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t aste philadelphia weeklyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining guide 2009

AD GLOSSARY

TASTE2009 FEATURES

30TH ST. STATION

16

LIBERTIES RESTAURANT & BAR

ABBAYE

15

MCFADDEN’S

19

ART INSTITUTE OF PHILA.

21

MANGOMOON

5

BEBE BBQ

13

MISCONDUCT TAVERN

13

BELGIAN CAFE

17

MONK’S CAFE

17

NOVI

18

6 Proof Positive

CAFE FULYA

20

Exploring the sudden growth of Philadelphia’s bespoke cocktail culture.

CAFE SPICE

11

CENTER CITY PRETZEL COMPANY

9

CHABAA THAI BISTRO

5

10 It Takes a Village

COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS

7

Garces’ newest venture digs into American roots.

CONSTELLATION BRANDS

3

By DAN ELDRIDGE

By TARA MURTHA

CREAM & SUGAR

18

DIVAN TURKISH RESTAURANT

18 Mac & Cheese Made Over Philadelphia’s comfort food scene continues to reimagine our favorite feel-good dishes.

By Carrie Ann

ELEPHANT & CASTLE

12

GOOD DOG

11

HAPPY ROOSTER

12

JEREMIAH WEED

BACK COVER

JIM BEAM JNA CULINARY INSTITUTE KIBITZ ROOM LASER COSMETICS

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philadelphia weekly’s dining guide 2009

20

www.philadelphiaweekly.com

7 10 8 23

9

PENN DISTRIBUTORS

6

PHILLY SOFT PRETZEL

13

PINOT

9

PRIVE

9

RESTAURANT SCHOOL

16

REVOLUTION POS

10

SNOCKEY’S OYSTER HOUSE

8

TASTEE D’S

18

TIR NA NOG

14

TWIN SHOPPE

18

VICTORY BREWING CO

2

WINEO

16

WORLD CAFE LIVE

11

ZENTO

7

COVER PHOTO by Michael Persico; CONTENTS PHOTO BY michael Persico

CONTENTS

www.philadelphiaweekly.com

t aste philadelphia weeklyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining guide 2009

PROOF POSITIVE Exploring the sudden growth of Philadelphiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bespoke cocktail culture.

By Dan Eldridge â&#x20AC;˘ Photographs by Michael Persico

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Philadelphia Weekly Ad 3.687x10:Layout 1

9/21/2009

CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE CUISINE

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– Craig LaBan

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Not valid on Friday or Saturday.

138 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia | 215.925.9998 | www.zentocontemporary.com DINNER: Sun - Thurs 5:00pm to 10:00pm. Friday 5:00pm to 11:00pm. Sat 12pm to 11pm (dinner menu only)

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PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2009

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1521 Locust Street, Philadelphia, PA www.kibitzroomphila.com 215.735.7305

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PHILADELPHIA WEEKLYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DINING GUIDE 2009

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three 50â&#x20AC;? plasmas with surround sound making it a great place to watch the game

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PHILADELPHIA WEEKLYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DINING GUIDE 2009

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MAC & CHEESE MADE OVER

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By Carrie Ann â&#x20AC;˘ Photograph by Michael Persico

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cores of food writers and bloggers throughout the country began discussing the concept of comfort food as a trend after 9/11, and even more so after the start of the current economic recession. Many of Philadelphiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chefs and restaurants have managed to keep themselves ahead of the curve by offering straightforward preparations with a emphasis on locally produced, high-quality ingredients.

After all, as most locals will readily admit, Philly has always had a rich tradition of wholesome, honest foods.

In fact, an impressive number of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular eateries were serving up their own reimagined comfort foods before anyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including food journalists, renowned chefs, or envelope-pushing restaurateursâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;even considered referring to the fareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s renewed popularity as an actual trend.

A handful of casually chic diners ease into mint green, high-backed bar stools early Friday evening at Jonesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Stephen Starrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popular comfort food restaurant and lounge in Washington Squareâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and quickly reach for drink menus. Several servers and staff members effortlessly whisk back and forth from the hostess station, checking tables and reservations for the night ahead. The retromodern decor plays its own role in the evening as the

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The original owners are back!

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PHILADELPHIA WEEKLY’S DINING GUIDE 2009

sunken dining room, stone pillars, shag carpets, and night-light lit booths combine to provide the ample space with a decidedly cozy feel. Though it’s barely 6 p.m., nearly all of the tables in both the dining area and mezzanine balcony are already full.

As the pace at the restaurant momentarily slows, hostess Evelyn King and server Drew Bucklin take a moment to discuss the specials for the night, and soon begin a dialog about the most popular item on the restaurant’s menu: the baked macaroni and cheese appetizer.

“At least half of the tables get the mac and cheese,” King says. Bucklin nods in agreement before rattling off other variations of this classic comfort food now appearing on the menus at several Starr eateries. While Bucklin’s favorite interpretation of the dish is the version served at Jones, he also notes the finer points of the lobster mac and cheese prepared at both the Continental Mid-town and The Continental; the truffle mac and cheese at Barclay Prime; and even the jalapeño breadcrumb crusted mac and cheese at El Camino Real, a non-Starr Tex-Mex restaurant in Northern Liberties.

Philadelphia-area foodies and other restaurant-goers are practically guaranteed to find their favorite mac and cheese variation somewhere, regardless of their personal tastes or budgets. Center City’s Good Dog, for instance, offers a cornflake crusted, three-cheese and béchamel sauce baked entrée served with blueberry cornbread ($13), while the many Marathon Grill locations serve up a classic cheddar cheese, bacon, tomato and caramelized onion dish known as the Marathon Mac and Cheese ($10.95). And there are a bevy of both imaginative and more traditional side- and small-dish interpretations at restaurants such as Parc, where macaroni gratin ($9) is on offer, Honey’s Sit ‘n’ Eat, with its standard but still toothsome homemade macaroni and cheese ($3) and Liberties Restaurant & Bar with its tomato and herbed bread crumb version ($7).

It’s clear that Philadelphia’s restaurateurs are capitalizing on the steadily growing popularity of reimagined comfort food fare. In addition to macaroni and cheese, American classics like meatloaf, pot pies, pierogies, BLTs, fried chicken, and even green bean casseroles have become staples in restaurants citywide—and at price points as varied as the reinterpreted recipes themselves.

“What’s been most interesting about the comfort food trend,” explains Arthur Etchells, editor of the Philly food and drink blog foobooz.com, “is the variety and popularity of comfort foods at traditionally upscale restaurants.” A local restaurant scene expert whose favorite comfort food is the chicken pot pie at Standard Tap, Etchells explains that as restaurant-goers have became significantly more budget-conscious in recent years, upscale restaurants have been forced to drastically cut their prices and expenses. Many restaurateurs have discovered the inspiration to do just that by studying the city’s much-loved gastropub scene.

“Gastropubs have always offered comfort food fare,” says Etchells. “And it was a natural progression that other restaurants would [eventually] be influenced by their success.”

As economic conditions slowly improve, Etchells predicts we’ll see chefs beginning to get even more experimental with comfort food recipes. He also says we’ll soon see restaurateurs looking for “creative ways to push the price point of these items up a dollar or two.” And if the city’s latestrumored restaurant openings are any indication, Philadelphia diners can expect macaroni and cheese—along with other comfort food staples—to become a mainstay on many of their soon-to-be-favorite menus as well.

Consider, for example, the stylish restaurant and lounge that will soon be joining the University City dining scene, MidAtlantic: In addition to a regular menu and daily specials, proprietor Daniel Stern plans to offer his own take on a different comfort food each day of the week. Stern’s planned offerings include a Saturday roast, meatloaf and gravy on Mondays, a hot dog night on Wednesdays and corned beef and cabbage on Thursdays.

As Philadelphia continues to establish itself as a national, and even international dining destination, comfort foods are undeniably becoming a defining staple in the city’s culinary style. Q

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