year.

For a taste of local aboriginal culture, a trip must be made to Navala Village in Nadi (pronounced Nan-di), the last authentic Fijian village nestled deep in a mountainous landscape. At your arrival, be welcomed by a traditional kava ceremony before touring the picturesque village with its grass-thatched huts. Take the opportunity to mingle with villagers too as they share tales and legends of the island they live on. Continue exploring Nadi with a quick stop by the open-air souvenir market that sells handcrafted Fijian crockery and historical replicas.

With Nadi as your starting point, the other islands are all within reach by a short boat ride. Bird-watchers may want to visit Mabualau Island (Bird Island), home to a wide variety of tropical colourful birds, including crested terns, red-footed boobies and noddys.

Swim in the surrounding waters

for closer encounters with other Fijian wildlife too. The crystal clear waters of Fiji teem with dazzling technicolour fish and vibrant corals.

Another place to visit is the chain of 20 islands called the Mamanucas. Take a helicopter tour from Nadi International Airport for a great view of the undulating topography of the islets just northwest of Viti Levu.

Hop across the islands and be greeted by dolphins breaking through cresting waves. Be sure to land on Monuriki; the island made its filming debut in Tom Hanks’ Castaway.

MAKE IT HAPPEN Fiji Airways recently launched direct flights from Singapore twice weekly. Passengers from Kuala Lumpur will have to make their way to Melbourne on other carriers before continuing the journey on Qantas Airways.

Most travellers will land in Nadi International Airport on the main island Viti Levu. If flying to other islands, there are many modes of air transport (seaplane, helicopter, etc.) that will fly to domestic airstrips on other major islands.

Instead of staying at a commercial resort, rent out a private island. Dolphin Island, 30 minutes from Nadi International Airport, is a stunning 14-acre luxury retreat with a whole host of personalised activities (from US$880 per pax per night; dolphinislandfiji.com).

Jeddah’s historic streets and colourful culture Plan your next trip around cultural sights and traditional souks at the underrated city of Jeddah in Saudi Arabia. Known as the gateway to Mecca, the Arabian city has long been a favourite tourist destination for Muslims making the Hajj Pilgrimage at the end of the Islamic calendar. Beat the next wave of pilgrims by planning a trip this summer.

Although today a modern metropolitan, Jeddah has a long and colourful history dating back to 522BC. Take a trip to Historic Jeddah, a UNESCO World Heritage Site to view the spectacular architecture of ancient mosques, living quarters and the Jeddah Wall that was constructed by a Mumluk sultan to protect the city from Portuguese invaders.

Get an immediate taste of Jeddah’s culture at the many historical souqs, traditional marketplaces that sell daily necessities, such as spices, food, and home wares. Souq Al Alawi will be of particular interest just before Hajj season with its multitude of vendors peddling more cosmopolitan offerings. At sunset, the call to prayer fills the lanes with praying devotees. Another place to visit is the Fish Market west of Corniche. The Arabian counter to Japan’s Tsukiji, the Fish Market is as chaotic in the early morning from 5am to 9am when fishermen sell off daily catch to restaurateurs.

Jeddah is also well known for its

scuba diving because of its location on the Red Sea. Its biggest draws are the clear visibility of the water and the virtually untouched corals at diving sites. There is also a wide variety of marine life native to this area. Desert Sea Divers is one of the oldest and most established diving operators in Jeddah. They offer Stay & Dive packages with luxury accommodation and equipment from US$233 per pax per night (desertseadivers.com).

MAKE IT HAPPEN Value carrier Scoot will launch thrice-weekly non-stop Singapore-Jeddah flights from 2 May 2016.

Malaysia Airlines flies direct from Kuala Lumpur daily.

Jeddah is served by the King Abdelaziz International Airport.

Reach the city centre easily via taxi (from US$27) or by shuttle bus (from US$14).

Find most attractions and the business district within easy reach at Rosewood Jeddah, a premier luxury hotel situated in the heart of Jeddah’s Corniche and along the shores of the Red Sea. The 127-room hotel combines the best of modern design with the rich heritage and culture of the city within its architecture (from US$453 per night; rosewoodhotels.com/ en/jeddah).

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The ancient city of Jeddah will charm with its rich history

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EASY TRIPS

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Make the Queenstown Winter Festival your own personal playground with its line up for all ages

Queenstown Winter Festival

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Get rough on the ice with intense impassioned tournaments of ice hockey, mountain biking in the snow and even Frisbee golf. New to the line up are the Raft Race that challenges teams to make their own rafts to raise funds for Coastguard Queenstown, the Mistletoe Earnslaw Cruise, and a post Night Skiing Boat Party on the lake. Those looking for a more laidback time can enjoy nights of jazz music, comedy shows and parades, as well as an arts & crafts market with local produce and souvenirs for sale.

After spending days in the snow, go on an extreme sports journey in the adventure capital of the world.

As the birthplace of the bungee jump, Queenstown has a multitude of thrill activities for the adrenaline

junkie. Go whitewater rafting, canyon swinging or even skydiving.

In the winter season, enjoy pristine white snow at four regional ski fields in Coronet Park, The Remarkables, Cardrona and Treble

MAKE IT HAPPEN This year’s Winter Festival runs from 24 June to 3 July 2016.

The festival is held over a few different venues, including The Remarkables, Coronet Peak, Queenstown Gardens, and Queenstown Bay. Check back on winterfestival.co.nz for more updates on festival events.

Fly from Singapore on Air New Zealand to Queenstown via Auckland. From Malaysia, fly on Malaysia Airlines to Auckland

Cone for hours of skiing and snowboarding fun. Book an early bird season pass from NZSki and enjoy skiing on three peaks from US$414 or a Mt Hutt pass from US$207 (nzski.com). first before taking a connecting flight on Jetstar or Air New Zealand to Queenstown.

Ideally located within walking distance of the town, as well as facing the scenic Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables mountain range is Hotel St Moritz by Sofitel. This alpine residence offers the cosiness and warmth of a lodge with the comforts of 5-star luxury accommodation (from US$140 per night; stmoritz.co.nz).

PHOTOGRAPHS: QUEENSTOWN WINTER FESTIVAL

While the rest of the Northern Hemisphere finds ways to cool off in the summer heat, pack mufflers, coats and ski gear for winter wonderland down south. For 10 days, Queenstown will excite travellers with unique street parties, fireworks displays, international and local acts, and plenty of snow-filled fun on the mountains.

The Queenstown Winter Festival’s calendar of events is packed with original and now iconic events. The Dog Derby, Birdman, Undy 500 and Mountain Mayhem are just some of the wild and wacky activities to be expected.

Festivalgoers can also anticipate participating in winter sports beyond skiing and snowboarding.

EASY TRIPS International teams push themselves to the limit at one of the world’s biggest dragon boat races

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PHOTOGRAPH: SEE-MING LEE/FLICKR

Hong Kong Dragon Boat Carnival Make a party out of an ancient Chinese festival at the Dragon Boat Carnival. Duan Wu Jie (䤑࣭䩂), or Dragon Boat Festival, celebrated on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, commemorates the death of Chinese poet Qu Yuan in 278BC. Qu killed himself by drowning in the Miluo River and legend has it that people who admired him raced out in boats to save him or retrieve his body. When Qu’s body could not be found, his admirers dropped rice dumplings into the river to entice fish to eat the dumplings instead of his body. These are said to be the origins of dragon boat races and zongzi (䯚ᗸ), pyramidshaped sticky rice dumplings that are eaten during this festive period.

While the festival originated in

China, the Dragon Boat Festival is now celebrated in many Asian countries. Head over to Victoria Harbour to catch one of the most happening celebrations in Asia. At the Dragon Boat Carnival, watch as thousands of the world’s top dragon boat rowers compete in the CCB (Asia) Hong Kong International Dragon Boat Races.

Now in its 40th year, follow the beat of the drum and cheer on your favourite teams over three days of intense competition.

In between races, join athletes and other race spectators in a wind down at the San Miguel BeerFest.

Situated right next to the racing action, the festival will have pumping live music performances, spaces to dance, and many jugs of

frosty cold beer. Families with young children can join in the fun with the new Family Zone that will feature loads of games and interactive activities, rides, and other carnival necessities. The Dragon Boat Festival will be

MAKE IT HAPPEN This year’s Dragon Boat Carnival takes place over the weekend of 10 to 12 June 2016. There are activities all around Hong Kong but the main races are at Victoria Harbour. The San Miguel BeerFest is also held in the same area.

Admission to either event is free.

Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong’s flag carrier, flies from most

incomplete without zongzi. Hotels all over Hong Kong will be selling their own version of zongzi and some of the best can be sampled at Lung King Heen, the three-Michelin star restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong.

international airports worldwide directly into Hong Kong International Airport (cathaypacific.com).

For the best views of the race, stay at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong that faces Victoria Harbour (from US$493 per night for a Harbour View Room; fourseasons. com/hongkong).

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City at a glance:

KYOTO Japan’s ancient capital retains much of the culture and tradition it helped start

Hogon-in Temple

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PHOTOGRAPH: JNTO

WORDS & IMAGES ALOYSIUS CHAN

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K YO T O AT A G L A N C E

In Kyoto, there’s an inn called Kawaraya which is quite extraordinary. The Japanese culture fascinates me: the food, the dress, the manners and traditions.

It’s the travel experience that has moved me most.

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- Roman Coppola, film producer

PHOTOGRAPHS: JNTO

T

and writer

HE CITY OF KYOTO WAS the ancient capital of Japan for over a thousand years, and as such is still revered as the cultural centre of the country.

Kyoto was largely spared from the ravages of World War II and as a result is one of the best preserved cities in Japan with buildings constructed from as far back in history as 951.

Kyoto is home to over 2,000 locations of religious significance including the famous Kinkaku-ji, Kiyomizu-dera and Heian Jingu which see large numbers of tourists each year. Sites of cultural importance include the Kyoto Imperial Palace, which served as the epicenter of Japanese governance for prior to the Meiji Restoration and Niko Castle, which served as the home to the Tokugawa Shogunate. The city also offers natural attractions, such as Arashiyama, with its oft-mentioned bamboo forest as well as the Iwatayama Monkey Park.

An important part of Kyoto’s history is its geisha, or geiko, which came into existence at around 1750, when they served as entertainers and developed an intricate system of ranking and identification by attire. Today, young women who decide to become geisha start training from their teens as maiko before graduating to full geiko, entertaining people at private events or public celebrations.

Kyoto is renowned for its delicious food but in particular its kaiseki style, which is a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner, designed to showcase the numerous skills of the chef in the

One of Kyoto’s many heritage streets

preparation of the meal and is similar to multi-course haute cuisine in the West.

Many meals in upscale restaurants in Kyoto serve in this fashion.

Lodging in Kyoto was previously dominated by ryokan or traditional Japanese inns that provide tatami-matted rooms and communal baths but in recent years, hotels have gradually appeared in the city, providing tourists with more options for accommodation.

Strategically located across from the Imperial Palace grounds, the Noku Roxy hotel is an upscale boutique hotel offering an intimate and authentic experience to its guests. Noku Roxy

Arashiyama Jinrikisha Rickshaw

prides itself on exhibiting the best the city can offer and does so by sourcing its accoutrements from the city’s artisans.

Each room in the hotel is elegantly furnished and houses a unique artefact that reflects the local heritage and serves as an interesting focal point. Book in advance as the hotel is a popular choice for guests looking for a conveniently located hotel from which to explore the city (https://www.nokuroxy.com).

Guests of Noky Roxy will also have full access to their in-house Destination Guide which highlights attractions, dining establishments, and arts & culture hot spots within the vicinity.

Ethereal bamboo groves of Sagano

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K YO T O AT A G L A N C E

Kitano Tenmangu Shrine Originally built in 947, the Kitano Tenmangu Shinto Shrine was dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, a bureaucrat and a scholar. Michizane’s love for plum blossoms resulted in a large garden of plum blossoms grown in honour of him. Now, devotees pray for good fortune and hang placards with their written wishes in the hopes of receiving blessings of good academic performance from the gods. Visit in early spring to catch the over 2,000 plum trees in bloom and enjoy some plum tea in the nearby tea house. The main celebration, the Plum Blossom Festival, is held at the shrine on 25 February every year and is hosted by geisha from the nearby Kamishichiken district.

O kitanotenmangu.or.jp

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP One of the entrances to the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine; the inner gate of the palace, known as Jomeimon; picturesque views abound in the Oikeniwa Garden; Maiko in Matsuo Taisha Shrine

Geisha Kyoto is the last bastion of the geisha, traditional female entertainers who enthral guests with song, dance and games at private guesthouses lining the streets in the Gion area. An intrinsic part of Kyoto’s history and culture, the geisha are still in high demand amongst the city’s elite but have gradually seen a decline in their numbers due to the difficulty and length of the training required. With an estimated 200 remaining geisha living in Kyoto, visitors can sometimes see a group of them dressed up in full formal attire, hurrying from one location to the next. Viewing a private geisha performance is expensive and can be difficult to arrange as personal connections with influential locals are generally required, but other options are available in the form of Kyoto’s five annual geisha dances held in April, May and November. Tickets to these events are available from hotels and ryokan in the area.

PHOTOGRAPH: JNTO

Oikeniwa Garden Situated next to the Jomeimon inner gate within the Imperial Palace compound, the Oikeniwa Garden features a large pond and a strolling pathway lining its exterior.The path of large stones running through the pebbled front shore leading to the water’s edge and other components such as the Keyakibashi bridge and surrounding flora give the garden a stunning yet peaceful air.

Imperial Palace The Kyoto Imperial Palace was the former ruling palace of the Emperor of Japan, until the Meiji Restoration in 1869, when the country’s capital was moved to Tokyo where it currently resides. The palace is made up of several strikingly designed buildings sharing a 1,300m by 700m space with the Sento Imperial Palace Gardens. The free guided tours conducted in English should not be missed and are available on weekdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Visitors are required to complete an application form in advance, which is available on the official website, for permission to visit the palace grounds.

O sankan.kunaicho.go.jp

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Fushimi Inari Shrine As one of the most popular Shinto shrines in the area and known for its iconic vermillion gates (of which there are more than 10,000), the Fushimi Inari Shrine brims with cultural significance. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a breath-taking hike up the trails past rows of bright torii gates to reach the peak of Mount Inari, away from the clamour of camerashuttering tourists to get the perfect shot.

Arashiyama Although one of the most popular cherry blossom-viewing destinations in Kyoto, the northern part of Arashiyama is worth a gander, further from its touristy centre, and with several small temples scattered along the base of the mountains. Particularly picturesque are the bamboo groves near Tenryuji Temple which offer the perfect photo opportunity as light gently filters through the tall, swaying branches.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JNTO

Attractions

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Fushimi Inari Shrine; Hozu-kyo Ravine, Arashiyama; Nijo Castle

Nijo Castle Built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of the Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo Period (1603-1867), Nijo Castle was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique architecture and historical significance.

Walk through the sprawling castle grounds into the large garden where the imperial family used to entertain guests, and experience the grandeur of the Ninomaru Palace where the shogun would use to receive visitors.

Surviving in original form, the floors of the Ninomaru Palace are dubbed nightingale floors for the way they would squeak when stepped upon, a security measure against intruders.

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Ebisugawa-dori Kyoto is known for its collection of artisans who specialise in traditional handicrafts.

Examples of these handmade cultural treasures include intricately designed lacquerware and furniture which are still produced by stores lining Ebisugawa-dori, the “furniture district” of the city. Stroll through the street and you will be treated to proud displays of the often century-old stores’ products, ranging from simple but elegant pottery items to gold-adorned lacquerware.

Mamemasa Mamemasa is a confectionary store established in 1884 on Ebisugawa-dori, producing nut and bean-based snacks prepared using traditional methods. Historically, Mamemasa is where wedding confectionaries are purchased after furniture for the couple’s new home was secured in the neighbouring shops. Head in to sample some of Kyoto’s original snacks including goshikimame, or five-coloured beans first produced in 1887 which is made of roasted beans coated in coloured sugar.

O www.mamemasa.co.jp

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Shopping

Gion Gion is known as the most famous geisha district in Kyoto, and is located between the Kamo River and Yasaka Shrine. The area features primarily teahouses, restaurants and shops where geisha entertain their clientele.

The architecture in Gion is mostly traditional, although some interiors have been modified to reflect modern aesthetics. Visit in the night to avoid crowds and to see Gion in a more evocative light with its dimly lit streets exuding an air of bygone mystery.

PHOTOGRAPHS: 123RF

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT Myriad shops selling a variety of fashion and religious paraphernalia at Shinkyogoku and Teramachi; streets and alleyways in Gion are dimly lit at night, making for some good aesthetics; Mamemasa specialises in a variety of nut snacks, including the traditional goshikimame; an assortment of textiles, ceramics and woodcraft on sale at Ebisugawa-dori

Teramachi and Shinkyogoku Shopping Arcades Located at the intersection of Shijo and Kawaramachi along Shijo Street is a labyrinthine network of covered streets and alleys hawking a collection of fashionable goods targeted at the younger market. The eastern street, Shinkyogoku, is filled with your generic selection of souvenirs including discount watches and slogan tees. The western street, Teramachi, is an altogether more refined place, with a variety of art galleries, bookstores, and several shops selling religious goods like incense, Buddha images, prayer beads and the like.

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Ebisugawa Enraku One of the most well known restaurants in Kyoto, Ebisugawa Enraku serves traditional oden, a dish consisting of several ingredients such as eggs, daikon and fishcakes in a light, dashi broth. The dish is typically consumed in the colder periods of autumn, winter as well as early spring and is popular around the country. Visit the restaurant for a taste of what is considered by the locals as high-quality oden and admire some of items that adorn the store, relics from the 70s and 80s, as well as the luxurious inner architecture, which is reminiscent of traditional Japanese wooden homes.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A dish of rice and bamboo sprouts from Ebisugawa Enraku; umami-flavoured Gyokuro tea at the Ippodo Teahouse; an appetiser of fish and tofu at Tousuiro; the complete steak dinner set at Kyou

Tousuiro Kyoto is famous for its kaiseki cuisine, Buddhist vegetarian food and tofu. The best restaurant that specialises in tofu according to many is Tousuiro, a local chain consisting of two restaurants, with one situated in the Gion area and the other in Kiyamachi, overlooking the Kamo River. Tofu lovers should not miss the chance to sample all manners of delectable tofu meshed perfectly with other local delicacies. Of particular note is the oboro yudofu, which consists of three types of tofu simmering in a light vegetable broth in a wooden vessel, served with a light dashi sauce.

As Tousuiro is very popular, make reservations in advance to avoid disappointment.

O www. tousuiro. com

Kyoto Ippodo Tea A local landmark and a favourite amongst both locals and tourists, the Ippodo Teahouse situated on Teramachi-dori offers patrons a selection of traditional teas and a detailed tea-making experience accompanied by detailed explanations of the techniques involved with every order. Some teas on offer include matcha, sencha and bancha, alongside the umamiflavoured gyokuro, which will present a unique and pleasant surprise to your tastebuds.

The teahouse also packages its tea for purchase by customers who simply cannot get enough of their magnificent flavours. Be sure to visit the teahouse in the early afternoon to have the best chance of obtaining a seat in this popular outlet.

O www.ippodo-tea.co.jp

Food

PHOTOGRAPH: NOKU ROXY

Kyou Karasuma Situated in the basement of the Noku Kyoto hotel, Kyou Karasuma is a restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sample some of Kyoto’s high-quality beef prepared in several local styles including shabu-shabu, sukiyaki or have it grilled or roasted to perfection by the chef. Visit during the night to spend some time at the restaurant bar, Noku Bar, for some great Japanese whiskies and sake, and to take in the exquisitely decorated space.

O kyou-karasuma.com

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Great Escape R O C K Y

M O U N T A I N S

Winter has an awesome beauty in the American Rockies: explore a small but star-studded stretch in Colorado and Wyoming, starting with a capital of craft beer, before heading into the mountains for snowshoe hikes, wildlife-rich national parks and the planet’s most spectacular geysers @RGouldingTravel O PHOTOGRAPHS PETE SEAWARD

@Petersphotos A view towards 4,011-metre-high Taylor Peak, one of the points along the Continental Divide of the Americas, inside Colorado’s snowbound Rocky Mountain National Park

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WORDS RORY GOULDING

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Plan your trip 1

2

Colorado’s

3

Elk herds and hardy Rocky souls forge tracks through the snow in Mountain Wyoming’s Jackson National Park is decked out in its winter Hole, in the shadow of finest, when the forest takes Grand Teton (p46). on a secretive allure (p43).

4

Bison graze as boiling fountains erupt in an ever-changing landscape that few experience in the cold – there’s nowhere quite like Yellowstone (p48).

MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: SANDRA LEIDHOLDT/GETTY IMAGES, HOLGER LEUE/GETTY IMAGES, MATT NAGER PHOTOGRAPHY, RAY ROPER/GETTY IMAGES

Before exploring the Rockies, fuel up in Boulder, a city making the most of its mountainside environment in its off-time and its mealtimes (p42).

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ON THE ROAD

Look out for

Denver, the capital of Colorado, makes the most useful entry point for this trip.

ANA offers the shortest route from both Singapore and Kuala Lumpur with one stop in Tokyo (from US$1,498; ana.co.jp). Other airlines including Delta, United and British Airways also fly from both cities to Denver.

HOW TO GET AROUND Our suggestion for this itinerary is to hire cars at Denver and Jackson Hole airports (from around US$45 per day; hertz.com), and to take a 1½-hour flight in between them to link the Colorado and Wyoming parts of the trip (from US$495 return; united.com).

Otherwise, it’s a drive of at least eight hours from Rocky Mountain National Park to Grand Teton National Park, via some flattish parts of southwest Wyoming. The trip outlined here involves less driving than the average US itinerary; with a bit of planning, it’s possible to replace all drives with a combination of local shuttles and taxis. For example, a variety of shuttles cover the 45 miles from Denver Airport to Boulder, including SkyRide buses (from US$9 one-way; rtd-denver.com).

HOW LONG TO SPEND It’s possible to follow this route in just under 10 days, but a fortnight’s trip will be more comfortable. Yellowstone in particular is worth an extra day or two to see different parts of the park. Skiers may also want to spend more time in Jackson Hole, or add on a trip to one of Colorado’s many mountain resorts.

WHAT TO BUDGET Winter is of course peak season in the ski towns of the Rockies. Away from the pistes, however, hotels may be cheaper than in summer, with rooms at three-star establishments for around US$95–US$140 per night, and upwards of US$190 for higher-end places. In most eateries you can have a filling meal for US$15–US$22. One

thing to bear in mind is that your choice of hotels, restaurants and other services may be more limited in winter.

There is a full selection in Boulder and any winter resorts, and a wide one in Estes Park, but options are fewer in Yellowstone. In many places, guided excursions are worthwhile or even essential to get out into the wintry environment – count on around US$45–US$190 per head for such add-ons.

WHEN TO GO To see the Rockies at their snowiest, it’s best to come in January and February, especially if you want to include Yellowstone National Park in your trip.

While snow may stay on the peaks well into March and April, the winter season in Yellowstone is limited (for the purposes of most visitors) to the period between late December and the end of February, after which almost all facilities shut down again until May.

Try Huckleberry products: jams, chocolates and even jelly beans. This sweet-tasting berry grows in the northern Rockies, but there are other ‘huckleberries’ elsewhere in the US.

Watch

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HOW TO GET THERE

Bighorn sheep. These agile climbers are found across the Rocky Mountains, coming down to lower slopes in winter.

Colorado has made them the official state animal.

Woody Allen’s 1973 sci-fi comedy Sleeper, filmed largely in Colorado. One of the key movie locations was the futuristic, adobe-coloured Mesa Laboratory in Boulder, designed by renowned architect IM Pei.

WHO CAN HELP Audley Travel can arrange tailor-made winter itineraries in the American Rockies. A tour following the route of this feature costs from US$3,620 per person based on two people sharing, with eight nights’ accommodation on a b&b basis (audleytravel.com).

HOW TO PLAN Lonely Planet’s Western USA (US$24.99) has full chapters on Colorado and Wyoming, while Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks (US$19.99) offers expanded coverage of Wyoming’s two biggest natural attractions.

Find more Rockies tips at discoveramerica. com, and on state websites: colorado. com and wyomingtourism. org.

Stand astride The Continental Divide. The Rockies mark the boundary between rivers that flow west to the Pacific and those that drain east into the Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico. There is usually a sign to point out when a road crosses the exact line – it happens three times in Yellowstone National Park.

Don’t be misled If you see Rocky Mountain oysters on the menu: the ocean is hundreds of miles away. These novelty items, more of a prairie-country dish despite the name, consist of a pair of the most intimate parts of a bull, breaded and fried.

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Yellowstone National Park has up to 5,000 bison, some of which are seen here wandering past Old Faithful geyser as it steams gently between its famous eruptions 40

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See nature at its wildest...

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1. Boulder There can be few better gateways to the Rockies than this Colorado city – one that enjoys its outdoors pursuits just as much as its creative restaurants and local brews

T

HE MOVE FROM THE great plains of eastern Colorado to the mountains of the west feels as precise a divide as crossing any national border. All year round, a changing cast of hikers, bikers, rafters and skiers make their pilgrimage to the Rocky Mountains.

But before they reach this high-altitude world, there is a last hurrah of urban life.

The city of Boulder was founded on the back of a gold rush in 1859, and soon won the right to host Colorado’s main university.

Since the 1950s, its citizens have also had the foresight to put aside land for parks, and to stop their growing city from encrusting the foothills of the Rockies. These wooded heights provide Boulder’s backdrop; the most impressive are the steeply tilted shards of rock known as the Flatirons. Hiking trails begin where the houses end, and are much used by Boulderites. But not so much this morning. Curtains open to a white-out, with snow piling up on all flat surfaces at almost visible pace. The day promises to be one of indoor comforts, and luckily there are plenty to be had within trudging distance.

Breakfast comes with a dash of escapism, first of all to the sultry bayous of Louisiana.

Lucile’s has been serving Creole food in a butter-yellow Victorian house on 14th Street for 32 years. As diners on the glassed-in porch tuck into Cajun-spiced eggs Sardou or sugar-dusted beignets, a bearded man on a fat unicycle glides through the snowflakes outside. Behind him stands the Shambhala

Center: a Buddhist retreat of solid Rockies build, topped by a Far Eastern-style tiled roof. More outlandish still is the Dushanbe Teahouse, a gift from Boulder’s sister city, the capital of faraway Tajikistan. The menu is eclectic, ranging from Tajik lamb shashlik, to dishes from Korea, France and Honduras, but the design is entirely Central Asian in its painted ceiling and carved plaster panels.

Not all of Boulder’s inspiration comes from afar, however. Chef Eric Skokan splits his time between a farm 12 miles out of town and a pair of restaurants within it: the hautecuisine Black Cat and its more everyday sibling Bramble & Hare, linked by a corridor at the back. ‘Ninety-eight per cent of the vegetables we serve are from our farm,’ says Eric. ‘So is most of the meat. We have a unique climate here: we get cold air from the mountains every night, so peas, carrots and beets do really well.’ Winter is the best time to catch him in his kitchen, rather than on the farm. ‘Until the first really big frost comes along, I often haven’t cooked for two months,’ he says. Eric appreciates the local competition: ‘One of the things I love most about Boulder is the number of places owned by families. You see the personal touch.’

Boulder was also one of the early centres of the American craft-brewing revolution of the 1980s. West Flanders Brewing Company, in its brick home on Pearl Street, is part of the current generation, with its patrons choosing from up to 10 house beers while listening in to bluegrass jam sessions.

Nine years West Flanders’ senior, the Avery

Brewing Company has moved out of its back-alley premises and into a larger space on the outskirts. Like other local beermakers, Adam Avery benefits from the snowmelt in the Rockies: ‘You’d have to be an idiot to make bad beer in Boulder: the water is so good.’ In 1996, three years into the business he started with his father, he brought out the first bottled IPA in Colorado.

‘People then were sending it back, saying something was wrong with it,’ he recalls.

‘But now people want big flavour.’

A motley army of scents assaults the nose inside the barrel room, where many of the beers are to be aged. These casks retain traces of the wine, bourbon rum or tequila they once held. ‘When we get a barrel, we build a beer either to complement it or contrast it,’ says Adam. ‘I love Manhattans, so we went after a sour rendition of the cocktail: imperial stout in a bourbon barrel.’ His aim is to have 3,000 barrels to draw from, alongside the brewery’s 15 types of hops and six or more yeast strains. ‘More than half of the breweries in the US have started in the last three years,’ says Adam, ‘but Colorado still has more per head than any state after Vermont and Oregon. I think there’s an entrepreneurial spirit here.’

Now start your trip into the mountains with a 1-hour drive north on Route 36 to Estes Park – the gateway town for Rocky Mountain National Park.

Essentials

Heirloom beetroot, escarole lettuce, crumbled gorgonzola and walnuts at Bramble & Hare. RIGHT The Dushanbe Teahouse’s ornate interior

Near Boulder’s mountainous western edge, with views of the Flatirons, the St Julien Hotel is impeccably urban, but with a Rockies touch in its elegant dark-wood furnishings, modern fourposter beds, stone-clad bathrooms and prints of mountain scenes (from US$234; stjulien.com).

A three-course menu at Bramble & Hare costs £19 (brambleandhare.com). The new Avery brewery has free tours daily (averybrewing.com).

For more trip ideas, see bouldercoloradousa.com.

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2. Rocky Mountain National Park Mark the centennial of this national park by strapping on some snowshoes – one of many ways to discover its classic Rockies scenery

T

HE SNOW HAS JUST stopped falling in Rocky Mountain National Park, and ranger Don Stewart is preparing a small party of visitors to set off on a snowshoe hike.

‘We have seasons on steroids here,’ he says, with an eager glance at the unblemished white blanket of five-foot-thick powder all around. ‘Winter is a really delightful

time to come to the park. It’s quieter, and beautiful with the fresh snow.’

Snowshoes may look more like impediments than aids to walking, but people have been using them in wintry environments for centuries, from the Native Americans with their distinct designs unique to each tribe, through to French fur trappers of the colonial period wearing what appeared to be tennis rackets, to the more

Snowshoers follow park ranger Don Stewart on a hike above Bear Lake in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park MAY/JUNE 2016

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AMERICAN ROCKIES Roosevelt National Forest borders Rocky Mountain National Park to the east, and is named after the famously outdoors-loving US president Theodore Roosevelt

flexible models of today. These help to open a side of the park not normally seen by summer visitors. ‘One of the fun things about snowshoeing is you can bushwhack, go off trail, without causing damage to vegetation,’ says Don. He begins by leading his snowshoe party across the safely frozen Bear Lake and then uphill on a circular hike of a little over a mile, past the equally snow-disguised Nymph Lake. Cheeks redden: snowshoeing raises the heart rate more than a regular trek, and even accustomed hikers can find themselves taking deeper breaths when they’re almost 3,000 metres up. Yet for all that, snowshoeing is a liberating mode of transport, leading to moments of quiet magic in the deep forest: a clearing where a Steller’s jay darts across in a flash of blue, or a boulder with a pillow of snow atop it, standing over a spring that flows freely even in the midst of winter.

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Don stops to describe the three strategies all the park’s inhabitants must choose between when winter comes: hibernate, migrate or tolerate. While the yellow-bellied marmot sleeps under the snow, lowering its heart rate to five beats a minute, many of the bigger four-footed creatures, including moose, choose to move on. The park’s two-dozen mountain lions follow. ‘It’s not that a lion couldn’t make it up here: it’s got big paws,’ says Don. ‘But where’s the food?’

The great tolerator of winter is the snowshoe hare, whose outsize hind feet are as useful in deep powder as the name suggests. Bobcats, with smaller stomachs to fill than the mountain lions, stick around.

Humans display the rarest behaviour of all animal species: sometimes they choose to migrate towards snow. While Rocky Mountain National Park naturally lacks the ski lifts and groomed pistes seen elsewhere in Colorado, park rangers lead cross-country

skiing excursions along with the snowshoe hikes. Winter’s arrival also means that mountaineers in the park have a new focus for their attentions: ice climbing on frozen waterfalls. One of the most popular locations, Hidden Falls in the otherwise little-visited southeast corner of the park, is an unremarkable trickle in summer, left off most maps; in winter it is transformed into an ice wall some eight storeys high, usually with a climber or two affixed to it by means of ice picks, crampons and rope.

Rocky Mountain National Park covers just a tiny fraction of a range that stretches for more than 2,000 miles, north into Canada and south as far as New Mexico. And yet Colorado is a fair location for a namesake preserve: it’s the only US state to lie entirely above 1,000 metres, and is also home to the 30 highest peaks in the whole mountain chain. The national park has existed since 1915, but even before then sightseers and

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Return to Denver Airport by way of Highway 36, Interstate 25 and the E-470 toll road (1½ hours by car) to catch a flight north to Jackson Hole in the neighbouring state of Wyoming.

Essentials

The Stanley Hotel has a graceful portico and white clapboard fronting outside, and heavy antique furnishings inside. In 1974, Stephen King and his wife spent a night in off-season as the sole guests, and the novelist used it as the basis for the hotel in The Shining.

The adjoining Lodge section has a lighter but equally vintage ambience. The hotel bar is stocked with some 900 whiskeys (main building from US$225; stanleyhotel.com).

A seven-day car permit for Rocky Mountain National Park costs US$19 (nps.gov/romo).

Ranger-led hikes are free, though you’ll need to bring your own snowshoes; find rental details at visitestespark.com. Horse rides from Sombrero Ranch start at US$36 for an hour (sombrero. com). Ice-climbing excursions for beginners start at US$190 for a half day (guide. climbinglife.com).

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adventurers would follow the twisting roads through the mountains to reach Estes Park – the town that now serves as the park’s gateway. Some drove up in ‘Stanley steamers’, an early brand of steam-powered automobile founded by twin brothers from Maine. One of these veteran cars is on show in the old-world lobby of the Stanley Hotel, a sprawling, New England-style retreat on a hillside overlooking Estes Park, built by one of the Stanley brothers in 1909.

The steamers are retired now, but a traditional Rockies experience is still easily had on horseback. From Sombrero Ranch on the eastern edge of town, guides lead a riding party out onto the forested slopes of the Roosevelt National Forest. The snow cover here today is thin enough to be manageable for the horses, as they file along a trail through the widely spaced trees: lodgepole pines, ponderosa pines with their blush-red bark, spruce, fir and aspen – the last has a powder on its bark that protects the tree against the sun, and was once used

by Native Americans for the same purpose.

Apart from the aspen, all the mountain trees are conifers. Of Don’s three winter survival choices, migration is obviously not an option for them. While the aspen hibernates of a fashion, the conifers keep their needles in winter and tolerate the varying loads of snow that weigh upon their boughs. As Don put it: ‘Conifers have a good strategy for life – bend but don’t break.’

Snowshoes at Bear Lake.

RIGHT Park ranger Don Stewart. FAR RIGHT An iceclimber nears the top of the frozen Hidden Falls

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3. Jackson Hole and the Tetons The Old West lives on in the mountain valleys of Wyoming, where elk herds and hardy homesteaders cross paths under the dazzling peaks

E

VEN BEFORE LANDING, there are clues on the flight into Jackson Hole that the destination is an unusual one: many of the passengers are half-dressed in ski clothes, seemingly determined to waste no time in hitting the slopes of this Wyoming mountain resort.

On arrival, they are treated to one of the world’s great airport views: the jagged, snow-dusted spires of the Teton Range.

The airport is a rarity in that it lies inside the boundaries of a national park. Since it was set up in 1929, Grand Teton National Park has grown to cover some 480 square miles of mountains, plains and lakes on

the edge of America’s least populous state.

Jackson Hole accounts for the flat part of the park, ‘hole’ being a settler term for a valley ringed by high mountains, while the Tetons provide the saw-toothed mountain backdrop. Crowning it all is the 4,197-metre peak of Grand Teton. The name ‘Teton’ might be derived from a Lakota Sioux word, but the more popular explanation is that French Canadian fur trappers called the three most prominent summits ‘Les Trois Tétons’ – the three breasts. The resemblance is not strong; perhaps the travellers had been starved of female company for some time.

Many of the park’s roads close in winter, but one exception is Highway 26. The road

A modern-day saloon on the main square in Jackson.

ABOVE The John Moulton Homestead on Mormon Row, with the Teton Range behind it

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and the Teton Range run in parallel, so it’s a good idea to do the sightseeing drive in both directions, if only to even out the crick in your neck. The view is what the inhabitants of Mormon Row would have woken up to every morning. This scattering of farmsteads from the 1890s, now deserted, includes a building dubbed ‘the most photographed barn in America’. At this time of year, however, with the access road snowed over, this truly feels like a pioneer community.

From the closest driveable point along Antelope Flats Road, it’s a 20-minute walk across a white plain to these weathered barns and cottages: an exercise that would be a lot harder today if the snow wasn’t so

AMERICAN ROCKIES silhouette of cart, horses and humans.

Driving the cart today is Justin Jackson, of Jackson Hole, who sports a waxed, curltipped moustache that gets frost-covered on particularly wintry days. He calls to the horses: ‘Ginger, Bruno, step up!’

Justin steers the wagon across a small bridge over a stream, watched by four bald eagles in a nearby tree, and to the outskirts of the thousand-strong elk herd. Some of the males engage in desultory sparring, antlers clacking together. ‘A few weeks ago, I saw a large bull swishing his antlers back and forth to flick water on his back,’ says Justin. ‘It was very cool – the first time I’d ever seen that. They’re normally creatures of habit.’

At the end of winter, the elk shed their antlers. The refuge managers collect them to sell at auction in May; a particularly fine set can fetch up to US$30 a pound. Thus, the elk help support themselves financially.

And in Jackson, at each corner of the central

town square stands an arch, made of 2,000 antlers woven together. The elk may no longer graze here, but their presence is still felt.

The road beyond Flagg Ranch, at the northern end of Grand Teton National Park, is closed to regular traffic: join a snowcoach tour to continue onwards into the heart of Yellowstone (details on p51).

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compacted. The Mormons who settled here liked to group together, unlike the doggedly independent ranchers elsewhere in the valley. Even so, it must have been a harsh existence. Back on the highway, the road surface shimmers with the surrounding white expanse in a winter mirage.

Only 12 miles to the south, some quirk of geography has kept the plain free of snow. Generations of elk have migrated here each winter. They used to go further, but the town of Jackson now stands in their way. Back in 1912, the townspeople were worried the elk would no longer be able to survive, and established the National Elk Refuge. Today it covers nearly 25,000 acres, and provides space for a few thousand wintering elk.

The refuge’s caretakers lead visitors out on horse-drawn sleigh trips, or when there is no snow cover, by cart: lone standing figures would spook the herd, but they don’t really know what to make of the combined

Essentials

Wintering elk in the National Elk Refuge, north of Jackson.

LEFT Justin Jackson leads horse-drawn wagon or sleigh rides into the elk refuge

At The Rusty Parrot in Jackson, paintings of frontier scenes line the landing above a tea and coffee lounge where squashy armchairs face a log fire. Guestrooms also have individual fireplaces.

A hot tub stands on the raised deck outside, and the restaurant does elegant takes on American breakfast classics (from US$255; rustyparrot.com).

A seven-day car permit for Grand Teton National Park costs US$30, although there are no ticket booths along the park’s portion of Highway 26 (nps.gov/grte). Sleight rides at the elk refuge cost US$19pp (fws.gov/refuge/ national_elk_refuge). Read up on the area at jacksonholechamber.com.

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4.Yellowstone The world’s first national park is astounding enough to see in summer, but winter visitors can experience its vast, steaming landscapes in near solitude

P

ERHAPS NOWHERE IN the Rockies is the contrast between summer and winter so stark as it is in Yellowstone National Park. It’s not just a matter of numbers – more than 750,000 visitors in July, fewer than 30,000 in January.

When a place that exists on the edge of boiling point comes under the blanket of winter, the stage is set for an epic contest of fire and ice. This huge volcanic caldera is the most geothermally active place on Earth, and, in low temperatures, the steam clouds sent up by its searing hot pools and geysers are even more impressive.

‘Nobody knows exactly why the geysers behave the way they do,’ says park ranger Annie Carlson, one of the staff at the visitor centre by Old Faithful: the most famous geyser of them all. It usually erupts at 90minute intervals, give or take 10. ‘We predict eruption times for five geysers in the winter and six in summer,’ says Annie, a native of Wisconsin, who has now spent four seasons

in the park. ‘In winter we rely on people watching webcams. It’s neat, because people watch from around the world.’ She breaks off momentarily to switch on the PA system, and announce that Beehive Geyser – one of the less predictable ones – is putting on a show. Outside the tall windows, on the far side of the Firehole River, a slender jet of water reaches 50 metres into the air.

‘For some geysers it can be a few years in between eruptions,’ Annie says. ‘I got to see Giantess erupt. You know you have geyser fever when you go running out to watch.’

Old Faithful is neither the tallest geyser in the park, nor the most punctual, but instead a compromise between the two. At sunset, some 20 people brave the chill to stand in wait at the viewing area around the geyser – a space that can see a thousand or more spectators for an eruption in peak summer season. A dozen bison graze in the defrosted meadow by the river beyond. The geyserwatchers squint at the modest clouds of steam that drift from Old Faithful in its

Pendant Spring, on Geyser Hill, gets its orange fringe from heat-sensitive cyanobacteria.

RIGHT Annie Carlson is one of the few park staff to stay on for the winter season

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resting state, and try to convince themselves that every larger-than-usual billow is a sign of imminent action. The predicted eruption time passes, and in the gathering dusk, all but six of the viewers decide to head back to the warmth of the nearby lodge. Six minutes after the end of its grace period, Old Faithful proves its worth in a scalding white fountain that dwarfs everything around. Coincidence or not, as the plume subsides, a twilight chorus of yowls from coyotes starts up, echoing from the surrounding hills.

Annie had said that the geyser basin in the morning was the most otherworldly place she had ever been, and the following day her observation is borne out. On Geyser Hill at first light, the boardwalk that keeps people off the fragile crust becomes a path into an ethereal realm. The sun filters capriciously through the steam clouds, while ice crystals flash through the air. Vapours rise from the hot pools and are instantly chilled, the water molecules clinging madly to the nearest surface to form rime frost. Where the

AMERICAN ROCKIES

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Old Faithful’s jet of water averages 40 metres in height, but the steam cloud above that’s visible in winter is many times taller, seen here from the path between Anemone and Beehive geysers

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The Firehole River is warmed by runoffs from geysers and other springs, and never freezes in winter – it’s also a famous fly-fishing river 50

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boardwalk passes a particularly steamy feature, it bears a coating of white fur. Stand there a while and you wonder if you’re frosting up too. With few people around, you get to hear more of the sounds: not just the broiling springs, but the cracking of the ice that covers the geyser runoffs. If visitors in centuries past thought Yellowstone was an infernal, sulphur-smelling place, today it looks like the most heavenly kind of hell.

Life in the park is always a fine balance.

The orange runoffs from many of the hot pools are home to a species of fly. It skims the surface, defying death by boiling below and by freezing above. The bison herds are healthy now, after facing extinction at the end of the 19th century, and since the 1990s, Yellowstone has led a project to reintroduce wolves to the American Rockies. Much of the forest burned in 1988; it was called a calamity at the time, but new life has sprung up with vigour, green amid the ashen grey.

The park’s geothermal features have their life cycles too. In the West Thumb Basin, on the frozen shores of Yellowstone Lake, Black Pool has turned a brilliant blue since it was named. Once-powerful geysers are now recalled only in books, but new wonders may spring up at any time. In Yellowstone, change is truly the only constant.

Essentials

The Old Faithful Snow Lodge is one of two park lodges that open in winter (December to February), and is less than five minutes’ walk from Old Faithful. The lodge is relatively modern, with Western-style timber accents (lodge rooms from US$233, cabins from US$95; yellowstonenationalparklodges.com).

Yellowstone National Park has limited access in winter (nps.gov/yell). Snowcoach shuttles serve the park from Jackson (US$314 return; scenic-safaris.com). A variety of tours visit different corners of the park (wildlife tour US$45pp; yellowstonenationalparklodges.com).

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Cobbled Via dei Cappellari in the district of Parione. RIGHT Flavio, owner of Flavio Al Velavevodetto, carries two local pasta dishes from his kitchen An 18th-century sacred fresco outside the Church of Sant’Egidio.

RIGHT A cat poses outside an antiques shop in Trastevere. OPPOSITE an artfully positioned Vespa

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Locals’ Rome

The people who know the Eternal City best reveal the places they love – including hidden bars and market stalls, vintage fashion and furniture stores, and a former power station given new life as a gallery filled with classical artefacts WORDS GABRIELLE JAFFE

@gjaffe O PHOTOGRAPHS SUSAN WRIGHT

@sw_photo

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‘GOING TO A MARKET CAN TELL YOU AS MUCH ABOUT ROME AS A VISIT TO ST PETER’S’ The day off

ELIZABETH MINCHILLI FOOD BLOGGER

The day job Elizabeth Minchilli has an enduring love affair with Italian cuisine. She’s lived in Rome on and off since she was 12, and permanently since 1988, after meeting her husband Domenico. Having authored six books as well as the Eat Italy app, she continues to share her encyclopaedic knowledge of Italian cuisine through her blog, and for the last five years has also run private food tours. On these day-long culinary ambles through Roman neighbourhoods, she stops at market stalls, delis and artisanal producers, revealing where to sample creamy mozzarella, sausages flavoured with truffles, the city’s best pizza bianca and other secrets.

‘I love what I do because it gives me a chance to show people my city in a way that’s not so obvious,’ she says. ‘Going to a market or behind the scenes at a butcher can tell you as much about Rome as a visit to St Peter’s.

What people are eating, how they are eating it and why can give you insights into such diverse topics as history, economics, cultural and social norms, religion and family structure.

‘Pick up a vegetable in a market,’ says Elizabeth, ‘and all of sudden you are surrounded by different people telling you about how you should cook it. Listen carefully and you come away with not just a recipe, but an insight into a way of life that you might otherwise have missed.’

O elizabethminchilliinrome.com

In southern Rome rises Monte Testaccio, a hill that in ancient times was a dumping ground for amphorae: clay vessels used to transport oil and wine. Centuries later, the liquids are still a dining-table fixture in this working-class district, a stronghold of traditional Roman cooking. Built into the mound itself, restaurant Flavio al Velavevodetto has a glass wall to show the stacked terracotta fragments. ‘It’s special to have a meal in this historic setting, but primarily I come for the food,’ says Elizabeth. ‘Flavio, the owner, has taken humble Roman cuisine – simple meats and seasonal vegetables – and elevated it. He’s meticulous about his ingredients.’ Her favourite dish is the tender lamb chops, with their crispy breadcrumb crust. It is made inside Flavio’s hellishly hot kitchen, where half a dozen chefs toss pasta and stir enormous pots. In the adjacent dining room businessmen loosen their belts to tuck into steaming bowls of pasta; the rich, oaky smell of pecorino wafting invitingly.

Nearby is another favourite, covered Testaccio Market, where sunshine leaks in through skylights.

Here, a stall is loaded with still-warm flatbreads the size of a small child, while across the aisle peaches spill from their crates. ‘This is still very much a neighbourhood market,’ she says. ‘You see women in house dresses, filling carts with vegetables, and nonnas with their grandchildren.’ Elizabeth says the city’s traditionalism has been part of its appeal. ‘For years, Rome was charmingly stagnant,’ she explains.

‘But now people are trying new things.’ She cites the recently-opened stall Mordi & Vai, where butcher Sergio Esposito uses 40 years of experience to select choice cuts for his braised beef paninis. ‘He’s turning restaurant dishes into affordable sandwiches.’

Some places are worth going to precisely because they’ve stayed the same. Sora Margherita, in the Jewish Ghetto, began as a no-frills workers’ canteen and still serves up traditional dishes, such as meatballs in tomato sauce, without fanfare. A braided red curtain masks the entrance, and today’s menu is scrawled on brown paper in felt-tip. Still, by noon, customers are elbow-to-elbow, ordering the house special: carciofo alla giudia, deep-fried artichokes that look like golden flowers. ‘There were lots of places like this in the ’70s but almost all turned into something fancier,’ says Elizabeth, who makes reservations here in the morning, in person, so she can watch the pasta being made from scratch, as it has been for years. When the food’s this good, there’s no need to change.

O ristorantevelavevodetto.it; Via di Monte Testaccio 97;

mains from US$11.50 O mordievai.com; Mercato Testaccio, Via B Franklin 12/E;

paninis from US$4.30 O soramargherita.com; Via del Forno 11; mains from US$13

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Meatballs in tomato sauce at Sora Margherita.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Peppers at Testaccio Market; carciofo alla giudia

The dining room at Flavio al Velavevodetto; terracotta fragments can be seen through the glass arches

Tagliatelle being made at Sora Margherita. RIGHT Lucia peeps out from the entrance to her restaurant Sora Margherita

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‘ROME IS A LASAGNA, WITH EACH ERA OF THE CITY LAID ON TOP OF THE LAST’ The day off

ELISA VALERIA BOVE ARCHAEOLOGIST AND GUIDE

The day job Among the Forum’s chaos of ruins, a rose garden is watched over by a row of mostly-headless female statues. ‘This was the House of the Vestal Virgins: priestesses whose task was to keep a sacred flame permanently alight,’ explains Elisa Valeria Bove, an archaeologist and guide. ‘I’m not sure there were many virgins in the city at that time, though,’ she jokes. ‘Do you know where the word fornication comes from? Fornix means arch in Latin – that’s where the ancient Romans would get it on.’

It’s one of the more light-hearted insights Elisa has gleaned during her 13 years in the city: time spent studying archaeology to PhD level, and taking part in numerous digs (including at the Forum). She now shares her knowledge through her tour company Never Ending Rome, helping visitors gain a deeper understanding of the classic sights for which the city is justly famed. A typical day with Elisa is peppered with anecdotes, such as the fact that gladiators, far from being chiselled Russell Crowe lookalikes, were actually shaped like sumo wrestlers, as more fat offered better protection against the blow of the sword.

‘Rome is a lasagna, with each era of the city laid on top of the last,’ says Elisa. ‘Seeing it through an archaeologist’s eyes can help you peel back the layers.’

O neverendingrome.com; private tours from US$165 for three hours, for up to 10 people

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One site that keeps drawing Elisa back, even in her downtime, is the second-century Villa dei Quintilii.

On weekends she’ll cycle along the Appian Way to this mansion, which was once so grand it inspired a covetous emperor to kill its owners. Today, all that remains is a red-brick skeleton, sprawled over a garden full of droning cicadas and pomegranate trees. Look closer, though, and intricate marble floors hint at past palatial elegance, as do the statues in the villa’s museum, including a forlorn-looking, nose-less Zeus. ‘Every time I come here, I think “how is it possible that there are so few people?”,’ says Elisa. ‘Often the only visitors are archaeologists at work.

‘In Rome, we’re always continuing to excavate.

Even if you’ve been somewhere before, come back five years later and there will be new things to explore.’ As more of the city is unearthed, some museums are running out of space to display their ever-extending collections. Elisa loves to visit Centrale Montemartini Museum, a former power plant in an otherwise unremarkable neighbourhood of high-rises, which is now used to exhibit the overspill of the Capitoline Museums. ‘The mix of modern and ancient is incredible. It is so unexpected to enter a generating station and find this classical world.’

In this industrial setting, hunting scenes play out on well-preserved mosaics; Venus is juxtaposed against a compression pump, while a delicate frieze is displayed opposite a cabinet of wrenches.

In the atrium-like main hall stands the colossal arm of a statue that would have measured eight metres in its entirety: the hand alone big enough for a fully-grown adult to lie across. Unlike the always-busy Capitoline Museums, from which it draws its treasures, this gallery is so quiet that often the only sound a visitor will hear is the gentle hum of the air conditioning.

Across town is another peaceful spot where Elisa likes to spend her days off: Via Margutta. Despite being one of the locations where Roman Holiday was filmed and where La Dolce Vita director Federico Fellini lived, this narrow, ivy-clad street draws few tourists. On warm evenings, well-heeled women and well-coiffed men amble by on bicycle or foot, stopping to chat with the boutique and antique shop owners standing in their doorways.

Midway up the street a grimacing stone fountain softly gurgles. ‘It’s just behind the Spanish Steps, one of the world’s most touristy places,’ says Elisa.

‘But this is a place to get away from the crush.’

O archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en/archaeological-site/ villa-quintilii; entry US$6.50 O centralemontemartini.org; Via Ostiense 106; entry US$7.90

Ancient statues at home in their industrial surroundings at the Centrale Montemartini Museum

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The red-brick ruins of Villa dei Quintilii. ABOVE Via Margutta, once home to craft workshops and stables, now hosts art galleries and antique shops

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‘IT’S PLACES LIKE THIS HOLE-IN-THE-WALL SHOP THAT MAKE ROME SO EXCITING’ The day off

MASSIMO INNOCENTI RESTAURATEUR AND SPEAKEASY OWNER

The day job In Pigneto, Rome’s slowly-gentrifying eastern district, street art crowds the walls – a superhero’s head here, a mural of a giant beetle there – and bars are concealed in unexpected places. In an innocuous-looking panini shop, neon letters spell out ‘prime meat’ above what looks like a fridge door. Beyond this, and an additional ruse of hanging cured hams, hides Spirito: a sprawling speakeasy owned by Massimo Innocenti. Among scarlet leather booths and a roulette table that doubles as the bar, Spirito serves inventive cocktails – including the ‘Bloody Maryachi’, a tequila spin on a Bloody Mary – plus special panini, such as black-squid-ink rolls.

‘When I came to Pigneto in 2001, it was a frontier. The only bars were smoke-stained places where old people played cards,’ says Massimo. He moved to the neighbourhood because, after spending time in London, Paris and Berlin, he wanted to continue living somewhere with an international feel. ‘Now it’s the kind of place where you see artists, students and filmmakers, alongside Senegalese immigrants in their traditional dress.’

Spirito and the panineria opened in summer 2014 just across the road from Necci, the restaurant which Massimo took over some years earlier, turning it into a stylish hangout for Pigneto creatives. ‘I only have one rule,’ says Massimo, ‘to create places where I can have fun myself.’

O club-spirito.com; cocktails from US$8.60

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Massimo’s Pigneto watering hole of choice is Co.So, a bar that, with its cocktail-shaker door handles, grabs drinkers’ attention even before they’ve stepped across the threshold. Inside, jars of house-crafted cinnamon syrup and cacao bitters line the counter. A bartender strains a liquorice mojito into in a metal flowerpot and garnishes it with copious mint sprigs, so it looks like it’s growing out of the container. ‘The cocktails are great but more important is the atmosphere,’ says Massimo. ‘I hate bars where no-one is comfortable enough to chat.’

Co.So’s décor is determinedly playful. Among the Pop-Art-inspired furniture – which is available for customers to buy – is a hot-red chair shaped like a naked, kneeling figure. On one wall a Godzilla figurine climbs a two-litre vodka bottle; opposite, a one-way window conceals a secret room, accessed through a faux-shower in the bar’s toilets.

Like many Pigneto residents, Massimo finds it hard to tear himself away from the district. One place he considers worth venturing out for is Retro, a diminutive interiors store in one of Rome’s barely-big-enough-to-park-a-car squares. Inside, curvaceous ’50s armchairs by design giants from Eames to Ercol sit alongside period Italian glassware and bakelite jewellery. ‘I get a lot of design inspiration here,’ says Massimo. ‘And they’re such nice people, they have time for you even if you’re not buying anything.’

Mostly when Massimo strays from Pigneto you’ll find him in Zia Rosetta, a stylised hole-in-the-wall in Monti that gets its name from a typically Roman, rose-shaped bun. Here, this bread has become Italy’s answer to the hamburger or slider. Every filling is inspired by a different rose hybrid, such as the ‘Peggy Rockfeller’ (crudo ham, crisped parmesan and grilled aubergine). Dressed head-totoe in black and with a handlebar moustache, chef-owner Alessandro has a rugged look that is in contrast to his food. Equally eclectic are the clientele: two tanned, elegant women sit on silver high stools, sipping drinks and picking at salads in recycled cardboard boxes, while a bearded, tattooed twenty-something eats his mini slider standing leaning in the doorway. ‘It’s little places like this that makes Rome exciting,’ says Massimo.

‘I love that you can have this really intense taste experience without having a formal meal. What’s the point in always being so serious?’

O Co.So, Via Braccio da Montone 80; cocktails from US$10.70 O retrodesign.it; Piazza del Fico 20/21 O ziarosetta.com; Via Urbana 54; rosetta sliders from US$2.15

The rose-themed sliders that give Zia Rosetta its name. LEFT Tiny Zia Rosetta can seat no more than eight diners

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Vintage treasures at Retro.

RIGHT, FROM TOP Lunchtime delivery of Zia Rosetta’s famous buns; a liquorice mojito at Co.So

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‘ROME’S TYPICAL SOUNDTRACK OF RUMBLING VESPAS AND CHURCH BELLS IS INTERRUPTED BY THE SOUND OF 1960S ROCK’ The day off

FEDERICA MONCIOTTI BOUTIQUE MANAGER

The day job Via del Boschetto, in Rome’s fashionable Monti district, is a street where the pedestrian pace is always slower than the city average. For some it’s due to the challenge of navigating stilettos over the cobbles, but mostly people are detained by the myriad shop windows: filled with striped bowties, bold flower-print kimonos, bell-jar lampshades and other alluring goods.

Halfway along Boschetto, boutique Sufir is a rainbow of bright dresses, rich leather handbags and Dior-style double-sided earrings. Equally colourful in her brogues and Fanta-orange jacket is the shop’s husky-voiced manager, Federica Monciotti. Her enjoyment is palpable as she assists customers who are trying things on. ‘Bella questa!’ (‘That’s beautiful!’), she exclaims frequently, making minor adjustments to help show the wearer to their best advantage.

‘People come to Monti because they’re looking for unique pieces, not mass-market items,’ says Federica. ‘Milan might be Italy’s fashion capital but in Rome, we’re confident to try out our own style.’

‘I love selling good quality things,’ she says, indicating the superiority of the fabric from which all Sufir’s clothes are made, with materials sourced from Lake Como and Prado. ‘For me fashion isn’t just about clothes – it’s in everything. Good design and careful attention to aesthetic details are part of an Italian way of life.’

O Sufir, Via del Boschetto, 96

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For sartorial inspiration, Federica visits Via del Governo Vecchio, a street of vintage shops. She’s particularly drawn to Cinzia, a store that’s heard before it’s seen. Approaching it, Rome’s typical soundtrack of rumbling Vespas and church bells is interrupted by the synthesised sound of ’60s band Question Mark & the Mysterians. Inside, ’50s rockabilly skirts hang next to a knitted ’60s mini-dress and a Chanel blouse from the ’80s, all carefully selected by Cinzia herself, a former costume designer. ‘It’s a fantasy just to see this place,’ raves Federica, ‘Their pieces would have been special even in their own time.’

Federica’s taste for vintage extends to her favourite bar, too: Suburra, a ’30s-themed joint in Monti that’s owned by a cinema producer. Props – including a gramophone, a typewriter and a pair of moose horns guarding the toilet mirrors – set the tone. Fringed by glass, the counter looks like a giant chandelier. Behind it, waistcoated bartenders pour amber-coloured gin and red vermouth martinez and other classic cocktails into etched martini glasses. Beside the carefully arranged pyramid of bottles is an open window, through which drinks are served straight out onto the street-side terrace. In summer months, films are screened here, al fresco. ‘It’s so good I’ll even come by myself sometimes,’ Federica admits.

Another regular fixture of her evenings is a post-dinner visit to Il Gelato di San Crispino, an ice creamery that specialises in natural, quality ingredients gathered all over Italy. As a child, Federica frequented the Trevi branch but reckons the one by the Pantheon, with its Art Deco glass ceiling, is the most stylish. ‘You can feel it’s made by a designer,’ she says. ‘It’s so elegant.’ Most customers, however, seem too focused on choosing a flavour to notice the décor. Faces pressed up to the glass countertop, they agonise between the Piedmontese hazelnut, Amalfi lemon and Sardinian honey flavours. In Rome, style is important, but food always comes first.

O Cinzia, Via del Governo Vecchio 45 O Suburra1930.it; Piazza della Suburra 13–15; cocktails

from US$8.60 O ilgelatodisancrispino.com; Piazza della Maddalena; ice

cream US$2.90

The semicircular counter at Il Gelato di San Crispino.

BELOW Two scoops of strawberry and blackberry ice cream

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Cinzia is an Aladdin’s cave of secondhand clothes, shoes and accessories

A bartender shows off his skills at Suburra.

ABOVE Original ’70s platforms for sale at Cinzia

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VICTORIA

Take the High Road Culinary surprises abound in the rich grounds of High Country in Victoria, where talented chefs, winemakers and artisanal producers work their magic WORDS ESTHER FAITH LIEW O PHOTOGRAPHS ESTHER FAITH LIEW

H

overing in the horizon over the quiet town, Mount Buffalo stands shrouded in the misty fog of the evening. A quick pivot around showed glimpses of the alpine outlines of Mount Feathertop and Mount Bogong. Bright sits snug amidst the grandeur of this splendid alpine scenery.

It was 8pm, and I was famished.

Invigorated by the fresh alpine air, I have worked up an appetite en route to Bright, a quiet and unassuming town in north-eastern Victoria.

Bright is close to the Victorian Alps, and has several national parks that offer big adventure experiences for those who wander into their midst.

Mount Buffalo National Park is one of them; cycling enthusiasts have headed into its domain for spectacular scenic trails.

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Brown Brothers has a restaurant and experimental winery that produces small batch wines exclusive to the cellar door

Homely and intimate dining within a Victorian country house. RIGHT Simone’s Kitchen’s lovely host Patrizia Simone. FAR RIGHT Bright Chocolate’s artisinal and single origin varieties

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Italian Comfort Another big surprise that Bright serves up lies in Simone’s Kitchen, and that was exactly where I was – 98 Gavan Street, a quiet residential street with none of the hustle and bustle that one would expect when arriving at a renowned culinary institution. I followed my guide up some steps leading to a charming Victorian country house. A restaurant manager welcomed us and we were ushered into a living room decorated with small dining tables. I was seated in a smaller room with just one large table that seats eight to 10. The interior was – no doubt – not much of a talking point other than the fact that it was homely. That was what made it even more special; it was a rustic dining experience at its finest without the pomp and pizazz, made complete by Patrizia Simone’s presence. Patrizia started the restaurant with her husband in 1986, and gained fame as a family-run restaurant that serves up fine Italian specialities. Her son Anthony now runs the kitchen and carries on the tradition with a creative touch.

We were treated to an eight-course degustation menu with wine pairing.

Seasonal local produce such as trout, salmon, olives, berries and varieties of nuts were showcased as well as regional produce such as Milawa duck and red stag. The Harrietville trout paired with crispy winter leaves was a toothsome start to the meal and a hint of what was to come – expect big notes and hearty flavours with generous portions.

Everything you would expect from a nonna who demands you eat well. The gnocchetti raviolono with gorgonzola, black truffle and crispy pancetta offered divine spoonfuls of rich, creamy goodness, while the cured and confit Milawa duck with smoked eel, eggplant caponata, arancini and stinging nettle struck a balance with the heavy and smoky taste of the meats with the smooth eggplant and crispy arancini. The desserts offered a perfect end to our dinner with a sublime Mt Chocolato with roasted feijoa, quince crumble, port ganache and honey shard – a symphony of sweet and fruity notes with great textures that engaged the palate.

Sweet Surprises The next day, we visited another signature instituition – Bright Chocolate, a producer of fine artisanal single-origin chocolate. Handmade with love from the cosy premises of its factory and store at 8/3 Riverside Avenue, Timo Paternotte

from Bright Chocolate shared his passion with us as he demonstrated the skill of refining, conching and tempering to produce chocolate that is fine, smooth and velvety.

Browsing at his store is a pleasure, with colourful displays of tantalising cacao beans, nibs, pod eggs, hot chocolate spoons and freckle lollypops that appeal to the eye.

From chocolates we turned our attention to wine at Feathertop, a venue that houses a cellar door, a restaurant and deli, a spa and luxury accommodations – all overlooking Mount Buffao and the sprawling slopes of the vineyard. Showcasing produce from the Alpine Valley, a seasonal a la carte menu of Murray cod or Mount Beauty eye fillet can be enjoyed with a wine tasting session while seated on the lawn terrace. Or a therapeutic spa session and massage can be enjoyed as well to complete your sensory indulgence. The spa also offers treatment packages that tie in with a gourmet or cycling programme.

A stay at Feathertop is most certainly recommended – with a choice of a stylish two-bedroom apartment with a modern designer kitchen, and a large verandah facing Mount Buffalo; or a one-bedroom suite with a kitchenette, a spacious balcony and an outdoor bath.

BLAZE THE TRAIL Bright and Surrounds is a playground for the adventurous, and offers something for cycling enthusiasts of all levels. The ultimate challenge lies in Mount Beauty’s Big Hill Mountain Bike Park, which hosts the annual National Mountain Bike Championships. For a leisurely ride that allows you to take in the sights, the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail is ideal. It is a 100km ride on a track that runs from Wangaratta to Bright, with distractions such as wineries and farm gates to warrant a rest.

O To hire a bike and to find out more about cycling trails, contact CyclePath Australia (www.cyclepath.com.au).

MUST-VISIT SPOTS En route to Bright, there are a few essential stops you cannot miss if you love your wine and cheese. Fowles Wine is a 90-minute drive from Melbourne CBD, located on 1175, Lambing Gully Road. Rated a five-star winery

by James Halliday, Fowles Wine gained recognition for wines that were created to complement wild game, and is highly popular with fans who enjoy its Are you Game? label, including the unique Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch range. A tasting session with a platter of four types of meat will allow you to appreciate the nuances of each taste. Advance booking is required (www.fowleswine.com).

A name that would be familiar to most, Brown Brothers is a 126-yearold family-run business that adopts innovative wine-making methods and experiments with grape varietals. Currently showcasing over 60 different wines, Brown Brothers has a cellar door, a restaurant and an experimental winery that produces small batch wines exclusive to the cellar door, located at 244 Milawa-Bobinawarrah Road.

It was a memorable experience made special by Katherine Brown, who hosted us to a lovely lunch at Patricia’s Table restaurant and shared with us on the family’s vision and tradition. The dishes served up by head chef Douglas Elder were superb as well; the grilled green asparagus, picked oyster mushroom, black truffle croquette and egg yolk was fresh and bursting with the seasonal flavours, paired with a 2014 chardonnay. For mains, try the duck breast, confit leg, sweet and sour peppers, smoked cauliflower puree and walnuts, paired with a 2013 merlot (brownbrothers.com.au).

To round off the Milawa gourmet trail, head to Milawa Cheese Company at 17 Factory Road, to sample an award-winning flight of cheeses. This family-run business produce winners that are lovingly handmade with non-animal rennet and are preservative free. Try the King River Gold, which is soft and has a rich nutty, almost smoky flavour. The Milawa Blue is a great introduction for beginners; it has a rich, buttery flavour considered mild for blue cheeses. Give the Markwood a try as well; it is a unique speciality cheese that is extremely limited and is matured for two years to produce a complex flavour that is safisfyingly buttery (milawacheese.com.au).

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VICTORIA Beechworth is a small historical town with an up-and-coming culinary scene

The Beechworth Bakery bear makes for a great souvenir.

LEFT Le Blanche Ice Creamery is an iconic pit stop in Bright

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Big in Beechworth Located 2 hours and 45 minutes from Melbourne by car, Beechworth is a historical town with a small culinary scene that is making a big statement. It is a small picturesque town that is worth exploring, especially the Historic and Cultural Precinct. Before you start on your tour though, head over to Beechworth Bakery on 27 Camp Street, an institution that is known for its Ned Kelly Pie, Beesting Cake, and more. The wait was worth it.

Both were sublime. The pie oozed with a rich beef flavour when I bit into it; the chunks of tender beef, gravy and runny egg all blended together perfectly for gratifying moreish bites. The beesting pie was also delish, oozing with rich creamy custard that teased without being overbearingly sweet. It exploded in my mouth with delicate sweetness and smoothness. It is impossible to stop until all the goodness was depleted.

With that insane taste of sweet and savoury heaven lingering on my palate, I headed over to Beechworth Honey, an iconic brand in Australia. The shop on 37 Ford Street showcases over 30 varieties of honey and a range of beauty and homeware products. Then head over to its restaurant, cellar door and garden at 87 Ford Street for a taste of wholesome bee-inspired dishes and sip on delicious honey mead. Education is part of the experience as well, and a stroll through the bee garden will yield an up close look at a working honeybee colony.

That night, we headed to two-chef’s-hat

Provenance Restaurant & Accommodation (theprovenance.com.au; 86 Ford Street) for a highly-anticipated dinner. Helmed by owner and chef Michael Ryan, Provenance serves dishes inspired by regional produce and chef Ryan’s travels to Asia, especially Japan, which is a strong influence in his food. A particular fondness of chef Ryan’s is to experiment with textures in his dishes and to highlight vegetables as more than just a garnish.

We had a delicate start to our meal with the house-made silken tofu with soused seafood, wasabi and ginger. It was a small bite that made a deep impression with its range of flavours to titillate the taste buds. On that note, we moved on to the spanner crab with nuka pickles, almond and shio koji milk, leeks and keel oil, a simple dish that impressed with its freshness and complex layers of Japanese-inspired ingredients. The fermented pickles added crunch to the springy texture of the crab and rounded up the flavours with a hint of sourness, uplifted by the enhanced umami and sweet notes, thanks to the shio koji.

Heavier dishes such as the smoked wallaby with grilled lettuce, yoghurt, preserved lemon and karkalla, and the duck breast with sweet and sour zucchini, braised eggplant, puffed grains and lomo were big hitters without being overwhelming, perfectly balanced by the contrasting textures and flavours. The degustation dinner ended with a lovely dessert of poached quinces, membrillo puree, green tea cream, chestnut jam and buckwheat, which was another example of a well-balanced dish that imparted

Beautiful red-brick houses abound in the small town of Beechworth

sweet but refreshing flavours.

With the variety of fabulous fruits and vegetables in the High Country, chef Ryan’s menu continues to delight his guests in the region as well as an increasing number of young Melburnians who appreciate his refined spin on seasonal Victorian produce mixed with Asian ingredients.

MUST-STAY While in Beechworth, we suggest you rest your head at Freeman on Ford located on 97 Ford Street. It is a bed and breakfast unlike any other. It was evident from the moment Heidi Freeman greeted us at the door. Her professional but warm demeanour and attentiveness to detail made me feel like I had stepped into a five-star luxury hotel cum elegant Victorian-styled home. Heidi was a delightful hotelier cum mistress of the house who made us feel welcome in the drawing room while she prepared some tea for us. Our luggage were attended to while we waited.

As I sat in the sumptuous room, I noticed the glittering chandelier, the ornate fireplace mantle and the intricate fresco wall painting of a floral pattern running parallel to the ceiling. This building was built in 1876 but its refurbished condition is stunning. Heida and her husband Jim Didolis, had remained true to the Victorian Italianate architecture, and had received heritage awards for their restoration efforts, which warrants the work to be labelled as “painstaking opulence”. No expenses were spared to re-create glamorous rooms reminiscent of 1930s luxury.

I was led to the ground floor Deluxe Crystal Suite, the largest at Freeman on Ford.

The baroque-style king-sized bed with pillow-top mattress and plush bedding looked inviting – and led to a night of deep slumber. The suite faced the pool and landscaped gardens of the property, accessed by huge French doors that led to a private terrace. It was a setting that promised an indulgent evening of bliss while sipping a bedtime drink – either in the cool of the terrace or by the warmth of the impressive fireplace facing the bed. The opulence continues in the en suite bathroom, which is clad in Cararra marble – from the jaccuzzi bathtub to the vanity countertop and the shower cubicle. And the set of amenities rivals that of any five-star hotel.

A night at Freeman on Ford has to be experienced if you appreciate tiny details, from the original hand-carved bed frame and furniture to the expensive and pretty sets of chinaware in the full kitchenette. Not forgetting Heidi’s passion and dedication to the true meaning of good old fashioned high-class hospitality.

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KING VALLEY’S ITALIAN TRADITIONS

Dal Zotto Wines was the first to plant prosecco vines in the King Valley

The first prosecco vines in Australia were planted

by Otto Dal Zotto in King Valley. Since 2000, Dal Zotto has spread the popularity of prosecco outside of his hometown Valdobbiadene, the birthplace of prosecco. The terroir nurtured a prosecco that is fresh and crisp, a complement to the flavours of Australian cuisine. Since then, the family-run Dal Zotto Wines (dalzotto.com.au; Main Road, Whitfield) has melded tradition with innovation to produce Italian varietals that are a hit, including sangiovese, shiraz and barbera.

The cellar door has a trattoria that serves traditional Italian dishes such as handmade pasta, antipasti and gnocchi dishes – all whipped by the family’s matriarch nonna Elena who is inspired by the regional produce and picks her ingredients from the winery’s fruit, herb and vegetable gardens.

At Pizzini Wines (pizzini.com.au; 175 King Valley), Katrina Pizzini continues the cooking traditions of her husband’s nonna and passes it on in her classes at the A tavola! Cooking School, located onsite at the cellar door. Also a family business, Katrina runs the kitchen while her husband Fred and daughter Natalie manage the

winery. The cellar door is a cosy venue made all the more homely by a large viewing window that showcases the action in the kitchen. Besides the wines, it is worth pointing out that Katrina’s pastries are superb – her apple strudel is a work of refinement, thanks to nonna Rosetta’s recipe. Her gnocchi too is perfect – delicate yet sturdy in texture.

Pizzini serves reisling, chardonnay, sangiovese, nebbiolo, verduzzo, brachetto and arneis, including some French styles.

The Pizzini family’s cellar door experience is one of the best in the valley, from food and wine to vineyard accommodations.

ABOVE A bottle from Pizzini’s Sangiovese selection

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The Photographer’s Story M A R K DA F F E Y

ARD KUMBH MELA

India’s Kumbh Mela festival is believed to be the largest peaceful gathering of people anywhere on Earth. Though the fair can run over several weeks, as many as 30 million Hindu pilgrims have attended on a single day.

The origins of the Kumbh Mela stem from a mythical battle for a pot of nectar that was said to possess immortal powers.

Opposing deities – one representing good, the other evil – faced off against each other for this eternal prize.

In order to prevent it from falling into the wrong hands, a bird-like creature known as Garuda spirited the nectar away in a kumbh, or pot. During its flight four drops of the nectar fell upon Earth, and it is at these four indentations – at Prayag (Allahabad), Haridwar, Ujjain and Nashik – that the Kumbh Mela alternates around a 12-year cycle.

Earlier this year Haridwar hosted the Ardh (‘Half’) Kumbh Mela, a downsized adaptation that nevertheless attracts huge crowds. Haridwar spreads out along the banks of the Ganges River at the point where it spills out from the Himalayan Mountains onto the northern plains, and Hindus believe that those who submerse themselves in the water here at Har Ki Pauri will wash away a lifetime’s worth of sins. These ghats, where Lord Vishnu is said to have stood, are the most revered location along the world’s holiest river. It’s also the site around which most activity centres.

On February 8, a moonless evening sky marked it as an auspicious date for this year’s Ardh Kumbh Mela. From dawn until dusk pilgrims piled into the river to bathe.

Tented cities popped up around town and bamboo turnstiles were erected to aid the tidal flow of itinerants.

In Haridwar the river gushes past as clear and fresh as a mountain stream, and I couldn’t resist joining the masses dunking their heads in the water. Let me tell you, too, that it was invigorating. Just as the entire Kumbh Mela was.

MARK DAFFEY is an Australian travel writer and photographer who visited India courtesy of Korean Air (koreanair.com) and Crooked Compass (crooked-compass.com). You can follow him on Instagram @markdaffey.

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These women clearly enjoyed themselves while they bathed in the Ganges at Har Ki Pauri

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T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY As many as 17 million people have gathered together on a single day to bathe in the Ganges River at Haridwar

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Crowd members throw their arms in the air while chanting during the evening Aarti ceremony at Har Ki Pauri 74

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An elderly man bathes in the river shortly after dawn

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T H E P H OTO G R A P H E R ’ S S TO RY Clouds filtered the dawn light and the air was perfectly still, allowing for gorgeous reflections of village men and women trudging along dirt embankments beside the river

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MAKE IT HAPPEN ̐ ˨ ͉͈˨ ͉͇͈͍˫ ͉͇͈͐ ˨ ͉͇͉͈˫ ̐ ̭

˨ ˫ ˫ ˫ ̐ ˭ ˭ ˭ ˨ ͈͋

˫ ˭ ˫ ͉͇͈͍ ˨ ˭ ˫ ˫ MAY/JUNE 2016

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E X T R A O R D I N A RY P L A C E S T O S TAY

place s to stay Extraordinary

WORDS JOSMIN ONG

A good hotel, much like a good relationship, boasts equal parts comfort and excitement, intrigue and indulgence, while fulďŹ lling the needs and interests of both parties. For oenophiles seeking a couple’s retreat, a boutique hotel amidst lush aromatic vineyards may be the perfect getaway. Urban dwellers who catch themselves marvelling at historical architecture may prefer staying in culturally-rich abodes. Whether you seek a private respite or a fairytale setting, here are some home-away-from-home options for that next great romantic escape.

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E X T R A O R D I N A RY P L A C E S T O S TAY

HOTEL DANIELI Venice, Italy

CEYLON TEA TRAILS Sri Lanka WHAT IS THE EXOTIC EXPERIENCE? Stay within the world’s first bungalow resort perched at an altitude of 1250m atop Sri Lanka’s panoramic Ceylon tea region, which borders on the World Heritage Central Highlands. A residential tea planter will bring you on a journey of the age-old tea making process – from trekking through dense jungle to picking the best tea leaves and later on, learning the art of making a good brew of tea. Pampered with tea-infused cuisine, tea-based spa treatments and trekking trails that traverse tea-blanketed hills, you will literally lose yourself in the romantic fragrance of tea.

WILL I BE CONVINCED? This iconic property is the first Relais & Chateaux resort in Sri Lanka and holds a total of five restored colonial era bungalows, coupled with gracious butler service and gourmet cuisines. Enjoy a relaxing weekend against the idyllic backdrop of mountains, lakes and waterfalls within the comfort of your private bungalow. Go on foot and enjoy the hikes and clear waters of the rivers as you kayak through them. Mountain biking through tea valleys, croquet, tennis and whitewater rafting are also available for adventurous couples.

WHAT IS THE EXOTIC EXPERIENCE? Fans of Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp might be thrilled to know that the A-listers have filmed in this very establishment for The Tourist, a romantic thriller. Part of The Luxury Collection, Hotel Danieli is a patrimony of Venetian excellence and dominates the Venetian lagoon as it sits steps away from the Bridge of Sighs and the famous monuments of Piazza San Marco. Be whisked away into the contemporary comforts of the hotel as you learn about its precious art and antiques that play witness to the city’s history, evident through its paintings and décor around the hotel.

WILL I BE CONVINCED? Though there are many rooms and suites to choose from, we highly recommend the Doge Dandolo Royal Suite. Covering an impressive 150sqm and with a coveted corner position on the Piano Nobile of Palazzo Dandolo, this is undoubtedly the hotel’s crown jewel. Wake up to 180-degree views of the Venice lagoon and explore the original antique furnishings, fabrics, paintings and chandeliers that brings life to the room.

RATE: US$575++ per night danielihotelvenice.com

RATE: US$665++ PER NIGHT

PHOTOGRAPHS: CEYLON TEA TRAILS, HOTEL DANIELI

resplendentceylon.com/teatrails

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BELMOND HOTEL CIPRIANI Venice, Italy

WILL I BE CONVINCED? The hotel boasts a stunning collection of 95 rooms, including 53 suites and junior suites. The spacious Palladio Suite is the key highlight; situated within the main building, it has a private entrance via an exclusive dock, personal plunge pool, terrace and Jacuzzi.

Did we mention complimentary breakfast, yacht racing, kayaking and even panoramic helicopter rides on request? There’s even an Olympic-size swimming pool filled with heated seawater, the only hotel pool in Central Venice.

RATE: US$665++ per night belmond.com/hotel-cipriani-venice

SPICERS VINEYARDS ESTATE Polkobin, Australia WHAT IS THE EXOTIC EXPERIENCE? Picture a luxuriously appointed estate set amongst rolling vineyards and native bushland, a place to relish in fresh food produce and wine. Spicers Vineyards Estate is the perfect recipe for relaxation and was recently voted as one of the top romantic getaways in Australia. There are plenty of romance packages to choose from including a unique culinary haven experience where you can indulge in a five-course degustation dinner at acclaimed Restaurant Botanica in the evening.

WILL I BE CONVINCED? The cosy private property has 12 luxurious guest rooms, complete with en suite spa and open, woodburning fireplace, created to be a personal haven to relax and unwind in. If you will like a drop of adrenaline with your wine, Hunter Valley serves up a variety of options such as hot air ballooning, a helicopter tour, mountain biking and sky diving. Several world-class golf courses are also on site, including The Vintage designed by legendary Greg Norman.

RATE: US$515++ per night spicersretreats.com/spicers-vineyards-estate

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PHOTOGRAPHS: BELMOND HOTEL CIPRIANI , SPICERS VINEYARDS ESTATE

WHAT IS THE EXOTIC EXPERIENCE? If this is George Clooney’s wedding destination of choice, then you can bet it’s one of the best around. Belmond Hotel Cipriani is five magical minutes by private boat from the bustling St Mark’s Square. This exquisite establishment sits on the stunning Giudecca Island with incredible views of Venice’s picturesque lagoon, and holds a rich history of over 50 years of glamour and legend. You can be assured of impeccable service throughout your stay, and each room is furnished with a harmonious blend of traditional and contemporary Venetian details.

E X T R A O R D I N A RY P L A C E S T O S TAY

ROYAL MANSOUR Marrakech, Morocco

PHOTOGRAPHS: ROYAL MANSOUR

WHAT IS THE EXOTIC EXPERIENCE? Nothing spells romance quite like a private stay within an ancient medina. The Royal Mansour is the result of pure inspiration, a dream made real and a spectacular recreation of a beautiful way of life. Expect to walk down winding passageways, wander among leafy courtyards and tarrying gardens to find peace and pleasure. Behind magnificent doors, you will find chiseled bronze, intricately carved horseshoe arches and many other original yet creative pieces of art around the grand estate. Covering three and a half hectares of land, this is the perfect luxury haven in the heart of Marrakech.

WILL I BE CONVINCED? None of the 53 riads, a traditional Moroccan palace with an interior garden or courtyard, are identical. Each has been individually furnished by craftsmen from Marrakech, Essaouira, Fès and Meknès, with wood panelling, zellige tiling, tadlakt and plasterwork demonstrating the infinite variety of Moroccan decorative arts. While within these ancient walls, cutting-edge technology ranging from retractable glass roofs to a smart air-con system ensure maximum comfort for every guest.

RATE: US$930++ per night royalmansour.com MAY/JUNE 2016

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41st MATTA fair ends with a bang 41st MATTA Fair achieves record visitor numbers with more “surprises” to come in September

LEFT (Left to Right) Madam Chong Yoke Har, Deputy Director General (Strategic & Domestic) of Tourism Malaysia, Datuk Hj Hamzah Rahmat, President of MATTA, Datuk Tee Siew Kiong, Johor State Exco, YBhg. Datuk Rashidi bin Hasbullah, Deputy Secretary General (Tourism), Rizki Handayani, Indonesia Director Ministry of Tourism Republic of Indonesia

(April 19th) While markets may clamour about instability of emerging market currencies and crude oil prices, the climate of travel looks to have taken up the brightest spot as the 41st MATTA Fair draws to a close.

The Malaysian Association of Tours and Travel Agents (MATTA) announced its highest ever visitor figures totalling 113,121 would-be tourists, representing a 23% increase from its 40th fair held in September 2015.

This is the first time the association had achieved such figures since the fairs begun in 1991.

In terms of sales drawn in, the fair generated its biggest sales turnover ever to reach the RM200 million mark.

In terms of tourism destination choices, Malaysia bagged the pole position in terms of popularity as a tourist destination followed closely by China, Japan, Indonesia and Thailand.

Data from Tourism Malaysia revealed that the most popular tourism destination in Malaysia by state was Kedah, followed

by Terengganu, Pahang, Selangor and Kuala Lumpur.

MATTA President Datuk Hj Haji Hamzah Rahmat told reporters at a recent press conference that while affordability remains a key factor for tourists in deciding where to travel, the government’s push towards domestic tourism should see the country

achieving its target of 66 million tourists for 2016.

“We should be able to achieve the target of 66 million tourists set by the government.

As we begin to prioritise domestic tourism, we see a lot of participation from local chief ministers YAB Malacca Chief Minister, Sabah and then followed by Johor.”

“We also see interest from Terengganu and Perak who have already started knocking at our door for the September MATTA Fair,” he said.

Hamzah acknowledged the contributions of the local chief ministers in promoting their respective states and said that these moves would certainly enhance the visibility of their states.

When asked about what would-be travellers can look forward to during the next MATTA Fair, Hamzah remained tight-lipped but promised “surprises” for future visitors.

“As always we would provide surprises to our participants but you would have to be there to find out what.”

The upcoming MATTA Fair will be held on from the 2nd to the 4th of September 2016.

The fun for travellers this year did not end there alone as a total of 56 lucky winners also won exclusive prizes courtesy of MATTA Fair’s Buyer’s contest.

This was inclusive of 6 grand prizes tickets which featured business class trips to various international locations.

The 56 prize winners were chosen out of a pool of 4,136 participants.

The 6 grand prize tickets were 4 roundtrip business-class tickets to Perth, Hong Kong, Bombay and Colombo sponsored by Malaysian Airlines; a roundtrip premium economy class ticket to Frankfurt from Singapore sponsored by Lufthansa German Airlines; and one round trip economy class tickets to Abu Dhabi sponsored

by Etihad Airways.

Visitors who purchased a minimum of RM 300 of travel and holiday packages at the fair were eligible to enter the contest.

Airlines sponsors for the prizes included Vietnam Airlines, Cebu Pacific Air, Egypt Airways, Thai Airways, Air India, Cathay Pacific, Royal Brunei Airlines, Firefly, Oman Air, Malindo Air, KLM and Air Asia.

The MATTA Fair is Malaysia’s largest and most anticipated travel event which is held twice a year at the Putra World Trade Centre.

A total of 205 organizations participated in the 41st MATTA Fair held from 11th March – 13th March 2016 with the largest foreign tourist office represented being the Ministry of Tourism Republic of Indonesia.

The largest tour and travel agents represented during this fair was Apple Vacations & Conventions Sdn Bhd. The noted Indonesian singer Cakra Khan was also present at the 41st MATTA Fair which stunned audiences with his enthralling vocal talents.

M AT TA

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Mini Guides S I X T H E M E D G U I D E S TO TA K E O N T H E P E R F E C T S H O RT B R E A K

Tall buildings surround the central square of Stortorget

MINI GUIDE

Eating and drinking in Stockholm Splash out in one of eight Michelin-starred restaurants, experience husmanskost (Swedish home cooking) and enjoy the city’s café culture.

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Best beaches IPANEMA Rio’s most famous beach, since bossa nova stars Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes introduced the world to it in the ’60s, Ipanema is a long stretch of sand dotted with postos (posts), which mark off subcultures as diverse as the city itself. Posto 9 is where Rio’s most lithe and tanned bodies tend to migrate, as well as a handful of hippies. Sit back, agua de coco in hand, and watch Rio at play.

The cable car and Morro da Urca, seen from Sugarloaf Mountain

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COPACABANA

Beach life in Rio de Janeiro For cariocas (residents of Rio), the beach is their backyard – join them as they prepare to host the Olympics, for volleyball, surfing, snacking or relaxing amid the people parade.

Best activities SURFING

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Superb waves are all around in Rio. For a quick fix, join the locals off Arpoador, a region between Ipanema and Copacabana.

Otherwise, head to the beaches west of Rio – the 700m-long, rainforest-backed Prainha is considered the best surf spot in the area, with waves reaching 3m.

The Surf Bus takes passengers and boards to Prainha from Largo do Machado (single tickets US$1.22).

VOLLEYBALL Whether you’re interested in improving your game, or just meeting some cariocas, pay a visit to Escolinha de Vôlei. Pelé, who speaks English, is an ex-professional volleyball player who has been teaching and hosting volleyball classes since 2001. Look for his large Brazilian flag on the beach near Rua Garcia D’Ávila. Pelé’s students are a mix of locals and expats, who then meet for games after honing the fundamentals (clubrecreativo. com.br; Ipanema Beach).

The long, scalloped beach of Copacabana at sunset

PRAIA VERMELHA

The beach of Copacabana extends for 2½ miles. The ‘stock market’ area, denoted by a rainbow flag, is the gay and transvestite section; football players hold court near Rua Santa Clara; posts 5 and 6 are a mix of favela kids and retirees, while you’ll find the fishermen’s community beach by the Forte de Copacabana. Apart from people watching, the main attraction is running or cycling the beach path, which closes to traffic on Sundays.

Hidden near the cable-car station to Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain), beneath Morro da Urca, this tiny, well-concealed beach has a magnificent panorama of the rocky coastline from the shore.

One of Rio’s prettiest little beaches, its coarse sand gives it the name vermelha (red).

Because Praia Vermelha is protected by the headland, the water is usually calm.

Beach eats

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CARIOCA COM VOCÊ

Rio is known for its big breaks and has a huge surfing community

WALKING Everyone loves the paved Pista Cláudio Coutinho, a 1.2-mile trail winding along the southern contour of Morro do Urca. It’s a lush tree-lined area, with the waves crashing on the rocks below. Look out for families of marmosets with their grey fur, striped tails and tiny faces. To get there, walk 100m north along the edge of Praia Vermelha (with your back to the cable-car station) and you’ll see the beginning of the path straight ahead, just past the beach.

At the northeast end of Leme, elevated over the beach, this peacefully set kiosk serves plates of sardines and other seafood, as well as strong alcoholic drinks. Nearby, you can watch fearless carioca kids diving off the seawall, or take a walk through protected rainforest, home to numerous species of birds (near Praça Almirante Júlio de Noronha; open 24 hours a day; snacks from US$2.87).

TRÈS In recent years, Copacabana has seen a new crop of flashy kiosks replacing the wooden ones, such as this top choice for Francophiles.

Très whips up crêpes, both savoury (blue cheese and walnuts), and sweet (Nutella with banana). It also does cheese and charcuterie plates, milkshakes and appetisers such as pan-fried shrimp with garlic (tresrestaurant.com; Copacabana, at the end of Rua Siqueira Campos; snacks from US$1.43).

A new-style kiosk at Posto 6 on Copacabana beach

URUGUAI Of the many barracas (food stalls) on the beach in Ipanema, Uruguai is a long-term favourite, and has been in business for more than 30 years. Come here for scrumptious chicken, beef or sausage sandwiches, served with tangy chimmichurri sauce. Look for the blue-and-white striped Uruguayan flag flying high over the beach (Posto 9, Ipanema beach, 7.30am–8.30pm; sandwiches from US$2.15).

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MINI GUIDE Beach life in Rio de Janeiro

Rio essentials

WHERE TO STAY Overlooking Arpoador beach, the Arpoador Inn is the only hotel in Ipanema or Copacabana that doesn’t have a busy street between it and the beach. ‘Deluxe’ rooms have glorious ocean views (arpoadorinn.com.br; Rua 88

O Her name is Helô Pinheiro,

Sleep as close to the beach as you can at Marina All Suites

Francisco Otaviano 177; from US$122).

The Casa Mosquito is a beautifully designed guesthouse with luxurious rooms. The 1940s mansion sits in a tranquil garden with views of Sugarloaf Mountain and the Pavão-Pavãozinho favela (casamosquito.com; Rua Saint Roman 222; from US$165).

At the Marina All Suites you’ll find suites made up of pretty bedrooms, beautifully decorated living rooms, and views of the Leblon shoreline. There’s also a top-floor pool, spa and a bar (marinaallsuites.com.br; Avenida Delfim Moreira 696; from US$251).

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Eating

Sleeping

The know-how WHO IS THE GIRL FROM IPANEMA?

TRANSPORT British Airways flies from Singapore to Rio via London Heathrow (from US$1,333; ba.com), while Emirates flies from Kuala Lumpur via Dubai (from US$1,416; emirates.com).

Aeroporto Antônio Carlos Jobin is nine miles north of the city centre. Premium Auto Ônibus runs every 20 mins to Flamengo, Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and other neighbourhoods (1¼–2 hours depending on traffic; US$3.15). Taxis charge US$28 to Copacabana and Ipanema (45–90 mins). The most convenient way to get around is metro – single fares cost 86c, while taxis are useful at night, with rates starting at US$1.15.

Activities

and in 1962, tall, tanned and young (17), she frequently went to the beach of Ipanema. Her route from her home a few blocks away took her past the Bar Veloso, where several men made overtures to her.

O In August 1962, inside a cramped club, Tom Jobim and João Gilberto took to the stage to play a nostalgic, sorrowful tune with a jazzy beat composed by Jobim and poet Vinícius de Moraes – Garota de Ipanema. It became a smash hit and launched bossa nova.

O Helô only became aware that she was the inspiration for the song in 1965. She got to know de Moraes and Jobim – who both proposed to her but instead she married her high-school sweetheart.

FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Rio de Janeiro (US$21.99) is a comprehensive guide to the city and chapters from the book can be downloaded at lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95). For information on all the best surf spots around Rio and up-to-date wave conditions, see wannasurf. com. In Brazil on the Rise, New York Times journalist Larry Rohter takes a journey through the culture, history and economic transformation of Brazil.

COMPILED BY NATALIE MILLMAN, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM REGIS ST LOUIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: ANTONIO BARTUCCIO/SIME/4 CORNERS, PAULO FRIDMAN/CORBIS, MICHAEL ROBERTSON/ALAMY, FLAVIO VELOSO/BRAZIL PHOTOS/ LIGHTPOCKET VIA GETTY IMAGES

Beaches

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Café VURMA

Tall buildings surround the central square of Stortorget

MINI GUIDE

ROSENDALS TRÄDGÅRD

Eating and drinking in Stockholm Splash out in one of eight Michelin-starred restaurants, experience husmanskost (Swedish home cooking) and enjoy the city’s café culture.

High-end

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OPERAKÄLLAREN Inside Stockholm’s show-off Opera House, the century-old Operakällaren is a major gastronomic event. Decadent chandeliers, golden mirrors, panelled walls and exquisitely carved ceilings set the scene for French-meets-fusion adventures such as butter-baked Arctic char with almond crisp, mushroom duxelles and beurre blanc (operakallaren.se; Karl XII’s Torg 10; closed Sun & Mon and mid-Jul–mid-Aug; tasting menu from US$160).

Set among the greenhouses of a botanical garden, Rosendals is an idyllic spot for pastries and coffee, or a meal and a glass of wine. Lunch includes organic delights such as a ground-lamb burger with chanterelles. Much of the produce is biodynamic and grown on site (rosendalstradgard. se; Rosendalsterrassen 12; Tue–Sun 11am–4pm most months, see full hours online; mains from US$10.15).

Chokladkoppen is a popular locale in the heart of Stockholm

CHOKLADKOPPEN Arguably Stockholm’s bestloved café, hole-in-the-wall Chokladkoppen sits slap bang on the old town’s enchanting main square, Stortorget. It’s a gayfriendly spot, with cute waiters, a look-at-me summer terrace and dishes such as broccoli-and-bluecheese pie and scrumptious cakes.

The hot chocolate is simply divine (chokladkoppen.se; Stortorget 18; cakes from US$4.35).

Swedish

ERIKS GONDOLEN Perched above Slussen, atop the 1930s Katarinahissen lift, this place is known for top-notch Swedish food, refined service, perfect cocktails and views of the lovely Stockholm skyline. There’s a formal dining room or you can keep it a little more casual in the bar area. Try the shellfish platter or dishes such as lamb with baked celeriac and chanterelles (eriks.se; Stadsgården 6; mains from US$25).

Squeeze in among the locals at this friendly café-bakery, a reliably affordable place to get a healthy and substantial meal in an unfussy setting. The salads and sandwiches are inspired, with ingredients such as halloumi, falafel, salmon, avocado and quinoa or pasta.

The homemade bread that comes with your order is a particular highlight (vurma.se; Gästrikegatan 2; sandwiches from US$5.80).

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The service is impeccable at Operakällaren

Small but perfectly formed, this spot wows with creative takes on traditional Swedish dishes. Expect the likes of salmon carpaccio or smoked reindeer salad followed by a spirit-warming saffron aioli shellfish stew. The service is seamless and the atmosphere classy without being stuffy. The brief weekend lunch menu is a bargain (restaurangkrypin.se; Prästgatan 17; mains from US$22).

MATHIAS DAHLGREN Celebrity chef Mathias Dahlgren has settled in at the Grand Hôtel with a two-sided restaurant: the formal Matsalen (Dining Room), which has been awarded two Michelin stars, and the bistro-style Matbaren (Food Bar), with its own Michelin star. Both restaurants focus on seasonal ingredients – expect the likes of black truffle pizza (mdghs.se; Grand Hôtel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 6; Matsalen dinner Tue–Sat; Matsalen tasting menu US$217).

The buffet at the Veranda where smörgåsbord is served

TRANAN

THE VERANDA Head inside the Grand Hôtel for the famous smörgåsbord, especially over Christmas, when it becomes even more elaborate.

Arrive early for a window seat and tuck into Swedish staples, such as gravadlax with almond potatoes, herring, meatballs and lingonberry jam. It’s like a belt-busting crash course in classic Nordic flavours (grandhotel.se; Grand Hôtel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8; smörgåsbord US$55).

Locals pack this former beer hall, now a comfy but classy neighbourhood bistro with a seafood-heavy menu and red-checked tablecloths.

The food combines Swedish husmanskost with savvy Gallic touches; don’t miss the fried herring. At the weekends, DJs and live bands perform in the popular basement bar (tranan. se; Karlbergsvägen 14; evenings only; mains from US$21.75).

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MINI GUIDE Eating & drinking in Stockholm

Stockholm essentials TRANSPORT

WHERE TO STAY Just off Götgatan, Hotel Anno 1647 has labyrinthine corridors, gorgeous wooden floors and spiral staircases. Standard rooms have Rococo wallpaper, chandeliers and mod cons, while economy rooms are simple with almost comically tiny, shared bathrooms (anno1647. se; Mariagränd 3; from US$94.17).

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Turkish Airlines flies with one stop from both Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Stockhom's Arlanda airport, 28 miles north of the city (from US$619; turkishairlines.com). The Arlanda Express train takes 20 minutes to reach Stockholm’s Centralstationen (US$32; arlandaexpress.com), the Flygbuss about 40 minutes to Cityterminalen (US$16; flygbussarna.se). Stockholm is easily walkable and well served with bicycle routes, trains, buses, tram and metro: a one-day travel card costs US$14.45 (sl.se/en).

Rooms at Hotel Rival feature posters from Swedish films

Clarion Hotel feels like an art museum, with a huge wall mural in the foyer and sculptures by Kirsten Ortwed. The hotel has several bars and restaurants, and a spa where you can book ayurvedic treatments (clarionstockholm.com; Ringvägen 98; from US$166.60).

Owned by Benny Andersson of ABBA fame, Hotel Rival is a design hotel complete with a ’40s movie theatre and Art Deco cocktail bar.

The bakery-café and restaurant attached to the hotel are prime people-watching spots (rival.se; Mariatorget 3; from US$260.77).

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Historically in Sweden, the growing season was short due to harsh weather. The country’s eating and cooking habits developed around a reverence for local, seasonal ingredients and methods of preservation.

O Meatballs Strictly speaking, traditional Swedish meatballs are made with ground beef, pork and veal, and are served with gravy, lingonberries and boiled or mashed new potatoes.

O Herring This little fish is fried, pickled, mushed in salads or rolled up in wraps. In Swedish it’s either called sill or strömming, depending on which coast it comes from.

O Reindeer It’s prepared in every imaginable way – dried, cured, pickled, smoked, roasted – and served with berry sauces.

O Each province makes its own type of cheese; Västerbotten ou is a favourite (you a). can find it in Ikea).

FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Sweden (US$24.99) has a chapter on Stockholm, downloadable from lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95). Pocket Stockholm (US$13.99) is well suited to a city break. To discover where the locals like to fill up, see likealocalguide. com/stockholm/eating.

Wunderkind director Lukas Moodysson’s We Are the Best! is a thrilling and heartwarming movie about three high-school girls in 1980s Stockholm who form a punk band out of spite.

COMPILED BY NATALIE MILLMAN, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM BECKY OHLSEN. PHOTOGRAPHS: AKE E SON LINDMAN, JOHNER IMAGES/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, HAMPUS ÖBERG, LEONARDO PATRIZI/ISTOCK IMAGES

Eating

A view over Hong Kong from Victoria Peak

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Pre-colonial PING SHAN From Tin Shui Wai station in the northwestern New Territories, a one-mile heritage trail takes in centuries-old ancestral halls, including one bearing the name of the Tang clan, which follows a unique structure that showed their status in the imperial court. Also take in Tsui Sing Lau, the only surviving ancient pagoda in Hong Kong (amo.gov. hk; ancestral halls open 9am–1pm & 2pm–5pm).

MINI GUIDE

TAI MIU TEMPLE

Architecture in Hong Kong Welcome to one of the most dazzling skylines in the world, where skyscrapers march up from the steep, jungle-clad hills – these buildings deserve closer inspection.

Colonial

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SAM TUNG UK MUSEUM This well-tended museum portrays rural life as it was in this late-18th-century walled village, the former residents of which (the Chan clan) were resettled in 1980. Within the complex a dozen three-beamed houses contain traditional furnishings, kitchenware, wedding items and agricultural implements (heritagemuseum.gov.hk; 2 Kwu Uk Lane; closed Tue; free).

Contemporary

FORMER LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL BUILDING This colonnaded and domed building (1912) was built of granite quarried on Stonecutters Island, and served as the seat of the Legislative Council from 1985–2012. Now the most imposing colonial edifice left in town, during WWII it was an HQ of the gendarmerie, the Japanese version of the Gestapo (8 Jackson Rd, Central).

One of several temples dedicated to Tin Hau, goddess of the sea, this one facing Joss House Bay was built in the 13th century in gratitude by two Fujianese who escaped a storm at sea. The temple was restored in 2009.

Just behind it is a Song-dynasty rock carving dating from 1274.

It is the oldest inscription extant in Hong Kong (ctc.org.hk; Tai Au Mun Rd, Clearwater Bay Peninsula; 8am–5pm).

Tai Miu Temple is Hong Kong’s oldest and largest Tin Hau temple

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Government House was used by British governors for 142 years

GOVERNMENT HOUSE

ST JOHN’S CATHEDRAL

Parts of this erstwhile official residence of the chief executive of Hong Kong, and previously the colonial governors, date from 1855. Other features were added by the Japanese, who used it as military headquarters during the occupation of Hong Kong in WWII, making it an elegant, indubitably rare neo-Georgian and Japanese hybrid. It’s open to the public on weekends a few times a year – check the website for dates (ceo.gov.hk/gh; Upper Albert Rd, Central).

Criticised for blighting the colony’s landscape when it was first built, today this Anglican cathedral is an oft-forgotten reminder of Britain, and it stands on the only piece of freehold land in the whole of Hong Kong. Services have been held since the cathedral opened in 1849. It suffered heavy damage during WWII, and the front doors were remade using timber salvaged from a British warship (stjohnscathedral.org. hk; 4–8 Garden Rd, Central; 7am–6pm).

This 52-storey glass and aluminium masterpiece of precision by Sir Norman Foster is full of good feng shui: there’s no structure blocking its view of Victoria Harbour because water is associated with prosperity. Take the escalator to the 3rd floor to gaze at the cathedrallike atrium (1 Queen’s Rd Central, Central; 9am–4.30pm Mon– Fri, 9am–12.30pm Sat).

Experience a feline artistic overload at the Kattenkabinet

BANK OF CHINA TOWER The awesome 70-storey towe, designed by IM Pei (of Louvre Pyramid fame) rises from the ground and is then successively reduced, quarter by quarter, until the south-facing side is left to rise on its own – it is often compared to bamboo. The public viewing gallery on the 43rd floor offers panoramic views of the cityscape (1 Garden Rd, Central; gallery 8am–6pm Mon–Fri).

HONG KONG CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE This massive centre, which was built in 1988 and extended onto an artificial island in the harbour for the official ceremony of the return of sovereignty to China in 1997, has been compared with a bird’s wing, a banana leaf and a lotus petal. It’s a leading venue for large trade fairs, exhibitions and conventions (hkcec.com.hk; 1 Expo Dr).

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MINI GUIDE Architecture in Hong Kong

Hong Kong essentials TRANSPORT

WHERE TO STAY Mei Ho House marked the beginning of Hong Kong’s public housing policy but has now been converted to a youth hostel that offers immaculate en suite rooms, as well as a museum 92

The know-how THE CITY’S BEST VIEWS

Cathay Pacific and SilkAir fly direct from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur to Hong Kong International Airport (from US$173; cathaypacific.com). The Airport Express train is the fastest way to get to the city (US$11.60; 35 mins to Central), plus it stops at Kowloon station in Jordan and at Tsing Yi island. Buses A11 and A12 run to the major hotel areas on Hong Kong island (from US$4.35), while the A21 covers Kowloon hotel areas. A prepaid Octopus Card can be used on most forms of public transport in Hong Kong. For short stays, buy a one-day (US$6.50) pass for unlimited rides on the MTR (mtr.com.hk).

The Peninsula’s lobby is a classic place to have afternoon tea

and café (yha.org.hk; Block 41, Shek Kip Mei Estate; from US$94).

East is a sleek business hotel with 345 bright rooms decorated with contemporary art and minimalist furniture.

The 32nd-floor bar, Sugar, is spectacular for sunset cocktails (east-hongkong.com; 29 Taikoo Shing Rd; from US$217).

The Peninsula, Hong Kong’s finest hotel, exudes colonial elegance. Stay in one of the 300 classic European-style rooms, many with spectacular harbour views; all have opulent marble bathrooms (hongkong.peninsula. com; Salisbury Rd; from US$485).

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O Victoria Peak is the highest point on Hong Kong Island and offers superlative views of the city and the mountainous countryside beyond.

O The territory’s highest observation deck, Sky 100, is on the 100th floor of Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC in West Kowloon (pictured).

O Head to the car park atop the Harbour City shopping mall and cruise terminal, where Victoria Harbour lies in all its glory.

O Take the Star Ferry between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui, and let Hong Kong unfold before you.

O The lounge at the InterContinental hotel is one of the best spots to soak up the skyline and busy harbour.

FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Hong Kong (US$21.99) is a comprehensive guide, and chapters from the book can be downloaded at lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95), while Pocket Hong Kong (US$13.99) is ideal for stopovers. For more on Hong Kong’s architecture, read the illustrated pocket guide Skylines: Hong Kong, by Peter Moss. Already Tomorrow in Hong Kong (2015) is a film of budding love in the maddening city.

COMPILED BY NATALIE MILLMAN, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM PIERA CHEN AND EMILY MATCHAR. PHOTOGRAPHS: CLAUDIO CASSARO/SIME/4 CORNERS, BOB HENRY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, MOHR/ULLSTEIN BILD VIA GETTY IMAGES, PETER SCHOLEY/ALAMY, TRAVEL PIX COLLECTION/AWL IMAGES

Sights

The 14th-century Charles Bridge connects the Old Town with Prague Castle

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Sights WALKING TOUR A number of companies offer guided walking tours of the city for ‘free’ (no fee, but a tip).

Prague Extravaganza is recommended – its local volunteers depart twice daily from outside the Powder Tower at Náměstí Republiky, and the two-hour tour is split into two parts: the Old Town and the Jewish Quarter, then the lesser town and Prague Castle (extravaganzafree tour.com; daily 11am & 3.30pm).

MINI GUIDE

MUSEUM OF THE INFANT DAVID ČERNÝ JESUS You can spot works by Prague’s

Budget Prague Once famously inexpensive, the Czech capital is no longer universally cheap. No matter – gazing at glorious architecture and enjoying a frothy beer will still hardly dent your wall.

The Church of Our Lady Victorious, built in 1613, is home to a 47cm-tall waxwork figure of the baby Jesus, brought from Spain in 1628. Known as the Infant Jesus of Prague, it is said to have protected Prague from the plague and from the destruction of the Thirty Years’ War. Over the years, benefactors have donated 70 costumes, now on show in the church museum (pragjesu.info; Karmelitská 9; free).

Eating and drinking

Entertainment

MISTRAL CAFÉ Pale stone, bleached birchwood and potted shrubs make for a crisp, modern look in the Old Town. The clientele of local students and office workers clearly appreciate the competitively priced, well-prepared food, which includes fish and chips in crumpled brown paper with lemon and black-pepper mayo (mistralcafe.cz; Valentinská 11; mains from US$4.35).

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A red car sculpture by David Černý hangs outside Meet Factory

CUKRKÁVALIMONÁDA A cute café-cum-restaurant that combines understated modern styling with Renaissance-era painted timber roof-beams, CKL offers scrumptious hot chocolate, homemade pastas, frittatas, ciabattas, salads and pancakes (sweet and savoury) by day and a slightly more sophisticated bistro menu in the early evening.

The name means ‘sugar, coffee, lemonade’ – the Czech equivalent of ‘eeny-meeny-minymoe’ (cukrkavalimonada.com; Lázeňská 7; 9am–7pm; mains from US$4.35).

most famous living artist all over the city. Proudy is an animatronic sculpture of two guys peeing in a puddle shaped like the Czech Republic (Cihelná); in the garden of Futura Gallery, you’ll find an installation called Brownnosers (futuraproject.cz). Černý works with artists from around the world at Meet Factory, a disused factory that’s now an exhibition space (meetfactory.cz; Ke Sklárně 3213).

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Pancakes with cream cheese and raspberries at Mistral Café

LOKÁL Genius: a classic Czech beer hall (albeit with slick modern styling); excellent tankové pivo (tanked Pilsner Urquell); a daily-changing menu of traditional Bohemian dishes; smiling, efficient service; and a nonsmoking area! Top restaurant chain Ambiente has turned its hand to Czech cuisine, and the result has been so successful that the place is always busy, mostly with locals (lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz; Dlouhá 33; 11am–1am Mon–Sat, 11am–midnight Sun; mains from US$4.35).

With its array of jazz bands, buskers, caricature artists and postcard sellers, Charles Bridge has a lively mix of free entertainment, and a stroll across it is everybody’s favourite Prague activity. By 9am it’s a 500m-long fairground, so, in the crush, don’t forget to look at the bridge itself, which was completed in 1390 – the bridge towers have great views up and down the Vltava river.

ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK

Roxy opened its doors in Prague’s early post-communist days

ROXY

Prague’s Old Town Hall, founded in 1338, is a hotchpotch of medieval buildings presided over by a Gothic tower with a splendid Astronomical Clock. Crowds gather on the hour to watch the clock in action – the 45-second performance is one of Europe’s best-known attractions. The clock has an intriguing symbolism (staromestskaradnicepraha.cz; Staroměstské náměstí 1; free).

Set in the ramshackle shell of an Art Deco cinema in Staré Město, the legendary Roxy has nurtured the more independent and innovative end of Prague’s club spectrum since 1992 – this is the place to see the Czech Republic’s top DJs. On the first floor is NoD, an experimental space that stages drama, dance, performance art, cinema and live music (roxy.cz; Dlouhá 33; 7pm–5am; cover price from free, see individual listings).

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MINI GUIDE Budget Prague

Prague essentials TRANSPORT

WHERE TO STAY The Czech Inn calls itself a hostel, but the boutique label wouldn’t be out of place. Iron beds, brushed-steel floors and Belfast sinks give this hostel offering dorm rooms, doubles and apartments an industrial feel (czech-inn.com; from US$36.22).

Miss Sophie’s mixes a grey

Find hostel rooms with design hotel décor at Miss Sophie’s

palette with colourfully eccentric touches, and the place is famous for its huge rainfall showers.

There’s a cool basement lounge, with red-brick vaults and black leather sofas (miss-sophies.com; Melounova 3; from US$65).

The modern Extol Inn is in an up-and-coming neighbourhood within reach of the city centre by tram. The cheapest rooms are no-frills affairs with shared bathrooms; three-star rooms have en suites, minibars and TVs (extolinn.cz; Přístavni 2; from US$72.44).

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Eating

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The know-how ARCHITECTURE IN PRAGUE

Turkish Airways and Finnair fly to Prague from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur with one stop (from US$733; turkishairways.com). To get to town from the airport, take bus 119 to the end of metro line A (Dejvická; 20 minutes) then continue by metro into the centre (10–15 minutes). Alternatively, a taxi costs around US$23.18.

Central Prague is fairly compact, and individual neighbourhoods are easily explored on foot, while its integrated metro, tram and bus network covers the rest (US$1.45 for a basic ticket valid for 90 minutes; dpp.cz/en).

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O Basilica of St George The city’s finest Romanesque building, characterised by rounded façades and arched doors.

O St Vitus Cathedral Built over 600 years, this is one of the most richly endowed cathedrals in central Europe.

O St Nicholas Church The most impressive example of Baroque style (pictured below), its green dome is a fitting symbol of the Catholic Church’s dominance over 18th-century Prague.

O Crowne Plaza Hotel Built in 1954, this is designed in the bombastic Stalinist, socialist-realist style.

O Žižkov TV Tower This colossal building dates from the end of the communist period.

O Dancing House This building from after the Velvet Revolution resembles two dancers.

FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Prague & the Czech Republic (US$21.99) has plenty of information on Prague plus day-trip suggestions.

Chapters from the book can be downloaded at lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95).

Livingprague.com is an insider guide to the city by a British expat.

Franz Kafka is the bestknown writer to have lived in Prague – no prizes for guessing which castle he was thinking about in his modern classic The Castle (Penguin Classics).

COMPILED BY NATALIE MILLMAN, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM NEIL WILSON. PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHAL BARBUSCAK, DAVID CERNY, GORNOSTAJ/ISTOCK IMAGES, © 2015 WWW.KLAPPER.CZ DIGITALISM ROXY PRAGUE, MO PEERBACUS/ ALAMY

Tours

Atlanta’s skyline is dominated by the Bank of America Plaza

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Historic sights GEORGIA STATE CAPITOL The gold-domed capitol is Atlanta’s political hub. The free tours include a film about the legislative process and a glance at the government’s communications facility. There’s also a museum featuring Native American artifacts (gov.georgia. gov/capitol; Capitol Ave SW; 8am–5pm Mon–Fri, guided tours Mon–Fri mornings, free).

MINI GUIDE

Stopover Atlanta The capital of the US state of Georgia (and unofficially the South) has illustrious history, big-ticket attractions and restaurants serving smokin’ ribs and craft cocktails.

Museums and galleries WORLD OF COCA-COLA

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The climactic moment at this self-congratulatory museum comes when you get to sample 60 or more Coke products from around the world. There are also Andy Warhol pieces to view, a ‘4D’ film to catch, company history to learn and countless promotional materials to behold (worldofcoca-cola.com; 121 Baker St; open daily, 10am–5pm; US$16).

HIGH MUSEUM OF ART This museum is a destination as much for its architecture as its world-class exhibits. The striking whitewashed multi-level building houses a permanent collection of eye-catching late-19th-century furniture and countless European and American collections, contemporary pieces and Georgian folk art (high.org; 1280 Peachtree St NE; 10am–5pm Tue–Thu & Sat, 10am–9pm Fri, from noon Sun, from 4pm Fri; US$19.50).

Martin Luther King Jr’s home, part of the National Historic Site

MARTIN LUTHER KING JR NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE

FIRST EBENEZER BAPTIST CHURCH

The historic site commemorates the legacy of the civil rights leader and one of the great Americans. A stop by the excellent visitor centre will help you get oriented with a map of exhibits that elucidate the segregation, systematic oppression and racial violence that inspired and fuelled King’s work (nps.gov/malu; 450 Auburn Ave NE; 9am–5pm; free).

The church, founded in 1886 and still holding sermons today, was where Martin Luther King Jr was baptised and served as a pastor, delivering his first sermon in 1948. A multimillion-dollar restoration, completed in 2011, bought the church back to the 1960–68 period (nps.gov/malu; 407 Auburn Ave NE; tours 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1pm– 5pm Sun; free).

Dining

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DADDY D’Z

The vault at the World of CocaCola that holds the secret recipe

CARTER PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY & MUSEUM Located on a hilltop overlooking downtown, it features exhibits highlighting Jimmy Carter’s 1977–81 presidency, including a replica of the Oval Office.

Carter’s Nobel Prize is also on display. The 1½-mile-long Freedom Park Trail leads from here to the Martin Luther King Jr National Historic Site through Freedom Park (jimmycarterlibrary.gov; 441 Freedom Pkwy; 9am–4.45pm Mon–Sat, from noon Sun; US$8).

This juke joint of a BBQ shack, consistently voted the best in town, has graffiti murals on the exterior, an all-powerful smoky essence and reclaimed booths on the covered patio. Order the succulent ribs or a pulled-pork plate – you’ll leave smiling (daddydz.com; 264 Memorial Dr SE; 11am–10.30pm Mon– Thu, to 11.30pm Fri–Sat, noon–9.30pm Sun; plate of four ribs US$15.50).

Vintage-style furnishings and menu at the West Egg Café

LEON’S FULL SERVICE WEST EGG CAFÉ Belly up to the marble breakfast counter or grab a table and dive into a salmon cake Benedict, eggs and grits, banana-bread French toast, a fried green tomato BLT, sugar bacon pancakes or short rib hash.

All the dishes are re-imagined versions of classics, served in a stylish and spare dining room (westeggcafe.com; 1100 Howell Mill Rd; 7am–4pm Mon–Fri, 8am–5pm Sat–Sun; brunch from US$9).

In Decatur, 15 minutes east of downtown on the MARTA Blue Line, this no-pretence place sells beer, wine and cocktails – their spirits are all crafted, small-batch creations – and has a menu featuring the likes of pan-roasted trout with roasted cauliflower and apple-curry broth. No reservations (leonsfullservice. com; 131 E Ponce de Leon Ave; 5pm–1am Mon, 11.30am–1am Tue–Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri–Sat; mains from US$12.50).

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MINI GUIDE Stopover Atlanta

Atlanta essentials TRANSPORT Atlanta’s huge Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport, nine miles south of downtown, is the main US hub for Delta. The airline flies there from Singapore, as do British Airways and United (from US$1,484; ba.com). British Airways also flies from Kuala Lumpur. The Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority (MARTA) rail line links the airport with downtown. Buy a Breeze card (card is US$2, US$2.50 one-way fare, US$9 day pass; itsmarta.com), which can be loaded and reloaded as necessary.

You can hire a car at the airport, although driving through Atlanta can be frustratingly slow.

WHERE TO STAY The Highland Inn, a Europeanstyle hotel from 1927, has a great location in Virginia-Highland. With its own casual music venue, the Ballroom Lounge, this traditional place has a lyrical personality (thehighlandinn.com; 644 N 96

O The leading figure of the civil

Highland Ave; from US$125).

This 1924 Spanish-Med-style landmark was revamped in 2009 resulting in the artistic boutique Artmore Hotel. Expect excellent service, a courtyard with fire pit – an ideal spot for a glass of wine – and a superb location (1302 West Peachtree St; from US$190).

In the heart of the arts in Midtown, Loews Atlanta Hotel is a new, smart boutique place. Its Exhale Spa will help you recover from any jet lag, while the contemporary art adds a bit of flair (loewshotels.com; 1065 Peachtree St NE; from US$335).

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Sleeping

The know-how MARTIN LUTHER KING JR: CIVIL RIGHTS GIANT

The Artmore Hotel is minutes from the High Museum of Art

Eating

rights movement, King was born in 1929, the son of an Atlanta preacher and choir leader. He followed his father to the pulpit and his political speeches rang out with a preacher’s inflections.

O In 1955, King led the year-long bus boycott in Montgomery, Alabama, which resulted in the US Supreme Court removing laws that enforced segregated buses.

O In 1963 he gave the legendary ‘I Have a Dream’ speech in Washington DC, and the following year received the Nobel Peace Prize. Over 10 years he led a movement that ended a system of statutory discrimination in existence since the country’s founding in 1798.

FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Eastern USA (US$24.99) has a chapter on the South, including Georgia, which is also available to download at lonelyplanet.com (US$4.95).

For listings information see atlantaperforms.com, and atlantamusicguide.com for live music. Margaret Mitchell wrote the epic Gone With the Wind in a small ground-floor flat in a house in Atlanta (Pan).

Much of the book and its 1939 film adaptation are set in the city, although the film was shot in California.

COMPILED BY NATALIE MILLMAN, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM AMY C BALFOUR. PHOTOGRAPHS: STEVE KELLEY/GETTY IMAGES, JEFF HERR PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE ARTMORE HOTEL, STEPHEN F SOMERSTEIN/GETTY IMAGES

Sights

Kitzbühel’s ski tourism industry goes back as far as 1894

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Skiing KITZBÜHEL Kitzbühel is one of Europe’s foremost ski resorts: downhill skiers flock here for the 105 miles of groomed, mostly intermediate slopes, while off-piste enthusiasts find plenty of powder to play on at high elevations. Kitzbüheler Horn is much loved by beginners for its gentle cruising on sunny slopes.

The alpine tour is a good introduction to the entire ski area (kitzbuehel.com).

MINI GUIDE

MAYRHOFEN

Active in the Tyrol Even tiny villages in this Austrian province have their own ski schools, while non-skiers can climb frozen waterfalls, paraglide over snowy vistas and dance at après-ski parties

Snow sports

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BOBSLEIGH For a minute in the life of an Olympic bobsleigh racer, you can’t beat the Olympia Bobbahn, built for the 1976 Winter Olympics. Zipping around 10 curves and hitting speeds of up to 100km/h, the bob run is 800m of hair-raising action. You can join a professional bobsleigh driver – call ahead for the exact times.

To reach it, take bus J from the Landesmuseum to Igls Olympiaexpress (olympiaworld. at; Heiligwasserwiese, Igls; Dec– Mar & Jul–Aug; from US$29).

ST ANTON AM ARLBERG

St Anton is the zenith of Austria’s Alpine skiing. The terrain is vast, covering 174 miles of slopes, and the skiing challenging, with exhilarating descents including the Kandahar run on Galzig.

For fledglings, there are nursery slopes on Gampen (1,850m) and Kapall (2,330m). A single ski pass is valid for all 94 ski lifts in the Arlberg region (one-day pass US$51; stantonamarlberg.com).

Adventure sports

SKI JUMP Rising above Innsbruck like a celestial staircase, the glass-andsteel Bergisel ski jump was designed by Dame Zaha Hadid. The panorama of the Nordkette range, Inntal and Innsbruck is breathtaking, though the cemetery at the bottom has undoubtedly made a few ski-jumping pros quiver in their boots (bergisel.info; 9am–6pm; US$10.15).

Snow-sure Mayrhofen has 99 miles of slopes, mostly geared towards intermediates, as well as some great off-piste action. The skiing ranges from scenic runs for cruisers, to knee-trembling black runs, including the infamous Harakiri: a 78 per cent gradient, only for super-fit, experienced skiers. The ski pass is valid for all cable cars, snowboard parks and lifts in Mayrhofen (one-day pass US$51; mayrhofen.at).

St Anton am Arlberg is one of Europe’s snowiest spots

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PARAGLIDING

The Bergisel Skijump Stadium can host 26,000 spectators

The storybook Zillertal valley is sandwiched between the Tuxer Voralpen and the Kitzbühel Alpen; admire the valley from the air by taking a tandem paraglider flight. During winter, flights mostly take place in the Zillertal Arena, or in the Hochzillertal in Mayrhofen – and the snowscape will take your breath away (aktivzentrum-zillertal.at; Freizeitpark Zell; from US$58).

CROSS COUNTRY Seefeld sits high on a southfacing plateau, ringed by the rugged limestone peaks of the Wetterstein and Karwendel Alps.

While most Tyrolean resorts are crazy about downhill, Seefeld’s first love is langlauf (crosscountry skiing), and fans of the sport flock here to skate and glide along 173 miles of well-groomed trails in winter.

They criss-cross the sunny plateau to Mösern, three miles away, where there are fine views of the Inn River and peaks beyond. A day pass costs US$3.

ICE CLIMBING Gain an introduction to the basic techniques of ice climbing and be rewarded by stunning vistas as you tackle one of the numerous frozen waterfalls of the Zillertal. At Salewa Mountain Shop, you can take a five-hour intro class or, if you’re up for more of a challenge, choose the basic ice climbing three-day course (zillertal-alpin.at; Hauptstrasse 412; three days from US$290).

Paragliding affords fine views over the wide Zillertal valley

OTHER ACTIVITIES Landeck’s surrounding amphitheatre of forested peaks and the fast-flowing Inn and Sanna Rivers make it the ideal place to try your hand at a host of activities. Sport Camp Tirol is a one-stop action shop for the likes of paragliding, canyoning, white-water rafting, mountain biking, via ferrata and hydrospeeding (sportcamptirol. at; Mühlkanal 1; sport card of three activities US$153).

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MINI GUIDE Active in the Tyrol

Tyrol essentials TRANSPORT

WHERE TO STAY High on a hilltop near Zell am Ziller, Enzianhof is a rustic farmhouse perfectly located for hiking and skiing, and has warm, spacious rooms. The farmer makes his own schnapps and smokes his own ham (enzianhof. eu; Gerlosberg 23; from US$58).

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The know-how APRÈS-SKI FAVOURITES

Lufthansa provides the most direct flight from Singapore to Tyrol’s capital with one stop (from US$1,051; lufthansa.com).

Innsbruck Airport lies three miles west of the city centre, and bus F departs every 15 or 20 minutes to Maria-Theresien-Strasse (US$2.18), while taxis charge about US$11. Salzburg Airport may also be useful for the easternmost parts of Tyrol.

Regional transport, covering buses, trams and Österreiche Bundesbahn trains, is run by the Verkehrsverbund Tirol (vvt.at). A single ticket costs US$2.18, a day pass US$4.10.

Hotel Villa Licht features eight doubles with individual designs

Hotel Weisses Kreuz has hosted guests in Innsbruck for 500 years, including a 13-yearold Mozart. There are woodpanelled parlours and a twisting staircase, rooms are comfortable, and breakfast is a lavish spread (weisseskreuz.at; from US$80).

Pretty gardens, warm-hued rooms with pine trappings, balconies with mountain views – Hotel Villa Licht is a charming Tyrolean chalet in Kitzbühel, and the owner goes out of her way for guests (villa-licht.at; FranzReisch-Straße 8; from US$160).

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St Anton is Austria’s après-ski king. Here’s where the locals like to party as hard as they ski: O Taps The cheapest beer on the mountain and a resident DJ keeping the party in full swing.

There’s a huge sun terrace and free homemade schnapps.

O Fanghouse A laid-back hangout with a big terrace and Jägermeister shots served at -17°C. Live music and quiz nights are also on offer.

O Piccadilly A loud, crowded British pub with live music.

O Heustadl A shack fit to bursting, with live music most afternoons.

O Mooserwirt Beer drinkers dance the evening away to a Eurotrash mix.

O Krazy Kanguruh Owned by two-time slalom world champion Mario Matt, this slope-side hotspot is loud, fun and jam-packed after 5pm.

FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s Austria (US$24.99) has a chapter on Tyrol & Vorarlberg, which is also available to download at lonelyplanet. com (US$4.95). Zillertaler Gästezeitung magazine contains plenty of information on outdoor activities – see zgs.at/ medien/zillertalergaestezeitung (in German only). Scenes from the recent Bond film Spectre were filmed in Sölden, the Ötztal and Obertilliach in eastern Tyrol.

COMPILED BY NATALIE MILLMAN, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KERRY CHRISTIANI. PHOTOGRAPHS: BART PRO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, GMBH/REX SHUTTERSTOCK, © MEDIA LOUNGE/HERBERT WACKERLE, MARTIN RAFFEINER/MULTI VISUAL ART, © TVB ST ANTON AM ARLBERG

Activities

PRIZE DRAW

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This great prize includes: Two nights’ stay in a Laguna Holiday Club Phuket Resort One Bedroom Suite

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To be in with a chance of winning this fantastic prize, simply fill in your details on the entry form and send it to: Regent Media Pte Ltd, Lonely Planet Asia May/Jun 2016, 20 Bedok South Road Singapore 469277. Alternatively you can email to lpcontests@ regentmedia.sg, titled May/Jun 2016 - LAGUNA HOLIDAY CLUB PHUKET RESORT Promotion with your full name, ID number, contact number and address. Competition closes 30 Jun 2016 at 11.59pm.

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MAY/JUNE 2016

99

Travel Quiz

What on Earth?

2

Which country’s culture is celebrated on Cinco de Mayo (5 May)?

3

Charlotte Brontë was born 200 years ago this April. In which West Yorkshire village did she and her fellow novelist sisters live for most of their lives?

1

In which European country do most people not have family names?

(Phone book listings are under first names.)

5

6

Which continent are ostriches native to?

7

The Rhine and the Danube both pass through Germany. Which other country lies on both their courses?

9 8

There are seven independent states whose names end in -stan. Can you name the only one that has an ocean coast?

Rearrange earrra r ng ngee ‘made ‘m mad a e marrt’ to to get geet the t e th smart’ amee of of a capital capi ca p taal city. pi city ci city ty. name

1) HAWORTH. 2) MEXICO (THOUGH THE DAY IS MARKED MORE IN THE US THAN IN MEXICO ITSELF). 3) MONKEY PUZZLE TREE. 4) INDONESIA (ALSO FOUND IN MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE).

5) ICELAND – MOST ICELANDERS FORM THEIR LAST NAME FROM THEIR FATHER’S FIRST NAME. 6) AFRICA. 7) AUSTRIA. 8) AMSTERDAM. 9) PAKISTAN.

YOU WANT ANSWERS? 100

MAY/JUNE 2016

COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING. PHOTOGRAPHS: IAN LAMOND/ALAMY, EFRAIN PADRO/ALAMY, DESIGN PICS/JOHN DOORNKAMP/GETTY IMAGES, PAUL KENNEDY/GETTY IMAGES, LAMBERT/GETTY IMAGES, E A JANES/AGE FOTOSTOCK, JULIAN LOVE, OLD VISUALS/ALAMY, IQBAL KHATRI/GETTY

4

Which country is most associated with the fried rice dish, nasi goreng?

This i ffunny-looking unny tree, Araucaria araucana, grows in Argentina and Chile. What is its more familiar name?