THE
FOOD IS SU E
BESTOF DINING WHERE TO EAT NOW
Restaurant of the Year Fire fuels the food at Acadiana's hottest new restaurant Vestal in Lafayette
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
2
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
3
4
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
5
features OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
26
26
34
We've covered the whole of Acadiana to find the best places throughout the region to eat right now
Travel to New Orleans and the Northshore for a food-centric, autumnal getaway
In the wake of Hurricane Ida Acadianians band together to recover and rebuild
Best of Dining
Food and Fall Fun
Ties that Bind
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
7
oct/nov VOLUME 40 NUMBER 05
12 NOTE DE L’EDITEUR
Editor’s Note
16 NOUVELLES DE VILLES
News Briefs
56
Recettes de Cocktails
A new drinkery and eatery designed to uplift patrons with witty art and creative cocktails opens at the former site of Bon Temps Grill
18 LETTRES D'AMOUR
Coming to know Cajun culinary culture and Chef Paul Prudhomme
20 L'ART
Lafayette artist Kate Gordon's paintings mix reality, dreams and memories
22 LA MAISON
A Lafayette family home attains authenticity by mixing some things old and new
64 EN FRANÇAIS, S’IL VOUS PLAÎT
Construire sa maison sans oublier où elle est
62
58
De la Cuisine
Dîner Dehors
Gumbo season has arrived
Area 337 in Lake Charles celebrates vibrant Latin flavors
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
9
E D ITO RIA L
Managing Editor Art Director
Associate Editor Copy Editor Lead Photographer Web Editor
Melanie Warner Spencer Sarah George Ashley McLellan Liz Clearman Danley Romero Kelly Massicot
A DV E RT ISIN G Sales Manager Rebecca Taylor (337) 298-4424 (337) 235-7919 Ext. 230 rebecca@acadianaprofile.com
RE N A ISSA N C E P U B L ISHIN G MARK ETING
Coordinator
Abbie Dugruise
P RODUCTION
Senior Production Designers
Rosa Balaguer Meghan Rooney
CIRCULATION
Subscriptions Distribution
Office Manager Chief Executive Officer
Jessica Armand John Holzer
ADMINISTRATION
Mallary Wolfe Todd Matherne
For subscriptions call 877-221-3512
128 Demanade. Suite 104. Lafayette, LA 70503. 337-235-7919 ext. 230 110 Veterans Blvd. Suite 123. Metairie, LA 70005. 504-828-1380. 877-221-3512 acadianaprofile.com Acadiana Profile (ISSN 0001-4397) is published bimonthly with a special issue in September by Renaissance Publishing LLC, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 828-1380 and 128 Demanade, Suite 104, Lafayette, LA 70503 (337) 235-7919 ext. 230. Subscription rate: One year $10; Foreign Subscriptions vary. Periodicals postage paid at Lafayette, LA, and additional mailing entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Acadiana Profile, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2021 Renaissance Publishing LLC. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark Acadiana Profile is registered. Acadiana Profile is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork, even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in Acadiana Profile are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the magazine or owner.
10
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
11
N OT E DE L’E DIT E U R
O
AWARDS
n Aug. 29, the second most destructive hurricane in Louisiana history tore through the Gulf Coast region of the state. Hurricane Ida, a Category 4 storm, took so much from so many in South Louisiana. The devastation is truly overwhelming — and yet, there are glimmers of hope. At a time when everyone is already dealing with so much due to the pandemic, the community has come out in full force to offer relief, resources and anything they can to help those affected by the hurricane. In this issue, we are highlighting recovery efforts and offering a list of just a few of the many organizations offering mutual aid, in case you are looking for a worthwhile group in which to donate. When we conceived of this issue last year, BEHIND THE SCENES: Scoops we looked forward to from Loblolly restuarants reopening, Creamery in Little as well as exciting new Rock, Arkansas eateries joining the served as comfort food during scene and decided our managing it would be fun to editor's Hurricane devote as many pages Ida evacuation. as possible to food, glorious food. Feeding people is of course what so many in the region do best and nothing brings people together like a delicious meal, so despite the Delta surge and hurricane season, we moved forward with our food issue. In the Best of Dining feature, writer Lisa Leblanc Berry has traversed the whole of Acadiana to report on the best of the best. From chefs and dishes to patios and date spots, we've got the scoop on where to eat right now. We also have an essay from food writer Jyl Benson in which she shares her cooking education and the role the beloved Opelousas-native Chef Paul Prudhomme played in her kitchen adventures. Meanwhile, if you are interested in a food-centric road trip, editor Cheré Coen has designed a delectable getaway to New Orleans and the North-
shore area for our annual fall travel feature. It revolves around the dining hotspots sure to please your palate. Speaking of food, like so many in the region, my husband and I evacuated for Hurricane Ida, caravaning with close friends to Little Rock, Arkansas. We quickly learned that Little Rock was the evacuation location of choice for many of our Ida compatriots. The circumstances were less than ideal, but we enjoyed meeting fellow evacuees, wandering the city and sampling local cuisine. Our group sampled everything from tamales and pork buns to bratwurst, farm-to-table fare and ice cream. While the offerings near our hotel were diverse and decent — and we were beyond grateful to be safe and have food and shelter — we were still eager to get back home. Even though home was in a hurricane recovery zone. A popular meme made the social media rounds that week. It read, "Quit asking people in Louisiana if they gonna move because of hurricanes. We don't ask you if you're gonna move 'cause your food is terrible." It was a bit of comic relief we needed and had more than a little truth to it. It was like a little nibble of comfort food for the mind. Much like that, we hope the stories in this issue offer some measure of comfort to those who need it — or at the very least it'll be a lovely escape for an hour or so. Take care of yourselves, find comfort where you can and let's take care of one another.
International and Regional Magazine Association 2020
Gold Overall Art Direction Silver Art and Culture Feature Silver Recreation Feature Bronze Food Feature Bronze Profiles Bronze Art Direction of a Single Story 2019
Winner Magazine of the Year Gold Overall Art Direction Gold Art Direction Single Story Gold Photo Series Silver Photographer of the Year 2018
Gold Overall Art Direction Gold Magazine Photographer Gold Art Direction of a Single Story Gold Food Feature Gold Department Silver Magazine Writer of the Year Silver Hed & Dek Silver Photo Series 2017
Gold Overall Art Direction Gold Magazine Photographer of the Year Gold Art Direction of a Single Story Gold Food Feature Silver Cover
Melanie Warner Spencer Managing Editor Melanie@AcadianaProfile.com
2016
Gold Overall Art Direction Gold Magazine Photographer of the Year Gold Art Direction of a Single Story Silver Photo Series
GET MORE ACADIANA PROFILE AT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM AND BY FOLLOWING US ON INSTAGRAM AND FACEBOOK
12
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
13
ÉQ U I P E DE V E NT E
Rebecca Taylor Sales Manager (337) 298-4424 (337) 235-7919 Ext. 230 Rebecca@AcadianaProfile.com
Coming Soon! SPONSORED
(LEFT TO RIGHT) Debbey Ryan, Founder/President Lafayette Women’s Chamber of Commerce; Robin P. Thibodeaux, Owner of DBR (Designs by Robin); Nancy Broadhurst, Executive Director & Chief Development Officer, Ochsner Lafayette General Foundation; Phyllis Thibodeaux, CEO/Proprietor of Absolutely! Custom Apparel & Graphics; Reed Prince, COO, Nursing Specialties Home Health
SM_FoldOut.indd 3-4
11/13/20 5:14 PM
DECEMBER 2021/JANUARY 2022
Steel Magnolias A sponsored section profiling accomplished businesswomen and philanthropists in the region
PLUS Holiday Gift Guide Fabulous gifts from all price ranges for the Holidays.
14
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
15
N O U V E L L E S DE V IL L E S by Lisa LeBlanc-Berry
Scouting Festival Talent ARNAUDVILLE The 3rd annual Maison Stéphanie Festival des Arts will is Nov. 20-21 at 1862 Bushville Highway, Arnaudville, in the Cecilia et Alentours Cultural District. Artists, craftsmen and musicians wishing to participate can call 337-278-4033 or email douetk66@gmail.com. LAKE CHARLES
Hurricane Brings New Name The Isle of Capri Lake Charles, which had its floating casino barge damaged by Hurricane Laura a year ago, is set to reopen in the fall of 2022 on land as Horseshoe Casino Lake Charles. Caesar’s Entertainment says the expansion will bring more gambling space, 1,000 slot machines and table games, a World Series of Poker room and a Caesar’s Sportsbook. It will also have a Brew Brothers Tap House. The $112.7 casino was set to open in May, 2021 but the new resort was damaged by Laura in August. The expansion will create over 300 new jobs.
First in Louisiana LAFAYETTE, KAPLAN, BREAUX BRIDGE
Sleeves Up! Lafayette The Acadiana Center for the Arts is hosting a vaccination event during Second Saturday ArtWalk Oct. 9, 4-8 pm called “Bring Back Louisiana” (walk-ins welcome) leading up to the 2021 Gulf Brew fest held Oct. 11, 1-5 pm, when Louisiana’s oldest craft beer festival relocates to downtown Lafayette (previously in Blackham Coliseum) featuring beer on tap, music stages and crafts situated along the route, with the main stage in front of the ACA (acadianacenterforthearts.org).
16
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
FOR MORE NEWS BRIEFS VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
Ochsner Lafayette General (Louisiana’s first provider organization to join the monoclonal antibody therapy initiative that’s championed in other states) is launching a mobile infusion site to provide high-risk COVID-19 patients monoclonal antibody treatments. A 10-chair mobile unit will open at 2810 Ambassador Caffery Parkway. Once fully staffed with extended hours, they estimate services possible for 500 patients per week. Kaplan and Breaux Bridge have Ochsner’s other mobile units for monoclonal antibody infusions (ochsner.org).
PHOTO COURTESY ST. JUDE'S DREAM HOME
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
17
LE T T R E S D'A MO U R
Good Cooking Coming to know Cajun culinary culture and Chef Paul Prudhomme by Jyl Benson illustration by Sara Willia
My m o t h e r m a y h a ve b e e n the only abysmal cook in Louisiana, a place where culinary acumen is pretty much a birthright. After confronting too many inedible meals that even my 6-year-old palate could identify as dubious, I began to cook in self-defense. Enticed by the pictures, I gathered the collection of full-color Better Homes & Gardens cookbooks my parents had been given as wedding gifts in 1950 and commenced studying. I am 13 years younger than my sister and 17 years younger than my brother, so my parents were tired and paid little attention as I used the household kitchen as my personal laboratory, sometimes with disastrous outcomes. I was a sophomore in high school when my sister gave our dad a first edition copy of “Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Louisiana Kitchen.” Having grown up in New Orleans, Cajun cuisine was unfamiliar to me, and I spent hours poring endlessly over the book and salivating over the color images that were outstanding for their time. Detailed, image-driven explanations taught readers how to make blackened redfish — a dish my father adopted and perfected and one that gained such popularity as to have ultimately led to the outlaw of the commercial gathering of red drum — and the proper away to make all shades of roux, including the very, very dark one that has become standard in my kitchen despite my lack of Cajun heritage. Chef Paul’s first book included his family’s recipe for oyster dressing. My father became so enamored with Chef Paul’s version of a dish for which my dad had his own cult following that he allowed traces of the recipe to influence his own. The merging of those two recipes remains a cornerstone of my family’s “culinary canon.”
18
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
Years after my father’s death I had the opportunity to work with Chef Paul on several occasions. He was as kind and generous as I ever imagined him to be. He teared-up when I asked him to autograph my soup-stained copy of his first book, which is held together with rubber bands to keep all the goodness from slipping out, and when I told him about my beloved dad and how we cooked our way through the book together. “Hi, Jyl and Pops, Good Cooking, Good Eating, Good Loving,” he wrote above his distinctive signature.
That book remains among my most treasured possessions. It is one of the few things I grab when forced to evacuate. It was in my bag recently when I was about to blow out of town for a Hurricane Ida evacuation, until I decided to just stay home, sit it out and read the cookbook yet again. Now it is back in my hands as I work my way through heaps of rapidly defrosting seafood and feisty andouille sausage from Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse in LaPlace. By candlelight, I am starting up my gas range and distracting myself over the comforting labor of a good, dark roux. ■
JYL BENSON started cooking in self-defense at 6 and began writing for a living at 20. Over the years she has written for what feels like every publication on Earth. She is the author of several cookbooks. Her silks include utter servitude to her needy dogs and, more recently, cooking a dark roux by candlelight on a gas stove when there is no electricity.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
19
L’A RT
(left) "Meat Blanket" (facing page, top) "Truly Co., Oz" (middle) Kate Gordon (bottom) "Cheetah Pool"
Dreamscapes Lafayette artist Kate Gordon's paintings mix reality, dreams and memories by John R. Kemp
Dreams are like waves washing upon a sandy beach. They leave impressions that quickly disappear. Not for Lafayette artist Kate
20
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
Gordon, however. Those enigmatic images conjured in Gordon’s dreams often cross the subconscious threshold to become visual realities in her art. “I consider my work to be a composite of consciousness — a layering of imagery from day-to-day experiences, memories and dreamscapes,” says Gordon. “I try to not censor any of the information that comes from observing.” That combination of ordinary life experiences, memories and dreamscapes comes together to create bright and puzzling imagery that demands the viewers’ attention and challenge their imaginations. Her collages are not literal stories but a series of familiar images juxtaposed to create visual and often dark effects.
“Although I recognize that my translation of the world is idiosyncratic,” she says, “I naturally gravitate towards imagery that is comically dark. I feel that there is something humane in seeing both the dark and the light aspects of the human condition, while trying to find the humor in both.” In that sense, Gordon says she is a “storyteller steeped in the language of painting.” But, she continues, those stories “are neither rational nor linear, their beginnings unpacked from dreams.” As Gordon said in an earlier interview by Ben Hickey, curator at the Paul and Lulu Hilliard University Art Museum in Lafayette, she wants viewers to see in her work a “sense of play, a sense of fun.” To create these “neither rational nor linear” stories, Gordon executes watercolor renderings of random and unrelated images as they come to her. She then cuts them up and juxtaposes them against cuttings from other paintings to create, as she says, “a new version of reality.” Next she stitches these ele-
ments together with embroidery floss, thus giving her the ability if necessary to rework the final composition. “In a dream space anything is possible,” she says. “It is not bound by the laws of science, rules of social engagement, or the practicality of being present for the vulnerability of the human body.” The 32-year-old Gordon, a graduate of the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn and the University of North Carolina at Greensboro, is a relatively new voice in Louisiana’s Acadiana art world. Born in Queens, New York, and raised east of Brooklyn in the village of Lynbrook, Gordon made the cavernous leap to Louisiana in August 2019 to teach art at the University of Louisiana at Lafayette. That transition came with adjustments. “Initially,” she says, “I felt as though I was in sensory overload, attempting to recalibrate to the food, music, pace, language, culture and vegetation. My arrival was only seven months before the start of the pandemic shutdown, which further added to a sense of disorientation. During the shutdown, my artwork and the world I inhabited were cosmically aligned in that everything felt like a dream state and at some moments a fever dream. What I have come to appreciate is that New Yorkers and Cajuns have a lot of similarities. For instance, both believe in hard work and pride of place.” Since moving to Louisiana, Gordon has done well. Among other honors, her work has appeared in exhibitions across the nation, including the Ogden Museum of Southern Art’s 2021 juried show, “Louisiana Contemporary.” Last year, Gordon created a one-artist installation, “Alligator Naps,” at the Hilliard Museum. When not in the classroom or studio, she lectures and gives art workshops to various organizations. Yet, creating art and observing the world remain driving forces in her life. “I can’t imagine my life without the constant thread of images, creation, and investigation,” says Gordon. “It is less ‘why’ and more of a sense of being completely and incandescently present for the world as it unfolds around you and then trying to capture it both consciously and subconsciously.” Borrowing a line from Sam Spade in "The Maltese Falcon," Gordon’s art is “the stuff that dreams are made of.” ■
VIEW MORE PAINTINGS BY KATE GORDON AT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
21
LA MAISON
This is Us A Lafayette family home attains authenticity by mixing some things old and new by Marie Elizabeth Oliver photos by Haylei Smith
As the owner of Southern Fete, Cassie Thibeaux has built her brand designing weddings and events that feel both personal and inviting.
22
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
“When I work with clients, the most important thing is getting to know them and their story,” says Thibeaux. “Then I bring in design elements that reflect their world.” She relies on this same instinct when choosing and designing a home for her family. Thibeaux says she and her husband just finished a remodel when they discovered their current four-bedroom home while on a family walk around their neighborhood near West Bayou Parkway in Lafayette. “As soon as we walked in the doors, we knew we loved this house,” says Thibeaux, who was especially fond of the way it combined contemporary accents with Old World French and Creole architectural elements. Among her favorites are a set of hundred-year-old arched windows, reclaimed from a New Orleans church, that complement the home’s Old St. Louis basketweave brick and beamed ceilings.
“All the things I choose, whether it’s the textiles for drapery or furniture — it’s important to have that feeling,” says Thibeaux, of how she used soft finishes and estate sale pieces to make the home uniquely theirs. “If someone were to walk in my home…I would hope it would tell the story of my family.”
Moving in during the pandemic, the family knew a major renovation would not be in the cards anytime soon, but Thibeaux relied on her design savvy to infuse a sense of place and make the house feel like their own. A self-described estate-sale-junkie, Thibeaux filled the house with some of her favorite finds, including a pair of Staffordshire
Interior Design: Paige LaVergne of LaV Designs Custom Drapery: Kelly Leger, k.e.l Designs
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
23
24
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
Custom drapery by Kelly Leger, of k.e.l designs, adds a fresh, country French-inspired look to complement the kitchen’s antique cypress cabinetry. Thibeaux says the cafe curtains are also functional — the sun usually sets right over the western-facing window as they’re cleaning dinner dishes.
A double curved, ogee edge gives the kitchen’s Taj Mahal quartzite countertops an elegant upgrade. Paired with a hardworking Thermador oven and five-burner, gas cooktop, the space is both inviting and well equipped with everything the family needs to get dinner on the table.
TO GET MORE OF THIS HOME VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
dog figurines she discovered with her son Neil, who has been her enthusiastic shopping buddy since he was only six weeks old. (He even requested to have an estate sale for his recent birthday, says Thibeaux.) Though she has a soft spot for items with a past life, Thibeaux’s home is not all repurposed finds. She keeps things fresh with textiles, such as custom drapery. Playful fabrics— a colorblock print from London brand Molly Mahon and whimsical kumquats from Erika M. Powell — give the space pops of personality and allow her design style to shine through. “All the things I choose,” says Thibeaux, “whether it’s the textiles for drapery or furniture, it’s important to have that feeling. I would hope it would tell the story of my family.” ■
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
25
BESTof
DININ 26
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
NG
BY LISA LEBLANC-BERRY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPH VIDRINE
E
ach year, Acadiana Profile celebrates the top chefs and restaurants within the 22-parish region that encompasses 14, 500 square miles and more than 1,400,000 residents. We have explored the very heart of Acadiana to find the best of the best. Resilience prevails, from lunch counter wizards to young rising-stars and seasoned chef-proprietors who broke ties with family dynasties to pursue their dreams in Acadiana. They share similar ambitions and the ability to not only survive but thrive in the midst of challenges, from hurricanes to pandemics, strengthened by a love of food, family and community. The following pages showcase just a fraction of the success stories we encountered. We hope you have a chance to enjoy their hospitality.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
27
VESTAL
RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR
STEAK All steaks are served with bone marrow herb butter POTATOES Smashed potatoes with duck fat, taleggio and chives
Live fire fuels Acadiana’s hottest new restaurant, named for the Roman Vestal priestesses charged with keeping sacred fires blazing for Vesta, goddess of the hearth
Gotta Eat This
1 STEAK Sink your teeth into a juicy 40-ounce, dryaged tomahawk embellished with bone-marrow butter fragrant with fresh herbs.
2 DUCK
Few can resist Vestal’s mouth-watering koji-cured duck breast crowned by bourbon foie gras.
3 FISH
Foodies return to Vestal for the zesty whole fish tinged with olives and capers, finished with a dried tunaseaweed broth, lime and smoked chili oil.
C
hef Ryan Trahan is changing the way Acadiana foodies dine, one flaming dish at a time. The self-taught Crowley native ambitiously installed Lafayette’s first massive woodburning hearth at Vestal, a sleek Southern farm-to-table haven with extravagant cocktails infused with fire. “It’s designed as an interactive experience,” says the 33-year-old Cajun chef. Opened in April, Vestal radiates a palpable, Great Gatsby-esque glamour. Evocative skylit murals and plush velvet banquettes accentuate sleek Art Deco chairs and vibrant mosaics. Lovers gravitate to the flickering flames and raw oysters, caviar and bubbly. Foodies demand ringside seats at the kitchen counter. Chef Trahan is at the open hearth, orchestrating complex live fire theatrics with a tight team of dexterous chefs. “It’s definitely a task, to offer this type of dining experience with a 14-foot fire in the middle of a restaurant and no firewall between guests,” says Trahan. “We were able to create something Lafayette has never seen before.” Chef Trahan’s affinity for live fire, fans and fame developed while he helmed the now-shuttered Dark Roux and Blue Dog restaurants. His 2018 King of Louisiana Seafood crown boosted myriad national connections.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
29
ABOUT THE CHEF A rare diamond in the rough, Chef Ryan Trahan’s culinary interests began with his foodie parents, owners of Frosto’s in Crowley and King’s Truck Stop near Port Barre. His ambitious ascent from executive chef posts to becoming Vestals’ proprietor has inspired the return of his formidable in-sync Dark Roux crew. Trahan now commutes weekly from Denver, where his wife was reassigned.
GIRLS AND CIGARS Bourbon, basil, blackberry shrub and lemon
CAVIAR Bowfin, crème fraiche, yuzu herb salad and ciabatta
“Before we closed Dark Roux in 2017, we were invited to do a 65-person live fire charity dinner,” he says. “We built a ground fire and did a six-course tasting in the middle of a yard at River Ranch. Many requests followed. We’ve been working on the live fire concept ever since.” Trahan creates seasonally-focused regional fare designed to support his top farms and purveyors. “My cuisine is really grounded in Cajun cooking with a classical French approach, but I also incorporate many Asian ingredients and techniques,” he says. Trahan’s enthusiasm accelerates while describing a new dish. “We’re taking on a four-element duck dish using Backwater Farm’s humanely raised ducks because they don’t force-feed them to make foie gras,” says Chef Trahan. “We’ll koji-cure the breasts, cook the legs down into a marmalade with vinegar, use the bones for sauce and cure the duck liver with bourbon for a foie gras, which we’ll shave atop the duck breast. It’ll melt like butter,” he adds. “As Vestal progresses through time and our pantry grows, we’re perfecting new flavor profiles and techniques,” Trahan says. “We’re always evolving.”
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
31
WHAT'S NEW Our upcoming Acadiana Cooks series features non-professional cooks who become our executive chef for a night.
MOST FAMOUS DISH People would go crazy for my carrot cake in Colorado. They came from all over the world to have it. It’s my greatgrandmother’s recipe.
Kim Nuzum Chef of the Year
cafesydniemae.com Breaux Bridge
culinary prodigy, Chef Kim Nuzum’s ambitions began at age 10, winning gold medals for cooking followed by more in high school at the Cajundome, with multiple wins in the Acadiana Culinary Classic’s junior division. After a degree from the Culinary Institute of America in New York and 18 years as executive chef of top Colorado resorts, she has returned to Acadiana. As Chef of Café Sydnie Mae, she is dazzling diners with new fare: boudin-stuffed quail laced with blackberry demi-glace, sous-vide pork chops with cane butter, seafood crepes cradling boursin-stuffed shrimp, lump crabmeat and crawfish blanketed in velvety lobster bisque sauce, rack of lamb with figs, crispy Brussels sprouts with bacon jam, coconut red curry snapper, tender pork shanks with rice and chef’s famous gravy (au-jus demi-glace) and gorgeous soufflés paired with various homemade ice creams (tip: bourbon roasted pecan).
a LAGNIAPPE I’m making homemade jams for brunch. I make everything fresh, from our boudin to boursin cheese.
BEST FOR MUSIC
HIDEAWAY ON LEE Owners Wilson Savoy (Pine Leaf Boys), David Livingston (Lonesome Whistle Recording) and Line Livingston (Line ‘Em Up Music Company) renovated a 1910 building for the jamming new House on Lee. Top bands perform al fresco (see Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys October 7 and the Savoy Family Cajun Band November 7). Try a Hadacol Boogie cocktail with a Leadbelly and poutine.
BIGGEST WINE SELECTION
VIC & ANTHONY’S STEAKHOUSE BEST TAKE-OUT
BON CREOLE
Best Patio
Little Big Cup ARNAUDVILLE You can drive your car or boat to Little Big Cup’s
two-level, verdant patio overlooking Bayou Fuselier. The charming 16-seat lower deck invites intimacy while the spacious, flower-filled upper-level has majestic views. Grab a Tiger Pride cocktail and enjoy chargrilled oysters and bronzed red snapper for a breezy Cajun dinner amid twinkling lights. littlebigcup.com
34
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
New Iberia’s beloved Bon Creole lunch counter doesn’t look like much but it is serving up terrific Sunday barbecue, award-winning chicken-sausage gumbo and overstuffed po-boys. Delicious plate lunches tantalize tastebuds: pork roast with rice and gravy, baked chicken with rice dressing, stuffed catfish with angel hair and crawfish étouffée on Friday. bon-creole.com New Iberia
Lake Charles Honored with Wine Spectator’s coveted “Best of Award of Excellence,” the elegant Vic & Anthony’s Steakhouse inside Golden Nugget Casino attracts oenophiles for its vast, comprehensive wine list with over 640 selections amplified by top vintages from California, Bordeaux, France and Italy. Wine Director Josh Ponthieux assists diners with recommendations for seafood and steaks. vicandanthonys.com
BEST COCKTAIL PROGRAM
JAMES 710 Lake Charles Restaurateur Ben Herrera’s latest triumph is the chic, globally inspired James 710, where Blakelee Kibodeaux fashions a unique, creative craft cocktail program utilizing house-made bitters and syrups for such visually alluring originals as his spicy cucumber margarita layered with muddled jalapeño, tequila, Cointreau, orange, lime and cucumber juices, garnished with fanciful cucumber ribbons. Great with kimchi debris fries and beetroot hummus. thejames710.com
OL’SMOKEY 13 Templeton Rye, Szechuan Amaro,bitters, smoked wood chips
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
35
36
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
with Gulf shrimp, artichokes, peppers, olives and lump crabmeat in a white wine lemon sauce
MEDITERRANEAN FISH
best dish
PROCESS Everything goes under the broiler after it is sautéed and sauced, with fresh lump crabmeat as the crowning finale.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
37
THE TRIMMINGS Chef Barreca roasts the peppers first before they are blended with the fish and shrimp medley.
FISH Halibut, grouper and triple tail are among the fish favored for this light and luscious Mediterranean creation.
nashsrestaurant.com Broussard
hird-generation New Orleans restaurateur Chef Nash Barreca met his wife, Jenny, in Acadiana and relocated to open Nash’s Restaurant in an exquisite circa-1908 Queen Anne-Colonial Revival home listed on the National Historic Register. Couples celebrate anniversaries in the utterly romantic glassed-in semioctagonal Doric front gallery. New Orleansstyle barbecue shrimp, veal Orleans, shrimp fettucine and homemade cannelloni stuffed with baby spinach and veal are among local favorites. Mediterranean fish (sautéed with garlic, Gulf shrimp, roasted peppers, artichokes, ripe olives, capers and grape tomatoes in a white wine lemon sauce topped with lump crabmeat) is frequently requested during the casserole-laden holidays. “It’s one of our most popular entrees because it has the healthiest ingredients,” says Chef Barreca.
T
FOR DATE NIGHT
HOUMAS HOUSE
Take a scenic weekend drive at dusk along River Road to Houmas House for cocktails in the storied Turtle Bar then enjoy a custom five-course feast in opulent Latil’s Landing (advance reservations required for the 1770s French House) or dine at the glass-enclosed Café Burnside overlooking lush gardens. houmashouse.com Darrow
SPICY CHICKEN SANDWICH Breaded chicken, house pickles, whipped burrata and triple yolk aioli
CHEF'S SCRAMBLE Eggs with select seasonal ingredients
facebook.com/fireandoakLakeCharles Lake Charles
Chef-owner Andrew Green’s wildly popular new brunch, available on a patio beneath the oaks, features eye-openers with spicy chicken and jalapeno cheddar waffles, eggs in brioche with herbed bechamel, 1910 Coulis Benicio with jalapeno corn cake, pulled pork, egg and hollandaise and amazing beignets cradling coffee ice cream, banana crème anglaise, strawberries and chocolate sauce.
best brunch
FIRE & OAK
EGGS IN BRIOCHE Herbed bechamel, Gruyère, ham, Helen St. Bakehouse bread
CELEBRATE A SPECIAL OCCASION
Riverfront Abbeville Situated on the banks of the Vermilion River, this popular upscale seafood haven is ideal for big family reunions and special occasions. The handsome bar is separate from the dining room and a wrap-around, outdoor dining area overlooking the river. Order the fire-roasted oysters, masterful gumbos, shrimp trinity, eggplant Evangeline with crabmeat bechamel and celebration-worthy desserts. riverfrontla.com
BEST FAMILY SPOT
PETE’S
Restaurateur Charles Goodson (Charley G’s, Social Southern Table & Bar, The Taproom) acquired the circa 1968 Pete’s in 2016, renovated it and added multiple table and arcade games to the kid-friendly, sportsthemed eatery. After hamburgers sliders and shakes, kids can delve into Nascar and mini-basketball while parents relax with beer and sports on 20 HD TVs. peteslafayette.com Lafayette
Best Late Night Eats
Wurst Biergarten LAFAYETTE The open-air, dog-friendly
Wurst Biergarten is a happening scene with live music, live-mic trivia, comedy night and late-night food trucks featuring Paco’s boiled crawfish in season, crab cakes, boudin, egg rolls, wraps, jerk chicken and spicy burgers. wurstbiergarten.com ■
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
39
FOOD AND FALL FUN
I N N E W O R L E A N S A N D T H E N O RT H S H O R E
BY CHERÉ COEN
O
O
October gives us hope. The sun begins its winter descent, temperatures drop below 90 and the sounds of football fill the air. It’s still early to bring out the sweaters and we’re not out of the hurricane woods, but our hearts lift. It's time to get outside. It's time to plan a road trip. The great weather reprieve makes it a perfect backdrop for festivals. Before COVID-19, we stressed over which ones to choose or if we could make two events in a weekend. Alas, these are unstable times and many fall festivals have been cancelled. But that doesn’t mean fall fun isn’t possible. Take New Orleans and the Northshore, for example, easy drives to some of the world’s best cuisine, hotels and attractions — and many of it accessible in the great outdoors. Big Fun in Big Easy The New Orleans hotel boom continues and each new option offers something unique. The Four Seasons took over the closed World Trade Center and International Trade Mart reopened as luxury accommodations complete with restaurants, the exquisite Chandelier Bar and
river and city views from the 34th-floor observation deck. The Virgin also opened this summer, a hip boutique hotel located in the Warehouse District. The Chloe on St. Charles Avenue combines 14 guest rooms, a restaurant and a bar within a 19th-century mansion, along with plenty of ways to grab a cocktail by the pool or patio and enjoy fall weather outside. “October is a great time to be outside,” said Lauren Cason, director of marketing and communications for neworleans.com. “At The Chloe on St. Charles Avenue, you can sit outside and watch the streetcars go by.” Visitors can spend hours biking and hiking the varied landscape of City Park, one of the largest public parks in America — 1,300 acres. In addition to the park’s centuriesold oak trees, recreational opportunities and the New Orleans Museum of Art, the Carousel Gardens Amusement Park reopened in July and the Children’s Museum resumes after being shuttered for most of the pandemic. The outdoor Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden, as part of the New Orleans Museum of Art, doubled in size in 2019, now containing more than 90-plus
You'll find all of the cool kids at The Virgin hotel in New Orleans' Warehouse District this fall and beyond. Playful design and see-andbe-seen bars, eateries and other spaces round out the signature experience people have come to expect from entrepreneur Sir Richard Branson.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
41
artworks. In addition to its whimsical and more traditional 19th-, 20th- and 21st-century works, the expanded site includes fascinating — and Instagram worthy — water features amid a lush landscape. “The sculpture garden is one of the great prides of New Orleans,” said Susan Taylor, director of the New Orleans Museum of Art. “It’s considered one of the top sculpture gardens in the country.” Best of all, it’s free. Dining options have also expanded since the pandemic began, with restaurants creating more outdoor seating to allow for social distancing. Lilette on Magazine Street, for example, now has charming sidewalk and patio seating. Vals in the uptown Freret neighborhood offers a beautifully designed patio with lush tropical landscaping. The Columns Hotel, always an ideal location for imbibing cocktails overlooking St. Charles Avenue, has been restored but be sure to bring proof of vaccination. Even though many events have been postponed this fall, “P.5: Yesterday we said tomorrow,” the fifth iteration of Prospect New Orleans' citywide contemporary art triennial opens in October and remains on view through Jan. 23, 2022. The event features 51 artists in approximately 20 venues throughout New Orleans. Plans are in the works for Holidays New Orleans Style, Cason said, but some events may be postponed; check the tourism website for updates. Annually, the holiday promotion features hotel specials, historic Creole Reveillon dinners, home tours and more. “Hopefully we’ll have caroling in Jackson Square this year,” Cason said. (Editor's Note: Proof of vaccination or a negative COVID-19 test is required for New Orleans restaurants, bars and some other businesses. Please check before visiting.) Across the Lake Years ago, New Orleans residents referred to traveling across the 23.83-mile Causeway Bridge to St. Tammany Parish as “going to the country.” The Northshore has grown up quite a bit since those days, but a trip to Mandeville still feels like a world away from the bright lights of New Orleans. There are several historic bed and breakfasts to choose from, boutique shopping on tree-lined Girod Street, great dining options, many of which are in historic properties, and lots of ways to enjoy Lake Pontchartrain and the surrounded rural countryside. After rising from a good night’s sleep at Mandeville’s many accommodations, rent a bike fromBrooks' Bike Co-op and take the Tammany Trace toward either Covington or
42
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
(facing page, top) fall assortment at The Candy Bank (facing page, bottom) Tchefuncte's soft shell crab with local heirloom tomato, sweet corn and charred onion salad (left) Lillette restaurant's salad with heirloom tomatoes, melons, radishes and cucumber vinaigrette
Slidell or conquer the entire 31 miles. For a lazier ride, scoot along Lakeshore Drive and watch pelicans darting in the lake waters. Pause for locally roasted Flamjeaux coffee at the quaint The Book & The Bean coffee shop, lunch at Liz’s Where Y’at Diner and top off the afternoon with dessert at The Candy Bank. One of the oldest and largest state parks in Louisiana lies a short drive from the heart of Mandeville — or by bike since the Tammany Trace runs through its 2,800 acres. Fontainebleau State Park owns a unique history, as well, once a sugar plantation of Jean-Bernard Xavier Philippe de Marigny de Mandeville. The park offers
cabins and glamping tents right on the water; nature trails lead visitors into lush oak forest and remnants of Mandeville’s old mill site. For dinner, take a short drive over to Madisonville for seafood at The Anchor, a casual eatery that’s perfect for families, or upstairs at Tchefuncte, a fine dining restaurant helmed by Chef Michael Gottlieb. Both overlook the Tchefuncte River, providing great backdrops to meals, especially at sunset. For more information on fall and early winter trips to New Orleans and the Northshore, visit neworleans.com and louisiananorthshore.com. ■
PHOTOS COURTESY: VIRGIN HOTEL; THE CANDY BANK; TCHEFUNCTE RESTAURANT; LILETTE
44
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
Ties that Bind
In the wake of Hurricane Ida Acadianians band together to recover and rebuild by Kevin Rabalais photos by Joseph Vidrine
TWO WEEKS AFTER HURRICANE IDA’S LANDFALL, buckled trees and downed telephone poles jut into Highway 24 south of Houma, forcing traffic into a single lane. Enter the land of sugarcane and blue tarps, fleets of bucket trucks from which cherry pickers lift linemen in ceaseless work, boarded gas stations where hurricane-stunned locals lumber through parking lots. Out of this destruction rises a homemade sign: “Please Don’t Forget Us.” Along Bayou Pointe-aux-Chênes, where some have lost everything, many have lost most, and power and water services remains rumors, tribal members at the Pointe-auChien Indian Tribe Community Center persevere with the grace of those who have lived on this edge before. At the top of the steps sits Theresa Dardar in a Pointe-au-Chien T-shirt and colorful dangling earrings. “We’ve got everything anybody needs,” she says of what has become ground zero for relief efforts in lower Pointeaux-Chênes. Yet a full week passed before essential items — water, food, clothing, toiletries, baby formula, feminine products, MREs and first aid kits — began to arrive. “All the work here has been because of locals and volunteers,” Dardar says. “The roads are clear because of locals. We’ve had no government assistance. We’re just a little fishing community.” “That’s what they say,” says tribal member Geneva LeBeouf, completing Dardar’s thought. Around them swarm several of the two hundred volunteers organized by Glass Half Full, an entity that converts recycled glass into sand to aid coastal restoration. “We’re going to come out every Saturday until we get everybody back to a better place,” Says Glass Half Full cofounder Franziska Trautmann. Behind her, more volunteers park along the bayou, where an alligator swims past a partially submerged shrimp boat. Farther south along the nearly impassable Highway 665, Greg Beuerman and volunteers from Rebuilding Hope in
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
45
"Everybody covers New Orleans, but they’re ignored down here." says Mark Porter, who owns a camp at Isle de Jean Charles. "People here are so used to not getting assistance, they don’t even ask for it. They just deal with it,”
46
ACADIANA PROFILE
New Orleans (RHINO) have set up supplies at Live Oak Baptist Church. RHINO started after Hurricane Katrina to offer relief to disaster-stricken areas of Louisiana and, eventually, other regions in the United States in need. “There’s been recent debate at church [St. Charles Avenue Presbyterian] about whether RHINO has outlived its purpose,” Beuerman says. “Then came Ida.” Looking from debris piled beside the bayou to a pallet of bottled water, he says, “It’s exhilarating to do this work.” Several miles south on Island Road, Texans Mark Porter and his son Wesley have been, for the past week, the sole nighttime occupants on the ravaged Isle de Jean Charles. “We’re feeling lucky,” Porter says from his fishing camp deck, 14 feet high, as he surveys his neighbors’ losses. The house next door, on eight-foot stilts before Ida, now squats on the ground, bedroom exposed to the sun. On the other side of Porter’s camp, nothing but a concrete slab remains of the house destroyed last year during Hurricane Zeta. A week passed before Porter learned about the extent of damage.
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
“There was no news outside of Pointe-aux-Chênes,” he says. “This is exactly what the [tribal members] complain about. Everybody covers New Orleans, but they’re ignored down here. People here are so used to not getting assistance, they don’t even ask for it. They just deal with it.” Few of the island’s inhabitants have insurance or can afford to rebuild, Porter says. “Nobody really knows what’s going to happen to the island. I’m going to stay until they run me off or until I can’t rebuild anymore.” He pauses to watch Wesley wade through shin-deep mud slathered over the cul-de-sac. “This place has become part of my life. This is the kind of hospitality you don’t get anywhere.” Back at the Community Center, Batman Baumgard, a volunteer from Earth Angel, a company that focuses on sustainability in the film industry, says, “It’s hot. It’s hard to tell someone to do something for the environment. This hurricane went all the way to New York. We can’t keep doing this. This is the time for community and communication. People can help in any way.” ■
Boots on the Ground There are many worthwhile mutual aid organizations working to provide relief and resources throughout the region to people affected by Hurricane Ida. If you are looking for ways to help, consider a donation to your favorite group or one of the below entities: Pointe-au-Chien Indian Tribe pactribe.tripod.com Glass Half Full glasshalffullnola.org Rebuilding Hope in New Orleans rhinonola.org Bayou Fund bayoufund.org Second Harvest Food Bank no-hunger.org Cajun Navy Relief cajunnavyrelief.com United Houma Nation unitedhoumanation.org/donate
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
47
48
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
SPONSORED
Acadiana Profile magazine’s Kingfish section acknowledges accomplished businessmen of Acadiana. Generous, durable and unflinching in character, these Kingfish give more to others than to themselves, and for this they are recognized in this issue of Acadiana Profile magazine. We would like to thank Mr. Frank Camalo with F. Camalo’s for styling and providing the clothing, Danley Romero with Romero & Romero photography for the photography, and River Oaks Catering for being our venue host for the photo shoot.
SPONSORED
From Left to Right Kenneth Cochran, Steve Dupuis, Coy Watson, Noah Brandon, JD Pierce, Jesse Luquette, Jr.
SPONSORED
Steve Dupuis OWNER ASPEN CLINIC Over 30 years, Steve Dupuis has grown the Aspen Clinic—a weight loss and wellness company— from one to nine Louisiana clinics. Leading the weight loss industry, the program utilizes both medical and holistic solutions, including nutritional guidance, vitamin injections, and its own natural supplement line. “The joy of my career has been to see clients transform into happier, healthier versions of themselves,” says Steve. “There’s enormous reward in knowing that a person will live longer and possibly help their family do the same. " A local philanthropist and active supporter of Hospice of Acadiana and St. Jude Children’s Hospital, Steve has served on the Board of Directors for the Lady of the Oaks Catholic Men's Retreat, Safari Club International Acadiana, and Coastal Conservation Association.
CLOTHING PROVIDED BY F CAMALO
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
49
SPONSORED
JD Pierce PRESIDENT GULF SOUTH GROUP KELLER WILLIAMS REALTY Leader of an Acadiana-based real estate group, JD has directed growth from a small, single-location real estate office to a multimillion-dollar organization with locations all across the Gulf South, from Lake Charles to Orange Beach, Alabama. “I am committed to the personal, professional, and financial growth of all of our Keller Williams associates,” says JD. Under JD’s leadership, each location is now the top performing office in its respective community. “I am blessed to be in business with amazing people and am grateful they’ve trusted my leadership for the last 14 years,” he says. Highly involved with KW Cares, Keller Williams’ disaster relief nonprofit, JD sets up commands centers, directs volunteers, and ensures delivery of funds and supplies to associates and their families in need.
50
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
CLOTHING PROVIDED BY F CAMALO
SPONSORED
Coy R. Watson PRESIDENT WATSON WEALTH MANAGEMENT For two decades, Coy Watson has served fellow Acadians, helping them envision their future and laying out concise plans to get there. The New Iberia native founded Watson Wealth Management in 2019 and has steadily grown the company to offer a variety of services, including financial, retirement, investment, and insurance planning. “I enjoy getting to know people, walking them through the process of reaching their goals and making sure they are protected and prepared for the future,” says Coy. “To me, good business is bringing value to the lives of the people we serve, and I am passionate about that.” Coy has served the community in many ways, including being a part of the Lafayette Airport Commission and through international faith-based outreach. Securities and Advisory Services offered Through Prospera Financial Services, Inc. Member FINRA, SIPA Prosperafinancial.com
CLOTHING PROVIDED BY F CAMALO
SPONSORED
Noah G. Brandon, MBA CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER UNITECH TRAINING ACADEMY As a leader, Noah Brandon holds a firm belief that prioritizing quality growth, innovation, and integrity while giving back to those in need is key to success. Since becoming CEO of Unitech Training Academy, Noah has spearheaded positive growth and change throughout the organization, which offers six training campuses and two early learning centers located across Louisiana. Offering online and in-person hybrid learning models, Unitech has approximately 200 employees and educates thousands of students annually. On a community level, Noah serves on the boards of Big Brothers Big Sisters of Acadiana and the Louisiana Association of Private Sector Colleges. He is also a member of the Leadership Institute of Acadiana’s Leadership Lafayette Class XXXIV, ULL Alumni Association, RCAF, and Downtown Lafayette Unlimited.
CLOTHING PROVIDED BY F CAMALO
SPONSORED
Kenneth J. Cochran, DSc, RN, FACHE CEO OPELOUSAS GENERAL HEALTH SYSTEM With over 20 years of hospital experience, including clinical expertise as a registered nurse, Dr. Kenneth Cochran is an enormous asset to Opelousas General Health System as President/CEO. Dr. Cochran has extensive involvement in local, state and national level organizations and has been recognized for exceptional skills in financial and operations management, clinical outcomes, and physician recruitment. Since beginning his tenure at OGHS in 2015, he has been instrumental in driving initiatives to reduce hospital acquired conditions by 92 percent, increase employee engagement by 65 percent, and improve customer satisfaction by 46 percent. Dr. Cochran’s greatest passion is working with the community to improve health outcomes. He contributes his success at OGHS to his leadership team, physicians and staff that he works alongside every day.
CLOTHING PROVIDED BY F CAMALO
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
53
SPONSORED
Jesse Luquette, Jr., DEALER/OWNER SERVICE CHEVROLET CADILLAC In the automotive business since the early 1970s, second generation Dealer Jesse Luquette, Jr. has developed a healthy respect for the hardworking, top-caliber employees at Service Chevrolet Cadillac who not only give their all for the company but who also work hard for the community. “What I witnessed of our staff immediately after the hurricane was amazing—they donated hard-earned money, gathered supplies, and cooked for hundreds of hurricane victims who had nothing left,” says Jesse. “It is people like this who have made the company what it is today, and I feel blessed to work with these individuals.” Jesse is also proud to know that the company they’ve helped build supports around 200 families in the community every year.
54
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
55
RECET T E S DE CO C K TA I LS
Of Whiskey and Whimsey A new drinkery and eatery designed to uplift patrons with witty art and creative cocktails opens at the former site of Bon Temps Grill by Lisa LeBlanc-Berry photo by Romero & Romero
The hotly anticipated Mercy Kitchen in Lafayette (mercy-kitchen.com), opened in September, is an “elevated casual” concept that was birthed during the pandemic by owner Stuart Ottinger (founder of Oxford Provisions Group) “to provide an escape from the madness.” He engaged designer Kelly Sutton (Four Seasons, Effervescence in New Orleans) and artist Ellen Macomber (known for the wild, whimsical murals at Justine restaurant in New Orleans, and her caftans and carnival headgear). Macomber playfully embellished the interior with 3-D murals incorporating velvet birds and a painting of Elvis in a white suit, bedazzled with Swarovski crystals and three feet of fringe, with birds perched atop his head and arms. In the courtyard, the artist drolly bedazzled the interior of a 1955 pickup truck, painted it with her trademark evil eyes and transformed it into an Instagrammable cocktail bar with fold-out ledges and comic pink figurines. “In South Louisiana, we love to be with friends, have crawfish boils, eat out and drink good wine,” says Stuart. “With COVID shutting down restaurants, we were itching to get back with friends and get together. We needed some mercy in our lives so we created Mercy Kitchen coming out of the pandemic. We want you to feel like you’re in someone’s living room, eating creative food, having great wine and a great time.” “We purchased a special Japanese snowball machine so we’ve got boozy snowballs,” says Colleen Ottinger, Stuart’s wife. “There’s nothing like it in Lafayette.” Patrons linger near the vintage truck beneath the cypress trees and enjoy such shareables as charcuterie and whipped cheese boards paired with cauliflower bread, truffle fries, Gulf shrimp lettuce wraps and BBQ shrimp, chased by craft cocktails like the "Lil’ Jean Lafitte," and the "Whiskey Wabbit," a tangy, energizing concoction that’s a favorite among Mercy’s imbibers. ■
56
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
R EC I P E
Whiskey Wabbit Combine 1.5 ounces rye whiskey, .75 ounce sherry, .5 ounce ginger and .75 ounce carrot juice with ice and stir to chill. Strain into a cocktail or a coupe glass, garnish with fresh dill and serve.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
57
D ÎNE R DE HO R S
Answering a Call Area 337 in Lake Charles celebrates vibrant Latin flavors by Eric Cormier photos by Joseph Vidrine
58
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
(above) Fried pork belly accompanied by authentic Latin side dishes like rice and beans and fried plantains is featured on the menu at Area 337. (right) A traditional Cuban mojito. (facing page) A taste of the Latin and Caribbean world via fish, beef and vegetables.
Latin foodways are on full display at Area 337 (facebook.com/area337), one of Lake Charles' newest restaurants. Dominican Republic-born restaurant owner Gus Garden celebrates Puerto Rico, Columbia, Honduras, Venezuela and his homeland with plates full of flavor, color, meat and love. Owning a restaurant is more than just a desire for Garden. This 33-year-old decided to find his way back to happiness by opening the restaurant. Garden's work life began when he was a teenager with stops in Miami, Puerto Rico, Virginia and many Central and South American countries. He realized cooking and serving the public was a calling. That realization hit him after almost five years of working in the petrochemical industry. “Part of me was empty. I want to make people happy and meet their expectations,” he said. So one day, Garden decided to quit his job with steady income. He sold lots of personal items and even cut his Netflix subscription to save money. Eventually, Garden found a weathered building in Lake City's mid city area which had a restaurant history that included fried chicken and soul food, along with a few other interesting ventures over 40 years.
FOR MORE IMAGES OF AREA 337 VISIT ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
59
Now, with vibrant colors, Latin-styled art, salsa music, a beautiful bar with all the elixirs needed for domestic and Caribbean favorites, Area 337 is — simply put — hot and saucy. The menu will entice. Kan Kan pork chops, a Puerto Ricaninspired dish, has caught many diners' attention as well it should. When the large plate of fried pork loin chop (strap of belly and the skin still attached) comes to the table with a serving of mofongo and fried plantains, a person will realize pork is appreciated on the islands. Garden's staff also prepares a Venezuelan staple dish called Pabellon Criollo which is shredded beef served with rice and black beans and fried plantains. This dish finds its way to many customers after they see it in other patrons' tables. The churrasco (grilled skirt steak) is one of the restaurant's favorite plates. So much so that Garden has steadily ordered more skirt steak each week since the eatery opened earlier this year. A staple base in the soups, stews and sauces prepared at Area 337 is sofrito (a combination of cilantro, garlic and fresh tomatoes). The natural ingredients in this sauce bolster the flavor of the final dishes. Garden, his wife Yuliana, and his mother Rhina Rosado all lead the efforts of the restaurant staff. Their intentions are to make sure the flavors of their Latin heritage are shared on the plate and in the service provided. “You will feel like you're eating in the Caribbean,” said Garden. “A lot of our work is influenced by the food my grandmother used to cook in the Dominican Republic.”. ■
60
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
(left) Flan is one of the Latin world's favorite desserts. The mildly sweet and creamy custard creation at Area 337 is flavored with vanilla. (top, right) Area 337 owner Gus Garden walked away from an industrial career to follow his heart and dream to open a restaurant to provide Southwest Louisiana residents a culinary introduction to the Latin and Caribbean world. His restaurant features dishes from Columbia, Honduras, Puerto Rico and Venezuela. Gustav's restaurant has survived a pandemic and storms. (bottom) Garden's opened Area 337 with the intention of crafting a restaurant atmosphere where patrons and staff feel like family members.
Acadiana food lovers will find Area 337 menu items different in name, but the flavors will be familiar and fulfilling.
T RY T H I S !
Savory Sampling
1
Bandeja Paisa A huge meatdominated Columbian dish with rice, red beans, fried pork belly, fried steak, fried egg, avocado, chorizo, and ripe plantain.
2
Pargo Frito A Dominicanstyled whole fried red snapper.
3
Pollo con taijada This Honduran fried chicken has become a Lake Area favorite.
4
Carne Frita Encebollada Fans of pork cracklins will relish this plate of fried pork chunks.
5
Arroz Y Frijoles A Latin kitchen is only as good as beans and rice exiting the kitchen. Area 337's version is ethereal.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
61
DE L A C U IS INE
Cold Front Gumbo season has arrived by Marcelle Bienvenu photo & styling by Eugenia Uhl
I serve potato salad or sometimes a baked sweet potato with the gumbo. Don’t forget hot, crusty French bread.
MAIN COURSE
D E S S E RT
My Chicken and Sausage Gumbo
Pecan Bourbon Pound Cake
You can save time by using jarred roux. I’m not offended by that.
If you don’t have pecans, walnuts work quite well.
MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS
MAKES 12 TO 14 SERVINGS
1 fryer chicken, about 3 to 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces
1 pound butter
Creole or Cajun seasoning mix
9 eggs, separated
½ cup dry white wine, vermouth or dry sherry 3 tablespoons plus 1 cup vegetable oil 2 cups finely chopped onions 2 cups finely chopped green bell peppers 1 cup finely chopped celery 2 ½ to 3 quarts chicken stock (as needed) There are those who eat gumbo year round. I’m not one of them. I wait for that first cold front to blow in from the west and then scurry to the supermarket or my local grocery store for the fixings for a chicken and sausage gumbo. Usually, the stores are busy with people like me, plopping the ingredients — flour, oil, rice, chicken and smoked sausage — into their carts. My husband likes to say that when the cold winds blow, there is not a chicken or links of smoked sausage or andouille to be had south of I-10. I am a purist when it comes to gumbo. No seafood in a chicken and sausage gumbo and not any kind of meat in a seafood gumbo — only shrimp, crab and oysters. (However, on occasion, I do like a wild duck gumbo paired with andouille, and oysters and some of their liquor added at the end of the cooking time, and cooked just long enough to allow the edges of the oysters to curl. This was a favorite of my father, an avid sportsman.) For a hors d’oeuvre, this is one my mother often served. Pick up about two pounds of your favorite hog’s head cheese. (My choice is from Legnon’s in New Iberia.) Put it in a saucepan and slowly melt over simmering heat. Have two empty egg cartons at the ready. Put about two tablespoons of the mixture into each cup in the carton and transfer to the refrigerator and allow it to set up into its gelatin form. When ready to serve, gently pop out the hog’s head cheese and serve on crackers or toasted French bread, dabbing a little Creole or Dijon mustard on each. ■
1 ½ pounds andouille or other smoked sausage, cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices. 1 cup chopped green onions ½ cup chopped parsley PREHEAT oven to 375 F. PUT chicken pieces in a large bowl and season with Cajun or Creole seasoning mix. Add 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and toss to coat chicken evenly. Arrange in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes. Remove pan from the oven and add wine. Return to oven and bake for about 10 minutes or until lightly browned. The chicken will be partially cooked. PICK the meat off the bones and chop into chunks. Set aside. PLACE sausage on a rimmed sheet pan and bake for 10 minutes. Drain off any excess fat and set aside. COMBINE 1 cup oil and flour in a large cast-iron pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Stirring slowly and constantly, make a dark brown roux. ADD onions, bell peppers and
celery and cook, stirring, often, until vegetables are lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Add chicken stock and sausage and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. Add chicken and simmer for 30 more minutes.
3 cups sugar 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 teaspoons pure almond extract 1 teaspoon butter flavoring ¼ cup bourbon 2 cups chopped pecans PREHEAT oven to 325 F. Grease a tube pan or two (5-by 9-inch) loaf pans. Cut wax paper to fit the bottom of the pans and lightly grease wax paper. IN A LARGE MIXING BOWL,
cream butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat well. Mix in flour, vanilla, almond and butter flavorings and bourbon. Beat egg whites in a separate bowl until stiff. Fold into batter. Stir in one cup of pecans. SPRINKLE bottom of pan (or pans) with ½ cup of the pecans. Add batter to the pan (or pans) and sprinkle the top with remaining ½ cup of pecans. BAKE until brown and a cake tester comes out clean, 1 ½ to 2 hours. To prevent the top of the cake from cracking, cover with foil the last 30 minutes of baking.
TIP: Garnish with sweet whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
SKIM off excess oil and adjust seasoning. Add the green onions and parsley and serve over rice.
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
63
EN FRA N Ç A I S, S’I L VO U S P L A Î T
Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler L’histoire d’une expression problématique par David Cheramie
J’avoue que chaque fois que je vois ou que j’entends « Laissez les bons temps rouler », je grince un peu des dents et frotte mes oreilles. C’est souvent prononcé avec un accent épouvantable et quant à son orthographe, c’est parfois d’une créativité extraordinaire. Malgré son omniprésence dans la promotion touristique de l’état, vous aurez tort de supposer qu'il s'agit d'une authentique expression en français louisianais. En dépit de ce qu’on peut croire, c’est plutôt une traduction de « Let the Good Times Roll » qui nous a donné ce qui est devenu notre devise officieuse. Je ne sais pas quand cela a été traduit pour la première fois, mais c'était probablement après la chanson de Louis Jordan du même nom en 1946. Auparavant en 1924, Tom Delaney avait aussi écrit une chanson intitulée « Let the Good Times Roll », mais elles ne sont pas pareilles. Celle-ci n’a pas eu beaucoup de succès avant 1956 quand Shirley and Lee ont enregistré la version la plus connue. Certaines sources placent la première apparition de la traduction française au Festival d’Écrevisse du Pont Breaux de 1962 où on peut lire, dans une « Déclaration d’Indépendance » satirique : « En témoignage de ceci, nous, les patriotes soussignés, promettons notre fortune et nos meilleurs esprits vivifiants et proclamons ‘Laissez les Bonnes Temps Rouler’ ». Dès le début, on peut voir qu’on n’était pas soucieux de l’orthographe française. C’est avec les années d'après-guerre prospères et le retour triomphant des soldats louisianais francophones que l’expression a pris tout son envol. Il y a eu l’enregistrement en 1949 de « Bon Ton Roula/Bon Ton Roulet » par Clarence Garlow, originaire de Welsh en Louisiane, dans le style de jump blues que Jordan affectionnait, qui est probablement la genèse de sa popularisation en français. Une autre indication qu'il s'agissait à l'origine d'un terme anglais traduit en français peut être entendue dans une récente entrevue avec Amanda Lafleur, experte en français louisianais, sur
64
ACADIANA PROFILE
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021
du Zarico. Je serais surpris si ce n'était pas le podcast « The Weekly Linguist ». Là, elle l'origine de l’usage généralisé de l'expression mentionne que Clifton Chenier disait paren français. Depuis, on utilise l’expression fois « Quittez les bons temps rouler », ce qui partout, à tort et à travers, avec des variantes serait une tournure plus locale de la phrase. d'orthographe phonétique incorrectes qu'on Par exemple, il est plus courant d'entendre « trouve en ligne. Il serait temps qu’on décide Quitte-moi te dire quelque chose » au lieu de « une fois pour toutes que c’est « Laisse-moi te dire quelque chose Laissez les bons temps rouler ». En plus, Clifton et Clarence » si on doit insister à l’utiliser. se connaissaient bien, ayant Cela dit, je pense qu'il capte tourné ensemble au début des néanmoins l'essence de notre années 50, se présentant comme fameuse « Joie de vivre », qui les « Deux Français Fous ». Si FOR AN ENGLISH est indéniablement d’origine quelqu’un a su faire rouler les TRANSLATION VISIT française. ■ bons temps, c’était bien le Roi ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
ACADIANAPROFILE.COM
3
