Restaurant Inc. | Summer 2016

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$5.99

ELOTE w/Queso and cilantro R E S TA U R A N T I N C

See this recipe and more in our Food Fight Section! p. 47

|

Beyond the Taco

the business of food |

Celebrating the Diversity of Mexican Cuisine

ISSUE 03: 2016

p. 39

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T r h e e v D o c ish s i D

Ideas to Enhance Your Menu this Summer

and

Beyond!

Propak®, Dome Plastic Lid for 7” Round Container, 500 ct 57352

Villa Frizzoni™ Shaved Caesar Blend Cheese Imported Bag Refrigerated 12994 Heightened flavor impact per bite

RI_Cover_Issue3_2016_v2.indd 2

6/9/16 3:19 PM


Propak®, White Plastic Fork Medium Weight Polypropylene, 1000 ct 85212

ASK YOUR REINHART SALES CONSULTANT FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE DISH. ideas for success

Propak®, Black Plastic Soufflé Cup 4 oz, 20/125 23014

Chef Talk Propak®, 7” Round Aluminum Container, 500 ct 27510

Markon® Salad Urban Blend Baby Red Chard Wild Arugula And Baby Kales Fresh T6284 On-trend, healthy and flavorful

dish the

Get inside our chefs’ brains and find out what inspired their dishes.

y d a e rto use Find out how you can start utilizing our products right away - without too much preparation or time in the kitchen.

rfsdelivers.com Find this recipe and more in our library of recipes and videos online


LETTER FROM REINHART

Dear Readers: Like many of you, cooking and the restaurant industry are in my blood. My grandfather (Pappou Yianni) immigrated to this country from Greece in the '50s and soon after opened his own family-style restaurant, Corinthian Columns, in Evanston, Illinois. My mother worked there as a teenager, waiting tables, chatting with the regulars and learning the business. In the late 1980s, Pappou retired and sold Corinthian Columns, so I never got the chance to see him in his element. But like many who retire from foodservice, his passion for food and entertaining emerges every time we’re over for dinner. I also followed in my mother’s footsteps. As a teenager, my first job was as a hostess for a casual dining chain and it was there that I got my first real taste for the foodservice industry. Learning the waiters' quirks (some did not want tables with children!), cleaning silverware near the end of my shift, shouting "corner" every time I rounded one entering and exiting the kitchen - it was exhilarating, exhausting and I learned the importance of good shoes and maintaining a smile on a crowded Saturday night. Those experiences and the ones I’ve had at Reinhart Foodservice over the last year have confirmed my belief that the foodservice industry is full of extremely hard-working people. My grandfather was one of them and so are the countless Reinhart customers I’ve had the pleasure of meeting and speaking with. They all share the same passion for delicious food, good service and most importantly, taking care of their customers. Managing a restaurant can be a labor of love – as my Pappou would attest – and it’s often a 24/7 job. That’s why our role at Reinhart is so important to our customers. We are only successful when you are. We launched Restaurant Inc in 2013 to provide our customers with a tool that would help them be more successful in the areas of managing food costs, running their operations and marketing their business. We have featured hundreds of customers within these pages, spotlighting their stories and what makes them unique. Suffice it to say, we’ve learned a lot. For one, it’s clear that each customer defines “success” a little differently. Their stories, their backgrounds, their missions are all distinct. But through the course of every interview, the passion that runs through the veins of those in the foodservice industry continues to be unmistakable. It's the beating pulse, the steady heartbeat, the unwavering commitment, the drive to succeed – my Pappou has it too. No matter what changes may come for our industry in the coming years, I'm confident the passion you have, the passion that we at Reinhart also share, will always endure. And no matter how you define success, Reinhart will stay committed to helping you get there. Thank you!

Sophia Kramarz Managing Editor

2 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3 1, 2016

©2016 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered or otherwise) of their respective owners.


Manage Inventory Create orders anywhere at anytime. View purchase history, manufacture information, and more.

TRY OUR FREE INDUSTRY-LEADING BUSINESS MANAGEMENT PROGRAM FOR YOUR iPhone, iPad, and Android™ devices! Harness these powerful tools with our app TRACS Direct To Go! tracsdirect.com | rfsdelivers.com

Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Android is a trademark of Google Inc. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc. The Android robot is reproduced or modified from work created and shared by Google and used according to terms described in the Creative Commons 3.0 Attribution License.


Fresh produce is the cornerstone of any good menu. Markon First Crop, Ready-Set-Serve, and Markon Essentials fruit and vegetable products give you the versatility to create colorful, flavor-packed recipes. Latin flavors come alive when plantains and pork are packed with produce like pickled cucumbers, onions, and fresh cilantro. Be inspired at markon.com.

Join Markon’s online community today and enrich your knowledge and connections. Browse: markon.com Learn: mobile app Connect: social media


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TABLE OF CONTENTS 08 Quick Bites 10 In Our Communities Mexican & Hispanic Restaurants 24 Brazilian Cuisine Her Highness, the Ingredient! 28 Marketing Your Business without Breaking the Bank 31 Steals & Deals 33 4 Reasons Your Should Consider Changing Your Menu EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Eric Cronert MANAGING EDITOR Sophia Kramarz ART DIRECTION & LEAD DESIGNER Jenn Bushman DESIGNERS Drew Frigo, Lauren Jonson PHOTOGRAPHERS Dan Coha FOOD STYLIST Susan Hevey ADVERTISING SALES & INFO Andrea Wilson andreaw@newhallklein.com CONTRIBUTING EDITORS/WRITERS LIz Avera, Ari Bendersky, Min Casey, Mary Daggett, Mindy Kolof, Sophia Kramarz, Audarshia Townsend

34 Social 101 38 Food Fight Celebrating the Diversity of Mexican Cuisine 48 The Mexican Momentum From Siesta to Fiesta 53 Redefining A Cuisine: Mexican Food Goes Back to Basics 58 Border Crossings 63 Ways to Use Avocado to Go Beyond Guacamole 66 Are You Taco-Ready 70 Don't Fear the Heat

Cover Image | Dan Coha Reinhart® Foodservice, L.L.C. welcomes letters and comments. Mail should be directed to: Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C., Attn: Marketing, 6250 N. River Road, Suite 9000, Rosemont, IL 60018 or magazine@rfsdelivers.com

72 Amazing Maize

©2016 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered or otherwise) of their respective owners.


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TOC co n t in u e d 76 Hispanic Fushion Flavors 78 Poké Makes a Move Into Fast Casual 80 Red Hot Chili Peppers Lend Rhythm to Mexican Cuisine 82 Chocolate Food of the Gods

96 Ripe for a Change? Summer Produce

Bever a g e A r t icle s 85 Mexican Style Cocktails Beyond Margaritas

98 Keeping Your Cool 101 Going Digital the Right Way

87 5 Liquors Every Restaurant Needs

102 Dressing for Success How FOH Uniforms Help

88 Mezcal versus Tequila

104 Extra Recipes

90 How to Craft the Perfect Cocktail Menu

106 Calendar of Events

93 Lighten Up It's Summer [Beer] Time!

107 Advertiser Index 108 Fall Sneak Peek 110 Operator Index 112 Commodities Tracking

6 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016

©2016 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered or otherwise) of their respective owners.


9

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San Antonio Farms®

9

SA LSA TH AT STA N DS O U T

has a long tradition

Features bold chunks of tomato, onion and zesty jalapeño

of quality and Texas hometown pride, dating back to our humble roots as a family

Gluten free, with no artificial flavors, no synthetic colors or preservatives

farm in the early 1900s. Our Point of Difference Fresh ingredients, fire-roasted

Thick, rich texture and appealing mild heat level

on-site, are essential to our process. We make the salsas patrons love!

To request a sample or place an order, contact your Reinhart Sales Consultant. Request a sample or place an order: For more information about our authentic salsa:

800-558-4700 800-558-4700 || www.bayvalleyculinary.com www.bayvalleyculinary.com

© 2016©Bay Valley LLC 2015 Bay Foods, Valley Foods, LLC A TreeHouse Foods Company (NYSE: THS)

A TreeHouse Foods Company (NYSE: THS)


T R E N D I N G

N O W

QB Quick Bites for Your Brain

Before we dive into all the goods of this issue, here’s a look at what’s going on in foodie culture as we speak!

Five Different Dishes,

One Unique Ingredient BORAGE Borage is a Mediterranean herb with a taste that is similar to cucumber. It’s best during the summer and can be featured in a simple salad, as a garnish to a cocktail and in many other unique ways. Check out how operators from across the country are using borage buds!

Farina Restaurant San Francisco, CA Restaurant Beck Depoe Bay, OR

ALBACORE TUNA CRUDO Jasmine tea cured, tomato, jalapeño, citrus, onion ash, sour gherkins, borage, caper, garlic chips, herbs, yogurt, finger lime.

PANSOTTI DI RECCO CON PESTO DI NOCI Handmade Genovese pansotti filled with ricotta cheese, spinach and borage, and served with walnut pesto.

$24-$30

$12

For Your

Smartphone

FOODIE - DELICIOUS CAMERA: This food-centric photo app has 24 filters that are specifically designed and named for food types. Plus, its best angle feature notifies you exactly when the camera is positioned completely horizontally so that you get the best overhead shot possible.

DINE BY TASTING TABLE: Download this app for a curated restaurant finder that makes it easy to find the perfect restaurant for any occasion. DINE currently covers NYC, LA, SF, DC, Chicago, Austin, Houston, Miami and now Detroit.

FLICK ON FOOD: It's the first wiki food ever! It starts from the ingredients by exploring their origins, history, variety curiosities and recipes.

8 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016

Interested in recommending a book, app or Twitter account? Email us magazine@rfsdelivers.com with your suggestion.


For Your Instagram Feed

@Food52

@psithurisma

@reinhart_corp Cotton Row Restaurant Huntsville, Alabama

SALAD OF HONEY CRISP APPLE AND BABY SPINACH

Sunny Point Cafe West Asheville, NC

Candied dates, shaved manchego, borage vinaigrette.

GIN & CUCUMBER BORAGE TONIC

$11

Tanqueray Gin, lime juice, cucumber borage soda, fever tree tonic.

$9 Chambers San Francisco, Ca

UNAGI Foie gras torchon, tapioca, strawberry ume boshi, purslane, borage, basil.

$17

For Your Nightstand


Mexican & Hispanic

RESTAURANTS


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rom Pennsylvania to Minnesota, beachfronts to strip malls, authentic to Americanized – Mexican restaurants run the gamut while generally staying true to one common virtue: an emphasis on family. Depending on their location and customer base, Mexican and Hispanic restaurants in America can be known for deep-fried, queso-topped, sour cream-drenched, monster-sized portions of chimichangas and enchiladas – or they can be a beacon of fresh produce, delicate fish tacos wrapped in stone-ground tortillas, citrusy ceviche and innovative salsas served tapas-style. They’re happy hour havens with endless varieties of margaritas and bottomless salty chip baskets, go-to spots for birthday celebrations (often complete with a mariachi jingle), and popular lunch locales for America’s workforce. In the following pages, you’ll get to know some of Reinhart’s most passionate Mexican & Hispanic restaurant owners and get key insights into how they manage their operations. Many traveled across the border and through multiple restaurants and ranks prior to owning a place of their own. Some inherited their restaurant from a parent, aunt or uncle. Some started from scratch. You’ll read about passion – for food, for people, for service – and you’ll be impressed by the variety of communities and cultures to which these restaurants tailor their menus. You’ll hear incessantly of family, which may reference actual blood relatives who often share ownership of these operations, or the restaurant’s employees and customers, who are treated as if they are part of the family despite their heritage. This insistence upon family denotes a very significant emphasis on the importance of valuing employees & treating them well, and giving customers an inclusive, familiar dining experience every time they return. In short, the Mexican and Hispanic restaurants featured in this issue are true beacons in their community, bringing culture, heritage and companionship to towns across Reinhart Nation.

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 11


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MEXICAN VILLAGE RESTAURANT | ST. CLOUD, MN

Festive and fun spot with Mexican comfort classics by Min Casey

By most any telling, there are many things to love about Mexican Village Restaurant in St. Cloud, Minn. Distinguishing traits have made it a hometown favorite since the 1970s. Its menu of crave-worthy Mexican standards has all the must-haves along with unexpected additions that keep things fresh and lively. Staff turnover is low so chances are very good that diners will see a familiar face or two among the reliably friendly and well-trained service team. Drinks are excellent and prices across the whole menu are carefully set so that guests feel good about the value. But perhaps best of all, says owner Gary Warnert, is that the restaurant is tightly woven into the community, ensuring that a welcoming sense of hospitality colors every transaction. “I grew up around here. It’s my home and it is important for me that the restaurant feels authentic, true and timeless,” says Warnert, adding that he believes that Mexican Village succeeds on that level. “I run into people all the time that came in as children with their parents and now they’re moms and dads bringing in theirs. There’s great continuity.” St. Cloud, with a population of about 66,000, serves as an urban hub for the central part of the state and Warnert says that expands the population base to about 200,000 or so. It also is home to St. Cloud State University, the state’s third largest school, bringing with that a sense of vitality and a continual stream of newcomers. The restaurant is in the historic downtown area and that, too, adds vibrancy to the customer base. But even with those inherent locational advantages, Warnert understands the need to stay current and relevant. “The needs of our customers are constantly evolving. They travel and dine out much more. What they compare us against has changed and we have to be aware of that, making sure they continue to be happy here,” Warnert notes. Much-loved menu stalwarts such as burritos, chimichangas, fajitas and enchiladas remain high on the hit parade. Warnert says that the much-loved items are better than ever, thanks to the quality of products now available from suppliers. “The freshness and variety today versus even 10 years ago is much improved. Things that used to be out of reach are easily available. It makes a big difference,” he adds. Staying true to the core Mexican menu is important to Warnert but that still leaves room for innovation. “We add new things to keep interest high,” he says, acknowledging that nothing so far has nudged the top sellers from their perch. “Most guests come in here knowing exactly what they’ll order, their tried-and-true favorite that they had the last time and the time before.” Warnert posts regular Sunday through Thursday promotions on the restaurant’s website—fajita Tuesdays, top-shelf Thursdays among them. Their main function, he says, is to remind frequent guests that they can come in any night and enjoy good value. By far the most popular offer is the birthday club; members get a free meal on their big day. “They often come in with a large group and celebrate. It’s a lot of fun for them and brings excitement to the dining room,” he says. And that’s exactly the point; the welcoming sense of fun is something he wants everyone in the community to experience when they are at Mexican Village. Asked to comment on how he’d like guests to describe Mexican Village, Warnert says, “That we’re a consistent and friendly place that serves a high-quality product at a fair value. And that we treat everyone, especially our employees, fairly and well.”

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VELVET CACTUS | NEW ORLEANS, LA

Let The Good Times Roll at This Quirky Restaurant by Audarshia Townsend

From the outside looking in, the people who work at Velvet Cactus have way too much fun. They travel for inspiration. They get to pitch ideas for the cocktail and food menus. And they work every day at a Mexican-New Orleans fusion restaurant. In New Orleans. Can it possibly get any better? Yes, when your job is to compose beautiful dishes like a seasonal watermelon salad and banditos, or mini burritos, filled with crawfish. The idea for the watermelon salad originated from the family picnics of Executive Chef J.P. Roots, a New Orleans native who’s been a partner with Velvet Cactus for five years. His favorite dish to eat during summer, the watermelon salad is made of fresh watermelon chunks, red onion, banana peppers, cilantro and queso fresco, tossed with balsamic vinaigrette and served chilled. It’s one of many dishes he believes helps the restaurant stand out in a town famous for its culinary offerings. Other standout dishes include chipotle cheese grits topped with smoked jalapeño and BBQ shrimp and a seared ahi tuna appetizer with mango cucumber relish, avocado crema and fried won tons. “Mexican food in New Orleans was a challenge,” admits Roots, who also spearheads another location in Baton Rouge, La. “We put some flair into our food. We took a lot of the Mexican flavors and put a Louisiana twist on everything we do as much as possible.” He loves to describe Velvet Cactus as “a really fun atmosphere” that customers can call paradise for two to three hours, drink margaritas and still bring the kids. “We are very family oriented,” he says. “We have games for kids such as bean bag and ring toss, plus popsicles for kids after they finish dinner. You can have a margarita and bring your kids and there are no other places in town where you can do that.” Roots says the family-oriented aspect was created by design. Following the devastating Hurricane Katrina storm in 2005, many businesses either completely left the area or strived to rebuild in the more affluent areas of the city. Their mission was to go to where people desperately needed a restaurant in their community. “We started in a neighborhood that was hit pretty hard by Hurricane Katrina, so it was flooded out and there were all these young families in the area,” he explains. “The idea was to have a place to which they could easily walk.” Velvet Cactus feels welcoming and thrives on both themes. You’ll find Mexican accents mixed in with traditional New Orleans artwork. And the soundtrack ranges from Latin beats to upbeat Zydeco. “Some customers say to us, ‘This isn’t a normal taqueria,’” says Roots. “That’s what we’re going for! We’ve never claimed to be.” For Roots, it’s not enough to be a novelty for consumers. There’s always the thought in the back of his head for change and to get better. “We’re not going to settle and just say, OK, this is what we are. What we are is constantly improving and coming up with ideas to make our restaurants the fun place to be.”

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 13


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THE PATRON | MECHANICSVILLE, VA

The Mechanics(ville) of Mexican Food by Ari Bendersky

Arturo Murillo isn't a chef, but that doesn't keep him from tinkering around in the kitchen. The co-owner of The Patron in Mechanicsville, Va., outside of Richmond, runs the front of house operations, but has created some of the Mexican restaurant's best dishes. "I love cooking and coming up with new dishes," Murillo said. "I try to come up with something new every week. If I could, I'd go back to school and do culinary arts." While he isn't enrolling anytime soon, he does get to expand his culinary creativity by concocting recipes that get posted to the restaurant's specials board and if they're a hit, they'll likely get added to the menu. He recently came up with Enchiladas Tio Tufo, which are filled with crab meat, topped with four grilled shrimp and the restaurant's secret queso sauce, and served with poblano rice and sour cream. The Patron, which is also owned by Eduardo Macias, does have items you'll find in other Mexican restaurants — burritos, tacos, fajitas — but the pair takes things to the next level with interesting preparations and numerous options in each category to stay a step ahead of other, more traditional Mexican spots nearby. There's truly something for everyone whether you want Quesadillas Monterey with cheese, steak, guacamole and their homemade picante sauce; Pollo Tamarindo, chicken marinated in tamarind sauce served with Spanish rice; carne asada tacos with cilantro, onion and tomatillo sauce served with three soft flour tortillas; or the Tierra y Mar, grilled shrimp, scallops, chicken, green peppers, grilled onion, tomatoes, squash, zucchini and mushroom over a bed of rice. That last dish is one of Murillo's favorites and as he says, "You feel like you're in Cancún!" Vacation aside, dining at the homey-feeling, 280-seat restaurant decorated with wagon wheels, cowboy décor and a new bar underlit with lights that change color to create a sense of fiesta, does offer an authentic taste of Mexico. Their food represents many regions throughout the country, but mostly Guadalajara and Cancún. You'll find a lot of dried guajillo chile and also seafood like the spicy Camarones a la Diabla (grilled shrimp and onion in a hot red sauce) and Pescado Bofo (grilled tilapia filet and scallops with cheese and Vallarta sauce). But their specialties? Fajitas. The Patron has seven varieties, including the popular Fajitas Titanic, a seafood platter with scallops, shrimp and tilapia. And their Burrito Fajita, essentially beef or chicken fajitas rolled up into a burrito with onions, peppers and tomatoes topped with melted cheese, is a big seller. They also do tableside guacamole, where one of their staff rolls a cart up to your table and does scratch-made guacamole to diners' specifications. It's a little more expensive, but it's a nice touch being able to basically make your own guacamole. The Patron is known for its homemade white and red sangria that comprises fresh oranges, limes, lemons, cherries and blueberries. "I make that one and I make sure it tastes right," Murillo said. The bar also churns out 20 different kinds of margaritas, often using higher-quality tequila like Patron Silver or Tres Agaves. And to cater to health-conscious drinkers, they offer an all-natural skinny margarita made with freshsqueezed orange and lime juice and agave nectar. Murillo and Macias know they may not get everything right and pay attention to customer comments on social media platforms to fix any issues that might arise. They quickly respond to comments and work to ensure people's satisfaction. "It's important to let people know their feedback is being heard and we're seeing their experience," Murillo said. "It shows we care about what they think." In general, The Patron works to ensure people have a good experience and keep coming back. "I've been in this business a long time and customers like being treated like family," Murillo said. "You greet them when they come in. You create a relationship. I hear from people they love coming in and that as soon as they walk in the door they feel wanted."

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SOLEA MEXICAN GRILL | MENASHA, WI

A Long Winding Journey to Success by Mindy Kolof

Just a decade ago, authentic recipes from the heart of Mexico weren’t considered the cherished culinary treasures they are today. Eduardo Sanchez remembers those days clearly. His first Mexican restaurant in Menasha, Wisconsin, opened in 2006 with 13 tables and two employees. “We offered a small menu of very familiar dishes – lots of cheese burritos and chimichanga,” he says. Fast forward to 2016, and Sanchez has three popular restaurants in Wisconsin. He employs 52 individuals, manages a bustling catering business, and satisfies a new generation of adventurous diners. “Now people are willing to try all sorts of new tastes and we make it exactly like we do in Mexico,” he relates. Customers relish the new and authentic, so Sanchez is able to serve ethnic dishes from the Yucatán such as red snapper with chimichurri sauce or salmon and shrimp al ajillo with pineapple pico de gallo, and experiment with different spices, slow roasted pork and mole sauce. Menus that change quarterly give him the opportunity to highlight gourmet selections; a look at his latest edition shows just how much times have changed: Chile Relleno de Queso, a roasted poblano pepper stuffed with Chihuahua cheese and sweet corn and smothered in guajillo sauce; a burrito filled with slow cooked pork, Yucatánstyle, finished in guajillo sauce, queso fresco and pickled red onions; and Baja fish tacos, made from haddock dipped in Negra Modelo (dark ale) and deep fried, served with fresh green salsa. It's not surprising that his restaurants are routinely packed, and year-to-year revenues up — no small feat in a place with restaurants opening “in every corner every six months,” says Sanchez. “You can be in business now, but not next month,” he says. “We are trying to create a history by doing everything right on a daily basis, that’s the key to surviving.” It starts with treating his diners like guests, and his employees like family. “We try to know every one of our employees, and 95 percent of our staff are still with us,” Sanchez reports proudly. Involved in the hiring of every new employee, he looks for people who delight in providing service, reflecting his zeal for the hospitality industry. “My job is to bring people to the restaurant, and their job is to keep people coming back,” he says. His own journey reflects that lifelong passion. “The way I grew up, all our important events were around food. I couldn’t think of anything else I’d rather do.” So it made perfect sense that when he moved from Veracruz to Wisconsin in 1995, his first job was as a dishwasher at a small restaurant called Tumbleweed in Appleton. When Sanchez went back years later, after the successful launch of his restaurants in Menasha (2006) and Neenah (2008), he noticed the place was vacant. In 2010, he opened his third, and largest restaurant, Solea Mexican Grill, with 500 square feet of space for 280 diners…and traveled full circle from his first dishwasher job in the U.S. to thriving restaurant operator. Still, Sanchez takes none of it for granted. Rather than rely just on word of mouth, he invests money in newspaper and magazine ads, email marketing campaigns and radio spots. Social media is also skillfully used, with active promotion on Facebook of events like the always-sold-out gourmet Tequila dinners. And he seizes every opportunity he can to contribute to the community that welcomed him so warmly two decades ago. “I always call people if they’re struggling or in need of a fundraiser. They can come here and I’ll donate all that night’s profits to the cause. I believe we’re in business because this is a great community, so whenever I can give something back, I do.”

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 15


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AÑEJOS | SARTELL, MN

Authentic Margaritas & Classic Cuisine by Liz Avera

When you’re a Mexican-born restaurant operator trying to make it in the Mexican restaurant industry in the States, keep one thing in mind: you won’t necessarily be making a whole lot of Mexican food. “It’s not really, really authentic,” says Ramon Navarro, owner of Añejos restaurant in Sartell, Minn., of his restaurant’s fare. “But it’s what the people know and want. Where I’m from,” he innocently quips, “we don’t eat Chimichangas.” They may not enjoy deep-fried burritos in Michoacán, Mexico – Ramon’s home state – but they do drink añejo. Lacking a direct English translation, “añejo” is an adjective most often associated with extra-aged, high-quality tequila. And tequila is what Ramon’s team does best. “We are one of two places in Minnesota to stock the Jose Cuervo Limited Edition, extra añejo tequila,” boasts Ramon, “which runs at a list price of $2,250 per bottle.” Unlike most Mexican restaurants in the U.S., Añejos makes its margaritas with freshly squeezed lime and orange juices, along with a variety of high quality – rather, añejo – tequilas. “People love our margaritas,” says Ramon. “We have a lot of pride in them.” Ramon immigrated to the United States from Michoacán, Mexico and began his restaurant career soon after arriving. From washing dishes to bussing tables to serving patrons and eventually managing multiple establishments owned by friends, Ramon worked his way up the ladder throughout the Midwest and eventually landed in Minnesota. “When we opened [Añejos],” he says, “I called my friends from all the different restaurants I’d worked in, and I hired the best employees I knew.” Ramon then proceeded to rent space in a building that had seen three restaurants fail. “A lot of people didn’t believe in me,” he remembers. “They said, ‘he’s not smart, he’s not gonna make it.” Many of the current Añejos employees were part of the group that opened the restaurant and proved the non-believers wrong. Ramon calls them family. Located smack dab in the middle of Minnesota, in a town of roughly 17,000 called Sartell, Añejos has thrived even in a building that has seen many restaurants fail. But Ramon can’t tell you much more than that about his home, despite having lived there for over three years now. “I just work every day,” he says. “I get in at 9 AM and we finish around 10 or 11 at night.” Luckily, Ramon’s wife and two adult daughters work at the restaurant, too, and his younger teenage children help out around the restaurant when they aren’t too busy with school. “I’m teaching [my kids] how money is made, teaching them the value of work,” Ramon says. “And, truthfully,” he adds, “no one sees it as my restaurant. It’s ours.”

16 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016


REY AZTECA | BUTLER, PA

A Mexican Empire in the Middle of Pennsylvania by Ari Bendersky

Whether you're looking for Tex-Mex or more upscale Mexican cuisine, Reynaldo Palacios has you covered. That's because between his three Tex-Mex locations of Rey Azteca and the newly opened La Casa, with a more refined regional menu, Palacios has brought the cuisine of his country to the Pittsburgh area. The restaurateur is building a small empire (he also owns Acapulco about an hour away in Irwin) and it looks like it's something the people want. Case in point: the readers of the Butler Eagle newspaper have named Palacios' Rey Azteca the best Mexican restaurant in the area for the last six years. The colorful and warm 18-table BYOB restaurant caters to the tastes of the Butler population and makes sure to not have dishes be too spicy — although people can add heat if they like it. The menu features all the food you'd expect from Tex-Mex like tacos, enchiladas and chimichangas, but it also has chile rellenos, camarones con hongos (large prawns sauteed with garlic and mushrooms) and pulpo a la diabla (a spicy octopus dish). And it's their quality and attention to detail that sets Rey Azteca apart. "It's all about the flavor," said Rey Azteca's corporate chef Yanitzin Sanchez. "Everything is homemade fresh daily and we are very specific and selective about who we're getting our food from." Palacios hired Sanchez, who owned Chicago's Sabor Saveur before it closed and she moved to Pennsylvania, to oversee culinary operations for all five restaurants. She helps set the menus and is the chef at Palacios' newest restaurant, La Casa. With La Casa, Palacios is looking to help introduce more traditional, regional Mexican cuisine to Butler. Sanchez, who joined the team in June of 2015, combines her training in French techniques with the flavors found throughout Mexico to bring a more modern approach to the food at La Casa and is slowly introducing her food to Butler's food-curious residents. "We want the people in Butler to experience the food and see that Mexico isn't only Tex-Mex flavors," Sanchez said. "Contemporary Mexican cuisine is a new direction. It's still traditional, but the presentation and the way we cook is the next level to make it gourmet." While La Casa has dishes like shredded chicken enchiladas suizas; camarones al ajillo with garlic and chipotle sauce; and Mahi Mahi al pastor with guajillo pepper, tequila and pineapple relish, one thing it doesn't have is Rey Azteca's fan favorite: flautas. "The flautas are the number one item that people go back to often," Sanchez said. "They tell us they're lovely and easy to eat. The beauty of the dish is that the flauta is made with flour tortillas. It's like a deep-fried mini-burrito." Sanchez also loves enchiladas verde served with slices of steak, the carne asada tacos, and the build-your-own fajitas with chorizo, steak, chicken and shrimp. If customers get to Rey Azteca and truly can't decide from the extensive menu, Sanchez recommends getting their "special dinner," that includes a chalupa, burrito, and enchilada served with rice and beans. "It's good for different palates and flavors and we want to give our guests that experience," she said. Rey Azteca offers more than a dozen lunch combination specials, generally served with rice and beans for around $7, but also various dishes like Tex-Mex favorites at lunch. Even though it's lunchtime, Rey Azteca ensures the quality isn't lost. "At lunch the food needs to be super fast, but we give you the whole experience in one dish," Sanchez said." And that experience translates to the service, because the customers always come first, Sanchez said. "For us, we make sure to provide food, flavor and customer service," she added. "We have great servers who received upscale training. And we're a friendly company." No wonder the empire keeps growing. SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 17


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LA FUENTE | MILWAUKEE, WI

Celebrates 25 Years in Milwaukee by Mary Daggett

Jose Zarate premiered his La Fuente Restaurant in Milwaukee nearly 25 years ago, and it was the realization of a young man’s dream. General Manager Mariela Zarate is the daughter of the founder, and describes his journey into the foodservice industry. “My father is one of those wonderful American success stories. He came to the United States from Mexico City at age 18, with just $100 in his pocket. He had a number of jobs, including driving a truck and working in the tanneries, where he attained a supervisory position. He eventually acquired a building in Milwaukee that housed a Mexican restaurant. When the space became vacant, he decided to open his own restaurant, with help from my mother and my aunts and uncles. We have a large family, and everybody chipped in. We are all so proud of La Fuente. My father has said many times that the secrets to our success are good food, good service, and consistency. Consistency is of critical importance to us.” At first, Jose Zarate based his menu upon genuine Mexican recipes passed down from his mother. Over time, more and more Tex-Mex favorites were added. “My father realized that to be successful in this industry, an operator must ensure that the menu reflects local preferences,” said Mariela Zarate. “What was popular in Milwaukee was not the same as what was popular in Mexico City.” She adds that her father did not have the budget to advertise when he opened La Fuente. “Luckily, customers quickly did our advertising for us through word-of-mouth.” Eventually, two more locations were added in Wauwatosa and Waukesha. All three can seat at least 150 patrons, and all boast colorful courtyard patios for al fresco dining. “La Fuente has a special ambience, very casual and comfortable, with a loud and lively party atmosphere,” Mariela said. “Our music is a mix of mariachi, contemporary Mexican and salsa. We are very much a fun family destination.” La Fuente has garnered numerous local “best of” awards, especially for its margaritas and Shrimp Soup. In fact, the Shrimp Soup is legendary in the neighborhood and the runaway bestseller. It’s absolutely loaded with shrimp, cooked with cilantro, onions, tomatoes, avocadoes and secret sweet sauce. The menu is a veritable “Who’s Who?” of Tex-Mex favorites: Debra’s Famous Fajita Tacos combine either skirt steak or shrimp with bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, seasonings, sour cream and guacamole all tucked into corn or flour tortillas. The Fajitas Tres Amores marries three varieties (skirt steak, shrimp and chicken) brought to the table together on a sizzling skillet, with the aroma of green peppers and onions wafting in the air. For customers who can’t decide if they’d prefer a burrito, tostada, chimichanga or enchilada, combination plates allow multiple entrees at one sitting. The house specialties section of the menu pays homage to authentic classic Mexican dishes, including the Chicken Mole Oaxaca, which showcases the traditional mole sauces of Mexico. The rich mole at La Fuente is made from roasted almonds, guajillo peppers and dark chocolate. For Mexican pizza lovers, La Fuente starts with a large fried tortilla as its crust. Layers of beans, onions, bell peppers and cheese are added, and diners can opt for ground beef, chunky beef, chicken, pork, steak, shrimp or chorizo sausage. The pizza arrives tableside with sour cream, guacamole and jalapeños. They say that beer helped make Milwaukee famous, but word has it that margaritas helped put La Fuente on the map. The margarita recipes are closely guarded secrets, and there are plenty of varieties to keep aficionados amused. There is a Jumbo House Margarita for those who only allow themselves one drink, and top-shelf tequilas are stocked for those with a preference for premium.

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LA HACIENDA TAQUERIA | NASHVILLE, TN

Authentic Mexican Cuisine Thrives in Music City U.S.A. by Audarshia Townsend

In a town brimming with honky tonk BBQ joints and hot chicken shacks, La Hacienda Taqueria is a standout in Nashville. And it’s not because they’re doing anything innovative or boast the hottest chef in town. For this family-owned business, it’s all about authenticity and consistency. Opened in 1993 by husband-and-wife team Carlos and Lilia Yepez, La Hacienda Taqueria caters mostly to Nashville’s growing Hispanic population. The establishment also happens to be located a few blocks away from Casa Azafran, a sprawling community center focused on the needs of Hispanics. It’s so close to the restaurant, in fact, that only minutes after President Barack Obama held a town-hall-style meeting at the center in 2014, he found himself at the counter ordering five steak tacos. While it’s not every day Lilia Yepez gets a visit from the president, she operates her restaurant as though VIPs show up on the regular. She stresses that authenticity is the draw. “Our food is very traditional Mexican, and our recipes come from different parts of Mexico, so we can offer our customers a variety of Mexican foods,” she says. Those offerings vary from made-to-order fajitas stuffed with shredded beef or sautéed shrimp to a 14-inch burrito filled with chicken, tomatoes, beans, sour cream and avocado. But that’s not all there is to La Hacienda Taqueria, and how it came to be is actually what makes it iconic for Nashville’s Hispanic community. When the Yepez family moved to “Music City U.S.A.,” there wasn’t much of a Mexican cuisine presence. That inspired them to open a tortilla manufacturing plant. However, constant obstructions put the project on delay. While they waited, the husband-and-wife team decided to open a Mexican-focused market to satisfy the huge demand in the area. Its popularity led to an expansion, which included La Hacienda Taqueria. “Once the market started, customers asked for prepared foods, so we started preparing items like burritos, enchiladas and tamales,” explains Yepez. “Since the demand was so high, we decided to use a portion of the market to have a little restaurant area with a bar top and four stools. After that, we decided to make the market into a full-service restaurant.” Yepez is proud of what her restaurant has accomplished throughout the years. “It helped the Mexican community have a place where they feel like home in a country that was very new to them or a city they were not familiar with,” she says. Her belief is that La Hacienda Taqueria has inspired similar operations to flourish in the community. “Every few miles, there is a Mexican eatery. The scene has become more diversified with different types of eateries such as Mexican markets, bakeries, food trucks and ice cream shops.” Even with all the competition and more contemporary concepts opening, Yepez has no plans to change a thing. “I know that serving authentic, traditional Mexican food is the vision we have for our restaurant and we don’t want to be something we are not.”

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JALAPEÑO'S BROOKSIDE | KANSAS CITY, MO

Like Father...Like Son at This Bustling Spot by Mary Daggett

When Justin Hernandez began studying civil engineering, his father, Ben Hernandez, encouraged him down that career path, advising him to never get involved in the family restaurant business. Apparently, it was too late. Justin decided that he couldn’t sit at a computer for eight hours a day. “I had bussed tables at our family’s Mexican restaurant in Kansas City since I was 12 years old. I liked working with the staff and the customers, and I developed a true interest in the industry. I realized that a restaurant career had chosen me, so I studied food and beverage at a community college. I am proud to say that I have been successfully working alongside my dad here at Jalapeños Brookside for ten years. I’ve inherited his passion for the business.” Ben Hernandez opened Jalapeño's Brookside in 1995. Brookside Plaza is a trendy pedestrian shopping destination in Kansas City. The surrounding neighborhood demographics include a mix of both families and singles, lending lots of foot traffic to the area. Upon entering Jalapeños, the ambiance immediately suggests fun and fiesta. The impressive bar sets the stage with a pleasing expanse of wood, colorful glass and mirrors. Guests are greeted with complimentary chips and salsa of the highest quality, an indication of other good things to come. “We have very little freezer space here,” said Justin Hernandez. “We don’t need it because everything is prepared fresh each day. The kitchen starts prepping at 8 a.m. for lunch and dinner, which we serve seven days a week.” The menu reflects what the city’s customers want, which is closer to Tex-Mex than classic Mexican cuisine. “We do strive for authenticity and what is unique and genuine. For example, our pork is slow-cooked for up to four hours. It is so tender and flavorful.” It is used in dishes such as the Old El Paso, which serves up a generous portion of the braised pork in sauce, with soupy beans, rice and tortillas. It is also the basis for Mexican Chile and an option for burritos, enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chimichangas and other specialties. Beef, chicken, steak, shrimp and vegetables are the other varietal choices adding dimension to the bill of fare. Several of the entrées on the dinner menu feature combinations of specialties so that diners can taste different dishes at one sitting. For example, the Jalapeño Platter has a large beef taco, a cheese and onion enchilada, pork tamale and a bean tostada, served with beans and rice for good measure. Listed as “the most popular burrito in Kansas City,” the Jalapeño Dip Burrito is a large flour tortilla stuffed with beans, the choice of beef, chicken, braised or grilled pork, and topped with the restaurant’s signature Jalapeño Dip, which is a blend of jalapeño cheese and special secret ingredients. The Chile Rellenos delivers two plump, battered Anaheim peppers stuffed with cheese and topped with red sauce and beef, pork or chicken. There are three distinct styles of tacos at Jalapeños Brookside: soft shell, hard shell and the Vera Cruz, in which fillings are encased in a flour tortilla and fried till crispy all around. The sizzle of fajitas announce their arrival at tableside, with an array of grilled onions, red and green bell peppers and seasoned strips of steak, chicken breast, grilled pork, shrimp or veggies. In a nod to customer lifestyle preferences, the “Mo Healthy” section of the menu provides more healthful options such as burritos made with low carb/low fat wheat tortillas, Burrito in a Bowl (without tortillas) and the Protein Platter (beef, chicken and pork with a side of queso cheese). Daily food and drink specials and the sheer variety of menu options have likely helped to ensure the continued success of this well-established Mexican standout in the nation’s Heartland. Another success driver: “We have very little staff turnover, either front or back,” Justin Hernandez said. “We feel this is one of the important factors in our success. We value our staff very highly.”

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BAJA BEACH | BILOXI, MS

Festive Tex-Mex Offshoot On Biloxi’s Beachfront by Audarshia Townsend

Who would have imagined that a tortilla machine was one of the biggest attractions on Biloxi’s beachfront? It’s what captures kids’ attention—and keeps them occupied as they wait for their food—at the family-friendly Baja Beach restaurant in the tiny Mississippi resort town. Situated in the center of the dining room, the tortilla machine is enclosed behind a glass case. Skilled workers make them from scratch to the children’s delight, and when they’re done, they’re delivered piping hot and crusty to their plates. The tortilla machine’s appeal also never gets old for Baja Beach general manager Anna Ellerman, who’s been at the restaurant’s helm since it opened September 2015. The Long Beach, Miss. native has lived on the Gulf Coast her entire life, yet she doesn’t take for granted the prime real estate upon which the restaurant sits. “We have an absolutely gorgeous view of the Gulf of Mexico right from our deck,” she gushes. “We also have seating on the inside where you can see it as well.” It’s one of many perks, Ellerman says, setting Baja Beach apart from other Mexican eateries in the area. She counts the tortilla-making machine and their unique twist on classic Tex-Mex cuisine using fresh ingredients as other perks. Some of her favorite dishes on the menu are old-time favorites like chicken chimichanga and enchiladas. Baja’s version of the chicken chimichanga uses shredded chicken thighs, which she says bring out more flavor than chicken breasts, plus peppers, onions, a signature chimi cheese mixture and topped with queso blanco. The enchilada is stacked like lasagna, as they layer corn tortillas with cheese, onions, enchilada verde sauce, and then bake it. Diners choose a topping and protein of shrimp, steak or chicken. There are also a number of bestselling items she’s noted, ranging from grilled Mahi Mahi tacos to a California burrito filled with grilled steak, refried beans and queso blanco. All are served on generously sized platters. “You will not leave hungry with any of our dishes because we do not skimp on portions,” Ellerman assures. Baja’s beachfront appeal attracts as many locals as tourists, Ellerman says, adding that some repeat customers visit up to three times a week. She believes that has a lot to do with the fact that the parent company of the restaurant is family owned and local. It’s also not rare to see the owners interacting with customers in the dining room. “I would rather work for a family-owned company where the owners are walking through the dining room shaking hands with customers and building relationships with the community,” she says. “They’re definitely involved in different business organizations and it’s more of a small-town kind of thing. We make it a must to check on tables and talk to people.”

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EL FOGÓN TACOS & TEQUILA BAR | OAK CREEK, WI

Family and Fresh Flavors of Mexico by Ari Bendersky

If there's one thing Phil Landa understands, it’s if his mother-in-law wants to stay in the kitchen and cook, you let her. "My mother in law helps in the kitchen about six days a week," said Phil Landa, who owns El Fogón Tacos & Tequila Bar just outside of Milwaukee with his wife, Nelly. "We try to give her less days, but she insists on being there every day. She just loves to cook." Landa worked at Chicago's Zacatacos where he really learned the ins and outs of running a restaurant. But it wasn't until moving to the Milwaukee area to open the dark, yet cozy El Fogón, which features art and images of Mexico City, that he learned his way around a kitchen — and for that he can thank his mother-in-law. "We all really learned how to cook here with my mother-in-law," he said. "We decided to open our own place and the goal was to have the same recipes we have at our home." Whether that's their Mexican Nachos with chorizo, Chihuahua cheese, avocado, corn and diced jalapeño all sautéed in a pan; shrimp a la crema (jumbo shrimp sautéed with sour cream and chipotle sauce); pozole (spicy hominy soup with chicken); or tortas (Mexican sandwiches stuffed with beans, meat, lettuce, cheese, guacamole and sour cream), the menu represents food they grew up making and eating in Mexico City, Guererro and Puebla. And where some restaurants put out processed food, it's important for everything at El Fogón to be fresh. "A lot of restaurants take shortcuts with canned and prepared foods," Phil said. "We try to use everything as fresh as possible. We're only 1,500 square feet and the kitchen is 480 square feet with one double door cooler. Everything is small so we keep everything fresh." One thing El Fogón isn't? Authentic. Now before you take that the wrong way, that's not to say the food isn't delicious. Or truly Mexican. But as Landa says, "you can't be authentic because every region has its own flavors. Everyone has their own way of doing things. We can't be authentic to one place or another. We just try to be a little different." And that includes experimenting with new dishes and recipes and testing them out with their customers. They'll create a new dish, like their avocado salsa, and will give small portions to diners as part of their meal to try. If they get good feedback, they'll add it to their menu. They also offer daily specials like $2 chicken or ground beef Taco Tuesday, $6 Burrito Wednesday, $7.95 Nacho Thursday and happy hour on Fridays. Landa's sister in law, Claudia Guerrero, who runs the bar program, crafts daily drink specials — like a cucumber, mint mezcal cocktail with a salt-and-pepper rim — that get posted to Facebook and also on a board in the bar area, which was recently remodeled. The menu features more than 15 different kinds of margaritas, which all use fresh ingredients. They'll make seasonal drinks as fruits come into season and also infuse tequila with habanero and ghost peppers. "We use a lot of fresh ingredients. We use better tequila," Landa said. "You can taste the difference in your drink. We concentrate on the taste and flavor." And that sentiment carries through with everything they do — especially when mama is in the kitchen.

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CHICO’S

| GREENVILLE, NC

An Authentic & Independent Stronghold by Liz Avera

When asked to divulge his secret to success, Adrian Vargas, co-owner of Chico’s Mexican Restaurant in Greenville, North Carolina, doesn’t hesitate. “Let me put it this way: I haven’t hired a cook in six years,” he boasts, equating the success of his restaurant to the longevity and happiness of its employees. Adrian and his partner pride themselves on above-industry-average treatment of their staff. All Chico’s employees work one of two shifts per day (even on Saturdays) and get two days off per week. “We treat them well,” says Adrian. “They work reasonable hours and they get to go home and spend time with their families. They’re happy here.” Customers are happy, too, because they’ve learned to expect consistency from Chico’s. Adrian and his partner run a smooth ship in terms of operations, and with his grassroots experience in the kitchen and his partner’s extensive front-ofhouse knowledge, the staff at Chico’s benefits from well-informed training and the customers profit from a reliable experience. “I’m hands-on,” says Adrian, who oversees everything from ordering to training to menu maintenance. “And I’m all about quality and consistency. We have strict pours at the bar and we use the freshest ingredients in all of our dishes. Our customers get their money’s worth.” In Greenville, North Carolina – home of the East Carolina Panthers – competition can be surprisingly steep for a Mexican establishment. As quick service chain restaurants invade the town, college students have easy access to multitudes of $5 meals, and suddenly $9 for a margarita isn’t too appealing. “It’s a challenge for us,” Adrian admits, noting that Greenville has over 300 restaurants and a population of only about 80,000. But that doesn’t stop the Chico’s team from putting quality first. “A lot of restaurants use easy-melt cheese for everything,” says Adrian. “Last year, I went through 24,000 pounds of real cheese – Cheddar and Monterey Jack.” The team even grates the cheese themselves. Each week, they also dice roughly 30 cases of tomatoes just for their salsa and mash over 10 cases of avocados for Guacamole. Adrian notes, “Customers say they love to go to Chico’s because they never find a piece of gristle in their fajitas – our food is fresh and good quality. I like to use 8 - 10 oz. chicken breast because it’s tender and juicy compared to the larger sizes. We don’t cut corners.” In addition to the chicken breast used in fajitas and other dishes, Chico’s also boils whole chickens for enchilada and taco meat. “I think I went through 30 chickens today!” he says. They even bread and fry the shrimp for the shrimp tacos themselves, which Adrian says helps the team accommodate for customers’ preferences and specifications, in terms of spice, for example. When asked if there’s anything on the menu that Adrian orders pre-prepared, he solemnly concedes, “We do buy chicken fingers and French fries. But that’s all!” n

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Brazil is plural. It is a country of contrasts, where diversity is found in every aspect in the life of its people. The same goes for Brazilian cuisine. Choosing a single element to sum up Brazilian cuisine is at the very least challenging, since we are talking about a massive country with over 8.5 million square kilometers of territory and a population of over 200 million. Its people are a melting pot of different ethnic groups, including its indigenous people, Europeans and Africans.

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n addition to the multiculturalism, the diversification in Brazilian cuisine is also the result of the differences in the climate, terrain, soil types, vegetation and available raw materials that typify each region of the country. When asked about the factor that best explains Brazil's particular spot in the food world, renowned Brazilian chefs Mara Salles and Carole Crema, are unanimous in their response: the quality of local ingredients is the biggest differentiator in Brazilian cuisine.

Carole Crema, a cook and pastry chef at La Vie en Douce, also located in São Paulo, believes that local Brazilian ingredients are even better than those used in other famous regional cuisines around the world. "For example, there is a lot of talk about how amazing Mediterranean food is because of its amazing ingredients. But ours are much more incredible. We have an ingredient-based cuisine. It's very regional, very diverse. Brazilians in the north eat maniçoba, fish from the river. In the northeast they also eat a lot of cassava, coconut, there’s a huge variety in local fruit. This is Brazil. Our culture of food revolves around good ingredients," says Carole.

"Our cuisine is very much tied to the natural quality of the ingredient and tied to ground-based kitchens, outdoor cooking fires, the wood-burning stove, the fruit on the tree. We have still not undergone more ancient processes of transforming the ingredient. The cuisine does not have a lot of transformative processes," says Mara Salles, a chef at the Tordesilhas restaurant, located in the city of São Paulo, in southeastern Brazil.

And the chefs are right. The care and creativity that each region in Brazil uses to incorporate ingredients and local raw materials into their cooking has been built over the history of this interesting melting pot that characterizes Brazilian cuisine.

She recalls that this pure relationship between Brazilians and ingredients has its origins in the country’s indigenous roots. "The geography in Brazil made everything very easy for the indigenous people. We have a more favorable climate. In other countries in Latin America, such as Peru and Bolivia, in the Andes, the native people had serious problems with temperature; they had to make preserves, store food during the cold season, preserve potatoes in ash, that is, they had so many techniques that we didn't need. The native people here in Brazil harvested and ate. So, we ended up incorporating more of this natural quality, this simple thing, which makes the ingredient stand alone, makes it a protagonist," says Mara.

Dishes made using typical coastal fish come from the famous northeastern culture, while "manteiga de garrafa," a type of clarified butter, and typical Brazilian jerked meats like "carnede-sol" and "charque" represent the flavors of the sertão region. "The food of the northeast is one of my favorites, especially Bahian food. I like the African mix of coconut with fish and peppers," shares chef Carole Crema. At the other end of the country, in the south, in addition to the traditional gaucho grilled meats, the European influence on the local cuisine is also unique. This influence comes from the significant Italian and German colonization of the region from 1880 to 1930. And in the central-west region, the peculiarity of regional ingredients sets the original tone of recipes, where the stars are freshwater fish, guariroba palm, different types of pirão and fish broths, among other dishes.

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In the cooking of the southeast, one of the country's wealthiest regions, the cuisine of the state of Minas Gerais is among the most prominent. With its significant AfroIndigenous influence, main ingredients include annatto, cassava, corn and native sprouts, in addition to pork and chicken, dishes such as arroz carreteiro (a type of dirty rice), tropeiro beans and cracklings make the food of Minas Gerais one of the richest, most flavorful and most appreciated in all of Brazil. "The cuisine of Minas Gerais has this rich quality of having learned from lots of people that came from elsewhere and left a very valuable heritage of flavors, dishes and rules that local cooks learned very well," says Mara Salles. Not only has food from northern Brazil become more popular in the country itself in recent years, but it is also known to delight foreign visitors. Exotic and made using indigenous techniques, it is a cuisine that is dominated by the fruit, fish and vegetables exclusive to the region.

"Brazilians have surely begun to appreciate their products more in recent years. There is more of a focus on family farmers, in addition to a more intense exchange within the country itself between the different types of cuisines we have," says Carole Crema. For Mara Salles, Brazilian cuisine today is "returning to the natural quality of the ingredient, to a pure, good, clean product of good origins that is fresh. "I see a tighter connection between the cuisine and the product, with the premise of not interfering so much in the ingredient, of showing it how it truly is, with its skin, leaves and seeds. This aesthetic beauty of the pure ingredient has even been very much explored. It is a natural quality that has everything to do with our cuisine," says Mara. n

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"Every type of food in Brazil has something special; they are all notable for something. But I would say that Amazon cuisine, because of the distance and how hard it is to access, is the most entrenched. I love it," says Mara.

The two chefs think that the originality of Brazilian cooking is what currently guarantees that the country has such a high profile internationally, gaining more and more prominence among the world's best cuisines. This is partly due to a movement started a few years ago and led by popular local chefs and by trade media, which focuses precisely on appreciation of genuinely Brazilian ingredients.

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See their favorite dishes and learn more about the unique cuisine of Brazil online at rfsdelivers.com.

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without Breaking the Bank By Mary Daggett

W

hile some restaurants have made a name for themselves by relying solely on word-ofmouth, in today’s competitive world, that’s a risky business proposition. Formulating a wellthought-out marketing plan; defining objectives; and taking advantage of low-hanging fruit will pay bigger dividends in the long term. As the restaurant industry continues to evolve, lately we’ve been hearing that many operators state that they are returning to basics. While social media has dramatically changed the complexion of marketing, think twice before throwing out the baby with the bathwater. In other words, remember some of the tried-andtrue marketing tactics that not only work, but are also easy on the budget.

Old School Advertising The death of traditional news media turned out to be a greatly exaggerated myth. Even national chains still use these established media outlets to reach local folks.

RADIO Many commuters listen to local radio while on the road to and from work. Advertisers have a captive audience during AM and PM drive times. Remind folks that a visit to your eatery will make their day a bit more stress-free – and delicious.

TELEVISION Lots of people tune in to morning TV, especially to watch the weather forecast. Consider an affordable TV buy, with a memorable tagline such as: “This weather report is brought to you by Joe’s Pizza. We deliver in all kinds of weather.” Local shows are searching for interesting guests, and cooking segments are especially welcome. If you or your chef is comfortable with live cooking demonstrations, contact show producers and offer your talent for a weekly segment.

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Community Outreach There are many opportunities for operators to get involved in their local communities. Commitment to the community is a bona fide win-win for all. It fosters loyalty among local patrons, establishes an operator as a good corporate citizen and makes the world a brighter, better place.

SPONSORSHIPS Supporting local youth programs is a smart way to advertise. Little leagues, soccer teams and other endeavors need financial support. Every kid, parent and spectator will notice the name of your operation emblazoned on uniforms, tee shirts and jerseys. Treat the group to a celebration, and your place will become their place too, well into the future.

CHARITIES More than ever, it is critical to support local charities. Participation in worthwhile causes – Boys and Girls Clubs, Race for the Cure, donations to food banks – will bolster the community and enhance your image.

BRING THE COMMUNITY TO YOUR DOOR Contact your Chamber of Commerce and Tourism Bureau to enlist their help in promoting your establishment. That’s their job. Contact local organizations such as Jaycees and Rotary, to offer your restaurant for monthly luncheons or dinner banquets. Contact HR departments of large employers to offer menus with discount coupons and to promote your corporate event space.

Go

TEAM

Signage Make sure that your signage indicates you are ready for prime time. Make an impression with everyone that passes by; thus, do not make the mistake of employing wimpy outdoor messaging.

YOUR NAME IN LIGHTS Neon signage can be a great way to garner attention. If you can afford it, have your name/logo immortalized in neon. Even if all you can afford is a ready-made neon sign stating “OPEN,” it will grab awareness. An alternative is to hire a professional artist to design a sign for big impact.

DISPLAY YOUR MENU Mount your menu in a glassed in display case with several color shots of tantalizing menu specialties to tempt hungry passersby.

BLOW YOUR OWN HORN If you’ve won local “Best of” competitions or other distinctions, be sure to have these presentations framed and mounted in conspicuous places inside to share the good news. n

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$TEALS and DEALS by Min Casey

Restaurants lose more from internal theft at the hands of employees than from guests and other external sources. Proactive steps may not be able to stop it altogether but they can minimize the damage.

He described himself to police as a modern-day Robin Hood, an IHOP server who worked at a Brooklyn, N.Y. location of the family-dining chain. He was robbing from the restaurant, serving free beverages to select customers.

Charges of grand larceny, criminal possession of stolen property and petit larceny were filed. The perp remained unapologetic. “What’s the big deal? I’ve been doing this since I started here,” he was quoted as saying to police.

“I am not stealing,” he told investigators earlier this year. “I am serving the ones in need. I take from the rich and give to the poor.”

Theft by employees is a large and troubling problem in restaurants, the pathway paved by near-endless opportunity. While there are no current data for restaurants specifically (the National Restaurant Association last reported on it in 2004), the retail sector under which restaurants fall sees 7% of annual revenue lost to theft or fraud, with nearly 43% of that attributable to employee sales retail theft. Shoplifting, widely viewed as a bigger

A POS system helped track the misguided Robin Hood. The IHOP franchise owner noticed that his beverage sales were low relative to other working the same shifts—6% of total sales versus 20%. He began video surveillance and soon had evidence.

threat, accounts for just 35.6% of lost revenue, according to a study by Checkpoint Systems. In both front- and back-ofhouse, restaurant workers have free access to food and equipment, and a nearly endless roster of methods to implement devious plans. Cash transactions are reported to be the largest source of leakage, with dollars easily diverted from the cash till to back pockets via such ploys as voids, no sales and bogus coupons. Free menu items for friends, a purloined bottle of wine or printing cartridges, time-card fraud or cases of meat walking out the back door are among other common scenarios.

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PROACTIVE STEPS It’s much better to prevent theft rather than deal with its aftermath. Here are steps every operator should take to minimize opportunities for internal stealing. • Create and foster a positive culture. Although this may sound like simplistic cheerleading, workers in an upbeat environment in which they feel valued are less likely to steal. “It’s a problem for a lot of businesses,” agrees Kristina Buchthal Regal, an associate attorney for Lavelle Law, Ltd. in Palatine, Ill. In terms of handing it, she advises that the best course of action is for restaurant operators to act before it happens. “Prevention is the best thing a business owner can do,” she says, adding that systems often are already in place to track routine transactions. “If you give a manager a credit card for incidentals, monitor that statement every month. Pay attention to the POS system and know what could be going out the door. Some restaurants actually lock up the large bottles of pure vanilla extract— they can cost more than $100.” Theft is hardly confined to hourly workers. Checkpoint’s data show that 37% of retail theft is committed by a manager. Says Regal, “Even people you trust have to be scrutinized.” And if you discover criminal activity, she strongly advises immediate escalation. “Refer it to the police. If you don’t stop them,

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people will strike again, emboldened by their success to do a little more, make it a little bigger.” Lance Ziebell, also an attorney at Lavelle Law, Ltd., similarly suggests a proactive approach that starts with restaurants clearly and unequivocally telling employees how they handle theft and fraud. “As a general procedure, have an employee handbook that spells out exactly what can lead to termination,” he says. “If there is no guidance they might feel they can get away with giving away a drink to friends.” Built on a foundation of guest hospitality, it’s not uncommon for restaurants to express that tenet by comping a round of drinks or sending free desserts to regulars. That simple gesture, borne of goodwill, can be misread by employees who may come to think it is entirely their discretion when to give away free food or drinks. “Have clear, written guidelines around everything” says Ziebell.

• Communicate a clear and consistent policy on what constitutes theft and on the repercussions should it be uncovered. This information should be part of all newemployee orientation, with periodic reminders for everyone. • Install video surveillance. Coverage should be thorough in vulnerable areas of the restaurant such as the bar, back door, POS system and storerooms. • Regularly review POS data to see if any irregularities are revealed. Also limit access to POS systems and ensure that a manager is required to override transactions. • Keep close tabs on inventory. Check-in all food deliveries from suppliers and then record it as received. Limit access to storage areas and lock up food, liquor and equipment that is most costly or likely to be pilfered. • Cash transactions are highly vulnerable. Have wellestablished and carefully monitored policies for handling them. n


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Reasons You Should Consider Changing Your Menu By Sophia Kramarz

Making the decision to refresh your menu can be a delicate balancing act, but it’s worth exploring every six to twelve months to ensure that your restaurant stays profitable, that you’re staying true to the type of establishment you want to maintain and so you can continue to bring tried-and-true diners in the door along with highly coveted newbies. While we’re not recommending that you completely change every aspect of your menu, we do want to provide you with four thought starters as to why you should considering an update.

Bring Your Prices Up to Date Food cost changes can have a dramatic impact on your profits. If you’re seeing fluctuations in the cost of your proteins, it might be worth looking into updating how much you’re charging for your popular dishes or even updating portion sizes.

Promote High Profit Items If you’ve been in business for a good amount of time, you probably know what your most popular items are as well as which make you the most money. If those items are buried on your menu, it might make sense to do a revamp to bring more attention to those dishes and boost your bottom line.

Refresh Design There’s nothing wrong with the 80s, but artistic styles and trends in design have definitely changed a lot since then. Even in the last 5-10 years, aesthetics and appeal have shifted, so it may be worth having someone with an eye for design give you their input on your menu.

Add Relevant Wording With the rise of Celiac Disease and more consumers opting to go vegan, it’s increasingly important that you label your menu accordingly. Chances are if your menu is over five years old, it won’t say that your top item is gluten free. So if it is in fact gluten free, make sure to label it!

Remember, a change doesn’t have to mean a complete overhaul. Replacing an unpopular appetizer with a trendy new option or adding a few seasonal dishes could just do the trick. At the end of the day, you want to best promote your bestsellers, add a few new items and ensure that your customers remain loyal!

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 33


F B O OU D S & I B EN V E R SA G S E

SOCIAL 101:

TACTICS AND TIPS

FOR EVERY

RESTAURANT by Ari Bendersky

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The days of wondering whether you need a website or social media account for your restaurant are long over. Diners are more Internet savvy than ever before and the moment they enter your restaurant they're snapping photos to post to Instagram, checking in on Facebook and gearing up to either praise or trash you on Yelp. Getting your restaurant set up on social media is easy. Managing your accounts is another story altogether. If you own multiple outlets or are a large restaurant operator, you may want to consider hiring a person dedicated to monitoring and managing your social media and web properties. Not only are they more skilled, but it frees you up to focus on your restaurant's operations. If you only have one restaurant, here are some simple rules you can put into action. We reached out to social media experts who work with restaurants large and small across the country to pick their brains and get some great tips to help you hone your practice.

COURTNEY SANDORA OWNER GO SOCIAL, LOUISVILLE, KY.

Client Examples: Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant, Rock Bottom Brewery, El Meson Sandwiches, Old Chicago Pizza & Taproom

Build a Stable of Appetizing Photos Investing in good food photography is key. Find a photographer who can shoot your food in a natural restaurant environment so it doesn't look too posed, but still looks appetizing. While it's great to show fan photos of food, be selective. Always showcase your product in the best light.

Customer Service is Key Responding to unhappy customers is important in any industry on social, but especially in the restaurant industry as people love to talk about food online. Most people want to know they've been heard and their feedback is passed along. If someone is upset be sure to take it offline. Always offer to have a manager follow up by phone as well. That personal touch goes a long way.

Create Excitement Before the doors open for new restaurants or renovations, engage fans with sneak peek photos and invite them to enjoy a VIP lunch or dinner during your soft launch. These are the people who can help you spread the word online so make them feel like they were a part of the process.

Post Bite-sized Content Give each dish its own dedicated post and lead fans to your website to see the full menu. People scan social quickly and you need to grab their attention. An image with too much text will cause them to tune out, but an enticing food photo will grab them every time.

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BILLY HALL

CO-OWNER HALL MANAGEMENT GROUP, CHARLESTON, S.C.

Hall Restaurants: Halls Chophouse, Rita’s Seaside Grille, High Cotton, SNOB, Old Village Post House

Showcase Your Guests

Engage With Guests

We feature our guests enjoying their time in our restaurant and we encourage them to share their posts. We want to project excitement and energy within our restaurants through to our social audience. What better way to show this than the actual people in our restaurants?

Social media is all about engagement, so we make sure to be just as engaging in real life, not just through our social channels. Social media is useful to establish a connection with people, but no engagement or connection is better than the one you get inside the restaurant.

Back in the days of IRC (Internet Relay Chat), circa 1988, hashtags were already used to categorize items like messages, images, videos and other content into groups. Hashtags made it possible for IRC users to easily search for relevant and other associated content.

#BenefitsForBusiness Today, the power of social media marketing can help create greater brand awareness and boost your sales and profitability.

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Social 101: Tactics and Tips for Every Restaurant

ANDREW CARAVELLA

VP OF MARKETING FOR SPROUT SOCIAL, CHICAGO

Clients: TK

Limit Your Platforms It's better to be active and cultivate communities on one or two platforms rather than spreading yourself too thin across so many channels that your presence is weak. If you're just starting out, begin with the more established platforms like Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. That may be enough. For restaurants, visual and multimedia-focused platforms like Pinterest, Vine and Snapchat could make sense.

Listen First. Engage Second. Listen to what people are saying about your brand, industry and area so you can participate in those conversations and contribute in a meaningful way. If someone is talking about the lack of good cocktail bars in the area, it could be an opportunity for you to jump in and tell them about your new craft cocktail menu. Also, discover and participate in conversations beyond direct @mentions. Mix in some content, promotions and special offers specific to your establishment and you remain authentic while adding value and driving business.

Take Advantage of a Platform's Strengths For example, Instagram is a powerful visual platform, so restaurants can post pictures and video clips that showcase their food, plating and atmosphere. Behind the scenes and original content is great on Instagram. Twitter is suited for responding to customers in real time and in mostly public interactions, but the nature of the feed is so quick that promotional messages and activity can get lost. Facebook and Instagram provide a lot of opportunities via their geo-tag capabilities to identify people who are at your restaurant and then engage with them directly during or after their visit. Researching and following hashtags on all three platforms is a great way to identify and cultivate communities, as well. n

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Beyond the Taco Celebrating the Diversity of Mexican Cuisine

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Authentic to Tex Mex to Regional & Everything in Between ELOTE (Mexican Street Corn) with Queso & Cilantro p. 47

Mexican food has a lengthy and diverse history, which has caused it to mean different things to different chefs. When we asked our culinary experts to craft approachable, upscale and innovative twists on Mexican dishes, we got a ton of variety. And we weren't surprised. After all, Mexican cuisine varies greatly, depending on region, and the United States has its own far-fromauthentic cuisine: Tex-Mex.

So while we do have a few more traditional recipes in the following pages of Restaurant Inc, like tacos and tamales, we also have a few more "modernized" takes on Hispanic dishes and regional favorites. For example, our tlayuda recipe is a favorite in traditional Oaxacan cuisine and, for simplicity's sake, is a take on a Mexican pizza. We also explored some truly unique dishes we think will take you for a whirl. Think grilled octopus with a lime, jalapeĂąo and agave aioli. Enjoy!

Photography by Dan Coha Photography Food Styling by Susan Hevey

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Tlayuda (Mexican Pizza) CHEF JEFF MERRY | Reinhart® Boston Division

INGREDIENTS 1 each 10” Tortilla ¼ C Queso Fresco, Crumbled Bean Paste 􀀀 4 oz cooked black beans (well drained) 􀀀 ½ C Diced Onion 􀀀 ¼ tsp Ground Cumin 􀀀 1 Chipotle Pepper in Adobo 􀀀 1 Tbsp Olive Oil 􀀀 ¼ tsp Brown Sugar SLAW 􀀀 ¼ C Diced Tomatoes 􀀀 ½ C Shredded Lettuce, Cilantro 􀀀 2 tsp Lime Juice

Portion Cost: $1.50 Suggested Menu Price: $5.95 Profit: $4.45

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PREPARATION [servings: 1] Make the slaw by tossing lettuce with cilantro, tomatoes and lime juice. Refrigerate. Sauté onion in olive oil, add cumin. Place beans, chipotle pepper, brown sugar and 3 Tbsp. water into a blender and blend until smooth. Take tortilla and place on baking sheet. Spread your bean mixture and sprinkle cheese. Bake until edges are crisp and cheese is melting. Cut into wedges and top with slaw.


Tacos al Pastor

Tetelas (Stuffed Pockets)

3 lbs Pork shoulder, cut into ½-inch slices 􀀀 3 C Chipotle Adobo Marinade (see below) 􀀀 ½ Pineapple, peeled, cut into ½-inch slices 􀀀 TT Olive oil 􀀀 TT Coarse sea salt 􀀀 12 -­‐14 Corn tortillas 􀀀 (optional) Chihuahua cheese, Fresh salsa, Fresh limes, (optional) Chopped onions

􀀀 3 each 6” White Corn Tortillas

CHIPOTLE ADOBO MARINADE 􀀀 7 oz can of Chipotle peppers in adobo sauce 􀀀 3 Garlic cloves 􀀀 ½ C Diced vidalia onion 􀀀 1/3 C Orange juice 􀀀 1/3 C Lime juice 􀀀 1/3 C White distilled vinegar 􀀀 1 tsp Freshly ground black pepper 􀀀 ½ tsp Ground cumin 􀀀 ½ tsp Ground cinnamon 􀀀 ½ tsp Ground allspice 􀀀 1 tsp Brown sugar 􀀀 1 tsp Coarse sea salt

BEAN PASTE

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION [servings: 3] Chipotle Adobo Marinade: In a blender, place the peppers and sauce. Add the rest of the ingredients. Puree until smooth. Use as marinade. Marinate the meat in the adobo marinade for at least 3 hours, or up to 48 hours, in the refrigerator. Reserve 3/4 C of marinade to brush on the pineapple before grilling/ cooking and to finish off meat. Brush pineapple with marinade and over medium -­‐high heat char on both sides. Remove and allow to cool. Remove core and cut into slices, place in bowl and set aside. Heat oil in skillet and add meat. Sear on both sides. Remove and cut into strips. Return to skillet and finish cooking. Pour the rest of the unused marinade on top. Stir and cook for another minute. On a preheated skillet set over medium heat, heat the corn tortillas 1 to 2 minutes. Serve family style with meat, shredded Chihuahua cheese, grilled pineapple, fresh salsa, fresh limes and chopped onions.

INGREDIENTS 􀀀 6 tsp

Pulled Pork

􀀀 3 Tbsp Bean Paste (see below) 􀀀 3 oz Avocado Crema TT

(½ Sour Cream & ½ avocado pulp)

􀀀 3 tsp Shredded Chihuahua Cheese 􀀀 TT

Salsa

􀀀 4 oz Cooked black beans (well drained) 􀀀 ½ C Diced Onion 􀀀 ¼ tsp Ground Cumin 􀀀 1 Chipotle Pepper in Adobo Sauce 􀀀 1 Tbsp Olive Oil 􀀀 ¼ tsp Brown Sugar

PREPARATION [servings: 3] Create the bean paste by mixing all ingredients together in a food processor. Place 1 Tbsp of black bean paste, 2 tsp of pulled pork and 1 tsp of shredded cheese in your tortilla. Form by folding top to center, then sides to center. (Forms a triangle) Place seam­‐side down on heated skillet, cook for 1 minute then turn. Drizzle avocado crema and serve with salsa.

Portion Cost: $3.25 Suggested Menu Price: $9.95 Profit: $6.70

Portion Cost: $2.95 Suggested Menu Price: $9.95 Profit: $7.00 All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

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Torta Ahogada CHEF PAUL YOUNG | Reinhart® Milwaukee Division

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION [servings: 4]

8 oz Tomato, Diced In Juice 􀀀 2 oz Jumbo Red Onion, Thinly Sliced 􀀀 2 Tbsp Whole Peeled Garlic, Minced 􀀀¼oz Jalapeño Pepper, Diced 􀀀 1 oz Chipotle Pepper In Adobo Sauce 􀀀 1 Tbsp Kosher Salt 􀀀 20 oz Boneless Pork Carnita Meat 􀀀 2 Tbsp Gourmet Chicken Base 􀀀 2 C water 􀀀 1 tsp Ground Cumin Seed 􀀀 4 oz Avocado, Smashed 􀀀 4 Ciabatta Buns

In a large pan, add together the diced tomatoes, onions, garlic, jalapeño, chipotle and salt. Bring to a simmer then add in the carnita meat. Let the mixture simmer for approximately 20 minutes. Remove the carnita meat from the pan and set aside. Add to the remaining mixture in the pan :‐ 2 C water, the chicken base and cumin. Bring to a boil and reduce about 20%. With a stick blender, blend until the mixture is smooth. This mixture should be thin.

Portion Cost: $1.87 Suggested Menu Price: $5.95 Profit: $4.08

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In a bowl, mash the avocado and season with salt and pepper. To build the torta, smear the avocado on both halves of the bread. Add the carnita meat and red onion. Slice on bias. Serve in a bowl with the tomato sauce at the bottom and cut sides of the torta down so the sandwich stands up.

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.


butchers twine if you wish). Repeat with the other 5 tamales. Stand the tamales up on their folded end and steam them for approximately 1 hour or until the dough pulls away from the husk easily.

Portion Cost: $2.10 Suggested Menu Price: $6.95 Profit: $4.85

Carne Asada Tamales INGREDIENTS 3 Tbsp

Blended Olive Oil

1 oz 1 Tbsp 2 tsp 1 tsp 3 tsp 1 Tbsp 8 oz 3 oz 8 oz 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 3/8 oz

Small Yellow Onion, diced Chipotle Pepper In Adobo Sauce Whole Peeled Garlic Crushed Red Pepper Dark Chili Powder Kosher Salt Boneless Flank Steak, trimmed Tamale Corn Husk (Enconchada) Enriched Yellow Cornmeal Baking Powder Salt Crisco® Shortening

PREPARATION [servings: 3] In a hot sauté pan, add 2 tsp of the blended oil and the diced onion. Cook until translucent. Remove from heat and drain the onion on a paper towel. In a blender add the rest of the oil, chipotle, garlic, crushed red pepper, chili powder and salt. Blend until fully combined. Marinate the steak in your marinade for at least one hour. Once marinated, remove and grill until medium. Remove from heat and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. Dice the beef and combine with the onions. Set aside. In a large bowl, cover the corn husks (approximately 6) in cold water and let them sit for at least 45 minutes up to 2 hours. For the dough: Take the corn meal and mix with the baking powder and 1 tsp. of salt. Add in the Crisco and knead with your hands. If the dough is too dry add a bit more Crisco. Remove the husks from the water and shake off any excess. Add 1 oz. of dough to the top portion of the husk and pat down. Add about 1 oz. of the carne asada mixture (leaving room on the dough on the sides) and cover the meat with the remaining dough. Roll the corn husk loosely and fold the bottom end of the husk up (you can then tie this together with

Watermelon Mojito INGREDIENTS 4 oz 1/2 C 1/4 each 1/2 oz 1 1/2 oz 1-½ oz

Granulated Sugar water Seedless Watermelon Fresh Mint Leaves Persian Lime Kosher Salt White Rum

PREPARATION [servings: 3] In a sauce pot, add 1/2 C of sugar to 1/2 C of water and bring to a simmer. Once the sugar is fully melted and incorporated into the water remove from heat. This is your simple syrup. In a blender, add 1/4 watermelon (outer layer removed) and blend until well puréed. Put the juice and pulp through a fine chinois to strain the juice. You can discard the pulp. In a glass, add a lime wedge and some mint leaves. Muddle lightly with a muddler or a wooden spoon. Add in 1-1/2 oz. of simple syrup, 1-1/2 oz. of your favorite white rum, then top off with the watermelon juice. Enjoy.

Portion Cost: $1.31 Suggested Menu Price: $5.95 Profit: $4.64 SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 43


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Achiote & Lime Marinated Wings w/Chorizo CHEF LEE SEPANIAC | Culinary Specialist, Gourmet Food Group

INGREDIENTS 􀀀 6 -­‐8 each Jumbo Split Wings 􀀀 1 oz Achiote Paste 􀀀 1 Tbsp Minced Garlic 􀀀 1 each Fresh Lime, Juice and Zest 􀀀 1 tsp Kosher Salt 􀀀 2 oz Fresh Chorizo Sausage, sliced 􀀀 2 oz Pickled Jalapeño 􀀀 1 each Lime, halved, then grilled AVOCADO CILANTRO CREMA (Makes 2 servings) 􀀀 1 each Fresh, Ripe Avocado 􀀀 4 oz Sour Cream 􀀀 1 each Lime Juice 􀀀 1 Tbsp Fresh Chopped Cilantro

Portion Cost: $5.10 Suggested Menu Price: $10.95 Profit: $5.85

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PREPARATION [servings: 1] Marinate wings in achiote paste, garlic, lime juice, zest and salt for at least 2 hours. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes until fully cooked, adding the sliced chorizo and pickled jalapeño in the last 10 minutes. Cut lime and half, and mark on the grill, then plate as a functional garnish for the wings. Combine all items for the crema in a robo coup and puree until smooth. Serve either on the side or use a squeeze bottle to sauce the wings after plated.


Marinated Grilled Octopus w/a Lime, Jalapeño & Agave Aioli & Pan-Fried Masa Cake

Wagyu Carne Asada Roulade INGREDIENTS 􀀀 6 oz

Wagyu Inside Skirt Steak

􀀀 4 oz White Onion, peeled

INGREDIENTS

􀀀 1 oz Fresh Cilantro

􀀀 8 oz

Large Octopus Tentacle

􀀀 2 oz

Mojo Criollo Marinade

􀀀 1 oz

Pineapple Juice

􀀀 1 tsp

Dried Mexican Oregano

􀀀 TT

Salt & Pepper

JALAPEÑO & AGAVE AIOLI (Yield-­‐ 4 x 2 oz portions)

􀀀 3 oz Sweet Corn CHIPOTLE ROASTED PLANTAIN & SPANISH SWEET PEA RICE 􀀀 6 oz 1/2-inch sliced Plantain 􀀀 1 tsp Smoked Spanish Paprika

􀀀 2 Whole Roasted Jalapeños

􀀀 TT

􀀀 4 cloves Whole Roasted Garlic

􀀀 1/4 C Short Grain Rice

􀀀 1 oz

Lime Juice

􀀀 1 Tbsp Spanish Rice Seasoning

􀀀 1 oz

Agave Nectar

􀀀 1/2 C Chicken Stock

􀀀 1 C

Mayonnaise

􀀀 3 oz

􀀀 1 oz

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

MASA CAKE (Makes 2 portions) 􀀀 1 C

Masa

􀀀 1-1/2 C

Chicken Stock

􀀀 Salt and Cayenne Pepper, to taste GRILLED & MARINATED ASPARAGUS 􀀀 4 Jumbo Asparagus 􀀀 1 oz

Mojo Criollo marinade

􀀀 TT

Salt & Pepper

PREPARATION [servings: 1] Marinate the octopus tentacles in the pineapple juice, oregano, salt and pepper for 30 -­‐40 minutes. Grill for about 6 -­‐8 minutes, until cooked, basting with the Mojo Criollo marinade. Roast jalapeños and garlic cloves at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes, then combine lime juice, agave mixture, mayonnaise and olive oil in robo coup and puree until smooth.

Salt & Pepper

Sweet Peas

PREPARATION [servings: 1] Puree onion and fresh cilantro into a paste. Cut skirt steak into a 6 oz. portion and then spread with the onion and cilantro mixture. Top with the sweet corn and then roll with the grain of the steak, secure with skewers, once fully rolled. Grill to medium, about 8 -­‐10 minutes, rest for 2 minutes and then slice across the roulade exposing the pinwheel of the roulade. Pan -­‐roast sliced ripe plantain evenly on both sides for 4 minutes per side. Remove from pan and toss with paprika, salt and pepper. Combine short grain rice, Spanish rice seasoning and chicken stock and then simmer for 15 -­‐18 minutes until done. Finish by adding the sweet peas before plating the rice.

Bring chicken stock, salt and cayenne to a simmer and add the masa. Cook for 6 -­‐8 minutes and then pour onto a sheet pan to cool. When fully cooled, cut cakes with a round cutter and pan fry until golden brown.

Portion Cost: $8.94 Suggested Menu Price: $24.95 Profit: $16.01

Blanch the asparagus in salted water for 2 minutes and then shock in ice water. Coat the asparagus in the marinade and quickly grill for 2 minutes. After removing the asparagus from the grill, baste again with the remaining marinade.

Portion Cost: $7.27 Suggested Menu Price: $14.95 Profit: $7.68

All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.

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Grilled Zucchini & Black Bean Tostadas Markon® Recipe Plate Cost: $1.02 Suggested Menu Price: $6.99 Profit: $5.97

INGREDIENTS 2/3 C

Black Beans, cooked

􀀀 2/3 C Markon First Crop (MFC) Zucchini, grilled & chopped 􀀀 1/2 C Corn, grilled and cut from cob 􀀀 2 Tbsp Ready-Set-Serve (RSS) Washed & Trimmed Cilantro, chopped 􀀀 4 Corn tortillas, baked until crisp 􀀀 1 C

RSS Pico de Gallo Guacamole

􀀀 4 oz RSS Arcadian Harvest Ruby

PREPARATION [servings: 4] Mix together beans, zucchini, corn, and cilantro; set aside. Spread 1/4 C guacamole on each baked tortilla. Top with equal portion of bean mixture. Garnish with RSS Arcadian Harvest Ruby and serve.

Find more recipes on page 104 or visit .com rfsdelivers

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All pricing/costing for the Food Fight Recipes is approximate. Local pricing & products may vary by division.


Elote (Mexican Grilled Corn) w/Queso & Cilantro Markon® Recipe

INGREDIENTS 4 ears

Corn, husked, cleaned

􀀀 2 Tbsp Queso cheese 􀀀 2 Tbsp Unsalted butter 􀀀 2 Tbsp Low-fat mayonnaise 􀀀 2 Tbsp Ready-Set-Serve (RSS) Washed & Trimmed Cilantro 􀀀 2 Tbsp RSS Lime Juice 􀀀 1 tsp Lime zest 􀀀 ¼ tsp Cayenne pepper

PREPARATION [servings: 4] Mix together queso, butter, mayonnaise, cilantro, lime juice and zest, and cayenne pepper. Grill corn until charred. Slather ears of corn with mixture and serve (two halves per person).

Portion Cost: $0.45 Suggested Menu Price: $2.95 Profit: $2.50

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THE

MOMENTUM

from Siesta to Fiesta Mary Daggett


THERE IS SOMETHING SO COMPELLING ABOUT MEXICAN CUISINE AND CUSTOMS. Whether you have experienced Mexican haute cuisine in Cabo, serenaded by soft guitar and Pacific breezes; or whether you’ve joined the conga line at Senor Frogs in Cancún during spring break — you get the appeal. The upbeat music makes you move; the relaxed, friendly attitudes of the people make you smile; the tropical flowers and colorful décor heighten the fiesta mood. And the food is so flavorful and varied — everything from the freshest ceviche to the juiciest burrito — it runs the gamut from delicate and savory to substantial and fiery.

Mexican cuisine has stood the test of time in the United States, consistently sharing the trifecta of top concepts with Italian and Chinese. In fact, according to Aimee Harvey, managing editor of global content for Technomic, it is the most popular ethnic cuisine. “Mexican cuisine has gone mainstream in the U.S.,” said Harvey. “It is wellentrenched on all kinds of menus across the country.” We asked Harvey to characterize authentic Mexican cuisine in contrast with TexMex, which is more prevalent in the U.S. “Authentic Mexican cuisine is very simple. Not a lot of ingredients are used. In coastal cities, fresh fish and seafood are minimally enhanced to allow their natural flavor to stand out. Street tacos in Mexico City usually contain just meat, onions and cilantro. Tex-Mex is more elaborate,

offering diners more options for their tacos and burritos.” Customization of Mexican menu items continues to grow at about five percent each year. According to Harvey, menus in general are contracting. “Smaller menus allow operators to showcase their specialties. However, in the past year, we’ve tracked a 67 percent increase in taco appetizers at major chains in the United States.” The food contributions born and bred in Mexico are widespread. Corn is likely the most important. It was domesticated nearly 10,000 years ago, and sustained Native Americans the same way that rice did in Asia. Beans are another plentiful and nutritious mainstay of the Mexican diet. Chili peppers were in use in Mexico at least 6,000 years ago. Chocolate, tomatoes, avocados – all came out of Mexico.

67 percent increase in taco appetizers at major chains in the united states

Lots of the spectacular foods that the world takes for granted today can be traced to Mexico. Spanish conquistadors were responsible for first introducing the rest of the world to many of the foods they found in Mexico. More recently, we must give due credit to modern day chefs in Mexico and the United States for further solidifying our love of Mexican foods. Outstanding American chefs have found themselves so inspired and captivated by the foods and cooking techniques of Mexico that they have centered their entire careers on this focus.

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Chef rick bayless Chef Rick Bayless was born in Oklahoma to a multigenerational restaurant family. This authenticity seeker has spent much time in Mexico, and has parlayed his love of the country’s food into a culinary dynasty that includes worldfamous restaurants in Chicago. Bayless opened Frontera Grill to much critical acclaim in 1987. Next came the more upscale Topolobampo in 1991. In 2009, the fast-casual Xoco began serving classic Mexican soups and sandwiches and bean-to-cup Mexican chocolate. The Frontera line of salsas,

cooking sauces and organic chips are sold at retail from coast to coast. Bayless owns seven James Beard Awards in several different categories. He’s published nine cookbooks, and was nominated for a daytime Emmy for Best Culinary Host. His current TV series, “Mexico— One Plate at a Time,” appears on Public Television across the country. The Government of Mexico honored Bayless with the Mexican Order of the Aztec Eagle — the highest decoration bestowed on foreigners whose work has benefitted Mexico and its people.

Chefs Mary Sue Milliken & Susan Feniger Chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger were both successful French chefs at a time when there weren’t too many female peers. In 1985, these two intrepid women set off in a VW to explore firsthand the authentic foods and cooking traditions of Mexico. They felt compelled to make the trip because they had become so enamored of the dishes prepared and shared by Mexican cooks in the back-of-the house at U.S. restaurants. After their travels, Milliken and Feniger felt compelled to open Border Grill in Los Angeles, serving modern Mexican cuisine. The

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chefs have since expanded the borders of Border Grill many times, adding locations in Santa Monica and Las Vegas. They also have two Border Grill food trucks in L.A., and two locations at L.A. International Airport. The chefs have co-authored numerous cookbooks, and together starred in nearly 400 episodes of the Food Network’s “Too Hot Tamales.” Milliken and Feniger were honored in 2013 with the California Restaurant Association’s Lifetime Achievement Award; and in 2014, they were welcomed into the Menu Masters Hall of Fame.


THE MEXICAN MOMENTUM – FROM SIESTA TO FIESTA There is also a wealth of incredibly talented Mexican-born chefs and chefs of Mexican descent showcasing authentic specialties in the United States. Here are several from two generations:

Chef hugo ortega Hugo Ortega is a native of Puebla, Mexico, and one of the foremost chefs making his mark with Mexican in the U.S. today. This versatile trendsetter operates Backstreet Café (seasonal American), Hugo’s (regional Mexican) and Prego (neighborhood Italian) in Houston. Several years ago, Ortega premiered Caracol Mexican Coastal Cuisine, also in Houston, paying homage to the abundance of fresh Mexican delicacies from the sea. Ortega wanted to showcase the authentic regional and historic dishes of the sixteen states sited

along its vast coastline, either on the Pacific Ocean, Gulf of Mexico or the Caribbean. In 2003, Ortega and his brother Jose Luis, who is also a chef, refined their technique for making conch ceviche together on the beach in Playa del Carmen. He named Caracol, which means “conch” in Spanish, in honor of the occasion; and ceviche is, of course, one of the specialties of the house. Chef Ortega has published several cookbooks, and has been nominated this year by the James Beard Foundation as “2016 Best Chef: Southwest.”

Chefs zarela martinez & aaron sanchez Aaron Sanchez has followed in his mother’s footsteps. She is Zarela Martinez, who was born in Mexico and began her cooking career in Texas. She operated the acclaimed Zarela in New York City from 1987 to 2011. Both mother and son mentored under Chef Paul Prudhomme in New Orleans, and Sanchez began his culinary career helping his mother with her catering business. Sanchez, who was born in El Paso, Texas, was executive chef at both Paladar and Centrico in New York. He is an author

and prolific TV personality on the Food Network, most recognizable as a co-starring judge on the hit show, “Chopped.” In 2014, Sanchez teamed up with fellow James Beard Award winner, Louisiana Chef John Besh, to open Johnny Sanchez in Baltimore -- followed by another in New Orleans. The restaurant is described as a “chic authentic taqueria that embodies the warmth of traditional Mexican cooking with the fun and genuine hospitality of New Orleans.” The menu promises an authentic Mexican experience.

When it comes to ethnic cuisine, Mexican food is one of the tried-and-true winners. If you have a suspicion that your menu is taking a bit of a siesta, perhaps it’s time to change things up with a little fiesta. The next time you tackle menu engineering or just decide it’s time for a bit of tweaking and refreshing, consider adding some of the fabulous specialties that have come out of Mexico. Visit the websites of the restaurants listed here and other successful Mexican concepts, examine the menus and strategize ways that your operation can incorporate Mexican winners into your current offerings. Do not be daunted by stories of the difficulties of preparing mole sauce or ceviche. Start by putting your own trendy spin on the more basic items — such as buffalo burritos with chilis and fresh Mexican cheese; shrimp and heirloom tomato tacos; and sizzling vegetable fajitas with sriracha-spiked polenta. If your customers approve, expand from there. n

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Redefining a Cuisine: MEXICAN FOOD GOES BACK TO BASICS BY MINDY KOLOF

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rom peasant victuals to fast food fave to haute cuisine to ethnic traditional in half a century, Mexican food has never stopped changing. The world of nachos, fajitas and hard shelled tacos is also a world of shrimp cooked in lime and chile, braised chicken with Oaxacan black mole and queso fundido. In 2016, the return to its roots continues to turn the page on the most authentic chapter of all. Mexican cuisine crosses both international borders and state lines, with Cal-Mex’s burritos, New Mexico’s green chilies and Arizona’s bragging rights to birthing the chimichanga. But Texas is indisputably the pivotal player. The Lone Star state earned its own appellation, Tex-Mex, and launched thousands of restaurants. Today, every small town in Texas has at least one Tex-Mex-centric eatery, says Marvin Bendele, executive director of Texas Foodways. “Even in a town of 4,000 people, five or six Tex-Mex restaurants are thriving.” Pioneers like Matt and Janie Martinez (Matt’s El Rancho) and Viola Barrios (Los Barrios) moved the cuisine forward in a country that was neither warm, nor welcoming at the start. Segregation of Mexican-Americans in the early decades of the 20th century was the norm, says Adan Medrano, author of the Truly Texas American cookbook and chronicler of the cuisine’s history. “In San Antonio, Anglos didn’t feel safe coming to the

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barrios, so Otis Farnsworth opened ‘The Original Mexican Restaurant’ in 1900,” he relates. The upscale environment, with men required to wear jackets, and a menu featuring generously laden combination plates, was hugely successful, and duplicated all over the state. By the 1950s, restaurants like Austin’s beloved Matt’s El Rancho were opening their doors, but still finding it a slow start. The Martinez duo worked front- and back-of-the-house tirelessly for decades, growing their 40-seater to a 500-seat venue with 130+ employees. Everything is still cooked from scratch — warm comfort food like cheese enchiladas, stuffed chile relleno and their famous Bob Armstrong dip (a meat, guacamole and chile con queso mix eponymously named after a state representative who requested ‘something different for an appetizer’ back in 1965) are constantly flying out of the kitchen. But grilled gulf snapper, ultra-lite vegetable fajitas and non-GMO corn tortillas are now just as likely to be served up on Matt’s generous plates, belying the common misconception that Tex-Mex can’t be healthy, says General Manager Paul Counter.

following of loyal locals. Now part of a mini-empire of three thriving restaurants run by the family’s next generation, Los Barrios continues to serve up “dishes in the way Mexican moms cook for their families,” says daughter Diana Barrios Trevino. “We use the basics from my mother’s repertoire – classic enchiladas with roasted red pepper sauce and crumbly white Mexican cheese; guacamole made with creamy, buttery Mexican avocados; enchiladas verdes with tomatillo; chicken-fried steak, with fresh squeezed lime juice; a great mole.” Very little has changed on the menu over the years, she says, but they’ve created a chipotle cream sauce and added more shrimp selections and vegetarian enchiladas to the mix in response to customer demand. That she’s getting it exactly right was confirmed by Emeril Lagasse, whose praise serves as the introduction to her bestselling Los Barrios Family Cookbook: “The dishes they have created contain amazing combinations and flavors that many people don’t get to experience. I want the rest of the country to sample what I was tasting. I want people to realize that true Tex-Mex cooking isn’t just fajitas and burritos.”

Another Texas legend, Los Barrios, began modestly on the site of a former Dairy Queen in San Antonio in 1979, when newly widowed Viola Barrios introduced her casero (homestyle) cooking, and quickly built a

Both Matt’s El Rancho and Los Barrios are counted among the many restaurants that champion the roots of Texas Mexican food. Medrano sees a focus on native ingredients like fresh fish, Mexican herbs and


REDEFINING A CUISINE: MEXICAN FOOD GOES BACK TO BASICS

cheeses, Texas pecans; authentic cooking methods that place nuanced flavors over one-note dishes; and an emphasis on texture without high fat. “You’ll find the innovators making their own corn tortillas, baking them, adding a layer of beans – no lard – and roasting slowly to develop the flavor,” he explains. The other big difference is in the enchiladas. “Instead of the focal point being molten cheese, it’s now the dried chiles, and the lovely fresh sauce.” Melissa Abbott, vice president of Culinary Insights at the Hartman Group, is delighted to see the cuisine’s resurgence in the last few years. “Tex-Mex is finally getting the respect it deserves, as people realize that being a hybrid doesn’t make it any less authentic.” The shift from highly processed to thoughtfully sourced ingredients is what makes the cuisine so exciting now, exemplified by places like El Real in Houston and Bar-Ama in Los Angeles, she says. The bold flavor combinations will continue, predicts Ed Avis, publisher of el Restaurante magazine. “Look for Asian-influenced Tex Mex, already happening in southern California, and I think we’ll see that moving east. Think burritos with sweet and sour sauce, tacos with crab, and spring rolls filled with fajita-style chicken.” It’s the natural evolution of this fusion concept that takes on the narrative of its creators, and “makes something

good into something even better,” says Avis. It may well be that the most influential lesson of Mexican cuisine lies in its deep respect for family, for carefully curating ancestors’ treasured recipes to share with customers who are considered honored guests at the table. It’s why Paul Counter doesn’t concern himself with gaining critical acclaim, even for Matt’s enviable TexMex offerings. What he cares about is pleasing the generations of diners who continue to seek out “the type of food you feed your family again and again.” He’s rewarded with an intense customer loyalty unique even among today’s avid foodies. Some of his guests refuse to fly into Austin on a Tuesday, the day the restaurant is closed. “They tell us that a trip to Matt’s El Rancho has to be their first stop when they arrive!” laughs Counter. And it’s why Barrios Trevino has ‘career waiters’ who remember every detail of their customers’ preferences, from the six-year-old boy who likes his tomatoes sliced, not diced, to the grandmother who wants her soup steaming hot. “We’ve had customers who moved away 16 years ago and come back to visit us,” she relates. “Their old waiter came up to them and asked if they wanted their ‘regular.’ They were speechless! Here, our customers are royalty and we’re never going to forget that.”

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A ROMP THROUGH CHILI QUEENS, FAJITA KINGS & THE MIGHTY TACO The Chili Queens

set up shop in the plazas of San Antonio, bringing the first popular Mexican meal into mainstream America. They also serve up tamales and enchiladas, with beans, rice, sour cream and shredded cheese, and set the stage for the classic combo platter.

3500 BC Chiles cultivated in Mexico and Central America, paving the way for salsa and jalapeño poppers.

1870s 1880s Willie Gebhart invents Eagle Chili Powder to give an ‘authentic old Mexico tang’ to any American meal.

Velveeta

Kraft Foods introduces , which becomes the base for chile con queso, the ‘national party dip of Texas.’

Tex-Mex

The first stirrings of , described as an amalgam of Northern Mexican peasant food with Texas farm and cowboy fare. David Pace

Chimichangas

invented at El Charro restaurant in Tucson, Arizona.

1900 1928 1930s 1945·50 1947 Pace Picante Sauce is invented in San Antonio, and quickly gains popularity throughout Texas.

1950s

Glen Bell opens his first

Taco Bell

restaurant in Downey, CA, serving what his customers called "Tay-Kohs."

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San Antonio’s Original Mexican Restaurant becomes the first establishment in Texas to offer authentic Mexican dishes, including ‘The Regular’ - beans, rice and an entrée.

Concepcion “Concha” Sanchez, a native of Guanajuato, Mexico who immigrated to the U.S. in 1912, supports her family by creating a tortilleria, making and selling tortillas in her Ventura County, CA neighborhood. Instead of making them by hand, she uses new electric and gas-fired equipment, grinding corn on an

electric Molino to make masa.

1962

1964

Nachos first served at the State Fair of Texas.


More proof of the mainstreaming of Mexican cuisine: Half of the diners surveyed by the National Restaurant Association report they eat Mexican food at least once a month, placing it in the

top three ethnic cuisines in the U.S.

Steve Ells, a classically trained, Culinary Institute of America graduate, has an ‘aha moment’ at a San Francisco taqueria as he chows down on a burrito with traditional Mexican ingredients, wrapped in foil. He decides to put his own twist on the concept, and opens the

first Chipotle restaurant in Denver, Colorado. Many, many more follow (1,870+ as of June 2015), as the chain’s ‘food with integrity’ goes on to redefine the entire fast-casual dining segment.

2015 2008 1993

Tex-Mex

1969

Latin American cuisines.

1991

1982 1976 1973 1972 Diana Kennedy publishes her highly influential book, The Cuisines of Mexico, and notes a sharp distinction between Mexican food and Tex-Mex.

Sonny Falcon debuts his skirt steak fajitas in Kyle, Texas, becomes known as ‘The Fajita King.’

The Culinary Institute of America opens a new branch campus in San Antonio, offering special expertise in

Says chef Rick Bayless: “The CIA will show the rest of the world the contributions that Latin food can make. It’s wonderful to have a place that respects this cuisine and helps it become woven into the best restaurants in the country.”

Salsa beats out ketchup as the top-selling condiment in the United States.

is first identified as an American regional cuisine in the book Eating in America: a History: “It is native, for it does not exist elsewhere; it was born on this soil,” writes author Waverly Root. “But it is foreign in that its inspiration came from an alien cuisine.”

Sources: Taco USA by Gustavo Arellano, Texas Monthly, Food Timeline, NRA

Nordic Ware debuts the Mexican Kitchen Cookware Set as part of its International Specialties line, developed to meet expanding customer interest in cuisines from different cultures. The set consists of an aluminum tortilla press, a taco maker, and a cup shell former to shape tortillas as they fry.

Fajitas introduced at Ninfa’s in Houston.

At Mariano’s Mexican Cuisine restaurant in Dallas, the first

1971

frozen margarita machine is used.

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BORDER CROSSINGS By Min Casey

The melding of Mexican ingredients and preparations into American restaurants acknowledges the popularity, acceptance and success that south-of-the-border fare has found.

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W

hen chefs reach for a pop of flavor, excitement and creativity, nearly anything from the world’s pantry is fair game. Asian sriracha sauce? Check. Middle Eastern tahini sauce? Check. Chipotle chiles, cilantro, masa harina? Check, check, check! The stream of inspiration and ingredients coming out of Mexico is bountiful and more than ready to mix it up on stateside menus—even at restaurants that serve predominantly American cuisine. “In this business, you give people what they want,” says Allen Strong, owner of Courier Café in Urbana, Ill. The café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with each daypart’s offerings marked by Mexican flavor accents. In the morning, cha-cha-charritos and rancheros rarebit sit side-by-side with omelets and biscuits with gravy while lunchtime has a classic griddled quesadilla keeping company with a ribeye sandwich, Buffalo chicken wrap (spiced, it might be noted, not with the traditional hot sauce but with chipotles) and burgers. Come dinner hour, beer-battered fish tacos with pineapple pico de gallo, red cabbage, chipotle mayo and sour cream join such all-American fare as fried chicken, lasagna and broiled pork tenderloin.

Mexican Pantry

American Applications

Chipotles in adobo sauce Add to mayonnaise, as a spread for avocado toast, in black bean soup

“Mexican items are always popular and they sell well. People like the flavors they deliver and the freshness of the ingredients,” Strong says, adding that guests don’t necessarily think that they are eating Mexican when they order a buenas dias burrito or desert dippers. “Maybe in a Mexican restaurant they would think of it as Mexican food. But here, not really. They think of it as good, interesting food — what they want to eat that day.”

75%

Chorizo Scrambled eggs, on pizza, in mac and cheese

of diners

like it when restaurants with mainstream menus also serve ethnic cuisines.

Churros Ice cream sundaes, banana splits, with caramel dipping sauce

See more on page 60

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Acculturation Irrefutable proof that Americans have fully accepted Mexican food can be found in Taco Bell Arena at Boise State University and the Tostitos Fiesta Bowl. Both examples speak loud and proud about how Mexican food, once categorized as vaguely mysterious, slightly exotic and certainly ethnic, has entirely mainstreamed into the American culinary vernacular. Mexican has joined Italian and Chinese as onceforeign cuisines that have mixed it up so thoroughly in the melting pot that they now are fully part of it. That process began a long time ago, says Ken Albala, professor of history and director of food studies at University of the Pacific, San Francisco. “When people are completely

ignorant of a cuisine as Americans were a long time ago, they think it’s weird and that’s pretty much how they feel about the people whose cuisine it is.” As Latino culture gained a foothold and flourished in the U.S., the cuisine adapted to the environment and the ingredients at hand. At some point, it becomes a little bit cool for Americans to venture outside their comfort zone and dine at a Mexican restaurant. At that point, says Albala, there’s no turning back. “Someone looks at it and thinks, ‘That’s interesting. Let me mass produce it in a way that people will really like it.’ That’s how ethnic cuisines end up in a can or a fast-food restaurant aimed at Anglo audiences,” notes Albala, adding that the trajectory also includes points at which authenticity reenters the picture, directed by

Make it Mexican Most American-focused menus can easily make room for Mexican-inflected offerings. To stoke creative fires, here’s a roundup of ideas that go beyond the expected. For the most part, the ingredients often are already on hand and if not, are easily sourced.

Food Dance Café, Kalamazoo, Mich.

Odd Duck Restaurant, Milwaukee Wisc.

Sweet and spicy flatbread with sweet potatoes pureed with farmhouse cheese, poblano pepperonata, chorizo and Vella Jack cheese

Squash empanada with black-eyed pea salad, avocado, tomato, poblano salsa verde, charred scallion puree and sesame seeds

Bentley’s Grill, Salem, Ore.

209 Bar, Bemidji, Minn.

Baja linguine with tequila-lime butter, pico de gallo and a choice of grilled veggies, chicken or shrimp and topped with Parmesan cheese

Cilantro Green Salad with fresh mixed greens, grilled chicken, avocado, tomato, caramelized onions, black beans, cumin, lime and cilantro vinaigrette

Dizzy’s Gypsy Bistro, Little Rock, Ark.

Bassett Street Brunch Club, Madison, Wisc.

Jorge’s muy caliente farfalle pasta with grilled chicken breast, black and green olives, tomatoes, jalapeños and onion tossed with vodka-spiked tomato cream sauce and garnished with pico de gallo, jalapeños and scallions

Horchata latte with steamed horchata poured through espresso

Chili’s, multiple locations White spinach queso dip with Monterey Jack, house-made pico de gallo, fresh guacamole, queso fresco and cilantro served with tostada chips and salsa

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continued from page 58

cookbook authors, restaurants and a more demanding and food-savvy dining public. “Mexican food in America is at a point at which it is ethnic but it’s also not. It retains its individuality as a cuisine while its ingredients and preparations have been fused into American menus,” says Albala. Demographics also are a factor in the affection. Hispanics constitute approximately 17% of the population of the Unites States and while there are no statistics, it is safe to assume that for many of this group, Mexican food registers not as ethnic but as their primary food affiliation.

Tomatillos Green salsa, chicken chili, pozole, tomatillo Mary cocktail

Con Fusion According to the National Restaurant Association’s (NRA) Restaurant Industry Forecast, consumers are more apt to eat ethnic food when dining out than they are at home, with two-thirds of respondents indicating that to be true. The NRA’s Global Palates: Ethnic Cuisines and Flavors in America survey released last year has more encouraging news. Fully 75% of those surveyed said they like it when restaurants with mainstream menus also serve ethnic cuisines. That truth has not escaped notice of restaurant operators and the trend has become pervasive, spanning all segments of the industry. At Denver’s The Black Pearl, tomatillo Benedict with chili hollandaise appears on a brunch menu that is firmly rooted in American classicism. Along with a smoky beet salad with goat cheese and a grilled endive salad with blue cheese, Wolfert’s Roost in Irvington, N.Y. menus Shishito Caesar, a cross-cultural mix of roasted Shishitos, romaine lettuce, housemade croutons, chipotle-Caesar dressing and cotija cheese. The restaurant also has Bubbe’s Nachos, a Jewish-inflected riff that has a potato latke standing in for the tortilla and braised brisket, apple compote and horseradish cream. California Pizza Kitchen tops one of its flatbreads with spicy fennel sausage and fire-roasted poblano chiles. Even that most American of places, McDonald’s, taps the Mexican-inspired larder with Chipotle Chicken Snack Wraps. “For us, it’s a natural to add these tastes to the menu,” says Courier Café’s Strong. “A lot of our customers have grown up on Mexican food and consider it to be familiar, very much a favorite. To add it to American preparations makes all the sense in the world.”

Salsa/pico de gallo Salad dressings, sandwich topping, omelet filling, garnish for soups

Horchata

Ice cream, tea, latte, cocktails

Perhaps that’s exactly what Applebee’s was thinking when it fused two across-the-border icons for its quesadilla burger, the beef patty jazzed up with Mexi ranch sauce, pico de gallo, bacon, Colby and Jack cheeses, the whole build tucked between griddled flour tortillas. “There are so many ways that Mexican and American foods work together,” says Albala. “Why wouldn’t restaurants exploit that?” n

Tortillas

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Ways to use

AVOCADO to go beyond guacamole From grilling to sauces to cocktails, avocados are super versatile by Ari Bendersky There's no question: Avocados are hot — at least if you judge it by the crazy number of hashtags on Instagram. Earlier this year, there were more than 3.5 million posts with #avocado. People just can't get enough of this healthy, creamy fruit that's rich in good fats and protein. While you generally see it piled beautifully atop rustic bread with pickled onion, sliced cucumber or a fried egg as avocado toast or in a bowl with chunky bits of tomato, cilantro and red onion as guacamole, avocados offer vast versatility.

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"Avocado is so versatile that it's a shame most people only use it one way," said Christopher Holme, sous chef at Charleston, S.C.'s, Slightly North of Broad (or SNOB) restaurant. Holme recently ran an appetizer of sweetbreads with a black bean puree and a lime gastrique. He felt like the dish needed something light and colorful and realized avocado naturally paired well with the beans and citrus. But instead of slicing up the creamy green fruit,

he turned it into a

MOUSSE. "I loved the strong avocado flavor and how it was light and fluffy," Holme said. "It's fun for me to try new things that are traditionally regarded as dessert and make them into a savory item."

With the idea of versatility in mind, Holme went on to use the mousse piped over the top of a grilled baguette and served it with a petite salad. He also said he would stuff avocado with chorizo and queso fresco and bake it until the cheese melts.

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At Spartina in Los Angeles, chef/ owner Stephen Kalt has had a grilled avocado dish on his menu since he opened the hot Fairfax area restaurant in December 2015. Spartina is an Italian restaurant, but gains inspiration from the many ethnicities around L.A. One day, he found a few different types of avocados at the farmers market and starting thinking how he could incorporate different flavors and ingredients to make an interesting dish. The result had Kalt halving an avocado and grilling it flat side down for a couple of minutes then adding a mixture of Moroccan lemon juice, Calabrian chili oil, tomatillo and ricotta salata to finish. He said it's the most popular dish on the menu. "When you get avocado in its correct stage, where it's firm and vegetal with natural fat content, it struck me to mix those things together," Kalt said. "Using the texture of avocado is critical to what makes it special."

Kalt remembers the first time he had avocado that really made him

STAND UP and pay attention. It was 1985 in Marbella in Spain's Costa del Sol. He was served a chilled avocado gazpacho and it blew his mind. To this day, he thinks of that as the perfect summer avocado dish.

"It's chilled soup processed with vinegar and oil," he said. "It's so chilling and cooling and thirst quenching with pieces of diced avocado, chive and cucumber. It's really refreshing." He added that an avocado relish in summer is great to serve alongside grilled fish or meat. "You can also mix it with raw fish to give you a fatty texture against the protein of tuna with other herbs."


WAYS TO USE AVOCADO TO GO BEYOND GUACAMOLE

And Chicago chef Brian Enyart, who along with his wife Jennifer Jones Enyart, opened Dos Urban Cantina after both spent many years working alongside Rick Bayless at Topolobampo, loves guacamole, but feels like there are so many underused methods for avocado.

Don't think you need to stick to food, as avocado mixes well in drinks. Add it to smoothies for a thicker texture, and if you want to take it to the next level,

mix it with

BOOZE. "AVOCADO is nature's cream," Enyart said. "People will add poached or fried eggs for creamy luxury, but avocado is the fruit that can do that. I've got it in a lot of salads. We have it in our chayote dish — it's a great textured Mexican squash, but doesn't have inherent richness. Adding avocado will make it more satisfying."

Tom Schraeder, a bartender at Soho House Chicago, thinks avocado's versatile flavors pair well with tequila, rum and vodka. He plays with classic cocktails and mixes them up. So he will sometimes add avocado in some form to a margarita, mojito or daiquiri.

"There are some ways to not overpower the spirit," Schraeder said. "Avocado water, where you essentially juice it with additional water to be used directly in the drink. Or if you'd like to experiment a bit more, add that water to a whipping canister to make avocado foam. Even an avocado essential oil could work." But sometimes you want to keep things straightforward and simple, and for that, mash up some avocados, add some salt, garlic, heat and cilantro, and mix up a batch of guacamole. There's a reason it continues to be a favorite treat all over. n

Enyart likes combining the fattiness of avocado with the acidity of tomatoes for a nice balanced summer salad, even with corn taken off the cob. But he gets even more creative by pairing it with cacao nibs for a balance with healthy fat and the high acid of the cacao. "You can pair it with bright or dark flavors," he said. "If you wanted to get crazy with it, you could refrigerate the avocado and get it cold, add some granola and cacao nib and think of it as a dessert option."

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are You Get Your Spice On, Because the Evolution is in Full Swing By Mindy Kolof

Tacos are on a streak to the top, elevated from fast food staple to fine dining menus, and gaining a higher profile at every segment in between. Now chefs like Alex Stupak (Empelleon), April Bloomfield (Salvation Taco), and Jean-Georges Vongerichten (ABC Cocina) have joined early advocates like Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill) and Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken (Border Grill). While beer-braised pork tongue tacos a la Chef Stupak may not have achieved mainstream status, the 66 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016

appeal of the taco crosses day parts, courses, venues, cultures, even generations. We’ll explore some boundary pushing taco innovators around the country to learn how you can break into this hard-shelled gem and make it your own. Caleb Bryant, foodservice analyst at Mintel, offered his insights on what’s fueling the rise of the taco. Bolstered by millennials, the foodie movement and a fast-growing Hispanic population, the taco is being deconstructed and reconstructed into a more authentic version of

its-self. “You see it in preparation methods, like slow cooking of meats and use of ethnic spices, and in the popularity of unusual ingredients such as huitlacoche (a corn fungus) and chicharrones (fried pork bits).” Running concurrently, he says, is the international mashup of foods, an opportunity for chefs to take their food heritage and turn familiar cuisines into something new, reflected in the proliferation of Indian, Asian and African taco fusions.


what is a taco?

“What is a taco?” muses Bryant, “but a blank canvas for a chef to show their creativity?” Consider some of these highly individualized takes on the taco:

At Matt’s El Rancho in Austin, Chef Jose A. Hernandez Rico crafted the Asadero Taco, recognized as one of Texas Monthly’s “120 Tacos you must eat before you die.” Affectionately described as “a massive messy masterpiece of griddle-toasted homemade tortilla embracing beef tenderloin chunks with caramelized onions, poblanos, and best of all, a slab of Asadero cheese,” manager Paul Counter regards it as “our latest and most celebrated signature dish.”

At New York City’s Goa Taco, the South African chef who plied his trade in England and Australia before coming to America, infuses the menu with a real international flair. His paratha (Indian flatbread) tacos are as likely to contain spiced duck as chicken chorizo, and featured mashups include a recado rojo lamb shoulder taco with tzatziki and eggplant salsa and a tofu bahn mi taco with shitake mushroom pâté and peanuts.

Kogi BBQ in LA, featuring Korean tacos that launched both the food truck movement and Chef Roy Choi’s career. In Thanksgiving of 2008, Kogi BBQ rolled out as “the little Korean-taco-truck-that-could, peddling $2 Korean barbecue tacos on the streets of LA, setting off a flavor bomb that would shake up the foundations of the industry so that street food would never be looked at the same way,” according to the website, which is a rare case of hype living up to reality. Industry critics, devoted foodies, natives and tourists alike obsessively followed the food truck for the chance to snag the now-iconic short rib tacos — two crisp corn tortillas, doublecaramelized Korean barbecue, salsa roja, cilantro-onion-lime relish and a Napa Romaine slaw tossed in a chili-soy vinaigrette. This year, Kogi BBQ moved into its first brick and mortar home in LA, called Kogi Taqueria.

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The North African taco is making its mark, thanks to chef Farid Zadi and wife Susan Park’s quick-serve Revolutionario. When the North African tacqueria started as a pop-up several years ago, the lines were already forming, and in 2015, they moved to a permanent location near the University of Southern California. The fusion makes sense historically, according to Zadi, because the Moors from North Africa ruled Spain for over 700 years, resulting in many Moorish influences in Latin American cuisines. “North Africans also absorbed ingredients that are native to Latin America into their cooking. Examples are chiles and tomatoes. There's been back and forth for a very long time so the flavors in the cuisines marry well,” says Zadi. Tacos with smoked lamb and tagine style toppings, or with seasonal vegetables, or falafel-style are sold by the thousands each week. Wait, falafels are North African? “Not really unless you count Egypt,” says Zadi, “but we make it with a blend of chickpeas, black eyed-peas and ras el hanout (a North African spice blend that contains abundant herbs, onions, green onions and garlic).”

The takeaway: you don’t need a big name to get a taco on your menu, just a willingness to try some big flavors. Even if you’re in a city like Chicago or LA, with literally thousands of choices from high end to casual taqueria, Bryant recommends hosting a fun event like a Taco Tuesday. In a more rural area or one without a strong Hispanic population, “you can do well to launch or enhance an authentic taco offering, using slow cooking methods, Mexican cheeses and corn tortillas.”

TRENDING UP

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tacos of all types ll Top tacos…beef and chicken are old standards, and pork (carnitas) and seafood tacos are coming on strong. Corn-based tortillas are in vogue both for their air of authenticity and gluten-free attribute. ll Best way to start the day…a breakfast taco. While breakfast burritos may beat out the taco for portability, it’s not stopping restaurateurs from offering a wide variety of offerings to the morning crowd. At Tacodeli in Austin, for instance, 10 types of breakfast tacos are daily bestsellers, including the Migas, a traditional breakfast dish of fried corn tortilla strips, scrambled eggs and cheese; El Popeye, with scrambled eggs, queso fresco and of course, spinach; and the Vaquero, featuring eggs, grilled corn, roasted peppers and Jack cheese. ll Growing inside…a 36% increase in ingredients goes well beyond beef, lettuce and onion to more complex add-ins like Chihuahua cheese and salsa roja. ll And out…tacos are up 25% on menus since 2012. ll With more to come…more than 60% of consumers say authentic ethnic foods and ingredients will entice them to order new menu items, according to Mintel. n

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don't fear the heat SAUCES AND SALSAS CONTINUE TO DIVERSIFY IN SPICE & FLAVOR by Ari Bendersky

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If you can stand the heat, then get it into the kitchen. Why? With the emergence of interest in Mexican flavors, more and more Americans are looking for spice in their food. A 2015 study by Nation's Restaurant News showed that of those polled, 50 percent eat Mexican food at least once a month.

While the more than 2,000 Chipotle locations around the country may have helped get more people eating burrito bowls, that doesn't even put a dent in the influence Mexican restaurants have on American culture. As of 2014, there were more than 54,000 Mexican restaurants throughout America. But while some may think Tex-Mex is typical Mexican fare, it's just the tip of the iceberg. "Mexican food is not all fried, fatty or spicy," said chef Victor Palma, executive chef of the Rosewood Hotel in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. "It's what you get in the small markets or if somebody invites you home for a meal. We're giving nice presentation and more organic ingredients. We take things from our history, with high-quality products. That's why now Mexican food is getting more success every day." And at the core of Mexican food: chiles. Mexican cooks, whether in a restaurant or at home, use a variety of both fresh and dried chiles in numerous dishes and especially in their sauces, or salsas. For the most part, every restaurant and taqueria has its own salsa, Palma said, and you use different chiles to make different salsas for different dishes. "We have a trio of salsas," he said. "We do different levels of spice and have like 10 different salsas. We have habanero, jalapeño, Serrano, different dried chiles, moles, adobo. If you're doing al pastor tacos, the salsa is with dried guajillo chiles. Green tomatillo is one of the most popular salsas in Mexico."

Palma added that even though many Americans preparing Mexican food know the more common ingredients like chipotle peppers, which are actually just dried jalapeño peppers, he uses ingredients that likely haven't made their way to America yet. He loves substituting the juice from xoconostle, the fruit of the Nopal cactus, for lime juice when making pico de gallo or other salsas. Xoconostle, pronounced choko-nos-leh, looks like prickly pear and has a sour, acidic taste. Palma uses it to make jam, salsa and even adds it to guacamole. At Los Chingones in Denver, chef/owner Troy Guard offers his guests a variety of salsas on his menu because "some people like sweeter, some like spicier, some like earthier so we change it up to accommodate their tastes," he said. Los Chingones has six salsas on its menu — the Rooster house salsa, chilepasilla lime, chipotle pineapple, guajillo, tomatillo and a fiery-hot habanero. Customers receive a free Rooster salsa and chips when they sit, but if they want more or any other flavor, it costs $1.50. Some people balk at the idea of having to pay for salsa at a Mexican restaurant, but it makes sense. "It costs the restaurant money to fry the tortillas, to buy the local ingredients and to make the salsa," Guard added. "And the salsas are made fresh daily in-house." Guard and his crew make all their salsas and it's not hard. If you don't want to take the time to chop all the ingredients, he said you can easily toss everything into a blender to make a salsa.

Mexican sauces and flavors don't have to just go with Mexican food either. Drew Davis, the executive chef and COO of Chicago-based Eastman Egg Company, adds Mexican flavors to a few of his made-to-order, egg-based breakfast sandwiches. Davis makes a sweet chili sauce for the namesake sandwich with a farm egg, Slagel Farm ham, Egmont cheese and cucumber on ciabatta; and uses a salsa verde on the Crown with chorizo, Egmont cheese, avocado and the farm egg. But when it comes to breakfast sandwiches, are people thinking about Mexican flavors and sauces? "One of the big things we're dedicated to is helping people rethink breakfast," Davis said. "Our goal is to bring in those flavors without being too aggressive or reaching too hard. The flavors pair really well with eggs." The beauty of all the different flavors from Mexico that you use in sauces for larger plates is how diverse they are and in how many directions you can take them. "Whether it's bitter, acid, sweet or heat there's a ton of variety represented in Mexico," Davis said. "Mexican cuisine uses a lot of different cooking techniques pretty organically. You can do salsa fresh, steamed, fire roasted and more. You can alter ingredients — it's like a NFL playbook and there are endless variations you can tinker with and choose from." n

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Corn has been found among foodstuffs as old as 9,000 years in an area of southern Mexico. The grandmother of all maize was a Mexican grass called "teosinte."

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AMAZING by Mary Daggett

Inhabitants of the Americas have enjoyed the benefits of maize, a.k.a. corn, for millennia. Where did this amazing grain originate? Scientists have conducted much research to trace its roots, and have shown unequivocally that corn was domesticated in Mexico by early ancestors of the Aztecs and other indigenous peoples. Archaeologists exploring human settlements dating from at least 9,000 years ago showed the presence of corn among the foodstuffs unearthed in an area of southern Mexico. Reinhart contacted Dr. John Doebley, a botanical geneticist at the University of Wisconsin, who, along with other scientists, was instrumental in proving the genesis of corn domestication. Using DNA analysis, Dr. Doebley and his peers were able to provide strong proof that the grandmother of all maize

was a Mexican grass called teosinte. “Prehistoric people used selective breeding processes to cultivate the desired characteristics of teosinte into what eventually became today’s corn, much the same as wolves were selectively bred to become today’s dog breeds,” said Dr. Doebley. “Corn has been as important a food staple to the people of the American continents as rice has been to the civilizations of Asia.” The value of corn in terms of global benefit is difficult to quantify. Suffice it to say that its value has been immense. Talk about sustainability! Corn has thrived since antiquity as a valuable, versatile cereal grain that is also categorized as a vegetable and a fruit. Humans have long harvested and harnessed corn for myriad applications, including food, spirits, oils and more recently, as fuel in the form of ethanol. According to the

Iowa Corn Growers Association, a typical grocery store sells about 4,000 products that contain corn in some form. It’s used in everything from baby food to shampoo. Corn has a solid nutritional profile (see http:// nutritiondata.com for USDA nutrient database), and is low in fat. Masa is the term for flour made from corn. It is the basis for tortillas, taco shells, corn chips and countless other products. Today’s foodservice industry employs a giant cornucopia of menu items that wouldn’t exist if not for corn. Think of a culinary world without tortillas, tacos, tostadas, empanadas, enchiladas, tamales, polenta, corn bread, corn chowder, corn chips and even those cute miniature cobs of corn used in many Asian dishes. Read on to see where corn is cropping up on menus across the country.

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Amazing Maize

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Fresh Corn Grill has two locations near Los Angeles. One of its signature items is the Fresh Corn Grilled Salad, a colorful composed dish of grilled corn, asparagus and zucchini with tomatoes and avocados, served on a bed of mixed greens with vinaigrette dressing. Diners can opt to add grilled chicken, salmon, steak or shrimp.

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Frontera Grill in Chicago accompanies Carne Asada Brava (habanero marinated flank steak) with roasted tomato Salsa Huevona and sweet corn tamales.

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Union Square Café, Danny Meyer’s 30-yearold favorite in New York City, has long offered an incomparable side dish, Anton Mills Polenta. The creamy polenta is laced with Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts.

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Giada’s Restaurant in the Cromwell in Las Vegas garners raves for a popular side dish, Sweet Corn with Spicy Sausage.

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Border Grill in Los Angeles (and other locations) serves Chicken Poblano Enchiladas, with handmade corn tortillas, roasted chicken, poblano crema, grilled corn, wild mushrooms and charred poblano chiles.

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Johnny Sanchez, the John Besh/Aaron Sanchez collaboration with locations in Baltimore and New Orleans has Steamed Masa Cake for dessert. It’s flavored with citrus, buttermilk and sweet corn. n

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Each year, Americans eagerly anticipate fresh sweet corn season. Local farmers markets are a great source for this people pleaser. Many chefs roast sweet corn while still in the husks (corn silk removed) for an appealing side dish. An interesting and delicious serving technique is grilled sweet corn with flavored butters. The Weber Grill website has recipes for Grilled Sweet Corn Three Ways, which includes versions with Chipotle Lime Butter; Smoked Paprika Pimiento and Chive Butter; and Mixed Herbs, Parmesan and Lemon Butter. The URL is www.weber.com


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FFO OO POO DDE R&& ABB ETE VVIE E ROR AANGGES E

Hispanic Fusion Flavors

Hispanic food—from Mexican quesadillas to Cuban pressed sandwiches—is technically an ethnic foodservice category, but because we’ve embraced these dishes for so many years, they don’t seem foreign…in fact they feel American. Generations ago, immigrant restaurateurs brought their authentic dishes to this country, yet along the way they morphed into something entirely unique to the U.S. Think breakfast burritos or hard-shell tacos. Fajitas or chili con queso. And while most of these fusions are delicious and craved by millions of customers, much of the nutritional value was left back in the kitchens of their home countries. Old-school nachos piled high with fatty refried beans, ground beef, and melted yellow cheese were ripe for a makeover. Ditto the soupy, mayonnaise-avocado concoction some call guacamole.

MARKON FIRST CROP

DID YOU KNOW

USAGE TIP

BENEFITS

PREPARE

PAIR WITH:

RED ONIONS

MARKON FIRST CROP

RED & YELLOW BELL PEPPERS

READY-SET-SERVE

PURE AVOCADO PULP

Avocados, cilantro, corn, garlic, pork, and raw tomatoes.

Epazote, flour tortillas, grilled beef, herbed rice, and onions.

Crab, eggs, lime juice, pineapples, quinoa, and romaine lettuce.

Pickle and use as garnishes on ceviche, conchinita pibil, and pozole; serve raw in salsas and pico de gallo; grill and use in salads and tacos.

Char over an open flame, peel skins and serve with grilled meats; stew with garlic and chicken thighs; roast and purée— add to gazpacho and summer soups.

Blend with RSS Urban Blend, RSS Pineapple Chunks, and RSS Proprietary Blend Orange Juice for a vitamin-rich smoothie; add to dips like hummus or creamed spinach; mix into salad dressings for a creamy component.

Red onions are an excellent source of quercetin, a bioflavonoid that can help reduce free radicals in the body, chromium that helps control glucose levels, and allicin that is said to promote cardiovascular health.

Red bell peppers are powerhouses of vitamin C, which is important in fueling the immune system and vitamin E, which keeps hair and skin youthful. Not to mention their high beta-carotene and lutein levels that help maintain eye health.

Avocados are loaded with heart-healthy monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acids) shown to reduce inflammation and have positive effects on the genes linked to cancer.

Create bar snacks by stuffing fried plantains with carnitas, pickled red onions, and fresh cilantro.

Skip lard-laden refried pinto beans and top nacho chips with healthier black beans, diced avocado, chopped tomatoes, roasted red and yellow bell peppers, and crumbled queso fresco.

Stir together RSS Pure Avocado Pulp, lime juice, cumin, salt and pepper. Add pomegranate seeds for citrusy flavor and texture contrast.

Onions are related to asparagus, chives, Easter lilies, garlic, leeks, and shallots. They were thought to be a powerful medicine during the Civil War—General Ulysses S. Grant made sure his army always had a large supply on hand.

Although they are now grown all over the world, bell peppers are native to Mexico and South America. They were spread to the rest of the world by Spanish and Portuguese explorers during 16th and 17th centuries.

Cinco de Mayo and the Super Bowl compete with each other for the days when most avocados are consumed. They also contain more potassium than bananas!


Today’s diners are savvier than ever—most say they want menus that offer more nutritious choices. That’s why a healthier, more produce-centric revolution is taking place—one that is being driven by the rising food force known as the Millennials. This influential generation demands more flavor-focused foods that incorporate on-trend ingredients so chefs are getting creative with ingredients that lend texture, color, and balance to many classic recipes. n

READY-SET-SERVE

READY-SET-SERVE

ROMAINE RIBBONS

SHREDDED KALE Servings: 4

Jalapeño chile peppers, lemon juice, olives, pomegranate seeds, and tuna.

Chickpeas, queso fresco, roasted cauliflower, sour cream, and sweet potatoes.

Add deeper color and flavor to burritos, fajitas, and tacos; toss with avocado dressing, tomatoes, and watermelon radishes for a vibrant salad; layer with beans, beef, cheese, and sour cream for a sharable entrée.

Toss with lime juice and chili powder— roast until crisp; substitute kale for lettuce on tacos and tostadas; sauté and stuff in burritos and enchiladas.

Romaine is actually 17% protein! Far from being nutritionally void, it also contains vitamin K, calcium, omega-3s, and more vitamin A than a carrot.

High in fiber with zero fat, kale is also concentrated in vitamins A and K, as well as iron.

Modernize taco salads by offering meat substitutes like tofu and tempeh; layer with tomatoes, avocado chunks, sour cream, romaine, and shredded cheese.

Add shredded kale and radicchio to quesadillas for a balance of nutty cheese and bitter greens.

Romaine is low in oxalic acid— making it a good leafy green choice for those with kidney stone problems.

Kale has more vitamin C than an orange. And cooking it doesn’t diminish its nutritional value.

Black Bean Nachos

For this recipe and more go to rfsdelivers.com or scan the QR code below.

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Poké Makes a Move Into Fast Casual A healthy Hawaiian staple is moving across the mainland By Ari Bendersky

I

s there any limit to the ways we can put food on a line and create a movement? No, we’re not talking an old school cafeteria, but taking seemingly healthy ingredients and putting them behind glass for people to make their own quick-serve, customizable lunch or dinner. It all started when Chipotle brought Mexican food — burritos, bowls and more — to the masses and was quickly followed by toasted sub sandwiches (Potbelly Sandwich Shop), Mediterranean (Roti Mediterranean Grill), salads and grain bowls (Sweetgreen), Pizza (Blaze Pizza), 78 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016

Indian (SF’s Tava Indian Kitchen and New York’s IndiKitch) and Southeast Asian (ShopHouse, which is a concept that was introduced by Chipotle). Is poké now the next hot trend to make its way across the country? Poké, which means “to cut, dice or section,” traditionally, was a fast and casual

raw fish salad Hawaiian fisherman would make by dicing portions of their fresh catch — usually tuna — into cubes, seasoning it with ingredients like Hawaiian sea salt, seaweed, green onions, sesame oil and soy sauce. “To be frank, many of the places currently calling themselves “poké” shops are technically more like ‘make your own sushi bowl’ concepts,” said chef and former Top Chef contestant Lee Anne Wong, who is opening Sweetcatch Poké in New York with chef Deuki Hong and Circle Hospitality Group. “There’s a small hotbed of debate here in Hawaii [where Wong has been living] about all the poké that is happening on the mainland. What is


poké? What are traditional styles? At what point it is no longer considered poké?” Poké restaurants have started springing up in Chicago, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego and elsewhere along the West Coast. No one company has yet had a growth spurt like Potbelly or Chipotle, but it could be on the way. Consumers are increasingly busy and want a quick, flavor-filled meal option between work and the craziness of their day. “Poké was this quick grab-and-go item so it makes sense to ‘mainland it a bit’ if you will and elevate it to where you’re adding more inspired flavors and sauces,” said Zach Friedlander,

to grow and catch on across America. As it has gained popularity, poké has become a more versatile dish with people using different types of seafood like salmon, octopus and shrimp; meat like chicken and beef; tofu and even fruit like mango. Pokéworks currently has locations in New York and Mountain View, Calif., and is planning additional spots in southern and northern California and Seattle. It offers poké in bowls, salads and in wraps as a burrito. Customers choose their base then add a protein like ahi tuna, salmon, seared albacore, organic tofu or sous vide shrimp, scallops or chicken. Different mix-ins like blanched kale, diced mango and

“Almost every concept I’ve looked at the fish is all priced the same,” Wong said. “I’m sorry, but ahi, albacore, salmon and octopus can’t all be $8.95 for a small size and $12.95 for large. It’s ludicrous [to think] there’s an endless supply of the three or four varieties that are your main players. Our poké will be priced at market price per pound. My question to the customer is, ‘Why do you want to pay as little money as possible to put raw fish into your body? Do you know where that seafood came from?’” No matter if you serve poké traditionally as diced tuna with soy and sesame in a bowl or wrap octopus or chicken in a burrito with a spicy

“Poké fulfills that gap of a healthy alternative to eating fast.” – Chef Rodelio Aglibot, FireFin Poké Shop, Chicago

who opened Aloha Poké in Chicago’s French Market in early 2016. “People working 9-to-5 need that lunchtime fuel. Many fast-casual places are inand-out in 20 to 30 minutes depending on lines. So keep it under 90 seconds a customer [in line] and be efficient.” In addition to speed, people are also looking to eat healthier and poké can deliver on that. “Poké fulfills that gap of a healthy alternative to eating fast,” said chef Rodelio Aglibot, who is opening FireFin Poké Shop in Chicago. “We’re not frying, there’s minimal oil, we’re not processing anything. People want to eat healthy, but also feel they experienced something.” While Wong pointed out that most of the poké you see on the mainland might not read “traditional,” the dish needs to deliver on various levels for it

edamame along with flavors like sriracha aioli, spicy ginger or umami shoyu round things out before different toppings and crunchy items finish it off. “You can diversify with many flavors,” said Kevin Hsu, Pokéworks’ managing partner. “We wanted to provide a concept that’s more conveyed toward the mainland audience. We saw that diners like to have freedom and control as they’re building the food they like to eat, but also keeping it along a single concept, like Chipotle.”

mayo, the bottom line is consumers are hungry for even more fast, healthy alternatives. “Poké is delicious,” Wong added. “Millions of Hawaiians generations deep can’t be wrong.” And plenty of restaurants popping up are betting on that. n

One thing to consider is the freshness of the fish. Since we’re talking raw fish in many cases, it has to be of the highest quality. And that could also affect your price. The laws of supply and demand come into play here and you also don’t want to use an inferior product just to meet your bottom line or keep things in line with your brand concept.

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h ot d e r

chili peppers ne

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by Mary Daggett


Chili peppers are the exclamation point in many of the most renowned Mexican cuisine stars, which is not surprising since almost all types had their genesis in Mexico. Now, they are prized, grown and used liberally all over the world. Some varieties of these little hotties can actually add mild, subtle flavor; and others go off on the palate like a firecracker. While some like them hot, other chili lovers prefer the slow smolder of milder pepper varieties. The heat stimulating chemical in chili peppers is called capsaicin. Naturally, some peppers have higher levels of capsaicin than others. Chili pepper “heat” is measured by an index called “Scoville units.” The higher the units, the hotter the pepper.

How does an operator not familiar with the different varieties make choices for different applications? First and foremost, consider your demographics. It is likely that older diners and children would not appreciate super-hot tamales. Hispanics and Asians are more used to the robust heat in their respective cuisines, and can handle their Habaneros. One of the best ways to educate yourself on chilies is to talk with the growers, whether at farmers markets or on a scheduled visit to a local farm. Or, let your fingers do the walking online.

Here are some of the basics:

Jalapeno

Chipotle

Habanero

Serrano

This variety is likely the most familiar in the United States. Jalapeños are a bright, shiny green, and resemble a tiny closed umbrella, with a wider stem end that tapers to the tip. Some Jalapeños are quite hot, while others have been bred with less heat for salsas and for use whole as stuffed appetizers.

This is the name given to Jalapeño peppers that have ripened until red, dried and smoked.

Primarily grown in the Yucatan Peninsula, this variety is one of the hottest, and provides a complex flavor. It’s a good idea to start with a just a small amount, and add more until just the desired punch is achieved. Habaneros are usually the main ingredient in hot sauces.

Shaped like a little shiny green torpedo, and just as likely to cause an explosion, these skinny, shiny beauties are hotter than jalapeños, but have a pleasing grassy flavor undertone. Use them in guacamoles, salsas and other dishes where considerable heat is desired. Traditionally, Serranos are used in pico de gallo.

Poblano

Ancho

Anaheim

Pasilla

One of the larger and milder varieties, Poblanos are perfect for stuffing, breading and deep frying. They are a shiny dark green and some resemble hearts. While bitter when raw, roasting brings out their sweetness. Poblanos are excellent in mole sauces.

When Poblanos are ripened to red and dried, they are called Ancho chilies.

Also known as California, New Mexico and Magdalena, Anaheim chilies are usually quite mild. They are a shiny grass green, long and narrow, and the basis for chili rellenos. They are the perfect choice for mild salsas.

Although Pasillas are eight to ten inches long, the name means “little raisin” because of their dark wrinkled appearance. This pepper is the dried version of the chilaca pepper and compliments fruits, duck and seafood. n

IMPORTANT NOTE: When working with chili peppers, it’s advisable to wear gloves to protect skin, and to wash hands immediately before touching the face and especially eyes. SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 81


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“Food of the Gods” by Mary Daggett

The ancient Mayans considered chocolate as the “food of the gods.” Luckily, today it is a more earthly delight, readily available to us mortals. While about three-fourths of the world’s cacao beans are now produced in Africa, Mexico was the cradle of chocolate civilization. Cacao trees have grown in profusion over the ages in areas of Mexico and Central America. The Aztecs and Mayans figured out how to process cacao beans into a bitter drink believed to possess nearmystical properties. Spanish conquistadors took note of the fact that Aztec Emperor Montezuma was served this strange brew in cups of pure gold, and that cacao beans were considered so valuable they were used as currency. Sensing their value, explorers carried the beans back to the Old World. Eventually, Europeans added sugar and other refinements to the mix, and one of the most palatepleasing flavors and enduring culinary sweet spots was born. 82 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016


A writer could run amok with superlatives when describing chocolate, so let’s just cut to the chase. Chocolate is big business.

Let’s eavesdrop on some impressive chocolate goodies on dessert menus across the nation: At Iron Chef Michael Symon’s Lola in downtown Cleveland, a fresh take on tiramisu layers sponge cake with mascarpone mousse, milk chocolate ganache and Kahlua gelee. It’s served with cinnamon ice cream.

THIS YEAR, THE GLOBAL CHOCOLATE MARKET IS EXPECTED TO REACH

$

98.3 BILLION

Tony’s in Houston features a Tuxedo Cake of devil’s food, mascarpone, chocolate mousse and toffee bar topping.

This year, the global chocolate market is expected to reach $98.3 billion. This fact should impress foodservice industry bean counters. According to research conducted by the National Confectioners Association, when people are asked to name their favorite flavor, over 50 percent respond with “chocolate.” Consider sweetening your bottom line by taking a bite out of the chocolate pie chart. The National Restaurant Association What’s Hot 2016 Culinary Forecast lists “house-made and artisan ice creams” and “bite-size mini desserts” as Nos. 1 and 2 in the dessert category. Operators can easily combine the two trends. How about pairing layers of fine quality chocolate ice cream with chocolate cake chunks in tall shot glasses. Garnish the tops with a dollop of whipped cream and chocolate shavings or sprinkles and a perfect raspberry. Tiny teaspoons are also required for this pint-sized trifle. A pan of economical brownies or chocolate sheet cake can easily be elevated into triple chocolate petit fours. Simply cut into small squares, cover with chocolate ganache and garnish with your logo or monogram in melted white chocolate. Arrange two petit fours on a plate with a small scoop of chocolate ice cream for an easy signature dessert that will delight guests of all ages. For added impact, drizzle hot fudge sauce along the plate rim and add color contrast with mint leaves and a plump strawberry.

Brennan’s in New Orleans is known for its desserts. The Black Forest Cake is layered with dark chocolate mousse, chocolate ganache and bing cherry ice cream. Balthazar, the authentic French bistro in New York City offers a Warm Chocolate Cake with white chocolate ice cream and Chocolate Pot de Crème with toasted almond cookies.

Ole Mole

Any article devoted to chocolate would be remiss if it did not mention the savory side of chocolate. Most notable, of course, is mole sauce. In Mexican cuisine, mole sauce brings a unique flavor profile and point of difference to many authentic dishes. Acenar on the River Walk in San Antonio presents grilled Adobo Pork Tenderloin with Mole Guerroro and Mole Verde; and Enchiladas de Mole, chicken-filled tortillas served with Mole de Poblano and Chihuahua cheese. n

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A classic Margarita is a delicious cocktail and one of the simplest drinks to make. Three ingredients—tequila, freshly squeezed lime juice and agave syrup—are the key to Mexico’s most popular alcoholic creation, but according to mixology experts, the average person isn’t exposed to Mexican-style cocktails beyond the Margarita. There are a number of reasons why this happens, but it’s up to the bartender to introduce customers to something completely new. David Ravandi, founder of ultra-premium 123 Organic Tequila, urges those behind the bar to experiment as much as possible.

Mexica

n-style Cocktails

Beyond

Margaritas From The Paloma To ReºImagined Classic American Tipples

“I personally find blanco tequilas to work very well in place of gins or vodkas, and reposado and añejos in place of rums or whiskies,” he says. “As with any spirit, trial and error play a role in the final product, but we shouldn't be scared of thinking outside the box when it comes to playing with tequila.” He believes his brand translates well when creating all sorts of cocktails because they’re aged in new American oak, which features vanilla and spice notes and a level of complexity. Those characteristics are generally not found in most tequilas, which are typically aged in bourbon barrels.

by Audarshia Townsend

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B E V E R A G E Tequila is such an important spirit now, he continues, that every cocktailfocused establishment should offer it in some form. The key to doing it correctly, of course, is education. “I think restaurants that offer tequila tastings to their customers and staffers to better educate them are a fantastic idea and tool,” he says. “The more we educate and learn about tequila, the more we can grow this into a respected spirt category.” Mezcaleria Las Flores’ Jay Schroeder says that one of the reasons why there is such a lack of knowledge about tequila-based cocktails is because tequila came to the United States long after the cocktail renaissance was over.

salted rim and one of the few tequilas on premises. At Masa y Agave in New York’s hip TriBeca neighborhood, John McCarthy doesn’t mince words when he’s trying to get patrons beyond drinking Margaritas. “I simply say to them: ‘Here’s my margarita list,’ then give them a smaller list and then tell them: ‘This is what I think you should be drinking.’” McCarthy is Masa y Agave’s cocktail director and he also considers himself an agave spirits expert. While his attempts to get staunch Margarita fans drinking something different are sometimes futile, at least they’ve moved beyond the cheesy renditions of the past, he says.

Tequila is such an important spirit now .... every cocktail-focused establishment should offer it in some form.

“It came onto the American scene in full force in the 1940s, and the renaissance took place in the 1930s and before, which is why bartenders have to get more inventive when it comes to agave spirit cocktails,” he says. He’s a true believer of swapping out whiskey for aged tequila in his Old Fashioned or Manhattan when he’s feeling festive.

The mezcal-focused cocktail menu at his Chicago hot spot, in fact, is burning up the Logan Square neighborhood. Mezcaleria Las Flores’ drinks, while innovative and esoteric with offbeat ingredients such as nutmeg oil and chile Tajin, introduce imbibers to the smoky agave spirit with much enthusiasm. There’s no intimidation factor here as cocktails are presented in unique fashion, in diminutive clay cups and unique glasswear. But tequila enthusiasts will find only one tequilabased drink on the menu, and while it’s likely to be original, don’t be surprised if the Paloma makes an appearance. Schroeder says his would be made with high-quality grapefruit soda, honey, a

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“I think for the longest time frozen margaritas with the sour mix were all we knew about tequila cocktails, but thankfully that mindset has changed,” he adds. “Even now at my fancy, underground New York City cocktail lounge I have to ensure customers that I am not using sour mix — that (my drinks are made with) fresh lime juice I made today.” McCarthy works in many creative ways to get people drinking out of their comfort zones. His signature cocktails, which are always seasonal, are sometimes offered on draft. Customers find that intriguing. He also chats up his latest discoveries, such as an agave spirit called raicilla out of the southwestern portion of the Mexican state of Jalisco. It pre-dates the arrival of Hispanic people in the country, and he uses it to make a different riff of the Negroni. And, of course, he recommends guests to order one of six agave flights, so they can learn about the spirits at their own pace. n


5Liquors Every Restaurant Needs Behind the Bar by Audarshia Townsend

Stocking the bar is a tricky task. You’ll always feel as though you’ve left out something essential, so you might find yourself overcompensating with more product than you’ll ever need. And let’s be honest: Most of it sits collecting dust anyway. So, to help you avoid clutter, we turned to two mixology experts for their advice on five liquors every restaurant needs to stock.

At Masa y Agave in New York’s hip TriBeca neighborhood, John McCarthy is the beverage director. While his focus at the Mexican-inspired cocktail lounge is agave spirits, he offers sound advice with his overall top selections: Gin: Don’t forget London Dry, Old Tom and all the new American gins. Rum: With rum, you’ve got to have light rum and dark rum. And that’s not even talking regionally, whether it’s South American rum, Caribbean rum or American. Tequila: With tequila, it has to be blue agave. But then you need blanco, reposado and anejo. Staff training is essential with all spirits because as they become more complex and diverse, their versatility increases. Every Thursday we have a different rep come in to lead the staff in tasting mezcals or tequila brands. That’s so the entire staff has heard about the product, tasted it and seen it. They’ll then be able to communicate that effectively to the guest. Vodka: When it comes to vodka, I believe it should always be Polish. Whiskey: Within the whiskey category, you’ve got to include rye, bourbon, Irish and Scotch.

For Caroline Galzin, Nicky’s Coal Fired will be the second project she’s built in Nashville with husband Tony, who will also act as executive chef. It’ll open this fall with a coalfire pizza oven cranking out cracker-crust pizzas, plus wood-fired seafood and steak entrées. As managing partner, one of her duties will be to oversee the beverage program. She’s already set her sights on what the top spirits will be behind the bar:

Campari: It is a personal favorite of mine. It has a ton of applications for craft cocktails that you can mix with a lot of different stuff and it tastes really great. I just love the bitterness of Campari. It’s a perfect aperitif and I always want to drink it before or after dinner.

Amaro: It’s a really delicious ingredient that’s good to drink on its own. I personally love to use amaro in place of vermouth in cocktails such as the Manhattan, Negroni or Old Fashioned. It adds more complexity to the drink.

Vermouth: I really like Carpano Antica (in this category). Vermouth is in classic cocktails for a reason. They’re supposed to add a very specific flavor.

Scotch: Bourbon and rye are so popular, and scotch sometimes gets overlooked. There are so many good and interesting scotch brands out there. Investigate!

Vodka: It’s not the trendiest thing, but every bar needs to offer one good vodka that people have heard of. You don’t need all name brands, but it’s important to make all your guests feel comfortable. n

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Mezcal is Having a Moment, But Don’t Count Tequila Out Just Yet By Audarshia Townsend

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o other spirit in the world is enjoying a resurgence quite like mezcal, the agave-based booze from Mexico. Known as tequila’s predecessor, the smoky, rustic and mysteriously sexy liquor has been around for more than 400 years, but never got its due. Until now. From coast to coast, mezcalerias, or places specializing in the spirit, have been popping up in recent years. In Los Angeles, there’s Las Perlas, which opened in 2010 and is considered the country’s first-ever mezcal cocktail lounge. New York boasts Masa y Agave in the trendy TriBeca neighborhood. And in 2016 alone, four prominent mezcal bars debuted (editor’s note: all will be open by press time) in Chicago: Broken English Taco Pub, Leña Brava, Mezcal Lounge and Mezcaleria Las Flores.

to paint with broad strokes and then define from there.

A concept by former Rick Bayless acolyte Jay Schroeder, Mezcaleria Las Flores features one of the most extensive mezcal collections in the country. You’ll find only one tequila cocktail on the menu, and that’s because Schroeder wants to celebrate mezcal in all its glory.

Tequila’s surge in popularity, he continues, is due to more corporate backing while mezcal has always been more of a grassroots effort. “The producers of tequila also had more workforce behind them to produce the spirit at a larger pace,” he says. “Mezcal is produced with rustic equipment in a rustic way” for small-batch productions.

To better educate staffers on the differences

David Ravandi, founder of 123 Organic Tequila, says that it was only a matter of time before consumers rediscovered mezcal. Ultra-premium tequila brands such as his had been growing in popularity for a number of years, while mezcal had maintained somewhat of a cult status.

result in different flavor profiles just as

“There are enough tequila bars around,” he says. “By being a very specialized place (for mezcal), we will get people to pay attention to this program. We’re kind of forcing people’s hand at that. The presentations are also over the top.” But back to mezcal. Schroeder says that to discovered the spirit from tequila, it’s best

“They’re both more or less the same thing and made in the same way,” he explains. “Every single turning point for tequila goes to the right for industrialization, towards commercialization, towards the path of cleanliness, palatability and efficient production, whereas mezcal veers to the left with rusticity, bolder flavors and bigger, broader flavor profiles.”

“Once consumers discovered sipping tequilas like anejo, and anejo was as enjoyable as any fine, aged brown spirit, they embraced those styles, which extended awareness of the category considerably,” explains Ravandi. “Until the last decade, mezcal hadn’t been widely marketed outside of Mexico, but it’s growing as new products enter the market.”

between mezcal and tequila, Ravandi recommends conducting a comparative tasting across a range of unaged and aged tequila and mezcal styles. “Using an analogy to wine is helpful,” he suggests. “Different varieties of agave different grape varieties produce very different wines. By learning to taste those differences, bartenders can create cocktails that showcase the spirit, and in turn educate their customers.” n

“Mezcal veers to the left with rusticity, bolder flavors and bigger, broader flavor profiles.” – Jay Schroeder, Mezcaleria Las Flores SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 89


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arshia Townsend


That’s pretty much John McCarthy’s approach to his cocktail menus, particularly when it’s a spirit-focused concept. Thus far in his career, he’s run a gin bar, scotch bar and now he’s heading the agave spirits program at Masa y Agave in the trendy TriBeca neighborhood of New York City. The approach at each establishment is pretty much the same, as far as he is concerned: Each drink on the cocktail menu has a specific slot. “And that slot fits a certain flavor profile that a certain type of person is going to want,” he explains. For example, his first slot is always filled with an aperitif, lower in alcohol content for that person who’s going to come in and doesn’t quite know what he wants, but wants to be part of the social interaction of drinking at a bar with everybody.

There’s a definitive art to crafting a cocktail menu. It’s similar to how a music producer sits down and decides which songs are going to make the cut for a studio album. He or she weeds out the weaker links and makes certain that each song flows effortlessly into the next one. And if the producer is really working on giving the fans a thrill, he or she starts off on a smooth, silky note and ends the entire project with a bang…something that they’ll remember for a long time to come.

“Those drinks tend to use club soda or sparkling wine to make an easy drink for someone,” adds McCarthy. On the other spectrum, he says, you need to make sure you have a slot for that person who wants a “strong, spirit-forward drink that’s going to shake them up a little bit and make them feel like they’re drinking.” Additional important slots, he continues, are for people who desire something bitter, such as a Negroni, as well as something that will be citrusy and herbaceous. He applies this method to restaurant bars and stand-alone cocktail lounges, but, of course, there’s so much more involved beyond the creation of the actual menu. There is the very important task of deciding how much each cocktail should cost, and McCarthy has his method down to a science. “I literally break it down,” he explains. “A case of lemons costs this much and I get that much juice out of it. I put half an ounce of lemon juice (in a cocktail), so then that costs .30 cents or whatever. I break down

how much an ounce of spirits costs, I break it down if it has a lemon peel twist, how many lemon twists I can get out of a case of lemons. I get it down to how much the sugar costs to make the simple syrup (from scratch), how much was the mint, if it contains a mint garnish. I break down every ingredient by price. And then I know what my costs are.” What he’s also learned through experience is that whatever cocktail he’s selling the most of is the least expensive drink for him to make. “If the drink that I am always making all the time is costing me a dollar, then I can afford to make a drink that costs $2.80 because I am offsetting it. I am still keeping my overall liquor costs low because I am selling a lot of the less expensive cocktail.” For Caroline Galzin, a managing partner of Nashville-based Nicky’s Coal Fired with husband/chef Tony Galzin, the most important place to start when crafting a cocktail menu is on the opposite side of the bar. It’s an opportunity to figure out who the audience will be, but she cautions not to alienate anyone. “I think it’s very important to have cocktails that will appeal to more than just one demographic,” she advises. “People don’t always want to try something new, but then there are those who do. I believe people should have both options.” For those introducing a craft cocktail menu for the very first time, she recommends tweaking classics such as an Old Fashioned or Moscow Mule. “Make some substitutions, such as changing a vermouth for amaro,” she suggests. “A lot of places are now doing Rum Old Fashioneds or changing up the Moscow Mule by replacing vodka with gin or tequila. They’re not reinventing the wheel, they’re taking what’s already great and putting their own spin on it.” n

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Lighten

Up It’s Summer (Beer) Time!

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t’s time to raise a glass to summer and hopefully your beer program reflects the change in the season. As temperatures rise, so does the desire to drink something crisp and refreshing, and that’s where summer beers come into play.

Does your beer list reflect the change in seasons? By Ari Bendersky

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During winter, your guests are usually looking for something rich, dark and hoppy. Those types of beers, like stouts, porters and IPAs, are perfect for cold winter evenings and heartier fare like roasts and stews. But summer? Lighten things up. “Most people want to drink lighter, easy-drinking beers in the summer when it’s warm,” said Chris Quinn, owner of boutique beer shop the Beer Temple in Chicago. “They want a refreshing beer they can drink in moderation.” In summer, your menu likely starts to showcase more seasonal ingredients, more produce and lighter fare. You’ll want to pair those with hefeweizens, Belgian wits, saisons, sour beers, radlers and other similar lighter style beers that fit with the food you’re serving. “Many people forget their role when it comes to designing the beer menu,” said Gary Valentine, director of beer for chef Stephanie Izard’s restaurants, including Girl & The Goat, Little Goat and Duck Duck Goat. “My job is to design a beer menu that pairs as much across the board with a food menu that rotates often. Everything won’t necessarily pair perfectly, but they won’t take away from the food. Beer is made to heighten the experience.” Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier, a lowalcohol, slightly effervescent light and bright German wheat beer with some fruity and spice notes, for example, pairs well with salads and seafood, Quinn said. He added that a saison, or farmhouse ale, called De Glazen Toren Saison d’Erpe-Mere from Belgium is effervescent and light on the palate

with low bitterness and nice spicy, fruity yeast characteristics. It pairs well with grilled or roasted chicken, or something fattier like a burger. “All those bubbles will help cleanse your palate,” Quinn said. Offering seasonal summer beer is a good way to help showcase offerings from local breweries. At Farmhaus Restaurant in St. Louis, wine and beverage director Myles Cameron taps into a variety of local Missouri breweries like Perennial Artisan Ales to support chef/owner Kevin Willmann’s seasonal menu.

summer menu. You can offer flights that highlight the new beers so people can try different beers over the course of their meal. Or you can have beer dinners to promote different styles and breweries, and your chef can create a menu that highlights the flavors of the beers and how they help round out the food. Everyone loves to get outside during summer and that means coming into your restaurant or bar to eat and drink. Why not offer them something special to help them celebrate the season? It’ll keep them coming back for more.

“In my mind, the best ways to promote summer beers are to showcase them with seasonal food offerings, which highlight the flavors and nuances of the season,” Cameron said. One of his favorite summer beers is one that Perennial brews specifically for Farmhaus: the Brew for the Crew. He said this Munich-style lager, which comes in a 750ml large-bottle format, “embodies summer” as it is light in weight, but full in flavor and great for sharing over a charcuterie plate. Not everyone is familiar with the variety of beers you can serve in the summer, so for that reason, it’s important to educate your staff. If you aren’t sure about all the styles yourself, partner with a local brewery, Valentine said. “Have them come in and train your staff, and talk to your guests,” he said. “If you have an outdoor space, you can have a cookout and have the brewery set up a tent with a tasting area.” And, you’ll want to let your guests know you have specific beers for your

“My job is to design a beer menu that pairs as much across the board with a food menu that rotates often. Everything won’t necessarily pair perfectly, but they won’t take away from the food.” – Gary Valentine 94 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016


Deciphering Different Summer Beer Styles You know lagers and pale ales, but how do you know what will work for summer? Gary Valentine from Chicago’s Girl & The Goat and the event director for the Illinois Craft Brewers Guild, explains.

Hefeweizen Has nice, light zest, a little frothy on the mouthfeel. It leaves you with a little clove and banana. It’s refreshing.

Belgian Wits This Belgian wheat ale is one of my favorite styles. They add orange peel and coriander.

Saison It’s a farmhouse ale, beers that are unique to the brewery. The yeast produces white pepper notes and breweries use locally sourced ingredients like honey or molasses.

Hybrid IPAs This is the newest thing you’ll start seeing in 2016. It’s when a brewery takes their base IPA, instead of making it hoppier for more flavor and aroma, breweries are starting to add fruit. We can use a pale ale yeast strain and add fruit to it. That’s the new frontier of beer we’ve seen about six months ago. Fruit is added post fermentation.

Radlers Is the radler a beer? It’s kind of like a shandy. It’s an old Germanic style that’s a 50/50 mix of beer and lemonade, which is delicious in itself. I think the Radler is the original summer beer.

Shandy It’s a beer mixed with a soft drink. There’s the real foundational difference between this and a radler. It’s carbonated through the beverage. Oftentimes it’s lemonade.

Berliner Weiss It’s kind of a hydrid of a sour beer and a Belgian Wit. They kettle sour the beer and add lactic acid during fermentation that gives it a lactic taste.

Sour beers The addition of wild yeast makes it sour. You have three types of yeast: lager, ale and wild. These are more sour or tart. EX: Lambics. With these, they’re all made differently. n

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iversity and bounty. That’s how Chef Dave Woolley sums up produce’s finest season, happening now at a farm near you. “There’s so much more available now, including items that didn’t grow in this country even 20 years ago,” says Woolley, who believes so strongly in the promise of produce that three years ago he moved from the fine dining world to representing fruit and vegetable commissions. A fan of the underutilized and the affordable, he recommends looking beyond the admittedly irresistible lure of summer classics like buttery sweet corn on the cob and juicy stone fruits to Chinese squash, fennel, avocados and Meyer lemons. Versatile players in the kitchen, they serve as distinct differentiators on the menu, and all are particularly appealing to advocates of the growing veg-centric movement.

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Yes, it’s more than a trend, it's a fullblown movement, assures Woolley, but hold up a minute. It’s not that protein has become persona non grata on the menu, it’s about veggies moving into the center of the plate, across all day parts and dining venues. “Fundamentally, it’s about eating better, healthier, and today’s diners are much more accepting of these ideas than ones previously associated with strict veganism,” says Woolley. By next year, he predicts, the veg-centric concept will be a menu mainstay, but in a broader, even somewhat stealthy sense, such as offering Brussels sprouts mixed liberally with bacon. Get started on your journey to the center of the produce plate this summer. While the season begins in May and keeps blooming through the end of September, by the time fireworks are exploding across the sky in July, the season is at its peak. The timing is all-important

because catching fruits at their ripest perfection makes a huge difference. “The taste is phenomenally better,” says Ben Randolph, chef de cuisine at Restaurant Eleven Eleven in Missouri’s Broadway Hotel. “Anyone who’s eaten a not-quite-ripe tomato knows what I mean! But in the summer, there’s nothing better than a caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil leaves, drizzled with olive oil.” Randolph’s other summertime faves are wonderfully eclectic – chipotle peach sauce atop a chicken flatbread, miso apple slaw on pulled pork, grilled peaches with a balsamic glaze, watermelon popping up in a traditional Greek salad, and an easy but spectacular tasting watermelon rind kimchi. (Recipe on next page)


Are you grilling me? As good as they are in their all-natural state, experts recommend giving summer produce the grill treatment. “A bit of olive oil and Italian seasoning, and those great grill marks elevate the whole vegetable experience with great flavor and a beautiful presentation,” says Kathy Means, Produce Marketing Association. Another welcome benefit: using a preponderance of produce decreases costs significantly, she says. Also finding a comfortable home on the coals – peaches, bananas (sliced in half with a little honey added), apples fresh from South America, sprinkled with

cinnamon, or de-pitted nectarines for a healthy ice cream garnish. Peel back the husk on an ear of sweet corn and add Old Bay spice, cut plentiful summer zucchini lengthwise into long strips, and add both to the grill. Change it up, urges Means, by summer-izing a fall classic, such as a summer hash, with cubed, grilled produce piled on top of grilled potatoes. You can press your wood-burning oven into service, and benefit from the caramelizing that occurs as a result. Smoking techniques work well too, as long as the produce is “treated with the same reverence as a brisket or pork shoulder,” says Woolley.

Looking for something more chill? Take a watery fruit like watermelon or cantaloupe and puree into a smoothie (or try spinach for an “extra oomph of nutrition,” says Means). Or take the

pureed fruit, freeze in an ice tray, and use the cubes to infuse incredible flavor into drinks.

Watermelon Rind Kimchi 1.5 lb watermelon rind

¼ C sugar

¼ C kosher salt

¾ C Sriracha sauce

Peel the rind from the melon leaving about a 1/4” of the red fruit still attached. Remove the green skin from the outer layer. Thinly slice rind into 1/8” thick strips. Combine salt and sugar and sprinkle mixture over rind slices, tossing occasionally to coat evenly. Store refrigerated overnight. Drain any accumulated liquid before tossing slices in Sriracha. Source: Chef Ben Randolph, Restaurant Eleven Eleven n

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Few professions are fraught with more stress than those associated with the foodservice industry. Luckily, most industry veterans are so enthusiastic about their profession that they are willing to take the bitter with the sweet, and know how to roll with any situation. They have learned that keeping one’s cool is critical. Each and every day, stressful situations are going to occur in a foodservice setting. Do these recurring nightmares sound familiar?

• A staff member doesn’t show up for the busy Saturday night shift. • A tray of glassware shatters on the floor. • Unruly children are causing a ruckus in the dining room. • Inebriated patrons are using coarse language. • An irate customer is loudly berating a server because their food is improperly prepared. • Someone has slipped and fallen on the icy sidewalk in front of your establishment. These are just a few examples of good old Murphy and his law, which can send shivers down the spine of even the most seasoned pro.

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Secrets to Winning the Stress Test Too much stress can affect people’s health, happiness and sense of wellbeing. Managing stress can be successfully accomplished by planning ahead and being prepared. Here are a few pointers: SET THE PROPER EXAMPLE FOR YOUR STAFF. Treat everyone with respect. Remember the horror stories of yesteryear, when some chefs behaved badly towards everyone around them? Kitchen road rage is no longer acceptable in our civilized culinary society. No one should have to face their workday with a queasy feeling of dread in the pit of their stomach. If a staff member requires behavior modification, perhaps an anger management program is in order. STRIKE A BALANCE. Everyone needs to lead a balanced life. Working hard is fine, as long as time is set aside for relaxation and play. Planning staff activities and outings can go a long way towards building camaraderie, improving morale and blowing off steam. KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON. Stress is contagious. Make a concerted effort not to pass it around. In times of stress, look for ways to take the high road to defuse the situation. Coach your staff, and enlist their ideas for ways to turn a negative occurrence into a win-win. For example, when a customer is unsatisfied, it is important to immediately de-escalate the issue. Apologize to the patron and let them know what you will do to make it right. BANISH BURNOUT. Make a sincere commitment to alleviate staff burnout. It is up to management to provide a positive, safe, happy work environment. Smile at your staff frequently and praise them when they deserve it. Solicit staff suggestions for continuous improvement, and portray an approachable attitude so that your employees feel they can communicate freely. Ensure that you are properly staffed to ward off burnout, and allow ample opportunity to take a break when needed, and to take time off when necessary. ENLIST THE HELP OF PROFESSIONALS. Stress management is an ongoing issue in the foodservice industry, and it always will be. However, this monster can be tamed. If stress levels are impeding progress in your operation, take immediate steps to improve the problem. One of the most successful strategies is to enlist the help of professionals whose job it is to teach people how to conquer the stresses in their lives. Yoga is one of the most beneficial methods of relaxation. Tai Chi and other exercise programs are proven stress busters. Meditation/relaxation coaches help people learn to cope through deep breathing and other techniques. Lifestyle coaches show people how to achieve balance through organization and prioritization. One of the most important things to remember during stressful situations is to keep your sense of humor. A positive attitude will make a big difference in the eventual outcome, and demonstrate your maturity and command of the situation. Yes, stress is contagious, but so is a positive attitude. n

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 99


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GOING DIGITAL THE RIGHT WAY FOR YOUR RESTAURANT By Sophia Kramarz

Mobile, digital, online, web-friendly – they’re all important (and related) concepts for a restaurant owner or manager to understand, especially in how it relates to how you manage food costs, run your operation and market your business. But when it comes to your restaurant's digital strategy, it's always important to take a step back and determine what you're looking to accomplish before you jump the gun and invest in x, y or z platforms or apps. Here's a quick guide to what tools can help you achieve your specific digital goal.

Looking to make the reservation process easier for your guests? Try OpenTable, an online realtime restaurant-reservation service available nationwide.

Looking to get your menu optimized across the internet? Try OpenMenu, which provides a complete platform for restaurants to manage, display, promote and benefit from a well-connected online menu. Looking for a better way to manage your social media platforms? Try Hootsuite, an easy-to-use tool that allows you to manage and schedule posts for Facebook, Twitter, FourSquare, LinkedIn, Google+ Pages and other platforms.

Looking for to manage your inventory and order the products you need? Try TRACS Direct, a powerful suite of tools from Reinhart that allows restaurant operators to take full control of their operations and manage ordering, inventory and menu costs across multiple locations.

Looking to drive more traffic to your restaurant? Try a coupon on Restaurant.com, the nation’s largest digital marketing site for restaurants, dedicated to driving new diners to your restaurant. Looking to better understand your POS data? Try Upserve, which offers a simple way for restaurant owners to understand their guests and grow sales. With information from the payment network, point-of-sale systems, and social media, Upserve provides actionable insights, trend monitoring, and a better approach to payments. Looking for a better way to reward your customers via a loyalty program? Try AppSuite, a restaurant loyalty and reward app that targets guests and offers rewards based on their order history and behavior. Looking to open a second restaurant location? Try Restaurateur, which helps you develop an effective financial plan when looking to open an additional restaurant.

There are countless digital solutions available to today’s restaurant owners, but it’s important to remember that your objective is what matters most. First, figure out what you’re trying to accomplish and use that to help guide your search! Good luck! n

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 101


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Dressing For Success How FOH Uniforms Help Shape & Define the Brand by Audarshia Townsend

Chicago’s most glamorous new French restaurant relishes in a modern brasserie setting, Hôtel Costesesque soundtrack, and beautifully composed dishes and drinks. There’s a sharp contrast, however, when it comes to the uniforms on the front-of-house staff at The Blanchard. They’re wearing dark vests over crisp, skinny jeans with long, tapered aprons pulling together the look. Jeans at a fine-dining restaurant. Only a few years ago that attire would have been frowned upon in favor of suits and svelte little black dresses, but as more establishments relax dress codes for patrons as well as offer more shared-plate options, a more casually dressed staff is the next obvious trend.

Chicago’s The Blanchard

“The regimented restaurants with the regimented kitchens are going by the wayside,” observes Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold. “They’re becoming fewer and fewer. Everything is going in the casual direction.” The Pulitzer Prize winning journalist says he’s dined at more than 5,000 restaurants across the globe in his career—which was partially chronicled in the new documentary “City of Gold” by noted director Laura Gabbert. During his visits, he’s observed that aprons, which were once only worn by kitchen staff, are a big part of FOH uniforms.

102 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016


Chicago’s Monteverde

Kansas City's Port Fonda

“(Though they’re dressed more casual), you still want a crisp look,” says Gold. “Aprons are now at so many of the best restaurants in Los Angeles. And the idea that the servers are wearing them, as are the people doing the cooking, it now seems like more of a team.”

Port Fonda owner/executive chef Patrick Ryan best describes his FOH staff’s uniforms as “a uniquely Midwestern American look.” Though he’s reluctant to call what they wear “uniforms” at his Kansas City, Mo.based rustic Mexican restaurant, he says they can wear whatever they want as long as it’s from the Baldwin clothing brand.

Custom-designed aprons with Monteverde’s logo emblazoned upon them are part of the attire at the Italian-focused hot spot in Chicago’s West Loop. But for Monteverde co-partner Meg Sahs, the strong team culture is something they push daily; the uniforms are only a small part of it and staffers are encouraged to express their individuality. “We want our staffers to be themselves and let their personalities come through in what they wear at the restaurant,” says Sahs. “What we encourage them to do is just use their own personal style, but follow a few guidelines just to make sure that nothing is really glaringly off between their look and the restaurant’s look.”

“It allows our staff to have a cohesive look while being able to maintain their individuality,” Ryan explains. “Over time, the staff becomes a direct reflection of the business and I want them to be able to feel like they are a big part of what we do. By allowing them some freedom and creativity with the uniform it allows their personalities to become part of the overall restaurant identity.” Ryan believes that the attire of the FOH staff plays a significant role in shaping a restaurant’s image, yet many operators ignore its importance.

To match the restaurant’s muted, earth tones, FOH staffers wear dark-colored jeans or pants, nonslip shoes, neutral tops and the aprons. For Sahs, this cohesion is as important as the food matching the wine selections.

“I'll never understand why (an operator) would put so much time, energy and money into developing the look and feel of the restaurant, and then have the FOH staff wear the tired ol' black and whites. The guest experience with the service staff is the first and last chance to make a good impression.”

“Restaurant uniforms are hugely important because they set the tone in many ways for the guest because the servers, the staff and hosts are the first human interaction guests have in restaurants,” she explains. “We want Monteverde to be casual, to be comfortable, to be a place where people just want to hang out and try a bunch of different dishes and relax.”

Ryan says that larger-scale restaurants and chains should be the exception when enforcing a regimented uniform because it would get confusing if employees attempted to create their own looks. But for restaurants like Port Fonda, which on its busiest night has no more than 10 people working the front of house, it's relatively easy to maintain the standard. “It's definitely part of the overall look, feel and vibe of the place. If our staff was dressed up in ‘uniforms’ it would look ridiculous. I think we have the best possible situation.” n

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 103


R

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6

1

2

5 4

7

3


1

TACO SALAD

[SERVES 4] 12 oz cooked ground beef w/ taco seasoning 1C

Markon First Crop (MFC) Tomatoes, chopped

4

Ready-Set-Serve (RSS) Avocado Halves, chopped

1C

low-fat sour cream

½C part-skim Cheddar cheese, shredded 1C

RSS Romaine Ribbons

PREPARATION Layer equal amounts of cooked taco meat (or vegetarian alternative), tomatoes, avocados, sour cream, cheese, and lettuce in individual serving bowls. Serve with fried tortilla chips or house-made baked yucca chips.

2 STRAWBERRY SALSA 2C

[SERVES 4] Markon First Crop (MFC) Strawberries, diced

2

RSS Avocado Halves (cut in 8 slices)

4 leaves MFC Green Leaf Lettuce (cut into strips)

4 oz low fat Cheddar cheese, shredded

Salt and pepper to taste

1C

black beans, cooked

1

RSS Avocado Halves, cubed

½C

MFC Tomatoes, chopped

½C

MFC Red & Yellow Bell Peppers, roasted & chopped

Warm tortilla shells; place two on each plate. Divide chicken among tortillas. Top with diced tomatoes, green leaf strips, cilantro, and avocado. Garnish plate with two lime wedges.

¼C

corn

¼C

queso fresco, crumbled

¼C

RSS Washed & Trimmed Cilantro, chopped

Complement tacos with dipping sauces, rice, beans, guacamole, hominy, tomatillos, or cactus (nopales).

PREPARATION

PREPARATION Season chicken with salt and pepper; grill until cooked thoroughly. Cut into strips.

4

GUACAMOLE W/POMEGRANATE

4

RSS Avocado Halves

½C

pomegranate seeds RSS Lime Juice

¼C

MFC Red Onions, diced

2 tsp

ground cumin

¼C

Ready-Set-Serve (RSS) Washed & Trimmed Cilantro, chiffonade

Salt and pepper, to taste

¼C

RSS Lime Juice

PREPARATION Combine all ingredients; serve with vegetable or tortilla chips.

Salt and pepper, to taste

3 8

KID-FRIENDLY TACOS

[SERVES 4] whole wheat flour tortillas

2

chicken breasts

1/2 C

MFC Tomatoes (diced)

3 sprigs RSS Washed & Trimmed Cilantro (remove leaves & discard stems)

5 CHICKEN TACOS W/GREEN ONIONS & SALSA 8

Cover tortilla chips with beans and grated Cheddar; melt cheese under the broiler. Top with avocado, tomato, bell peppers, and corn. Crumble queso fresco over all and garnish with cilantro.

[SERVES 4]

¼C

Optional: serve as crostini with honey lavender cream cheese (as seen in photo).

[SERVES 2] corn tortilla chips

limes (cut into 8 wedges)

jalapeño peppers, minced

Combine strawberries, jalapeños, red onion, cilantro, and lime juice together in a small mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for at least three hours to infuse flavors.

4 oz

2

2

PREPARATION

BLACK BEAN NACHOS

6

[SERVES 4] corn tortillas, grilled

2 chicken breasts, grilled & sliced 8

RSS Washed & Trimmed Long Top Green Onions, grilled

8 oz

RSS Romaine Ribbons

½C

Chipotle salsa

BITE-SIZE EMPANADAS

7

[SERVES 4 (THREE EACH)] 1 sheet pastry dough, cut into 12/2-inch rounds 4 oz.

ground beef or meat-free alternative, cooked

½C

Butternut squash, peeled & cut into small squares

¼C

MFC Red and Yellow Bell Peppers, roasted & chopped

½C

corn

¼C

RSS Washed & Trimmed Cilantro, chopped

Salt and pepper, to taste

PREPARATION Mix beef, squash, peppers, corn, and cilantro in a bowl; season with salt and pepper. Fold each pastry round in half and place a small amount of filling in center. Seal and bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes (until browned).

PREPARATION Fill each tortilla with equal portion of sliced chicken, whole green onions, romaine, and salsa. Two per person.

SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 105


CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Future Events for Foodies Seafood Festival 2016 Davie, FL 7/9/16 – 7/10/16

The New York Coffee Festival New York City, NY 9/16/16 – 9/18/16

School Nutrition Association: Annual National Conference (ANC)

Truckeroo Food Truck Festival

Institute of Food Technologists

Louisiana Seafood Festival 2016

Chicago, IL 7/16/16 – 7/19/16

New Orleans, Louisiana 9/2/16 – 9/4/16

PMA Foodservice Conference & Expo

National Buffalo Chicken Wing Festival

Monterey, CA 7/29/16 – 7/31/16

Buffalo, New York 9/3/16 – 9/4/16

7th Annual Milwaukee Brew Fest

Kentucky Bourbon Festival

San Antonio, TX 7/10/16 – 7/13/16

Milwaukee, WI 7/30/16

Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Festival Virginia Beach, VA 8/20/16

Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo Los Angeles Convention Center 8/28/16 – 8/30/16

106 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016

Washington D.C. 8/19/16

Bardstown, Kentucky 9/13/16 – 9/18/16


A D V E R T I S E R

TRACS® Direct

Texas Pete® - TW Garner®

CSM Bakery Solutions

Markon®

McCain®

John Morrell

Bay Valley®

Unilever®

Good Roots™

Tyson® FoodService

Sugar Foods Corp

Eagle Ridge®

KronosBroil

Lamb Weston

Manage My Restaurant

www.tracsdirect.com [pg. 03]

www.texaspetefoodservice.com [pg. 62]

www.markon.com [pg. 04]

www.mccainideafeed.com/pairformore [pg. 69]

www.bayvalleyculinary.com [pg. 07]

www.ufs.com/BurgerRoute [pg. 75]

www.tysonfoodservice.com [pg. 27]

www.sugarfoods.com [pg. 84]

www.kronosfoodsinc.com [pg. 52]

I N D E X

www.csmbakerysolutions.com [pg. 100] www.johnmorrell.com [pg. 107] www.rfsdelivers.com [pg. 109] www.rfsdelivers.com [pg. IBC] www.rfsdelivers.com [pg. BC]

www.lambweston.com [pg. 92]

Advertising Information: For rates and media kit, contact Andrea Wilson andreaw@newhallklein.com. When contacting our advertisers, please mention you saw their ads here. ©2015 Reinhart Foodservice, L.L.C. All rights reserved. The trademarks depicted herein are trademarks (registered or otherwise) of their respective owners.

COBBLESTREET MARKET FULLY COOKED BBQ

RFS CODES

UPC

39822 39228 12544 12468

22486-16928 22486-16929 22486-16930 22486-16931

DESCRIPTION

Cobblestreet Market Pulled Pork BBQ With Sauce Cobblestreet Market Pulled Pork No Sauce Cobblestreet Market Sliced Beef Brisket Cobblestreet Market Carnita Meat

PACK SIZE

2/5 lb. 2/5 lb. 2/6 lb. average 2/5 lb. average


F A L L

S N E A K

P E E K

GREAT STEAKHOUSES ACROSS REINHART COUNTRY

T

his fall, we’re harnessing our inner carnivore and embarking on a meaty journey across some of our favorite steakhouses customers in Reinhart country. Some are legendary and historic establishments; others are newer and boast a delicious prime rib. We also find a few unique white tablecloth joints within a small town environment. Each restaurant serves upscale food, maintains an irreplaceable environment and high-quality dishes that tempt even the pickiest of eaters - and that includes our vegetarian friends! Enjoy a taste of what you’ll find in our next issue. If you’d like to contribute or be considered for content in the Fall issue or subsequent issues, email Team Reinhart at corporatecommunications@rfsdelivers.com.

THE PLACES LISTED ARE JUST A FEW WE HAVE OUR EYES ON FOR THE FALL ISSUE:

Frank's Steak House

W. Rick's Taproom & Grill

Main Event Steakhouse

Frank’s Steak House was established in 1938 directly across the street from its current location on Mass Ave in Cambridge. Through hard work and a spotless reputation, owner Bill built the business back up to its “hey day” making the friendly staff and famous New York Sizzling Steak Platter legendary in Cambridge. Some of the recognitions Frank’s has achieved include several of Boston Magazine's “Best of Boston” awards, “Best Lounge” and “Best Neighborhood Restaurant.”

“The Dub,” as quite a few patrons call it, is a straightforward American restaurant specializing in prime rib, crab cakes, jalapeño stuffed shrimp, a variety of pasta dishes and various daily specials. The bar and restaurant provide two different atmospheres for customers, and the rooms are separated by the kitchen. The restaurant side is a relaxed atmosphere with a cozy feel.

The Main Event Steakhouse was established in 2005 by supper club veterans Jim and Tracie Buchinger. In 2012, long-time employee Matt Fronsee, along with his parents Ken and Cindy, purchased the business. The Fronsees continue the original vision of serving only the highest quality food at a reasonable price in an elegant, relaxing, and friendly atmosphere.

Cambridge, MA

To see more go to: frankssteakhouse.com

Butler, PA

To see more go to: wrickstaproom.com

Little Chute, WI

To see more go to: maineventsteakhouse.com

Shell & Bones

Little Chicago

The Twisted Tail

Shell and Bones occupies a space that has been a legendary restaurant location for decades. The focus is on seafood and steak utilizing fresh & sustainable ingredients. All soups, stocks, sauces and desserts are made in-house under the watchful eye of Chef Franco. His style reinterprets many classic recipes (oysters Rockefeller) while also creating new favorites (cod served chowder-style).

One of the Fox Valley’s newest dining experiences. Little Chicago Dining & Spirits is quickly becoming the favorite of many. The restaurant's relaxing atmosphere gives you the chance to enjoy great food and beverages with friends and family. The wellrounded dinner menu features the very best in steaks, seafood, pastas, chicken and much more. Along with our lighter side luncheon menu we are sure to have something to please everyone.

Cavernous saloon offering beers & smoked meats, with tractor pulls & other events in a casual space. Home of Luke's Famous Smoked Ribs! Don't miss out on Smoked Chicken Wednesdays, Taco/Fajita/ Enchilada and $3 Margarita Thursdays, Luke's Famous Rib Fridays and Prime Rib Saturdays!

New Haven, CT

To see more go to: shellandbones.com

108 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016

Kaukauna, WI

To see more go to: littlechicago.org

BeeBeeTown, IA

To see more go to: twistedtailbbtown.com


from

our farmers´ hands

to yours

Fresh produce is taking center stage

on menus across the country,

name to know. We work directly with the most reputable growers to bring you vibrant, versatile produce. Meeting stringent specifications for quality and food safety, from field to freshest delivery. The time is ripe for value and Good Roots is the

this fresh. Beginning with Good Roots.


O P E R A T O R

I N D E X

Aloha Poké Chicago, IL [pg. 79]

FireFin Poké Shop Chicago, IL firefinpoke.com [pg. 79]

Añejos Sartell, MN www.anejosrestaurant.com [pg. 16]

Girl & The Goat Chicago, IL girlandthegoat.com [pg. 94, 95]

Baja Beach Biloxi, MS bajabeachbiloxi.com [pg. 21]

Goa Taco New York, NY goataco.com [pg. 67]

The Blanchard Chicago, IL theblanchardchicago.com [pg. 102]

Jalapeños Brookside Kansas City, MO jalapenosbrookside.com [pg. 20]

Chico's Greenville, NC chicosrestaurant.com [pg. 23]

Kogi Taqueria Los Angeles, CA kogibbq.com/taqueria [pg. 67]

Courier Café Urbana, IL couriercafe.squarespace.com [pg. 59]

La Fuente Multiple Milwaukee Locations ilovelafuente.com [pg. 18]

Dos Urban Cantina Chicago, IL dosurbancantina.com [pg. 65]

La Hacienda Taqueria Nashville, TN lahanashville.com [pg. 19]

Duck Duck Goat Chicago, IL duckduckgoatchicago.com [pg. 94]

Las Perlas Los Angeles, CA 213dthospitality.com/project/las-perlas [pg. 89]

Eastman Egg Company Chicago, IL eastmanegg.com [pg. 71]

Little Goat Chicago, IL littlegoatchicago.com [pg. 94]

El Fogón Taco & Tequila Bar Oak Creek, WI [pg. 22]

Los Barrios Several San Antonio Locations losbarrios1.com [pg. 54]

Farmhaus Restaurant St. Louis, MO farmhausrestaurant.com [pg. 94]

Los Chingones Denver, CO loschingonesmexican.com [pg. 71]

110 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016


Masa y Agave New York, NY rosamexicano.com/masayagave [pg. 86, 87, 89, 91]

Rey Azteca Butler, PA reyaztecamex.com [pg. 17]

Matt’s El Rancho Austin, TX mattselrancho.com [pg. 54, 55, 67]

Rosewood San Miguel de Allende San Miguel de Allende, Mexico rosewoodhotels.com [pg. 71]

Mexican Village Restaurant St Cloud, MN mexicanvillagestcloud.com [pg. 12]

Slightly North of Broad Charleston, SC snobcharleston.com [pg. 64]

Mezcaleria Las Flore Chicago, IL mezcalerialasflores.com [pg. 86, 89]

Soho House Chicago Chicago, IL sohohousechicago.com [pg. 65]

Monteverde Chicago, IL monteverdechicago.com [pg. 103]

Solea Mexican Grill Multiple Wisconsin Locations soleamexicangrill.com [pg. 16]

Nicky’s Coal Fired Nashville, TN nickysnashville.com [pg. 87, 91]

Spartina Los Angeles, CA spartina.la [pg. 64]

The Patron Mechanicsville, VA thepatronrestaurant.com [pg. 14]

Sweetcatch Poké Coming Soon sweetcatchpoke.com [pg. 78]

Pokéworks New York, NY pokeworks.com [pg. 79]

Tacodeli Multiple Texas Locations tacodeli.com [pg. 68]

Port Fonda Kansas City, MO portfonda.com [pg. 103]

Velvet Cactus Multiple Louisiana Locations thevelvetcactus.com [pg. 13]

Restaurant Eleven Eleven Columbia, MO doubletree3.hilton.com [pg. 96] Revolutionario Los Angeles, CA revolutionario.com [pg. 68] SUMMER 2016 RFSDELIVERS.COM 111


C O M M O D I T I E S

COMMODITIES TRACKING

LIVESTOCK

SOFTS

GRAINS

Keep your ear to the ground with commodity pricing, as it dictates food costs. Below are select prices to help readers keep track. Prices as of May 27, 2016.*

description

units price contract

CBOT Corn

USd/bu.

412.75

Jul 16

CBOT Wheat

USd/bu.

481.50

Jul 16

CBOT Oats

USd/bu.

193.00

Jul 16

CBOT Rough Rice

USd/cwt.

10.77

Jul 16

CBOT Soybean

USd/bu.

1,086.50

Jul 16

CBOT Soybean Meal

USd/T.

402.60

Jul 16

CBOT Soybean Oil

USd/lb.

31.48

Jul 16

description

units price contract

ICE Cocoa

USd/MT

3,005.00

Jul 16

ICE Coffee "C"

USd/lb.

121.30

Jul 16

ICE Sugar #11

USd/lb.

17.52

Jul 16

ICE Orange Juice

USd/lb.

146.50

Jul 16

ICE Cotton #2

USd/lb.

64.28

Jul 16

description

units price contract

CME Live Cattle

USd/lb.

116.43

Aug 16

CME Feeder Cattle

USd/lb.

146.70

Aug 16

CME Lean Hogs

USd/lb.

81.08

Aug 16

*SOURCE: Bloomberg.com

Is there a commodity you’d like to see on the chart? Email magazine@rfsdelivers.com with your suggestion.

112 RFSDELIVERS.COM ISSUE 3, 2016


Desire ALL YOU DESIRE AT THE CENTER OF THE PLATE. Contact your local Reinhart Sales Consultant today or visit rfsdelivers.com. ©2016 Reinhart Foodservice L.L.C. • Eagle Ridge® Brand is a trademark licensed by Reinhart Foodservice L.L.C.

RI_Cover_Issue3_2016_v2.indd 3

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Reinhart Presents

TOOLS FOR SUCCESS

market your business

improve operations

manage food costs

update your menu

use credit card systems

REINHART IS 100% COMMITTED TO YOUR SUCCESS! Our restaurant industry is changing and it’s more important than ever to focus on how you can stay relevant now and in the future. As your distributor, Reinhart is always focused on helping you win!

RI_Cover_Issue3_2016_v2.indd 4

6/9/16 3:19 PM


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