RENASCENCE Magazine | Issue No.1 by RENASCENCE Magazine

RENASCENCE magazine Issue No.1 / African Rise / Autumn Winter 2015 Lunga Chris / Jimi Ogunlaja / Eugon McNeil Adebayo Okelawal / Mzukisi Mbane / Coréon Dú

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contents Editor’s Note Opinion by Monde Mtsi Opinion by Mikel Monroe Profile... Lunga Chris Profile... Jimi Ogunaja Profile... Eugon McNeil Grooming... 11 Skincare Essentials Opinion... Editor’s Choice Interview... Adebayo Okelawal Interview... Mzukisi Mbane Interview... Coréon Dú Fabrics of Africa Ground Zero Luxe War Port Last Word / #Throwback

...five ...six ...eight ...ten ...twelve ...fourteen ...sixteen ...twenty-two ...twenty-four ...thirty-four ...forty-six ...sixty ...seventy-two ...eighty-four ...ninety-eight ...one hundred and ten

masthead\\contributors MONDE MTSI editor LINDILE NDWAYANA - managing editor contributor - LARRY ENGLISH - photography MIKEL MONROE - copy editor contributor - LUXOLO POYO - photography SONGZ NKOMO - layout designer contributor - LYNN LE ROUX - make up artist

Questions, comments, and contribution enquiries can be forwarded to renaissancemensa@gmail.com 4

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editor’s note Putting together a magazine is no joke. From getting the idea, researching the options, developing the concept, putting the content together to laying out the magazine and rallying a team of freelance contributors - it’s quite hefty work. But, we’re here. It’s the second release from RENASCENCE, yet in actual fact, it’s the first official instalment of many to come. Issue No.1 is simply titled, ‘African Rise’. A theme or summary of what is currently happening in the world with regards to Africa. The world has once again turned its eye on Africa and seemingly ‘rejoicing’ as if we are a new discovery. In this issue we celebrate men(swear) with the profiling three African models who are making waves in their own right; whether it’s Jimi and his business achievements, Lunga with his international magazine cover scoops or Eugon with his European catwalk trails - these are African faces that are making an impact and we salute them. We also highlight three African creatives who are stamping their designs into the minds of the world and leaving a mark. From South Africa’s Mzukisi Mbane, who is trailblazing locally, Coréon Dú whose multi-disciplinary skills are awarding him international recognition or Adebayo Okelawal whose Nigerian clothing label is dressing the men of the world - these are the hands that stitch together a new tapestry of what Africa has to offer. Celebrate with us, celebrate with them. In the end, you are African first. We hope you enjoy this read. Till we meet again...

monde mtsi

On The Cover

Photographer - Ogoh Clem Model - Damien Eze (Beth Models) Image Copyright Ogoh Clem/Damien Eze

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#voxPOPULI

Normcore vs. Normcore Whether you’re the white tee and jeans kind of dude or the tailored suit and brogues guy, fashion affects you and your sense of belonging and community. Monde Mtsi voices his opinion on whether normcore is anything different to neo-normcore. Is there anything different about the art of dressing down when compared to the new trend of dressing up.

My opinion is that none of us can escape fashion. We may revolt against or accept it consciously, the fact will remain, it is all around us and we partake in it everyday when we wear any form of garment. So when ‘Normcore’ kicked into full blast around early 2014, I was amused; perhaps I should say, I was bemused amusedly. Here was a trend all about being anti-fashion. All about being normal in a hardcore way. The term popped up on the international circuit in a trend report titled, ‘Youth Mode: A Report On Freedom’, by forecast agency, K-Hole. In their report, the term normcore was more about behaving in a certain way: doing what the majority wants, liking the same sports as the community you live in. Soon, this behaviour was extended to dressing the same as everyone else. So was normcore from a fashion point-of-view born? Yes. The second the globe started dressing like Steve Jobs and Jerry Seinfeld, normcore materialized itself in one of the world’s more prominent consumer formats. Plain white t-shirts, standard leg jeans in a normal wash, mock turtlenecks, hoodies, short-sleeved shirts and chino pants all of a sudden were the ‘it’ items. The world started filling up with what looked like discount store mall rats. Everyone dressed in a particular way in order not to stand out of from the crowd, to blend in, yet collectively, they all stood out because they were dressed differently to the rest.

to calm down and slow the pace down before they find themselves consumed by it all. Individualism never hurt anyone. People hurt other people. In our craze to be different we sometimes forget that it’s okay to be the same. Being mundane because that is who you are is cool. Mundane because you’re acting like it is just a farce. A year later and we now find an interesting type of Neo-Normcore emergence rising. Much like normcore where it’s all about going against the grain in a bid to be the same differently, here we see the same methodology but in a flamboyant manner. This rise of dapperly dressed guys, standing up for their right to fashion and their right to be masculine within fashion. Out and about they are in their two- or three-piece suits, with shirts collared with either ties or bowties. Shoes polished for punishment with a lapel-pin and pocket square to boot. Neo-normcorism (if that’s even a word), even includes accessories such as man-bags, gloves and scarves. So what is this all about now again? Are we fighting against normcore with this new move towards dressing up to the nines on a 9-5 basis? Are we absolving ourselves from the lack of fashion that normcore had introduced?

So just how anti-fashion are you when you’re following a fashion trend – looking like everyone else?

We all look the same and rely on genuine great personalities to stand out and be different. In the end, you are not alone with your style and will find yourself with a few others who look the same, making you unwittingly, part of something more than just you.

I get it. In the chaos of fast-track fashion, where things change almost every two weeks, one needs

So whether normcore or neo-normcore, chill, just get your fashion on point and your style across. MM 7

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#voxPOPULI

One More Fashion Week We all love a good week of full-on fashion; it’s what we fashion folk partly live for. Yet in an ocean of fashion weeks in a tiny pond, do we really need one more? Our staff writer, Mikel Monroe ponders whether there is enough time in a year, venues in the country, designers in this nation, financial resources at hand to host yet another independent fashion week.

There are four seasons in a year, whether you’re in the Northern Hemisphere or Southern. These four seasons are then grouped into two seasonal fashion cycles: Spring Summer and Autumn (Fall) Winter. So why so many fashion weeks, by so many organizers, for the same community of fashion media, critics, buyers, distributers and consumers? As it stands, South Africa experiences eight official fashion weeks. Amongst these eight, as the year progresses, one hears of a small fashion week or day or fair popping up in a location unexpected. You ask yourself if ‘there’s really a need for that platform and those designers to showcase there instead of the already established platforms’. You start to think if it’s because some fashion weeks are an expensive exercise to showcase in: whether it’s the cost of putting on an extravagant show or creating the actual collection, maybe even the participation fee some platforms charge is the hurdle. But, do we really need to be segregated and classist? Is the point of fashion weeks not to showcase the established and to uplift the emerging? We only need four fashion weeks a year and possibly two industry platforms to launch emerging talent and secure their industry development. If that’s the case, we need two menswear weeks a year and two women’s wear weeks a year. So now that we have established this, who will take the jump, drop their pretence and give up their platform to collaborate with another in order to restore sanity to our local fashion week industry? The fact of the matter is that it because a circus at times, having to plan your life, work schedule and wardrobe around eight fashion weeks. In all the

chaos, one sometimes discovers two fashion weeks have been scheduled for the same month – even the same week. Then you watch the social media timelines dissect the animosity and bet who will cave and change their fashion week dates. It’s not healthy. There is seemingly an illustration by fashion week organisers that the designers are being forgotten and the profits of ticket sales are being worshipped. Grant, all businesses strive to make a profit so they are able to sustain themselves, but at what cost? At whose cost? We are years into experiencing fashion weeks in South Africa yet one continues to see the same designers showcasing at the same platforms with very little design, inspiration and creativity development visible. The young designers who are hungry and providing fresh contexts for the clothes we were are not getting enough exposure and propelling because the fashion circles are so small, certain platforms for opportunity are closed to those who don’t know the inner circle. Thank goodness for platforms such as Rising Star Design Award and Fasttrack and New Talent Search for being available to allow the young ones an opportunity to shine and to show their talent. With all of that said, a better system for scouting, curating and developing young talent needs to be conceptualized. The number of fashion weeks we are exposed to needs to be decreased to two menswear weeks and two women’s wear weeks. If big labels in SA want to showcase ranges outside the seasonal cycle, like Resort for instance, they should do that at their own expense using their own resources. Just saying. MM 9

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#thePROFILE

lunga Your top 3 South African mens-

Your full name is… Lunga Chris. But you prefer being called…

What’s the last song you listened

wear designers/brands?

to?

Adriaan Kuiters, Skorzch and Craig

All Day by Kanye West.

Native.

What do you always carry with

You model. Your face is your com-

you?

modity. What’s your industry-in-

Lip balm.

sider to grooming perfection?

Lunga (by people who don’t know me). You are represented by…

I use a few products from Lush.

BOSS Model Management, Cape Town.

What was the last country (or city)

Otherwise water and gym.

you visited and what did you do How long have you been a profes-

there?

What do you do outside model-

sional model?

Knysna / Plettenberg Bay / Worces-

ling?

Six years.

ter - Family time out, bungee jump-

Shooting videos (as in everything

ing and some sight-seeing.

behind the camera), play table ten-

Did you walk into an agency or

nis, gym and watch The Godfather

were you discovered?

What do you aspire to have or

Discovered and called in.

achieve in 5 years?

for the umpteenth time.

Working or having worked in Par-

Any advice for guys looking to get

What do you love about modeling?

is, London and New York. Studying

into modelling?

The level of respect I have earned

something else also would be great.

Greet. Don’t take things personal. Respect everyone. Be cool and fin-

from my colleagues. Who is your favourite designer to

ish the job.

What do you enjoy doing outside

model runway for?

modelling and with whom?

Adriaan Kuiters, Craig Native and

Any shout outs?

Taking things easy with the people I

Non European.

To everyone, look after yourself.

love. I love street soccer, as well. 10

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#thePROFILE

jimi Your full name is…

What’s the last song you listened

wear designers/brands?

Jimi Owobo Ogunlaja.

to?

Fabiani, Carducci and Stiaan Louw.

Wine Slow by Gyptian. Your top 3 African Menswear de-

But you prefer being called… What do you always carry with

signers?

you?

Laurenceairline,

Money and positive energy.

Stiaan Louw.

What was the last country (or city)

You model. Your face is your com-

How long have you been a profes-

you visited and what did you do

modity. What’s your industry-in-

sional model?

there?

sider to grooming perfection?

10 great years.

Dubai. For a secret holiday. Lol.

Healthy living, exercise and medita-

Jimi or Jimee. (Laughs) You are represented by…

MaXhosa

and

BASE Models, Cape Town.

tion (Prayer). Did you walk into an agency or

What do you aspire to have or

were you discovered?

achieve in 5 years?

Any advice for guys looking to get

I was discovered in Nigeria.

I would have established Jimisterio

into modelling?

Productions and a programme on

Models must solidify their educa-

DSTV Africa.

tional background. However, re-

What do you love about modeling?

main loyal to the modeling game

I love how it empowers self redefinition and transformation. I love

Who is your favourite designer to

the money and glamour too..

model runway for?

too.

I must confess, I love every designer

Any shout outs?

What do you enjoy doing outside

I’ve walked for, but, Fabiani shows

To my mother, siblings & entire fam-

modelling and with whom?

always pull the magic out of me.

ily. My loyal friends & well wishers. All great minds & positive thinkers,

Promoting events and hosting VIP parties in reputable clubs like Coco. 12

Your top 3 South African mens-

good hearts & happy people. Love.

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#thePROFILE

eugon Your full name is… Eugon Mc Neil Zequal Ontong. But you prefer being called… Eugon. You are represented by… BASE Models, Cape Town. How long have you been a professional model? 1year and 8months. Did you walk into an agency or were you discovered? i walked into the agency but before that i was discovered at a wedding by Shane Bezuidenhoudt. What do you love about modeling? Travelling and having the opportunity to meet so many inspirational people. What do you enjoy doing 14

outside modelling and with whom? Hanging out with my mom and on the track working out.

Your top 3 South African menswear designers/brands? David Tlale, Fabiani & Craig Port.

What’s the last song you listened to? Ja Rule feat Ashante - Mesmerize.

You model. Your face is your commodity. What’s your industry-insider to grooming perfection? My grooming consist of washing my face twice a day with cetaphil, drinking water and keeping out of the sun as much as possible so I always wear a hat when its sunny outside.

What do you always carry with you? My ipod . What was the last country (or city) you visited and what did you do there? Paris for a show and to shoot for Vogue Italia. What do you aspire to have or achieve in 5 years? I want to become a well-known model across the world of fashion and be an inspiration to upcoming models.

Any advice for guys looking to get into modelling? Always be confident and dont let negativity get you down. Any shout outs? Shout out to everyone who knows me, those who helped me become who i am, including the people who write about me and agency, BASE Models.

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#groomSKINCARE

clean up day & night

homme grooming products to make sure you’re on point - every time

words by Monde Mtsi | images Supplied

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n o i t

n io

5. DA Y

a it v

2. D AY ac ti

t va

#groomSKINCARE

H G I

3. N I G H T

n o i t va i t c

1. DAILY activation

tiv

on a ti

4. D A Y /N

1. DAILY activation: Oil of Morocco Argan Oil Body Butter, R144.95 | 2. DAY activation: Philips Shaver Series 9000, R3999 | 3. NIGHT activation: Raulph Lauren POLO Red Intense, R1245 | 4. DAY/NIGHT activation: Redken for Men Clean Brew Shampoo, R286 | 5. DAY activation: Vichy Homme Hydra Mag C+ Anti-Fatigue Hydrating Care Face & Eyes, R369 17

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#groomSKINCARE

6 NIGHT activation

7 NIGHT activation

9 DAY/NIGH

8 DAY activation

6. NIGHT activation: Baxter of California Night Cream AHA, R350 | 7. NIGHT activation: Clarins MEN Line-Con Lanc么me MEN Hydrix Micro-Nutrient Moisturizing Balm, R380 | 10. DAY/NIGHT activation: Lipidol Cle 18

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#groomSKINCARE

11 DAY activation

HT activation

10 DAY/NIGHT activation

ntrol Eye Balm, R345 | 8. DAY activation: Dr. GOBAC Facial Sunscreen SPF25, R340 | 9. DAY/NIGHT activation: eansing Body Oil, R79.95 | 11. DAY activation: YvesSaintLaurent Kouros Silver Eau De Toilette, R1â&#x20AC;&#x2122;089 19

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#voxP 1.

Editor’s

The life of a jet-setter should soar - all the time set items for every guy on the road to keep t

3. 5.

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POPULI

s Choice

10.

e. Our Editor, Monde Mtsi, selects his ideal jetthem on trend, on point and check-in ready.

11.

ury Gold | 3. Converse Chuck Taylor All Star Rubber Sneakers in Red | 4. Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio Perfum in Navy with Tan Trim | 8. Kiehl’s Rare Earth Pore Minimizing Lotion | 9. Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate 75 International Anniversary Carry-On in Tan 23

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#theINTERVIEW

is for...

debayo

A designer, passionate entrepreneur, shortlist finalist of the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennesey Prize, a quarter of the African Design Showcase at Pitti Uomo 88. RENASCENCE Magazine sits briefly with the Creative Director of Orange Culture to talk passion, tributes and fashion. Interview by Monde Mtsi | Photographs Copyright Orange Culture 24

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o Okelawal...

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“ ...everyone is trying to gravitate towards creating clothes for the adventurous man...

”

RM: Please introduce yourself, the way you would love to be introduced to others? Adebayo Okelawal: My name is Adebayo Okelawal. I’m a guy privileged enough to do what he loves!

moment when you realised menswear was the way forward for you? AO: I guess I just felt more excitement when I designed menswear I felt certain exhilaration so I stuck to it.

RM: We have a huge amount of admiration for you and your work it appears it’s been a long journey. Can you tell us, when you look back to yourself when you were 10 years old and started designing, did you ever think you’d be where you are now? AO: Thank you so much! Well thank God! Lol, tbh, I had no idea. My mum always said I’d be here and beyond, but I only imagined an actual fraction of this. I am thankful to God for every aspect of it!

RM: How has the menswear landscape developed since you officially launched in 2011? AO: It’s developed a lot. Years before the idea of my brand was almost blasphemy, people could not grasp why I would create clothing for men, that was almost controversial and made people think - the idea tormented them; they just wanted to stick to men in suits! Fast forward to now and see what brands are doing, everyone is trying to gravitate towards creating clothes for the more adventurous man; men are beginning to search for clothes that make them question the past basis of masculinity - it’s an exciting time, knowing that menswear has developed so much that people are beginning to think about it!

RM: Have you ever at one point imagined the brand would receive such a phenomenal response from the world? AO: TBH, especially considering how tough the start was with a lot of rejection for the brand, I never thought people would get to this point where they change their minds positively! RM: You once produced womenswear. What was up with that? #JustCurious AO: I like to try things so I tried it out and who knows I might do it again! RM: At that time, what lead to your light bulb 26

RM: There’s a lot of work being put into making menswear worth everyone’s time. From designers pushing boundaries, media people reporting on developments and even governments funding projects or organisations proactively nurturing the industry. What do you feel can be added to the work or extended on to ensure continued growth of the industry and market?

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AO: I do feel the menswear industry still needs a fair amount of support to be honest and a lot more retail opportunities, there might be buzz at the moment but the industry needs avenues for sustainability which requires funds and a lot more platforms channeled to developing menswear! RM: Let’s talk production. How much development goes into producing fabrics specifically for Orange Culture collections? AO: Goodness me! A whole lot of time; sometimes even longer than producing the collection afterwards, I didn’t go to fashion school, so I’ve had to learn a lot about fabrics from touching and bad experiences lol – so it takes a lot of time to decide on – plus with menswear you almost have to be able to find the right balance for retail, men are definitely not as quick to explore with fabrics as much as women are! RM: We’ve picked up there has been a few collaborations with recent major collections. What influences, maybe even inspires, these collaborations? AO: I like to collaborate with brands that I feel are doing things in a very unique way, brands with a strong story and brands that understand my brand - that’s why I’ve collaborated with Shem Paronelli, Alessandra Tempesti, Kene Rapu and Ch.s.e works - they are definitely brands that exude that! 28

RM: Is the general Orange Culture process to develop fabrics and then create collections from that or does it work the other way? AO: It works the other way to be honest; the collection is designed in connection with designing the fabrics - it’s all done at the same time! RM: You’re 7 collections into your career (correct me if I’m wrong). H.E.R., inspired by your Mother is the latest. Talk us through this timeline of collections and the development of H.E.R? AO: Timeline is very tricky especially with Nigeria and international fashion weeks. It is so close that it’s almost scary for menswear brands when producing but it adds to the excitement of it all! H.E.R. was one of those collections that was created with a lot of love. My mum has been a huge part of my career so she definitely made it easy for me to create something beautiful cause, well; she has been such a beautiful piece of the orange culture puzzle. RM: Do you have a favourite collection thus far? AO: I do not! Love them all for different reasons! RM: What are the interesting aspects of menswear for you at the moment?

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“ I do a lot of things outside the scope of fashion design, however, Orange Culture will always be my number one love.

AO: The idea that there is a place for the type of man that I am which is definitely not your everyday man! RM: You’ve appeared in a lot of international media, how has this affected both your personal and professional relationships? AO: (LOL) It’s weird I guess, I’m just focusing on ensuring I’m still me. Don’t want to lose myself in any of the paraphernalia. I can’t say it hasn’t but what I would say is I am in a good place - balance has been discovered thanks to amazing support. RM: We recently witnessed your shortlisting as a finalist for the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennesey Prize. It’s quite a prestigious platform which opens up incredible opportunities. What was that experience like for you as a person and for the Orange Culture brand? AO: It was amazing. I’m thankful for every moment of it ! It has pushed me to push myself everyday to believe in a better Orange culture. RM: Did you get any free Louis Vuitton? AO: Lmao! What I got was worth a lot more. RM: Which African menswear designers/ brands are you currently eyeing out and buying? AO: Except from Orange culture lol! Kenneth Ize and Tzar. RM: What for you puts them on your map that you’re taking note of what they’re doing? AO: They are doing something different. They

”

are making clothes that make you think! I love it. RM: Are there any upcoming fashion weeks we can expect Orange Culture to grace the catwalks of? AO: *lipssealed* RM: List: Your top 3 menswear designers from Africa (apart from yourself): AO: Kenneth Ize, Laurence Airline and Mai (because he has created a brand that deserves that honour). RM: List: Your top 3 African photographers: AO: Lakin Ogunbanwo + Kelechi amadi Obi + Toyosi Kekere Ekun. RM: List: Your top 3 African stylists: AO: Crystal Deroche + Bubu Ogisi + Terence Sambo. RM: List: Your top 3 African male models: AO: Wale Bello + David Agbodji + Toyin oyeneye. RM: What are your top 3 essentials for every guy? AO: Nike trainers (a must) + An amazing scent (perfume is a must) + Orange culture. RM: Orange Culture in the next 3 years, what can we expect from the brand? AO: On the path to world domination! RM: Any last words? AO: Never let your passion go! 33

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#theINT

MZU

MBA

Interview by Mikel Monroe | Photograph

Born into a township t ger than that of his pee who said the world in h talks with Imprint des about what it means to ion designer with a ter Accounting. Do the n ing able to forecast tre to a vision being rea 34

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TERVIEW

UKISI

ANE

hs by Bernard Brand & Mary Riazanova

to dream a dream bigers. Raised by a mother his eyes. Mikel Monroe signer, Mzukisi Mbane o be a self-taught fashrtiary qualification in numbers add up to beends or do they add up alistically achievable? 35

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bringing and love for fashion? A: It’s very interesting hey. I grew up with this secret obsession with fashion. And in a place where fashion was interpreted differently and there was just this vibe. I can really say it was how I used to look at the people around me and I could just see my self in them, I got inspired to create my designs. But yes I became an A student and also loved accounting and Q: How would you describe yourself as a per- logical choice was to study Accounting. son? What kind of personality do you think Q: You are a qualified Accountant by trade. you have? A: I’m a very career and goal driven individu- How is that helping you as a designer? al. Very focused and I always push against all A: It’s very useful. I’m not just a creative now odds to achieve my goals. I’m quite shy and I’m a businessman in the creative industry. I reserved in character, which is something am able to create with the consumer in mind, most people always find hard to believe, giv- consider the market and manage the busien how I always appear. I’m the guy you will ness aspect of it. By making informed business never not see, I always dress up and am al- decisions. ways unique. Something weird for a shy perQ: The road to being an Accountant and that son as shy people always aim to blend in. of being a designer: have these always gone Q: You grew up in Khayelitsha (a township in hand-in-hand? Cape Town). How did that influence your up- A: It’s been tough. I finished my qualification Q: Please introduce yourself. A: My name is Mzukisi, a 26 year old self-taught fashion designer, the Creative Director of Imprint, a brand that was created more than 4 years ago under the company Swagger Diaries (Pty) Ltd. I am also a qualified accountant, born and raised in Khayelitsha - Cape Town.

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“

Imprint is personal to m myself, my life. I’m here t

while trying to build my brand. There have been times where I felt like I have to sacrifice one for the other. But looking at the bigger picture I always found a way to push myself to making it work. And now it’s going handin-hand. The knowledge, the growth and experience in the accounting field pushes and fast tracks growth in my brand.

That’s like the coolest thing since men started proudly wearing skirts. I really see a huge opportunity for growth in African menswear.

Q: Do you see progress locally getting better and strong? A: Yes. It’s getting better. There are more designers on the rise in menswear locally. And men are more comfortable trying new things Q: Your mother plays a huge role in your de- and just standing out. cisions. With fashion, what kind of role has be Q: You’ve been in this rat race for a few years been playing? A: She was my first muse. The first person I saw now; which collection for you has been your who carried style with such strength, grace favourite from your brand, Imprint? and love. She inspires the woman that I dress A: Oh God, my capsule collection SS 14 shown and gives birth to all the guys I make clothes last year. That’s got to be my best so far. I’m for. She is actually the one who taught me still in love. I think that’s where I got to officially how to use a sewing machine. She was there and formally introduce my self to the fashion every step of the way as my support structure. industry as a “real” fashion designer with a distinct, defined identity. Q: With your journey in fashion, what kind of changes or developments have you noticed Q: How do you translate the Imprint story through your collections? in the menswear industry? A: We are now shining the light in menswear, A: it really just happens. I think because this giving value to a lot of unknown fashion cre- is more like a calling for me. It all starts with a atives. There is change in the market and the creation; I just get all these ideas and create. world has become smaller which really push- Then only later on do I see/notice that what I es for more creativity. And yes the first ever have created forms part of the Imprint story. fashion platform dedicated to menswear. And easy, as the Imprint story is my story. But 42

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me; it’s an impression of to sell this story, our story.

”

yes the prints I use, the cut, the inspiration - all wear. They are growing and have a lot to oftell the story. It’s all taken from somewhere, fer. as a result, they leave that lasting impression. Q: Are there any upcoming fashion weeks we That Imprint, the mark. can expect Imprint to grace the catwalks of? Q: Will the Imprint story develop and add A: Yes! I’m showcasing my women’s wear chapters to its book? And can we expect to SS16 collection at the African Fashion Internasee the new chapters in up coming collec- tional – Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town. So lookout for that. tions? A: Definitely. There is a lot more in the pipeline. There is not limit or boundary to the extent Q: List: Your top 3 African photographers: the story extends or ends. I opened myself up A: Simon Diener of SDR Photo. Trevor Stuurto growth opportunities in the beginning. So man. Lenni Tarriq. yes please. In this collection you will get introduced to a part of Imprint that you have not Q: List: Your top 3 African stylists: A: Jerry Mokgofe. Mahlatse James. Gugu. yet been introduced to. Q: Which African menswear designers/brands are you currently eyeing out and buying? A: I am very much in love with the young designers; Rich Mnisi for Oath and Lukhanyo Mdingi. I feel like they have something very new and exciting to say. And I love that. It keeps things exciting, inspires growth and creativity.

Q: List: Your top 3 African male models: A: Lesala Mampa. Sanele Xaba. Dave Kabamba. Q: What are your top 3 essentials for every guy? A: Great shoes. Stylish shades. Tailored blazer.

Q: Imprint in the next 3 years, what can we Q: What for you puts them on your map that expect from the brand? A: It’s about retail for us. Locally and internayou’re taking note of what they’re doing? A: I really just their fresh take in African Mens- tionally. 43

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#theINTERVIEW

CD Coréon Dú!

RENASCENCE Magazine’s, Monde Mtsi, gets some beats with multi-disciplinary creative, Coréon Dú. There’s some noise about a new album, stitches on the fashion line and the lowdown on why merging polar opposite music genres is pretty much the same as discovering your own unique style and using it as an opportunity to create something new: something special.

Interview by Monde Mtsi | Photographs Supplied 47

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Monde Mtsi: Coréon Dú, interesting name. What does it mean? Coréon Dú: I began calling myself Coréon in a personal context after becoming a fan of the show Spellbinder when I moved to Virginia (USA). I´m very drawn to sound, and the sound of the name caught my attention. From that point I started signing some of my e-mails to close friends as Coréon. Then he went from being my alter ego to nickname and then my stage name. MM: You are currently cited as a multi-media artist. What is your full listing of skills or fields in which your talents reach? CD: It´s quite funny because, I´m still not sure whether it was life or fate that made me a multi-media artist. I wanted to study musical theatre in university, but got no support from my parents. As a result I tried to fill that void by learning and participating in other creative activities 48

to pass the time. I started designing Angolan and African inspired garments in 2001 as a hobby for some cousins and other family members, which gained way more momentum than I intended. That led to a brief stint in costume design for theatre and TV projects in Angola. I had decided to “quit” that side of things in 2005 , because it wasn´t a viable business, and only made an exception to develop some textile art for a fashion exhibit during the 2007 Luanda Trienal. Funny enough that was that was around the same time I had moved to Angola after graduating from my Mass Communication & Business Administration degree from Loyola University New Orleans. When I decided to focus professionally in the creative field, I mainly worked freelance doing PR and producing events in Angola and then started Semba Communication by joining forces

with my older brother and his best friend’s website. Those opportunities have been a great learning experience, especially because I´ve worked as creative director in advertising, television and fashion projects both in the editorial and the design aspect. That´s part of the reason although my main passion is music, I´m very visual and enjoy expressing myself visually whether it´s through my personal styling, music videos, the looks I design or even some of occasional ventures into visual art collaboration. MM: For you, on a personal level, which do you love the most? CD: I love art as a whole, but I must admit I´m a performer at heart. I love singing, I love the process of creating music especially because I love collaborating and seeing what happens when my

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musical point of views meet other musicians in a performance, and then what happens when the listener starts to interpret it through their own personal view of the material. MM: Being Angolan yet United States of America raised, how has growing up shaped your personal, cultural and mental identity? CD: At some point, I had to bridge the gap between adapting to my surroundings and retaining my own culture. Being constantly challenged about my own culture and being faced with so many African stereotypes in the U.S.A actually made my will to defend my Angolan and African identity even stronger. I was constantly faced with statements such as “you don´t look African” or “you don´t sound African”, which to me was perplexing being from a continent with such a vast diversity of people and cultures, and from a country that is also pretty diverse

in that sense as well. I think my experiences abroad, really helped me understand how many foreigners see the place where I´m from, and the importance of staying true to who I am as an individual. Often times, I think even Africans feel the need to prove our own authenticity, when we just need to be ourselves and embrace our beautiful cultures in the way that fits best with our own lifestyle and context. MM: Your new album, Binario, is popping on South Africa. What has the process been like writing the music for this album, producing the tracks and finally mastering the album and working on the accompanying cover art? CD: It was quite a journey, most of my music arises from a place of fusion. I myself am a cultural fusion. I was raised by strong African women which probably explains why I made it a point never to lose touch with my roots, however I did spend most of my

formative years outside of Angola and mainly between the U.S.A and Europe. Musically speaking that exposed me to a lot of different and fascinating sounds. I wanted to make sure Binario was a continuation of where I left off musically in previous works. My debut The Coréon Experiment was almost an extreme where I tried to turn everything I loved about traditional and contemporary Angolan music , as well as everything I loved about Pop music into this very acoustic journey. I went as far as making Kuduro songs using Jazz forms. In my remix album The WeDú Experiment I played around more with the electronic side of things, thanks to a lot of the DJs and producers that contributed to it. With Binario, I wanted to compliment what I´ve done so far. My personal disposition is very tropical. I was born by the sea in an African country that speaks a 49

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Latin language, and raised listening to Latin music from across the sea. So Binario, or binary, is called just that because of the dualities of the album. It´s exploring the tropical side of Latin and African music genres, it has a very organic essence with a lot of electronic or technological inspiration, it´s inspired a lot by the music I listened to in my childhood but very much focused on this century and this decade. MM: It’s noted that the album fuses your Angolan heritage with your Latin-world experiences. What nuances can we expect from the album? CD: I do have a fusion between Angolan rhythms such as the Semba, Kizomba, Kuduro and others with latin ones such as Bachata, Merengue and Samba, as well as my favorite elements from Urban music genres, Country , and electronica. MM: From an ear for music to an eye for fashion. As a

creative, being able to create something unique in one genre generally means you can do the same in another. What’s your earliest memory that you articulate as the influencer of your current fashion and style direction? CD: My interest in fashion design funny enough came from me watching a Brazillian soap opera when I was about 5 year old. It was a comedy based telenovela called Ti Ti Ti, which was on TV in Angola at the time, about two dueling fashion designers . Of course the slapstick comedy components of it caught my eye, but then I was drawn by them sketching clothes and then turning them into real garment. That then translated to me trying to dysect and reconstruct the style of some of my childhood icons such as Micheal Jackson, Prince, Elton John, Madonna, and that interest continued throughout my childhood.

MM: Would you say it’s been greatly influenced by your music or your style has greatly influenced your music? CD: Both are very symbiotic. I think when I´m creating things for myself to sing or wear they come from the same place. I have to feel comfortable enough with the material for me to share it personally. For instance, I would not promote any type of song or look that I would not be comfortable with wearing or singing myself. That´s also partly why WeDú by Coréon Dú is a unisex fashion line . My music is made for everyone without any gender gap, so I challenged myself to also creat a fashion line that could brige that gap. MM: Mass media has proven time and time again how music (videos) takes from the street, converts it into a culture assigned to a specific musical genre and then ‘influences’ designers to recreate street looks based on 53

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this for the public. Would you say you have gone through the same cycle with you as an artist and with the establishment of WeDú by Coréon Dú? CD: I´m a bit more influenced by what I´m going through at the moment and my surroundings. Obviously, from a generational point of view I´m an Angolan from the Kuduro generation. Though people associate Kuduro only to an electronic music anda dance genre which started as an Angolan cousin to the Western Raver culture, it has since become a wider urban culture. It values personal expression, which means you have to let go of the fear of mixing different and even contradicting visual ideas into one place. At the moment my inspiration is coming more from Angolan heritage, than from the streets per say, though as as city dweller and world citizen I´m always absorbing thrings from various urban surround54

ings. So WeDú by Coréon Dú is more so my way of incentivizing my #WeDúFriends to express their creativity through fashion. They can an idea that I started , which are the clothes, and then should play around and express it in the way that best suits their personality. MM: What has the public’s response been to your fashion line, which is inspired by your street style looks? CD: Luckily it has been quite positive so far. It started out as something very small that my fans would only be able to get at my album signings and some shows, it´s since been picked up by a retailer with stores in Angola and Nambia. Luckily my new followers abroad are also being very supportive, which is why I´m starting the online store and expanding the collection. MM: Do you see Africa de-

veloping into a strong contender in the Clothing and Textile Manufacturing industry of the world, especially in the sphere of menswear? CD: I think more and more international fashion opion makers are researching the very diverse African aestethics beyond their usual trendy tourist destinations. Most importantly of all, I notice that a lot more African and Afropolitan consumers are valuing products designed by African talent and even made in the continent. In order to strong fashion industry, we also need to support each other´s products internally within the continent. MM: In which areas do you think we, as a continent, need to focus on to ensure we collective regain our control within fashion and become an economic stronghold through fashion production? CD: Knowledge is power, so of course all of us should learn as much as possible and empower African fash-

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ion professionals to educate themselves in the most feasible way. The other part of that has to do with the consumer, the more African consumers support the local product, the stronger our industry will become. MM: Which African designers are you currently supporting/ buying and wearing? CD: I´m always on the lookout for interesting African designers, and I must say I was very proud to see how many are growing internationally. The most recent one I´ve discovered is Armando Cabral from Guiné Bissau who designs high end contemporary footwear. I know of his very successful career and was very proud to see his work as a male supermodel. After seeing his collection in New York, I do confess shoe shopping was in order. MM: For you, what makes him strong, competitive and unique enough to gain the backing of your money buy-

ing their garments? CD: Creativity is very important, but the quality has to match it. That does not mean the products need to be more or less expensive, just well executed. MM: Any chance of seeing WeDú by Coréon Dú on one of the South African fashion week platforms? CD: I would love to be invited and it would be an honor to participate for sure. MM: Who inspires you with regards to the music you produce? CD: I´m an incorrigible romantic when it comes to both life and love, but I´m also very realistic and try to stay grounded. Guess that comes with the territory with me being a Libra. As a result, most of my songs are based on my own experiences, and observations about everyday occurrences with a heavy emphasis on love of course.

MM: And when it comes to fashion? CD: I´m a bit of a workaholic and a perfectionist , so it´s also part of my personality to keep researching and pushing myself to improve. However, the feedback from my fans, clients and consumers is very helpful. MM: Define the African version of a Renaissance Man… CD: I believe most of this generation of Africans are Renaissance People. I believe that no matter how specialized each of us is in our strongest interest or asset, we should never stop learning and exploring new interests. MM: What’s next for Coréon Dú? CD: My current focus is to keep strenghtning the bond with all the people supporting my work whether it´s the fans, press and new people who are discovering it . MM

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Suit and shirt by 46664 Fashion, Shoes (not visible) by Anton Fabi

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Suit and shirt by 46664 Fashion, Shoes by Anton Fabi

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Suit and shirt by 46664 Fashion, Shoes (not visible) by Anton Fabi

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Suit by 46664 Fashion, Shirt by Stiaan Louw, Shoes

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s by Anton Fabi

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Tee with matching trousers by Imprint ZA, Shoes by Anton Fabi

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Bulelani wears Havanna frames by Giorgio Armani Jumper from MaXhosa

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Bulelani wears Clubmasters by Ray-Ban, Throw from MaXhosa by Laduma

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Bulelani wears Typewriter Limited Edition frames by Persol, Bomber Jacket from MaXhosa by Laduma

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Bulelani wears Folding Wayfarers by Ray-Ban, Bomber Jacket from MaXhosa by Laduma

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Bulelani wears Chris in Red Velvet frames by Ray-Ban Jumper from Stiaan Louw

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Dave wears frames by Emporio Armani, Bomber Jacket by Stiaan Louw

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elani wears Barnes-Imbnia frames from Ballo Eyewear (top) and Oak frames by Hout Couture (bottom), Indigo Peacoat from Puma SELECT ve wears Oak frames by Hout Couture (top) and Grey Denim frames from Ballo Eyewear (bottom), Grey Heather Jumper from Puma SELECT

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