TASTING INTOWN: Café Alsace Restaurant Review

By Art Huckabee

is month we decided to visit Decatur. It probably wasn’t wise to make the trek during rush hour as every Atlantan who owns a car was on Clairmont Road. We nally made it, only to circle the square looking for a parking spot, like an airliner in a holding pattern over Harts eld Jackson.

In a di erent life, I might have chosen to live in Decatur; there seems to be something within walking distance for everyone, be it an ice cream shop, a bar with live music or a café… perhaps a quaint Alsatian café at that.

Café Alsace occupies a small storefront just o the courthouse square. Its awning advertises that it’s been there since 1997, no easy feat in the restaurant business. When you walk in, you immediately feel like you’ve been transported to France.

e owner greets you in French ever poised to continue the conversation in that language if you are so inclined or capable. Unfortunately my French ends shortly a er “Bonjour,” “Merci,” “Au Revoir” and the song, Frère Jacques.

e space is lled with white table-clothed tables, lots of bric-abrac, artwork and things posing as artwork. You get the sense that a lot of the diners here are regulars; and if you’re not, the owner makes you feel just as welcome.

e food is distinctly French with German in uences. e Alsace region of France lies on the west bank of the Rhine River and is within yodeling distance of both Germany and Switzerland.

We began our Alsatian adventure with wine and appetizers. ere were several good Gewürztraminer’s and Riesling’s for which the Alsace region is known. ere were also a few nice reds including a Chateau Bouscasse, a Bordeaux-style blend. e wine list gives a brief avor pro le of most wines making it easier to choose a glass that will suit one’s taste.

We chose the Brie a la Rhubarbe et Mirabelle, the Tarte Flambe and the French onion soup to start. e baked Brie served with pretzel bread, Rhubarb jam and a Mirabelle plum jam provided the perfect savory, sweet, salty bite.

e Tarte Flambe was a large atbread smothered in Crème Fraiche, bacon, onions and Emmentaler cheese. It was one of the favorite dishes of the evening and if paired with a green salad, could have easily been a meal for two on its own. e onion soup was avorful and full of caramelized onions but needed a cheesier topping. e chicken stu ed with pecans,

Our entrées were the Bouef Wellington, the Filet de truite, the Poulet farci and the Crêpe du jour. I’m betting that more than one “Hell’s Kitchen” fan has visited to sample the Wellington. is version was quite good with the pastry light and crispy and the beef medium rare… not an easy feat according to Chef Ramsay. e trout dish was classically French with smoked salmon, fennel and apples. It tasted good but was texturally one-note.

Brie and spinach in a g “au jus” had a way of growing on you with each bite even though the chicken was overdone. e Crêpe of the day, a combination of chicken, goat cheese, quinoa and green beans was visually appealing but also overdone. e goat cheese overpowered the dish. e doneness of the birds aside, both dish’s avors were “acquired tastes.”

Each entrée came with excellent potatoes gratin and a large side salad. e g and honey dressing was so good that we bought some to take home.

While the service was excellent, the pace of service was more suited for an evening when one didn’t have to go to work the next day.

Café Alsace made the drive to Decatur worth it. Now, if we can only remember where we parked the car.

Café Alsace is located at 121 East Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur (404) 3735622 or cafealsace.net.

Art Huckabee is one of Yelp’s Elite Reviewers, as well as a pilot, gourmet cook and food lover. Send feedback to tastingintown@atlantaintownpaper.com.