Tasting Intown

By Megan Volpert

The food lives up to the space. 5Church began in Charlotte and opened in Charleston before coming here as well, and they really understand how to do plates that are both Southern in their comfort and cosmopolitan in their construction. Might have something to do with James Beard Awardwinning executive chef RJ Cooper. One dish for which he isn’t responsible is the “60 second” New York strip, featured on the menu in all three cities, from the mind of partner and chef Jamie Lynch. Equal parts delicious food and food for thought, the steak gets a quick sear on one side so the heat soaks up into it and leaves the other side barely cooked. Examining pink from one side instead of in the center results in a whole new mouthfeel and that is worth trying for a change of pace.

On the other hand, there are a couple of plates that are worth ordering over and over again. They’ve got a wasabi crusted ahi tuna on a bed of miso foam and seaweed salad that will make you forget Shout ever existed. Ditto for the jumbo lump crab, which is done as a salad and not as a cake. On the brunch and dinner

A. The rooftop space at 5Church in Midtown

B. Jumbo lump crab cake

C. “60 second” New York Strip

D. The ceiling features the handpainted text of Art of War

E. Peanut butter and jelly pie menus it’s a first course, but on the lunch menu it’s an entree. Personally, I could take a bath in it. This is also the case for the cave aged cheddar agnolotti, piled high with the pop of peas and the crunch of ham, straight out of autumn’s fantasy food land and hopefully will stay on the menu year-round. The sides are served family style and I don’t know why you’re bringing your kids to Midtown, but they will happily enjoy the mac ’n’ cheese while you bask in the afterglow of that creamy agnolotti filling.

For dessert, get the peanut butter and jelly, which is a delicious experiment in layers. Then again, the duck-fat beignets are a serious challenger and the oven roasted pineapple is improving. The coffee is from a roaster near the original Charlotte location, and as much as 5Church has brought its familiar touches from home, it fits into Atlanta already. The bar program is maybe a little on the fizzy and fruity side of things for me, but hey, what’s Midtown without a wild berry mojito and a rosemary gin fizz? There are a dozen kinds of bubbly, too, so if you miss Shout more often than you like to admit, go toast to 5Church’s success.

5Church is at 1197 Peachtree St. For more information: 5churchatlanta.com.

Taste of Atlanta

Food festival returns to Midtown Oct. 21-23

More than 90 restaurants are taking part in this year’s Taste of Atlanta, which returns to Technology Square in Midtown Oct. 21-23.

The event gives festivalgoers the chance to sample bites and drinks from a wide range of Atlanta eateries. Some of the participating restaurants include Barcelona, Bone Lick BBQ, Hampton + Hudson, il Giallo, The Optimist, Smoke Ring, STK Atlanta, Taqueria del Sol, Venkman’s and Wrecking Bar Brewpub.

You can also watch Atlanta’s top bartenders compete for the title of Taste of Atlanta’s Best Bartender at the Barcraft Competition, pick up grilling tips at the Big Green Egg Grilling Stage, learn tips and technique at The Chef’s Table and CNN’s Holly Firfer will host The Kitchen Workshop where you can get hands-on instruction in the culinary arts. General admission tickets are on sale now for $25 and VIP tickets are $75. There are also various packages for two and three-day attendance. Tickets are on sale at tasteofatlanta.com.