Balat Guide by Rework Agency

guide by cooklife 2015/2016

hello! WHY WE DID THIS? We wanted to tell you the story of Balat, a place that holds many different cultures all together; by experiencing it one more time with its historical heritage, eat & drink habits, style and exciting designs that fit right in the lifestyle taste of Cooklife lovers.

contributors& special thanks - KarGIN ART DIRECTOR: TugçE

Editor: AtES. Uysal, Sinem Uysal

STORY TELLER: Sinan Sülün

. . ISMAIL DAGLI, Emre Karaca &. Ersin Kalkan, IRFAN PULCU

Idea & concept development: REWORK WWW.REWORKAGENCY.COM

walk, walk, feel,feel, wa colored colored life

hatch & enjoy & enjoy fe n here! in here!

Balat

cooklife balat

agora tavern 1890

phanar greek orthodox collage

iron (greek) vodina church street

Love p h a n a r g r e ek ragâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;nroll vintage

patriarchate ahrida forno

synagogue

kulak coffee atelier

department

Balat Balat

“Cobbleeer, cobbleeer is here!” “Cobbleeer, cobbleeer is here!” A cobbler shouts to windowsAofcobbler housesshouts with to windows of houses Street with narrowwith walkways,Street stairs with that make narrow walkways oriels. He collects the old commodities, oriels. He collects the old youcommodities, feel like climbing to infinity, yougreat feel like climbing to infin memories and past of Istanbul. memories Meanwhile, and past of buildings Istanbul. Meanwhile, at the end of uphillbuildings roads, tallat the end of uphill children play hopscotch on the children squares, play they hopscotch on the they squares, together, give they you the feeling together, of a they give you the fe drew with chalk. Two women, drew hangs with their chalk. Two women, hangs their black-white photograph coming black-white to life. Asphotograph a com laundry they just washed, onlaundry the ropes they just washed, on the ropes live historical place, Balat is between live historical Phanar place, Balat is b between their windows. A small between windtheir wavewindows. A Ayvansaray, small wind wave and on the southern and side Ayvansaray, of Haliç.on the south these soap smelling laundries. these Thesoap smellsmelling laundries. smell Its name The comes from The Blaherna Its name Palace, comes from The Bla reaches the young girl combing reaches her hair, the young in girlwhich combing her hair, is really closeinto Balat. which Therefore, is really the close to Balat. front of a wooden window. Her front eyes of on a wooden the window. on the wordHer Balateyes evolved from the Word word “Palation”, Balat evolved from the road, waiting for her lover. While road,the waiting evening for her lover. While the evening which means “Palace”. which means “Palace”. sun cover the street with peace, sunfathers cover the are street with peace, fathersgoing are all the way With its history Withuntil its history The going all the coming back from work to their coming homes, back with from work to their homes, Byzantine Empire,with Balat is theByzantine map of a Empire, Balat is th vegetables and fruits in the bags. vegetables Few tourists and fruits in the bags. Few tourists cultural journey from Byzantines cultural to today. journey It from Byzant are wandering around the dusty are wandering pages of aroundwas the adusty pages of Jewish neighbourhood was untilarecently, Jewish neighbourhood history, with cameras on theirhistory, hands with whilecameras on their hands while people because because of the Jewish coming from of the Jewish people the food smells slightly go out the from foodkitchens. smells slightly go out from Spain and Thekitchens. Jewish peopleSpain of Georgia and The Jewish people Beautiful houses, churches, mosques Beautifuland houses, churches, mosques and settling in the area. settling in the area. cats, they all become a part ofcats, onethey photo allshot. become aThe partJews of one photo shot. of Sefardim who ranThe from Jews The of Sefardim who ra This is Balat, The Pearl of Golden This is horn, Balat, The PearlInquisition of Goldenand horn, came to The Ottoman Inquisition Empire and came to The where the time flows in a different whereway, the time flows in different way,of Beyazid II,byalso byathe invitation thelived invitation in of Beyazid I where the future and the pastwhere embrace the future each and the past embrace Balat. But with theeach birth of theBalat. stateBut of Israel with the birth of th other. . other. . and rising taxes, made the Balat andJews rising migrate taxes, made the Ba to Israel. And the rest of themtomoved Israel.to And other the rest of them locations, so there isn’t much locations, Jewish people so there in isn’t much Balat today. Balat today.

Jewish architecture But can the great be Jewish architecture Being one ofcan thebe oldest neighbourhoods Being one ofinthe oldest neighbourhoods in ntral sides of Balat. noticed Theseinthree central sides whole of Balat. Istanbul, TheseBalat threehas been whole declared Istanbul, as Balat has been declared as form Balat’s history floorwith houses theirform Balat’s cultural history heritage with their with Phanar,cultural in 1988,heritage by with Phanar, in 1988, by sides with oriels.narrow When front you sides with UNESCO. oriels. When And with you being preserved UNESCO. andAnd with being preserved and h old Balat gate, you entercan through see theold Balat having gate,ayou religious can seecentre the like Phanar-Greek having a religious centre like Phanar-Greek gogue on the right, Yanbol and The Synagogue onPatriarchy, the right, and Balat The is on its way Patriarchy, to become one Balatofis on its way to become one of gogue which wasAhrida built bySynagogue Jews which the most was built attractive by Jews places in the thecity. most attractive places in the city. Ohri town of Macedonia, coming from ahead. Ohri town of Macedonia, ahead. t only the home of Balat Jews. was Greeks, not only theWith home allofitsJews. ethnicity, Greeks, history and Withdiversity, all its ethnicity, history and diversity, nd Muslims, a lotArmenians of people was and Muslims, Balataislotthe of one people of the wasgreatestBalat pearls is the of Haliç, one of the greatest pearls of Haliç, s through centuries. Balat’s So, guests Avios throughwhich centuries. is named So, Avios as Golden horn which by European is named as Golden horn by European dox Church and Ferruh Strati Orthodox Kethüda Church people. and Ferruh Kethüda people. ümbül Lodge, which Mosque were&built Sümbül by Lodge, which were built by t lived in Balat inMuslims 16. century, thatare lived in Balat in 16. century, are red as ornamentsalso of Balat. considered Just a as ornaments of Balat. Just a of the mosque, you little canahead see the of the mosque, you can see the ganet Church, another Surp Hreşdeganet Orthodox Church, another Orthodox The Phanar-Greek church. Patriarchy And The Phanar-Greek Patriarchy Greek All-Boys School and Phanar-Greek escort All-Boys School escort ul buildings, with these all their beautiful buildings, with all their greatness.

fingerprints of Balat windows

It's fun to look through windows in Balat, since it's such a lovely place. But it's really fun to look "at" the windows too! Balat has its unique types of windows and this really adds to the authenticity of the environment. Arc-shaped, rectangular, small, big, wooden or marbleâ&#x20AC;Ś The windows in Balat come for every taste, in every colour.

flowerpots Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not going to be able to find a window board without a flowerpot in Balat, easily. You can see every kind of flowerpot decorating the balconies, the windows and the entrances of Balat locals.

flavors Balat really speaks to all 5 senses. You can see the history, hear the music, smell the flowers, feel the softness of Balat cats, and taste its great flavors. From Agora Tavern to Cooklife, you’ll have plenty of options for food & drink.

vintage taste

When you walk on the streets of Balat, it’s almost certain to run into a vintage store. The vintage taste of Balat has created its own fashion, and it’s quite easy to fall into this tempting style.

wooden unique doors

Like windows, Balat has its own taste at doors too. You’ll notice that almost every building has its own, wooden door. Children play in front of some of them, cats lie down in front of others. But one thing is in common in Balat doors, they are all unique!

PHANAR GREEK ORTHODOX COLLEGE PHANAR GREEK ORTHODOX COLLEGE IRON CHURCH IRON CHURCH COOKLIFE BALAT COOKLIFE BALAT PHANAR GREEK PATRIARCHATE PHANAR GREEK PATRIARCHATE AHRIDA SYNAGOGUE AHRIDA SYNAGOGUE COFFEE DEPARTMENT COFFEE DEPARTMENT AGORA TAVERN AGORA TAVERN KULAK ATELIER KULAK ATELIER RAG’NROLL VINTAGE RAG’NROLL VINTAGE FENER KOFTECISI FENER KOFTECISI FORNO FORNO

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phanar-greek orthodox college Do not finish your day in Balat, without discovering the oldest educational institution in all Istanbul! Though it’s really hard not to notice this 561 years old breathtaking building, thanks to its outstanding location, striking architecture and red bricks specially brought from Marseille, which explain the school’s local name; “Red College”. The Phanar-Greek Orthodox College teaches the children of Greek families in Istanbul and currently has 53 students enrolled. An architect who also graduated from the school designed today’s great structure. The college had a lot of Greek patriarch and despot on Ottoman Empire era as well. Phanar-Greek Orthodox College has a great role in Balat being a place which gives its guests the full experience of Ottoman exoticism. That’s why; you can locate it on our where-to-go map.

Address:�Sancaktar Road, No:36, Balat Phone: 0 (212) 521 2252

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church

“I’ll let you, if you can finish the construction within 3 months.” said Sultan Abdulaziz to the Bulgarians. In 1800’s, the Bulgarians in Istanbul wanted to build their own church, independent from Orthodox-Greek patriarchate. The Sultan was unwilling to upset The Patriarchate, so without a direct rejection, he granted the permission followed by an “impossible” condition. But the Bulgarians were tough to break. So they casted the iron in Wien, transported the main parts to İstanbul through Danube River and Black Sea and connected these parts here. The stuborness of Bulgarians gave Balat the first prefabricated construction in Turkey and the only Church made of iron, in the world. While looking delicate like a wedding cake, The Iron Church has survived many events. Including a big fire, which didn’t burn down the church but made it too hot to touch for 3 days, according to local rumours. With its 500 tones of iron, 6 giant bells, which were given as a gift from Russia, and a bell tower of 40 metres high, this astonishing building still lies on the seafront of Balat. And it still amazes people who is blessed enough to see it. Address: Mürselpaşa Street, Balat Phone: 0 (212) 521 11 21

cooklife balat You can enjoy The Cooklife Magazine atmosphere on Cooklife Balat, where we hope to be with the readers of the magazine, which comes out every three month with the concept of food, lifestyle & people. With artistic tastes created in our kitchen, and high quality coffee experience, you'll feel the same vibes as you read the magazine,

While you set up your laptop in front of the window, listening the music that changes from smooth to high-energetic in hours and finally looking into magazines on food and lifestyle that came from many different countries in our library, you'll find out that you can use Cooklife Balat as an enjoyable resting place after wandering in captivating streets of Balat.

Address:ďż˝Vodina Street, AkĂ§in Road, No:3/B, Balat Phone: 0 (212) 533 11 55

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We’ve selected, the “must-see places” to fulfill your Balat experience, for you.

AGORA AGORA TAVERN TAVERN

In old Greek cities, people gathered on areas called “Agora” discussing matters like government, politics and trading. Ho to name this word for a tavern! Because in today’s Istanbul, t pleasanton way to talk about government, politics and trading, In old Greek cities, people gathered areas called “Agora” for about these on taverns, along with Rakı. It’s said that the mo discussing matters like government, politics and trading. How accurate delicious “meze” of a tavern, is the with people to name this word for a tavern! Because in today’s Istanbul, the conversation most table. And the conversation continues uninterrupted for mo pleasant way to talk about government, politics and trading, is to talk years, Agora about these on taverns, along within Rakı. It’sTavern. said that the most

delicious “meze” of a tavern, is the conversation with people on the really uninterrupted need to stop onfor Agora and try unique flavo table. And the conversation You continues moreTavern than 125 you can never taste at another place in the World, like Mum years, in Agora Tavern. Akulçapa and Fish Pastrami, if you’re interested to become a tableTavern where Old You really need to stop on Agora and Ottoman try uniqueEmpire’s flavourstales that come to life. you can never taste at another place in the World, like Mumbar, Tavern, this is, Akulçapa and Fish Pastrami,“Agora if you’re interested to become a guest of a there lies the most table where Old Ottoman Empire’s tales come to life. marvelous and mad loves”

“Agora Tavern, this is, Zeki Müren – Agora Meyhanesi there lies the most marvelous and mad loves” Address: Mürselpaşa Street 185, Ayvansaray-Balat Phone: 0 (212) 631 21 36

Zeki Müren – Agora Meyhanesi (Open between 23:00-01:00 every night except Mondays, brunch service starts at 10:30 every Sunday) Address: Mürselpaşa Street 185, Ayvansaray-Balat Phone: 0 (212) 631 21 36 (Open between 23:00-01:00 every night except Mondays, brunch service starts at 10:30 every Sunday)

There’s so much to discover in Balat, you will need a coffee break for sure. Since you have already been in Cooklife and tasted our delicious coffee, maybe you can give it a try for a coffee roastery the place for it. The world’s There’s so much to discover experience. in Balat, youAnd willCoffee need aDepartment coffee breakisfor finest coffee beans are here, in this cute coffee shop. Coffee Departsure. Since you have already been in Cooklife and tasted our roasts androastery gets them ready for your taste. You can delicious coffee, maybe you ment can give it a these try forbeans a coffee also attend oneplace of thefor coffee taste activities, which are open to experience. And Coffee Department is the it. The world’s to coffee join. shop. Coffee Departfinest coffee beans are here, everyone in this cute

Coffee ee Department ment

ment roasts these beans and gets them ready for your taste. You can you’re a coffeewhich enthusiast, you’ll also attend one of the coffeeIftaste activities, are open to appreciate little info cards about the beans you’ve selected that they give you, along with your coffee. everyone to join. Ayvansaray Street, Çeşmesi Alley, No: 5/A, Balat If you’re a coffee enthusiast, Address: you’ll appreciate little infoKürkçü cards about Phone: (532) 441 along 66 63 with your coffee. the beans you’ve selected that they 0give you, Address: Ayvansaray Street, Kürkçü Çeşmesi Alley, No: 5/A, Balat Phone: 0 (532) 441 66 63

RAGN ROLL ROLL VINTAGE AGE

Balat is quite famous with its vintage, second hand and antique stores. You can easily let yourself go with winds of past, with a cuckoo clock, a painting, or desk of cards, that belongs a different time, a different Balat is quite famous with itsgeneration. vintage, second hand and antique stores. youwinds roam of in past, Balat,with you acan run into many of these stores, but one You can easily let yourself goAs with cuckoo clock, of them, TheaRag’n Rolltime, is especially famous with its “Change Chest”. a painting, or desk of cards, that belongs different a different The vintage store, in which you can find a handful of cool stuff like generation. shoes, dresses, sunglasses, umbrellas etc., opens a chest on every As you roam in Balat, you can run into many of these stores, but one Wednesday and Friday. You can pick up anything you like from this of them, The Rag’n Roll is especially famous with its “Change Chest”. chest, if find you are willingof tocool let one oflike your belongings go! The vintage store, in which you can a handful stuff The owner Yasemin people In need get something they shoes, dresses, sunglasses, umbrellas etc., opens İşcan, a chestlet onthe every no anything charge. you like from this Wednesday and Friday. You like can with pick up youofwant special reminder chest, if you are willing to letIfone youra belongings go! for your good times in Balat, Rag’n Roll and its Change Chest is the place to they go. The owner Yasemin İşcan, let the people In need get something like with no charge. Address: Yıldırım No:Balat, 31/A, Phanar-Balat If you want a special reminder for your good Street, times in Rag’n Roll Phone:to0go. (536) 782 29 15 and its Change Chest is the place

Address: Yıldırım Street, No: 31/A, Phanar-Balat Phone: 0 (536) 782 29 15

FORNO

Turkish cuisine is easily one of the largest in the world; “lah and“pide” take a great place in Turkish eating habits. So, it a lot of sense toin getthe something to eat for lunch, at a place th Turkish cuisine is easily one of the largest world; “lahmacun” splendid meals at Balat, you experience all the and“pide” take a great placethese in Turkish eating habits. So, where it just makes aspects offor being “Turkish.” a lot of sense to get something to eat lunch, at a place that serves Forno presents traditionalall Turkish meals, with a slight touc these splendid meals at Balat, where you experience the other aspects of being “Turkish.”modern elegance. The pides and lahmacuns are not as grea lahmacun & pide places. Youtouch can even Forno presents traditional Turkish meals, with a slight of try their special “veg pide”, you want to healthy withasyour food. But be warn modern elegance. The pides and if lahmacuns aregonot as greasy other meats thetheir risk!special “vegetable lahmacun & pide places. You can worth even try pide”, if you want to go healthy with your food. But be warned, the Even though Forno is famous with its lahmacun and pide, meats worth the risk! a taste of their pizzas, and large breakfast open buffet as we When hungryand during your day”, Forno is jus Even though Forno is famous withyou its get lahmacun pide, you“Balat can get the corner of Cooklife. a taste of their pizzas, and large breakfast open buffet as well. When you get hungry during your “Balat day”, Forno is just around the corner of Cooklife. Address: Kireçhane Road, No: 13, Balat Phone: 0 (545) 322 30 30 Address: Kireçhane Road, No: 13, Balat Phone: 0 (545) 322 30 30

Kulak Atelier is a ceramic atelier, located on Vodina Street. Zeynep Saraçoğlu says that she can’t even imagine working other than Balat. mission is;Its “making Kulak Atelier is a ceramic atelier, located on Her Vodina Street. owner,creative designs, Zeynep Saraçoğlu says thatpeople.” she can’t even imagine working in a place other than Balat. Her mission is; “making creative designs, for creative The products of Kulak Atelier are as solid as they are chic. S people.” like to immortalize your day in Balat, a strong porcelain fro Atelier may be the wayare to do it. While you look up their gal The products of Kulak Atelier are as solid as they chic. So, if you’d designs, you can chill out withfrom a cup of coffee, because Kul like to immortalize your day in Balat, a strong porcelain Kulak is also a coffee Atelier may be the way to do it. While youshop. look up their galvanizing Interesting, and relaxing…. Kulak Atelier really de designs, you can chill out with a cup ofcreative coffee, because Kulak Atelier the actual Balat spirit. is also a coffee shop. Interesting, creative and relaxing…. Kulak Atelier really deliver you the actual Balat spirit. Address: Vodina Street, No: 126/1, Fener-Balat

KULAK KULAK Atelier Atelier

Phone: 0 (532) 300 58 15 Address: Vodina Street, No: 126/1, Fener-Balat Phone: 0 (532) 300 58 15

Phanar-Greek -Greek Patriarchate archate

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The whole Istanbul is a big painting made by numerous brushes of different cultures and religions, over thousands of years. But when it to religious Balat reallyofstands on a different level. The whole Istanbul is a bigcomes painting made by diversity, numerous brushes Otherover thanthousands its synagogues, mosques, anditThe Iron Church, you can different cultures and religions, of years. But when see the seat on of spiritual leader comes to religious diversity,actually Balat really stands a different level.of millions of Eastern Georgeyou Church, Other than its synagogues,Orthodox mosques, people, and TheThe IronSt.Church, can with its other name, Phanar-Greek Patriarchate. actually see the seat of spiritual leader of millions of Eastern Orthodox people, The St. George Church, with its other name, Phanar-Greek Patriarchate.The Patriarchate is considered as the centre of all Orthodox Christianity for some people. The phrase “primus inter pares”, which means “firstasamong equals” is Orthodox used to define this historical institution’s place The Patriarchate is considered the centre of all Christianamong other Orthodox churches. ity for some people. The phrase “primus inter pares”, which means Church of historical St. Georgeinstitution’s has becomeplace The Primacy when Constanti“first among equals” is usedThe to define this nus The First moved the capital of The Roman Empire from Rome to among other Orthodox churches. Constantinople ThisConstantichurch can tell us its story with a The Church of St. George has become The (Istanbul). Primacy when great of aspect history of Istanbul. If you’re nus The First moved the capital The of Roman Empire from Rome to interested to hear the great story, pay Constantinople (Istanbul). “byzantine This churchside” can of tellthis us its story with a a visit to this holy place. great aspect of history of Istanbul. If you’re interested to hear the “byzantine side” of this great story, pay a visitAhmet to thisStreet, holy place. Address: Dr. Sadık Yavuz Sultan Selim Avenue, Balat

Phone: 0 (212) 535 54 16 Address: Dr. Sadık Ahmet Street, Yavuz Sultan Selim Avenue, Balat Phone: 0 (212) 535 54 16

Ahrida

While wandering streets of Balat, you can easily run into a historical synagogue. That’s because Balat was one of the most occupied areas Jewish in allrun Istanbul, until 17. Century. It’s said that Ahrida While wandering streets ofby Balat, youpeople can easily into a historical the right next toareas Ahrida, were named after synagogue. That’s because and BalatYanbol, was one ofsinagog the most occupied ancient Macedonian by Jewish people in all Istanbul, until 17. Century.cities. It’s said that Ahrida Historians assumewere that the construction of Ahrida took place in near and Yanbol, the sinagog right next to Ahrida, named after ancient Macedonian cities.1400’s. This majestic structure survived a great fire near 1600’s, and on Sultan Ahmed’s influence of Ottoman Historians assume that therestored construction of Ahrida tookwill, placeunder in near architecture. 1400’s. This majestic structure survived a great fire near 1600’s, and Hebrews, Sultans... With its history forged by different restored on Sultan Ahmed’sBalkans, will, under influence of Ottoman cultures, Ahrida Synagogue seems to fit right in İstanbul, a city architecture. formed byhistory embracement of different East and West through centuries, itself. Balkans, Hebrews, Sultans... With its forged by cultures, Ahrida Synagogue seems to fit right in İstanbul, a city formed by embracement ofAddress:�Kürkçü East and West through itself. Çeşmecenturies, Street,�Balat Phone: 0 (212) 523 47 29 Address:�Kürkçü Çeşme Street,�Balat Phone: 0 (212) 523 47 29

Synagogue

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