Have a damp, shady yard? Moss could be
By K aren Hugg
The Washington Post
WHILE MOSS, with its brilliant color and plush texture, seems to fit naturally into the dreamy landscapes of fantasy novels, the ancient plant can also function as a cost-effective, low-maintenance alternative to an attention-demanding lawn.
“Moss lawns are a good alternative to turf for environmentally minded people or those who want a low-maintenance ground cover that can take some foot traffic,”
Darren Strenge, garden manager at the Bloedel Reserve outside Seattle, said by email. “Established moss lawns … don’t need to be mowed or fertilized and can survive without water when you go on vacation.”
That’s because mosses, or bryophytes, aren’t like typical plants. They don’t have true roots or a vascular system for moving food and water. They photosynthesize through their tissue, and they mostly reproduce through spores. They only need low light and regular rain and/or high humidity to thrive.
And once they’re established, mosses are forgiving: They can completely dry out, then return to their lush forms after being watered. They can also survive on rocks, concrete walls and tree bark.
If you’re considering trading your lawn for moss ground cover, you must first assess your space to see if the conditions are right.
“Notice the ratio of light to dark,” Christine Cook of Mossaics Landscape Design said in an email. “How do shadows move across the area? Most mosses prefer dappled light or darkness.”
Wooded passages or shadowed sitting areas are ideal. Side yards sandwiched between tall homes often provide the low light and moist air that mosses need. New moss can lift away from the ground easily, so
it’s best to avoid high activity areas where children or pets play.
Here are a few things to consider when making the transition.
Remove existing lawn
If moss is creeping into an already established lawn, the simplest method is to let the moss expand at its own pace. But if you want to expedite the process, remove the grass.
You can rent a sod cutter to remove the top inch or two of the lawn, but that could allow weeds to return.
A better option is to dig out the grass to the root by hand with a digging fork or shovel to ensure neither the grass
nor the weeds will pop back up.
Assess the soil
After removing the lawn, do a soil test. Most often, moss grows best in acidic soil, though Strenge said he’s also seen it thrive in dryer, alkaline soil.
It also helps to have nutrient-rich soil, which encourages moss to spread more quickly. “Moss generally seems to grow slowly or not at all on soils with very low organic matter,” Strenge said. “If anyone is trying to grow moss on light-colored soils or subsoils (usually light in color due to low organic matter), I recommend adding a very well-rotted
compost to the soil and mixing it in well.”
Where to source your moss
There are two ways to add moss to the garden: buying it from a local nursery or online retailer, or transplanting it from another part of your yard.
Buying moss is more expensive but will yield quicker results. If you go this route, ask where the moss was grown.
You don’t want to import exotic pests that may attack healthy plants, or invasive weeds that spread aggressively.
Ideally, the retailer either carefully grows their own moss or buys it from a reputable local or regional grower.
If you’re not sure what kinds of moss to buy, you can start with species commonly found in your local woodlands.
This zen garden features circular pathways, green moss and strategically placed stones. (PHOTO
Reich | In the Garden
AS I WAS COMING DOWN A HILL ON A recent hike in the woods, I came upon an open area where the path was lined with clumps of shrubs whose leaves shimmered in the early fall sunshine. The leaves — green on their topsides and hoary underneath — came alive as breezes made them first show one side, then the other.
The plants’ beauty was further highlighted by their abundant clusters of pea-size, silver-flecked red berries lined up along the stems. I know this plant and, as I always do this time of year, popped some of the berries into my mouth. The timing was right; they were delicious.
Many people hate this plant, which I’m sure a lot of readers recognized from my description as autumn olive (Elaeagnus umbellata). What’s to hate? The plant is considered invasive (and banned) in many states in the Northeast and Midwest U.S. “It threatens native ecosystems by out-competing and displacing native plant species, creating dense shade and interfering with natural plant succession and nutrient cycling.”
But there is a lot to love about this plant, in ad-
dition to its beauty. In spring, about the middle of May around here, the plant perfumes the air with a deliciously sweet fragrance. And poor soil is no problem. An actinobacteria (Frankia) at its roots takes nitrogen from the air and converts it into a form that plants can use.
That ability to make its own fertilizer is just one reason this plant was loved before it was hated. Autumn olive was introduced into the U.S. and the U.K. about 200 years ago for their beauty and to provide shelter and food for birds, deer, bees, raccoons, and other wildlife. The plant isn’t stingy with its garnered fertility, and has been planted to, for instance, reclaim soils of mine tailings.
But let’s get back to eating the berries. The berries are high in lycopene and other health goodies. As they ripen, the berries go from being astringent and tart to sweet and flavorful. That window of good flavor is fleeting, lasting only a couple of weeks. The soft seeds are also edible.
So, if you come upon some wild autumn olives, eat the berries, seeds and all, and help limit the plants’ spread.
Brendan Fogarty Owner
Autumn olive is a non-native invasive plant, but that’s no reason not to enjoy the tasty and healthful berries of wild ones, seeds and all. (LEE REICH PHOTO)
STOCKBRIDGE
Upcoming programs at Berkshire Botanical Garden
Berkshire Botanical Garden presents the following upcoming programs: Tuesdays, Oct. 1 through 22, 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. “Ornamental Woody Plants.”
Taught by Jenna O’Brien, this four-session course will focus on the bones of the garden with a survey of ornamental woody plants for residential landscape design. It will cover ornamental shrubs, small flowering trees, shade trees, and broadleaf and needle evergreens. Students will become familiar with the many garden-worthy woody plants that thrive in Zone 5. The course covers plant identification, selection, siting, cultivation, and possible design uses. Students should dress for outdoor field study.
All students participating in this class as part of the Horticulture Certificate Program are required to complete a final project. Cost $215 members, $240 nonmembers; Saturday, Oct. 5, and Sunday, Oct. 6, “Make a Wander Book: Floral Dyes on Paper,” 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Capture the color and contour of BBG’s gardens in autumn in our hands-on workshop.
In this two-day intensive program, brew dyes with plants harvested from the BBG gardens and learn three different ways to capture color on paper.
On the second day, create a “wander book,” a small, folded book form sewn with your own dyed threads. Expect to immerse in the world of natural dyes and depart with a set of materials to inspire your creative practice. Along with the harvesting and preparation of dyes, participants will be offered a daily centering meditation and short writing prompts. A brief materials list will be provided upon registration. Participants should bring an apron and their lunch. Cost $170 members, $190 nonmembers; Saturdays, Oct. 5 through 26, 9:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. “Rendering.”
This four-week course, will offer students the opportunity to pursue the process of creating a realistic or lifelike representation of an object or a scene. It’s all about how you use your tools — be it charcoal, paint, or a digital stylus — to illustrate light and shadow, texture, and color in your artwork. This course is the next step for gardening designers following drafting. Structured as a studio class, students will learn the softer side of drawing for design using the B range pencils, and practice illustrative renderings such as sections, elevations and plan obliques. Taught by Tom Smith of Springfield Technical Community College. Cost is $215 members, $240 nonmembers. To register or for more information, visit www. berkshirebotanical.org. Berkshire Botanical Garden is located at 5 West Stockbridge Road.
WESTFIELD
Fall bulb-planting workshop
The Stanley Park Greenhouse & Horticultural staff will lead a workshop on fall bulb planting and how to prep your home gardens for the winter, on Tuesday, Oct. 15, from 10-11 a.m. If time allows, we will take a walk to other garden(s). The workshops will meet at the fountain in the Rose Garden. Please use Gates 2 or 3 for parking and easy access to the Rose Garden. For further information on the garden workshop, go to www.stanley park.org or call the park office at 413-5689312.
WILBRAHAM
Wilbraham Garden Club meeting
The first meeting of the Wilbraham Garden Club for the year 2024-2025 will be held on Thursday, Oct. 3, at noon at the St. Cecilia’s Parish Center on Main St. A luncheon will be served and there is no guest fee for this meeting, so please bring a prospective new member. The speaker for the day will
be Jacqueline Clark, who will speak on “Putting the Garden to Sleep.” Clark is the owner of Garden Designs in Ludlow. Learn how to prepare gardens for the upcoming winter season, including what plants to cut back; how to do the mulching, soil amending, what containers, to use, tool tips and more.
Clark will also teach techniques for saving seeds, fall plant divisions and bulb planting.
Pollinator plant sale
The Wilbraham Friends of the Library (WFOL) is holding a pollinator plant sale on Saturday, Oct. 5, from 9 a.m. to noon at the Wilbraham Public Library, 25 Crane Park. Cash or checks only. There will be a variety of pollinator friendly biennials, perennials, shrubs and vines available for sale at the library. Early October is an excellent time
to plant, the ground is warm enough to support root growth and there is plenty of time for plants to get established before winter sets in. Proceeds from the sale will benefit both the Wilbraham Public Library and Wistariahurst Museum in Holyoke. For more information, contact the Friends at friends@ wilbrahamlibrary.org.
Send items for Garden Notes to pmastriano@repub.com two weeks prior to publication.
SEASONAL AWNINGS
Noncontroversial is another red berry of the season, lingonberries (Vaccinium vitis-idaea). Although native throughout the northern hemisphere, these berries are especially loved in Scandinavia where, each year, thousands and thousands of tons of lingonberries are harvested from the wild, destined for sauce, juice, jam, wine, and baked goods. A fair number of these berries are, of course, just popped into appreciative mouths.
I grow lingonberry for its good looks and for its good flavor, which got it a chapter in my book “Landscaping with Fruit.” Let’s start in spring, when cute, little urn-shaped blossoms dangle singly or in clusters near the ends of the thin, semiwoody stems rising less than a foot high.
These urns hang open end down and are white, blushed with pink. They’re best appreciated when plants are grown where they can be looked at frequently and up-close.
If you miss the spring floral show, you get another
chance because lingonberries blossom twice each season. This second show unfolds in mid- to late summer on young stems Lingonberry sports evergreen leaves, the size of mouse ears and having the same green gloss as those of holly. Like holly, they retain their lush, green color right through winter. New shoots sprout above the spreading roots and stolons, so plants eventually make an attractive and edible groundcover.
The fruits that follow the flower shows couple just enough sweetness with a rich, unique aroma so they are, if picked dead ripe, delicious plucked right off the plants into your mouth or mixed with, say, your morning cereal.
They are pea-sized and somewhat of a show in themselves. The bright red berries hang on the plants for a long time, well into winter, making a perfect Christmas decoration.
If you grow lingonberry, give it the same soil conditions as its relatives, blueberries, mountain laurels, and rhododendrons. That is, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter, very acidic, and not too fertile.
In the eastern United States, those include fern moss, haircap moss, pin cushion moss, broom moss, tree apron moss and tree moss, according to Robert Klips, an associate professor emeritus at Ohio State University and the author of “Common Mosses, Liverworts and Lichens of Ohio.” He said by email that tree moss (Climacium americanum), which grows upright with tiny branched stems similar to a tree’s structure, “does very well in shady residential yards, and is often promoted as a substitute for lawn grass.”
Another option is to buy more of what’s already
growing in your yard, because it’s probably native to your climate, giving it a better chance of thriving. If you’re not sure what type of moss you have, use your phone to zoom in for a close photo, or use a magnifying glass to check its structure.
“Mosses have a reputation for being difficult to identify, but that’s mainly because they are small,” Klips said. “With the help of a hand lens many mosses can be recognized using the same types of featuresbranching pattern and leaf shape — that are used to tell trees apart.” If you’re still unsure, take a sample to a local nursery, a university’s horticultural extension, or a master gardener program for identification.
Vicky B.
Transplanting moss
Transplanting moss, or moving patches from your land, takes longer, but it’s free. Note to never take moss from the wild. It plays a valuable role in natural ecosystems by soaking up rainfall and preventing erosion, filtering air pollutants and maintaining biodiverse conditions. If you have a large section of moss in your yard, you can try “fragmentation,” an asexual reproduction method where you break it apart to form new patches. “The process involves collecting suitable mosses and letting them dry,” Strenge said. “Then I rip apart the dried moss into smaller bits and spread those bits over the future moss lawn. Then water them well with a sprinkler and gently walk on them to press them into the soil.”
To encourage your moss fragments to fill in bare spaces, try applying a moss slurry. Spread this butter-
[Mosses] don’t have true roots or a vascular system for moving food and water. They photosynthesize through their tissue, and they mostly reproduce through spores. They only need low light and regular rain and/or high humidity to thrive.
milk-enriched concoction over the soil and lightly water or mist the area until rains can keep the soil consistently moist. If you don’t see moss soon, don’t worry; it can take up to six weeks to appear. During the first summer, as the weather warms, you’ll want to ensure the entire area stays moist, but don’t let standing water accumulate. Also, try not to disturb the moss with a rake or foot traffic.
Maintenance
Once the moss is established, it’s fairly low-maintenance. “Since moss can dry out 100% without dying,” Strenge said, “regular watering is less crucial. However, dry moss won’t grow, so providing regular water while establishing a moss lawn will speed up
the process.” The main thing you need to do is keep the moss free of weeds and debris so it can receive rain, light and air.
And be patient. Strenge said that, depending on the propagation method, it can take years to establish moss ground cover. But once those soft tufts start to take over, you’ll feel satisfied you went with what Mother Nature intended. “The phrase ‘good things come to those who wait’ applies to moss gardening,” Strenge said.
Karen Hugg is a certified ornamental horticulturalist and the author of “Leaf Your Troubles Behind: How to Destress and Grow Happiness Through Plants.” Connect with her on Threads, @karenhugg.
Home Finder
An old stone lantern placed in a moss-covered Japanese garden. (ADOBE STOCK IMAGES)
Home Finder
This stunningly renovated condo offers the perfect blend of style and convenience. Step inside to discover sleek bamboo floors that flow seamlessly throughout the space, setting the stage for an inviting, modern atmosphere. The one-and-a-half bathrooms are tastefully updated. The spacious eat-in kitchen features granite countertops, stainless steel appliances, chic lighting, and a breakfast bar perfect for casual meals or entertaining. Enjoy the convenience of in-unit laundry and the comfort of efficient gas, forced-air heating, enhanced by mini-split systems that provide customized heating and cooling throughout the year. The main bedroom is a retreat of its own, boasting a generous walk-in closet. Additional perks include a private basement storage area and an attached garage for added security, plus an extra off-street parking space for guests or a second vehicle. With the homeowners’ association handling landscaping and snow removal, you can focus on enjoying your home’s elegant finishes and thoughtful amenities. $214,900
Terry and kim kovel | Antiques & Collecting
Is it a teapot or a work of art?
ARTISTS OF ALL LEVELS, critics and admirers alike have long wondered: What is art? Collectors of ceramics face a slightly more specific question: What is art pottery? To a collector, the term “art pottery” usually refers to a kind of pottery made in the U.S. from about 1870 to 1930. This kind of pottery usually consists of hand-thrown, hand-decorated vessels with innovative glazes.
The best-known pieces are often items like vases or jardinieres; in other words, decorative pieces. That is often the defining quality of art: It is meant to be decorative rather than functional. But many artists, especially the studio potters of the mid-20th century onward, believe the two options aren’t mutually exclusive.
Take this teapot by contemporary ceramicist Paul Heroux, which sold at Thomaston Place Auction Galleries for $250. It’s an interesting-looking teapot with its organic, slightly distorted shapes and striking yellow and brown glaze, but it is exactly that: a teapot, not a sculpture of a teapot.
A 2010 profile by a student at Bates College in Lewiston, Maine, where Heroux taught at the time, quotes him as saying he wants his work to be both decorative and useful; that he “would love it” if his ceramics were used as tableware. In this case, the question “Is it a teapot or a work of art?” could be answered with “Yes.”
Q. I have an antique curio cabinet, Windsor chairs I was told are from the 1800s, a few pieces of china and some signed photos of Mae West, Andy Williams and a few others. Also, some rock ‘n’ roll programs from shows from the 1950s and 1960s. I would like to know how to go about finding a credible antique dealer or appraiser who would come to my home and give information on these items and their value. I do not know what questions to ask or how to make sure they are qualified, creditable, if they should be licensed, etc. Can you help me in this matter?
A. There are three major professional associations for appraisers: The American Society of Appraisers (ASA), the Appraisers Association of
Would you put a teapot like this one on a display shelf or on the table? Many modern studio ceramics could go either way. (THOMASTON PLACE AUCTION GALLERIES)
America (AAA) and the International Society of Appraisers (ISA). They can help you find appraisers in your area. Before you hire an appraiser, ask about their experience, training, background and whether they belong to any appraisal associations. There is no national accreditation for antiques appraisers, but there are many certification programs. The Asheford Institute of Antiques is especially well respected.
Tell a prospective appraiser how many antiques you want appraised and if you want a written or oral appraiser and ask what rates they charge.
Appraisals are expensive. Legitimate appraisers charge hourly rates, which can include time spent on research and travel. Beware of antiques dealers who offer free appraisals or who charge based on the value of your items.
They are often trying to buy antiques and the lowest possible price and will undervalue yours. Often, the best way to evaluate a prospective appraiser is to ask for (and check) references and to look up reviews.
Q. I need identification and approximate pricing on a small silver nutmeg grinder shaped like a Classical urn.
A. Nutmeg was used in Europe since the Middle Ages, when it was
Terry Kovel and Kim Kovel answer readers’ questions sent to the column. Send a letter with one question describing the size, material (glass, pottery) and what you know about the item. Include only two pictures, the object and a closeup of any marks or damage. Be sure your name and return address are included. By sending a question, you give full permission for use in any Kovel product. Names, addresses or email addresses will not be published. We do not guarantee the return of photographs, but if a stamped envelope is included, we will try. Questions that are answered will appear in Kovels Publications. Write to Kovels, The Republican, King Features Syndicate, 628 Virginia Dr., Orlando, FL 32803 or email us at collectorsgallery@kovels.com.
CURRENT PRICES
Current prices are recorded from antiques shows, flea markets, sales and auctions throughout the United States. Prices vary in different locations because of local economic conditions.
believed to have medicinal properties. By the 17th century, it was used as a flavoring. This is when nutmeg graters or grinders first became popular.
The silver nutmeg graters that are collected today are usually from the late 18th to 19th centuries. They were a popular accessory, made by many silversmiths in various decorative shapes. Depending on their condition, maker, age and rarity of the shape, they can sell anywhere from about $400 to over $1,000. Check yours for the maker’s hallmarks. You can look up silver hallmarks on sites like Kovels.com or the Online Encyclopedia of Silver Marks at www.925-1000.com Books on antique silver or Victorian silver pieces may help you identify your nutmeg grinder.
Look for “Silver Novelties in the Gilded Age, 1870-1810” by Deborah Crosby (Schiffer, 2001), “Antique Silver by Ian Pickford” (Antique Collector’s Club, 2007) or “Collecting Small Silverware” by Stephen Helliwell (Phaidon/Christie’s, 1998). There is a website for collectors of nutmeg graters, nutmeggraters. com, that may have additional resources.
TIP: Always test an art pottery vase before you put it on a table. Fill it with water for 24 hours and check for seepage.
Railroad, lantern, New York, New Haven & Hartford RR, iron, single lens, top handle, signed, Peter Gray, Boston, late 1800s, 13 1/2 inches, $75.
Toy, playset, Mystery Space Ship, moon base, figures, cars, instructions, gyro-powered, box, Marx, $155.
Pottery-midcentury, bowl, blue-green glaze, incised crossing lines, rounded square opening, round foot, signed, Vivika & Otto Heino, 4 x 5 1/2 inches, $200.
Toy, elephant, Jumbo, painted, short trunk, saddle, string tail, on rolling platform, stenciled, Jumbo Peanut Butter, 13 x 16 inches, $215.
Fenton, coin dot, decanter, stopper, cranberry opalescent, enamel flowers, ruffled rim, clear handle, gilt overlay, 8 inches, $315.
Garden, urn, cast iron, painted white, flared lip, ribbed pedestal stem, scalloped collar, flared base, square plinth, molded wreaths, c. 1870, 42 x 20 1/2 inches, $405.
Picture, watercolor, peacock, tail extended, leg raised, flowering plant in background, dandelions in foreground, frame, Chinese, c. 1910, 16 x 8 inches, $580.
Cane, walking stick, tiger maple, turned handle, barrel shape grip, octagonal shaft, early 1800s, 38 inches, $750.
Furniture, mirror, dressing, carved frame, applied whalebone, box base, brass whales on lid, pin cushion, sailor made, 19th century, 24 inches, $805.
Coin-operated, dispenser, match box, Krema, 1 cent, red lettering, “Matches,” printed front panel, embossed griffin base, cast iron, early 1900s, 13 1/2 x 5 x 6 inches, $1,375.
Average rate on a 30-year mortgage slips to 6.08%
Rate now at lowest level in two years
By A lex Veiga Associated Press
The average rate on a 30-year
Deeds
AGAWAM
75 Plantation Trust, trustee of, and Mark R. Draymore, trustee, to Wilbraham Builders Inc., 75 Plantation Drive, $175,000.
Craig V. Pineo to FF Quality Realty LLC, South Park Terrace, Lot 35, $220,000.
David Johnson and Nicholas Johnson to Michael S. Murphy and Kelly L. Wachta, 12 Depalma St., $330,000.
Eric Luccardi and Victoria Luccardi to Jacquelyn Crosler, 40 Tower Terrace, $330,000.
Howard L. Atkinson, trustee, Patricia Atkinson, trustee, and Atkinson Family Trust, trustee of, to Ki Nam Peter Kim and Ae Kyong Kim, 319 Regency Park Drive, Unit 319, $195,000.
Kathleen F. Potter and Kathleen Potter to Carol A. Popovich, 181 Brookfield Lane, Unit 181, $270,000.
Ronald J. Palaia and Linda Arcouette to Nataliya Tumasyan and Christopher J. O’Neil, 59 Dogwood Lane, $285,000.
Victoria A. Houle to Mesias Loja Castro, 1165 River Road, $310,000.
William Rivera to Rosa Garcia Diaz, 17 Rowley St., $325,000.
AMHERST
Lilian Ming-Te Hsu, trustee, and Lilian Ming-Te Hsu Living Trust to Ingrid Babb Bracey, Campbell Court, $3,500.
Eddie Haskell LLC, to MF Bloom LLC, 491 Pine St., $600,000.
Alan Eric Travis and Vivien Addison to Alan Eric Travis, Vivien Addison, Ariel Addison Travis and Ebru Yucesar, 22 Wildflower Drive, $500,000.
Tetty E. Gorfine to Thomas Crossman, 664 Main St., $15,000.
Matthew Given to Brendan Boucher and Stephanie E. Figary, 198 Alpine Drive, $510,000.
Stuart P. Salomon and Manjula B. Salomon to Liang Wang, 260 Grantwood Drive, $385,000.
mortgage in the U.S. slipped to its lowest level in two years, boosting home shoppers’ purchasing power as they navigate a housing market with prices near all-time highs.
The rate dipped to 6.08% from to 6.09% last week, mortgage buyer
1117 North Pleasant Street LLC, to Qing Wan and Christopher John Youlden, 1117 North Pleasant St., $545,000.
John McColpin, trustee, Cynthia Archer, trustee, and McColpin & Archer Family Trust to John K. McColpin, trustee, Cynthia J. Archer, trustee, John K. McColpin Trust and Cynthia J. Archer Trust, 32 Aubinwood Road, $100.
Eva B. Lohrer, trustee, Michael G. Lohrer, trustee, and Ilse M. Lohrer Trust to Eva B. Lohrer, trustee, and Eva B. Lohrer Trust, Market Hill Road, $15,000.
Madeline Schorsch and Madeline R. Schorsch to Madeline R. Schorsch, trustee, and Madeline R. Schorsch 2024 Trust, 2 Baldwin Lane, $100.
Rocky Hill Road Partners LLC, to 310 Belchertown Road LLC, 310 Belchertown Road, $735,000.
Estela K. Olevsky, trustee, and Estela K. Olevsky Revocable Trust to Sarah Zureick-Brown and David Zureick-Brown, 68 Blue Hills Road, $608,000.
Justin T. Serpone and Angela A. McMahon to Valerie Rushanan, 62 Taylor St., $590,000.
Huizhong Gu and Lei Zhou to Joan Russett, 25 Bedford Court, $235,000.
ASHFIELD
Frank W. Furman III, John J. Furman and Michael J. Furman, trustees of the Helen P. Furman Irrevocable Administrative Trust, to Ashlynn Cedrone and Kyle Ferdinand, West Road, $90,000. Town of Ashfield to Richard P. Pantermehl, Old Stage Road, $25,000.
BELCHERTOWN
Kenney Homes LLC, to Brad Harasimowicz and Courtney Harasimowicz, State Street, $90,000.
James N. Hayward and Hayward Construction to Laliberte Home Builders Inc., Allen Road, $50,000.
William J. Sordillo and Jacquelin R. Sordillo to William J. Sordillo, Blue Meadow Road, $100.
Freddie Mac said Thursday. A year ago, the rate averaged 7.31%.
The last time the average rate was lower was on Sept. 15, 2022, when it was 6.02%.
Borrowing costs on 15-year fixed-
William J. Sordillo and Jacquelin R. Sordillo to Owen Reilly Sordillo, Blue Meadow Road, $100.
Shannon Kay and Aaron Kay to Colman O’Connor, 285 Old Enfield Road, $525,000.
Pamela J. Councilman and Pamela J. Hoag to Jonathan Wiesniak and Robert Jacob Wiesniak, 30 Lamson Ave., $727,000.
Tomasz Karas, Janusz Karas and Anna Karas to David Michael Vinsh and Josselyn Louise Vinsh, 10 Woodhaven Drive, $585,000.
BLANDFORD
Donald A. Brainerd and Mary K. Brainerd to Michael A. Weatherington and Sherani J. Weatherington, 28 North St., $515,000. Kevin M. Hall to John Panaia and Vonda Mayo, Beulah Road, Lot 2, $60,000.
Robert A. Heinimann and Robert A. Heinimann Jr., to William M. Geer, trustee, and MMS Trust, trustee of, Old Chester Road, Lot 3, $160,000.
BUCKLAND
Daniel M. Glick, personal representative of the Estate of George Glick, “aka” George D. Glick, to Brian Kynard, 44 William St., $257,500.
Ellen R. Kaufmann, “fka” Ellen R. Levine, and Marc R. Kaufmann to Eva Joly and Thomas Philip O’Neill IV, 27 Howes Road, $430,000.
CHARLEMONT
N. Douglas Powers and Susan L. Powers, trustees of the N. Douglas Powers 2007 Revocable Trust, and N. Douglas Powers and Susan L. Powers, Trustees of the Susan L. Powers 2007 Revocable Trust to William P. Baronas, Maxwell Road, $56,000.
CHESTER
Chester Hill Farm LLC, to Farrelly Family Farm Trust, trustee of, and Gerard M. Ferrelly, trustee, 590 Skyline Trail, $450,000.
John S. Haggart to Brian Kopinto,
rate mortgages, popular with homeowners seeking to refinance their home loan to a lower rate, increased slightly this week.
The average rate rose to 5.16% from 5.15% last week. A year ago, it averaged 6.72%, Freddie Mac said.
trustee, and Chester Land Trust, trustee of, 475 Huntington Road, $150,000.
Vladimir Zhupikov to John Johnson and Elizabeth A. Johnson, 386 Crane Road, $46,000.
CHICOPEE
Brandon C. Sulikowski to Anthony Conte, 117 Marten St., $260,000.
Cheryl A. Wright to Amanda Creek and Daniel Creek, 71 Clairmont Ave., $335,000.
Danielle A. Daddamio to Stephanie F. Paquin and Christine E. Paquin, 2 Pine St., $319,900.
Deepon Realty LLC, to Umar Bhatti and Shehnaz Kousar, 200 Lambert Terrace, Unit 20, $250,000.
Frederick J. Sabbs IV, to Chandler Mompoint, 617 McKinstry Ave., $375,000.
Gary R. Laperle to Donald Brainerd and Mary Brainerd, 27 Moore St., $285,000.
George Bruso and Linda Bruso to Hunan Mian, 238 Meadow St., $210,000.
Kelley Ann Leclerc, representative, and Jerome F. Curran, estate, to Paulo Dias and Jose Dias, 107 Bostwick Lane, $315,000.
Lynette C. Mailhott and Lynette C. Mailhot to Edward Z. Beattie and Bailey Brunelle-Beattie, 259 Fletcher Circle, $340,000.
Rui Baltazar and Susana Baltazar to Erin L. O’Rourke, 8 Yorktown Court, $242,000.
Simard Apartments LLC, to Brook Edge Apartments LLC, 1464 Simard Drive, $10,500,000.
Wendy Mailhot to Margarita Matias, 104 Hilton St., $125,000.
COLRAIN
Mary L. Schmith to Meara Swinson, 32 Charlemont Road, $150,000.
CONWAY
Eileen F. Strzegowski, “aka” Eileen Strzegowski, and Joseph C. Strzegowski Jr., “aka” Joseph Strzegowski, to Leigh C. Cam-
petti and Lora G. Woodward, 362 Reeds Bridge Road, $560,000. Town of Conway to Henry W. Horstmann, Ashfield Road, $6,501.
DEERFIELD
Michael R. Morawski Jr., to Skyjac Realty LLC, Greenfield Road, “aka” Routes 5&10, $70,000.
EAST LONGMEADOW
Elise A. Sacharczyk to Emily Boucher and Amanda Boucher, 2 Garland Ave., $375,000. Group LLC, Analytical Sciences Marketing and AnnieMac Private Equity Cash2keys to Victoria Houle, 353 Pease Road, $475,000.
Hung T Tu to Hung T Tu and Duyen Ngoc Nguyen, 371 Pease Road, $100.
Hung T Tu to Hung T Tu and Duyen Ngoc Nguyen, 371 Pease Road, $100.
Julie Kristy Grondin to Ellen Valley, 51 Maplehurst Ave., $315,000.
Susan Churchill, Neil Churchill and Neal Churchill to Lucinda A. Rancourt and Mark S. Rancourt, 11 Princeton St., $425,000.
EASTHAMPTON
Max Hill, Maxwell Bloomfield, Tricia Padden, Tricia Bloomfield and Ryan Martin to EDS Enterprises LLC, 8 Carol Ave., $300,000.
GILL
Jean A. Murphy and Peter J. Murphy to Dianne Jirka and Pavel Jirka, 52 Riverview Drive, $552,000.
GOSHEN
James Pesuit to James Pesuit, trustee, and James Pesuit Revocable Trust, 10 Washington Road South, $100.
Michael G. George and Kristen E. Barry-George to Aaron M. Loux and Lindsey K. Burke, 33 Main St., $410,500.
Deeds
GRANBY
Alyson J. Reed to Brianna Calabano, Kara M. DeYoung and Stephen D. Denette Jr., 5 Harris St., $100. Bedrock Financial LLC, trustee, and Sugar Magnolia Realty Trust to Anthony Perla and Tamara Perla, Morgan Street, $20,000.
GREENFIELD
Elaine Howard and Kevin William Howard to Barbara A. Ahearn and Lawrence B. Smith, 15 Oak Hill Road, $378,500.
Purple Heart Homes Inc., to Pioneer Valley Habitat for Humanity Inc., 5 Birch St., $42,000.
Jennifer Thompson, personal representative of the Estate of Jeffrey E. Kenney Sr., “aka” Jeffrey E. Kenney, to Laurie A. Paul, 15 Country Club Road, $156,000. Mohammed Neamah to Caroline Cesaitis and Brandon Sulikowski, 114 Elm St., $299,900.
Killeen Management & Holdings Inc, “fka” Detectoguard Inc., to Son Treme, 106 Wells St., $140,000.
Elizabeth Beaudet Kearns and Kraig M. Kearns to Denise Beaudet and Nathalie Lewis, 183 Green River Road, $260,000.
HADLEY
Patricia Ann Kowal, estate, Patricia A. Kowal, estate, and Robert J. Kowal, personal representative, to Hadley Town, 234 Middle St., $325,000.
HEATH
Corinne R. Gawlik and Raymond C. Gawlik to Frederick Golba, 78 Shawnee Drive, $2,000.
Frederick Golba to Sherri A. Boivin, 78 Shawnee Drive, $16,500.
HOLLAND
Stephen Smith, Christine Smith and Christine Krikorian to Sean Conti and Emily Spinner, 10 Bernie Road, $325,000.
HOLYOKE
Anne Marie Lisella and John Ortiz to Lara Christine Roach and Natalie Simone Bourdon, 71 Berkshire St., $288,000.
Daniel H. Deschaine to Heather Stites Chenoweth Hamilton and William Perreault, 557 South St., $282,000.
Maple Springfield Associates Limited Partnership and Maple Springfield Management Corp., to Behavioral Health Network Inc., 235 Maple St, $480,000.
John A. Foley Jr., representative, and John A. Foley, estate, to MJ Real Estate LLC, 24 Washington Ave., $135,000.
Nancy B. Walford, trustee, and Barbara C. Bernard Revocable Indenture of Trust of, to Honora L. McDonough, 19 Steiger Road, $430,000.
Neil D. McElwey and Rae Etta McElwey to Neil S. McElwey, 475 Mountain Road, $350,000.
Shaline Marie Serrano and Claribel Torres to Melvin Ortiz-Arce, 72-74 Linden St., $320,000.
LEVERETT
Second Long Plain LLC, to Alexandra Coots and Ryan Coots, 312314 Long Plain Road, $391,750.
LONGMEADOW
Kimberly Walters Adegoke and Adesina Adegoke to Johnny T Le and Tiffany Le, 21 Dunsany Drive, $455,000.
LUDLOW
Antonio J. Sanches and Maria J. Sanches to Muhammet John Oflu, 26-28 Joy St., $550,000.
Debra A. Rugani to Gregg A. Fellion and Holly A. Bajgier, 111 Chapin Greene, $339,900.
Harvester Services LLC, to 185 West Property Holdings LLC, 185 West Ave., Unit 103, $70,000.
Michael J. Hiersche, estate, Brendan Hiersche, representative, and Erin Kate Hiersche, representative, to Erin K. Hiersche, 571 Moore St., $300,000.
MONSON
Bruce W. Taylor, representative, and George F. Taylor, estate, to Devon Hatfield and Shanna Steen, 178 Palmer Road, $325,000.
Geraldine A. Chandler to David Lawrence Rondeau and Hannah Lynn Sweet, 192 Brimfield Road, $385,000.
Nancy Rouette to Jeremy Menard and Rebecca Menard, 81 Munn Road, $438,000.
Richard A. Davenport to Nicholas James Ketterman, 30 Wilbraham Road, $295,000.
MONTAGUE
Amy E. Watts, “fka” Amy E. Bovaird, to Neill L. Bovaird Jr., 16 Old Sunderland Road, $316,500.
NORTHAMPTON
Henry H. Ng and Samuel Y. Ng to David Rama Elson, Victoria Elson and Barry D. Elson, 80 Damon Road, $275,000.
Julie Marie Blevins, Julie M. Blevins, David Allan Blevins and David A. Blevins to Julie M. Belvins, trustee, David A. Blevins, trustee, Julie M. Blevins Living Trust and David A. Blevins Living Trust, 23 Randolph Place, $100. Amy Georgie-Ann Filepas, personal representative, Robert E. Racicot, estate, and Amy Georgie-Ann Filepas to Calvin Filepas, 1 Pine Valley Road, $250,000.
Elizabeth A. Maguire, personal representative, Kathleen E. Dunn, estate, and Kathleen Yarrows, estate, to Renato Bartoli and Anna P. Bartoli, 6 Denise Court, $511,000.
Julee L. Clement to Peiyi Shen and Zili Gao, 428 Bridge Road, $634,900.
Mary Carol Skinner to Benjamin Larrison and Mariana Brandman, 809 Park Hill Road, $790,000.
Kathleen Alves, Kathleen A. Alves and Phyllis King to Kathleen A. Alves, trustee, Phyllis King, trustee, and Kathleen Alves & Phyllis King 2024 Trust, 65 Warner St., $100.
John R. Copen, trustee, and Herman Copen Revocable Trust to Siby Adina and Sridhar Adina, 267 Locust St., $192,000.
Tamar Shadur, trustee, and Tamar Shadur Revocable Trust to Cheryl A. Jacques, trustee, and Cheryl A. Jacques Family Trust, 73 Bridge St., $269,000.
Jennifer A. Dawkins to Allison J. Carmody and Ryan Lennon, 15 Claire St., and 15 Claire Ave., $420,000.
ORANGE
Nicholas J. Chandler to Miguel Abreu and Dulce Hidalgo, 252258 East Main St., $345,000.
Michael Talbot and Jillian Whitney to James M. Grimley and Pamela M. Grimley, 51 East Road, $412,000.
Isobel A. Black to Jillian Jae Whitney, 31 High St., $313,000.
PALMER
Eric M. Miner, representative, Jean Marie Miner, estate, and Jean M. Miner, estate, to Magdalena Kennel, 1129 Thorndike St., $121,000.
JNB Property Investment Inc., to Carlos Juan Sanchez Rivera and Nelmarie Del C. Core Suarez, 253 Ware St., $89,000.
Ronald M. Izyk to Glenn Labier and Sara Labier, 60 North St., $225,000.
Stephen Theodore Masley Jr., and Helena Masley to Paul Ireland, 1108 Park St., $130,000.
Vincent Nastasi and Karen A. Nastasi to John Grieco, 2250 Main St., $251,500.
Wenwei Ma to Evan T. Lang and Lauren Y. Lang, 23 Riverside St., $305,000.
PELHAM
Ying Xie to Qiye Sun, 325 Amherst Road, $150,000.
Amethyst Brook Apartments LLC, to Better Homes Properties LLC, 18-20 Amherst Road and 22 Amherst Road, $100.
Better Homes Properties LLC, to Matthew S. Sirois and Sarah A. Metts-Murphy, 16 Amherst Road, $140,000.
ROWE
David F. Nadeau and Ila E. Vinson to Christine A. Bailey and Jeffrey A. Bailey, Brittingham Hill Road, $15,000.
SOUTH HADLEY
Steven R. Pelletier and Kristin S. Loiko to Steven R. Pelletier, 2 Silverwood Terrace, $100.
Cristian O. Cintron Rivera and Felicia J. Heredia to Kristin Loiko-Pelletier, 332 Newton St., $305,000.
Louis Cote and Christina Santana to Michael J. Craig and Jessica J. Craig, 86 Alvord St., $525,000.
Denise Taylor to Francis W. Taylor Jr., trustee, Denise M. Taylor, trustee, and Francis W. Taylor Jr. & Denise M. Taylor Revocable Trust, 41 West Summit St. $100.
Carol G. Shanahan to David Steinhardt, trustee, Tobi B. Richman-Steinhardt, trustee, and David Steinhardt & Tobi Richman-Steinhardt Revocable Trust, 22 Pine Grove Drive, $379,900.
SOUTHAMPTON
Thomas Corell, personal representative, and Robert Seher, estate, to Ryan David York, 340 College Highway, $300,000.
SOUTHWICK
Craig V. Vogel and Maria M. Vogel to Ashley Deane, 83 Powder Mill Road, $280,000.
Michael A. Wing and Salema Wing to Andrea Dirico, 2 Hillcrest Ave., $247,500.
SPRINGFIELD
Abdallah Mosa Abdelmohsen Alwreikat to Colleen O. Quintyne, 410 Allen St., $300,000.
Alina Domagala to 21 Bremen LLC, 21 Bremen St., $261,000. Antoinette Harris, Antoinette Reed Harris and Antoinette Reed Martin to Kashawn Harris, 104 Melrose St., $100.
Bretta Construction LLC, to Chenghua Deng and Hongyan Ding, 24 Bissell Ave., $372,000.
Carlos M. Merejildo Almonte to Andrea Ciano Jr., and Pietro Ciano, 57-59 Leyfred Terrace, $355,000.
Cassandra L. Fett to Alyssa Anderson, 71 Endicott St., $320,000. Christian Perez and Mackenzie Perez to Kathleen Potter, 48 Gardens Drive, $400,000.
Christopher O’Brien to David T. Cubi, 21-23 Santa Barbara St., $340,000.
Crimelde A. Gomes and Grimelde A. Gomes to Marcus Tichenor and Kyara Romeu, 1360 Worcester St., $193,000.
Cynthia Munford to Cornerstone Homebuying LLC, 207 Lamont St., $140,000.
Daniel F. Miles and Andrea Miles to Wayne Hooker and Lisa Wyatt-Hooker, 235 State St., Unit 227, $248,000.
Daniel J. Herzig, trustee, Daniel J. Herzig Jr., trustee, and Morrison Irrevocable Trust, trustee of, to Sandra A. O’Brien, trustee, and O’Brien Revocable Trust, trustee of, 80 Pine Grove St., $390,000. Dos Gorditos LLC, trustee, and Dawes Street Realty Trust, trustee of, to Shaline Serrano and Claribel Torres, 67 Dawes St., $360,000. Elisenda Santiago-Lopez to Om Acres Investment LLC, 116 Birchland Ave., $339,900.
James & James Investments LLC, to Jefferson Apartments LLC, 47 White St., $880,000.
James B Morrissey (JR TRS), John Swift (TRS) and ust Springfield Ventures Realty Tr (TRS OF) to Emmanuel Bonilla and Bessi Paguada, 26 Pine Street Ct, $210,000.
James Steele to Giggle Gardens Inc., 182 Walnut St., $270,000. Jesus Jimenez Rodriguez to Selvin Cruz Alvarado, 107 Carol Ann St., $339,000.
John C. Taylor Jr., and Angela Taylor to Joseph Taylor, 333 Nottingham St., $173,000.
Joseph M. Carlos and Briana Carlos to Elhajj Elshabazz, 76-78 Malden St., $300,000.
Lindsay Katzir and Brandon W. Katzir to Jose Villanueva, 140 Groveland St., $285,000.
Lucas Giusto, trustee, Dominic Santaniello, trustee, and Naples Home Buyers Trust, trustee of, to Robert Kent Perry and Patricia R.
How can I restore the dull finish on an antique wood piece?
By Jeanne Huber
The Washington Post
Q. We acquired a Knabe baby grand piano from a neighbor whose grandfather purchased it in the 1920s. The wood is really dull, and we’d like to be able to polish or refinish it without damaging the piano. We tried Howard Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish and Conditioner, which worked beautifully on other antique wood furniture, but it didn’t get absorbed. Should we try to remove the varnish and if so, how? Or should we just apply a really good beeswax furniture polish and leave it at that?
A. Wood finishes can become dull over time in several ways. Sometimes the finish develops
very fine cracks, known as crazing, because it became too stiff with age to keep up with the inevitable expansion and contraction of wood as relative humidity fluctuates during the year. These cracks are all within the finish; they don’t extend all the way through. A crazed finish is smooth, just dull. Or there can be even deeper damage, creating an alligatored look. The finish cracks all the way through and leaves little islands of finish separated by narrow lines of a lighter color. If you run your hand over an alligatored surface, you can feel slight bumps or roughness. Unfortunately, from the pictures you sent, it appears the finish on your piano is alligatored. A crazed finish can often be restored. An alligatored finish probably needs to be stripped and redone — or accepted as
Deeds
CONTINUES FROM PAGE F12
Perry, 127 Abbott St., $410,000.
Nauset Properties and Massasoit Properties Inc., to Inland MA Terminal LLC, 1053 Page Boulevard, $600,000.
Nauset Properties and Massasoit Properties Inc., to Inland MA Terminal LLC, 1095 Page Boulevard, $400,000.
Paul A. Paquette, Lorraine E. Ketchen and Lorraine A. Ketchen to Andrea Messier and Jeremy B. Bailey, 2044 Allen St., $320,000. Renovagent LLC, to Carr Architecture Limited Partnership, 194 Sumner Ave., $190,000.
Roger Steven Manahan, estate, and Kelly A. Ambrogio, representative, to William Lucas and Amber Lucas, 142 Westminster St, $180,000.
Samuel Braverman and Katie Braverman to Jose A. Fuentes, 104-106 Pasadena St., $405,000.
Sean Callahan and James Jaron to Podolyanchuk Properties LLC, 164 Switzer Ave., $575,000.
Spring Forth Properties LLC, to Jane Vernalia, 50-52 Windsor St., $300,000.
Syed S. Ahsan, trustee, and Eman Khairi Realty Trust, trustee of, to Island Farm Realty LLC, 24-26 Fort Pleasant Ave., $299,900.
Thuy Tina Nguyen to Phan010314 LLC, 16 Dickinson St., $200,000.
TL Bretta Realty LLC, to Estefania Londono, 61 Lawe St., $315,000.
Trang M Pham and Nu Tien Phuoc Nguyen to Manuel Diaz Ruiz, 234 Allen St., $292,000. Wilmington Savings Fund Society, trustee,
a sign of age. But before you conclude that nothing short of stripping would work, it’s probably still useful to go through the steps of figuring out what kind of finish you’re dealing with. While unlikely, there’s a slim chance alligatored shellac can be restored.
In the 1920s, the finish on interior woodwork — whether for pianos, furniture, floors or trim — could have been shellac, lacquer or oil-based varnish. There’s a protocol for determining the type you’re dealing with:
• Start by applying a little denatured alcohol to an inconspicuous place. Wait a few minutes, then dab at the spot with a gloved finger. If any finish comes off or if the finish feels soft or gooey, you’re dealing with shellac.
• If there is no change, apply
and Stanwich Mortgage Loan Trust I, trustee of, to Genevieve Construction Development Group Inc., 150 Cloran St., $163,800.
Zeky Ahmed Murra Anton and Megan Haley Murra-Rocke to Robert Tango Sr., 147 Belvidere St., $304,000.
SUNDERLAND
Karen H. Keegan, individually and as personal representative of the Estate of Roy A. LaClaire, to Jean-Baptiste Hebert, 53 Old Amherst Road, $200,000.
TOLLAND
Gail Starr Hill Lopaze and G. Starr Lopaze to Randy W. Hill, Adrienne Prince and Adrienne F. Hill Day, 236 New Boston Road, $227,000.
WARE
Juan Chen to Caar Development LLC, 56 Coffey Hill Road, $288,000.
Matthew R. Gromosky to Dariel Antonio Garcia Rodriguez and Jade Ellen Marie Muller, 12 Barnes St., $285,000.
WARWICK
Karen T. Delfausse to Gabriella Carolini and Thomas Parent, 125 Hastings Pond Road, $425,000.
WEST SPRINGFIELD
Aga Realty LLC, to NPM Realty LLC, 79-81 Exposition Terrace, $1,150,000.
Carol Derby, Carol D. Govan and Rosalie A. Derby to Jeremy P. Boettcher and Heather L.
a little lacquer thinner to another area. Wait a few minutes and test again with a gloved finger. If the finish softened, it’s lacquer. (Lacquer thinner also softens shellac, but by starting the testing with denatured alcohol, you’ve already ruled that out.)
• If nothing happened, the finish is a varnish. Or the piece might have been refinished in the intervening decades with polyurethane or another modern finish.
Boettcher, 18 Brook Place, $320,000.
Hiram Rodriguez Jr., and Deborah L. Rodriguez to Judith Ferri and Peter Ferri, 75 Lewis Ave., $343,000.
Juan Domingo Genao Garcia to Travis Williams, 32 Colony Road, Unit 2A, $137,000.
Pamela Pratt to Cynthia J. Valliere, 426 Massachusetts Ave., $279,000.
WESTFIELD
Alan R. Schwartz and Joan E. Greer-Schwartz to Timothy Snyder and Bibiani Snyder, 20 Holland Ave., $437,000.
Flora Tung to Omar S. Cox, 205 Elm St., $375,000.
Janet Cisek, trustee, Janice Faginski, trustee, and Cecile R. Swikalus Revocable Living Trust, trustee of, to SB&J LLC, Casimir Street, Lot 94, $350,000.
Jessica I. Chisholm to John Day Robinson IV, and Courtney Robinson, 35 Kane Brothers Circle, $435,000.
Joy J. Bunnell to Betsy Ann Souness, 6 Highland Ave., $303,000.
Kimberly A. Charette to Tyler Cook, 166 Hillside Road, Unit 7, $241,000.
Norma L. Knight to Waterfront Vista LLC, 25 First St., $200,000.
Robin R. Sheldon to Francis Tangredi, 1430 Russell Road, Unit 29, $200,000.
Rosalind Krenzel and Rosalind Krenzul to Andrei Kryshtapovich, 44 Floral Ave., $300,000.
WILBRAHAM
Arthur Lam and Jessica Leung to Chi Chun Wong, 12 Stonegate Circle, $680,000.
Brian D. Lavinio, trustee, and Rosemary Lavinio 2012 Revocable Trust, trustee of, to Christian I. Perez, 9 Westwood Drive, $505,000. Chi Chun Wong to Mark R. Robar, 20 Decorie Drive, $448,000.
Jennifer L. Raiche, trustee, Steven C. Raiche, trustee, and Raiche Family Trust, trustee of, to Russell Degenza and Day Degenza, 299 Main St., $325,000.
WILLIAMSBURG
John Godden to Stephen Vaiano and Esme Herrmann, 9 Bridge St., $210,000.
Peter F. Falco and Tracy B. Falco to Sean T. Sullivan and Laurie A. Sullivan, 5 Deer Haven Drive, $850,000.
James W. Forster and Nancy S. Forster to James W. Forster and Nancy S. Forster, 64 Adams Road, $100.
Grass Hill Farm LLC, to James W. Forster and Nancy Forster, Adams Road, $100.
James W. Forster and Nancy S. Forster to Grass Hill Farm LLC, Adams Road, $100.
Karen I. Tripp, Karen D. Tripp and James S. Tripp, attorney-in-fact, to Nathaniel Zajac, 10 Dewey Court, $150,000.
WORTHINGTON
Jeffrey Racz and Delores Racz to Holly T. Chamberlin, 11 Buffington Hill Road, $350,000.
Nancy E. Babcock to Benjamin W. Guidi and Kathyrn E. Dempsey, 210 Lindsey Hill Road, $403,000.
Joseph E. Best and Raeph Laughingwell to Matthew Snow and Anne Marie Snow, 200 Scott Road, $400,000.
A carpenter restores old wooden furniture with a belt sander.
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How can I hang heavy art without damaging the wall?
By Jeanne Huber The Washington Post
Q. I want to hang heavy artwork made of 25 Moroccan tiles on a stucco wall in our screened porch. I don’t want to damage the stucco. Can I attach hooks to the molding along the ceiling and hang the artwork with wires? Or do I need to get a stud finder and attach some sort of picture hanger into the studs? Or is there another solution?
A. Hanging heavy artwork from crown molding would avoid making holes in the stucco wall, an appealing idea. But don’t do it. Crown molding is typically attached with two-inch-long finishing nails. Not only are the nails relatively thin, but the heads are small. That makes them easy to patch and paint over. But finishing nails don’t hold well, so your heavy artwork — and the crown molding — could come crashing down.
Nails hold into wood because of the pressure that wood fibers exert as they bend against the shaft when the nail pushes in. The thinner or shorter the nail, the fewer fibers make contact so the weaker the connection. Plus, the nail’s head acts as a sort of clamp; the smaller it is, the less resistance there is to the nail popping out or slipping through the wood.
Adding to the nail issue is the nature of crown molding. Although it looks substantial, most crown molding is attached at an angle and is mostly hollow underneath, with only the top and bottom edges making contact with the ceiling and wall. It’s easy for an edge to split if a nail isn’t set just right. And these days, there’s no guarantee that the crown molding is even solid wood. Most newer crown molding, especially for indoor use, is a type of particleboard. It works fine for covering the seam between wall and ceiling, but it wouldn’t win a strength contest.
The best way to hang heavy artwork on a wall built with studs — whether the studs are covered with stucco, plaster, drywall or wood paneling — is with screws that bite directly into the studs. (Stucco can also go over block, brick or concrete walls, but your house, judging from the picture you sent, appears to be a traditional one with framed walls.)
Often, it’s possible to locate studs by tapping on a wall and paying attention to where hollow sounds turn to thuds. But that doesn’t work well on stucco. If you can see where nails hold the crown or baseboard molding to the wall, those generally also point to where the studs are. Or get a stud sensor — but use it on the interior side of the wall. Stucco typically has chicken wire or other metal mesh hidden underneath, to give the stucco something to grip. The metal interferes with the sensor’s
Wood
ability to detect density differences within the wall. But by using the sensor on the interior side, you avoid that issue.
Mark the studs, then measure over to the door. Then transfer the measurements to the exterior side. Confirm the stud location by drilling a narrow, easy-to-patch hole and making sure it reaches wood. Be aware that newer stucco walls might have foam insulation over the studs, so you may need to drill a few inches deep. Studs are usually 16 or 24 inches apart, measured from their centerlines. Once you know you’ve located the studs, switch to a bigger bit sized for more substantial screws. A masonry bit works best to get through the cement-based stucco, but switch to a regular bit for pre-drilling into wood.
How many screws? In part, this depends on how you hang the piece. Unless a stud happens to be where you want the center of the artwork or midway between two studs, consider getting an interlocking metal or wood hanging system, called a French cleat, so you can attach the wall piece where the studs are, then scoot the artwork back and forth until it’s centered where it looks best. Weigh your tiled piece and choose a system that’s rated for at least a slightly higher weight. Also factor in the thickness of whatever is behind the tiles so you don’t break them when mounting the hangers.
As a good rule of thumb for what length and thickness of screws to use to attach hangers to the wall, consider going with what installers use to hang upper cabinets, because these screws need to secure both the cabinets and what they hold. Typically, cabinet screws have wide, washer-like heads and are No. 8 or No. 10 width and two and a half inches long, enough so at least half the shaft is in the stud after passing through the cabinet and drywall.
If insulation is behind the stucco, you may need longer screws. Thicker ones are fine, too. Just don’t use drywall screws; they are too brittle and could snap.
I asked Carol FiedlerKawaguchi, a woodworker on Bainbridge Island, Wash., who has restored or refinished several pianos as well as numerous antique furniture pieces, how you can clean and restore a finish. She starts by thoroughly cleaning the surface, using paint thinner (also sold as mineral spirits) to remove old waxes and oil-based grime and a rag dampened with warm water with a tiny bit of hand dishwashing liquid to remove sticky residue. Wearing chemical-resistant gloves and a respirator with organic-vapor cartridges, and working where there is excellent ventilation and no chance of a flame, she then goes over the surface with a cloth moistened with denatured alcohol, if testing showed the finish is shellac, or with a solution of half denatured alcohol and half lacquer thinner, which works well on both shellac or lacquer. Lacquer thinner is more volatile than denatured alcohol, so the surface dries too fast if she uses lacquer thinner alone.
The solvent wash helps a crazed shellac or lacquer finish soften so it can mend its tiny cracks; the finish then rehardens once the solvent evaporates. Depending on the condition of the finish, she might try to work the finish just a bit, or she might try to remove some of it. Brushing on a dilute finish, letting that dry, buffing it out and then topping with undiluted finish results in a fresh look that still preserves the patina of the old piece.
It’s harder and often impossible to soften an alligatored finish enough to get the cracked pieces to merge back into a smooth finish. So, this type of finish usually needs to be completely removed.
The 50-50 solution of denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner would work, but you’ll need a supply of rags to sop up the old finish. If the finish didn’t soften with
these solvents, it’s probably varnish, which needs to be removed with a stripper labeled for varnish removal. Varnish never reliquefies, so it’s never possible to remove crazing or alligatoring by softening the existing finish. If you’ve refinished furniture and enjoyed the process (even if just at the end, when you could enjoy the results), you might be a candidate for refinishing a baby grand piano. Fiedler-Kawaguchi has done it several times for customers who were willing to pay $5,000 or more. She cautions that it’s a huge, time-consuming job, and once you start, you’re committed to finishing. But it’s possible it’s not all that different from refinishing other furniture, just a bigger job.
If you want to do it on your own, she suggests checking the internet for instructions on how to disassemble a baby grand piano, a task often done before a piano is moved. Take off the lid and all other parts that come off and tackle them one by one. Before you commit to restoring or refinishing, ask a piano tuner to evaluate the instrument and whether anything needs to be done to get or keep it in good playing condition.
Don’t have it tuned if you are planning to tackle the finish, though; tune it after you’re done.
What about using waxes or other products to enhance the shine of the existing finish? Steve Taylor, owner of Allied Piano and Finish Supply, which sells a variety of waxes and other finish-care products, recommends against that. “Shining it up might accentuate the alligatoring,” he said. He added that he knows of no filler or treatment, other than stripping and starting over, that will repair an alligatored finish.
One consolation if you decide to leave the piano finish as-is: Unlike with a guitar or a violin, the finish on the wooden parts of a piano won’t affect the quality of the sound. Keep the lights low and just enjoy the music.
The best way to hang heavy artwork on a wall built with studs is with screws that bite directly into the studs. (ADOBE STOCK IMAGES)
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