Restaurant Inc - Spring 2020

EDUCATE VOL

08,

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COLLABORATE

ISSUE

02

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SPRING

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EMPOWER

2020

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$5.99

Sustainability, THE Key Ingredient

CHEFS OBSESS OVER LOCAL, SEASONAL PRODUCE PG 86, 88

7 WAYS TO BUILD A MORE SUSTAINABLE BAR PG 100

MAKE YOUR

MARK THE

TERES

MAJOR Chef Lou Rice Whether your establishment is white tablecloth, family dining, Asian or Hispanic, the Teres Major can be a perfect fit.

Located in the chuck, the Teres Major is considered to be one of the most tender cuts of beef after the filet, but much more flavorful.

Incredibly versatile, it can shine as a pan-seared medallion, shredded into a fajita dish, or cut thick and grilled like a filet.

The Teres Major tends to be very reasonably priced considering its tenderness & flavor profile and it doesn’t fluctuate in price as much as other cuts.

Contact your Reinhart Sales Consultant or visit rfsdelivers.com/legacy72 to learn more.

Chef Lou has been in the hospitality business for over 35 years spending over 20

of those years working in the educational arena running college food service programs and teaching culinary arts & hospitality to both secondary and post-secondary students.

Other work experience includes bar and grill, fine dining, and a two-year stint in a vegetarian operation. In addition, he's owned one restaurant as well as a separate catering operation. He's written for the Springfield News-Leader, over a dozen regional lifestyle & hospitality magazines, and published a cookbook “Taste of the Ozarks.” His credentials include a hospitality degree from Ivy Tech College in Indianapolis as well as a master's degree in consumer science. He's an American Culinary Federation-certified chef de cuisine, certified hospitality educator and certified restaurant manager. He's also currently studying for his certified dietary manager designation.

[ADVERTORIAL]

Roasted Teres Major with Mushrooms INGREDIENTS 2C

Quartered king oyster mushrooms

1C

Red wine

1C

Demi glace

20 oz

Legacy 72™ Teres major peeled with the ends trimmed

½C

Mushroom salt – recipe below

2T

Vegetable oil

Salt and pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS Add the 2 T of vegetable oil into an oven-safe skillet, and place over medium to high heat.

Pat the meat dry with a paper towel, then season generously on both sides with mushroom salt and black pepper.

Place the steak in the pan and sear on all sides until well browned, then add in the quartered mushrooms.

Place the seared steak and mushrooms into the oven, and continue to cook, turning every 4 minutes, until the steak reaches an internal temperature of 135F.

Once at temperature, remove steak from pan onto a board, cover loosely with foil and rest for 10 minutes.

Deglaze the pan containing the mushrooms with ¼ cup red wine, then add in 1 cup of demiglace and reduce until desired thickness.

Slice the teres thin and sprinkle with mushroom salt.

Serve with roasted Brussels sprouts, buttermilk smashed Yukon Gold potatoes and the mushroom red wine sauce.

MUSHROOM SALT INGREDIENTS 1lb Cremini mushrooms

1T

Soy sauce

2T

½C

Kosher salt

Vegetable oil

INSTRUCTIONS Toss the mushrooms with the oil and soy and roast in a 400F oven, tossing every 10 minutes until the mushrooms are roasted and dry.

In a spice grinder, grind the mushrooms into a powder.

Combine with the kosher salt and store in an air-tight container for about 2 weeks.

©2020 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C, a Performance Food Group Company

QUICK BITES FOR YOUR BRAIN

Before we feast upon this issue, here’s a little something to whet your appetite: from our favorite new books to dining and drinking trends getting the most buzz.

– compiled by Audarshia Townsend

Detroit’s gets ‘Sauce(d)’ …

Michigan’s Heirloom Hospitality (Prime + Proper, Townhouse Birmingham, Townhouse Detroit) gets to show off again with a hot new property. This time it’s Italian fare—with a twist of whimsical California design in a 9,000-square-foot space. On the menu, when Sauce opens this spring in Detroit’s buzzy Midtown neighborhood, will be house-made charcuterie and pastas as well as an evolving rotisserie and hearth-baked Neapolitan pizzas. And like so many of the newest crop of restaurants throughout the country, Sauce aims to be multifaceted. There will also be an artisanal market and three distinct bar experiences with amari, coffee and wine.

LISTEN UP

The Restaurant Inc. podcast has stacked up quite a few sessions, and in case you’ve been missing out, here’s a friendly reminder. They’re hosted by yours truly—and you can tune in to them all at iTunes and SoundCloud.

We are chatting with all sorts of experts, from other Reinhart chefs to industry leaders. Tune in. You won’t be disappointed.

Now available on iTunes and SoundCloud!

TASTY (SOUND) BITES

What does sustainability look like in this new decade?

Rick Bayless chef, restaurateur, author, television personality, environmental activist

A [major] aspect of sustainability that the industry overlooks is the workplace environment. People who work in restaurants like to move.

If you gave us a desk job, we would jump out the window. I don’t mind moving for 12 hours a day. I am happy to do that. I’m a restaurant guy, and I surround myself with people like me. I don’t believe many restaurants offer a good work/life balance. It’s a caustic environment with people hollering and not being treated with the greatest respect. Our goal is to always offer a really great work/life balance and a respectful place for all of our employees to be in. We do that everywhere we go, and to me that is an important component of sustainability.

READTHIS You’re always looking to liven up your menu, and this new cookbook from the Eat Offbeat Chefs should serve as inspiration. Fourteen immigrant chefs from across the globe, from Iran to Venezuela, have collaborated on Kitchens without Borders with 70 authentic recipes. You’ll get the stories behind the recipes, of course, such as Syrian hummus, Nepalese meatballs and Iraqi biryani (rice dish with vegetables and dried fruits), but what will be even more satisfying is that two percent of every book sold benefits the International Rescue Committee (IRC). That’s a nonprofit organization dedicated to providing humanitarian aid, relief and resettlement to refugees and other victims of oppression or violent conflict.

It’s available in June.

SPRING 2020 | 3

LETTER FROM PERFORMANCE

Our Team is Stronger Than Ever

& READY TO DELIVER Foodservice is a constantly evolving industry that thrives through innovation and strong relationships. At Performance Foodservice, we take great pride in providing quality products that help our customers prosper.

And like Reinhart, supporting restaurants in their success is the very nature of our business. With that in mind, I am excited to announce that Reinhart Foodservice is now part of Performance Foodservice.

The addition of Reinhart allows our two great companies to grow together and align our values, while maintaining our commitment to our customers. We’re honored to include Reinhart’s proud history in our own evolving story. Our new partnership enables us to share many of Performance Foodservice’s remarkable brands, including industry favorites like our Roma® line of Italian ingredients, Peak Fresh Produce®, and Bacio® cheese.

Together with Reinhart, Performance Foodservice is dedicated to providing exceptional service and supporting you as your operation continues to grow. Our common focus is always on our customers and the communities we serve. We are absolutely thrilled about what the future holds and the possibilities this collaboration provides.

Fred A. Sanelli

SVP MARKETING AND SALES DEVELOPMENT PERFORMANCE FOODSERVICE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert MANAGING EDITOR Audarshia Townsend ART DIRECTION Jenn Bushman DESIGNERS Drew Frigo, Lauren Jonson, Morgan Gilmore PHOTOGRAPHER Dan Coha FOOD STYLIST Susan Barrientos-Hevey Reinhart welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, Attn: Marketing, 8700 W. Brywn Mawr Ave, Suite 400N, Chicago, IL 60631 or rfsmarketing@rfsdelivers.com

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Running a restaurant means putting out fires; Our new mobile app offers easy ordering at your fingertips.

Manage Multiple Locations

View Order Status

Detailed Product Information

TRACS Mobile syncs up with your existing TRACS Direct account. Must be a Reinhart Customer to utilize TRACS Direct and TRACS Mobile.

Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Android is a trademark of Google Inc. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc. Š2019 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C.

CREATIVE CONTRIBUTORS

JENN BUSHMAN Jenn is a Creative Services Manager at Reinhart Foodservice heading up brand and creative leadership and is based in Chicago, IL. She possesses a combination of conceptual and strategic strength and technical proficiency. Jenn always knew she wanted to pursue a creative career. Though she spends most of her days on the computer, she is passionate about finding ways to work with her hands. Art has always been her first love and she continues to oil paint in her free time.

DREW FRIGO A well-rounded creative professional, Drew brings bold ideas to the table as the Senior Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice. Thinking through drawing, he has very few limits or rules when he draws, which attributes to his knack for generating fresh ideas. With that said, his photographic eye, technical savviness, and being surrounded by a great team help bring these ideas to life. Orange juice, family, fat biking, creating art, and music are huge motivators.

MORGAN GILMORE Morgan is a Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice. With her creative brain, strong visual layout and simplistic illustration, her work has a distinct look that you’ll see throughout the magazine. In her spare time, Morgan is doodling on her iPad, reading books or riding her bike.

LAUREN JONSON Lauren is an avid baker who does graphic design, in that order. She has a passion for creativity, and typically says yes to any challenge – in and out of the kitchen. Designing for over 12 years, she has developed multiple magazine concepts and marketing campaigns all while perfecting her grandmother’s bourbon pecan pie. Lauren’s life is a flavorful collaboration of art and raising her two beautiful children.

DAN COHA Dan Coha is a mainstay in Chicago food photography. He has worked with many advertising and promotional agencies, and packaging and design firms, as well as direct corporate clients over the years.

His studio is located in Chicago’s River West neighborhood.

COHAPHOTO.COM

SUSAN BARRIENTOS-HEVEY Susan is a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef who began her career in New York’s Mercer Kitchen, and followed Jean Georges to Minneapolis’s Chambers Kitchen. Always aspiring to make food beautiful, Susan's career in the food styling world has allowed her to work on many brand names. She has contributed to projects for General Mills, Target, Bush’s Beans, Walmart, and continues with Reinhart's Restaurant Inc and The Dish.

SUSANBARRIENTOSFOOD.COM

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CONTRIBUTORS | WRITERS

AUDARSHIA TOWNSEND A Chicago-based author, seasoned food and cocktail culture writer and regular contributor to Chicago’s top-rated WGNTV’s “WGN Morning News,” Audarshia Townsend is Restaurant Inc.’s managing editor. Previously, her work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Tribune Magazine, Essence, Los Angeles Times, Playboy.com, World’s 50 Best Bars and Anthony Bourdain’s Exploring Parts Unknown. She’s also discussed food and drink trends on several local television and radio shows, was a featured expert on The Travel Channel, and served as a judge three years in a row for the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants. She enjoys discovering new dining and drinking trends in her hometown and beyond.

MINDY S. KOLOF The more complex the subject matter, the better Mindy likes to break it down and communicate it with passion. Twenty+ years of experience translates to writing about every type of culinary trend, cutting-edge product and visionary foodservice leader. As principal of her own boutique public relations firm, she’s crafted numerous top-notch communications programs.

Her favorite mashup: the intersection of health, wellness and culinary. Mindy graduated from University of Illinois, Champaign, with a bachelor’s in Journalism.

ARI BENDERSKY Ari Bendersky is a lifestyle journalist specializing in food, wine, spirits and travel. The former founding editor of Eater Chicago, Ari has been writing for 20+ years and his work has appeared in the New York Times, WSJ magazine, Associated Press, Men's Journal, Wine Enthusiast, Departures, RollingStone.com, Crain's Chicago Business, Liquor.com and many more publications. A lover of discovering new food and cultures, Ari travels whenever possible, recently visiting Italy, Finland, Argentina, Portugal and Mexico.

He lives in Chicago with his husband and their super cute scruffy dog, Eddie (the girl!).

BRIANA RUPEL Briana Rupel is a freelance writer and bartender, with more than 15 years of well-rounded experience in the food and beverage industry. She has created craft cocktails for a Four Diamond hotel and designed and led an interactive cocktail seminar. When off the clock, she prefers a hoppy local tap at her neighborhood dive. Bri currently resides in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where she continuously finds creative inspiration in the lush woods and rocky beaches bordering Lake Superior.

VICTOR OZOLS Victor Ozols is a Brooklyn-based writer, editor, and editorial consultant specializing in food, spirits, travel, and design. His work has appeared in Serious Eats, BlackBook, Esquire, and Modern Luxury Interiors, among other publications. When he’s not scouring New York for the best barbecue and craft beers, he’s busy at home with his wife and two sons.

JEFFREY WARD Jeffrey Ward is a public relations and marketing executive who has worked with many of Chicago’s and the country’s most recognizable chefs and restaurateurs. A leader in the culinary and hospitality industry for more than 15 years, his career path was galvanized through his role of director of marketing and communications for the fine-dining division of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. Most recently he worked as senior strategist for the culinary and hospitality division at Agency H5 and a partner at SHOUT Marketing & Media Relations before launching his own namesake communications agency in 2019. His specialties include concept openings and promotional launches as well as long-term management campaigns designed to keep culinary brands in the public eye and marketplace.

SPRING 2020 | 7

CONTENTS

Vol. 08, Issue 02 | SPRING 2020

IN THIS ISSUE

02–03 Quick Bites 04 Letter from PERFORMANCE 06–07 Contributors 10 Vendor Profiles – Sustainability

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS 28 Organic Matters 30 TECH TALK: Appliance Science 32 Green Power 36 Waste Not, Want Not 38 Shift Change 40 Diffuse the Situation 42 Giving Back Pays Back, Big Time 46 Blockchain and the Future of Food Traceability 48 Leading By Example

PRODUCT REVIEWS 52 No Ocean Required 54 Beefless Meat, Chickenless Nuggets, Fish-Free Seafood … a Sustainable Trend?

56 Hold the Yolk

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58 Going Green with To-Go Packaging 60 OMG, GMOs – Good? Or Just Pure Evil?

62 It’s Time to BUG OUT

FROM THE KITCHEN 64 Recipe & Chef Highlights

110 Reclaiming Vermouth’s Place on our Palate

BREAKING BREAD 112 Full Hearts, Full Plates: Food is Love 116 Keeping It Communal

84 Close to Home

HEALTHY LIVING

86 There’s a Season for That

120 Healthier Workers, Happier Workplaces

88 Sustainability & Your Menu 90 Our Guide to Sustainable Seafood is the Reel Deal 93 A Few New Twists On Popular Spring Holiday Dishes 94 Spring Brunch Inspiration for Every Menu 96 Operation Reinhart

BEHIND THE BAR 98 7 Ways to Build A More Sustainable Bar 100 Going Natural

122 Prioritize Your Wellness 124 Garden to Fork: Exploring Sustainable Produce 126 Eat Well Global Connects with a Clear World Vision 128 Gut Check Probiotics: The Inside Story 132 Time to SPICE Things Up 135 Ad Index 136 LAST BITES: It’s Gotten Easier Being Green

102 Success Beyond Spirits 104 Where’s Your Proof?

106 POUR IT ON! Chef’s Cocktail Edition 108 A Fresh Crop of Spring Cocktails SPRING 2020 | 9

VENDOR PROFILE

Ander son’s Maple Syr up

WISCONSIN-BASED COMPANY SUPPORTS LOCAL FARMERS, FOCUSES ON DECREASING CARBON FOOTPRINT AND MAINTAINS HEALTHY FORESTRY PRACTICES.

by Ari Bendersky

Set in Wisconsin’s Northwoods, Anderson’s is a third-generation maple syrup producer in business since 1928. With only nine employees, Anderson’s sells its syrup, pancake mix and other products throughout America.

F

irst and foremost, Anderson’s works with Wisconsin’s DNR Forestry to maintain vigorous forests through healthy tapping practices, thus encouraging regeneration and diversity of tree species.

The company has installed energy-efficient equipment and actively recycles materials.

Calculations have shown Anderson’s maple woods absorb 1.25 times the company’s carbon output. This will increase over the next decade by reducing facility emissions and increasing and protecting the forest area for absorption.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

S US TAI N AB I L I T Y P R AC TIC E S

Anderson’s takes an approach of gratitude and responsibility toward the health of the trees from which it sources its antioxidantand vitamin-rich maple syrup.

Anderson’s supports local maple syrup farmers through purchasing their product, but also sharing decades of information and experience in maple production and regulatory compliance.

Generational w ealth nev er tasted so sw eet.

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VENDOR PROFILE

Aqua Star

SEATTLE COMPANY USES TRACEABILITY TO STAY ACCOUNTABLE IN SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD INDUSTRY.

by Jeffrey Ward

Founded by veterans of the seafood industry, Seattle’s Aqua Star has been harvesting and sourcing sustainable seafood from fishermen and farms since 1990. Aqua Star is in 17 countries with hundreds of employees and is one of the leading providers of specialty seafood products, including shrimp, crab and salmon. With sustainable practices baked into its core, Aqua Star is not only committed to responsible seafood harvesting, but also staying transparent to its customers.

T

raceability is a key component of Aqua Star’s comprehensive sustainability platform, holding itself accountable to the consumer to prevent illegal, unregulated and unreported seafood from entering the supply chain. “All products are traceable to their origins through a trace code on each finished product, enabling identification of packer and production date,” explains sustainability director Corey Peet.

“Aqua Star can accurately link all raw materials to specific catch area or farm and due diligence is performed to avoid illegal, unregulated or unreported catch and illegally farmed seafood.”

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

COMMUNITY OUTREACH

A commitment to sourcing seafood and meeting the needs of valued customers though sustainability, social responsibility, traceability and food safety.

Aqua Star has developed two important programs to aid their sustainability efforts. Seafood Forever sets strict internal standards and works with providers in the supply chain — as well as third-party organizations — to ensure best practices and continually improve performance. In conjunction, EcoCatch commits to developing packaging using the least amount of material possible, choosing paper over plastic and being 100 percent recyclable.

Commited to r esponsible seafood har v esting

SPRING 2020 | 11

VENDOR PROFILE

Beav er Street Fisher ies

INDUSTRY LEADER SETS BENCHMARK SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES WITHIN THE SUPPLY CHAIN TO ENSURE STANDARDS ARE MET ACROSS THE BOARD.

by Jeffrey Ward

A family-owned business for more than 65 years with approximately 300 employees, Beaver Street Fisheries of Jacksonville, Fla., is a top importer, manufacturer and distributor that takes social responsibility serious every step of the way—from sourcing to delivery.

A ”

quaculture is quickly becoming a necessity due to our planet’s evergrowing population and overfishing practices,” says Bluzette Carline, marketing director. “Some estimate that the annual catch of edible marine protein has passed its peak and oceans simply cannot naturally provide for the growing demand. Farmed fishing is the solution to fill the gap of supply, and doing so responsibly and sustainably is the solution to providing future generations access to healthy and environmentally friendly options.”

Current programming initiatives at Beaver Street Fisheries are focused on tuna, spiny lobster, squid and snapper sustainability. “We continue to evolve as good stewards in an industry that demands responsible and transparent practices,” says Carline. “We have some of the best people and processes in place to adapt, improve and stay ahead in an industry that is ever-changing.”

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

COMMUNITY OUTREACH

A commitment to working closely with supply chain partners to embrace strategies that support the ever-growing need for responsible seafood from around the world.

Beaver Street Fisheries is a partner and supporter of Global Aquaculture Alliance, Marine Stewardship Council, Sustainable Fisheries Partnership, World Wildlife Fund, Fishery Improvement Project, Seafood Task Force, FishChoice and Stronger America Through Seafood.

Social r esponsibility is at top of mind--all the time.

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VENDOR PROFILE

Car gill

MINNESOTA-BASED COMPANY FOCUSES ON CLIMATE CHANGE, FARMER LIVELIHOODS, FOOD SECURITY AND MORE.

by Ari Bendersky

For more than 150 years, Cargill, which employs more than 160,000 people in 70 countries, has become one of the world’s largest corporations focused on food agriculture, nutrition and risk management.

T

o help relieve pressure on wild fish populations, like salmon and anchovies, Cargill has introduced its omega-3 canola oil. The company works with Canadian canola farmers on a soil health program that reduces greenhouse gas emissions, improves water quality and supports honeybee health. Cargill also launched BeefUp Sustainability, a program to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 30 percent by 2030.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

COMMUNITY OUTREACH

Cargill works to transform its agricultural supply chain to reduce supply-chain emissions by 30 percent and be deforestation free by 2030. Globally, Cargill works to improve farmer livelihoods; achieve sustainable water management; and reduce food insecurity and provide access to nutritious and affordable food.

Through its partnership with Meal Connect, Cargill has diverted thousands of pounds of food from landfill to Feeding America Food banks.

SPRING 2020 | 13

VENDOR PROFILE

For emost Farms

THE WISCONSIN-BASED MILK SOLIDS PROCESSING COOPERATIVE IS ON A MISSION TO IMPROVE ENVIRONMENTAL PRACTICES

by Victor Ozols

Founded in 1995, Foremost Farms is more than just a company, it’s a cooperative owned and controlled by the dairy farmers who produce its milk. With 12 plants in its network representing more than one thousand jobs, it produces dairy products for consumers around the world, including premium Wisconsin cheese, sweet cream butter and bulk fluid milk.

T

he cooperative is making strides throughout its business lines in promoting responsible stewardship of the environment and the success of its member-owners. Its strategy for sustainability spans the industry, with an emphasis on environmental conservation and food safety.

Ongoing programs aim to improve animal feed, decrease energy and water use, and cut greenhouse gas emissions. Foremost Farms can also boast of its dedication to the highest quality animal care, with 100 percent participation in the National Dairy F.A.R.M. program: Farmers Assuring Responsible Management.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

S US TAI N AB I L I T Y P R AC TIC E S

Its goal is to “show tangible continuous improvements in animal care, environmental conservation, food safety and other practices.”

FOREMOST FARMS MEMBER-OWNERS: • Used 16 percent less energy than the national average • Produced 33 percent less greenhouse gas emissions per unit

FOREMOST EMPLOYEES PARTICIPATE IN FOOD PANTRY DONATION DRIVES, SCHOLARSHIP FUNDS, A HOLIDAY GIVING TREE AND MORE.

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VENDOR PROFILE

Gills Onions

THIS GROWER/PROCESSOR CONVERTS ONION JUICE TO ELECTRICITY TO KEEP THE LIGHTS ON AT THEIR FACILITY.

by Ari Bendersky

The family-owned onion farm and processing facility opened for business in Oxnard, Ca., in 1983.

Gills Onions has always prioritized sustainable accountability “from seed to table.” With 1.5 million pounds of waste created weekly from every three million pounds of raw product, owner Steve Gills realized that his facility needed a sustainable waste management system to be truly environmentally responsible.

I

n 2006, Steve Gills researched sustainable waste management options and decided on an anaerobic digestion system, which could convert onion juice to biogas. For three years, he worked with the University of California, Davis to create the Advanced Energy Recovery System (AERS), a nine-step process that turns juice to methane, then converts that to electricity used to run the plant. Solids, meanwhile, are repurposed for cattle feed.

solution in partnership with the University of California, Davis. Awards include 2010 Green California Leadership Award, 2009 Governor’s Environmental and Economic Leadership Award (GEELA) and the 2010 Grand Conceptor Award from American Council of Engineering Companies (ACEC).

He spent $9.5 million ($4.8 million net after incentives) from 2006 to 2009 developing an anaerobic digestion waste management

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY Gills provides the highest-quality onion products with lowest environmental impact. The company uses innovative methods that maximize operating efficiencies in all areas of its business.

SPRING 2020 | 15

VENDOR PROFILE

High Liner Foods

LEADING THE WAY IN SUSTAINABLE, RESPONSIBLE AQUACULTURE

by Victor Ozols

The High Liner brand was launched in 1926, but the company was founded under a different name in 1899 in Nova Scotia, where it still keeps its Canadian headquarters. After a slew of acquisitions between 2007-2017, it now is one of the largest value-added frozen seafood companies, with more than 1,200 employees. The company has been sustainable since 2012.

H

igh Liner Foods uses its high-profile influence to support ethical treatment of all workers, including those who work for supply partners and to nudge suppliers toward adopting sustainable and environmentally responsible practices. The company announced in 2012 that it would only work with suppliers that had a map to becoming certified sustainable.

“High Liner Foods feels a profound responsibility to our oceans, our planet and the communities around the world that support our supply chain,” says Bill DiMento, vice president of corporate sustainability and government affairs.

COMMUNITY OUTREACH As a founding sponsor of the Stronger America through Seafood Coalition, High Liner helps advocate for positively regulated, responsible aquaculture in the United States. The company is also a partner of Ocean Trust, sustaining the oceans and coastal communities.

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S US TAI N AB I L I T Y P R AC TIC E S • Only sources from certified sustainable aquaculture farms (since 2013) • Champions ethical working conditions for suppliers as well as employees

VENDOR PROFILE

Super ior Fresh A MODEL FOR THE FUTURE

by David Salvi

High-quality Atlantic salmon and leafy greens from the middle of Wisconsin? You’d better believe it. Superior Fresh’s aquaponics model is the definition of sustainable farming.

S

uperior Fresh, the first indoor Atlantic salmon farm in the United States, grows millions of pounds of food per year on a fraction of the land—and with a fraction of the water of conventional agriculture. The company achieves this by having hydroponic farming growing greens fed by aquaculture farming growing fish. Ninety nine percent of the water is recirculated.

Its farms produce Atlantic and steelhead salmon in the seafood segment, as well as organic salad staples (romaine, green leaf, spring mix, arugula and other versatile items).

Future expansions will include herbs, vine crops and even strawberries.

“Consuming Superior Fresh product means that you have chosen to eat the safest organic salads available and the healthiest Atlantic salmon on the market today,” says Nate Hefti, director of sales for Superior Fresh.

Hefti says Superior Fresh is expanding its model in the Midwest and on the East and West coasts. Consumers will be able to enjoy safe, organic, sustainable products that are close to home, which should solve a host of sustainable issues that are trouble now and down the road.

SPRING 2020 | 17

VENDOR PROFILE

Kellogg’s

THE BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN-BASED COMPANY AIMS TO FEED THE WORLD FOR BETTER DAYS AHEAD

by Victor Ozols

Founded in 1906, Kellogg’s is a leading plant-based food company and a familiar name to generations of Americans. Today it employs more than 34,000 people around the world, producing countless iconic brands, including Pringles, Rice Krispies, Eggo and, of course, Kellogg’s Corn Flakes.

S

ustainability is a company-wide initiative at Kellogg’s, and its Better Days global purpose platform brings its many efforts together. The goal is to help three billion people by the end of 2030 through programs designed to end hunger, support farmers and educate people on nutrition and food security. More than a billion servings of food have been donated since 2016, and the coming years will see even more engagement. The company is moving forward with plans to share climate-smart agricultural best practices, conserve natural resources along the value chain, and reduce global food waste and loss.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY Kellogg’s is “committed to addressing the interconnected issues of wellbeing, food security and climate resiliency for people, communities and the planet.”

COMMUNITY OUTREACH The Kellogg’s Origins Program includes “more than 40 projects designed to increase productivity, improve environmental outcomes and improve farmers’ lives.”

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S US TAI N AB I L I T Y P R AC TIC E S Through Kellogg’s Better Days, the company has: • Donated 1.1 billion servings of food • Supported nearly 330,000 farmers • Engaged more than 135 million people in food security issues

VENDOR PROFILE

Kr eider Farms

LANCASTER COUNTY, PA. COMPANY FOCUSES ON WASTE TREATMENT FACILITIES, NOTILL FARMING, SOLAR PANELS AND RIPARIAN BUFFERS.

by Ari Bendersky

The third-generation, family-owned Kreider Farms has operated in Lancaster County, Pa., since 1935. Its 450 employees supply fresh eggs, milk, drinks and premium ice cream to Mid-Atlantic wholesalers and retailers.

Kreider Farms’ four main sustainability pillars: Waste Tr eatment Bion’s micro-aerobic digestion technology prevents livestock waste (nitrogen and phosphorus) from flowing into local streams and watersheds.

Solar Panels The 3,226 panels on four chicken houses generate 3.5 million kilowatts of clean, renewable yearly energy.

R ipar ian Buffer s These vegetated areas help shade and partially protect nearby streams and help increase water quality.

No-till Farming This agricultural technique helps grow crops and pastures and increase organic matter retention without disturbing soil.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

COMMUNITY OUTREACH

Kreider Farms has invested in innovative technology and sound practices to further its mission of being a strong environmental steward.

Kreider Farms helped develop the nearby four-acre Sustainability Park, which provides the community access to a highvolume water well and a 1/4-mile nature walking trail.

SPRING 2020 | 19

VENDOR PROFILE

l ē f Farms

PROVIDING TASTY GREENS FROM HYDROPONIC FARM TO TABLE IN LESS THAN 24 HOURS

by Briana Rupel

Henry Huntington, CEO/president of lēf Farms, whose growing systems paved the way for popular consumer plant brand Proven Winners, started the company to give the Northeast a more environmentally sound source for fresh greens. Located in Loudon, N.H., lēf Farms provides one million pounds of hydroponically grown fresh greens a year for New England customers who typically have to rely on shipments from more than 3,000 miles away.

Farms’ Bob LaDue has spent more than 20 years developing and consulting on the company’s L ēfcommercial hydroponic system, and it is the key to their sustainability success. The climate-controlled, pesticide-free hydroponic farms ensure uncontaminated product, no run-off possibility and year-round consistency in quality.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

COMMUNITY OUTREACH

By recycling water through its hydroponic system, lēf Farms was able to cut water usage by 90 percent.

The company donated enough greens to NH Food Bank in 2019 to give everyone in Concord, Salem, Nashua and Manchester—all cities in New Hampshire—a meal every day of the year.

Acr oss the w ay, not acr oss the countr y.

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VENDOR PROFILE

US Chemical

THE WATERTOWN, WISCONSIN-BASED COMPANY USES TECHNOLOGY TO CREATE A CLEANER, GREENER FUTURE.

by Victor Ozols

U S Chemical has been in the business of keeping restaurants clean since 1962, manufacturing a fully integrated line of warewash, laundry and housekeeping products essential to running a food business. From dishwashing liquid and degreaser to bathroom disinfectant and glass cleaner, the company’s sustainable cleaning and sanitation solutions are designed to optimize results as well as labor, water and energy consumption.

With more than a half century of experience, U S Chemical is an industry leader in sustainability, with products that meet the environmental standards of ecolabeling organizations, including Green Seal, Safer Choice and Readily Biodegradable Surfactants. The company uses 100 percent recyclable bottles and canisters, along with post-consumer corrugate for packaging. Even its detergents are designed to work harder, with highly concentrated formulas that require less packaging and freight for a reduction in both environmental impact and cost.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

COMMUNITY OUTREACH

Our commitment to sustainability is evident throughout our product lines.

Sustainability is built in: • High Efficiency (HE) laundry detergents designed for optimal cleaning • Safer Choice and Green Seal approved products • Recycled and recyclable packaging

SPRING 2020 | 21

VENDOR PROFILE

Or iginal Bagel Company PACKAGING TRENDS AT THE HEART OF THE HOLELESS

by David Salvi

This New Jersey bagel company celebrates a quarter century in 2020, a feat that takes plenty of hard work and energy. Since its inception, the conversation surrounding sustainability has shifted drastically.

P

er co-founder Dave Harris, Original Bagel outfitted the bakery with a sophisticated 60,000 kwh solar array to power the dough mixer. In the same vein, the bakery’s black roof was converted to white to reduce energy usage in the summer.

company is investigating are: 10 percent bio-based resins from plants, a renewable resource that absorbs CO2; or a 25 percent or 50 percent FDAapproved post-consumer resin, which is recycled from used plastic, preventing further plastic production.

The coolest initiatives, of course, involve those delicious round breakfast bites. Clips, or closures, on their six-pack bags include 20 percent plantbased carbohydrates, such as corn or potato, instead of fossil fuel-based resins.

What’s encouraging about the company’s commitment to sustainability, Harris says, is the conversation happening.

Original Bagel is committed to finding the proper solution for its plastic bags. Two options the

22 | RESTAURANT INC

“I have customers who are asking the questions now, where ten years ago, it wasn’t even asked,” says Harris.

VENDOR PROFILE

P ilgr im’s

ONE OF THE WORLD’S BIGGEST POULTRY PRODUCERS WORKS TOWARD A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

by Victor Ozols

Pilgrim’s has come a long way since its humble beginnings in 1946 as an East Texas feed store. Back then, its owners helped pioneer the vertical integration of the poultry industry by selling baby chicks along with feed to drive sales. The strategy worked, kickstarting decades of growth that have made the company one of the largest poultry producers in the world, employing 55,000 people.

Today, Pilgrim’s processes, prepares, packages and delivers fresh, frozen and value-added food products in 100 countries, providing more than 123 million, four-ounce servings daily to consumers. Guiding such an operation into a sustainable future is no small feat, but Pilgrim’s is driven by a mission of becoming “the best and most respected company in the industry.” Its 2020 sustainability goals are anchored by three pillars: resource use and emissions management, supply chain, animal welfare, and worker health and safety.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

S US TAI N AB I L I T Y P R AC TIC E S

We believe sustainability involves improving short- and long-term profitability by managing economic, social and environmental factors.

From 2015-2018, Pilgrim’s has: • Cut greenhouse gas emission intensity by 20 percent • Reduced employee severe incidence index by 48 percent • Remained on track to meet 2020 Animal Health and Welfare scorecard goals

SPRING 2020 | 23

VENDOR PROFILE

Signature Breads

MASSACHUSETTS-BASED COMPANY FOCUSES ON ANIMAL CARE, ENVIRONMENT AND MORE

by David Salvi

This Massachusetts-based, B-Corp-certified (company owned by its employees) business set its standards back in 2006 when the previous owner of the company decided to sell. The employees circled their horses and financed the purchase. Since then, the company has thrived with particular operational conscience.

I

t’s very important to us to how we run our business,” says Heidi Keathley, vice president of sales and marketing, to their sustainability efforts. “We want to reduce our footprint as much as possible.”

Signature Breads does just that with things like diverting 4.2 tons of bread not made to spec, for perspective, that would be giving 38,400 fans at Fenway Park a free sandwich!

The most fascinating development is with sugar use.

Signature Breads is moving toward using vegan sugars instead of regular white sugar, which endures a bone char process. Eliminating that process reduces resources and offers a holistic approach to sweetening their tasty breads.

24 | RESTAURANT INC

VENDOR PROFILE

Sterno

CALIFORNIA-BASED COMPANY REDESIGNED ITS CHAFING CAN PACKAGING TO REDUCE ITS OVERALL ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT.

by Ari Bendersky

This notable chafing fuel company, dating to 1893 with approximately 300 employees, has redesigned its packaging to reduce its overall carbon footprint.

I

n redesigning its gel chafing fuel cans, Sterno uses 10 percent less steel (the lids comprise 73 percent recycled steel), equal to the same amount of steel in about 2,500 SUVs. It also reduced its use on nonrenewable resources by 10 percent after reformulating the fuel blend and optimizing the wick size. With smaller cans, it shrank its cardboard boxes by seven percent. Sterno was the first in its category to have USDA certified bio-based ethanol; its product is the first to be endorsed green certified; and first to be UL clean emissions certified.

SUSTAINABILITY PHILOSOPHY

COMMUNITY OUTREACH

To reduce its environmental impact and become an overall greener company, Sterno redesigned its chafing fuel cans.

Sterno works with Mercy Chefs, a disaster-response NGO, to help feed people after natural disasters occur.

SPRING 2020 | 25

VENDOR PROFILE

Tr ident Seafoods

MINDFULLY MANAGING SOME OF THE MOST ABUNDANT MINIMAL BYCATCH FISHERIES, IN PRISTINE ALASKAN WATERS

by Lena Katz

Founded in 1973, Trident Seafoods is a vertically integrated harvester, processor and marketer of seafood from Alaska. The company operates a fleet of more than 40 vessels and partners with hundreds of independent fishermen. Trident’s onshore facilities include processing plants in 10 Alaska communities. Additionally, it operates value-added facilities in Washington state, Minnesota and Georgia.

T

rident Seafoods has donated more than 20 million seafood servings through SeaShare, a charitable hunger relief program.

SU STA INABILIT Y PR A C T IC E S • Maximizes the utilization of every fish • Supports science-based management and research programs for all commercially harvested Alaskan species • Invests in cooperative management to maximize quality of target species, while minimizing incidentally caught species

26 | RESTAURANT INC

VENDOR PROFILE

Smithfield

WORLD’S LARGEST PORK PRODUCER SETS INDUSTRY STANDARD ON SUSTAINABILITY.

by Briana Rupel

With 54,000 employees working across 32 states and five countries, Smithfield Foods is not only the world’s largest pork producer, but has proved itself to be the industry leader of sustainability through initiatives that align with its pillars of sustainability: animal care, environment, food safety & quality, helping communities and people.

S

uccess starts with employees, which is why even Smithfield’s sales reps are required to complete coursework and get first-hand training on each of the company’s sustainability pillars.

“We have a responsibility to be the leader in animal care,” explains Stewart Leeth, vice president of regulatory affairs and chief sustainability officer at Smithfield. “We routinely make adjustments to our farms to improve our animals’ quality of life.”

Smithfield has a robust Animal Care Management System, stating specific policies regarding everything from nutrition to humane methods of euthanasia. Care committees and third-party audits ensure compliance. The company also employs a supplier code of conduct, which ensures those in Smithfield’s supply chain continuously meet these rigorous standards as well.

“To reduce our impact on the environment throughout our supply chain,” continues Leeth, “we focus on partnering with experts to inform our decisions.”

COMMUNITY OUTREACH Philanthropic efforts focus largely on three signature causes that align with Smithfield’s core values of hunger relief, education, and helping veterans, such as the company has donated a total of 145 million servings of protein in all 50 states since 2008 through the Helping Hungry Homes initiative.

SPRING 2020 | 27

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Organic Matters

by Ari Bendersky

Working with sustainable purveyors can help the environment— and your bottom line

28 | RESTAURANT INC

Between local, seasonal and farm-to-table ingredients, more restaurants have taken interest in procuring their ingredients closer to the source.

The more chefs look into this method of purchasing proteins and produce, the more they get to know the farmers and purveyors who sell to them—and it’s starting to make a difference.

2

1

Sourcing your ingredients from places that put an emphasis on sustainable or organic farming shows a commitment to the environment. It also shows an importance in knowing where that product comes from.

That then sends your diners a message you take extra steps to ensure they’re getting the freshest ingredients possible from farmers you know more about.

You may think you’ll spend more if you buy food raised sustainably, but if you’re cooking seasonally, the food will arrive to your kitchen at its peak. Oftentimes that means you’ll buy—and spend—less to get the most out of it.

3

4

“If you have a beautifully raised chicken living a great life, the meat will taste better and you get a better yield,” says Sieger Bayer, chef de cuisine at the Publican [1], in Chicago. “Maybe you use 13,000 chickens per year instead of 20,000. It’s less impact on the environment and less is more.”

Sheila Lucero, executive chef of Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar in Kansas City, Mo. [2] (as well as five locations in Colorado), adds that by bringing freshly caught seafood caught in season to land-locked diners, she helps highlight the work of these fishermen on the coasts while supporting their hard work and, in turn, buying higher-quality product.

“That quality is there because of their mindfulness, fishing in season and following the lines of quotas of seasonality of seafood,” Lucero says. “When you adhere to those things and are mindful, you support

people doing like mindedness.”

At his five locations in Washington, D.C. and Virginia, not only does Gregg Rozeboom, founder and CEO of plant-based chain Fruitive [3], source organic ingredients, his restaurants are also certified 100 percent organic.

“I’m very passionate about our impact on the environment,” Rozeboom emphasizes.

“While there’s only a handful of restaurants that have gone through the process of being certified, I’ve seen more chefs over the last five years choosing organic ingredients.

That’s what their customers want.”

In addition to better yield, food sourced in season from sustainable farms generally offers more robust flavor, which in turn allows you to do less to the final product.

Bryce Gilmore, chef/partner of Austin’s Odd Duck and Barley Swine [4] restaurants, notes that when you start with quality ingredients, it’s easier to make flavorful dishes. Beyond that, however, you’re also participating in helping the environment.

“There is great reward in sourcing from responsible farmers that employ sustainable practices,” Gilmore says. “Their product is better and you are helping steer this industry in the right direction. If we ignore what’s going on with climate change, it’s only going to get worse and none of this will matter anymore.” n

SPRING 2020 | 29

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

?

TECH TALK

Appliance Science

30 | RESTAURANT INC

Updating your kitchen with equipment designed for efficiency

by Victor Ozols

Sustainability is coming to the kitchen as operators outfit their restaurants with appliances that embrace the latest technology. While the initial costs can be higher than traditional equipment, these newfangled ovens, dishwashers, coolers and more pay for themselves over time through savings on utility and labor costs. We checked in with the experts for ideas on greening your kitchen for a sustainable—and profitable—future.

Plan your space Before investing in equipment, determine how to best utilize your space, says Nahum Goldberg, product manager and design consultant at NGAssociates, which offers consulting and design services for the foodservice industry.

“You want to design the most operationally efficient space,” Goldberg says. “That ties to energy usage because for every square foot you don’t really need, you’re heating, cooling, lighting, taking extra steps and hiring more people to run it.”

Look for the label Available for nine commercial food service equipment categories, the Energy Star label indicates that a product offers energy savings of up to 70 percent over standard models, along with other perks.

“In many parts of the country [restaurant owners] can benefit from rebates offered by utilities towards the purchase of Energy Star-certified equipment,” explains Maggie Sauerhage of the Environmental Protection Agency, which administers the program.

The innovative technology “often leads to other benefits, such as shorter cook times, improved recovery times, higher production rates and longer product lifetimes.”

Ditch the hood Although not feasible for all restaurants, many operations can benefit from appliances that don’t require massive ventilation hoods.

He cited his company’s Cook & Hold and Vector Multi-Cook ovens as examples of ventless technology being used across the country.

“Cook & Hold ovens don’t have any fans, so they don’t push greaseladen vapor out of them and can go under a counter,” he says. “The Vector is ventless too, due to each of its cooking chambers having its own catalytic converter to scrub the air.”

Choose your weapons In a hypothetical walk around a modern restaurant kitchen, NGAssociates’ Goldberg describes several advancements in technology, starting with ventless dishwashers that recycle their own steam.

“You’re actually creating the hot water that needs to come in for the pre-rinse, which reduces the size of the booster heater in the dish machine dramatically,” he explains.

Today’s commercial fryers reuse their own heat as well.

“The new gas fryers have heat recycling systems, so the net energy you need to do the work is less,” Goldberg says. “Then there’s electric fryers where you put the electric element inside the oil itself, which is the most efficient use of energy.”

Even today’s commercial refrigerators are better than ever, he says, with models that use energyefficient compressors that offer significant cost savings throughout their lifetime.

“One of the biggest energy hogs is ventilation, because in the summertime it’s sucking air conditioning out, and in the winter, it’s sucking heat out,” says Robert Simmelink, senior corporate chef with foodservice equipment maker Alto-Shaam.

“You shrink that hood, you start to save the environment, you start to save your costs.”

SPRING 2020 | 31

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

32 | RESTAURANT INC

Green P wer

by Victor Ozols

Restaurateurs are finding highand low-tech ways to save the earth and reduce costs

A growing number of diners are looking for more than just delicious food and a pleasant atmosphere when they eat out.

They want sustainability as well.

Forward-thinking restaurateurs across the country are responding with initiatives that reduce their environmental footprint while bolstering the bottom line.

“If you look at food, transportation and energy, there are multi-billion-dollar indicators” that consumers want greener alternatives, according to Michael Oshman, CEO/founder of the nonprofit Green Restaurant Association. “It’s not just these surveys where consumers are saying they want this, they’re talking with their pocketbooks.”

A million little pieces At GRA-certified Rifrullo Café in Brookline, Mass., owner Colleen Suhanosky works to reduce waste and boost efficiency throughout her business—strengthening bonds with her customers in the process.

“The bits and pieces we’ve done add up to a big change,” she says, citing a focus on reducing packaging, eliminating single-use plastics, producing less food waste and composting.

“I had our energy company install LED lights in the building, and we put filters on our faucets to slow down the flow, so we’re using less water,” says Suhanosky, who also opts for green energy from the local utility. “People appreciate that—it makes them feel like they are supporting something that is good for everybody.”

Rifrullo Café Brookline, Mass.

continued

SPRING 2020 | 33

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Uncommon Ground Chicago

Here comes the sun

Throwing in the towels

Not even the sky’s the limit when it comes to reducing environmental impact at Uncommon Ground, an American comfort-food restaurant with two Chicago locations. There, in addition to countless other initiatives, owner Helen Cameron and her husband, Michael, harness the power of the sun.

According to Helen Cameron, one of the clearest examples of the monetary savings of going green can be found in the restrooms.

“We have solar thermal panels on both restaurants, which heat our water,” Helen Cameron explains. “It’s the most cost-effective alternative energy resource that restaurants can use.”

The Edgewater location also boasts the first certified organic rooftop farm in the country, providing the ultimate in locally sourced produce.

“It has made a real connection with guests as a demonstration of urban agriculture and sustainable food systems,” she explains. “It’s beautiful, but you can also see that you can successfully grow food in so many different ways.”

34 | RESTAURANT INC

“I decided to get some Excel hand dryers, so I bought three for each location, which cost $3,000 in total,” she says. “It turned out that I was saving around $1,200 a month in each location on paper towels along with the carbon footprint, and that huge cash savings allowed me to do numerous other things.”

Sustainability = survival With a history dating to 1991, Uncommon Ground has outlasted dozens of its competitors, a rare feat Cameron attributes to the restaurant’s commitment to green practices.

“Restaurants have a low profit margin and it’s getting harder to make ends meet. Costs go up, labor goes up, and we’re always trying to figure it out,” Cameron explains. “In terms of the sustainability factors we have implemented over the years, that’s definitely why we are still in business.” n

this is just the

beginning.

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Waste Not, Want Not Save money by using a waste log to record what culinary products needlessly get trashed.

by Ari Bendersky

If you’re not getting the most use of all your ingredients, you might as well throw money into the trash along with those “scraps.” How do you know? Keep a waste log.

A waste log is a simple spreadsheet or logbook to keep a daily record of where you’re discarding food. That could be spoiled produce; extra sauce on a dish; frozen chicken forgotten in the back of the walk in. Mark that all down to knowing where you’re losing money.

“The waste log makes you focus on what you’re putting into a garbage bag or landfill,” says Sieger Bayer, chef de cuisine of Chicago’s Publican. “It’s a good way to guilt cooks to think of everything in this restaurant as a dollar bill. I say they’re throwing my money away.”

A waste log can be used to teach young cooks about the business of running a kitchen, according to Sheila Lucero, executive chef of Jax Fish House in Kansas City, Mo. She teaches cooks to use scrap for stock. Or to scrape the last bit of ketchup out of a container. “It’s only 10 cents at a time, but if you cost it out over a year, that adds up,” she explains. “When you do the math and show it to them, the look on their face is amazing.”

Taking photos adds to the impact when teams can literally see how the losses add up.

“When they write it out [on the waste log] that’s one thing,” says Gregg Rozeboom, CEO of Washington, D.C.-based Fruitive.

“Taking a picture forces them to face reality. It’s so easy now with cell phones to take pictures and attach it to a report.

When you’re looking at numbers like a cup of spinach that doesn’t have the same impact as when there’s a picture attached.” n

36 | RESTAURANT INC

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< Sour Duck in Austin, Texas

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s be honest: Some people interview really well. They answer all the right questions.

Their experience looks good on paper.

You get excited at the prospect of this potentially great new employee, so you hire them. But is it the right role for that person?

38 | RESTAURANT INC

^ Odd Duck in Austin, Texas

Shift Change What happens when you have a good employee who isn’t working out in their role?

by Ari Bendersky

We all know staffing in the restaurant industry has likely never been more difficult. There just aren’t enough people to fill all the jobs.

Sometimes you hire someone to fill a position; likely that person is a hard worker, but maybe they weren’t hired for the right job. You don’t want to let someone go who works hard and has solid skills.

“The problem with hiring unknown quantities is there is not a defined assessment period,” says Kevin Boehm, co-founder of Boka Restaurant Group, in Chicago. “It takes a few months in a position to learn their strengths and weaknesses. When this happens, you have to assess whether there is a position available to better utilize their skill set.”

Boehm recounts hiring someone as a general manager for one of their restaurants. This

person had strong back-office skills, but that didn’t translate to the front of house. The answer? They moved him into a more suitable corporate role and he thrived.

“Someone who is a hard worker who isn’t fitting that role?” asks Jason James, managing partner at Odd Duck and Sour Duck in Austin, Texas. “You have to try to find that position that fits them best.”

On the flip side, you also need to be able to cut someone loose if they just don’t mesh with the rest of the team.

“One of my biggest successes as a manager is to nurture certain talents, but to also trim the fat,” James admits. “If you don’t trim the fat, the standards slip. Everyone starts to be [dragged] down at that point.”

As a manager, you also need to create an environment where your staff feels comfortable letting you know what’s going on, whether with another team member or even themselves if they feel like they’re faltering.

“If your staff feels like you have their best interests in mind,” says Jesse Smith, co-owner and front of house manager at Atlanta’s Watchman’s and Kimball House restaurants, “they have no problems telling when they feel stunted, are having issues at work or feel like they need a change.”

It works both ways, so having open communication is key. n

SPRING 2020 | 39

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Diffuse the Situation In the wake of headline-grabbing incidents, now is the time to train staff to be sensitive to all guests.

by Ari Bendersky

Following racially charged incidents over the last couple of years involving employees at restaurants like Starbucks, IHOP and Waffle House, you’d think restaurants, whether large chains or independents, would have learned from others’ mistakes. Some didn’t get the memo.

In October 2019, a group of around 15 adults and children, who happened to mostly be African American, visited a Buffalo Wild Wings in Naperville, Ill., an affluent suburb of Chicago, to celebrate a birthday. Upon sitting, the group was told by a team member another guest didn’t want to sit near black people. The incident made national news. Two staff members were fired. And many in America shook their heads in shame.

In 2020, we should be beyond moments like this. Everyone, regardless of their race, gender or sexual orientation, should feel comfortable dining in any restaurant. As restaurant operators, it’s your job to ensure everyone who enters your establishment feels welcome.

“We respect people no matter what culture they come from, what they look like, how their accent is,” says Gregg Rozeboom, CEO of plant-based Washington, D.C. chain Fruitive. “We treat our customers like we’d want our family treated.”

Rozeboom discusses this issue in weekly management meetings and reiterates the company policies so the entire staff knows how to react with customers. He suggests all restaurants revisit and clarify their core values to ensure their teams understand how to be sensitive and inclusive.

“We’ll go out of our way to make a guest happy,” says Jason James, manager partner of Austin’s Odd Duck. “If you don’t treat people as they should be treated, I’ll kick them out. I’ve kicked out numerous people for being rude to our staff, but I’ve also fired people for being rude to guests.”

Those sorts of actions send the message that not only are your guests welcome, but that your staff also knows they work in a safe place where they’re respected.

Mark Schettler, general manager of Bar Tonique in New Orleans, happens to be a white male, yet the majority of his staff comprises people of color or members of the LGBTQIA+ community.

“The idea is I’m trying to build a community space, and my goal is no matter who you are, you come into the bar and someone immediately reflects you,” Schettler says. “If you look around and everyone on your staff is homogenous, you have to ask what kind of community space are you building?” n

SPRING 2020 | 41

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Socially responsible waste management leads to a healthier balance sheetâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and better morale

42 | RESTAURANT INC

GIVING BACK

PAYS BACK, big time

by Lena Katz

Tossing perfectly good food out daily is one of the most painful and expensive matters about the foodservice business.

For decades, there was a sense of helplessness: Arcane regulations and fear of lawsuits made food waste diversion more trouble than it was worth.

In recent years, food waste management has taken its rightful place under the recycling umbrella. It’s a practice that can save restaurateurs money, while creating socially and environmentally conscientious solutions. Many foodservice innovators are ready to divert surplus food away from landfills and straight to those who need it, while netting operators a sizeable tax deduction.

“With more than 80 billion pounds of food making its way to landfills each year, foodservice businesses play a huge role in reducing food waste,” says Jasmine Crowe, founder of Goodr. The nationally lauded, Atlanta-based startup uses mobile technology to power an end-to-end logistics solution, allowing foodservice businesses of all types and sizes to donate surplus food as tax-deductible charitable donations instead of throwing it away.

“With Goodr’s technology, businesses can measure their food waste, set up seamless

food donation programs and receive tax deductions for their food donations,” explains Crowe. “We provide detailed analytics on the types of food most wasted at your establishment and reports on nonprofits your business supports.”

While not all food rescue services are as tech-forward as Goodr, even the grassroots ones have cleared the operational hurdles of pickup/transport, partnering with local hunger-fighting organizations and providing tax-deductible receipts.

Chicago-area charitable organization Fight2Feed says its all-volunteer team rescues between 8,000 pounds to 11,000 pounds of food every month and either donates it to local food pantries and shelters or prepares it and serves directly to the needy. Businesses and people have many ways to contribute: volunteering, donating their spaces, helping to organize fundraising events, attending/donating funds or supplying surplus food.

SPRING 2020 | 43

“Sweat equity is key,” emphasizes Fight2Feed CEO/founder Jiwon McCartney. “People in the foodservice industry can lead feeding missions and take on leadership roles to help us get more sponsorships.”

The organization’s current list of sponsors and partners includes Samuel Adams, Imperfect Produce and Reinhart Foodservice, publisher of Restaurant Inc. magazine.

“Companies want to be socially responsible. It’s been a big initiative in the past five years,” says McCartney.

“Many companies are introducing social responsibility into the workplace.”

44 | RESTAURANT INC

If you work at a business that’s too old school to consider partnering with a startup or community organization, note that established waste solution companies like Rubicon Global have food waste and grease/oil recycling programs among their services. With entire municipal governments entrusting their waste management programs to the RUBICONSmartCity solution, there’s really no reason for a private business to say that food waste reduction is too risky.

For a foodservice operator, the possibility of improving the business balance sheet, seeing surplus food go to overlooked neighbors, and increasing staff morale through fun social impact activity is an all-around win. n

"Companies want to be socially responsible. It's been a big initiative in the past five years."

- Jiwon McCartney Fight2Feed, CEO/founder

C R E AT I N G M E N U I N S P I R AT I O N

Every day, in every way, the people at Smithfield Culinary validate our leadership role in sustainability.

At Smithfield, sustainability is firmly ingrained in our companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture. Not only because we believe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the right thing to do for us, but also for our planet and its people. So, from animal and environmental care to food safety and more, our Smithfield Family is committed to adhering to proven sustainable practices to produce high-quality food from farm to facility to fork.

For more on Smithfieldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sustainability initiatives, visit smithfieldfoods.com/sustainability, or call 888-327-6526.

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Blockch a in and the future of

Food Traceability The most basic explanation of blockchain is that it’s a decentralized ledger of information and transactions.

by Lena Katz

Restaurant operators use transaction ledgers regularly, and know that one major downside is that the keeper of the ledger controls the information. With blockchain, there are many keepers of the same information, but unlike with the cloud where it’s all in one place, with blockchain everyone keeps a “node” that they update whenever a change is made in any other node on the chain.

“Instead of information being on one drive, it’s on 100 or 10,000 computers that all have to agree to have the most up-to-date information,” explains Patrick Schwerdtfeger, business futurist and author of tech book Anarchy, Inc. Schwerdtfeger has worked with tech giants like SAP, and keynoted events for the National Pork Producers Council and the Produce Marketing Association.

“Once something is on the blockchain, you can’t delete the prior record,” explains Schwerdtfeger. “It’s there forever.”

Hence, there is a chain of information that’s impossible to tamper with or remove links.

46 | RESTAURANT INC

“Picture a supply chain: onion farmer, processing facility, trucking company, distributors, retailers,” continues Schwerdtfeger. “All parties would maintain a node on the blockchain. A QR code, or RFID tag, for a week’s load of onions gets scanned by the farm, scanned again whenever any of those onions leave or arrive at a new stop on the supply chain.

Everyone approves at every step. At the end, you see everywhere the onions have been and what times.”

With Internet of Things-enabled sensor technology making its way to agriculture, soon sensors will auto-update the blockchain, not humans who might be late or forget to make an update.

Some industries have decided that blockchain is too difficult to profit from, since it’s a close cousin of open-source software. But, for food producers, the potential to improve traceability and reduce spoilage is absolutely worth the effort of creating blockchain solutions, even if radical transparency goes against the grain at first. n

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

LEADING BY

EXAMPLE

by David Salvi

The Coca-Cola Co.: Sustainability? No Sweat

From renewable energy to taking a no-plastic pledge, these 5 major companies are embracing the supply chain.

That world-renowned red bottle has dedicated part of its sustainability efforts to branded fashion. The Coke Store sells hoodies that are made of 50 percent cotton and 50 percent recycled plastic bottles. They promise superior softness.

BlackRock—the world’s largest investment firm— released its annual letter in January to CEOs with a direct call to action. Its top priority? According to the letter, BlackRock will immediately cease investments in companies that “present a high sustainability-related risk.”

With that, companies can no longer brush off sustainability's importance. Yet, several global companies have already led the charge with creative (and cool) initiatives. Let's take a look at some of the most notable examples.

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Unilever: Turning the Tide Unilever is committed to the plastics problem, particularly in the big blue seas, and is working with TerraCycle, a recycling company, to make product bottles that are comprised of 80 percent recycled plastic and 20 percent reclaimed ocean plastics.

PepsiCo: Let it Shine!

Into the Deep

Big companies have big power needs.

PepsiCo announced a power pledge to be 100 percent renewable energy with wind and solar technologies throughout their global operations—at plants and offices.

With their high energy needs to produce snacks and water, they are shining the light on their efficiencies.

Original Bagel Company’s Dave Harris took his family to Cancun for the holidays. When he decided to snorkel a reef he had SCUBA dove decades ago, he thought it’d be a stellar experience for the clan. What he didn’t expect was the snorkeling guide’s “lecture” to the group about the depleted reef life, a sad reality.

“Seeing them then (30 years ago), and seeing them now? It is pretty staggering. And depressing,” Harris says.

Harris took to the real-life impact of a personal experience, leaving him with motivation and inspiration for his company’s sustainability efforts.

Boxed Water: Forget the Plastic Ditch the plastic water for Boxed Water, and take the no-plastic pledge. That’s what Boxed Water is trying to do. The company’s 100 percent recyclable “boxes” of water, the company says, is more efficient to produce and distribute. Instead of reusing, they want to divert the potential 8.8 million metric tons of plastic that get tossed in the ocean.

Patagonia: Whatever They Could Find!

The outdoor-clothing company offers a fleece made of 100 percent recycled polyester materials: reclaimed soda bottles, recycled waste and other recycled clothes. They also use ocean plastics for rain jackets and have since the 1990s.

They’ll make clothes out of anything these days!

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INTRODUCING PEAK FRESH PRODUCE® As part of Performance Foodservice, we are continuing to leverage our scale by enhancing our produce program to benefit you. To further demonstrate our dedication to quality, we are transitioning our produce portfolio from the Markon® brand to Peak Fresh Produce.

Peak Fresh Produce is built around these four pillars to ensure that you will continue to enjoy great produce to drive menu success.

FOOD SAFETY

QUALITY & FRESHNESS

Experienced produce professionals at each location and at the corporate level select the best products and help you choose the right options for your restaurant.

[ADVERTORIAL]

PRICING & VALUE

ASSORTMENT & INNOVATION

As result of our knowledge and dependability, many restaurants chains and other operations use us as their sole produce supplier.

WE GUARANTEE IT!

PEAK Fresh Produce is always guaranteed—if you ever have an issue, simply contact your sales consultant and we’ll find the right solution.

For more information about Peak Fresh Produce, contact your sales consultant or visit PERFORMANCEFOODSERVICE.COM/PEAK!

PRODUCT REVIEWS

No Ocean Required

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Forward-thinking fish farmers are growing world-class salmon in the heart of the Midwest Victor Ozols As the most-consumed type of fish in the United States, salmon is an incredibly important—and uniquely healthy— source of protein. But while wild-caught Pacific salmon remains plentiful in the Northwest, fish farms provide 100 percent of the country’s supply of the long-endangered Atlantic salmon. Located in places like Chile and Norway, these traditional offshore aquaculture businesses grow plenty of fish, but come with their own challenges, from disease and pollution to the high cost of bringing them to market.

Yet a new, more environmentally friendly way of salmon production is emerging. Today’s most innovative fish farmers are giving the ocean a pass altogether and raising Atlantic salmon in freshwater tanks miles from the nearest ocean— bringing them closer than ever to consumers.

“Superior Fresh is the largest aquaponics facility in the world, and the first land-raised Atlantic salmon facility in the United States,” says Nate Hefti, the Hixton, Wis.-based company’s director of sales. “Our owners wanted to create a sustainable model of food production that would address the growing population.”

Aquaponics, he explains, is a system that combines conventional aquaculture with hydroponics. In Superior Fresh’s case, that means fish waste is used to fertilize organic crops such as romaine and arugula, creating a closed-loop system that recirculates 99.99 percent of its water.

“We’re able to take all the waste from the fish and use that for nutrients for our plants,” he says. “Once the plants uptake the nutrients, it in turn cleans the water and we’re able to recirculate that water back to the fish house.”

The salmon is a hit with chefs, who appreciate its mild, buttery flavor, deep pink flesh and unblemished skin— perfect for an upscale presentation.

“These chefs are used to getting Atlantic salmon that has traveled over 4,000 miles to 5,000 miles, so it really doesn’t get any fresher,” he says. “It’s a tremendous competitive advantage for chefs who are looking to give their guests a farm-to-fork dining experience.”

Although smaller, AquaBounty has big plans for its new aquaculture facility in Albany, Ind. Its competitive advantage stems from its fish, which have been genetically modified to grow faster than conventional Atlantic salmon.

“We are the first approved genetically engineered animal for food use,” explains AquaBounty CEO Sylvia Wulf. “It’s one Chinook salmon gene that was incorporated into the genetic structure of an Atlantic salmon, which contains 44,000 genes, and that modification took place 30 years ago.”

Approved by both the FDA and Health Canada, the fish are indistinguishable from conventional salmon, and require fewer resources to produce.

“Because of its accelerated growth we can produce more fish in the same amount of time as conventional salmon,” Wulf says. “Our fish are also more efficient in terms of how they process the protein in their feed, and we have about a 25 percent improvement over conventional salmon in what’s called the feed conversion ratio.”

The company’s been selling its AquaAdvantage-branded salmon in Canada for four years and plans to begin U.S. sales this fall, with an international expansion in the works. 

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PRODUCT REVIEWS FROM THE KITCHEN

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Beefless Meat, Chickenless Nuggets, Fish-Free Seafood … a Sustainable Trend?

Mindy Kolof “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”

Michael Pollan, teacher/writer/activist, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, 2007 The last decade saw many despairing over the future of the planet, but its counterpoint was the head-spinning popularity of plant-based burgers launched at the top of the ‘20s. Add the fierce race for chickenless nuggets and the stunning success of fish-free tuna. Suddenly, the scenario posited by Impossible Foods CEO Pat Brown— to replace the use of animals as a food production technology globally by 2035—seemed possible. Can the plant-based movement sustain the world?

As innovation lead at global sustainability consultancy Quantis, Jon Dettling says it’s a question he’s asked frequently. There’s no simple answer, but the most impactful path may be a large-scale shift toward plant-based diets occurring concurrently with dramatic sustainability improvements to the existing meat supply chain.

“We’ve profiled beef farms able to potentially reduce their environmental impact to that of plant protein,” says Dettling. “While these are the rare exception now, it demonstrates it may not be necessary to eliminate all beef production to have a healthy planet, but to produce less, and very differently.”

At this point, “the environmental benefits of plantbased products are huge in comparison to conventional beef production,” says Dettling. According to recent studies from Impossible Foods and Beyond Meat, their burgers use up to 99 percent less water, 96 percent less land and generate 90 percent fewer greenhouse gas emissions compared to beef.

All set to unapologetically ruffle some feathers is Rebellyous CEO Christie Lagally, whose aim to “make plant-based ‘chicken’ nuggets better than animal meat in every way” perfectly mirrors the passion of her burger counterparts.

expensive to produce. There’s only enough made to feed every person in America one meal per year.”

A former mechanical engineer, Lagally realized a complete redesign was needed in the way plant-based products were made.

“The majority are made using decades-old foodgrade extruders and off-the-shelf meat processing equipment,” she explains. “We’re designing new processes and engineering machinery specifically for plant-based meat production, allowing for lower costs and high, continuous throughput. Our mission is structural change. … we’re in it for the long haul.”

The quest for the perfect plant-free nugget also inspires NUGGS, a start-up that operates like a software company, continuously releasing improved versions based on user feedback.

“Unlike our competitors at traditional companies, we’re able to respond and innovate quickly,” says spokesperson Dini von Mueffling.

Even seafood is riding the plant-based wave a la Good Catch’s uber-popular, six-legume-blend tuna. But it was no small task mimicking tuna’s texture and taste, recalls CEO Chris Kerr.

“Cooked fish has a marked, thin layering of protein, and we were laser focused for 18 months to get this right before even digging into capturing authentic seafood flavor,” he says.

The result: “We’ve created something that tastes great, provides the nutritional benefits of real fish and will hopefully have a massive, positive impact on the environment.” 

“Reducing meat consumption is one of the most powerful actions humanity can take to protect the environment,” she asserts. “But plant-based meat is

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

Hold the Yolk Ari Bendersky Just Egg allows plant-based diners to enjoy egg dishes in all forms without the guilt of eating animals.

Prior to Just Egg hitting the market, people who led a vegan- or plant-based diet couldn’t go to a restaurant and order a simple scramble or omelet or other dishes containing eggs produced by a chicken. The product comprises mung bean protein isolate with canola oil and other ingredients.

It scrambles up and tastes like eggs, but it is cholesterol- and dairy free and has almost as much protein as a chicken egg. But it’s made from plants.

“Today’s mindful consumers are looking for healthier alternatives to whole eggs that actually taste like eggs,” says Steve Heeley, CEO of plantbased, fast-casual chain Veggie Grill. “Our guests have been asking for breakfast and brunch items for a while, and until we discovered Just Egg, we did not have a great 100 percent plant-based product for egg-based menu items.”

At Silver Diner, a 30-year-old, 17-unit chain of chef-driven diners in Virginia, Maryland and New Jersey, executive chef and co-founder Ype Von Hengst has had vegan and vegetarian items on the menu, but added a plant-based menu in 2018 to accommodate more people eating that way. Silver Diner will sell 3,000 traditional eggs Benedicts a month; since adding a Just Egg Benedict, which also includes roasted tomatoes, fresh spinach and tempeh bacon for a smoky flavor, they sell about

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50 percent as many. For Von Hengst, it signals a demand from his customers and a reason to experiment with Just Egg in other dishes.

“It has a beautiful, silky flavor, the same color and texture [as chicken eggs],” Von Hengst says. “I’ve prepared them side by side with a little oil on the flat top and people at first glance can’t taste the difference. We make omelets, eggs—you can get really creative. It can be a total egg replacement.”

As a ready-made product, Just Egg can add more to the bottom line than traditional eggs, but for some operators, the cost is justified.

“They are more expensive than real eggs,” says Justin Truax, creative director of Michigan-based restaurants Anna’s House. “However, the tradeoff is more than worth it. It lets us completely reimagine our vegan menu and add a wide variety of unique dishes.”

So, if you have numerous egg dishes on your menu, whether that’s scrambles and omelets, quiche, pad Thai, breakfast burritos or the Middle Eastern favorite shakshuka, and you have customers asking for plant-based options, now you can start experimenting and truly have something for everyone. 

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

Going Green with To-Go Packaging David Salvi If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think this is a hot topic, then you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t paid attention to the news. Most notably, municipalities, counties and states have legislated plastic bags. Another on the to-go packaging target list is Styrofoam usage. With this surge in eco-friendly packaging comes options. Lots of options.

So, what should a restaurant do when choosing to-go packaging? Some of the interesting options for operators:

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Paperboard boxes First word: versatile. These 100 percent recyclable boxes hold hot, cold and wet materials with ease. How versatile you say? The Paperboard Packaging Council offers these “shapes” as ideas: beer taps, candy wrappers, water bottles, coolers and bike helmets. They are also microwave-safe.

Wheatgrass This heavy-duty material shouts sustainability. It’s 100 percent compostable material made from wheatgrass and excellent at managing hot and cold materials. With a high renewable rate, wheatgrass containers are readily available in many shapes and sizes.

Cornstarch Another renewable and sustainable material, cornstarch containers have a high ceiling (around 250 F) and low floor (around -5 F) for temperature toleration. Usually these containers are mixed with PP#5, a recyclable safe plastic, for durability and strength.

Eddie Tancredi’s Distill Table is in Lakewood, Ohio, just west outside of Cleveland on Lake Erie. When asked about which material he uses for to-go packaging, the executive chef shared the “why” and not just the “what.” It starts with the restaurant’s DNA.

operation committed to this ethos. Cattle and hog farms 45 miles from the restaurant are where they get all their protein. Wood used in the restaurant is from trees in the area. No paper towels, only hand dryers are in the bathrooms.

“It’s more about creating an environment that changes people’s process of doing things,” Tancredi explains, mentioning his plastic-free, to-go packaging (no plastic forks, spoons or knives).

Though these practices may cost a little more for his operation, Tancredi sees positives in soft dollars.

“You’re then creating an atmosphere and a culture.

That’ll make the change,” he adds.

“[The principles] bring a better energy into the staff,” Tancredi says. “They can feel proud of what you’re doing. … If everyone can do their part, it’s going to make a huge contribution.” 

Distill Table, which includes a spirits distillery, runs an

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, G M GM GMO O

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Good? Or Just Pure Evil?

David Salvi

So, what is the verdict on GMOs? Well, there isn’t one.

Okay, article over.

Kidding.

Among the trendy words in food manufacturing and foodservice is the enigmatic GMO—or Genetically Modified Organisms. In this case, the organisms are food products, such as produce.

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The truth is: There is not enough information available.

There are, at most, speculative pros or cons, but that’s guesswork at this point. There’s just uncertainty. And there’s nothing wrong with uncertainty because it is important to analyze the GMO practice and trend instead of place a positive or negative stigma.

“I honestly believe that consumers just don’t know enough about [GMOs],” says Marie Molde, a registered dietician and client solutions at research firm Datassential. “They use cloudy terms. It’s almost like there’s not enough context or understanding.”

MOs! Os!

In some cases, consumers turn a blind eye to GMO on the menu. Have you tried that super-delicious-I-can’tbelieve-it’s-not-beef and famous “Impossible Burger?” Modified soy.

MODIFIED. “Impossible” to eat it now?

According to Datassential, the metrics show that, as a term, “GMO” appears on only one percent of menus. But, look historically and it shows a trend.

That menu prevalence is up 193 percent since 2015. More data is needed in the next three years to five years to understand its potential to the marketplace.

Molde notes that because it’s a science-based innovation related to food yield, people are in a wait-and-see mode. And, thanks to technology and science surrounding our lives, these innovations intrigue people at the very least. They are more open to it versus more traditional healthy trend terms like “farm fresh,” “superfood” or “no saturated fat.”

WHAT DO WE KNOW? Operators should know which products are the most common under the GMO umbrella. To prepare for incoming customer “fire” in the form of sourcing questions, talking about GMO as it is now and as it will be, only helps inform the public the right way.

Some things we know: • Beets, cotton, corn and soy are among the most prevalent GMO products used.

• GMO products appear most on menus with American and Mexican cuisines.

• Most prevalent in the Quick Service Restaurant (QSR) and Fast Casual segments.

• GMO innovation produces more yield. This is attractive to consumers due to climate change concerns and food production. GMO products are a solution to curb that concern.

• Non-GMO lags as a food descriptor for which people will pay extra. On the other end of the spectrum: freerange, organic, gluten-free.

ON THE G(MO)ROUND Dave Harris, co-founder of Original Bagel Company, says as a food manufacturer, “It’s an interesting conversation. … You can say GMOs are good. Because in a way a company could produce more yield and food. Or say it’s bad because you shouldn’t be messing with nature.”

For operators such as Mat Lucas, partner and executive chef at Bold American Fare in Algonquin, Ill., the concern about GMO or non-GMO is availability and price. If it makes sense for his business, he’ll engage. The “tag” isn’t a lead decider.

When asked if there’s a difference in the quality or process of a product, Dave Harris at Original Bagel says, “There is no difference at all.” n

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

It’s Time to

Bug Out They may look creepy, but insects might be the protein of the future.

Ari Bendersky

Remember when eating sushi made people squeamish? How about the first time you ate a slimy oyster? Caviar?

Many foods we look at today as delicacies once made us shudder.

So why do we look the other direction when it comes to eating insects?

With upwards of 2,000 edible insects— including crickets, termites, black ants, wasps, Manchurian scorpions, silkworm pupae and locusts—many cultures around the world incorporate them into their daily diet. That’s often due to a need for a sustainable food source.

Eating insects, in place of cows, pigs and chickens, has a significantly lower environmental impact. Insects require less feed, emit way less greenhouse gases and don’t need as much land or water to be raised. Insects also serve as a substantial protein source, not to mention being high in antioxidants, healthy fats, vitamins and minerals.

“Insects are just another interesting option to traditional animal proteins,” says chef Erik Oberholtzer, founder of Tender Greens with locations in New York, Massachusetts and California, “as we all look to take the pressure off industrial meat and the resources necessary to raise them.”

According to the Crop Trust, an international nonprofit organization that works to preserve crop diversity in order to protect global food security, unsustainable meat consumption is a threat to the planet. In other words, if we continue to focus our attention on raising, selling, cooking and eating meat, we run the risk of running out of food and decimating the environment.

Jesse Roque, chef/owner of Madame Roque’s Meat Emporium & Pickled Curiosités in Hendersonville, N.C., thinks Americans need to truly experience food insecurity before insects will fully get embraced as a food source, which is unfortunate.

“I cook with bugs because I believe we will be seeking a more sustainable protein source in the not too distant future,” Roque admits.

“My husband is from Mexico, and insects are as common to his culture as potato chips are to ours.” n

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Great produce begins with

Good Roots

©2020 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C • Good Roots™ Brand is a trademark licensed by Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C.

FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef yvette marie hirang

sales consultant, kansas city, Mo.

SHRIMP LETTUCE WRAPS

Servings: 4

ingredients: 25-30 shrimp 1 lb rice wine vinegar ¼c soy sauce ¼c sugar 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp canola or vegetable oil 1c small package of rice noodles 1 garlic, minced 1 tbsp yellow onion, minced ¼ tbsp ginger, minced 1 tbsp water chestnuts, chopped 1c red or green bell pepper, small diced ½c head Iceberg or Romaine lettuce 1 Sauce (See sub-recipe below)*

preparation: Combine shrimp with rice wine vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil. Set aside. Heat oil on medium heat in a sauce pan. Separate rice noodle strands and fry until they’ve puffed up and doubled in size. This only takes two seconds to three seconds. Dry on a paper towel.

Heat two tablespoons of oil in a saute pan or wok. Add garlic, onions and ginger. Cook until soft, about three minutes. Add marinated shrimp and saute for two minutes.

Add water chestnuts and bell peppers to the pan or wok and continue cooking for three minutes. Separate lettuce leaves and rinse in cold water. Drain and let dry on paper towel.

In a small sauce pot, combine all sauce ingredients except cornstarch and water mix. Let simmer for five minutes. When sauce is bubbling slightly, add cornstarch mixture and simmer for two minutes. Turn off heat. To assemble wraps, place shrimp and veggie filling on a lettuce leaf and drizzle with sauce.

Sub-recipe for sauce* 1c 1 tbsp 1 tbsp 1 tbsp 2 tbsp

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Soy Sauce Hoisin Sauce or Oyster Sauce Sesame Oil Sugar Cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup water

SPRING CHOP SUEY Servings: 2

ingredients: 1/4 c 2 cloves 1 tsp 1c 1/2 c 1c 1c 1c 3 tbsp 3 tbsp 1 tbsp 1/4 c 1 tbsp 3 tbsp

yellow onion, diced garlic, minced ginger, minced chard, strips fava beans, cooked artichokes, cooked and quartered water chestnuts, cooked bamboo shoots, or 1 cup bean sprouts soy sauce oyster sauce granulated sugar green onions cornstarch dissolved in 2 tbsp water oil, for sautéing

preparation: Heat oil in a wok or saute pan. Add onions, garlic and ginger when oil is hot. Cook until soft; do not brown. Add chard strips. Add soy sauce, oyster sauce and sugar; stir. You may add two tablespoons of water if it’s too dry. Mix in the rest of the vegetables, stirring as you add each ingredient. Add cornstarch mixture and stir until sauce is thickened. Turn heat off, then add green onions. Serve on top of brown rice.

“These recipes were created with Asian fusion in mind,” says Hirang, describing her collection of menu ideas filled with light, vibrant flavors and colors. “In Kansas City, there’s always a tendency for menus to revolve around smoke and barbecue-type items.”

“Spring is the perfect time to think outside the smoker and put an Asian flare to the menu, using the freshness and colors and bounties of the season.”

Even her smoked spring chicken gets a unique twist, with a tangy, orange-ginger glaze.

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef jeff merry

corporate executive chef, boston division

Smoky Bleu and Caramelized Onion Tart Servings: 8

ingredients: 8 oz 2 lbs 1 ea 1 oz 1/2 oz 1 oz

smoked blue cheese, crumbled yellow onion, sliced pastry puff, frozen extra virgin olive oil light brown sugar balsamic vinegar

preparation: Preheat oven to 400 F. In a large saute pan, heat oil over medium to high heat. Add onions and cook until they begin to soften and turn brown. Reduce heat. Add sugar and balsamic vinegar, and continue to cook until caramelized (about 20 minutes). Place pastry squares in buttered muffin tin and push down a â&#x20AC;&#x153;cup or tart.â&#x20AC;? Add onions and crumbled blue cheese.

Bake in oven for 10 minutes to 15 minutes. Cheese should be melted and pastry browned.

lobster benedict

Servings: 1

ingredients: 4 oz 2 ea 1 ea 2 oz 1 oz 1 ea 1/8 oz 1 oz 1 oz

lobster claw meat large white eggs English muffin Hollandaise sauce red onion, diced juice of lime, freshly squeezed baby dill, clean and chopped red pepper, diced extra virgin olive oil

preparation:

In a bowl, combine lime juice, olive oil, red onion, red pepper and dill. Add lobster, toss and refrigerate. Toast English muffins. Place half of lobster mixture on each muffin half. Top with poached egg, then hollandaise.

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lobster bloody mary Servings: 1

ingredients: 2 oz 6 oz 2 oz 1/4 oz 1/4 ea 1/8 ea

lobster claw meat bloody Mary mix vodka Old Bay seasoning celery stalk lemon, sliced

preparation: Take a chilled pint glass and rim with Old Bay seasoning. Fill with ice cubes.

Add vodka, then Bloody Mary mix. Stir using a bar spoon. Garnish with celery stalk, lemon slice and cooked lobster claw.

Ingredients from New England add a level of casual elegance to chef Merry’s eye-opening collection of brunch recipes.

“Lobster meat is a mainstay in New England,” he says. His Bloody Mary, for example, uses a lobster claw as a garnish, while eggs Benedict gets a similarly luxe treatment.

“The Benedict is traditionally Canadian bacon, poached egg and hollandaise,” he explains. “We New England-ize it by making a lobster mixture, substituting the Canadian bacon, adding poached egg and topping it with hollandaise.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef kevin nash

division chef, eastern pennsylvania division

parmesan-crusted striped bass Servings: 1

ingredients: wild striped bass fillet, boneless 7 oz blood orange 6 oz jasmine rice 3 oz jumbo red onion 2 oz parmesan cheese, shredded 2 oz fennel bulb 1/2 extra virgin olive oil 1 oz dijon mustard 1/2 oz Salt and pepper, to taste

preparation: Preheat oven to 400 F. Pat dry fish, then lightly salt and pepper. Combine half the olive oil with mustard, then add a pinch of sugar and brush on fish. Place parmesan on top of fish. Roast fish in oven for eight minutes to 10 minutes. Thinly slice fennel and red onion, then combine with entire peeled and segmented orange. Toss with remaining olive oil, salt and pepper to taste to form a salad.

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roasted salmon with crispy gnocchi and wilted spinach Servings: 1

ingredients: 1 oz 8 oz 5 oz 3 oz 1 tsp 1 tbsp 1 oz 4 oz

Atlantic salmon, no bone or skin spinach potato gnocchi, frozen extra virgin olive oil garlic, chopped basil balsamic vinegar orange sections

preparation: Preheat oven to 425 F. Brush salmon with olive oil and garlic (season with salt and pepper). On a slicer, thinly slice orange and shingle over the flesh side of salmon. Cook gnocchi in boiling water for eight minutes to 10 minutes; pat dry.

Reserve. Take two tablespoons of oil and sauté spinach in a pan. Season with salt and pepper.

On roasting pan, place salmon in oven for eight minutes. With remaining oil, pan fry gnocchi and season with slivered basil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. To plate, place gnocchi in center of plate and place salmon on top, then place wilted spinach on top.

Seasonality and efficiency inspire the latest recipes from chef Nash,

which combine lighter proteins with vibrant spring ingredients commonly found in the kitchen. “The dishes are designed for the flavors to create a balance so the operator can minimize using products that are not necessary,” Nash says.

“When using a more expensive piece of fish, I generally will use less expensive products to keep margins in line, and I will keep the execution to a simplistic exercise—to keep the protein the star of the show.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef david cunningham

divisional chef, valdosta, ga.

CRISPY PIG EARS

Servings: 8

ingredients: 1 1/2 oz 1 oz 1/4 ea 1 tbsp 2/3 oz

crispy pig ear (recipe below)* cherry tomato, halved Iceberg lettuce creamy hot chili dressing (recipe online)** blue cheese, crumbled

preparation: Remove core of lettuce and clean as necessary. Cut into quarters and lay cut side up on a plate, so that “wedge” is pointing upwards. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle dressing over lettuce. Sprinkle crumbled blue cheese over top. Generously pile crispy pig ear strip on top.

Sub-recipe for crispy pigs’ ears* Servings: 8 1 ½ lbs 2 ea 2 tsp 2 tsp 1 gallon 1/8 ea 1 tsp 4 tsp

pigs’ ears garlic, peeled thyme leaves black pepper water frying oil Cajun seasoning kosher salt

preparation:

view the full recipe online!

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Thoroughly wash the pigs’ ears. Salt and let stand in cooler overnight. Rinse and place in a stock pot with the garlic, thyme and peppercorns. Cover with water until it covers all the ears.

Bring to a boil and then reduce to simmer. Cover and let cook for three hours, until fork tender. The middle of the ears will not completely tenderize, but the outsides will. Remove from water and let cool. Pat dry and store overnight. Heat fryer to 350 F. Pat ears dry again if necessary. Cut into one-fourth thick long strips. Fry in batches so as not to overcrowd, for two minutes to three minutes until golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels and season with remaining salt and Cajun seasoning.

Sozhou Barbecued Trotter Sandwich Servings: 2

ingredients: 8 ea 2 qt 1c 1c 1 ea 6 ea ½c 2 ea ½ ea ½c 4

Trotters (hock) water red wine vinegar rice wine vinegar yellow onion, peeled and diced green onions dark brown sugar star anise cinnamon stick ginger, fresh, peeled, sliced thin brioche bun sliders

preparation: Wash the pigs’ feet well. Place them in a large pot and pour in water. Add vinegars, onions, salt and black pepper. Heat to boiling over medium heat.

Reduce heat to simmering and cook, covered, until just about tender, about two-and-a-half hours. Skim the surface and stir pigs’ feet occasionally during cooking.

Add ginger, soy sauce, hoisin, brown sugar, sesame oil, green onions, star anise and cinnamon. Continue to simmer uncovered until the sauce reduces and begins to thicken. Remove pigs’ feet from the pot and let cool. Once cooled, pick and remove bones and chewy parts. Toss the meat with some of the sauce to moisten. Top with barbecued trotters and spicy slaw* (see recipe below). Serve with extra sauce on the side. The recipe makes about four sandwiches.

Sub-recipe for spicy slaw (four servings)* 4c 1 ea 4 ea 2 ea 2 tbsp 2 tbsp 2 ea 1 tbsp 1 tbsp 2 tbsp 2 tsp 1 tsp

green cabbage mix red bell pepper, sliced thin green onion, sliced thin cello carrots, peeled and shredded red chili gochuujang paste soybean salad oil garlic, minced ginger, minced soy sauce sesame seed kosher salt black pepper

preparation: Mix ingredients thoroughly.

Chef Cunningham’s spring recipes embody a sustainability ethos by avoiding food waste.

“My thoughts on my recipes were along the lines of nose-to-tail pork usage,” he says. “As sustainability is the focus of the issue, I focused on traditional preparation methods and how they can impact waste reduction.”

One dish even utilizes pig ear to great acclaim.

“The pig ear wedge salad was on the menu at my restaurant for years and was a customer favorite.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef brian funk

divisional chef, shawano-Marquette

Lemon Ricotta pancakes w/Old Fashioned Syrup Servings: 1

pancake ingredients: 8 oz 1 1/2 oz 1/3 oz 1/8 oz 8 oz 6 oz 3 ea 1/8 oz 1/8 ea 2 1/8 oz 1/2 oz

all-purpose flour beet sugar, granulated and extra fine baking soda kosher salt, coarse milk, 1% ricotta cheese, skim large white eggs vanilla extract, pure lemon lemon juice butter

pancake preparation: Make a well in center of flour mixture and set aside. In a separate large mixing bowl, whisk together remaining ingredients until well blended. Pour one-third cup batter onto buttered griddle or skillet and cook until bubbles begin to appear on surface and bottom is golden brown, then flip and cook opposite side until golden brown. Ladle Old Fashioned syrup on top of pancakes and serve.

Sub-recipe for Old Fashioned maple syrup (makes 33 servings)* 128 oz 1 ea 8 oz

maple syrup pancake orange, navel or Valencia extra-large maraschino cherries

syrup preparation: Place one gallon of maple syrup in stock pot. Cut orange in quarters and add to pot. Fill one cup up with cherries (juice and stems are OK). Place in stock pot. Simmer ingredients on medium, take whisk and break down orange and cherries.

Simmer for 20 minutes to infuse. Strain and cool.

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Breakfast in Bread Servings: 2

ingredients: white eggs 4 ea Canadian bacon, sliced 3 oz mozzarella, shredded 2 1/2 oz spinach 1 3/4 oz Choron sauce (recipe below)*

preparation: Preheat oven to 400 F. Take bread boule and hollow.

Add eggs, ham, cheese and spinach. Bake in oven for 20 minutes. After it’s done, ladle choron sauce over and serve.

Chiron sauce (makes two servings)* 3 oz 1 oz

Hollandaise sauce, frozen fancy tomato paste

preparation: Defrost Hollandaise sauce. Once defrosted mix with tomato paste. Put aside until use.

Providing a new twist on breakfast without alienating customers is the challenge chef Funk tackles with his updated morning classics.

“Give them something familiar with something they haven’t had matched with it before,” he says.

Lemon ricotta pancakes, for example, get an accompaniment inspired by happy hour.

“In Wisconsin, we’re famous for Old Fashioneds, so why not take that concept and infuse it into a pancake syrup?”

SPRING 2020 | 73

FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef michael boisseree

sales consultant/division chef, omaha, Neb.

Smothered eggs with pork green chili and grandma’s potatoes

Servings: 1

ingredients: 2 oz 2 oz 3 oz 2 1/2 tsp 2-3

cubed pork ladle of green chili (recipe below)* Grandma’s potatoes (recipe online)** eggs Cotija or queso fresco warm corn tortillas

preparation: On the flat top or in a pan over medium high heat, add one teaspoon of vegetable oil and three ounces potato mix and sear for three minutes. Also on the flat top or in a pan over medium heat, sear two ounces of cubed pork until crispy on all sides. Cook to order two eggs (I prefer over easy). Plate eggs next to the potatoes. Top the eggs with the crispy pork. Smother eggs with the green chili mixture. Garnish smothered eggs with a sprinkle of Cotija or queso fresco. Serve with warm corn tortillas.

Sub-recipe for pork green chili*

view the full recipe online!

4 lb 1 lb 4 2 2 2 large 3 cloves 1 tsp 1 qt 1 tbsp 5 tsp 1 tbsp 1/4 c 2 tbsp 1 bunch

pork butt, bone in or boneless tomatillos, washed and peeled fresh (approximately 10) Anaheim chilies poblano chilies jalapeños white onions garlic, peeled and diced oregano leaves, dry (or 1 lb freshly chopped) chicken stock, low sodium (or low sodium broth) white wine vinegar ground black pepper garlic, granulated kosher salt vegetable oil cilantro, coarse chopped

preparation: 74 | RESTAURANT INC

Preperation online.

huevos benedictos with grilled fruit

Servings: 1

ingredients: Sopes (recipe below)* refried beans cooked chorizo poached egg (recipe online) house-made chipotle hollandaise (recipe online) queso fresco 1 tsp Chopped cilantro to garnish 2 2 tbsp 1 1/2 oz 1 1 tbsp

preparation: Once sopes have been removed from fryer and excess oil has been shaken off, apply one heaping tablespoon of refried beans to each. Then sprinkle one-and-a-half ounces of cooked, crumbled chorizo on each. Top chorizo with one poached egg on each sope. Pour one tablespoon of chipotle Hollandaise on each egg.

Sprinkle one teaspoon of crumbled queso fresco on each sope.

Garnish each sope with a light sprinkle of fresh, chopped cilantro. Serve with one to two grilled fruit skewers seasoned with salt, chili powder and a squeeze of lime.

Sub-recipe for sopes* 3c 1 tbsp 2 1/4 c

masa harina kosher salt warm water

preparation: Mix the masa harina and salt. Slowly stir in water and knead until it forms a dough ball (add more water with a tablespoon at a time as needed in case the dough is dry and cracking).

Divide dough evenly into 20 smaller dough balls and then flatten with a tortilla press or rolling pin to a 4 1/2” diameter. Heat flat top or pan to medium high heat (approximately 350 F).

Put the sope doughs on the flat top and cook for one minute before flipping. Cook for one minute on the other side and flip again. Cook for 30 seconds and remove from heat. Begin pinching the edges to form a lip around the outside. Cover with a towel in an airtight container and hold for service.

view the full recipe online!

Brunch gets a Latin American makeover with chef Boisseree’s dishes,

which combine beloved egg-centric standards with authentic Mexican flavors. “Pork green chili-smothered eggs are one my favorite comfort foods, and the potatoes were something I had while vacationing in the Riviera Maya,” he explains.

Eggs are an ideal ingredient, thanks to their versatility, but Boisseree cautions chefs to have a light touch with them.

“My main advice with egg cookery is to have finesse,” he says. “Inside the shell and out, eggs like to be treated delicately.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef JUSTIN VANHORN eagle ridge chef, la crosse, wis.

Verde taco Servings: 1

ingredients: 4 oz 4 ea 1 oz 1 oz 1/4 oz 1 oz 1/4 ea

beef verde (recipe below)* corn tortillas yellow onion radish cilantro Cotija cheese lime

preparation:

Throw tortillas onto an oiled, hot flat top. Once cooked, stack two on top of the other and place two ounces of the meat. Top with Cotija cheese, diced onion and diced radish. Finish with cilantro and a lime wedge.

Sub-recipe for beef verde (40 servings)* 160 oz 250 oz 50 oz 5 oz

beef tenderloin tip green verde salsa, medium can yellow onions garlic, chopped

preparation:

In a hot pot, add oil and onions cut to a julienne. When the onions begin to sweat, add garlic. Then add meat and brown. Finally add salsa and simmer for 45 minutes.

Reserve until used.

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skirt slider Servings: 1

ingredients: 3 oz 1/8 oz 1/8 oz 1/8 oz 1/4 oz 1 oz 1 1/2 oz 1 oz 2 oz 1/4 oz 2 ea 5 oz

flat-iron steak rosemary leaves, whole garlic powder kosher salt, coarse black pepper goat cheese, log organic baby arugula fig jam, dry jumbo yellow onion red wine vinegar slider brioche bun lattice fries

preparation: Mix seasonings (rosemary leaves, garlic powder, kosher salt, black pepper) and rub evenly on steak. Cook on a hot grill/pan to medium rare.

Place buns on grill/flat top and brown them.

Apply jam evenly on buns. Cut steak on a bias and place on one side of the buns. Place onions, arugula and goat cheese on top. Fold over the other side of the bun. Cut in half diagonally. Fry fries until golden brown; season before serving.

Demonstrating the functionality of steak is chef Vanhorn’s goal with his collection of savory plates.

“I’m trying to show how steak can be used across the menu, from app to entrée, everywhere from fine dining to bar and grill,” he says.

According to Vanhorn, the skirt slider and verde taco can serve as either shared starters or individual mains,

while the tomahawk—with its extra-long, French-trimmed rib bone—makes for a dramatic presentation for any upscale dinner or special event.

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef lou rice division executive chef, springfield, Mo. Asparagus Custard with Hollandaise Servings: 4

ingredients:

Baked Eggs with Smoked Salmon and Asparagus Servings: 4

ingredients:

spears of asparagus butter eggs grated gruyere cheese heavy cream smoked salmon, divided into 4 servings chives, minced

8 2 tbsp 8 1/4 c 4 tbsp 6 oz 1 tbsp Salt and pepper to taste

preparation: Preheat oven to 325 F. Bring a sauce pot of salted water to a boil. Trim off hard bottom parts of asparagus. Cut asparagus into bite size pieces, then blanch in boiling water until they start to get tender.

Shock in a bowl of ice water. Drain and set aside.

Butter four ramekin dishes. Crack eggs and place two eggs in each ramekin and season with salt and pepper. Add on shredded cheese to each egg.

Divide blanched and chopped asparagus up among the four ramekins. Add on one tablespoon of heavy cream to each ramekin.

Bake in oven for about 12 minutes. Remove ramekins from oven and top with smoked salmon.

Garnish with minced chives. Serve with toast points.

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asparagus, bottoms trimmed off 1 lb garlic clove, peeled and crushed 1 large eggs 3 heavy cream 1/2 c lemon zest 1/2 tsp goat cheese 2 tbsp salt 1/2 tsp ground black pepper 1/4 tsp butter for buttering the molds 2 tbsp House-made Hollandaise sauce (see recipe online)

preparation: Bring two cups of water to a boil, add asparagus, bring back to a boil and cook, covered for two minutes to three minutes; drain. Cut off asparagus tips and save for garnish.

In a food processor, puree remaining asparagus with garlic until smooth. Add in eggs, cream, zest, cheese, and salt and pepper. Process until smooth again. Butter four custard cups or metal muffin tins. Pour half cup of the mix into each buttered cup. Place the cups in a hotel pan and fill the pan with warm water about halfway up the side of the asparagusfilled cups.

Bake for 25 minutes to 30 minutes at 350 F. When done, the custard will shake as a whole when the cup is tapped on the side. Let sit for 10 minutes before unmolding. Drizzle the reserved tips with salt and pepper and place on top of the custards. Serve warm or room temp with hollandaise sauce*.

view the full recipe online!

Grilled Asparagus Potato Salad with Sauce Gribiche Servings: 4

ingredients: trimmed asparagus spears 12 oz new baby potato, cut in half (bite size) 8 oz vegetable oil 2 tbsp olive oil 4 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp Salt and Pepper to taste Gribiche sauce (recipe below)*

preparation: In a pot of boiling salted water, boil potatoes until tender, then remove and chill. Brush asparagus spears with oil, then season with salt and pepper. Grill on medium heat until tender; set aside.

To serve, cut asparagus spears into bite size pieces and toss with potatoes, olive oil, lemon juice, and salt and pepper; arrange on a platter.

Top with gribiche sauce and garnish with chopped parsley and grilled lemon wedge.

Sub-recipe for gribiche sauce* Servings: 4

hard-boiled eggs 4 cornichons 12 parsley leaves 1/4 c chives (chopped) 3 tbsp cloves of garlic 2 capers (rinsed) 2 tsp Dijon-style mustard 2 tsp lemon juice 2 tbsp olive oil 3/4 c black pepper 1/2 tsp Chopped parsely to garnish 4 grilled lemon wedges

preparation: Combine cornichons, parsley and chives. Peel and mince garlic. Put eggs in a food processor or blender with cornichons, parsley, chives, garlic, capers and mustard. Pulse to chop everything up and make a rough paste. Add lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper and process to get a rough paste.

“Asparagus is a true spring vegetable,”

says chef Rice, whose recipes elevate it from side-dish status using multiple cooking methods and accompaniments. “While we see a lot of boiled applications, roasting, grilling, deep frying and even smoking are great ways to make an asparagus dish.”

To really unlock its rich, earthy potential on a restaurant menu, Rice combines asparagus with eggs.

“Together, they provide each other with color, flavor and texture differences that really accentuate any dish.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef Jermaine little category manager, Milwaukee region

APPLEWOOD SMOKED RACK OF LAMB Servings: 8

ingredients:

Legacy 72® by Eagle Ridge eight boned French racks of lamb For marinade* 1 tbsp Villa Frizzoni® extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tbsp Culinary Secrets® honey 1 tsp dried rosemary 1 tbsp Good Roots® fresh parsley, minced 2 tbsp fresh mint, minced 2 tbsp kosher salt 1c water 2

preparation: Combine ingredients for marinade. Trim any meat from bones if the racks weren’t already “Frenched” and remove membrane. Place lamb in container, cover with marinade, place in refrigerator and allow to fully marinade overnight.

The next day, preheat smoker to 225 F with applewood.

Remove lamb from marinade by rinsing under cold water.

Pat dry and spray or brush with a light coating of oil. Smoke for about an hour or until an internal temperature of 135 F is reached for medium rare (less time for rare or more time for well done).

Remove from smoker and allow to rest. Slice the rack and serve with your favorite springtime side dish.

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STRAWBERRY BACON BLUE CHEESE SALAD Servings: 2

ingredients: Prairie Creek® cherrywood smoked bacon, chopped into half pieces strawberries, sliced 1/2 c pecan halves 1/2 c blue cheese, crumbled 1/2 c Culinary Secrets® balsamic 3 oz vinaigrette dressing Arcadian Harvest lettuce blend 4 pieces

preparation: Preheat oven to 350 F. Cook bacon until crisp, then chop into half pieces. Layer salad ingredients in a large bowl, reserving some for later. Toss lightly with dressing, then top with sliced strawberries, crumbled blue cheese and pecan halves.

HICKORY-SMOKED PORK TENDERLOIN AND GUACAMOLE CANAPES Servings: 1

ingredients:

Legacy 72® by Eagle Ridge pork tenderloin 1 chipotle powder 1 tbsp brown sugar 2 tbsp salt 1 tsp Culinary Secrets® garlic powder 1 tsp Culinary Secrets® paprika 1 tsp Culinary Secrets® cumin 1/2 tsp Culinary Secrets® cinnamon 1/4 tsp Good Roots® Roma tomatoes, sliced 3 Good Roots® avocados 3 Good Roots® lime 1 Brickfire Bakery® French baguette, cut into 1” slices 1 Fresh cilantro, garnish

preparation: In a bowl, mix together chipotle powder, brown sugar, salt, garlic, paprika, cinnamon and cumin.

Rub all over the pork tenderloin so that it is evenly coated. Set smoker to 275 F using hickory wood.

Smoke pork until it reaches an internal temperature of 145 F, approximately two to twoand-a-half hours. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Slice tenderloin into medallions approximately one-fourth thick.

Make guacamole by scooping flesh from the avocados into a medium size bowl. Squeeze in the lime juice. Mash with a fork or mashed potato masher until smooth and creamy.

Assemble canapes by placing a slice of tomato and tenderloin on a baguette slice. Top with guacamole and garnish with a cilantro leaf.

To chef Little, springtime means more than just fresh seasonal produce; it’s also a perfect time to bring outdoor cooking techniques to the center of the plate.

“I like to fire up my gravity-fed charcoal smoker and throw on my favorite cut of meat along with a couple splits of seasoned apple or hickory wood, with the goal of adding another layer of flavor,” he says.

“It’s a perfect time to incorporate racks of lamb, pork and fresh produce options to any menu.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Chef bill frost Regional chef, twin cities, Minn.

CINCO DE MAYO BREAKFAST BISCUIT WAFFLE SANDWICH Servings: 1

ingredients: chorizo sausage patty 3 oz fried egg, sunny side up 1 ea guacamole 2 tbsp pico de gallo 2 tbsp chihuahua cheese slice 1 ea cilantro sprigs 3 ea biscuit dough, frozen 1 Cilantro lime seasoning Ancho chile seasoning

preparation: Thaw biscuit dough. Sprinkle both sides with cilantro lime and ancho chile seasonings. Press in waffle iron to cook. Split biscuit waffle in half. Heat chorizo sausage patty and top with pico de gallo and chihuahua cheese slice. Melt and place on biscuit bottom. Top with guacamole, egg and cilantro.

Spring comes with a kick with chef Frost’s creative new recipes, which add some heat to brunch and à la carte menus.

The Cinco de Mayo breakfast biscuit waffle sandwich, for example, boasts chorizo sausage and ancho chile seasoning, while the Mexican hot corn and pozale each contain a veritable symphony of south-of-the-border flavors.

“The shrimp jezebel is from the Deep South and is presented in this recipe as a zesty spring salad.”

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You say Tomato, we say

Vine-Ripened to Perfection.

Whole, diced, ground, peeled, puréed, pastes, and sauces—every Roma® canned tomato product is made with vine-ripened tomatoes fresh-packed within hours of being picked. Our tomato experts travel to central California every year to personally ensure the crop is just right for your best recipes.

FROM THE KITCHEN

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Close to Home Chefs are sourcing locally to connect with customers and rediscover their roots Victor Ozols Fish flown in from Japan. French cheese. Australian lamb.

Greek olives. Imports like these have long been signifiers of fine dining, yet both chefs and consumers are starting to see an environmental cost from transporting them that goes beyond their price tag. In finding ingredients closer to home, they’re not just lowering their impact, they’re retelling the story of American cuisine itself.

Cassidee Dabney, executive chef at the Barn at Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tenn., sees local sourcing as the foundation of their dining ethos. Some of the ingredients are as close as their onsite garden, while others come from nearby farms, but all go into a menu that showcases what they’ve termed “foothills cuisine.”

“Foothills cuisine is heartfelt food that stirs memories in people,” she says. “It’s about not being wasteful of anything and cooking very much within the season.”

Diners love the food’s connection to the picturesque hills around them, but preparing it comes with its challenges.

“You have to taste your tomato before you make the salad because it might have rained too much the week before and will need acid and sweetness and salt,” she explains. “But once the team has that connection to the food, they have a say in what the ingredients mean.”

At Wilmington, Delaware’s Bardea, chef Antimo DiMeo primarily uses ingredients from Delaware Valley

producers, importing from Italy only what cannot be obtained nearby.

“The biggest benefit of pulling from different farms is the freshness and diversity,” DiMeo says.

Another benefit: His customers feel good about supporting nearby food businesses whose products are now given as much respect as the imports.

“It’s important to relay the message tableside,” DiMeo says. “People love to hear that we source our goat from Stryker Farms within 40 miles of here. It’s part of the experience.”

Local produce takes on global flavors at HoQ in Des Moines, Iowa. There, chef Suman Hoque draws on his childhood in Bangladesh and travels around the world as he builds relationships with suppliers.

“We started this restaurant so we would know where our food was coming from,” Hoque says. “We get 90 percent of our ingredients from a 30-mile radius.”

Thanks to his location in the food-rich Midwest, the cost of local sourcing has not been prohibitively high.

“The price is not much different with local food,” he says.

Importers “have to pay for freight, while our farmer is half an hour away.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

There’s a Season for That Ari Bendersky There’s something that happens, especially if you live in the North, when winter thaws and spring starts to dawn. A giddiness sweeps over many chefs. And that, in turn, gets diners excited. After cooking with Brussels sprouts and winter squash and citrus for a few months, the markets start ushering in all things green: peas, asparagus, ramps, favas, fiddleheads and so much more. You start getting more lettuces, morels, rhubarb and other deliciousness that signals the start of a new season.

And that’s the key: a new season. By cooking seasonally, you keep things exciting, both in the kitchen and on the plates. And, you’re being more sustainable in the process.

“For me as a cook, it’s cool to see a change in product,” says Sieger Bayer, chef de cuisine at Publican in Chicago. “If you’re going to serve blanched asparagus with steak 12 months out of the year, people get fatigued with that. I don’t want to cook the same thing every day.”

With the rise in foodie culture, people have come to appreciate the changes with the seasons and know seasonal cooking has peaks and valleys. By buying locally, you also benefit the environment.

“By cooking and planning your menus seasonally, you are automatically creating a more sustainable menu,” says Drew Dzejak, executive chef of Caliza in Alys Beach, Fla. “You are working with the land in a better way, lowering the carbon footprint of flying or boating vegetables from halfway around the world. And food always tastes better in season.”

Sheila Lucero, executive chef of Jax Fish House in Kansas City, Mo., and Boulder, Colo., agrees and says while that’s true for produce, it also goes for seafood.

“Things in season, like seafood, are fresh caught and you’re supporting those farmers and fishers that are doing things in the moment,” Lucero says. “When things are in season, they’re more accessible. They are at the peak of their flavor, so you’ll get that quality.”

That quality? It translates to helping raise yields, while keeping costs down. Bayer explains that buying something like dill from a farm within a couple hours’ drive can last up to two weeks. When you buy it from across the country, a large percentage might get delivered already decomposing.

“Your yield is like 50 percent,” Bayer says.

“Maybe you pay $7, but it’s $10.50 and you throw away half so you have to buy two times as much. Or buy local and get more for your money in supreme condition.”

There’s a reason why, at the height of summer, you can get 10 ears of corn for $1. It’s at its peak and there’s a glut of it in the market. You can then turn that into a variety of dishes for the time being and then move on to whatever is next on the in-season calendar.

“Don’t be sad when the season is ending on your favorite item,” Dzejak says. “Be excited for what is coming next.”

You know your diners will. 

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Sustainability & Your Menu David Salvi Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let printing menus feel like a wear on the world

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Printing menus—cocktail menu, brunch menu, lunch menu, dinner menu, specials’ menu—can feel like an all-consuming, paper-heavy endeavor for any operator.

Maintaining them is another issue. But don’t let the thought of exhausting your home printer feel daunting. Partners are here to help with real menu solutions with cost and sustainability in mind.

For most operators, like Mat Lucus, partner/executive chef at Bold American Fare in Algonquin, Ill., looking at menus is as part of the business as the dishes.

“To save costs, it’s something me and my partner went back and forth with,” Lucas says. They chose something that fit with the vibe of their establishment. Bold American Fare, a restaurant that seats up to 130, changes menus at least four times a year. That means plenty of printing.

Paper. Cardstock. Lamented. Jacket. Menu board. Then comes the design. It can be a taxing process. Fortunately, marketing and printing partners like NPN 360 help think through menu options for restaurants.

Not even a paper cut Jeff Greenbury, president of NPN 360, puts it simply. “There’s a huge misconception,” he says. “Paper is one of the [greenest] products you can have.”

According to Two Sides network, a global sustainability research initiative, “58 percent of U.S. consumers surveyed believe U.S. forests have been decreasing in size since the year 2000. In fact, U.S. forests had a net growth of over 1,500 NFL football fields per day since 2000.”

Greenbury, however, warns, “Don’t be penny wise, dollar foolish.” Buying in bulk, to save pennies per page for instance, could leave you with reams of menus that become outdated and unusable. Avoid this practice and focus on the brand of your restaurant, with quality menus that are fresh and clean.

Synthetic paper Something like Relyco’s synthetic paper is a printable and recyclable option. It’s also waterproof, tear-proof and fade-resistant, giving it an elevated feel to the menu for indoors or outdoors. They are also easily wiped with a mild cleanser to look as good as new.

Menu boards If you’re an operation that uses or could justify a menu board, do it. There are several options—printed boards, magnetic boards and even an LED/ digital board (“Much cheaper and easier nowadays,” says Greenbury)— that are easy to design and implement.

Cozy investment If you want to avoid printing menu after menu because of stains or wear and tear, invest in a menu jacket or holder. These help menus last longer and maintain the integrity in your dining room. Slide in specials or cocktail menus printed in the restaurant office. This is also good at elevating the brand of the restaurant. 

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Our Guide to Sustainable Seafood is the Reel Deal Mindy Kolof Swimming in a sea of confusing acronyms? Fishing for the right answers on overfished species? Check out this glossary of sustainable seafood’s most trusted industry certifications and information sources.

FishChoice:

Aquaculture Stewardship

provides complimentary access to a suite of tools to help restaurant operators assess the sustainability of their seafood inventory, track favorite suppliers, products and seafood sources, and make informed purchases with detailed sustainable seafood buying guides.

Council (ASC):

FISHCHOICE.COM/SUSTAINABLESEAFOODPLATFORM

ASC-AQUA.ORG

Monterey Bay Aquarium

NOAA’s FishWatch Project:

Seafood Watch:

Project measures the sustainability of U.S. fisheries through its Fish Stock Sustainability Index (FSSI).

provides comprehensive guides to wild-caught and farmed seafood.

SEAFOODWATCH.ORG

Marine Stewardship Council (MSC): recognizes and rewards sustainable fishing with its well-known certification program and seafood ecolabel. In 2019, sales of MSC-labeled seafood reached one million tons, supported by a 34 percent increase in MSCcertified seafood catch over the past five years.

MSC.ORG

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provides a certification program for responsibly farmed fish, crustaceans and shellfish.

FISHWATCH.GOV

Global Aquacultural Alliance (GAA): offers a third-party certification program, Best Aquaculture Practices, addressing environmental and social responsibility, animal welfare, food safety and traceability.

AQUACULTUREALLIANCE.ORG

Fishery Progress: a joint project of FishChoice and the Conservation Alliance for Seafood Solutions, tracks progress of Fishery Improvement Projects (FIPs), which helps fisheries achieve incremental improvements with the option of preparing for full MSC certification.

FISHERYPROGRESS.ORG

Fair Trade Capture Fisheries Standard: is structured along the core Fair Trade USA principles of empowerment, economic development, social responsibility and environmental stewardship.

FAIRTRADEUSA.ORG

The Environmental Defense Fund: offers a Seafood Selector highlighting eco-best choices for seafood and sushi.

SEAFOOD.EDF.ORG

FishWise: offers a Seafood Selector highlighting eco-best choices for seafood and sushi.

FISHWISE.ORG

Smart Catch: James Beard Foundation’s program, supports chefs’ efforts to serve environmentally responsible seafood.

Restaurants earn a Smart Catch emblem after an assessment is conducted to ensure only sustainable seafood, as identified by Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seawatch program and NOAA’s FSSI, is on the menu.

JAMESBEARD.ORG/SMART-CATCH

Chef’s Collaborative: hosts Seafood Solutions industry workshops, dining events and provides educational resources to help inspire fellow professionals about sustainable seafood options.

CHEFSCOLLABORATIVE.ORG/PROGRAMS/SEAFOODSOLUTIONS/

Global Sustainable Seafood Initiative: a public-private partnership comprised of more than 90 industry stakeholders, strives to provide clarity and ensure consumer confidence on seafood certification with its Global Benchmarking Tool.

OURGSSI.ORG 

SPRING 2020 | 91

â&#x201E;¢

FROM THE KITCHEN

A FEW NEW TWISTS ON POPULAR SPRING HOLIDAY DISHES Jeffrey Ward Ham. Lady fingers. Taco plates and tequila shots. From Easter to Cinco de Mayo, the staples of spring holiday dishes have all worn thin and been played out. But chefs are revamping offerings with bold flavors and unexpected creations at the table.

“For many Jews around the world, the thought of spring equals Passover,” says chef Sharon Beck of Miami’s Kosher Private Chef, which serves discerning clients from home dinner parties to yacht excursions and more. “While many equate Passover with matzoh, matzoh ball soup and the seder plate, there are many other foods eaten.

“One of the most requested dishes we serve is General Tso’s chicken, which literally melts in your mouth, and you would never know that it’s kosher for Passover unless someone told you.” Other popular dishes she prepares include duck confit crepes with apricot dipping sauce, roasted root vegetables and for dessert—coconut fingers.

Chef Jessica Shillato, owner of Columbia, S.C.’s Spotted Salamander, also spins the globe when it comes to traditional fare for spring occasions. Primarily known for the local Southern cuisine she serves, including fried chicken and deviled eggs, Shillato—named chef ambassador by South Carolina’s governor in 2019—turns to the flavors of Turkey for an inventive twist.

Menemen, an egg dish similar to shakshouka, gives diners an opportunity to try something different, yet still reflects her cuisine.

“My style is Southern cooking, but I enjoy bringing in other spices and flavors to put a spin on traditional dishes,” says Shillato. Menemen also comes with the added benefit of being

easy for a restaurant to dish out during a busy holiday service.

“This spring, go for an uncomplicated dish that can feed the crowd,” she recommends.

Sometimes the best way to surprise guests is doing a traditional protein with pops of bright color—along with fresh spring produce, of course. Publican Quality Meats, Chicago’s daytime café and butcher shop, serves (and sells from its shop) an abundance of lamb in the spring, especially around Easter.

Head butcher and chef Rob Levitt spruces things up with tangy acids on his leg of lamb. “I like to slice it thin and serve with spring produce and herbs from the garden, splashed with a little red wine vinegar, olive oil and coarse sea salt, then dotted with pieces of pickled feta,” he says. “Leftovers also make a great sandwich.”

Likewise, El Segundo Sol, in Las Vegas, adds additional color to its usual Mexico City-inspired fare for Cinco de Mayo menu items, crossing geographic lines in a delicious way. One such example is the skirt steak. Chef Luis Sanchez says his inspiration is the restaurant’s love of fusion between the flavors of Latin America.

“The plate features plenty of Mexican influences with some South American flavors thrown in as well,” he explains. “During spring, what better way to celebrate Cinco de Mayo than with bold and bright herbs, lime and roasted peppers?” 

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Spring Brunch Inspiration for Every Menu From updated egg entrées to the flakiest of biscuits, here’s what is hot this season.

Lena Katz 94 | RESTAURANT INC

There’s no off-season for brunch these days. Formerly a biannual occasion, it’s now an every-weekend indulgence for consumers with disposable income and time. But they expect more than fried eggs with weak mimosas. Operators lure them with plant-based entrees, gluten-free treats and platings worthy of an Instagram story.

Eggs, ready for their close-up Instagram culture seemingly never tires of #yolkporn, even while other animal-based proteins fall out of favor. Media-savvy chefs are promoting egg dishes that haven’t been posted literally five million times before, really playing up the incredible edible’s compelling visual characteristics.

“The sunny-side up egg that tops our [signature] brunch pizza is begging to be cut to create the coveted Instagram stories moment, when the yolk runs over the house-made maple-sage sausage, bacon and potatoes,” describes Annie Tucker, director of marketing for Jones Assembly in Oklahoma City, Okla.

Gluten-free sweets Gluten-free bread can be tricky to master, but now that even IHOP has jumped aboard the bandwagon, it’s time for your kitchen team to get familiar with almond flour, buckwheat and beyond. Or, you can do something puddingy, like the grilled stone fruits with ube-flavored yogurt served at Sunda in Chicago.

Plant-based offerings in every section Plant-based brunch entrees used to be maybe a couple of entrée salads, yogurt and granola offerings. Not anymore. Guests want plant-based options everywhere, from starters to center of the plate to sandwiches.

Some menus lean into savory, like the fried broccoli baffle with cashew aioli at Café Rule in Hickory, N.C. Others go the “dessert for brunch” route, like a hazelnut & cacao breakfast cake from lou in Nashville.

Biscuits and anything but gravy While Southerners understand the simple perfection of a freshly baked biscuit, the rest of the country typically plunks one into a bowl of sausage gravy and prices it like a side dish. In so doing, you’re missing a lot of business from people who do not like cream gravy. Just ask Dallas-area mini-chain The Biscuit Bar. It boasts every biscuit variance, from a Philly cheesesteak to vanilla French toast.

“Everything’s better on a biscuit!” exclaims owner Janie Burkett. “We break all the rules when it comes to biscuits, and we serve them all day and night.”

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Operation Reinhart Jeffrey Ward

Demetrio Marquez, a Reinhart Foodservice division corporate chef, is one of the busiest chefs around. Covering five states, including the New Orleans and Shreveport, La., divisions, Marquez (a.k.a. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Chef Dâ&#x20AC;?) counts development manager and customer engagement specialist among his talents, a skill set that makes him an invaluable resource for chefs and owners looking to gin up their operations.

“What I do is kind of a ‘Reinhart restaurant rescue,’” he says, chuckling. “What is beneficial to operators is new ideas, talking about trends and what we can bring to the table. Menus often get stagnant with restaurateurs not having the time to find any kind of solution on their own.”

After successfully assessing Cornet, a popular steak, seafood and Cajun restaurant on Bourbon Street, owner David Karno approached Marquez with an opportunity.

“He had a building right next door and just gave me the keys to come up with something,” Marquez says.

Realizing he could break through the wall and share Cornet’s kitchen, Marquez quickly created a new concept.

Named Huge Ass Cantina—a riff off Karno’s other concept, Huge Ass Beers—Marquez did research and development, recipe building, kitchen training and execution all within a couple weeks. With items like the 28” Huge Ass burrito, 14” taco and Bourbon Street garbage can nachos, the menu aims to satiate revelers after a night of French Quarter shenanigans.

Yet every item was carefully considered to maximize cross-utilization in the small shared kitchen, cut down on food cost and labor, and deliver to the bottom line. These are goals, of course, for any restaurateur.

“How do I walk into a conversation with a potential client letting them know I’m more than just a sales rep?” poses Marquez. “I’m giving the insights and tools, that benefit labor first and foremost, which is

one of the biggest challenges operators always have.

“Instead of buying a whole pot roast and cooking it ourselves, let’s control the labor by using wonderful, pre-done pot roast by Cobble Street Market; instead of chopping onions, why not purchase the onions prediced? Already I’ve manipulated their labor costs, and we’re just getting started.”

Items that have flatlined in sales, especially if they are high in food cost, are some of the most common situations that Marquez addresses.

“Let’s accentuate what you have, or get a better item that will show more profit,” he says. “And that’s a key thing, that’s what I want to look at, while giving a refresh of ideas.”

In the case of Huge Ass Burrito, the growth potential evolved from using items and ingredients from Cornet’s menu, like creating a burrito from the restaurant’s jambalaya and substituting red beans for refried beans. Other proteins are sourced through Reinhart and prepared sous vide. “Just heat it up and there you have it: portion control, done.”

With 35 years of operational experience, including six-and-a-half years at Reinhart, Marquez is not slowing down anytime soon.

“There’s not enough of me to go around,” he says, jokingly. “I’m telling you; I’ve got my work cut out.”

“Let’s accentuate what you have, or get a better item that will show more profit... and that’s a key thing, that’s what I want to look at, while giving a refresh of ideas.”

- Chef D Reinhart Division Corporate Chef SPRING 2020 | 97

BEHIND THE BAR

7 WAYS TO BUILD A MORE SUSTAINABLE BAR These small steps can make a big impact on your program.

Briana Rupel

1.

Replace Coasters If you’re a bartender like me who sets down a drink napkin before guests settle in on the barstools, you know you can go through a case of BevNaps faster than Mother Earth can say “no bueno.” Invest in reusable, washable linen or felt coasters. If you go the cork route, just make sure it’s thick enough to deter those customers who like to crumble.

2.

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Communicate with the kitchen

3.

If Chef is whipping up a rhubarb panna cotta, you’d better be all over those ugly odds and ends so you can cook them down into a puree for cocktails. See what the kitchen has on the docket for the week and get creative using their waste to your bar menu’s advantage.

Check Your Supply Chain Are the companies you’re doing business with in line with your bar’s values? Could you be supporting a more local distillery instead of getting every trending spirit around the world?

It’s worth scrolling through your product mix to see where you can tighten up.

7.

There’s more pressure than ever on F&B to go green. While flipping your already well-oiled

establishment

overnight

into a zero-waste utopia is unrealistic, sustainability

isn’t

an

all-or-nothing

game. Make an immediate impact at your operation with these seven small steps and save money while you’re at it.

4.

Conserve citrus If you’ve ever juiced citrus, you’ve cringed at how fast you can cruise through entire cases of lemons and limes. There’s no substitute for fresh citrus in a shaken craft cocktail—it’s as essential as the booze—but get the most out of pricey citrus by peeling ALL fruit before juicing, then adding peels to cambros of sugar for your own oleo-saccharum for use in batched cocktails.

Cut back on shaken drinks and introduce more stirred classics on your menu to reduce your citrus bill and carbon footprint.

5.

Forage away What grows wildly where you live? I once worked at a brewery that paid patrons in beer for every pound of hops they had foraged, for use in a “community harvest” brew. Meet up one afternoon with your crew to forage wild watercress or ramps for use in Bloody Marys or pick pounds of wild blueberries for unbeatable syrups. Guests will flip that their cocktail was just chillin’ in the woods hours earlier. Plus, a backyard bounty is always free. 

6.

Chill with the ice Ice takes a lot of energy to make and keep frozen. When we’re filling shakers hundreds of times a night with ice just to throw it in the sink, it adds up to a perplexing conundrum. We need ice, but we can cut back. Start easy by serving water without ice. Invest in a few sets of whiskey rocks to really tickle those bourbonon-a-big-rock fanatics.

Create compost There are endless bin options out there now, so any bar can find what’s best for its program.

And while composting paper napkins, used garnishes and prep waste can cut down on waste removal costs, you can also use that precious final product as safe fertilizer to feed your bar’s fresh herb or edible flower garden.

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BEHIND THE BAR

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GOING NATURAL Victor Ozols

Organic beers and wines step into the spotlight Care for some organic beer or wine to pair with your organic dishes? You’re in luck. Brewers and winemakers are hard at work producing delicious and versatile beverages that complement the flavors on plates without taking a heavy toll on the environment.

“Beer is food as well,” explains Greenstar Organic Brewery’s Mike Cameron. The microbrewery occupies the Lakeview location of Uncommon Ground, a farm-to-table restaurant he owns along with his wife, Helen, in Chicago.

“When we opened, we decided to challenge ourselves and our brewmaster to certify the brewery organic and source 100 percent of the ingredients as organic,” he explains.

“No herbicides, no pesticides and no chemicals.”

That challenge was made easier by Greenstar’s location in the Midwest. Farms producing organic grains were plentiful, and organic hops farmers had recently collaborated to form cooperatives with plenty of varieties to choose from. Even the yeast is organic, with a new strain made exclusively for the brewery by a nearby lab.

Five years later, Greenstar produces enough certified organic suds to keep 12 draft lines going at each of Uncommon Ground’s two restaurants with enough left over for growler fills to go. Beer styles range from pale ales, IPAs and stouts to unique offerings like black currant Kolsch, which uses fresh organic black currants grown on the restaurant’s rooftop farm. Greenstar even brews an organic CBD-infused double IPA called Skyrocket Nirvana in collaboration with the cannabis dispensary next door once a year for 4/20 celebrations. (“That one sells out immediately,” says Cameron, with a laugh.)

For those who prefer wine when they dine, the list of organic options is rising by the season, joined by an even larger cohort of “natural” wines that are more loosely defined.

“There are extremes when it comes to natural wine, some are simply lower intervention, perhaps unfined and unfiltered and organic, while others are literally fermenting juice, left mainly to its own devices with natural yeasts and fermentation,” says Rachael Lowe, beverage director at Chicago’s Michelin-starred Spiaggia.

Asked for a recommendation, she offered Valentina Passalacqua ‘Terra Minuta’ Fiano/Greco, a certified organic wine from Puglia, Italy.

“This wine is made by a woman who is very forward thinking for the region, makes wine in extremely lowintervention ways, and does not fine or filter, leaving a lot of character,” she explains. “It is extremely aromatic, with notes of peach, white flower, lemon and mango.” 

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BEHIND THE BAR

SUCCESS BEYOND SPIRITS Briana Rupel

Planet, people and profit prosper at Minnesota’s Vikre Distillery The U.S. craft distillery industry continues to expand. In 2018 alone, the industry saw a 15.5 percent growth of new distilleries. While that’s great for imbibers increasingly interested in local spirits, distilleries haven’t always been so great on Mother Nature, especially regarding water usage. Vikre Distillery is looking to change that narrative.

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Emily and Joel Vikre opened Vikre Distillery in 2013 with a strong social and environmental focus. Having Lake Superior literally in their backyard, the Vikres have always been passionate about running their business in a way that would respect the lake and their home of Duluth, Minn.

“We really carry that sense of being stewards and good neighbors of the lake,” says Emily Vikre. “It’s so critical to the life here, and we know from so many historical examples that things that seem vast—if you don’t pay attention—are gone in a flash, so we have a strong sense of protecting it.”

Working with local engineers to reduce their wastewater produced during the heating and cooling process, they fabricated a closed-loop system that would reuse the same water over and over. After the water heats up as it cools off the spirits being distilled, they cool that water down by running the loop outside of the building, where temperatures almost never pass 70 degrees on the lakeshore.

Though occasionally they have to refresh the system, the distillery has reduced process water usage by an astounding 80 percent. In doing so, not only does this triple bottom line company reduce water usage, it simultaneously reduces the water bill, resulting in lasting savings moving forward.

“Look at those things where planet and profit overlap,” continues Emily Vikre. “You can save money by making environmental changes.”

Changes they have made: Grains are sourced locally. Botanicals are foraged on local, organic-certified land. Bottles are reusable and returned by the public to be sanitized and reused. Their labels are printed with biodegradable ink.

Perhaps the biggest endeavor the distillery has taken on is the goal of becoming a zero-waste facility. The staff ultimately made the final decision to go all-in, and they’ve succeeded in diverting about 90 percent of the distillery’s waste away from the landfill.

“We make less trash between our whole distilling operation and cocktail room than the average American individual,” she says.

How do they know? Trash audits.

Currently, the distillery produces around 25 pounds of trash a week, while composting more than 140 pounds. “Our staff is more detail oriented about implementing and monitoring it than we are sometimes,” Vikre beams. “They’re just such rock stars!”

What’s next? The team is researching alternative energy sources to implement, like solar or tidal, while continuing to persuade others to see where they can make positive changes. Vikre says to not be ashamed to go for the low-hanging fruit first.

“It’s a lot better to have everybody doing some good things imperfectly than two people doing things perfectly,” she says. “If you have a creative solution, pursue it and see where it goes.”

“Perhaps the biggest endeavor the distillery has taken on is the goal of becoming a zero-waste facility. The staff ultimately made the final decision to go all-in, and they’ve succeeded in diverting about 90 percent of the distillery’s waste away from the landfill.”

- Emily Vikre Owner of Vikre Distillery

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BEHIND THE BAR

Where's Your Proof?

Ari Bendersky

Spirit-free or low-ABV drinks can boost your barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sustainability Since more consumers seek out spiritfree drinks and sober-curious lifestyles, bartenders across the country have gotten inventive with non-alcoholic drinks.

This has also encouraged many to get creative with ingredients and products, helping them become more sustainable behind the bar.

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Tyler Zielinski, the creative director at Lawrence Park, a natural wine and cocktail bar in Hudson, N.Y., says while there may not be an immediate connection between lowor no-proof drinks and sustainability, he admits you being resourceful with non-alcoholic ingredients can lead to more sustainability.

“Since you are less bound by booze, you can focus on whole utilization of ingredients to come up with a drink concept,” Zielinski says. “If you have a back-of-house staff, you can connect with them on scraps they typically toss, but that the bar can utilize into making a syrup, shrub, etc.”

By not wasting ingredients, you help cut back on food waste that ultimately rots and produces methane, a harmful greenhouse gas that gets emitted into the atmosphere. Vinny Starble, the bar manager at Chicago’s vegetable-driven restaurant Bad Hunter, adds you should think about how you can use an ingredient two or three times. Spent ingredients may be turned into vinegars and pickles. Citrus wedges cut for service may be turned into a citrus cordial, which Starble then uses in cocktails in lieu of basic syrups or liqueurs. Go one step further and replace fresh citrus with lactic, malic or citric acids.

Ultimately, these things all can save you money.

“By using ingredients multiple times, you need to spend less money creating flavors and can cut down on restaurant waste as well,” says Starble, who will often work with the kitchen staff to re-use what that team may consider waste. “Plus, when you start to purchase seasonally, you notice things become cheaper.”

With buying in season, you help cut down on transportation costs and impact. Also, be mindful of packaging and buying plastic like squeeze bottles. At Provisions in Austin, Texas, chef/owner Albert Gonzalez, who spearheaded his restaurant’s low- and no-proof drink program, suggests using emptied and sanitized liquor bottles for fresh juices, syrups and other things that normally go into squeeze bottles that break down quicker than glass.

“Every step taken toward sustainability has impact, regardless of the benefit for the restaurant,” Gonzalez says. “It’s simply the right thing to do and that makes it worthwhile. I can sleep better knowing we tried.” 

“Every step taken toward sustainability has impact, regardless of the benefit for the restaurant. It’s simply the right thing to do and that makes it worthwhile.

I can sleep better knowing we tried.”

- Albert Gonzalez Chef/Owner of Provisions SPRING 2020 | 105

BEHIND THE BAR

POUR IT ON! Chef’s Cocktail Edition Ari Bendersky Normally “Pour it On!” features two beverage experts pairing drinks with chef-driven dishes. This time around, we’ve decided to flip the script and ask two acclaimed chefs to match cuisine with a range of cocktails. So, what do Iliana de la Vega, chef/owner of Austin, Texas, restaurant El Naranjo, and Marjorie Meek-Bradley, executive chef of Washington, D.C.’s St. Anselm, think about when presented with this challenge? Read on.

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Illiana de la Vega

Marjorie Meek-Bradley

Chef/Owner of El Naranjo

Executive Chef of St. Anselm

Austin, TX

Washington, D.C.

Illiana de la Vega

Marjorie Meek-Bradley

Celery mezcal cocktail with lime, agave and aquavit The basic thing: guacamole. It’s the perfect pairing. You have tequila, aquavit and celery, so why not guacamole?

Instead of using chips, you can use celery to dip.

Biscuits and pimento. It’s a 50/50 butter and flour biscuit served with spicy pimento cheese. That would go really well with the celery and mezcal, which would cut through the richness of the biscuit.

Bloody Maria with reposado tequila, celery salt, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish and green olives/celery garnish Chilaquiles, especially with green salsa with egg on top.

The spiciness from the horseradish with the green salsa will balance each other.

Cream chipped beef. The acidity and savoriness would cut through the fattiness of the chipped beef sauce.

Scotch, Cynar, lemon juice, simple syrup and grapefruit bitters Hamachi crudo with a little cilantro and fresh herbs and lime juice. This will go well with the grapefruit bitters and lemon juice. It’s a little acidic, but not too strong.

This would be great with a pit beef sandwich. It has spicy horseradish and shaved beef that’s been cooked over an open pit. The Scotch and Cynar—that smoky bitter quality would pair well with grilled red meat.

Dirty vodka martini With our tuna tostadas and chili paste from Oaxaca, avocado and a little mayo and it’s super good. This dish has sesame seed oil and chili paste, so it’s a little spicy and it goes well with the martini and the olive juice.

Oysters! I’m obsessed with oysters and dirty martinis. You have the salinity from the oysters, olive juice and vodka and it’s all ice cold. Salt and vodka go so well together.

Campari with fresh fennel, simple syrup and lemon juice with sparkling wine floater A three-cheese pizza. It goes with the theme of the fennel and the sparkling wine. Campari is a strong aperitif, so it’s a good appetite starter.

Pepperoni pizza. I love Aperol spritz with pepperoni pizza. This drink reminds me of that. The bitter Campari, sweetness of simple syrup and fattiness of cheese pizza and pepperoni go well together.

Mint Julep twist with fresh mint, Cognac, simple syrup, water, Angostura bitters Tostones—fried plantains topped with crab salad. The crab could be mixed with some herbs like mint to help pull the flavor out in the drink.

Spicy Thai green curry. The sweetness would balance the heat and the mint would bring it all together. 

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BEHIND THE BAR

BURSTING OPEN Victor Ozols

A fresh crop of spring cocktails welcomes the season with a garden of flavors Spring’s milder weather brings a change in cocktail menus as bartenders migrate from full-bodied fireside sippers to lighter recipes that burst with fresh flavors. Here, the experts share their best ideas for the spring holiday—or any day you need some liquid sunshine.

Father’s Day: Highland Tonic 1 - 1/2 oz 1 - 1/2 oz 1/2 oz 4 oz

roasted poblano pepper-infused Roca Patron Blanco tequila celery juice lime juice Fever-Tree citrus tonic pinch of citrus salt

Build drink in a highball glass. Garnish with shredded celery.

The Highland Tonic is a great spring drink. The fresh celery juice complements the smoky roasted poblano pepper flavors and the citrus notes of the tonic water.

- Ignacio “Nacho” Jimenez, Ghost Donkey, New York

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Derby Day: Charles Dickens “Enchanting” Mint Julep 1 dropper 12 drops 1/2 oz 3 oz 14 oz

18% saline solution 6% citric acid

2 drops

18% saline solution

Giffard apricot brandy

2 oz

cucumber-and-dill infused Plymouth gin

Mint syrup

1 oz

dry vermouth

Woodford Reserve bourbon

Pour all ingredients into a punch bowl and fill halfway with ice. Swizzle aggressively to chill and dilute. Top with a mound of cobbled ice and garnish with healthy sprigs of mint and a variety of flowers. Express a lemon peel and discard. Serve with long straws.

I love this large-format version. Every bar in the South has a julep, but I haven’t seen any batched. It’s a little tiki, almost— maybe Kentiki?

- Jonathan Laurel, West Main Crafting Co., Lexington, Ky.

Cinco de Mayo: Guayaba Margarita 2 oz

Santera Reposado tequila

1 oz

Guava-infused agave (mix 1 cup guava nectar and 1 cup agave nectar)

1 oz

Mother’s Day: Cucumberton

fresh lime juice

Add all ingredients to a shaker. Shake and strain into rocks glass over fresh ice.

Garnish with a slice of guava.

Mexican guayaba or guava is a year-round ingredient with a fragrant tropical aroma.

I choose to mix it with Santera Reposado in this springtime margarita. The balance of the citrus peel and mild oak flavor of the tequila plays well with the guayaba’s unique character.

- Nate Fishman, Liquor Lab, New York

1/2 oz

Cocchi Americano

1/4 oz

thyme-infused Cointreau

2 dashes

fragrant bitters

Shake all ingredients together and pour into a frozen glass. Garnish by floating a thin cucumber slice on top.

A whimsical play on the classic dry martini cocktail, the Cucumberton has beautiful light notes of early spring garden vegetables.

– Jonathan Laurel

Easter Brunch: Partner Sangria 2 dashes

Regan’s orange bitters

1/4 oz

rich syrup

3/4 oz

Partner sweet vermouth

2 oz

rosé wine

2 oz

tonic orange twist

Combine all ingredients in wine glass. Add ice and stir. Garnish with orange twist and any variety of fruit.

Fruity, crisp, refreshing and low-ABV, this is perfect for day drinking in the springtime.

Dehydrated fruit such as lemons, limes or blood oranges make a great garnish that stays shelf stable for a long time.

- Sam Montgomery, Bottle & Bond Kitchen, Bardstown, Ky. 

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BEHIND THE BAR

BURSTING OPEN Reclaiming Vermouth’s Place on our Palate Victor Ozols

A fresh crop of spring cocktails welcomes the season with a garden of flavors

Spring’s milder weather brings a change in cocktail menus as bartenders migrate from full-bodied fireside sippers to lighter recipes that burst with fresh flavors. Here, the experts share their best ideas for the spring holiday—or any day you need some liquid sunshine.

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Briana Rupel

My first nip of vermouth came out of a dusty green bottle as sort of a dare. It stung my palate like sour vinegar, and I swore someone had fooled me with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and gasoline. They hadn’t.

Of course, I’d find myself a decade later again with a nose full of vermouth—this time at a respectable tasting—except now there were flowers and berries dancing in my nostrils. There was the brightness of a crisp rosé on my tongue. “I could sip this all day!” I declared. It was vermouth. And, to my surprise, it was delightful.

Largely misunderstood, vermouth is actually wine traditionally infused with wormwood, the bitter plant known for its medicinal properties. Ayurvedic texts from 1500 BC refer to wormwoodinfused wine, and Hippocrates prescribed the maceration to cure all kinds of gastric ailments. Revered for centuries throughout most of Europe as a favorite aperitif, many Americans still have an aversion to it.

“When I do tastings, people ask, ‘why would I drink that on its own?,’” says Chiyo Takemoto, CEO/founder of Coquetel Spirits Co. “Vermouth was created to be enjoyed on its own; historically it wasn’t really mixed.”

That is, until vermouth (especially the sweet, red variety) was embraced by Americans via the Italian immigrant population in the 19th century. Ever the innovators, we created the Manhattan because, let’s face it, no one really wanted to drink that terrible Prohibition-era whiskey on its own.

Stored and refrigerated properly, there are some fabulous European vermouths, but we won’t even mix them into our martinis anymore because the bar’s vermouth is almost always terrible. Would you open a bottle of Chardonnay and then sip on it after its been sitting on your back shelf for two years?

Fortunately, several American distillers have created vermouths that exceed anything we ever thought vermouth could be.

BroVo Spirits, for example, makes each of its vermouth varieties from a base of single varietal wines. It’s then fortified with a little high-proof spirit and aromatized in the tradition done for centuries, with different herbs, roots and botanicals.

“What Mhairi [Voelsgen, CEO of BroVo Spirits] does is really celebrate the wine base,” explains Takemoto. “Since they are using high-quality wines, they really want to be thoughtful about what they’re aromatizing it with, so they’re choosing things that would pair nicely with the actual wine.” BroVo collaborates with bartenders to create their vermouths, which means they also ensure that their creation has enough depth of flavor to be versatile in countless applications.

One of Takemoto’s favorite ways to introduce newcomers to vermouth is by offering flights to highlight its variance based on regionality and terroir. “Most consumers only know sweet or dry,” she says, “so they’re like, ‘wow!’ It gives people a chance to think about vermouth in a way they think of wine.” 

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BREAKING BREAD

Full Hearts, Full Plates:

Reinhart Chefs Weave a Legacy Mindy Kolof

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Here’s the beautiful truth about food: When made by a gifted chef, it can heal bodies, nourish souls and connect communities. Meet three Reinhart culinarians whose capable hands and giving hearts are making a difference.

Community Servings, evolving from a heartfelt effort in 1990 to deliver dinners to 30 local HIV patients to an award-winning regional program supplying nutrition education, job training and 325,000 meals annually, was a natural fit for Bostonian chef Jeff Merry. He’s spent more than a decade helping out in the organization’s Teaching Kitchen, providing marketable skills to give a second chance to people who have “fallen through the cracks” due to drugs, alcohol or homelessness.

“I’ve been given opportunities that many haven’t, and I’m incredibly grateful to use the skills I’ve built a career around to give back to those in need,” he says.

Merry believes the organization’s focus on “food as medicine,” preparing tailored meals for clients battling 35 different illnesses, further elevates the program.

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“Community Servings has been visionary in recognizing food’s power to help restore wellness years before it became mainstream thinking,” says Merry.

Chef Demetrio Marquez’s first holiday meal for a Louisiana group of Wounded War Heroes (WWH) at the end of December also began small, but set in motion an event-filled year of volunteerism. Eager to serve a memorable meal, Marquez spent hours in the kitchen with an able assist from his 80-year-old dad, “my personal hero,” he says. The resplendent spread included Marquez’s signature alligator picante stew, deep-fried turkey and Cajun squash and zucchini casserole.

“Everyone was just sated afterwards,” he says, laughing.

Now very much in demand at WWH, Marquez looks forward to adding his professional touch at activities, ranging from an annual buffet fundraiser to an alligator hunt. He’ll also continue to mentor aspiring chefs at the local high school, calling it “an investment in the future of our industry.”

A former teacher, chef Lou Rice is similarly motivated to encourage the next gen’s best and brightest to enter the profession. This includes students who may not be thriving academically, but frequently shine in the kitchen.

“I’ve seen so many kids who didn’t fit in traditional spots come alive and find their way to a great job and a great life,” says Rice.

His newest passion project, hosting groups from the Ozarks Teen Challenge academy at Reinhart’s St. Louis facility, has proven especially rewarding.

“It’s a terrific opportunity to introduce them both to the industry and a world of unfamiliar foods. I ask only that they try a new dish, and no one has turned me down yet,” he says.

Nutrition Exotic Foods

I got into hool!!! culinary sc – Terry

h!

I tried a new dis – Pat I creat ed aweso an me burger.

He the rec re's ipe.

– Morg an

INTERESTED IN VOLUNTEERING? Contact your local United Way to find agencies needing culinary expertise, seek out smaller, chronically short-handed organizations that do outstanding work or consider offering a career presentation at your community’s high school.

Be inspired by Rice, who says “Working with students is the best thing I’ve done in my career.” A recent encounter with a former student illustrates why.

“He told me he enrolled in culinary school, worked hard and was now an executive chef at a fancy hotel. … and that he wouldn’t be there today if he hadn’t heard my talk,” says Rice. n

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Are You Covered?

Can’t Top this.

Ahh the age-old fight…pepperoni, sausage, veggie, margherita or Hawaiian? Make the debate even more difficult with Roma® pizza toppings. We source the best options so your customers can choose from any number of combinations.

BREAKING BREAD

KEEPING IT

How community gardens, farms and other organizations step up to the plate.

Danielle Harling

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For decades, food insecurity has plagued families across the nation. Despite a 2018 study from the United States Department of Agriculture, which reveals a minor increase in food security in the United States (from 88.2 percent in 2017 to 88.9 percent in 2018), food banks are seeing an abundance of clients. In 2018, Second Harvest Food Bank of Central Florida distributed nearly 60 million meals to partner programs. Among these partner programs were food pantries, soup kitchens, women’s shelters and more.

Further north in Michigan is Gleaners, a food bank that provides meals, thanks in part to the assistance of donations from grocers, local gardens and other local providers. On average, this Michigan-based food bank, which has five distribution centers, gives out 96,000 meals each day.

As food banks continue to see a steady stream of clients, a number of community gardens, farms and other organizations are stepping up to the plate as they partner and provide for their local food banks and food pantries.

One such organization is Garfield Produce Company, an indoor vertical farm located in Chicago. Prior to branching out to food distributors, Garfield Produce worked primarily with restaurants and caterers within the state of Illinois. Not only does the farm donate its unsold produce to the food pantry at Breakthrough Urban Ministries, a nearby shelter in East Garfield Park, it is one of few businesses willing to hire those with a criminal record.

Keep Growing Detroit, a company striving to change the narrative of urban cities that have become food deserts, has garnered relationships with both restaurants and urban gardeners. While Keep Growing Detroit has connected with food pantries in its region, the organization’s main goal is to equip those in the city with the tools needed to grow their own fruits and vegetables. Keep Growing Detroit does this by operating programs that support urban gardeners in the city.

In addition to food banks, some agriculture-based businesses have linked with other local charitable organizations. Chris Edwards, owner/manager at Georgia-based Elm Street Gardens and Sparta Mushrooms, shares that he’s worked with Helping Hands Foundation in Sparta, Ga., for years, providing produce at less than market. Edwards, whose current repertoire of clients includes Atlanta-based Gunshow and 8ARM, shares that an heir of social conscientiousness is what drives restaurants to companies like Elm Street Gardens and Keep Growing Detroit.

"I think they reach out to us because of the superior quality,” Edwards says. “And if they have a social conscientious, they understand supporting local business. But usually, I think most of them reach out because of the superior quality of the produce.” n

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HEALTHY LIVING

Healthier Workers,

Happier

How operators are stepping up employee programs that foster well-being, inclusiveness and community spirit to make better work environments for everyone Jeffrey Ward

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Restaurant work isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t for the faint of heart. Long hours, antagonistic work environments and a permeating culture of substance abuse has long riddled the industry. From larger companies to small mom-and-pops, operators are building employee relations that foster an environment of inclusivity, well-being and support.

Cristiana Gillies, owner of McGregor Café in Fort Myers, Fla., has been focusing on employee fulfillment since taking over her father’s restaurant in 2018.

“As a small, family-owned business, we are faced with the challenges of coming up with financially feasible, but relevant, staff perks,” she says. “We are always actively working to conceive and increase our incentives bit by bit.”

Gym

Cooking for the Homeless

Open

Team

Such initiatives include holiday gifts for employees, free uniforms and wholesale pricing for restaurant goods— an opportunity that helps take the bite out of cost-ofliving expenses. She’s also looking to foster employee engagement through volunteer days at local food pantries, which also addresses another restaurant issue: food waste.

Membership

Talk

Mental Health

Volunteer

Day at the

Food Pantry

“We see a lot of food waste in our business and giving some of our time and means to those who experience food insecurity gives perspective on what we take for granted,” Gillies says. “Through volunteerism, we hope to inspire our team to give back in other aspects of their personal lives as well. Volunteering is well documented as a benefit to both employers and employees in terms of decreased turnover and increased engagement—in addition to overall emotional and mental well-being.”

Lee Maen, partner and founder of Los Angeles-based Innovative Dining Group, also sees the benefit of folding community activity into the company’s overall employee program. While a full curriculum of initiatives includes educational and experiential retreats and gym memberships at Equinox, taking his employees to cook for homeless youth at West Hollywood’s LGBT Center had a major impact. “People were really excited, so we’re looking at expanding throughout the company, giving people an opportunity to give back with the whole team,” he says.

Sometimes the helping hands have helped Innovative Dining Group’s employees directly as well. Though not part of any official program, Maen says that employees suffering from substance abuse have found support from the company.

“Growing up in this industry, especially in Los Angeles, we definitely have first-hand knowledge of the issues with addiction and abuse,” he says. In those cases, management has assisted those receptive employees to get the treatment they need. “We’re here to help them and guide them, and their position is held for them when they return.”

One tool to help restaurants tackle destructive behavior is Unilevel Food Solution’s #FairKitchens movement, which seeks to build a brighter future for the industry. Its Fair Kitchens code suggests that to succeed, the industry needs to work as a unified team.

Says marketing manager Katie Dunnigan, “What makes a kitchen ‘fair’ will be different for every restaurant. We recommend that each start with ‘An Hour for Us’ session, an open discussion to talk through the Fair Kitchens code and how this gets put into practice.” n

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HEALTHY LIVING

Your

Wellness

Taking steps to add balance to your life is imperative in the restaurant business.

Ari Bendersky

Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doing yoga to ease body aches after a long day of work, practicing meditation to ease the mind or taking a break from drinking, putting your mental and physical wellness first has become a priority for many.

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“I came up in the restaurant business when it was the norm to reward the staff with a drink at the end of a shift,” says Chicago’s Urbanbelly owner Bill Kim. “I was never a fan of this and never adopted that practice as a leader and business owner. I’ve witnessed first-hand the negative consequences and how people slowly start to lose control.”

Kim’s wife, Yvonne, introduced him to transcendental meditation a few years ago to help with stress reduction and relaxation. He started practicing daily, and it had a profound impact on him.

“My sleep improved, my creativity soared, and I’m better prepared to deal with the challenges that come up on a daily basis with greater awareness of the present moment,” he says.

Kim also suggests finding hobbies outside of restaurant life and also says you need to take care of your physical body, too.

Get a good pair of shoes with custom orthotics and see a chiropractor. And force yourself to get some rest.

As a manager, that point is key for Mark Schettler, general manager at Bar Tonique in New Orleans, where 10-hour shifts aren’t unheard of. He limits his staff to three shifts a week. He also offers health insurance and PTO, and encourages people to take mental health days.

“I want people to look forward to coming to work and not have it grind them down,” Schettler says. “I want to make sure you have a full life, so you’re not living to work, but working to live.”

That’s what Cleetus Friedman, executive chef of Chicago’s Kitchfix, focuses on. In August 2018, a month before his wedding, he stopped drinking. He realized how much better he felt, so he stayed on the wagon and put his energy into working out.

“You need to find a healthy cycle,” Friedman says. “After work, find a way to unwind: yoga, meditation, exercise. There are ways to blow off steam. You have to change your culture—and if you’re in a management role, it’s important to set that culture and not buy a round of shots at the end of the shift.”

The restaurant industry can be tough on people and can produce toxic environments that cause people to drink and do drugs. It doesn’t have to be that way. No one needs to feel like they’re going through it alone.

Marc Jacksina, executive sous chef at Southminster Retirement Community in Charlotte, N.C., and host of the “Order/Fire” docuseries, reminds people to check on co-workers instead of telling them to simply, “Tough it out.”

“You can’t keep piling everything on one side of a seesaw, mentally or physically, and not expect to create a slide that goes straight to the bottom or a steep hill to climb,” Jacksina says. “As a chef, understanding the importance of balancing unctuousness with acid, soft with crunch seems intrinsic. Balancing work and life?

Not so easy.” n

HEALTHY LIVING

IN TA

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More and more, chefs are choosing produce that is grown closer to their kitchen, often by themselves. Whether in a greenhouse on raised beds, in growth containers in the summer, or on a hydroponic farm, produce is reaching the table with less of a carbon footprint.

When chef Devon Quinn was planning his restaurant Eden on a sprawling industrial property on Chicago’s near west side, one thing was certain: He wanted a greenhouse.

“I saw an opportunity to limit how much we spend on herbs, greens, flowers and other specialty items,” he says. “These are extremely expensive, so I thought why not produce these items ourselves?”

He soon designed and hand-built the 12’x30’ facility just steps from his kitchen, and today grows an array of beautiful ingredients in raised-beds ready to be used on his plates. “We were able to contain 10 of our 18 4x4’ boxes, and continue our growth program year-round,” he explains. “Each year, we add components to make it more efficient and sustainable.”

With a fondness for gardening stretching back to her childhood, chef Daria Parish of Reinhart’s La Crosse, Wis., division has been cultivating her summer bounty in growth containers for two years.

“We have towers to maximize growing space in the backyard and are currently designing some new contraptions to add hanging pots for upside down growth of strawberries and tomatoes above garden beds,” she says. “We are working on designs for arches for summer squashes.”

Nathan Hefti, director of Superior Fresh, a Wisconsin hydroponic farm specializing in organic greens serviced to chefs throughout the Midwest, leads one of the most advanced operations in the country. Recirculating water between the hydroponic farmhouse and a recently developed aquaponic farm—the first and largest land-raised Atlantic salmon facility in the United States— reduces water waste to zero.

“We collect water that does need to be discharged into a pond that irrigates alfalfa fields,” Hefti explains. “The other half of our business is actually an 800-acre native restoration project where we are bringing back plant species that have been lost.”

Sustainability comes from the heart of all these methods. “We have been looking to expand by creating a much larger scale urban farm,” says chef Quinn. “The idea is to produce a much larger volume of what we use daily, as well as to employ people from our community.” n

SPRING 2020 | 125

HEALTHY LIVING

Feeding the World,

RESPONSIBLY Eat Well Global connects with a clear world vision Mindy Kolof

s ne , it’s ilt . i l d ea tions ny bu truth h c a ’s ay etra omp ished d to ’s r a c arn , no n he rrow ver unv king w ra omo disco the y pic ts. e an me t to ting herr t fac n I co ory ica a c en be elat mun dat veni rev com n, no ncon on spi ing i No scur ob

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That’s the only way communications consultancy Eat Well Global aims to achieve its ambitious vision of a healthier where good nutrition is simply good business. Managing Partner Erin Boyd Kappelhof explains how their collaboration with stakeholders across the food chain arrives at a pivotal point for the industry.

Positively impacting the health of a global population, which faces complicated and widely disparate challenges, is daunting. But Kappelhof fully embraces it as an unprecedented opportunity to engage with the industry’s important stakeholders, using the company’s collective nutritional expertise to influence and change the conversation.

“It’s a truly exciting time to be in this business,” she says, emphatically.

The message is resonating with a diverse client base of leaders in a much-evolved industry, including Danone, General Mills and the Egg Nutrition Center. Nutrition and sustainability efforts once relegated to the periphery are now at the core of corporate strategic goals, giving rocket power to Eat Well

Global’s strategy of working from within to effect change. Most important for this company led and run by highly credentialed dietitians, the voice of the educated expert is heard and respected.

“There’s a huge continuum of quality in nutrition science studies, which seemingly contradict each other and what becomes accepted as true is not always reliable,” she explains. “We filter through information that’s either dry or sensationalized in the media and fill it in with science-based evidence for product launches and consumer information campaigns.”

For instance, the narrative that whole grain foods aren’t healthy is “shocking,” says Kappelhof. “These are included in diets of nearly every major country for their nutritional value. The message should be to avoid refined grains and choose whole grain products, which provide great nutritional bang for the buck.”

Also important to note: “There is no one diet that will solve

the world’s problems. While food guidelines emphasizing lean meats, whole grains, legumes and vegetables are similar across the globe, to be sustainable they must align with regional economic priorities, urgent nutritional needs and cultural norms.”

A number of signs points to a forward direction, including the explosion in plant-based eating (“although in the long term, the pendulum might swing back”); nutritional solutions for tackling illness; and rising interest in products developed from sustainable sources. Featuring food’s agricultural journey will also gain more momentum.

“The voice of the farmer is often missing, but it’s crucial in communicating why animals are raised and crops grown in a certain way,” she says. “The message can be distorted if delivered by others, so we’re focusing on new opportunities to connect manufacturers, farmers, nutrition experts and consumers.” n

SPRING 2020 | 127

HEALTHY LIVING

Probiotics: The Inside Story Mindy Kolof

Call it food with benefits. The functional food phenomenon, and its current rock star, probiotics, is a perfect storm of legacy cuisines, clean ingredients, and new studies keying in on the vital role of gut bacteria in overall health.

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The global probiotics market is forecast to reach $76.8 billion by 2024.

There’s no shortage of bold assertions tagging probiotics—live microorganisms found in yogurt and other foods—as a miraculous cure-all for digestive disease, but consider the facts. More than 38 trillion microbes live in the human gut microbiome, responsible for regulating organs, developing the immune system and metabolizing foods. Studies continue to uncover how disease can be prevented by maintaining a healthy balance of bacterial species in the microbiome and the supportive role probiotics might play in driving out bad bacteria and propagating beneficial ones.

Since 2015, the term “fermented” grew 46% on U.S. restaurant menus;

Nevertheless: “No health claims have been allowed (by the FDA) for probiotics, so it’s a confusing landscape for consumers,” acknowledges Joanne Slavin, Ph.D., RD, professor at the University of Minnesota.

Still, the research is promising, and there’s no denying diners’ growing interest in fermented foods, which are created through the activity of live microorganisms, such as kimchi and kefir. Not to mention kombucha, a sweet tea beverage fermented with a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast, now a $475 million industry in the United States.

kombucha was up 226%

“If there was a kombucha hipster ranking, it’d be at the top,” says Robert Hutkins, professor at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, who literally wrote the (text)book on fermented foods.

As with most things probiotic, however, the benefits are not yet proven. Hutkins provides some clear explanations as to where probiotics can be found.

Although overlap exists, fermented foods don’t always contain probiotics. “Only specific live microbes that have been verified as conferring a health benefit can be considered probiotics, but there are dozens in foods yet to be studied,” explains Hutkins. “So, while you may have fermented your kimchi correctly, it’s not possible to identify the microbes that have formed and definitively classify them as probiotics.”

kefir up 101%

Also, realize that while fermented foods such as sourdough bread may seem rich in probiotics, appearances can be deceiving.

“Heating and further processing inactivates the microbes and probiotics are no longer present,” Hutkins explains.

Additionally, most jarred sour pickles and California olives aren’t fermented, just soaked in brine.

How to satisfy customers’ appetites for healthier options? Start with foods rich in prebiotics, which provide fuel for probiotics.

These include bananas, onions, garlic, leeks, asparagus, artichokes, soybeans and whole-wheat foods. Incorporate probiotics by using yogurt or plant milks containing live strains of bacteria in lieu of sour cream. Experiment with fermented foods such as kimchi, miso (in dressings) and lambic-style beers. All contain healthy omega-3 fatty acids, B vitamins and live microbes, even if they don’t reach the bar required to be called probiotic. n

kimchi up 92%

SPRING 2020 | 129

Alaska Seafood is Chef’s Bounty MUSE/229 PARKS’ LAURA COLE DEFINES LOCAL CUISINE ON HER TERMS

Chef Laura Cole fondly recalls her experience on Bravo’s “Top Chef: Season 15.” It took place in Colorado, filming in various cities, including Aspen, Boulder, Denver and Telluride. It was the first time the hit reality series had featured a contestant from Alaska, and she was proud to serve as an ambassador for her adopted home state.

“Defining what Alaskan cuisine is to ‘Top Chef’ folks is still an on-going conversation,” says Cole, who’s been nominated for a James Beard Award several times for her restaurant 229 Parks in Denali National Park. And though it features many of the buzz words like “local,” “sustainable” and “farm to table,” the food boasts unique characteristics.

“We don’t have GMOs up here,” she explains. “We don’t have infiltrated waterways with harsh chemicals. We are really lucky that we don’t have as many dietary issues as the Lower 48 [states] has popping up everywhere from chemical contaminants to nature being broken down to its core because of contaminants.”

Seafood, of course, is a major component of Alaskan diets. It’s not only abundant here, but it’s free of chemicals, she says. And for Cole, its accessibility really brings out her creativity.

“Seafood is like a blank canvas,” she explains. “It’s really fun to be able to take an under-sung fish and bring it to a different level market or different level of appreciation.” She continues, name-checking different varieties.

“There are five species of salmon, but many restaurants are only choosing Copper River or king salmon...Everyone talks about sablefish (black cod), but we have so many other types.” Those other types include Alaska king crab, cod, pollock, sole, and rockfish just to name a few.

Cole’s excitement for Alaska Seafood has made for easy collaborations with former “Top Chef” adversaries. For example, she’s teamed up for a southern-inspired seafood dinner with chef Tonya Holland of Oakland, Calif., favorite Brown Sugar Kitchen. She has also collaborated with chef Bruce Kalman of Los Angeles’ Knead & Co. Pasta Bar + Market for a similar event that was Italian focused.

Equally important for Cole is presenting Alaska Seafood in the best possible manner. Pairing it with local ingredients, of course, is top of mind for this award-winning chef, who is also behind the menu at Muse restaurant at Anchorage Museum at Rasmuson Center.

“When you eat locally, everything pairs so well together, but it pairs seasonally,” she says. “Salmon season runs through at different times, and you have different harvest on that. Halibut is the first one that has an open season, and when fresh halibut season starts up, everybody is craving it.

That’s in the middle of winter, so there is no local harvest. … so, you are pairing [Alaska Seafood] with lingonberries or spruce tips or things you’ve already stashed away in your freezer.”

A few of her favorite pairings: a spring octopus dish that brings in bursts of citrus accents; dehydrated summer mushrooms pureed, then used to coat salmon; and juiced beets made into a spicy ketchup using jerk seasoning.

These are unique ideas that “elevate the dishes,” says Cole. n

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HEALTHY LIVING

SPICE

Time to

Things Up

132 | RESTAURANT INC

Who needs salt when vegan sauces, smoked paprika and more can take your dishes to the next level.

Danielle Harling

Salt. It’s arguably the most common go-to when a dish is lacking just the right amount of flavor. But as the culinary world evolves, chefs and other food maestros have been privy to a global array of sauces and seasonings that put salt to savory shame.

According to Meredith Hink, corporate nutrition services manager at Reinhart Foodservice, the mere act of replacing salt with herb and spice alternatives is enough to activate various health benefits. “The bigger health benefit is that we are using herbs and spices instead of salt, sugar and fat to season food,” she says.

To quite literally spice things up in your kitchen, opt for these salt alternatives that are brimming with flavor.

MUSHROOMS

As interest in vegan and vegetarian lifestyles steadily increases, so has interest in mushrooms as a meat alternative. In addition to serving as a meat-like substitute, mushrooms may provide a unique and deliciously distinct flavor for dishes.

“I feel like mushrooms are one of the best salt substitutes,” says Jeffrey Compton, chef de cuisine at Acre in Auburn, Ala. “Mushrooms have an umami-like flavor profile that hits most of the notes on your palate—even salt. I like to dehydrate them into a powder or caramelize them, using tomato paste to really bring out their umami/salty flavor.”

MARJORAM OIL

Oregano enthusiasts may be familiar with marjoram, a culinary herb that is the same genus as oregano, yet differs subtly in flavor.

While dried marjoram may be used in cooking, marjoram oil provides a simpler and more impactful way of cooking with this piney herb.

Regarding its health benefits, marjoram oil is said to cure a medley of ailments, including stomach cramps, migraines and nerve pain.

VEGAN PESTO

With its versatility and rich taste, pesto can transform just about any dish, from pizza to pasta. For those who love the taste of pesto, but can do without dairy, vegan pesto is an easy alternative. To create vegan pesto, simply swap out parmesan cheese for nutritional yeast.

LIQUID SHIO KOJI

For Michael Sichel, executive chef at Gabrielle in Charleston, S.C., liquid shio koji has been an absolute game changer in his kitchen. The Japanese fermented rice liquor is created when a sake press is used to extract the golden liquid from shio koji, a seasoned porridge used to tenderize protein.

“I use it to add umami to everything, from marinades to finishing, as well as in aiolis and soups,” Sichel says. “It adds a scrumptious, caramelized char to meat and seafood.”

SMOKED SPANISH SWEET PAPRIKA

This paprika is a fitting option when attempting to strike the right balance of sweet and savory.

Unlike domestic paprika, smoked Spanish sweet paprika boasts a welcome smokiness that makes it more than suitable for potato-based dishes and a myriad of meat-heavy dishes. n

SPRING 2020 | 133

It’s like food for your ears!

©2020 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C.

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LAST BITES It’s Gotten Easier Being Green Jeffrey Ward

According to the Green Restaurant Association, 79 percent of consumers prefer dining at Certified Green Restaurants, while 78 percent of restaurant employees prefer working at Certified Green Restaurants.

With such an impact on dollars and operations, not to mention the environment, here’s how you can go green.

A pioneer in the green business movement and the first in the food service industry, the Green Restaurant Association was founded in 1990 by CEO Michael Oshman. Since then, Oshman has seen huge advancement in the nonprofit organization’s goals.

“Most companies now realize consumers are educated,” says Oshman. “The issues are real, it’s not just a trend. Just like you look at your financial bottom line, so too energy and water waste are facts of life and issues that need to be dealt with.”

The strength of engaging the Green Restaurant Association lies within the standards they set. “Standards make sense when they are done by an outside body that represents the issue. It creates a common language for consumers, government agencies and restaurants,” Oshman explains.

Restaurants onboard for one to five years and go through a certification process that includes an initial environmental assessment, establishing the baseline from which they will progress. Oshman and his team require verification for their in-depth list of standards, including written financial proof and follow-up on claims. After a score is established with green points associated, the restaurant is graded and either meets

136 | RESTAURANT INC

one of four levels of certification, or it doesn’t qualify.

“Most don’t meet certification, so we now put on our sustainability consultant hat,” he continues. “We have the largest database of green solutions in the industry. Now, we want to help them make changes to increase their score.”

For Julia Gold, owner of Gilded Tomato Company in Rehoboth, Mass., the Green Restaurant Association is a pillar of support for making better environmental choices.

“They'll create a training program for your chefs and employees,” she says.

“They take your calls. They are tried and true and all-encompassing, and I love the sincerity.”

Of course, for an industry with razor-thin profit margins, every penny counts. Because it’s nonprofit, monthly engagement plans can cost under $60 a month.

“Our goal is to help make that back in their energy and water savings,” Oshman assures. “Many end up with a surplus of a few thousand a year, and that can end up being 20, 30, 40 thousand dollars of equivalent free business.” n

Your Center Of the Plate Needs are the

Contact your Reinhart Sales Consultant for more information on how our commitment to form and craft can result in an unforgettable experience for your customers. rfsdelivers.com

er72steaks Š2020 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C, a Performance Food Group Company

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