Restaurant Inc Fall 2019 by Performance & Reinhart Foodservice Publications

EDUCATE

ISSUE

F al

FALL

07,

COLLABORATE

A Ne w T w i st on

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2019

EMPOWER |

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MAKE YOUR

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Chef Justin

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The Porterhouse Steak INGREDIENTS 20 Ounce (#29922) Porterhouse Steak Bone-In Legacy 72 Angus 1/4 Ounce Pepper Black Coarse Grind 12 Mesh 1/4 Ounce Salt Fleur-De-Sel 5 Ounces Carrot Petite Fresh 1 Ounce Arugula Wild Fresh 1 1/2 Ounces Onion Red Jumbo Carton Fresh Hi-Low 2 Ounces Tomato Cherry Bulk Fresh 1 Ounce Cheese Goat Crumbled 2 Pound Tray Refrigerated 1/4 Ounce Walnut Candied Pieces Large, crushed up 1/2 Ounce Dressing Onion Vidalia Sweet INSTRUCTIONS Season carrots with Culinary Secrets North Woods seasoning and roast in the oven prior to preparing the steak. Season the Porterhouse with salt and coarse ground pepper & mark steak on a hot grill before finishing in a cast iron skillet in the oven. Prepare arugula salad mix by tossing with sweet Vidalia dressing. Top salad with sliced red onion, tomato halves, candied walnuts, and goat cheese. After preparing steak to desired temperature let rest for 5-8 minutes. While the steak is resting heat up the carrots on a hot grill. Plate your Porterhouse, carrots, and salad. To finish your steak, place a cut piece of compound butter in the center of the steak.

Chef Justin has worked in restaurants since he was 16 years old. He earned his first Executive Chef position at Axel’s River Grille, a casual, fine dining supper club in Mendota, MN, where he started as a line cook. Subsequently, he served as Executive Chef at Lucky’s 13 Pub and helped open their Plymouth, MN location. He also worked as Sous Chef at Crave American Kitchen and Sushi Bar in the Eden Prairie and Mall of America locations before moving to his wife’s hometown of La Crosse, WI, and starting his Reinhart career in the Meat Department.

QUICK BITES FOR YOUR BRAIN

Before we feast upon this issue, here’s a little something to whet your appetite: from our favorite new books to dining and drinking trends getting the most buzz. – compiled by Audarshia Townsend

A winter twist to the classic Dark and Stormy Seems appropriate to replace rum with whiskey in this wintery version of the classic Dark and Stormy cocktail. Created by Carey Bringle, the proprietor/chef of Nashville’s Peg Leg Porker, the Pork and Stormy’s secret ingredient is the famed barbecue joint’s signature eight-year bourbon.

PORK AND STORMY INGREDIENTS

INSTRUCTIONS

1½ oz Peg Leg Porker eight-year Fill glass with ice. Pour over Tennessee straight bourbon whiskey ingredients. Garnish with lime wedge. 1½ oz ginger beer Lime wedges

Globally influenced fare on octane The four-seat chef counter at New York’s brand-new Luthun, in the East Village, is for prime viewing of the team at work in the kitchen. Helmed by chefs Nahid Ahmed and Arjuna Bull, the restaurant specializes in modern global fare and is inspired by the various countries in which the chefs have lived and worked. Their impressive resumes combined include the likes of El Bulli, The French Laundry, The Fat Duck and The Clove Club. At Luthun, Ahmed and Bull serve the dishes themselves in an intimate, 26-seat space.

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TASTY (SOUND) BITES Beyond Feast of the Seven Fishes, what does a traditional Italian dinner look like during the Christmas season?

Siena Tavern chef/partner Fabio Viviani on Italian holiday traditions …

To be honest, the Feast of the Seven Fishes is not very popular in Italy. Only a small portion of the southern region of Italy, by the sea, celebrates that. It’s very Italian American; my family never heard of it. The only traditional part of it for the holidays, no matter how many people are in your family, everybody on Sunday gathers at someone’s house and everyone cooks. It’s usually a pot roast, lasagna and roasted potatoes, which are very traditional dishes for the holiday, across the board in Italy.

LISTEN UP

The Restaurant Inc. podcast has stacked up quite a few sessions in its first year, and in case you’ve been missing out, here’s a friendly reminder. Most are conducted by Reinhart Foodservice Executive Corporate Chef Jeff Merry and yours truly, as we’re chatting up all sorts of experts, from other Reinhart chefs to industry leaders on the trends everyone’s talking about. You can tune in to them all here:

restaurantinc.libsyn.com

NOW ON SOUNDCLOUD!

soundcloud.com/user-261565493

READ

THIS

Southern pecan pie laced with whiskey. Wilted mixed greens with bacon. Champagne cocktails. This is how some upper middle class, African-American families once feasted during special occasions. In “Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African-American Cooking,” James Beard Award winning author Toni-Tipton Martin dives extensively into a little-known part of black culinary history. “Jubilee” is adapted from rediscovered African-American cookbooks with 125 recipes that have been modernized to recreate in your kitchen. There is plenty of historical text to devour as well.

FALL 2019 | 3

LETTER FROM REINHART

Dear Restaurant Inc. readers: Restaurant Inc. turned six in 2019. While that might not be a milestone birthday, it’s important for us to note because with each edition, we get to tell exciting new stories, covering the issues you care about. Whether the articles we feature in Restaurant Inc. directly affect your operations—or inspire you to think about your business differently—our mission is to be a voice you can trust. That’s one of many reasons why we’ve expanded our coverage online and with podcasts—to stay on top of trends and hot topics. The fall and holiday combined issue for Restaurant Inc. goes far beyond the typical autumn food features you’ll find in most foodservice publications. In many of the food-focused articles, we’re highlighting heritage cuisine, from modernized Asian and French fare to Jewish delis for a new generation. Recipes, of course, are a big part of each issue, with expanded coverage in our online edition. Think new takes on potato latkes, a signature lasagna recipe from celebrity chef Fabio Viviani and hearty, globally inspired stews certain to keep your guests warm all season. Looking for tips on attracting new customers—and retaining loyal ones? You’ll want to check out the BUSINESS/OPERATIONS section for stories on “decorating your bar for the holidays,” “catering to singles” and how to best “partner with influencers.” BEHIND THE BAR brings holiday cheer by deconstructing the classic Tom and Jerry cocktail as well as spotlighting signature punches, alternatives to Champagne and some new tools on the scene. And because we don’t leave anyone out, guests with restricted diets should be thrilled with our HEALTHY LIVING recommendations, including diet-friendly holiday cocktails and lighter brunch offerings. In all, it’s been a great year and we’re looking forward to the future. Cheers,

Eric Cronert EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, RESTAURANT INC

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert MANAGING EDITOR Audarshia Townsend ART DIRECTION Jenn Bushman DESIGNERS Drew Frigo, Lauren Jonson, Morgan Gilmore PHOTOGRAPHER Dan Coha FOOD STYLIST Susan Barrientos-Hevey Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C., Attn: Marketing, 6250 N. River Road, Suite 9000, Rosemont, IL 60018 or rfsmarketing@ rfsdelivers.com

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CREATIVE CONTRIBUTORS

JENN BUSHMAN Jenn is a Creative Services Manager at Reinhart Foodservice heading up brand and creative leadership and is based in Chicago, IL. She possesses a combination of conceptual and strategic strength and technical proficiency. Jenn always knew she wanted to pursue a creative career. Though she spends most of her days on the computer, she is passionate about finding ways to work with her hands. Art has always been her first love and she continues to oil paint in her free time.

DREW FRIGO A well-rounded creative professional, Drew brings bold ideas to the table as the Senior Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice. Thinking through drawing, he has very few limits or rules when he draws, which attributes to his knack for generating fresh ideas. With that said, his photographic eye, technical savviness, and being surrounded by a great team help bring these ideas to life. Orange juice, family, fat biking, creating art, and music are huge motivators.

MORGAN GILMORE Morgan is a Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice in Rosemont. Ill.. She has a desire to work hard and make what she designs relevant. She sees a blank page as a challenge. When Morgan is not in front of the computer, she's either practicing calligraphy, reading a book or at the gym.

LAUREN JONSON Lauren is an avid baker who does graphic design, in that order. She has a passion for creativity, and typically says yes to any challenge – in and out of the kitchen. Designing for over 12 years, she has developed multiple magazine concepts and marketing campaigns all while perfecting her grandmother’s bourbon pecan pie. Lauren’s life is a flavorful collaboration of art and raising her two beautiful children.

DAN COHA Dan Coha is a mainstay in Chicago food photography. He has worked with many advertising and promotional agencies, and packaging and design firms, as well as direct corporate clients over the years. His studio is located in Chicago’s River West neighborhood. COHAPHOTO.COM

SUSAN BARRIENTOS-HEVEY Susan is a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef who began her career in New York’s Mercer Kitchen, and followed Jean Georges to Minneapolis’s Chambers Kitchen. Always aspiring to make food beautiful, Susan's career in the food styling world has allowed her to work on many brand names. She has contributed to projects for General Mills, Target, Bush’s Beans, Walmart, and continues with Reinhart's Restaurant Inc and The Dish. SUSANBARRIENTOSFOOD.COM

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AUDARSHIA TOWNSEND

CONTRIBUTORS | WRITERS

A Chicago-based author, seasoned food and cocktail culture writer and regular contributor to Chicago’s top-rated WGNTV’s “WGN Morning News,” Audarshia Townsend is Restaurant Inc.’s managing editor. Previously, her work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Tribune Magazine, Essence, Los Angeles Times, Playboy.com, World’s 50 Best Bars and Anthony Bourdain’s Exploring Parts Unknown. She’s also discussed food and drink trends on several local television and radio shows, was a featured expert on The Travel Channel, and served as a judge three years in a row for the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants. She enjoys discovering new dining and drinking trends in her hometown and beyond.

MINDY S. KOLOF The more complex the subject matter, the better Mindy likes to break it down and communicate it with passion. Twenty+ years of experience translates to writing about every type of culinary trend, cutting-edge product and visionary foodservice leader. As principal of her own boutique public relations firm, she’s crafted numerous top-notch communications programs. Her favorite mashup: the intersection of health, wellness and culinary. Mindy graduated from University of Illinois, Champaign, with a bachelor’s in Journalism.

ARI BENDERSKY Ari Bendersky is a lifestyle journalist specializing in food, wine, spirits and travel. The former founding editor of Eater Chicago, Ari has been writing for 20+ years and his work has appeared in the New York Times, WSJ magazine, Associated Press, Men's Journal, Wine Enthusiast, Departures, RollingStone.com, Crain's Chicago Business, Liquor.com and many more publications. A lover of discovering new food and cultures, Ari travels whenever possible, recently visiting Italy, Finland, Argentina, Portugal and Mexico. He lives in Chicago with his husband and their super cute scruffy dog, Eddie (the girl!).

ERICA BETHE LEVIN Erica Bethe Levin is a food writer, entrepreneur and hospitality consultant. At 24, she founded Chicago's largest online magazine for women, CheekyChicago. She has since been featured in the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Sun-Times, Crain's Chicago Business and on CNN, ABC, NBC, FOX and WGN covering all things lifestyle. She also launched the Chicago market for Reserve, a table management system backed by the co-founder of Uber, and is currently the director of sales for Coyle Hospitality.

VICTOR OZOLS Victor Ozols is a Brooklyn-based writer, editor, and editorial consultant specializing in food, spirits, travel, and design. His work has appeared in Serious Eats, BlackBook, Esquire, and Modern Luxury Interiors, among other publications. When he’s not scouring New York for the best barbecue and craft beers, he’s busy at home with his wife and two sons.

BRIANA RUPEL Briana Rupel is a freelance writer and bartender, with more than 15 years of well-rounded experience in the food and beverage industry. She has created craft cocktails for a Four Diamond hotel and designed and led an interactive cocktail seminar. When off the clock, she prefers a hoppy local tap at her neighborhood dive. Bri currently resides in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where she continuously finds creative inspiration in the lush woods and rocky beaches bordering Lake Superior.

JEFFREY WARD Jeffrey Ward is a public relations and marketing executive who has worked with many of Chicago’s and the country’s most recognizable chefs and restaurateurs. A leader in the culinary and hospitality industry for more than 15 years, his career path was galvanized through his role of director of marketing and communications for the fine-dining division of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. Most recently he worked as senior strategist for the culinary and hospitality division at Agency H5 and a partner at SHOUT Marketing & Media Relations before launching his own namesake communications agency in 2019. His specialties include concept openings and promotional launches as well as long-term management campaigns designed to keep culinary brands in the public eye and marketplace.

M. JANE JOHNSON Johnson is never happier than when tracking down a great story that will inspire, inform and ring true to restaurant-industry readers. Her career is so last century—well, at least that’s when it started, and it continues to be a source of endless delight, especially since the research (eating in restaurants and talking to brilliantly cool people) is deliciously satisfying. Off the clock, Johnson actually loves to cook though she spends an inordinate amount of time trying to find Chinese cumin lamb on Chicago-area menus. She counts a well-made gin and tonic among her best and most steadfast friends.

FALL 2019 | 7

CONTENTS

Vol. 07, Issue 04 | FALL 2020

IN THIS ISSUE

02–03 Quick Bites 04 Letter from Reinhart 06–07 Contributors

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS 12 ONE QUICK QUESTION: How do you keep your team motivated and engaged especially during the distractions of a busy holiday season? 14 TECH TALK: The Winners 16 Capturing That Ho-Ho-Holiday Party Business 20 Conquering Food Costs 22 A FLAIR FOR THE FESTIVE: Striking the right tone with holiday décor 24 Elevating the Atmosphere 27 Making ‘Influencer’ Marketing Work for Your Restaurant 32 Cater to the Holidays 34 Table for One? Absolutely! 37 Prix-Fixe Party Time

PRODUCT REVIEWS 42 ROOTING FOR THE VEGGIES: Platter up with these picture-perfect offerings 44 Natural Beauties

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47 STIRRING THE POT: Chefs ladle out globally influenced stews for winter & beyond 50 COMFORT IN A CRUST: Diners are spoiled for choices as savory pies go gourmet 52 Cookies for a Sweet Holiday

FROM THE KITCHEN 56 The Jewish Deli Reincarnated 60 French Twist 62 Preserving Legacy 64 FEASTING ON THE FISHES: Create a magical Christmas Eve dinner based on an Italian tradition 66 My Heritage: The Latke 70 Pennsylvanian Dutch Traditions Worth Borrowing 72 Take Your Kids’ Menu Global 76 Don’t Roll the Dice with Your Casino Buffet Menu

BEHIND THE BAR 80 POUR IT ON! Hearty Fall Dishes

92 Deconstructing the Tom & Jerry 96 Pack a Punch 98 Heaven Hill’s National Brand Educator Explores Her Heritage through Cocktails

BREAKING BREAD 102 THE X FACTOR: NEW BABY, NEW RESTAURANT: It’s all in a week’s work for Chicago’s award-winning chef Beverly Kim 104 Y’ALL COME BACK: 80 Years of Angelo’s

HEALTHY LIVING 106 SUNDAY SALUTATION: Keeping holiday brunches festive with light, flavorful dishes. 108 SLIMMER SIPS: Lighten up Winter Cocktails while keeping spirits high 110 Helping Hands for the Holidays 112 Senior Celebrations 115 Ad Index 116 LAST BITES: James Beard Awardee, culinary historian on how her heritage has influenced modern American fare.

84 Offering guests fabulous bubbly toasts that won’t break their bank 86 Planning your Holiday Cocktail Menu 88 Tools of the Trade FALL 2019 | 9

BACON WRAPPED QUAIL LEG ON PESTO CRUSTINI Find this recipe & more at rfsdelivers.com/ restaurant-inc/recipes

Reinhart Direct & Gourmet Foodservice provides the highest quality, origin-specific products available, from Alaska, Hawaii, Australia, Italy, Spain, France, Belgium, and other regions of the world. Imported specialties include cheese, chocolates, seafood, meats & game, fruit purees, oils & vinegars, sausages, and more. With the expertise of chefs and foodservice professionals, Gourmet Foodservice is dedicated to sourcing and delivering high quality products with an

emphasis on customer service. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a virtual, one-stop shopping experience for all of our customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; highend culinary needs. To ensure freshness and quality, perishable products ship directly from the source (growers, artisan farmers, and fishing boats), resulting in a fresher and higher quality product. GOURMETFOODSERVICEGROUPRFS.COM

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REINHART DIRECT HOLIDAY MUST HAVES TURDUCKEN STUFFED W/ SAUSAGE JAMBALAYA This seasonal favorite is produced in a classic New Orleans style. This premium, semi-boneless turkey (we leave only the wings and legs) is stuffed with boneless duck, boneless chicken, and mouthwatering Cajun-style cornbread pork sausage stuffing.

SWEETY DROPS Small teardrop-shaped red peppers from the highlands of peru. Peppers are in brine with a firm & tender texture and a sweet & spicy flavor, similar in flavor to the larger, sweety peppers. RFS# KL478

RFS# KP926

FIG BALSAMIC GLAZE Also called cremas or balsamic reductions, they are made from grape must and balsamic vinegar in Modena, Italy. No added sugars or preserves. RFS# KH506

JAM, HOT PEPPER BERRY BACON Sweet raspberries and strawberries are mixed with roasted red peppers and real bacon to create the perfect blend of sweet, spicy and smoky. Use as a marinade and finishing sauce for roasted poultry or pork dishes; also a great addition to a Buffalo or venison burger! RFS# KA312

MEDITERRANEAN BASIL PESTO Starts with simple, wholesome ingredients to offer a fresh alternative to dull, lifeless jar pesto. We kept it a bit chunky for the artisan mouthfeel and look. The aroma of field fresh basil bursts from the jar, garlic, pine nuts and freshly grated Parmesan. RFS# KH022

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON REINAHRT DIRECT SHIP, CONTACT YOUR LOCAL REINHART SALES CONSULTANT. 2019 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C.

QUAIL LEGS These smallest of game poultry are small, tasty birds, usually served as appetizers. Quail legs take well to marinades and bold seasonings. RFS# KJ742

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

One Quick Question How do you keep your team motivated and engaged, especially during the distractions of a busy holiday season? by M. Jane Johnson

Keeping team members motivated and fully onboard with the mission is always a management challenge and never more so than when the crazy-busys of the holiday season sets in. We asked around to get insights on how to engage and energize staff when what they really want is to be out partying themselves.

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MIKE DAVIS chef, Terra, Columbia, S.C. "During the holidays, my staff is ready to rip. With consistent business in the dining room and large parties in the private room, they are motivated. They know they will dip into overtime and that service will go by faster as there is no time to waste. It is during the slower times of year that I find it hardest to keep them engaged and have to look for projects to prevent idle minds and hands.”

MICHAEL SCHULTZ Co-founder/CEO, Chicago-based Fairgrounds Coffee and Infuse Hospitality “I’m the least important person in the business. My job is to build an incubator for the next generation of chefs and provide opportunity for all the people who work here. It’s important to find out their dreams and then find out how our company can help them achieve them. Every decision is framed by asking myself, ‘How does this impact our people?' We teach them to increase productivity so they can take the time to care for their own needs. I don’t want them to be a slave to the company. They sense that their roles are entrepreneurial, so they feel valued; that keeps them engaged.”

WILL LEE beverage director, Grey Ghost Detroit and Second Best, Detroit “Promoting growth and education and providing the tools and resources to succeed beyond Grey Ghost and Second Best. As a small business, it’s hard to compete against the salaries that larger corporate restaurants, hotels and bars are able to offer. What I offer are opportunities to grow, the time and effort to foster that growth and the proper tools to seize the right opportunities as they come. I always offer my assistance in any way I can when they work on outside projects and ideas. Those are things that no salary or benefits will ever get you and those are the things that I openly talk about and push my team to take advantage of every single day.” n

FALL 2019 | 13

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Tech Talk by Ari Bendersky

The Winners Check out these innovative products you’ll start seeing everywhere. Even in your kitchen. Who doesn’t like a shiny new toy? Whether that’s a new sports car, drone or, more relevant, something fun for your kitchen, new products always make us happy. And when they can enhance your business? Even better. Each year, the National Restaurant Association Show awards the most innovative products released for the culinary industry. Here, we highlight some products and machinery that could enhance your kitchen experience and productivity.

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AXCESS 2000.H PICK-UP STATION BY APEX SUPPLY CHAIN TECHNOLOGIES If you do a robust take-out business, this may be your new favorite toy. Designed in connection with Little Caesars, this unit, a first for the industry, keeps packaged to-go food hot and ready for take away. This two-sided unit has a flow-through design, allowing for easier loading for restaurant employees. So, when customers arrive, after receiving a text or email their order is ready, they enter a unique code, grab their food and go without worry it’s been sitting on a counter getting cold. It’s made for pizzas, chicken, ribs and other full-meal orders.

SINKTECH BY CHICAGO BAR SHOP Ever wonder if your three-sink bar system needs cleaning? Now you don’t have to as SinkTech by Chicago Bar Shop answers the question for you. This new behind-the-bar, plug-and-play technology senses when water temperature needs regulating and can add more soap and sanitizer. It keeps track of water usage and automatically can order more cleaning solutions as they get low. It reportedly uses less water than a traditional dishwasher, saving you money.

MODWATER BY HOSHIZAKI Still, sparkling or tap? Now you don’t have to necessarily stock multiple bottles of expensive waters, but instead can install the small MODwater. This tankless spacesaving unit dispenses four kinds of water— sparkling, chilled, hot and alkaline—giving even more options to your customers. The patented carbonation technology serves up to 20 gallons of sparkling water per hour.

VERSATILE CHEF STATION BY VULCAN Whether you have a massive kitchen or are starved of space, you can save money by reducing the number of machines you have to buy. Vulcan’s multi-function cooktop allows for more functionality in one unit to braise, boil, sauté, sear, simmer, steam, shallow fry, re-therm and more. Less machinery also means less to clean, saving time at the end of each shift. n

FALL 2019 | 15

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Capturing That

Ho-Ho-Holiday

Party Business by Jeffrey Ward

In theory, holiday party business should be the cream on top of operatorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; overall revenue, but in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s competitive market, the last quarter can make or break end-of-year expectations. To fully take advantage of private party business, including the fickle corporate sector, operators should position their strategy front and center, starting outreach early.

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“We hope to have a base of events booked by June—by repeat clients, early planners and those hosting large events,” says Allison Gallese, director of marketing, sales & special events for Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. “Reaching out to our warm clients is a no-brainer. The guest knows you, what you offer and presumably had a wonderful time last year.” Active promotion begins after Labor Day. One would think that targeted Facebook ads would be a strong performer, but Gallese has tested this and discovered that is not true. “Messaging and ads on LinkedIn is a better digital option because you are able to target more specifically by industry, location and job position,” she says. “Email is still very effective. We can target people who have previously hosted an event and are actively planning.” Hit your email list early in September, track open and response rates, then adjust additional blasts moving forward as needed. Keeping tabs on inquiries and bookings and comparing to the previous year is key to monitoring efforts moving into the home stretch. If bookings are softer in September, incentives can be added to promotional messaging. Jena Cherry, director of sales for SPIN, the popular Ping-Pong social club, offers something to encourage confirmations. “We have offered complimentary bar upgrades, a free photographer for the event or gift certificates. This year, we are offering a complimentary dessert cart along with complimentary bar upgrade for groups that book before October,” she says. Adds Gallese, “We find that we can pick-up a decent amount of parties in November as budgets open up and planners decide at the last minute to celebrate a good year. This allows us to suggest the less sought days of the week and lunch events.” The most successful form of marketing, however, is still word of mouth and exceptional hospitality. “Hosting events well always translates into more events,” says Gallese. “The guest who comes to a wedding, baby shower or corporate meeting and has a memorable meal or experience with the staff will definitely think of the venue for their holiday event.” n

FALL 2019 | 17

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Conquering Food Costs In a business with notoriously thin margins, managing food costs is job one in restaurant kitchens. by M. Jane Johnson

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Shai Fargian is a bit of a math geek and that, says the chef/ partner of Charlotte, N.C.’s three-unit Yafo Kitchen, is every bit as important to the restaurants’ success as his culinary chops and people skills. “One reason restaurants fail is because chefs focus on the artistic aspects, while losing sight of things like food costs," he says. "That’s not sustainable long term."

Calculating Food Costs A lot more goes into food costs than the calculation of menu price versus expense of the ingredients. For accurate accounting, factor in these hidden costs, says Washburne’s Dean Gregory Beachey: ∙∙ Wrong or improperly prepared guest orders ∙∙ Unserved/leftover food ∙∙ Shrinkage from theft ∙∙ Food trim, cooking shrinkage and waste ∙∙ Order and delivery discrepancies ∙∙ Improper portioning ∙∙ Not adhering to standardized recipes

His college degree in economics certainly helps, but so does close monitoring of food costs and careful balancing of higher and lower margin menu items. “Falafel has a very different cost than rotisserie-cooked Marrakesh lamb with harissa yogurt. And that’s how you build a menu, bringing in a mix that allows the kitchen to hold a food cost.” Gregory Beachey, associate dean of Chicago’s Washburne Culinary Institute, drives home that idea, emphasizing that restaurants live and die by food costs. “Menus have to be designed holistically, as an integral part of the operation,” he notes. “You can’t calculate food costs without knowing labor costs, the lease and utilities. It all goes together.” For students, he says, one of the most important lessons is that every scrap of food that goes into the trash is lost money. “It’s pennies, but margins are thin and they add up,” he continues. “Look at it this way: How many seats are in the restaurant, how many turns per shift, how many people? If you waste 15 cents per person, that’s a big number over the course of a year. It might be the difference between success and failure.” Beachey also says smart buying is a discipline worth mastering. “Know your inventory inside and out and try to have each ingredient used in at least two preparations,” he says, adding that outside partnerships are essential. “Have a good relationship with your vendors and trust them to act in your best interests.” n

FALL 2019 | 21

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

A Flair for the Festive Striking the right tone with holiday dÃ©cor by Victor Ozols

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Almost every restaurant and bar in the country decorates for the holidays, and for good reason. Not only does it make a space festive and fun, it’s smart business. Even on a budget, a few strings of lights can make a familiar spot seem welcoming and new, while those with grander ambitions can transform a space into an Instagram-worthy holiday destination.

It’s all about finding the right balance, according to Adam Burke, vice president of operations at The Smith, which has locations in Chicago, New York and Washington, D.C. Throughout December, its restaurants are adorned with giant red bows outside and wreaths and colored lights in the dining rooms. “Our approach is subtle, but we love to bring the fun and joy of the holidays into each of our restaurants without being overwhelming,” Burke says. “We want to make sure the décor is festive, while being conscious that not all of our guests celebrate in the same way.” At Boston’s Eastern Standard, general manager Caroline Markham keeps the décor bright, while steering clear some of the more common motifs. “It’s an embrace of the changing of the seasons, so we look for more neutral winter stuff and hang a ton of white lights,” she explains. “We also choose specific colored Christmas ornaments, nothing red, nothing blue.” Not everybody is subdued in their approach. Rose Previte makes sure her Washington, D.C. restaurant, Compass Rose, is always ready for a party.

“We decorate a lot because it’s the type of place people come for celebrations,” Previte explains. “We’ll do colored lights, and we’ve done animal scenes. One year it was reindeer, one year it was owls. I’m not going to lie, it can be a little bit gaudy, but it’s fun." Just how festive can a venue get? If anyone would know, it’s Joann Spiegel, general manager of the Miracle family of Christmas-themed, popup bars. Now in its sixth year, the company has plans to convert more than 100 bars and event spaces throughout the country into Miracle holiday bar and Beachbum Jerry Presents: Sippin' Santa tiki bar locations. “Christmas is a huge blend of many different traditions, but our take on it is a little tacky sometimes,” Spiegel says. “There’s a lot of nostalgia and it’s very retro, and we have a bit of a naughty Santa since it’s in a cocktail environment." The bars all offer an upscale menu of craft cocktails, but that seems secondary to the décor. “People are going to these locations for the visual aspect, to be transported through nostalgia,” she explains. “All bars decorate for Christmas, but with us it’s cranked up and completely saturated.” n

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Elevating the Atmosphere Restaurateurs sweat the details to set a strategy for success by Victor Ozols

Great food is just one part of the restaurant dining experience. Countless factors contribute to the atmosphere, from the configuration of the tables to the volume of the music to the attentiveness of the service. We checked in with four restaurateurs who shared their strategies for getting the details just right.

Seating A plan is essential to efficiently seat parties of different sizes, according to Adam Elzer, owner of New York’s Sauce Restaurant, Sauce Pizzeria, and Coco & Cru. Dining rooms are configured each night based on reservations, with room for walk-ins. “Depending on how busy it is, we may give guests a specific length of time associated with their reservation,” Elzer says. “We work with the kitchen and our staff on the floor to make sure they're meeting this without rushing guests.”

Lighting The light’s always perfect at Boston’s Eastern Standard, and general manager Caroline Markham monitors its three dozen lighting tracks obsessively to keep it that way. Bright lights at breakfast soften through the day. “We think of it as painting with light the way theater technicians dress the stage,” Markham says.

Heating & Air Conditioning Keeping a dining room comfortable requires focus, according to Emily Hyland, co-owner of Emmy Squared, Emily and Violet in New York and Nashville. “Temperature is something a good manager is always paying attention to,” Hyland explains. “Every restaurant has unique HVAC, and it’s important to tune it in just right so it’s as cool as possible in the summer, and warm in the winter.”

Music Nothing sets a scene like music, and Rose Previte, owner of Compass Rose and Maydan in Washington, D.C., leaves it to a trusted expert. “My longtime bartender personalizes the playlist to the clientele and the hour, a lot of old school hip-hop with an international and Middle Eastern vibe,” Previte says. “People come for the music, and they’ll tell you that it makes them feel transported.”

Service Friendly, professional service makes all the difference. That means making sure the servers know the menu—and fixing problems quickly. “You have to take fearless, immediate action,” explains Markham. “To a guest, when something goes wrong with their meal, every second that no one has acknowledged the problem feels like an eternity.” And never give up. “We once had a grumpy Yelp reviewer who was really angry about something,” Hyland recalls. “I was able to have him come back in as my guest, wait on him personally, and turn his whole experience around.” n

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Making 'Influencer' Marketing Work for Your Restaurant Operators, owners share approaches that make sense for their bottom line by Lena Katz

Influencers are unavoidable lately, with “requests to collab” flowing in daily. From the operator’s perspective, it’s overwhelming to evaluate—yet everyone hopes that successful, cost-effective influencer marketing exists. As a creative consultant who engages influencers on behalf of brands, I realize many practices of influencer agencies and platforms are at odds with brands’ objectives. Evaluation needs to become more transparent. In that spirit, three successful foodservice professionals in non-marketing roles share here—with zero PR spin— what’s worked and what hasn’t.

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Clare Wallace Sardella, St. Louis, Mo.

As general manager of a Gerard Craft-owned restaurant, Wallace deals with local and national influencers, sometimes through agency or CVB middlemen, and other times directly. What’s Worked? “Lately, we've been working with Explore St. Louis, a tourism marketing entity. They vet out-of-state ‘professional’ influencer inquiries. What's great about this program is they give the guests pre-paid credit cards to use for their meals, as opposed to putting the financial burden on us.” What Hasn’t? “Overall, I think it's difficult to know what is, or if there is, a return on investment (ROI).”

Lamar Moore

Swill Inn/Chit Chat Lounge, Chicago Moore is a well-known, Chicago-based chef, with popular social channels and steady media coverage—most recently of his latest restaurant partnership with Dustin Drankiewicz, who serves as Swill Inn and Chit Chat Lounge’s beverage manager. Yet, wouldbe collaborators often request sponsorship without knowing the co-owners’ impressive online footprint. What’s Worked? “I have a great grasp on influencer marketing tactics, and I know what’s needed for Swill and Chit Chat. For example, if I want bodies in the building for Chit Chat, then I choose an influencer deejay with a following to pack the house and music in our genre.” What Hasn’t? “Doing an event and offering comped drinks and/or food can become a huge cost for us, without really bringing ROI. I feel Dustin and I carry a huge social reach and following already. We would rather pour money into our staff and venue.”

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Kyle Zimmerman He’s created bar programs for various clients, from fine-dining restaurants like The Hutch in Oklahoma City, Okla., to beachfront Tulum popups. Zimmerman believes influencers can effectively “sell a dream” for vacations vying for destination list inclusion. In smaller markets, organic, word-of-mouth events attract regulars. What’s Worked? “A bar in Oklahoma City was a favorite of [NBA star] Kevin Durant. He had a house two blocks away. When people saw on his social [media channels] that he was hanging out at the bar, it was jam packed every night. “With regard to restaurant/bar influencers, the ‘brand ambassadors’ who came up in the service industry have a much deeper understanding of everything, including profit-and-loss statements, than people who become ‘Instagram famous’ overnight and don’t understand the long hours and hard work entailed in hospitality. What Hasn’t? “It’s a short-term payoff. I don’t think comping a meal or round of drinks is out of line, but if you become known for flying influencers in, putting them up and paying huge appearance fees, you get caught in that cycle of having to constantly make big expenditures.” n

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Cater to the Holidays Promoting off-site catering can boost your holiday sales by Ari Bendersky

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With a surge in company and personal holiday parties at the end of the year, having a catering arm for your restaurant can boost your end-of-year sales. But you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go into it without a good plan and team in place.

“It’s a great time to capitalize on when people want to have parties,” says Bill Telepan, executive chef of Oceana in New York. “Designate one person to be on catering and that person can focus on making it a really good showing.” Telepan adds, when you succeed with holiday-party catering, you’ll make an impact on those customers, which can lead to additional catering business throughout the year and the following holiday season. He also advises to be flexible enough in your menu offerings. There’s nothing worse than losing a potentially large catering order because you can’t or won’t accommodate someone’s menu needs.

Adam Romo, CEO of Eatzi’s Market & Bakery with locations around Texas, says you can have two styles of your primary catering offerings because, “We’ve learned that while customers consistently ask for more variety, they still typically choose the more traditional menu items,” he says. To mix things up, Eatzi’s offers a traditional roasted turkey on its Thanksgiving menu, but also includes one with a chipotle raspberry glaze as well as a chipotle bacon turkey leg. In addition to traditional cornbread stuffing, they also include one with sausage.

That said, you could also focus on one item and do it really well. Take Chicago’s About Last Knife’s beef Wellington package. For the holiday season in 2018, guests could order a full ($275) or half ($150) fully cooked beef Wellington that just needed to be reheated and sliced at its destination. The full provided 10 slices and came with wild mushroom duxelle, puff pastry, prosciutto, red wine bordelaise and whipped potatoes. “You need to find something you do better than most people that they can’t duplicate it,” advises Jason Lane, About Last Knife’s food and beverage general manager. “Find that niche that makes you unique and stand out from the crowd. Yes, you could do this at home, but we take the hard work out of it for you.” And when it comes to pulling together a large-format holiday party, isn’t it always better to let people know they can outsource the heavy lifting to someone who like you, ideally, can do it better? n

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Table for One? Absolutely! Don't leave single customers out in the cold during the holidays. by Ari Bendersky

The wintertime holidays stimulate a rise in gathering, celebrating and general frivolity. Restaurants, hopefully, see reservation books swell, welcome more people to the bars and book more end-of-the-year company soirees. But not everyone joins in on the fun.

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If someone is single, lives far from family or works alone most of the time as a freelancer, the holidays can feel lonely, but they don’t have to. “The holidays can be a tough time for many people, especially in the [restaurant] industry,” says Christian Hunter, chef at locavore-focused Sorghum & Salt in Charleston, S.C. “We strive to make everyone feel at home and even send out an extra course to welcome them.” Hunter says restaurant owners can hold theme nights catering to singles like hosting a secret Santa/white elephant or a food drive to bring in a non-perishable food item for a charitable organization in return for a discount at the restaurant. In addition, if you have special seating, leave it available for single diners. “When possible, we always invite solo diners to sit at our chef’s counter so they can have a more immersive experience,” Hunter adds. “The cooks are able to guide them through the menu and wine.” Angel Powell, founder of Charleston, S.C.,-based South City Public Relations, has clients in numerous cities like Nashville, St. Louis and Jackson, Miss. She adds that to make single diners more comfortable is to arrange your dining room in such a way it’s not set up only for romance or largegroup gatherings. “If I walked into a restaurant as a single person and the entire set up was romantic two-tops, I might feel a little uncomfortable,” Powell says. “However, if you focus on chefs’ counters and community tables, the vibe becomes more fun and relaxing. People tend to co-mingle and have a livelier evening.” Promote your restaurant setup and any events through social media posts, including photos of the room. Powell suggests adding straightforward posts about fun singles dinners or other events, or sharing a photo of the chef’s table with a caption to the tune of, “Your table for one is waiting.” By being inviting for everyone, you might just make a regular patron for a solo diner who feels at home. “A welcoming environment not only improves [someone’s] spirits during a tough time,” Powell adds, “but will likely create a loyal customer.” Then it’s a win-win for everyone. n

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Prix-Fixe Party Time From the promise of quick, pre-theater dinners to the grandiosity of New Year’s Eve fetes, multi-course, fixed-price menus serve different purposes. RI explores their place in the restaurant world. by M. Jane Johnson

Nicholas Makris describes prix-fixe menus as “an experience, a big blow-out, a platform for adventuresome guests,” and that pretty much explains why they show up at many restaurants during the holiday season.

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With dual careers, Makris—an assistant professor of food and beverage management at Johnson & Wales University and owner of Andreas restaurant in Providence, R.I.—views them from different perspectives. As an instructor, he rattles off all kinds of reasons operators and guests love them. “One way to entice guests is to offer something different at the holidays, allow them to experience a little more than usual,” he recommends. “Guests appreciate the structure, the communal aspects of a set menu. It feels more like family and that’s important at holidays like Thanksgiving and Christmas. And there’s usually an element of splurge—and who doesn’t love that?” Restaurants feel the set-menu love, too. Much more so than with ala carte offerings, prix-fixe menus allow operators to keep a sharp eye on costs, project ordering and have a solid handle on preparation. “They know exactly what people will order and on busy nights that can be a huge advantage for staff. They won’t get slammed. And staffing is easier since you know head counts and prep needs,” Makris notes. Craig Barbour, chef/owner of Roots Catering and Café in Charlotte, N.C., acknowledges that the familiarity of set menus is a boon. “When you do them, it becomes clear what guests prefer," he says. "With a little history, you learn to hone in on what sells and can really work the crowd pleasers." Makris tells students that the most successful prix-fixe menus, holiday or otherwise, should align with the concept. “It’s OK to go out there a bit with special ingredients, but don’t stray from what your kitchen is known for,” he advises. He also warns against too much rigidity. “You don’t want guests to put handcuffs on them. Build in some flexibility, especially for those who have allergies or dietary restrictions.” He’s a fan of having at least two offerings, a three- and a five-course and an even bigger fan of building in extra "oomph." “Shake things up with a little flair. Holidays tend to bring out people who are celebrating, and the best menus will become part of their experience, a big part of what they remember.”

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Menu mix Prix fixe doesn’t have to be limited only to splashy holidays. Here are other scenarios to consider to help build business: ∙∙ Pre-theater/event menus offered during defined hours, say 5:30 to 7:30 ∙∙ A mix of ala carte and prix-fixe offerings on the regular menu gives diners the option to explore the kitchen’s full capabilities ∙∙ Two- to three-course quick lunches can help assure diners that they can keep to their busy schedules ∙∙ Restaurant week, wine dinners, special events and the like bring built-in opportunities to promote the restaurant and entice regulars with unique menu offerings

photos from Roots Catering and CafĂŠ in Charlotte, N.C.,

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BECAUSE WE BOTH CARE ABOUT THE JOURNEY FROM PLANT TO PLATE. Like you and your customers, we care about fresh food. But we want to work with all our partners to redefine fresh, together. We want to ensure that every step of the process is innovative, inspiring, and creative. So we can bring fresh approaches and fresh thinking to all of our premium farm-to-table produce, and you can bring the freshest ideas to your customers. To learn more about how weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re redefining fresh, together, contact your [Distributor] Sales Representative.

markon.com

The first step in composing a craveable menu is using the finest fresh fruits and vegetables. Markon First Crop®, Ready-Set-Serve® (RSS), and Markon Essentials® produce items ensure that your recipes will be filled with high-quality, delicious ingredients every time. Toss cruciferous RSS Heart-Y Slaw—think broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, radish, and kale—with a vibrant, vitamin-packed beet dressing for a presentation that wows. Serve on its own as a side salad and sandwich topper or incorporate chopped chicken or shrimp for a light main course. Be inspired at markon.com.

Join Markon’s online community today and enrich your knowledge and connections. Browse: markon.com Learn: mobile app Connect: social media

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Rooting for the Veggies Platter up with these picture-perfect offerings by Mindy Kolof

In a plant-based world, vegetables have become the unabashed stars of Instagram’s pixelated heaven for foodies, flaunting nature’s best hues, shapes and textures. So, it was only a matter of time before the previously modest crudité platter flexed its sinewy muscle to become a spectacle on par with a mile-high seafood tower or a flaming bananas Foster. We’ll show you how to leverage the raw, and sometimes roasted, appeal of this sustainable, healthy trend that’s taking root everywhere. As operators revealed in a recent Datassential survey, the crudité platter is an ideal way to show off the pure quality of products with a minimum of prep time and maximum of shareability. Others noted the benefits of highlighting their commitment to using local, seasonal produce. Most important, almost 50 percent considered the crudité platter a long-term trend, buoyed by an equally large and growing number of consumers, led by the under-30 diner, who report their eagerness to try it at a restaurant. It’s a lesson applied with verve at Clever Rabbit in Chicago’s millennial-rich Wicker Park neighborhood, where young and trendy vegetarians/flexitarians don’t think twice about spending $28 on a generously stocked platter of fresh and pickled vegetables with edamame hummus, poblano cheese and herb ranch dip. At the Wheelhouse in Dallas, the crudité is priced at a more reasonable $15, and is a popular pick throughout the year, featuring everything from breakfast radishes to red and green little gem lettuce, served with homemade green goddess dressing and hummus.

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You may not find details like these written out on many menus, because as a “trendologist,” Mike Kostyo points out, labeling them simply as “crudite” keeps it nimble, allowing the flexibility to change veggies with the harvest season. And sometimes, words aren’t enough to describe the breathtaking scope of carefully crafted, perfectly plated crudité. It’s about images that leap off the Instagram feed to grab the full attention of prospective customers. We’ll show you how to start styling and build the bountiful, beautiful platters you’ll find in our online guide at rfsdelivers.com/restaurant-inc—with tips and tricks from our team of Reinhart experts.

DIPPING POINTS Crudite platters also provide an opportunity to experiment fearlessly with flavorful dips and spreads that may just be emerging from the wings. See the opposite page for some on the fast track.

BAGNA CAUDA, an Italian-inspired blend of olive oil, melted butter, chopped anchovies and garlic, is slow cooked into an umami-rich dip. TRY THIS: serve with grilled broccoli on bruschetta.

LABNEH, a versatile, Middle Eastern staple also known as yogurt cheese, is made by straining full-fat Greek yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined colander over a bowl for a few days. The resulting salty tang is already a palate pleaser, but it’s incredibly easy to pump it up by adding a few drops of olive oil here, a handful of fresh herbs there and a shake of za’atar throughout. TRY THIS: Serve with roasted beets or eggplant (with a touch of molasses), fried zucchini or fresh ripe tomatoes.

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Natural Beauties by Mindy Kolof

These fruits and vegetables may not be perfect, but show them some love— after all, they’re saving the planet. There’s nothing ugly about imperfect produce except what happens if you don’t use it: wasted, adding to the more than 33 million tons of food that ends up in landfills annually or the six billion pounds of fresh produce that go unharvested or unsold each year.* Produce can be labeled “imperfect” because strict cosmetic standards for color, size, weight or blemish levels aren’t met, but as we all know, beauty is more than skin deep.

operators the opportunity to purchase usable, good quality produce that simply didn’t meet the exacting criteria for appearance. According to Cathy Gomez, marketing director, Markon now moves more than 3.6 million packages and 136 million pounds of misshapen, imperfect produce each year, including apples, avocados, bell peppers, cucumbers, lemons, limes, mushrooms, onions, oranges, potatoes and tomatoes.

In the last five years, organizations such as Imperfect Produce, Hungry Harvest and Misfits Market have cropped up to provide new markets for growers by buying up farmers’ ugly or excess produce and shipping it directly to customers’ doorsteps, often by subscription. Preceding them all, for the foodservice industry, was Markon Cooperative, Reinhart’s exclusive produce partner.

That’s a good look for us all.

The Markon Essentials line was presciently created back in 1985 to change the trajectory, and offers

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But we can go even further, and in 2019, we’re no longer relegating them to supporting roles in soups and casseroles or hiding them beneath their more perfect siblings. We’re now embracing their flaws and letting them bask in the spotlight, as seen in this splendid setup using Markon’s imperfect produce, perfectly ready for prime time.

INSPIRING MEMORABLE HOLIDAY MEALS. SMITHFIELD SPIRAL HAMS ARE THE CENTER-OF-PLATE HOLIDAY CLASSIC THAT GUESTS CRAVE. A favorite during any holiday season, Farmland Spiral Hams from Smithfield Culinary are slow-smoked over hickory wood for a distinctive flavor found only in bone-in hams. They’re sliced using a continuous spiral motion that cuts the meat completely to the bone with state-of-the-art slicing equipment for consistency. And while they’re sliced thin, they remain attached to the bone but release perfectly with a fork. So, serve the best to your customers during the holidays with Farmland Spiral Hams. For more information, contact your Reinhart representative, visit SmithfieldCulinary.com or call 888-327-6526.

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

Stirring the Pot Chefs ladle out globally influenced stews for winter & beyond by Victor Ozols

As cold weather blankets much of the country, chefs are adding warm, hearty stews to their menus for diners looking to shake off the chill. Naturally, American classics like beef stew will always be in demand, but many restaurateurs are finding success with stews that have a global influence, from Europe to Asia and beyond.

FALL 2019 | 47

In her recipes, Johanna Hellrigl, executive chef of Doi Moi in Washington, D.C., wants to emphasize the distinctions between the regional cuisines of Southeast Asia. An avid traveler who has cooked with local chefs around the world, Hellrigl helped expand the restaurant’s Vietnamese and Thai roots to include Cambodia, Laos, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, Singapore and Sri Lanka. Her khao soi, for example, reflects both her painstaking research and ability to adapt. “With khao soi, you’ve got the Burmese version and the Thai version, and I learned how to make it in one country and then the other,” she explains. “I realized that I wanted a more elevated experience, using the highest quality proteins and vegetables that I can find and still captivate the audience.” The drama comes in the form of a bone-in Rohan duck leg that’s been braised for hours in khao soi sauce instead of the more common chicken, pork or beef. “It reminds me of when I was pulling out a chicken bone in Burma for my khao soi, but there’s more depth and flavor and it’s more tender and braised, so there’s an experience to it that sets it apart,” Hellrigl explains. The chef also makes a bakso soup that has roots in Indonesia and East Timor, but her braised short rib jungle curry remains one of her favorite dishes on the menu. While most curries are made with coconut milk, this dry curry hails from the heavily jungled area of northern Thailand around Chiang Mai, where palm trees are scarce. “Short rib is not something you’d normally find in a jungle curry, it’s usually pork or catfish or

48 | RESTAURANT INC

chicken, but with the beautiful flavors of that dry curry and Thai eggplant I wanted something rich without the fat of a coconut,” she explains. Served in a homemade beef pho broth flavored with licorice root and star anise, it’s plated with sliced, de-seeded Thai eggplant, curry paste, Thai basil and fish sauce. Diners are advised to keep their water glasses close. “It’s not for the faint of heart because it’s really spicy, but it’s a warming spice rather than an in-your-face, fresh chili spice,” Hellrigl says. “Anybody who’s willing to adventure usually gets it.” At Café Marie-Jeanne in Chicago, chef Mike Simmons uses French techniques on locally produced, seasonal produce for stews throughout the winter months. In addition to a variety of “market-based, vegetable-focused” soups such as vegetarian white bean escarole, he offers an elegantly unique take on French rabbit stew. “We call it barbecued rabbit because the rabbit’s smoked and grilled and it’s tender and spiced in an American barbecue way, but it’s served with a light, brothy stew of morels, radishes, turnips, turnip greens, chamomile and mustard seed,” Simmons explains. “It eats like a stew, but it has this smoked, bone-in rabbit that comes with the broth,” he continues. “It’s a way to prepare vegetables that’s bright, fresh, satisfying, flavorful and nuanced without just having butter-glazed vegetables.” n

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

Comfort in a Crust Diners are spoiled for choices as savory pies go gourmet by Victor Ozols

Savory pies are hot right now, and not just because temperatures are cold. While demand for dishes like shepherd’s pie and chicken pot pie always rises as the mercury drops, this season more chefs than ever are creating gourmet savory pies that mix classic techniques with modern ideas. We checked in with a few to see how they’re taking an ancient culinary tradition into the present. “We specialize in what we refer to as the Commonwealth of Pies,” says Adam Panayiotou, one of three South African-born founders of Panbury’s, which has two café locations in Atlanta and an online business. “We decided there was a gap in the market for properly made British, Australian, New Zealand and South African-style handheld pies.” While expat entrepreneurs have attempted to bring such pies stateside before, Panayiotou explains, their efforts have mostly fallen flat due to a lack of adaptability. “They’re making them in the same fashion with the same ingredients as back home,” he says. “We’re going to use the best quality ingredients we can find and classic cooking techniques, and we’re going to keep it accessible while still inventing flavors and pulling from the cultures that are influencing trends.” Pressed to name a signature pie, Panayiotou cites the English-style steak & stout pie, made with beef shoulder braised in a Guinness sauce with caramelized onion, mushrooms, fresh rosemary and fresh thyme. But for a more cutting-edge option, there’s the chicken tikka masala pie.

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“We fire roast the chicken before we dice it and put it into the sauce, which gives it a more exciting flavor profile,” he explains. “It’s brought in a whole new segment of clientele that wasn’t excited by the traditional British flavors.” At The Gage in Chicago, Executive Chef Chris Gawronski’s seasonal pigeon pie is a local classic, drawing inspiration from the Cornish-style pasties he grew up eating in Michigan. “The pigeon pie is a combination of my love of the pies of my childhood as well as my love of squab done in a more refined way,” Gawronski explains. “It’s made of a sausage forcemeat that includes squab and duck and is inlayed with squab breast and foie gras. All that is then enveloped in a savory pastry dough and decorated before it is baked.” The softball-sized pie is served with cognac mustard, squab jus liè and watercress. If that isn’t luxe enough, he has one more trick to make it memorable. “When I’m feeling inspired, I love to stuff the pies with an addition of madeira-braised winter truffle,” he says. “It’s perfect for the cold weather.” n

BREAKFAST QUICHE Recipe provided by MARKON Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

¼ lb

Butter, softened

¼C

Flour, plus more to flour surface

1 tsp

Salt

1 tsp

Sugar

3 tsp

Ice water

Large Eggs

¼C

Heavy Cream

½C

Cooked Spinach, chopped

¼C

Yellow Onions, diced

Roma Tomatoes, diced

3 tbsp

Parmesan Cheese, grated

1 tsp

Salt

¼ tsp

Pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

In mixer, blend butter and slowly add flour, salt, and sugar until mixture comes together; add ice water and mix untill dough forms a ball. Refrigerate in plastic wrap for one hour. Roll out on a lightly floured surface; bake on half-sheet tray at 350 F for five minutes to seven minutes. Cool.

FIND THESE RECIPES ONLINE AT: RFSDELIVERS.COM/RESTAURANT-INC/RECIPES

Bite-Size Empanadas Recipe provided by MARKON Servings: 4 (three each) INGREDIENTS

1 sheet Pastry Dough, cut into 12/2-inch rounds 4 oz

Ground Beef, cooked

½C

Butternut Squash, peeled and cut into small squares

¼C

Red & Yellow Bell Peppers, roasted & chopped

½C

Corn

¼C

Cilantro, chopped

Salt & Pepper, to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

Mix beef, squash, peppers, corn and cilantro in a bowl; season with salt and pepper. Fold each pastry round in half and place a small amount of filling in center. Seal and bake at 375 F for 15 minutes to 20 minutes (until browned). Serve with your choice of dipping sauce.

Combine eggs, cream, spinach, onion, tomatoes, cheese, salt, and pepper; mix well. Pour over cooled dough ¾ to the top of sheet pan. Bake at 350 F for approximately 10 minutes (or until eggs are solid when pan is shaken). Remove from oven, punch out with cutter; serve immediately.

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Cookies for a Sweet Holiday Use cookies to spruce up the holidays … and your pastry sales. by Ari Bendersky

Every holiday has its signature dessert, and while some like a bûche de noël, let’s be honest: Who doesn’t want a plate or bag of holiday cookies? When it comes to celebrating the winter holidays, people want to gather with friends and family and dessert. Cookies, in particular, allow people to connect to happy holiday memories. “We have the fun of nostalgia and have an opportunity to play with that to bring people back to their childhood and own family tradition,” says Leigh Omilinsky, executive pastry chef of Boka Restaurant Group’s Bellemore, Swift & Sons and Cold Storage. “Everybody loves cookies.” Swift & Sons has a chocolate trolley rolling through the dining room, enticing customers with sweets throughout the year and will add cookies, like Snickerdoodles, for the holidays. Omilinsky also loves packaging sweets for gifting and suggests looking to Pinterest or Bags & Bows, a retail packaging company, for inspiration. Stacy Begin, owner of Portland, Maine, bakery Two Fat Cats, adds that packaging should not only look pretty, but also helpful. “It should have a nice logo on it and also the ingredient list,” Begin says.

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“That’s so important with dietary restrictions and allergens.” Begin plays around with winter flavors, like adding citrus, cinnamon or coffee granules, to elevate a possibly bland sugar cookie. She also adds jams— blueberry, apricot, apple butter—to macaroons for more flavor. As for getting people to buy more, Begin says to give tempt with a taste. “Having mini cookies by the host stand or with the check and a note that says, ‘Take these home with you,’ would be nice,” she suggests. Chicago’s Petit Margeaux goes one step further in sending people home with sweets. They offer holiday cookie decorating kits with two sugar cookies, mini bags of icing and a bag of sprinkles. “Some of my favorite memories involve my family making holiday sugar cookies and decorating them with all the candies you can imagine,” says Petit Margeaux pastry chef Ashley Torto. “It’s a fun, interactive way to help people create memories.” And that is certainly sweet. n

e k o P n Salmo Cubes As a currently trending item,

Salmon Poke

works well in many restaurants including catering, food trucks, bar & grill, fast-casual, sushi and more!

Hidden Bay® Salmon Poke Cubes [RFS# CP366] over Spicy Udon Noodles

To ensure consistency in size and thickness, each cube is laser cut to 1.5x1.5 cm.

Hidden Bay® is a registered trademark of Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C.

To ensure consistent quality, taste and texture, our salmon poke cubes are vacuum packed into 1 lb. bags.

Hidden Bay® Salmon Poke Cubes are produced from Chliean Atlantic salmon that has been farm raised in the pristine, cold waters of the Patagonian region.

FROM THE KITCHEN

Vegetable Ramen Recipe courtesy of MARKON Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

32 oz

Vegetable ramen stock (made with garlic, ginger, mushrooms, and kombu)

16 oz

Ramen noodles

Green Onions, chopped

Kobocha squash, roasted

fried tofu squares

2/3 C

Zucchini, chopped and roasted

Baby bok choy, sliced in half and seared

¼C

Jalapeño chile peppers, sliced and roasted

¼C

Lotus root, seared

1 tbsp

gochujang (Korean spice paste)

½C

nori (dried seaweed), cut into strips

Garlic flowers, for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

Fill four serving bowls with equal portions of stock and boiled noodles. Top with equal portions of remaining ingredients. Garnish with garlic flowers (optional).

BONELESS SHORT RIB SHEPHERD’S PIE Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS

3 lbs

Mashed Potatoes

Gruyère cheese, shredded

2 lb

Fully Cooked Boneless Beef Short Ribs

2 tbsp

All-purpose Flour

3 tbsp

Olive Oil

Diced Onions

Diced Carrots

Sliced Celery, diced

14.5 oz Fire Roasted diced tomatoes, undrained 2 tbsp

Soy Sauce

1 clove Garlic, finely chopped 1 tbsp

chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) Parsley

Salt & pepper to Taste

INSTRUCTIONS

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Prepare potatoes according to instructions. Stir in cheese. Set aside. Heat oven to 425 F. Spray 13x9-inch (3-quart) glass baking dish with cooking spray. Toss beef with flour, 1 ½ teaspoons salt and the pepper. In 12-inch skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Re-heat meat according to instructions, then spread in baking dish in single layer. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to skillet. Add onions, carrot and celery; cook 5 minutes to 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown. Stir in tomatoes, soy sauce and garlic; cook 3 minutes to 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until liquid evaporates. Spread evenly over beef in baking dish. Spoon potato mixture over vegetable mixture; spread evenly. Bake uncovered 25 minutes to 30 minutes or until top of potatoes are crispy. Top with parsley.

Couscous and Beets Salad in a Roasted Honey Nut Squash Yvette Marie Hirang | Sales Consultant, Reinhart La Crosse Division Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

whole Honey Nut Squash

Olive Oil

Salt and Pepper

2 tsp

Nutmeg

Couscous, cooked and cooled

Roasted Beets, small diced

Cucumber, small diced

2 tbsp

Parsley, chopped

1 tbsp

Mint, chopped

Italian Dressing

1 tsp

Salt

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut squash in half and scoop out seeds. Drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Roast in oven for 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Mix rest of the ingredients and fill honey nut squash cavity.

Roast Golden Beets, Apples, Manchego Cheese Salad Jeff Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS

1 Each

Gold Baby Beet peeled 1â&#x20AC;?, chopped

1 oz

Manchengo

1/2 Each Fuji apple, sliced thin 2 oz

Baby Arugula

1/2 oz

Honey Maple walnut halves

1 oz

Apple Cider vinaigrette dressing

5 Each Belgium endive INSTRUCTIONS

Peel and chop beet. Toss in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast until tender, remove and cool. In a bowl, combine arugula, manchego cheese, apples, beets and vinaigrette. Toss. Place endive leaves on chilled plate. Place salad mixture in center and top with walnuts.

FALL 2019 | 55

FROM THE KITCHEN

The Jewish Deli Reincarnated Mindy Kolof Throughout its early 20th century heyday, the Jewish deli was a meeting place for showbiz kings and kingmakers, new immigrants and second-generation Americans, with kosher venues for the observant and New York-style for everyone else. But times and tastes change and less than a century later the Jewish deli seemed in danger of disappearing forever.

“ The reports of my death have been exaggerated.”

- Mark Twain 56 | RESTAURANT INC

The General Muir Coffee Counter

One after another, legendary names closed their doors: Rascal House, The Bagel, even Carnegie Deli. But for those who still cherish a pastrami sandwich the size of your head or a bagel and a shmear, all is not lost. A Chicago icon and a James Beard semifinalist in Atlanta are among hundreds across the country preserving the Jewish deli for a new generation. For long-time patrons at Chicago’s Manny’s Deli, the recent remodel is stunning: brighter, airier, with a gleaming new deli to display its famed meats. It’s all part of the plan, says Ken Raskin, who’s proudly entrusted son Danny with the ambitious goal of taking Manny’s to the “next level.” A fourth generation Raskin, Danny is uniquely equipped to succeed, filtering a lifelong appreciation of a cherished cuisine through a keen millennial perspective. His philosophy— “We’re giving customers what they want rather than what we want to give them”—has already inspired change. Better optics for the Instagram generation? See the opened-up cafeteria line and the new deli. Looking for a lighter meal? A “half sandwich and soup” is now on the menu. Want to connect with Manny’s on social media? There’s an engaged crew on Twitter and Instagram. Prefer weekend dining? Sunday hours have been added for the first time in Manny’s over 75-year history.

The General Muir Dining Room

FALL 2019 | 57

The biggest challenge: educating a new generation as to why the nine-ounce, highest-quality corned beef sandwich is worth every penny of its double-digit price. For customers accustomed to a $7 Subway special, it can be an uphill battle, admit the Raskins, even if Manny’s sandwich reliably provides enough for several additional meals. “The customer who leaves here smiling gets it,” says Ken Raskin. In Atlanta, the almost mystical appeal of the Jewish deli from his childhood pulled chef Todd Ginsberg off the fine-dining track to follow a completely different path by opening The General Muir in 2013. “Before my son was born, my father suggested opening a deli,” says Ginsberg. “My grandparents had owned a deli about 75 years ago in New Jersey and his suggestion stuck with me. I knew what I wanted to do: a modern American restaurant that is a loving tribute to the New York deli.” His deep respect for the cuisine and endless creativity have earned him numerous honors, including two nods as a James Beard semifinalist and a fanatically loyal following. From the start, breads and meats were made in-house. Ginsberg smartly tapped into Atlanta’s bustling brunch scene by offering reinvented classics like pastrami poutine, attracting large groups of diners not familiar with deli cuisine. Most important, he says, is the opportunity to share the powerful role of food in Jewish culture. 

The Chazzer

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Chef Todd Ginsberg

e th n o s Oyster ll e h S f l Ha Oysters on the Half Shell

are a versatile shellfish with a delicious flavor that stands on its own, but also works well with a wide variety of flavor profiles, condiments and accompaniments.

Tabasco Butter Grilled Hidden Bay® Oysters [RFS# CB550]

You’ll find oysters popping up on beverage menus at many bar and grill concepts with the increasing popularity of Oyster Shooters and Oyster Cocktails.

Hidden Bay® is a registered trademark of Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C.

Vacuum skin tray packaging allows easy thawing and less labor than traditional layer packs or trays. Additionally, thawing upside-down in the vac-packed tray allows oysters to thaw in their own natural liquor.

Patented “Frozen Live” technology yields oysters with 100% retention of their natural shape and juices after thawing, and reduces Vibrio Vulnificus (bacteria that occur naturally in coastal waters where oysters grow) to non-detectable levels.

FROM THE KITCHEN

FRENCH

twist Victor Ozols

The

mention

French

food

typically

evokes

images

decadent

dishes and fussy restaurants, but like any style of cooking, it has evolved with the times. Today’s chefs apply classic techniques to modern ingredients, creating recipes that are at once familiar and forward looking. Here, three chefs discuss these traditions and their renditions, bringing the original haute cuisine into the 21st century. “People should stop thinking that French food is super heavy,” says Christophe Bellanca, corporate executive chef of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, which has 12 worldwide locations. “When I started cooking in 1986, we used a lot of butter and cream, but now, here in the U.S., I remove most of it.” He cited his duck à l’orange as an example of a traditionally rich dish that benefits from a lighter treatment. “I cannot do duck à l’orange with a super-sweet sauce, so I use classic French technique and adapt it for 2019,” Bellanca explains. “I poach the duck first for one minute, put some spice on it, and let it dry for four days in the fridge, so you don’t have too much fat on the skin.” Rather than being a concession to today’s healthfocused lifestyles, lighter recipes do a better job of showcasing the ingredients, Bellanca says. “I make a cold zucchini velouté, removing the butter and cream, and it tastes better because it’s more focused on the vegetable,” he adds.

“But it’s the idea of

Regional preferences elevate traditional recipes at Le Chateau in La Crosse, Wis., where chef/owner Tim Ewers creates a menu that’s at once classic and approachable. Instead of crunchy bread,

his twist on Tournedos Rossini uses a house-made potato cake to absorb the drippings from beef tenderloin and foie gras. “The potato cake is utilized the same way, but we’ve modified it since the Midwest is known for steak and potatoes,” he explains. “It’s a more elegant dish because a slice of bread underneath the meat just doesn’t give it that extra touch.” At Chicago’s Margeaux Brasserie, Executive Chef Greg Biggers injects interactivity into the dining experience. “One dish that gets wows is our lobster gnocchi,” he says. “We make Parisian-style gnocchi using pâte à choux—the classic pastry dough—as a base rather than potato.” It’s served in a small copper pot with poached Maine lobster and topped with a savory almond wheel cracker. Adding to the drama, a vadouvan curry sauce is poured tableside over the cracker, which diners then crack and stir into the gnocchi underneath. “The modern touches really make it an interactive dish,” says Biggers.

FALL 2019 | 61

FROM THE KITCHEN

PRESERVING

LEGACY Ari Bendersky

From Korean to Japanese to Thai, Asian cuisine continues to create strong inroads into mainstream cooking, influencing many chefs whipping up a variety of fare, while also perfecting traditional dishes. Much of that is often from first-generation Asian Americans cooking the food they grew up eating and taking inspiration from food they learned to cook while watching older relatives in their home kitchens. “As a kid, we would experiment in the kitchen,” recalls Edward Kim, chef/owner of Chicago’s Mott St. and Mini Mott. “We were always exposed to food from grandma’s cooking. My uncle in Korea was a baker. There was a lot of exposure and food was super important.” Kim eventually studied at Le Cordon Bleu and trained under celebrated chefs before returning home to Chicago to open Ruxbin, an intimate (now closed) new American bistro heavily influenced by French technique and Asian flavors. He then opened Mott St., where he creates elevated Asian street food with a heavy focus on Korean flavors using local ingredients.

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“But it’s the idea of

cooking with that spirit versus trying to cook to those recipes verbatim.” - Edward Kim

Chef/owner of Chicago’s Mott ST. & Mini Mott

“If you’re making Korean food in Chicago, you’re limited by the ingredients you have,” Kim admits. “But it’s the idea of cooking with that spirit versus trying to cook to those recipes verbatim.” John Ng, who moved with his family from Hong Kong to Northern California as a teenager, started cooking with his mother and grandmother and would prepare meals for his family. He and his wife, Lina Goh, now live in Minneapolis and own the popular Japanese restaurant Zen Box Izakaya. The menu comprises items like tonkatsu, poke, gyoza and other Japanese favorites, but ramen is the star—and Ng connects that back to his childhood in Hong Kong. “Ramen was originally passed on from China to Japan a long time ago,” Ng explains. “In Hong Kong, we eat a lot of noodle dishes. I started creating that connection between Chinese and Japanese cooking in that one dish.” St. Louis doesn’t have a large Korean community, but that didn’t stop David Choi from first launching his Seoul Taco food truck, selling Mexican-styled street food with Korean ingredients, and eventually opening restaurants around St. Louis and Chicago. He grew up eating Korean food, generally prepared by his grandmother, who taught him many traditional techniques. “There’s a level of respect there,” Choi says. “It’s taking your time, using quality ingredients and not taking any shortcuts. My grandmother would playfully smack me if I used a substitute that wasn’t up to her standards.” It’s safe to assume no matter what you’re cooking, always listen to your grandmother. She’s usually right. 

FALL 2019 | 63

FROM THE KITCHEN

Feasting on the Fishes Create a magical Christmas Eve dinner based on an Italian tradition Ari Bendersky

Italian families in the United States and in some parts of the Old World gather the night before Christmas to feast. Due to the need to abstain from meat ahead of the holy day, families have turned to seafood for their big family celebration on Christmas Eve. Over the years, restaurants started offering their own Feast of the Seven Fishes.

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The Feast, or La Vigilia as it is traditionally called in southern Italy where it is said to have originated, generally features seven dishes made from a variety of seafood. The Feast gives chefs an opportunity to offer guests a place to enjoy this tradition, regardless if their restaurant is Italian or another cuisine. “It’s a way to embrace what you do and expand upon your fish menu,” says Bill Telepan, executive chef of seafood-focused Oceana in New York. “Have fun with it and go outside the box and try some new things you wouldn’t normally do.” Telepan keeps things seasonal for his annual Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner. Past menus have included crispy brandade with parsley root and parsley puree; egg fettuccine with bay scallops, uni and scallion; and grilled octopus and sepia with garlic red chili oil and broccoli rabe salad. “It’s a really nice thing to offer: a tasting menu of fish dishes we create for the day,” Telepan adds. At Chicago’s Spiaggia, Executive Chef Joe Flamm introduced his family’s longstanding tradition to the restaurant in 2014. It grew from 20 people the first year into two full seatings with dozens of guests. “It has become one of the hottest events for us during the year,” Flamm says. “It’s communal, just like being with family. It’s really fun and somewhat rambunctious, which I really love.” The dinner costs $75 a person with a $25 optional wine pairing and the menu has featured dishes like crudo di mare with raw oysters and Nantucket Bay scallops; spaghetti alle vongole with clams and Sardinian bottarga; and fried smelts. “That’s quintessential Midwestern food,” Flamm says. “The most fun for us is doing dishes that represent where we come from and speak to us. They don’t have to be traditional. You make it your own.” Instead of hosting the dinner on Christmas Eve, Flamm and his team hold it within the few days before. Why? “We close the restaurant to do Feast of the Seven Fishes with our own families.” And isn’t that what the holidays should be about? 

“It’s a really nice thing to offer: a tasting menu of fish dishes we create for the day.”

- Bill Telepan

Executive Chef of Oceana

FALL 2019 | 65

FROM THE KITCHEN

My Heritage: The Latke Latkes are a favorite Hanukkah food—at homes and restaurants. Ari Bendersky 66 | RESTAURANT INC

Ask anyone raised in a Jewish home about favorite memories of Hanukkah and many will say: latkes. These fried potato pancakes hail from Eastern Europe and some say date back as far as Biblical times. They are inexpensive and generally comprise potatoes, onion, egg and salt, fried in oil and topped with applesauce or sour cream. Hanukkah wouldn’t be the same without them. Whether thick and fluffy or thin and crispy, latkes pay homage to the story of Hanukkah when the Maccabees, Jewish rebels, reclaimed Jerusalem and its holy temple from oppressive tyrants. Legend says they only had enough oil in their lamp to cleanse and rededicate the temple for one night, but the light burned strong for eight nights, hence why we Jews light candles for eight nights during the holiday and use oil to make our beloved latkes. “For a lot of Jewish people, religious or not, the three big things of Hanukkah are latkes, presents and lighting the Hanukkiah,” says Zach Engel, chef/owner of Galit in Chicago. Engel, who opened Galit in spring 2019, says for his first Hanukkah at the restaurant he may veer from the traditional and make largeformat latkes like Duchess potatoes and cut off slices. He uses corn starch instead of flour to make them gluten free and folds whipped egg white into the batter. On the side? Labneh, house-made sour cream and applesauce crafted from local apples.

“I want to evoke a longing memory without making it too cheffy.”

- Zach Engel

Chef & Owner of Galit

“For me,” he adds, “I want to evoke a longing memory without making it too cheffy.” In New Orleans, Caitlin Carney and Marcus Jacobs’ Marjie’s Grill serves Southern-styled cuisine with an Asian influence. To tap into their Northern Jewish heritage in a town with a “relatively underserved Jewish community,” according to Jacobs, they introduced a Hanukkah-themed week, offering different latkes each night during the Festival of Lights: traditional, but also sweet potato; everything bagel; scallion pancake; and Korean seafood with shrimp, squid, oysters and kimchi. They also light a menorah each night, welcoming any and all from the community. “People will bring their kids who may have never seen that with the prayers,” Carney says. “It allows people who aren’t Jewish to partake.” At Brad Rubin’s Eleven City Diner in Chicago and his newer deli in Los Angeles, he serves old and new school latkes, adding a modern twist. He continues a tradition started by his grandmother, who, before she passed at 97, was “all smiles,” Rubin says, eating latkes at his restaurant. “The memories of my grandmother and the goingson in her kitchen are still very much in my heart and found throughout my restaurants,” Rubin adds lovingly. “It was a dance watching her cook in that tiny space. Whatever the occasion, she was making latkes. The entire house smelled like her latkes. It was most definitely an overpowering scent. I sat in the chair at the table and watched. It was just my thing.” And now people across the country get to create similar memories. Happy Hanukkah! 

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the mission is the menu. Chairman’s Reserve Prime Pork delivers. ®

Whether creating fusions or highlighting a cuisine’s intricacies, versatility is crucial. Chairman’s Reserve® Prime Pork provides that adaptability while being the highest quality pork offering found at Reinhart Foodservice®. Strict quality standards and unmatched service mean there’s a world of difference between Chairman’s Reserve Prime Pork and its competitors.

the pinnacle of quality The uncommon quality of Chairman’s Reserve Prime Pork turns the everyday into the outstanding.

• pH-selected for our most tender, juicy and flavorful pork

• Proven to be 25% more tender than other leading brands of pork without added solution

• Discerningly chosen cuts, hand-selected and hand-trimmed

• Optimal marbling scores ranging from 3-5

• All natural, minimally processed with no artificial ingredients

• Color scores ranging from 4-5

To elevate your menu with Chairman’s Reserve Prime Pork, contact your Reinhart Sales Consultant today.

FALL 2019 | 69

FROM THE KITCHEN

Pennsylvanian Dutch Traditions Worth Borrowing Easy-to-cook food, mindful ingredients and a heritage of hospitality. Lena Katz Pennsylvaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rural culinary traditions are immediately associated with German and Dutch settlers. The dishes that come to mind are hearty, winterwarming ones like sauerbraten, brown-butter noodles and schnitzel. To some extent, this is accurate. The Pennsylvania culinary community, however, wants everyone to know that while its staples may be humble, the richness of its farmlands and diversity of produce is on par with anywhere in the country.

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“Pennsylvania always has been and still is very agriculturally rich. Food traditions come right from the land,” says Carrie Havranek, author of “Tasting Pennsylvania: Favorite Recipes from the Keystone State.” Lancaster, famous as the heart of Amish country, is also nicknamed “Garden Spot of America” due to the importance of farming. Lancaster Central Market is the oldest, continuously operating indoor farmers market in the country. But many other parts of rural Pennsylvania are farmlands. Easton Farmers Market, located in Havranek’s hometown, is the oldest, continuously operating open-air market. It’s been open since 1752. “Anywhere you go,” continues Havranek, “there’s proximity to a farm.” In the fall and early winter, there’s an abundance of pumpkins and squash, leafy greens and root veggies, mushrooms and shelling beans. Local restaurateurs are big on creamy vegetables soups and heirloom grains on fall menus, as well as slow-cooked, braised, large-format dishes Havranek categorizes as “easy food.” Many of these roasts and casseroles were originally served to hardworking farmhands, but now bring comfort to all.

elevates even the simplest traditional recipes to special occasion classics at fine dining restaurants—those in big cities like Pittsburgh and Philadelphia, as well as those where the ambience is woodsy and peaceful. At the historic Lodge at Woodloch, the menu of signature dishes is extensive enough to warrant a cookbook—with recipes ranging from Old Country traditional into the realm of spa cuisine. “Woodloch is rich with history and steeped in tradition. The founding family of Woodloch was of German heritage, which influenced dishes early,” says chef George Schmidt. “We try to keep our eyes on the future of cuisine and dietary restrictions, but remain with one foot in the past to keep traditions alive.” Pennsylvania’s restaurateurs understand well that classic dishes achieve that status because people don’t tire of them. Though restaurants all over the state are sourcing mindfully and plating beautifully, most diners never get tired of a still-warm-from-the-oven Amish soft pretzel or a simple Pittsburgh Salad with homemade dressing. 

The state’s abundance of beautiful, locally grown food

FALL 2019 | 71

FROM THE KITCHEN

Take Your Kids’ Menu Global Entice developing palates with international fare that’s sometimes interactive. Erica Bethe Levin When planning the kids’ section of your menu, don’t underestimate their palates. Many children are well beyond buttered pastas and chicken nuggets. It’s time to put some thought into it. One way of doing so is to tailor heritage cuisine to accommodate little ones’ burgeoning taste buds. “Kids have a real influence on where families dine, so taking their dining experience into consideration is key,” says John Mountford, COO of Chuy’s, a 36-yearold Tex-Mex chain with more than 100 locations. “We offer children an array of made-fromscratch, traditional items, as well as authentic family recipes from south Texas, New Mexico and Mexican border towns.” It’s not just authentic food offered at Chuy’s; they also have dough balls, straight from the comal where tortillas are hand-rolled daily, to keep restless kids busy. Kona Grill, a “kitchen, sushi and cocktails” chain with more than 20 locations, also believes in the power of offering innovative meals to kids, while providing them with oneof-a-kind experiences. “Younger guests need to be treated seriously. Kids get their dietary habits from their parents, so it is important to accommodate their desire to try the same items their parents enjoy,” explains Donovan Swanson, marketing specialist for Kona Grill. “Not only do

72 | RESTAURANT INC

we offer a greater variety of options, but the interactive component of building their own bento box really supports fun for everyone.” Speaking of fun-meets-heritage, Wow Bao, an Asian fastcasual chain headquartered in Chicago, recently launched “Lil’ Bunz Meal,” which includes jasmine rice, two mini teriyaki chicken bao, one ginger chicken pot-sticker and a baby carrot. It’s packaged in the shape of a smiley face for kids under 10. It certainly makes sense to market these kids’ offerings. “We want to showcase that on top of offering a great happy hour and adult dining, we’re also very family friendly,” says Swanson. “By marketing Kona’s extensive kids’ menu, we broaden our audience, attracting more diners in that family segment.” Mountford says it best: “We choose to take a real focus on our children diners; if the kids are having a great experience, so are their parents.”

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Younger guests need to be treated seriously.â&#x20AC;? - Donovan Swanson Marketing Specialist at Kona Grill

FALL 2019 | 73

FROM THE KITCHEN

ROASTED PUMPKIN, ONION, ROSEMARY WONTONS Jeff Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS

4 ea

wonton wrappers

2 oz

pumpkin

¼ oz

extra virgin olive oil

1 oz

yellow onion, diced

1/8 oz

rosemary, fresh, chopped and diced

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat olive oil and add rosemary. Once fragrant, add onion and pumpkin. Remove from heat. and allow to cool. Take wontons, place 1/4 of pumpkin mix in center. Dampen edge of wrapper with water and fold into a triangle. Seal edges.

BRAISED VENISON CASSOULET Jeff Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS

8 oz

venison shoulder, diced

3 oz

duck sausage

3 oz

hickory-smoked bacon

2 oz

white onion, peeled

2 oz

baby carrot, peeled and chopped

2 oz

celery, chopped

1 lb

beef broth

14 oz

white kidney beans

½ oz

garlic, chopped

3 oz

bread crumbs

1/8 oz

thyme, fresh

1/8 oz

bay leaves, add to cheese cloth

1/8

parsley, fresh

1/8

rosemary, fresh

INSTRUCTIONS

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Heat oven to 350 F. Place heavy walled pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Cook bacon, then remove. Brown sausage, then remove. Take cubed venison and toss in flour. Add to pot and brown, then remove. Add garlic, onions, carrots and celery. Brown, then add stock and bouquet garni. (Parsley, rosemary, bay leaf and thyme wrapped in cheesecloth and tied) Stir, then add beans, bacon, sausage and venison. Top with fresh bread crumbs. Place in oven and bake for approximately 1 hour. Remove bouquet garni and serve.

Korean Seafood Latke Marcus Jacobs | Division Chef, Reinhart New Orleans Division Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

Russet potatoes

large yellow onion

eggs

1/2 C

flour

kimchi

1 tsp

baking powder

3 tsp

salt

1 tsp

black pepper

Raw peeled shrimp, squid tentacles, oysters

schmaltz or bacon fat for frying

Optional: lettuce, herbs and soy sauce INSTRUCTIONS

Peel the potatoes and onion. Grate potatoes and onion on a hand a grater and toss with the salt. Using a cheese cloth or clean linen towel, squeeze as much water as you can out of the potato-onion mix. In a large bowl, add flour, pepper and baking powder; mix thoroughly. Whisk the eggs together in separate bowl and add raw peeled shrimp, squid tentacles, oysters and kimchi. Fold mixture into the potato-flour mixture. Heat enough schmaltz (or for a delicious, but non-kosher option: bacon fat) to be about ½ inch deep in a large cast iron skillet until it begins to simmer, but doesn’t smoke. Work in batches to not overcrowd the skillet and scoop out about 3 tablespoons latke batter per pancake. Fry for about 4 minutes on each side until golden brown and delicious.Transfer finished latkes to a resting rack or a paper towel lined plate and finish frying the rest. Serve immediately or keep in a warm over until ready to eat. Serve with lettuce and herbs to make wraps; provide soy for dipping.

CHIA BERRY BREAKFAST PUDDING Recipe provided by MARKON Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

4 C low fat vanilla almond milk ½ C Chia seeds ½ C honey For garnish—top pudding with any/all of the following: almonds, caramelized banana slice, chia seeds, dragon fruit, flax seeds, blackberries, blueberries, grapes, or pistachios. INSTRUCTIONS

Combine milk, chia seeds, and honey in large mixing bowl. Cover and allow to sit overnight until it achieves pudding consistency. Divide pudding into four equal portions; top with your choice of healthy garnishes.

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Don’t Roll the Dice with Your Casino Buffet Menu These ‘seven tenets’ by experts should help you create an experience your guests will remember. David Salvi

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In between slots and busted blackjack hands, hungry casino-goers claw for the house’s culinary options. The casino’s culinary staple—the buffet—must be ready for influx, a taxing 24-hour service time, culinary trends and differentiation for that captive audience. The key? Doing a buffet right. But what does that mean? We spoke with industry veterans David Crabtree, executive chef at Island View Casino in Gulfport, Miss., and Demetrio “Chef D” Marquez, a corporate executive chef with Reinhart, for their insights. With that, we present the “seven tenets of (successful) casino culinary operations.” If you’re in the kitchen of a casino or serve regular buffets, this is for you.

Know Thy Customer

Know Thy Forecast

Chef Crabtree tailors his buffet to his customer base, which is an older, Southern crowd looking for Creole and Cajun flavor profiles. He leaves comment cards and conducts monthly guest surveys, staying on top of what the customer wants.

Intel is crucial. Rising food costs, wasted inventory and service issues can kill your bottom line. Chef D suggests buddying up with the hotel or resort operations director. Know room occupancy, what groups or conferences are in town, and what festivals or events are happening in the community.

Honor Seasonality

Feature Action Stations

Part of a buffet’s business rub is controlling cost and waste. Being specific to seasons, like buying squash in the summer vs. the winter, can help keep costs down and prompt creative menu ideas—not to mention freshness.

Carved prime rib or flank steak. Brick-oven, handtossed pizzas at buffet side. A seafood buffet section. Omelet station. Quality and trendy food presented intimately to the customer will add immediate value to your buffet. Figure out what makes sense to your operation.

Remember Presentation

Bring Creative Sweetness

When trying to offer higher quality foods, use micro pans (smaller, which keeps food fresh), avoid fried as it tends to “age” poorly under heat lamps and garnish creatively. Chef Crabtree adds tri-colored tortillas across the top of fish dishes.

Offering something that looks good and tastes good is always a hit. People love sweets. Dessert innovations allow for epic additions to buffets— like a chocolate fondue fountain with fresh fruits and sweet for dipping.

Work with Thy Distributor! Holding hands with your distributor—as Chef D highly recommends—can help with all the above. As a culinary thought partner, operators can focus on their guests and operations, while a distributor partner can help with forecasting, food costs, seasonality and back-of-house innovations. 

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S{ hrimp!

America’s Favorite Seafood

SHRIMP IS ON

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4 ½ tsp dried coriander 1 tsp cumin ½ tsp turmeric ¼ tsp smoked paprika ¼ tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp Salt 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp lemon juice Hidden Bay® Phosphate-Free Shrimp, peeled, tail-on Preheat grill to Medium heat and lightly oil the surface. In a small bowl mix together coriander, cumin, turmeric, smoked paprika, cayenne pepper, salt, olive oil, and lemon juice. Pour spice mix over the shrimp and coat evenly. Let shrimp marinate in the spices for a minimum of 15 minutes in the refrigerator or up to 3 hours. When ready to grill, skewer the shrimp and place over direct heat. Grill shrimp for 2—3 minutes per side and serve with a savory side of couscous.

53% of U.S.

consumers are interested in trying global seafood items, so this could be the perfect time to try some international ideas on your menu. Source: Datassentials Menu Trends

Moroccan Style Shrimp in Sauce

RESPONSIBLY SOURCED

Hidden Bay® Phosphate-Free Shrimp, peeled, tail-off 3 garlic cloves, sliced 1 28 oz can crushed tomatoes 1 sweet onion, halved and sliced 1 small zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced 1 t ground cumin ½ t ground ginger 1 t paprika ½ t ground turmeric 1 t salt 2 t honey 4 T chopped cilantro 1 t. chopped mint In a wide skillet add garlic, tomatoes, shrimp, onion, zucchini, cumin, ginger, paprika, turmeric, and salt. Stir well, cover and sauté over medium low heat for 30 minutes. Once gently bubbling turn off heat and keep covered to continue cooking for 5 more minutes. Garnish with the herbs and drizzle it with honey before serving.

Drive more profit and sell more seafood. rfsdelivers.com

BEHIND THE BAR

Pour it On! Hearty Fall Dishes Ari Bendersky When autumn hits, chefs move away from fresh, bright summer ingredients and head toward heartier fare as diners bundle up for colder weather. Here, we tap two beverage experts—Andrew Volk, owner of Little Giant and Portland Hunt + Alpine Club in Portland, Maine, and Michael Corcoran, sommelier at Peppervine in Charlotte, N.C.—to offer pairing tips for some decadently rich fall dishes. 80 | RESTAURANT INC

MICHAEL CORCORAN

ANDREW VOLK

Sommelier at Peppervine

Owner of Little Giant & Portland Hunt + Alpine Club

Short rib pot pie with rosemary, thyme and pearl onions in a buttery crust Corcoran: I’m thinking I wanted something peppery with those herbs, like syrah from Rim Rock Vineyard California. It’s explosive with dark fruit, olive tapenade, bacon fat, pepper and smoke. This would be great with the pastry, which would become more peppery and smokier.

Volk: To me, that screams hard, wild cider. The guys at Shacksbury in Vermont are doing great things. The herbs and butter will give richness that the cider will cut through. You can use anything dry and not too funky.

Roasted chicken with Brussels sprouts, butternut squash, carrots and baby red potatoes with dried herbs Corcoran: Meursault is big shouldered and round. The savoriness can stand up to the Brussels sprouts and nuttiness that borders on tropical fruit.

Volk: Classic gamay noir, [with] maybe a little chill on it. It has more bramble, depth and dryness than a pinot, and this is a perfect pairing. The chicken isn’t too fatty and doesn’t need a big red wine. The dried herbs go well with the mellow fruit of the gamay noir.

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Panko-topped mac and cheese made with parmesan, fontina, white cheddar and gruyere Corcoran: Grower Champagne. The bubbles cut through the richness, but has some fruit. You’ll get rich, ripe orchard fruit, but get the bready, biscuit cheesy notes with bubbles and acid to refresh the palate.

Volk: This is [perfect with] a hazy New England IPA with body, but it is still fresh and luscious. Fruit and acid will cut through and the grapefruit notes match with the mac and cheese.

Hearty New England clam chowder Corcoran: I’d want to contrast this with sharp, dry acidity and some effervescence, like a Vinho Verde. Maybe an albariño. That would contrast nicely with the sweetness of the clam meat and cut through the creamy onion.

Volk: Our Out of Sight cocktail at Little Giant has Singani 63 brandy, ginger syrup, lime, a splash of Campari and soda. It’s a bit zippy and floral, which balances out the richness of the chowder and adds a saline component and a refreshing balance.

Pumpkin pie topped with fresh whipped cream Corcoran: There’s no other acceptable answer for this than coffee. Add some cream and sugar if you want, but coffee is just what goes with pumpkin pie and you’re wrong if you say otherwise.

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Volk: Madeira. It has a nutty quality that balances with the spices of pumpkin pie. It has a little heat and makes you want to take another sip, but cuts through any of the richness of any good pumpkin pie.

BEHIND THE BAR

Offering guests fabulous bubbly toasts that won’t break their bank Jeffrey Ward A bottle of high-end bubbles parked tableside signifies high stylin’ during the holiday season. Not only is Champagne a celebration unto itself, but popping those baller vintages is a great revenue stream that can put year-end beverage sales well above forecast. Due to circumstances that range from guest budget concerns to a general desire to consume less alcohol, however, your bar staff should always find innovative ways to ensure guests still have that perfect toast.

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New York’s Bâtard offers spritzers that complement the overall dining experience, such as the “Winter Winter Spritz,” made with cardamaro, Wild Moon chai spice liqueur, pear, ginger, tiki bitters and sparkling wine. “They are very popular with guests due to lower alcohol content, delicious seasonal ingredients and an affordable price point,” says Bâtard bartender Kelly O’Connor. When building a new sparkler, choosing the right wine is not only based on taste, but also cost effectiveness. “Bâtard’s wine program mainly focuses on the wine region of Burgundy, so we use a Crémant de Bourgogne as our go-to in these aperitif-style cocktails,” continues O’Connor. “It’s a delicious, approachable and affordable wine that is light, fresh, crisp and mixes well with other ingredients while still maintaining a bubbly presence.” What else goes into these festive libations is up to the creator. Josh Fossitt, who was behind the programs of Chicago’s Bad Hunter and New York City’s NoMad and is co-owner of cocktail catering company Hospitality 201,

looks for spirits and liqueurs providing something fresh. “Pineau des Charentes is nice to use,” he explains. “We also use La Troussepinette, another wine-based fortified spirit, with an apple-y flavor. Use anything that doesn’t overpower the drink but adds structure and a little bitterness.” Presentation is key to creating a holiday libation and goes well beyond flutes and coupes. At Bad Hunter, glassware was found that could hold the liquor base with crushed ice and a 375-milliliter bottle of cava or prosecco, upside down. At NoMad, the famous Cocktail Explosions are served in large-format vessels with a spigot, containing almost a gallon of liquid over crushed ice with garnishes for groups of eight to 10. “We would add a bottle of sparkling rosé to the spirit and make it as delicious as we possibly could, garnishing with strawberries, beautiful cleaned mint, caramelized half-moons of pineapple with rind and dehydrated lemon or lime wheels—the more you use the better,” says Fossitt. 

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BEHIND THE BAR

Planning your Holiday Cocktail Menu It’s easier than you think... as long as you keep it uncomplicated Briana Rupel The trend of seasonal consumption has not missed bar programs across the country. While “drinking seasonally” is great for quality and variety, it’s no secret that revamping a cocktail menu is time consuming work. And during the holiday rush, the last thing bartenders have extra of is time. Instead of worrying about a complete re-vamp, follow these tips for a holiday cocktail menu that’s both attractive to customers, yet forgiving on planning and prep.

KEEP IT SIMPLE There’s so much behind-the-scenes action that goes into creating a new menu from scratch: sorting through submissions; ordering new booze; creating a par list for new prep; training staff on new drinks; even debating what names to use and dealing with pesky printer issues when the day comes to introduce your baby to the world. By the time the kinks are worked out and staff feels confident in the execution, it’s already time to scrap your work and plan for the next season.  Escape this headache-inducing cycle by focusing on classics that aren’t too reliant on seasonal fruits (i.e. Manhattans in the winter and Margaritas in the summer) and introducing two creative cocktails for the season. Or, keep a popular spring seasonal on, and tweak it for colder months by introducing a little hickory smoke. Simple adjustments can make noteworthy transformations.

THINK GEOGRAPHICALLY A bar in Southern California probably doesn’t need to feature a Hot Toddy on its holiday menu, but if you’re operating out of Bemidji, Minn., a winter warmer that’ll break the chill is sure to be a top seller.  Also, think of holiday traditions that are popular in your area. A spiced, warm Glühwein will remind Wisconsinites of their German grandmothers, while a hot bourbon milk punch is steeped in Southern hospitality. People gravitate toward comfort and tradition during the holidays; use it to your advantage.

BULK UP Make pre-batching your go-to technique. Choose drinks like the Tom and Jerry or hot-buttered rum that have a batter as a component. The batter can be whipped up in one huge batch and frozen until service. That’s less than an hour of prep that will last you all season. Look for classic punch recipes; hot punches can be kept warm on low in a crockpot, while cold punches can be stored in a Cambro until service. A large bowl of punch that can serve a group of eight is efficient during holiday banquets and parties. 

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BEHIND THE BAR

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Tools of the Trade Our Resident Bartender’s review of the Poor Man’s Kitchen Kilpatrick Fine Strainer

Briana Rupel Anyone who’s ever worked with me knows I’m obsessive with my mise en place. My knives and peelers must be placed in order on the cutting board. My shakers and strainers must be symmetrically lined back up as soon as an order is finished. I’m the girl who will sit at your bar and rearrange coaster stacks to the same height. I’m real fun at cocktail parties.

The plus side of my neurosis is that I’m always looking for ways to cut the clutter and make service more efficient. One afternoon while reading one of my favorite bartender blogs, I was introduced to a new tool that seemed so genius I couldn’t believe it wasn’t already on the market. I had to get my paws on one.  The Poor Man’s Kitchen Kilpatrick Fine Strainer is the market’s first all-in-one cocktail strainer and the lovechild of industry veterans George Carney and Ted Kilpatrick. By incorporating a layer of fine mesh directly onto the familiar body of the Hawthorne, they’ve simplified a two-tool, two-hand process into a one-handed process, resulting in fewer tools to keep track of, less cleanup and more bar space.  I wasn’t the only one intrigued by this mashup that’s “made by bartenders, for bartenders.” After starting a Kickstarter campaign as a pre-order to raise money for the initial production, 853 believers in efficient mixology pledged $41,057 to bring this project to life.  The proof is in the pudding, er, the mojito devoid of mint particles waiting to get stuck in your teeth on your first date. Let me assure you: This bad boy works.  The Kilpatrick strains out those tiny ice shards and herb flecks just as well as our old friend the tea strainer, but where it really excels is with thicker cocktails using fruit purees or egg whites. Straining an egg white drink through mesh is essential

FALL 2019 | 89

in getting that coveted silky froth, but it’s too easy to lose patience with a regular tea strainer. Its cone shape results in a pretty small surface area, leaving a busy bartender to tap endlessly on its edge to coax the cocktail through, wasting precious time we don’t have during Friday’s happy hour.  But when I whipped up a whiskey egg white sour and slapped my virgin Kilpatrick on top of my tin, I was simply able to rotate my hand a little more than usual to utilize the maximum surface area (the mesh plate makes up half of the strainer!), resulting in the speediest egg white strain in my 15-year career. Cleanup is as simple as a rinse under water and a tap or two to knock off any residuals.  It might take making a few rounds before your muscle memory stops telling your other hand to reach for the tea strainer, but soon enough you’ll be using that free hand to pat yourself on the back for purchasing this game-changing tool. 

“By incorporating a layer of fine mesh directly onto the familiar body of the Hawthorne, they’ve simplified a two-tool, two-hand process into a one-handed process, resulting in fewer tools to keep track of, less cleanup and more bar space.” - Briana Rupel

Restaurant Inc. Resident Bartender

Photos by Ford Media Lab

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BEHIND THE BAR

Deconstructing the Tom & Jerry A Wisconsinite’s Ode to Tradition Briana Rupel Growing up in central Wisconsin, I knew that one thing always signified the start of the holiday season: countless plastic tubs of Tom and Jerry batter stacked up in the local grocery store’s dairy section.

And, as the snow kept flying, it seemed everyone was serving up the beloved winter cocktail, from aunties passing around frothtopped festive mugs at family gatherings to the townie bar serving them in Styrofoam cups during its annual Christmas party. I always assumed this warm, creamy beverage was a national treasure. It turns out, however, that this cocktail is specific to mostly Wisconsin and Minnesota. All my Michigan co-workers, in fact, thought I was referring to the cartoon whenever I mentioned drinking a Tom and Jerry. As with most cocktails, more than one person has claimed to be the originator of the Tom and Jerry, but it’s mostly accepted throughout the cocktail world that British writer Pierce Egan created it in the early 1800s as a way to promote his novel, “Life in London.” (You can guess what the main characters were named.) Wisconsinites would most likely tell you that the essential ingredient is brandy, but really what

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makes or breaks this cozy antidote to winter’s bitter cold is the batter. The traditional recipe consists of eggs—separated so the whites can be beaten until stiff—mixed with sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. The batter is then scooped into a warmed mug, topped with rum, brandy and hot water. A good batter will create a rich, frothy mouthfeel. While there are good companies out there making quality batter you can pre-order, it’s important to avoid the brands using thickening agents and artificial flavors or sweeteners. The resulting cocktail will only be gummy and taste like aspartame.  The best route is to go homemade. Find eggs from local chickens for good color. Replace water with oat milk for a depth of flavor that will be your little secret. Whatever you do, make a big enough batch to share with neighbors and family. It’s the Wisconsin way. 

BRI’S TOM & JERRY Serves: 72 BATTER: 12 eggs, separated 1 tsp cream of tartar

“The best route is to go homemade. Find eggs from local chickens for good color. Replace water with oat millk for a depth of flavor that will be your little secret.”

Pinch of salt 1 stick unsalted butter, softened 1 cup confectioners’ sugar

- Briana Rupel

Restaurant Inc. Resident Bartender

1 tsp cinnamon ¾ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground nutmeg ¼ tsp ground clove 2 tsp Bittercube Cherry Bark Vanilla Bitters

BATTER DIRECTIONS: In a non-reactive bowl, beat 12 egg whites with cream of tartar and salt until stiff peaks form. In another bowl, beat 12 yolks with rest of ingredients until completely blended. Fold mixture into egg white mixture. Place into containers and freeze until service.

COCKTAIL: 1 heaping tbsp homemade Tom and Jerry batter 1 oz Appleton Estate Signature Blend Jamaican Rum 1 oz brandy 4 oz oat milk Fresh nutmeg

COCKTAIL DIRECTIONS: In a warmed mug, add batter, rum and brandy. In a tin, steam milk to 160 F. Add milk to mug, using a bar spoon to stir cocktail while letting foamed milk form a fluffy froth atop the mug. Dust with freshly grated nutmeg and serve immediately.

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BEHIND THE BAR

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PACK A PUNCH This season, serve festive, large-format offerings certain to put customers in a cheerful mood

EASY BREEZY RUM PUNCH INGREDIENTS:

Briana Rupel A beautiful bowl of punch not only entices your customers with merriment, it also provides an efficient way to navigate service during the season of busy holiday banquets and gatherings. “The origins of punch date back to a time when drinking in public was centered around an occasion; for example, a town meeting at the public house,” says Patrick Williams, national beverage director for Punch Bowl Social, whose nearly 20 locations nationwide boast a winning concoction of music, food, games and punch. “[Our] concept has always focused on bringing people together and a bowl of punch is the perfect way to do that.”

5 blood oranges, peeled ¾ cup sugar ¾ cup fresh lime juice 20 oz Jamaican rum 5 oz Pierre Ferrand orange curaçao 1 qt water Freshly grated nutmeg

DIRECTIONS:

To be clear, a classic punch is strong and spirit-based, and not to be confused with the neon-hued wapatui of frat parties or wine-based sangrias.

In glass jar, place orange peels

“Good punch is all about balancing the classic elements of punch: sweet, sour, strong and weak,” explains Williams. “It should be refreshing, delicious and keep you coming back for more.”

then sit in sun for eight hours. Add

In his award-winning book, “Punch,” renowned cocktail historian David Wondrich writes that for some 200 years punch was “the reigning monarch of the kingdom of mixed drinks.” But do punch bowls really have a place on the modern-day craft cocktail menu?

is dissolved. Pour entire contents

“Punches are great drink menu applications,” continues Williams, “ ... because as a large-format drink, it gives you the opportunity to layer multiple flavors in a way that you simply cannot in a smaller, one-off cocktail.” That’s not to say making a delicious punch is as easy as throwing things together in a bowl. There are important nuances to consider when it comes to dilution (“Know your ice,” Williams suggests), building complexity with homemade oleo-saccharum (Blood orange is his favorite) and keeping balance if using acidic, vinegar-based shrubs. His number one tip, however, is to start small.

and sugar. Seal and shake it, lime juice and agitate until sugar into punch bowl along with spirits, water and ice. Grate nutmeg over top and serve.

Photos by Amber Boutwell, Punch Bowl Social

“Don’t go experimenting with a full bottle of whiskey, rum or other spirit until you’ve built a single to which you really like,” he recommends.

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BEHIND THE BAR

Heaven Hill’s National Brand Educator Explores Her Heritage through Cocktails Lynn M. House

My mother’s side of the family is African American, Choctaw, Blackfoot, French and Irish. My father’s side of the family is African American, Cherokee and Scottish. The flavors from all these cultures have shaped my culinary tastes, and, as such have greatly influenced my approach to cocktail creation. There are very few ingredients I think are off limits. Nuanced ingredients like apple butter, pickled rhubarb, blackberry basil shrub, mulberries, sweet peas, pineapple sage and lingonberry jam have taken center stage on my menus throughout my career as a bartender. In my current role at Heaven Hill Brands, that hasn’t changed.

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A great cocktail is all about understanding balance. I think cocktails achieve greatness when the creator is true to their voice. My daughter is half Japanese, so I often utilize Asian flavors as a way of paying homage to her. My granddaughters are half Peruvian. Learning about that culture has opened new doors for me. In describing my style, I would say it pays homage to those who came before me and honors the generations to follow. The following are a few of my autumn-inspired, signature cocktails that evoke my multi-cultural heritage, while paying homage to my diverse family.

INGREDIENTS:

The flavors from my diverse cultural background have shaped my culinary tastes, and, as such have greatly influenced my approach to cocktail creation. There are very few ingredients I think are off limits. Nuanced ingredients like apple butter, pickled rhubarb, blackberry basil shrub, mulberries, sweet peas, pineapple sage and lingonberry jam have taken center stage on my menus throughout my career as a bartender. In my current role at Heaven Hill Brands, that hasn’t changed.

1 ½ oz Sacred Bond bottled-in-bond brandy 1 ½ oz plum wine ½ oz fresh lemon juice ½ oz apple cider gastrique 1 oz dry Champagne

DIRECTIONS Combine all ingredients, except Champagne, into mixing glass; ice and shake until well chilled. Roll in champagne, strain cocktail into a coupe. Garnish with a thin apple slice.

LA RACINE

INGREDIENTS:

La racine literally translates in French to “the root.” This cocktail utilizes a root vegetable as its featured flavor. The name also harks back to the fact that my roots have been a huge influence in regard to the cocktails I create.

1 ½ oz Larceny wheated bourbon ¾ oz Domaine de Canton 1 oz fresh carrot juice ¼ oz lime juice ½ oz orange juice Pinch of cinnamon 2 dashes of Bar Keep organic fennel bitters

DIRECTIONS Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass; ice and shake until well chilled. Fill a rocks glass with fresh ice, and strain cocktail into glass. Garnish with a fennel frond. 

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New baby, new restaurant: It’s all in a week’s work for Chicago’s award-winning Chef Beverly Kim Mindy S. Kolof

e continue our series spotlighting extraordinary females in foodservice with Chicagobased, James Beard Awardwinning chef, Beverly Kim. As she prepared to open her second restaurant, Wherewithall, with husband Johnny Clark—while still running Michelin-starred Parachute and juggling a growing family—Kim took a step back to consider her amazing journey to the top.

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Kim admits she was blessed with a strong mentor who recognized her potential early on. As a 16 year old, in the mid-1990s, shadowing legendary Chef Sarah Stegner, Kim says: “I was very encouraged to see a woman leader; there were very few of them at the time. I felt an unspoken feeling of security, just knowing that she made it happen.” Encouraged by Stegner to further hone her skills, Kim earned a culinary degree, and in the eventful decade following, worked for top names like Takashi Yagihashi and Charlie Trotter, became an executive chef at Hotel Fairmont Chicago – Millennium Park, married soulmate Johnny Clark and shot to national prominence as a finalist on season nine of “Top Chef.” What she also discovered was a passion to bring community together under her roof to break bread, and with Clark, opened Parachute in 2014. “It’s not traditional Korean,” Kim explains, “but my interpretation of what KoreanAmerican food can look like.” While diners can order classic bibimbap and will always see an ultra-comforting baked potato-flavored bing bread on the menu, the rest is seasonal. But what may distinguish Parachute most is Kim’s vision of hospitality. “It’s about love,” she says. “All my best memories are connected to food, and Parachute is about creating great memories for my guests.” The newly opened Wherewithall is also a place for community to gather, she stresses, with a four-course menu and all-day bar stocked with local wines and spirits.

“It’s meant to be approachable, a place that delights you, but no need to save up for a year to come.” “Approachable” is the right word for Kim, too, who is grounded in a way that belies her many prestigious awards. “You can’t take your accolades with you. It’s what you give back that’s most important. We have to continue opening doors for women and keep having the conversations sparked by #MeToo about the right thing to do. It may take a generation until it’s no longer an issue.” Kim also offers the same generous health-insurance stipend to Wherewithall employees as she has for the last five years at Parachute. “Our industry has been behind in this, and people are still largely unaware of food costs and the human cost of getting that food to the table.” Her advice to women: “Surround yourself with people who will work with you toward a common goal. I’m nobody without the support around me, but you also have to feel you deserve that support.” Along with that is permission to dream big. “People would often ask me ‘do you really want that?’ Life is full of ‘whatifs,’ but believe in yourself—and work your butt off!” n

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BREAKING BREAD

80 Years of

Angelo’s An iconic Western Pennsylvania restaurant defines its success Jeffrey Ward

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It all started in 1939 with spaghetti and meatballs. Originally named The West Chestnut Spaghetti Inn and located in Washington, Pa., 30 miles southeast of Pittsburgh, Angelo and Giacomina Passalacqua served freshly made pasta and bread daily to the region’s blue-collar workers, launching a family-run legacy now owned and operated by their grandson, Michael Passalacqua. Angelo’s celebrates its 80th anniversary in 2019 and is not only an example of longevity, but a thriving, living record of what it takes to maintain success for generations in a difficult industry.

“The only way you are going to stay alive in this business is knowing the numbers,” advises Passalacqua. “If you’re not staying on top of things, your chances of longevity are pretty slim.”

“My grandfather was an entrepreneur’s entrepreneur,” says Michael Passalacqua, a “restaurateur of the year” award recipient by the Pennsylvania Restaurant & Lodging Association. “He went broke many times and bit off more than he could chew. I definitely have his tenacious genes.”

After that turmoil was resolved, Angelo’s faced yet another round of struggles a few years later. The neighborhood was rapidly deteriorating, and parking issues were driving away business. The kitchen was so small, hot and miserable it was hard to retain staff.

That kind of tenacity has served Angelo’s well, surmounting the kinds of unforeseen challenges that can put independently owned restaurants out of business. Though a busy establishment for decades, circumstances tightened a grip around the restaurant in the late 1990s when the local economy was sinking.

An unfathomable decision had to be made: Relocate to a better location or face the consequences. Recalls Passalacqua, “It was not an expansion—it was truly a survival move.”

At that point, lunch business dropped from 120 covers a day to 20. “The glass factory, steel mills and companies that worked with the coal mining industry all closed,” recalls Passalacqua. “For a period of three years, I was nearly broke, and it took me months to pay some of my bills.” Passalacqua would lie awake at night worrying if he could survive it. Working nonstop and forfeiting a salary, he made cuts with triage-level intensity; maximizing cost control, conducting weekly inventories, costing out recipes, analyzing profit-and-loss statements and scrutinizing every bill coming in.

The new Angelo’s, built from the ground up a mile away, features a larger dining room, private event space for 60 people, two kitchens and a patio. To ensure the previous clientele felt comfortable in the completely new space, Passalacqua installed design details from the old restaurant, including the custom columns and artwork. He even retained the signature color scheme. Soon, a gelato and dessert manufacturing space was added with a retail counter that today offers 18 gelato flavors as well as gelato and mousse cakes. Passalacqua finds perseverance in detail-oriented accomplishments every day. “I’m a big believer in small change,” he says. “I’ve been doing this for 38 years, and I’ve never taken my foot off the gas once. I tweak this, I tweak that and just keep working in that direction.” n

The bar (left) and dining room (right) in 1955

The dining room in 1978 FALL 2019 | 105

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Sunday Salutation Keeping holiday brunches festive with light, flavorful dishes. Victor Ozols What do you do after you’ve attended the holiday happy hour, the holiday dinner and the late-night holiday party? You go home, sleep it off and start over the next day with a holiday brunch, of course.

Restaurants roll out the winter favorites for brunch this time of year, and it’s not all chocolate waffles and candy cane crumble pancakes. Light, delicious options abound for those looking to begin the day on a healthy note—saving the real decadence until after sunset. At Baptiste & Bottle in Chicago, brunch guests seeking lighter dishes can skip the meat options and go for the tofu skillet. “I tend to put it on the menu during fall and winter,” says Emilio Gonzalez, executive chef. “It reflects the season. I’ll serve it with bok choy as well as roasted kabocha squash and toasted pumpkin seeds.” The seasonal treatment can also be given to one of the more contemporary brunch favorites: avocado toast. “Our avocado toast is really refreshing, made with a lot of vegetables and topped with a mini salad of arugula and mixed greens,” he adds. “In the fall and winter, I’ll incorporate shishito peppers because you can get a really nice char on them without them getting bitter, and they add great flavor and texture.” Even a comfort food classic like quiche can be a unique vehicle for your daily vegetables, says

Caroline Markham, general manager of Boston’s Eastern Standard. “We have an amazing quiche available during brunch that’s very simple, and it’s the crust that makes it great because it’s just buttery and flaky enough,” Markham says. “We do it simply with mushroom, spinach and gruyere, and in the fall, we might do sweet potato and goat cheese.” Greg Biggers, the executive chef at Margeaux Brasserie in Chicago’s Waldorf Astoria hotel, believes that even the most basic healthy brunch staple, the grapefruit half, can be made more interesting. “Located in a hotel, we get a lot of people who order grapefruit, but I wanted to make it more modern,” Biggers says. “We take grapefruit, segment it out, toss it with a little mint gastrique and blueberries, and serve it with passionfruit yogurt and a little shot of fresh squeezed grapefruit juice.” The result is both elegant and familiar. “We’re trying to rework something so classic as half a grapefruit without making it into something else,” he says. “It’s more interesting and fun for the guest.”

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Slimmer

SIPS Lightening up winter cocktails while keeping spirits high Victor Ozols

While a festive glass of thick, rich eggnog remains the iconic holiday cocktail, guests at establishments across the country are requesting drinks that embrace the season’s flavors in lighter ways. They’re fortunate to be drinking in 2019, as today’s bartenders not only have the tools and techniques of the craft cocktail movement—they have access to better ingredients than ever before. 108 | RESTAURANT INC

A successful winter cocktail menu is one that pairs well with the food on offer, says Torrence O’Haire, sommelier and corporate beverage director of Gage Hospitality Group. The company owns five restaurants in Chicago, including The Gage, Coda di Volpe and Beacon Tavern.

those up with extra sugar, but if you’re avoiding the calories, a nicer, higher-quality spirit would have fewer flaws to hide.”

“Fall and winter dishes tend to be richer, sweeter and more aromatically spiced, so I approach cocktails from the need to balance against the meal,” O’Haire explains. “Cleaner flavor profiles to balance the aromatics of holiday food, a focus on acid and bitterness to balance richness, and drier, lighter textures to balance sweetness.”

“A well-balanced cocktail includes bitter, savory, herbal, floral and/or even salty notes, with acid to balance, and the proper water-dilution to bring everything together,” O’Haire says. “Find opportunities to improve the flavor from a balance standpoint, and you’ll need to use less sugar to make up the difference.”

To achieve this while keeping the cocktail’s potency in check, he suggests using “low-proof spirits, wines and non-alcoholic agents” in place of traditional spirits like vodka, gin and whiskey.

The trend isn’t limited to upscale restaurants. Even the Miracle family of Christmas-themed pop-up bars—brightly adorned winter wonderlands that offer an immersive holiday experience—offers guests lighter options on its menu of craft cocktails.

The secret, then, is experimenting with different combinations until you get your recipe just right.

“One of my favorites is my Madeira Cobbler, an old-school drink composed of wine, sugar and fruit,” O’Haire says. “Using Madeira with seasonal fruits and spices gives you something balanced, complex and interesting that isn’t any more powerful than a glass of wine.”

“People are lightening up, and our drinks reflect that,” says Joann Spiegel, general manager. “We’ve made sure they’re not all the eggnog-style options you would expect.”

To lower the amount of sugar in a cocktail without losing flavor, it helps to realize why it’s there in the first place. “Rougher or less-polished ingredients often have coarse edges or off notes,” he warns. “You can cover

Mulled Cider

She continues: “I’ve added a great martini-style gin cocktail made with a pine tea cordial and some eucalyptus bitters. Another drink is very sherryforward and a bit lower in ABV, without a lot of citrus or syrup.”

“I’ve added a great martini-style gin cocktail made with a pine tea cordial and some eucalyptus bitters.” Joann Spiegel, General Manager of Miracle, describing the Koala-La La La, La La La La (pictured right) FALL 2019 | 109

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Helping Hands for the Holidays Addiction and abuse increase during the holidays. Show your team you care. Ari Bendersky

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It’s well known that alcohol and drug abuse and addiction run rampant in the restaurant and bar industries. A study released by George Mason University in 2017 showed that 53 percent of respondents said they knew someone at work with a substance abuse problem. And that number likely increases during the winter holidays.

“It’s a more stressful time, and people are busier and want to work more hours to make more money,” says Dr. Stephen Taylor, M.D., MPH and chief medical director, behavioral at Pathway Healthcare in Birmingham, Ala. “It’s also a time a lot of people have painful memories that happened around the holidays. There’s a confluence of factors that can bring on stress during the holidays.” Taylor discusses while the holidays tend to bring out more of a festive atmosphere, that time becomes more difficult for people who abstain from alcohol or drugs. He explains restaurant owners or managers can actively create an atmosphere that says it’s OK for staff not only to ask for help, but to ask people if they need assistance. “This is an opportunity to help somebody with a potentially deadly disease,” Taylor says, stressing addiction is an illness and shouldn’t be stigmatized. “You can then have a healthier employee and decrease the amount of turnover. So why not help them get the help they need?” One way to decrease a party atmosphere with your staff is to add spirit-free cocktails to your menu to relieve that burden for someone feeling pressure to drink. You can also stop offering a “shift drink” at the end of the night as Ray-Scott Miller, owner of Fine & Dandy in Jackson, Miss., has done.

is having an issue, which may increase during the holidays because we’re spending—or not spending— time with family. “If I see someone who is talented and hardworking, but there’s something blocking them from achieving their best self, I’m going to help them in any way I can,” Miller says. “I’m a firm believer the right kind of therapy works, real-work therapy.” For Jason Vincent, chef/partner at Giant and Chef’s Special Cocktail Bar in Chicago, he and his partners decided early on to create a safe space for their employees to be able to come to them and talk about any issues. He says the holidays add pressure, so they all need to take care of each other. “You have to ask people if they’re OK and ask questions in a non-invasive way,” Vincent advises. “If it’s going to make it better for the person, what am I risking? There’s a difference between people and business and you must, in a respectful way, ask someone if they’re OK, recommend a therapist, offer to drive them home. Be a human being before potentially costing them something they can’t get back.” And that’s great advice for any time of the year, not just during the holidays. 

Miller, who says he is an addict, but no longer drinks or takes drugs, has also been in therapy since childhood, so he can see the signs when someone on his team

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Senior Celebrations Modernize holiday offerings to appeal to the savvy baby boomer generation Mindy Kolof

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Like a distant, yet powerful wave rolling onto shore, baby boomers are making a huge splash in the senior living space. Change is inevitable as they arrive after a lifetime of sophisticated dining and acquired tastes for global legacy cuisines. Their expectations run high, especially during the holidays, and we checked in with operators creating experiences that resonate across generations.

“Boomers are very savvy about their food,” says Scott Kirchhoff, director of nutrition at Citizens Memorial Healthcare in Missouri. That’s guiding a push toward flash cooking, fresh ingredients and more global offerings at the network of seven long termcare facilities and 86-bed hospital. For Kirchhoff, who also oversees the hospital’s vibrant catering arm, it underscores the need to continually innovate and interact with the community. Everyone’s involved, from the marketing team right up to the CEO, who makes a point of attending as many holiday events as possible to mingle with residents. At Texas’ Oak Ridge Manor, the incoming generation is proving a bit of a challenge with their connectedness. Not to each other, but to their devices, says certified dietary manager Donna Ynostrosa. Exhibiting some of the same characteristics as their grandchildren, these newer residents prefer fast-food options, and would rather stay in their rooms playing with smartphones than socialize at the dining room table. It’s a source of some frustration for Ynostrosa, who bubbles with dozens of ideas that have delighted current residents for years. At a previous Thanksgiving, she stirred up a trio of beloved homemade soups; at Christmas, transformed the dining room into a dessert wonderland; and livened up January with a Disneyinspired “Hoop-Dee-Doo Musical Revue,” complete with buckets of fried chicken. She is determined to lure boomers out of their rooms by emphasizing five-star restaurant quality meals, homemade chef salads and loaded baked potatoes, and more lively events. True to form, this year’s Halloween consists of “mummy” hot dogs wrapped in puffed pastry and candy corn cupcakes. Even at Omaha’s Rose Blumkin Jewish Home (RBJH)—known as “Disneyland for the elderly” with a Main Street promenade— an authentic deli and one of the most generous allocations of food spend in the industry, the generational clash requires a tricky balancing act. “The boomers coming in are a whole different crowd and we’re diversifying with items like osso bucco and seafood on ciabatta,” says Mike Aparo, director of food services. “But the older residents see this on the menu and ask, ‘what’s that?’” Fortunately, there are favorites everyone agrees on, such as prime rib entrees and Hanukah latkes. On Christmas Eve, a Chinese meal is served in a nod to the Jewish-American tradition of seeking out the only restaurants open during the holiday. A point of pride is the Glatt Kosher Star Deli, which “took off like wildfire” since opening onsite in 2010 and continues to win raves for its New York-style pastrami, hand-braided challah bread and latke reubens. Now a go-to catering option for bar mitzvahs and weddings, Aparo may well have ensured RBJH’s high-profile presence for at least another generation.

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LAST BITES James Beard Awardee, culinary historian speaks on how her heritage has influenced modern American fare. Audarshia Townsend

Dr. Jessica B. Harris has the ultimate dream job: She constantly travels all over the globe, feeding her curiosity of other countries’ cuisines and cultures. During her more than 40 years in the biz, she’s written 12 cookbooks based on her incredible adventures—particularly throughout Africa—and for those achievements, she was inducted in the James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame in 2019. Dr. Harris’ awards and accolades are too many to mention, but what’s most impressive is that she’s crafted herself as an expert on African-American and African diaspora cuisine. We recently caught up with her to discuss a few things concerning black cuisine. RESTAURANT INC.: How do you feel the perception of AfricanAmerican cuisine has improved throughout the years?

DR. JESSICA B. HARRIS: I think people have always recognized that there was a tastiness that’s different in terms of the food of the African American and the African diaspora, but I think people are now better understanding the cultural importance of the food. RI: When you think about all your travels and think about all the food you’ve consumed during those travels, what were your favorite places you traveled and some of your favorite dishes? JBH: As we’re speaking, I’m in New Orleans. I am gastronomically challenged when I am [here] because I am allergic to shellfish, so there are some things I can eat and some things I can’t eat. I love some of the rémoulade sauces, and I am fortunate to have friends in New Orleans who are excellent cooks. For example, I was very, very friendly with Mrs. [Leah] Chase [of Dooky Chase’s Restaurant].

RI: Can you tell me about your relationship with the late Mrs. Chase? JBH: She was a dear, dear friend. I loved her. She wasn’t my mother, but she was certainly my “aunt.” The number of times I sat and ate in her restaurants was countless. I had interviewed her multiple times and written about her several times. The book of mine I recall her being in was “BEYOND GUMBO: Creole Fusion Food from the Atlantic Rim.” She was extraordinary.

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RI: I feel like Mrs. Chase received her due as far as African-American cuisine and being the face of New Orleans with Creole fare. Overall, however, why is it so difficult for African-American women to be recognized as chefs of note? JBH: You’re looking at the history of this country. All of the things that are

deeply imbedded in this country and that includes, up until recently, a disdain for service professions. Chefs are just now considered “professional.” They’ve just now started to get reputations, and what’s happened with that is that it’s become a field that whites are entering more and more. It used to be a service field or a domestics field for African Americans or other people of color. It’s also a disdain for women. You’re dealing with two things that triangulate with African-American women: You’re dealing with race and you’re dealing with gender.

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