Standup Paddle Magazine by Reid Inouye Media

B OA R D B U IL DE R : : RIVIERA’S TAYLOR RAMBO

SU RF LEGEN D:: IAN CAIRNS

WATE RM A N: : MICKEY MUÑOZ

S TA N D U P P A D D L E M A G A Z I N E V O L 7 N º 2

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FINDING VIETNAM

VIETNAM

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D E ST I N AT I O N Q UY NHĂ&#x201C; N

: : V I ETNAM::

This is one of the many stops on our quest to find waves on central Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winding coast. Although this wave was little and running along the beach, Tommy Lloy realized he could get a couple nose rides for the local crowd of kids that had gathered to see what we were up to.

Photo: Erik Anderson

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M A ST H E A D VOLUME 7 Nº2

PUBLISHER Reid Inouye EDITOR Paul Ensyde MANAGING EDITOR Lucy Lucille COPY EDITOR Kersten Wehde DESIGN First in Flight Creative

ADVISORS NUTRITION COACH Scott Estrada YOGA INSTRUCTOR Jeramie Vaine TRAINERS Thomas “Maximus” Shahinian Tom Jones

STAFF WRITERS Jim Freeman, Eric Haka STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Jim Freeman, Eric Haka CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Mark Salvetti, Wendy Solano, Erik Anderson SALES sales@standuppaddlemagazine.com EDITORIAL AND CONTRIBUTION CONTACT info@standuppaddlemagazine.com SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION $59.95 includes shipping in the United States of America. Printed bimonthly February, April, June, August, October and December. subscriptions@standuppaddlemagazine.com

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PUB NOTE

24 HOURS STRAIGHT UP ON THE WATER: ROB ROJASâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; PADDLE FOR OCEAN OF HOPE

Photo: Mike Muir

Photo: Paul Ensyde

Standing on a board for 24 hours is nothing new for San Clemente’s Rob Rojas; he’s done it before. But this year, it really touched him emotionally, as well as those around him. Especially close to him is his 10-year-old son, Conrad, who paddled the first 23 miles of his journey from Newport Aquatic Center to Dana Point Harbor. Says Rojas, “This 24-hour paddle for Ocean of Hope has forever changed me. I am a different person today than I was before I took that first stroke on February 7. The night before the paddle I didn’t sleep very well. I woke up almost every hour, as I was continually thinking about what the conditions were going to be like and how I was going to handle the different stages of fatigue, both mentally and physically. I knew I was going to be well outside of my comfort zone, but I also knew it was still way better than dealing with a cancer diagnosis and chemotherapy treatments. In addition, I was also excited because my 10-year-old son told me two days beforehand that he wanted to paddle the stretch from Newport Aquatic Center to Dana Point Harbor with me.” “At 4:30 a.m., the alarm went off. I woke up and started milling about the house, getting all of the essentials ready. I woke up my son, C-Rad, and off we went at 5:45 to go meet Mike Muir and Scott Shannon from Riviera Paddlesurf in Dana Point Harbor, where they gave us a ride up to Newport. As we were driving up the coast, the fog looked thick and the air was chilly.” “The event started right when we arrived, where we met with Ocean of Hope’s Aimee Spector, conducted an interview and immediately got on the water. At this point, my perspective changed when I met Wally Buckingham, Ocean of Hope team member, who is currently fighting cancer. Wally told me he was going to paddle with me that evening. His inspiration was my fuel.” “C-Rad and I started making our way out of the harbor on our RP 14’ and 12’6”, and rendered aid to a flipped surf ski paddler. After that, we started our trek down the coast to Dana. The ocean was a little bit confused due to the decent-sized west-south-west swell hitting the coast. C-Rad remained strong and determined to finish this 23-mile portion of the 24-hour paddle. I can’t even begin to say how impressed I was with his determination and mental strength. My son is my hero.” “When we arrived in Dana Point, we were greeted by a multitude

of family members, friends and supporters. One of our supporters, Jeanette Shue, brought a heaping pot of chicken long rice stew that hit the spot. I quickly downed about three bowls of the stew and continued on with the event inside of the harbor. Later in the evening, Erik Benitez cooked his world-famous carnitas over an open fire and Mama C came at 3 a.m. with her wonton soup. I would not have fared well if it were not for these amazing people.” “The entire evening was filled with amazing people who supported me on my journey. It truly was a journey, where people came from all over and told me how cancer had affected their lives. All evening, I was getting messages on my phone from people telling me how cancer has affected them. That was my fuel to keep going. The people who showed up at all hours of the night to paddle with me were my fuel to keep me going. The list is long and I am forever grateful.” “I do have to give a special shout-out to three friends of mine: Wally Buckingham, Wayne Buckingham and Bill Kindel, who showed up to paddle. Two of them are currently fighting cancer and kicking its ass, while one has recently been declared cancer-free. I couldn’t imagine doing this while undergoing chemotherapy. Those three are my inspiration.” “At 7 a.m. when I finished, I was greeted by many supporters and a nice Paddle Academy Potluck breakfast. I was exhausted and I was emotionally overwhelmed because the previous 24 hours were filled with people coming forward with their experiences, their recent victories against the disease, their current battles and their show of support for the cause.” “I am a changed man because of this event. Cancer affects us all and I know if we all get involved in some way, shape or form, we will get that much closer to winning the war against the disease. I am eternally grateful and very blessed to be a part of this community of people who care so much for each other.” “I thank you all.”

Reid Inouye Publisher Standup Paddle Magazine

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C O N T E N TS V O L U M E

7 N º 2

: : 2015: : 22

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

HOW TO Scott Estrada: Eating for Longevity Thomas Maximus: Entering and Exiting Flat Water Jeramie Vaine: Protecting Your Back, Stretching Your Legs Tom Jones: Hamstring Slides

CENTRAL COSTA RICA Simple Concepts

IAN CAIRNS The Stoke Is Back

RIVIERA’S TAYLOR RAMBO Breaks Down the Line

MICKEY MUÑOZ Standing and Riding After All These Years

FINDING VIETNAM A SUP Surf Discovery

QUIVERS & WHEELS

On this page: Jack Archer times the sets while mesmerized by the breaking wave. Truly a moment of Pura Vida along the central coast of Costa Rica. Photo: Mark Salvetti

O N T H E C OV E R : Tommy Lloy is becoming quite the seasoned international traveler these days. Equipped with his Riviera Nugg and inflat ables, he utilizes his quiver well and finds a fun left-hander. B oth villagers and fishermen follow his walk-onwater act. Pho to : E r ik An d e r s o n

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HO W TO HE A LT H w i t h Scott Estrada

THE MAGIC OF COCONUTS :: Eating for Longevity The coconut palm plant has been around since prehistoric times and is related to grasses in that it thrives next to the ocean and is salt-tolerant. The coconut is the tree’s giant seed, and like grasses, it can absorb nearly every mineral in the soil that can nourish a human.

Now grown and cultivated all over the tropics, the densest coconut region lies in the Philippines, which have the most production of any nation on the globe. In Sanskrit, the ancient language of India, coconuts are called kalpa vriksha, or “the tree that supplies all that is needed to live.” They are a superfood gift from nature and are deeply nourishing. No matter how much damage you’ve done with poor nutrition in the past, every part of this giant seed—the young flesh, water, cream and oil—will bring life back to your cells. Like a water filter, it takes about nine months for the mineralized water to reach the sterile shell inside the coconut, filling it with electrolytes very similar to those in our own blood plasma. Our blood is 55 percent plasma and 45 percent hemoglobin, the molecular makeup of which is similar to chlorophyll. That’s why green juice, or super-green formulas and coconut water, are like a nutritional blood transfusion! When coconuts are young and their inner meat is still “spoonable” and soft, they are the most health-enhancing, filled with mostly pure saturated fat that can rejuvenate oxidative tissue damage and support nervous system function. The meat of mature coconuts—the brown, hairy nuts— that we see in markets contains about three to four times more fiber than veggies, making it tough to unlock the healthy oils. That’s why young coconuts are much easier to digest and better for the absorption of healthy oils. These healthy oils contain medium chain fatty acids (MCFAs), which can be metabolized efficiently and converted into energy quickly, unlike saturated animal-based fats. This was first learned in the early 1900s, when farmers tried coconut fat to fatten up their animals to make more profits. They found it made them lean and very active, which was not the result they wanted at slaughter time. This was the shift to feed livestock corn and soy to slow their thyroid, causing them to gain weight and slow down. This is now standard industry practice, and livestock feed is mainly GMO-sourced.

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HERE ARE SOME HEALTH BENEFITS OF CONSUMING COCONUT FLESH, BUTTER (CREAM) AND OIL: • Improve digestion/absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, amino acids and omega 3s

• Build immune system as the fatty acids are naturally antimicrobial, antiviral and antifungal

COOKING Using coconut oil for cooking in place of canola, other highly processed veggie oils or even olive oil, is a wise choice. It’s naturally tolerant to higher heat, whereas other oils tend to denature and break down into unstable compounds under higher cooking temperatures, making it difficult for the liver to metabolize. This can ultimately lead to congestion in the liver and gall bladder.

• Balance blood sugar and total blood chemistry lipid support

• Improve the right kind of calcium/magnesium ion absorption

• Provide quick energy • Access the highest lauric acid content of any plant source (lauric acid is found in high amounts in breast milk; it’s a very antiviral compound)

• Regulate and support healthy hormone production

• Increase the speed of the thyroid and teach the body to burn its own stored body fat as fuel

• Support cardiovascular heath • Promote healthy skin from the inside and out, because coconuts don’t create free radicals

A SIDE NOTE ABOUT COCONUT WATER As the popularity of coconut water grows, it’s important to note that it doesn’t replace the need for regular drinking water. It’s a tool for replenishment of electrolytes but regular drinking water should still be sourced clean and consumed. If you’ve never opened a young coconut to eat the ﬂesh inside, try it! It’s delicious! Create your own coconut milk by blending coconut ﬂesh and the water inside, or use it as the base of a smoothie! Find simple tutorials online to learn how to safely open a coconut using a cleaver or butcher knife. If you’re living or traveling in the tropics, try eating two to four young coconuts daily and notice how good you feel! Eating 2-4 tablespoons daily of coconut oil in your cooking, smoothies, desserts, etc., is a simple way to increase your performance on many levels! Make this incredible superfood a part of your daily intake and strategy for health, vitality and longevity! Paddle on, people!

For more information on this or any health/nutrition topic, contact Scott Estrada at scott@risesup.com.

RIVIERA BUMP - PERFORMANCE PADDLES ;OL )<47 WHKKSL ZOHYLZ [OL ZHTL ISHKL ZOHWL HUK ZOHM[ HZ V\Y =HU[HNL WHKKSL OV^L]LY P[ MLH[\YLZ H YHPZLK JHYIVU ÄILY ^LH]L HYV\UK P[Z ZOHM[ NP]PUN P[ H [L_[\YLK MLLS MVY PUJYLHZLK NYPW (): LKNPUN HYV\UK [OL ISHKL MVY K\YHIPSP[` HUK JVTLZ Z[HUKHYK ^P[O V\Y ,YNV )\TW /HUKSL MVY HKKLK JVU[YVS HUK JVTMVY[ ;OL )<47 WHKKSL OHZ H ^L[ ZHUK ÄUPZO [V HKK L]LU TVYL NYPW ZH]L ^LPNO[ HUK NP]L P[ H Z[LHS[O SVVR (]HPSHISL PU ¹ ¹ ¹ ISHKL ^PK[OZ

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HO W TO TRAINING with Thomas “Maximus” Shahinian

ENTERING AND EXITING FLAT WATER:: Stand-up paddleboarding’s explosive worldwide growth is due to its accessibility, versatility and affordability. It’s also super-fun, a great workout and generally safe in most conditions, although injuries can occur when entering or exiting the water. In most cases, these injuries are easily avoided.

When entering a flat body of water, attach your leash to your leg at the water’s edge. Carry the board with one hand and hold the paddle shaft with the other hand (handle down, blade up for bracing).

Place the paddle shaft across the width of the board in front of where you’ll be standing. Slowly weight the board while mounting on your knees to avoiding damaging the fin in water that’s too shallow. After safely mounting the board, it’s good practice to take a few strokes while on your knees and paddle to deeper water before standing to adjust your balance and position, and to avoid injury in the event of an accidental fall on a shallow, uneven bottom.

Slowly wade into the water till you’re at least knee-deep to ensure you don’t snag the fin upon mounting the board. Be cautious of uneven bottom contours. In some circumstances you may want to shuffle your feet while entering the water to avoid encounters with marine life, or use the top of the paddle to probe ahead and as a brace.

Dismounting the board is basically the preceding text in reverse. Slowly approach the shore and lower from a standing position to your knees. Gently probe the bottom with your paddle before stepping off the board. Regardless of how familiar you are with your paddling spot, bottom conditions change and marine life move. I’ve seen both beginners and experienced paddlers dislocate shoulders and roll ankles, sometimes requiring surgeries, as well as accidentally encountering stingrays.

[NOTE: THESE TIPS ARE ABBREVIATED AND FURTHER EXPANDED IN PADDLE CLINICS WITH THOMAS MAXIMUS] *UPCOMING ARTICLE: ENTERING AND EXITING THE WATER WITH WAVES, WIND AND CURRENT.

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Riviera team rider Thomas Maximus has more than 144 SUP races under his belt since 2008 and actively does individual and group paddle clinics.

HOW TO YOG A w i t h Je ramie Vaine

WIDE-LEGGED FORWARD FOLD:: Protect your back, stretch your legs Discomfort in the lower back is usually what the mind ﬁrst notices while paddling. But is this really where the issue is? Each person’s body is different, but most of us overlook our legs while strengthening and stretching our body—or if we do try to give our legs some love, we push too hard, which also causes issues. This pose is a gentle stretch aimed at releasing the lower back and lengthening the hamstrings. It can also build strength.

Starting in a standing position, extend your hands out to form the letter T with your body. Then step out so that your ankles are below your wrists. Ground down through your feet and lengthen through the crown of your head as if someone were pulling you upward, while keeping a micro bend in the knees.

Drop your hands down to your lower back and gently push your hips forward. Slide your shoulders down away from your ears, creating length in your back. Keep the micro bend in your knees and continue to lengthen your spine. If you feel like you are arching your back, back out just a bit.

Upon exhaling, fold forward, letting your hands find your shins or maybe the ground. If you are tight in your hamstrings or feel discomfort in your lower back, rise up and let gravity do the work. Be conscious of your knees and the micro bend; do not hyperextend the knees, as this can lead to injury. On each exhale you may find more depth in this pose, and on the inhale, you will rise up as your lungs expand. Stay in this pose for three to five breaths. If you feel you need more, you can stay here for one to three minutes.

Jeramie Vaine is a BOGA team racer and yoga instructor. He shares his knowledge and the beneﬁts of yoga at clinics, demos and races around the country. Contact him at jeramie@bogaboards.com.

HO W TO TR A I N I N G w i t h Tom Jones

HAMSTRING SLIDES:: Hamstring slides are an excellent way to engage multiple muscle groups while using your core to stabilize your body. It will tone your thighs, glutes and abs. You can do this exercise by using pieces of cardboard as a slider. Remember to start slowly to build conﬁdence and coordination when using any equipment that introduces a balance element to your exercise routines (ﬂoor sliders, Indo boards or stability balls).

1 It is easy to slide around too quickly and lose control, potentially injuring yourself. When using sliders on your feet, be sure to keep the balls of your feet ﬁrmly on the slider. Having your heels hanging over the edge will allow you to use them as a brake if needed.

2 Lie down with your knees bent and the cardboard under both feet.

3 Lift your hips off the floor into a bridge position. Hold this position with your palms facing down.

Press into the floor while engaging your core. Slide your left foot slowly out in front of you to maintain control. Tighten your hamstring and continue pressing into the floor as you slide the left foot back to its starting position. Repeat for three sets on each side, until failure.

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Tom Jones is a passionate paddleboarder, Sun Protection Zone Ambassador, two-time Muay Thai MMA world champion and ultra marathon runner. His personal workout routine involves cross-training all three for lifestyle and health.

TR AV EL S COSTA RICA

Central Costa Rica Simple Concepts BY MARK SALVETTI PHOTOS BY MARK SALVETTI & WENDY SOLANO

Sunset at Vista Guapa with the custom YOLO Air From left: Rolando Herrera Siles, 6’10”; Alvaro Solano, 6’10”; Jack Archer, 7’0”; Troy Archer, 7’4”; Jeff Archer, 9’0”; Mark Melancon, 9’4”; Mark Salvetti, 9’10”; Randy Lachney, 10’6”

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TR AV EL S COSTA RICA

During a sunset paddle at Herradura Bay, calm and warm waters make for great ﬂatwater fun.

Whether you are an advanced SUP surfer looking to push yourself and hone your surfing skills or a beginner, Vista Guapa Surf Camp in Costa Rica can help you immerse yourself in the “pura vida” of this special country. The concept was simple: Create a slice of heaven for all to come and experience “pura vida,” the national expression of Costa Ricans, meaning “pure life,” “hello,” “goodbye,” “right on” or “thank you.” From its humble beginnings, Vista Guapa Surf Camp in Costa Rica now leads the way in new possibilities to experience all that is “pura vida” in this beautiful Central American country. Alvaro Solano has created this special place in Jacó, a small, bustling resort town on the Pacific Coast along a crescent-shaped beach. It boasts more than 20 empty surf breaks easily reached within a few minutes’ drive. The camp setup is ideal: Guest cabins are perched high above the town on a protected hilltop where you can enjoy your morning coffee. You are able to breathe in the beauty of the sunrise before you head down for your early morning surf session. With your appetite built up, you head back to the camp for an amazing breakfast that fuels your day. Dinners are enjoyed as one large family at one of the many restaurants in town; we get there by the camp’s van. Meals are definitely meant to be enjoyed here. On one of my first trips here, in 2006, I bombarded Alvaro with

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photos of my new SUP back in the States. We collaborated on a plan to import SUP boards to Costa Rica to offer guests an alternative to surfing at the camp. On a whim, I placed a call to a new SUP company in Florida, YOLO Board. Owner and founder Jeff Archer picked up the phone that day. Five minutes later we were thick as thieves with a plan to ship boards to Costa Rica. In the fall of 2010 we had our first group of YOLO Board paddlers at the camp to host the YOLO Experience Camps to Vista Guapa. We had boards and the concept, and now we were ready to share Vista Guapa with anyone who would listen. Now the trip is produced three times a year. During Mardi Gras, I lead the camp. It sells out well in advance. YOLO Team riders Westy Westenberger and Christian Cook lead trips during different times of the year. Check vistaguapa.com for more information. One week at camp provides the total Costa Rican experience: a day packed with surfing and stand-up paddling amid the daily beauty of Costa Rica. Our recent trip in February 2015 had a delightful group that included six women and six men who varied in skill levels on the water. It was a

Jeff Archer goes down the line at Secret Spot. Photo: Wendy Solano

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TR AV EL S COSTA RICA

At Secret Spot, Rolando Herrera Siles Knows what it’s all about on his custom 6’10” YOLO Air. Photo: Wendy Solano

The week is packed with activity. Most days we return to the camp exhausted and fall asleep by 9:30 p.m., before our heads hit the pillow. balance of beginners and advanced SUP surfers. Jeff and Jack Archer, Randy Lachney, Mark Melancon and I had a unique experience with the custom-shaped YOLO Air Boards, which were ordered in advance to be ready when we arrived. To our knowledge there is no other surf camp offering this high-end type of service, and it was well worth the effort. Boards ranged from 10’6” down to Jack’s 7’ custom shape; the boards were extremely light and agile... fast and striking-looking. They paddled extremely well, with an aggressive rocker. We were able to paddle out through big surf with ease, as well as drop in late after pivot turns on a dime. These boards are a game changer if you are interested in progressing your SUP surfing. There aren’t many boards out there that can compete with this level of design. The concept originated at the camp two years ago. Before that trip, Alvaro had his longtime shaper, Javier Orna, create a custom-shaped SUP board for him. About midweek, Alvaro, Javier and Jeff sat down and discussed the YOLO Air series concept. Two years later, several of us ordered custom shapes, with input from Alvaro as to what would work for us. Vista Guapa provides you with the opportunity to consult with an eight-time Costa Rican champion to create your own abilityspecific SUP surfing board. For Jack it was small, light and agile, while my board was wider and longer. Alvaro knows I like to swoop, glide

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and get in early. The performance and workmanship of all the custom boards exceeded our expectations. The week is packed with activity. Most days we return to the camp exhausted and fall asleep by 9:30 p.m., before our heads hit the pillow. One of the first nights at the camp, we get a message from Alvaro — “Svecret Spot in the morning”— this is a special place known by few locals. Getting there requires an early alarm and an hour drive down some hilly and dusty dirt roads, which lead to an awe-inspiring overlook of a cliff and a left point break. It’s simply amazing. The break is empty and we surf for hours, unaware of time. The day is made even more special by our good friend Edwin Rojas, our driver extraordinaire, who cooked up a barbecue lunch on the beach with sausage and gallo pinto, a traditional Costa Rican dish of rice and beans, over a campfire. Adventures like this keep us coming back for more. These small touches are evident every day, making us feel like family, not just guests in a hotel. Whether you are an advanced SUP surfer looking to push yourself and hone your surfing skills or a beginner to SUP or surfing, Vista Guapa Surf Camp in Costa Rica can help you immerse yourself in the “pura vida” of this special country.

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Who needs zip lines when you can ﬂy across an open-face wave seven days a week along the California coastline?

Old-school waxing on his 8’0”. Ten years ago, Cairns probably couldn’t have imagined being on a SUP, much less riding a board shorter than his smallest longboard.

IAN CAIRNS: A

s one of the progressive thinkers and pioneers of professional surfing in the late ‘70s, Ian Cairns was recognized as a long-haired, “agro” Aussie who would paddle out to any lineup on Oahu’s infamous North Shore. Cairns would surf any size wave with passion and fluid aggression. Not only was he confident and outspoken and having fun, but he also carried the flag for surfers from “down under” in a time when most of the international surfers would tippy-toe in survivalmode along the 7-mile miracle called the North Shore. Cairns helped make surfing what it is today. The sport’s early struggles will probably never be comprehended by the highly paid youth in today’s surfing world; winning a contest back then meant your next meal ticket on the circuit was covered (for many, it meant airfare back home, which was probably halfway around the world). From pioneering a movement, to spearheading the modern world surfing tour, to energizing and grooming many California amateurs, teaching them professionalism and the road to success, Cairns and his counterpart, Peter Townend, were there. The world of professional surfing is the product of people with a commitment to stand and

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deliver. Having been through the grind of the surf world—of punishing wipeouts on land and water and the pressure of the booming billiondollar surf industry—Cairns managed to ﬁnd his way back to the beach. Today, he is still standing, but with a paddle and a huge smile on his face. I guess you could say the stoke is back! It’s a sunny day in North County, San Diego, California, as Cairns arrives at a car park with his wife, Alisa. Says the smiling Cairns, “I was doing a range of learn-to-surf boards with Nev Hyman (of Firewire Surfboards) called oZoboards and we had a single SUP in the line. We were really focused on surfboards and being surfers, but when we took the boards to Outdoor Retailer in January 2011, most of the comments about our range of boards were, “They‘re great SUPs for women and kids.” Of course we said, “Yes,” and the surfboards became Crossovers, great learn-to-surf or learn-toSUP boards for women and kids. At that point it was clear that we had to learn to SUP to be credible, so Mike Skelly from Hobie gave us a couple of lessons at Baby Beach and I started paddling our 9’6” x 34” SUP, then the 9’6” x 32”, progressing to the 9’6” x 28 1/2” x 135L

THE STOKE IS BACK STORY AND PHOTOS BY PAUL ENSYDE

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Crossover board.” “It is an easy piece of arithmetic. Surfing is really hard to learn and impacts maybe 20 million people on the coasts. SUP is easy to learn and can be done anywhere in the country and can potentially impact 320 million people. Understanding this was a revelation at that Outdoor Retailer show; the business potential is huge. It was this revelation that made me learn to SUP and the journey has changed my life in so many positive ways.” Describe the stoke when you first got up on a board and could walk on water. “I instantly loved paddling around the harbor, looking at the boats, talking with people and seeing that the community was really stoked. It was weird to be in such pedestrian conditions and having fun, and it was obvious that it was cool, with all the women out there paddling around wearing yoga gear and not falling in. It’s a really different scene than surfing and way less macho and confrontational.” What about waves? How long did it take you to get up and ride, and what was that thrill like? “I found it really hard to translate the

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paddling from the harbor to the ocean, with the extra movement of swells, chop, current, rips, boils, etc. I thought I would be good instantly; in fact, the opposite was true. My ﬁrst session in the surf was at C Street in Ventura. I was coaching the U.S. team and the waves were small and really nice. I saw a guy paddling up and down the point and riding waves, obviously having fun, and I wanted to be out there doing that. Once I was done with the kids, I grabbed my oZoboard and paddled out into 1-foot waves. I was immediately struggling with balance. When I ﬁnally caught a wave I fell and lost my board onto the rocks. When I swam in, a guy who had rescued the board said, ‘I teach surf and SUP lessons if you want to learn.’ I kept my head down and said thanks and prayed that he did not recognize me. It was so embarrassing and demoralizing, but I was determined to beat this thing.” “A little further along, I was out in Laguna and caught a 1-foot wave and as I took the drop, I found myself hooting like a grom and I went out-of-body, with Kanga looking at Ian hooting and thinking, ‘Mate, it’s a 1-foot wave, what are you thinking?’ It was simple: I was having fun. That was the beginning for me and that was early 2011.”

On the physical side of what SUP does, what quick awakening did it give you to work your entire body? And how fast did you start to morph into a healthier individual? “I had been plagued with shoulder injuries for years, having had gnarly surgery on the rotator cuff on my right shoulder, a partial rotator tear on my left shoulder and torn bicep tendons on both arms. I was a mess and was really having trouble popping up in regular surfing; I was late on the takeoff and getting really depressed. It’s not a good thing to be in your late 50s and be unable to do what you love when that’s the only fitness program you can stick to. At my age, we exercise or die. More than anything, I had lost my identity. I am Kanga, a great surfer, not an old, fat, worthless kook. I was super-bummed but the more I paddled, the more I could see that there was something more for me, that it wasn’t over, and as I persevered through the many demoralizing moments out in the surf, the better I got. Then I could see light at the end of the tunnel.” “And the fitness aspect is amazing. I am not the kind of person that can go out and paddle miles and enjoy the runner’s high. I am a surfer and like to ride waves and don’t mind how hard I have to work if there’s a reward of a wave at the end of an arduous paddle out. After four

years I have dropped 15 pounds, am very strong again, can again surf shortboard lines on a wave and, most importantly, my stoke for surfing is re-established, and I know I am going to get better at SUP surfing. A positive attitude is the single most important aspect of anyone’s life and has a profound impact on fitness.” “I am amazed at how hard the aerobic workout is out in the surf: busting out through the waves, long paddles around the break, power paddling into waves, balancing on the small boards in between sets… all this has made me feel strong, fit and healthy, head to toe. Pretty amazing for a 62-year-old man, and I am just going to get better and stronger.” Is SUP easier or harder than regular surfing? “In my first surf sessions, it was immediately obvious that all the years spent surfing were worth nothing from the immediate standpoint of position in the lineup, balance while waiting for waves, paddling into a wave... everything that was automatic in my surfing had to be relearned for SUP surfing, and this was before I even tried to ride a wave. It was very frustrating, but also a great intellectual challenge, and I am nothing if not very determined. It

“The ﬁtness aspect is amazing. I am not the kind of person that can go out and paddle miles and enjoy the runner’s high. I am a surfer and like to ride waves and don’t mind how hard I have to work.”

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was very hard, but I started to get it. As I did, my balance and paddle skills improved and I began to develop strategies in the lineup and approaches to the waves that made me understand the differences and similarities of surfing on a SUP and regular surfing.” “A huge benefit for my SUP surfing was that I started surfing in the longboard era and thus have very solid big-board technical skills... I can carve turns on any large board, which was a very important aspect of learning to SUP surf, as all the boards have huge volume in comparison to any surfboard. Handling this volume was easy with my technical skills, but my size and weight make it easier as well. For three years I was riding boards with very large volume. It wasn’t until I got my first epoxy surf SUP from Tommy Donnelly at SUP Company, shaped by Chris Kasen, that I was again riding using shortboard skills, albeit on a very large shortboard. My first surf SUP was 8’6” x 31” x 130L—it was a big transition for me in balance, paddling and performance.” “I shaped about 1,000 boards in my early surf career, so I have a very strong board design background. When I started working with Dave Daum at King’s Paddle Sports, it was great to really delve back into my design background and work with Dave on the 3-D design models. I had advanced to the point in my SUP surfing where the boards I was riding were all like longboards and I wanted to shortboard and keep the board on edge through turns. This meant that we had to come up with some design philosophy that was different from current surf SUP design and more aligned with current surf designs. I really liked how my wife’s 5’2” Sweet Potato was working for her in small waves with its wide tail, wide point back from center and narrow nose, so that was the design idea for my new small-wave boards at King’s. I am now on an 8’ x 30” x 120L shortboard that will

soon become a 7’11” x 29” x 120L super-light high-performance hot dog board with the wide point 2 inches behind center. This is for surf from 1 to 5 feet. The wide tail enables me to generate speed on a small wave; the narrow nose and accentuated nose-lift enable the board to come off the top without catching the front edge.” “For surf from 5 to 10 feet my step-up board is 8’6” x 29” x 125L. This board has the same nose as the hot dog board and in larger surf, the narrower tail holds in, and the wide point is moved forward an inch to 1 inch behind center. For surf from 10’ to 15’ my gun is 9’6” x 29” x 125L with the same nose again, but the wide point is on center and the tail is a little narrower. All the boards have a four-fin setup; I have found that larger fins work better for me, as I have the power to push them through the water. I like the pivot point of the large front fins. To be able to develop a quiver with Dave has been really cool and to have them work so well is really refreshing and invigorating. I just wish we had more and bigger waves in California to ride the larger boards more often.” “All this design work has given me the equipment to surf any waves I want. I am now at the point where I don’t feel like I’m SUP surfing; I’m just surfing. My skills in balance and paddling have improved to where I feel confident moving around a lineup to find the best waves. In fact I have discovered that the equipment now provides me with significant advantages over conventional surfboards in the lineup. You can see sets coming much earlier and have the paddle power to reposition yourself to catch those waves, or dodge being caught inside. The power to catch waves is multiplied substantially as you get stronger in your paddling, and the paddle itself provides additional stability and speed on a wave. It’s almost like another motor on the board. All these skills are an advantage in the lineup,

“I was out at Laguna and caught a 1-foot wave and as I took the drop, I found myself hooting like a grom and I went out-of-body, with Kanga looking at Ian hooting and thinking, ‘Mate, it’s a 1-foot wave, what are you thinking?’ It was simple: I was having fun.”

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so it’s really important for all SUP surfers to be very careful how they integrate with the existing surf population and not be wave hogs in the lineup. Having SUP paddlers out there really creates huge additional friction in already crowded lineups, and we do need to be very careful not to stretch the friendship too far.” Attitudes within the SUP community are different than those in the surf community, probably because the demographics are completely different. Is that a refreshing change, coming from the world of surfing? “Regular surfing is all about wave count, territory and exploitation of a scarce resource: the waves in the lineup. This creates a macho pecking order in every surf lineup that is not that fun to deal with. It definitely brings out the worst in me, because I am a sharer and do not like being burned on waves—this is just thinking about being out there as a regular surfer, not even as a former champion. I grew up sharing waves and the dog-eat-dog lineups and localism are so far from the essence of what surfing should be that it’s just not fun out there. It brings out my competitive side. With SUP, most of the new paddlers are cruising around the harbor or far outside the surf lineup. There is almost infinite room out there and no competition for scarce resources, so everyone is nice and mellow and just happy to be out there on the water. Most everyone is older, white-collar, polite and respectful. It’s really a nice experience to meet all these new people who love being out in the ocean with us.” “My entire surf career has been in the surf lineup. To be far out behind the kelp and paddling up the coast of Laguna with my son is a new thing for me, and the viewpoint is really cool and refreshing. It makes me recognize that the water has a different feel out there; it’s more settled and less vertical and disturbed. I have come to realize that my 50 years in the ocean make me an expert in the surf lineup

but a newbie in offshore conditions. That is another huge opportunity of future learning as I expand my ocean skills.” “How cool is that, learning new things about the ocean in my 60s? It’s an exciting thing to have all this new stuff to learn, and the really cool thing is that there are all these people stoked to help me learn these new skills. It is so refreshing to have so many people giving their knowledge so freely and with such great spirit.” The challenges of stand-up are never ending: flat water, open ocean, rivers, lakes, racing, surfing… the disciplines seem to be endless. Is that a motivating factor for you, or do you look at just one or two disciplines and say, this is all I want to do? “I am working on a Koastl Kruisr board that will either be 12’6” or 14’, based on the idea of Ron House’s board. As I get better, I can see myself trekking along the coast, checking the scenery and riding waves as I go. Before SUP, the biggest board I had ridden was a 9’7” longboard. Now I see that I can surf a 12’6” or 14’ board and have a whole new set of surfing experiences. The concept of volume is so different in SUP from surfboards that it takes a long time for a surfer to get his head around it, but I ride a 10’6” x 32” x 230L soft oZoboard for fun as a longboard and it has really made small or rough-water days fun for me. I can see this bigger cruiser opening up a whole new dimension of ocean fun.” “River waves and running downriver are other intriguing aspects of SUP waiting to be explored, but I am wary of the power of the river water, so I will work with Dan Gavere to learn this. I am a total novice at this, but Dan and I have discussed swapping some skills sessions. It’s exciting to think about. Imagine riding an endless wave thousands of miles from the ocean!”

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A prized Gary Linden chambered balsa

a 1970s Bronzed Aussies board, the trigger to California surﬁng professionalism

Cairns’ man cave; accolades, trophies, memorabilia and books

Cairns looks back at the past: sharing a wave at Waimea Bay and a bottom turn at Sunset.

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Do you feel a desire to understand what downwinding is all about? “Downwinding is the really exciting thing in my near future. My new board will have large rocker to enable me to catch and ride those whitecaps out there. This is going to be my new learning experience in 2015 and I plan on becoming good at this as well. I have a date with Dave Kalama sometime this year, once I am good enough at the downwind basics, to learn from him. I come from Western Australia, where the wind is 20-30 knots every day. With downwinding, you can ride endless waves and cover huge distances along the coast with a new skill. Who wouldn’t be stoked to have that opportunity in front of them?” Compare the stoke from being a kid to the stoke that you are now having on the water. “I struggled all through school. I wasn’t good at any sport; I was a rebel and always in trouble; and I hated being told what to do and never felt that anything was mine until I paddled out on a surfboard and I knew I was home. For the ﬁrst time in my life, I felt in control of my destiny. I also fell in love with the free-spirited

nature of the people I met. Then I learned that there was a mountain to be climbed in building my skills and that there were adventures to be had. It was so intoxicating and free. It enabled me to create a whole life completely different than what my parents had experienced.” “In many ways, I feel that I am in the same place in SUP as I was surﬁng back in 1965. I have so much to learn, so many adventures to experience and so many cool new people to meet, that I am reborn in a new world. Can anyone put a price on that kind of stoke and renewal at my age? It’s impossible.” I believe everyone over 50 who is on a SUP wishes this happened 20 years ago. Do you feel the same? And where do you see the kids in their teens? What kind of progression do you think will take place? “Everything happens in its own time and place and I just feel lucky that my circumstances have given me this opportunity to travel on this whole new adventure in SUP, which is so new that I have a chance to participate in inventing and discovering new things. I don‘t regret that I am older, rather, I am stoked to be part of what’s happening and have

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a place to enjoy myself and contribute in some way.” “As the coach of the U.S. SUP team, through Surfing America, I have had the chance to meet some really great people. It has been awesome spending time with Jimmy Terrell and absorbing his experience in paddling and racing. It is amazing talking with Dave Kalama about crossing the Molokai Channel and downwinding, or hearing about Dan Gavere’s experiences inland on rivers and lakes, and hearing his ideas from canoe/kayaking about man-made river waves and the growth occurring in SUP in inland locations. Working on SUP surfing with Sean Poynter, Colin McPhillips and Emmy Merrill has been incredible, both in applying my surfing knowledge to SUP and being inspired by their skill in SUP surfing. I have the great fortune to work with amazing paddlers like Fiona Wylde and Lina Augaitis in upgrading their SUP wave skills.” “Watching what incredible stuff Kai Lenny is doing on multiple watercraft and in riding big waves is really eye-opening as he is blending all these disciplines—SUP racing, surfing, down-winding, regular paddle surfing, big-wave riding, sailboarding and kiteboarding—in a unique and spectacular way. Fiona is dong that as well. The closedminded attitude of traditional surfing is missing so much in failing to recognize how incredible these sports and skilled athletes are.” “I watch tomorrow’s champions like Mo Freitas and Noa Ginella rip aerials on their SUP boards and wonder what Colin McPhillips’ boys will be doing on their surfboards and SUP boards in the future. All this stuff is the future being written in front of our eyes and it’s exciting to be a part of it.” On a professional level, where is SUP is in terms of surfing’s professional timeline was from the 1970s and professionalism? “I

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have a clear vision of the timeline of professional surfing from the early ‘70s, with the first prize money events; the genesis of the Rip Curl, Billabong and Quiksilver brands; and the launch of the IPS/ASP tours and professional surfing. SUP will have a similar growth path with the industry growing along with the development of the sport. One day down the road there will be huge companies supporting major events, sponsored riders and millions of recreational SUP paddlers across the globe enjoying a relaxing paddle with their family. The difference between SUP and surfing is that SUP will be 10 times larger in onethird the time, simply because anyone can do it anywhere there is water. Being part of this journey of the maturing of the sport is really exciting to me. I see it as another chance for many new adventures. I can see myself paddling the upper reaches of the Amazon and riding the Pororoca tidal bore, hopefully in the near future.” How big do you see SUP in 10, 20, or 30 years? “I would be astonished if there weren’t 10 million to 20 million SUP paddlers in the U.S. in five years. SUP provides anyone—man, woman or child, young or old— the chance to liberate themselves from their landlocked existence, to leave the phone on the beach and be one with nature. There is such a spiritual journey to be experienced that is so compelling, I cannot see how it won’t catch people’s imaginations in a huge way. When this happens in a market as large as the U.S., hold onto your hats. Trekking the coastline of Lake Michigan, riding the waves of Stoney Point in mid-winter on Lake Superior, running the St. Lawrence Seaway to the Atlantic, exploring the Everglades, bone-fishing in the Florida Keys, paddling the Mexican/US border down the Rio Grande… Choose your adventure and you can do it on a SUP.” “What about the concept of a second chance to have stoke in your

life as a senior citizen? What about the inspirational story of Mickey Muñoz surfing and designing SUP boards at 77? The fitness and health aspects of SUP for the 70 million baby boomers is another whole new book to be written and I am personally living that story.” “These are compelling ideas and as a few key people get behind the idea of evangelizing the stoke of SUP paddling, it can only catch fire.” Where do you see yourself in the next 10 years? “Riding waves all over the world with my wife and children and being part of the movement to evangelize the sport. It’s like a dream come true for me to have this rekindled passion for something so healthy and natural.” Any advice for the anti-SUP guy is in his 40s, 50s or 60s? “Being negative in any situation only brings negative results. I am so sad that there is so much closed-mindedness and negativity in surfing toward SUP. My wave count is higher, my performance is better, my stoke is higher—how can this be a bad thing? When I see a contemporary in the lineup, struggling to catch a wave on a longboard that I can catch easily on my 8’ board, I just hope the light goes off and he can see that his surfing experience can be improved dramatically by trying to paddleboard. In fact, I can ride my longboard SUP on any wave, as small as it can get, and still have a great time. That is a revelation to me. These stories will be part of our evangelizing to spread the love and spread the word. If it’s OK for Tommy Carroll, Mark Richards, Simon Anderson and me to SUP surf, then I’d suggest that it’s OK for anyone to have a look at it.” Finally, etiquette in the water: What’s the word? “My natural inclination is to be a sharer in the water in any case. When I am in a

Cairns shares some quality time in the water with his wife, Alisa, as they dig into the lifestyle of stoke.

surf lineup, I am especially aware of being the guy that shares waves and waits his turn. But when it’s my turn to go, I am going, and in a sense, I expect to take my rightful spot in the lineup, regardless of what equipment I am riding. I intimately understand the dynamics of a surf lineup and so am able to find a way to fit in, but there are so many new SUP paddlers that are having their first surfing experience on a SUP board. These are the guys and gals that really need to be taught surf etiquette, and currently that is not happening. This creates friction between the SUP newcomers and the hierarchy already set in surf lineups, and this friction will only grow as SUP grows.” “The SUP community needs to make it a priority to teach this surf etiquette to limit the impact on the existing surf lineups or it will get very ugly out there. Without this voluntary teaching from the SUP side, there will be some unfortunate incidents that will spur the creation of divisive regulations, and we really need to do something before that happens. It’s early, but I can see the day when many of those new paddlers try to ride their first waves. They need knowledge first. This should be a major industry initiative right now.” “Being the eternal optimist, I can also see a day when there will be paddlers interfacing nicely with the surfers up and down the coasts, and across the country there will be adventures being had on all sorts of equipment in all manner of lakes and rivers, by countless new paddlers that we have not met yet. That sounds like a fun place to be.” As the westerly swell starts to pulse up on the horizon and the crowd dissipates, the light offshore breeze starts to signal another session in the lineup. Ian Cairns grabs his 8’ and carbon paddle and can’t help but smile as he heads back out to get some fun head-high waves.

A chance meeting with Hawaiian Eric Keawe reminds Cairns of the aloha the Duke exuded when Cairns surfed in the Duke Kahanamoku Classic.

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B O AR D B UILDER By Paul Ensyde

TAYLOR RAMBO

TAYLOR RAMBO BREAKS DOWN THE LINE Life on the water starts with staying committed to life in the boardroom: shaping, research, development, software, and ensuring rails, bottoms and foils are flawless after the blanks are cut. For Riviera Paddlesurf, it’s all up to one man, who utilizes both the feedback of team riders as well as his own two feet on a board in the water. This is the job of board builder Taylor Rambo. He breaks down the board line for Riviera in 2015. “Shaping has intrigued me since I started surfing. I saw some of my first boards get shaped when I was younger, and the whole process was amazing to me.” He was so intrigued that he shaped his first surfboard when he was 12, and got into the business side of things with his brother. He hired the likes of Mike Muir from Dana Point, who had immense knowledge of the surf manufacturing industry. Today, he has staff, crew and sales representatives around the country, along with international distribution. “Riviera Paddlesurf launched in 2007—we started making boards for Ron House. My brother, Brandon, was doing sales and we had a tough

Photo: Mike Muir

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Photo: Mike Muir

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B O AR D B UILDER TAYLOR RAMBO

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time selling the boards because there was nobody to sell to. There was no such thing as a SUP shop back then, and today there are brick-and-mortar shops and beach rental services all over the world. The amount of change we’ve seen has been huge since the first boards were shaped in Ron’s shop. Now, you can’t even find a local body of water that hasn’t been paddled. It’s unbelievable.” Growing at such a rapid pace, with designs and performance changing every three to six months, Rambo is always thinking progressively. The game, as in any sports and recreational industry, had him getting serious about taking his “hobby” and transforming it into a business. “I didn’t get seriously into shaping until about five years ago. Basically, I had ideas for race boards and SUP surfboards, and I knew what I wanted, and the only way to put those ideas into a board was to

“ONE OF THE BENEFITS OF BEING AN AVID PADDLER IS I FEEL LIKE I HAVE A KEEN UNDERSTANDING OF WHAT A PADDLER NEEDS FROM THEIR BOARDS, WHETHER RACE OR SURF.”

photo: Scott Shannon

Photo: Mike Muir

B O AR D B UILDER TAYLOR RAMBO

photo: Scott Shannon

shape it myself. I asked Mike Muir [now Riviera’s president] to set me up with his son, Jason, to give me a formal lesson in shaping, and I got right into it, making SUP surfboards and race boards. Mike then hooked me up with respected surfboard shaper Timmy Patterson, and I rented his extra shaping bay. This was great because I was able to learn a lot from Timmy really fast: what tools to use, how to make those tools, how to shape certain features, what certain features do and why they work.” Because Rambo is actively involved in all aspects of SUP, from racing and surfing to recreational paddling, he’s able to apply his personal experience and knowledge to building all kinds of boards for Riviera. “Our touring model, the Voyager, is derived from our race board, and is designed to paddle efficiently while being stable enough to paddle when loaded with gear. The hull design is identical to our race model but a bit wider for stability, and thicker for extra buoyancy. We’ve added extra features like tie-down points and deck rigging that are specific for paddling with gear.” “On our race model, for the 12’6”, 14’, unlimited and kids’ race, a

users. Every board is built for a purpose, and it is all about balancing the different features. The goal is to make boards that meet their purpose so they have the right amount of stability, durability, weight, glide efficiency and speed.” And what has Rivera Paddlesurf been pushing within the realm of high-performance boards? “We’re pushing board width and size this year. I have made SUP surfboards for some team riders in the 6’8” x 23” range and race boards in the 14’ x 22” range. I think everybody is getting better at paddling and we are figuring out ways to make the boards more stable and controllable. If we want a race board to be an inch narrower, the stability has to come from somewhere. As an overall summary, the whole industry is pushing that with their performance athletes. Every time I make a new board for someone like Ryan Helm, Thomas Maximus, Shae Foudy or Chance Fielder, we talk about what they like or didn’t like about their last boards and make improvements. We also have our race production 12’6” and 14’ in different widths, as well as a 14’ Downwinder that has been in development for the past few years. We made some updates to our touring model, the Voyager, to make it more efficient and stable; and have a surf model called the Whirling Dervish Ryan Helm Pro Model. Ryan and I have been working on it for two years now. It is a little spooky-looking but it works great in all conditions. El Tigre is the newest high-performance model with a pulled-in nose. It is the next generation of last year’s Machete model. I’ve been working on it for a couple years with Tommy Lloy and Anthony Maltese.” What are your thoughts on ultralight boards’ performance? “Shape, not weight, is the deciding factor for speed. If the shape has inefficient rocker for glide, it doesn’t matter how light it is, it will still be slow. With boards, weight is a balancing act: If you want a board to be the lightest, it can’t be the strongest. A nice balance is our Riviera Race Production carbon fiber model, which is 14” x 25” and weighs 24 to 25 pounds. I do build custom prototype boards here in San Clemente that can be as light as 16 pounds, but they are built with performance in mind with no regard for durability.” More youth are embracing the SUP lifestyle. Is there a game strategy to reach out to the new or younger paddlers getting into the competitive scene? “We are very involved in the racing and SUP surfing community, and we see the need for youth models. We came out with a youth paddle about six years ago and introduced youth race boards two years ago, and they have been great, enabling kids to have a more efficient board that makes them faster and reduces chance of injury. Now we have SUP surfboards for kids down to the 5’ range. It is really cool to see the kids getting so into the sport, and we are already seeing some kids that have grown up in SUP starting to dominate the events.” So how does someone get a custom board? “The shaping room is right here at Riviera Headquarters. I spend a lot of time working and developing the next generation of boards. Our Custom Board program is growing as well so I’m making custom boards for customers daily.” “When building a board for someone, I take their weight into consideration for certain features of the board. The major factor is skill level. Some people have incredible balance and ability so they can surf an SUP that is in the 7’ range, but other people with the same weight may only be able to handle an 8’ SUP.” “In racing, the paddler’s ability typically dictates the width of board that they can handle but there are some factors that are harder to define, such as a paddler’s technique. Everyone races differently and when I’m shaping a custom race board I can make subtle changes that will complement each paddler. If you are a serious paddler, we can help you get what you want, whether it’s for surf or racing down the line.”

“SHAPING HAS INTRIGUED ME SINCE I STARTED SURFING...” lot goes into a design, and minor changes in any feature of the board can make a huge difference in speed. Race boards are probably my favorite to shape. Our team is stoked when we provide them with the best equipment, and positive changes to the design are easy to track. I work really closely with the team on new designs and ideas, and we are constantly testing new ideas and building prototypes. They put a lot of effort into training, so when I get the chance to build boards for them I work as hard as I can to make the best board they’ve ever stepped on.” “Our recreational models are our do-it-all boards. The 10’6” and 11’6” Classic are perfect for the first-time paddler who is looking to get into the sport. In the surf or on flat water, these boards share features with our racing boards, as well as our performance surf models, to handle a variety of conditions.” “Performance surf is a very broad category and I don’t even know where to start. Those boards are all designed for different purposes: performance surf, intermediate surf, nose riding, small-wave boards, big-wave guns and step-up boards. The 9’2” Nugg and Nugget are also performance, but geared more toward the paddler that is progressing and downsizing from a bigger board. We typically see paddlers start with a 10’6” and step down in size as they improve.” “Most of my energy goes to performance race and progressive surf. We’re constantly fine-tuning our boards and working on new designs, putting them through serious R&D. As we make them faster or surf them to maneuver better, that knowledge goes directly into all our other boards for the consumer in our production models. At that point we can try new glassing and finishing materials. It’s the only way to keep progressing.” “One of the benefits of being an avid paddler is I feel like I have a keen understanding of what a paddler needs from their boards, whether race or surf. Also, because I race and surf competitively, I have more reasons why I have to make the fastest or most maneuverable board. is evident- to the SUP shop owner who’s buying boards, or for a team rider to have a competitive edge; I have to consider all aspects for all

W A T E R M A N

A l r l e T he t f A s g eY in

UÑ

Standing and

ICK

M EY BY PAUL ENSYDE

PHOTOS BY PAUL ENSYDE AND MICKEY MUÑOZ

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P R O F I L E

Life spins by so fast when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re having fun on the water. Mickey has been doing this for close to 70 years now.

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It’s 8 a.m. on the Saturday of the Rainbow Sandals Battle

of the Paddle and a guy in his BOP referee shirt is catching waves on an 8’6” SUP and going across the left lines of Salt Creek. After helping with the start of each race, he’s back out to get another wave, riding like a machine. Wave after wave, he keeps going. At least six hours on the water. “Correction,” says Mickey Muñoz. “Eight hours on Saturday and another four and a half on Sunday because the waves were good.” After countless waves since the early 1950s, he’s still riding, and Muñoz is not slowing down. He’s been honing his waterman skills and building surfboards since his late teens while crossing many an ocean by taking a catamaran across the Pacific to Hawaii. And he is one extremely sharp, dialed-in guy. Muñoz was there when the surfing boom exploded while working for Hobie Alter in the Dana Point area, along with all of the pioneers of today’s surfing lifestyle. He rode the north shore of Oahu when it was still virgin territory. He travels up and down the California coast, as he has done since the mid-1950s. Now, thanks to SUP, he also travels the inland waterways.

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”I first stood up on a regular surfboard in 1947 when I was 9 or 10 years old at Will Rogers State Beach at Santa Monica Canyon. Then I got my first board in 1948, a plywood hollow lifeguard rescue board called a ‘Surf King Jr.’ It was 10’6” and weighed around 65 pounds. My first real surfboard was in 1950. It was a Joe Quigg balsa he made for his wife, Aggie. It was 8’10” and weighed about 22 pounds. What a big difference! That’s when I really started surfing Malibu and that was a game changer for me.” That’s the kind of stoked outdoorsman he is, truly living the lifestyle at the age of 77 and still riding like a stoked grommet. “As for my humble beginnings in the SUP world, my start was 12 or 13 years ago in Malibu, where I went back for a swell. I took off on a wave and I heard a guy hollering at me out of nowhere. It was Laird Hamilton; he had ridden from the outside and made it through the second point, and he had a paddle in his hand. I paddled in and watched and Laird went through the Malibu Pier twice. I was so intrigued and hooked right there. The next day I made a paddle and went out on my 12’ Surftech model because where I live, the swell still had some push. But I was so frustrated trying to stand and balance. I threw my paddle on the beach and went back out to regular surf. But I felt it; my entire

Riding Doheny comes naturally to He has probably caught more than 10,000 waves here since the 1960s. And he doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just go out and catch a wave, he embraces it and connects the dots from start to ďŹ nish.

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At the compound with one of his water sleds, the man has the right board for each and every day. There are no bad waves.

“Mickey is the most stoked-out grom in the water today. He’s always on the pulse of every swell; he knows when to go; and he’ll travel hundreds of miles to get the perfect wave. I think every waterman hopes to be like the ‘Mongoose’ one day. He is deﬁnitely an inspiration to me.” Standup Paddle Magazine —Reid Inouye, Publisher,

body was worked and I caught the bug.” “Since then I’ve paddled consistently and I feel I’m way stronger than I was six or seven years ago. Last year I spent about five months surfing off the East Cape of Baja Mexico. I do about four to five months a year in Mexico; you can drive it in 24 hours but I split it into three days to get down there and it’s always worth it.” Staying on the water is what keeps Muñoz healthy, active and stoked, and he’s added inland adventure to his SUP lifestyle. “My wife, Peggy, is the racer, and I’m the surfer, so last June I snowboarded around the Mammoth area in the mornings and we paddled the lakes in the afternoon. It was just a great time to be up there. After spending four or five days there, we went to South Lake Tahoe just before the Race the Lake of the Sky event so Peggy could race. It was a blast.” “As for what I’ve been riding the last couple years, I have a board range depending on the waves—7’10”, 8’4” and a 8’9”, and I just recently made a 7’7”. And I just started working with Surftech again on my old longboard models from the early 2000s. Those models will be released soon and manufactured with strong, ultralight material—I

can’t wait to get on those boards. My old 11’ (the original, which a lot of guys actually rode as a SUP back in the mid-2000s) is coming back, along with the 12’ version of it. There’s also a 10’6” we’ve just designed using my old shapes that also came out incredibly light and looking good. With the new material, it’s going to be really fun to ride.” “I also still work with C4 Waterman on my SUP models with 11’ and 12’ boards that are wider than my surfboards, along with a 12’6” touring cruiser and a 12’6” and 14’ race board.” “Stoke and sharing this gift of the ocean is really simple. I went to mainland Mexico last year to do a documentary and brought my 8’4”. Corky Carroll, who was totally against SUP at the time, was on the beach, watching me while the small days on the water were pretty much empty. He watched me surf my board and was so amazed at how much fun I was having that he was kind of stoked and impressed, and he wanted to learn. I ended up giving him SUP tips and lessons over email for several months and he kept asking about various techniques. Just before he came over for the Rainbow Sandals Battle of the Paddle last fall to emcee the race, he wanted to learn how to do a backside bottom turn and was so excited after I gave him a few tips. Then during the

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Muñoz is in tune with the water. As he sees the wave down the line, he preps his feet for a hard turn, gaining momentum and speed.

BOP he watched all the races and was so impressed—it blew his mind what was really going on within the race scene. He got a new Quickblade paddle and is completely stoked on it today. We recently went to his place in Mexico and he told me he’s so stoked to be a kook again and learning how to SUP; it’s like learning to surf all over again. The learning curve just keeps you stoked. As he has gotten older, he’s definitely felt the benefit of SUP and looking way stronger.” “It’s important to know how to handle the vibe and etiquette out in the water for those you don’t really know. I’ll go out to breaks I’ve been surfing for years and watch the grumpy guys and sit next to them, and say, ‘Aren’t we lucky to be surfers?’ And if they’re still having the grumpy vibe I just throw my paddle in the water and start surfing with them. The fact that I feel stronger now makes it so easy for me to prone paddle and catch more waves than I did before.”

“If you want to get into SUP, my advice is to go inside a harbor and learn to stand-up and paddle before even thinking about SUP surfing.” “The grumpy ones that have a hard time with SUP are the insecure ones, while the good ones who know how to surf don’t even care and are usually really friendly. Colin McPhillips told me a story about the vibe with some of the surfers in the lineup. Everyone knows he can surf both a shortboard or a longboard and if he still feels the vibe, he’ll sit next to a guy and tell him, ‘Stand up on my 7’10” SUP and paddle around. If you do it, you can keep my board and paddle.’ End of story right there, as no one has yet to take the challenge.” “If you want to get into SUP, my advice is to go inside a harbor and learn to stand-up and paddle before even thinking about SUP surfing.” Learn the fundamentals first and build up your core body strength. It will take awhile to learn but it’ll be fun.” “Since those days of harbor paddling, I see more awareness and a change in the abilities of new paddlers, especially in Dana Point Harbor, where I see a better understanding between the Harbor patrol and the paddlers regarding safety and etiquette. At our first few [Mickey Muñoz] Mongoose Cups, which we do during the spring there, we educated the beginners and novices. Now, 80-90 percent are all excellent paddlers, and designs and abilities have really raised the bar.” With all of that said, it’s time to get back down to the beach. The tide is on the rise and the swell has a little pulse going on, and Mickey Muñoz is just one stoked waterman, willing to give advice, help or share a wave because he knows there will be many more, and he is in it for the long haul of riding for the next several decades. Besides, he’s stoked to get out on his new 7’7”. STANDUPpaddlemagazine.COM /

A F I N D I N G

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S U P

S U

R F D

TNAM I S

It’s no wonder why Ha Long Bay is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Exploring on a SUP opens the door to see more than what’s possible via boat. Tommy and Andrea.

E R Y O V

This journey begins in Southern California with the adventurous mind of Riviera team rider Tommy Lloy. He called me with the idea of finding surf in Vietnam, of all places. I doubted the idea and told him there is no surf in Vietnam. A week and some research later, I realized he was on to something. I purchased a ticket. We invited an avid flatwater paddler and Vietnamese speaker, Andrea Nguyen, to join us. In 25 hours, we will be in Vietnam. As I deplane in Ho Chi Minh City, the humid air of the tropics fills my lungs; my excitement escalates. Tommy and Andrea

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greet me at the curb and we head to our accommodations. The sheer size of this busy and dense city is immediately obvious. We dodge masses of mopeds, blaring our horn. The shopping districts are stuffed with everything the heart desires. The food is great, and the coffee is strong—càphêsaá, Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk, fuel the Vietnamese and our journey. After making our way to Andrea’s family’s house, well fed and fueled up, we begin making our plans. Tomorrow we will make our way to the coast. We are heading north and scheduled to land directly in front of Typhoon Haiyan’s projected path. This instills fear and excitement in us. We deduce two things: We will be very close to the projected

landfall of one of the most powerful typhoons recorded in the region; and this storm should generate waves. Upon arrival in Quy Nhón, we discover that the typhoon has moved north after passing over the Philippines. The anxiety lifts as we realize we are no longer in immediate danger. The storm also loses strength before finding the Vietnamese coast. With most of the wave energy making its way north, we see less than expected, though it still gives us plenty to explore. We spend a few days exploring the coast north and south of Quy Nhón. The lack of any real surf data makes finding surf difficult, but we find bay after bay of long stretches of fun beach break. One in particular offers fun sand point surf, but we are

Tommy Lloy catches a fun little wedge below the pool of a hotel near Quy Nhón.

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On the tarmac headed to Ha Long Bay

Tommy and Andrea enjoy a sheltered view of a recent ﬁnd.

Vietnamese circle boats

Salt ﬁelds outside of Ha Long Bay

Tommy and Andrea explore one of many bays that were better for the scenery than surf.

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Most places we went to surf usually drew a crowd. We were actually being thrown out by security for fear that we would drown. There is fear of the ocean among Vietnamese ﬁshermen when surf is up and storms are brewing.

quickly hustled off the beach by security and locals guarding the land of a future hotel development. The Vietnamese fishermen fear the sea when storms generate surf. Their boats cannot leave the harbor; fishermen drown attempting to fish off the beach; and they fear for surf travelers like ourselves. We attempt to assure them we’ll be fine through the thick language barrier and find a brief window of fun surf just south of the hotel site. With down days coming, we decide to make our journey north to paddle Ha Long Bay, one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Upon landing in Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, it is noticeably cooler. It is like a cool summer night back home, giving us a welcome relief from the jungle heat and humidity. The city of Hanoi is very different than its southern counterpart, Saigon. This city has history; the region from central Vietnam to the northern border has always belonged to the country of Vietnam. The southern section was taken from Cambodia. So the heritage here is old and runs deep. There is a

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Tommy Lloy. This little wedge offered a couple ramps.

t t o p a m ss e u tt r a

them

we’ll be ﬁne through the thick language barrier and ﬁnd a brief window of fun surf just south of the hotel site.

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Our time ran out on this wave before we were asked to leave. We managed to get a few in ﬁrst.

change in the people and the food. There is a very obvious Chinese influence in the architecture, food and people. After exploring some of Hanoi’s history, we have an extravagant Japanese dinner in the city for a quarter of the cost back home. That night we ready ourselves for the four-hour van ride to Ha Long Bay in the morning, and we reflect on the first quarter of our journey, how helpful the people of Vietnam have been, and the difficulty of finding waves and potential spots that we will explore with the next coming swell. Our timing north could not have been more perfect. Just as we leave, a rainstorm nearly drowns Quy

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Nhón. This should bring better swell than Typhoon Haiyan. Arriving at the docks in Ha Long Bay, it’s apparent why this is regarded as one of the most beautiful bays in world. Thousands of rock formations jet out of the ocean like spikes on a dragon’s back. We will spend two days aboard a boat exploring a fraction of the channels and passages of this beautiful bay. The local fishermen live on floating houses tucked into a labyrinth of jetting rock formations protected from the violent storms that come through this region. Their only sources of income are tourists, fishing and pearls. Pearl farms span part of the bay

On e

p in

o ff r a e l r u s c fu ti r n a

poin

but we are quickly hustled off the beach by security and locals guarding the land of a future hotel development.

t surf, STANDUPpaddlemagazine.COM /

Ha Long boat captain

Tommy Lloy and Andrea Nguyen take in the scenery in Ha Long Bay.

A little perspective on Ha Long Bay.

next to this ﬂoating town tended by the locals. As the sun sets and the air cools, the jackets we thought were wasting luggage space become extremely welcome. We are privileged to experience one of the most amazing places on earth, watching the sunset behind the many spires of Ha Long Bay’s labyrinth, where one could easily get lost. Coming back to port, we realize that one could spend years exploring Ha Long Bay on a SUP and still ﬁnd uncharted territory. This area is an amazing escape from the grind of scouring the jagged coast for waves, but now it’s time to head back.

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The coast of Quy Nhón is beautiful, lush jungle. The air is stiflingly humid and the Vietnamese sun is intense. With the help of Andrea’s uncle, whom we call “The Boss,” we began our mission to find surf. Before we are to be turned loose on the Vietnamese the following day, we are invited to dinner and drinks with The Boss, a one-of-a-kind privilege. It is a wild animal dinner behind closed doors off the main restaurant floor; we eat porcupine, deer jaw, and stew that contained greens and meat without English translation. At this dinner, we also discover that the Vietnamese love to drink. They love Heineken, lots

Do you see a wolf? Ha Long Bay

Tommy heads out to explore Ha Long Bay and teach the boat crew how to SUP.

There is not enough light to explore Ha Long Bay in just one day.

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Tommy Lloy navigates a narrow strait in Ha Long Bay.

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Erik Anderson, giving a little direction Photo: Lloy

The city of Quy Nhรณn

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The ďŹ&#x201A;oating village in the background is one of many throughout the labyrinth of rock formations jetting out of the sea. This one farms and sells pearls.

ort, op

ba g c n kt i

we realize that one could spend years exploring Ha Long Bay on a SUP and still ďŹ nd uncharted territory.

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There are some similarities between SUP and the Vietnamese circle boat. This might explain why the locals with whom we shared our knowledge are so good at SUP.

Floating village in Ha Long Bay

of it. Their goal for the evening is to give us a truly Vietnamese experience— and drink and eat us under the table. In a sluggish fog the following day, our task is to find surf. We have to use maps and overview swell data to figure out where waves might break. This proves tougher than we anticipate. Thanks to Vietnam’s winding coast, it takes time to get to checkpoints and beaches for surf. One beach will be well overhead with victory-at-sea conditions, and around the point it’s chest- to head-high and offshore. Though it takes us days to find this wave, the reward for our efforts is worth it. This uncrowded fishing village with a wrapping left point offers rippable lefts in front of this village that held four generations of fishermen. As we talk with the locals, it becomes obvious that one of the fishermen, Duy, wants to try and SUP surf. As Tommy Lloy readies him with instruction, his excitement is clear. None of us expects what happens next: Duy is a natural. After a few minutes on his knees, he jumps to his feet, gets his bearings and is off. His natural ability must come from the fact that the Vietnamese use the woven circle boats as fishing vessels. Duy is muscular and in good shape from paddling the circle boats. After 20 minutes, he is making his way to the lineup. After another 20 minutes, he catches his first wave with Tommy’s assistance. We are stunned by how fast he progresses. Riding the Riviera Nugg Turbo, he catches a wave from the top of the point all the way to the beach. He seamlessly makes his way to the channel and paddles back out to the top of the point. We discover that this is the first time he has surfed and the first time he has seen a standup paddleboard. Nearly an hour and multiple waves later, Duy catches his first wave on his own. By now, the rest of his family and friends in the village have made their way to the beach to see Duy SUP surf, and they explode in excitement for him. In about one hour, this guy from a little fishing village, who has never surfed or SUPed, is out surfing the wave in the town where he grew

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After much searching we finally find a solid point just outside of Quy Nhón. Tommy finds a little shelter from the jungle sun.

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We spend a lot of time searching the coast for surfable waves.

up. And he is killing it. There is no doubt in my mind that, given the chance, he would be a SUP competitor. It’s one thing that this local guy picks up SUP so quickly, but when another local friend wants to try, Duy becomes the teacher. In just one hour, we have one local catching waves by himself and now he’s spreading his knowledge. While he’s not as fast of a learner as Duy, the local boy has no trouble standing up and paddling out to the reef. He is also in good shape. Duy follows him on Tommy’s Nugget, giving instruction and direction in Vietnamese. Oh, I forgot to mention that no one in the town speaks a word of English. We are teaching these guys to SUP and surf with a 100 percent language barrier, and the whole town gets stoked and involved. As we return to shore with two new stoked SUP paddlers, their family and members of the town prepare a

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This u

n i g sh village fi d e d w w it o r h nc

wrapp

point offers rippable lefts in front of this village that held four generations of ďŹ shermen.

ing left

We surf this wave for three days after ďŹ nding it. This is where Duy learns to SUP surf and Tommy destroys many waves.

T hr o

h g u

e s a rching e th l al

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n g, guessi

we found a little slice of seclusion with good people, food and waves in Vietnam.

Every now and then I was forced to put the camera down and get a different perspective. Surfer: Erik Anderson. Photo: Lloy

feast for us: chicken, ďŹ sh, rice, sesame bread and cases of Heineken greet us as we return to the beach. As the sun passes behind the mountains and the jungle heat is pulled from the air, our feast begins. With bellies full of beer and food, we reďŹ&#x201A;ect on the day we just lived, having met amazing people and sharing our knowledge of surf with them. This is our last night abroad. Through all the searching and guessing, we found a little slice of seclusion with good people, food and waves in Vietnam.

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QUIVERS & W H EELS B OT E

By Jim Freeman Photos: Sean Murphy

THE BOTE MULE: PACKING A LOAD ON THE ROAD The BOTE Mule DESTIN, FLORIDA

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Last year, BOTE Boards had a contest to name this 2014 Ford E-350 Van. The Mule is a van that gets noticed at trade shows across America. We don’t even want to know its gas mileage. It has been on many photo shoots, including last year’s ﬁfth issue of Standup Paddle Magazine, and is the envy of every cross-country cruiser in America. From top to bottom you can stack several 12’6”s and 14’s, and the Valhalla Race with BOTE sox keeps it protected from the elements. Next to that is the Glades100 Edition Ahab with the Axe Chainmail Paddle to the side. The Mule is 21 feet long.

The roof racks are aluminum. The roof has an access ladder with a back side aluminum bumper with swing arms for a cooler and spare tire. Aluminum Nerf bars with tread step make it accessible for quick ins and outs from the back side door, and this baby has 33’ TOYO Mud Terrain tires and XD Series Blackout wheels.

People recognize the authentic BOTE Mule DNA along the front side. The aluminum bumper front has a brush guard and LED lighting for night runs through the swamp.

The kicker in the Mule is the Sideboard Kegerator full of SweetWater IPA. Now that’s how to cruise into towns and trade shows.

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QUIVERS & W H EELS B OT E

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QUIVERS & W H EELS RAND Y L ACHNE Y

By Jim Freeman Photos: Mark Salvetti

KICKIN’ BACK, BAYOU-BOY STYLE Randy J. Lachney FOLSOM, LOUISIANA

Kayaking was my mode of being on the water before stand-up, but everything changed with one sneeze. Well, three, actually. Ever sneeze and hold it in? It was something I did that I never expected to affect me in a bad way. I did that, and felt and heard something crack in my neck. The next day I couldn’t move and later found out I cracked two vertebrae and herniated two discs in my neck. Seriously! After months of treatment and injections, my left arm was having major issues. My fingers didn’t work correctly, and I had very little use of my arm due to nerve damage. Doctor gave me two options: neck surgery or amputation of my arm. They fused vertebrae together with bone from my hip and threw in some plates and screws. My chiropractor was telling me about the YOLO Boards while I was complaining about not being able to lift my kayaks yet. The following weekend I drove over and realized I knew Jeff and Mitzi Archer (owners of YOLO Boards) from my hometown. I purchased a YAK due to the stability factor but quickly realized it was too heavy for me. I drove back to the warehouse and picked up a rec board. After months figuring out what I could and could not do, I got better and stronger. Within a couple of years, I had three boards and purchased my first race board, a 12’ Predator. I started going to races to finish, not to win. I met a lot of awesome people who have become some of my best friends and got the chance to explore different bodies of water. Eight years later, I own 15 YOLO boards and I’ve probably had 23. I don’t do any hardcore racing anymore but do enjoy the workouts and camaraderie of smaller, less serious races. We have local groups here that get together often for beautiful flatwater river paddles, rather it be training or the “booze” cruises. I also volunteer to work events with other paddle companies, races, triathlons, Boy Scout events, etc. Lake Pontchartrain is one of my favorite places to go when it is slick to practice turns and do sprints on my race boards. No matter where we are going on a given day, I’m in! The last two years I’ve traveled to Vista Guapa Surf Camp in Jaco, Costa Rica, during Mardi Gras week with Mark Salvetti and his group. It was such a great time. I’m going again in October and again next February for Mardi Gras. I travel a lot, so I almost always have boards and gear with me. Locally, within 100 miles, there are several rivers and lakes as well as state parks to go play in. One of my most interesting paddles revolves around a trip to Las Vegas; I am not a gambler. I got bored, saw a brochure for paddling the Colorado River and gave them a call. The next morning, after a nauseating helicopter ride, then a horse and buggy ride, I was at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. A group took a really fast, 20-mile trip, and I mean fast. This was not a leisurely, “paddle, take a picture, paddle” paddle. It was an “Oh sh**, what have I gotten myself into” paddle. I was not physically prepared for what I was doing, but I did it and finished. I would totally do it again. And bein’ in Cajun Country you’d expect gator stories. Several times we see them, mostly in the evening. I have never been approached by one on my YOLO board but have spotted them under me, laying dormant as the water gets colder. But once, in my kayak, I had a stringer of bass and perch, about 20 of them. While moving to another spot I got a tug and thought the stringer of fish had caught on a tree. I reached to get it loose, and—snap!—a gator pulled it out of my hand and off the yak. I wound up with 11 stitches and a 12-pack for

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story night around the ﬁre. They don’t bother you at all as long as you stay away from their nests and babies. I’m in Florida frequently, which means I’m in the YOLO store a lot. My friends, other than the YOLO Familia, live in Sandestin, so I have my own key and room. I have no need to rent a condo. I would have to say I am probably at the store on Highway 98 at least 15 times a year. It’s a great store and just emits a great vibe. You always run into a part of the family and get to make plans for another epic adventure. I’m a transporter of boards and gear for the Louisiana paddle companies that represent YOLO, since I’m there so often.

I TRAVEL A LOT, SO I ALMOST ALWAYS HAVE BOARDS AND GEAR WITH ME. STANDUPpaddlemagazine.COM /

Johnny and June act as security when Randy is out paddling, while also being man’s best friend.

A fuel-efﬁcient set of wheels works great when traveling through the Cajun backcountry.

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QUIVE RS & W H EEL S R AND Y L ACHNE Y

OF COURSE, EVERY TRUCK NEEDS A DOG OR TWO.

My truck is a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel, quad cab, 4x4, 8’ bed. It is a 440HP beast. On any given day, there are at least two boards loaded, but it’s not uncommon to see me with 10 loaded up to take people out for an adventure. Of course, every truck needs a dog or two. Mine are English Bulldogs, Johnny and June. Towing behind the beast is my Holland Grille, more commonly known as Randisle BBQ. It’s propane-powered and outﬁtted with two 4-by-8-foot decks. I built the trailer, and built and mounted the grille, stainless steel table and two gig fryers. Last year at YOLO’s Big River Regional Race in Baton Rouge, I cooked a 100-pound hog. I can add wood to it if I want some smokiness to the meat. My quiver consists of a YOLO Yak, an Orange Crush in 12’6” and 14’ lengths, two regular rec boards, a couple ECO Trainers, an 11’ Inﬂatable, a Fisher Series Board and a 10’6” Turtle. My SUP surfboards are 9’2” Ash Surf Series, 10’2 Justin Lyons Surf Series Special Edition and the 10’6” custom built YOLO Air Series, which stays at Vista Guapa Surf Camp in Costa Rica. My other set of wheels just happens to be my YOLO Beach Cruiser and though I don’t own a set of these wheels, my actual job is owning an 18-wheeler truck dealership. We have Macks, Peterbilts, Kenworths, etc. Now those are some big wheels.

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Ian Balding takes time out to display the basic necessities of his man toys, from classic wood boards and shortboards to his home away from home. Gotta love the Airstream.

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QUIVERS & WHEELS IAN BALDING

By Jim Freeman Photo courtesy: Ian Balding

OF AIRSTREAMS AND QUIVER DREAMS Ian Balding WILMINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA

Hanging by his Airstream trailer home, handcrafting shaper (yep, he’s old-school— everything is shaped by hand) Ian Balding knows what to ride and when to ride it. Not much is needed in terms of quiver, just some solid sleds that work in every condition possible. In the mix is a thruster setup shortboard; a couple of Fat Tuna SUPs to get the groove on out at Wrightsville or those epic days on the Outer Banks; a 14’ race board for paddling the back bays or getting on the Atlantic; and some street wheels. And check out those three hand-carved wood boards for regular surﬁng when he’s not Airstreaming it.

“I’M OLD-SCHOOL. I DO EVERYTHING BY HAND AND LIKE FEELING ALL MY BOARDS OUT. SHAPING, GLASSING AND SANDING IS WHERE I’M AT RIGHT HERE IN THE OUTSKIRTS OF WILMINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA.” STANDUPpaddlemagazine.COM /

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This four-person crew (Dane and Dick DeBoer, Annabel Anderson and Mike Vaughn) outclassed the entire ﬁeld at this year’s Hanohano Race in Mission Bay, San Diego, California.

QUIVERS & WHEELS DIC K AND DANE DEBO ER

Photos and Story by: Paul Ensyde

WHO BUILT THE ARK? DeBoer Brothers S A N C L E M E N T E A N D M U R R I E TA , C A L I F O R N I A

Dick DeBoer says: “A contractor neighbor of mine who saw the endless hours I spent in my boat yard working on the craft asked me, ‘What are you building, the Ark?’ This 43.5’ x 20.5” rowing shell was abandoned at Lake Perris approximately 15 years ago. UC Riverside’s crew once rowed at the lake. The shell’s skin had weathered away with open wounds over many years left in the weather and sun. I had seen the boat in the graveyard and thought it would be so cool to resurrect the once-beautiful, all-mahogany-skinned rowing shell that was rotting away. My first issue was getting it home. I had a welder build cross-bars onto my catamaran trailer and towed it behind my Toyota Prius down the freeway with 15 feet of shell overhanging my car and 15 feet hanging off the rear of the trailer. What a sight that must have been. I love Unlimited SUPs and going as fast as is humanly possible on the water. No multiperson SUP has ever beat the field to win a major race so I set out to build a craft that could possibly do just that. The first ‘float’ was in my backyard pool after I reskinned the middle 20 feet of the craft. It was very tippy. The first paddle testing of The Ark was one week before the Hanohano race with Jimmy Terrell, Dane DeBoer and Mike Vaughn at Newport Aquatic Center. Originally we had a center dagger-board for balance, but after hitting bottom and wrecking in Newport Back Bay, we decided to take the dagger-board off and found we didn’t need it. Our first outriggers were made from PVC and pieces of an old soft-top surfboard. After the first paddle testing, we went into rebuild mode. We had to build new amas for the ark by using the amas from the one-man outrigger canoe that gave us from the graveyard of parts at NAC. Dane bent a length of aluminum to make the arched iako and we were ready to go the night before the Hanohano. Race day was the first real paddle test of The Ark to see how it would perform. The crew was Mike Vaughn, Dane DeBoer, Annabel Anderson and me. Once we got The Ark up to speed we averaged over 8 mph for the first half of the race and were smoking the field. Due to the time crunch on getting The Ark finished we didn’t seal the amas and they took on water throughout the race. We still managed to be the first multiperson standup paddle craft to win overall in a SUP race. Dream and mission accomplished! Dane and I will continue to work on honing the craft to even faster speeds and The Ark will show up to a few races over the year for a bunch of crazed animals to paddle and have fun on. Annabel said that paddling The Ark was one of the most fun times she has had at a SUP race—pretty cool.”

STANDUPpaddlemagazine.COM /

Q UIVERS & W H EE L S D ICK AND D ANE D E BOE R

The twin amas for twin brothers. People who don’t know them do a double take.

“THE ARK WILL SHOW UP AT A FEW MORE RACES THIS YEAR FOR A BUNCH OF CRAZED ANIMALS TO PADDLE AND HAVE FUN ON.” 94 / SPMagazine / VOL 7Nº2 2O15

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QUIVERS & WHEELS MIKE TESSIER

By Paul Ensyde Photo courtesy: Mike Tessier

BE LIKE MIKE Mike Tessier L A K E TA H O E , C A L I F O R N I A

Mike Tessier grew up in high altitude, where life is simple with a quiver of recreational equipment: mountain bike, snowboard, golf bag, skateboard, snowboard, Lakeshore Paddle Company Heavenly AIR, Stealth, River Rover, fly-fishing pole, rock climbing shoes and chalk bag, and of course, the “Wheels”: a fuel-efficient Honda Element. There’s no need for a 10-board quiver unless the swells start to really roll in the mountains. When you have every outdoors lifestyle necessity— you have everything you need for yonecessity, you have everything you need for your quiver and wheels. Just remember to keep it real and be like Mike!

Tessier (in red) and Sean Adlao summer testing touring boards.

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“THE BEAUTIFUL THING ABOUT BEING AT A HIGHER ALTITUDE IS THAT IT BRINGS A FULL SLATE OF ACTIVITIES TO DO, CATERING TO AN ACTIVE LIFESTYLE YOU CANNOT HAVE AT SEA LEVEL.”

Somewhere in the High Sierras, Mike is ready to ride, no matter the season.

STANDUPpaddlemagazine.COM /

QUIVERS & W H EELS FRANZ ORS I

By Paul Ensyde Photos courtesy: Franz Orsi

I’m driving a Fiat Ducato van (marketed in the U.S. as Ram ProMaster after Fiat’s acquisition of Chrysler Group). It features a 2.3cc diesel engine Multijet and a four-door configuration that makes it very practical for transporting lots of boards. I bought this van back in 2009. At that time I wasn’t into paddleboarding yet; I was 100 percent dedicated to windsurfing. Back then this van seemed to be the perfect option with its 260cm of loading space in the back. As soon as I got into stand up paddling, I realzed that the race boards didn’t fit, so I had to equip it with some roof racks. Usually, I keep the wave boards, the surfboards and the windsurf gear in the van while the race boards go on the roof. Luckily Starboard recently came out with some cool compact touring boards under 10 feet that I can fit in the van with no problem. My quiver consists of the following, from left to right: - Starboard Pocket Touring 10’6” X 29.5” - Starboard Carbon High-Aspect paddle - Starboard Race 12’6” X 25.5” - Starboard Carbon Enduro paddle - Starboard Surf Pro 8’ X 28” - Starboard surfboard prototype 6’1” - Prolimit Mercury 3/2 wetsuit hanging on the door - Starboard windsurf board Black Box - custom wooden alaia board - Starboard surfboard AMP 5’8” - Starboard inflatable SUP board Astro Touring 12’6” X 31” - Starboard three-piece Carbon Enduro paddle - Starboard dry bag

I love this van; even if it is a bit small for SUP boards, it is the perfect companion for my camping weekends. I love to take my van to some lake or river somewhere in Portugal’s backcountry and sleep in it for a couple of nights. I built a wooden structure that supports a big double bed. I didn’t want to build anything more than this simple bed, because I wanted to retain all the ﬂexibility needed to load SUP, windsurf, surf and biking gear. “Live simple” is the motto here! This shot was taken in Praia do Guincho during a typical winter sunset. In the background, you can see Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe. Praia do Guincho is my home spot: I live literally 500 meters from there. It can be a hardcore surf spot during wintertime, but a perfect SUP wave spot when the Atlantic swells are not too big (it is very exposed to northwest swells, the primary source of swell in Portugal). During summertime, it turns into one of the best European spots for wave sailing. So, I can’t complain about the place I live in. One thing I also love about Guincho is all the great trail running and mountain bike options just

HEAD OUT ON THE HIGHWAY, LOOKINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; FOR ADVENTURE Franz Orsi CASCAIS, PORTUGAL

STANDUPpaddlemagazine.COM /

QUIVERS & W H EELS FRANZ ORS I

a few kilometers away—I like to go running in the morning along its rugged coastline. I like to think I am an all-around paddler and an outdoor fanatic. I like riding waves (certainly this is one of the main reasons I moved to Portugal), but I also have an innate love for the wilderness. SUP allowed me to combine both aspects in one single sport. I like SUP waves, but I also like to go for a little paddling adventure during the weekend on one of the many lakes or rivers in Portugal. Usually, I bring an inﬂatable board, a three-piece paddle and a tent, leaving behind all the stress of city life for a couple of days as I go “into the wild” via SUP. During the week, I also train on my race board in the morning or in the afternoon, whenever it possible. Recently I discovered whitewater paddling, and I fell in love with it; that’s something I look forward to doing more. Coming from a windsurﬁng background, this unique characteristic of SUP, being able to combine a radical approach to the sport (riding waves and going for whitewater sessions) with a more relaxed, “slow” approach (touring and exploration), really made me fall in love with the sport. It is part of life now, and I could never change it.

I LIKE TO THINK I AM AN ALL-AROUND PADDLER AND AN OUTDOOR FANATIC. I LIKE RIDING WAVES (CERTAINLY THIS IS ONE OF THE MAIN REASONS I MOVED TO PORTUGAL), BUT I ALSO HAVE AN INNATE LOVE FOR THE WILDERNESS.

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Franz Orsi, Starboard staff photographer and team rider, immersed in his own habitat: Portugal’s westernmost coast.

Powerful Portuguese beach breaks are second to none. Franz enjoys his home break, Praia do Guincho, on a classic day.

This is Guincho: Some fun waves surrounded by a breathtaking landscape. Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of continental Europe.

Feeling the stoke after a great session at Guincho. Lisbon area has a pretty mild climate, but a full wetsuit is required all year.

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