Win!
A 2-NIGHTS STAY AT THE CENTARA SEAVIEW RESORT KHAO LAK
MAGAZINE ASIA APRIL 2017
Make a splash!
Thailand’s wet & wild Songkran starts here
PLUS Themed hotel rooms to book Nicaragua H Kansai H Perth H Moscow
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SGD 7.50 RM 20 NT 270 THB 195 9 772010 082017
MCI (P) 101/12/2016, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909)
6 MINI GUIDES LEEDS ◆ NORTHERN IRELAND ◆ MADRID ◆ SICILY ◆ SEATTLE ◆ BUENOS AIRES
EDITOR’S LETTER
RAEWYN KOH, ASSOCIATE EDITOR
...we’re excited to present our cover story on Songkran, Thailand’s New Year Festival that is all about having splashing good fun (p52). We’ve also included our Great Escape to Nicaragua with travel secrets to a palmfringed Caribbean beach, dense jungles with smouldering volcanoes and storied colonial towns (p37). Food is also largely on our minds this month, as we list down our top bars in the region (p19) and favourites from Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants (p24), take a cycling trip around Tasmania’s gourmet trails (p25) and feast on MICHELIN star goodness in Singapore (p26). A short trip to Kansai in Japan has also revealed seasonal delectables among other things the region continues to astound us with (p62).
JANUARY 2017
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A 2-NIGHTS STAY AT THE CENTARA SEAVIEW RESORT KHAO LAK
A P R I L 2017
In this issue... Turn to p95
POSTCARDS
Your travel photos and stories 8 Sunset at one of the world’s oldest lighthouses and more images from around the world
GLOBETROTTER
The latest travel news and discoveries 12 It’s time to visit Kazakhstan, best bars in the region and more
EASY TRIPS
Short breaks you can take right now 25 Cycle through gourmet trails in Tasmania 26 Chowing down MICHELIN stars in Singapore 27 The rising sun spectacular in Buriram 28 April showers bring May flowers 30 Review of the Month: Amanjiwo
CITY AT A GLANCE
A low-down of the best on offer 31 Perth is the shared home of the world’s nicest marsupial and the late Heath Ledger, and is not just the lesser known ‘City of Lights’
Which New World city is known as the Great Sultan? p37
GREAT ESCAPE
Your next big trip mapped out 37 Central America’s largest country is surprisingly little-known: discover the historic and natural riches of Nicaragua
FEATURES
More ideas for your bucket-list 52 The people of Thailand are keen on social graces… except at Songkran, the new year festival that features water pistols 62 The remarkable agriculture, local cuisine, architecture and natural beauty pf Kansai continues to enrapture its visitors 70 Moscow underground: a photo tour of the city’s lavishly built subway stations 74 Extraordinary places to stay: Themed Hotels
MINI GUIDES
Themed guides to take with you 83 Try Leeds for your next weekend break 85 Head outdoors in Northern Ireland 87 Tapas and fine-dining in Madrid 89 History come to life in Sicily 91 Head to Seattle for off-beat experiences 93 Argentina’s Buenos Aires on a budget
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Where is it ok to shoot a stranger with a water pistol? p52
Which capital’s metro system opened in 1935? p70
DESTINATION INDEX Antartica Argentina Buenos Aires Australia Kangaroo Island Melbourne Perth Tasmania Brazil Rio de Janeiro Canada Colombia England Leeds Greenland Ilulissat Hong Kong India Calcutta Hong Kong Iceland Vatnajökull India Indonesia Borobudur
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Italy Rome Sicily Japan Kansai Tokyo Kazakhstan Kenya Mongolia Bayan Gobi Mongolia Khatgal Malaysia Nicaragua Northern Ireland Wexford Portugal Óbidos Russia Moscow Singapore Spain Madrid Taiwan Kaoshiung Thailand Bangkok Buriram Chiang Mai USA Las Vegas New York Seattle Swaziland Shewula Taiwan Taipei Tanzania Thailand Koh Samui Krabi Phuket USA Las Vegas New York Seattle Vietnam Halong Bay Ho Chi Minh City
93 18 29 31 25 11 16 15 83 10 19 11 58 57 53 30
Extraordinary themed hotel rooms to book p74
Which region in Japan is also known as Kinki-chiho? p62
15 89 62 24,29 21 14 10 72 8, 30, 54 19 37 85 8 76 70 19, 20, 24, 26, 28, 78 87 78 24 27 52 78 22 91 74 55 74 27 59 25 25 19, 25, 28 22 76
Win!
A 2-NIGHTS STAY AT THE CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT & VILLAS KRABI
Turn to p82
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings Sights
Tours
Drinking
Beaches
Festivals
Entertainment
Activities
Sleeping
Courses
Eating
Shopping Information & Transport
All prices correct at time of going to press. Prices for hotel rooms are for double, en suite rooms with breakfast in low season, unless otherwise stated. Flight prices are for the cheapest return fares, including one piece of hold baggage, unless otherwise stated.
APRIL 2017
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HOW OUR TEAM OF WRITERS MADE THIS ISSUE
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B E L LY O F O S A K A
If there's anything Isabella can take home from Japan, it's anthing edible at Dotonbori and Shinsaibashi, the prime shopping arcades of Osaka. "It is quite ironic that on these busy streets famed for their street food, one would pass up buying snacks from one stall in hopes that the next one would be better. Thank goodness for free samples!" she says. Read more of her Kansai journey on p62.
DISTRIBUTORS Singapore Pansing Distribution Pte Ltd Malaysia MPH Distributors Sdn Bhd Hong Kong Times Publishing (HK) Ltd Thailand Asia Books Co., Ltd Lonely Planet Magazine Asia MCI (P) 101/12/2016, ISSN 2010-0825, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909), is published bi-monthly by Regent Media Pte Ltd under licence from Lonely Planet Global,Inc (part of the Lonely Planet Group). The words “Lonely Planet” and the Lonely Planet symbol are trademarks of Lonely Planet Global,Inc. © Lonely Planet Global,Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. No part of this publication is to be reproduced, stored, transmitted, digitally or otherwise, without the prior consent of the publisher. The information contained herein is accurate at time of printing. Changes may have occurred since this magazine went to print. Regent Media Pte Ltd and its editors will not be held liable for any damages, loss, injury or inconvenience, arising in connection with the contents of the magazine. Regent Media Pte Ltd will not accept responsibility for unsolicited contributions. Printer: KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd (197801823M) Lonely Planet is distributed in Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Thailand and Taiwan.
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JARS O F C L AY
Contributor Esther's stay at Amanjiwo included a deeper insight into Borobudur culture as the hotel is able to arrange for tours around the area. On this excursion, Esther met with local potters who work adjacent to paddy field workers just outside the potters' hut. Find out more in Review of the Month (p30).
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TAIWAN
Often overshadowed by its larger Asian neighbours, this Switzerland-sized island is ripe for discovery: Taipei is a city comfortably in the throes of reinvention, while trips beyond lead to the neck-craning wonder of Taroko Gorge, the traditional pursuits of Tainan, and southern Kenting with its beach-and-jungle vibe.
TRAIN TRAVEL across USA HOTELS IN THE WILD to get close to nature CONQUERING PEAKS around Asia
The ultimate guide to the world’s best breweries Discover the world’s best breweries and craft beer in over 30 countries across five continents
FEATURES
TWO
SINGAPORE BREWERIES
Available in all good book stores. shop.lonelyplanet.com
Postcards
WHERE YOU’VE BEEN AND WHAT YOU’VE SEEN
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POSTCARDS Send your pictures and tell us the stories behind them: email lpmagazine@regentmedia.sg
It’s said that monks first lit a beacon at Hook Head in the 5th century. The current tower was built in the 13th century and visitors can climb the 115 steps for sea views
WEXFORD, IRELAND
Against the tide
I recently visited County Wexford for two days with my partner and our three-year-old daughter. On the second day there, we went to the Hook Peninsula. The idea was to capture the sunset at Hook Lighthouse, one of the oldest lighthouses in the world, and the oldest operating one. It is also one of the most visited places in Ireland. The place is very special, because it is so wild and the waves here are really freaky. Every tenth wave or so was particularly big. I didn’t manage to get a shot of one at its peak, because it felt too dangerous, but I was delighted with my photograph.
Todor Tilev is a fitness professional based in Athlone, Ireland
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POSTCARDS BAYAN GOBI, MONGOLIA
Intent look
Two friends and I took a trekking tour of Mongolia, travelling through steppe, mountain and desert. We sometimes met people and our guide encouraged us to say hello. We quickly understood that we were really welcome. When we visited the family in this shot, we were invited into their yurt, and offered cottage cheese, meat pie and a horse-milk-based tea. I liked everyone’s natural behaviour, with no self-consciousness in front of the camera. The girl, who is leaning against the centre pole of the yurt, was both serious and curious. She dared to get a bit closer to us than the others and explored us in her own way. It was a privilege to take photos there.
The word ‘yurt’ came to English from Turkic languages, but in Mongolian this kind of tent is known as a ‘ger’
Jörg Bongartz works in the financial industry in Berlin, Germany
ILULISSAT, GREENLAND
Dog days
I headed to Greenland last November for the chance to see aurora in the sky and go dogsledding. Despite the sub-zero temperatures, I loved it. In the western town of Ilulissat, I came across some husky dogs, howling like wolves and racing around after each other. Hidden among them in a makeshift kennel were four cute, but wild puppies scrapping with each other. This one had the most mesmerising blue eyes and stayed still long enough for me to take a photo before he bounded off again.
Adil Amin, from Manchester, spent just over a week in Greenland 10
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The husky is a working dog in Greenland – there are almost as many in Ilulissat, population 4,800, as there are people
POSTCARDS CALCUTTA, INDIA
In the heart of Calcutta It was amongst this hustle and bustle of the market that I chanced upon an old man cutting hair at the corner of one of the myriad alleys. The pair seemed completely at ease and were in fact enjoying an animated conversation. Later, I spoke to the barber and it turned out that his family had been cutting hair for the last four generations at that very same spot! In fact, this customer’s grandfather had his hair cut by the grandfather of this very barber, some 80 years ago! Keen to get in on the action, I too requested for a quick cut but he was booked for the day. Oh well, guess I’d have to make do with just the picture!
Other than barbers, Culcutta is one of the top cities in India for street food
Kunal Gupta is a marketing professional who enjoys escaping to mountains and diving into oceans any chance he gets
RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL
Sun’s up
My wife and I spent part of our honeymoon in Rio, during Carnival. It was the maddest week of our lives – Rio was buzzing and the Sambadrome was more colourful and electric than we could have imagined. After a night of dancing, our taxi dropped us at the foot of the winding road to our pousada in bohemian Santa Teresa. We were struck by the area’s stillness and tranquillity; this photo takes me back to wandering up without a care in the world. We plan to go back, next time with our baby, Jude.
Ollie Govett is a charity marketing manager based in Belfast
Santa Teresa’s crumbling mansions date from the 19th century, when industrialists got rich on a coffee boom APRIL 2017
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Globetrotter A WORLD OF TRAVEL NEWS AND DISCOVERIES
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All eyes on
Kazakhstan It’s now easier than ever to visit this particular ’stan after the country introduced visa-free travel for Singapore and Malaysia. But should you? Emphatically yes, says Lonely Planet destination editor Megan Eaves: ‘Kazakhstan’s greatest draw is its incredible natural scenery – it’s a country the size of Western Europe with the population of the Netherlands, so there’s lots of open space. The country lies on the ancient Silk Road, and you can get a taste of that history in the city of Turkistan – a 14th-century Sufi pilgrimage site.’ You can’t go to Kazakhstan without seeing the new capital, Astana, and its quirky architecture, such as the Khan Shatyr Entertainment Centre (pictured). Says Megan, ‘Highlights include the Bayterek Tower, meant to embody a folktale about a mythical bird who laid a golden egg on top of a tall poplar tree.’
Lonely Planet’s Central Asia guide (US$34.99) features a section on Kazakhstan; or download the individual chapter (US$4.95; shop. lonelyplanet.com).
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GLOBETROTTER
Pursuing perhaps the last territory on Earth untouched by modern art, March sees the first Antarctic Biennale. One hundred artists and architects will take part aboard the Akademik Ioffe. The ship acts as a floating studio and exhibition space, but participants will also install temporary artworks among the icebergs. Follow their progress at antarcticbiennale.com.
NEW SAFARI EXPERIENCE A luxury camp opening this month in central Kenya will be the first in East Africa to offer on-foot tracking of the endangered black rhino. The animals are returning to the area after a 30-year absence, thanks to relocation efforts by conservationists and the local Samburu people, so guests at Saruni Rhino will get a first-hand perspective on a rare wildlife good news story, as well as contributing to the species’ preservation (from US$643pppn incl rhino walking safari; sarunisamburu.com). 14
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GLOBETROTTER
Celebrating 50 years since the publication of One Hundred Years of Solitude, Colombian author Gabriel García Márquez’s most famous book, Amakuna is launching a tour of the locations that shaped his life and work. The trip takes in colourful Cartagena (pictured) as well as his birthplace, the pretty town of Aracataca and the rainforests of Tayrona National Park, home to the elusive Kogi people. The tribe’s claim to be able to transform into jaguars and other animals is thought to have inspired Márquez’s use of magical realism (10-night trip from US$4,0555pp excl international flights; amakuna.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: PERSEFONI PHOTO IMAGES/GETTY, ULF ANDERSEN/ GETTY IMAGES, PATRICK MILLAR, DANITA DELIMONT STOCK/AWL, SPONDYLOLITHESIS/ISTOCK/GETTY, MANS BEREG PHOTOGRAPHY. PREVIOUS PAGE: OLEG IVASTOV/500PX
Also just out is the Art, Music and Literature in Moscow tour, which visits the houses where Tolstoy and Chekhov lived and worked (five nights from US$1,493pp; kirkerholidays.com). Inntravel’s new self-guided walking break The Hardy Way takes in the Wessex locations loved by fans of Victorian novelist Thomas Hardy (six nights from US$740pp; inntravel.co.uk).
NEW HOTEL
Bargain beds
Designer digs in the Eternal City for under US$90? The prospect is now a reality with the opening of Generator Rome. The ‘poshtel’ features dorms and double rooms much more stylish than the price tag would suggest. The social rooms are where the property comes into its own, though. There’s a rooftop terrace with views over Roman rooftops, a slick bar lit by Chinese lanterns, and regular DJ sessions in the lobby. ● Dorm room (sleeps up to four) from US$23, private double room from US$86; generatorhostels.com
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Happy birthday, Canada
TRAVEL KNITWEAR
We salute Sam Barsky, whose landmark-inspired jumpers recently went viral. The Baltimore resident knits the designs – featuring locations from Stonehenge to the Golden Gate Bridge – before visiting the famous sights for a matching snap (facebook.com/colorknit). 16
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LOVE HATE
GEOLOCATING HOTPANTS
Revealed at the Las Vegas Consumer Electronics Show, this is the silliest wearable tech we’ve ever come across. The shorts connect to a smartphone via Bluetooth, helping wearers find their way with a timely vibration. We’ll stick to a map, thanks (spinali-design.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: TONYLANIRO/ISTOCK/GETTY, SAM BARSKY/@COLORKNIT, VALENTINARR/ISTOCK/ GETTY, COURTESY OF TASCHEN
canada is celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2017, and March marks the start of major festivities in the nation’s capital (ottawa2017.ca). That’s the main reason Canada was the top country in Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2017. Ottawa Welcomes the World will showcase the nation’s multicultural diversity with a series of musical and artistic performances, plus food tasting events, against a backdrop of stately architecture such as the Canadian Parliament buildings and Château Laurier hotel (pictured, left and right). Parks Canada – guardian of the nation’s natural wonders and heritage – is also marking the milestone with free access to all of its territories throughout 2017 (pc.gc.ca). With a bewildering 222 national parks, historic sites and marine conservation areas to choose from, why not start at the beginning? Banff National Park was the first to be protected, back in 1885.
NEW BOOK
GLOBETROTTER
MAD FOR MANGA 100 Manga Artists (US$16; Taschen) charts the reach of Japan’s popular comic art form, which has found influence everywhere from mainstream advertising to the film industry. Offering an A-Z of all the major manga talents, the book includes plenty of examples of their work, the distinctively wide-eyed characters popping up on almost every page. MANGA HIGHLIGHTS IN JAPAN Kyoto International Manga Museum This former elementary school has a vast collection of comics on display – a decent number of which have been translated into English – and hosts weekend sessions where visitors can have their portrait done by a manga artist (kyotomm.jp/en). Manga drawing class, Yokohama Inside Japan Tours can organise tuition at a well-regarded animation school in this seaside city just south of Tokyo, if booked as part of a longer tour package with them. Guests will be taught alongside Japanese students of the form, and have the unique opportunity to check out their designs as well as creating their own frames (insidejapantours.com). Studio Ghibli Museum, Tokyo Anime is essentially manga in motion and Studio Ghibli, maker of films including Spirited Away, is the undisputed master of the art. Its museum in the western suburbs of Tokyo features original sketches and a giant cat-bus like the one featured in My Neighbour Totoro (ghiblimuseum.jp).
LOCAL EXPERIENCES
Airbnb The king of the homeowner rental market is now offering experiences hosted by locals – including some one-off food tours. Its initial launch of 500 trips covers 12 cities worldwide – from two days in Detroit exploring the roots of American classics like hotdogs and deep-pan pizza (US$184pp; airbnb.com/experiences/558), to a two-day truffle-hunting masterclass embarking from Florence (US$179pp; airbnb.com/ experiences/266). APRIL 2017
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GLOBETROTTER
FRESH HORIZONS
A recently opened walking trail combines the very best of Australia’s big landscapes and indigenous wildlife. Covering 38 miles over five days, the Kangaroo Island Wilderness Trail provides possum- and roo-spotting opportunites before emerging onto the remote coast of this large island off South Australia (kangarooislandwildernesstrail.sa.gov.au).
SOMETHING TO DECLARE: Wake up to the joy of the sleeper train
When was the last time you woke up and didn’t know precisely where in the world you were? It’s a strange sensation, generally experienced by people who are hung-over, kidnapped, senile or sleeping around (or on very rare occasions a combination of the above). But in no circumstances is it more exquisite than when you wake up as a passenger on a sleeper train: when you reach from your berth to open the thin curtains – like a present on Christmas morning – and
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through bleary eyes witness dawn breaking over the Swiss Alps; or morning sunshine glittering on the South China Sea; or rush hour traffic in a city whose name you don’t yet know. Being transported across continents in your own tiny capsule makes the sleeper train the world’s greatest mode of transport. I’m a big fan: I’ve fallen asleep to a choir of snorers on a Vietnamese sleeper. I’ve snuggled up in warm sheets on the Trans-Siberian while the temperature outside the window slipped below -40°C. I’ve even had a Serbian border guard boot me out my berth and take me off the train
for questioning (all while wearing my jimjams). Sadly in Europe, at least, the sleeper train is becoming an endangered species. France just axed almost all of its sleeper services, following similar moves in Germany and Italy in recent years. Abundant budget airline routes, faster daytime trains and high running costs are – like the passengers on Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express – one-by-one sticking the knife into the sleeper train. But there is still no more stylish way to travel. James Bond could not have seduced women on the Megabus. Hercule Poirot
GLOBETROTTER
(Editor’s Pick)
Regional Bars Missed the Singapore Cocktail Festival on 16-21 March? Try out these alternate drinking spots that are available all year round.
ILLUSTRATION: MUTI-FOLIO ART. PHOTOGRAPHS: DEPARTMENT FOR ENVIRONMENT, WATER AND NATURAL RESOUCES, JOHN THYS/AFP/GETTY, NORBERT SCANELLA/ ALAMY, PASCAL SAEZ/ALAMY
SINGAPORE
could not have sleuthed for murderers pacing the central aisle on a Ryanair flight. And there’s a reason they don’t set Chanel No.5 ads on the 9.36 Great Western service to Didcot Parkway. And not only is it more stylish, the sleeper train can even work out more economical than the plane. For example: it costs about £60 to catch a flight from London to Inverness, which entails nearly two hours fidgeting in the air, two hours faffing about in airports and an hour or so hunting for a hotel that will probably charge you another £60+ for a bed. By contrast the Caledonian Sleeper service from London
Euston starts from £80 but provides thrills which are priceless. Eating lamb casserole in the dining carriage among the Chiltern Hills. Enjoying a nightcap at Rugby. Falling asleep to the clatter of the rails at Crewe (waking briefly for a nighttime wee at the edge of the Lake District). Dreaming among the windswept moors of the Borders. And waking up to be handed a full Scottish breakfast by an attendant – well rested, well fed, an hour from your destination and still not precisely sure whereabouts you are.* *Probably the Cairngorms.
Oliver Smith is our senior features writer and regularly runs very small sleeper trains on his model railway layout.
At Artemis, your classic cocktails will not taste the same after Rico Daeang (Bar Manager) shakes them up with his precision, craftsmanship and fresh perspectives. Also, catch an alternate view of Singapore’s Central Business District 40 stories up the newly built CapitaGreen tower (artemisgrill.com.sg).
MALAYSIA Locker & Loft is a brand new speakeasy in Malaysia that features locally-inspired cocktails and food at great prices. Apprently Kelapa Rock (a coconut-water infused cocktail) and The Baldi (a sharing punch bowl) is to die for (lockerandloft.com).
HONG KONG Tucked away on Lyndhurtst Terrace in the heart of Central, the late-night restaurant and bar captures the essence of a Japanese izakaya with its Japanese-Peruvian inspired food and cocktails. Each visit to TokyoLima brings about a unique experience (tokyolima.hk). APRIL 2017
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Making waves at Inle Lake
A
s far as lakes go, Inle Lake is one of Myanmar’s – if not Southeast Asia’s – most anticipated destinations in recent years and the hype surrounding it is definitely justified. Inle Lake has been designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and is one of Asia’s and the world’s, most exciting tourism destinations as travellers start to rediscover the beauty of Myanmar, a country that had been plagued by political unrest for so long. Inle Lake is a serene one that is fringed by marshes and floating gardens and it breathes with culture from the Buddhist temples by the water’s edge and Intha fishermen that make a living within the lake. Surrounding the scenic region are also hills that are home to Burmese minorities who descend from their villages to the bustling markets near Inle Lake. This buzzing region is where the new Best Western Thousand Island Hotel has positioned itself. The newest Best Western property in Myanmar sits on the riverfront of Nyaung Shwe, the city north of Inle Lake that acts as the main trade and transportation gateway to Inle. Best Western Thousand Island Hotel provides a total of 48 rooms, all of which are equipped with comfortable beds, free WiFi, flat screen TVs with international channels, and other amenities. In terms of 20
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facilities, guests can expect highlights like a relaxing soak in the hot tub after a day of exploring the region, or enjoying a game of billiards with friends at the billiard room. For refreshments, spend mealtimes at the riverfront café that has indoor and outdoor seating to enjoy views of the lively activity down by the river. Otherwise, the perfect place to end the day is at the rooftop bar. The bar serves up freshly made cocktails and offers a spectacular view of the sun setting over the Shan Hills in the distance. From Best Western Thousand Island, there are a number of attractions near Nyaung Shwe. The town was once the capital of an important Shan kingdom and the former haw (palace) of the last saopha (sky prince) can be visited at the Cultural Museum. The imposing and melancholic structure is mostly empty with the exception of a few dusty displays but the museum is still worth a visit to photograph the stately structure. Another place to visit near Best Western Thousand Island is Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung, the most photographed monastery in Nyaung Shwe. Its characteristic oval windows are what attract hundreds of travellers to the monastery as they give a certain voyeuristic glimpse into the lives of the monks who live there. The small monastery consists of two buildings, one where the monks sleep and eat, and one
main congregation hall that has been made entirely of beautifully carved wood and contains a number of Buddha statues. One of the best times to visit is just before noon when the monks gather in the temple to meditate. The monks welcome tourists to take photographs, as long as their space is respected and tourists take care not to disrupt any ceremonial rituals. There’s even a yard outside the temple where the monks spend their recreational time playing football and socialising with each other. Best Western Thousand Island Hotel is the international hotel group’s third property in Myanmar, joining the Best Western Green Hill Hotel and Best Western Chinatown Hotel, both of which are located in downtown Yangon.
WORDS: RAEWYN KOH. PHOTOGRAPHS: FLICKR / SYEEFA AKA RUZI95, FLICKR / CLAY GILLILAND
Best Western Hotels & Resorts has arrived in one of Southeast Asia’s most alluring and enchanting destinations in Myanmar’s Shan State
A D V E R T I S E M E N T F E AT U R E
For more information and to make a reservation, visit bestwesternasia.com APRIL 2017
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GLOBETROTTER
QUIRKY LUXURY AT OAKWOOD STUDIOS SINGAPORE
The Oakwood recently added one more property to its award-winning portfolio of 33 properties in Asia. Oakwood Studios, just off Orchard Road in Singapore, is a collection of 98 serviced apartment suites. The serviced apartments just won Best Interior Design at the recent Serviced Apartment Awards 2017. Kitsch meets chic at Oakwood Studios, where bold shades of red complement the stylish contemporary interiors to welcome residents to the lavish property. Unique to Oakwood Studios are the curated spaces, such as an open kitchen and outdoors garden terrace and movable furniture around the property that allow for flexible work and meeting spaces or just a personalised niche for one. Oakwood Studios has also partnered with Samsung, which gives guests access to smartphones that double as an apartment key and comes with complimentary data and local calls. oakwoodasia.com/singapore
THE WHITBY OPENS IN NYC
PARADISE IN HALONG BAY March this year saw the launch of the most luxurious boat Halong Bay has ever set its eyes on. The Paradise Elegance cruise ship was launched by Paradise, the leading providers of luxury hospitality services in Vietnam. Measuring 200ton in steel, 61m long and 13m wide, the cruiser is by far the biggest overnight option available within the UNESCO World Heritage site. Passengers onboard have the option of continuing the cruise towards other famed natural attractions around Vietnam, or participate in land excursions around caves, islands and fishing villages. There will be a second Paradise Elegance cruise ship that is expected to launch in June 2017. paradisevietnam.com
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WORDS: JOSMIN ONG & AKANKSHA NAIR PHOTOGRAPHS: OAKWOODASIA, THE WHITBY, PARADISEVIETNAM
The Whitby will be Firmdale Hotels’ second outing in New York City that will be fitted into the heart of SoHo situated on West 56th Street and 5th Avenue. The Whitby has only 86 rooms and suites that have been individually designed in Kit Kemp’s colourful and carefree style through the use of pattern, texture, and original artworks. Set over 16 stories, each guestroom also boasts floor-to-ceiling windows, and some have private terraces with views over the city skyline. Within the boutique hotel is The Whitby Bar that has a 30ft pewter bar and gray oak floors. It serves all-day dinig from a frequently changing menu created by Head Chef Anthony Paris. firmdalehotels.com
NICARAGUA
Great Escape N I C A R A G U A
From the churning waves of the Pacific in the west to the blue lagoons of the Caribbean in the east, Nicaragua is Central America at its most colourful: tropical islands and dense jungle, smouldering volcanoes and storied colonial towns @OliSmithTravel l PHOTOGRAPHS PHILIP LEE HARVEY
@PhilipLeeHarvey
G R E AT E S C A P E
WORDS OLIVER SMITH
Nicaragua’s carfree Little Corn Island lies in the Caribbean Sea and was once a regular haunt for pirates
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Plan your trip 1
2
Wonder at strange legends and peer deep into Nicaragua’s volcanic heart on the mysterious island of Ometepe (p44).
3
Pick through the jungle and explore a hidden world in the backwaters of the San Juan River (p46).
4
Slow down your life and play at being a castaway on the peaceful Caribbean sands of Little Corn Island (p48).
5
Buy some poetry from a local or lose yourself in classic Latin American verse in the bohemian university city of León (p50).
MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: SAM ARMSTRONG/GETTY, PHILIP LEE HARVEY, FRANK SCHWERE/GETTY, ANNIE SHUSTRIN/TRAVELSHUS.COM
Admire fine colonial Spanish architecture while wandering the tree-lined avenues of the country’s oldest city, Granada (p42).
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NICARAGUA
ON THE ROAD
Read…
Augusto C Sandino Airport in the capital Managua is the main hub for Nicaragua.The best way to get to Managua is on United Airlines from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur and will include two stopovers in either San Francisco or Narita, Tokyo and Houston (from US$1,714; united. com). Many travellers visit Nicaragua as part of a Central American overland trip, with chaotic but functional border crossing points from neighbouring Honduras and Costa Rica. There is a US$10 arrival tax, paid in cash on arrival. The US$35 departure tax is normally included in the airline ticket.
HOW TO GET AROUND
Catching domestic flights can make sense in Nicaragua, particularly if you’re travelling the long distance between the east and west coasts. Domestic carrier La Costeña flies from its hub at Managua to – among others – Big Corn Island, Ometepe and San Carlos (Managua–Corn Island from US$162 rtn; lacostena. online.com.ni). Colourful old US school buses form the backbone of the public transport network, divided into express services (expresos) and local stopping routes (ordinarios). You pay when you’re on board – just be insistent your luggage stays in the bus and doesn’t get put on the roof. Expect to pay around US$0.90 per hour travelled. Car hire is available at Managua airport (from US$30 per day; hertz.com), but be aware road conditions vary wildly across the country: poor surfaces on the Caribbean coast mean it’s best to take public transport here.
HOW LONG TO SPEND
Visiting all the locations featured in our Great Escape should take around three weeks. Nonetheless, you could easily spend well over a month exploring Nicaragua. To extend a trip, consider visiting the artists’ hangout of the Solentiname Islands in Lake
Nicaragua, or the surfers’ haunt of San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast. Putting the Corn Islands aside, Nicaragua’s Caribbean coast rarely features on tourist itineraries and has a fascinating culture.
WHAT TO BUDGET
Buy…
Balsa wood carvings; native to the Solentiname Islands but found across Nicaragua, these traditional crafts come in all shapes and sizes – most common are birds.
By Central American standards, Nicaragua is a very affordable destination. Rarely would you pay more than US$75 per night for a luxury hotel, and US$12.50 for a top-end meal. If you’re on a budget, roadside meals can be had for around US$2.50 and simple guesthouses booked for about US$12.50 per night.
Drink…
Flor de Caña; one of Latin America’s best rums, available in white and dark varieties, and aged up to 25 years.
WHEN TO GO
Nicaragua’s high season follows dry weather from December to April, with price rises in some touristy areas like Granada and León. Low season coincides with the rains from May to October, though there are often spells of sunshine between showers.
WHO CAN HELP
Central American specialist Journey Latin America offers a range of guided group tours and individual itineraries in Nicaragua, staying in mid-range to upmarket hotels and lodges. A 14-day trip featuring all of the locations and accommodation options in our article starts from US$3,442, including all flights, excursions and local transport. There are also 18-day group tours from US$2,854 (journeylatinamerica.co.uk).
Discuss…
The Nicaraguan Canal; a controversial planned shipping lane to rival that of nearby Panama, set to come with a huge environmental cost (to find out more see rainforest-rescue.org).
Play…
Baseball; where the national sport of its neighbouring countries is football, Nicaraguans have had a penchant for hitting home runs since the sport was brought here in the 19th century.
HOW TO PLAN
Lonely Planet’s Nicaragua (US$24.99) has more on the country; download single chapters at lonelyplanet. com (US$4.95).
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HOW TO GET THERE
The Jaguar Smile, Salman Rushdie’s book about travelling in Nicaragua in the 1980s, in the aftermath of the leftist Sandinista movement sweeping to power.
Eat…
The national dish of rice and black beans, often served with scrambled eggs at breakfast.
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The San Juan River winds through the Indio MaĂz Biological Reserve, which features trees up to 50 metres tall and 500 years old 40
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Follow in the wake of pirates and adventurers
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1. Granada
Wander the wide cobblestone boulevards and linger in the churches of Nicaragua’s phoenix-like colonial city
F
OUND IN POCKETS, CASH tills and stuffed down sofas across Nicaragua is the 100 córdoba note (about £2.50), showing the Cathedral of Granada, presiding over the nation’s most handsome city. Turn the note over and you’ll see the other famous symbol of Granada – a horse-drawn carriage and its grinning driver, clip-clopping along the city’s cobbled streets. The horses, the carriage and the grin all belong to Mauricio Sanchez – himself part of the long tradition of Granada carriage drivers. One day Mauricio looked up from a handful of change to see his own, moustached face smiling back at him, the depiction copied from a photo taken by a tourist a few years ago. Carriage driver Mauricio Sanchez
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‘Granada is the city Nicaraguans are most proud of,’ he explains, parked among the laurel trees in the central square, scouting for customers to take on an afternoon tour. ‘It is the oldest city in Central America, and it has a history that makes everyone feel romantic. Sometimes, when I have people in the back of my carriage, I wish it didn’t make them quite so romantic!’ Whether seen on foot or from the back of a carriage, Granada’s architectural harmony is apt to prompt profound reactions; a refined antidote to the sprawling megacities of Central America. Jumping on the carriage, the wheels soon rattle beneath the duck-egg-blue façade of the Iglesia San Francisco and the off-white Iglesia de la Merced – churches both originally built in the 1500s, their foundations laid not so long after Columbus spied the New World through his telescope. Inside, people shuffle up creaking staircases to the top of bell towers for views over the rooftops of the city: villas with shuttered windows, courtyards with gurgling fountains and old tobacco factories in the distance. The carriage passes squares where locals picnic on lunches of cassava and pork rinds served at little kiosks, sitting beside statues of Nicaraguan poets with sparrows perched on their learned heads. Rather surprisingly, Granada has the moniker ‘The Great Sultan’ – the Spanish settlers intending to build a tribute to the city’s Moorish namesake over the Atlantic in the Old World. But what’s even more surprising is that Granada exists at all. In 1665, Welsh pirate Henry Morgan sailed to Granada on one especially swashbuckling raid, paddling canoes up the San Juan River by night and sneaking across Lake Nicaragua. He did what any self-respecting pirate would do when confronted with a city of exquisite beauty after a long, exhausting and miserable journey: he burnt it to the ground. There followed three more pirate raids along similar lines, and a conquest by maverick American adventurer William Walker in the 1850s – a man who proclaimed himself President of Nicaragua, and, when this didn’t go down so well, left the embers of the city with a sign reading ‘Here was Granada’. By the time Mauricio has set out on his
last trot, the scorching afternoon heat gives way to a gentle breeze. Evening crowds stroll beneath the wrought-iron lampposts and acacia trees, beside the peeling stuccoed façades of barbers’ shops and Granada’s long-closed railway station, where steam engines have been rusting at the platform for decades. Games of baseball strike up by the shores of Lake Nicaragua and the last rays of sun disappear from the highest spires of the city. Morgan, Walker and various others failed to appreciate that Granada’s habit of getting destroyed was matched only by its habit for rebuilding itself – bigger and more beautiful than before. From Granada, it’s an hour’s bus ride to San Jorge to catch the hour-long ferry to Ometepe Island.
Essentials
Hotel Dario is a colonial-era hotel with an imposing mint-green front just south of the cathedral. Rooms with ceiling fans and timber furniture are arranged around two elegant Andalucian-style courtyards (from US$81; hoteldario.com). Horse-drawn carriages can be hired from the Parque Central – an hour-long tour takes in all the churches and the waterfront park by Lake Nicaragua (from US$12.50).
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Clockwise from top left The 1915 Cathedral of Granada; locals chat outside a hairdresser’s; the city’s characteristic pastel-coloured buildings; a vividly painted statue of the Virgin Mary
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Ojo de Agua is one of Ometepe’s natural water holes, and is popular with swimmers 44
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NICARAGUA The active volcano Concepción, shrouded in cloud – it last erupted in 2010
2. Ometepe
S
TANDING UNDER A PICTURE of the Archangel Michael, Captain Donald Jarquin rests his hands on the tiller of the ferry El Rey del Cocibolca, scanning the horizon beyond the steel-grey waves. Some way ahead, two mountains rise leviathan-like from the water, their summits crowned with wispy haloes of cloud. ‘Ometepe is almost a different country to the rest of Nicaragua,’ explains island native Donald, throttling the engine. ‘People are different; the landscape is different – even the volcanoes are different.’ Nicaragua has dozens of volcanoes, from soaring peaks to squat little lumps of lava. None have shaped the country’s landscape as exquisitely as Concepción and Maderas, two volcanoes that surged out of boiling water long ago and joined to form the island of Ometepe (meaning ‘two mountains’). This mini lost world has long been a retreat for those wishing to escape the busy cities along the lake’s shore. Ferry-loads of Nicaraguans arrive at weekends to hike to remote waterfalls, kayak lagoons and paddle the pebbly shallows of the lake, stalked by the twin summits of the volcanoes wherever they go. In truth, Ometepe has always possessed an almost mystical power over the Nicaraguan imagination. Aztec settlers from Mexico thought they had discovered the promised land when they saw the island – they were proved right when they found its fertile volcanic soil yielded giant crops. Following a footpath along the island’s
southern shore, Ometepe today still seems a place of almost Eden-like abundance. Gardens of mangoes, watermelons, chillies and bananas shade trails that meander between the lakeside bungalows, passing stacked sacks of coffee beans and tangled tree roots as they go. Pre-Columbian legends have thrived here too. Before long, the path reaches Laguna Charco Verde: a little emerald-green lagoon mirroring the pyramid of Concepción, kingfishers swooping along its shores and spiny cedar trees growing along its banks. The waters are said to conceal an entrance to the underworld, guarded by a swimming witch who barters for mortal souls (and who also has a penchant for turning them into farmyard animals). It is not the only legend on Ometepe: one story tells of a little stream whose waters are said to trigger an instant sex change – though this doesn’t deter the women who come here to wash their laundry. There are geological hazards as well as mythical ones on Ometepe. It’s not long before the trail reaches a yellow sign reading ‘Ruta de evacuación’ – with regular eruptions of Concepción, the government occasionally orders islanders to evacuate (though they struggle to persuade a good portion of the 30,000 inhabitants to leave). By the time the last ferry hauls into the docks, Lake Nicaragua sparkles in the afternoon sunshine, and the twin clouded summits blush in the slanting light. Kayakers on Lake Nicaragua haul their
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Set a course for an island of twin smouldering volcanoes, black-sand beaches and ancient legends, set in Central America's largest lake boats onto the black-sand beaches, and groups of friends sip rum at ramshackle beachfront bars. One by one, lights from distant villages emerge, twinkling like fireflies in the dusk. For now, at least, worries of scheming witches, volcanic annihilation and accidental gender reassignment could not be farther from anyone’s minds. Back in San Jorge, it’s a seven-hour drive to San Carlos at the head of the San Juan River. Alternatively, board regular buses for a two-hour trip north to Managua and catch a plane.
Essentials
Totoco Eco-lodge has seven thatched bungalows on the slopes of Maderas. The restaurant serves simple but satisfying Nicaraguan food (from US$87; totoco.com.ni). The ferry from San Jorge on the mainland to the port of Moyogalpa takes one hour (from US$1.50; ometepenicaragua.com). The Laguna Charco Verde is set in the Charco Verde nature reserve, close to the town of San José del Sur (admission US$0.60).
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Rosa Amelia Herrera lives with her husband Cristóbal on the banks of the San Juan
3. San Juan River
Follow the route of pirates and Gold Rush pioneers into the heart of the jungle
I
T IS JUST BEFORE SUNRISE ON the San Juan River, and the sounds of the jungle stir like an orchestra tuning up. There is the percussive rattle of cicadas and the staccato putter of a motorboat, setting the reflection of the moon on the water trembling as it departs. There are the whoops of howler monkeys invisible in the high canopy, and the deep bass gulps of caimans, wallowing in the reed-strewn shallows by the banks. The real maestro, however, is the river itself – foaming over rapids, making the timbers of riverside stilt houses groan mournfully with the quickening of the current. What the Amazon is to Brazil, the San Juan is to Nicaragua – a 119-mile stretch of water journeying east from Lake Nicaragua to the coastal lagoons of the Caribbean Sea, forming the border with Costa Rica for its final leagues. And midway along is the Indio Maíz Biological Reserve – an area of virgin rainforest more than 1,500 miles square, in whose remoter reaches the paw prints of jaguars, ocelots and pumas can be found. Taking a guided trek through its muddy footpaths in the half light of early morning, it seems everything is constructed on a superlative scale. Giant cobwebs cling to towering almond trees, which might have been saplings when conquistadors first set foot in the New World. Minuscule poisondart frogs hop about the ferns, their backs coloured luminous reds and yellows. It is a place with a dense profusion of life in whichever direction you happen to look: capuchin monkeys swing from the creepers, A cormorant rests on the banks of the San Juan
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wild orchids burst through the leaf litter, the rustle of displaced foliage hints at some unseen creature escaping the attention of approaching people. Only occasionally does the rumble of river traffic on the San Juan rise above the clamour of the jungle. Without any surfaced roads nearby, the San Juan remains an important connection between Nicaragua’s Spanish-speaking west and its Creole-speaking Caribbean coast – but long ago this was the only route into Nicaragua. In the 19th century – when the Wild West was still wild and Panama was canal-less – steamboats carried Gold Rush prospectors travelling from New York to California via the San Juan River. In the more distant past, pirates from the Atlantic rowed upstream through the jungle to plunder Nicaragua’s Spanish cities. ‘I am so used to the river, I don’t even hear the sound of it,’ says Rosa Amelia Herrera, swinging in her rocking chair and watching cargo boats slip past. Aged 84, she is one of the oldest residents of the riverside village of El Castillo, and has lived in the same stilt house – built by her husband Cristóbal – since she was 22. ‘All of my children were born above the current. When I don’t hear the sound of the river, I miss it.’
From San Carlos, it’s a six-hour bus trip to the capital Managua, from which there are regular flights to Great Corn Island. From there, it's a half-hour boat ride to Little Corn.
Essentials
Luna del Rio in El Castillo has five simple timber-panelled rooms, the best of which have balconies looking out over the San Juan River. Guests can eat excellent fish dishes on the terrace (from US$56; riosanjuannicaragua@yahoo.es). The main point of access for El Castillo is the town of San Carlos at the source of the San Juan River. From here, two daily panga boats take around 90 minutes (US$6, departing 6.30am and 10am). It’s possible to arrange half-day guided tours of the Indio Maíz Biological Reserve from the tourist office in El Castillo (from US$56).
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A view across the San Juan River from La Fortaleza, a 17thcentury fortress built to defend Granada from pirate raids APRIL 2017
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Jovan Emanuel with his djembe. Left Hammocks are the favoured way to relax on Little Corn. Right Bicycle is the ideal way to get around
4. Little Corn Island
Doze in a hammock, go beachcombing on white-sand shores and abandon your Spanish phrasebook on Nicaragua’s most serene Caribbean island
N
ICARAGUA IS A COUNTRY with beguiling geography, from its two vast lakes to the chain of volcanoes along its spine. This means that someone studying a map probably won’t notice two punctuation-sized dots of land off its east coast: Little Corn Island and Big Corn Island. Upon disembarking at Big Corn airport, with its arrivals hall not much bigger than a bus stop, it becomes clear that this is a place that moves to its own tempo. The language turns from hurried Spanish to the slow, mellow tones of Creole. The quick shuffling of Latin American pop music switches to the gentle bounce of reggae on the radios. And, on taking the half-hour ferry ride from the quays of Big Corn to the shores of Little Corn, the pace of life shifts from ‘slow’ to the last rung above ‘stationary’. For though Little Corn technically counts as Nicaraguan soil, this is a bona fide Caribbean island. ‘Little Corn is a place where everyone says good morning and good evening to each other,’ says Winston Downs, aka Mr Winnie, mayor of Little Corn Island (population: 1,200, cars: 0), sheltering from a brief rain shower inside the island’s little community centre. ‘We don’t need roads here because roads only make people go faster. Why would we need to go faster here?’ Being barely two miles long and one mile wide, Little Corn Island is a place whose 48
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footpaths should be explored with strategic slowness. An amble in any direction will, within 15 minutes, see visitors arriving at a white-sand beach. The beach will, in all probability, be dotted with driftwood and coconut husks, tangled nets and beached fishing boats that haven’t known the splash of the Caribbean for generations. Very likely there will be people horizontal in hammocks slung from palm trees. At the centre of the island is a baseball field where horses graze, with a grandstand that – some say – is big enough to seat the entire population of Little Corn. At the southern end is the ‘Village’, which, being the only settlement on the island, doesn’t require the formality of being named. It is a place only slightly less peaceful than the rest of Little Corn: dancehall music plays on a Friday night, gospel rings out on a Sunday morning. The clink of pool games sound from beachfront bars around sunset and, at irregular intervals, a sudden cacophony of drumming comes from a nearby house. ‘Sometimes we play our drums for hours without stopping,’ says Jovan Emanuel. He’s sitting on his porch playing a djembe – an instrument made from almond wood and taut goat skin, common to Nicaragua’s Caribbean coast. ‘Little Corn inspires me. When I touch the drum, I feel a kind of lightness inside me, I feel completely weightless. But, however loud we play, we never get complaints from the neighbours.’
Back on Big Corn, catch a return flight to Managua; from here it’s a two-hour bus ride to León.
Essentials
Yemaya resort sits on the northern edge of Little Corn Island close to the beautiful Otto Beach, with cabins set in landscaped gardens. There’s an excellent on-site restaurant serving Caribbean dishes, regular yoga classes and private boats to shuttle guests to and from the airport on Big Corn Island (bungalows from US$286, sleeping two; littlecornhotel.com). Little Corn Island is a 40-minute boat ride from Big Corn Island (US$5). There’s excellent diving in the lagoons around Little Corn Island – Dive Little Corn is among the reputable outfits in the Village (open-water PADI course US$286; divelittlecorn.net).
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Little Corn is blessed with numerous palm-fringed beaches – coconut production was the island’s primary industry for most of the 20th century APRIL 2017
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5. León
Head to Nicaragua’s original capital city to read deep into the country’s poetic soul
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T IS GRADUATION DAY IN León, and students gather outside the whitewashed face of the cathedral. In the cool reaches of the nave, parents mingle with tutors, watched over by marble saints and relics brought across the Atlantic from Spain half a millennium ago. Outside, loudspeakers turned up to seismic volume blast pop music across squares full of revellers, rattling the iron shutters of shop fronts and threatening to loosen the terracotta roof tiles above. Like The Godfather Part II, The Empire Strikes Back and Terminator 2: Judgment Day, a sequel can surpass the original – and this is most definitely the case with the Nicaraguan city of León. Founded in 1524 as the country’s first capital, León was initially renowned as a pit of Old Testament-style vice – ruled by tyrants with an appetite for money grabbing and massacring indigenous locals. And sure enough, in true Old Testament-style, León was destroyed and buried under ash by a volcanic eruption in 1610. León ‘take two’ was relocated some 15 miles up the road, and four centuries later lives a far happier life as a bookish and boisterous university city. Its colonial architecture is more ramshackle than Granada’s: its pastel-coloured bungalows topped with a tangled mass of telephone lines, its streets adorned with satirical political graffiti. Dotted about the city are bullet holes and bomb damage sustained during the Nicaraguan Revolution in the 1970s – when León’s students led a rebellion against the repressive Somoza dictatorship. Portraits of revolutionary martyrs are hung proudly on walls across the city, annual parades commemorate demonstrations in which students were massacred, and the small Museum of the Revolution pays tribute to the lost. Through the day, locals pick their way around markets piled high with fruit 50
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and vegetables. Evenings see students idling outside the cathedral, beside a fountain guarded by four growling stone lions. Wherever you go, a chain of volcanoes still forms a (now fortunately more distant) backdrop to León’s crumbling colonial grandeur. ‘León is Nicaragua’s city of books,’ says Alberto Alvarez Oporta Cruz, a secondhand bookseller selling crinkly volumes in the town square, looking to pick up more stock from departing students. ‘León is our country’s cradle of poetry – we have so much to inspire poets here.’ Across Latin America, Nicaragua has a reputation as a country of poets: a place where skilled bards are revered as rock stars, and where everyone, from primary school pupils to the president, pens their own verses. In León it’s not uncommon to see students selling printouts of their compositions to passers-by. Alberto’s favourite poet and León’s most famous son lies not far away, buried beneath a statue of a more sorrowful stone lion in the Cathedral. Rubén Darío is revered as the Nicaraguan Shakespeare: by the time he was 10 he had read the whole of Don Quixote. By the time he died, aged 49, his verses could be recited across the Spanish-speaking world. One of the city’s proudest possessions is his old home – now a museum, housing his bible and the four-poster bed where he breathed his last. Come nightfall, the post-graduation celebrations gather momentum. Streets are closed down, bottles of beer are glugged, stages are assembled, bands play music and poets read commemorative verses to appreciative crowds. The party doesn’t end until the morning sun colours the sky beyond the easterly volcanoes, by which time it’s hard to disagree with the verses inscribed on Rubén Darío’s stone tomb: ‘Nicaragua is created of vigour and glory. Nicaragua is made for freedom.’
Looking east from the top of the cathedral, volcanoes dominate León’s horizon
Essentials
Occupying a colonial mansion a five-minute walk north of the city centre, Hotel La Perla has comfortable whitewashed rooms and leafy courtyards (from US$81; laperlaleon.com). To find out more about the political upheaval of 1970s Nicaragua, pay a visit to León’s Museum of the Revolution (US$1.25; Parque Central). The Rubén Darío Museum is set in the poet’s childhood home (US$1.25; Calle de Rubén Darío). Oliver Smith is senior features writer at Lonely Planet Traveller and was last year named AITO Travel Writer of the Year.
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A woman sells baskets at the side of the street. Right The Mexican-style Baroque Recolecciรณn church. Far right A fruit stall holder
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T H A I L A N D ’ S WAT E R F E S T I VA L
Buddhist New Year is the time to see Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second city, at its most animated, from the religious processions to the wet ’n’ wild antics of the local residents WORDS TIM MOORE 52
@mrtimmoore l PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MUNRO
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Temporary pumps are installed to suck water from Chiang Mai’s city moats, but any water source will be raided during the Songkran festival APRIL 2017
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T H A I L A N D ’ S WAT E R F E S T I VA L The temple in the village of Baan Mae On
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OR LONG MONTHS SUMMER has been building to a crescendo in northern Thailand, slowly filling the bowl of mountains that surrounds Chiang Mai with soupy heat. By the middle of April, a sticky, wilting haze dulls the glint from the gilded Buddhas that gaze serenely out from the city’s 300 temples. The scents of frangipani, mango and hyper-spiced street food have been slow-cooked to a ripe miasma; the contents of the four-mile moat that girdles the Old City simmered to a green broth. Something has to give and it can’t wait until the rains come down in late May. At dusk on 12 April, the downtown pavements begin to mass with excitable water warriors, fingers on plastic triggers, thumbs pressed over hose tips, buckets abrim. Ahead lies a four day, man-made monsoon, which will saturate the city’s streets and all who sail in
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them. By tradition officially stretching from 13 to 16 April, Songkran is the spray-andpray festival that marks the Buddhist New Year on 15 April. It’s a bewildering, but glorious fusion of dignified religious faith, familial devotion and deafening, technicolour aquatic madness. As a celebration of towering national importance, Songkran is like a Western Christmas and New Year rolled into one, with a soggy side order of trick-or-treat Halloween mayhem. Every dawn, families file soberly into temples with offerings and votive decorations. Every afternoon, rather less soberly, they rush through the streets toting triple-chamber water pistols. The first activity endows good karma and the second good luck. Though it might not seem so at the time, a head-to-toe slapstick soaking is the best start a year could bring.
‘Ahead lies a four day, man-made monsoon, which will saturate the city’s streets and all who sail in them’ Around 95 per cent of Thais are Buddhist and Chiang Mai – for 500 years capital of the old Lanna kingdom, the nation’s rural heartland – prides itself as a repository of spiritual and communal tradition. Nowhere is Songkran celebrated so wholeheartedly: here, the festivities are strung out for an extra day and with an enthusiasm that draws crowds from right across the land. Initiate conversation on the street – ideally during the buckets-down ceasefire that tentatively holds from 8pm to 10am – and you’ll often find yourself talking to one of the countless northerners who’ve relocated to Thailand’s more prosperous south, returning to their ancestral homeland for a uniquely profound New Year experience. It’s an opportunity to renew and reaffirm traditions, and the family bonds that Thais hold so dear. Even at Songkran, blood is much thicker than water. ‘We just don’t have temples like this in Bangkok,’ says Chiang Mai-born Kompun, admiring the weathered dragons that guard the 19th-century Wat Ton Kwen. ‘And the people up here are more kind and respectful, they always have time for you.’ With its sombre dark-wood gables and scattering of silent, orange-robed monks, the temple is a model of ascetic restraint, just a few miles outside the city, but a world away from the power-shower delirium. Only the colourful and intricately cut paper flags that sprout from towers of sand acknowledge the festivities. Kompun and her son Wasin have already added their contributions: the flags are themed to their respective zodiac signs, and an enshrined Songkran tradition is to bring a bucket or bag of sand to the temple, replacing the earth that worshippers have carried out on their feet over the previous year. Now, she sprinkles saffron perfumed, jasminepetalled water on the golden head of the temple’s Buddha. ‘It’s a blessing, to wash away the old year and make a good start for the new one.’ With a nervous
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Kruba Noi has been a monk since he was 11. Left Incense sticks are lit for prayers. Right Offerings
Songkran parade dancers in Chiang Mai. Left Prayer flags are thought to bring luck Songkran in full swing. Left Buddha cleansing. Far left Aoi Silphisuth, who runs a homestay, and her family
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T H A I L A N D ’ S WAT E R F E S T I VA L On the second day of the festival, Thais traditionally build sand pagodas at temples and bring flags as offerings
smile, she admits she won’t be participating in the super-soaked anarchy that has burst forth from this graceful, symbolic act. Clean-slate renewal and ritualised ‘merit making’ are the twin spiritual cornerstones of this festival. The former manifests itself in the redecorating of temples, intensive spring cleaning and the wearing of garish new clothes: families congregate in matching Hawaiian shirts and drape floral garlands around each other’s necks. The latter, the earning of good karma for the coming year, begins in earnest on the penultimate dawn of the old one, on 13 April, when a long line of monks files through the red-brick columns of Tha Phae gate, one of the four entrances to Chiang Mai’s 13th-century Old City. A dense crowd presses around them, toting offerings that are devoutly held forth with a respectful bow or on desperate occasion slam-dunked over a sea of heads into the monks’ silver bowls. These swiftly 56
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overflow with an extraordinary blend of the decorative and the practical: lotus-blossom bouquets, neat banana-leaf parcels packed with sticky rice, bags of crisps, drink cartons, torches, disinfectant, toilet rolls. Thailand’s 38,000 temples are almost entirely reliant on donations from the faithful and Songkran is their greatest alms-harvest. ‘I see some monks who maybe like the free food too much,’ laughs Kruba Noi, a slender novitiate who, at 19, has worn the orange for eight years. His temple lies out in the rice fields, an hour from Chiang Mai in the village of Baan Mae On, and his Songkran is largely spent accepting alms from kneeling, shoeless farming families and chanting convoluted, quick-fire blessings in return. On request, he must pay tribute to ancestors, angels, household spirits and deceased pets. It’s tough vocal work: by the end of a long morning, he’s mumbling nineteen to the dozen, like a drowsy livestock auctioneer.
At Songkran, it can feel as if every other Thai male is a monk and there has indeed been a surge in numbers over recent years: the country is currently home to more than 300,000. Some elders sniff that most newbies are young men who sign up for just a few months, drawn by the chance to study, the free bed and board, and especially the kudos. A stint as a monk bestows much familial karma and is a very attractive entry on the CV of a potential employee or husband. Kruba Noi, though, is in it for the long haul. ‘For me, this festival is about renewal, the birth of a new year and another opportunity to improve myself,’ he says, referencing an allegiance to reincarnation that underpins his religious career. Asked why he chose to become a monk, he looks nonplussed: ‘It wasn’t a choice. I was a monk in a previous life and just responded to that call.’ In Baan Mae On, extra-temple festivities are rooted in deference and fraternity.
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‘The monks’ bowls overflow with lotus parcels packed with sticky rice’ Families wander through the bamboo glades and knobbly fruited kaffir lime trees, and into each other’s open-sided teak houses, offering baskets of kanom tian – little pyramids of tapioca and coconut wrapped in banana leaves – to elderly relatives, teachers and respected shamans. Rural Songkran is a largely dry affair, though Aoi Silphisuth, who runs a homestay cookery school in the village, points out the tin troughs that stand in wait by some thresholds. ‘Just in case, you know, for defence.’ Her family will go into Chiang Mai for an evening squirt, though her son is well aware that their armoury – a kid’s bucket and a plastic bottle with a hole in the lid – will see them mercilessly outgunned. By early afternoon, it’s topped 40˚C back in the Old City and a procession is wobbling out of the heat haze down a long, straight avenue. In Chiang Mai, 13 April is centred around this spectacle, one that began at
A bodhi tree with mai kam sticks, meant to bring luck to those who leave them. Right Food is a big part of the festival
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T H A I L A N D ’ S WAT E R F E S T I VA L The moats around the Old City and Huay Kaew, to the northeast, are the centre of the action
first light with the hectic presentation of monkish alms. Now, the pavements are dense with expectant worshippers and street vendors hawking festival fuel in all its forms: bags of khaep mu, the deep-fried pork-rind that accessorises every meal in the city; the challenging blend of bitter, black herb jelly and condensed milk that is chao kuai; crate after crate of topless, hurl-ready bottles of cloyingly perfumed water. It always rains on this parade. The dancers and musicians in the procession’s first ranks are a graceful riot of tortured woodwind, garish silk and delicate, synchronised movement. Lined up behind them, half-hidden by rolling arcs of spray, stretches an endless cavalcade of flowersmothered carnival floats, each bearing a Buddha on temporary leave from one of the city’s showpiece temples. In the clamorous, sodden hours ahead, every statue and spectator will enjoy a comprehensive ceremonial cleanse. Yet as a Songkran water fight, this is no more than a dry run. Come early evening, and Chiang Mai is awash. A tide seeps over the threshold of every commercial establishment and well-oiled, well-watered drinkers drench each other from the forecourt of every bar. In the three days that follow, taking a tuk-tuk through the downtown crossfire feels like an unhinged theme-park ride. You slide helplessly about on sodden vinyl, strafed by 58
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jets of chilled water, manic shrieks and waves of cheesy Thai techno. After a while, you realise the driver isn’t frantically hooting his horn to deter the hose-wielders and bucket-hurlers, but to get their attention. He’s laughing now, but might stop when he finds himself being paid with a wodge of sodden pulp. Double-wrapped waterproof pouches for phones and cash are a Songkran essential. So too, if you run the watery gauntlet along that microbially rich moat, are swimming goggles. Wet, wet, wet. You feel it in your fingers, you feel it in your toes. Thailand’s government, reacting to traditionalist concerns, has issued an edict for decorous restraint, though you’d never guess it. A dry shirt is a red rag: unassuming, overdressed visitors are given a full-body tsunami the second they leave their hotels. The street is a logjam of pick-ups, each home to a water butt and a sodden, gleeful family. One group totes giant syringes, piped into backpack reservoirs. High-velocity, pumpaction super-soakers are the preferred youth choice, but the more experienced have come to learn that for instant, shock-andawe impact, nothing beats a bucket. The Songkran aqua-battle is by no means just a young man’s game: put a brimming pail in a grandfather’s hands and he’s seven again, tapping into that ageless, universal thrill of the spill. As an outsider, it’s difficult to subdue the hardwired reflex to take the
assailant to angry task. Even more so when it transpires that you’re expected to thank them for the blessed sluicing away of grubby old misfortunes. Every visitor to Thailand will be told about sanuk, the national credo of taking pleasure from every life experience, both rough and smooth. The sight of very drunk people peaceably hurling water into each other’s faces for four days straight must rank as sanuk’s ultimate expression. ‘For 360 days, Thai people are super-polite and respectful,’ says a very wet Athirath Arunyaka, up from Bangkok to soak up Songkran with his Chiang Mai-resident family. ‘This is like a purge of all our bad behaviour.’ It’s the final night of the fight, the storm before the calm. In the morning the silent streets are lined with a colourful detritus of cracked buckets, broken water pistols and soggy garlands, the air heavy with old beer and incense. Tentatively, the pavements fill with the extremely old and the very young, kept inside for their own safety. Previously unviable cycle rickshaws return to the road, personal space is once more painstakingly respected. But the heat is already bullying and today there will be no baptismal relief. Tim Moore has written 10 travel books. Last year, for The Cyclist Who Went Out in the Cold, he cycled the route of the old Iron Curtain.
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‘In the clamorous, sodden hours ahead, every statue and spectator will enjoy a comprehensive ceremonial cleanse’
With the cleansing of Buddha, the sins and bad luck of the old year are washed away, ready for the new APRIL 2017
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MAKE IT HAPPEN
Chiang Mai GETTING THERE AND AROUND
There are direct flights from Singapore on Silk Air (from US$329; silkair.com) and from Kuala Lumpur on AirAsia (from US$90; airasia.com).
TOUR OPERATOR
Throughout the year, Intrepid offers small-group tours around the Chiang Mai area, ranging from the three-day Chiang Mai and Elephants Tour, with guests meeting an abbot of a Buddhist temple and visiting an elephant sanctuary (from US$310, including accommodation, breakfast and airport transfer) to the eight-day Explore Northern Thailand Tour, which includes a homestay in Baan Mae On village and time in ancient
Sukhothai (from US$633, including accommodation, transport from Bangkok and some meals; intrepidtravel.com). Alternatively, Urban Adventures has one-day trips that has opportunities to meet Buddhist monks and learn meditation at a 600-year-old temple (US$70; urbanadventures.com).
FIND OUT MORE
Lonely Planet’s Thailand (US$29.99) covers the city of Chiang Mai. Alternatively, you can download individual chapters online at shop. lonelyplanet. com (US$4.95).
WHILE YOU’RE IN CHIANG MAI…
WHERE TO STAY OLD CITY LUXURY Next to the Old City’s most revered temple, Wat Phra Singh, the Rachamankha is a serene complex of hidden courtyards, poolside massage pavilions (pictured below) and antique-laden rooms (from US$187; rachamankha.com). HEART OF THE ACTION Just east of the Old City moat and close to Tha Pae Gate – the focal point of the Songkran procession – Raming Lodge is a smart hotel offering great bang for your baht, with an onsite spa and swimming pool (from US$50; raminglodge.com).
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PEACE AND VALUE Located in the quieter southern part of the city centre, Gord guesthouse has spacious rooms, a small tranquil garden and complimentary bicycles for guests to borrow (from £28; gordchiangmai.com). SAMPLE STREET FOOD Sizzling barbecue and lemongrass aromas are omnipresent in Chiang Mai. The best places to try Thai food here include Warorot evening market and the Sunday Walking Street market on Thanon Ratchadamnoen Road.
VISIT AN ELEPHANT SANCTUARY Offering an alternative to circus-like shows with poor animal-safety standards, the Elephant Nature Park is a sanctuary where visitors help look after rescued pachyderms in a semi-wild environment (elephantnaturepark.org). MEDITATE WITH MONKS Chiang Mai brims with Buddhist temples and many offer short meditation courses and retreats for English-speakers, including the one-day and two-day courses offered at Wat Suan Dok (from US$12.50; monkchat.net).
COMPILED BY TIM MOORE. PHOTOGRAPHS: MATT MUNRO, SHELL125/GETTY, INSPIRED CITIZEN MEDIA
ESSENTIALS
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Chiang Mai’s streets awash with revellers
SONKGRAN: A BEGINNER’S GUIDE DAY BY DAY 13 APRIL
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To prepare for the upcoming year, this is a day of washing away the old. Thais clean their houses and cleanse Buddha images in ritual ceremonies with jasmine-scented water. The statues are paraded in a colourful, musical procession through town
The first official day of the new year, this is when people gather early in the morning at temples to offer food prepared the previous day, fruit, new robes and alms to monks. Traditionally this was the day for playfully sprinkling water over friends and family, though nowadays all-out water fights take place across the entire festival.
Wan Sangkhan Lohng
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Wan Nao
Locals spend much of this day eating with family. They also visit temples to fashion mounds of sand into mini pagodas, decorating them with flowers and paper streamers, to gain spiritual merit.
Wan Payawan
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Wan Paak Bpee
This is an important and special day, where Thai people honour their ancestors and respectfully pour scented water over the hands of elders, who in turn give them blessings. Every family congregates in their homes to prepare and consume curries made from the rather sickly-sweet jackfruit, whose name in Thai translates as good luck.
SURVIVAL TIPS WATERPROOF EVERYTHING There’s no avoiding a soaking during Songkran, so make sure cameras, phones and any cash are safely tucked away in impermeable bags. DRESS FOR BATTLE Make sure that you’re wearing clothes that won’t bleed colour or end up entirely see-through. Water guns, buckets, and bowls are all fair game and can be refilled at free water stations and vendors throughout the old town and moat area. Don’t forget sun protection! STOCK UP ON CASH All public offices, including banks, close for several days, so ATMs sometimes run out of money. Pick up plenty of baht in advance but don’t carry large amounts of cash on your person, as pickpockets can be present in the crowds. REMEMBER IT’S A RELIGIOUS HOLIDAY Travellers are welcome at temples where important ceremonies are taking place. But show respect by dressing conservatively. Remove your shoes, don’t touch the monks and avoid kissing until you’re off temple grounds. And remember to wish everyone ‘sawasdee pee mai’, happy new year.
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The bewilderment of
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The remarkable agriculture, local cuisine, architecture and natural beauty of Kansai continues to enrapture its visitors WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS ISABELLA TAN IMAGES SHOT ON CANON POWERSHOT G7 X MARK II; CANON.COM.SG
Amanohashidate, a natural 3.6km sandbar on the Tango Peninsula; when viewed upside down between your legs, it resembles a bridge to heaven APRIL 2017
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KANSAI Funaya, which is also known as ‘boathouses’ in the town of Ine
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SAKA IS THE REGIONAL capital of Kansai, and Kansai Airport is its gateway to explore the beauty of the region. Travellers are spoilt for choice, as there are many transport options to choose from, and by purchasing a ‘Kansai One Pass’ ICOCA card, travellers will be able to travel around freely on the JR lines, subways, private railways and buses. The ICOCA card cannot be used on the Shinkansen (Japanese Bullet Train) and stations of different JR companies but the card can be used in shops, facilities and vending machines that accept ICOCA electronic money.
KICKING IT OFF IN KYOTO PREFECTURE
Upon arrival in Kyoto, we had our dinner at Funatsuru Kyoto Kamogawa Resort, a fusion of Kyoto and French cuisine that uses only the freshest Kyoto vegetables and meat. With an exclamation of ‘Itadakimasu!’ (bon appétit or let’s eat in Japanese), we hurriedly dig into the freshly prepared food that are a reflection of what’s available in Kyoto – warm pumpkin and carrot soup, risotto with codfish, venison with carrot puree and an array of desserts. Each dish is done with such care and perfection that we’re only left desiring more as each plate empties. From Funatsuru Kyoto Kamogawa Resort, we head out to Himiko, to 64
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experience a local Japanese style pub. At Himiko, seafood is the most recommended thing to order as the seafood is caught fresh from the Sea of Japan. If feeling adventurous, puffer fish is available for order, and in winter, when crab is in season, ordering the matsuba kani crab is a must. The crab can be prepared grilled or raw; either way, the crab will make anyway exclaim ‘oishii!’ in delight. Already stuffed with so much seafood, our guide asks if we’d like to experience something different: “Have you ever made fishcakes?” Our guide brings us to Kamaboko factory in Maizuru that offers programmes for tourists and locals to experience fishcake making (maizuru-k.com). Kamaboko is derived from broiling salted fish paste that has been rolled onto a bamboo stick. In the Edo period, however, the Japanese started to make kamaboko by heating fish paste on small boards. The Japanese then renamed ‘kamaboko’ to ‘chikuwa’, which means ‘bamboo ring’, as a means of distinguishing one from another. In this factory, visitors can try to make three types of fishcake – kamaboko, chikuwa and tempura. As Maizuru faces the Sea of Japan, there is always an abundance of fresh fish around to make the best tasting kamaboko in Japan. For more on seafood from Maizuru, it is best to visit Maizuru Seafood
Market. “Fish is meant to tempt, as well as nourish, and everything that lives in the water is seductive,” our guide tells us. The strange anecdote comes alive when we step into one of the largest markets in Kyoto. From wall to wall of the market, all we see are the variety of fresh seafood available throughout the year: crabs, octopus, Iwagaki oysters, Torigai (shellfish), prawns, and all kinds of fresh fish are laid out for restaurateurs to pick out. For visitors, Maizuru Seafood market allows visitors to buy and consume their seafood on the spot. Choose what you fancy and have the chefs grill them for you. Our last stop in Kyoto is Ine, a quaint town situated along the coast of northern Kyoto. 230 boathouses, also known as ‘Funaya’, form the line on the shore of Ine Bay. We take a tour around the town on a sightseeing boat and also experience feeding hungry seagulls. Most of the residents living on Funaya depend on fishing for a living and some have even refurbished their homes into motels for tourists to experience authentic Ine living.
STOPOVER IN SHIGA PREFECTURE
After all the seafood in Kyoto, we head to Shiga Prefecture to visit Lake Biwa, the largest freshwater lake in the prefecture located northeast of Kyoto. Despite the spine-chilling winter
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Kamaboko fishcake making. Left Sabaka Daikou leaves and Kabu roots feature in Kansai cuisine. Right Grilling handmade chikuwa
Winter is the best season for crab lovers to have a taste of Maizuru’s freshest crab. Right Kansai’s common catch: grilled mackeral Coffee from one of the funaya boathouses Right Seagull waiting for feeding time
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breeze, we are dazzled by the view of Lake Biwa. In the deep of winter, snow has blanketed everything, turning the enchanting landscape white. Lake Biwa supplies water to 14 million people in the vicinity, as well as flows downstream to other regions, including Osaka, and is used to supply water to industrial and agriculture places also. The shores of Lake Biwa breathe deep with nature and there are more than 1,100 species of plants and wildlife that can be found around the lake. Lake Biwa has its own charms in each season throughout the year and is a place that should be revisited just to witness every season’s charm on Lake Biwa on display. Near Lake Biwa is Ogura Shrine and it is where our tour guides from Tour du Lac Biwa (lacbiwa.com) meet us to take us on a stroll around the Ogi Village. Winter has dusted the village and the surrounding terraced rice fields in snow and the scene is absolutely breathtaking. We are told that the colours of the rice fields change according to the change in seasons as well. Many of the farmers here hold at least two jobs, as they wait for the bone chill of winter to end before plantation cycle can begin again. Our stroll brings us to a local rice farmer’s house, where the Kousaka family has been living in for seven generations. The couple living here prepared fresh steaming sticky rice for visitors to try their hand at pounding mochi. Kousaka-san keenly showed the group how to pound mochi using a 66
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kine (wooden mochi hammer) that weighs approximately 3.8kg. Pounding mochi isn’t as easy as it looks but the heart-warming cheers of the Kousaka family are enough to spur anyone to continue on the hard work. Once the mochi has been prepared, flavours are added for more taste. Flavours like matcha (green tea), and yomogi (Japanese mugwort) are the more common ones found in Japan. Yomogi, which is native to Japan, is an herb that aids indigestion and excessive bleeding, and is also used as a beauty treatment that helps beautify skin and promote reproductive health. The mochi pounding is tiring work and the Kousaka family continued to extend their warmth and welcome by preparing lunch. The afternoon meal of sukiyaki is prepared right in front of us as the couple showed us how this hearty Japanese meal can be simply made with just a few ingredients at home: sugar, chicken, glass noodles, egg yolks, vegetables and soy sauce are just thrown into an iron hot pot to stew for awhile before everyone digs in together. The meal’s conversations focuses on the Kousaka family who share interesting anecdotes about their life, such as how Kousaka-san often collects snakes and insects to make wine but is afraid and almost disgusted by the idea of trying the wines he has created. Although winter surrounded us, this interaction with the Kousaka family warmed our hearts like a summer’s day.
HEADING TO HYOGO PREFECTURE
With a history that dates back to 1,300 years ago, Kinosaki, an onsen town located in Toyooka City just 2.5 hours from Kyoto, is well designed to fit the needs of tourists, yet has managed to preserve its traditional elegance. It is famous for its seven public onsen and it is customary to wear yukata (a light kimono) all around the town. This very traditionally Japanese custom that is now beloved by many visitors is why many choose to visit Kinosaki. Tourists may choose to dip in any of the public baths that strike their fancy, and then stroll through the streets of Kinosaki in their yukata. These bathing facilities are tattoo-friendly, a practice that caters to tourists who are worried of being turned away by public baths who frown upon body art. “Each inn is a guestroom, and the streets are its hallways,” is an adage that Kinosaki lives by and these words from the past still apply as every nook and cranny radiates a warm and friendly atmosphere to each and every guest. For tourists looking for extra touring services, Kinosaki has opened a Sorozo Tourist Center (global.kinosaki-info. com) to offer a variety of services, such as the booking of day tours and tourist attractions. While in Kinosaki, one must not miss out on tasting Tajima beef. Tajima beef originated from Japanese Black Cattle from the Tajima region in Hyogo Prefecture. It is said that the ancestor of all Japanese Black Cattle are cattle
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Farmer’s wife prepared hot steaming rice cake for pounding. Left Local farmer’s homemade yuzu wine. Right Freshly pounded mochi Gigantic crab sign to attract customers in Kinosaki Onsen. Left Bowl of rice topped with Tajima beef steak to bring luck
Souvenirs from a local shrine
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KANSAI The ‘Glico’ running man is a must-take shot in Osaka’s Dotonburi
from Tajima and the origins of Kobe beef and Matsuzaka beef are actually Tajima beef. Dining Mikuni is a restaurant in Kinosaki that is popular for its Tajima beef. The restaurant purchases their beef directly from Ueda Cattle Farm, which produces champion cows. The main difference between Japanese Black Cattle and Tajima Cattle is the melting point of the fat. The fat in Tajima beef melts at a lower temperature of 12˚C, which results in the coveted melt-in-themouth sensation when eaten straight off the grill. Elsewhere in Hyogo Prefecture, we head to Himeji Castle, which is also known as the ‘White Heron Castle’, as the architecture resembles a heron taking flight. After five-and-a-half years of restoration work, this 400-year-old castle has been revitalised. The magnificent structure is renowned in Japan, and has retained its original form since its construction with its eight plastered keeps and towers, and 74 other towers and gates. From the outside, the castle looks like it only has five floors but it actually has six, excluding the basement. The castle was designed to prevent enemy invasion in mind. The shelters of the gates are made of wood, such that in the event of an invasion, the soldiers could knock down the 68
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shelter easily to collapse them onto the enemies or block off the entrance. New to the Himeji Castle are some Augmented Reality (AR) spots, where tourists can download the ‘Himeji Castle Great Discovery’ app through Apple’s App Store or Google’s Play Store to view past images of the castle to compare the old structure with the restored one. Another structure to visit in Hyogo Prefecture is Engyoji Temple, a quiet mountaintop temple founded by Buddhist priest, Shoku about a thousand years ago in 966AD. Shoku had received enlightenment from the God of Wisdom and Intellect, Monju, and was told that whoever climbed this mountain would be purified in both body and spirit. Soon after he received this message, streams of people started climbing Mount Shosha to pray for divine favours, and faith in Mount Shosha began to increase and prosper. Today, Engyoji Temple is best known as one of the best film locations for the movie, ‘The Last Samurai’ starring Tom Cruise. Moving on from the spiritual experience of Engyoji, we move onto another experience of the ‘spirit’ kind with sake tasting in Harima, a town in Kako District in Hyogo Prefecture. Harima is the home of Japanese sake and is the largest and most productive
district to grow ‘Yamada Nishiki’, a short-grain variety of Japanese rice that is famous for its use in brewing high quality sake. Nadagiku Shuzo Brewery is a family business, which has been opened to the public for the past 20 years. Nadagiku Shuzo Brewery has preserved the old sake-making factory layout as it has been since the 1930s of the Showa Era. Kawaishi-san is the CEO of Nadagiku Shuzo Brewery who showed us the process of brewing sake and explained the differences between the old and new sakaguras (sakemaking rooms). The old wooden sakaguras are preserved in the premises of Nadagiku Brewery since its foundation in the year of 43 in the Meiji Era. Today, sake is made at Kinoegura, which is made of reinforced concrete. Besides selling various homebrewed sakes, Nadagiku Shuzo Brewery also sells facial toner water made of pure rice liquor, which contains kojic acid. Kojic acid is produced during the fermentation and has been identified as the reason why sake brewers’ hands are so soft and smooth.
OUR ENDING IN OSAKA PREFECTURE
We finish off our tour of Kansai region on one of Osaka’s busiest streets, Shinsaibashi and Dotonburi. Buzzing from day till night, the streets are a shopping arcade for fashion lovers to splurge on clothes, and is just a great place to pick up Japanese home-brand cosmetics, souvenirs, and have local street food on the go. For those who don’t enjoy shopping, Dotonburi Street has many gigantic, and flashy neon signboards that are prefect for Instagram shots or to just walk around. Grab something to eat at Minokichi, which is conveniently located near Shinsaibashi for your fill of Osakan delights in a Kaiseki Japanese cuisine restaurant. Kaiseki is a traditional Japanese multi-course haute cuisine that is meticulously and beautifully prepared. Minokichi’s kaiseki set meal begins with a selection of appetisers and vegetables before the meal ends with a serving of rice and alcoholic drinks. At the end of the meal, we say “Gochiso sama deshita”, which means, “It was quite a feast” and we share the same feelings for Kansai. With its unique virtues, it is truly a land of elegance that is filled with warmth, graciousness and heartfelt welcome from its people. A friendly, smiling face is the most common sight here and the most commonly heard words, “Arigatou gozaimsau!”
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Mackerel sushi making. Left Uontana Market sells fresh seafood where locals get their groceries. Right Crab-flavoured ice cream with gold flakes in Kinosaki Onsen The street of a quaint town of Kinosaki Onsen. Left Incense and candles for sale in Engyoji Temple
Wooden pails as decorations on the ceiling in Nadagiku Sake Brewery dining area
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Komsomolskaya is the most extravagant of all the Soviet-era stations. Opened in 1952 and designed by the same architect as Lenin’s tomb, it has eight large ceiling mosaics made from semiprecious stones like jasper and lapis lazuli, showing heroic scenes from Russian military history. 70
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The Photographer’s Story D av i d B u r d e n y
MOSCOW METRO I first visited Moscow in late 2014 and discovered that its metro stations were absolutely remarkable – it then took months to get permission to photograph them. With the help of a Russian producer, I was eventually able to gain access after hours, and was allowed 40 minutes in each, shooting about four per night. The metro was opened in 1935 and was intended to culturally jumpstart Stalin’s new Russia, instilling a sense of pride and putting forward a grand face to the world. The stations were designed by various architects and reflect their different styles, from Art Deco to mock-Italian palazzos – with lots of marble, mosaics, sculptures and chandeliers. They were conceived as ‘palaces for the people’ where workers were given a cultural experience typically reserved for the wealthy; a theme of light symbolises the ‘bright future’ of Communism. Today, Moscow’s metro is one of the busiest in the world, and it was amazing to be in these spaces when they were empty. I had no idea of the sheer scale of some of them; I tried to translate that in my photos, but it’s really something that needs to be experienced first-hand. Though the stations feel old, they’ve been maintained well in their original state – there’s no advertising, and no sense of the 21st century being laid over the top. Entering feels like stepping into a massive antique, or back in time. David Burdeny is a Canadian travel photographer with a background in architecture and interior design. See more of his work at davidburdeny.com.
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Art Nouveau Novoslobodskaya includes 32 stained-glass panels and a mosaic with a political theme – typical of the stations. They were full of messages and information – with the idea that new residents from the countryside were brought up to ideological speed as they moved through the metro all day.
Aeroport station, near Moscow’s former airport, was finished in 1938 and was part of a second stage of station building that took place in the late ’30s. This station had the most opulent designs, with gold, semi-precious stones, mosaics, and 14 different varieties of marble (like the pink and black marbles from Siberia and the Urals used in the panels here). 72
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Elektrozavodskaya was unique among the stations I saw, which mostly had vaulted ceilings with a few soft lights. Here, these intense, almost surgical lights exaggerate the symbolism of light and the sun, which was often used as a metaphor for Stalin. The bas-reliefs depict the war effort during WWII.
MAKE IT HAPPEN Qatar Airways plies the most direct route from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur with one stop in Doha (from US$777; qatarairways.com). A metro ticket is US$0.50, and allows unlimited travel until exiting; cards of multiple rides offer discounts (five rides for US$2). Avoid peak commuter times; after 8pm, or weekend mornings, are best. While you can explore on your own, English signage is limited, and several companies offer guided tours taking in many of the most impressive stations (from US$27.50; viator.com). Lonely Planet’s Moscow includes a self-guided route (US$21.99). MARCH APRIL 2017
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EXTRAORDINARY PLACES TO STAY WORDS JOSMIN ONG
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Holidays are all about escaping realities, and what better way to do that than to stay in a funky or classy themed hotel room instead of your usual run-of-the-mill rooms from hotel chains. There are a couple different ways to play up the themed design game. For one, hoteliers can choose to splash the entire property with a particular mascot, music bands or colour theme. Alternatively, the accommodations can have various themed rooms in one building, allowing returning guests to also experience something distinctive. Whatever the reason, here are our top picks of amazing hotels tailor-made for the enthusiast of the world.
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1. THE REVERIE SAIGON
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam WHAT ARE THE INDELIBLE EXPRESSIONS? The Reverie Saigon is one of the tallest hotels in the metropolitan area, located within one of the most esteemed zip codes – Dong Khoi Street and Nguyen Hue Boulevard. The classic luxury hotel is home to the boldest expression of opulence in Vietnam and continues to wow guests even after two years of operation. Expect to encounter unreserved grandeur in its Italian interior design, from the palatial lobby up to each one of the guestrooms in any of the 12 categories. Interiors are carefully curated by some of Italy’s most recognised furnishings design brands such as Colombostile, Giorgetti and Visionnaire, ranging from classical European to whimsical romantic themes. For large groups of travellers, full-serviced apartments are also available and feature accents by Cassina, Medea, Grifoni and Le Procellane. DESTINATION TIPS? Ho Chi Minh City is one
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of the busiest cities in Vietnam, and one that drives the country’s economy and progress. Within this chaotic whirl, expect to find the finest of hotels such as The Reverie Saigon, to the cheapest of guesthouses. Drop by famed attractions such as the War Remnants Museum and Notre Dame Cathedral or, shop within the heart of the city’s prestigious central urban area – District 1, literally a stone’s throw from the hotel. RATE: US$350++ per night thereveriesaigon.com
2. THE LITERARY MAN – ÓBIDOS HOTEL Óbidos, Portugal
WHAT ARE THE INDELIBLE EXPRESSIONS? This hotel is an amalgamation of a library, bookstore and accommodation in one. For the bookworms out there, this is literary heaven. The hotel boasts a collection of more than 40,000 titles including best-sellers, children’s books, vintage books or coffee-table books, all
preserved in mint condition in case any visitors decide to purchase them. Within the library, there are also donated Portuguese titles, with a wide selection focused on technical books useful for history, philosophy, psychology or sociology students. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of books also go towards helping local credible institutions supporting social causes. As for the sleeping quarters, there are two options – Convent’s Old Part that boast traditional wooden ceilings and old floors or the Flank of the Nuns, a seamless eco-chic designed room. DESTINATION TIPS? Óbidos is a gorgeous historic centre that is a labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and brightly coloured houses. It is often visited as a day trip from Lisbon but for visitors who enjoy the gentler pace of life, this may be a good place to reside for a while. Explore the Porta de Vila chapel, walk the town, discover the secrets within the Óbidos Castle or simply turn to Rua Direita for some souvenir shopping. RATE: US$91++ per night theliteraryman.pt
PHOTOGRAPHS: THE LITERARY MAN - ÓBIDOS HOTEL, THE REVERIE SAIGON
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E X T R A O R D I N A RY P L A C E S T O S TAY
Las Vegas, USA
WHAT ARE THE INDELIBLE EXPRESSIONS? For The Palms Towers, good things come in threes, namely Palms Fantasy Tower, Palms Place and Palms Ivory Tower. The first building is what interests us most as it allows visitors to delight in their imagination. Aside from the usual superior guestrooms, there are some other swanky accommodation types within the Luxe Collection like the Fantasy penthouses dressed in designer furniture, a Hot Pink Suite designed by “Happy Chic” designer Jonathan Adler, the Kingpin Suite that boasts two regulation-sized bowling lanes and a Hardwood Suite that comes with a full-sized basketball court. At the top of the tower, visitors can also enjoy sweeping views of the iconic Las Vegas strip 52 stories down, while dining at NOVE Italiano. DESTINATION TIPS? Las Vegas is notoriously known for being Sin City. Located in Neveda’s Mojave Desert, the resort city is centered on indulgence with its 24-hour casinos and other entertainment options. Significant attractions include Mob Museum, CityCenter and VooDoo ZipLine. There are also plenty of experiences in-house such as the Ghostbar Dayclub – Las Vegas’ favourite afternoon bash, Brenden Theatres – a 14-screen movieplex within the Palms and the Pearl Concert Theater for major shows. RATE: US$80++ per night
4. EDEN EXOTICISM PLANET HOTEL Kaohsiung, Taiwan
WHAT ARE THE INDELIBLE EXPRESSIONS? To spice up the motels within the country and even the region, the owners of Eden decided that themes are a good way to attract new guests while keeping regular ones. Each room is unique and comes in a variety of options such as a jungleinspired modern room, an ocean room, Balineseinspired, French classical, Legends of the Mummy and even a dream rose garden that is filled with cheesy yet romantic hearts and roses plastered all over the room. But the star of the motel remains the Batman room, one that mimics the movie almost entirely with its own cave-like walls, bat signal and mysterious wall decors. 78
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DESTINATION TIPS? Kaohsiung is an underrated port city in southern Taiwan. There is so much to see and do in the second largest city of the country despite it being home to heavy and petrochemical industries. The modern urban landscape of cafes, shops, theme parks and cultural venues help transform what was once a weary city into the trendy hangout port it is today. Beaches and pristine forests are also good natural places of explorations for those who love the outdoors.
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RATE: US$82++ per night eden-motel.com.tw
5. HOTEL INDIGO SINGAPORE KATONG Katong, Singapore WHAT ARE THE INDELIBLE EXPRESSIONS? Hotel Indigo may be part of a large hotel brand, but the upscale boutique hotel has stayed true to its identity and no two Hotel Indigo hotels are identical in the world. Right here in sunny island Singapore, the 131-room establishment is themed around the history of not just the country but also the specific location it is built in. The hotel incorporates the colourful charm of the surrounding neighbourhood into its architecture and design, and visitors can find all sorts of interesting knick-knacks sitting within the hotel, whether in public or private spaces. The design elements are strongly inspired by the Peranakans (Straits-born Chinese) and collages of intricate Peranakan ceramic patterns can be seen throughout the hotel. In each room, an art mural also depicts the laidback, communal lifestyle of the neighbourhood in the olden days. DESTINATION TIPS? Katong is home to art, culture, design and food. It is a snapshot of Singapore’s past, one where it used to be a bustling road for street vendors. Today, the original shop houses still remain but the façade has been refurnished over the years to keep up with times. This may also be the perfect place to experience what we call a melting pot of cultures. Within one neighbourhood, there are also four gorgeous places of worship to visit. RATE: US$140++ per night hotelindigo.com/singapore
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PHOTOGRAPHS: HOTEL INDIGO, PALMS CASINO RESORT, EDEN MOTEL
3. PALMS CASINO RESORT
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Mini Guides S I X T H E M E D G U I D E S T O TA K E O N T H E P E R F E C T S H O RT B R E A K
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Friday THE TETLEY
The Victorian Corn Exchange in Leeds
MINI GUIDE
SHEARS YARD
Yorkshire’s largest city flaunts its 19th-century industrial heritage with independent shops, craft breweries and innovative food haunts in old mills, Victorian arcades and cobbled alleys.
One of a handful of restaurants striving to put seasonal and local food at the heart of their menus, Shears Yard is a sophisticated bar-and-kitchen with a laid-back atmosphere. The food offers inventive twists on honest Northern grub, and dishes are light, meaning you’ll still feel like hitting Leeds’ excellent pubs after eating here (shearsyard. com; lunch Sat–Sun & dinner Tue–Sat; 11–15 Wharf St; mains from US$15).
Saturday
Sunday
Weekend in Leeds
MORNING SHOP
Start at the Corn Exchange, which has been transformed into a home for boutiques, cafés and a great souvenir shop. Browse the Victorian arcades running east to west from Vicar Lane to Albion Street. For lunch, head to Kirkgate Market, one of the largest covered markets in Europe, which has a new fresh food hall and street food cafés (leedscornexchange.co.uk, leeds. gov.uk/leedsmarkets). Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
It’s worth the trip alone to glimpse the 1930s Tetley’s brewery offices this contemporary art gallery is housed in. Have a nosy at the old boardroom and the wrought-iron lift shaft, then browse the modern art exhibitions displayed in the wood-panelled offices. After, grab a pint at the bar, then head out to the patio for a game of boules (thetetley. org; Hunslet Rd; 11am–6pm Mon–Sat, to 4pm Sun; free).
ROYAL ARMOURIES
The UK’s national military museum is Leeds’ top attraction and a national institution. More than 8,500 artefacts are housed here, including suits of armour, swords, scabbards and rifles that date to the 16th century. If you’ve ever wondered what 17th-century Mughal elephant chainmail looks like, you’ll find out here. Take bus 70 from Leeds Train Station (US$0.60); you can catch a free water taxi back from Leeds Dock to Granary Wharf (royalarmouries. org; Armouries Drive; free).
The Art Deco Tetley’s Brewery was reopened as a gallery in 2013
ANGELICA
The city centre is spread out before you from the rooftop of Angelica, a swish cocktail bar with floor-to-ceiling windows and a leafy terrace. It’s part of the Trinity Shopping Centre, but has much more style than its entranceway suggests. End Friday sipping one of its cocktails, such as a wasabi martini (angelica-restaurant. com; 70 Boar Lane; 10am–12am Mon–Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; cocktails from US$9).
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NORTHERN MONK
Horse armour in the Oriental Gallery at the Royal Armouries
BELGRAVE MUSIC HALL & CANTEEN
Three floors in a restyled 1930s block, two bars stocked with craft beer, two canteens, one huge roof terrace and a cosy performance space make Belgrave Music Hall a veritable warren of fun. Belgrave is beloved by locals as a one-stop-shop for a good night out in Leeds. Check the website to book tickets for a catalogue of diverse acts from burlesque to comedy, folk music to hip-hop (belgravemusichall.com; 1–1a Cross Belgrave Street; tickets from US$10).
Leeds’ favourite microbrewery is housed in a Grade II-listed building and takes inspiration from monastic brewing. It’s also one of the city’s best brunch spots. Try avocado and black pudding crumpets, followed by a couple of beer tasters, and breathe in the hoppy aromas from the on-site brewing tanks (northernmonkbrewco.com; closed Mon; dishes from US$4.50).
LEEDS INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM
Once the world’s largest textile mill, the building has been made into a museum that tells the story of Leeds’ industrial past, both glorious and ignominious. As well as a selection of mill machinery, there’s a particularly informative display about how cloth is made. The museum is near the city centre; take bus 15 (US$1.25) from the station (leeds.gov.uk/armleymills; Canal Road; closed Mon; US$5).
Brunch is served in The Refectory at the Northern Monk brewery
KIRKSTALL ABBEY
This riverside abbey was built in the 12th century by Cistercian monks. Its archways, chambers and crumbling walls, surrounded by 24 hectares of parkland, are now popular with walkers, families and picnickers. Across the road, there’s an Abbey Museum about Victorian life in Leeds. To get here, take buses 33, 33a or 757 from the city centre towards Kirkstall Road (leeds.gov.uk/museums andgalleries; closed Mon; free).
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MINI GUIDE Weekend in Leeds
Leeds essentials TRANSPORT
Connect to Leeds from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur on KLM via Amsterdam (from US$959; klm. com). Alternatively, fly into London on British Airways and then take a train (from US$1,226; ba.com).London trains to Leeds are operated by Virgin’s East Coast line, from King’s Cross (from US$40 return; virgintrainseast coast.com). Leeds is compact and easily walkable; sights such as Kirkstall Abbey, the Royal Armouries and the Industrial Museum can be reached via short bus journeys. Most buses run down Boar Lane, Headrow or through Leeds Train Station (single ticket around US$1.25).
WHERE TO STAY
Leeds’ new Art Hostel provides a decent budget option in the city. Artists have designed the rooms and adorned the walls with artworks; the common area has retro furniture and the rooms rock an industrial look (arthostel. 84
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Drinking
Entertainment
org.uk; 83 Kirkgate; twins from US$68). Quebecs shows off Victorian grace at its opulent best. The elaborate wood panelling and stained-glass windows in the public areas are matched by the contemporary design of the bedrooms (quebecshotel.co.uk; 9 Quebec St; from US$110). Original 18th-century mill features and exposed beams make 42 The Calls unique. It’s in a quiet riverside spot, but still close to the Call Lane area. Whitby kippers and sausage sandwiches are on the breakfast menu (42thecalls.com; 42 The Calls; from US$161).
Eating
Sleeping
The know-how DALES ON THE DOORSTEP
The Art Hostel’s ’50s style reception and lobby
Sights
The Yorkshire Dales National Park is within 30 miles of Leeds. Geography The Yorkshire Dales’ glacial valleys are characterised by high heather moorland and flat-topped hills. In the limestone country of the southern Dales you’ll find England’s best examples of limestone karst scenery. Highlights The Dales have been protected as a national park since the ’50s. Grassington, Malham, Wensleydale, and Ribblesdale and the Three Peaks are particularly well loved. The park’s official website (yorkshiredales.org.uk) is a useful source of information. Transport The park is reachable on the scenic Settle–Carlisle train line (below; settle-carlisle.co.uk), which calls at Skipton, Settle and numerous villages, offering unrivalled access to the hills straight from the platform.
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s England (US$24.99) includes a chapter on Yorkshire that can be downloaded individually from lonely planet.com (US$4.95). The dialogue between some of the characters in Wuthering Heights, set in the Yorkshire moors, will help prepare you for the at-timesbewildering Yorkshire accent. The Leodis Collections (leodis.net) is a new online portal providing easy access to the Leeds Libraries’ photo archive – a fascinating curation of historic images of the city, plotted onto a map.
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM NEIL WILSON. PHOTOGRAPHS: ALLAN BAXTER/GETTY IMAGES, JOHN MORRISON/ALAMY, TOM JOY, JON SPARKS/ALAMY
Shopping
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History DERRY
Northern Ireland’s second city has a great riverside setting, a lively music scene and lots of history to absorb. A stroll around the 17thcentury city walls is a must, as is a tour of the Bogside political murals. Completed in 1619, the walls are 8m high and 9m thick, with a circumference of almost a mile, and are the only city walls in Ireland to survive almost intact (visitderry.com; dawn–dusk; free).
MINI GUIDE
Outdoors in Northern Ireland
Ancient ruins rise from brooding landscapes and hiking paths weave through pretty seaside villages in this activity-rich land.
Activities
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CASTLE ESPIE BIRDWATCHING
Every October, vast flocks of up to 40,000 light-bellied brent geese arrive at Castle Espie reserve from Atlantic Canada; at other times of year it’s a haven for native geese, ducks and swans. Landscaped grounds are dotted with hides, and are a paradise for fledgling naturalists, with bird-feeding sessions. The reserve sits on the western shore of Strangford Lough (wwt.org.uk; 78 Ballydrain Rd, Co Down; 10am–5pm, to 5.30pm Sat–Sun May–Aug; US$9).
ULSTER AMERICAN FOLK PARK
In the 18th and 19th centuries thousands of people left Ulster for a new life across the Atlantic. Their story is told at one of Ireland’s best museums, which features a sprawling outdoor history park where exhibits are split into Old World and New World areas and come alive through reenactments (nmni. com/uafp; 2 Mellon Rd, Castletown; Tue–Sun Sep–Jun, daily Jul–Aug; US$11).
By the coast
ULSTER WAY HIKING
Circuiting all six counties of the North, as well as Donegal, the 625-mile Ulster Way is Ireland’s ultimate long-distance walking trail. It can easily be broken down into excellent day walks. One of the best is the 10-mile stretch between Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge (nationaltrust.org.uk; US$7.30) and Giant’s Causeway, though beware muddy clifftop sections in bad weather.
CUSHENDUN
This pretty seaside village is famous for its Cornish-style cottages, now owned by the National Trust. Built between 1912 and 1925, they were designed by Clough WilliamsEllis, the architect of Portmeirion in Wales. The village is also worth lingering in for its sandy beach, short walks (outlined on an information board beside the car park) and sea cliffs riddled with impressive caves – a Game of Thrones filming location.
The Pennsylvania Farmhouse at the Ulster American Folk Park
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GIANT’S CAUSEWAY
Passing Crichton Tower on tiny Gad Island in Upper Lough Erne
CANOEING LOUGH ERNE
In early Christian times, when overland travel was hard, Lough Erne was an important highway, and there are many ancient sites dotted around its shores. Birdlife is abundant, fishing is popular and it’s easy to hire day boats or canoes to explore the waterways – the sheltered backwaters of the Upper Lough are ideal for beginners and families. Share Canoe Hire can rent out canoes, kayaks and gear (sharevillage.org; canoe hire US$15 per hour).
When you first see it you’ll understand why the ancients believed the causeway was not a natural feature. The vast expanse of hexagonal stone columns – a national nature reserve and Northern Ireland’s only Unesco World Heritage site – looks for all the world like the handiwork of giants (nationaltrust.org.uk; causeway entry free, car park and visitor centre US$11).
PORTRUSH
The popular seaside resort of Portrush (Port Rois) offers good old-fashioned family fun with beautiful sandy beaches. It’s also home to one of Ireland’s top surfing centres; swells are highest and water warmest in September/October. The friendly Troggs Surf Shop offers bodyboard/surfboard hire, wetsuits, surf reports and advice all year round (troggs. com; 88 Main St; closed Sun mornings; two-hour surfing lesson US$37).
Some 40,000 basalt columns make up the Giant’s Causeway
NEWCASTLE & THE MOURNES
Gloriously set at the foot of the Mourne Mountains, the Victorian seaside resort of Newcastle has a sculpturestudded promenade and an elegant footbridge over the Shimna River. The surrounding mountains offer excellent hill walking and rock climbing; the Life Adventure Centre in nearby Castlewellan Forest Park offers all manner of outdoors activities (onegreatadventure.com).
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MINI GUIDE
Outdoors in Northern Ireland
Essentials
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Sleeping
The know-how GAME OF THRONES TRAIL
TRANSPORT
It is easiest to fly KLM from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur with one stopover in Amsteradm to get to Belfast city (from US$930; klm.com). Airport Express 300 buses run to Belfast city centre from both of its airports every 10–15 minutes (translink.co.uk; US$9.25). Northern Ireland’s bus Watermill Lodge’s thatched network is quite extensive but restaurant by Upper Lough Erne many of its outdoor areas of interest are not served by buses. Car hire is quite cheap at around the Upper Lough Erne guarantees a peaceful night at Watermill US$15 a day; the airport has a Lodge, with seven luxurious lakegood stash of car-hire agencies. view rooms and also the plush WHERE TO STAY Watermill Restaurant Villa Farmhouse is a lovely (watermillrestaurantfermanagh. old whitewashed farmhouse set com; Kilmore Quay; from US$111). A former Belfast bank given a on a hillside just north of feng-shui makeover, Ten Square Cushendun, with great views is an opulent, Shanghai-inspired over the bay and the warm boutique hotel with dark wood, atmosphere of a family home. futon-style beds and sumptuous The owner is an expert chef and linen. Former guests include breakfast will be a highlight of Bono and Brad Pitt (tensquare. your stay (thevillafarmhouse. co.uk; 10 Donegall Square; from com; 185 Torr Rd; from US$75). A secluded lakeside setting on US$155).
Sights
Filming locations from the epic TV series are dotted around Northern Ireland. Try a bus tour (gameofthronestours.com) or visit discovernorthernireland. com/gameofthrones. l Planted in the 18th century, the gnarled beech trees of the Dark Hedges (pictured below) are now famous after doubling as the Kingsroad (Ballymoney). l Castle Ward Estate in County Down, built in the 1760s, stars as Winterfell, seat of the Starks. There are entertaining guided tours (nationaltrust.org.uk). l The ancient redwoods in Tollymore Forest Park at the foot of the Mourne Mountains played the Haunted Forest, stalked by the White Walkers. l Downhill Strand, under the 18th-century Mussenden Temple, was where Melisandre burned the statues of the gods on the shore of Dragonstone.
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s Ireland (US$24.99) includes downloadable chapters (US$4.95 each; lonely planet.com) on all of Northern Ireland’s counties, as well as detailed information on outdoor activities. Reading the Irish Landscape (US$16; Town House) by Frank Mitchell and Michael Ryan chronicles Ireland’s formation through geology and history. Reading in the Dark (US$11; Vintage) is Seamus Deane’s fictional account of a young boy’s struggles in Belfast during the Troubles.
COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM CATHERINE LE NEVEZ AND RYAN VER BERKMOES. PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER UNGER/GETTY, STEPHEN BARNES/FARMING ALAMY, CANOE NI, JOE DAVID PRICE/GETTY, FRANK KRAHMER/GETTY IMAGES
Activities
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Tapas ALMENDRO 13
The Mercado de San Miguel is one of Madrid’s oldest markets
MINI GUIDE
MERCADO DE SAN MIGUEL
Madrid has become one of Europe’s culinary capitals and its atmospheric barrios are crammed with taverns, tapas bars and worldclass restaurants beloved by locals.
One of Madrid’s most beautiful markets, the Mercado de San Miguel has undergone a major renovation and is now an inviting space strewn with tables. The stalls are outstanding and you can order tapas and more substantial plates at most of the bar-counters (mercadodesanmiguel.es; Plaza de San Miguel; 10am–midnight Sun–Wed, 10am–2am Thu–Sat; tapas from US$1).
Local specialities
Fine-dining
Eating in Madrid
RESTAURANTE LOS GALAYOS
Most restaurants surrounding Plaza Mayor are tourist traps, but long-running Los Galayos, in the plaza’s southeastern corner, is an exception. It’s a good place to sample traditional cooking from around Spain, such as cocido madrileño, a kind of hearty meat and chickpea stew (losgalayos.net; Calle de Botoneros, 5; 1pm–midnight; mains from US$12.50). Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
La Latina is Madrid’s best barrio (district) for tapas. Head to the streets around Calle de la Cava Baja. Here you’ll find Almendro 13, a charming tavern where locals queue for traditional tapas with an emphasis on quality rather than frilly presentation (almendro13.com; Calle del Almendro, 13; 1–4pm & 7.30pm– midnight Mon–Fri, 1–5pm & 8pm– 1am Sat & Sun; tapas from US$4).
CASA PACO
The gaily painted exterior of this old Madrid tavern near Plaza Mayor, which opened in 1933, is hard to miss and the food is even harder to resist, especially the local Madrid specialities – callos, cocido and steak. The bar area, its walls lined with portraits of celebrity patrons, is also a good place for tapas or a wine (casapaco1933.es; Plaza de Puerta Cerrada, 11; 1–4pm & 8pm–midnight Mon–Sat, 1–4pm Sun; mains from US$11).
Cones of fried calamari and octopus at Mercado de San Miguel
CASA REVUELTA
Early on a Sunday afternoon Casa Revuelta, near Plaza Mayor, is packed and lively. Some of Madrid’s finest tapas are served here, and it’s famous for the callos (tripe), torreznos (bacon bits) and albóndigas (meatballs). Its tajadas de bacalao (battered cod) are the best in town (00 91 366 33 32; Calle de Latoneros, 3; 10.30am–4pm & 7–11pm Tue– Sat, 10.30am–4pm Sun, closed Mon & month of Aug; tapas from US$2.50).
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CASA LUCIO
Customers enjoy alfresco dining at Restaurante Los Galayos
CASA JULIO
Croquetas (croquettes) are one of Madrid’s best-loved tapas and Casa Julio’s version is among the city’s greatest. They’re that good that celebrities and mere mortals from all over Madrid flock to this bar in Malasaña, along with loyal locals. The place acquired a bit of a celebrity status when U2 did a photo shoot here some years ago (00 91 522 72 74; Calle de la Madera, 37; 1–3.30pm & 6.30–11pm Mon–Sat, closed Aug; 6/12 croquetas US$5/10).
Lucio in La Latina has wowed madrileños with his home-style cooking since 1974. Eggs and roasted meats are his speciality, and the guisos del día (stews of the day), are also popular. Casa Lucio draws a well-dressed crowd that has included the former king of Spain, Bill Clinton and Penélope Cruz (casalucio.es; Calle de la Cava Baja, 35; 1–4pm & 8.30pm– midnight, mains from US$17).
LA TERRAZA DEL CASINO
Perched atop the lavish Casino de Madrid building, this temple of haute cuisine is presided over by celebrity chef Paco Roncero and is the proud bearer of two Michelin stars. It’s all about culinary experimentation and the menu changes as each new idea emerges from the kitchen laboratory (casinodemadrid.es; Calle de Alcalá, 15; 1–3.15pm & 9pm–11pm Tue–Sat; mains from US$35).
The starkly white dining room at La Terraza del Casino restaurant
ARRIBA
Up on the 1st floor of the Platea development, this restaurant by the two-Michelin-starred chef Ramón Freixa has a bistro feel, with a what’s-fresh-in-themarket approach to cooking and dishes whose origins range from Catalonia to Andalucía. The food looks pretty though the tastes are reassuringly familiar (restaurantearriba.com; Calle de Goya, 5; 1.30–4pm & 8.30pm–midnight; mains from US$14).
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MINI GUIDE Eating in Madrid
Madrid essentials
WHERE TO STAY
A short step off the Paseo del Prado, Lapepa Chic b&b is a well-placed budget find. Modern art and bedheads lined with flamenco shoes give this place personality. Pricier rooms come with a view (lapepa-bnb. 88
The know-how ORDERING TAPAS
TRANSPORT
Take Qatar Airways from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur via Doha for the most direct flights to Madrid (from US$867; qatarairways.com). Madrid’s metro is a quick and easy way to get around the city (metromadrid.es). Trains run from the airport into town until 1.30am, and an Airport Express bus plies the route 24/7 (tickets for either cost US$5). A taxi will cost about US$31. Ten-trip Metrobús tickets cost US$12 and are valid for journeys on the metro and buses; the city centre is quite compact and walkable, and taxis are cheap by European standards.
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A row of flamenco shoes adds a fun focus to a bedroom at Lapepa
com; 7th fl, Plaza de las Cortes, 4; from US$68). Posada del León de Oro is a renovated inn on one of Madrid’s best-loved streets at the heart of La Latina’s tapas scene; the bar downstairs is terrific. Rooms are modern and in muted colours (posadadelleondeoro.com; Calle de la Cava Baja, 12; from US$161). For a five-star splurge, head to Old-World Hotel Orfila. The personal service is outstanding; guests can expect bathrobes embroidered with their initials. It’s in a quiet location with a sheltered garden (hotelorfila.com; Calle de Orfila, 6; from US$248).
Sleeping
Unless you speak Spanish, the art of ordering tapas can seem one of the dark arts of Spanish etiquette. Fear not – it’s not as difficult as it first appears. l Many tapas will be lined up along the bar. Either take a small plate and help yourself or point to the morsel you want and a barman will put it on a plate for you. Keep track of what you eat and then tell the bar staff how many you’ve had when it’s time to pay. l Alternatively, many places have a list of tapas on a menu or above the bar. If you can’t choose, ask for ‘la especialidad de la casa’ (house speciality) and it’s hard to go wrong. l Another way of eating tapas is to order more filling raciones (large tapas servings) or medias raciones (half of a racion serving). l In some bars you’ll also be given a free bite-sized tapa when you order a drink.
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s Madrid (US$22.99) is a comprehensive guide to the city; Pocket Madrid (US$13.99) is a compact version for weekend trips. Find Madrid in Lonely Planet’s free Guides app on iTunes. For a glimpse into the world of post-Spanish Civil War Madrid, read the gripping spy thriller Winter in Madrid by CJ Sansom (US$9.90; Pan). Also check out Madrid Chow – a lighthearted food and drink blog run by the English co'founder of Devour Spain food tours (madridchow. com).
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Eating
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Classical crossroads SYRACUSE
Syracuse encapsulates Sicily’s timeless beauty: ancient Greek ruins rise out of citrus orchards, café tables spill onto Baroque piazzas, and honey-hued medieval lanes lead down to the sparkling blue sea. The ruins of the original metropolis, dating to 734 BC, now constitute the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis (Viale Paradiso; 9am– dusk Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun; US$10.50, incl museum US$14).
MINI GUIDE
AGRIGENTO
Historic Sicily
History-lovers will be in their element in Sicily, where Baroque beauty takes centre stage and ancient civilisations have left their mark in hilltop towns, craggy castles and plains filled with ancient remains.
Byzantine to Baroque NOTO
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Noto is a Baroque belle so gorgeous you might mistake it for a film set, with one of Sicily’s most beautiful historic centres. The pièce de résistance is Corso Vittorio Emanuele, an elegant walkway flanked by palazzi and churches. Dashing at any time of the day, it’s especially hypnotic in the early evening, when the red-gold buildings seem to glow with a soft inner light.
MODICA
With its steeply stacked medieval centre and showpiece Baroque cathedral, World Heritage-listed Modica is one of Sicily’s most atmospheric towns. An important Greek and Roman city, Modica’s heyday came in the 14th century when, as the personal fiefdom of the Chiaramonte family, it was one of the most powerful cities on the island. The high point of a trip to Modica is the glitzy Duomo di San Giorgio, which stands in splendour at the top of a majestic 250-step staircase.
The Valle dei Templi, splendidly arrayed along Agrigento’s crags, is the granddaddy of Sicilian ancient sites. The park takes in the temple ruins of what was once the Greek city of Akragas, and also includes a superb museum. The enthralling Temple of Concordia has survived almost intact since it was built in 430 BC (valleyofthetemples. com; 8.30am–7pm year-round, late-night hours mid-Jul–mid-Sep; US$10.50, incl museum US$14).
The so-called ‘bikini girls’ mosaic at the Villa Romana del Casale
VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE
Languishing in Sicily’s interior, this villa was sumptuous even by decadent Roman standards. Following a landslide in the 12th century, the villa lay buried until its well-preserved mosaics were discovered in the 1950s. They are considered remarkable for their natural, narrative style, subject matter and variety of colour (villaromanadelcasale.it; 9am–7pm, to 5pm Nov–Mar; US$10.50).
Norman strongholds
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PALERMO
Modica’s Duomo di San Giorgio is typical of Sicilian Baroque style
CEFALÙ
Cefalù’s cathedral is one of the jewels in Sicily’s Arab-Norman crown. Filling the central apse, a towering figure of Christ All Powerful is the focal point of the elaborate Byzantine mosaics. Enjoy the view of the cathedral’s soaring towers, which frame the cliffs of La Rocca behind them, over a morning coffee or evening aperitif in the Piazza del Duomo (cattedraledicefalu.com; 8am–6pm Apr–Oct, 8am–1pm & 3.30pm–5pm Mon–Sat Nov– Mar, 3.30pm–5pm Sun Nov– Mar; free).
The capital delivers a heady mix of mosaics, Arabesque domes and frescoed cupolas. The centerpiece is the Palazzo dei Normanni, where the sparkling mosaics of King Roger II’s bedroom are only a prelude to the Cappella Palatina – one of the island’s most dazzling sights (federicosecondo.org; Piazza Indipendenza; 8.15am–5.40pm Mon–Sat, to 1pm Sun; Fri–Mon US$12.40, Tue–Thu US$10.50).
ERICE
This mesmerising walled medieval town looks out from a giddy 750m summit, and is home to a famous pastry shop, Maria Grammatico. Erice was a centre for the cult of Venus, but the Normans built over its landmark temple in the 12th and 13th centuries to create the dramatically sited Castello di Venere (fondazioneericearte. org/castellodivenere.php; 10am–dusk daily Apr–Oct, 10am–4pm Sat & holidays Nov–Mar; US$4).
Castello di Caccamo looks out from a crag on the north coast
CACCAMO
Lorded over by its imposing castle, Castello di Caccamo (US$4; 9am–1pm & 3pm–7pm Tue–Sun), this hilltop town is a popular day trip from Palermo. Though the area was settled in ancient times, Caccamo was officially founded in 1093, when the Normans began building their fortress on a rocky spur of Monte San Calogero. The castle was enlarged in the 14th century and is now one of Italy’s largest and most impressive.
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MINI GUIDE Historic Sicily
Sicily essentials
WHERE TO STAY
Three miles east of Erice in Valderice, Baglio Santa Croce is a 17th-century manor house set in citrus groves, complete with pool. Rooms in the old stone building are lovely; those in the modern extension are less charming (bagliosantacroce.it; from US$99). 90
The know-how SICILY’S OVERLORDS
TRANSPORT
It is easier to get to Sicily's Palermo airport in the northwest from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur. National carrier Alitalia flies from both with two stops in Abu Dhabi and Rome (from US$1,190; alitalia.com). Getting around the island by bus or train can be difficult and time-consuming; it’s preferable to hire a car, and the major rental firms are all represented at Palermo and Catania airports. That said, driving is not stress-free: prepare for incomprehensible one-way systems, narrow medieval streets and nightmarish parking.
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The ‘Geometria’ room at Suite d’Autore in central Sicily
With lime-green polystyrene furniture and 19th-century frescoes, Suite d’Autore is an unusual design hotel in Piazza Armerina, near the Villa Romana del Casale. Each of its seven rooms is differently styled (suitedautore.it; Via Monte 1; from US$111). BB22 is a b&b in name only. Palermo’s most gorgeous small hotel is a little palace of luxury, with welcoming hosts, elegant rooms and quirky designer lamps. It’s tucked away on a backstreet in the Vucciria quarter (bb22.it; Via Pantelleria 22; from US$130).
Sleeping
The Greeks Cities including Syracuse and Agrigento are founded from 735 BC onwards. The Romans In 241 BC, Rome overcomes its superpower rival Carthage and conquers Sicily. The Byzantines The island passes from the Ostrogoths to the Byzantines in 535 AD. The Saracens An Arab army lands at Mazara del Vallo in 827 and goes on to take Sicily. The Normans Robert Guiscard seizes Palermo from the Saracens in 1072; the island’s most prosperous era ensues (coin of Frederick II pictured). The Spanish A violent uprising in 1282 overthrows the Frenchborn king and Peter of Aragon takes control, initiating more than 500 years of Spanish rule. The Italians The revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi lands in Marsala, and in 1861 Sicily becomes part of a unified Italy under Victor Emmanuel II.
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s Sicily guide (US$21.99) recommends sights, restaurants and activities across the island. Sicily’s greatest novel is the 1950s The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa (US$12; Vintage Classics), which examines the impact of mid-19thcentury Italian unification on Sicilian culture through the eyes of an ageing aristocrat. The Norman Centuries podcast by Lars Brownworth explores how the Normans transformed Palermo into a powerhouse (normancenturies. com).
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Sights
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Landmarks SPACE NEEDLE
The Seattle skyline, with the futuristic Space Needle seen to the fore
MINI GUIDE
Offbeat Seattle
An endless appetite for displays of creativity, a musical ear and some truly zany monuments make Seattle a diverting getaway for lovers of counter-culture, fun and sights that must be seen to be believed.
Art & sculpture CHIHULY GARDEN & GLASS
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This exquisite exposition of the life and work of local glass sculptor Dale Chihuly requires a sharp intake of breath on first viewing. The masterpieces, split between an exhibition centre, a glasshouse and a garden, reflect Chihuly’s influences, most notably Native American art, Puget Sound sea life and boats (chihulygardenandglass.com; 305 Harrison St; US$2.50).
FREMONT PUBLIC ART
The neighbourhood of Fremont does bizarre like the rest of the world does normal. Nowhere is this more evident than in its weird and wonderful public art. The five most famous pieces are scattered around the southern part of the neighbourhood abutting the Lake Washington Ship Canal. Of particular note are a provocative bronze statue of Lenin (cnr N 36th St & Fremont Pl N); the Fremont Troll (cnr N 36th St & Troll Ave N); and Waiting for the Interurban (cnr N 34th St & Fremont Ave N).
Seattle’s modern-before-itstime tower built for the 1962 World’s Fair has been the city’s defining symbol for more than 50 years and over a million visitors head to its flyingsaucer-like observation deck each year. Note, if you have a meal in the rotating SkyCity Restaurant atop the Needle, the entry fee will be waived (spaceneedle.com; 400 Broad St, Seattle Center; from US$21.
PIKE PLACE MARKET
Century-old Pike Place is a living community, a cabaret show, a way of life and an intrinsic piece of Seattle’s soul. Watch out for fish flying through the air in the Main & North Arcades where fresh produce is piled high; add your contribution to the artistic ‘gum wall’; and browse shops that look like they’ve sprung from a Harry Potter movie (pikeplacemarket.org; btwn Virginia St & Union St & 1st Ave & Western Ave).
The Seattle Center Monorail takes passengers to the Space Needle
EMP MUSEUM
Designed to resemble an electric guitar, the Experience Music Project (EMP) is a marriage of modern architecture and rock ‘n’ roll history. Founded by Microsoft co-creator Paul Allen, created by Canadian-born architectural rock star Frank O Gehry and inspired by the music of Seattle-born guitar icon Jimi Hendrix, it includes a Sound Lab where you can jam in a studio (empmuseum.org; 325 5th Ave N, Seattle Center; US$25).
Munchies
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THE CRUMPET SHOP
The Glasshouse is the centrepiece of Chihuly Garden & Glass
OLYMPIC SCULPTURE PARK
Hovering over train tracks, in an unlikely oasis between the water and busy Elliott Ave, this US$80 million sculpture park shows how to make the most of limited urban space. More than 20 large pieces of sculpture dot the landscape, including Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen’s Typewriter Eraser, Scale X, with its weird blue sprouts bristling over Elliott Ave, and Alexander Calder’s 39ft-tall The Eagle (seattleartmuseum.org; 2901 Western Ave; free).
Take a treasured British culinary invention and give it an American twist (ridiculously lavish toppings) and you’ve got a compelling reason to have your breakfast in Pike Place Market. Join the queue for crumpets made before your eyes and embellished with ricotta, marmalade, pesto and Marmite (thecrumpetshop.com; 1503 1st Ave; 7am–3pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 4pm Fri–Sun; crumpets US$3).
TOP POT HANDFORGED DOUGHNUTS
Those who can walk past this café without going in deserve a medal. Top Pot’s doughnuts are in a different class, and its cafés – especially this one in an old car showroom with floor-toceiling library shelves and Art Deco signage – are equally legendary. The coffee’s pretty potent too (toppotdoughnuts. com; 2124 5th Ave; 6am–7pm Mon–Fri, from 7am Sat–Sun; doughnuts from US$1.25).
An array of flavours at Top Pot Hand-forged Doughnuts
SERIOUS PIE
Award-winning chef and local culinary phenomenon Tom Douglas has taken the down-toearth Italian pizza and given it a gourmet spin in this Belltown diner. The crowded communal tables and weird pizza toppings are popular: here you can enjoy crusty bases crowned by the likes of clams, kale, potato, apple and pistachios (seriouspieseattle. com; 316 Virginia St; 11am–11pm; pizzas from US$16).
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MINI GUIDE Offbeat Seattle
MUSIC TO YOUR EARS
TRANSPORT
WHERE TO STAY
Old-world and allegedly haunted, the Moore Hotel is in a prime location near the Seattle Center. There’s a sweet café on the premises and you can practically hold your breath and walk to Pike Place Market 92
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Eating
Sleeping
The know-how
Essentials The shortest flights are on EVA Air from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur via Taipei (from US$1,012; evaair.com). The Link Light Rail connects the airport to downtown; trains run every 15 minutes (US$3; soundtransit.org). Taxis are about US$38 to downtown. Public buses, streetcars, light rail and water taxis are good-value (single from US$1). Bus schedules and maps are available at metro.king county.gov. Bike lanes are also commonplace in Seattle and many hotels offer free bikes; try the scenic Burke-Gilman Trail, which passes through Fremont.
Sights
Hotel Five’s lobby, where guests enjoy afternoon coffee and cake
(moorehotel.com; 1926 2nd Ave; from US$80). Hotel Five in Belltown mixes ’70s furniture with sharp colour accents to produce something dazzlingly modern. The reception area invites lingering, especially when free cupcakes and coffee are laid out (hotelfiveseattle.com; 2200 5th Ave; from US$136). Perched on a pier, Edgewater was once the hotel of choice for rock bands such as The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and, most infamously, Led Zeppelin, who filled their suite with sharks (edgewaterhotel.com; 2411 Alaskan Way; from US$235).
Seattle’s musical heritage is legendary: the jazz era produced Ray Charles, rock delivered Jimi Hendrix and then Nirvana brought us grunge. Crocodile Everyone who’s anyone in Seattle’s music scene (including Nirvana) has played at this clamorous 525-capacity venue. There’s also a pizza restaurant (thecrocodile.com). Tractor Tavern The premier venue for folk and acoustic music, with a gorgeous room that has top sound quality (tractortavern.com). Neumo’s A legendary punk, hip-hop and alternativemusic venue that counts Radiohead and Bill Clinton among its former guests (neumos.com). Shorty’s This dive bar is all about beer, pinball and punk and metal music. It keeps the lights low and the music loud. Pinball machines are built into every table (shortydog.com).
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s Seattle (US$21.99) is a comprehensive guide to the city, including suggested walking tours, itineraries and day trips. Find Seattle in Lonely Planet’s free Guides app on iTunes. Stranger is Seattle’s best (and free!) newspaper for up-to-date entertainment listings (thestranger.com). For an illuminating insight into Seattle’s high-tech boom, read Waxwings by Jonathan Raban (US$12; Picador), told through the parallel stories of two immigrants.
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Shopping
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Dining FERIA DE MATADEROS
The Parque Tres de Febrero is a popular spot for cycling
PARRILLA PEÑA
MINI GUIDE
Sexy, alive and confident, Buenos Aires is a fun city in which to discover characterful barrios, dine out on steak and then party ’til dawn – even if you’re counting your pennies.
Argentina’s parrillas (steakhouses) are legendary and this simple, traditional option in central BA serves excellent-quality meats and generous portions. The service is fast and efficient and, best of all, it’s great value. Don’t expect many tourists – this is a local’s sort of place. Also on offer are delicious pastas, desserts and wines (parrillapenia.url.ph; Rodríguez Peña 682; noon–4pm & 8pm–midnight; mains from US$4.95).
Sights
Nightlife
Budget Buenos Aires
CEMENTERIO DE LA RECOLETA
This cemetery is one of BA’s top attractions; the tomb of Eva Perón (Evita) is here, though it’s not the grandest in this amazing city of the dead, where ‘streets’ are lined with statues and mausoleums. Presidents, military heroes, politicians and the rich and famous are buried here. Free tours are offered in English at 11am Tues and Thur (Junín 1760; 8am–6pm). Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines
In the working-class barrio of Mataderos, this folk market is a celebration of Argentine country traditions. Folk singers, dancers and gauchos entertain while food stalls dish out hearty dishes such as locro (a corn and meat stew) and empanadas. From downtown, take bus 155 or 126 to the market (feriademataderos.com.ar; 11am–8pm Sun Apr–mid-Dec, 6pm–midnight Sat Jan–mid-Mar).
SAN TELMO
Elegant Belle Époque architecture and crumbling villas are throwbacks to San Telmo’s 19th-century heyday, and today the district is a beguiling mix of faded grandeur and bohemian spirit. Take a wander along Defensa or Balcarce streets towards leafy Parque Lezama, soaking up picturesque vistas of romantic façades and drooping balconies as you window-shop for antiques. On Sundays, a popular street fair takes over the main drag (from 10am).
Meat on the barbecue at the local Feria de Mataderos market
EL SANJUANINO
This long-running, cosy little joint has the cheapest food in Recoleta, attracting pennypinching locals and thrifty tourists. Sit upstairs or in the basement and order spicy empanadas, tamales or locro. The curved brick ceiling adds to the intimate atmosphere, but many ask for their food to go – the lovely parks of Recoleta are just a couple of blocks away (elsanjuanino.com.ar; Posadas 1515; noon–4pm & 7pm–1am; mains from US$4.95).
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LA GLORIETA
Shops and houses in the street known as Caminito, in La Boca
LA BOCA’S CAMINITO
Rough-and-tumble La Boca, with its brightly painted tenement shacks, was the city’s principal port until Puerto Madero was created in the late 19th century. The block-long cobbled Caminito (‘little walkway’) is the barrio’s most famous street and an open-air museum. These days it’s touristy but still a lovely place to stroll, crowded with art stalls, tango dancers and sculptures. It’s even possible to explore the inside of some conventillos (tenements), such as the one at Magallanes 861.
Tango’s popularity is booming in the Argentine capital but the elaborate tango shows are pricey and touristy. Instead, porteños (Buenos Aires residents) head to dance events called milongas to strut their stuff. Join locals at the outdoor bandstand in Barrancas de Belgrano, where the casual milonga La Glorieta takes place on weekends (Barrancas de Belgrano; around 6pm–7pm Fri–Sun).
MAGDALENA’S PARTY If you want to find the action, head to Palermo Soho, the city’s trendiest neighbourhood. At its heart, Plaza Serrano is a small, popular square surrounded by bars, including Magdalena’s Party. DJs play Thursday to Saturday nights and happy hour runs from noon ’til midnight. On weekends, you can nurse a hangover over brunch (fb.com/ magdalenasparty; Thames 1795; noon–3am Thu–Sat, to 6pm Sun).
Cocktails in all colours, shapes and sizes at Magdalena’s Party
FLUX
Everyone’s welcome at this gay bar run by a friendly Englishman and his Russian partner. The large basement has an arty feel and there’s a daily happy hour from 7pm till 10pm. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Buenos Aires iced tea, which is made with Fernet, a popular Argentine mixer that’s something of an acquired taste (fluxbarbuenosaires.blogspot. co.uk; Marcelo T de Alvear 980; from 7pm daily).
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MINI GUIDE
Budget Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires essentials
WHERE TO STAY
America del Sur is a hostel in San Telmo and the fanciest of its kind in BA. As well as dorms there are private rooms, better than those in many mid-range hotels. There’s also a bar-bistro area and a patio (americahostel.com.ar; 94
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A bright dorm room at Eco Pampa, with towels and soaps for guests
Chacabuco 718; from US$56). Four large rooms and an on-site host make Yira Yira Guesthouse an intimate apartment-home for travellers. The high-ceilinged rooms (with shared bathrooms) face the living area and tiny patio. It’s well located (yirayiraba.com; Uruguay 911 No 1b; from US$62). Claiming to be Buenos Aires’ first ‘green’ hostel, Eco Pampa is a casual spot sporting vintage furniture, roomy dorms and eight private en suite bedrooms. The rooftop has a veggie garden and solar panels (hostelpampa.com.ar; Guatemala 4778; from US$62).
Sights
Eating
Sleeping
The know-how GREEN SPACES
TRANSPORT
Flights from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur are relatively direct. Take Emirates with one stop in Dubai from either city to reach Buenos Aires Ezeiza Airport (from US$1,472; emirates.com). Frequent shuttle buses, operated by various companies, leave the airport for the city centre (tickets US$4.95; one hour). Buenos Aires has a huge, complex bus system; for information in English on how to get to your destination by bus, see omnilineas.com. Fares are cheap but if you’re staying a while, buying a reloadable pay-as-yougo SUBE card will make it even cheaper (sube.gob.ar).
Entertainment
British winter is summertime in Argentina and the city has lots of plazas and parks to escape to when the mercury rises. Reserva Ecológica Constanera Sur A landfill site in Puerto Madero that’s become a haven for wildlife and nature-seekers. You can rent bikes by the north or south entrances (Av Tristán Achaval Rodríguez 1550). Parque Tres de Febrero Laced with miles of bike trails, this park in Palermo also has a rose garden, planetarium and lakes. Visit the Jardín Japonés, Jardín Zoológico and Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays (cnr Avs del Libertador & de la Infanta Isabel). Parque Lezama A slightly scruffy spot in San Telmo that hosts chess-playing men, bookworms toting Argentine tea (mate) and teenagers kissing on benches. It’s also home to a striking 19th-century Russian Orthodox church.
FURTHER READING
Lonely Planet’s Buenos Aires city guide (US$21.99) has recommendations for getting under the skin of Argentina’s capital, as well as features on nightlife, eating and tango. Find Buenos Aires in Lonely Planet’s free Guides app on iTunes. The Tango Singer by Tomás Eloy Martínez (US$12; Bloomsbury) is the tale of an American student who becomes immersed in BA’s world of tango, trying to track down a legendary singer. Pickupthefork.com is a food-centric online guide to the city, with a section dedicated to cheap eats.
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Drinking
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Travel Quiz
What on Earth?
2
Which country is the setting for Gabriel García Márquez’s novel One Hundred Years of Solitude?
1
3
It’s 100 years since the last tsar of Russia abdicated. What was his official St Petersburg residence?
4
Which capital is home to the Hundertwasserhaus?
5
If you dial 100 in India, who would you expect to be calling?
7
Which scientist, writer and politician is shown on the US$100 bill?
8
The US bought the Danish Virgin Islands exactly a century ago. To which country does the other half of the Virgin Islands belong?
6
Which former British colony in Africa (capital: Freetown) joined the UN in 1961 as its 100th state?
9
So-called century eggs, also known as thousand year eggs, are a feature of which cuisine?
Mauritania has a rare national flag with no red, white or blue in it. Which country has the only other such flag?
1) CROATIA. 2) COLOMBIA. 3) THE WINTER PALACE. 4) VIENNA. 5) POLICE. 6) SIERRA LEONE. 7) BENJAMIN FRANKLIN. 8) UK. 9) CHINESE CUISINE.
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APRIL 2017
COMPILED BY RORY GOULDING AND PETER GRUNERT. PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIC NATHAN/ALAMY, MAX SHEN/GETTY IMAGES, RENAUD VISAGE/GETTY IMAGES, IVAN VDOVIN/ALAMY, DUNCAN VERE GREEN/ALAMY, KOSMOZOO/GETTY, JOE/SARTORE/GETTY, ALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES, BONCHAN/ISTOCK/GETTY
‘Centurions’ often pose for photos inside the ruins of the Palace of Diocletian in Split. Which country is this in?
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