Restaurant Inc Summer 2019

EDUCATE VOL

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ISSUE

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SUMMER

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EMPOWER

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QUICK BITES FOR YOUR BRAIN

Before we feast upon this issue, here’s a little something to whet your appetite: from our favorite new books to dining and drinking trends getting the most buzz.

– compiled by Audarshia Townsend

New Kansas City distillery is an over-the-top destination Is it a cocktail lounge? A distillery? A miniature adult playground? Or a historical attraction? Let’s just say J. Rieger & Co. is all of the above—and more. Situated in Kansas City’s historic Electric Park neighborhood, the just-opened, 60,000-squarefoot venue aims to be a top destination in the Midwest. And why not? It boasts all the elements of a major hit: Originally owned in 1887 by Jacob Rieger (and eventually doomed by Prohibition), the spirits brand was resurrected in 2014 by his great-great-great grandson Andy Rieger with business partner Ryan Maybee. It’s no ordinary distillery as visitors may jump aboard a 40-foot slide between floors, tour a 3,000-square-foot Kansas City history exhibit and interact with a custom whiskey bottling station. There are also two full-service cocktail bars.

Fire-roasted food key to Maple & Ash’s success Luxury steakhouse Maple & Ash is no doubt one of the Windy City’s finest, and it goes far beyond the fashionistas dining and drinking in the space. Chef Danny Grant fire roasts all the steaks, fish and even veggies. His seafood towers are of special note—you can never go wrong putting a seafood tower on a steakhouse menu— because they’re fire roasted and finished with garlic butter and chili oil. Highlights of this treasure trove: Manila clams, Maine lobster, blue prawns and Alaskan king crab.

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TASTY (SOUND) BITES

A few words with the “winningest man in barbecue,” Myron Mixon, chef/partner of Myron Mixon’s Pitmaster Barbeque (Alexandra, Va.):

You’re an awardwinning, third-generation pitmaster. How have you tweaked your family’s recipes and techniques to your advantage?

A lot of what I do is a blend of what my dad taught me. He had a takeout barbecue business. His was traditional, Southernbased barbecue. That’s the way I learned, but I also became a big winner in the competitive world. I’ve taken what I’ve learned from him and what I’ve learned during competitions over the years and blended them into barbecue I think hits all the taste buds you can possibly have across the country. If I had never learned the [traditional ways of barbecuing] that he taught me, I would have never been the great competitor that I turned out to be.

Outside of your own hometown of Vienna, Ga., which city’s barbecue do you prefer? Chicago, Memphis, St. Louis, Kansas City, etc.—or would that cause controversy?

I like all those places. They’ve all got some great barbecue in them.

But Carolina barbecue, which is Lowcountry, is so close to what traditional Georgia barbecue is, which is what I was raised on. I’d have to give the nod to what is traditional Lowcountry barbecue.

They do the whole hogs and vinegar-based barbecue sauces; that style of cooking is just what I was raised doing.

FOR YOUR NIGHTSTAND SUMMER 2019 | 3

LETTER FROM REINHART

INTRODUCING LEGACY ANGUS 72 FOR YOUR PREMIUM GRILLING NEEDS Dear Restaurant Inc. readers:

With summer being prime time for grilling season, it’s a grand opportunity for Reinhart Foodservice to officially introduce you to our new brand, Legacy 72 Angus. It’s the newest edition to Eagle Ridge’s specialty meats and custom cuts.

As a company, we aim to be a leader in Center of Plate (COP) and relaunching the Eagle Ridge brand with Legacy 72 Angus puts us in the driver’s seat. Added to our portfolio in May, Legacy 72 Angus opens us to an opportunity in COP to specialize in premium products.

Legacy 72 Angus is indeed a premium product—and it comes to you with complete transparency. We’re excited about the attributes of the brand that provides our customers with the best eating experience possible. These attributes include upper 2/3 choice marbling, single sourced facility, and USDA certified program.

A unique aspect of launching our new Angus brand is that it’s coming from a singlesource plant in Dakota City, Neb. That allows for consistency of the product because all the cattle are coming to the same facility. With all the cattle being harvested at the same facility, this provides consistency through the grading and trimming process.

Legacy 72 Angus delivers a more consistent product than what you’re going to find from many of the other brands out there. The availability of Legacy 72 Angus is available throughout all our Reinhart distribution centers.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert MANAGING EDITOR Audarshia Townsend

You’ll note that we’ve upgraded all our Eagle Ridge and Legacy 72 products with new packaging. We’ve also transitioned to Kraft boxes, which will help with sustainability purposes in packaging. And we’ve updated our tagline on the Eagle Ridge brand: “Handcrafted steaks since 1972.” The year Reinhart was founded as a trusted meat supplier.

ART DIRECTION Jenn Bushman DESIGNERS Drew Frigo, Lauren Jonson, Morgan Gilmore

To stay on top of trends and modern techniques, Reinhart chefs are fully engaged with Legacy Angus 72 as we go forward. They’re coming up with specific dishes to enhance the brand, to show off in Restaurant Inc. as well as various culinary events throughout the country. We are looking forward to showing off this great new product to you.

PHOTOGRAPHER Dan Coha

Have a great summer!

Jonathan Lerch Vice President of Meat Operations, Reinhart Foodservice

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FOOD STYLIST Susan Barrientos-Hevey Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C., Attn: Marketing, 6250 N. River Road, Suite 9000, Rosemont, IL 60018 or rfsmarketing@ rfsdelivers.com

From left to right: Demetrio Marquez, Jermaine Little, Justin VanHorn, Amanda Page, Jon Lerch, Bill Frost, Brian Funk, Lou Rice.

SUMMER 2019 | 5

CREATIVE CONTRIBUTORS

JENN BUSHMAN Jenn is a Creative Services Manager at Reinhart Foodservice heading up brand and creative leadership and is based in Chicago, IL. She possesses a combination of conceptual and strategic strength and technical proficiency. Jenn always knew she wanted to pursue a creative career. Though she spends most of her days on the computer, she is passionate about finding ways to work with her hands. Art has always been her first love and she continues to oil paint in her free time.

DREW FRIGO A well-rounded creative professional, Drew brings bold ideas to the table as the Senior Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice. Thinking through drawing, he has very few limits or rules when he draws, which attributes to his knack for generating fresh ideas. With that said, his photographic eye, technical savviness, and being surrounded by a great team help bring these ideas to life. Orange juice, family, fat biking, creating art, and music are huge motivators.

MORGAN GILMORE Morgan is a Graphic Designer at Reinhart Foodservice in Rosemont. Ill.. She has a desire to work hard and make what she designs relevant. She sees a blank page as a challenge. When Morgan is not in front of the computer, she's either practicing calligraphy, reading a book or at the gym.

LAUREN JONSON Lauren is an avid baker who does graphic design, in that order. She has a passion for creativity, and typically says yes to any challenge – in and out of the kitchen. Designing for over 12 years, she has developed multiple magazine concepts and marketing campaigns all while perfecting her grandmother’s bourbon pecan pie. Lauren’s life is a flavorful collaboration of art and raising her two beautiful children.

DAN COHA Dan Coha is a mainstay in Chicago food photography. He has worked with many advertising and promotional agencies, and packaging and design firms, as well as direct corporate clients over the years.

His studio is located in Chicago’s River West neighborhood.

COHAPHOTO.COM

SUSAN BARRIENTOS-HEVEY Susan is a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef who began her career in New York’s Mercer Kitchen, and followed Jean Georges to Minneapolis’s Chambers Kitchen. Always aspiring to make food beautiful, Susan's career in the food styling world has allowed her to work on many brand names. She has contributed to projects for General Mills, Target, Bush’s Beans, Walmart, and continues with Reinhart's Restaurant Inc and The Dish.

SUSANBARRIENTOSFOOD.COM

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AUDARSHIA TOWNSEND

CONTRIBUTORS | WRITERS

A Chicago-based author, seasoned food and cocktail culture writer and regular contributor to Chicago’s top-rated WGNTV’s “WGN Morning News,” Audarshia Townsend is Restaurant Inc.’s managing editor. Previously, her work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Tribune Magazine, Essence, Los Angeles Times, Playboy.com, World’s 50 Best Bars and Anthony Bourdain’s Exploring Parts Unknown. She’s also discussed food and drink trends on several local television and radio shows, was a featured expert on The Travel Channel, and served as a judge three years in a row for the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants. She enjoys discovering new dining and drinking trends in her hometown and beyond.

MINDY S. KOLOF The more complex the subject matter, the better Mindy likes to break it down and communicate it with passion. Twenty+ years of experience translates to writing about every type of culinary trend, cutting-edge product and visionary foodservice leader. As principal of her own boutique public relations firm, she’s crafted numerous top-notch communications programs.

Her favorite mashup: the intersection of health, wellness and culinary. Mindy graduated from University of Illinois, Champaign, with a bachelor’s in Journalism.

ARI BENDERSKY Ari Bendersky is a lifestyle journalist specializing in food, wine, spirits and travel. The former founding editor of Eater Chicago, Ari has been writing for 20+ years and his work has appeared in the New York Times, WSJ magazine, Associated Press, Men's Journal, Wine Enthusiast, Departures, RollingStone.com, Crain's Chicago Business, Liquor.com and many more publications. A lover of discovering new food and cultures, Ari travels whenever possible, recently visiting Italy, Finland, Argentina, Portugal and Mexico.

He lives in Chicago with his husband and their super cute scruffy dog, Eddie (the girl!).

ERICA BETHE LEVIN Erica Bethe Levin is a food writer, entrepreneur and hospitality consultant. At 24, she founded Chicago's largest online magazine for women, CheekyChicago. She has since been featured in the Chicago Tribune, Chicago Sun-Times, Crain's Chicago Business and on CNN, ABC, NBC, FOX and WGN covering all things lifestyle. She also launched the Chicago market for Reserve, a table management system backed by the co-founder of Uber, and is currently the director of sales for Coyle Hospitality.

VICTOR OZOLS Victor Ozols is a Brooklyn-based writer, editor, and editorial consultant specializing in food, spirits, travel, and design. His work has appeared in Serious Eats, BlackBook, Esquire, and Modern Luxury Interiors, among other publications. When he’s not scouring New York for the best barbecue and craft beers, he’s busy at home with his wife and two sons.

BRIANA RUPEL Briana Rupel is a freelance writer and bartender, with more than 15 years of well-rounded experience in the food and beverage industry. She has created craft cocktails for a Four Diamond hotel and designed and led an interactive cocktail seminar. When off the clock, she prefers a hoppy local tap at her neighborhood dive. Bri currently resides in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where she continuously finds creative inspiration in the lush woods and rocky beaches bordering Lake Superior.

JEFFREY WARD Jeffrey Ward is a public relations and marketing executive who has worked with many of Chicago’s and the country’s most recognizable chefs and restaurateurs. A leader in the culinary and hospitality industry for more than 15 years, his career path was galvanized through his role of director of marketing and communications for the fine-dining division of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises. Most recently he worked as senior strategist for the culinary and hospitality division at Agency H5 and a partner at SHOUT Marketing & Media Relations before launching his own namesake communications agency in 2019. His specialties include concept openings and promotional launches as well as long-term management campaigns designed to keep culinary brands in the public eye and marketplace.

M. JANE JOHNSON Johnson is never happier than when tracking down a great story that will inspire, inform and ring true to restaurant-industry readers. Her career is so last century—well, at least that’s when it started, and it continues to be a source of endless delight, especially since the research (eating in restaurants and talking to brilliantly cool people) is deliciously satisfying. Off the clock, Johnson actually loves to cook though she spends an inordinate amount of time trying to find Chinese cumin lamb on Chicago-area menus. She counts a well-made gin and tonic among her best and most steadfast friends.

SUMMER 2019 | 7

CONTENTS

Vol 07, Issue 03 | SUMMER 2019

IN THIS ISSUE

02–03 Quick Bites 04 Letter from Reinhart 06–07 Contributors

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS 12 ONE QUICK QUESTION: What is your most important and defining role as a leader?

14 TECH TALK: Tools You Can’t Live Without 16 Setting Your Soundtrack 18 BEYOND FOOD AND BEVERAGE: Barbecue-focused restaurants raise the fun factor 20 Pack Your Summer with Special Events 22 UNLEASHED: Making your restaurant fourlegged friendly 24 The Sweet Taste of Success 26 Solutions from the ‘Renegade Cook’

PRODUCT REVIEWS 30 When the Grillin’ is Good - Veggies 34 A Winning Grill - Fish 36 State of the Burger 38 THERE’S THE RUB: Rules to keep in mind before you raid the spice rack 40 Saucy Opinions 8 | RESTAURANT INC

42 Unique Sauces Push Barbecue into New Directions 44 Blended burgers are a big, beefy trend

FROM THE KITCHEN 46 MAKING THEIR MARK: The Eagle Ridge team launches the brand into a bold new future 48 Meet the Meats 52 GOING DEEP: Black River Meats finds success in sustainability 54 GRILLS GONE WILD: How chefs are introducing game into their summer repertoires 60 Regional Barbecue A Truly American Cuisine 63 Exploring Korean BBQ 64 GOING GLOBAL: American barbecue takes on an international accent 67 Ancient Himalayan Salt Slabs Cook Just About Everything 68 Rising From the Pits 70 PLAYING WITH PORK: Two A-List pitmasters’ advice on grilling the pig

82 Outstanding Wines for Summertime 84 Shake Up your Grill Game 84 Our Resident Bartender Deconstructs the Mai Tai 90 3 Smoked Cocktails to Keep Customers Cool 90 PERFECT PAIRINGS: Choosing the best beers for barbecue

BREAKING BREAD 96 THE X FACTOR: KC’s saucy pitmasters 98 YA’LL COME BACK: Arthur Bryant’s serves great barbecue

EATING HEALTHY 102 PIECE OF THE MIDDLE EAST: Hummus is a versatile menu item that can serve as an app or a meal 104 IT’S IN THE CAN: America finally catches on to the canned fish trend that’s part of daily European life 106 BEN’S FRIENDS: A group of restaurant veterans aims to help peers deal with alcohol and drug abuse in the industry.

74 WOOD WORKING: Wood smoke that snuggles up, cossets and kisses the food

108 Next Gen Dining Has Arrived

76 SIDE HUSTLES: Barbecue goes hand in glove with cole slaw & others

110 Ad Index

BEHIND THE BAR

111 LAST BITES: Award-winning pitmaster Myron Mixon talks BBQ

78 POUR IT ON! Options for pairing drinks with produce-based food SUMMER 2019 | 9

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

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One Quick Question What is your most important and defining role as a leader?

by M. Jane Johnson

Being “the boss” has an all-buttoned-down aura, one suggesting that days are filled with all kinds of corner-office responsibilities, the kinds of tasks that insulate and isolate the big chief from those who work on the frontlines.

So, we wondered, what do these bosses think is their main leadership task?

Getting financials right? Mapping out an aggressive growth strategy? Keeping stock prices up and Wall Street investors happy? By the telling of those we asked, those are important items on to-do lists, but they view their main role as the keepers of culture, rabble rousers and champions.

WHAT IS YOUR MOST IMPORTANT AND DEFINING ROLE AS A LEADER?

SCOTT SCHWEBEL

KYLE NOONAN

KAREN EADON

vice president brand, marketing, retail, Milwaukee-based Colectivo Coffee

president/co-founder, FreeRange Concepts

president/COO, Riverside, Calif.-based Farmer Boys Restaurants

“Every day, I lead a collective ‘adventure’ toward excellence. Some days I’m herding cats chasing that elusive goal, and other days I’m in awe at what our brand and organization delivers to our customers and the communities in which we do business.”

AKASH KAPOOR president/co-founder, San Francisco-based Curry Up Now "My biggest role is to be a disruptive troublemaker. Question everything.

Status quo sucks. If you don’t get better, you get worse.”

“My role is to inspire the team to focus on the details, ignore the distractions and create remarkable memories!”

“My role is to articulate the brand vision, help team members see how they contribute to achieving that vision and remove barriers that get in their way."

EVAN SHERIDAN executive culinary director, Chicago-based Aparium Hotel Group "My main job as a leader is to set the example for excellence in execution, responsiveness and organization. I work hand in hand with our chefs to provide the support they need in systems management, cost control, inventory management and consistency control while giving them freedom to represent their local cuisine and to work with farmers and collaborators to support the community and provide unparalleled experiences in our restaurant outlets."

BILL GREENE executive chef of Peppervine, Charlotte, N.C. “My job as a leader is really mentoring the staff to grow in the business and in life.

When you genuinely show that you care about them, they will succeed and become great leaders for you.” n

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BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Tech Talk

by Mindy S Kolof

Tools You Can’t Live Without?

Take Your ‘Que from Top Pitmasters

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The tools of the barbecue trade have remained virtually the same for decades and therein lies the charm of this well-seasoned art. We checked in with two veterans of the Chicago area’s famed barbecue scene to smoke out pitmasters’ essentials. Whether you’re all barbecue, all the time, or just feature the occasional pulled pork sandwich, consider these primarily low-tech, yet highly reliable accessories.

First on the list is an instant-read meat thermometer. These run the gamut from highly sophisticated Wi-Fi enabled to extremely basic, so scope out the one to fit your needs and budget.

“A good, accurate thermometer is indispensable,” asserts Barry Sorkin, owner of Smoque restaurant, which has carved out a stellar reputation in its 12-year history.

A purist at heart, Sorkin believes great barbecue is all about the quality of the meat and the smoke, placing the thermometer squarely at the heart of the action.

“When we’re doing low and slow, managing time and temperature is the most important thing. I put meat thermometers throughout the grill. And, if you’re just starting to barbecue, that thermometer is the best way to learn what a brisket looks like when ready,” he says.

“It’s the best investment you can make,” says Jeff Shapiro, who spent years on the competitive barbecue circuit before launching his award-winning Real Urban Barbecue restaurants in Chicago’s suburbs.

“Pitmasters can judge readiness by touch and feel, but even the most experienced uses a meat thermometer.” He includes himself in that group, remembering when

he first opened Real Urban and dropped his prized Thermapen. “I said ‘no one’s going home until I find it’ and I was only half kidding!”

Second is a great knife. “You need something you can depend on to do everything from breaking down chickens to slicing meat,” says Shapiro. Sorkin’s top choice is a serrated 12-inch to 14-inch knife to cut through pork bark without shredding the meat inside.

He also uses a spray bottle to spritz the meat throughout cooking and prevent it from drying out.

Gloves, not tongs, are vital. Sorkin’s dualglove technique consists of a heat-resistant Kevlar glove to protect against burning embers, with a latex glove on top when handling meat. Shapiro uses silicone-based, non-slip gloves.

The one major piece of equipment valued

by Shapiro is his CVap (controlled vapor technology) holding cabinet. “I started using this 10 years ago, and it’s phenomenal for maintaining the integrity of the meat throughout the day.”

Finally, invest in great aprons and non-slip shoes. “It’s a messy business!” laughs Shapiro. n

SUMMER 2019 | 15

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

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Setting Your Soundtrack Using streaming music services can help set the mood and create your restaurant’s vibe.

by Ari Bendersky

Setting the right tone in your restaurant goes well beyond whether you serve good food. From the moment guests walk through the door, you create an impression and that includes the music playing throughout the space.

Setting up the right playlist takes some time and thought. You can’t just throw together a bunch of tracks you like and think that will create a hot vibe.

Considering your clientele’s music tastes, location of your restaurant and the energy for different points in the day will make a well-rounded playlist that hopefully appeals to most.

“First, we consider where the property is located and then move onto properly researching what music has shaped the city spanning all genres, tempo and moods,” says Ken Ludeke, chief innovation officer at Aparium Hotel Group, which owns Lazia at the Crossroads Hotel in Kansas City, Mo. “We provide morning, afternoon, dinner at late-night playlists on a monthly basis.”

Similarly, Sarah Gavigan, owner of Nashville’s Bar Otaku and Otaku Ramen, creates different playlists for different times of day. As a former music supervisor in the entertainment business, Gavigan understands how to create emotion through music and set a tone.

“You want to keep a vibe going, and you can have peaks and valleys,” Gavigan explains. “Some nights we may play low energy for the first three hours and kick it up. Songs have specific times and places where they work.”

Gavigan taps former colleague, Dan Wilcox, music supervisor and deejay for Los Angeles radio station KCRW 89.9 FM, to help compile her Spotify playlists.

Together, they have three disparate playlists comprising 300 songs each that refresh once a month.

“It’s a lot”, she admits, “but it enhances the dining experience.”

Too much load for you to carry? Hire a music consultancy like Gray V to craft various playlists for you. That will also cover the costs of licensing fees, which need to get paid to performing rights organizations like ASCAP or BMI. Or, barter with a local deejay to thread together rotating playlists.

However you do it, remember you’re making your own soundtrack. n

SUMMER 2019 | 17

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Beyond Food and Beverage Barbecue-focused restaurants raise the fun factor

by Victor Ozols

While no two barbecue restaurants are exactly the same, they all share one thing in common: a welcoming, unpretentious atmosphere. From casual dress codes that call for T-shirt and jeans to family-style food that has guests licking their fingers between bites, it’s about as relaxed as sit-down dining can get. It’s no surprise, then, that they’re the perfect setting for all manner of games, diversions and entertainment.

Here, we highlight four ways successful barbecue joints raise the fun factor for guests as they eat and drink their way through the menu.

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Kick up the jams Diners can accompany their award-winning barbecue with free live music every weekend at Brooklyn-based Hometown Bar-B-Que. The Southern staples of country and blues music are well represented, of course, but various performers from NYC and beyond take the stage in a spacious alcove adjacent to their main dining room.

The room comes complete with a full bar, so guests don’t have to miss a beat going for another round.

Let the games begin There’s nothing like getting a little competition going before, or after, a good meal. At Brother Jimmy’s in National Harbor, Md., Skee Ball provides a friendly battleground for high-rollers, with two lanes in case things get heated. And at the Alamo Texas Bar-B-Cue & Tequila Bar in Brookline, N.H., guests can get their slide on at a handsome wooden shuffleboard table.

Take it outside Barbecue restaurants with outdoor space reap the benefits when the weather’s sunny. At Brooklyn’s Pig Beach, co-owner Shane McBride says his patio is a huge draw, with more than 2,000 guests coming through on busiest nights. And it’s not just people enjoying the fresh air, it’s dogs as well. “The biggest draw for the outside part is that we’re pretty dogfriendly,” McBride says. “There’s quite a few dogs here when it’s a nice day.” The second-biggest draw: more games. “We have six cornhole sets throughout the outside space—that’s our game,” he adds.

Think of the children When it comes to kids, boredom is never on the menu at Chicago’s Baobab BBQ. A parent himself, owner Andrew Dunlop makes sure the little ones are entertained, providing them with fun things to do at the table.

“We are very focused on kids here, so we make activity baskets for them,” he explains. “There are baskets kids can pick up and take to the tables that include crosswords, coloring pages and a couple of games.” n

SUMMER 2019 | 19

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Pack Your Summer with Special Events Bringing the party brings in the business

by Erica Bethe Levin

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Summer months bring out the best in pretty much everything: people, fresh produce, baseball and even restaurants. Although business naturally picks up when the weather warms up, adding a roster of special events to drive revenue is a good practice.

Outdoor patios, sidewalk cafes, chef gardens or private rooms allow for more guests, more fun and more money.

Kevin Hickey, chef/owner of Duck Inn Chicago, is well known for hosting a rotating lineup of events throughout the summer at his establishment.

“We have a substantial outdoor area and wanted to capitalize on the short, but very popular, summer season in Chicago,” he says. “The key is creating special events that are different from our regular service and wind up being supplemental to the revenue we would have otherwise realized.”

Even better for Hickey is that these events run alongside regular operations, so the profits are truly supplemental. “The idea was to augment regular business so all of the events are occurring parallel to normal operations. We will open on Monday when we’re off as well to accommodate events.”

Hickey, along with other creative restaurateurs, have inspired us to come up with the following list of events you could host at your restaurant this summer:

1

2

1 Hawaiian Luau – On a monthly basis, Duck Inn Chicago roasts a whole suckling pig, salads, rice and drink specials for a reasonable all-in price.

2 Clam Bakes – Flanders Fish Market in East Lyme,

3

Conn., will bring the clam bake to you, while the restaurant remains open seven days a week.

3 Crawfish Boil – Proof & Cooper restaurant in Austin, Texas, hosts all day parties with crawfish by the pound, buckets of beer from local breweries and music.

4 Rosé All Day – Summer is the most appropriate time to drink pink, so how about a patio rosé bar? Put some small bites on special and open early before outdoor seating gets packed.

5 Wild Salmon Bake – Duck Inn hosts salmon

4

bakes throughout the summer paired with Oregon pinot noirs.

When planning your calendar, Hickey warns, “unique selling points are what it’s all about. It can’t be something you can get at the restaurant regularly. If we only serve pizza outside on Wednesdays, it becomes special. Don’t mess with it once it starts to work; it will only confuse people and you’ll lose the momentum.” n

SUMMER 2019 | 21

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Unleashed Making your restaurant four-legged friendly

by Mindy Kolof

Americans love their canines like kids, and restaurants are learning that catering to canineowning customers can be a fruitful concept.

“Dog-friendly” restaurants attract both millennials and emptynester pup parents and often boast boosts in base and increased loyalty. According to the experts, joining the pack of restaurants going to the dogs (in a positive way!) is much easier than it looks.

Typically, due to national health regulations, only outside dining areas and patios can be designated as dog friendly (The exception is that service animals are allowed to enter most establishments).

There are no set "criteria" for a dog-friendly restaurant, however, Morgan Sampson, owner of Brunch in Milwaukee, says the simple addition of dog water bowls and biscuits creates an atmosphere of acceptance.

A dog lover herself, Sampson, who opened her first location in 2016, said she keeps it simple and doesn’t create menu items tailored to four-legged customers. “Our servers know to recommend interested parties a plate of bacon, a pancake or an order of scrambled eggs with cheese,” she says.

MUTTS Canine Cantina, with locations in Dallas and Fort Worth, Texas, takes the dog-friendly concept one step further. Opened in 2013, the establishment offers food and drinks for dogs and owners, as well as an adjacent off-leash park.

Kyle Noonan, co-founder, created both locations to offer a place where owners can watch pets play from the patio as they sip margaritas or enjoy local draft beer. Menu items like the “Doggie Dog” (a 100 percent beef frank, perfectly portioned for a doggy bite) and the “Pupsicle” (a savory frozen treat with real beef broth, peanut butter and an edible bone) leave customers literally begging for more.

Connecting dog owners with accommodating venues is the job of organizations like BringFido. Melissa Halliburton founded the company in 2005 after she adopted her dog, Rocco, and was frustrated by the difficulty of finding pet-friendly accommodations.

BringFido’s website (www.BringFido.com) and mobile apps connect dog owners to pet-friendly places with one million unique visitors per month. There are currently approximately 60,000 active restaurants listed on BringFido with no charge to be listed. The site is updated regularly, and user reviews are sourced.

So, spruce up your outdoor seating, purchase some quality water bowls and treats and perhaps add a simple, reasonably priced doggie menu item (a hamburger patty or slice of bacon will suffice).

And then, sit back and let the dog days of summer begin! n

SUMMER 2019 | 23

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

24 | RESTAURANT INC

The Sweet Taste of Success One artisan pastry chef reveals how she baked up a booming business one delicious macaron at a time.

by David Salvi

Showcasing the sugary decadence of desserts and freshly baked bread in your restaurant feels good. But taking it to the next level and successfully expanding those tasty treats into other eateries and hotels? That’s certain to make an operator feel warm and gooey like the inside of a molten lava cake. But building a business within the business is more than throwing a great product at the market.

On average, going to the market with a product takes time. You’ll need supply chain solutions. You'll have to pound the pavement with marketing and sales strategies. And, of course, you’ll need persistent operations to keep quality and demand.

That’s how you’d expect a textbook to read. But what if some in the restaurant industry see it a bit differently? Take, for example, Chicago-based pastry chef Aya Fukai.

Her pastry program at Maple & Ash restaurant recently expanded to a wholesale bakery operation, offering 50 stock keeping units (including varying product sizes), to dozens of restaurants and hotels, creating an additional revenue stream and opportunity across the spectrum. Fukai, however, won’t let you think this happened overnight.

“It’s just not glamorous, as people see on TV,” insists Fukai. “You have to learn the daily grind. There are going to be 16-hour days and some months without a day off. But that’s how you get others to believe in you.”

The James Beard Foundation semifinalist pastry pro spent her career building relationships in the kitchen and bakery with fellow chefs. “I’ve always been a pastry chef who really likes working with other chefs,” continues Fukai, who graduated from Boston University. “This gives me the opportunity to work with people I worked with in the past.”

That means Fukai’s relationships over the course of her professional life have paid dividends because of the reputation she built and friendships she forged. Working side-by-side, laughing, hustling and creating good food with colleagues has helped her immensely. So, when she approached those same connections about her wholesale endeavor, they jumped at the opportunity to lend a helping hand, whether as team members or clients.

“I never had to sell myself,” she admits. “I built that trust over time.

[Clients] knew I had a high standard for products.” So, her foot was always in the door. It was just a matter of when she wanted to open.

“I’d go in, set up tastings and that’d be it.” Though, Fukai admits, they have since hired a salesperson to focus on new leads.

For those looking to pursue a similar path, she recommends starting with a high-quality product and leveraging relationships for market entry. Her Aya Pastry shop now serves 34 items, highlighted by Samoa Cakes, Dino Macarons and 25 bread products (led by highvolume favorites like baguettes and sourdough items).

What’s next? She predicts retail, first with an online store that’ll make products available for delivery or pick-up. She also anticipates a brick-and-mortar operation down the line. n

SUMMER 2019 | 25

BUSINESS & OPERATIONS

Solutions from the ‘Renegade Cook’ Mindy S. Kolof The art of successfully turning tables takes on new meaning for restaurant operators dealing with an increasingly tough labor market. A complete reboot may be needed to retain the best cooks, but are operators ready to turn the tables on themselves and make it happen? The timing couldn’t be better, according to “Renegade Cook” author Matt Nelson, who brings 26 years of hospitality experience for a fresh perspective to the industry’s knottiest problem.

“Cooks matter and developing cooks matter, but back of house training is often overlooked,” asserts Nelson. “We need to change the mindset quickly or labor issues will worsen.”

That’s a huge concern, given a shrinking pool of qualified applicants, rising wages and an astounding 110 percent turnover rate among cooks. The estimated $2,200 needed to replace each cook represents a significant cost to operators, but because it’s fairly invisible, rarely gets the attention it deserves, says Nelson.

At the root of the turnover issue is changing expectations. No longer content to simply sign on for the next open job, cooks are increasingly selective about their work environment, career trajectory and opportunity to make a meaningful contribution. For operators, says Nelson, this represents an unprecedented opportunity to evolve.

“It’s a huge moment to reframe back of the house by treating them as professionals and training the heck out of them!” he exclaims.

“There’s no better way to rise above the competition than by attracting good people and giving them every reason to stay. You may never have to look for a manager outside your company again.”

Matt Nelson’s Top Tips for Transforming Turnover to Opportunity: Don’t just ask questions, answer them.

Learn from your cooks.

Engage your applicant during the interview process and find out what they want to know, where they want to start and where they hope to go.

Encourage their contributions for operational improvement and you’ll receive a wealth of usable ideas.

A warm welcome.

Make a plan.

Train hard.

Celebrate often!

Keep connecting.

Most important:

Present your new cook with a signed card from everyone on staff on starting day.

Don’t just fill the spot, but provide the comprehensive training your new cook deserves.

Use review sessions as an opportunity to build rapport, not just suggest improvements.

Set clear expectations for performance, promotion opportunities and check in regularly.

Recognize successes small and large, and make it fun to work at your operation.

Treat your staff like customers and give them reasons to stay.

Learn more at bearenegadecook.com 

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

“Cooks matter and developing cooks matter, but back of house training is often overlooked.

We need to change the mindset quickly or labor issues will worsen.”

- MATT NELSON Author of ‘Renegade Cook’

SUMMER 2019 | 27

Reimagine the Burger with

The Blend Why thE Blend is right for today!

BETTER FLAVOR: Take advantage of the umami in mushrooms to amplify the flavor of meat.

You’ll get some of the best tasting burgers ever.

BETTER FOR GUESTS: By adding at least 25% chopped mushrooms to meat dishes, you can reduce calories, fat, saturated fat, cholesterol and sodium.²

BETTER FOR THE PLANET: New research shows mushrooms are one of the most sustainably produced foods grown in the U.S.¹ The Blend makes menus more sustainable and saves on natural resources and environmental footprint.

A TRUE POWER BURGER: The Blend adds more nutrients to the plate like vitamin D, potassium, B-vitamins, selenium and antioxidants – making it one of the only burgers with so many functional properties.

THE BLEND - NOT JUST FOR BURGERS: Use this culinary technique and blend finely chopped mushrooms into your tacos, meatloaf, lasagna, pasta sauce, meatballs and more, to make iconic dishes more nutritious and delicious.

go to jamesbe ard.or blended burgerp g/ roject, for Dea tils on Blended the Burger Project & how y ™ ou can Join th James B e eard Fo undat & chef c olleagu ion es in crea ting the best ble nded burger!

It’s a point of difference that makes a difference. * Burger photos courtesy of Hyde Park Steakhouse Prime Steakhouse (Beachwood, OH; Pittsburgh, PA; Birmingham, MI) 1. The Mushroom Sustainability Story: Water, Energy, and Climate Environmental Metrics , SureHarvest March 2017. 2. Myrdal Miller, A., Mills, K., Wong, T., Drescher, G., Lee, S.M., Sirimuangmoon, C., Schaefer, S., Langstaff, S., Minor, B. and Guinard, J.-X. (2014), Flavor-Enhancing Properties of Mushrooms in Meat-Based Dishes. Journal of Food Science, 79: S1795–S1804. doi: 10.1111/1750-3841.12549

For more information about The Blend, as well as great recipes visit Blenditarian.com.

While you’re there, take the pledge to do better - for your customers, your bottom line and the planet.

#TheBlend

[ADVERTORIAL]

at Burgh’ers

Burgh’ers is a gourmet burger restaurant with two locations in Pennsylvania — Harmony and Pittsburgh. Chef Fiore Moletz, founder of the award-winning Burgh’ers and Della Terra Italian Bistro, is proud to offer sustainably-sourced burgers, that are also healthy.

Burgh’ers is a winner and 3-time participant in the annual James Beard Foundation’s Blended Burger Project™.

Why they menu #TheBlend 1. ADVANCE PREP EASES OPERATIONS

3. BUILDING THE BUZZ Burgh’ers launched the blended burger as a special after it was named a finalist in the Blended Burger Project™. They capitalized on the buzz and news spread via word of mouth. It became a permanent menu item called #theblend.

To prep the blended burgers, one of the line cooks cleans and dices the mushrooms, then marinates them for 24 hours in salt, thyme and garlic, before roasting to enhance their flavor.

4. #THEBLEND AS MARKETING TOOL

2. MAXIMIZING MARGINS With beef prices cyclical, The Blend is a natural solution to lower food costs and improve margins.

The hashtag serves as an immediate entry into Instagram and Snapchat. Customers see the hashtag and it’s a trigger to start taking and tagging photos. Moletz has reported that #theblend hashtag has built business at his two locations.

“Our guests are very health conscious, sustainability-minded and active. The blended patty —marketed as #theblend on the menu — now generates 10%-15% of weekly revenue.”

- Chef Fiore Moletz

For more information about The Blend, as well as great recipes visit Blenditarian.com.

While you’re there, take the pledge to do better - for your customers, your bottom line and the planet. *Originally Featured in November 2017 Issue of Restaurant Business Magazine, 50 Great Ideas

PRODUCT REVIEWS

When the Grillin’ is Good Summer means more grilled produce — and there’s so many ways to do it.

by Ari Bendersky

Have you ever met a chef who doesn’t light up when she sees the bounty that is summer produce? Visit any farmers market early morning when chefs shop and you can almost see the wheels spinning in their heads for how they’re going to prepare all those beautiful vegetables and fruit.

Grilling that produce can add smoke, caramelization, sweetness and so much more to a swath of dishes, whether to accompany fish or meat, added into a sauce, used in a dessert, mixed into a cocktail or beautifully used on their own in the center of the plate.

“Everything works well on the grill,” says Daria Parish, a former-chef-turned sales consultant at Reinhart Foodservice who works often with high-end, organic, vegan and vegetarian clients. “There’s nothing that doesn’t and I think some people are scared of that. It’s a matter of how you prepare it. As long as you cook it right, it can be amazing.”

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As for how you prepare vegetables, keeping things simple and allowing the natural flavors to do their thing is often advised as adding too many seasonings or sauces can obscure the ultimate taste.

“I just usually use a bit of salt and pepper and sometimes toss them with a bit of olive oil so they don’t dry out,” says Ted Terio, a Reinhart Foodservice sales consultant based in Appleton, Wis. “If you put on more seasonings like cayenne, it draws away from the subtle smoke and natural flavor of the vegetable.

Sometimes a restaurant can overly season something and that’s all you end up tasting.” n

vegetables?

So, what are some ways to use

[Recipe on pg 32]

Parish and Terio offer these valuable tips: Fennel

“I cut the heads in half, spray water inside and add salt, pepper and olive oil,” Parish says. “I cook the round side down so the water stays in the bulb, then turn it over and get grill marks. It turns soft, sweet and salty with a hint of licorice, and you can add it to a dish or use as a base for sauce.”

Cabbage

Cook head cabbages on the grill, but wrap broccoli and cauliflower in foil.

Mushrooms

Skewer smaller ‘shrooms or place whole portobello or porcini caps directly on the grill.

Root vegetables

Cook at a low temperature of blanche first. Don’t grill on high heat to avoid burning.

Eggplant

“It’s the only vegetable I’d marinate—in a salt solution with garlic and rosemary—before putting it on the grill. And leave the skin on,” Parish advises.

SUMMER 2019 | 31

PRODUCT REVIEWS

JALAPENO POPPER MAC AND CHEESE Ted Terio | Sales Consultant, Reinhart Shawano Division Servings: 8 INGREDIENTS

4 tbsp

unsalted butter

¼ cup

all-purpose flour

2 cups

heavy cream

1 cup

half-and-half

2 cups

shredded cheddar, divided use

16 oz

dried cavatappi pasta, cooked al dente

1 tbsp

olive oil

1/3 cup diced onion 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 to 3

fresh jalapeno peppers, seeded, minced

8 oz

cream cheese, frozen and cubed

1 tsp

kosher salt

½ tsp

black pepper

1 cup

crushed jalapeno cheddar Cheetos

½ cup

French’s crispy jalapenos

Optional: 8 slices bacon, cooked, crumbled INSTRUCTIONS

Make roux: Melt butter in medium pan; whisk in flour and cook, stirring for one minute to two minutes. Add cream and half-and-half; cook until thickened. Off heat, add half of cheddar cheese. Transfer sauce to slow cooked; add cooked pasta.

Sauté onions, garlic and jalapenos in oil until soft; add to slow cooker along with cream cheese, salt and pepper. Mix well; top with remaining cheddar. Cover and cook on low for 30 minutes.

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For service, top with crushed Cheetos, French’s jalapenos and bacon. Terio uses a slow cooker for this spiced-up comfort-food classic. It also can be baked.

GRILLED ROMAINE SALAD Ted Terio | Sales Consultant, Reinhart Shawano Division Servings: 4-6 INGREDIENTS

2 tbsp

olive oil

2 heads Romaine cut in half lengthwise ½ loaf

French baguette

Caesar dressing, as needed

1 tsp

bonito flakes (optional)

1 tbsp

truffle oil

1 tbsp

grated parmesan

1 tbsp

fresh chopped garlic

1 tsp

sea salt

½ tsp

black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Once you have finished cooking your proteins, clean off grill grates. Temperature should be medium low. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of oil on Romaine, making sure to do both sides. Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper. Do the same process for baguette, but also rub garlic on it.

Place baguette on grill and toast both sides, roughly two minutes to three minutes each side.

Place Romaine on grill and lightly mark each side. Remove both from grill. Chop Romaine and place in serving bowl, drizzle with Caesar dressing and truffle oil, sprinkle with parmesan cheese and bonito flakes. Cut baguette on the diagonal, making half inch slices and serve with salad.

TATER TOT CASSEROLE Caleb Fischer | Chef, Bow & Arrow (Auburn, Ala.) Servings: 8 INGREDIENTS

1

medium onion, diced

2 tsp

minced garlic

4 oz

butter

1 12-oz can golden mushroom soup 5 oz

sour cream

¾ tsp

salt

4 lbs

potato tots, crisp fried

4 oz

shredded cheddar, plus more for top

INSTRUCTIONS

Sauté onion and garlic in butter until translucent.

Stir in soup, sour cream and salt.

Toss together tots, sauce mixture and four ounces cheese. Transfer to baking pan and top with additional cheese.

Bake at 300 F until melty and heated through.

SUMMER 2019 | 33

PRODUCT REVIEWS

A Winning Grill Follow these tips for grilling the best fish

by Ari Bendersky

They say if you give a man a fish, he can eat for a day, but if you teach a man to fish, he’ll eat for a lifetime. But what about showing someone how to properly grill that fish? Well, then she not only eats for a lifetime, but also continues to bring joy to so many others who feast on that delicious fare.

Getting that perfectly cooked fish takes skill, and it all starts with selecting the right type of fish to throw on a grill.

“Avoid delicate, flaky fish like tile fish, cod and catfish,” advises Adam Hodgson, executive chef at 5Church in Charleston, S.C. “You want to grill a fish that will hold up on the grill and retain moisture like cobia, triggerfish or wild striped bass. You’re looking for more dense meat, preferably fatty.”

Ensure you ready your grill. It has to be cleaned, seasoned and primed. Sure, it sounds like “grilling fish 101,” but we’ve seen enough mangled fish in our time to know not everyone understands the techniques.

“First, make sure it’s clean and then oiled with a towel or some paper towels soaked in oil,” says Jeffrey S. Merry, corporate executive chef with Reinhart Foodservice in Boston. “That will help with the sticking of the seafood.”

Prepare your fish with a simple brine or add seasoning or a citrus profile, but unlike meat, you don’t need to

34 | RESTAURANT INC

marinate fish for more than approximately 30 minutes.

“A lot of times with marinades, there’s an acid and if you take something delicate like fish, acid can break down the cell structure and tenderize it,” Merry said.

“Lime and lemon juice can actually cook the fish.”

When heating the grill, gas can be easier to control than wood or charcoal, but Hodgson favors coals.

“Wood flares up and could cause burns or excessive charring,” he says. “Coal will add a nice smoky flavor as well as keeping that heat consistent.”

Don’t even dare overcook the fish by leaving it on the fire too long. Merry likes cooking fish in a cast iron atop the grill as it acts as a heat conductor to get a good sear. Hodgson says to ensure your grills are hot to avoid sticking and suggests putting your presentation side down first because, “that will make the best marks,” he says. And give you the highest marks for your grilled fish as well. n

GRILLED MEDITERRANEAN SEA BASS Jeffrey S. Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS

1 ea

whole bronzini or white fleshed fish

1 ea

lemon, cut into wheels

2 oz

extra virgin olive oil

1/3 oz

sea salt

1/3 oz

black pepper

1 oz

fresh thyme

INSTRUCTIONS

Preheat grill to 400 F. In the cavity of the fish, place six lemon slices and three sprigs of thyme. Rub outside of fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat, turning once until browned, crisp and just cooked through. Do this for about seven minutes per side.

YAKATORI GLAZED SALMON Jeffrey S. Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS

7 tbsp

dark soy sauce

7 tbsp

mirin

7 tbsp

sake

2 tbsp

sugar

8 oz

skin-on Norwegian salmon fillet

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat a gas grill to medium-high. Combine soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar in a large bowl and mix well. Add salmon, toss to coat, cover bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for two hours. Place on grill skin side up and grill five minutes, turn and finish.

SUMMER 2019 | 35

PRODUCT REVIEWS

State of the Burger Chefs take the American classic to delectable new heights

by Victor Ozols

A staple of American cuisine since the late 1800s, the hamburger has outlasted countless food trends simply by being uncomplicated, affordable and delicious. Yet, while the basic components have remained unchanged, it’s always provided a canvas for chefs to apply some culinary creativity. Here, experts from across the country share their thoughts on today’s best burgers, which provide a bite of tradition along with a taste of the future.

“Burger trends from a generation ago are actually coming back,” says David Quick, Reinhart Knoxville division chef. He cited the increasing popularity of smash burgers, which feature smaller patties that begin as balls of ground beef before being “smashed” onto a flat-top grill.

“You have a thinner patty, but you can build and stack them, and it allows you to dress your burger up more,” he says.

Other burger trends worth noting, according to Quick, include beef bacon, house-made rolls, relishes, aioli and exotic cheeses.

“It’s no longer just cheddar or swiss, you’re seeing more Drunken Goat, Camembert and stuff like that,” he continues.

At Arcana, a modern American restaurant in Boulder, Colo., owner Elliott Toan designed its signature burger to stand out through its simplicity.

“The whole idea of the Arcana burger is that it’s 100 percent from scratch,” he says. “We grind it in-house, we make a spicy, fermented mustard from mustard seed in-house and we use bacon that we make in-house. We even bake our own honey brioche burger buns.”

36 | RESTAURANT INC

Clayton Rollison, the chef and owner of Hilton Head Island, South Carolina’s Lucky Rooster Kitchen + Bar, originally came up with his Blanco burger as a joke.

Seeing a crispy layer of cheese that had melted onto the griddle, Rollison’s friend, TV host Jesse Blanco, mistakenly thought Rollison was putting fried chicken skins onto a burger. Intrigued by the idea, Rollison decided to give it a try. The recipe that followed—featuring a double-patty burger, smoked gouda, serrano pepper aioli and Bibb lettuce— became an instant hit.

“The Blanco burger makes guests happy,” Rollison says. “People will be so much more adventurous when it comes to how you junk up your burger.”

In Atlanta, chef Chris Edwards puts an upscale spin on the Duke burger at King + Duke. Its blend of 45day, dry-aged chuck and brisket comes with some seriously luxe accoutrements.

“We top the burger with slowly caramelized onions—the process takes about four hours,” Edwards explains. “We then fold in a puree of fermented black garlic, giving the burger a great umami flavor.” n

BEEF AND MUSHROOM BLENDED BURGER WITH GRILLED BARBECUE APPLES Yvette Marie Hirang | Sales Consultant, Reinhart Kansas City Division Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

Blended Burgers are est one of the lat . burger crazes t Read more abou on the trend PG 44

1 lb

ground beef

2 lbs

button mushrooms, pulsed in food processor until coarsely chopped

1 tbsp

onion powder

1 tbsp

dried chives

2 tsp

black pepper

1 tsp

salt

2

green apples

1/2 cup barbeque sauce INSTRUCTIONS

Sauté mushrooms with two tablespoons oil until soft, around five minutes. Let cool.

Combine ground beef, mushrooms, onion powder, chives, salt and pepper. Form into patties.

Slice green apples into 1/8” discs. Marinate in barbecue sauce for two hours, then grill.

FIND THESE RECIPES & SUB-RECIPES ONLINE AT: RFSDELIVERS.COM/RESTAURANT-INC/RECIPES

Assemble sandwich with: Kaiser bun, leaf lettuce, onion straws.

TURKEY SHIITAKE BLENDED BURGER Yvette Marie Hirang | Sales Consultant, Reinhart Kansas City Division Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

1 lb

ground turkey

1 lb

shiitake mushrooms, cut into large strips

2 tbsp

parsley flakes

1 tbsp

onion flakes

2 tsp

Chinese 5-spice

1 tsp

black pepper

½ tsp

salt

TT

Pickled Cucumber (Find recipe online)

TT

Soy-Ginger Mayo (Find recipe online)

4

Swiss Cheese Slice

INSTRUCTIONS

Sauté mushrooms until soft, around five minutes. Pulse in food processor until pieces are coarsely chopped.

Mix ground turkey and mushroom in a bowl until well blended. Add in the rest of the ingredients, mix well. Form into 4 patties, grill.

Assemble sandwich with: Artisanal bun, pickled cucumbers, arugula, carrots and onions, sautéed and shredded, Swiss cheese slices (optional).

SUMMER 2019 | 37

PRODUCT REVIEWS

There’s the Rub Rules to keep in mind before you raid the spice rack

by Mindy Kolof

Creative combos of herbs, salts and spices do more than add bursts of flavor and a delectably crispy crust with a minimum of fuss and calories. Rubs, the ultimate supporting player, allow the protein to shine brilliantly without ever trying to grab the spotlight.

We look at the power of rubs to masterfully bring out the best qualities of barbecued beef, pork, lamb, chicken and seafood, and share some creative and eminently imitable recipes from the Reinhart kitchen.

No one blend is recognized as a universal rub, giving creative chefs plenty of room to innovate. A few basic rules of the rub to keep in mind before you raid the spice rack, advises Corporate Executive Chef Jeff Merry: Major components of a dry rub can include: sugar for sweetness, browning and crust formation; savory from green herbs, spices, garlic and other flavorings; spices and herbs; and spicy flavors from hot peppers, ginger, horseradish and mustard powder.

Cover the entire surface of the meat. If the dry rub is not adhering well, make a wet rub by adding water or oil, or a simple mix of hot chili powder, cayenne, fresh ground pepper and lemon juice. Wet rubs are rubbed or sprinkled all over the meat prior to marinating.

Stock up on garlic, onion powders, cumin, oregano, paprika and chili powder, which enable you to whip up just about any type of rub. Paprika and chili powder are particularly important for color and flavor, and complement heartier foods like steak or salmon well.

Milder rubs made with oregano and thyme are ideal for chicken breast or white fish like mahi-mahi.

Want to go regional with your rub?

Consider a thick, sweet, sugarbased rub for Kansas City, arguably the birthplace of barbecue ribs. In Memphis, a savory rub made with salt, black and cayenne pepper, garlic and onion powder, paprika, oregano and celery seed is the gold standard. Spicy dry rubs predominate in North Carolina, St. Louis (with smoky spices in the mix too) and Texas, where beef lovers rub it on with cayenne pepper and chili powder. Hawaii goes basic with garlic, salt and pepper, and ground coffee for added intensity. n

Try a technique called “blooming” in which you fry the spices in a bit of oil for a few minutes before preparing the dry rub. The heat triggers the Maillard reaction, releasing the oils and intensifying flavors, aromas and colors.

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DRY CHIMICHURRI Jeffrey S. Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS

1 ½ tbsp salt 1 tbsp

Mexican oregano

1 tbsp

smoked paprika

1 tbsp

granulated onion

1 tbsp

granulated garlic

1 tsp

red chili flakes

1 tsp

basil

¼ tsp

ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Store in an airtight container. Pack the dry rub onto steak.

MEDITERRANEAN RUB Jeffrey S. Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS

2 tsp

lemon zest

4 tsp

granulated garlic

2 tbsp

Greek oregano

4 tsp

basil

1 tsp

sea salt

1 tsp

ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Store in an airtight container. Pack dry rub onto seafood.

SUMMER 2019 | 39

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Saucy Opinions If barbecue is religion, then the sauce that finishes it is final grace, a finishing touch worthy of hosannas and high praise.

by M. Jane Johnson

Brushed on toward the tail end of long, slow cooking, barbecue sauce might seem like an afterthought, a slapdash finish. “If it comes across as minor, it’s not. Sauce is one of the pillars of barbecue,” says Amy Mills, co-owner of 17th Street Barbecue in Murphysboro, Ill. “It’s meant to complement spice in dry rubs, work with the meat and become something bigger in the experience.”

Sauces are staunchly regional. Across the barbecue belt and beyond, styles have evolved and become points of prideful bragging rights. “Everyone thinks their sauce is best,” says Mills. 17th Street’s sauce offerings have grown over time to now include a range of styles.

“People like choice, to try a little of this and that,” Mills explains. “For me, sweet sauce isn’t the right way to go. It coats your taste buds so that’s all you taste. Our sauces are savory, not too thick. You want them to seep into the meat, not just sit on top.”

At Sacramento’s Woodlake Tavern, executive chef Joe Pruner says his house-made sauces are specific to the meats with which they’re served. His brisket is gilded with tomato-based Texas-style sauce spiked with local California chiles, while St. Louis spareribs have a sweeter sauce that leads with spice and molasses. Smoked chicken arrives with white sauce, “like the one made famous by Big Bob Gibson,” notes Pruner, referring to the mayo-based sauce that’s indigenous to Alabama. At Woodlake, confit garlic and horseradish amp up the flavor. “It’s such a regional thing, but we’ve had a good reaction to it.”

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Charlie McKenna, chef/owner of Lillie’s Q in Chicago, likes that sauces contribute to the big bang, that inimitable mix of meat, smoke and sauce.

“Creating sauces is a way for us to add another flavor profile. They are meant to accompany the meat, but not cover up the flavor. We want you to taste the protein, seasoning and then the sauce.”

Creating a sauce isn’t hard, chefs agree, adding that it’s about finding a match-up to your taste and the foods it will accompany. Bow & Arrow’s Caleb Fischer urges a focus on ratios.

“A lot of sauces are way too one-note,” he says. “In the end, the main thing is the levels of acid, salt, sugar and spice. It’s okay if one of them is stronger on one end, but keep them in balance. When you get it right, the sauce absolutely sings.” n

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Unique Sauces Push Barbecue into New Directions

by Jeffrey Ward

Barbecue fanatics are familiar with the sauces of the great regional traditions.

From the tomato-based, sticky sweet sauces of Kansas City to the vinegarbased offerings of North Carolina, each has historic flavor profiles that will never waver in popularity. With diners open to new culinary trends now more than ever, chefs can make an impact with their own worldly inspirations, offering diners something new and exciting.

“Every culture is serious about grilling, from Japanese yakatori to Argentinian asado,” says Chicago’s Julius Russell, owner of A Tale of Two Chefs.

“You still do low and slow. When it comes to grilled meats and sauces, every culture uses what’s around them.”

“

Her Peruvian chicken sauce shines with lime, cilantro and aji amarillo paste, made from a pepper used by the Incas that packs a latent heat. “I usually try to incorporate prominent flavors into my preferred cooking methods,” says Cookston. “I love cooking with fire, so I incorporate flavors from other cultures with either a grilling or smoking recipe.”

Diversity of sauces is something people need to explore, Otherwise barbecue can just be one note.

Russell references the Caribbean, Mexico, Cuba and the Middle East into his barbecue sauces. One of his most requested is a kabob sauce of cucumber, lemon, lime and yogurt, which rounds out the acid.

A great complement to char and grill of lamb or chicken, “It’s bright, citrusy and zingy. It wakes up the palate, yet still falls within barbecue,” he says.

Chef Melissa Cookston, cookbook author, awardwinning pit master and owner of Memphis BBQ Co., finds her motivation through travel, reading and visiting different restaurants. Her plum poblano sauce, with ginger, soy, honey and pepper, works with duck, which she barbecues Sichuan-style.

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”

As for spirit-spiked sauces, Russell has a trick beyond the more familiar whiskey and bourbon varieties. A reduction of calvados is added to more-traditional barbecue sauces, lending a subtle apple brandy flavor that complements pork, beef or chicken.

At the table, it’s about providing guests the opportunity to explore something outside their usual comfort zone. “Diversity of sauces is something people need to explore,” says Russell, “Otherwise barbecue can just be one note.” n

PERUVIAN CHICKEN SAUCE Melissa Cookston | Chef/Owner STEAK by Melissa, Memphis BBQ Co. (Memphis) Servings: 1 INGREDIENTS

1

jalapeño pepper, lightly chopped

1 cup

cilantro

1 tbsp

Aji Amarillo paste

1 tbsp

minced garlic

½

lime, juiced

½ cup

mayo

1 tsp

kosher salt

1/2 tsp

black pepper

1½ tbsp

olive oil

¼ tsp

cayenne pepper

¼ tsp

ground cumin

INSTRUCTIONS

Add all ingredients to a food processor or blender. Pulse to incorporate. While blender is running, drizzle in olive oil. Scrape from blender and refrigerate.

PLUM POBLANO SAUCE Melissa Cookston | Chef/Owner STEAK by Melissa, Memphis BBQ Co. (Memphis) Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS

1 ½ tbsp sesame oil ¼ cup

red onion, chopped

1 clove

garlic, minced

½

poblano pepper, seeded, roasted & diced

½ tbsp

fresh ginger, minced

2 tbsp

soy sauce

½ tsp

red pepper flakes

1 ½ tbsp honey 6

plums, peeled, pitted and quartered

INSTRUCTIONS

Add sesame oil to a medium sauce pan over medium high heat. Add onions and garlic and cook until softened. Add poblano peppers, ginger, soy sauce, red pepper flakes and honey. Whisk to incorporate.

Cook until almost bubbly, about three minutes. Add plums and cook until they begin to break down, stirring often. This will take about 20 minutes. Test plums for softness. Remove from heat. It should be served immediately or cooled and heated later.

SUMMER 2019 | 43

PRODUCT REVIEWS

Blended burgers are a big, beefy trend

by Mindy Kolof

The meat-and-mushroom blended burger has journeyed from inception phase to one of culinary’s top trends in less than a decade, neatly bringing a full package of health, flavor and sustainability to the menu. We share the secrets of the blended burger below, along with recipes to help you bring this umami-rich dish into the spotlight.

It began in 2011 with an eye-opening study from the Culinary Institute of America, the University of California and the Mushroom Council, designed to test consumer acceptance of mushrooms as a partial substitute for meat in classic dishes such as burgers. Mushrooms as hero ingredient came into full focus as participants indicated a marked preference for blended meat over 100-percent beef, citing its enhanced aroma, flavor, texture and moistness. Even ratcheting down the sodium by 25 percent didn’t dampen the enthusiasm, with tasters describing it as “just about right.” Clearly, it was time to tap into mushrooms’ mass appeal.

Remembers Sarah Drew, JBF impact programs manager: “Enthusiasm for this initiative was strong right out of the gate, with 200 restaurants participating. Over the last four years combined, more than 1,000 restaurants across the nation have joined the project and nearly three million consumers cast votes for their favorite local blended burger.”

Enter the James Beard Foundation (JBF), intrigued by the strong connection to its mission of creating a more diverse and sustainable food culture. The Blended Burger Project was born in 2015, a national competition encouraging chefs to sub in one quarter of a recipe’s beef with mushrooms to create a unique, marketable and truly better burger.

As Drew explains, the rise of the plant-forward diet, focus on nutrition and recognition of mushrooms as both model of sustainable production and top culinary trend created a perfect storm around the blended burger concept. Now a much-anticipated yearly event, hundreds of chefs are chopping and sauteeing their way to an all-expenses-paid trip to cook at the James Beard House in New York this summer. n

44 | RESTAURANT INC

Success begat more success, as Blended Burger Project winners reaped the promotional value of their prize-worthy creations on the menu, attracting diners looking for a not-quite-meatless bridge to healthier eating.

Learn more at Jamesbeard.org/blendedburgerproject SUMMER 2019 | 45

FROM THE KITCHEN

MAKING

THEIR MARK Victor Ozols

The Eagle Ridge team launches the brand into a bold new future These are exciting times for Eagle Ridge. As the Reinhart brand undergoes a sweeping relaunch—complete with a new certified angus beef program—its team of young guns is busy making great steaks more approachable than ever. Here, three of the people shaping Eagle Ridge’s future share their thoughts on delivering the dining experiences consumers are looking for today.

46 | RESTAURANT INC

JON LERCH

Vice President of Meat Operations Eagle Ridge® & Legacy 72™

JUSTIN VANHORN Eagle Ridge® & Legacy 72™ Chef

AMANDA PAGE

Marketing Administrator Eagle Ridge® & Legacy 72™

SUMMER 2019 | 47

FROM THE KITCHEN

meet the

meats

KC Strip rfs#30090

Season strip with salt and pepper and sear each side in a cast iron.

Braise with a shot of bourbon and finish in the oven. Serve with Chimichurri and frites.

Chuck Short Rib rfs#31168

Rub lollipop with a mixture of Dijon mustard, prepared horseradish, minced garlic, salt, and pepper. Sear in a Dutch oven with roughly chopped onions.

Once seared, braise with a Lakefront River west Stein, add minced garlic and a bay leaf. Cover and place in the oven cook until fork tender. Serve with roasted veggie medley and juice from cooking the meat.

NY Strip Steak rfs#29614

The focus is on providing superior quality products with a traceable background, according to Jon Lerch, Reinhart’s vice president for meat operations.

“We launched our new Legacy 72 Angus by Eagle Ridge product line, which is an upper two-thirds certified Angus product, in May,” he says.

“It’s a hot commodity out there across all the markets.”

The line is a perfect fit for a marketplace in which diners are more conscientious than ever about what they’re eating.

“It’s a breed-specific, 51 percent, black-hide program, and it creates a premium quality product underneath the breeding standards of that program,” he explains.

48 | RESTAURANT INC

As part of the relaunch, the brand’s facilities and packaging are being improved as well, Lerch says.

“We’re working with our La Crosse, Wis., meat-cutting plant, upgrading the equipment and production facility to better service all of our customers,” he says. “We’re also changing all of our boxes and going to a corrugated craft box for sustainability reasons.”

Even the tagline has been changed to reflect the history of the brand.

“Our new tagline is ‘Handcrafted meats since 1972’ because the Reinhart organization was started from a meat plant in Wisconsin in 1972,” Lerch explains. “Legacy 72 now ties back to our tagline, and we can develop the story of how the company was started from a meat company.”

Boneless Ribeye Steak rfs#29336

Tenderloin rfs#29786

Season tenderloin with salt and pepper. Place in the oven and roast to medium rare. While tenderloin is roasting on a skewer, place red onion, fresh mozzarella, and cherry tomato wrapped in a fresh basil leaf. Once your tenderloin is done, slice thin fold in half, and zig zag on the end of the skewer. Finish with balsamic glaze.

Porterhouse Steak rfs#29932

Season Porterhouse steak with salt, pepper and minced garlic. Turn oven on broil. Wait 20 minutes and place steak on broiler pan and cook to the desired temperature. Serve with creamed peas and onions and a baked potato.

The new Angus program is designed to meet the demands of the modern consumer, according to Amanda Page, marketing administrator for Eagle Ridge.

“Legacy 72 Angus boxed beef is a certified program, which you can find on the USDA website,” she explains. “The demand for high-quality beef is out there, and our sales teams now have a great program to become a leader in selling center of the plate.”

Consistency in quality, along with a broad product line, is essential to success, Page adds.

“Legacy 72 Angus boxed beef comes from a single facility in Dakota City, which is located in the heart of the Midwest,” she says. “Having a single sourced facility provides consistency in our program.”

“We have a great assortment of products, with roughly 27 different boxed beef items,” she continues. “With multiple Eagle Ridge copackers across Reinhart Country, they are able to take our Angus boxed beef and further process the product and provide our customers a cut steak program as well.”

When all is said and done, the value of the Legacy 72 Angus program can be found on the plate, says Eagle Ridge chef Justin Vanhorn.

“The meats speak for themselves,” no matter how they’re prepared, Vanhorn says. “From plain old salt and pepper, to searing them with a blueberry horseradish glaze, to a perfectly grilled steak topped with a chimichurri and served with a simple frites.” n

SUMMER 2019 | 49

MEAT The Butcher

Strip Steak Bone-In Strip Steak Tenderloin Porterhouse T-Bone

[ADVERTORIAL]

Beef loin Beef loin

Beef Loin, Strip Loin Steak, Boneless NAMP# 1180

Beef Loin, Striploin, Boneless NAMP# 180

Beef loin Beef Loin, Strip Loin Steak, Split, Boneless NAMP# 1180B

*Images courtesy of National Cattlemen’s Beef Association

Some of our staples cuts come from the Loin Primal. In addition to the Strip Steak, you will find the Porterhouse, T-Bone, and Tenderloin coming from the loin primal.

All a hot commodity during grilling season! is the difference between an end to end strip and Q: What a center cut?

A:

A Center Cut strip steak will be processed from the centerpiece of the loin without the sirloin end, and if the Vein end is present it can only be visible on one side. The End to End cut will contain steaks with the vein end on both sides.

Q: Where does the strip steak cut come from? below the backbone is where the loin primal is located and A: Right where some of the most tender and popular cuts come from — for example, the tenderloin, Strip Steak, T-Bone, Porterhouse. product specifications should one consider when ordering Q: What a strip steak? are many things to take into consideration when ordering A: There strip steaks such as grade, size, bone-in or boneless, age of the product, and tail length.

Q: What other traditional cuts come from the Loin Primal? of our most popular cuts come from the loin primal such as A: Some the Tenderloin, Porterhouse, and T-bone. All great choices for the grilling season!

What are namP numbers?

North American Meat Processor Numbers are used to classify cuts of meat so they can be easily identified. Each primal, and or cut, has certain spec requirements listed in The Meat Buyer’s Guide.

All Eagle Ridge processors cut to NAMP specifications to keep consistency across Reinhart Country.

Q: A:

Q: A: Q: A:

How is the marbling of beef evaluated?

According to the North American Meat Institute to determine the amount of marbling within a carcass, the USDA grader will evaluate the marbling within the ribeye muscle. Marbling refers to the flecks of fat contained within the muscle, also knows as intramuscular fat. A marbling score is used to measure and communicate the amount of fat within the muscle. Meat with a high marbling content can attain the highest quality grade of Prime. Most graded carcasses will take on a choice or select quality grade.

What is the suggested age for Beef?

Bone-In product we suggest between 14 and 21 days & boneless 21and 30 days wet age.

What is the difference between wet aged and dry aged?

Wet aging is more common and occurs in vacuum bags under refrigerated temperatures of 32ºF to 36ºF Dry aging is not as common. More complex method and can result in yield losses due to dehydration. Occurs under refrigerated temperatures of 32ºF to 34ºF in a humidity controlled environment

Cooking methods Grill

Broil

Pan-Broil/Skillet

Food safety tip

Cooking: Always use a meat thermometer to ensure the product is not undercooked.

Serving: Do not reuse containers that have stored raw beef until cleaned and sanitized.

FROM THE KITCHEN

Going Deep Victor Ozols

Black River Meats finds success in sustainability It’s 2019, and consumers of sustainable meat products are more knowledgeable than ever. For Black River Meats, Reinhart’s sustainable meat program in the Northeast, that calls for a portfolio that represents uncompromising standards in both quality and ethics. Whether it’s beef, pork, lamb or smoked meats, every product under the Black River banner comes from a small farm that raises animals with care—and without the use of antibiotics or growth hormones.

52 | RESTAURANT INC

It’s a process that results in a superior product that people trust, according to Sean Buchanan, vice president of sales and marketing for sustainable and specialty food programs at Reinhart.

“We’re doing an organic ground beef hamburger patty for the summer,” he says. “The beef program is a never-ever hormones or antibiotics program that’s pasture-based in New England and upstate New York.”

“People are looking for the third-party audit,” he explains.

“We work with Certified Humane right now, and we work with Oregon Tilth for our USDA organic certification.”

After that: a prepared barbecue product from an unlikely state.

Buchanan says that certified products are particularly important to restaurateurs who wish to grow while maintaining an ethos of sustainability.

“These programs give value to restaurateurs, especially as they put their ethos on paper and say ‘We only want to serve products that represent these values’,” he explains. “It also gives value to the consumer when they go to a restaurant and see that the meats are certified humane. They feel good about spending money there.”

Of course it’s easy to enjoy sustainable meats when they’re also delicious, and Black River’s latest offerings are drawing raves.

“What’s been new this year is the no-nitrate, uncured, Certified Humane bacon. It was a big success when it came out,” Buchanan continues.

And for summer grilling, sustainable burgers are on the menu.

“Coming down the pike, we’re looking to do 100 percent, fully cooked, Vermont-raised pork in barbecue sauce,” Buchanan says. “Some operators wanted a local product where the animal is raised in the state of Vermont, with no antibiotics and no hormones ever.”

There’s even something for fans of sustainable sausage.

“We’re coming out with a dry-cure program,” he adds.

“We’ll be doing a chorizo, a soppressata and a hot soppressata.”

It’s all in the service of guests who know exactly what they want.

“Now, especially on the higher end, it’s about the breed of livestock, how it’s raised, what it’s fed, how it’s cut, how it tastes, and we’re seeing this differentiation in the marketplace,” Buchanan says. “People are being more specific—they’re not just looking for all-you-can-eat prime rib.” 

“It also gives value to the consumer when they go to a restaurant and see that the meats are certified humane. They feel good about spending money there.”

- Sean Buchanan

VP of Sales & Marketing for sustainable and specialty food programs Reinhart Foodservice Boston

SUMMER 2019 | 53

FROM THE KITCHEN

grills gone wild Jeffrey Ward

How chefs are introducing game into their summer repertoires

Though diners are accustomed to seeing wild game on restaurant menus during fall and winter, there is no reason to confine these proteins to menu development during those seasons only. Per the USDA, uncooked wild game retains appealing texture, color, vitamin content and flavor for up to a year in a commercial freezer, allowing everything from elk to venison to shine when grilling and barbecuing takes center stage. Because these proteins are leaner, they can also appeal to lighter appetites during hotter months.

Consumers, however, may still be reluctant. “This is my favorite subject,” says chef Daria Parish of Reinhart’s La Crosse, Wis., division.

“Seasonal game is seen undesirable,” she continues. “How do you

54 | RESTAURANT INC

overcome that?” She recommends thawing red meat game halfway before soaking in buttermilk or yogurt until it runs pink, as this will take out the funk. Lighter game may be soaked in salt water. Then season and marinade. Briquette choice also plays a major role, with hickory and mesquite best suited for red game and apple or cherry for lighter game.

Reinhart Foodservice division corporate chef Demetrio Marquez says the key to working with wild game is in the cooking process, navigating the hot and cool spots of the grill. After the briquettes have reached 350 F, mark and sear the game before moving to the cooler area at 225 F.

“Go low and slow with the lid down,” he advises. To keep some moisture in these lean meats, he often wraps them in bacon during the slow-roast process, as it fortifies the meat and keeps the fat in.

Venison is a summer staple for Marquez, who pulls the back strap off the deer and cuts into kabobs, basting in chimichurri and dressing with rosemary, garlic and wild mushrooms. Roasted squirrel plays off turnip greens, ramps or onions.

Parish also suggests sticking with what’s in season. “Dark berries and game meat is a match made in heaven,” she says, serving with venison

and wild boar, adding, “quail and rabbit are very summery, so delicate.” (see page 56 for Chef Parish’s recipes.) For the former, she prepares with honeyed tequila apricots and hazelnuts; the latter with chermoula, a bright, garlicky herb sauce from North Africa.

Respect, ultimately, is the secret ingredient in working with wild game.

“It’s the way our forefathers ate,” says Marquez. “Cooking over fire takes it to a higher level. It’s rustic and primitive, all natural and the time process involved makes people enjoy it even more.” 

SUMMER 2019 | 55

FROM THE KITCHEN

GRILLED RABBIT WITH CHERMOULA Daria Parish | Sales Consultant, Reinhart La Crosse Division Servings: 8 INGREDIENTS

1

rabbit

2 tbsp

avocado oil

Salt and pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

Joint rabbit and soak in salt water with ice for approximately one hour, then dry on towel. Season with salt, pepper and rub lightly with avocado oil. Start cooking presentation side down, on high heat spot of the grill, flipping after five minutes and cooking five more minutes on high heat, center of grill. Use charcoal and wood for flavor profile. Once browned, move to the edges on grill and cook for another seven minutes to 10 minutes, flipping and rearranging as necessary.

CHERMOULA INGREDIENTS

½ cup

extra virgin olive oil

Juice half lime (optional chopped 1 tbsp preserved lemon) 5 threads saffron, steeped in 2 tbsp hot water Âź cup

parsley, chopped

4 tbsp

mint, chopped

4 tbsp

cilantro, chopped

1 to 2

garlic cloves, chopped

Pinch

crushed red pepper

1 tsp

sweet paprika

Pinch

ground coriander

Pinch

ground cumin

Salt and pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

56 | RESTAURANT INC

Combine all ingredient and let sit for at least six hours.

GRILLED QUAIL WITH HONEYED TEQUILA APRICOTS AND HAZELNUTS Daria Parish | Sales Consultant, Reinhart La Crosse Division Servings: 4 INGREDIENTS

4 quail Ras el hanout to taste Salt to taste INSTRUCTIONS

Quail should be spachcocked (backbone removed, flattened). Lightly rub quail with oil and minimal amounts of ras el hanout and salt. Start on hot spot of grill presentation side down, flip after three minutes and repeat. Move to cool spot of grill and finish cooking, about 12 minutes total time.

HONEYED TEQUILA APRICOTS AND HAZELNUTS

In a small pot, combine one-half cup good quality tequila, one-fourth cup honey (add more if necessary), one cinnamon stick broken in half, juice of two small limes, onethird cup of diced dry apricots, salt and pepper to taste.

Slowly bring to a boil to combine ingredients and cook out alcohol. Set aside and adjust seasonings as necessary.

PRESENTATION:

Place quail on large platter and sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts. Serve sauce on the side or spoon over quail before garnishing with hazelnuts. The nuts can optionally be chopped and added to the sauce.

See full recipe online.

ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS ROMESCO Rida El Azri Ennassiri | Executive Chef, Cyrus Hotel (Topeka, Kan.) Servings: 6 INGREDIENTS

2 lbs

Brussels sprouts, trimmed

6 tbsp

olive oil

6 tbsp

melted butter

4 tsp

kosher salt

2 tsp

freshly ground black pepper

8 oz

cooked bacon, chopped

4 oz

Romesco sauce, recipe online

INSTRUCTIONS

Combine Brussels sprouts, olive oil, melted butter, salt and pepper in large plastic food bag. Seal tightly; shake to coat.

Spread out on large baking sheet.

Roast at 400 F about 15 minutes, shaking pan every five minutes for even browning. Reduce heat as necessary to prevent burning. Brussels sprouts should be darkest brown, almost black, when done. Adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary. Add chopped bacon and coat with Romesco sauce. Serve immediately.

SUMMER 2019 | 57

WITH COBBLESTREET MKT TURKEY, you can offer guests another great way to enjoy your barbeque flavors.

®

[ADVERTORIAL]

TURKEY IS IN THE HOUSE.

WHY SMOKED TURKEY HAS BECOME A HOT MENU ITEM. It’s true, 63% of all barbeque restaurants have a turkey offering on their menu.1 Obviously, beef and pork are traditional favorites, but turkey is coming on strong for several great reasons.

TURKEY FITS THE BARBEQUE MENU. Turkey readily absorbs the unique flavors from your smoking process, sauces and rubs – so you can offer your unique flavor while embracing patron expectations for beef and pork alternatives.

9 of the

Top10 Texas barbeque restaurants have turkey on the menu.3

YOU GET SUPERIOR YIELD. Smoked turkey gives you a cooked yield of about 80% when prepared in a smoker, versus about 50% yield for beef brisket.2 That’s huge!

IT’S SMOKEHOUSE FRIENDLY. Turkey is easy to smoke, prep and serve. It smokes in less time compared to other proteins, and it goes everywhere: platters, sandwiches, barbeque bowls, salads and combos.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE COBBLESTREET MKT® Turkey Breast Roasts and the Breast & Thigh Roast are perfect for

TURKEY BREAST

Yield: 80% | Menu Price: $14.99/lb

Yield: 50% | Menu Price: $15.99/lb

Turkey Breast

Beef Brisket

10 lbs. raw

Smoking Yield

10 lbs. x 80% = 8 lbs.

Sales Revenue

8 lbs. x $14.99 = $119.92**

smoking, grilling and barbeque applications.

BRISKET

SILVERBROOK™ All Natural* Turkey Burger.

Just grill it and sauce it for great barbeque flavor.

10 lbs. raw

Smoking Yield

10 lbs. x 50% = 5 lbs.

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5 lbs. x $15.99 = $79.95**

Ask about SILVERBROOK™ and COBBLESTREET MKT® turkey for your menu.

Contact your Reinhart Sales Consultant today.

1

2018 – Datassential Menu Trends, Restaurant List: US Chains & Independents 2018 Sample Base: analysis based on 163 qualifying restaurants

2

2016 In-House Operator Yield Test - Responses

3

2018 – Texas Monthly, The Golden Age of barbeque

*Minimally processed and contains no artificial ingredients ** This is example pricing.

©2019 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. Cobblestreet MKT® is a registered trademark of Independent Marketing Alliance. Silverbrook® is a registered trademark of Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C.

FROM THE KITCHEN

Regional Barbecue A Truly American Cuisine Jeffrey Ward 60 | RESTAURANT INC

What U.S. city boasts the best barbecue? Traditions overlap and communities often bring a wild mix of cultural influences into their grilled meats, ensuring lively debate over platters of pulled pork, ribs and sometimes lamb, chicken and seafood. If anything is an indicator of a truly American cuisine, it is this.

For many, Texas barbecue means one thing: beef brisket, a cut so tough that it takes up to 24 hours of cooking. The fatty, flavorful meat is served sparingly with a ketchup-based sauce. Though born in Texas and currently based in Tennessee, Reinhart Knoxville regional chef David Quick remains Texan at heart, marveling at idiosyncrasies between Lone Star cities.

“In San Antonio, you’ll find the best pork ribs, smoked on mesquite and served with a Tex-Mex flare,” he says. “In Austin, the meats are smoked in post oak and served with pinto beans, mac and cheese, slaw and pickles; and Houston is more traditional with some New Orleans flair added on, including Cajun-style boudin sausages.”

In Kansas City, Mo., the focus falls on spare ribs and beef brisket served with a sticky, spicy sweet sauce.

Barbecue is so ingrained into daily culture here that it’s widely declared as America’s barbecue capital. It also lays claim for ”burnt ends,” the fatty, burned, topedge brisket pieces first made famous in the 1970s

by Arthur Bryant’s, which passed it out as a treat to people waiting in line at the restaurant.

“When I moved here,” recalls Reinhart chef Yvette Marie Hirang of the Kansas City region, “I went to

Arthur Bryant’s, and it was an awakening.”

Memphis positions itself as a formidable challenger to Kansas City as a true barbecue epicenter. Ribs, both wet and dry, as well as shredded pork define the landscape here; the sauce is traditional tomato and vinegar.

Chef Melissa Cookston, owner of Memphis BBQ Co., contends the rub is the main flavor. “It’s sweet, salty, sultry and acidic with a little kick, from the tip of your tongue to the back of your throat,” she describes.

Favoring pecan wood, which produces a very light smoke, Cookston sees Memphis as the most varied barbecue style. “Think of the regions,” she explains.

“We’re in between Texas, North Carolina and Kansas.

We bring all of those together for a full flavor profile.”

Possibly the oldest style in America, Carolina barbecue is known for pork smoked over oak or hickory, though it depends on where you are as to whether the whole hog is smoked, then chopped together (eastern North Carolina) or if shoulder-only is preferred (western North Carolina and South Carolina).

Even New Orleans, with a rich culinary identity all its own, boasts a well-known tradition in its storied barbecue shrimp. Chef Julius Russell, owner of A Tale of Two Chefs, a Chicago-based experiential culinary company that often focuses on the Big Easy, jokingly dismisses the idea. “Look, you are New Orleans, you are not allowed to have barbecue, you can’t have everything,” he says. 

SUMMER 2019 | 61

BETTER BURGERS Burger season is here, and get your grill sizzlin’ with the quality, consistency, and full flavor of burgers from Prairie Creek.

Big Sky Patty

Premium burger, 100% USDA Choice Black Angus beef chuck

Cheyenne Patty Pre-seasoned with bread crumbs

Stampede Patty

Seasoned patty, minimal ingredients

FROM THE KITCHEN

Exploring Korean BBQ Mindy Kolof K-pop is big, but K-BBQ is even bigger and found in every part of the United States. We explore why this legacy cuisine sizzles with opportunity for American operators. Grills are optional.

Forget low and slow, with big hunks of meat. Korean barbecue focuses on smaller cuts like strips of sirloin (featured in the signature dish bulgogi), sliced pork belly and beef short ribs, which come ready to sear hot and fast over a charcoal brazier right at the table, often by the diners themselves.

Also part of the experience is an impressive array of small bowls filled with flavorful accompaniments called panchan that line the table. These can include fermented kimchi, gochujang paste, sweet-and-sour cucumbers, a fresh mung bean salad, sesame salt, dipping sauces and crisp lettuce leaves or rice sheets to wrap it all up. Sweet, salty, spicy, savory, acidic, crunchy, meaty, juicy—everything is on the table to let diners choose their perfect balance.

“The barbecue is a gateway to Korean food. I’ve never met anyone who didn’t like it,” says Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee, an award-winning writer and author of Eating Korean: From Barbecue to Kimchi. “In Korea, barbecue is very much a restaurant experience only, saved for special occasions.”

Everything is done with purpose, according to Lee, so unseasoned beef is served first, and fattier dishes with more marinades follow. Steamed rice comes out after the accompaniments, so as not to sate appetites too quickly, and the final dinner touch is often a tasty fried rice made at the table grill.

For U.S. restaurateurs, paying homage to the cuisine can be as simple as adding a Korean barbecue burger to the menu, or using Korean-inspired seasonings and marinades on appetizers, wings, pizzas and sandwiches.

“That’s a perfect way to introduce Korean flavors to diners without the need for a lot of specialty ingredients,” says Mike Kostyo, Datassential’s “trendologist.” His top pick is gochujang, a spicy chili pepper paste that appeals to American palates.

“Everyone was looking for the next sriracha, and gochujang stepped in, offering a little bit of sweetness in an authentic way,” he says.

SUMMER 2019 | 63

FROM THE KITCHEN

GOING GLOBAL

American barbecue takes on an international accent Victor Ozols

It may be the quintessential American culinary style, but barbecue provides the perfect template to experiment with flavors from around the world.

Recognizing an opportunity to differentiate themselves in an increasingly competitive field, barbecue chefs across the country are doing just that as they add menu items inspired by their own background and heritage.

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As with most styles of cooking, it’s all in the spices. In its bustling New York location, Dinosaur Bar-B-Que gives a nod to Jamaica with its jerk lamb shoulder sliders and jumbo chicken wings with jerk glaze, the signature allspice adding a savory kick.

At nearby Pig Beach, co-owner Matt Abdoo channeled his family background to develop a recipe for Lebanese-seasoned ribs, creating a surprise hit. “Matt’s Lebanese and Italian, so he came up with a Lebanese spice rub and a New York City shawarma cart-style white sauce,” says partner Shane McBride. “We always sell out when we make them.”

And at newly opened Baobab BBQ in Chicago, owner Andrew Dunlop takes inspiration from the flavors of his native South Africa.

“This is a barbecue joint with a South African accent,” he explains. “We incorporate African flavors into our rubs and into a few of our dishes, which are South African comfort foods, but we adhere to most of the rules of smoking in the United States.”

That means guests will find familiar barbecue staples, but with a slightly different spice blend.

“We use a lot of piri piri, which is a Portuguese/Mozambican chili pepper, and we use a lot of coriander seed, but it’s very subtle,” Dunlop explains. “It would take a knowledgeable palate to know the difference because our heat is the same as you’d find in a rub in Kansas.”

he says. “We’ll smoke them for four hours, glaze them with a house barbecue sauce that has a little cumin in it and finish them off under a broiler.”

The same South African rub is used on Baobab’s pulled pork, which is served as both a sandwich and a platter.

“We use bone-in shoulder butt and smoke them for 14 hours,” he says. “They come out falling off the bone.”

South Africa has its own barbecue tradition called the braai, where Dunlop finds the inspiration for his classic boerewors sausage.

“We do a traditional South African farmer’s sausage, which we serve as a sandwich,” he says. “It’s one of the key components of a braai: boerewors, chicken and lamb chops.”

But while its meats are American with a slight accent, Baobab’s desserts are entirely South African.

“Our most popular dessert is called malva pudding, and it’s like a sponge cake that has been soaked in a vanilla and butter syrup, and we serve vanilla ice cream on top of it,” Dunlop says. “Then we do a traditional South African vanilla pastry cream tart, and a traditional South African braided donut served cold that we dip in a lemon syrup.” 

Those who wish to taste that subtle difference can order the ribs.

“We have a special rub that we created for our baby back ribs that has oregano, piri piri, dark chili powder and brown sugar,”

“This is a barbecue joint with a South African accent. We incorporate African flavors into our rubs and into a few of our dishes, which are South African comfort foods, but we adhere to most of the rules of smoking in the United States.”

- Andrew Dunlop

Owner of Baobab BBQ

SUMMER 2019 | 65

Marketable Health Benefits: it's real fruit.

Only the water is removed.

Labor Saving: No washing, peeling,

slicing, dicing or coring. Ready to use.

No Waste: Every piece of dried fruit,

in every case of product, is a perfect piece of dried fruit.

Consistency: in quality and cost,

making it easier for the operator to project food costs.

Shelf-Stable, Plant­ Based Toppings are Essential for Every Kitchen Pantry.

Versatility: Sun dried

fruit is easily adaptable to most restaurant menus in all day parts.

A desire for healthier, cleaner lifestyles is motivating consumers to incorporate more natural, plant-based ingredients such as dried fruits into their diets. In the United States, 30% of adults are attempting to make the switch to a more plant-based diet.*

Tl7is quick and_fres/7 side dis/7 or l/gl7t lunc/7 entree _features Bountiful Harvest sun dried tomatoes Cut o_fft/7e osf)orogus bottoms and discord Cut the tif)s o_f the asf)arogus and odd them into a bowl. Shove the ďż˝ shoots into tl7in r;bbons tl7en odd tl7em w;th the tif)s.

*Source: lnnova Marketing lnsig/7ts Using premium dried fruit as a topping results in better visual and taste appeal. Menu items with dried fruit offer nutrient dense flavor with a vibrant color, making them a smart topping for consumers and operators alike!

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ASPARA&US SALAU WITH CALIFORNIA SUN URIEU TOMATOES: Contact your Reinhart Sales Consultant for more details about dry fruit and vegetable toppings.

Now it really gets easy Add to the bowl, sliced radishes, julienned sun dried tomatoes, walnuts, s/7oved Parmesan, lemon zest, salt, f)ef)f)er, lemon juice and tof) it o_ff with sun dried tomato ol"ve 01!

Toss it all together_for a quick and_fres/7 dis/7.

FROM THE KITCHEN

Ancient Himalayan Salt Slabs Cook Just About Everything Erica Bethe Levin

Himalayan salt is more than 600 million years old, but only recently did it become popular in the United States as a method for cooking.

Many chefs have begun to employ this ancient cooking technique and relish in its benefits when it comes to flavor and presentation.

Rick Gresh was a pioneer in bringing the salt slab to the forefront when he helmed the kitchen of David Burke’s Primehouse in Chicago. “There are myriad ways to use the salt plank,” says Gresh, who now serves as director of culinary USA for Social Entertainment Ventures. “You can sear over an open flame, bake or slow roast, even use it on your grill.”

Though his favorite proteins are New York strip steaks, beef ribeyes, lamb chops and foie gras, the slab is great for pancakes, blinis and French toast, too. “I love slow roasting carrots and fennel, or caramelizing onions and mushrooms on my charcoal grill,” he continues. “Smoking halved eggplant while it sits on the slab is super delicious, too.”

Gresh enjoys using salt slabs for home cooking—as a stone hearth in the oven for pizzas, breads or chocolate chip cookies, to smash avocados for guacamole and as “the brick” for salt brick chicken— but he also recognizes that the “showy” element of it boosts intrigue in a restaurant setting.

“It’s a really beautiful presentation piece that comes in many different shapes, sizes and colors. It can be used like a Korean hot rock where guests can cook skewers at their table. I’ll use small salt blocks and treat it as an amuse course for each guest.”

And if you really want to kick it up a notch or surprise your diners, Gresh recommends “freezing the salt blocks, then smashing up ice cream, fruit and caramel for salted caramel ice cream. Or, it’s a fun tableside presentation where guests can pick different ingredients to add to their sundaes. I also love serving carpaccio-style items on the salt like wagyu beef or Ahi tuna.”

The possibilities are endless, but one word of caution: Don’t use on a buffet as the food will absorb too much salt. 

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FROM THE KITCHEN

RISING FROM THE PITS Innovative ingredients and modern spaces make barbecue attractive to new customers Victor Ozols Barbecue is going upscale. Ever since 2002, when Blue Smoke seduced the well-heeled residents of Manhattan’s Flatiron District with premium versions of pit classics, operators have known that even power-suited professionals enjoy a barbecue feast. In trying to reach them, today’s most innovative barbecue restaurants are responding with health-conscious ingredients, innovative preparations, and a fresh, modern atmosphere.

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“I love barbecue and I think its potential is yet to be realized,” says Jimmy Schmidt, chef and owner of Lucky’s Noble BBQ in Detroit. “As we rethink what barbecue is, and apply modern techniques and thought processes to it, barbecue can become an amazing new menu category.”

For Lucky’s, located in the city’s brand-new Fort Street Galley food hall and restaurant incubator, that means rethinking a staple protein source, and eliminating another entirely.

“We’re working with wagyu beef for our protein source, along with king salmon and shrimp and really noble protein ingredients,” he explains. “Wagyu beef is high in omega fatty acids, which are good for you.”

According to Schmidt, Lucky’s focus on wagyu yields some sweet results.

“The goal, is to give people ‘foods you love that love you back’ in terms of nutrition.”

- Jimmy Schmidt

Chef & Owner of Lucky’s Noble BBQ

“We cure it like bacon with salt and sugar, we smoke it like bacon, and then we slow-cook it with barbecue spices,” he explains. “It’s a multi-step process, but it develops the umami flavor and the depth of the wagyu, and it really turns it into barbecued beef candy.”

The goal, according to Schmidt, is to give people “foods you love that love you back” in terms of nutrition. That translates into items like Lucky’s wagyu kalbi beef sandwich (“made with the best center cut out of the short plate”), wagyu beef short rib with cauliflower risotto and wagyu beef back long ribs.

“They’re giant beef ribs, and they’re amazing,” Schmidt says.

The restaurant has seen brisk business since opening last December, especially with its proximity to downtown office buildings.

“People do love barbecue, and they are very open to eating better,” he explains. “We’re running about 60 percent repeat customers.”

At Philadelphia’s Rex 1516, some of the city’s best barbecue is served in an elegant dining room complete with chandeliers, candlelight and oil paintings—and not one neon beer sign in sight.

Barbecue staples like smoked wings and St. Louis-style spare ribs share the menu with fried chicken, fried green tomatoes, and shrimp and grits, drawing a smart crowd to this chic Rittenhouse Square establishment. 

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k r o P

FROM THE KITCHEN

th i w g layin

P

v ice d a s ’ s ter a m i t is t p L A Two

p ig e h t ill ing r g n o

Barbecue Barbecue is is big big business business in in the the United United States, States, and while some pitmasters are content with serving the masses traditional, smoked meats, others prefer to go the unconventional route. And it’s not just for the sake of being different.

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It’s an an opportunity, opportunity,

for example, to showcase pork in all its grilled glory, one prominent chef relishes, without limitations in say, like a smoked pork curry bowl. Another culinary expert says it’s all in the cut and offering guests something not often found on menus, such as pork brisket.

As summer heats up, it’s never too late to tweak an item or two on your menu. Here, we seek the advice of two celebrated pitmasters: Charlie “The Meat Guy” Torgerson and Ray Lampe—better known to the world as “Dr. BBQ.”

Make it a cut above—with offbeat pork cuts For Chef Torgerson, seeking out different pork cuts comes naturally for him. Professionally trained at New York’s prominent Culinary Institute of America, he learned the art of butchery early on from his uncle and grandmother by way of his grandfather.

He’s had years of professional service, of course, to explore various cuts, from almost 20 years spent in the kitchens at Famous Dave’s to his barbecuefocused eatery in Alaska to his current situation as chef/ owner at RC’s BBQ at the Minnesota State Fair. At the latter, he entices fair-goers with unique, yet fun fare.

“I’m always looking for the goofy little cuts,” says Torgerson. “I always come up with a cool new pork item, from pig ear French fries to Korean barbecue collar.”

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He appreciates that other chefs, particularly in the Midwest and on the East Coast, also use different cuts like pork steaks and cook them in unexpected ways.

“Some of these hot-shot chefs in Minnesota or in New York,” says Torgerson, “are taking those cuts—and not just smoking them with a rub—and getting a little Asian influence in there or Hispanic influence in there.”

well-crafted menu, he features pork brisket as one of the specialty meats.

“We’re the number one seller of pork brisket in the country,” he says proudly. “It’s tasty and people really like it. It’s for sure sweeter [than beef brisket] and has a different texture.”

More than a trend; it’s lifestyle cuisine

The goal should always be to showcase familiar items, but with a twist, advises Dr. BBQ. That’s what he does best at his eponymous eatery, which he opened with veteran restaurateurs Suzanne and Roger Perry last fall in Tampa, Fla. In addition to global barbecue styles and dishes on his

As more diners shift toward eating less meat, Torgerson suggests using leaner cuts as a flavor enhancer in dishes.

“Everyone’s looking for heart-healthy [recipes] nowadays, and you can do that with specific cuts of pork and make some great bowls,” he recommends.

“I do consulting for some restaurants, and any time I show any kind of bowl, whether it’s a curry bowl or anything that’s a pork-related type bowl, it’s a big hit on the menu.”

– Charlie Torgerson 72 | RESTAURANT INC

“We’ve gotten more conscientious about knowing where stuff comes from. We thought that was a trend people would really appreciate, and so far, we’re right on the money.”

– Ray Lampe a.k.a. Dr. BBQ “You can use the loins or the back end of the pig that’s leaner and not as fat. You can bring some of that smoked element into your dishes.

thought we’d try a different approach and get the best stuff we could that people would hopefully understand and be willing to pay a little premium price for it.

“I do consulting for some restaurants, and any time I show any kind of bowl, whether it’s a curry bowl or anything that’s a pork-related type bowl, it’s a big hit on the menu.”

“We’re using pork from out of Minnesota from a family farm called Compart. We use bacon out of Wisconsin from Jones Dairy Farm, a sixth-generation, family-run business. We thought that was a trend people would really appreciate, and so far, we’re right on the money.” n

For Dr. BBQ, it’s about transparency and sharing ingredients’ origins with guests.

“We’ve gotten more conscientious about knowing where stuff comes from,” he says. “Not every barbecue restaurant is doing that because a lot of them are trying to fight the fight and keep the costs down as low as they can. We

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Wood Working M. Jane Johnson

Playing big in the magic of barbecue is wood smoke that snuggles up, cossets and kisses the food. We logged some time learning secrets about that sweet cloud of success.

What makes great barbecue? Right up there with meat, technique, sauce and timing is wood. Whether logs, chunk or chips, it’s more than mere fuel, it’s a backbone of sorts, its nuanced complexity not just mingling but fully conjoining with meat. “It’s an ingredient for sure, as important as the meat,” says Amy Mills, who, with her father, Mike Mills, owns 17th Street Barbecue in Murphysboro, Ill. Mills says selecting wood for 17th Street wasn’t a decision as much as it was a simple solution. “We’re in apple country, so there was plenty of wood from local orchards,” she says, adding that its flavor and burn are perfect for their style. “Wood is a regional marker for barbecue, and the apple wood is part of what defines us. You could change it up, but we don’t.”

According to Doug Psaltis, chef/partner of Chicago’s Bub City, mastering the craft doesn’t happen overnight, but the journey is delicious. “There’s a lot of trial and error to find what really suits you.”

Ted Terio, sales consultant for Reinhart Foodservice, concurs, adding that it’s important to match wood with food. “It’s a careful, flavordriven process. You don’t want to just taste wood,” says Terio. “Whether it’s a longer process or a fast smoke, you have to find the right balance. Then it’s magic.”

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MILD WOODS: Alder

A Pacific Northwest favorite ideal for all types of fish, especially salmon.

Maple Mild, sweet and versatile for poultry and seafood.

MEDIUM WOODS: Oak

This slow-burner is tailor-made for brisket.

Fruitwoods Apple, cherry, peach, pear: These generally have light, sweet smoke that infuses foods quickly. Each is subtly different, but they behave similarly for cooking.

HARD WOODS: Hickory

Sweet-tasting smoke closely associated with bacon. It’s great with pork, but use carefully; it can add overpowering bitterness.

Pecan A close kin to hickory, this is a regionally fave where pecan trees are abundant.

EXTRA-HARD: MESQUITE

Strong, earthy and strongly associated with Southwestern barbecue. It’s oily and burns hot and fast. Too much will impart a harsh taste, so it’s often mixed with other woods or used for a fast finish.

REGIONAL & LESSER USED WOODS Grape, mulberry, acacia, almond, cedar, olive, walnut/black walnut 

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FROM THE KITCHEN

Side Hustles M. Jane Johnson Barbecue is only at its very best when the smoky meat sidles up to a few perfectly made side dishes.

Hide-bound tradition has it that barbecue goes hand in glove with cole slaw, baked beans and potato salad.

“They’re the holy trinity of side dishes,” says Caleb Fischer, executive chef of Bow & Arrow in Auburn. Ala. And while for many, not menuing the stalwart stars would be unimaginable, Fischer looks to sidestep some of the old ways.

“Dave (Bancroft, Bow & Arrow partner) and I agreed to stay away from baked beans,” he says. “We wanted a more savory approach to sides, things that simmer a long time to develop flavor.”

simple, veg-forward dishes such as asparagus and Brussels sprouts. “We have leeway to offer sides that are comfortable and familiar, but that are made with the same care as you would bring to fine dining. Our guests appreciate that.”

Camp beans, potlikker greens and butterbeans illustrate the approach, while such add-ons as house-pickled vegetables and marinated onions bring welcome astringency to counter barbecue’s meaty richness.

Ted Terio, sales consultant for Reinhart Foodservice, firmly believes that barbecue sides are just as important as mains. “I understand both ends of the spectrum. Some people still love the classic sides, but there is a whole group that’s interested in newer items with stronger flavor profiling,” says Terio.

Joe Pruner, executive chef of Woodlake Tavern in Sacramento, Calif., gives due props to standard sides from the “barbecue belt,” but feels stronger affinity with California’s bounty.

“We’re lucky to be in an area flush with small produce farms.

We rotate sides off the menu pretty quickly so they show seasonality,” he says. Modernized mac and cheese, smoked onion rings and beef-tallow fries are permanent, joined by

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His advice? “When you think through the sides, make sure they complement the meat, have savory notes and some acidity to break down the fattiness of the meat.

“Contrasting textures is important, too, a little crunch. And mostly, you want to put lot of love into the sides,” he adds.

S S O T K A QUIC THE MENU. UP HEATS

HOT LIL BABBAIBEYSBAKERS™ ED

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For more than 20 years, we’ve been committed to harvesting the finest fruits and vegetables — and roasting them just right. Today, we do it just like you would. A little olive oil, a little roast and a lot of attention. It all adds up to one-of-a-kind fresh-roasted flavor that’s the talk of the table.

Discover simple without sacrifice.

Ask your Simplot sales rep or visit simplotfoods.com/roastworks. ©2018 J. R. Simplot Company

The foregoing trademarks are owned by the J. R. Simplot Company.

SUMMER

2019 | 77

BEHIND THE BAR

Pour It On !

Options for pairing drinks with produce-based food abounds

by Ari Bendersky

More chefs continue to add plant-based options from a variety of global cuisines to their menus, and that means you need to start getting more creative with how you pair drinks with those beautiful dishes. To get to the root of the matter, we tapped two experts—Davy Butterworth, beverage manager at Louisville’s Decca and Sean Burgess, beverage director at Pittsburgh’s Alta Via Ristorante—to help enlighten us to the possibilities.

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Pour It On !

KIMCHI DUMPLINGS WITH RED CABBAGE AND GINGER FOAM Butterworth: I went with albariño from Rias Baixas in northwest Spain. It has salinity, minerality and tropical fruit notes from the ocean air. It complements the sweet and sour note of kimchi and the tropical fruit profile goes with the unique flavors of kimchi.

SPICY UDON WITH TEMPEH, SHIITAKE MUSHROOM, TOASTED CASHEW AND TOGARASHI Butterworth: I went with torrontes from Argentina with salinity and tropical fruit notes that will tie in well with the lighter broth and make the whole experience unique. It doesn’t have too much sweetness and a bit of acid to help enjoy the dish more.

Burgess: This could be a perfect Moscow Mule to reinforce the ginger and add a little spiciness, but it’s still really a refreshing cocktail.

Burgess: With the spiciness, I went traditional with a German riesling so the residual sugar will help with the spiciness. If someone doesn’t like sweet wine, you can go with a drier Alsatian wine. I went pure contrast on this one.

GRAIN BOWL WITH QUINOA, BLACK LENTILS, CHARRED ROOT VEGETABLES, MARINATED KALE, AVOCADO, PIQUILLO ROMESCO AND PRESERVED LEMON TAHINI

HEIRLOOM TOMATO AND ZUCCHINI LASAGNA WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATO MARINARA, MACADAMIA RICOTTA AND BASIL PISTACHIO PESTO

Butterworth: A Willamette Valley pinot noir. It’s a light and delicate grape that’s very versatile. It takes on black tea aromatic notes that will go nicely with charred vegetables and the toast note of barrel aging and aromatics will also tie in nicely with the lighter grains.

Butterworth: My ideal pairing for marinara is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. It has nice, red fruit notes with cherry and cranberry, but it’s an earthy red Italian wine.

Burgess: Maybe a California chardonnay that’s creamy and a little buttery—a nice rich wine for something that’s fresh and maybe a little tart and some strong flavors. The lemon tahini could cut through the oakiness of the chardonnay.

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Burgess: I went with Lambrusco, a nice, slightly dry, slightly sparkling fruity red with a chill on it that’s not sweet. It pairs nicely with a tomato marinara, and you don’t have to take it too seriously. n

BEHIND THE BAR

Add weather-appropriate vino to your menu to pair with lighter fare and even barbecue.

by Ari Bendersky

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Come summer, diners want to eat lighter fare and grilled meats that reflect the season. And just with the change in seasons, it’s time to also change up your wine list.

Big reds like cabernet sauvignon and merlot and heavier whites like Chardonnay are great throughout colder months and, truth be told, appeal to some people yearround. But when the weather warms up, many others like to eat outside, and that usually calls for more refreshing wines.

“I look for wines that display a sense of freshness when summer rolls in,” says Joe Briand, wine director at New Orleans’ Bacchanal Wine. “Lighter, more translucent reds that are higher in acid and lower in tannin. With whites, I lean toward more delicate, low alcohol [wines] or whites with a touch of spritz.”

You can delve deeply into a variety of lighter wines. For whites, some to look for include albariño, vinho verde, txakolina, gruner veltliner, Grenache blanc, white Burgundy, Riesling, Muscadet and verdejo. In the red category, definitely add

Beaujolais (gamay), lighter-style garnacha from Spain’s Priorat region, barbera, French pinot noir, negroamaro and even Lambrusco, a lovely, effervescent Italian red that’s great with a little chill on it.

Don’t forget about your bubbles.

Celebrations tend to increase in the summer months and that means more sparkling wines like cava, prosecco, cremant and, of course, Champagne.

“Summer is a social time to enjoy wine and that’s where the fun comes in,” says Dan Callaway, director of product development, visitor experience and bourbon education and a sommelier for Bardstown Bourbon Co. and Bond Kitchen and Bar in Bardstown, Ky. “Sparklings are always going to be a big hit.”

And then there’s rosé, sometimes jokingly referred to as summer water. There’s no

denying the boom these often-lighter, fruity, crisp, dry wines—from southern France, Oregon, northern Spain, Germany and elsewhere—have had in the last few years. People can’t get enough of rosé, whether sitting out on a patio with a bottle or sharing a variety of food.

Summer also means more grilled fresh vegetables, seafood and, of course, barbecued meats—and these lighter-style wines play a big role in enhancing the food.

“My thing with barbecue is that I don’t want to do anything overly complex,” says Shanning Newell, sommelier at Bourbon Steak in Nashville. “Barbecue is so flavorful, and I try to stay with wine that complements it, but isn’t the star of the show. Wine with barbecue is the supporting actor.” n

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BEHIND THE BAR

Shake up YOUR GRILL GAME

Three summertime sides come off the plate and into the shaker Briana Rupel

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W

e love the smoky char that the grill gives our favorite cuts of meat and vegetables, but a good bed of coals and a lick of flame can also elevate your seasonal cocktail menu. Let the deepened flavors of these three grilled favorites enrich the beverages you’ll serve this summer.

Watermelon No cookout is complete without a deep red, juicy watermelon.

Luckily, our favorite summertime treat is sturdy enough to hold its own on a grill grate. Cut into thick slices and brush both sides with a marinade of honey, fresh lime juice and a sprinkle of salt. Prep your grate with a rubdown of coconut oil for an extra hint of flavor.

Once you spot grill marks and the melon has deepened in color, puree the fruit for a succulent addition to mint mojitos. Or, try shaking your puree with vodka, simple syrup, lime juice and basil.

Garnish with a drizzle of olive oil and a basil-wrapped cube of feta for a sweet/savory explosion.

Carrots This favorite root vegetable is a standby on the grill, and with the trend of savory cocktails on the rise, they’re the perfect candidate for a drink that will stand out. Toss carrots in 100 percent pure maple syrup. Depending on the size, they can go right on the grate, or use a grill pan with holes to still capture the flavor. Grill until softened enough to poke a fork through. Run through a juicer for an earthy, sweet liquid that pairs with apple, orange and ginger for a bright and healthy non-alcoholic offering. With its flavors of caraway and cardamom, aquavit is the perfect complementary spirit to kick things up.

Corn on the cob There’s always room for sweet corn slathered in butter and salt, but corn is also an astonishing flavor boost to craft cocktails. Baste a naked cob with olive oil and set directly on the grate. Being careful not to blacken, watch for the kernels to brown and be ready to burst. After shaving the cobs clean, puree the corn and press through cheesecloth to reserve the milk. Its mild creaminess and sweetness make a terrific base for a simple syrup you can then play with in a caipirinha with a sprinkle of fresh cilantro and a rim of seasoning salt. Or use it in a mezcal old fashioned for a smoky/ sweet combo that screams summer grillin’. n

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BEHIND THE BAR

Our Resident Bartender Deconstructs the Mai Tai Briana Rupel

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Finally, I had secured my place behind the bar, a casual joint on Lake Michigan that served Bacardi Diets in pints and a damn good Friday Fish Fry. I was freshly 20, a long way from finding my confidence as a bartender, so when this woman ordered a Mai Tai, I went full college house party: all the rail rums, O.J., pineapple, a swirl of neon grenadine, even extra Malibu—because “tropical,” right? I speared three cherries instead of one, masking the fact that I didn’t know what the hell I was doing. She loved it like a kid sucking down a Capri Sun, but unbeknownst to both of us, I had gotten it horribly, horribly wrong.

We Americans love tiki drinks for lots of reasons, namely their promise of transporting us far away from our 50-hour work weeks to a place we can dig our toes in the sand and smell salt in our hair; a place synonymous with kitschy vessels overflowing with rich rum. Though it’s true that the precise blending of various rum styles is the foundation of a Mai Tai, perhaps the most essential ingredient that’s often overlooked is orgeat.

Spirits critic Jason Wilson calls orgeat (pronounced or-ZHA[T]) essential in his book, Boozehound: On the Trail of the Rare, the Obscure, and the Overrated in Spirits. He writes: “… the reason the Mai Tai evolved into such a laughably bad cocktail is mostly due to the disappearance of orgeat syrup by the late twentieth century.”

French for “barley water,” orgeat’s original bland barley base was swiftly replaced with almonds, creating a much more flavorful addition to the arsenals of bartenders in the pre-Prohibition era. Once tiki culture began to sweep Americans off their feet in the 1930s and 1940s, orgeat became ubiquitous, especially at Trader Vic’s in Oakland, Calif., where Victor Bergeron created the world’s first Mai Tai, a straightforward blend of rum, orange liqueur, lime juice and orgeat.

“Orgeat makes or breaks a good Mai Tai,” says Kevin Beary, cocktail expert and beverage director of Chicago’s Three Dots and A Dash. “It’s not just a flavor, it’s that beautiful, thick mouthfeel from the fresh almond milk.”

To preserve the integrity of the almond flavor, Beary skips the traditional addition of orange blossom or rosewater, resulting in a clean-tasting orgeat that no doubt propelled the speakeasy to be named one of “The World’s 50 Best Bars” by Drinks International.

That’s not to say buying bottled orgeat will ruin your Mai Tais. If it’s not practical to go homemade, just be sure to choose a supplier that skips the artificial garbage. Thankfully these days there are many quality orgeat options on the market.

“Making orgeat can be tricky,” admits Beary. “If you don’t have the time or patience to make your own orgeat, I suggest using Liquid Alchemist’s Orgeat, a small batch syrup made in Los Angeles.”

Whether you’re crafting a traditional Mai Tai or a Hawaiian version with pineapple, prioritize orgeat and you’ll serve up a cocktail worth remembering. 

“ Though it’s true that the precise blending of various rum styles is the foundation of a Mai Tai, perhaps the most essential ingredient that’s often overlooked is orgeat.”

- Brianna Rupel

Restaurant Inc. Resident Bartender

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FRESH TWIST IS ALL IT TAKES For a memorable take on a classic summer recipe, Sterling Silver® Chef Pete Geoghegan suggests replacing an existing ingredient with something seasonal and unexpected.

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GAUCHO RIB CAP STEAK WITH BRAZILIAN GARLIC SAUCE

BEHIND THE BAR

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Smoked Cocktails to Keep Customers Cool Use bright aromatics to upgrade summer sippers

By Briana Rupel

The sight of smoke swirling in the glass.

The aroma warming the taste buds before the first sip. A smoked cocktail will elevate any guest's experience simply with its multi-sensory nature. But for sunny afternoons spent sipping on the patio, a hickorysmoked rye Manhattan can be a bit heavy.

Luckily, brighter aromatics are all you need to keep your summer cocktail menu stoked.

JUST IN THYME GIN MARTINI

PALO SANTO–INFUSED NEGRONI

SAGE–SMOKED PINEAPPLE PALOMA

The sweet herbaceousness of fresh (not dried) thyme will take this martini for a stroll through the garden. Thyme's notable lemon essence brings out subtle citrus in this gin, while a rosa aperitivo is softer than a bracingly dry vermouth. Trust us, no one will miss the olive.

Palo Santo wood may best be known for its cleansing properties, but fortunately for us, its major component is limonene, the same found in citrus fruit peels. This makes it a perfect wood to enhance your summer Negroni with delicate aromatics.

The earthiness of sage mellows out pineapple's intense tropical sweetness for a pairing as perfect as old friends.

Infusing ice cubes themselves creates a multi-dimensional drink: As the ice melts, smokier sage aroma reveals itself. By the end of the glass, your patrons will feel like they're catching the sunset at a beach campfire.

Servings: 1 The cocktail: 2 ½ oz Hayman's Old Tom Gin ½ oz

Cocchi Rosa vermouth

Servings: 1 The cocktail: 1 ¼ oz Vikre Boreal juniper gin 1 oz Cocchi di Torino sweet vermouth

1 dash grapefruit bitters

¾ oz

Place a martini glass atop a few smoldering thyme sprigs, letting air in to keep them rolling. Stir the cocktail and strain into a smoky glass. Garnish with an expressed lemon twist.

Let the Palo Santo smoke curl up into a rocks glass. Stir and strain cocktail into smoked glass. Garnish with large cube and orange peel.

Campari

The ice cubes: Fill a grill-safe pan with ice and place on grate. Underneath, place a lit bundle of dried sage. Cover grill and let smoke until cubes melt. Pour smoky water into a mold for average-sized cubes and freeze.

The cocktail: ¼ oz

lime juice

¾ oz

pineapple juice

¼ oz

simple syrup

1 ½ oz reposado tequila ½ oz

pineapple liqueur

1 dash orange bitters Shake and strain into highball glass filled with smoked ice. Top with 1 ½ oz seltzer. Garnish with fresh sage leaves. n

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BEHIND THE BAR

Barbecue and beer. For millions of American diners, it’s a match made in heaven. But while it seems easy enough to order a beer to wash down your baby back ribs, those seeking just the right pairing can get confused by the dizzying selection available these days. To cut through the clutter, we’ve asked a pair of barbecue experts to share the beer-andbarbecue combinations that unlock the best of both.

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tcefrePPerfect SGNIRIAPPAIRINGS Choosing the best beers for barbecue

by Victor Ozols

Since not all barbecue is the same, the first step in choosing a beer is to consider what’s on the plate, according to Erin Ward, corporate beverage director of Virgil’s Real Barbecue, which has locations in New York, Las Vegas and the Bahamas.

“Our barbecue has all that great dry rub spice, and the barbecue sauce is on the side,” she says. “I think about how the different beer flavors interact with the flavors of not only the rub and sauce, but also the meat, whether it’s brisket, pork ribs or chicken.”

As a starting point, Ward recommends a light, crisp lager such as Braven Brewing Company’s Bushwick Pilsner, a popular choice at Virgil’s Times Square location.

Those who want to get adventurous can opt for darker beers like Left Hand Brewing Company’s Milk Stout.

“I love that combination,” Ward continues. “Brown ales and stouts have a sweeter, rounder component that goes hand in hand with the sweetness of the sauce and the caramelization of the smoked barbecue.”

While the IPA category is increasingly popular, it’s also more complicated than ever, with brewers producing everything from entry-level crowd pleasers to big, bold imperial versions.

“IPA can be a very intense flavor that can cause a fight in the mouth if it’s overly bitter,” Ward says. “I like to find something that has a bit of malting, which helps soften the herbaceous quality of heavy hopping.”

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tcefreP SGNIRIAP

Shane McBride, co-owner of Brooklyn’s Pig Beach, echoes that sentiment.

“Everybody wants these super-alcoholic IPAs, but I try to stay away from the heavy-duty, juicy ones,” McBride says. “I try to keep everything under six percent ABV just to keep people lucid.”

Pig Beach exclusively features draft beers produced in New York State, including a custom collaboration with Interboro that’s sure to match the barbecue on offer.

“They make a beer for us called Back to the Grill that’s only available here,” he says. “We went through the brewing process together.”

As the weather gets warmer, people’s tastes in beer change as well.

“Sours are a fun category for the summer,” Ward adds. “Fruit-based beer and barbecue work really well together because it has the sweetness and sourness that cuts through the fat.” n

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behind

the pit THE ART OF THE PITMASTER

The craftsmanship.

The expertise.The passion.

Smithfield takes you into the exclusive world of the most talented professionals in BBQ. They’ve got their own way of talking. And each one has his very own way of serving up flat-out irresistible BBQ. They’re today’s top pitmasters, and Smithfield Culinary cordially invites you into their world. You’ll discover insights, techniques and maybe even a secret or two about creating the meals that BBQ lovers love. Backed by our extensive portfolio of products, our pitmasters will inspire you to create amazing BBQ that builds more business for your operation.

For pitmaster ideas and recipes, visit BBQMeansSmithfield.com.

C R E AT I N G M E N U I N S P I R AT I O N

©2019 Smithfield

BREAKING BREAD

THE

FACTOR KC’s saucy pitmasters have been stoking the fires for almost 40 years Mindy S. Kolof

W

e continue our spotlight on extraordinary women reshaping our industry, with Kansas City’s Deborah Jones and sister Mary Jones Mosley, two of the country’s most-notable female pitmasters.

Fresh off a transformative makeover on Netflix’s “Queer Eye” series, they share highlights of their long, storied career.

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Barbecue began when the sisters were so small their father set them up on milk crates to look at his bustling operation. There, they learned his secrets for barbecuing meats and sausages to perfection.

“I don’t use thermometers or rubs, just concentration and focus,” says Deborah.

For almost four decades, the sisters have prepped and smoked exactly as their father taught them. What has changed is their lives since the “Queer Eye” makeover.

The “Fab Five’s” promise to take them to the next level in season three of their celebrated show was

profoundly realized. The team put Jones Bar-B-Q on the map in refurbished digs, decked out the sisters in new outfits, hairstyles and even new teeth for Mary, and set them up with a company to bottle their signature barbecue sauce.

“Business was good before, but since the show, it’s been overwhelming,” marvels Deborah.

This is, by no means, an exaggeration. Within a week after the March Netflix debut, 11,000 bottles of their sauce—with never-to-be-revealed secret ingredients— were sold, with orders still flowing in. Customers slather it on everything from eggs to chicken nuggets, and “it makes the best Bloody Mary base in the world,” adds Mary.

Customers are flocking in larger numbers than ever to their KC locale, a phenomenon Mary refers to as her “family growing.”

“All customers are part of our family. Daddy always said ‘take care of your customers because without them, there is no you.’ Everyone feels the love when they’re here,” says Mary.

Photo by: Kansas City Star

They’re happy when they leave, too, having feasted on the Jones’ classic rib tips, sausage links and burnt ends with a side of baked beans. In development now are a limited edition coconut barbecue sauce and a Fab Five menu special, in gratitude.

“They changed my life tremendously … giving me back my smile and my spark for life,” reveals Mary.

Photo by: Christopher Smith – Netflix

Deborah says: “They convinced me to take ‘Debby time,’ and I would never have considered that before.”

Indeed, the sisters routinely put in long, hard-working days, starting at 4 a.m. Although now she considers barbecue an art, it was originally taught to them as another skill for self-sufficiency, “like cutting grass.”

The independent spirit inspired by their dad still resonates.

“We have never been intimidated by men, and we know other women pitmasters who are doing quite well,” says Mary. “Move over men, we’re not going anywhere!” n

SUMMER 2019 | 97

BREAKING BREAD

Y’all

Come Back Arthur Bryant’s serves great barbecue with a heaping side of hospitality Erica Bethe Levin 98 | RESTAURANT INC

Arthur Bryant was known as the “King of Ribs.” His namesake, Kansas City, Mo., restaurant, which opened in 1958, still lives up to his moniker.

“The one word I hear over and over is ‘authentic,’” says Jerry Rauschelbach, managing partner of the restaurant. “Kansas City has more barbecue restaurants, per capita, than any other city in the country, but when people come to town, they are told to go to Arthur Bryant’s.”

Neither the food nor the restaurant itself has changed much since 1958. The restaurant still piles high three quarters of a pound of meat per sandwich, charges just over $10, uses Bryant’s original pit, and serves up some of the best hospitality in the Midwest.

This authenticity has drawn many famous, and presidential, patrons to town over the years: Harry Truman, Jimmy Carter, Barack Obama, Ella Fitzgerald, Joe DiMaggio, Frank Sinatra and Anthony Bourdain, to name a few. Rauschelbach proudly states that they wait in line just like everyone else.

Rauschelbach is proud of the family business. His dad has owned Arthur Bryant’s since 1983. Having worked at the restaurant since college, he loves sharing its storied history with guests. In his own words, he serves as “director of operations, general manager, dishwasher and publicist.”

“I would never call us ‘the best,’ what keeps us in the game is that we try to be as consistent as possible and never try to be something we’re not.”

– Jerry Rauschelbach, Managing Partner

The Rauschelbachs have made minimal changes to Arthur Bryant’s over the years. “The same tables, walls and ceiling are here. Guests understand they are getting an experience that transcends time. Customers would kill me if I ever upgraded the interior,” jokes Rauschelbach.

“The building is 100 years old, so the pit is very small. No rotisserie can be used; one has to constantly rotate meat by hand and pitch fork,” explains Rauschelbach. “Raw product goes on at 6 p.m. and isn’t ready until 10 a.m. [the next day]. Mr. Bryant used to live at the restaurant, and his old bedroom is now used for private parties.”

Famed journalist Calvin Trillin once wrote in Playboy magazine, “…the single best restaurant in the world is Arthur Bryant’s.” And Rauschelbach says “I would never call us ‘the best,’ what keeps us in the game is that we try to be as consistent as possible and never try to be something we’re not. Vegans, can’t help you. Small portions, can’t help you. Most mornings I’m here by 5 a.m. to get product on the pit or smoker. Never rush a good thing.” n

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Welcome to our Beer Garden!

A Brie & Pear Burger on a Sesame Seed Brioche Bun (RFS#CB320) paired with an IPA

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A Mexican Style Veggie Burger Sesame Seed Brioche Bun (RFS#CB320) paired with a Munich Dunkel Style Lager

Featuring a bun, a burger & a beer for everyone

Summer is here and what better pairing is there during these long summer months than that of burgers and beer? We have the perfect gourmet bun for whatever kind of burger you prefer, and a beer pairing selected specifically to complement each burger’s unique flavor profile.

For a traditional beef burger, try it on the always classic Sesame Seed Brioche Bun (RFS#CB320) and paired with an IPA. A turkey burger topped with cucumber, a gorgeous carrot salad, and a Sriracha mayo is right at home on our Hawaiian Brioche Bun (CB316). Sip on a cold Summer Wheat beer while you enjoy the bright and slightly sweet flavors at play with this exotic bun. Our Gourmet Split Top Bun (RFS# 23440) is the ideal vehicle for a salmon burger with veggie slaw, and paired with a Dry Stout, you simply can’t go wrong. Finally, the house made veggie burger will shine on our Corn Dusted Kaiser Bun (RFS# 26596), while a Munich Dunkel Style Lager will quench your thirst and delight your taste buds.

So what are you waiting for? Summer is long, and the beer garden is waiting.

EATING HEALTHY

Piece of the Middle East Hummus is a versatile menu item that can serve as an app or a meal Ari Bendersky

F

rom its ancient Middle East origins, hummus has become an everyday staple for many Americans. The rise of Middle Eastern restaurants gaining acclaim like Philadelphia’s Zahav, Sitti in Raleigh, N.C., and Portland, Maine’s Baharat, hummus is recognizable on more menus.

A naturally healthy, protein-rich dish, hummus is easy to make.

Comprising chickpeas, tahini (sesame paste), olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, salt and other seasonings like cumin or paprika, hummus can be served as is with some fresh pita bread or various vegetables like carrots, celery, bell peppers or radishes. It may also be added to dishes as a condiment.

Getting a creamy-yet-silky consistency takes some time to perfect, but Zach Engel, a James Beard Award-winning chef who opened modern Israeli restaurant Galit in Chicago, offers two simple tips: Puree it for five minutes to 10 minutes longer than you think it needs, and remove the skins from the chickpeas.

“We alkalize the chickpeas before going into the pot,” Engel says.

“Cooking them after soaking with a little bit of baking soda helps break down the pectin in the cell walls of the skin. The skins rupture and come off easily and then the chickpeas absorb water faster and cook faster.”

Due to its simplicity, hummus is fairly versatile. While some chefs mix in other ingredients like beets or even chocolate while pureeing the chickpeas, Engel is more of a purist. That said, he does add other ingredients atop hummus to add flavor and even adds various proteins to add heft.

“If you do regular chickpea hummus, you can literally put anything on it,” Engel says. “It’s a great vessel to do anything—proteins like scallops, beef cheeks, braised greens and a soft-cooked egg or lamb ragu. You can do anything as long as it doesn’t make the hummus taste weird.”

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While Engel prefers a traditional hummus, Jeffrey S. Merry, corporate executive chef with Reinhart Foodservice’s Boston division, doesn’t shy away from experimentation.

“When someone says hummus, they’re thinking of a dip made from a nut or legume,” Merry says. “That’s where they can push the boundaries.”

So where traditional hummus comprises chickpeas, Merry says you can fold in roasted red peppers, red beets, sun-dried tomatoes, savory herbs and even peanut butter for a dessert-like hummus.

“Hummus is definitely a chickpea dish, but if someone wants to use peanut butter and put it on a menu, I’d write ‘hummus’ in quotation marks,” Merry suggests.

Because otherwise it’d just be a run-of-themill dip. n

Basil Hummus

Push the Boundaries with Red Beet Hummus

Traditional Roasted Garlic & Chickpea Hummus

ROASTED BEET HUMMUS WITH TZATZIKI SAUCE Jeffrey S. Merry | Corporate Executive Chef, Reinhart Boston Division Servings: 2 INGREDIENTS

½ lb

red beets, trimmed, cooked and diced

1 tbsp

chopped garlic

½ cup

cooked chickpeas (drained)

¾ cup

tzatziki sauce

3 tbsp

fresh lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste INSTRUCTIONS

Combine all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until smooth.

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EATING HEALTHY

it’s in the

Can America finally catches on to the canned fish trend that’s part of daily European life.

Ari Bendersky

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V

isit Spanish or Portuguese bars and markets and you’ll

likely find a variety of conservas — seafood preserved in oils, seasonings and sauces and canned for later consumption — that are snacking staples in those and other European countries.

Recently, American restaurateurs have begun importing conservas, sometimes for European clientele, other times to introduce curious American diners to another delicacy. The trend is taking off from Detroit to Boston to Washington D.C. and beyond.

Pop the aluminum top to find a range of seafood plucked from the sea, cooked and immediately preserved to be later enjoyed as a snack often served with fresh baguettes or on a charcuterie board. You can find razor clams, octopus, mussels, anchovies, scallops, oysters, cockles and more.

“From a novice standpoint, you have to get your head wrapped around it texturally,” says Donald Carlin, owner of Dyllan’s Raw Bar in Washington, D.C. “It’s not fishy; they have a complex, dynamic flavor.”

Americans may turn up a nose to canned fish, as they’re used to grocerystore products that may have smelled fishy. Conservas have a higher-quality taste and in a range of pricing.

“The profit margin is respectable on them, but it all depends on your business model,” explains Elias Khalil, owner of Detroit’s Cata Vino Mercado & Wine Bar. “We have an operating philosophy that everything in our establishment should be accessible. We look for profit, but we’re not driven by greed.”

Boston’s Saltie Girl has upwards of 65 tins on its menu and sells them at retail, too. “It’s a unique experience to have the opportunity to taste as many as you want,” says owner Kathy Sidell. “We usually find that people have two to four on the table. It’s a great starter where you can mix and match and play.”

Conservas make for a fun happy hour offering, as they pair with many beverages from crisp, dry wines like Spanish albariño and French Chablis to dry cider, sparkling wines and Belgian whites.

“They go so beautifully with many drinks: a classic martini, Manzanilla sherry on tap, a gin and tonic,” says Dan Smith, general manager of Chicago’s Queen Mary, which sources its conservas from neighbor Wixter Market.

“Anything bright and crisp will cut a bit of the richness of the fish.”

But just enough so your customers can truly enjoy those beautiful flavors. n

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EATING HEALTHY

Ben's Friends A group of restaurant veterans aims to help peers deal with alcohol and drug abuse in the industry.

Ari Bendersky

It’s no secret the restaurant industry breeds an environment that makes it easy to party. You work long, stressful hours and at the end often get a “shift drink” to help burn off steam and then keep the party going into the wee hours before you do it all over again.

That lifestyle works for some, but for others, it becomes a slippery slope into drug and alcohol abuse that can oftentimes turn into addiction and sometimes death.

A 2015 study by the U.S. government’s Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration identified the food service and hospitality industry with the highest rate of substance abuse among other industries and ranked third in heavy alcohol use.

While so many people continue to use, not many are comfortable talking about having a problem.

Enter Ben’s Friends.

After Ben Murray, a prominent chef in Charleston, S.C., committed suicide in 2016 following years of addiction and depression, his friends Mickey Bakst, the general manager of Charleston Grill, and Steve Palmer, managing partner of Indigo Road hospitality group, knew they needed to do something. Both sober for many years, the pair launched Ben’s Friends, a food and beverage industry support group that allows people struggling with substance abuse and addiction a safe place to come when they want help.

“What we find is there’s a stigma around AA [Alcoholics Anonymous] or 12-step programs,” Palmer says. “Restaurant people feel safe walking into a meeting of other restaurant

people. There’s a common language and knowing what they’re going through. Once they come to a meeting, we can help them with the whole recovery.”

Palmer is the first to tell you Ben’s Friends is not the one-stop shop, but a resource. It’s a first step for many people, who can then decide to go through a full program or get other counseling.

The group started in Charleston in the fall of 2016, and today has chapters in Charlotte and Raleigh, N.C., Atlanta, Richmond, Va., Minneapolis, Austin, Texas, and Portland, Ore., that meet weekly, sometimes twice. Other cities can easily open chapters.

“If people need help, we need to be able to help them—and not be ashamed to ask for it,” says Scott Crawford, chef/owner of Crawford and Son as well as Jolie, in Raleigh. He also started Ben’s Friends there. “That otherwise will keep them drinking, using and dying.”

Which is the main reason for Ben’s Friends: To help stop that downward cycle. n

Learn more at: bensfriendshope.com 106 | RESTAURANT INC

EATING HEALTHY

Next Gen Dining

Has Arrived Mindy S. Kolof

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D

ining is both the second-largest expense for senior living providers and a critical component for marketing in a highly

competitive space. At the Senior Housing News’ DISHED spring

conference, leaders who are literally and figuratively building the future of dining shared their unique initiatives.

From innovative, public-facing design to a virtual sea change in menus, every part of the senior living experience is being given a thorough revamp as Boomers start streaming in. Operators, juggling the sometimes conflicting priorities of satisfying the demanding new wave of residents while also meeting regulatory requirements and fulfilling requests from residents’ adult children, have stepped up with ingenious solutions.

“Our menus feature a la carte, ethnic and farmto-fork items.”

– Eric Lindholm, National Director of Food & Dining Services, Five Star Senior Living

Consider the white tablecloth amenities overlaid with today’s hottest experiential themes offered at the aptly named Five Star Senior Living facilities.

“Our menus feature a la carte, ethnic and farm-to-fork items,” says Eric Lindholm, Five Star’s national director of food and dining services. “Happy hours are uber-popular, with wine tastings, craft cocktails, microbrews and a wonderful opportunity to socialize.”

Five Star continues to hone its focus on elevating the dining experience, including a partnership begun in 2014 with California chef Brad Miller. Branded concepts appearing in many of its 270 facilities nationwide include corner cafés, daytime bistros that double as evening cocktail lounges and open kitchen/exhibition cooking models.

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Opening the doors to the outside community has proven hugely successful for Arizona’s LivGenerations, which regularly hosts the public at its infusion wine cellar, elegant tea room and Tuk Urban Kafé, according to Cara Baldwin, vice president of dining services.

“Tuk has set us apart from the competition,” she says. The return on investment for the eclectic bistro is phenomenal: “As high as 80 percent of our sales have been influenced by adult children because of their liking for Tuk.”

Connecting seniors with technology is the mission at Green Courte Partners’ independent living communities, with initiatives that include using Amazon’s Alexa to help residents better understand the menu and a Blue Apron-inspired meal delivery program.

MINDYour Diet Food as healer may have its origins in medicine’s earliest days, but now represents the most natural and effective way to treat, or even prevent, a 21st century litany of ills.

A revelatory 20-year, 10,000-person study begun in 1992 provided strong evidence for the health benefits of vitamin E in nut oils, seeds, green leafy vegetables and whole grains, and omega 3 fatty acids in seafood, while unequivocally labeling saturated and trans fats in baked goods as “bad,” revealed Dr. Martha Clare Morris, director of the Rush Institute for Healthy Aging.

Using these findings, a pivotal study of the MIND diet (Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay) followed, showing a significant decrease in cognitive decline for adherents, the equivalent of being almost eight years younger.

Combining the Mediterranean heart-healthy diet with DASH diet’s low-sodium approach to stopping hypertension, MIND focuses on 10 foods to include (olive oil, berries, fish, beans, whole grains, poultry, nuts and seeds, leafy green vegetables such as spinach or kale, and one glass of wine a day if desired) and five to limit (red meat, cheese, fried foods, sweets and pastries, butter and trans-fats margarines). A randomized trial now in progress will provide even more definitive outcomes in 2021.

“There is still a great deal of study we need to do, and I expect we’ll make further modifications as the science on diet and the brain advances,” says Morris. n

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SUMMER 2019 | 111

Last Bites Award-winning pitmaster Myron Mixon talks BBQ, new book Audarshia Townsend

Myron Mixon is all things barbecue. He’s an entrepreneur. An author. A television personality. A teacher. A restaurateur. A mayor. And, of course, he’s an award-winning pitmaster best known as “the winningest man in barbecue.” Mixon’s reputation precedes him in the barbecue world, and his latest book demonstrates that vast knowledge.

Just released this spring, BBQ&A with Myron Mixon: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Barbecue answers everyday people’s questions about the tasty cuisine. Here, we get a closer look at his barbecue philosophy, his strategy when running for mayor of his hometown and more.

Restaurant Inc.: Why don’t you first tell us about the premise of your

new book?

Myron Mixon: [My team does] a lot of social media stuff, and I do a lot of Facetime where I answer questions about barbecue in general. We did several of these Facetimes where people sent in their questions and I answered them live. In this book are a lot of those questions and a lot of the answers I gave.

No question was considered stupid or too simple. We did this on and off for an entire year and BBQ&A is the result of our efforts.

RI: Is that the bottom line of what you want to say about barbecue? That it’s a simple thing? Don’t make it complicated?

MM: Barbecue is supposed to be a simple food with simple seasonings and simple flavors that everyone loves, and it’s supposed to be attainable for everyone. It’s not for culinary trained chefs only.

RI: How did barbecue fit into your platform when you were running for mayor of your hometown of Vienna, Ga.?

MM: Back in the day, a lot of politicians who ran for office used to have big

barbecues to feed potential voters. I did the same thing. I had a big barbecue right here in the center of town and gave away barbecue sandwiches and asked everyone who came by to vote for me. It worked out.

RI: If you can reveal one secret, how can a chef achieve the perfect barbecue?

MM: Always cook with a meat thermometer. I tell people all the time: White

meat chicken, make sure you cook it to 160 F internally. You want to cook [pork butt] at 200 F internally. And beef brisket: 205 F internal.

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Myron’s Peach BBQ Baked Beans

RI: What are your favorite meats to grill?

MM: I love a great steak. I love a d*mn great hamburger. I can eat hamburgers every day. I love pork tenderloin—especially when I stuff it with sausage and wrap it with bacon. I call that “Triple P,” you’ve got pork sausage, pork tenderloin and pork bacon.

RI: What are some of your favorite side dishes to accompany barbecue?

MM: A new recipe we do [at Myron Mixon’s Pitmaster Barbeque restaurant] is baby back mac and cheese. Take the meat from a rack of baby back [ribs] and fold it into your favorite mac and cheese recipe. Also, my peach BBQ baked beans, which has pimento in them. (See recipe for Mixon’s famed Peach BBQ Baked Beans online at rfsdelivers.com/restaurant-inc/recipes.) n

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