RENASCENCE MAGAZINE
Issue No.3 / The Model Issue / Autumn Winter 16
Levi’s premium footwear is the epitome of practicality and style. Made with genuine leather uppers, the shoes boast a level of comfort only surpassed by the footwear’s fashionforward essence. The current Levi’s Premium Footwear collection consists of cap toe, full brogue and plain in their formal shoe category. While the boots in the collection feature the Worker and Chelsea Boots. Be sure to be in-season and in-style this autumn winter with the Levi’s Premium Footwear AW16 collection. Available at Levi’s retail stores and Selected Edgars stores.
contents editor’s note ...five editor’s choice ...six opinion by Monde Mtsi ...eight opinion by Anesu Chogugudza ...twelve grooming for men ...fourteen profile... Sean McCollet ...sixteen profile... Anthony Holder ...eighteen profile... Maxwell Annoh Yeboah ...twenty interview... Lesala Mampa ...twenty-two interview... Vince Chase ...thirty-eight Peter with no Pan ...fifty-four Dipped in Denim ...sixty-six Eyes Wide Shut ...seventy-eight
masthead//contributors MONDE MTSI editor Lindile Ndwayana managing editor Anesu Chogugudza contributor (writing) Larry English contributor (photography) Sarah Keogh contributor (photography) Vince Chase contributor (photography)
Questions, comments, and contribution enquiries can be forwarded to renaissancemensa@gmail.com
editor’s note Being a leap year and all, we’ve decided to take a leap of faith of our own and switch it up a little. As we believe we are an organic publication, this for us means the ability to change and provide relevant content to you, our fav reader, that is best tailored and designed for you. In keeping with our standard profiling moments, we feature three models across the globe you need to know. We have a brief chat with models Anthony (USA), Maxwell (Ghana), and Sean (SA). In our opinion piece we take a look at Kanye’s latest offering – Yeezy 3 – and why it is both an appreciation for fashion and a revolt against style all at once. Your favourite pages, Editor’s Choice and Skincare Grooming focus on product items that will remind you what it feels like to live in the lap of luxury. Every now and then it’s completely allowed to pamper oneself without an ounce of guilt. We close off this issue with three great fashion stories featuring some of this season’s key items, including a closer look at AW16 eyewear trends in our ‘Eyes Wide Shut’ story. So whatever your taste, we hope you enjoy and hope you will continue to feedback to us what it is you like to read and find out about. We’re here to ensure you get the best of fashion and grooming content from Africa, by Africans for the world.
monde mtsi On The Cover Model - Lesala Mampa Photographer - Sarah Keogh Production Assistant - Mzuxolile Fali Stylist - Monde Mtsi Fashion - Tokyo James
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Editor’s
A spot of luxury here and there in about. Here are our Editor’s, Mon amazing must-have mo
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1 Meisterstück 90 Years Special Edition Classique Ballpoint Pen – POR - Mont Blanc / 2 L Nixon / 4 Portable Wireless Audio 360 Speakers – R4699 - Samsung / 5 adidas Originals NM with Gold Trim Sunglasses – Ray-Ban – R1810 – Luxottica - 0214866100 / 8 Man In Black Ea – R14799 - Digicape 6
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Populi
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Choice
n your life is nothing to feel guilty nde Mtsi, choices for some simply oments for the season. 7 8
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Lite-Shock™ Spinner (81cm) – R8495 - Samsonite / 3 Chronicle All Matt – Nixon - R5999 MD_RI – R2999 – adidas Originals / 6 Black Noho Drawstring – R11999 - TUMI / 7 Black-rim au de Parfum Spray – Bvlgari – R1330 (100ml) - Red Square / 9 iPhone 6s 16GB Rose Gold 7
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#VoxPopuli
HOW TO BE A
BASIC BITCH
With fashion having its nose so far up in the clouds these days, Editor Monde Mtsi shares opinion on why being basic is going to be the new kool kid factor.
I’m not knowledgeable on what a ‘Fuck Boi’ is… But I have an inkling he might resemble Kanye West in a way or at least be inspired by him. This is not really a matter of fact on personality, but rather on his most recent fashion escapades. From an extensive behavioral list put together for models during his MEGA (yes, those CAPS are correct) sold-out show at Madison Square Gardens during the live listening session to his latest musical offering, The Life of Pablo; to the upfrontly ‘fuck-you’ attitude of his lyrics including the line about Tyler Swift still fucking him because he made her famous; literally to him declaring his future position as Creative Director of Hermes – I’d like to believe Kanye is the epitome of a fuck boi. But this is not about that. It’s actually about no matter how much we love to hate him for arriving within fashion and apparently destroying what we think we have come to love about, he has in actual fact done nothing but raise awareness around fashion and the direction it will particularly find itself in the future – Basic. We might slay the collections, stating it 8
resembles ‘the apocalypse’ or a kind of ‘homeless being’, but truth is, the collections are everyday basics – that we all wear and know where to buy – simply in a more fashion-forward and high-end luxuriously styled format. The boldest move yet from the man with his Yeezy showcases is the fact that geometry and colour have played an even more extensive role than before. A new silhouette, somewhat oversized, shaped and alien, has been pushed further with the menswear division of the collection and an introduction to a new boot was dropped. What I’m trying to get across is that Kanye sells. In a world where fashion exists on consumerism but likes to pretend that it’s inaccessible to the everyday person, Kanye through his Yeezy brand, is saying: ‘Come the fuck and get fashion’. If that’s not enough proof, his Yeezy Boost being awarded Shoe of The Year and the fact that he’s announced the return of the sneaker at a lower price point, should shed light on his power. So guess what, being a basic bitch is clearly the new wave. MM
The Model Issue / AW16 Image by Vogue.com/Getty Images (Sneakernews.com)
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Image by Luxolo Poyo 10
#VoxPopuli
The Model Issue / AW16
EVERY NOW AND THEN YOU GOT TO SWITCH A
MODEL OFF
Most of our lives we are confronted with what a model looks like based on the collections they walk, hardly on what they actually are. Contributor, Anesu Chogugudza, takes a candid look at what off-duty model means for models and us. The off-duty look has over the past seasons become the ultimate style reference thanks to top models who are often seen strutting from go-see to show in the most simplest and yet sophisticated looks. At the core of the off-duty street style’s DNA is prime sophistication with a tremendous hint of effortlessness, comfort and coolness. If you are seeking ways of being different when adapting the style for yourself, the rule of thumb to remember is... Trends are seasonal but style is eternal. // Be conscious of what sets you apart from the rest. // Once you find your distinct style, you can incooperate the latest trendy pieces into your own unique style. Here is how you can pull off the perfect off-duty model look with these items: Denim is the ultimate go-to item. It’s a classic, easy on the eye and holds prime effortlessness status. To up the
ante, a classic 90s inspired pair of jeans, a basic white tee paired with your old school sneakers can be a place to start when speaking off-duty street style. You can easily transition this look from day to night by just adding a denim jack or shirt, creating the denim-on-denim effect. Whatever you choose, be sure to keep it basic. Next is the all-black-everything style including a black leather jacket and different textured black clothing can add instant sartorial sophistication to your style. Instead of layering a singular textured black on black, try to mix up textures and different materials of black and also keep it simple to get the easy the eye effortless look. Now go out there and be great, show the world your unique off-duty style and who knows, you might just end up on the most sartorically breathtaking pages in the world. AC 11
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#Skin 1
Derm
Experience the ulti always feeling lik essentials to ensure dream) moment
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1 Lab Series MAX LS Overnight Renewal Serum – R545 / 2 Clinique Face Soap with Di – R545 / 5 Jean Paul Gaultier Ultra Male EDT – R1095 (125ml) / 6 Kiehl’s Facial Fuel No tigue Eye Serum – R300 / 9 Issey Miyake our Homme Soothing After Shave Balm – R75 14
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nCare
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maLuxe
imate in pampering your skin and ke royalty. We drop 11 grooming every waking (and perhaps sweet t is as opulent as your lifestyle. 10
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ish – R285 / 3 Philips Bodygroomer Series 1000 – R279 / 4 L’Occitane Pure Shea Butter o-Shine Moisturising Lip Balm – R175 / 7 Dr Gobac Wash – R270 / 8 ClarinsMEN Anti-Fa50 / 10 Clinique For Men Aloe Shave Gel – R315 / 11 Oral-B TriZOne 1000 – R1495 15
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#theProfile
sean
Your full name is… Sean McCollet
but to appreciate God even more.
You are represented by… TWENTY Model Management
What’s the last song you listened to? Alicia Keys - Unthinkable.
How long have you been a professional model? Just over a year now.
What do you always carry with you? Peanuts, my phone and portable charger.
Did you walk into an agency or were you discovered? I was discovered by a photographer by the name of Lesego from Lee Photography. What do you love about being a model? You get to meet so many people from all over the world and the feeling I get when I’m on the runway is incomparable What do you enjoy doing outside modelling and with whom? I love hiking, it is one of the most thrilling things to do. When you finally get to the top of the mountain and you see the beauty that is earth, you have no choice
What was the last country (or city) you visited and what did you do there? I was in Cape Town for SA Menswear week. It was absolutely incredible. What do you aspire to have or achieve in 5 years? I always say don’t tell people your dreams, show them. So I guess I will show y’all in 5 years. Your Top 3 African menswear brands/designers? There are lots but at the top of my head...Touch Of Bling by Thabo, CSquared and Augustine. You model. Your face is your commodity. What’s your in-
dustry-insider to grooming perfection? Remember to remove your make up before you sleep. As male models we take that for granted but it is vital. And moisturizing is really important for keeping your skin looking healthy. Any advice for young guys looking to get into modelling? It is not easy but just persevere and don’t leave everything to your agent. Be in charge of your career as much as they are. What do you do outside modelling? I run a PR firm that does publicity for a show called Future Leaders on SABC 1 Any shout outs? Haha my big brother and big sis (Oscar and Princess), my agency TWENTY you guys rock and to my best friends Rami and Teddy for being my constant cheerleaders. RM
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#theProfile
anthony
Your full name is… Anthony Holder
You are represented by… Chasemodelsny. How long have you been a professional model? I think about 2 years going on 3. Did you walk into an agency or were you discovered? I reached out to Chase on Instagram and he said yes! What do you love about being a model? That’s a hard one, there is so much. The coolest one would be meeting tons of amazing people. What do you enjoy doing outside modelling and with whom? Skateboarding every chance I get with the 18
homies! I’m also a fitness fanatic and I recently became a personal trainer so I work out a lot with my girlfriend! What’s the last song you listened to? Future – Thought it was a Drought What do you always carry with you? Lip balm and mini hand lotion lol. What was the last country (or city) you visited and what did you do there? Australia, spent time with my girlfriend and her family. What do you aspire to have or achieve in 5 years? Success in all aspects of my life. Who is your favourite designer to model runway
for? Calvin Klein. You model. Your face is your commodity. What’s your industry-insider to grooming perfection? Moisturizer, lots of water, and 6-8 hrs of sleep a night..and if you feel like it, a nap in between a busy schedule. Any advice for young guys looking to get into modelling? Believe in yourself and find someone who believes in you! Can’t stress that enough. What do you do outside modelling? Skateboard and personal train. Any shout outs? I love you Alle J (my girlfriend lol) :) RM
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#theProfile
annoh
Your full name is… Maxwell Annoh Yeboah
You are represented by… Confidence models How long have you been a professional model? 2 years now Did you walk into an agency or were you discovered? I walked into an agency due to the day to day encouragement from people I met. What do you love about being a model? I love clothes, so I guess rocking clothes by great designers on the runway and also the fact that I get to travel around the world and meet different people from all walks of life.
What do you always carry with you? My phone, because I hate missed calls lol.
What was the last country (or city) you visited and what did you do there? I have not had the chance to travel outside my country, but I have been to the eastern part of my country ....koforidua is the name of the city and I went with my dad to assist him with his work,he is a self employed sprayer.
What do you enjoy doing outside modelling and with whom? Growing up, soccer had been part of me. So I play with the boys when I am off the modelling field and I like to surf online to know what’s trending.
What do you aspire to have or achieve in 5 years? In 5 years I wish to achieve a lot, but the most important ones as far as my modelling career is concerned. ..I would want to see myself in all the major fashion shows, especially in fashion welcomed countries like France,Italy and England among others. Will also love to create opportunities for people like me coming from the buttom basically to change lives.
What’s the last song you listened to? Love Yours by J.Cole. I am a hip hop fan and he is one of my favourites; plus his songs are filled with inspiration.
Who is your favourite designer to model runway for? I think there are a lot of amazing designers I admire, but I would really love to walk for Versace of Italy.
Your Top 3 African menswear brands/designers? My top 3 African menswear brands, I will go for Agi and Sam, Palse SA and Orange Culture. Any advice for young guys looking to get into modelling? You should always keep in mind all you want to achieve depends on you, hard work really pays off. So just work towards your goals and always find a way to win, most importantly God has power over everything, so put God first and trust you gonna make it! What do you do outside modelling? I used to work in a coffee shop but I quit and at the moment planning to further my education as I keep chasing my modelling dream. Any shout outs? Shut out to team Confidence Models, to my parents Mr and Mrs Annoh for supporting what I do and to my siblings Godfred and Jennifer and to my model colleague Prince Tona. God bless! RM 21
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#theInterview
LESALA
MAMPA
Lesala Mampa hasn’t been one to be taken in by the you-can’t-sit-with-us attitude of the fashion industry. Instead, he prefers tapping into the energy and vision of those around him and creating opportunities for deeper connection through an array of artistic collaborations. And after having overcome setting limitations for himself, he credits modelling for being more present and boosting his self-confidence.
Interview by Lindile Ndwayana Photographs by Sarah Keogh
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I’m a fan of your work, particularly the high fashion conceptual work. How do you keep elevating your game? I’ve had the pleasure of working with incredibly talented designers and photographers in my modelling career. The secret is tapping into the energy and vision of the creative team I’m working with which allows me to push artistic boundaries and soar beyond limitations we humans have created for ourselves as a “norm”. By feeding off and engaging in the energy radiating from the photographer and/or designer I am able to live and breathe the imagery they envision for the shoot. This generally forces me out of my comfort zone (which has expanded rather drastically over the past years) and allows my work to mature and evolve. We are masters of limitation, we
limit ourselves every day. Break free and realise your infinite unlimited potential and watch yourself “level-up”. What kind of person were you before your comfort zone “drastically expanded”? I was quite shy in terms of connecting with new people. I still loved new experiences but there was a definite end point/safe boundary I wouldn’t step over. I was far more interested in the comfort of those around me, restricting my personal growth and expression. The creative process, especially during the preproduction phase, is one of the most fun stages in the entire production cycle. What is your role when it comes to preparing yourself for a fashion shoot? In preparation I always look at 25
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the photographer’s past work not only to have a sense of their style, but also to determine whether there is a gap in his or her portfolio I could fill.
confidence and self-worth. I am naturally a very shy person and prior to modelling my self-image was rather low. Modelling commands confidence.
I also look at reference images with a similar mood to the proposed shoot in order to fine tune my senses and movements to the character I am to portray; from the Baywatch beach jock, the lethally charming James Bond to the African desert prince.
It is acting, but not as simple as it sounds. In order to play a role, a truly convincing role, you need to fully immerse yourself in the character given. But here is the catch: for the character to truly shine, you need to add your own take/essence into the role. For example, if I was to play the role of 007 I would have to portray my version of 007, put my essence into it, and not just copy the great legends from the movies.
You’ve mentioned in another interview that the opportunity for growth is one of the elements you love most about modelling. Specifically, you mentioned that modelling opens you up to discover new layers to your personality. I’m curious to find out how has that contributed to your growth and expanded your awareness? Modelling has developed my 26
That allows you to access an element of your personality which you would otherwise not know existed. It gets even trickier in stills photography work where you
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have but a moment, a single image, to portray an entire story. Modelling has also allowed me to become more aware of my movement, demeanour and presence. I’m aware of how people interact with me and how my gestures affect their response. It has helped me become more open to people, ideas and fully embrace the limitless potential each day brings. There’s something magical about how individuals come together, brainstorm ideas while fully immersing themselves in research and creative references – that whole process can live you in awe of the possibilities that may come. Coming together in an artistic collaboration is one of my favourite forms of human connection. We all come exposed and
vulnerable, our personal ideas ready to be shared, discussed and hopefully expressed. It’s a beautiful moment when an idea or concept you’ve been mulling over becomes realized. But the real beauty lies in collaborating with the same artists (who become close friends) throughout your career and watching their art blossom and their skill evolve; the “then and now” of the collaborated work is quite remarkable. The fashion industry gets criticized for being pretentious. How have you been able to get yourself to a point where you are so comfortable in your own skin amidst the negativity? To be honest I have never been interested in the glitzy social and glamorous aspect of the fashion industry. This does have its disad27
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vantages: loss of networking opportunities on a good night out and difficulty in maintaining relationships with those in the industry that enjoy that lifestyle. I solely do it for the love of creating art and acting. The advantage: I’m generally off the radar; nobody expects to see me out and about in the latest trends. [Also], it is not a judgement if you are in this industry in order to go to exclusive dazzling social events and you happen to love dressing up with “you can’t sit with us” written on your face - absolutely go for it!! Live it and enjoy it fully for it is your journey and every journey is beautiful. It just does not resonate with me. I prefer connection; I find that kind of lifestyle just another form of separation and there is enough separation in the world to get on 30
with. In short, just be you, in every single unique and beautiful way. Then you’ll find, more often than not, you surround yourself with likeminded people who don’t judge you. Talking about overcoming limitations and obstacles, those seem to be hardwired into being a being and hearing stories of how people become open-minded and fully embracing of different people and opportunities because of their previous limited views or life’s obstacles is always inspiring and spiritually nourishing. And what I know about you so far, based on this interview and researching you is that you come across as so zen, so aware of your journey. How do you work on your spirituality? By being aware of my soul’s needs through meditation, treating others and self with love, re-
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spect, non-judgement and unconditional forgiveness. Being present in the now and releasing ego. With the booming menswear and grooming industries showing no signs of slowing down and traditional masculine/male archetypes being challenged, it seems obvious that this spells more opportunities for male models. In light of that, how do you think these global changes have shaped your career and male modelling in general? In South Africa and Africa at large, traditional masculine/ male archetypes still hold fast. I find I am always having to “man up” when casting for a television commercial job, even if the role has no specific character reference than just male. For editorial castings it is easier
as it is your portfolio that is presented. However commercial work pays a lot more and is vital to sustain a career in modelling. Another difficulty is that one has to have a very South African boy/man next door look to do well here. Even though I was born and bred in Rustenburg in the North West Province with a Pedi Father and a Sotho mother, my random genetic editorial/exotic features do not work well in the industry here. Most of the work on my Instagram and Facebook are unpaid personal projects/shoots which assist me to continue growing in skill and create art in the hopes of networking with clients abroad who are more open to high fashion conceptual work not limited to a “South African” look. And then of course there is the issue of race when going abroad where 31
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my Caucasian and light skinned black model colleagues stand a higher chance of booking work. However not all is doom and gloom, with fantastic platforms such as South African Menswear Week, where a diverse and varied selection of models are welcome, there is hope for my personal career and other aspiring male models. You mentioned issues of colourism and race - no doubt prevalent in the fashion industry - and also you having to “man up� for a television commercial. This seems to speak towards a broader issue of how some brands continue to pander to societal expectations of how certain characteristics are deemed the norm. Even a news editor in South Africa, for instance, admitted that 32
LGBT related news stories accompanied by images of LGBT pride marches, flashy and hypersexual looking gay men help assist readers/viewers to digest the story. This unfortunately promotes the idea that LGBT people are somehow visibly and behaviourally different thus killing any notion that people could be different. So, after having been in the position of being othered yourself, what do you think it would take to foster a more inclusive industry and society in general? Complete and utter non-judgement of self and others. Complete and utter forgiveness of self and others. In short, Love. Each and every single soul in existence is on unique journey of Love. As such we ARE Love. Love is limitless and infinite. By loving yourself completely without judgement; accepting and
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allowing each and every little quirk and “difference”; complete and utter forgiveness realizing that mistakes are there for you to grow without punishing yourself over and over for perceived wrongs. [After doing so] you then have the space to love others completely in the same light. There is no right or wrong to life, there is only Love. And since we are Love, all we have to do is be. Be in Love. In Love there is infinite understanding and connection. In Love all is inclusive. Great words to live by. Let’s get to the business of the modelling and fashion industries. A female model tends to have much more of a lucrative career than their male counterpart earning 4 to 10 times more - perhaps which may change in the coming years. With that in mind, how would you advice new-coming male models 34
to maintain a sustainable modelling career? Unless you have a trust fund or have “made it” and signed a multimillion rand modelling contract off the bat I would suggest you have another source of income in conjunction to your modelling career. It has been generally thought that men don’t look up to male models the way they look up to a CEO, a government minister, an actor and sportsmen – which is why they often front major campaigns. However men now are seen as their own tastemakers and can connect with other men on the subject of fashion. What kinds of conversations are you having with your male friends about fashion? Most of the conversations I have with males about fashion are with other male fashion designers or
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stylists. My male friends would generally ask me where I got specific item from a shoot or if the item they are holding up looks good on them etc. If on the rare occasion I do have a fashion conversation with a male friend, it would mostly be centred on a good fitted suit or jacket, and shoes, shoes and more shoes. I prefer more chilled flowy garments and cloaks; I find suits a bit too restrictive. I dress up when the occasion calls for it i.e. fashion shows or formal events etc. Otherwise I am very happy in my very chilled casual attire. You’re a model that largely works in the African market, how do you think African men have engaged these changes whether it is the fashion and grooming choices other men make and male expressions that have been considered non-traditional?
As mentioned before, traditional masculine/male archetypes in Africa are still deeply rooted. Walking around wearing even the slightest edgy top or hoodie gets a side eye from African men who prefer the conventional masculine look especially the older generation (including my peers). The younger generation are more open and seem to be more confident in expressing their unique individuality through fashion. South Africa has gone and is going through a lot of change as such a bit of resistance, especially when trying to cling onto self-perceived normality, can be expected. Like most sought after male models such as David Gandy, Tyson Beckford and Jimi Ogunlaja who have decided to expand their brands by taking advantage of business opportunities, is there 35
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something we can look forward to from you in the near future regarding exploiting your brand? I have varied creative outlets alongside my modelling. I’m currently nurturing my writing, creative/art directing and acting side having recently worked on a short film Rue with cinematographer Jacque Maritz which is a story of a gay couple whose lives are impacted by the ongoing hate crimes experienced by homosexuals around the world. I am also working on a few literary pieces including a book. I am also a qualified physiotherapist but taking time off healthcare to spend more time on my creative work. 36
You’re about 3 years shy away from 10 years being in the industry, what do you hope to have achieved for yourself in the next 10 years? I would like to sign up with a top modelling agency abroad; Release a book and a few other published works; Write, star in and direct a television series; Act in a major motion picture, and hey, why not, win an Oscar. All the best with your exciting endeavours. Thank you so much. The best is yet to come. RM
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VINCE.C
For an industry that constantly wants want diversity in the modelling industry a hot topic in Europe and North Ameri founder of Chase Models New York, Vin promoting diversity in the industry and into the commerc
Interview by Lind Photographs by Vinc
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CHASE
to push the bar, we’ve got to equally to also truly become a thing. Currently ica, we chat to photographer and the nce Chase, about 10 years of tirelessly working on propelling models of colour cial stratosphere.
dile Ndwayana ce Chase & Ms Fields
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#theInterview
Firstly, I would like to say that I am glad you are fostering a culture of a united front amongst men of colour at Chase Models New York, regardless of their sexual orientation, gender expression, race and ethnicity. Why is it so important to you that models unite? Because they need to realise that they have a lot more in common with one another than they think. And because Chase Models is a small agency, it becomes much easier for them to bond. I also encourage them to work together. This becomes evidently clear when you see your fellow agency mate at the same casting which then creates a sense of ease during the casting process because it’s hard enough being up against other models from other agencies.
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That sounds great, I can just imagine how that can be a much needed confidence booster. With that in mind, how do you address the models’ strengths and weaknesses through the many obstacles that they face, especially newcomers? With every model being different, addressing strengths and weakness requires many different approaches. For instance, you have models that have the physical look of a model but their mindset is not ready for the industry. And that’s where development comes into play. Development is not only about doing test shoots it’s also about mental coaching and preparing them to deal with certain model problems that always seem to creep up in a modelling career. I always tell my models to be 41
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themselves no matter what and stop looking for validation, especially through social media, and what every other model is doing and comparing themselves. That creates insecurities. Being confident in oneself is definitely a major key in being successful in this industry. You set out to introduce extraordinary models of colour into the mainstream world. In the almost ten years the agency has been in existence, how would you describe its impact on the industry so far? Well as we approach our 10th year I honestly don’t think we have made much of an impact yet. I’m still fighting battles and beating down doors, but I will say our presence is definitely felt in the Industry. It’s just up to them if they choose to acknowledge it or not. 42
Talking about fighting battles and beating down doors, what are the challenges that come with representing models? From the years I have been a manager/photographer I’ve learned that impatience and ignorance about what is going on in the industry and how it operates are the main down fall for many models. You have models that feel that their work is done after just one test shoot and that they should be on a 50ft billboard when actually being a model is a full time job with very little to no pay for a model starting out. And even if you make it to a point where you are booking constant jobs, there are seasons when getting jobs becomes slower. Most of all, what plays into a modern day model’s feeling of entitle-
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ment is their obsession with how many followers and how many likes they accumulate. And in extreme cases, the thirsty measures one goes to gain these likes and followers. Let’s talk about issues of diversity and racism in the industry. Firstly, what are your thoughts today in 2016 about ‘black faces’ apparently not creating the appeal required for magazine and fashion purchases? I feel that we are at the beginning of a new era where black faces will be just as much seen as the whites but again there is more work that needs to be done. Black people around the world right now are showing so much pride in their cultures, being more self aware and engaging the many issues that our community faces thanks to the help of social
media and technology. Yes, there has indeed been a resurgence of black pride and solidarity amongst people of African descent around the world. And with that, there has equally been growing voices urging ‘our own’ to support ‘their own’ through purchasing power as a form of addressing social and economical injustices. What is your take on that? We are surely in a time where everything that was kept deep in the dark closet is slowly coming to light, from the history we were taught in school, to religion, the way blacks and Muslims are treated by the police and to the true ingredients that are in the food we consume. We speak so in depth on these issues. And so why not blow the whistle on the fashion media in43
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dustry as well. So yes, I actually do think addressing the injustices is very important. In another interview, you revealed that you regularly fight with some casting directors one of which told you, amongst other ‘colourful’ racist remarks, “send me your guys when they’ve lightened up or a little less black.” How do you deal with such outright derogatory remarks? At first it bothered me but as the years went by I’ve somehow grown numb to the remarks and keep pushing . Then again some who have made those remarks have since reached out. So it’s simply funny to me at this point. That’s indeed funny. What could have prompted them to reach out after making such comments? I felt it’s due to me constantly changing things up and trying 46
different approaches when it comes to presenting the models and staying true to my vision and taking bits of outside advice and making it my own. With PDP (Persistence, Dedication and Patience) you can break anyone and anything down. Yes it’s hard but you have to love what you do if not then what’s the point. What is it that you have got to say about the Diversity Coalition spearheaded by Iman, Naomi Campbell and Bethann Hardison in 2013 to promote diversity in the modelling world? I feel that it shouldn’t just be left only up to those strong and influential women to take a stand on diversity in the industry. We as the people behind the scenes as well should help take a stand in some kind of way to help en-
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force the issue. Iman, Naomi and Bethann came in to this industry at an era where it was difficult for black models. They have seen and put up with a lot and we can’t expect only them to enforce change. It takes a lot more voices to truly see a change. So what role can behind-thescenes people such as fashion editors, casting directors, writers, designers do to promote diversity? They have “say power” and can influence a lot of minds more than they think. Its either they are going to follow the trends or take a risk and do what they feel is right. In the process, they shouldn’t feel afraid to offend and ruffle some feathers. In your view, what would it take
to foster a more inclusive modelling industry? The industry first has to want change enough and acknowledge that there is an issue. And I’m not talking about that one season a designer decides to feel inspired to use a large number of models of colour than usual then go back to the same routine as previous white washed seasons. I’m just saying for an industry that is consistent on pushing the bar with clothing. It needs to work on showing that same consistency on introducing full out diversity. Which brands/organizations would you say have been much more sincere in presenting signs of change in the industry? I would not like to name brands but let’s just say you do have a few high end brands that are slowly getting the memo of change. 47
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But as for the commercial market there are a lot more brands that are open to diversity. So there is a strong chance for change it just takes a lot more consistency on so many levels. Of course there has been noted improvement regarding the representation of models of colour on the runway, with Asians being of particular interest because of the economic appeal of the Chinese and the Asian market in general. With that said, the spending power, or lack thereof, of each racial 50
group has been used as a reason regarding whose skin colour will feature more prominently or, at most, will be reduced to token status. What do you say to that? I feel that is a BS excuse that industry people hide behind when studies have shown that African-Americans spend so much a year in designer cloths and you don’t need anyone’s demographic studies to show that. You can go to 125th in Harlem, for example, and lose count of how many people of colour - young
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and old - wearing some of the latest designer names. Then you also have your popular Hip Hop artist whose main foundation of fans are African-Americans. When these artist rap about brands, their fans run out and buy. So if the black community magically decides to boycott and stop purchasing designer labels and music artists stop promoting these brands, trust me the truth to these studies will be seen and felt.
And lastly, what have been some of the most positive moments during your journey with Chase Models New York? The fact that I can say I’m a few months shy of year 10 [in the business] and that I’m proud to have had yet to give up. Curious as to what the next 10 will be like. RM
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Make-Up Artist Pradah Model Kudzai Chaks (3D Model Agency)
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Three Piece Suit
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Photographer: Vince Chase Assistant photography: Ms felds Photography Production Assistants: Latoya Smith and Tevin Clarke Stylists: Stevie Gates, Carl Lation and DaniÈlla Browne Grooming: Sunni Rogers and Dora Yu Models: SchamGar, Scott Bernard, Jamad Mays, Brent Williams, NatË White, Chuck Hines, Peter Fin, Ishmail Abdus, Russell Lewis, Shevon Hoyt, Moses Daniels, Derelle Conrad, Rae Dunn and Barquail Bradley All garments by: Dipped In Vintage 67
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PHOTOGRAPHER Larry English STYLIST Monde Mtsi MAKE-UP ARTIST Pradah MODEL Rocher Mufishi (Wicked Talent)
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EYEWEAR Ray-Ban Double Bridge frames - Luxottica TOP PUMA x SWASH London - PUMA
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EYEWEAR Ray-Ban Clubrounds - Luxottica TOP PUMA x Dee & Ricky Tee - PUMA
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EYEWEAR Ray-Ban Geometrics - Luxottica TOP PUMA x STAMPD Jumper - PUMA
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EYEWEAR Dolce & Gabbana - Luxottica TOP PUMA x STAMPD Jumper - PUMA
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EYEWEAR Dolce & Gabbana - Luxottica TOP PUMA x Dee & Ricky Bomber - PUMA
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EYEWEAR Emporio Armani - Luxottica TOP PUMA x Dee & Ricky Bomber - PUMA
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